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Regulars 7 News 74% of UK salons and spas will be ready to reopen by July 4; consumer beauty buying habits during Covid-19 are revealed 21 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 22 Digital direction Web jargon busted: PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin explains what these digital terms really mean 27 Insider Coronavirus special: how salons and spas have been impacted, and how they are surviving 35 Ward’s world Hellen Ward on keeping your team and clients safe when you finally reopen 39 Ask the experts Correcting a dodgy microblading job, perfecting your facial waxing technique and getting your spray tanning product ratio right 71 Nail notes Metta Francis reveals how to charge what you’re worth as a mobile nail tech and get it 77 Treatment news Shared Beauty Secrets’ social distancing back massage and Katherine Daniels’s peel and LED combo facial 81 New products Hot summer launches from Light Elegance and Mii; get to grips with Dermalogica’s new Retinol Clearing Oil 88 Career Path Skincare and tanning pro Michaella Bolder reveals how to make it as a celebrity therapist and land regular TV work

Features

On the cover

47 Talking to… Marian Newman The powerhouse tech reveals how she made it as one of the biggest names in nails, as well as giving us details on a new education and training project she is due to launch later on this year

53 Get ready to reopen We round-up the leading industry bodies’ coronavirus safety procedure guidelines you will need to follow when you reopen. Plus, download PB’s exclusive checklist poster so clients know you’re following the right protocols

64 Is it time to join forces? Dr Kim Prescott explains how to partner with a nurse in your salon to offer more advanced treatments like botox and filler, and how this collaboration could benefit both parties if done right 75 Operational advice We reveal five digital marketing techniques that are guaranteed to boost sales when you reopen, from mastering your website’s SEO to launching new social media initiatives

59 Crack the code You need to prepare every aspect of your salon business for reopening, and that includes updating your software. Use these handy tools to manage your cash flow successfully and execute your email marketing 66 N  atural selection There is a lot of jargon in the beauty world, which is why we’re explaining the difference between two of the biggest terms – natural and organic

Cover image: Hair: Miquel Garcia and Revlon Professional Artistic Team – Ingrid Kadlecova, Una Radivojevic, Kirsten McKintosh, Krystal Malchuk and Paco Garrigues Make-up: Dani Rull Styling: Belen Antolin Photography: Miguel Reveriego

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Contents

June

Contents

3


Editor’s Comment

4

Our latest survey of the beauty and spa market showed that 74% feel ready to safely reopen their businesses on July 4 if allowed to do so (see page 7). And while we may still be lacking specific instruction from Government on the measures the industry will be required to put in place ahead of reopening, we are at least armed with detailed guidance documents from the industry bodies that have been meeting with Government to push for answers. Our “get ready to reopen” feature (page 53) summarises the steps that the experts are advising salons, spas, nail techs and self-employed practitioners to take now in order to safely treat clients and protect themselves and their teams. You’ll also find a printable poster to help you reassure clients about the measures you’re implementing. While opinion may be divided as to when we should reopen and whether treatment menus should change (see page 21 for just a few of the thoughts that PB readers have shared), the solidarity shown by the beauty profession throughout this pandemic has been incredible. Everyone I’ve spoken to for our daily webinar series has commented that the main thing getting them through this incredibly tough time is the support from their peers in the industry, be that the associations, publications like ours, the countless social media groups that have been set up, or just by pickng up the phone for a chat. Coming together to share advice, ideas and encouragement has helped us to feel a little less alone in navigating this “coronacoaster”, as Hellen Ward refers to it on page 35. So, as you prepare your business for reopening, I hope you’ll find the advice and support you need in this issue, and don’t forget to keep an eye on our constantly updated online Coronavirus Support Guide.

Editor

@Pro_Beauty01

@Pro_Beauty

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SUBSCRIBE CORONAVIRUS CLOSURE SUPPORT OFFER: 6 FREE DIGITAL ISSUES: Sign up here Usual prices Gold Membership UK: £37; Europe: £59; outside Europe: £67.50 To receive your copy of Professional Beauty every month call 01371 851875 or visit hairandbeauty.escosubs.co.uk Silver Membership: £10 To view full issues on your desktop, tablet or smartphone, see hairandbeauty.escosubs.co.uk Published by Trades Exhibitions Ltd Editorial enquiries: 020 7351 0536 editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk Advertising enquiries: 020 7351 0536 The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

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Subscriptions enquiries: 01371 851875 professionalbeauty@escosubs.co.uk Head of editorial: Eve Oxberry eve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7378 Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley amanda@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9064 Content writer: Eleanor Vousden eleanor@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7362 Social media editor: Chris Halpin chris@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7368 Intern: Kieran Read kieran@professionalbeauty.co.uk Sales director: Steve James steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Peter Bishop peter@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7364

Jack Diamond jack@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4792 Amanda Strange amanda.s@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4793 Classified and recruitment sales: Gabriel Lartey gabriel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7376 Publisher: Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4799 Design and production: Senior designer: Jaqui Palmer jaqui@professionalbeauty.co.uk Designers : Alex Charlton-Roberts alex.c@professionalbeauty.co.uk Daniel Parker daniel@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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7 News

News 74% of UK beauty salons and spas are ready to reopen by July 4 Almost three quarters (74%) of UK beauty businesses, including salons, spas, clinics and mobile/home-based therapists, will be ready to reopen by July 4 or earlier, found Professional Beauty’s Covid-19 Survey. Some 1,400 people who work within the beauty industry responded to PB’s survey between May 21–26, 2020, providing valuable insight into how the sector is planning to reopen successfully. The highest proportion (44%) selected July 4 as the date they feel most ready to open their doors again – which is the Government’s estimated date for salons to begin reopening in England, while a further 30% said they are ready to reopen before then. However, 26% believe they won’t be able to safely do so until a later date (past July 4).

Using the beauty salon and spa-specific data from the survey (794 respondents), we delved deeper into the results of how these businesses are getting ready to reopen. By July 4, more than half (65%) will have rearranged their premises to maximise social distancing, and 92% will be requiring staff to wear masks, gloves and other relevant PPE. Many are investing in hygiene

and safety training during this time of closure – 39% had done this before June 1, while 10% plan to do this by June 15 and 25% by July 4, the survey found. Many are also undertaking an assessment of their services to ensure the treatments they offer are safe. More than a quarter (26%) plan to do a review by July 4, while 11% will by June 15 and 21% by June 1. Less than a fifth of respondents (16%) feel it’s unnecessary to adjust their services. As the industry moves forward towards reopening, PB has launched its “We are Ready” campaign – where industry icons highlight the measures beauty pros are putting in place to protect their customers and teams. The video features major names such as nail tech Marian Newman and brow queen Karen Betts. Watch it here.

APPG demands clear reopening instructions from Government

The All-Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) on Beauty, Aesthetics and Wellbeing has issued a “call to action” to ask the Government for clearer instructions for reopening. The group includes representatives

from trade bodies Babtac, NHBF and the UK Spa Association. Its demands include: • Provide clear instructions and advance warning on when beauty and wellness businesses can reopen and what treatments they can offer, including for services within hospitality businesses such as hotels, and

closed doors risking public health, and explain how to report noncompliance • Better protection against risks of modern slavery as businesses reopen. APPG co-chairs Carolyn Harris MP and Judith Cummins MP said: “The industry has expressed loud and clear the need for clarity on when

what grades of PPE must be used • Ensure industry access to affordable PPE to protect staff and customers • Crack down on rogue operators continuing to sell services behind

businesses can reopen and for consistent rules on PPE use. Without this, the long-term repercussions of the pandemic could leave many with no choice but to close their doors for good.” professionalbeauty.co.uk


News

8

inbrief

// World Wellness Weekend, founded by consultant Jean-Guy de Gabriac, has launched its new website world-wellness-weekend.org, which now facilitates 11 languages such as Arabic and Hindi, a “one-click geo-locator” for finding nearby wellness professionals, and a Wellness Pledge to promote positivity. Also newly available is online registration and a wellness blog. // London Lash Pro has won a prestigious Queen’s Award for Enterprise in recognition of international trade and “outstanding short-term growth”. Hanna Putjato, managing director of London Lash Pro said the award was “a true honour”. // Salons across the UK have sold more than £1 million in gift vouchers during Covid-19 lockdown, according to stats published by Phorest Salon Software in late April. During the first three weeks of April, the average gift voucher sale was worth £69. // Look Good Feel Better has launched virtual workshops in support of people undergoing cancer treatments, providing emotional and practical support. The sessions are hosted by trained experts, who will offer advice on combating the visible side effects of treatment, as well as an opportunity to chat and share experiences. // Leah Durrant Salons Group has created window displays to show its support for the NHS and key workers during the coronavirus pandemic. It has also announced the introduction of a Priority Club as a means of controlling its bookings when salons are finally safe to reopen.

