AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS
TANNING TRENDS • PB LONDON PREVIEW • COVE SPA INTERVIEW • NUTRITION RETREATS
FOREST FOCUS AQUA SANA LONGLEAT’S £6M MAKEOVER
February 2020
THE BIG REVEAL THE MAJOR LAUNCHES AT PB LONDON February 2020 | professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Regulars 13 News ASA challenges botox ads online; find out which city has the most vegan beauty salons
Contents
Feb
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27 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 28 Digital direction Getting to grips with Google Analytics 33 Out & about Behind the scenes at the industry’s biggest parties 39 Insider Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 47 Ward’s world Why mystery shopping is important for your business
Features
On the cover
49 Ask the experts How to be a better leader; the art of results-driven facials
59 Talking to… Vikee Patel The director of The Cove Spa shares her plans since acquiring the Lavender & Stone beauty salon business
66 Hotbed of innovation PB London is returning to ExCeL on March 29–30, with 800+ brands exhibiting their latest product and treatment launches. We reveal some of the big names attending
99 Hot topic Why beauty therapists and medics need to talk more 107 Nail notes Applying forms on extreme nail shapes 109 Operational advice How millennials have changed the hiring process 111 Treatment news Shared Beauty Secrets launches Sensory Retreats
77 Live and learn PB London’s education line-up revealed 81 Bring it on How to enter PB’s lash, nails and make-up competitions 87 WSWC 2020 Ultimate guide to this year’s World Spa & Wellness Convention
115 New products Medik8’s first lip balm arrives
96 Golden touch The latest professional tanning solutions to hit the market
120 Career Path Jelena Adahovska reveals how to make it as a treatment manager
104 Health kick How new kid on the block Glasshouse Retreat is reinventing weight-loss retreats
83 Into the forest How Aqua Sana Longleat Forest’s redesign brought the outside in and improved the customer journey for visitors at Center Parcs 90 Glow getters We give you the lowdown on this year’s hottest tanning trends and explain how to work them into your treatment menu, plus we cover the controversy surrounding tanning pills, nasal sprays and injections
Cover image: Primark
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Editor’s Comment
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Us Londoners are often accused of existing in a bubble, and if you saw the visual maps of how the country voted at the recent election, it’s easy to understand why. But political persuasions aside, there are some key differences in the behaviour of beauty consumers up and down the country that any service provider needs to know to plan their offer. While vegan salons are booming in London and the South West, for example, the trend has been slower to take off in Scotland and the North, reflecting differing priorities in these areas, as well as a potential gap in the market for future growth. Find out more on page 13. There are also some key regional differences when it comes to the amount of time clients are investing in their personal appearance (see page 15). And our feature this month on tanning trends also reveals variations. It may not come as a surprise that dark, dramatic formulations sell better in the North but did you know that the regional differences even extend to the paper pants clients choose while being sprayed? Find out how on page 90. In celebration of the regions, we’ve also been touring the UK this month to explore some exciting launches. Find out how local cave and woodland landscapes influenced the redesign of Wiltshire-based Aqua Sana Longleat Forest on page 83, and how a £7.5m investment brought Newcastle’s historic City Baths back to life, on page 16. Wherever you’re based, don’t miss our preview of Professional Beauty London 2020 (page 66), where the industry will come together, not only from across the UK but around the world too, to share launches, trends and ideas to help to grow your business, no matter its location.
Editor
@Pro_Beauty01
@Pro_Beauty
INSURANCE Get Professional Beauty Direct insurance cover from just £52.50 a year or £72.25 a year with your subscription. Professional Nails Direct starts at just £39.50. You can now book and manage your insurance online at professional beautydirect.co.uk or call the team on 0345 605 8670
SUBSCRIBE NEW: membership benefits when you subscribe. Gold Membership UK: £37; Europe: £59; outside Europe: £67.50 To receive your copy of Professional Beauty every month call 01371 851875 or visit hairandbeauty.escosubs.co.uk Silver Membership: £10 To view full issues on your desktop, tablet or smartphone, see hairandbeauty.escosubs.co.uk Published by Trades Exhibitions Ltd Editorial enquiries: 020 7351 0536 editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk Advertising enquiries: 020 7351 0536 The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.
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Subscriptions enquiries: 01371 851875 professionalbeauty@escosubs.co.uk Editor: Eve Oxberry eve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7378 Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley amanda@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9064 Content writer: Eleanor Vousden eleanor@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7362 Social media editor: Chris Halpin chris@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7368 Intern: Kieran Read kieran@professionalbeauty.co.uk Sales director: Steve James steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Peter Bishop peter@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7364 Jack Diamond jack@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4792
Zoheb Khan zoheb@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7364 Caroline Ruston caroline.r@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4798 Amanda Strange amanda.s@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4793 Sibel Suleyman sibel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4794 Nur Tanyeri nur@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4796 Classified and recruitment sales: Gabriel Lartey gabriel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7376 Publisher: Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4799 Design and production: ICD, imagecreativedesign.co.uk Printing: Walstead, walstead-uk.com
audited
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SPIRULINE BOOST 100%*
Detoxified, smoothed skin from the very first treatment
To ďŹ nd out more please contact us: E: enquiry@thalgo.co.uk T: 020 7512 0872 www.thalgo.co.uk Thalgo UK
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Let the sea empower your beauty *Clinical study conducted on 15 volunteers (women, aged 26-40, living in an urban area, all non-sensitive skin types, with signs of tiredness), having undergone a Spiruline Boost Smoothing Detoxifying Treatment. Self-assessment after 1 treatment (% of volunteers who agree and mostly agree with the claim).
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13 News
News ASA cracks down on beauty salons illegally advertising botox on social media
The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) is seriously cracking down on beauty and aesthetics businesses illegally promoting botulinum toxin injections on social media. Working with the Committees of Advertising Practice (CAP), alongside the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA), the watchdog issued an Enforcement Notice to more than 130,000 firms in the beauty industry on the rules around advertising botulinum toxin, which
comes into force on January 31. The ASA is using “monitoring technology” to find these problematic ads, flagging them to Facebook and Instagram for removal. The watchdog will be cracking down on paid-for ads, non-paid-for posts and influencer marketing, as well as promotional advertising such as “botox parties” or treatments as a competition prize. It is illegal to advertise prescriptiononly medicines, such as botox, to the public, even if the medicine
is administered by a registered medical professional. CAP and the ASA will refer non-compliant sellers to the MHRA, which has investigatory and enforcement powers. CAP is advising businesses to remove the following in their advertising: •R emove any direct reference to Botox or other botulinum toxins, including names such as “beautytox” or “beautox”. This includes in images and hashtags. • Don’t use alternatives such as “wrinkle-relaxing injections” as this still counts as promotion of a prescription-only medicine. •D on’t refer to treating medical conditions in a way that suggests you are promoting a prescriptiononly medicine, for example, “injections for excessive sweating”. • You can promote the service you provide and the consultation, such as “a consultation for the treatment of lines and wrinkles”, but you must be careful not to directly or indirectly advertise a prescription-only medicine.
London and South West have most vegan salons The South West of England has the most vegan beauty salons in the UK, according to new research by wholesaler of professional beauty supplies Salons Direct. There are 15 beauty salons in the area that offer vegan-friendly treatments and products. This is followed closely by London with 14. The South East and North West were joint third, with 11 each, followed by East Anglia and Wales, with six each. While the southern regions are currently dominating the vegan scene, the North West is quickly catching up and it is expected that
many more salons will be added to the directory in the coming year. Salons Direct has created an interactive vegan salon map which lists the businesses by location, providing details of treatments on offer. With veganism becoming more popular, the wholesaler believes this will become a valuable tool for clients to locate a salon that matches their ethos: “Now is the perfect time to highlight the amazing work many vegan beauty experts are doing to make changes that benefit both their business and the environment.” professionalbeauty.co.uk
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SALON READY WITH GELLUX 15ML & 8ML
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Scientists make breakthrough in treatment of contact dermatitis Researchers at Columbia University Irving Medical Center are investigating the prevention of contact dermatitis by applying competing lipids to the skin that displace those triggering the immune reaction. The itchy skin condition occurs when the immune system’s T cells recognise a chemical as foreign. However, the scientists have found that a chemical reaction with larger proteins needs to take place in order to be picked up by the T cells. The team believes that CD1a – a molecule found on Langerhans cells, residing on the basal and suprabasal layers of the epidermis – could be the catalyst for making foreign chemicals visible to T cells. According to the research, several common chemicals known to trigger
// The Spa at Carden officially opened on January 6, with a ribbon-cutting ceremony by Steve and Sally Morgan, owners of Carden Park Hotel, spa director Steve Ewing and general manager Hamish Ferguson. The 48,500sq ft spa has one of the UK’s largest spa gardens and an all-weather champagne bar.
allergic contact dermatitis were unable to bind to CD1a molecules, such as benxyl benxoate and benzyl cinnamate, found in Balsam of Peru and farnesol. “The research paves the way for follow-up studies to confirm the mechanism in allergic patients and design inhibitors of the response,” said assistant Professor Annemieke De Jong.
East of England spends most time on appearance, North East the least
Consumers in the East of England invest the most time in their appearance, at seven hours a week, according to research from bathroom equipment supplier showerstoyou.co.uk. An hour of this time is spent shaving and plucking hair, while 30 minutes is spent grooming nails each week.
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Additionally, 91% in this region also wear a perfume or cologne, scoring higher than any other region. In comparison, those in the North East spend the least amount of time grooming overall at just three hours per week, with just 13% of those living in the region shaving or trimming their body hair. Londoners invest most time in skincare, at 20 minutes per week, with 32% exfoliating and 21% moisturising regularly. Across the nation, nail care is the most neglected grooming practice, with just 19% of Brits looking after them regularly, spending an average of just six minutes per week.
// CACI won Best Treatment in the Daily Mail Inspire Anti-Ageing Awards 2019. Four influential women within the beauty industry, including Dr Sam Bunting and Ruby Hammer, were asked to shortlist their favourite brands, with more than 10,500 Daily Mail readers then voting for their winners from this list. // Titanic Spa has introduced cuddle therapy with its new life-sized teddy bear, Leo. The 7ft tall bear is available for free hugs to guests, which Titanic says will encourage the release of oxytocin, helping to extend the wellbeing benefits of the spa beyond the facilities and treatments. // Two multi-day packages have been launched at The Spa at Pennyhill Park. Lifestyle Reconnect is a “10-day journey of bonding experiences” for couples, incorporating a radiance facial and a private mud room experience, while Invest in You is a personalised 21-day programme priced from £1,400. // Skincare brand Pevonia has signed partnerships with a number of new spa accounts. Its treatments are now available in Hustyns Hotel & Spa in North Cornwall (pictured) and Omorfia in WottonUnder-Edge, Gloucestershire.
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inbrief // Samantha Grocutt has been announced as the elected Hair & Beauty Charity president for the 2020 tenure. Last year, Grocutt was co-president, along with Phillip Sharp of ASP, but now takes the helm alone. The charity supports industry professionals affected by illness, disability, bereavement or financial hardship. // Pretty B*tch Salon has opened a second branch in Cosham, Portsmouth, 10 years after the first launched in nearby Fratton. Designed with an all-pink décor, the new location will offer beauty treatments such as make-up, nails and facials, alongside traditional hairdressing and hair extensions. The salons are owned by sisters Beau and Madison Hyatt. // Following a five-year refurbishment, Thailand’s Chiva-Som wellness retreat will celebrate 25 years in operation with a series of events, promotions, service enhancements and product offerings throughout 2020. New additions include enlarged bedrooms, a butler service and an updated signature retail product range. // Almost 60% of British women don’t know what premature or early menopause are, according to research by Surrey clinic Health & Aesthetics. 34% did not know the difference between the two, while 25% weren’t aware of what either is. Early menopause, between the ages of 40 and 45, affects around 5% of women, while one in 100 experience premature menopause, under the age of 40. // Temple Spa has partnered with Harbour Hotels. The brand’s treatments and packages are now available at three Harbour Hotel spas across the UK: Southampton, Richmond and Guildford. Head of Spa for Temple Spa Sarah Ronchetti commented: “Both are dedicated to delivering exceptional treatments.”
Six Senses to open London hotel and spa in 2023
Hotel group Six Senses will open its first UK branch in 2023, which will feature a luxury spa. The property, which will be in the former Whiteleys department store in Bayswater, London, will comprise 110 guest rooms and suites, as well as a spa focused on holistic wellness, rejuvenation and beauty treatments. The interior design will be “reminiscent of an old-fashioned
London underground station”, and the spa facilities will include a 20m indoor swimming pool, Alchemy Bar, relaxation room with vaulted ceilings and 3,500m space dedicated to fitness. Six Senses said the client journey will be designed to “mirror the different energies of city life, from the sensory stimulation and movement of the street, to the stillness and calm of a quiet café or park”. Six Senses London members will also have access to an exclusive social and wellness club. This is the first UK property for the renowned spa hotel group, which is based in Thailand. However, Six Senses does have three other European properties, in France, Portugal and Turkey.
Newcastle City Baths £7.5m restoration complete After closing in 2013, Newcastle City Baths has re-opened with a fully restored pool and new facilities. Anthony Cawley, director of operations at Fusion Lifestyle, the charity behind the redevelopment, said: “The baths have been enjoyed by generations of locals since they opened in 1928 and are a cultural icon to the residents of the city.” The baths are one of just 11 historic Turkish baths in operation in the UK, others including the Royal Turkish Baths, Harrogate, and Ironmonger Row, London. Alongside renovation of the historic pool, new facilities include a gym, sauna and fitness studios.
Ian Cotgrave, managing director at contractor Createability, said: “While it’s been a difficult project, due to some of the technical issues of dealing with a 100-year old building, the end results are stunning and have secured the future of this beautiful building.”
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// Mii ran its fourth annual Foundation for Change beauty sale in London, raising funds for Help Refugees UK, a non-profit organisation supporting those fleeing war, persecution and climate change. The brand raised over £51,000 and drew more than 400 people. // The Manorview Hotels & Leisure Group, which owns the Lynnhurst Hotel in Johnstone and Bowlfield Hotel & Country Club in Howwood, has been awarded the Hospitality Health Charter for its commitment to caring for employees. Founder of Hospitality Health Gordon McIntyre visited the Group’s Torrance Hotel to present a Wellness Charter Certificate. // BeautyPro won SME Business of the Year 2019 at the Sussex Business Awards, recognised for its “healthy financial performance” and “a strategic plan for growth in the future”. The awards were held at the Grand Hotel in Brighton, with more than 500 names from the industry in attendance. // The Spa at Bedford Lodge Hotel in Newmarket has partnered with local activity park Wildtracks to offer a range of adrenaline-filled spa packages, including quad biking, 4x4s, go-kart racing, archery and battlefield live combat experience. Packages include “A Girls’ Evening Out”, which involves a spa cocktail evening with quads and go-karting for £115. // Dr Firas Al-Niaimi, group medical director for sk:n and a specialist-trained medical and cosmetic dermatologist, has won the Global Excellence Award and title of Consultant Dermatologist of the Year 2019 – London, awarded by LUXLife magazine.
Charity launches appeal for beauty therapists to host cancer care workshops Charity Look Good Feel Better has launched an appeal for Level 2-trained beauty therapists to host workshops in their local area for people undergoing cancer treatment. As a member of the Look Good Feel Better Regional Volunteer Appeal, therapists will be required to host a two-hour workshop teaching people useful skills and techniques for managing the side effects of cancer treatment, such as skin changes or loss of eyebrows and lashes. The sessions have been proven to have a transformational impact on
people’s confidence and self-esteem levels. “We’re in desperate need of more volunteers with qualifications in beauty – even if you can only spare a few hours,” said Lisa Curtis, director of programme services for Look Good Feel Better. “The workshops are tremendously rewarding. If you really want to make a difference this year, please do get in touch.” The charity’s workshop programme is currently offered in more than 140 hospitals and cancer centres across the UK. Therapists can sign up at lgfb.co.uk
Treatwell CEO Lopo Champalimaud steps down After 11 years at treatment-booking platform Treatwell, co-founder Lopo Champalimaud has left the company. “I finally decided, that with the new decade, it was time for me to handover the CEO role to the very talented Kei Kaji [previously chief commercial officer],” Champalimaud said. “Together with 600 immensely talented employees, we have built Treatwell into the largest hair and beauty booking platform in Europe, with tens of thousands of amazing salon partners and tens of millions of happy customers,” he added.
