Professional Beauty May 2020

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May 2020 |


Heaven’s Bee Sting Facial is a natural face lift which transforms the skin, working on all the tell-tale signs of tiredness and ageing (including lines, pigmentation, puffy eyes and loose tissue around the chin) making you look instantly younger after just one treatment. The treatment combines a series of hands on techniques to relax facial muscle tissue to firm and tighten for smoother, more youthful skin. Heaven’s Bee Venom Mask is the key product used in this facial which contains ingredients that work in synergy with the Bee Venom ingredient, including Manuka Honey to sooth and heal as well as Shea Butter, Rose & Lavender (as well as Heaven’s ABEETOXIN®). The natural antibiotics within the Bee Venom itself helps the skin to heal and also prevent allergies, making this treatment ideal for sensitive skin. The Bee Sting Facial relieves modern day stresses and bad posture (caused by leaning over computers, texting, and sedentary lifestyles of long working hours). Heaven’s Bee Sting Facial repositions the skull and jaw, helping to realign the rest of the body, releasing tension – as well as making you look and feel younger. The techniques used throughout the Bee Sting Facial are exclusive to Heaven, and it’s associate trained therapists, having been developed by Deborah Mitchell.

After just one treatment, skin will be left looking and feeling youthful and glowing, delivering the results of injectables without the needles.

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Contents Regulars 7 News Outline of the financial aid the Government is providing small businesses; UK online beauty sales soar during Covid-19 21 What the industry’s been talking about online 22 Digital direction Coronavirus: creating engaging online content while your salon or spa is shut 27 Insider Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 35 Ward’s world Hellen Ward on how to execute your salon’s reopening after lockdown 39 Ask the experts How to boost customer retention, upsell aftercare products and fine tune your intimate waxing technique 73 Nail notes Tips for taking pro “nailfies” for social media 79 Out & about Behind the scenes at the industry’s biggest events pre-lockdown 83 Treatment news First look at Thalgo’s new pollution-fighting facial; our review of Banya No.1’s Parenie and Salt Scrub treatment


On the cover

45 Talking to… Clare Dickens Totally UK’s new managing director tells us the distributor’s game plan for surviving the pandemic and how the company is helping its accounts during this time

51 Coronavirus Advice Beauty business expert Liz McKeon reveals 11 ways your beauty business can survive the Covid-19 pandemic

67 Hot topic Six ways you can generate revenue during lockdown, from hosting weekly beauty classes to collaborating with suppliers

85 New products Sun care innovations from Caudalie and Dermalogica; plus Image Skincare launches two new anti-ageing lines

68 All inclusive How to tailor your menu to offer a more diverse range of treatments for people of colour, covering skin type classification systems, contraindications and the right marketing imagery

94 Career path Award-wining tech Michelle Brookes reveals how to make it as a nail educator and earn the respect of your students

75 Operational advice The seven mistakes your therapists could be making when retailing and how this hurts your bottom line

54 12 ways to keep waxing clients loyal Building a loyal client base is the holy grail for any waxer. We quiz the industry’s leading professionals on how they keep customers committed to them, through reward systems, extra touches and communication 63 Feel no pain RSI and lower back pain are common injuries for beauty therapists. We look at the nw wave of ergonomic treatment beds that are good for your teams as well as your clients

Cover image: Dorothy Perkins

Editor’s Comment


I think it’s fair to say that the past month has been one of the most testing in living memory for beauty and spa professionals. Since the enforced business closures in late March, we’ve all had to adapt and learn quickly – how to furlough staff, apply for new types of grants and payment deferrals, communicate via endless virtual platforms – and all of this while trying to look after our families and our own mental wellbeing. While many business owners have, understandably, had to press pause completely on work in order to juggle all these pressures, others have found some innovative ways to maintain communication with their clients and, in some cases, continue to generate revenue during lockdown. Some have launched virtual wellness sessions and others offered online consultations, for example, retailing product to clients to help them maintain the results of their last treatments as best they can at home. On pages 12 and 16, we also look at a few of the initiatives suppliers have launched to help their accounts, including services to deliver product to clients on the salon’s behalf, paying commission on sales, and free online training to help professionals upskill. Here at Professional Beauty we’ve launched free daily webinars to keep the industry connected during these uncertain times and we’re very grateful for your lovely feedback on these. You can find out a bit more about them on page 8. If there’s one thing we can be sure of at the moment, it’s that clients will need you more than ever once lockdown is over, so we’re also bringing you some tips to prepare your business to welcome back loyal customers and attract new ones, with lead features on how to keep waxing clients loyal (page 54) and ensure you’re catering for skin of colour (page 68).




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7 News

News Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme gives salons access to financial aid The Government’s Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme went live on April 20 and it was a pivotal moment for the industry, with beauty salons, spas, nail bars and aesthetic clinics able to claim up to £2,500 per month towards staff wages. The system can process up to 450,000 applications per hour, with employers receiving the money within six working days of making a claim. It is understood that 67,000 applications from employers had been made within the first 30 minutes of the scheme launching. The scheme has also been extended by a further month, until the end of June, after the Government announced in mid-April that UK lockdown restrictions would continue for “at least” another three weeks.

On launch day, chancellor Rishi Sunak posted on Twitter: “We promised support would be available by the end of April – today, we deliver our promise.” The scheme has helped people who could have lost their jobs if they had not been furloughed. What does the Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme cover? • The Government grant covers 80%

of the salary of retained workers, up to a total of £2,500 per month • The scheme is open to any employer in the country and covers the cost of wages backdated to March 1, until the end of June • The minimum amount of time that an employee can be furloughed is three weeks. Other financial support you can claim from the Government includes Coronavirus Business Interruption Loans – a scheme to help small and medium-sized businesses affected by Covid-19 access finance of up to £5 million interest-free for 12 months. Also, the next quarter of VAT payments have been deferred to the following quarter, so no business will pay VAT until the end of June.

UK online beauty sales soar 111% since the start of coronavirus

Clients are still investing in beauty during the coronavirus pandemic, with UK online retailers experiencing an 111% boost to personal care product transactions since the start of the crisis in March. April saw the biggest increase in online sales of beauty products, with a 53% rise during the week

of April 6–12, found analytics firm Contentsquare. Retailers also experienced a 38% increase in site visits during this period. “With people at home it would be easy to assume that consumers aren’t going to worry about their morning beauty routines. In fact, the opposite is true,” said Aimee Stone Munsell, Contentsquare’s chief marketing officer. This increase in sales is known as the “lipstick effect” – when consumers spend money on small indulgences during economic downturns – and with UK consumers trying to keep up their beauty rituals, this has created important opportunities for salons to continue

retailing products where possible. The biggest growth area is nail care, with online sales increasing 12% in the week beginning March 16, according to analyst The NPD Group. The week after, March 23–29, when all non-essential businesses were forced to close, sales increased 24% compared to the same time period in 2019. Sales of base coats and top coats increased 102%, colour enamel 18% and nail care products 13% during this time, with pink, red and beige the most popular lacquer shades. Consumers spent £23,000 online buying prestige nail colour (with an average price of £14.69) on the week starting March 23.




PB launches daily webinars to support salons in lockdown

// Celebrity holistic facialist Bharti Vyas has launched the Holistic Face and Body Care range. All products were created in collaboration with Vyas’s two daughters and are inspired by her Eastern roots and Ayurvedic principles. The collection has nine vegan products for face and body that are suitable for all skin types. // Online platform Eleventh Hour has launched to help hair and beauty businesses fill empty slots and clients to find last-minute appointments. The platform launched with a #StandWithSalons support campaign and is offering an 11-week free trial to salons and freelancers, to start once they reopen. // Crystal Clear’s H20 Glow has hit a big milestone, with two million facials having been performed. The treatment, which incorporates Comcit-Elite, repairs and rejuvenates skin using cryo-oxygen, plant stem cells, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. // Aesthetic Source has taken on the UK and Ireland distribution for Oxygenetix, a colour cosmetic foundation line suitable for all skin types, developed to minimise patients’ scarring, discomfort and downtime following aesthetic procedures. // Suffolk-based SBC Skincare is celebrating its 30-year anniversary. Initially producing skincare gels for professional use in 1990, the brand now has more than 25 collections. Products launched to celebrate its 30th include Vitamin C Super Boost Serum for face and body, and the HydraCollagen and Black Pearl collection.

With coronavirus forcing salons, spas and freelance beauty businesses to close, Professional Beauty has enlisted the help of top experts to provide a daily opportunity for the industry to get together and interact during this challenging time, via free live webinars and interviews. The initiative kicked off with PB Virtual Beauty Week (March 29–April 3), which hosted five sessions a day, featuring experts from across the beauty and spa fields. Speakers included renowned session tech and author Marian Newman; beauty business expert Liz McKeon; and the NHBF’s Hilary Hall and Tina Beaumont-Goddard, who shared their

advice for salon owners on how to access Covid-19 funding. There were also several spa panels of top-level international operators. Following the success of Virtual Beauty Week, Professional Beauty has continued to host webinars every week day. Highlights include preparing for post-coronavirus reopening with Hellen Ward, and an intimate waxing 101 with waxers Andy Rouillard and Sam Marshall. Professional Beauty Group is now launching an online World Spa & Wellness Conference (May 12–14) and Aesthetic Medicine Virtual Week (May 11–15) to deliver practical advice to professionals in the spa and aesthetics industries. The upcoming beauty webinar schedule, along with links to watch recordings of the previous sessions, can be viewed at professionalbeauty.

Microblading and acne top beauty searches on Google Microblading and acne treatments are among the most searched-for beauty terms on Google, according to data from comparison platform Cosmetify. With salons and spas forced to close due to the coronavirus outbreak, many clients are also taking to the internet to ask for help with their beauty questions. “How to get rid of spots” was the most popular search term,

to get rid of dandruff”. Searches for skincare concerns on the body also made the list, with terms such as “how to get rid of cellulite” and “how to get rid of stretch marks” scoring highly.

followed by “how to cut your own hair”. Other popular searches included “how to get rid of blackheads”, “what is microblading?” and “how

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inbrief // Microneedling device SkinPen got some great screen time in April, as ambassador Nilam Holmes used the device on popular Channel 5 show 10 Years Younger in 10 Days. Holmes used SkinPen on lollipop lady Klara to improve the appearance of adult acne scarring, applying the needles to help boost collagen production in the skin. // Cancer charity Look Good Feel Better has teamed up with England Netball and Debenhams to host a two-day netball event at the Copper Box arena in London’s Olympic Park. The event on October 3–4 will help finance confidence workshops and sessions for those facing cancer. // Sweet Squared’s Light Elegance was recently featured in the Taylor Swift documentary, Miss Americana. The shades worn by the country-pop singer were pink Dreamcicle and Smitten from the One Scoop, or Two? collection. // Serenity Spa at Seaham Hall, Durham, has created a series of free virtual wellbeing sessions for its clients, in collaboration with key partners Temple Spa and Ishga. The sessions cover cooking, hypnotherapy relaxation, physical and mental wellbeing, gardening and more.