New Covid-19 safety measures at Professional Beauty London The Professional Beauty Group has introduced new Covid-19 safety measures for the PB London show on October 11–12, 2020, in partnership with ExCeL London. “The wellbeing of all who visit and work in our exhibitions is our number-one priority. We have implemented a series of measures to enhance safety and these will be revised and updated over the coming weeks,” said Mark Moloney, managing director of the Professional Beauty Group. The new measures include: • Timed entry to spread the flow of visitors – all who attend the event will be asked to select a preferred entry time on registering • Smartphone entry tickets to cease queues – e-tickets will replace printed tickets with limited collections on-site • Online booking throughout to limit

waiting – all tickets will be available to book, both before the event and while it is taking place • Strict sanitisation measures – intense cleaning of all areas of the venue and exhibition stands and features • Widespread availability of hand sanitisers • Longer opening times • Strict trade and professional-only policy. No general public will be permitted; this is to restrict numbers and ensure an enhanced environment for genuine industry professionals.

Employers asked to contribute to Job Retention Scheme The Chancellor has announced updates to its job retention scheme, with employers required to start contributing to its furloughed employees’ salaries. From August, employers will be required to pay employees’ National Insurance and pension contributions. From September, the Government will reduce the furlough pay from 80% to 70% (capping at £2,190) and from

October, this will then taper to 60%, (capping at £1,875). Employers will then need to top up the rest of the salaries to 80% of pre-Covid levels. After October, the job retention scheme will end. Until the end of July, there will be no changes to the scheme, which currently sees the Government grant covering 80% of the salary of furloughed workers, up to the sum of £2,500 per month and backdated to March 1. Additionally, the SelfEmployment Income Support Scheme has been extended and will pay out one additional single grant for up to 70% of income, covering the three months to the end of August, and capped at £6,570. professionalbeauty.co.uk


Higher style. Higher power.

HIGHER iQ Laser hair removal continues to be a huge market. With over 13 million treatments expected in 2020, are you ready to offer your patients the best?1

Enter Elite iQ. Featuring Skintel®, the aesthetic industry’s only melanin reader, Elite iQ enables you to customize treatments based on objective melanin measurements, giving you ultimate confidence in the safety and effectiveness of the treatment. LEARN MORE

1 2020 data. Energy-Based Ax Devices. Medical Insight, Inc. October 2019. *Compared to previous generation devices. The Elite iQ aesthetic workstation is indicated for the following, but not limited to: permanent hair reduction and treatment of veins, noncancerous pigmentation, wrinkles, warts, scars and ingrown facial hairs. Common side effects include redness, swelling, crusting and scabbing. Other side effects may include blistering, burns, hives and lightening and darkening of the skin. Like all medical procedures, not all patients are suitable for the treatment. A qualified practitioner is solely responsible for evaluating each subject’s suitability to undergo treatment and for informing those being treated about any risks involved with the treatment, pre-and postoperative care, and any other relevant information. Individual results may vary and are not guaranteed. ©2020 Cynosure, LLC. All rights reserved. Cynosure, Elite iQ and Skintel are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of Cynosure, LLC. Cynosure, LLC owns exclusive rights to photography. Use of photography without written permission of Cynosure is prohibited. PRD_3507


Evolution of the ELITE

L

From laser hair removal’s humble beginings to Cynosure’s Elite iQ revolution

asers have been used for hair removal from as far back as the 1960s, albeit fairly unsuccessfully due to a lack of long-term results. Laser therapy was revolutionised in the 1980s by Rox Anderson and John Parrish’s theory of selective photothermolysis – the use of a specific wavelength to achieve the destruction of a specific target molecule while minimising thermal damage to surrounding tissue. Perfecting the pulse duration and intensity of laser energy, Dr Rox Anderson and Dr Melanin Grossman laid the foundation of modern hair removal, with their group out of the Wellmann Laboratory of Photomedicine, Harvard Medical School in Boston, US. They presented work in early 1997 on the use of the ruby 695 nm laser for permanent hair removal. This early work had its limitations, which led to the adoption of the Alexandrite laser, with its slightly longer 755 nm wavelength more efficient for targeting the stem cells and causing miniaturisation of the terminal hair follicles. Neither of these wavelengths, however, are the optimal choice for darker skin types because of their absorption characteristics into melanin. The Neodynium-doped Yttrium Aluminium Garnet, or Nd:YAG, is safer for the higher melanin content found in the higher Fitzpatrick skin types as its invisible infrared light, at 1064nm, has a lower absorption into melanin that bypasses the surface colour of the skin. The Alexandrite 755 nm and the Nd:YAG 1064nm have become the industry standards for hair reduction, each optimised for a different patient population.

Cynosure’s early developments The first Alexandrite laser model that Cynosure designed was the Apogee 6200, about 20 years ago, and it only had the wavelength of 755nm. In 2003, the Nd:YAG laser was added and the device was renamed “Elite” and included both wavelengths, for optimal hair removal across all Fitzpatrick skin types from I to VI. Some years later, in 2009, proprietary technology that sequentially combines wavelengths to combine clinical effects was launched by Cynosure with the Elite MPX. professionalbeauty.co.uk

With this device, clinicians had the ability to choose treatment with a single wavelength or a combination (in a sequential mode). Combining synergistic wavelengths in Multiplex modality allows for a safer treatment profile with lower total fluence. The Elite MPX also had an integrated cold air system, making it more compact, and an IPL handpiece for aesthetic treatments. In 2012, a new Elite and Apogee with larger spot sizes, up to 18mm in diameter, started to be used, under the names of Elite+ and Apogee+. Then in 2014, Cynosure increased the spot sizes, offering larger diameters like 20, 22 and 24mm for deeper penetration of energy into the tissue. This, together with a higher repetition rate, were key advantages for optimising treatments and the Elite+ achieved industry recognition for its efficacy and treatment flexibility when it was shortlisted for device of the year at last year’s Aesthetic Awards.

Current advances The most recent advancement in 2020 is the Elite iQ, which represents a revolution in the hair removal market, since this new device incorporates Skintel, a melanin reader, which can give an accurate measurement of the skin melanin content to better guide treatment test spot settings and identify skin colouration changes throughout the course of a patient’s treatments. The Skintel has been an invaluable resource on other hair removal lasers in the Cynosure portfolio for over 15 years, providing clinic reassurance for the selection of safe and effective treatment parameters for each individual. The Elite iQ builds on the legacy of Cynosure’s gold-standard Elite laser family but is faster and more efficacious since it has a higher maximum energy for both Alexandrite (+19%) and Nd:YAG (+43%). The Elite iQ is cleared for hair reduction in all Fitzpatrick Skin Types, I-VI, and includes the treatment of tanned skin, allowing the patient’s hair-removal journey to continue during summer. It is also cleared for treatment of pseudo folliculitis barbae, benign pigmented lesions, vascular lesions and wrinkles, offering a comprehensive range of clinic treatment options from one device. PB

Promotional Feature

11


News

12

inbrief

More than a third of aesthetic treatments take place in salons

// Elemis has partnered with British designer Olivia Rubin to create ranges packaged in three exclusive bags. The bags feature Rubin’s signature rainbow designs. There is a For Her version, with seven Elemis skincare favourites, a For Him collection with five products and a smaller bag of minis. // Dermalux manufacturer Aesthetic Technology has developed a regulatory compliant ventilator to help the NHS. The portable Aesthetic Technology C-19 Ventilator is based on an existing design for which the company has a worldwide permissive licence from Medtronic to manufacture during the pandemic. // Premier Software has pledged support for the Low Ears campaign. The initiative was launched by The Potting Shed Spa owner Sam Pearce to offer professional services to help protect the emotional wellbeing of spa workers. The Low Ears dog icon will be added to Core by Premier Software. // Celluma Light Therapy, in collaboration with The Wynyard Aesthetics Academy, has launched its online Light Therapy Certification programme, named The Science Behind Light Therapy and its Clinical Application. The course consists of three, one-hour learning segments taught by aesthetic nurse Pam Cushing.