Champalimaud co-founded the platform in 2008 under the original name Wahanda, before rebranding to Treatwell in 2016. He will remain an advisor to Kaji and the Treatwell board.
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diarydates // March 4 UK Spa Association (UKSA) Spring Networking Event Carden Park, Chester An opportunity for UKSA members and non-members to meet and network. manager@spa-uk.org spa-uk.org // March 6–8 Beauty Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf Trade fair for cosmetics, nails, wellness and spa. +49 211 4560 7602 beauty-duesseldorf.com // March 12–16 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Fairground District, Bologna, Italy Exhibition with separate dates for packaging, perfume and beauty. +39 02 796420 cosmoprof.com
// March 29–30 Professional Beauty London ExCeL London The flagship show from the PB Group includes conferences for wellness, manufacturing, education and much more. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk // March 29–30 World Spa & Wellness Convention London ExCel London The essential conference for international spa owners and hoteliers looking to network. 020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com // April 6 Professional Beauty Cape Town The River Club, South Africa Platform to conduct business, network and source supplies. +27 (0)11 781 5970 probeauty.co.za
Nail Harmony UK rebrands to Georgie Smedley Group Following 10 years under the Nail Harmony UK name, managing directors Georgie (pictured) and Jason Smedley have rebranded their company to the Georgie Smedley Group. Since taking on Lash eXtend UK, Aeropuffing and Urban Nails, as well as manufacturing their own nail lacquer brand All That Jazz, the distributor
decided to re-name to reflect the wide range of clients it works with, aside from nails. A company statement read: “Having the amazing Nail Harmony products has created a huge following and presence here in the UK and we are extremely proud to continue to be the official UK distributor for Gelish, Gelish Hard Gel, Gelish Polygel, Gelish Dip and Prohesion Acrylic.”
Champneys College launches Beauty Therapy Scholarship Competition
Champneys Beauty College is giving one aspiring therapist the chance to win a place on its beauty scholarship programme. The winner will study either the Fast Track or Part Time Beauty Therapy Course ITEC Level 2 and 3, starting September 2020, and then undertake
a job within the Champneys Group. To enter the Beauty Therapy Scholarship Competition, applicants will need to send in an assignment to the college that showcases their “knowledge and passion for beauty” and “flair for business”. Successful applicants will then be invited in for an interview. “We’re delighted to be [giving] one student the opportunity to train with this world-renowned brand which will set them up for a career with Champneys,” said group spa director Laura Tatlow. Find out how to enter by visiting champneyscollege.com or emailing college@champneys.com.
Cynosure acquired by Clayton, Dubilier & Rice for £157m Cynosure has been acquired by an affiliate of investment funds manager Clayton, Dubilier & Rice (CD&R) for $205 million (£158m). Medical technology company Hologic previously owned Cynosure, purchasing the aesthetic laser treatment company for $1.7 billion (£1.3bn) in 2017. Cynosure’s global president Erik Anderson said: “We’re excited about
the future for CynoSure with this recent announcement. Foundationally, our business was strengthened in the past several years under Hologic, and this new acquisition by CD&R will accelerate our growth via expanded sales and marketing efforts, along with further investments in innovation and new products which will support our customer partners and improve clinical outcomes for consumers.”
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Advertorial
YOUR SUCCESS IS OUR RESPONSIBILITY NATURALIA SINTESI founded in 1976, specialise in exclusive professional cosmetic products combining NATURE, BIOTECHNOLOGY, EXPERIENCE AND INNOVATION. Our brand name is also a declaration of the company’s vision. We are pioneers in the bio-technological cosmetology industry and implement our discoveries in salons and spas by using laboratory technologies.
MOISTURISING, SOOTHING AND RE-MINERALISING mask-treatment, to be used as a complete stand-alone treatment, or at the end of other “open” facial treatments. The alginate phase is made of a base of Solum Diatomeae + Algin, micronized and enriched with Spirulina Algae and Mint. VISIT US ON STAND E41
Spirulina is an excellent antioxidant and a natural detoxifier: it contains Ascorbic acid, beta-carotene, vitamin E, all antioxidant substances that create a powerful mix against the damaging action of free radicals) & Peppermint provides an astringent action that regulates the sebum secretion, tightens pores and refines skin texture to even out skin tone. Algin is a polysaccharide found in brown algae. It moisturises and remineralise the skin while, improving the cell metabolism. Untitled-62 1
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Available in 2 versions: Algo Mask Green: moisturising, relaxing and detoxifying. Algo Mask GOLD: re-mineralising, restructuring and anti-wrinkle.
BENEFITS Moisturising, Anti-aging, Restructuring action. DESCRIPTION Immediate brightening and smoothing effect along with a progressive restructuring action for all skin types, a treatment that combines nature and bio-technology at the highest level. Once mixed with the concentrated blend, the alginate-enriched powders create a highly pliable “peel off” product, which enhances the infusion of actives and provides an easy mask removal.
Discover more Naturalia Sintesi products and treatments at www.naturaliasintesi.co.uk
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06/01/2020 16:45
Digital
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professional
beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world
Justyna Rostek (@guinot_sw18): What were your 2019 highlights? Hard to pick, but one of ours… had an article published in @pro_beauty magazine
Hot topic Armand Beasley (@armandbeasley): Thank you @pro_beauty01 for this feature on me and my work.... weird when you see a timeline, of events in your career
Advice to give a first-time waxing client Toiny Rhodes-Yeomans, owner of mobile make-up and waxing specialist The T in Beauty, commented: “This is some useful information for first-time waxers. Also, always check the lingo with the person that’s waxing you, as some people say Brazilian when they want it all off but for me that’s with a triangle/strip.” Amie Sparrow, beauty therapist at Heavenly Beauty, Bristol, commented: “I believe waxing is the best method of hair removal. Some really useful info for anyone thinking about waxing, as the first time can be quite daunting as you have no idea what to expect.”
THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you plan to increase your use of vegan beauty products in 2020?
44% YES
56% NO
Hot topic
Why beauty therapists and medical practitioners need to talk more Janice Beck, founder at Arapio, commented: “I am very pleased this is being addressed. When I started trading 15 years ago, I approached the local GP practices and explained what qualifications I had, what treatments I was offering and asked if my clients could approach the medical team should consent be required. I have been lucky, I think, as my relationship with the medical team has been great ever since.”
Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @eleanorvousden @katsjonouchi
@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Website
ANALYTICS Understanding how your website is growing and working through Google Analytics can be a huge bonus for your business. PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin explains how to use the tool and what to look out for
I
f there is any tool that I would a call a “must” for an online business, it would have to be Google Analytics. The wealth of information that it offers up is unparalleled, allowing you to spot areas where your business is booming and where you’re losing ground online. It’s a relatively easy tool to set up, with many web-hosting services offering an easy “plug-in” feature. But once you’re up and running, it can be difficult – especially if you’re not used to looking at Analytics – to know what to look for.
Getting the basics right The Google Analytics homepage offers you some great stats out of the gate. By default, it shows your website traffic over the past seven days (not including the day you are currently on). It’s easy to change this to any date range you might like – whether that be a month, year or from the moment you first set up Analytics. Depending on the range you select, Google will show you a comparison against the previous time period. With this, you can see if you’ve been gaining or losing users to your site. It’s a useful tool if you’ve been pushing your online presence, to see whether your actions have been a success. Similarly, the homepage shows you details about when users are online and what devices they are using to access your website, along with top pages. There’s lots of good info, and if you don’t want to dig deeper, you can certainly get by with some of this alone.
However, this is just a snapshot of your website’s performance – and you can find much more if you look at some of the other reports available. If you select “Acquisition” and then “Overview” from the left side of the Analytics page, you’ll be able to see a breakdown of how people have reached your website.
Take a closer look There aren’t any true benchmarks for what is “good” for any of the traffic sources. This is because it depends on how much emphasis you’ve put on each source. If you’ve invested a lot of time in your social media, you might expect the Social source to be one of your top traffic drivers. If it’s not, then it’s a sign that your current output is not the right style for getting people to your site. Organic Search is a great first place to look. This shows you the number of people who found your website through a Google search, ignoring any Google Ads you may be running – these you can find under Paid Search. While there’s no benchmark number to aim for on Organic Search, it should ideally be in your top traffic sources. A strong showing on Organic Search indicates your website is set up well with SEO (search engine optimisation) and ranking high in searches. This is obviously a goal for any website, as it’s free traffic when set up correctly. Similarly, referral traffic can be a good way to see which other websites are linking to your page. This is particularly good if you work with affiliates, as it allows you to see which are bringing in the most views to your page. PB
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Beautiful Skin Without Surgery
LIMITED OFFER £1,500 OFF ALL CACI Demonstration SYSTEMS
CACI demonstration systems are rarely made available, we only have a very limited quantity so make sure you secure this special offer whilst stocks last. Each system is supplied with two free training places and a twelve month warranty. Prices start from just £5,000 or from £6 per day.*
VISIT US ON STAND J5
EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
*Terms & Conditions apply. Offer subject to availability. All prices indicated are exclusive of VAT.
Find out what a CACI System can do for your business 020 8731 5678
info@caci-international.co.uk
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More Than Just a Treatment…
SBC Pro Empowers the Therapist with our unique
5 Phase Concept When it comes to any form of therapy, every person should be assessed for their individual needs. This process guarantees the client will leave feeling deeply relaxed, both mind and body.
Our 5 Phase Concept helps to build... Loyalty
Integrity
Results
Retention
“Putting the heart of being a therapist back into the treatment room”
VISIT US ON STAND D32
EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
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Discover more at sbcproskincare.co.uk
18/12/2019 14:31
A Totally Unique Experience
SBC Pro Skincare Promises... Naturally Derived Ingredients SBC strive to formulate, develop and deliver tailored skincare, driven by nature and enhanced by our in-house Chemists. The power of high-quality, naturally derived ingredients inspires every product we develop.
Results Driven We take the best from Mother Nature and the best from Science and combine it into effective formulas for incomparably outstanding results.
Cruelty-Free Acutely aware of customer expectation, SBC Skincare always embraces a no animal testing policy.
Vegan Friendly Products Available The majority of SBC products are suitable for Vegans and Vegetarians, making our skincare accessible to everyone.
Recyclable SBC takes conscious steps to protect the environment, utilising recyclable packaging, which in most cases incorporates 10% PCR (Post-Consumer Recycled Plastic).
Made In England, Loved All Over SBC is a professional British skincare brand, developed and manufactured in England. We are globally recognised; used and sold in over 30 countries and counting.
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Sculptura combines four of the most effective body sculpting and skin tightening technologies in one powerful aesthetic system.
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Clinically proven technology Instant, long-term results Non-invasive & painless Treats the body, face and neck No patient downtime
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Industry Events
33
Out About
Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa
GUINOT AND MARY COHR INTERNATIONAL FRANCHISE CONFERENCE NOVOTEL EIFFEL PARIS HOTEL, PARIS Guinot held an international meeting in Paris in late November for 500 salon owner franchisees. PB’s managing director Mark Moloney attended to get involved in the networking and education opportunities on offer, which included businessboosting speaker sessions delivered in both French and English. During the event, Guinot announced the launch of “Box”, a video system to be situated in the salon where customers are treated. It shows new services and can respond to each client’s individual profile, recommending specific treatments. The system is designed to help explain and upsell services to boost revenue.
THE TWO OLD QUEENS EVENT SWEET SQUARED HEADQUARTERS, LEEDS UK nail techs listened to top troubleshooting advice from nail industry legends Marian Newman and Gigi Rouse at an exclusive event held at Sweet Squared headquarters. Hot topics included nail education, product innovation and how to compete in this saturated market. “The challenges I faced in ’85 when I opened my first salon are completely different to the [ones] nail pros face today,” said Rouse. “Now, there are nail salons on every corner, as well as competition from home salons, mobile nail techs and hobbyists. Your standards, expertise, technical skills and knowledge are the absolute differentiators now.” Guests were also treated to a traditional afternoon tea.
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34 Industry Events
DERMALOGICA BIOLUMIN-C EYE SERUM LAUNCH DERMALOGICA SALON, DUKE OF YORK SQUARE, LONDON Trade press, including PB’s deputy editor Amanda Pauley, were invited to an exclusive preview of Dermalogica’s first big product launch for 2020 – BioLumin-C Eye Serum, which is the sister product to the brand’s popular vitamin C-infused BioLumin-C Serum. Senior education trainer Janine Da Costa talked through the eye serum’s USP, which aims to brighten, firm and hydrate the eye area using two forms of stable vitamin C, before guests experienced the product during an effective 10-minute Bright Eyes Skin Solver treatment. Attendees also enjoyed healthy breakfast snacks and received the product to try at home.
3D-LIPO PRESS PAMPER DAY ME LONDON, THE STRAND In December, machines brand 3D-lipo invited editors from a range of media publications to try out its 3D-HydrO2 facial. The exclusive press pamper event took place across two days in a suite at London’s ME hotel on the Strand, where journalists were treated to a personalised facial using the device. The treatment targets an array of skin concerns including anti-ageing, congestion and pigmentation using seven different technologies, including the Hydro Peel function. 3D-lipo managing director Roy Cowley was also there to talk to journalists about the “five-star facial”. The 3D-HydrO2 is a favourite with celebrities including TV personalities Billie Faiers and Danielle Lloyd, and Love Island star Nathan Massey.
SALON SYSTEM PRESENTS AT SALLY SHOWCASE EVENT SCARMAN AT THE WARWICK CONFERENCES, COVENTRY Salon System headed to Coventry to present its brand portfolio, including Gellux, Just Wax and Naturalash, to 265 Sally store managers at the annual Sally Showcase event. Salon System’s Squad Experts, including nail tech Julie-Anne Lariviere, lash artist Abbie Withers and waxer Alex Dawes, talked about the big beauty trends for 2020 and what their favourite Salon System product launches have been, as well as answering questions from the audience. This was followed by a Glam Squad performance, with all the professional dancers wearing Salon System products. The aim of the event was to further educate Sally store managers on Salon System’s ethos and offering. PB
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Advertorial
Lipofirm - the gold standard non-invasive platform for inch loss, cellulite reduction, body sculpting, skin tightening and facial rejuvenation
Before
Before
After
After
Lipofirm uniquely combines two technologies TriLipo Radiofrequency (RF) and TriLipo Dynamic Muscle Activation (DMA). Working simultaneously using a single applicator, they create a synergistic effect that delivers noninvasive fat removal and lymphatic drainage, as well as skin tightening. TriLipo – triple action fat reduction The triple action of TriLipo technology consists of RF deep volumetric heating combined with internal muscle contraction and external mechanical force, which together yield maximum fat removal and lymphatic drainage as well as skin tightening. The TriLipo triple action effect is visible from the first treatment, and long-term body shaping is achieved in a minimal number of treatments. The RF energy generates heat through tissue resistance in both the dermal and subcutaneous layers. Selective and focused electro-heating of the skin stimulates and increases fat metabolism in the subcutaneous fat layer and collagen remodelling in the dermal layer. In the subcutaneous fat layer, the thermal effect accelerates the natural fat metabolism process and the release of liquid fat from the cells into the extra-cellular matrix (figure one).
Drainage of the released liquid fat is accelerated by simultaneously applying internal and external pressure on the fat layer. Internally, TriLipo Dynamic Muscle Activation (DMA) pulses stimulate the muscle layer causing the muscle to contract. This contraction elevates the muscle and pushes the fat cells up towards the surface.
VoluDerm, is a minimally invasive solution that uses between 36 and 100 needles with radiofrequency energy to penetrate the deep dermis layer. This energy creates micro wounds which trigger the body’s natural healing response mechanism, inducing neocollagenesis to create healthy skin tissue. (figure four).
Simultaneously, the mechanical pressure of the applicator presses the skin from above. The combined internal and external pressure increases the removal of the liquid fat via accelerated lymphatic drainage (figure two). The simultaneous effect of the RF and the forced drainage results in the homogenous heating, and in accelerated blood and lymph circulation that optimises tissue oxygenation and detoxification.
TriFractional, is an advanced and effective fractional skin resurfacing technology using radiofrequency micro-pins to safely ablate and renew the epidermis layer of the skin (figure four).
Figure 4
Why choose Lipofirm technology? Figure 2: external and internal pressure yielding optimal drainage
In the dermal layer, focused RF energy heats the collagen fibres causing them to contract, resulting in immediate skin tightening and smoothening. In addition, fibroblasts’ metabolism is accelerated leading to collagen regeneration and long-term skin tightening and firming (figure three).