Pro brands launch initiatives to let salons retail and reach clients Leading beauty brands are supporting salons and spas during Covid-19 by delivering retail products to clients and giving the account a commission on the sale. This not only helps beauty businesses generate revenue while shut, but saves them having to hold lots of stock and pay for the postage and packaging. It also gives them an important avenue for keeping in touch with clients while closed. For example, Dermalogica’s UK Affiliate Programme allows therapists to earn a 25% commission on the RRP of retail products bought by their clients through, while Germaine de Capuccini has created Treat Yourself Kits for clients to maintain their skin health at home, with the company sending them out directly, allowing salons to retail them. Katherine Daniels has launched a drop-ship service for its stockists so

Lockdown making women feel more skin confident

Despite reports of the increasing social media pressure to look perfect, almost

four days per week, and of those make-up wearers, 32% would confidently share a bare-faced photo. During the current lockdown period, 69% have been wearing less make-up than usual. In fact, more than half have gone to the supermarket make-up free, 28% have done a video call with a friend, and 17% with colleagues, with a bare-face.

three quarters of UK women (73%) feel comfortable in their skin, according to research from skincare brand Skin Proud. The poll of 2,000 women also found that 81% wear make-up an average of

During the lockdown, more than a quarter of adults have felt comfortable looking natural while on video calls and 34% said they have been taking more care of their skin than usual.

// Beauty retail platform Lookfantastic has launched the #teamfantastic initiative, where it is extending its influencer programme to self-employed beauty professionals to help them during the coronavirus pandemic. Participants will be given expertise on creating relevant content for their social channels.

clients can buy products and have them delivered to their door. Image Skincare has a similar service, where partners charge the client the retail price, but the company only takes the wholesale cost from salon accounts, while also covering the picking, packaging and delivery costs. Meanwhile, Aesthetic Source has teamed up with Get Harley to package and send skincare regimes to the doors of each of its clinic owner clients, while ZO Skin Health’s mail shipment service gives accounts access to its entire range and will send sold products to clients’ doors on their behalf.

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inbrief // Norvell Tanning has launched redesigned packaging for its Venetian Plus at-home tanning and airbrush solutions range. The new look includes a black background with purple and pink highlights, italic fonts and a simplified logo. // Aromatherapy Associates has partnered with luxury health spa Champneys to introduce new treatments, performed on the Gharieni MLX Quartz Bed. The two new therapies, Thermal Full Body Bliss and Thermal Upper Body Bliss, will be available at the Forest Mere location after lockdown. // A biomanufactured sustainable palm oil has been developed by C16 Biosciences to help bring an end to tropical deforestation and the negative impact that has on the world’s endangered species. It will initially be used in the beauty and personal care industry and has received $20 million (around £16m) investment from venture capitalists including Waldencast and Bill Gates’s Breakthrough Energy Ventures. // Maddie Regan, head nail tech at 81 Rose Garden in Newcastle under Lyme, is launching a nail academy after a successful trial in March. Courses will cover physiology, nail health and advanced gel and acrylic application, among others. // Celebrity aesthetician Joanna Vargas has released Glow From Within, a guide to flawless skin, covering nutrition, sleep, stress and skincare routines, published by Harper Wave. Vargas’s celeb clients includ Julianne Moore and Sofia Coppola.

Salons, clinics and brands urged to donate PPE to NHS Due to the current pandemic, the NHS is struggling with shortages of personal protective equipment (PPE) for its frontline workers in hospitals and care homes. Salons, clinics and suppliers are being urged to donate unused PPE including masks, gloves, gowns and sanitisers to help protect the lives of those working and being treated. Drop-off points have been set-up in various locations across the country through an initiative called Donate Your PPE, which is coordinating efforts and reducing the need for travel Elsewhere, initiatives have been set up by the beauty industry. Nail tech

PB creates online Coronavirus Support Guide for salons, spas and mobile practitioners Professional Beauty has created a comprehensive Coronavirus Support Guide for beauty salons, spas, and selfemployed therapists and techs to help them survive the Covid-19 pandemic. The guide includes everything you need to know about accessing crucial Government grants such as the

best in the industry on how to launch

Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme, Self-

digital services to clients while they’re

Employed Income Support Scheme and

at home, such as online consultations

Coronavirus Business Interruption Loans,

and facial massage courses, as well as

as well as access to an array of free tools

information on how you can donate

to protect your mental wellbeing during

vital PPE equipment to the NHS. Access

this difficult time.

the guide at:

We’ve also included advice from the

Katie Barnes in Warwickshire reacted quickly, coordinating her own PPE collection. “I distribute these accordingly to different medical professionals and hospitals, otherwise they get overloaded with deliveries which won’t help to stop the spread,” she said. She has since set up a website to allow professionals from further afield to donate both PPE and money. Elsewhere, the University of Cambridge is coordinating PPE collection alongside its ongoing research via this link.


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diarydates // October 11 World Spa & Wellness Awards London A celebration of the best hotels and resort spas from around the world. 020 7351 0536 // October 11–12 World Spa & Wellness Convention London ExCel London The essential conference for international spa owners and hoteliers looking to network. 020 7351 0536 // October 11–12 Professional Beauty London ExCeL London The flagship show from the PB Group will now be held alongside major hair show Salon International. It will include conferences for spa, manufacturing, education and much more. 020 7351 0536 London // November 2 Professional Beauty Awards London Hilton Park Lane Prestigious awards scheme for the beauty, spa, nails and aesthetics markets. 020 7351 0536 pbawards

// November 8–9 Professional Beauty and Hairdressers’ Journal Ireland Citywest Dublin Join Ireland’s biggest beauty, hair and spa trade show, hosted by PB and HJI. 020 7351 0536 // November 15–16 Professional Beauty North EventCity Manchester The largest beauty exhibition in the North is back with new November dates. 020 7351 0536 north

Beauty brands switch production to hand sanitisers and essential PPE While salons are temporarily closed, many beauty product brands have switched their production efforts to hand sanitisers and other essential PPE. Following an expansion of its production license, Medik8 has developed the Hygienic Hand Rub, distributing more than 4,000 bottles to frontline workers. Comfort Zone has donated 100,000 bottles of its new Good Hope Gel to multiple causes, and Gerrard International’s brand BeautyLab has been giving its new hand gel to volunteers working at the Trussell Trust, who assist those unable to afford food. SBC, Germaine de Capuccini and Proto-col have similarly contributed

to the ongoing hand sanitiser effort, launching new products ans switching production. Meanwhile, brands including Gharieni and Fashionizer have been producing protective, washable face masks. Gharieni’s are designed with exchangeable nanofilters.

Pro brands develop online training to support salons in lockdown Many of the leading suppliers in the industry have adapted the way they work to offer free online training to salon and spa accounts during lockdown. Inika has created a consumer consultation option for salons, where individuals or groups can sign up for 20-minute consultations. Germaine de Capuccini has collaborated with business trainer Valerie Delforge to launch webinar modules. INK London has launched nail art sessions and live Q&As on Facebook. Software company Timely

is running a bootcamp with weekly classes offering advice and support. Eve Taylor is running weekly Facebook Live sessions covering product training and skin specific education. Shared Beauty Secrets has created online training for its Sensory Retreats brand, and achieved Babtac accreditation for its online Lava Shells training. Lash Perfect has created the Remote Education Programme, allowing lash techs to learn the basics from home then attend a final training and assessment session once lockdown ends. Image Skincare has online workshops; Wellness for Cancer has offered donation-based access to foundational training; Louella Belle has created online training for IBX and Footlogix; Katherine Daniels has launched familiarisation training for products; Aesthetic Source has put together webinars, and CACI is sharing a free online treatment tutorial each week.

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The signature product that has gained a worldwide reputation. A revolutionary organic cream that works to control the facial muscles for tightening, firming and lifting; whilst penetrating fine lines, frown lines and wrinkles and giving that immediate anti-ageing effect. ABEETOXIN® is the natural alternative to botox and has healing properties making it great for those with blemished skin, rosacea, eczema, dry and mature skin. Organic ingredients, Bee venom and vegetarian alternative. No bees are harmed during the process of creating Heaven’s Bee Venom Mask, actually our hives thrive and produce more honey and are healthy.

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Aura Tanning Sprayers (@AURA_Sprayers): Listened to @Beautybizliz and @ pro_beauty speaking about the 11 tips to help your business through Coronavirus – very motivating and inspiring! Highly recommend taking a moment to listen to her advice! #pbvirtualweek

We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Hot topic Lisa Lilley (@love_lilley_nails): Thank you so much @pro_beauty01 magazine for featuring us in print! Loving being a brand ambassador for @georgiesmedleygroup.

How beauty salons can donate PPE to the NHS during coronavirus Abigail Oleck Hewett, founder of Beau-Skin, London, commented: “Absolutely! BeauSkin donated PPE and products immediately from our store cupboard and have set up a JustGiving page to be able to order hand sanitiser from our manufacturers to donate to key workers and volunteers. The local doctor’s surgery and post office already reached out.”

Hot topic

Professional Beauty’s Virtual Beauty Week THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Is your salon/spa offering online consultations or training for clients during lockdown?

32% YES

68% NO Interestingly, among the above figures: 90% of respondents on Facebook answered “No”, while 66% of respondents on Instagram answered “Yes”.

Kathryn Danzey, managing director of Rejuvenated, Sheffield, commented: ”We’d like to say a huge thank you to Professional Beauty for hosting a weeklong series of video presentations to help clinics and practitioners during this time. Like many industries, the beauty and aesthetic industry has been massively impacted by the current situation, so these videos have been an incredible resource.” Shannice Brown, freelance brow and nail technician, London, commented: “I love that @pro_beauty01 have created this Virtual Beauty Week. I was going crazy; this has given me something to look forward to.” Nicola Fahey, owner of The Bodyworks Clinic, Isle of Wight, commented: “A huge thank you to Professional Beauty and everyone involved in the virtual sessions. Brilliant mentoring and advice, this has been a very positive week.”

Follow Professional Beauty… and the team: @pro_beauty01 @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @eleanorvousden and @katsjonouchi


Digital Direction


Content DURING

CORONAVIRUS With physical salon and spa locations forced to close as a result of the coronavirus pandemic, there’s been a rush to digital platforms. PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin gives advice on how you can adapt your online offer


t the time of writing, social media and websites are the only way many businesses can keep in touch with their clients. But with so much noise and uncertainty going on since the start of the UK’s lockdown, it’s understandable if you’re not sure where to start online. Here are three things you can be doing on digital to help now, and also to build for success in the future.

1. Train your clients (and yourself) It’s surprising that, in the results of our digital poll this month, less than a third of respondents were offering online training or consultations online. This is a great way to show off your knowledge and expertise to clients both old and new. It’s a way to remind people why they trust and visit you, so that when the lockdown is over, they have the confidence to return to your business. Don’t feel like you’re giving away secrets or showing clients how to do your job themselves. A simple training video on how to do an at-home facial can help people feel confident, but it’s the personal touch and knowledge that will keep them loyal to you. This is also a great time to train yourself up. If you’re not confident on a practical skill, or want to upskill on digital knowledge, there are plenty of great resources. Take a look at the Google Digital Garage (previously mentioned in this column), or join in our Professional Beauty Webinars! Sign up at

2. Adjusting frequency of content We don’t know exactly when salons and spas will be able to get fully running again. This poses an issue for people posting content from their business online. If you’re concerned about running low on fresh content, you can adjust how often you’re posting – don’t feel beholden to post every day. Another great tip is to re-use existing work and make it “evergreen”. Ask your audience to get involved: create a poll of two pre-existing make-up looks, nail art or new treatment ideas, for example, and ask them: “which would you like when the salon is open again?”. It’s another reminder to people that you’ll be back.