Some 39% of aesthetic treatments are now taking place in beauty salons, while just under half (49%) are happening within aesthetic practices or clinics run by medics, according to a survey from the National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF). Microneedling and chemical peels are the most commonly provided non-invasive aesthetics treatments, with the majority of these performed by aesthetic therapists in beauty salons. Other popular non-invasive treatments include microblading and laser. The survey, which had 412 respondents, found that the majority of these treatments are performed by aesthetic therapists (116) – those with

Coronavirus impacts consumers’ beauty buying behaviour same month in 2019. Positive reviews from family and friends also mattered more – important to 37% of consumers in 2019, rising to 44% in 2020. While the price of a product still remains the number-one factor for choosing a beauty product, its influence dropped from 90% to 88%, while professional recommendations rose considerably, from 23% to 32%.

// BC Softwear has updated its wellness teddy bear in support of the NHS during coronavirus. Now available as The Rainbow Teddy, the bear has a rainbow on the back of its dressing gown. All profits will be donated to the NHS Charities Together fund.

Consumers’ beauty purchasing behaviour has changed during the coronavirus pandemic, according to a survey from The Skin Health Alliance. It showed that brand loyalty rose by 12% during April, compared to the

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a Level 3 beauty qualification and further aesthetics training; followed by nurses (86), aesthetic practitioners (48) and Level 3-trained beauty therapists with no additional aesthetics training or education (33). The NHBF stated that these results suggest many beauty salons and aesthetic practices are working in partnership with nurses or other medical practitioners to provide non-surgical aesthetic treatments. Of those businesses that require medical oversight, more than half (61%) have a medic on-site, more than a quarter (28%) have a medic on call and a smaller number (11%) have a remote medic.

Other important factors, such as environmental and sustainability initiatives and celebrity endorsements, experienced reductions (dropping 3% and 2% respectively).


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News

14

inbrief

// Gharieni Group has provided relaxation beds for medical staff at the Virga Jessa hospital in Hasselt, Belgium, which has been caring for more than 100 Covid-19 patients at a time. The Sea Wave System and RLX loungers were delivered in April. // Distributor Sweet Squared has created new Instagram pages for each of its sectors. @sweetsquared.nails is the place to go for all things CND, Light Elegance, Lecenté and :Yours, while the new @sweetsquared.beauty page features Lashus, Wax:one, MoroccanTan and Nimue. Its hair brands all fall under @sweetsquared.hair. // Sensory Retreats has launched the Home Spa Treat Box, which salons and spas can retail to their clients. The package is designed to “reduce stress, relax the mind and soothe a tired body”, containing green mint tea pouches, self-heating eye masks, a set of motivational wellbeing cards and more. // Easydry has created a hygiene sticker for its customers to display to guarantee a level of safety to clients. Its towels are made from medical-grade fibre and are single-use, meaning their use in salons is hygienic. // The 2020 FHT Excellence Awards are now open for entries. Alongside established categories such as Beauty Therapist of the Year and Student of the Year, a new category has been introduced: the FHT Green Therapy Business of the Year.

Medical Devices Regulation has been delayed until 2021 The European Medical Devices Regulation, which was due to come into force on May 26, 2020, has been postponed by one year due to the coronavirus pandemic. Many aesthetic devices will then be classified as medical, meaning manufacturers will have to partner with a designated “notified body” to obtain a CE Mark; and implement a qualitymanagement system for production, in line with the EN ISO 13485:2016 standard. There are also other, more detailed, requirements. The MHRA told Professional Beauty that while the European Commission has not yet confirmed which specific products will be included within each category, machines based on technologies such as radiofrequency,

Advanced Beauty Therapist Apprenticeship Level 3 approved progression pathway for the industry and has been approved with a maximum funding cap of £8,000. George Hammer, chair of the Trailblazer Steering Group for beauty professionals and chairman of Urban Retreat, said the standard will provide “the right knowledge, skills and behaviours that employers want for their The Trailblazer standards and end-point

staff to competently work within the

assessment plan for the Advanced

beauty sector.”

Beauty Therapist Apprenticeship Level

However, starts on the apprenticeship

3 have been approved by the Institute

will only be possible once an end-point

for Apprenticeships and Technical

assessment organisation has given an

Education (IfATE).

“in principle” commitment to deliver

The apprenticeship will provide a

assessments on the standard.

OPI majority share sold to KKR Investment firm KKR has signed a deal to acquire a majority stake in the Coty

Professionals, Clairol and GHD, a

Professional Beauty portfolio, including nail brand OPI, in a deal worth $4.3 billion (£3.5bn).

own a 60% stake and Coty will retain the

Under the terms of the agreement, Coty will make Wella, which includes OPI, along with hair brands Wella

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microcurrent and LED may be covered by the category outlined in Annex XVI, which also includes laser and IPL. There is no requirement for clinics or salons to ensure that existing devices in use are compliant. As the new enforcement date falls outside of the UK’s transition period to leave the EU, the MHRA said it will provide more guidance in due course.

standalone company in which KKR will remaining 40%.


News

16

diarydates // October 11 World Spa & Wellness Awards London A celebration of the best hotels and resort spas from around the world. 020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com/ awards

Brands provide more education to the pro community during Covid-19

// October 11–12 World Spa & Wellness Convention London ExCel London The essential conference for international spa owners and hoteliers looking to network. 020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com/ London // October 11–12 Professional Beauty London ExCeL London The flagship show from the PB Group will now be held alongside major hair show Salon International. It will include conferences for spa, manufacturing, and more. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ London

// November 2 Professional Beauty Awards London Hilton Park Lane Prestigious awards ceremony for beauty, spa and nails. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ pbawards // November 8–9 Professional Beauty and Hairdressers’ Journal Ireland Citywest Dublin Join Ireland’s biggest beauty, hair and spa trade show, featuring PBHJ Ireland Awards. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.ie/interest // November 15–16 Professional Beauty North EventCity Manchester The largest beauty exhibition in the North is back. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ north

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With UK beauty salons not likely to reopen until July at the earliest, even more pro brands are finding new ways to provide online education to therapists, supporting them in upskilling during this time of closure. Dermalogica has produced its Principles for Enhanced Service Safety – a set of post-coronavirus protocols to follow when you reopen, as well as a Clean Touch Certification for therapists who complete the online training. Tracie Giles is hosting online classes about semi-permanent make-up, The Manicure Company is doing nail art “how to” tutorials, and massage expert

Beata Aleksandrowicz is offering her new virtual Face Massage Classes as a complimentary gift for UK spas to reconnect with their clients. Online training is also available through Skinceuticals’s live sessions, covering the brand’s USP and product knowledge; and Beauty House Training Academy is covering topics such as anatomy, physiology and mental health. Among the new initiatives include Salon System’s social media campaign #backtobasics – where a series of experts take over the brand’s social media to offer advice on lash, brow and waxing troubleshooting issues. Meanwhile, Million Dollar Facial’s Trust Our Techs campaign explains how to convince your clients to refrain from purchasing home kits and devices. The Creative Beauty Group has implemented something similar with its #shesworththewait campaign, providing graphically designed visuals for use on social media.