Figure 3: collagen remodelling in the dermal layer leads to smoother skin surface
Figure 1: liquid fat released from fat cells
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■ Focused fat reduction ■ Cellulite improvement ■ Long-term circumferential decrease ■ Skin tightening and firming ■ Facial contouring ■ Skin resurfacing ■ Scar reduction ■ Dermal volumising ■ Wrinkle reduction ■ Lifting, toning and firming of muscles ■ Detoxification and improved drainage ■ Enhanced blood circulation and oxygenation ■ 30-minute treatment sessions ■ Fast return on investment ■ No need for cardiovascular exercise.
Lipofirm is distributed in the UK and Ireland by: After After Advanced Esthetics Solutions LTD | advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk
After
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A Platform for Every Practitioner
DMA
Tripollar
TriFractional
VoluDerm
Inspired by Professionals Loved by Celebrities Don’t Take Our Word For It... Before
After
Before
After
“I bought the Lipofirm following a demo by the company. I was impressed by the user friendly nature of the machine. It is both easy to use and cost effective due to the shorter operating time required to achieve the desired results. Lipofirm has allowed me better use of my time and it has been well received by my clients. Overall Lipofirm has been an asset to my clinic’’
DR K MISRA MBBS LRCP, LRCF, MRCGP
“After years of deliberating due to financial implications, I can honestly say it is the best thing we have done for the business. We are getting some phenomenal results.” Before
After
Before
After
Sarah Wilkinson Equilibrium Aesthetics
As seen in the media: VISIT US ON STAND K5
Online
EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
02920 231228
For further information call or email sales@advancedesthetics.co.uk @aesolutionsuk www.advancedestheticssolutions.co.uk
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VISIT US ON STAND Q17
EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
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39 Business Trends
Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market
Insider
beauty
On the spot
Dorothy Perkins
As part of your business resolutions for 2020, nearly a fifth of you (15%) have signed up to beauty industryspecific plastic and glass recycling schemes to help reduce your salon’s impact on the environment. On top of this, many of you are also striving to establish a good working culture in salon so that you can retain your staff for the long term. One way you’re doing this is by taking a tough stance on workplace bullying, implementing new policies on the issue that come with disciplinary action (37%), making sure you’re more present on the salon floor (55%) and having a safe space where employees can confide their woes freely (24%). Find out how you can retain your best therapists during the recruitment crisis on page 115.
How far in advance do you plan your marketing calendar for tanning treatments? 1. One to three months 2. Four to six months 3. Yearly
December 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2018?
48% 34% 18%
15
%
are signed up to beauty industry recycling schemes
How do you minimise the chances of bullying occurring in the workplace? 1. Be aware of issues by being present on the salon floor more 2. Have a policy in place to address bullying should it arise 3. Have a safe space where employees can confide their woes
Take part in our Insider feature
BETTER
SAME
WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
73% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2018?
23% 45% 32% BETTER
WORSE
SAME
Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Business Trends
40
Insider
spa
On the spot
M&Co
With plant-based eating among the wellness trends predicted to be big this year, it’s no wonder you’ve been inundated with requests from clients (23%) to put it on your menu. Vegan meals have also grown in popularity (31%), as well as dishes that are gluten- (23%) and sugar-free (15%). Autonomous sensory meridian response (ASMR) treatments are also trending, which is why 43% of you are looking to add them to your spa’s services, too. Boosting your spa’s marketing and advertising this year is a priority for more than a third of you (36%), while others will be focusing on expanding their treatment menu (18%), updating thermal and relaxation facilities (15%), and helping therapists up their retail sales each month (11%). Center Parcs has updated the spa at its Longleat location and you won’t believe the transformation. Check it out on page 87.
Which type of meals are clients requesting at your spa? 1. Plant-based 2. Vegan 3. Gluten-free 4. Sugar-free
December 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2018?
36% 50% 14% BETTER
43 %
WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
are considering adding ASMR treatments to their menu
Which area of the business will you be focusing on the most this year? 1. Boosting your spa’s marketing and advertising 2. Expanding your treatment menu 3. Updating spa facilities 4. Upping clients’ retail spend
SAME
68% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2018?
39% BETTER
36%
25% WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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LUMINA®
‘Upgrade As You Grow’ Aesthetic Platform... Introducing the multi-treatment LUMINA® Laser and IPL platform add over 24 new revenue streams
VISIT US ON STAND N41
EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
Lynton Equipment Trade In January - March 2019
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Business Trends
42
Insider
nails
CND for Libertine at NYFW SS20
Selling the right aftercare products to clients post-treatment is an important part of any manicure or pedicure service, but there are a few items your techs are finding hard to retail. Hand cream (36%) came out top as the most challenging sell, followed closely by the matching polish to your client’s chosen nail shade (28%), cuticle oil (14%) and nail files (7%). Meanwhile, with at-home DIY gel-polish systems still on the rise, just under half of you (42%) have had awkward conversations with clients who have asked for your advice on how to use these kits. This shows there’s still a lot the industry needs to do to help clients see why having a treatment with a professional is the only way to get safe and longlasting results. On page 113, award-winning nail tech Katie Barnes reveals how to achieve the perfect form fit every time.
On the spot Which product do you find most difficult to retail to clients post-manicure? 1. Hand cream 2. Matching colour polish 3. Cuticle oil 4. Nail file
42%
have had clients ask them advice on how to use at-home gel-polish kits
December 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2018?
38% 44% 18% BETTER
SAME
WORSE
NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK Which style of caption on social media posts engages your customers the most? 1. Informative 2. Sassy 3. Funny 4. Heartfelt METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from January 2–7, regarding business for the month to December 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.
36 HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2018?
15% 56% 29% BETTER
WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Ready to in 2020? 8334 PBEX20 3pp Teaser FEB20.indd 1
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AT THE HEART OF YOUR PROFESSION 8334 PBEX20 3pp Teaser FEB20.indd 2
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UNLOCK NEW OPPORTUNITIES
JOIN US AT THE UK’S LARGEST EVENT FOR SALON AND SPA PROFESSIONALS BEAUTY | SPA | WELLNESS
ENTRY IS FREE, REGISTER NOW AT: www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/2020tickets GET INVOLVED AND KEEP UP-TO-DATE #PBLondon @pro_beauty
ProfessionalBeautyUK
pro_beauty01
Professional Beauty London is open only to trade and professional visitors over the age of 14. Under no circumstances will babies, prams, pushchairs or buggies be permitted. Your entrance badge will be emailed to you 2-3 weeks before the show. Please print it and bring it with you for entry.
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VISIT US ON STAND M51
EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
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47 Ward’s World
Consult to
Win
No matter how skilled your team, or how regular the client, the consultation should never be skipped or rushed. HELLEN WARD explains why
I
’m a big fan of mystery shopping. I tend to use it as a tool to not only see what other salons are delivering, but also to test the expertise and customer service of my own team. I also use it when there’s a performance problem. Let’s be honest, when was the last time any of us were salon customers? Sending someone to see a leading salon from a client’s perspective is a sure-fire way to get them to up their game, because sometimes all the coaching in the world is no substitute for experiencing the real thing. I’ve always managed by one principal; if your staff training is good enough, there’s no such thing as a bad treatment, cut or colour – merely a below-par consultation. Failing to truly engage with the customer and discover their own personal wish-list will always leave them wanting. And with competition so vast, there’s always a competitor who’s willing to go the extra mile to discover and meet their needs, then exceed expectations, which remains the winning formula to ensure that crucial repeat business.
In evaluating the feedback with him, I likened his error to going for an eye test only to find the optometrist had already diagnosed your sight before using any of the equipment to check. Imagine that – not having the air puffed into your eyes, not using the dots to check peripheral vision, not reading the letters out, and so on. Not explaining why the tests were being conducted and what they were looking for. Even if the expert could conclude from the outset, you’d still feel shortchanged by the experience. The other mystery shopper mentioned that because she’d told our salon director she was a hairdresser, he didn’t deliver the full consultation. I get her point, but using the analogy above, surely if an optometrist went for an eye test and told the operator what they did for a living, they wouldn’t bother to explain in detail every element of the examination.
Mystery shopping
Managing expectations
With our salon manager doing so much globetrotting, delivering seminars on the ultimate salon experience, you won’t be surprised to learn that we are being increasingly mystery shopped by other salon owners, and we’ve learnt some valuable lessons from what we’ve been told. A case in point happened just before Christmas. A fellow salon owner sent two of his key staff to experience us as a leading brand, and they were disappointed. One of our exceptionally talented team members cut and blow dried one of his team’s hair and it fell short of expectations. The problem wasn’t the result, but the lack of consultation. As fabulous a hairdresser as he is, he works purely on instinct. He omitted to explain why he’d arrived at his recommendation.
Regardless, lessons were learned. We’re re-training on consultation skills and reminding all our team that they can never not explain eye colour, skin tone, texture, density and face shape. We’ve also alerted customers as a policy that if they come in on a Monday they won’t be seeing the salon at full pelt, as 90% of our 100-strong team take Monday as their day off (including our chef, so there’s no food available). Mondays for us are merely there to service our regulars or for those who love a bit of peace and quiet. The fact was, we hadn’t really explained that before now, so learning from someone’s bad experience can only ever be a good thing. PB
Failing to truly engage with the customer and discover their own personal wish-list will always leave them wanting
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Business Tips
49
ask
the EXPERTS
Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
How can I safely combine technologies to create results-driven facials? There’s been an increase in the number of technologies being mixed together to create “wonder” combination treatments. While these protocol blends can be used effectively to provide great results as part of an ongoing treatment plan, it’s really about the therapist knowing what works well together and what doesn’t. Just because you can combine a treatment doesn’t mean that you should, and an aggressive approach isn’t always a progressive one. For example, the classic combination of galvanic desincrustation with high frequency is a match made in heaven for the right client. Galvanic desincrustation uses a low-voltage negative current that deep cleanses the skin, reducing sebum and congestion in preparation for extractions. High frequency uses a direct current to help healing after extractions and dry secretions. The ozone produced has an antibacterial and germicidal effect on the skin, which is why these two technologies work cohesively to treat congested complexions. However, many protocols do not require treatment combinations because they are great standalone procedures, such as microneedling. This technology can be used in combination with other treatments such as chemical peeling, radiofrequency and lasers, but it works best as a standalone protocol with topical products to give a glide, creating micro-punctures that allow for deeper penetration of actives. The introduction of chemical peeling to microneedling can improve results too, but if it is not carried out safely it can have a detrimental
effect, especially on darker Fitzpatrick skin types. Chemical peels are another fantastic standalone treatment and again it doesn’t really need to be combined. Plus, if the blended protocol is not right for your client’s skin then these one-hit-wonder combinations can cause lasting damage to the skin and further complications such as postinflammatory pigmentation, granulomas, further collagen degradation, inflammation, infection and scarring.
Jody Adele Taylor is owner of Skin Deep salon in Doncaster and Professional Beauty’s Therapist of the Year 2017.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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50 Business Tips
How can I identify the perception clients have of my salon and improve it?
How can I improve the retail to treatment revenue ratio in my salon? The industry average is around 5% retail to treatment revenue; however, boosting retail sales needn’t feel like a mammoth mountain to climb. It may sound obvious, but if a therapist doesn’t understand the products, they can’t sell them. Retail training is essential to enable therapists to feel confident. Book refresher training in advance of peak seasons so you can maximise sales, and don’t forget to train your reception staff too. They also play a role in the customer’s purchase journey and can be a great asset for add-on sales. Additionally, stocking retail products that have strong links to your treatments makes it much easier for therapists to sell. If the customer likes the results of the treatment, they will want to continue those results at home. Although facials tend to be easier to retail, massage and waxing treatments are usually booked more often. To avoid missing out on sales, stock body exfoliators to treat dry skin and ingrown hairs. Aromatherapy products are also great as they can link to any body treatment. Clients are more responsive at the beginning of the treatment, so rather than rushing them onto the couch, take time to discuss which skin concerns they would like to improve. Briefly mention a product for this concern that links to the treatment. Afterwards, point out the results from that product and ask something Gina Baker is a skincare trainer for Spanish skincare like, “shall we get you started on brand Germaine de that eye cream today?” This Capuccini, distributed in the makes for a more natural and UK by Totally UK. relaxed sale.
With our franchise salons nationwide we implement the following methods to ensure standards and client’s perceptions remain positive. Firstly, be a customer yourself; this is the easiest way to obtain a client’s perception of your business. Analyse all areas of the client journey. Look around at your reception – is it clean? Do your team look presentable? Do you display marketing materials to read? Has someone offered to take your coat? All these details build a strong perception of your business. Then go a little deeper and analyse how the therapists showcase their expertise. Would you rebook with them? I would then recommend organising for your business to be mystery shopped. This is a reasonably inexpensive way to acquire a detailed client perception and highlight areas for improvement. Online reviews are essential too. Encourage clients to leave you a review on Google as this will significantly improve your ranking. Facebook reviews are also crucial as their visibility and reach is far greater. Social media also gives you control in influencing client perception. Think about what impression you would like to create and build your social strategy around this.
Olivia Seymour is franchise marketing manager at Guinot UK and part of a team spearheading the brand’s new free business coaching scheme, PHD.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Business Tips
54
How can I increase my profits amidst growing competition?
How can I be more assertive with my staff? As an industry business coach, I talk to many salon owners and most of them have staff problems. The reason why is simple. They’re nearly all afraid of confrontation, which leads to them not being assertive enough with their staff. This inevitably leads to a lack of leadership and clear communication. There are no consequences and staff either ignore or interpret salon rules how they like, while their employer tries to keep everyone happy and fails. Now, don’t confuse being assertive with being aggressive, they’re not the same at all. Aggressive behaviour, like nagging, bullying and perfectionism, leads to a win-lose relationship where the aggressor gets what they want and to hell with everyone else. Salon owners who behave like this attract and deserve every staff problem they get. Assertive behaviour, based on high trust and clear, fact-based communication, leads to win-win relationships where staff understand what you want and what’s in it for them if they give it to you. Salon owners who behave like this make inspiring leaders who attract loyal and hard-working team members because they know what’s expected, where they stand and what’s in it or them. If you’ve just realised you could be more assertive, send me an email with “That’s not the issue!” as the Kelly Shaw is a salon business subject line and a bit of coach and founder of salon information about what’s k:SPA. She is an ambassador for skincare brand Dermalogica. happening in your salon and I’ll Get a free assertiveness-building send you full details of a powerful, technique by emailing her at easy to learn, with my kelly@mykspa.co.uk compliments.
Firstly, to be profitable you need to stop looking at what other salons are doing. Unfollow their accounts and let’s focus on your business. Secondly, you need to be charging for profit. I know that sounds obvious but a lot of salon owners are not sure what profit they make per treatment or service because they don’t have a pricing strategy, leaving it to chance if they turn a profit. This is why I teach my clients “the profit equation”; so that from the pricing structure and throughout the business they can reverse-engineer the profit they want to make week after week, month after month, and year on year. For each service and treatment you offer, your price should follow the equation: treatment/service cost = business costs + stock + wage + VAT/tax + profit. The reason 80% of salons are not profitable is because they are not using a correct pricing strategy and if you do not know the equation above for each treatment and service, then how can you even begin marketing profitably? This is not uncommon for our industry. Most salons come to us having made huge losses by marketing treatments for low prices without realising what it was costing them to deliver services. By implementing this formula, you can help boost your profits.
Jessica Crane is an international business coach helping salon owners increase profit and reach the next level in their business. Get free profit-boosting tips by emailing hello@jessicacrane.co.uk
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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What is AIDA marketing and how can I implement it in my salon?
What should I consider before partnering with a supplier? The relationship with your supplier is extremely important as you’re entrusting them to provide products at the best possible price. With this in mind, I would recommend you do lots of research before engaging with a supplier. Do they offer a loyalty scheme? This is an attractive bonus as it allows you to earn as you spend. Additionally, look to see if they produce a newsletter. These are an excellent way to keep abreast of any exciting new products as well as all the latest offers and discounts. Check out their social media accounts too. Ask how often they post on Instagram and Facebook and if they are happy to drop you a “like” or “follow” on your accounts. If so, this is free publicity for your salon. You should also check where they are based. Ordering online is a breeze, but sometimes we like to be able to see, touch and feel products prior to investing. And make sure to ask if they offer next-day delivery, even if this comes with an additional fee. We all get caught out at times, forgetting to order replacements or essentials. What are the prerequisites for setting up an account? A supplier should be falling over themselves to have you on-board and spending, so your training credentials, address and contact details should suffice. Also, what training courses do they offer? Never underestimated your capacity and ability to learn new things. Most suppliers will relish the opportunity to help you add another string to your bow. Finally, what are their payment terms? Most suppliers will require payment in advance. April Worthington is UK However, if you’re a large salon or account manager for nail have multiple sites then enquire if brand LCN, which is distributed they offer NET 30, where you can by The Edge. pay 30 days after ordering.