3. Show personality - don’t pander There’s a fine line to follow when it comes to promoting yourself at any time, but especially in the current situation. Already, some brands or celebrities have had misguided attempts on social media to show they’re “getting involved”. These are often read as self-promotion attempts and have had a negative response. Don’t be afraid to share your real experiences of the lockdown. If you don’t want to post this all over your Facebook page or Instagram grid, consider using the Stories functions for this. Many of your clients may be feeling the same way, and by allowing your true personality to come through, they’ll be able to relate clearly – furthering that client-therapist bond. PB

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27 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market


The impact of the coronavirus pandemic on beauty salons in March, when all were forced to close by the UK Government, can be clearly seen in the figures below. Not only did it have an impact on retail sales but it massively affected treatment business, bringing your room occupancy down to 45% when people were social distancing – this was during the first half of the month, before lockdown was brought in. However, despite this being an unprecedented situation, more than a third of you (38%) have found ways to continue to generate revenue while stuck at home in Covid-19 lockdown. The most popular route has been keeping clients topped up with their must-have skincare products by promoting your online retail shop (39%) and posting them the goods from your home. Meanwhile, others are selling vouchers (15%) to be used when the salon reopens and some therapists have started hosting online consultations (12%) with regulars who are on a course of treatments, helping them keep up the results until they can see you again.

On the spot How are you generating revenue during coronavirus? 1. Retailing products via online shop 2. Selling vouchers 3. Hosting online consultations and tutorials

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The spa industry has felt the impact of the coronavirus pandemic just as much as the beauty salon market, with the forced closure dramatically affecting profits. As a result, many of you have thought about ways to try and keep your business afloat during this difficult time, especially when your teams are on furlough. Almost half (42%) of operators have tried to stay connected with their client base during lockdown using the wonders of technology, with 55% creating skin kits for clients to use at home – posting them so customers can do their own mini treatments; while 44% are hosting virtual consultations, teaching viewers how to perform an effective facial massage, for example. However, with UK spa operators knowing that a 360-degree approach to mental and physical wellbeing involves regular fitness too, just under a quarter (22%) have been hosting virtual wellness classes with clients – from yoga and meditation to breathing exercises – on Instagram, Facebook and Zoom.

On the spot Which age group are you targeting your spa marketing towards the most this year? 1. Baby boomers 2. Generation Z 3. Generation X 4. Millennials



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How are you generating revenue during coronavirus? 1. Retail sales via online shop 2. Virtual consultations 3. Wellness classes




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Business Trends




Health and safety is a top priority for your business, which is why it’s no surprise that just under a third (31%) of your nail techs update their tools monthly, while 17% do it every three months and 11% every six months. Making sure these items are in pristine condition is the only way to ensure a first-class manicure or pedicure every time. Meanwhile, showcasing your amazing nail art work on social media is key to boosting your business’s online reputation, which has proven more important than ever during the current pandemic. More than a quarter of you (28%) use graphic design platform Canva to create Instagram-worthy designs to showcase your work, while 8% also use Watermark to make sure their creation is accredited to them, and will stay that way if the image is shared. Other popular photo-editing apps techs use include Unfold (3%), to create slick designs for Instagram Stories, and Snapseed (3%), to apply digital filters.

Which photo-editing app do you use when loading your work up to social media? 1. Canva 2. Watermark 3. Unfold 4. Snapseed


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NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK (BEFORE THE ENFORCED CLOSURE) How often do your nail techs update their tools? 1. Monthly 2. Every three months 3. Every year 4. Every six months

METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email from March 31 to April 8, regarding business for the month to March 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.


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35 Ward’s World

Pause and

reboot Coronavirus has caused the biggest upheaval in living memory for most salon owners, but it’s also a chance to take stock and plan ahead, writes HELLEN WARD


t the time of writing, we are in lockdown, living in a strange new world where we’re all communicating via WhatsApp, Zoom and some other dark, selfdeleting messaging apps because we can’t even email as we are all furloughed. Furloughed…a word now so familiar yet just a few weeks ago I’d never heard of it. But then just a few weeks ago the world was a very different place. Watching Newsnight, I heard a business owner say it had taken him 10 years to build his business and 10 hours to close it down. My philosophy remains positive: 27 years to build a business, 27 hours to pause it and 27 days to reset, reboot and recalibrate it – because that’s what I’m using this time to do.

Time to think “Life is what happens to you while you’re busy making other plans”, sang John Lennon in Beautiful Boy (Darling Boy). Never has this been so true. The world, the workplace, was fast-paced and crazed. Social media was culpable for creating and worsening mental illness – making people constantly feel their life wasn’t as successful or exciting as somebody else’s. There was never enough time to properly live because there was so much to do – exercise had to be fitted into jampacked days, in which people accomplished more than their ancestors did in a week. But did they? Really? Coronavirus has changed that. The world’s stopped. Now’s the time to take stock, breathe and get creative. Creativity needs brain space and time to reflect. But when do we usually get the chance? I’ve spent the entire lockdown so far rewriting, reworking and re-energising my human resources (HR) system. Every owner of

employment legislation during this crisis – keeping staff informed during an ever-evolving scenario (thank heavens for NHBF). But the silent hours in between are the perfect time to conduct a bit of housekeeping.

Make a change There’s never been an opportunity like this to redefine your rules and regulations to restart the business when the time comes. So far, I’ve updated our terms and conditions of employment, staff handbook, and policies and procedures. I’ve spring-cleaned the way we operate so we can come back slicker. Having the time to properly look at what we want from the people we work with is a rare luxury and having the headspace to navigate it in such a focused way is rarer still. Lots of positives will come out of this crisis. Employers will find out who their “troops” are; who’s got their back. Employees will find out who their bosses really are too; whether they were strong and decisive leaders in a time of uncertainty. People will be taking stock of their lives and making big changes to their careers and aspirations. Those who are happy will value their jobs and workplaces more than ever. Those who aren’t will move on. Customers will value us. We’ll value them (as if we didn’t before?). We’ll learn to appreciate more. Let’s be thankful we get the chance. PB

Having the time to properly look at what we want from the people we work with is a rare luxury and having the headspace to navigate it in such a focused way is rarer still

a small business has had to get to grips with huge amounts of

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Send your feedback to


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Business Tips


ask the


Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

As a lash tech, how can I avoid underselling my services? It seems like everyone is doing lashes and prices are getting cheaper and cheaper. Some lash technicians are doing sets for £10 and, while they may be busy, it’s not a good business plan to work for such little money if you want to make a profit and grow. By the time you take out what you pay yourself, rent, product cost and other overheads, you are left with very little, and this is not a sustainable business. Do you want to work 12 hours a day, seven days a week for OK money, or do you want to work part-time hours for full-time pay? It’s something to think about because it depends on you how you market your business to your clients. When setting your prices, don’t worry about what everyone else is doing. Focus on yourself instead. What courses have you taken? How often do you update your knowledge? How good are your sets? How bespoke can you make your service – or does everyone walk out looking the same? Which glue, primers and aftercare products do you use, and do you know how to map or work with layers and curls? This is what you should be factoring in when setting prices, not what the lash technician down the road does. Focus on your target client, who they are and what their priority is. Is it the quality of their finished lashes they want, or the price? Aim your business, including prices, social media posts and the lashes you create at your

target client. You will also put clients off if you’re too cheap, and cheap lashes will never be good lashes because of the cost and time it takes to be skilled enough to create them. Make sure you review your prices each year, factoring in any bills that have gone up, such as gas, electricity, staffing or product cost increases.

Kristina Shepherd is the chief executive and founder of 27 Two 6 Beauty & KSLA Professional, a lash education and product company. She’s been a lash expert and business owner for 12 years.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

40 Business Tips

How can I upsell lash and brow aftercare products to clients? Are you talking to your clients about lash and brow aftercare techniques? These care tips will improve the longevity of your treatments and give you excellent upselling opportunities too. Keeping lash extensions clean can feel like a chore, but a good cleansing routine with oil-free products is one of the most important rituals to ensure lash longevity. Recommend oil-free cleansers to clients to help them keep extensions looking good when removing their make-up. Additionally, if your client wants to wear mascara, make sure they opt for an oil-free one. Care should also be

How can I get my clients’ gel polish manis to last longer? I love all aspects of being a nail tech, and the art and creativity is the most enjoyable part for me. However, you can’t beat a well-shaped nail and a long-lasting finish. I still love to learn and I believet as a good nail technician you are always open to learning something new. I get at least four or five emails a week about the longevity of gel polish manis and 98% of the time it’s due to incorrect nail preperation. Nail prep is sadly often rushed and the importance of it forgotten. It’s not until nail techs are having issues with the gel polish peeling and chipping that they realise they are missing out the most important part to any service. Taking at least 10 minutes to do preparation will ensure any treatment you apply to the natural nail will adhere correctly. Taking time to apply the gel is equally important. Smooth, thin coats are better than quick, thick ones. If you’re rushing, you risk the chance of over-applying, which can create issues with under gel or rippling in the lamp. No one wants to have to redo it, so take your time capping each layer and cleaning up any gel that may have touched the cuticle or skin before setting. This will help the gel to stay put and not lift from the plate. Finish the nail with a good shiny topcoat. And lastly, wait for the gel to cool before adding nail oil. Applying the oil too soon when the gel is warm can sometimes diminish the shine from the finished nail. So take the Tina Bell is the head of time to let them cool first. These education at Pure Nails tips will help your client’s gel and is the owner of Totally manicure to look great for as long Polished Nails & Beauty. as possible.

taken with any products used around the lashes, including eyeliner. Giving lashes a quick brush every morning and a couple of times throughout the day will stop extensions from getting tangled and keep them perfectly in place. Just like the hair on your head, your brows need conditioning too. After brow treatments, advise clients to use a nourishing, conditioning brow serum to help keep their brows in the best condition. A quick sweep over brows in the morning and evening with a growth serum will make a difference, especially if your clients are trying to grow their brows.

Natalie Piper is the business development manager at Lash Perfect, that offers expert training for brow and lash treatments.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

42 Business Tips

How can I fine tune my intimate waxing technique?

How can I boost customer retention? Retention is something every beauty business needs to work on. Existing customers spend, on average, 43% more with a salon than new customers. There is increased competition from the neverending stream of new skincare products and treatments being presented to consumers online and via social media. Despite this, the hardest thing for any salon is still to get customers to walk through the door, so when they do choose you, it’s vital that the experience they have will keep these precious customers coming back. Choose a results-orientated brand. Don’t pick products and treatments that are just trying to cash in on the latest trends. You will just be competing with everyone else jumping on that bandwagon. Instead, choose a brand that focuses on science and real results. Look for good before-and-after images and case studies that demonstrate what can be achieved. Stock a professional product house. Don’t make your job harder than it already is. You are not making customers fall in love with a brand just for them to purchase the products elsewhere. If you choose a professionalonly brand, they can only get the products they need from you, so they will keep coming back for more. Finally, invest in yourself and keep learning. By developing your skills, you can increase the range of treatments you offer and consumers love to Farrah Fawcett is an educator for distributor try new things. Offer clients the Sweet Squared and brand latest innovation your brand has, ambassador for skincare keep them engaged and brand Nimue. excited.

It’s all about going back to basics with removal and application techniques. Make sure your wax strips are applied in the right direction, and that they are not too long or not too wide. This is to avoid any unnecessary discomfort for the client. Make sure the temperature of the wax is correct. If your wax is too cold, you might find it doesn’t coat the hairs properly or grip them effectively. Therefore, when you do your removal it can leave a lot of hairs behind, meaning you have to go over that area again, which isn’t ideal as it adds to your treatment time and can start to be uncomfortable for the client. Sometimes, therapists report that the hair has been snapped, rather than being removed from the root. In these cases, it could be that you’re not coating the hair right down to the base where the skin layer is, or the wax it just sitting on the surface. For intimate waxing on female clients, different areas require different techniques. You can be more time efficient on the top section. However, you should take your time and work in a more detailed way on the labia and underneath to make sure the client feels comfortable and that you aren’t feeling at all pressured.

Louise Wendt de Oliveira is head of treatments and training at salon group NKD ( ) Waxing.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to


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45 Interview

Talking to...