Increase your salon’s cash flow with these lockdown initiatives Several beauty brands have introduced financial initiatives to encourage healthy cash flow in salons during closure and when reopening in the pandemic. Tanning and waxing brand Sienna X is offering up to 30% cashback codes on a monthly basis, covering several of its ranges, while Premier Software is freezing all of its clients’ direct debits until further notice. Further financial support comes from skincare brand Sothys, which is working to deliver goods directly from the warehouse to clients’ doors, saving salons postage and packaging costs. Additionally, INK London has discounted its “Survival Box” for

accounts to just £5. The kit contains remover, wraps and a miracle file. And Miin Cosmetics is offering Professional Beauty readers an exclusive 10% discount on all website orders for Korean Cosmetics using the code PBHELP.


ABEETOXIN® | P.P.M® |BEE VENOM MASK BY DEBORAH MITCHELL® |HEAVEN BY DEBORAH MITCHELL®|DEBORAH MITCHELL®


The Gold Facial by Heaven Skincare contains natural and organic ingredients that work in synergy with ground-breaking technology, pioneered by Deborah Mitchell... Coupled with her world-renowned massage techniques; the Heaven gold facial is at the forefront of current treatments in the skincare industry. Gold Bee Venom is used in the facial, which is so rare, that any client wishing to purchase a Gold Bee Venom Mask, can only do so once. It contains the Venom from the Queen Bee, which works like an injectable treatment. It also contains the ingredient that Vogue has labelled as the ‘must have’ ingredient in your skincare regime ‘Glycolic acid.’ The gold mask itself was created for all skin types as the light can be suitably adjusted to every skin type. Not only is LED effective, but it also has the added benefit of being painless and relaxing, with no recovery time required. During the treatment, the client will be taken into an oasis of calm where the rituals of the gold facial take place. The treatment starts as any signature facial by Heaven Skin care would, but lasts that little bit longer thanks to the addition of the gold mask. The Heaven’s Bee lasts Sting around Facial is one a natural whichminutes. transforms the skin, treatment hourface andlift twenty

working on all the tell-tale signs of tiredness and ageing (including lines, pigmentation, puffy eyes andhoned loose tissue around the chin) toning makingmassage you After the skin has been with Heaven muscle techniques, working onyounger your facial points, your therapist will choose which light works look instantly afteracupressure just one treatment. The treatment combines best for your skin type to maximise the results treatment. a series of hands on techniques to relax facial muscle from tissueyour to firm and tighten for smoother, more youthful skin.

The newest Age Defiance Cream with ground-

breaking Light Defiance Heaven’s BeePrism Venom Mask is the keyTechnology; product used in this developed by Deborah Mitchell, theninapplied facial which contains ingredients thatis work synergy before theVenom mask which works in tandem with the with the Bee ingredient, including Manuka Honey light therapy. to sooth and heal as well as Shea Butter, Rose & Lavender (as well as Heaven’s ABEETOXIN®). The natural antibiotics The different lights achieve different results for a within the Bee Venom itself helps the skin to heal and also range of skin types. For those wanting the youthful prevent allergies, making this treatment ideal for sensitive look, the red light would get to work on reducing skin. fine lines and wrinkles whilst also boosting collagen production within the skin.

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Digital

21

professional

beauty .co.uk

Lesley Bacon, group health club and spa manager, Hand Picked Hotels: Ladies, thank you so much, the detail is excellent, and superb information. Really appreciate your work up to now; keep doing what you’re doing. Thanks Mark for the webinars – very encouraging

We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Habia: Check out the May edition @pro_beauty... lots of information to support salons #beauty #nails #makeup #spa #salons #supportoursalons

Hot topic

Should beauty salons reopen in July? Beauty Vault Chester in Cheshire commented: “I’m feeling very prepared and my clients are itching (literally!) to visit. Fingers crossed the Government will let us open on July 4.” Julie Docherty, owner of MissD Beauty in Corby, commented: “I’m mobile and would happily go back to work as I am one-on-one. I miss work so much and think as an industry our hygiene standards are high, so with some additional steps we could be safe.” Franceska Sykes, nail technician, commented: “I’m so unsure at this stage. I think it’s too early to tell. At the moment, it’s not safe for us to return… as much as I can’t wait to go back it’s got to be safe.” Beauty by Paulina Maynooth, County Kildare, commented: “I would love to be able to reopen earlier. I don’t think everyone should be forced to close their business for that long as everyone is in a different situation and I don’t think everyone is able to get help from the Government. Bills still have to be paid.”

THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Have you engaged with any online courses, webinars or training in the current lockdown?

84% YES

16% NO

Follow Professional Beauty… and the team: @pro_beauty01  @eveoxberry, @mini_pauley @eleanorvousden and @katsjonouchi

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk


Digital Direction

22

Online JARGON busting Getting started with online marketing often brings up confusing terms and phrases. PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin explains some of the more common acronyms you will come across online

W

hile there are plenty of great resources out there to learn how to get ahead on social media, it can be easy to forget about the basics. With so many terms that are only perhaps clear to a “social guru”, someone just starting out can be overwhelmed. Here’s a breakdown of some of the key phrases used in social media and online advertising that you need to know about.

Social media terms Reach: The reach of a piece of content refers to the number of unique people who have viewed it. You may also see reference to “organic reach”; this is the number of unique people who have seen the content without it being promoted (e.g. through Facebook Ads). Impressions: Impressions on a piece of content refers to the number of times that content has been seen. This can include the same person seeing that content on more than one occasion. Engagement: Broadly speaking, engagement is the

The second would be against the total reach of the content (engagement ÷ reach = engagement rate %). This allows you to see relative engagement more easliy: you may find you get a better engagement rate on a piece of content with a lower reach than one with a higher reach. Views: What counts as a “view” on a video differs depending on the platform. For Facebook and Instagram (including IGTV), a person is counted as “viewing” a video if they have watched at least three seconds. On YouTube, a person must have watched at least 30 seconds to count as a view.

Advertising Acronyms

number of interactions that a piece of content receives. That interaction will tend to be a reaction (such as “Like” or “Love” on Facebook), a click (through to a website or to read more of a longer post), and “sharing” the content

PPC: Pay-per-click (PPC) advertising is the catch-all term for platforms such as Facebook and Instagram Ads, along with Google Ads. This is where people pay to promote their content, with the spend coming when people click on the content. CPC & CPM: Cost per click (CPC) and cost per mille (CPM) are used when working out the benefits of a PPC advertising campaign. CPC is fairly straightforward, referring to the actual spend to get one click on your campaign. CPM, on the other hand, is the cost per 1,000 impressions, and does not take into account any clicks or

or leaving a comment. The scope of interactions depends on the platform. Engagement rate: The percentage of engagements to potential audience. This can be done against one of two measures. The first is against the total followers of a page (engagement ÷ total followers = engagement rate %).

interactions with the advert. SEO: Search engine optimisation (SEO) refers to how well your website is set up to rank highly on Google or other search engines. Ideally, you want to have a high SEO ranking – that is, your website naturally appears at the top of a search result for a particular phrase. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk


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27 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

As coronavirus continues to affect the economy and life as we know it, many beauty salons have been innovating to continue to make money and stay connected with clients until things return to normal. Communication has been key for you, with Facebook (64%) voted as the best social media platform to stay in touch with customers on, followed by Instagram (36%). Although you’ve been selling products and digital services via newsletters, these emails have not all been strictly business. An incredible 73% of you have been including updates on how your team are doing through the pandemic and asking clients how they are coping, showing how much you care. When it comes to reopening your doors again, an incredible three quarters (74%) of UK beauty businesses, which includes salons and spas, feel they will be able to reopen safely by July 4, with a whole host of new safety measures and protocols. Read about these new measures on page 7.