AIDA is a marketing model that sets the precedent for all marketing carried out by 3D-lipo and it stands for Attention, Interest, Desire and Action. It provides an easy understanding of exactly what should be covered in a promotion and ensures that the key information is communicated to the client. • Attention: Capture your audience’s attention through brand awareness campaigns or exclusive offers. Provide valuable content and you will grab their curiosity to learn more. This can be through bold headlines, graphics or valuable information. • Interest: Clinics should ensure that brand information is easily accessible on their website, including how treatments work and details about the brand. Product details should also be easily accessible to save users jumping from page to page. • Desire: Clinics can generate desire in a number of ways including limitedtime offers. The more clients see your brand, so long as the content is of value, the more the appeal of your services will increase. • Action: It is essential to use a call to action such as “book your free consultation” or “request further information”. After all, what’s the point in creating if it your prospect clients have no way to act on it?
Business Tips
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Roy Cowley is founder and managing director of 3D-lipo, which manufactures a wide range of aesthetic devices.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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59 Interview
Talking to...
VIKEE Patel Having built up a portolio of eight salons and day spas in as many years, The Cove Spa and Lavender & Stone director tells Eleanor Vousden how she’s stayed on top of the fast expansion and kept her team motivated
W
hen they opened The Cove Spa in St Albans, Hertfordshire, in 2012, husband-and-wife team Krupesh and Vikee Patel would never have anticipated owning a further seven sites before the decade was out. Yet, together they have built a portfolio of eight locations across Hertforshire, Buckinghamshire and London via acquisitions of existing salons and spas. Four now sit under The Cove Spa brand and a further four under Lavender & Stone Beauty Rooms, which they bought last year. Alongside their extensive treatment offering and product houses, Vikee, who has 17 years of beauty therapy experience under her belt, puts the success of The Cove Spa down to the team’s attentive customer service. “The philosophy we’ve had from day one is to exceed customers’ expectations; we need to go one step further,” she says. “It’s part of our culture and we always try to think
about how to go the extra mile for our clients.” The attention to customer experience, coupled with an arsenal of established product houses including Aromatherapy Associates and Environ, has since attracted a strong client base. After the success of their first site, they decided it was time to grow the business. “In our first year, we thought that this was something we could expand on and it was actually the feedback we were getting from customers that gave us the idea to look at opening others,” says Patel. The following year, they acquired their second spa in Hitchin, a much larger site, and in 2014 branched into London with their Chiswick spa (formerly the Chiswick Health and Wellness Spa). “We have strategically repositioned that business into a wellbeing centre where we run The Cove Spa >
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Interview
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on one floor, which has seven treatment areas, and then the floor above we have turned into a wellness clinic where we have various practitioners, including a chiropractor, acupuncturist, nutritionist and psychotherapist,” says Patel. But it didn’t stop there. While bringing up two children and juggling their three sites, they acquired their fourth spa in North Finchley in 2016. Then, just two years later, an opportunity arose to add to their portfolio with an offer to acquire Lavender & Stone Beauty Rooms’ four sites from founder Anna Nickless, who wanted to sell in order to set up a salon business consultancy (AB Beauty Consultancy, which launched in late 2019).
A new frontier
our own neighbourhood’. And it just so happens that we are now the owners of the salon.” With four Cove Spa sites already under their belt, the couple began thinking about how to approach this new business. “Where we had previously purchased individual and independently run units, we’d been given the opportunity to rebrand them and open the doors to a much wider clientele,” says Patel. “Lavender & Stone is established in its own right, so we didn’t want to take that approach. They’ve got a great client base, a great reputation in the market and a great product. We’ve had to stand back, observe and educate ourselves.” Even though the salons were in a similar location, the duo saw this as an opportunity to target different clients in the area. “Two out of the four were very close to ours, but they had different product houses, including Medik8, and a slightly different approach to their target customer,” says Patel. While The Cove Spa offers a serene ambience for spa rituals alongside advanced skincare and body treatments, Lavender & Stone has a chatty, bustling atmosphere and also offers an aesthetic clinic alongside its beauty menu. “We thought this was brilliant, because we have an offering that suits client A or client B between the two brands,” says Patel.
Lavender & Stone has a great client base, a great reputation in the market and a great product. We’ve had to stand back, observe and educate ourselves
Vikee and Krupesh had previously spotted one of the Lavender & Stone salons back in 2013. “I was driving through the high street and a new sign had gone up on the local beauty salon, which is now Lavender & Stone,” says Patel. “When you’re in this industry, you’re always looking out for other salons and we said: ‘Oh my gosh, it’s just been sold, how did we not hear about that? It would be great to have a beauty salon in
Challenges and opportunities
Clockwise from top: Lavender & Stone treatment room, Harpenden; The Cove Spa Chiswick; The Cove Spa Finchley
With the acquisition doubling their portfolio overnight, the process wasn’t plain sailing. The initial conversation to acquire Lavender & Stone began in 2018, but it took nearly a year for the deal to be >
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VISIT US ON STAND C17
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Interview
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Clockwise from left: The Cove Spa Hitchin; Lavender & Stone Harpenden; The Cove Spa St Albans
KEY DATES 2012 Krupesh and Vikee Patel purchase their first site, The Cove Spa, St Albans, and begin seeking other branches 2013 They acquire and rebrand their second branch in Hitchin 2014 Add their third branch to the portfolio in Chiswick, which has a wellbeing centre with a range of holistic therapies 2016 Open a fourth site in North Finchley 2019 Acquire Lavender & Stone’s four sites across Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire and restructure the team across all eight sites
completed. “We couldn’t inform anybody throughout the process, so it was a secret that Krupesh and I were involved in,” says Patel. “We had to do a lot of market insight and research, but we couldn’t rely on our existing team to help, as we didn’t want the news to come out in case it didn’t happen.” Between the two of them, they followed their usual process before acquiring a new business, including putting a business plan together and considering location, customer demographic and where the key opportunities were. One of the challenges was scarcity of staff, which has been a widespread problem across the industry. “There are fewer therapists being educated but there are more beauty salons and spas opening, so everyone is scrambling for the same team members,” says Patel. However, they saw this as an opportunity to recruit junior members of staff and have been developing working relationships with local beauty colleges. “With four branches and four more around the corner, we thought it was time to open doors,” says Patel. Consequently, they now offer Level 3 beauty therapy students a two-week work experience opportunity and grow talent from within. “It’s a bit silly if you preach the
importance of hands-on experience but then don’t open the doors to recruitment into your own business, so we’re conscious of that and we now have a platform whereby we’ll bring those team members in, and then nurture them into senior therapists,” says Patel. They have also been able to support the development of senior members of staff. “Krupesh and I are very passionate about our business and while there are only the two of us, we’ve been able to give the individual units more managerial support,” says Patel. For example, they recently promoted area manager Vicki Rhodes to oversee all eight sites under a new head of operations role. To support her, they promoted two branch managers to become junior managers across the portfolio, then appointed two new branch managers. “It’s been a case of trying to develop and nurture our team and really help progression internally, rather than hiring externally; it’s more rewarding for our team members,” says Patel.
Future focused While the Patels are contemplating the idea of merging the two businesses, they first want to invest some time into Lavender & Stone to get to know the differences. After acquiring eight sites in just eight years, the next 12-18 months will be a consolidation period, where they will consider how the sites can operate together best. “I think 2020 is going to be a massive year,” says Patel. “But we want to get this right for our customers and get these branches working to their optimal potential before we consider pushing forward even more.” PB
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STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD b e p a r t o f s o m ethi ng b i g g er in a market saturated with competition on every high street make sure your salon stands out
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Professional Beauty London 2020
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Hotbed of
innovation
If you want to be the first to discover the product and treatment launches set to shape the market in 2020, PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY LONDON on March 29-30 is an event not to be missed. Here is just a taster of what will be revealed Biologique Recherche
SKINCARE ANP Advanced Nutrition Programme (ANP) will showcase its range of skin supplements, which enhance the results of treatments and homecare products. The IIAA brand will bring its recently launched Skin Moisture Lock, as well as its duo pack, Skin Moisture Lock Plus, which includes Skin Omegas+ to nourish dry skin.
The skincare brand will reveal its first tinted serum line, Sérums de Teint. Following three years of development, the line promises to deliver both skincare performance and skin tone adjustment. There are five shades and the formulation includes an anti-pollution polysaccharide, plus prickly pear seed oil to hydrate.
Apraise The eye-focused brand from Professional Beauty Systems will have a host of new and recent launches to show visitors. The latest is Eye Serum, a lifting and soothing formulation that targets the upper eyelid and is enriched with hyaluronic acid. The brand’s Eye Cream, with white flower extracts and caffeine, will also be on show.
Dermalogica View and test latest releases such as BioLumin-C Serum, a targeted eye treatment which works to firm and brighten using the brand’s vitamin C complex and micro-algae extracts; and Phyto-Nature Firming Serum, which is powered by sapphire-bound biomimetic peptides to reduce exposome-driven ageing (damage caused by environmental exposures such as UV and pollution).
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Elemis
Germaine de Capuccini
There are loads of launches lined up from the British skincare brand this year. Visitors can check out the latest extension to the Superfood collection, including the new Cica Calm cleanser and hydrating serum, as well as new products in the Peptide4 range, Overnight Radiance Peel and Antioxidant Hydra-Serum.
The skincare brand will be showcasing its latest launch LED-Xpert Skin Light Therapy – a noninvasive LED device which can be added on to facials to enhance results. The mask, which features high-density diodes, is based on the idea of photo-biological therapy to stimulate tissue regeneration and has four treatment programmes – Red for rejuvenation; Purple for acne-prone skin; Green for hyperpigmentation; and Orange for sensitivity.
Environ Environ will be demonstrating its updated Electro-Sonic DF Treatments, which combine gentle pulses and soundwaves to drive active vitamins deep into the lower layers of the skin. The new versions of these facials offer a more bespoke approach, enabling you to address specific concerns.
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Guinot Guinot will have a major focus on its franchise salon opportunities this year, with experts on hand to talk to salons about the new free business coaching programme it has developed. The brand will also talk visitors through its upcoming one-hour anti-pollution treatment, which will launch in April to support the existing Bioxygene Skincare Line.
Image Skincare
Eve Taylor For this year, a key focus for aromatherapy-based skincare brand Eve Taylor will be extensions to its Age Resist line, which is formulated for more mature skins. The company is also in the process of revamping its packaging to update it with a fresh, modern look and feel.
Visit the advanced skincare brand’s stand to see its newly relaunched Ormedic collection, which is now free of all ingredients that could disrupt the skin’s pH balance or cause sensitivity. The formulations include organic ingredients grape water, aloe vera and a combination of seven soothing extracts – red clover blossom, burdock root, calendula, lotus flower, tamarind, turmeric and Japanese green tea. >
Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london
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Professional Beauty London 2020
70 Kaeso The skincare brand will show its latest products, including the Anti-Age range, which features a retinol moisturiser, a serum and a micellar water. The brand has also launched manicure and pedicure kits, which both house scrubs, treatment masks and creams for nourished hands and feet.
Katherine Daniels The British beauty brand will launch the Photo-Dynamic Therapy System, which pairs an LED mask with lightactivated skincare. The system uses the brand’s Light Activated Concentrates (pictured) to work in harmony with the technology.
SBC This year, SBC is launching a complete body therapy kit, providing treatments that work towards simplifying the process for its clients, as well as the new Hyaluronic Hyrda Mist, a 300ml spray that hydrates the skin on both face and body and tackles fine lines and wrinkles.
Thalgo At this year’s show, Thalgo will launch its latest range, Spiruline Boost, designed to tackle signs of ageing linked to an urban lifestyle, such as pollution, fatigue and stress. Included is the Detoxifying Mask, Detoxifying Serum, Energising Anti-Pollution Gel-Cream, Eye Gel, Booster Concentrate and Detox Shot.
Pevonia Pevonia will be on-hand to discuss its range of face and body treatments at this year’s show. The brand will also run three special offers for new customers placing an opening order, including £1,000 worth of promotional materials and an additional 10–20% worth of free products (professional or retail).
DEVICES 3D-lipo The aesthetic device manufacturer will reveal two new machines in the early part of this year as it broadens its operations into new areas. Visitors will get a sneak peek, as well as being able to see the recently launched 3D-HydrO2 facial machine, which combines seven technologies, and the 3D-Ultimatepro for fat, cellulite and skin tightening.
Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london
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Lynton
Advanced Esthetics Solutions New launches from the machines company include Lipofirm MED+, which offers four technologies in one device for the face and body, and Q-30 EVO, which treats 30 indications within one platform. There will also be demonstrations taking place on aesthetic face and body platforms Lipofirm PRO, Lipofirm MED, Divine PRO and geneO.
CACI The machine brand will bring its popular Synergy system to the show, which uses simultaneous photo electrical delivery, combining the original CACI toning technology with pulsed LED light stimulation for skin rejuvenation. The device has 110 programmes for facial toning, skin exfoliation, wrinkle reduction and more, and therapists will be demoing the treatment on stand.
Lynton will bring its Lumina, Motus AY, 3JUVE, Initia and Promax devices to this year’s show. The Motus AY laser hair removal platform is a high-speed Alexandrite laser to treat both lighter and darker skin tones, and it can even treat clients with fine and light hair.
Opatra
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Opatra’s new Aqua Spectra Machine combines multiple treatments in one, including hydro-microdermabrasion, radiofrequency, bipolar RF and ultrasonic, among others. With immediate results, benefits include deep cleansing and exfoliation, increased circulation, boosted collagen, and a reduction in wrinkles and fine lines with no downtime.
Cynosure Aesthetic therapists can check out Cynosure’s StimSure Product – an electromagnetic bodycontouring device that delivers 24,000 contractions in 20 to 30 minutes to firm and tone muscles. The electrical current causes body muscles to contract like they normally would during exercise and stimulates an action potential in the motor neuron cells of the body’s muscles for more efficient growth of fibres.
NAILS Nail Harmony There’s plenty of exciting news at Nail Harmony this year, as the Gelish and Lash eXtend distributor reveals a rebrand. The company will be known as Georgie Smedley Group to reflect the growing portfolio it distributes which currently includes Gelish, Lash eXtend, All That Jazz, ProHesion, GHG, Aeropuffing and Urban Nails. >
Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london
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Professional Beauty London 2020
72 Pure Nails Pure Nails will bring its popular 8ml Halo EasiBuild to this year’s show, as well as the new Halo PoliBuild, which is strong, flexible and ideal for sculpting on natural nails or extensions and tips. Also available will be First Bloom, Pure Nails’s newest Halo Gel Polish, featuring six pastel shades.
MAKE-UP
WAXING & TANNING Ashmira Botanica There will be two new waxes to discover at the show. River Moss strip wax and Seagrass peelable wax. They are two shades of shimmering green and both are vegan. They are a soft, creamy texture and the peelable wax can be applied either thinly or thickly, depending on how the therapist prefers to work.
Inika Organic This will be the Australian brand’s first trade show with its new UK subsidiary. Inika Organic will showcase its natural and organic make-up products and launch its new 100% natural skincare line, which contains antioxidants and a powerful protective system to shield skin against pollution and maintain hydration levels. Top products will include the Camellia Oil Cleanser (pictured) and the Phyto-Active Micellar Water.
Hive of Beauty Waxers can shop the brand’s full suite of wax products and heaters at the show, including the Dual Digital Wax Pot Heater 1,000cc & 500cc and the recently updated Oritree range (pictured) which now sits under the Hive umbrella. The company has also updated its Dual LashLift System so it can be used for both lash lifting and popular brow lamination. Hive will also be launching a brand new product at the show – watch this space.
Lycon
Jane Iredale IIAA will unveil Jane Iredale’s Spring Collection at Professional Beauty London, ideal for adding a pretty pop of colour for the new season. Enriched with botanicals to protect and nourish, the formulations are free from artificial chemicals and irritants and are gentle enough to apply immediately after treatments. You can also check out other recent launches including Queen Bee Pure Pressed Blush.