CLARE Dickens The new managing director of distributor Totally UK tells Amanda Pauley how the company has been surviving during the coronavirus pandemic, and outlines her business plans going forward


he first thing that strikes me about Clare Dickens is her intense passion for the salon and spa industry, which is why it’s no wonder that Totally UK – the UK distributor of Spanish skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini, inch-loss wrap Universal Contour Wrap and luxury wax London Spa Company – appointed her as managing director in March 2020.

“Carole Jones [the chief executive] has got a real vision for Totally UK but needed an extra pair of hands to help deliver it, which is where I came in. I’ve spent time developing protocols, working on packaging, running sites and conducting training, as well as managing the more commercial elements of business, which makes it easy for me to build a

With more than 25 years’ experience under her belt, having worked as head of spa for Zelens, commercial manager for Natura Bissé and training manager for Guinot, her knowledge of the commercial and hands-on operation side of beauty businesses is broad, making her the perfect person to steer the Totally UK ship.

rapport with salon and spa directors as I understand their challenges,” says Dickens. “From a business perspective, my plan is to build on Totally UK’s reputation. The brands we distribute are pretty well established but does everybody know about everything that we do? I don’t think so, and >


46 Clockwise from below: Dickens with ISPA chairman Frank Pitsikalis; Germaine de Capuccini’s company laboratory; Germaine de Capuccini’s Timexpert Rides products

that’s where the opportunities lie.” The mission is to get the likes of skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini into more spas and high-street salon accounts but without hitting a saturation point as “we still want a level of exclusivity to our brands,” she says. The brand is currently in numerous reputable establishments such as Ye Olde Bell in Retford, Nottinghamshire; The Landmark London and Nirvana Spa in Wokingham. “Because we have such a vast array of treatments, we’re able to have two accounts quite close to each other, but one with a results-driven menu and the other with a more holistic approach. The diversity of Germaine de Capuccini’s range enables us to do that, establishing strong, long-term partnerships. ”

come up with innovations to help small operators make some money, such as putting together skin kits they can post to clients who were on a course of treatments to keep up the results, accompanying these with videos that explain how to apply the product.” At the time of writing, Dickens and her team are also looking into virtual training options so therapy teams can use this temporary closure period to upskill. “Our industry has experienced times of adversity before but we’re a tight and supportive community, so we can get through this,” she says. She also believes that beauty therapists will need to continue to take their expertise online to the masses to get through the crisis. “Those working in the industry know how to cleanse and exfoliate skin, or how much product to use, but there are so many people who don’t understand these basic things. Plus, with everyone’s stress levels through the roof, it’s bound to have an impact on their skin,” she explains. “Do virtual skincare or facial massage classes with clients, health and wellbeing sessions on

The brands we distribute are pretty well established but does everybody know about everything that we do? I don’t think so, and that’s where the opportunities lie

Navigating the storm However, little did Dickens know that three weeks into the job she would be trying to manage her new role during a global pandemic. The impact of the illness coronavirus, also known as Covid-19, hit the UK beauty industry hard, causing small and large businesses across the country to temporarily close on or before March 23 to try and prevent the spread. It’s a situation that Dickens never foresaw happening. “It’s a bit of a crazy world at the moment, so we’re just adjusting to the situation hour by hour as that’s how quickly it’s changing,” she says. “We’ve

the best supplements to take and breathing exercises to do, or simply check in with clients during this social distancing or isolation period and ask if they have, for >


    






KEY DATES 1992 Dickens joins Nirvana Spa in Wokingham as a therapist 1994 Promoted to spa manager at Nirvana Spa 1998 Takes on the role of training manager at Guinot/Mary Cohr UK 2004 Moves to Dubai and becomes spa director for The Fairmont 2006 Joins More Than Skin in New Zealand as business development manager 2011 Moves back to the UK and works as a freelance business coach

example, enough moisturiser. That way, if they are low, you can offer to post one to them.”

Rise to the challenge Totally UK has also had to adapt its business plan due to these extreme circumstances. For example, the company had scheduled Germaine de Capuccini’s big launch Timexpert Rides to be unveiled at Professional Beauty London in March but because the show has been postponed until October 11–12, the company has had to roll ahead with it now regardless. “It’s an anti-wrinkle programme that gives results in 30 days and it will be our key focus now, we have to push ahead,” says Dickens. In terms of getting stock, the company is on track: “We have forecasted business for the next three months and placed a big order to

cover that, so in terms of the supply process it is business as usual. In times of uncertainty, women still tend to buy their skincare cream.” Unfortunately, the coronavirus situation will also most likely exacerbate the recruitment crisis, which is why when things start to return to normal we need to work hard to demonstrate why beauty is such a great career choice, in order to encourage more young people into the industry. Dickens explains: “Businesses were already lacking the teams to fulfil client demand before this. It’s incredible news that people are valuing their time at the salon or spa more but we need the man power to meet the demand. After this is over, we need to get more people seeing beauty as a smart business choice.” PB

2013 Natura Bissé UK appoints Dickens spa development manager 2015 Promoted to commercial manager at Natura Bissé UK 2018 Joins Zelens as head of spa 2019 Becomes a UK Spa Association board member 2020 Takes on the role of managing director at Totally UK

Clockwise from top: A Germaine de Capuccini facial; London Spa Company’s Azulene wax product; Dickens (centre) at a UK Spa Association event

Wax CONFIDENCE WAX Award winning waxes, lotions and waxing accessories, using the latest technology for outstanding results.

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Coronavirus Advice



WAYS your business



Beauty business expert Liz McKeon reveals the measures salons and spas need to take to stay profitable during the coronavirus pandemic

s part of Professional Beauty’s ongoing online webinar programme, we spoke with business coach Liz McKeon about the crucial things you should be doing for your beauty salon or spa right now, as well as answering your questions on relaunching the business after the coronavirus lockdown has passed. “You now have time to work on your business, not just in it,” says McKeon, suggesting that this period of downtime should be seen as a great opportunity, not a detriment. McKeon reveals her top tips to help your business survive

change them in the evening’,” says McKeon. “It’s a different world now and we need to accept this. Make changes and constantly reframe your understanding of what’s going to happen.”

during Covid-19 closure.

don’t, it’ll have too much of an impact on your immune system,” explains McKeon. “You can’t afford to take that risk.”

1. Don’t bury your head in the sand “Entrepreneurs are viewing this as a time of opportunity. There’s a Chinese proverb that goes: ‘Great generals should issue commands in the morning, and then

2. Health is your number-one priority “Don’t take any chances because you’re the driving force of your business. Be sure that you are healthy physically, mentally and emotionally. You have got to be ready for a successful comeback, and to maintain your health you’ve got to manage your stress because, if you

3. Boost your team’s morale “Your team morale will likely be very low during this market

Coronavirus Advice

52 uncertainty. Good or bad, you must be able to communicate with them on a regular basis. This is the time to look at your team and how they perform as an entity, as well as assess how successful you are as a manager,” advises McKeon. “There’s lots of online courses available so, if you think now is the time to upscale, it’s time to organise that.”

4. Communicate with clients regularly “You’ve got to communicate with your clients, past and current, and reassure them of your business status via social media and newsletters – whatever it takes. If you stop all client communication then you have no backlog of pent-up demand. Stay on their radar to show that your relationship with them isn’t purely transactional,” says McKeon.

5. Take time to reflect “Rather than spending your time watching the news over and over, think about that to-do list you have – the things you continually procrastinate with. We all have time to attend to these jobs now and this extra planning will accelerate your success,” explains McKeon.

6. Shift your perspective “Every time there are massive universal changes, there are also opportunities. What are the chances for you to do better? I have a phrase: ‘Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity,’ and that’s what we want to create for you now,” says McKeon.

7. Remain positive “In the current climate, everyone is telling the same stories. People don’t need any more negativity. They will naturally gravitate to the people and brands that are positive about what’s going on, so be that person,” advises McKeon. “Also, organise some sort of routine for yourself – don’t go to bed without having a plan for the following day, so every day you have a reason to get up.”

9. Secure credit fast “Across the world, governments are putting billions into funding small businesses and if that cash is available. Even if you don’t need it right now, take it,” advises McKeon. “In most countries you can also have a three month mortgage break, so take it for yourself and bear your staff in mind.”

10. Shift your marketing to show support “People are in a panic mode and thinking differently, so you have to be thinking about your marketing from that perspective. Taking this time to sort out your marketing will be one of the best things to happen to your business,” says McKeon. “The most important question to consider right now is: ‘How can we help our clients in this time?’ Be helpful, and people will always buy from you.”

11. Remember, you will rise again “Keep the faith and get ready for your ‘rise again’ moment – there will be one. Here’s another saying: ‘A bend in the road is not the end of the road, unless you fail to make the turn’. When the recommended restrictions are lifted, you can look forward to an influx of business; just make sure you’re ready for it,” says McKeon. PB

8. Adopt a “now” attitude “Think about where you can reduce your costs right now – don’t put this off. I know it’s a scary time financially, but get to grips with your cash flow,” says McKeon. “If you need to book some time to speak to your accountant, do

Liz McKeon is a beauty business coach, author and a Professional Beauty London speaker. Watch her webinar on business tips for salons during lockdown at

it. It’ll give you peace of mind over the next few weeks.”


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to keep


As a regular treatment, and one for which trust is essential, waxing is the perfect service to help you build client loyalty. Kieran Read quizzes the industry’s top waxing brands to find out their trade secrets for keeping customers committed


uilding a loyal client base for your waxing business is not only essential for a reliable revenue stream but can make your customers feel like part of a family. When performing wax treatments day in, day out, it can become easy for therapists to slip into bad routines. In such a competitive field, this is enough to drive those customers away to your local competitors. Reviewing and updating your processes is vital if you want clients to return to your salon time and time again. We reveal 12 trade secrets to help you maintain waxing clients’ loyalty.


Communication is key It’s crucial that you don’t wait for clients to share any vital information. Instead, you should offer a full consultation before every

treatment. Some crucial questions Tracey Smith, founder and director of Ashmira Botanica, likes to cover include, “Has their medication changed? Are they using skincare containing retinol or a high level of vitamin A, which can make the skin thinner and more sensitive? Are they allergic to sticking plasters, pine or tree nuts, such as macadamia, hazelnut, shea butter or cacao?” Keeping in close contact with clients also allows you to better gauge their preferences. Hive‘s operations and marketing manager David Sneddon comments, “Some clients may prefer the scent of a fragranced wax, while others may be vegan and require a wax that would not compromise their beliefs. “Salons should ensure that they have a range of options available for different treatments and clients’ needs.”



immediately, making it likely that they will never visit again.”


Ask loyal clients to support you

An online presence is becoming increasingly important for the success of your salon. Not only does it keep you and your clients connected between waxes but it also reaches potential customers that aren’t just locals. “With the internet and social media at their fingertips, clients will look at reviews to ensure they’re getting the best service,” says Wax:one education ambassador Kirsti Turrel. “If you have great reviews that state how hygienic your service is, then clients are sure to go to you as they know they’re getting a clean, safe treatment that their peers can vouch for.” It’s always worth asking for support from your most loyal clients, whether that’s an Instagram post of the finished product after treatment or a tweet about their experience.