River Island

beauty

On the spot – coronavirus special

74

%

68

of UK beauty salons and spas are ready to reopen by July 4

Which initiatives have you been promoting during lockdown? 1. Updates on how your team are doing during the pandemic 2. Special offers on products online 3. Information on mental health resources 4. Information on how to book digital consultations

feel the Government

supporting % isbusinesses enough during Covid-19

Facebook

is the best social media platform for connecting with clients during coronavirus

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider

73%

think their salon will make it through the pandemic without having to make staff cuts

How are you keeping yourself mentally healthy during Covid-19? 1. Exercising 2. Reading/doing hobbies 3. Staying connected to people in the community virtually 4. Limiting your exposure to the news/ social media

professionalbeauty.co.uk


Insider

spa

It’s fair to say that the past month has been a struggle for UK spas, with the uncertainty of the current situation weighing heavily on operators’ minds. A huge 83% of spa owners don’t feel like the UK Government is doing enough to support their businesses through the pandemic; and to keep themselves mentally healthy, 50% are now limiting their daily exposure to the news. However, revenue has still been coming into your businesses via virtual services – the majority of you have experienced a 5% increase in voucher sales during the crisis and your online retail shops have been inundated with orders for moisturisers (17%), face masks (17%) and SPFs (10%). A third of you (33%) have also been promoting your weekly schedule of live classes, covering meditation, yoga and more, as another way for clients to stay connected to your team – which is so important right now. Not surprisingly, half of you (50%) have also donated any PPE equipment you have to NHS workers on the frontline.

Primark

Business Trends

28

On the spot – coronavirus special Which initiatives have you been promoting during lockdown? 1. Updates on how your team are doing during the pandemic 2. Special offers on products clients can buy online 3.Schedule of live classes 4. Information on mental health resources

50

%

5%

How are you keeping yourself mentally healthy during Covid-19? 1. Staying connected to people in the spa community virtually 2. Exercising 3. Limiting your exposure to the news/ social media 4. Healthy eating

have donated PPE equipment to the NHS during this crisis

Which skincare item have you sold online the most during lockdown? 1. Moisturiser 2. Face mask 3. SPF

professionalbeauty.co.uk

the average lift in spa voucher sales you’ve experienced during lockdown

17%

feel the Government is supporting businesses enough during Covid-19


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Insider

nails

Many of your techs have been using this time of closure to upskill, with half (50%) watching online tutorials to learn new techniques and jalmost a quarter (22%) tuning into live interviews and webinars, such as the daily Professional Beauty Webinars series, to discuss common troubleshooting issues. Many of you have also been swotting up on best practice when it comes to health and hygiene in preparation for reopening, and to discuss what PPE you might need to invest in. You’ve also been turning to your product houses for additional support during this tough time, from help with email marketing to boosting your retail sales via your online shop. Nail brand Jessica came out top (15%) as the nail company providing the most support during this time of closure, followed closely by CND (12%), The Gel Bottle Inc (10%) and OPI (9%). Revenue has mainly been coming in the form of voucher sales, with most of you seeing a modest increase in these, and from online product sales – cuticle/nail oil is your bestselling item (17%), followed by hand cream (13%) and nail files (4%).

Oliver Bonas

Business Trends

30

On the spot – coronavirus special How much of a spike in treatment voucher sales have you experienced during lockdown? 1. 0%–5% 2. 10%–20% 3. 70%+ 4. 50%–60%

32%

of your nail techs have donated vital PPE equipment to the NHS during this crisis Which nail care item have you sold the most of online during this time of closure? 1. Cuticle oil/nail oil 2. Hand cream 3. Nail file 4. Base coat

60%

Which brand is providing the greatest amount of support during the pandemic? 1. Jessica 2. CND 3. The Gel Bottle Inc 4. OPI

of your techs are worried about returning to work when you can reopen Which type of online learning are your techs doing during lockdown? 1. Tutorials to learn new techniques 2. Webinars and “lives”on key troubleshooting issues 3. Courses on how to retail/upsell

METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email from April 30 to May 8, regarding business for the month to April 30. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. The 74% stat on the Beauty Insider page came from PB’s seperate Covid-19 Survey, answered by 1,400 beauty businesses, including salons, spas and mobile/home-based therapists, between May 21–26, 2020.

professionalbeauty.co.uk


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Professional Beauty London is open only to trade and professional visitors over the age of 14. Under no circumstances will prams, pushchairs or buggies be permitted. Your entrance badge will be emailed to you 2-3 weeks before the show. Please print it and bring it with you for entry


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35 Ward’s World

Risk

versus REWARD With the “coronacoaster” still hurtling through our lives and business plans, we need definitive answers in order to prepare for reopening, writes HELLEN WARD

S

o here we are, almost two months into lockdown at the time of writing. Prime Minister Boris Johnson has announced his timeline for reopening (clear as mud) and we’re wrestling our way though pages of guidelines that don’t really give us the answers that we crave in order to open up in July with any real confidence. We are not retail and we are not hospitality; only we know how unique we are. Not only is there a huge economic and financial worry, especially for those of us with teams looking for strong, decisive leadership, but we’re struggling with a landscape that is unfamiliar territory. One of my team defined it as “the coronacoaster”. Never has our freedom and our right to live our lives as we please been so compromised. So, when trying to rationalise the issues we face, I find it easier to split them into the practical and the emotional.

Practical impact

Protected and protecting: that has to be the message. And for the salons already breaching the guidelines and opening undercover, remember karma is only a bitch if you are.

Emotional impact But emotionally, the side effects of these restrictions on our free will are far greater. I consider myself very lucky that I’ve never suffered from mental health problems. I know many people do, including some of those I work with. When I lost my first son, my loved ones were rightly concerned for me. To lose a baby so late on in a pregnancy is one of life’s tragedies. But the odds of what happened were so great (70,000 to one) I decided to think ‘why not me?’, instead of ‘why me?’. Getting pregnant again so quickly (against doctors’ advice) was a great healer. My beautiful, bright and sassy 19-year-old daughter is testament to that and I was later lucky enough to have a gorgeous son too. Time is a great healer but it doesn’t make you forget. But this situation is different. My parents are struggling to comprehend it. It’s hard to stay optimistic in the midst of such global uncertainty. My advice? Allow yourself a wobble. It’s OK. We’re all scared – for the future, for our financial situations and for how we will come out of this as a family, a sector and a nation. So, give yourself permission to feel unstable, and (literally) give yourself a hug. Get out into the fresh air and do what makes you feel. PB

Protected and protecting: that has to be the message

Practical – how does our sector deliver safe, close-contact services aligning the two very critical factors – distance from service provider to client and duration of contact? Because these are the two key elements we need to consider in order to fulfil our duty of care, not only to the client receiving the service, but to our valued team members, and, of course, other clients who may be in the vicinity. Definitive guidelines are what we need – how long can our team members be in close contact (with required PPE) with a client in a space of X by X metres? What measures do we need for longer services – extra ventilation? More PPE? What is the ratio? The formula? The algorithm? Only when we get answers to the above can we define which areas in our salons constitute safe, useable, operative, productive spaces. Then we can work out rotas, operating hours and protection measures, and check our insurance.

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Send your feedback to

hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk


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Business Tips

39

ask

the EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business How can I create home peeling kits for clients during lockdown? With the coronavirus situation, we’ve all had to adapt fast. I started to look at what I could still offer to my clients in lockdown, some of whom have challenging skin conditions and were in the middle of courses when we had to close. I decided to develop a home peeling treatment, and I’m not talking about high-strength clinic solutions, just working with the cosmeceutical brands I stock to put together skin kits that contain some hydroxy acids and enzyme ingredients. During the first stage I ask clients to send photographs of their skin in good lighting with no make-up on, then I email them a lifestyle consultation and medical questionnaire to check for any contraindications. After that, I set up a remote consultation, which can be done through Skype, FaceTime or WhatsApp, where we talk about their skin condition and the treatment protocol I want to bring together as a skincare plan. I then put together a pack for them with a step-by-step programme using sample pots. I decant some of my exfoliating cleansers for step one; step two is skin polish; step three is the solution – so either an enzyme or dermabrading cream; and step four is post-treatment recovery, which might be a sheet mask, for example. In the kits, I also include some disposables, such as a headband, some soft gauze and a small fan brush – or simply cotton buds – to decant the solution. I also include a printed step-by-step guide. If the client is new. I’d be advising them to prepare their skin by using active ingredients for a week or two in advance, checking in with them a week later. Then I’m not leaving the client to do their soft peeling on their own, they log in and we go through the protocol together. I ask them to have bowls of

For new clients, I absolutely check in with them via a video call 24 hours in advance to do a patch test together, but the solutions I suggest are not professional-use only, so it’s nothing super-strong. Speak to your suppliers and see what they can offer you for soft home peeling. Some are even offering a drop-ship service so can deliver direct to your client for free. In the kit, I also include a printed copy of aftercare advice, as well a voucher for a slightly discounted treatment for when my clinic is up and running again after coronavirus lockdown.