Lycon will showcase its Ingrown-X-it range, which includes the Ingrown-X-it Foaming Gel. With a brand new look, this salicyclic acid and lemon tea-tree infused gel helps to clear pore blockages and prevent ingrown hairs on the face and body. Also on show will be the Lyco’pedi pedicure system, which offers seven products and two kits.
Norvell Don’t miss Norvell’s Oasis Airbrush Spray Tanning Gun. Shaped like a hairdryer, it makes the tanning application quick and easy with a microfine diffuser. Thanks to its lightweight design, it’s compact and portable for both salon and mobile use. >
Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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74 Perron Rigot Following on from the success of the Fiorella strip wax, Perron Rigot will be launching its Fiorella Non-Strip Wax at the show. The hypoallergenic wax is rosin free and has a smooth, easy-to-apply formula for fuss-free waxing. It’s a great choice for clients with sensitive skin and can effectively remove stubborn hair too.
EQUIPMENT & BUSINESS BC Softwear
Phorest
The towelling specialist has created SmartKnit towels as part of its energy-saving SmartSoft collection. Key claims for SmartKnit include energy savings of 8.5%, 60% less oil absorption, 9.2% faster drying time and 5% less water consumption compared to traditional towels.
The cloud-based salon software provider will offer one-to-one mini consultations with a salon marketing expert. Phorest will also promote its free 30Days2Grow challenge, which involves daily tasks designed to help meet targets and encourage business growth.
REM REM will bring Plaza Pepispa Unit, a booth-style pedi seat with a ceramic basin that comes with or without a whirlpool and tap, available in more than 20 different fabrics and laminates. Also showcased will be the Florence Nail Bar, available as a one- or two-position unit with storage.
VTCT ITEC and VTCT will be on hand to talk visitors through the latest advancements in their qualifications portfolios and resources, as well as the new Beauty Apprenticeship Standards. PB
Gharieni The Gharieni Triple Detox Therapy i3Dome, combining far infrared technology with plasma and light therapy, will be showcased. No therapists are needed during the treatment, which uses bi-carbon technology to stimulate metabolism and the perspiration of the body with long-wave infrared rays.
Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Professional Beauty London 2020
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Live AND Learn
W
Professional Beauty London will host a world-class education programme on March 29–30, with plenty for salons, spas and mobile techs
ant to take your business to the next level this year? Advance your skills at Professional Beauty London with our standout education line-up. Taking place at ExCel London on March 29–30, the
show will host experts from across the industry, giving educational talks across our four seminar programmes, two live stages, Salon and Spa Connect networking session, Education Forum and more. Here’s what we have in store…
LIVE STAGES AND SEMINARS Business Skills programme – Speakers will deliver advice on everything from recruiting and retaining millennial and generation Z talent to improving your salon’s retail-to-treatment revenue ratio. Don’t miss beauty business expert Liz McKeon’s session on “The fast track to earning more money in your salon”, taking place on Sunday, March 29, at 12pm. Digital Skills programme – Learn how to monetise your salon through social media platforms and get to grips with the metrics that come with them. Nails by Annabel trainer Charli Jepson will explain how you can build your business through Instagram on Sunday, March 29, at 12pm. “How to” programme – Swot up on the latest treatment trends and techniques, from perfecting your intimate waxing skills to speedy nail art designs for busy salons. Spa industry leader Beata Aleksandrowicz will talk about “A positive approach to ageing” on Sunday, March 29, at 11am.
the nail art trends set to dominate this year and how to customise nail forms for all types of enhancements, a talk which will be given by award-winning tech Katie Barnes on Monday, March 30, at 11am. Lashes, Brows & Make-Up Live Stage – Both amateur and seasoned MUAs can benefit from the demos on this stage. From creating make-up looks for mature brides to how to carry out a brow lamination treatment, with Lash Perfect’s Corinne Morley hosting the latter session on Monday, March 30, at 1pm. Advanced Treatments Live Stage – An informative programme aimed at advanced therapists who want to continue to upskill. The agenda will include a session by Andrew Hansford, Fillmed lead skin quality expert and trainer, on combination therapies relating to mesotherapy, taking place on Sunday, March 29, at 11am. Sponsored by:
Nail Skills programme – This one-day programme has been designed with nail techs in mind. Hot topics include
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Professional Beauty London 2020
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SALON AND SPA CONNECT The networking forum for salon and spa owners will return this year with an even greater focus on the issues that matter to you. This is your chance to discuss business challenges with likeminded owners in an informal setting, share solutions and be part of a supportive community. Discussions will be divided into individual tables which will be hosted by experienced industry leaders. Tickets costs £25 (inc VAT). Book now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/London
EDUCATION FORUM
Sponsored by:
The aim of the Education Forum is simple – to raise industry standards and prepare the next generation of therapists to meet the needs of the ever-evolving beauty sector. The one-day programme will take place on Monday, March 30, and will connect college heads with top employers to discuss how to better train students entering the sector. A full day ticket costs £10: see the full programme and book at professionalbeauty.co.uk/ educationforum
IMF The International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) is back with hard-hitting content, international pavilions and unrivalled networking opportunities. The two-day conference provides in-depth insights into the global beauty industry and gives brand owners, distributors and retailers the chance to learn practical business solutions and make valuable contacts. A one-day ticket costs £145+VAT, two-day ticket £195+VAT. Book at professionalbeauty.co.uk/ imfprogramme
NEW FOR 2020 • Funding Your Future – one-day event (Monday, March 30) for trailblazing brands or spas looking for funding options for their business, covering routes such as crowd funding, angel investments and private equity. Tickets cost £295. Book now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/funding • Cosmetics, Ingredients and Packaging International – one-day conference (Monday, March 30) for entrepreneurs looking to launch their own beauty brand, covering the best routes to market, common pitfalls and latest trends in cosmetic regulations. Tickets cost £145. Book now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/cipi
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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81 Professional Beauty London 2020
Bring IT ON
Prove that you’re the best in your sector by entering one of the lash, make-up or nails competitions at Professional Beauty London
NAIL COMPETITION The format this year has changed, with the addition of two new video categories – Pink & White and Artistic. In this social media age, techs will be required to show off these techniques in two-to-three-minute videos that are worthy of Instagram, which they will submit to judges before the show. These videos will then be displayed on a running reel at PB London for all to see, before the winners are announced on the Sunday (March 29). There will also be two photography categories. Three other nail categories will still be performed live on the show floor, while the boxed categories willl need to be prepared beforehand and brought to the show for judging. On the Monday (March 30), The Georgie Smedley Group will be also be hosting Gelish and nail art workshops for students and beginners in the competition area. ONLINE CATEGORIES: • Pink & White (video) • Artistic (video) • Photography Classic • Photography Nail Art
LIVE CATEGORIES: • Salon Nail • Gel-Polish • Nail Masters
PRE-PREPARED CATEGORIES: • Boxed – Mixed Media • Boxed – Hand Painted
Entry price: £24.50 per category, excluding video which are free.
LASH COMPETITION
Sponsored by:
The two-day (March 29–30) Lash Competition will see seasoned and student lash artists show off their skills in three different extension styles. Judges, including competition director Heather Hughes, will be looking for exceptional application and confidence. CATEGORIES AND DIVISIONS: •C lassic: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions • Russian 2D–4D: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions • New Volume: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions Entry price per category: Professionals: £75 I Students: £25
MAKE-UP COMPETITION PB’s one-day student Make-Up Competition will be returning, with popular categories including body painting. It will be co-hosted by celebrity make-up artist Armand Beasley, and the full list of categories and competing requirements will be revealed soon. For entry details and full rules on all competitions, see professionalbeauty.co.uk/competitions
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AWARDS LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE 28 JUNE 2020
Compete and raise your industry profile BOOK YOUR TICKETS Nail Salon of the Year Therapist of the Year Employer of the Year Spa/Salon Team of the Year Spa/Salon Leader of the Year Large Spa of the Year* Boutique Spa of the Year*
Large Salon of the Year* Boutique Salon of the Year* Midlands & North West Salon of the Year Midlands & North West Spa of the Year North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Salon of the Year
North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Spa of the Year South West & Wales Salon of the Year South West & Wales Spa of the Year South East Salon of the Year South East Spa of the Year
*These four categories cannot be entered directly. Winners will be the highest scoring spas and salons from all of the regional categories
The winners will be announced at a black-tie ceremony on 28 June 2020, at a brand new location, London Hilton Park Lane
PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.CO.UK/PBAWARDS
CMJNWITH THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS:
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Launch Analysis
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INTO
the forest Aqua Sana Longleat Forest is the latest Center Parcs spa to get a complete redesign to reflect its woodland surroundings. Eve Oxberry uncovers the challenges of completing such a largescale project
A
s the latest spa in Center Parcs’ portfolio to be redeveloped with its signature Forest Spa theme, Wiltshire’s Aqua Sana Longleat Forest has fast become the jewel in the holiday village group’s crown. Completed in January, the £6 million, 18-month project saw all existing areas of the spa reworked, plus an expansion to an upper floor and the addition of five more heat and water experiences, bringing the total to 25. The spa remained open throughout, creating a challenge in terms of minimising disruption for both guests and team. “Our implementation plan was cut into six phases, so each time, we would carve out an area and commit to creating a certain section,” says group spa manager Kay Pennington. “But it was meticulously done because we needed to ensure that while we were still open, guests had choice and that the range of facilities was balanced. So as we would take away a steam room, we would add a sauna, for example.” Longleat follows in the footsteps of Sherwood Forest, which was the first Aqua Sana spa to relaunch under the Forest Spa concept in 2017, and Ireland’s Longford Forest, which adopted the concept from its inception and opened in 2019.
Out of the woods All have multiple heat, water and relaxation zones inspired by the wellness concept of forest bathing. These maximise on Center Parcs’ woodland locations, both by bringing nature into the design through the use of local natural materials, and by creating as many options as possible for guests to look out at the grounds via features such as
panoramic windows and outdoor pools. The original concept was created by design agency SparcStudio, which stayed on-board to translate it for Longleat. All the Forest Spas have five zones – Nordic Forest, Hot Springs, Volcanic Forest, Forest Immersion and Treetop Nesting. While many of the facilities within these zones mirror those at Sherwood and Longford, there are two that have been created to be exclusive to Longleat – the Forest Cavern and Moonlight Steam Room. The latter creates an imposing effect, bathing users in cool light from a moonlight-effect centrepiece on the ceiling.
Cave dwelling However, it is the Forest Cavern that gives Longleat its real USP. “It’s a centrepiece,” says Pennington. “It could only be at Longleat as we’re in an area surrounded by caves.” The space is a tepidarium that has been designed to look like the interior of a cave, and SparcStudio director Neil Fairplay says it is among the features he’s most proud of. “From the outset, we imagined a double-height cave environment where part of the ceiling had collapsed, allowing natural light, trailing foliage and rain water to flood in,” he says. “It’s hard not to be wowed by this experience; I think we’ve really pulled it off.” Pennington adds: “The planning and the execution has been by far the best on this project because we’ve tested the formula.” There were, >
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however, some key learnings from the previous two that have impacted the design at Longleat. “We know what our most popular spaces are at Sherwood so we’ve increased capacity for some of those here,” says Pennington. “The Nordic Sauna, for example, has become one of our most iconic images – anyone who thinks of Aqua Sana will now think of the Nordic Sauna – so we’ve elongated that space and made sure it has an Previous page: The Forest Cavern. This page, clockwise from top: even better view. We also created extra volume in The new outdoor hot tubs; Scandinavian Snug; Vitalé Café Bar; Moonlight Steam Room; the Nordic Sauna some of the steam rooms so guests won’t be dissatisfied to find them full, and we’ve increased the capacity in circulation areas for people to wander and not feel The treatments space has also grown, with the congested, opening up the spa as much as we can.” addition of four rooms bringing the total to 26 and staff With the spa now holding up to 125 guests at a time (or numbers increasing to match. “We’ve been more aware 175 including the café, treatment and outdoor areas), a of recruitment because of the additional treatment sense of space and a clear journey became a major rooms, and we knew we needed more hosts to support priority for the project. Fairplay the guest journey so we’ve adds: “Prior to the refit, the guest recruited them as well,” says journey was disjointed with lots of Pennington. “When you’re Size: 23,917sq ft different levels, hidden spaces making such huge changes you Investment: £6m and underutilised areas. We always expect leakage – you Staff: 80, including managers, café focused hard on creating a expect some people to leave staff, spa attendants and therapists seamless and intuitive guest – but this time we’ve retained Spa zones: Five journey…to provide a more almost all our staff. We have a Spa experiences: 25 comprehensive and complete spa offer.” Now, all zones lead off from the central pool area, with a logical circuit that guests can follow.
72% retention rate at Aqua Sana, which we’re very proud of.” Pennington has also created an exclusive signature treatment for Longleat Forest, using Natural Spa Factory products. “Elemis and Decléor are still our main product houses but I wanted to show that we could create a treatment that’s Aqua Sana right the way through,” she says. “It’s very rural and woody here, so I wanted to use mud, clay and charcoal, which are also great for the skin’s mantle.” The two-hour Nature’s Ultimate Remedy ritual includes a rasul mud body mask, hot stone massage, charcoal face mask and more. Now Longleat is complete, it’s yet to be decided which of the group’s five villages will be next to get a refit. “There will definitely be enhancements and refurbishments to other locations soon,” says Pennington. “We’re doing budgets right now to pinpoint where we want to spend the money next but if I’m being totally honest I’m looking forward to some breathing space to focus on the day job – looking after the teams and keeping on top of innovations in new treatments and products.” PB
Treatment rooms: 26 Brands: Decléor, Elemis, Flexi Skin, Lava Shells, Made For Life, Mii, Natural Spa Factory
Full package In addition to the main wet spa, the adjoining Vitalé Café Bar has also had a makeover. A £340,000 investment has given it a forest-themed design, and a more high-end feel, including table service to alleviate the need to queue. “This is the first time we’ve brought the forest spa into the rest of the facilities and I thought it was so important as part of the launch,” says Pennington.
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WELLNESS NEXT LEVEL
TAKING TO THE
The Lamp Hotel
La Butte aux Bois Lanaken, Belgium
Norrkรถping, Sweden
SLEEP THERAPY Caesars JW Palace Bluewaters Marriott Miami Dubai, Turnberry Resort & UAE Spa USA
HYDROTHERAPY Bergamos Retreat
Friendswood, USA
INFRARED THERAPY The Breakers
Palm Beach, USA
TREATMENT TABLES Galgorm Resort & Spa Ballymena, Northern Ireland
QUARTZ THERAPY
PEDI/MANI CHAIRS
VISIT US ON STAND B51
EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
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www.gharieni.com
28/11/2019 14:59 17:08 18/12/2019
AWARDS THE DIXIE QUEEN YACHT, LONDON 29 MARCH 2020
CELEBRATING GLOBAL EXCELLENCE Book your tickets now at WORLDSPAWELLNESS.COM/AWARDSBOOK
The winners will be announced in a black-tie ceremony on 29 March 2020 at a brand new location, The Dixie Queen Yacht in London.
WITH THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS: CMJN
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World Spa & Wellness London 2020
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WORLD
Spa & Wellness
CONVENTION 2020
With a whole host of industry speakers, statistics and expert contacts you need to grow your spa business, the WORLD SPA & WELLNESS CONVENTION 2020 is not to be missed
F
ocusing on the challenges facing the spa and wellness industry, the World Spa & Wellness Convention (WSWC) 2020 will take place alongside Professional Beauty London on Sunday 29 to Monday 30 March. Once again, the WSWC programme is split in to two streams, the business of spa and wellness in spa, designed to give delegates even more opportunities to attend the relevant talks that will help them to stay competitive in the year ahead. Stream one: The business of spa: practical solutions to help tackle business issues. Stream two: Wellness in spa: a focus on client experience to boost client acquisition and retention.
KEYNOTE SPEAKERS Across the two days, both streams will include keynote speakers, expert panels and targeted advice for spa operators to enhance their business in 2020. Key speakers include industry experts such as Dr Bryan Williams, international speaker and author, on the importance of expecting excellence from yourself and your team.