Never double dip

If there’s one thing all waxing experts are unanimous about, it’s that you should never double dip. “Double dipping is when a therapist uses a spatula to apply wax to a client, and then reuses the same spatula to apply more wax later on. It could contaminate the pot with bacteria, hair and even blood,” says Annabelle Pescaglini, product manager at Sienna X. Sneedon agrees, adding: “There is no point in investing in your business if all the hard work can be undone as soon as a client witnesses the waxing sin of double dipping, Any confidence will evaporate

Sienna X - strip wax


Nowadays, many clients won’t bother booking appointments if the process seems even vaguely confusing. “There is nothing more annoying than getting an answer machine or a constantly ringing phone when you want to book in,” says Lisa Stone, Salon System’s Just Wax educator. This is particularly important for waxing as most clients see it as a regular, fast, no-frills treatment so they will be less willing to spend time booking it than they might for a spa day or a facial. Streamlining bookings and briefly running clients through how to do so in the salon is a great way of increasing those all-important rebooking rates. It is also worth considering partnering with apps that can help make the process as efficient as possible.“Updating your system so clients can book online anytime will create a flexible service and accommodate your clients,” adds Stone.


Nail the basics

Although it may sound simple, ensuring the wax treatment is as good as it can be is perhaps the most crucial thing you can do to keep your clients on board and loyal, while also being the easiest thing to overlook.



Keep it simple

Salon System / Just Wax

Wax One



“A client is unlikely to contact a salon to report unwanted hair that has been left lingering in the folds of their private region; they will just never return to you again. If you’ve invested in training, you should be shown how to remove all hair safely,” explains Claire Prior, head educator for Outback Organics. Keeping up these professional standards involves taking it back to basics. “Make sure the wax is applied thinly, evenly and at a high temperature, quickly and comfortably. This not only makes it nice and easy for therapists performing the treatment but less painful for clients,” says Jessica Kilby, waxing specialist at Australian Bodycare.


Be price savvy


Be sensitive to client comfort

“Get your pricing right,” comments Stone. “Too cheap and people will wonder why your service is priced so low, but too expensive and they will look elsewhere for a saving. Know your customer and competition in the area and price accordingly.” Sneddon adds: “All salons must price their treatments at levels to create worthwhile profit. However, when doing so, these prices should also be positioned to ensure that customers feel that they receive true value for your services.” Never neglect the retail side of business either, as this is both a great source of revenue and a means of maintaining results for the client outside of the salon. “Be proactive. Never assume the client has a suitable product to tackle issues at home or wait for complaints about spots or trapped hairs. Recommend something at their first appointment to help prevent common problems before they even arise,” advises Smith.

Although for many clients having a wax is second nature, for others it can be a daunting process. Making sure the customer is feeling safe is essential for repeat business. “A therapist’s professional etiquette, demeanour and approach is key to ensure the client has a

sense that they are safe and comfortable without judgment,” shares Prior, while Smith advises, “Particularly on a client’s first wax, make sure they are OK with how much of them you are revealing because some can be quite shy.” Due to the heat of wax, always be conscious of protecting the client’s skin with cooling products, also. “This ensures that the wax removes completely but the oil creates a barrier on the skin, so it is protected from lifting, bruising, grazing, redness or irritation” shares Turrel. “You’ll find that customers will travel for a comfortable wax.” “Don’t pluck or pick your peelable wax off your client’s bikini line as most people say that’s the bit that hurts most,” adds Smith.


Take pride in your equipment

Looking after your waxing gear is a simple thing you can do to ensure its longevity and quality.“Our research found that 96% of clients class hygiene as one of their top priorities when having a waxing treatment,” shares Pescaglini. “I wouldn’t return anywhere if I felt it was dirty, that tools were not being sterilised correctly or hygiene procedures weren’t being followed,” admits Stone. “All too often, I see wax-covered heaters and burnt old wax with pots that are swimming in a collection of spilled wax over time. Clean your heater after each client,” advises Prior. “It only takes 20 seconds to apply equipment cleaner to a wax strip and then give it a good wipe around. Try to see what your client observes when they enter your treatment room.”

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Have treats ready

Going to the salon for many is an experience; a chance to step outside of daily hassles knowing they’ll feel better after the treatment. It only takes a few small additions to your service to make it all the more special. “Premium coffee and a selection of teas with a biscuit or handmade chocolate goes a long way. One salon I dealt with gave a glass of bubbly with every first-time intimate wax,” says Smith. Other things you should consider having are magazines and gentle music to make the waiting process relaxing, especially for clients that may be nervous.


Go the extra mile

“During a leg wax, I would always remove the hair from the client’s toes and feet. During an intimate wax, I would remove any hair on the buttocks and inner thighs as well. Clients like to feel that they are special and that you’re giving them that little extra care and attention,” says Caroline Mears, a Cambridge-based waxing specialist and one of Perron Rigot’s educators. Meanwhile, Smith says being more adaptable in your opening and closing hours can make a difference too. “Be flexible and do your best to get clients through the door, however busy you are – maybe even starting work earlier or later in the day than usual,”. Keeping up to date with new formulations is also crucial to success, as Georgia Coward, Lycon advisor, explains: “Providing a range that clients can only access through your salon gives it an element of exclusivity, and this can be a really strong pull for new and current clients.”.

It’s important you celebrate those that stick by you through thick and thin. “From first impressions to last, your clients need to be made to feel special and valued,” says Stone. “a loyalty scheme is a great way to keep them returning. It will make clients feel valued and it’s a good way of thanking them for their custom.” Monetary incentives aren’t the only draw for repeat clients, though, with many seeing the waxing salon as a place for downtime and a chance to speak about their lives. “Send a birthday greeting, gift or money-off



Reward repeat customers

voucher as a thank you for referrals to make clients feel special. Make sure you remember their holidays, life events and the names of their children too, because that personal approach goes a long way.”


Don’t forget the aftercare

Don’t forget to answer their questions and discuss aftercare advice. For example, if you notice they have ingrown hairs, tell them how to get rid of them and how to prevent them from reoccurring. Coward explains that the service needs to be bespoke from start to finish, adding: “We treat waxing like any other high-end skin treatment – there is no one-size-fits-all solution. From products used in the treatment to retail items, the service needs to be tailored to each client’s skin type.” A client who has a number of waxing treatments performed could also be advised to create one appointment to coincide with their hair growth cycle. “Consolidating a number of treatments into one helps your business perform more efficiently, and enables a saving to be passed on to the client, which boosts their loyalty,” says Sneddon. PB







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As a beauty therapist, maintaining good posture is crucial to prevent injuries such as RSI and back pain. Amanda Pauley explores the ergonomic treatment beds that are putting your team’s health first


epetitive strain injury (RSI) and lower back pain are unfortunately common side effects of working in the beauty and spa industry, which is why it’s important to do all you can to maintain your therapists’ health and safety. These injuries are usually caused from repeated hand and wrist movements during back-to-back treatments, or from bending and twisting over a client when working in a small space, putting unnecessary strain on the lower back. “Operators should make sure staff have small gaps between treatments so they can walk around, allowing blood to circulate around the body before starting their next appointment,” advises Paul Matthes, managing director of beauty equipment supplier PJS Direct. Implementing stretching exercises at the start and end of each day and teaching the team the elements of good posture are other ways to help prevent these issues. Investing in ergonomic equipment that has an excellent level of multifunctionality can also help

parts of the bed to be raised or lowered, is also essential so therapists can find the correct working position for them. Matthes explains: “If a couch is too high then the therapist will have to overstretch, too low and they will have to bend or arch their back.” Matthes advises looking for an adjustable treatment bed with an electric operation “as no extra force is required to move it as you would find with a cumbersome gas lift or hydraulic model. This allows staff with different heights to deliver treatments in a safe and comfortable position.” Not having the right amount of space in a treatment room could also be a cause for bad body posture. “Your therapist needs to get really close to the client, so they should be able to move their feet freely – to prevent tripping – and there should also be no obstructions in the room,” says Dafne Berlanga, vice president of

therapists maintain good posture. “Your beds need to have the correct size mattress – not excessively wide and with a base of limited dimensions so your therapists have room to move around,” says Matteo Brusaferri, general manager of spa equipment manufacturer Lemi. Electric height adjustment, which enables different

international business development at spa furniture manufacturer Oakworks. Over the page, we take a look at four innovative treatment beds that are all good for your therapists’ posture as well as for your clients’ comfort.

Spa Furniture

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Spa Furniture


PJS DIRECT RAYONG BED This spa bed can be transformed into several different positions due to its three-motor technology. The first allows the couch to be raised from 56cm off the floor to 88cm, so the therapist can adjust it to the height most comfortable for them, while also being helpful for older customers who have trouble getting onto high beds. The second moves the bed from a lying-down position to upright, preventing slouching or stress on the lower back. The third is used for the knee bend – ideal for clients who struggle with strain injuries Trade: £849 01634 565005

Lemi’s HBS Stress Relief System is at the heart of this multifunctional spa table, ensuring good ergonomics for the head, shoulders and back throughout treatment, as well as comfort for the client. The mattress thickness and width are customisable to help therapists maintain correct posture. The dual-use treatment bed and chair is electric so you can adjust the height, back rest and leg rest easily, and it has automatic return function (AUT) from any position back to the zero position. Price on application 0845 850 9983 (Sally Salon Services)


GHARIENI 601 This six-in-one multifunctional piece was developed with therapist wellbeing in mind, combining the best features of a spa table and treatment bed so you can perform massages, facials, manicures and pedicures. It’s electronically adjustable so it can be customised to each therapist’s height. It has swivelling armrests so you can work closer on the upper body and face, and a hand or foot switch to reduce further unnecessary movements. The customer also has three different headrests (multifunctional, U-shaped and standard), thick upholstery and a thermal heated surface. Trade: £3,240 +49 2841 8830 050

This treatment bed has been developed to prevent static body posture occurring during treatment, which could aggravate the neck, back and arms. The electric table provides a range of heights, while the open base allows for therapists to move their feet freely underneath without tripping. The head rest is connected outside of the main frame so therapists can gain better access to a client’s shoulders and back without developing microinjuries. The standout feature for customers is Oakworks’ ABC (adjustable breast comfort) System, which takes pressure off the breasts and tension out of the back. Trade: From £4,803 01225 744450 (Spa Vision)






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Your salon or spa may be temporarily closed due to coronavirus but you still have the opportunity to support your clients, maintain your brand and earn revenue, writes Clare Anderson etailing products and services online is one way you can generate income during this difficult time, providing that essential element of what you do best – helping clients look good and feel good. Here are six ways to up your retail sales during Covid-19 lockdown:

1. Reach out to your VIPs Your priority should be focusing on your existing clients before attracting new ones, because your current database are the ones you already have a relationship with. Keep in touch with them in the most direct way possible – email, SMS or WhatsApp – and tell them about your virtual services during this period of closure, as well as letting them know that you’re still there for them. Offer a one-to-one virtual session via a video app such as Zoom. Use this as an opportunity to help restock the products clients have run out of and to give them advice on how they can treat a particular problem, such as dry hands, while at home.

2. Help them with their homecare Send weekly or bi-weekly newsletters to your database, filled with beauty and wellbeing tips to help them maintain their salon results at home. The email should include a link to a specific “at-home products” section which they can click to buy items to use until they can see you. Include a different hero

could post on your social channels to boost online sales, linking to an offer to purchase.

4. Host weekly beauty classes Put together a group beauty class for clients – hosting it at the same time every week. Invite customers to purchase a set of products in advance, which you post to their home, and then ask them to join the class where you will talk through how to use them for the best results. Each class could have a different theme, focusing on a specific beauty concern.

5. Create kits clients can gift Create self-care home packs that clients can gift to loved ones who are finding lockdown tough. Include products that would be more appreciated at this time like crystals or soothing herbal teas, which help with stress, anxiety and sleep.