Martine Jarman is founder and director of SkinGenius clinic in Warrington. She also won the Professional Beauty Aesthetic Therapist of the Year Award in 2015.

water, a towel and a mirror ready, then I talk them through the treatment.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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40 Business Tips

How can I create a bespoke treatment for clients? As therapists, we’re trained from day one to follow a procedure – a method designed and created by someone else. This is great for industry novices but it leaves little room for the more experienced to get creative and put their own stamp on the treatments they deliver day in, day out. Clients love the chance to experience something different, which is why we should go above and beyond the standard routine and tailor treatments to clients’ individual needs. So, where to start when creating your signature sense of self? Firstly, pay attention. Listen closely to your clients’ needs and engage in a meaningful

Should I update or correct the work of other semi-permanent make-up technicians? Not all new clients who come to you will have untouched skin and you may need to consider taking on another technician’s work, offering top-ups, colour corrections and removal. You’ll need to know about colour theory when carrying out top-ups and corrections, but there’s a time when adding more pigment just won’t work and you’ll need to offer removal instead. Think visually when working on existing pigment as there’s already one colour in the skin, so you need to add another one to make the target colour. This takes practice, but if your basic colour theory is good, and both you and your client can be patient, then taking on this kind of work is very rewarding. If colour theory wasn’t covered much during your training, it’s worth researching the companies and pigment brands that offer workshops Removal might be needed if the pigment is too dark or grey, in an unwanted shape or if the skin has become saturated with years of top-ups. Old and faded pigment appears as a different or lighter colour, giving the illusion that there’s less pigment in the skin. But pigment molecules remain forever, it’s only their colour that changes. When skin is full of pigment, there’s no room for more, and this is the reason why microblading doesn’t heal well or last on top of old semi-permanent make-up. Tattoo removal is the only option for this situation, lifting out as much of the old pigment as needed, then reworking with a new pair of brows. Some removal methods can be done with a hand tool or a tattoo machine, making tattoo removal the perfect add-on treatment for microbladers and semipermanent make-up technicians. Lisa Henning is founder and Training is required to offer this head trainer for Botched specialist treatment, so always Ink, a pigment removal check that any course is solution for microbladers. insurance approved.

conversation about priority concerns. Maybe they want a deep steam with plenty of extractions, or they want to zone out and have a more blissful treatment? The more you listen to the person in front of you, the more you will understand how to create a totally unique experience for them. The bottom line is, we are all human, yet we are totally individual beings with absolutely different needs, and those needs change every single day. As therapists, it is our job to pay attention and deliver. Therapy should never become a mundane routine; keep the passion alive and let your creativity flow.

Lyndsay Flannery is the pro educator at SBC skincare, which incorporates a five phase concept to deliver personalised treatments.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Tips

42

How can I perfect my facial waxing technique? A good consultation prior to waxing is key. Check if your client is on any medication as retinoids, acne medication and chemical peels can all sensitise the skin. Cleanse the skin before waxing with

How can I conceal natural tan lines on my spray tan clients? If your client has tan lines from the sun that they want to conceal, spray tanning is great way to temporarily hide them. Having a spray tan can even out the skin tone and help to blend those noticeable lines and make them appear less obvious. If they have any sunburn then wait until that goes before you spray them, as it may cause added irritation. Also bear in mind that because sunburn causes trauma to the skin, it can affect the outcome of your spray tan – it may not take as well on burnt or previously burnt skin. I would advise you to use a slightly darker shade than your usual one if you’re looking to even out tan lines from the sun. This will help even out the skin tone and disguise the lines better. It’s best to take a multi-pronged approach that includes a handheld tan solution before you spray tan them. For the paler parts of skin, use a cosmetic sponge to blend and apply tanning solution. This isn’t going to colour-match perfectly to the client’s tan but is key preparation to even out the difference. Once the hand-applied tan is completely dry, begin to spray tan with a light coat of your airbrush Carrie Marsh is the VIP spray tanner at Norvell Tanning solution to even the tan lines and has tanned several further. I’ve found using a celebrity clients including fast-drying solution is best for this, cast members on Strictly Come Dancing. paired with a hose-free spray gun

an alcohol-free pre-wax cleanser. Face creams, make-up and natural oils in the skin will stop the waxes from adhering as well as they could. Use talc-free powder before applying your wax as this will really help you to grab every last hair. Peelable or hot wax is preferable to strip wax for the face. It’s kinder to the skin, plus, you can go over the same area more than once. When you repeat your application, go against the hair growth as this will get out every last hair. Paint the wax on firmly with your spatula to really coat each hair. Wax the face first, before other body parts, as this gives the skin time to settle down. Then, apply a soothing facial after-wax cream, preferably with sun protection or a hair retardant to slow down the hair regrowth. Tell the client not to touch the area after it’s been waxed and send them home with a sample of your post-wax cream. Also, tell them not to shower, go swimming, or use saunas or sunbeds afterwards.

Tracey Smith is director of waxing brand Ashmira Botanica. She has more than 30 years’ industry experience.

for an easy-to-move spray tan.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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44 Business Tips

How can I prepare my business to be leaner post-lockdown?

How can I get the most return on investment from my tan solution? Are you getting through a lot of solution? Maybe your cubicle or overspray booth is very wet? Or you’re spraying clients with two coats and it’s taking a long time to dry? These are sure signs that you are spraying far too much. You should be getting 18–20 tans from a 1l bottle of solution. To find out how many tans you are currently getting from a litre, start with a new bottle and mark on the bottle after every tan, and remember to pour your gun solution back into the bottle first before doing this. If you get to half way and you’re at 8 to 10 tans, then you’re doing ok. Any lower and you should turn down your gun flow down so that you can stand a hand distance away – your spraying should leave a light sheen on your client’s skin. Practise on a piece of couch roll and always start with your client’s back, as this gives you a chance to make adjustments more easily. Remember, the guide colour is only there for you. If your client asks you to spray again because it looks too light, remind them that they won’t see the true colour until it has developed. After you’ve finished spraying, ask your client if they can see anything they are not happy with. Show them their palms, which should be free of tan. Explain that they will touch their face and body subconsciously afterwards, so will need to wash Nicola Matthews is the founder of tanning and their palms regularly, as you’ll be waxing brand Sienna X surprised that some call the next brand and the Pop up Spray day to complain that you’ve Tan Tents.

Now is the perfect time to work on your long-term plan. It should include marketing, forecasts and everything you need to get your beauty salon back on track. Look at your long-term goals and your self-talk. You have a blank canvas with your business where you can start to put into the place all of the things that you’ve thought about but have previously never got around to. Grab a pen and paper and write “opportunities are” and then underneath, in capitals, write the letters N O W H E R E. Take a look at it. You may have read it as “Opportunities are nowhere” or as “Opportunities are now here”. There is a really small shift that takes it from a negative to a positive, and it’s a good thing to remember to make sure you are staying positive. In my coaching, I always get salon owners to make long-term goals – it could be financial, business or personal. You could even ask your team to have a think about this too. Make an achievable target; something you know you can do. Then make a second target that’s slightly pushing your comfort zone and a third, more outrageous target. You’d be surprised by the number of times that the outrageous target becomes a reality and a small part of your business down the line.