PANELS Panel debates will also run in the programme, bringing together experts from across the field. Anna Bjurstam, vice president of spa and wellness at Six Senses; Kenneth Ryan, vice president of global operations at Marriot Spa; and Maggy Dunphy, head of spa and wellness at Hyatt, will be on the wellness in spa panel speaking about “The best wellness experiences for your spa”, chaired by Jean-Guy de Gabriac, founder of consultancy Tip Touch.
SITUATION ROOMS Both days will commence with “situation rooms”, allowing you to join a roundtable with an expert speaker on two key topics – how to ramp up a successful opening in your spa, and managing a strategic turnaround. Each is split into day spas, hotel spas and resort spas, so you can attend the most relevant session for your business. We ask four speakers what you can expect to hear from them on the day and why you need to confirm your ticket now. >
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World Spa & Wellness London 2020
88 DR BRYAN WILLIAMS, international speaker and author, will be a keynote speaker on Sunday, March 29 “This will be my first time attending this event and I’m very excited about it as the World Spa & Wellness Convention brings together the top leaders from both in and outside of Europe,” says Williams. “My purpose will be to help each attendee understand the importance of expecting excellence from themselves and their respective teams. A heavy emphasis will be on setting unapologetically high expectations and not tolerating mediocrity.”
ERICA D’ANGELO, director of wellbeing for Borgo Egnazia, will be speaking the Resort Spas Situation Room on Monday, March 30 “I believe that through my experience I can share the idea that building the success of a spa through a transformation and evolution of its concept can only be done by beginning with a clear identification of your business purpose: how are you growing, and what are you giving back to the world?”, she says. “Long before asking ourselves what we are doing and how are we doing it, businesses should ask themselves why they are doing it.” She continues, “This will be my first time attending the convention. However, I like that the programme is super intense with a selection of exceptional keynote speakers that one can choose according to the preferred topics.”
KENNETH RYAN, vice presient of global operations for Marriott Spas, will be speaking on Building Wellness Experiences for your Spa panel on Sunday, March 29 “As the largest operator of hospitality spas in the world, I will provide a transparent view into Marriott International’s spa business, allowing others to benchmark their practices against a global leader. By sharing, I aim to raise the level of us all as spa and wellness professionals driving a healthy industry,” says Ryan. “The WSWC is chaired by a tremendously strong leadership team that secures high-calibre speakers, attendees and leaders in the industry. The convention is truly international and, as a global leader, it gives me a worldwide view into the latest in the industry. It’s the culmination of networking with world-class spa professionals, the high-quality educational seminars on the latest trends and revenue opportunities, and the trade show floor where I am able to meet with partners and see their latest products and offerings.”
JEAN-PIERRE DE VILLIERS, peak performance coach and international speaker will be a keynote speaker on Monday, 30 March “I will be talking about organisational and personal leadership. Becoming a great leader will create ripples in your business, whether that is cash, influence or inspiration,” says De Villiers. His notion ‘Be your life’s CEO’, forms an acronym, which stands for certainty, energy and obsession – designed as a framework for business owners to revolutionise their mind-set and thrive. “Through this self-mastery, I will show you how to be more influential to your team, community and clients. Whatever happens in your mind follows in your reality. Get your head right and everything will follow,” he says. PB
The 2020 World Spa & Wellness Convention takes place at ExCeL London on March 29–30, alongside the Professional Beauty trade show. A two-day pass to the event is £297, while a one-day pass can be purchased for £225. Secure your ticket at worldspawellness.com/London THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS:
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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FOR REDUCTION OF CELLULITE The CooLifting gun projects onto the affected cellulite tissues a powerful high pressure CO2 flow a very low temperature and combines these actions with a huge concentration of atomized active elements.
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Tanning Trends
90
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Tanning Trends
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Glow
getters
Want to see increased revenue from your spray tan services? Amanda Pauley quizzes the UK’s top tanners on this year’s tanning trends and how to work them into your menu
W
ith spray tanning still one of the fastestgrowing areas in beauty, the sector is now entering the bronze age – a time where going for a tan is as crucial to clients’ monthly maintenance as a manicure or lash infill. But why is this? According to statistics from tanning brand St Tropez, nearly half of women (42%) tan because it makes them “look well” and “feel confident”, and it’s this bodyconfidence factor that salons need to tap into when
marketing their services. Team this with the latest trends and you’ll soon see your spray tan revenue increase. For advice on how to update your menu, we asked the UK’s leading celebrity tanners which looks will be hot this year, and it seems that express tans and formulations that aid skin health will be all the rage in 2020. Plus, with the BBC’s investigation last year into the rise of illegal tanning products, such as nasal sprays, we asked them for advice on how to warn clients about these controversial issues too. >
THE TANNING ELITE James Harknett has a tanning residency at the Away Spa at W Hotel in London and is global creative consultant for Fake Bake. He tanned more than 2,500 people in 2019.
Carly Hobbs is a spray tan expert and brand ambassador for professional tanning company Sienna X. Her celebrity clients include TV personalities Laura Whitmore and Claudia Winkleman.
Jules Heptonstall is a session tan expert, co-founder and creative director of organic tanning brand Isle of Paradise, and co-host of body confidence podcast Wobble.
Gary Lipman is chairman of The Sunbed Association UK and Ireland, managing director of Ergoline UK and board member of The Beauty Companies Association.
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Tanning Trends
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What will be the big spray tanning trends this year?
Which spray tanning looks do you think will fall out of favour?
Jules Von Heptonstall: Expect a glow like never before as 2020 is the year of the hydrated tan. Kiss goodbye to dull and lifeless matte tans and say hello to oxygen-boosting, skincare-compatible formulas. Invisible solutions, especially tanning waters, are proving extremely popular with clients because the lack of guide colour means no stained sheets. However, although they are better for clients, these formulations are harder for us experts to apply evenly, but we can adapt to life without a guide colour. Carly Hobbs: Clients want their tan not only to look flawless but to improve their skin texture too. Look out for solutions with added antioxidants from sources such as green tea and chicory root extract, which nourish and help skin cells fight the ageing effects of pollution, as well as top hydrators like coconut oil. The frequency of clients’ tanning is also changing. Once upon a time, spray tans were for special occasions, whereas now the year-round tan client is well and truly prominent in the professional beauty market. Tanning is now as big a focus as nails, brows and lashes, and clients are booking accordingly. This is an ideal marketing tool for salons when it comes to loyalty cards, block booking offers and repeat tan tent sessions. James Harknett: The desire for express treatments is also trending heavily. People are more time poor than ever and rinsing their tan within two hours is a huge attraction. Also, widen your solution range because it’ll increase your ability to colour-match clients’ skin tone in a world that’s all about customisation.
Heptonstall: The old-school way of tanning – using slow-drying formulations that are heavily scented with cherry and vanilla – will finally die out, with these thick and gloopy solutions being no more. Clients are exposed to so much of the beauty industry from social media that they now expect only the best, which is why we will also see the decline of contouring during treatment as customers embrace the body positivity movement. Hobbs: Tans that scream fake are edging out of favour too. People want to look healthy, fit and toned instead – like they’ve been away somewhere sunny rather than sporting a blocky, dark-bronzed look.
Have you noticed any regional differences in what clients want? Harknett: There are major differences in tanning regionally. I find in the North of the county there’s an increased appetite for darker tones throughout the year so they can always have that “out on the town” look, whatever the weather. However, in London the trend is that no one must know the tan is fake. It’s about coming up with an application that mimics the individual’s natural colour when they tan safely in the sun, and giving them a look of wellbeing rather than making them as dark as possible. Hobbs: I’ve found the most regional point of difference in treatments to be what clients like to >
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Tanning Trends
94 wear in the tanning tent. Paper pants are the chosen attire in the South, while the naked tan is most popular up North – these clients don’t want any white bits spoiling their swimwear looks, which now include high bikini and leg lines.
What innovations can we expect in the sunbed arena? Gary Lipman: The trend for hybrid tanning, which combines the benefits of UV light tanning and red light skincare with stimulated oxygen production, is set to be big this year. Ergoline has also launched a sunbed that uses UV light alongside blue light, which signals the presence of sunlight to the cells and initiates a faster tanning reaction without risk of burning. This year, The Sunbed Association UK and Ireland will also be launching a new benchmarking programme. Currently there are no available performance or industry average statistics, such as how per session and retail sales compare with the rest of the industry, or the daily, weekly and monthly numbers of sunbed use. These are questions that will help operators determine how their business is performing.
What are the controversial tanning trends that spray tanners need to warn clients about?
How can the industry do more this year to raise consumer awareness about safe UV tanning?
Harknett: Tanning pills, nasal sprays and injections – [which often contain melanotan, an unlicensed medication that has been reported to cause nausea and heart palpitations] – could interfere with the chemical balance in your client’s body. I’ve spent years warning customers about the risks involved to their health from harmful use. Hobbs: Fake tanning is a safe way to get your glow on, and furthermore, it improves the skin rather than damaging it. Edible tanning gummies, which promise to give clients a nice hue by digesting the sweet, are only likely to disappoint. They are not safe for clients, so assure your customers that seeing a tanning professional is the best way to get their tan fix.
Lipman: With consumers receiving so many mixed messages about UV exposure it’s important to educate clients about responsible tanning, whether on a sunbed or in the sunshine. All knowledgeable sunbed operators understand that responsible tanning by those able to tan is absolutely fine, it is burning that must always be avoided. Having properly trained staff who know how to screen for contraindications to tanning and advise customers on responsible tanning programmes is just part of delivering the experience. Engaging with customers and having the confidence from training to answer any questions is an important element of this. PB
TANNING INNOVATIONS AT PB LONDON The industry’s leading tanning brands will be at Professional Beauty London on March 29–30 showcasing their latest innovations. Get your free ticket at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/London
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96 MoroccanTan MoroccanAccelerated MoroccanAccelerated is a 16% DHA solution that gives a rich, more intense application and can be washed off in just 30 minutes – perfect for time-poor clients. The non-sticky formula is infused with argan oil, a probiotic blend, boosted melanin technologies, and a 48-hour hydration complex to deliver a surge of moisture to the skin for a healthy and even glow. The tan will continue to develop over the next 12 to 24 hours. The mixed-blend base is complementary to both warm and cooler skin tones, vegan-friendly and suitable for all skin types. Trade: £54.95 for 1L 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
Golden
touch
Six of the latest tanning solutions to invest in to help you deliver a flawless glow
Sienna X Ultra Dark Self Tan Lotion The brand says this is its “darkest tan yet”, giving tan lovers the chance to maintain a deep glow in between professional appointments. Formulated with Q10 and shea butter to hydrate skin for a smooth finish, and infused with lemon peel extract to reduce the appearance of cellulite, this lotion glides on for an easy, streak-free application. For an ultra-dark finish, leave the formula to develop for up to eight hours, while for a subtle glow, reduce the development time to one to four hours. The product is vegan-friendly and infused with a coconut and vanilla scent. Trade: £12.48 for 200ml 0333 600 1200 sienna-x.co.uk
Crazy Angel Tanning Drops Crazy Angel has updated the packaging of its popular Tanning Drops to reflect “the new look and feel of the brand”. The refreshed imagery shows a model rocking a natural-looking tan on the beach to help “take customers to a sunnier climate while transforming their skin,” says the brand. The product is great for clients to use to customise their skincare products and it contains ingredients with antioxidant properties to fight free radicals and damage caused by UV rays. To use, mix five to 12 drops into your moisturiser or serum and apply evenly to skin. The more drops you add, the deeper the tan. Trade: £7.45 for 30ml 0845 180 1241 (Professional Beauty Systems) crazy-angel.co.uk
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Tanning
97
St Tropez Tan Remover Mousse
Vita Liberata Beauty Blur Sunless Glow
The most recent addition to the brand’s prep and maintain family of products is Tan Remover Mousse – a foamingtexture formulation that removes “even the darkest tan in just minutes”. Infused with detoxifying cotton and yoghurt extract to remove tough tans without being harsh on the skin and enriched with probiotics to promote the beneficial micro-organisms on the skin to keep it healthy, it’s an ideal product for your kit bag. The mousse is suitable for all skin types and is sulphate- and paraben-free. RRP: £14.50 for 200ml 020 7257 2400 sttropeztan.co.uk
Beauty Blur Sunless Glow is a multitasking primer and self-tanning skin tone optimiser, which enhances any complexion for a gorgeous glow. It can be used on its own or worn under make-up and the formula contains key ingredients Ecocert DHA, a self-tanning active sourced from verified suppliers; organic rosehip oils, to promote cell detoxification; and anti-ageing peptides, which kick start the production of collagen and elastin to plump and firm skin. It’s available in three shades: Latte Light, Latte and Latte Dark. RRP: £29.95 for 30ml 028 9334 4411 vitaliberata.com
Norvell UVC Cosmo Launching this month, UVC Cosmo is a hybrid tanning solution formulated with the brand’s popular Dark and Venetian base blends to give a boost to clients’ skin colour. The brand says the solution is its fastest-drying formula yet and is enriched with micro-nutrient technology and tomato, watermelon and cranberry extracts to deliver a flawless tan, as well as keep skin hydrated. It is paraben-, gluten- and sulphate-free, suitable for vegans and fragranced with “the essence of vanilla summer”. Trade: £18 for 8floz or £54 for 34floz 020 8498 7284 norvelltanning.co.uk
TANNING INNOVATIONS AT PB LONDON The industry’s leading tanning brands will be at Professional Beauty London on March 29–30 showcasing their latest innovations. Get your free ticket at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/London
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Hot Topic
99
HOW CAN
beauty therapists AND MEDICS
work better
TOGETHER?
Experts Dr Sophie Shotter and Louise Tilden discuss the key problems facing medics and beauty therapists, and the steps we can take to resolve them
T
here has long been somewhat of a divide between beauty therapists and medical professionals. There are varying opinions about who should or shouldn’t be able to perform injectables, and on the flipside, some therapists have felt discredited when seeking advice from medics. So, how can we bridge the gap between the professions? Two successful business owners share their thoughts on the matter and how they propose beauty therapists and medical professionals can support one another. >
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“ Set up a referral partnership with a medical professional” Dr Sophie Shotter is medical director and founder of Illuminate Skin Clinic in Kent. She is also a member of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine “I have worked closely with some excellent beauty therapists during my career in medical aesthetics. These relationships have been built on mutual respect for what the other brings to the table. As a doctor I have in-depth anatomy knowledge, extensive diagnostic skills and an ability to think laterally in an emergency. I am able to prescribe medication for treatment and also for complications and I can provide support and advice to nonmedical members of my team. The therapists I have worked with have a passion for skin, excellent interpersonal skills and provide a holistic touch, meaning our patients benefit from a 360-degree approach to their care. “I have become increasingly concerned by the number of beauty therapists choosing to perform injectable treatments. My experienced medical colleagues and I still have a degree of anxiety every time we inject a face. That is despite my five years at medical school, six years of NHS work in anaesthetics and intensive care medicine, additional university degrees, six
days a week of injecting experience, annual cadaveric workshops and more than 150 hours of CPD in aesthetics per year. It worries me that people are categorising injectables as a ‘beauty treatment’. “An artistic eye is part of performing good treatments, but it is by no means all that counts. Every time I inject a patient, I’m injecting a substance that carries significant risks such as allergy, infection, vascular occlusion and blindness. As a doctor, I understand those risks, know how to minimise them and how to treat them should they happen. I’m able to carry and stock the emergency medications needed and issue prescriptions or patients as necessary. “At my clinic, our therapists perform an important role in supporting my work and will often help me during complications work. Unfortunately, I do a lot of pro bono corrective work to help victims of ‘botched’ procedures, many of which have been performed by non-medics who haven’t been able to identify when there is a serious problem that needs addressing. “I would urge us all to value and respect each other’s contributions to this industry, but to work together and within our own professional boundaries. If we can do this then we can deliver incredible results for patients by combining our different skill sets. Just as I’m not the best person to deliver a medical-grade facial, neither is a beauty therapist the best person to inject filler, in my opinion. “If there is a procedure that would be better in the hands of my plastic surgical colleagues then I would refer it to them, and I would encourage any beauty therapists thinking of going down this path to instead set up a mutually beneficial referral partnership with a great medical professional near to them.”