6. Plan ahead for when you re-open Sell vouchers for future treatments once lockdown is over, with an incentive such as an uplift in the voucher’s value, and make sure you extend the use-by date to allow for the closure period. Most of all, remember that people are feeling very alone at this time so will be grateful for human interaction, particularly if you personalise your approach. PB

product offer each time to help boost retail sales.

3. Collaborate with suppliers Talk to your product suppliers and find out what they’re doing to support accounts. Some brands have created short video tutorials using their products, which you

Clare Anderson is founder of Shared Beauty Secrets and new wellbeing brand Sensory Retreats

Skin of Colour


All INCLUSIVE A growing number of people now describe their skin as skin of colour, yet many still struggle to find a professional to meet their skincare needs. Eleanor Vousden finds out how you can serve a more diverse client base in your business


n a recent survey by Black Skin Directory, 92% of black women said it was challenging to find a skincare professional who could meet their needs. Therefore, knowing how to treat skin of colour is essential for your salon to be more inclusive. “As a world we are changing. In 1990, the US census said that there were six different races and just 23 sub races,” says Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, medical director of Adonia Medical Clinic. “In 2000, this was massively expanded to 67, and now there are even more.” In fact, approximately a third of the population in the US and 14% in the UK now consider themselves to have skin of colour. Additonally, research from the University of Nottingham shows that by 2051, the segment in the UK who consider themselves mixed-race is expected to grow by 200%. However, many beauty therapists admit that they feel nervous treating skin of colour, which includes African, Caribbean, South Asian, East Asian, South East Asian, Pacific Islander, Native American, Australoid, Middle Eastern, and Latino or Hispanic skin.

Scale up “There are more people who may have reactions that we don’t expect if we just used our eyes to guess what their heritage was,” says Dr Ejikeme. Therefore, it’s important to investigate this in the initial consultation to know what would happen to a client’s skin if you were to do a peel or microneedling treatment. The following scales can help you plan the best course of treatment.

Fitzpatrick Scale The Fitzpatrick scale classifies skin into six categories. It tells you which skin types are most likely to burn (I being

the fairest and most likely to burn, to VI being the darkest and least likely to burn) when exposed to UV light. However, “it does not tell you how the skin would react when exposed to laser hair removal or chemical peels,” says Dr Ejikeme. Additionally, it classifies skin type VI as “never burns”, which Dr Ejikeme says is incorrect. “I don’t know of a single person of colour who doesn’t burn,” she adds. Those with darker skin tones still need to wear an SPF, so make sure you can recommend one that will not leave a white cast on darker skin. Mineral sunscreens tend to be less ashy on darker complexions.

Obagi Skin Typing system Developed by dermatologist Dr Zein Obagi, this system categorises skin into white, black and Asian. While clients’ skin is far more complex and diverse than these three distinct groups, it’s good to have the system in the back of your mind to predict how your client’s skin may react to certain treatments, says Dr Ejikeme. “Imagine a fair Japanese woman whose skin is light. If you treated her skin inappropriately, it would pigment darker,” she says, explaining that the skin is more likely to pigment to the client’s underlying heritage.

Roberts Skin Type Classification System “This system helps you predict injury and it specifically looks at inflammation,” says Dr Ejikeme. It observes both the Fitzpatrick scale (observing skin tone) and Glogau scale (observing severity of wrinkles), but it also considers pigmentation and scarring, which is useful when planning a course of treatments. “The Roberts scarring scale looks at the different scarring patterns,” she adds. “Does the person have

Skin of Colour


Skin of Colour

70 atropic scarring? Do they scar flat? Do they scar with cysts? Do they scar with keloids, or with large keloids?” This will tell you how your client’s skin may react adversely to treatments. Similarly, the Roberts hyperpigmentation scale can predict the hyperpigmentation, or the hypopigmentation, a client may experience. “How long does that dark spot last for? Two weeks on average? Or do they tend to always scar with a permanent scar that lasts for years? These sorts of questions are really helpful,” says Dr Ejikeme. For example, clients with black, South Asian or Indian skin respond better to chemical peels, whereas those with East Asian skin respond better to microneedling treatments.

Attract a diverse client base Dija Ayodele, founder of The Black Skin Directory (BSD), reveals that 90% of respondents in a recent BSD survey said that the experience and knowledge of treating skin of colour was the primary reason they chose a particular clinician. One way to demonstrate this is by stocking product houses that show clinical trials on darker skin tones. “Some will do a clinical trial with skin tones up to Fitzpatrick scale four, but five and six are missing,” says Ayodele. Therefore, showing that the brands you use are effective on all skin tones will help to build trust with all your clients. Contact your product houses and ask if they can provide evidence of clinical trials for darker skin tones. Also. use diverse model imagery and showcase beforeand-after pictures from a range of clients in your marketing materials. “If you have a potential skin-of-colour client searching for these treatments and you haven’t got those images on your website, then you’re losing out on clients because they don’t see someone that looks like them,” says Ayodele. You may have the knowledge to treat a wide range of skin tones, but a client won’t know that unless it’s implicit on the first touch-point with your business. Additionally, using terms on your website such as black skin or Asian skin to caption the corresponding images will help your website to rank higher in Google searches, helping you to reach a broader audience. It’s often regarded that those with darker skin tones do not need to use a daily SPF. However, if they are concerned

about ageing and pigmentation, then it is a must, especially if they’re receiving a treatment that will make their skin more sensitive to UV rays. “There is also evidence that those with darker skin tones can still develop skin cancer,” says Ayodele, so it’s important to reiterate this when treating clients.

Dispel myths Another myth is that darker skin is thicker and can tolerate more aggressive treatment. This is untrue. Skin thickness is the same across all races, so it’s important to treat all your clients on a case-by-case basis when recommending treatments or retailing products. In fact, in Fitzpatrick skin types four to six, a higher level of inflammation is present in acne, as well as the likelihood of post-inflammatory pigmentation (PIH), says facialist and aesthetician Andy Millward: “A skin-of-colour client will have higher levels of inflammation at every single grade of acne compared to your Caucasian clients.” Skin of colour can be particularly prone to hypertrophic scarring (a scar contained to the area of trauma) and keloid scarring (a scar that grows past the initial area of injury), and this can be caused by trauma to the skin, such as acne. “As a non-medic, I can treat hypertrophic scarring, but I would have to refer for keloid scarring,” says Millward. “If in doubt, always refer to a medic for assessment.” PB

WATCH NOW… For more in-depth information on how to treat skin of colour and successfully reach this client base in your marketing, check out PB’s webinar with Dija Ayodele on our YouTube channel at


Nail Notes


TIPS for taking

the perfect NAILFIE

Taking nail selfies that don’t look amateur is the holy grail for nail techs. Emma Robyn shares her insight into the best lighting and props to use when snapping your work for Instagram


reating beautiful nail photos for social media, known as nailfies, can be difficult if you don’t know about the elements that make a good picture. Capturing the beautiful manicure you’ve created needs the right lighting, props and hand positioning to ensure it showcases your skills. Mobile nail tech Emma Robyn shares her tips for nailing that nailfie, to ensure clients book in for your services time and time again.

realistic expectations of what you’re capable of,” advises Robyn. “I edit my pictures using the app Adobe Lightroom, which is available on mobile, desktop and iPad. “I use it to take the redness down in pictures so clients’ hands have an even skin tone and to pick out certain colours on the manicure and make them pop, especially if they’re not translating well on screen.”

1. Prep and prime

“All the big nail tech accounts on Instagram have their own vibe, so finding a style that’s distinctively you will make you stand out on clients’ feed or get new customers to recognise your presence on the platform,” says Robyn. “Remember, a clean and simple background works wonders for pictures as it makes sure your audience isn’t distracted from the nails you’ve created.”

“Taking a good nailfie starts with the essentials – make sure your cuticle work is flawless, trim any hangnails and ensure you have a good base to start the manicure on,” explains Robyn. “At the end of treatment, rehydrate the client’s skin with hand cream and don’t leave any excess product around the nails. For example, apply cuticle oil but dry wipe it with a clean lint-free pad, especially around the nail folds, as the oil tends to blur everything in photos.”

2. Lighting is everything “Decent lighting will make all the difference to your pictures. As a mobile nail tech, good lighting can be one of the biggest obstacles because I never know what environment I’m going in to, so carry a daylight lamp or ring light in your kit as this will help hugely,” says Robyn. “Failing that, natural light can really brighten up pictures so try to take snaps near a window.”

3. Fine tune with an app “Photo editing can enhance your snaps but don’t overdo

4. Bespoke your branding

5. Invest in props “This is something I don’t do often but should really do more of. I know a lot of talented and popular nail techs who have props on hand for photos, be it flowers, fur or even a branded crystal. I like to include props when they’re relevant to the manicure I’ve just done, such as using a flower when the client has had flower print nail art,” explains Robyn. PB

Emma Robyn is a mobile nail tech and spray tan specialist working in London. Check out her work on Instagram at @emmarobynnails.

it so the pictures look fake as you want clients to have

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Operational Advice





sabotage sales

With retail sales set to be more important than ever once salons reopen, consultant Tanya Chernova reveals the common selling mistakes therapists make that could be hurting your bottom line


alons and spas are working harder than ever to meet client expectations while also generating a steady income for the business, but it seems that for some therapists, they tend to lose the

retail sale inside the hustle. Using my strategy, your therapy team will be able boost their average product sales per client, helping to grow your bottom line and their confidence in selling. These are the seven mistakes most therapists make when trying to retail and how to overcome them.

1. Not checking up on clients Most salons and spas send clients a satisfaction survey or request an online review instantly after a treatment, but what about also sending a check-in email with customers three to five days after they’ve visited your business? An automated email that says, “how are you?�, is great because it encourages clients to engage with you further about their treatment results or the products they bought from you. Embed a video with helpful skincare tips into the email and introduce them to your online store (if you have

Operational Advice

76 one) so they can buy the other products that they were on the fence about.

work to solve their problems. Having a “new in” section will help to build intrigue and create a buying desire.

2. Making assumptions

5. Lacking confidence

Sometimes, therapists can sell individual products without providing a clear step-by-step explanation as to how they fit in to a client’s daily routine. Through consumer research I conducted, I discovered that, on average, one in three clients feel confused or unsure about their daily skincare routine, and this leads to choice fatigue, product abandonment and diminished trust in future purchases. When selling products, ask clients what else they’re using in their routine and then walk them through a morning and evening ritual. Ask them to repeat what they heard and to ask any questions as this will build their trust in your judgement.

During a recent mystery shop I did, the therapist was applying a glycolic acid product to my skin and when I asked her if I should be using it at home she told me I could, but that there are also lots of other good options available on Amazon. I understood that her goal was to avoid being overly salesy but she was so uncomfortable owning her authority that it confused me and diminished my confidence in the brand the spa stocked. Test the sales or recommendation aptitude of your beauty therapists regularly and provide clear ways for them to make an offer without sounding too pushy so they feel more comfortable and prepared.

3. Leaving the product offer to the end Most clients leave the treatment room too relaxed to take in instructions properly, while others are in a rush to pick up their kids or get back to work. Therefore, it’s worth discussing your recommended at-home regime in the early, active parts of the visit – when clients are most alert. Model the application technique of each product for them and answer any questions. Also, make sure to come to an agreement on what they need and have it waiting for them at check out.

6. Not sharing the right information I recently had a facial and my beauty therapist made notes on the consultation form about what I needed homecare-wise. However, instead of discussing it with me, she handed it directly to the receptionist with the list of products that she used. This action led to poor communication between the therapist and me. You have to involve your client in the process and be more inclusive and transparent. Show the client their skin analysis, explain the reasoning behind your product choices and empower them to keep up the good work at home.