Susan Routledge is a salon business coach, founder of the Beauty Directors Club, and owner of Finishing Touches salon.

sprayed their hands.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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47 Interview

Talking to...

MARIAN Newman

B

The renowned session tech and nail industry expert tells Eve Oxberry about her rise to the top, and an exciting new education project due to launch later this year

est known as the original session tech, Marian Newman carved a path for nail artists in the worlds of fashion, editorial and advertising back in the ‘90s. But, as a former forensic scientist and a qualified teacher, it’s the technical and scientific side of the nail industry where her passion lies. As such, it’s her knowledge, just as much as her skills with a brush, that have kept her profile strong in the years since. It’s that same passion that has led her to work on an exciting new project during the coronavirus lockdown period, focused on improving nail education. “Education is a major problem in the industry because there are so many short courses and online courses that spend too much time on the pretty stuff without teaching the basics,” says Newman. “I’m amazed by the number of nail professionals who don’t even understand the structure of the nail unit. They can’t name the parts. They don’t know where the matrix is, and they don’t know what the bed epithelium is or the part it plays, and that is vital.”

Her new project, The Essential Nail Professional, aims to change all that by introducing a different way of learning that is more accessible to the creative types of people that often enter the industry. “I’ve written textbooks since 2000 but textbooks, for creative people, are hard to read because not everybody learns by reading words,” she says. “I’ve done a lot of study on the psychology of teaching and how important learning styles are, and textbooks are great but they don’t work for everybody”.

Deeper understanding Instead, The Essential Nail Professional, which is set to launch toward the end of this year, will focus on teaching core theory in a more engaging way. “I can’t tell you exactly how it works until we launch but it’s going to free up the teachers so that they can spend more time on the one-to-one physical learning , even in a group, because as a teacher

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Interview

48

you need to really watch your students and how they do everything,” she says. “It’s got nothing to do with application though, it’s all to do with knowledge, theory and understanding – but understanding deeply. There are a lot of online courses that teach you theory but often that’s just reading words and seeing a diagram; this is a million miles away from that and I’m really excited.” Right from the start, Newman’s career was borne out of this commitment to training and standards, as it was her role working with industry associations in the ’90s and creating standards that lead to her first session job.

someone to do some nails for a shoe advertising campaign. “This was unheard of in 1996, but I said, ‘yeah, that sounds interesting’, so I took a tiny kit along and there was no hair or make-up there, just me. I had to match the colour of the nails exactly to the colour of these shoes,” she says. “I didn’t have a clue who I was working with but later discovered the photographer was Nick Knight, who is one of the most amazing and genius photographers in the world, and the stylist was Lucinda Chambers, the then fashion director of British Vogue. And that was that, really – about month later, I did my first Vogue cover with Kate Moss.” While such a fast rise to the top may be unheard

There are so many short courses and online courses now that spend too much time on the pretty stuff without teaching the basics... and that is vital

Ticket to the top Having retrained in nails in the ‘80s, Newman quickly became very active with the International Nail Association and with the Hair and Beauty Therapy Training Board (which later became Habia) helping to write the national occupational standards for many years. Then, one day, the association had a call from a photographer who wanted

Clockwise from top: Newman’s nail art; Vivienne Westwood reading Nailed It; with make-up artist Dominic Skinner; her work with British Beauty Council

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50 Interview

Clockwise from top: Newman’s nail art; working backstage for Roland Mouret; her coffee table book Nailed It (image: paintbucketnails/ Instagram)

KEY DATES 1987 Newman trains in nails, having left her previous career in forensic science to raise her young children, and opens her own nail salon in Hertford 1996 Lands her first session job, working on an ad campaign with photographer Nick Knight, quickly followed by her first Vogue cover shoot 2001 Her first industry textbook, The Complete Nail Technician, is published 2014 Creates her own line of topcoats, Nail Transformations, for MAC 2015 Launches global education programme Nails:Mastered with photographer Nick Knight, make-up artist Val Garland and hair stylist Sam McKnight

of in today’s competitive nails world, Newman says there are definite advantages to working in a more established market. “Techs don’t walk into a shoot or a video and get looked up and down like I used to and asked, ‘What do you mean you only do nails?’ It’s accepted now. I’m proud that every single shoot, fashion show or editorial that has hands or feet anywhere near it will always have a manicurist or a nail technician there because the beauty industry is so important.”

Lessons learned However, as most session techs are at pains to point out – the work is far from glamorous. “You’ve got to fight for your place on the model, scrabbling around on floors,” says Newman, advising any techs who want to break into session work that “you’ve also got to be able to deal with a creative team and all of the egos that come with it. And not talk too much; we’re used to working in salons where you almost have to entertain your clients but when you’re in a studio,

2017 Fourth edition of The Complete Nail Technician is published 2019 Nailed It, a coffee table book about Newman’s career, is released 2020 Plans to launch The Essential Nail Professional, a new way of learning for nails, in Q4

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your client is a model or a celebrity and everybody else wants to get their conversation in as well.” However, while it may be vital to put in the graft to make your name, Newman says that if there is one piece of advice she could give her younger self it would be “look after your health and your posture”. She adds. “I know through all those years of doing session work that I wasn’t looking after my physical health. Since I’ve got older, I’m suffering from it. I’ve had five slipped disks and that’s all from sitting badly and from carrying heavy stuff on my shoulder rather than using a trolley. So that and getting the best education possible are probably the two most important things.”

Favourite moments Looking back on such a diverse career, Newman says it’s impossible to pick a highlight. “I loved seeing my first textbook come out; holding it and thinking ‘I wrote that!’, she says. “But some of the people that I’ve worked with have given me real ‘pinch me’ moments too, like when I did Brad Pitt’s nails. I was giving him a hand massage and looking up into his face and thought ‘wow’, so silly things like that have been pretty amazing.” PB


Promotional Feature

51

LEARN and

earn

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Grow your career as a specialist permanent cosmetics technician by training with Kasia Ojrzynska at Esteem Excellence Academy

ore beauty pros are learning about the benefits of permanent cosmetics and many are doing this with the help of Esteem Excellence Academy, run by permanent cosmetics expert Kasia Ojrzynska. With more time on your hands during this difficult time of closure, why not take the opportunity to think ahead and make positive plans for the future? If you’ve always had a yearning to become a permanent cosmetics artist or wish to progress to being able to provide more advanced beauty services, then Esteem Excellence Academy is the place for you. The academy offers the most up-to-date knowledge and teaches the most advanced techniques in permanent cosmetics – whether you’re a beginner or an advanced technician – and owner Ojrzynska can help you realise your potential as a professional in the field.

What courses does the academy offer? There are courses for beginners, Level 3 (and above) beauty therapists and medical professionals. Ojrzynska has developed her own eyebrow formula, which helps students achieve a beautiful, natural-looking shape. The formula applies to all eyebrow types with results that complement every client’s natural beauty. By being able to offer this highly sought-after treatment, students will be able to rapidly build up their clientele and a successful microblading career. All courses come with a free starter kit comprising the tools professionalbeauty.co.uk

and materials needed to start treatments and begin earning from your newfound skills. In line with Esteem Excellence Academy’s ethos of upholding the highest standards and providing the very best in customer service and satisfaction, students also get to train at state-of-the-art facilities.

Tell me more about Kasia Ojrzynska Ojrzynska has worked in the beauty industry for more than 20 years and learned her talents from experts all over the world. She gained both her cosmetology degree and her cosmetology master’s degree at Łòdź University in Poland. Ojrzynska is a highly skilled and respected elite permanent cosmetics specialist and accredited in corrective pigmentation techniques. She delivers ABT and CPD accredited courses in microblading and micropigmentation, and these classes are kept to a maximum of two students. Under her expert direction you can learn how to deliver precise, flawless results in semi-permanent cosmetics every time.