An artistic eye is part of performing good treatments, but it is by no means all that counts
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“ We need more support getting GP consent for treatments” Louise Tilden is owner of The Garden Room salon in Taunton, where she has grown a loyal client base over the past six years “I want to address the elephant in the room – the frustration beauty therapists face when trying to obtain GP consent so clients can have a treatment. When we train in beauty therapy, we have it drummed into us to seek a doctor’s consent for any medical condition that is a contradiction for treatment and to get assurance that it’s a suitable service for the customer to have. “For example, ITEC-trained therapists are told type 1 diabetes, heart conditions, epilepsy, cancer, pregnancy and high blood pressure are all considered total contraindications to massage. I support the notion that we as beauty therapists are not medically trained and it is not our job to make clinical decisions. Not ever. “However, it’s a battle sometimes getting cooperation from medical practitioners without our industry feeling discredited in the process. Let me give you an example. Locally, I’ve had one surgery point blank refuse my client a letter of consent, even if they paid for it, touting, ‘we don’t offer consent for beauty treatments’. “How do we, as an industry, get through to medical professionals so they understand that we ask for consent to ensure the wellbeing of the client (aka their patient) and to ensure their suitability? Regardless of our personal thoughts on the matter, beauty therapists are not allowed to treat clients without the letter. Our hands are tied. However, I think GP surgeries that charge £30 per letter, when they could simply have a few generic standard letters on their system, are absolutely shocking. “The resistance beauty therapists get from GPs means that clients usually cancel their booking because they don’t want to pay or are just fearful of asking. It’s surely for the best of the client’s wellbeing that
they enjoy some me-time. Yet, others have experienced completely different reactions. I’ve had clients report that GPs have laughed and replied, ‘we’ve never been asked for a letter of consent before and how ridiculous, of course you can have a massage’. “My best advice to other beauty therapists is take the time to read your policies and ask questions. It would be great if we could have the support of the medical profession once and for all. We should work together for the good of the client/patient. Perhaps the onus could be on us to develop relationships with the practice managers in our local GP surgeries as I genuinely believe they don’t understand the importance of the consent. “Maybe it’s time for us to speak to the British Medical Association or local MPs to ask for their support, or maybe a committee within parliament could be formed to pass some clear legislation on the matter. Whatever the answer, let’s try and get the conversation started.” PB
The battle is getting cooperation from medical practitioners without feeling discredited in the process
Disclaimer: the thoughts and opinions expressed belong solely to the authors and are not the view of Professional Beauty or Trades Exhibitions Limited
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Promotional Feature
103
salon
advertising MYTHS
busted
It’s important that you publicise your salon’s services but there are advertising rules to abide by. NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall explains the law
W
ith the busy Christmas period over for another year, now is a good time to step up a gear and attract new clients into your salon. Advertising is a great way to publicise the services you offer, but it’s vital to ensure your ads don’t break the law.
Get the basics right “The law says that your marketing and advertising must be legal, decent, honest and truthful,” says National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) chief executive Hilary Hall. “Your descriptions of products and services must be accurate and your pricing must be clear and transparent.” Breaking advertising laws can have serious consequences, warns Hall, including fines or even imprisonment.
Salon advertising rules “You must be particularly careful when advertising beauty products and services as the laws covering this are very strict,” says Hall. “For example, any claims you make must be backed by reliable evidence and you must not use confusing scientific terms to describe common conditions. “In addition, you cannot claim that certain treatments, such as electrolysis or laser hair reduction, are painless, and you must not claim that a cosmetic product can cure a medical condition.”
Skin treatment advertising You cannot advertise botulinum toxin products or use their brand names (such as Botox, Dysport, Vistabel, Bocouture, and Azzalure), warns Hall. “This is because they are prescription-only medicines and cannot be advertised to the public. Some beauty salons have been caught out by this rule. “You can advertise that you provide ‘a consultation for the treatment of wrinkles’ – but you must not make any reference to the product itself,” explains Hall.
Body image and gender stereotypes If you use images of people in your adverts, you must ensure that they do not look underweight or unhealthy, says Hall. “You must also be careful not to suggest that someone’s happiness depends on having an ‘ideal’ body shape or certain physical features. “In addition, new rules introduced in June 2019 say that adverts must not include gender stereotypes that are likely to cause harm or serious/widespread offence.” Adverts can still show, for example, women doing housework and men doing DIY, but you must not suggest that certain activities are only carried out by either men or women.
Free gifts, special offers and discounts You cannot claim something is free if your client has to pay anything other than the cost of collecting it or having it delivered. “In addition, you must not claim that the cost of a product or service has been greatly reduced if it hasn’t, and you must not falsely claim that a lower price will only be available for a limited time,” explains Hall. NHBF members can download a free in-depth guide to advertising law at nhf.info/advertising-guide
The NHBF For less than 80p a day, the NHBF will help you boost your beauty business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. Find out more at nhf.info Join the NHBF before the end of February 2020 and quote PBF25 to get £25 off your membership fee
Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965 professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Health KICK
E
Georgia Seago talks to Glasshouse Retreat co-founder Joy Jarvis about how she hopes to reinvent weight-loss retreats for a new decade
stablishing Glasshouse Retreat wasn’t exactly a natural career progression for owners Joy and Brian Jarvis. The couple are property builders by profession – under Jarvis Development Group – but Joy’s passion for her vegetarian, alcohol-free and exercise-packed lifestyle eventually led to the birth of the Essex-based weight-loss and detox retreat in September 2019. “I’ve always eaten well and exercised. I’ve been going to spas and health retreats for years, and those places were all lovely in their own way but my friends and I would leave pounds heavier than when we arrived because of the food; things like freshly baked breads with an array of butters and cheeses for breakfast,” says Jarvis. “You do eat more than you should at lunchtime and then there’s three courses in the evening. It’s always been an area that I’ve found to be lacking at other retreats and it’s been my dream to be able to do it my way.”
Cleanse and refresh The food is a focal point at Glasshouse, with the menu plans aiming to turn raw, plant-based cuisine from flavourless to culinary creations. Raw food cook Miguel Gouveia has created tasty, nutritionally balanced options to be tailored to guests’ needs, depending on their plan and length of stay. “Five to seven days is the optimal amount of time if you want to detox, and I think once people realise that we’re here, they’ll come two or three times a year for that length of time,” says Jarvis. There are two menu plans for guests wishing to complete a detox – the Weight Loss Diet, consisting of three plant-based
meals a day; and the Pure Juicing Diet, a vitamin– and mineral-rich juice for breakfast and lunch followed by a plant-based meal for dinner, recommended for more intense weight loss. “We’ve also got the Equilibrium Diet, which is for people who don’t want to lose weight and who are generally healthy but maybe they’re really stressed with work or have been eating too much sugar, for example, and want to rebalance through their diet,” explains Jarvis. Guests on the Equilibrium plan eat three plant-based meals a day billed as “healthy, relaxed and detoxifying”. No caffeine, alcohol or animal products are served at the retreat. There’s a strong focus on getting guests to their optimum health – or at least firmly on the right path – while on a retreat at Glasshouse. Every guest’s journey starts with a thorough consultation in which they discuss their medical history, goals and concerns with a wellness consultant, who completes a detailed analysis using Tanita body-composition scales.
Fighting fit This forms the basis of the guest’s tailored stay, with specific exercise, nutrition and treatment recommendations. Aside from the carefully planned food, guests are expected to spend a lot of their time exercising, partaking as much as is possible
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(and safe for each individual to do so) in weekly programmes filled with yoga, fitness classes and sessions in the Matrixequipped gym. “Many of the retreats I’ve been to myself didn’t have a gym,” says Jarvis. “They would just have a pool and some sort of dance or fitness studio. I also needed enough land here because walking is very important, as well as the peaceful atmosphere that is created by being surrounded by this much land.” The seven acres of Essex countryside that enclose the property are incorporated into every guest’s programme with a suggested hour-long guided walk in the early morning.
Time to spa
as are a comprehensive menu of waxing and threading services, henna brows, lash extensions and lifts, and nail treatments. Guests can also book life coaching and meditation classes and cryotherapy sessions. Another core pillar in Glasshouse’s wellness philosophy, the retreat’s Life Cube 2 cryotherapy chamber by manufacturer Cosmetic Solutions features on every guest’s programme as long as they aren’t contraindicated. “When you’re building something from the ground up, you have to look at what’s out there at the moment as well as Opened: September 2019 trying to anticipate what’s going Size: 22,000sq ft to be the next big thing, so the Staff: 26 cryo chamber is us futureBrands: Elemis, CACI, proofing ourselves,” says Jarvis. Dermalux, Gelish, Hydrofirm, Lipofirm Pro
“There is a recommended programme that we would like people to take,” explains Jarvis. “You get up in the morning, have your hot lemon and water, walk for an hour and then either have treatments in the morning and do your exercise in the afternoon, or vice versa. We encourage everybody to go to as many classes as they can, and if there’s another walk in the afternoon I would advise doing another one.” Though by no means an afterthought, the spa facilities at Glasshouse are more of a complementary addition than the focal point of the concept. The 12m heated pool and salt-block sauna sit below a glass ceiling flanked by relaxation beds. The facilities are also available in day spa packages with treatments and fitness classes. Residential and nonresidential guests are split between two treatment areas – the eight central treatment rooms and separate Studio Spa with three rooms and two nail service stations. Speaking about the treatment offer, Jarvis says: “Elemis is our main product house. I’ve always liked the brand, and the products are plant-based and largely vegan.” Lava Shells massages and Dermalux LED facial add-ons are also on offer,
Devices on deck
Celebrated for its myriad purported benefits, including fat burning, soothing muscular injuries and cellular regeneration, the Life Cube 2 chamber maintains a constant temperature of between -85 and -110C. Jarvis also invested in the Lipofirm Pro bodysculpting device from Pollogen after being particularly impressed with its results. “My son had a 35-minute session on the highest setting around his middle and afterwards I couldn’t believe it. It was astonishing, it really does work,” she says. Jarvis has high hopes that her personal approach to healthy living will resonate, and that guests will find lasting success sparked by their stay: “People are realising how important it is to look after yourself, that this is all good for you. I’ve just tried to do it right.” PB
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SET YOUR STUDENTS UP FOR CAREER SUCCESS What’s on for colleges on Monday 30th March
Are you bringing a group of students? Email colleges@professionalbeauty.co.uk to register a group
EDUCATION FORUM Discuss with leading employers and specialists how to get students into the industry INSPIRATION & TRAINING Seminars for just £1 per session for lecturers and students DO YOUR STUDENTS HAVE WHAT IT TAKES? Win £1,000 by entering your students into the College Cup EXCLUSIVE LECTURER BENEFITS Free refreshments and drinks reception in the lounges DISCOUNTED COACH HIRE 50% off coach hire, courtesy of
Register for free tickets at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/collegetickets #PBLondon @pro_beauty ProfessionalBeautyUK pro_beauty01
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Nail Notes
107
TRUE to
form
W
Award-winning nail tech Katie Barnes reveals how you can customise and apply forms correctly on both basic and extreme nail shapes
hen creating nail shapes – from square, almond and ballerina, to the more extreme butterfly, stiletto and razor – the perfect form fit is essential for an attractive and long-lasting enhancement. A key component of the perfect form fit is the necessary tailoring to ensure it sits seamlessly with the natural nail – a c curve can be created with form fit and the requirement for pinching in salon and extreme nails can be eliminated. If the requirement for form tailoring isn’t respected then several issues can occur, such as gaps that cause contact allergies, a wide enhancement result and even premature service breakdown. While each finger is different and requires tailoring to perfectly fit the natural nail, the rules remain the same for all shapes.
Respect the rules There are two important components to form tailoring. The first is cutting around the free edge zone to ensure the form fits snugly under the natural free edge. The easiest way to see where adjustments need to be made is to fit the form in the correct position and then draw around the free edge shape with a white gel pen. This technique eliminates guess work, saves time and can be used regardless of the natural nail length – it’s also particularly beneficial for nail biters and those with uneven nails. To provide a smooth and precise cut, use sharp and thin curved blade scissors as this will prevent tearing and mistakes to the paper. The second adjustment required is relief cuts, which allow you to close the nail form securely without issue.
When the form is placed under the free edge, you’ll notice that it provides a flat surface to create your enhancement. For both strength and aesthetics, a c curve is required, with the form curving around the nail symmetrically. If you attempt to close the form without making relief cuts then the paper will crinkle. Using your white gel pen, mark where the corner points of the natural nail free edge are, then, use form tailoring scissors at a 45% angle to cut approximately a 1cm-long cut away from the free edge, which will allow you to neatly close your form together more tightly.
Pinpoint accuracy When creating extreme advanced shapes for photographic or live competitions, such as Professional Beauty’s Nail Competitions, these shapes must deliver an elongated and well-designed result, and the first step to achieving this is all in the form fit, with no pinching required. You can’t hide any mistakes when it comes to creating extreme shapes so time and precision are paramount. Use the above tips to achieve the desired elegance. If you master the foundation then all other steps will follow with ease. PB
Katie Barnes is a PB Award-winning tech and owner of Katie Barnes Training Academy in Warwickshire. See her talk about this subject on the “How to” programme at Professional Beauty London on Monday, March 30, at 11am. Book now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/education professionalbeauty.co.uk
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BECOME A MEMBER OF THE UK’S LEADING MAGAZINE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY, NAIL AND SPA INDUSTRIES
Join us as a PB Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include: Annual print and digital subscription Access to membership lounges at Professional Beauty Shows Discounted Professional Beauty Insurance Plus much, much more
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Operational Advice
109
Thekey
to
staff
RETENTION Millennials have changed the recruitment process, with money no longer the driver for loyalty. Fiona Fowley shares her tips for keeping good therapists in this new era
O
ur industry has grown dramatically. The number of salons has mushroomed, as has the number of other outlets including hotel spas, nail and brow bars, and skin clinics. However, the number of therapists coming through the education system has not kept pace with the industry’s expansion, nor are colleges making much headway in producing employer-ready professionals. Some gaps are being filled by a proliferation of new academies offering short courses and online modules, but this is mostly specialists working from home offering a single treatment. The new dynamic is now clear – it is a buyer’s market. Even mediocre therapists have their pick and once in the door they have a very different outlook on the commitments involved in a beauty career. Many of the current generation of millennial therapists see nine months as a long stint in a role and can get their heads turned easily by another job just around the corner.
Count the cost The rate of staff turnover can be expensive and disruptive. When a member of staff leaves it can be unsettling for the rest of the team, especially if that person works their notice and is talking to your other therapists about their great new position and the benefits that come with it. Continually changing staff also means that you have not got therapists who are building up a steady clientele for your salon, and you’re not getting the return on investment you have put into that person’s training either. When they leave, you’re back to wasting precious time on recruiting, so the circle continues. Of course, this has a huge impact on business sales and profitability. If you’re spending too much time recruiting it’s hard to devote time to driving other areas of
the salon forward. Although there’s nothing we can do at our level to bring more high-quality candidates into the industry, salons can adapt their recruitment and retention process to the reality of the market. One method that I’ve found effective is to develop a work culture that is sympathetic to the lifestyles and aspirations of the contemporary workforce. This means having a business model that can cope with a new style of employee in terms of training needs and longevity.
Incentives to stay At Zen Lifestyle, our therapists can specialise in treatments so they get really good at a particular service. This improves the return on training investment and means new recruits don’t have to be trained in everything from the start. However, it’s a good idea to have employment contracts that protect your business from short-stay employees who soak up a lot of initial training costs and then decide to move on – in ours this includes withholding of wages to cover any losses. I’ve also moved much of our training online and encourage therapists to do the reading and video modules in advance of internal treatment workshops to save on time and cost. To incentivise longevity among your therapists, you could also give loyal employees more specialist training opportunities, better shifts and additional days of annual leave as a reward. PB
Fiona Fowley is director of salon group Zen Lifestyle, which won both the Large Beauty Salon and Boutique Beauty Salon of the Year awards at the 2018 Professional Beauty Awards.