7. Waiting for questions “Don’t speak until spoken to” is an outdated rule that seems to live on in our industry. Being a reactive retailer means your clients will only receive your good advice when they are aware of their skin issue. As professionals, we are experts at identifying the early signs of ageing, acne and more on the skin, so we should be proactive in sharing this advice. Send a pre-arrival email to clients with the subject line: “Three questions to ask your beauty therapist”. In the body of the email, share your mission to educate your client on skin health so that they get the best treatment results, encouraging them to ask questions about their issues. List common questions such as, “Why is my skin flaking even with moisturiser?” to inspire them, and then explain that their beauty therapist will be happy to answer these questions and more during the service. Embrace your power to make a difference to everyone you PB

4. Having a boring retail area You need to create an interactive and educational retail station for clients so they can learn more about their skin and how your recommended products will

Tanya Chernova is a beauty and wellness consultant, author and World Spa & Wellness Awards judge. For more information on how to nurture clients between visits to grow your sales, email

support during NHBF


As the coronavirus outbreak continues and salons remain closed, the NHBF is continuing to do all it can to support both members and non-members in the beauty industry during this extremely anxious time


ur team has been working remotely for some weeks now but are doing an amazing job answering hundreds of members’ calls every week and putting out the latest available information on our website via our daily updates and detailed FAQs,” says National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) chief executive Hilary Hall. “This information is free to access for all those who work in the beauty business, as our priority is to help everyone in our industry get through this – we are stronger together.” The NHBF’s FAQs and updates can be found at its coronavirus information hub: coronavirus and on social media: @nhbfsocial

Support for NHBF members “Our support for members has included a two-month payment holiday, as well as ready-to-use documentation and letters, including client communications ( and furlough letters (,” says Hall. “Members also have access to free 24/7 legal support, which is proving invaluable at this time. We’d like to thank our members for their patience as both our membership and legal teams are currently inundated with calls.”

Understand what’s available The Government has been announcing a huge array of measures to help those who are affected by the current crisis. “It can seem a bit overwhelming, but our FAQs ( will take you through the information step by step,” says Hall. “It’s important to be aware of measures such as the Government’s jobretention scheme, which will pay 80% of employees’ wages; grants for the self-employed; and help that’s available if you need to defer your tax or VAT payments.”

The FAQs also cover key topics such as client requests for home appointments, how to keep premises safe while they are closed, and what the Government is doing to support apprenticeships. “New information is emerging all the time, so do check back often because we ensure our FAQs are kept up to date,” adds Hall.

Lobbying for the industry “Throughout this crisis, we have remained in close contact with key Government contacts to lobby for the best outcomes for our industry,” says Hall. “In many cases, we have pushed for clarity about various measures the Government has announced so that we can be clearer about the way forward. We also played a key role in pushing for greater financial support for the self-employed as so many of those who work in the beauty industry run their own independent businesses.”

The NHBF For less than 80p a day, the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) will work with you to support your beauty business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. Find out more at PB Join the NHBF before the end of May 2020 and quote PBM25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Join online at Or call us on 01234 831965

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The winners will be announced at a black-tie ceremony at London Hilton, Park Lane on Monday, November 02, 2020. For bookings and enquiries please visit


Industry Events


Out About

With all events postponed in recent weeks, we share the pre-social-distancing highlights

3D-LIPO 3D-POWERSCULPT LAUNCH 3D-LIPO HEAD OFFICE, RUGBY More than 20 UK clinic owners, as well as some celebrity guests, came to see the latest muscletoning technology at the launch of 3D-Powersculpt. 3D-lipo managing director Roy Cowley unveiled the new device, telling attendees that just one treatment is equivalent to 20,000 crunches or squats. Reality TV star Danielle Lloyd was at the event and experienced the treatment first hand. Personal trainer Mike Hind and professional bikini athlete Ashleigh Jackson also attended to understand how the 3D-Powersculpt can benefit the fitness industry. Guests were then able to experience the treatment for themselves, with live demos from the team of trainers. 3D-lipo’s business development managers were also on hand throughout the day to answer questions.

SALON SYSTEM CAMPAIGN SHOOT STUDIO 8, THE WORX, LONDON PB’s deputy editor Amanda Pauley was invited behind the scenes at Salon System’s 2020 campaign shoot to get a sneak peek at the brand’s new lifestyle imagery for the summer and winter months. Salon System’s lash expert Ruth Atkins created natural, fluffy lash looks on models using a mixture of Naturalash Natural and Lashlux lashes in 003, 108, 109 and 116, while nail tech Julie-Anne Larivière did sophisticated nude manicures using Gellux Cover Pink Base Coat. Amanda also got a sneak peek at a new lash product from Salon System, which will launch in the autumn, as well as a chance to quiz the pros on the hottest nail and lash trends for this year, which you can watch on PB’s IGTV.

80 Industry Events

ISHGA CONFERENCE 2020 KIMPTON BLYTHSWOOD HOTEL, GLASGOW Spa brand Ishga held its first partner and distributor event in February, bringing together the company’s leading spa accounts for a day of education and networking. Ishga co-founders and co-directors Malcolm Macrae and Leon Trayling gave attendees an insight into new product development (NPD) for 2020, which includes three launches – a cleansing balm, soap and body spray. This was followed by a healthy seaweed-inspired lunch and a talk by spa consultant Jacqueline Ross on “The retail challenge and solutions”, as well as one-to-one networking sessions. Ishga is planning on partnering with Cutitronics on a future launch, a company that is looking into how high-tech skin analysis tools combined with app-based technology can determine skin needs. The brand also welcomed new distributors from Australia, Germany and the USA.

DR RUSSO PRODUCT LAUNCH URBAN RETREAT AT THE WHITE HOUSE, LONDON Dr Luca Russo held an intimate press gathering over breakfast snacks to introduce the latest additions to his sun care product range – Once a Day Sun Protection Face Gel Bronzer SPF30 and After Sun. Both products have a brush-on mechanism that delivers the exact dose of product (2mg) with each click to cover a cm2 area of the face; the amount required to achieve the level of protection advertised on the product. The new launches join existing SPF30 and SPF50 brush-on sun protection. At the event, Dr Russo talked through the products’ technology and ingredients, spoke about common sun protection myths and gave his guidance on how best to protect the skin.

FUTURE OF BEAUTY REPORT LAUNCH THE HOSPITAL CLUB, LONDON PB’s content writer Eleanor Vousden attended a presentation and panel discussion in March to hear how businesses can adapt to cater for the needs of generation Z (who are aged between four and 24). The report, compiled by The Pull Agency, highlighted the importance of targeting this generation, which now accounts for 33% of the population with a combined spending powder of £7 billion. The panellists included experts from Microsoft, M&S Beauty and Schwarzkopf Professional, who discussed the emerging technologies that are shaping the beauty industry. One prediction included that generation Z would use services such as Google Assist (a virtual personal assistant) that can phone a beauty salon on the client’s behalf to book beauty treatments.




Lashes that

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2020 RELIEF FUND We urgently need your help to build signi cant funds to enable us to support professionals in the hair and beauty industry who are facing sudden hardship. Please give what you can today. Together we can get through this. justgiving/campaign/relie und

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83 Treatment news

Thalgo Spiruline Boost Smoothing Detoxifying Treatment Using products from its new Spiruline Boost range, Thalgo’s latest treatment aims to combat the effects of pollution, making it great for clients exposed to urban aggressors. It begins with detoxifying massage movements to release tension from the skin. Then, a finger massage is combined with a nutrient-packed facial mist, before a spirulina and magnesium-infused mask is applied with a brush to drip-feed actives into the skin and draw out impurities. A hand massage is given while the mask sets and before it is peeled away. Next, an energising serum is massaged in, focusing on the décolletage, neck and eyes to enhance the skin’s absorption of the ingredients and reduce signs of fatigue. The treatment concludes with an energising eye cream and moisturiser. A Spiruline Boost Shot is then given to the client to drink, to help protect against oxidative stress from the inside out. Thalgo recommends charging £60 (£70 in London) for a 60-minute facial. Call the brand on 020 7512 0872



From anti-pollution facials to Russian saunas, the latest treatments promise to help your clients to both detoxify and re-energise

This month we tried… Banya No. 1 Parenie and Salt Scrub treatment The lowdown: Parenie is the signature treatment of the Russian banya experience and I was invited to London’s Banya No 1 to try it. The banya – a Russian sauna – is heated to around 70ºC, but at a much higher humidity than a standard sauna. Bundles of oak, birch and eucalyptus twigs (known as “venik”) are wafted to work the steam upwards, before it is beaten and pressed down on to the body. Parenie treatments are designed to boost circulation and relieve tension. The experience: After entering the banya, I was instructed to lie face-down on a wooden bench, with a bundle of wet leaves placed around my head to prevent overheating. The banshiks (traditional Russian therapists) then proceeded to alternate between rapidly striking the twigs down and a forceful press on each part of my back. Once I’d turned over, the process was repeated across my front. I was asked if I was comfortable with the heat and whether I would like more steam. For the final part, I sat up on the bench and raised my arms so the venik could be applied across my sides. Once the parenie was complete, I was invited to

lower my body temperature by tipping a bucket of cold water over my head before taking a dip in a plunge pool. Having quickly cooled down, I was brought in to a separate room to lie on a hot stone. An organic honey and sea salt scrub was then vigorously applied, removing dead cells and nourishing my skin. After showering, I relaxed with a herbal tea in the spacious rest area. The verdict: The banya experience is certainly different to a traditional sauna, but combined with the parenie, I found it to be very therapeutic. While the heat and cold can feel intense, the process of the leaves being struck down on to your body is actually relatively painless. I felt re-invigorated after both treatments and my skin felt noticeably softer for many days afterwards. Business benefits: A Russian banya is still a relatively new concept to the British market, helping it stand out from traditional saunas. As such, parenie is a memorable experience, and the relatively short treatment times allow for a quick turnover of clients. Tried by Chris Halpin A three-hour session with parenie and scrub costs from £95 at Banya No. 1. Contact: 020 7253 6723










May 2020 |


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Skincare brand Dermalogica has launched Invisible Physical Defense SPF30, a weightless, ultra-sheer physical sunscreen that blends easily on all skin tones and defends against UVA and UVB damage. Ingredients include zinc-oxide; a bioactive mushroom complex that helps soothe skin and reduce UVinduced redness and dryness; and antioxidant green tea to fight free-radical skin damage. There are no chemical sunscreens, artificial colours or fragrances included, and the product is certified cruelty-free, gluten-free and suitable for vegans. Trade: £23.70 each

Medik8’s Illuminating Eye Balm is a brightening and hydrating formula that minimises dark circles, puffiness and signs of tiredness in the eye area. Illuminating mineral pigments and optical diffusers reflect light to soften the appearance of dark circles, while cucumber extract provides a cooling, refreshing and revitalising feel. Red algae extract is also included for its fast action against puffiness and ability to regulate osmotic pressure in the under-eye area, as well as hyaluronic acid and glycerine to draw moisture from the lower layers of the skin. Trade: £32 020 8712 6020

0800 9177 147

Seeing the LIGHT

As the days get brighter, the pro brands have created some super-smart suncare and some ultra-light hydrators for a fresh finish

Celluma Therapeutic LED light therapy specialist BioPhotas has announced a major reinvigoration of its Celluma Series, introducing the Celluma iPro. Much like the FDA-cleared and medical CE-marked professionalsized LED panel device Celluma Pro, the iPro is used for treating a variety of skin, muscle and joint conditions. However, it is battery-powered, meaning it has the added ability of being usable anywhere and at any time. A new battery-powered version of Celluma Lite has also been launched, and this update will be offered to any previously sold device with the exception of the Celluma Delux. Trade: £1,995 07767 367070

New Products


New Products

86 Oritree Oritree is launching Pre Wax Cleansing Spray and After Wax Treatment Lotion, both of which feature fig and geranium rose for deep cleansing and a calming scent, as well as to provide immediate comfort by reducing redness and leaving skin soft and nourished. Geranium rose oil is renowned for its ability to restore the balance of the skin’s natural oils, while fig fruit extract offers a boost of antioxidants directly to the skin. Trade: £4.60 each 0845 450 4802 (Hive)

CND CND has devloped 15 new Shellac colours. The range, previously only available as Vinylux, includes denim-tone Grey; chocolate-grey Phantom; brown-mauve Grace; bright red Liberte; raspberry Femme Fatale; dark purple Temptation; grape-tone Brazen; soft pink Satin Slippers; candycoloured Aurora; bright plum Vivant; pink-coral Charm; beige Boheme; champagne Chandelier; deep Black Cherry; and stone Silhouette. Trade: £13.95 each 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared)

Refectocil Salon System brand Refectocil has launched the Browista Toolkit – a four-in-one kit including one spoolie with wide brush, designed for covering the lashes with tint; one spoolie with small brush for precise work on the brows; and two application dishes. Also new is Refectocil Browista Palette, suitable for both left- and right-handed therapists, with two sections for eyelash and eyebrow tint that can be mixed simultaneously. The material is chemically resistant and easy to clean. Trade: £15 for Browista Toolkit; £9.95 for Browista Palette 020 8573 9907 (Salon System)

Image Skincare Image Skincare is introducing two new lines. The Max uses a microburst delivery system to protect its key ingredients until the moment they disperse on the skin. Included in this range is Wrinkle Smoother, combining a wrinkle-fighting peptide, lifting polymer and plant stem cells; and Contour Gel Crème, which targets sagging skin and redefines facial contours. Also new is the Prevention+ range, including an array of suncare moisturisers, such as Hydrating, Tinted and Protection variations, as well as a Lip Enhancer. Trade: £110 for Max Contour Gel Crème; £80 for Max Wrinkle Smoother 0345 504 0461

Due to lockdown Crisis – we are doing special offers post lockdown* Level 5 CPD accredited Aesthetic Courses • Chemical Peel/Dermaplaning • Micro needling • Chemical peels (30%) Anti- aging, Whitening and Clarifying used in conjunction with

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3-day course in Milton Keynes and 1-day remote assessment reduced from £1500 to £960 special offer can be secured with just £99 deposit REGISTER YOUR INTEREST NOW BY VISITING WWW.BEAUTUITION.CO.UK/LOCKDOWN-OFFER OR CALL 01908 310372 USE THIS CODE TO CLAIM THIS SPECIAL DISCOUNT – 23364

*As soon as restrictions are lifted, we will contact you with available dates We have implemented new health and safety measures with each of our courses and we will comply with all Government regulations.

We look forward to seeing you soon, in the meantime please keep safe. Our accreditations and partners

New Products



Dr Renaud

Sweet Squared’s Lecenté returns with its Spring Nail Shadows, featuring eight new pastel shades of Amethyst, Ballet Pink, Perfect Peach and Powder Blue. The range allows techs to create ombré and fade designs, as well as encapsulated looks when mixed with acrylics and hard gels. Also new is long-lasting, soak-off Create Builder Gel,

The latest addition to the skincare brand’s Apricot BB Daily Perfection Care range is Apricot BB Blur – a lightweight, non-oily formula designed to blur pores, wrinkles and fine lines. It has been created using 98% natural ingredients. Also new is White Mulberry Dark Spot Corrector and Brightening Serum, with organic white mulberry extract, sea daffodil and a phyto depigmenting complex. Trade: £13.50 for Apricot BB Blur; £19.90 for White Mulberry Dark Spots Corrector and Brightening Serum 01280 817881

which is self-levelling for simple application, easy to file and shape, and lasts up to four weeks. The gel removes in 20 minutes after filing, is HEMA-free and made from a hypoallergenic formula. Trade: £3.99 each for Spring Nail Shadows; £15.99 for 18ml Create Builder Gel 0113 217 3803 (Sweet Squared)

Caudalie Expanding on its range of suncare products released last year, Caudalie has created Tan Prolonging After-Sun Lotion. With a non-sticky texture, the lotion leaves skin feeling refreshed and soothed, accompanied by scents of monoi, white flowers and coconut milk. Ingredients include Fairtrade coconut oil, known for its nourishing properties; antioxidantrich grape water to eliminate free radicals; aloe vera for its healing abilities; and natural pea extract, which prolongs the tan and offers antiageing properties. RRP: £15 020 7720 7111

Skinceuticals The new Double Defense Kits by Skinceuticals are designed to tackle the signs of ageing induced by ozone pollution and daily UV damage. Included in the first kit is triple antioxidant formula C E Ferulic and lightweight sunscreen Ultra Facial Defence SPF 50+. The second kit contains triple-antioxidant Phloretin CF, and moisturising sunscreen Brightening UV Defense SPF 30, while the third contains AOX Eye Gel and Mineral Eye UV Defense SPF 30. Also new is the dual-action Advanced Brightening UV Defense Sunscreen SPF 50, offering skin brightening benefits in as little as 12 weeks. Trade: from £44.92 to £87.50 for the kits; £26.23 for Advanced Brightening UV Defense Sunscreen SPF 50 0800 028 2331

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New Products

90 Institut Esthederm


The latest addition to the brand’s suncare range is Photo Reverse Tinted, which provides hyperpigmented skin with protection from UVA and UVB rays and photoageing, while also giving it a natural-looking tint. This anti-dark spot face product is designed to make the complexion appear brighter and more even and to protect skin cells against the formation of new pigmentation spots caused by UV damage. Trade: £55 07523 909277

Hydra Dew Pure Oil is for skin that is dry or has been compromised by external aggressors such as pollution and UV light, or exfoliating skin treatments such as microdermabrasion and chemical peels. Combining the brand’s pure laminaria digitata seaweed extract with natural oils mastic, organic cannabis sativa seed and camellia japonica seed, the product can be used during facials to calm inflammation and reduce the visible signs of ageing on the skin. Trade: £65 0800 731 7546


Clarins Clarins has launched several new products: Lip Comfort Oil Intense offers an ultra-pigmented mirror-like effect in five shades; Velvet Lip Perfectors which come in four velvet-matte shades; the seventh generation of its ExtraFirming Neck cream for long-term lifting, using mitracarpus and oat sugars; and its Summer Make-Up Collection, which includes a micropatch vegetal enriched Sunkissed Bronzing Powder, SOS Primer in Rosy Gold and Amber, and Ombré Satin Eyeshadow in Glossy Brown or Coral. Trade: £50 for Extra-Firming Neck; £19 for Lip Comfort Oil Intense; £18.50 for Velvet Lip Perfector; £32 for Sunkissed Bronzing Powder; £27 for SOS Primer; £20 for Satin Eyeshadow 01279 774215

Following the success of its lavender-scented Perfect Night’s Sleep range, Neom has created Bedtime Hero, an alernative range based on chamomile for those who dislike or are sensitive to lavender. The blend combines 11 pure essential oils, including ylang ylang and cedarwood, providing a fruity and fresh scent with a relaxing effect on the mind and body. The range includes a Three Wick Candle; Pillow Mist, Bath Foam, Essential Oil Blend and a Magnesium Body Butter. Trade: £46 for candle; £22 for Bath Foam; £20 for Essential Oil Blend; £36 for Magnesium Body Butter £20 for Pillow Mist (RRP) 01423 878810



CALL GABRIEL LARTEY on 020 3841 7376 or email


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Career Path


How to make it as a...



Michelle Brookes, founder and manager of the Michelle Brookes Training Academy in Doncaster, breaks down the responsibilities of being an educator

1. Be driven to keep achieving “I began training in a small way back in 1998 and as it developed I got my own courses accredited through Professional Beauty Direct and ABT. Now, I’m a BrillBird educator and distributor, but I also teach Governmentfunded courses through Skills North East. “When I was first training with BrillBird I remember thinking, ‘What am I doing here? I’m not good enough’. I got it into my head that I couldn’t post pictures of my work online because I wasn’t ready. However, not long after that I was invited to the educators camp where I received a Master’s certificate in nail art, which is something I never believed I could achieve. It really boosted my confidence. “Even now, I’m always pushing myself to learn. Working with beginners is so valuable, but I really enjoy teaching the more advanced nail techniques because it tests my skills as well.”

2. Learn to motivate others “I’ve always said that being a good nail tech doesn’t necessarily mean you’re a good educator. On top of having the right nail skills, you’ve got to be kind, considerate and have a level of authority about you. “I get techs to fill out reflective journals after each session and I usually see things written down like: ‘I’m not confident enough,’ or ‘I could cry’. As an educator you have to be strong enough to say: ‘This is where you’re going wrong and I want you to try again. By the end of this course, I guarantee you’ll be confident’. Constant feedback and support throughout the process is crucial.”

important that I still have that presence within the salon because it means I can support my staff and keep up to date with what clients want, which is so crucial when you’re teaching. “Sometimes I think I take a little too much on, but it’s about being honest about how much you can actually do. Having close contact with regular clients means I can say, ‘unfortunately, I’m not available this week, but I can do the week after’, and they understand.”

4. Get organised “It’s important to remember that you’re doing more than just teaching somebody how to do nails. You need to make sure you’ve planned the course content, have the correct handouts, have filled out the paperwork and have done the required research, as well as everything in between. “Especially with our VTCT courses, we have to teach things like equality, diversity and safeguarding – i.e. doing treatments on under-16s and the insurance requirements – and I like to contextualise it within the industry, which means finding different sources and articles that are current. Time management is vital because there’s so much to do outside of the classroom.”

5. Share your struggles

“Monday to Wednesday I’m based at my academy, where I teach a range of courses including BrillBird, VTCT and Skills North East. Then, Thursday, Friday and sometimes Saturday, I work in my salon doing treatments

“I always talk about my experiences as a learning technician, specifically what I’ve struggled with when I’ve trained in different techniques. “I also make my learners reflect on where they’ve started and where they are currently, sitting their designs side by side and pointing out how much practice can improve their work. “I always say it’s a journey and eventually they’ll get to where they want to be. I enjoy inspiring others to do what I did six years ago. The best thing is seeing students finally believing in themselves; seeing their work on social media

on regular clients. Even though I’m teaching a lot, it’s

and thinking, ‘I taught you that.’ It’s so lovely.” PB

3. Stay in touch with your salon roots

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Successful online stores, blogs, appointment bookings, portfolios and online campaigns all start with a good website. Ensuring your site works well on smartphones as well as computers is essential for modern businesses, allowing clients to find you in the way they feel most comfortable.

Having a good website is only half the battle, you also need your target audience to find your business online. Luckily there are a number of clever things you can do to maximise your chances of being shown on search engines such as Google and Bing when people search for your services.

Online advertising covers all sorts of paid media on platforms such as Instagram, Google and even Youtube. The best thing about this tool is that you only pay when people click through to your website. You can target very specific groups of people and the ads quickly pay for themselves.

Melt away clients’ aches, pains, and tension while releasing energy flow, using freestyle hands with soothing self-heating Tiger clam shells. The Sensory Retreats Lavashells Touch Massage Collection is now available for post graduate therapists for just £179 + VAT CLICK HERE TO BUY NOW This is a full-body TOUCH massage which uses 3 Tiger Clam Lavashells. It’s an indulgent and truly pampering massage guaranteed to create a sense of bliss that balances body and mind. | |