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HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY BALL Monday 2 March 2020 6.45pm till 11.45pm
Atmosphere 28 Millbank Tower, 21-24 Millbank Westminster, London SW1P 4QP
Price includes: Hair & Beauty goody bag Sparkling wine on arrival Two course dinner, coffee and petits fours
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To purchase tickets: T: 01234 831888 W: hairandbeautycharity.org/ball E: info@hairandbeautycharity.org @hbcharityuk
111 Treatment News
Pevonia No-Rinse Body Wrap Treatment Addressing concerns over worldwide water wastage, spa brand Pevonia has developed a suite of no-rinse body wraps. The Cactus & Agave Vita-Repair Body Wrap offers anti-inflammatory benefits, helping to reduce rough patches and dryness, while the Crepe-No-More De-Ageing Body Wrap counteracts skin crepiness and uneven texture. The 50-minute treatment begins with a full-body exfoliation using a body brush to remove dead skin cells, before a plastic sheet is loosely wrapped around the client’s back, legs, arms, stomach and chest, and a blanket placed on top for warmth. Pevonia cocoon massage movements, as well as a scalp massage, are then performed for 20 minutes, before the body wrap is removed. Pevonia recommends charging between £60 and £80 for the 50-minute treatment (depending on location). Call the brand on 01449 727000
GAME
changers
A new holistic wellbeing brand and a one-of-a-kind no-rinse body wrap treatment take centre stage this month
This month we tried… Elim MediHeel Pedicure The lowdown: Elim’s medical-grade pedicure targets dry, hard skin on the feet with chemical exfoliation. With less focus on manual exfoliation, the alpha hydroxy acid takes the hard work out of filing feet for a speedy, yet effective, treatment. The treatment was combined with Bio Sculpture’s hard gel on the toes. Both brands are distributed by Re:New Beauty. The experience: My tech Paris Thomson started the treatment by trimming my nails and pushing my cuticles back, before applying Elim MediHeel Alpha Hydroxy Acid Exfoliant onto the hardest parts of my soles and leaving for 10 minutes. Once it was removed, any leftover tough skin was then effortlessly scraped off and softened with a pumice stone. An exfoliating scrub was then buffed into my feet to neutralise the acid before being soaked in a footbath. Once my feet were dry, a cream rich in vitamin C and E was massaged in to nourish the skin. My toenails were then filed and shaped before being painted with two coats of Bio Sculpture hard gel Ivory Beige.
A clear gel top coat was applied alongside a nourishing cuticle oil. To finish, my feet were misted with MediHeel Rejuvenating Gold Spritz, leaving a subtle golden shimmer. The whole treatment took around 60 minutes. The verdict: My worn-out feet were restored and left significantly smoother, with results lasting up to six weeks. The treatment itself strikes the perfect balance between being results-driven and relaxing, with the effective ingredients and invigorating foot massage. The Bio Sculpture gel-polish is also glossy and extremely hard-wearing. Business benefits: The alpha hydroxy acids effortlessly remove hard skin and calluses from the feet. Not only is it quick and simple to use, but it’s also cost-effective, saving time from exhaustive foot filing. Retailing is made easy with effective products, which are sold in some of the best spas and salons around the world. Tried by Eleanor Vousden Elim recommends charging the same amount as your usual pedicure offering. Call the brand on 03333 111 555 professionalbeauty.co.uk
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112 Treatment News
Sensory Retreats Mandala Flow Massage Sensory Retreats is the latest wellbeing brand from Shared Beauty Secrets, the UK distributor of massage treatment brand Lava Shells and founder of Kokolokahi. The Sensory Retreats brand is launching a range of holistic treatments that use natural ingredients and massage techniques combined with mindful experiences. The first to launch is the Mandala Flow Massage – a multi-sensory ritual that blends Eastern and Western techniques with the “power of flowing”. Integrating sound with aromatherapy oils such as lavender and peppermint, the mind is guided into a meditative state before the back, shoulders, legs and scalp are massaged with effleurage, drainage and bear walk techniques. Upon completion, clients are gently awoken with herbal tea. This treatment is currently available exclusively at Stoke Park Spa in Buckinghamshire. Other treatments available set to launch include the Divine Escape Massage. Shared Beauty Secrets recommends charging £140 for the 85-minute Mandala Flow Massage. Call the brand on 01295 235511
This month we tried… Bespoke Oxyjet Skin Rejuvenation Treatment The lowdown: Well-known for its high-tech oxygen system, Oxyjet revitalises dull complexions using pulsed oxygen pressure to deliver active ingredients deep into the skin. It is described as a skin treatment, not a facial, with the protocol tailored to each client’s skincare needs and featuring a range of advanced elements on top, such as LED light therapy, lymph drainage and microdermabrasion. The experience: I had my treatment with therapist Alice Spice at the Aurora Wellbeing Spa at Park Plaza County Hall in Waterloo, London. After double cleansing, Spice applied an enzyme peel to resurface my skin, which was left on for five minutes, during which she performed a hand and arm massage. Then, the treatment was ramped up a gear with a three-step oxygen approach. First came Oxycool – a pulsed oxygen pressure injection which shoots a purifying concentrate serum into the skin to tighten cells and calm redness, which I was suffering from on my chin due to congestion. It was cold on the skin but by no means uncomfortable. This was followed by Oxytone – a poly-rotational device head that works to tone the facial muscles using a lifting action, all the while pulsing oxygen into the skin to deliver actives further into the epidermis. The last element was Oxyspray – an oxygen fluid which was sprayed onto the skin in a sweeping motion. It contains moisturising and anti-inflammatory active ingredients to further refresh skin, after which a Cooling Mask was applied to enhance the results. Spice also added an LED element to the treatment to further tackle my congestion. She used the Bio2Light LED Light Therapy Hood for 10 minutes, using a mixture of blue light to minimise the inflammation
and red light to boost collagen production. The treatment finished with application of an eye oil, moisturiser and SPF. The verdict: My skin looked and felt incredible afterwards. I had such a healthy glow, the congestion on my chin had minimised and everything looked tighter thanks to the lifting action in treatment. Business benefits: Although oxygen facials have been around for a while, few are as advanced as Oxyjet. The brand’s different ways of using oxygen to smartly deliver actives deeper into the skin is a great point of difference to have on your treatment menu, and because the protocol is tailored every time, the experience feels really personalised. Tried by Amanda Pauley Oxyjet recommends charging from £85 to £195 for the 80-minute treatment (depending on location and the elements included in the treatment). Call the brand on 01775 722243
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Lash Perfect Lash Perfect has introduced a light and fluffy new style to its “In a Strip” range, which creates 3D eyelash extension effects. The new British In a Strip lashes are longline, reusable, and available in black or brown. The lashes can be moulded to the shape of the eye due to their flexible band and are easily applied with glue. The styles are intended to be suitable for older clients due to their lightweight nature and natural look. Trade: £8.95 each 020 8500 9028 (The Eyelash Design Company) lashperfect.co.uk
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Skin
SOLUTIONS
Innovations in skin science top the bill in this month’s launches, and we also check out some new nail collections
Murad Murad has extended its preventative and corrective range, Retinol Youth Renewal Collection, following the popularity of the existing Retinol Youth Renewal Serum. The two new products are an Eye Serum, which contains cotton wool grass extract and marine kelp complex, and a hydrating Night Cream, which includes niacinamide and picolinamide. All products use retinol tri-active technology to minimise lines, even skin tone and boost radiance. RRP: £65 for Eye Serum; £70 for Night Cream 0844 472 7050 murad.co.uk
Medik8 The cosmeceutical brand has created its first lip balm. Named Mutiny, the product is squalene-based and has been formulated to replenish lost lipids and support the natural healing of chapped lips. Unlike many other lip balms, it does not rely on occlusives such as petrolatum, which can form a fake barrier. Instead, Mutiny is a gel-like balm intensified with plant-sourced sea buckthorn oil, which infuses the top layers of the lip skin with omega oils. RRP: £19 020 8712 6020 medik8.com
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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116 New Products
Sienna X Sienna X has launched a wide range of new products and kits. The Deluxe One Of All Retail Package kit (pictured) includes several products, such as Gradual Self Tan Lotion, Sleep Q10 Self Tan Tinted Mist and Eraser Self Tan Remover and Mitt. The Spray Tan Enhance Retail Pack kit also includes these products, as well as Gradual Untinted Self Tan Rose Water, Skin Finishing Illuminating Mist and more. Also new are two sachets: Exfoliating + Priming Scrub and Ultra Dark Self Tan Lotion. Trade: £150 for Deluxe kit; £185 for Spray Tan Enhance kit; 99p per scrub sachet; £1.50 per tan sachet 0333 600 1200 sienna-x.co.uk
CND Five classic shades from the past 40 years are coming back with the CND Shellac Iconic Collection. Available are classic Company Red; metallic shimmer Satin Sheets; semi-sheer Pointe Blanc; Bordeaux shade Spike; and the bold blue and purple Jiggy. Alongside the range is a new nail art menu, showcasing different styles including a romantic heart or modern marble for nail techs to try out. Trade: £13.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
Caudalie Vinosculpt, the new lift and firm body cream from Caudalie, acts simultaneously on four key areas: the arms, bust, stomach and buttocks. Combining iris extract and grapeseed polyphenols along with shea butter from Burkina Faso and grape seed oil from France and Spain, Vinosculpt protects and nourishes the skin. With an orange blossom scent and a nonsticky, whipped texture, the cream is suitable for use on all skin types, including dry and sensitive. RRP: £27 020 7720 7111 uk.caudalie.com
Gellux Salon System’s Gellux is set to release a line of eight bright and pastel gel shades for Spring, including pale pink Daisy Chain; hot red Proper Poppy; lilac Watch Me Bloom; fuchsia Bizzie Lizzie; peachy nude Life’s A Breeze; coral Best Buds; dark nude Hippie Heaven; and pearlescent pink Oopsie Daisy. Salon System’s Gellux expert, Julie-Anne Larivière, says: “These shades are the best complement to the bohemian chic look that’s set to be very on-trend this season.” Trade: £11.95 each 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Barber Pro In collaboration with cancer charity Look Good Feel Better, Barber Pro has created a limitededition gift set. This will include a collection of its existing products, including the CBD Oil Mask and the Post Shave Cooling Mask, both of which have anti-ageing benefits, as well as two Under Eye Masks. For every sale, Barber Pro will donate 10% of the RRP to Look Good Feel Better with the goal of raising £30,000 by the end of 2020. Trade: £7.48 01273 323232 beautypro.com
Inika Mineral make-up brand Inika is launching two organic primers: Pure Perfection and Matte Perfection, which use the Kangaroo Paw plant to improve links between young skin cells, enhance the quality of the skin’s protective layer, and aid its firming and regenerating action. Also new this month is Full Coverage Concealer, available in five shades with a creamy, buildable formula. Key ingredients include sunflower seed and sweet almond oils and shea butter. Trade: £17.50 for 30ml Pure Perfection and Matte Perfection primers; £12.50 per concealer 020 3713 0149 inikaorganic.com
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Germaine de Capuccini
Artistic Nail Design
Germaine de Capuccini has developed the Led-Xpert Mask, which uses photo-biological therapy through High Density Diodes (HDD) to stimulate tissue regeneration. There are four defocused LED colours with different benefits to the skin: red promoting rejuvenation, purple tackling imperfections, green counteracting hyperpigmentation, and orange reducing sensitivity. The mask is best used in combination with other Germaine de Capuccini products, and offers a noninvasive and pain-free treatment. Trade: launch offer £2,495 (January to March); £2,955 thereafter 0845 600023 germaine-de-capuccini.co.uk
Artistic Nail Design has launched two new correction gel colours. Pink Concealer offers a look of full-coverage in a natural hue, while Translucent Pink can be used to disguise surface imperfections with a bright pink glow. Both strengthen and promote nail growth, and correct grooves, ridges and other nail issues. They have a brush-on formula and can be removed by soaking. These gels, along with Artistic’s Original Clear Correction Gel, can be worn alone or under other Artistic glosses and shades. Trade: £17.95 each 0333 000 2100 (Louella Belle) artisticnaildesign.com professionalbeauty.co.uk
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New Products
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Clarins
Apraise Apraise has launched Eye Serum, which soothes and helps to lift the upper eyelid with botanical extracts, as well as hyaluronic acid to give clients’ eyes a refreshing boost. The serum has been created to complement the existing Eye Cream, which uses white flower extracts and caffeine to increase circulation, and reduce dark circles and under eye puffiness. Trade: £9.20 0141 812 5000 apraise.co.uk
Nutri-Lumiére, the latest range from Clarins, has been developed to illuminate the skin of women in their 60s, with four new products. Combining extracts from both the flower and fruit of a horse chestnut tree, along with wakame extract, harungana and hibiscus sabdariffa flower acids, the ingredients help lift and replenish skin for a smoothing effect, as well as protecting from harmful environmental effects. The range includes Day Cream, Day Emulsion, Night Cream and Treatment Essence. RRP: £90 for Day Cream or Day Emulsion; £94 for Night Cream; £55 for Treatment Essence clarins.co.uk 01279 774215
Elemis Elemis has launched two new Peptide4 products. Peptide4 Overnight Radiance Peel gently exfoliates to remove dead cells while providing moisture for a brighter complexion. Ingredients include lactic acids; hibiscus acids and British night-scented stock oil. Peptide4 Antioxidant Hydra-Serum, which includes Indian gooseberry, saffron flower and lotus flower milk, offers antioxidants and hydration to the skin while enhancing its natural defence against dulling effects of everyday pollutants. RRP: £50 for Overnight Radiance Peel; £45 for Antioxidant Hydra-Serum 0117 316 1888 elemis.com
Nilo Part of the Boheme collection, the Nilo Spa Design Musette Reclining Makeup Chair is a rotating chair with an extended headrest, fitted with safe locking system, footrest and reclining backrest. Available in a wide range of colours and padded in high-comfort material and PU soft cover, the chair was inspired by a classic design but has a strong versatility. It is also equipped with an adjustable base. Trade: £1,635 020 3207 2032 nilo-beauty.com
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Classified
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CALL GABRIEL LARTEY on 020 3841 7376 or email gabriel@professionalbeauty.co.uk
Recruitment
Supplies
Hakan Altay RENTAL OPPORTUNITIES We are looking for someone to rent the salon hairdressing chairs for £500 per week. The beauty room is also for rent of £500 per week. The salon is located in London Mayfair, Park Lane. It is a luxury Salon only minutes away from Marble Arch station in a 5 star surrounding. Email your CV and Cover Letter to altayparklane@yahoo.co.uk if you are interested.
The brand trusted by thousands of spas and therapists. Project2_Layout 1 05/03/2019 14:35 Page 1
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Career Path
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How to make it as a...
treatment MANAGER
Kohler Waters Spa’s Jelena Adahovska reveals the experience needed for this high-level role, and why you’ll need a strong commercial knowledge of the business too
1. Prior managerial experience is crucial “While studying to become a therapist, I worked in restaurants, eventually becoming the assistant restaurant and private dining manager at The Old Course Hotel St Andrews in Scotland. Before long I was working five days in the restaurant and then one day a week in the hotel’s Kohler Waters Spa, but eventually moved over permanently as the treatment manager. “When I started working at the spa as a therapist it was quite challenging because I had to bite my tongue a lot. Having been a manager already, I had lots of ideas about how to improve the client journey but I wasn’t in a managerial position to do so. After a year, I got the chance to move up and implement these. I think starting my journey the way I did helped me be more ready to run the treatment side of the business.”
2. Understand your responsibilities “A treatment manager looks at the business’s income from the treatment menu and ensures everything is cost-effective and profitable, which differs to the role of a senior spa therapist, who tends to look after the team on a more personal level. “There’s a small bridge between yourself and the therapists on the spa floor, so make sure that communication with your senior staff is good and regular. Your staff need the right tools to run the business and you’re the one who creates them.”
3. Make sure to tick all boxes “You need to be ready for all types of challenges because this role is all about ensuring that everything runs smoothly. You have to make sure all health and safety standards for treatments are met, that everything is correct when changing menus or
protocols, and that there are plenty of retail products for therapists to sell. “Some people think managing is just coming in and doing nothing, but it’s actually a lot more hands on. If someone calls in sick, you also need to allocate extra staff or get involved yourself. It takes a certain level of understanding of the business as a whole to manage these situations.”
4. Motivate your team “The role of treatment manger is a lot like being the team’s mum. Sometimes you need to give them a reminder to work hard, other times you may need to calm them down. If you’re too soft, they’ll walk over you; if you’re too harsh then they’ll stop working hard. It’s difficult but you need to make sure a standard is maintained, as well as a respect for the business and yourself. It’s not just about developing yourself as a manager, but having the team support your decisions.”
5. You can’t please everyone “The biggest challenge in this role is keeping everyone happy, both therapists and clients, because it’s just human nature to complain about something. If it’s raining, people are not happy; if it’s sunny, it’s ‘Oh my god. It’s too hot’. The most rewarding part of the job is seeing clients returning for that treatment they loved, or staff saying, ‘This is the best place to work’. We never really have any negative feedback, which is great because it means you’re doing something right. “It’s really important for therapists to like their working environment because if they’re happy, the clients will be as well.” PB
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VISIT US ON STAND T31
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