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Coronavirus Advice

53

Get READYto

reopen

A

With the hope of reopening on the horizon, make sure you’re prepared to hit the ground running as soon as Government restrictions lift with our guide to the industry guidelines

s we await formal guidance from the Government on whether the beauty services industry can reopen from July 4, we’ve compiled the latest guidelines from industry bodies on the recommended practices to help you navigate your business through reopening. The Professional Beauty Group has also created a poster for salon and spa owners to display in their businesses (see page 56). The client-friendly poster is supported by Babtac and Lash Perfect, and is designed to help businesses reassure their clients on the safety and hygiene measures you have taken as they return to your salon or spa. These guidelines are advisory and offer suggestions to help you prepare your business for reopening.

The British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology (Babtac) has created eight pages of guidance for preparing beauty and hair salons for post

daily and washed immediately after use (on highest temperature possible – minimum 60°C). Staff should also avoid wearing jewellery, wear their hair back to avoid touching their face, and keep their nails short. Clients: Clients should be encouraged to wash their hands on entering the premises. Determine what the client’s PPE needs are and decide whether you will provide these for an additional included cost, or whether you will require your client to provide their own. Babtac believes it is acceptable to charge your client to provide them with required items. Additionally, ask the client to limit the personal belongings, such as handbags and jewellery, that they bring to the salon. Tools, supplies and equipment: Use disposable, single-use tools and supplies wherever possible and dispose of in an airtight bin. Non-disposables must be thoroughly cleaned, then sterilised after each client. Environment: Avoid if at all possible using any materials or furniture in the salon that are hard to clean (such as blankets, carpets, fabric couches). Wipe down all surfaces (floors, worktops, trolleys, couches) and

Covid-19 lockdown. Here are some of the key points: PPE: Medical-grade gloves, surgical masks, disposable aprons and gowns will most likely be required when working in the salon. Staff: Staff should not wear their uniforms at home or to and from work. Uniforms should also be changed

redo any surfaces used between clients. The guide includes an explanation of how coronavirus spreads, how to implement infection protection measures, and operational protocols and controls you will need to consider. Read the full Babtac Back to Work Guidlelines.

Babtac Back to Work Guidelines

professionalbeauty.co.uk


Coronavirus Advice

54 Environment: Allow at least two metres between workstations. This may mean removing chairs from the salon floor or taping them off and using “not in use” signs. Consider taking payments and making future appointments at the workstation to avoid crowding at reception, and take contactless payments where possible. Read the full NHBF Back to Business Guidelines.

ISPA Reopening Checklist The US-based International Spa Association (ISPA) has compiled a Spa Reopening Checklist that includes prompts to help you visualise how your business will operate post-lockdown. It also offers communication NHBF: Back to Business Guidelines templates for both staff and clients to help The National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF)’s you explain your new safety protocols. Here are some of guidelines are for beauty salons, hair salons and the key points: barbershops. The organisation is using these guidelines to PPE: Ensure vendors are open and able to fill orders to continue its conversations with Government to show that meet demand for PPE and sanitation products. the industry can work safely to avoid delaying when salons Staff: Consider grouping staff together (e.g. group A, B can return to work. Here are some of the key points fromthe and C) with no work hour overlap in the event that staff NHBF’s guide. members need to be quarantined due to Covid-19. PPE: The NHBF recommends using faceClients: Inform guests in advance of WHAT ABOUT coverings, non-latex gloves, and gowns or new safety measures and changes to the NAIL TECHS? aprons (depending on the service or treatment facility. Evaluate recommended guest Nail experts Marian provided), all of which should be disposable. It is arrival times and determine if touchless Newman and scientist the employer’s responsibility to provide and pay treatment options should be offered. Doug Schoon have for PPE for their employees. Tools, supplies and equipment: created Return to Work Staff: Let your staff know if you are making Regularly sanitise equipment and tools in guidelines for nail changes to your rota to accommodate social treatment rooms. The guide provides a technicians, helping you distancing. Update what is happening to their checklist for different areas such as to follow best practices wages as they come off furlough, and update hydrothermal zones, treatment rooms and when performing them on the safety measures you’ll be following nail work stations. Consider printing a nail treatments. in the salon. sanitation checklist to be completed Clients: The NHBF recommends avoiding before and in between treatments. treatments that involve working near the eyes, nose or Environment: Determine how social distancing will be mouth. Explain to clients that some services will not be on managed in lobbies, lounges, locker rooms (e.g. assign offer until further notice. Communicate with clients that guests a locker), saunas, steam rooms and wet facilities. they will need to comply with your salon’s safety measures Evaluate floor markings to assist guests with navigating so that they can prepare ahead of their appointment. the spa. evaluate high-traffic areas and, where possible, Tools, supplies and equipment: Use single-use tools prop open doors to prevent repeated touch. wherever possible. Any tools used more than once must be Read ISPA’s Spa Reopening Checklist. cleaned thoroughly or sterilised after each use. Turn the page for PB’s downloadable guideline poster. PB

WHAT ABOUT HOME TREATMENTS? The NHBF advises against visiting clients at home until it is safe to do so. By not complying with the social

advising clients to come to their own place where they can control the environment in accordance with

distancing rules, you are at risk of being fined and by visiting clients in their home, you are not in control of the safety and hygiene, increasing your risk of catching and spreading the virus. Once it is safe to do so, Babtac advises: “Mobile Therapists need to strongly consider

protocols and guidance. If this is not possible, the client would need to prove that all hygiene protocols have been carried out prior to a visit to a client’s home – e.g. extensive checklist could be sent to client electronically for completion and signature ahead of arrival.”

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SALON GUIDELINES COVID-19 Our Commitment

We will provide you with a safe environment that complies with guidelines issued by Government and our local authority

1 OUR SALON

4 GUEST ARRIVAL & RECEPTION

✔ We have undertaken a thorough review of our salon and the services we offer

✔ We will greet you warmly but without a handshake or personal contact

✔ We have rearranged our waiting, reception and treatment areas to adhere to social distancing guidelines

✔ We will stagger customer arrival times to minimise close contact

✔ All surfaces throughout the salon will be cleaned regularly and wiped with the appropriate cleaning product between each treatment

✔ We will clean the reception area regularly

✔ All items of equipment will be cleaned before and after every treatment. This includes all metal instruments, brushes, bowls, and tweezers

✔ Where possible we will escort you straight to the treatment area/room to avoid congestion in waiting areas ✔ Waiting areas will be arranged to adhere to social distancing

✔ One-use disposable items will be used where necessary (sustainable alternatives kept where possible)

✔ We ask that you pay using card or other cashless means where possible

✔ We will ensure adequate ventilation throughout the salon with doors and windows open where possible

5 WE ASK YOU, OUR CUSTOMERS

2 OUR TEAM

✔ To arrive at the time agreed, to maximise social distancing

✔ We have conducted training to ensure all team members care for our customers in a safe, hygienic and professional manner

✔ To wash your hands and/or use hand sanitiser as directed by our team and before and after each treatment

✔ Staff have been trained to adapt each treatment to uphold best practice, including hygiene and safety

✔ To wear face-masks supplied by us

✔ We have agreed social distancing for our team in communal staff areas ✔ Staff are briefed to uphold safe standards while dealing with responsibilities at reception

3 OUR TREATMENTS

✔ To contact us and re-arrange your appointment, if you have a temperature, or are feeling unwell or if any person in your household has the same or is self-isolating ✘ Do not come to the salon if you or anyone you live with is self-isolating or is displaying symptoms known to be consistent with Covid-19

✔ We have reviewed our treatment menu and removed treatments where we felt it necessary to do so ✔ Our therapists will wear gloves, masks and other personal protective equipment (PPE) during treatments where required. Therapists will wash their hands before and after every treatment ✔ PPE will be replaced after every treatment ✔ Our therapist will stay with you throughout your treatment – not venturing out of the room – to reduce the need to replace PPE and minimise infection

We are happy to discuss any of your individual concerns, please feel free to speak with a member of staff

We reserve the right to amend or adjust these guidelines based on government policy and new research to protect the safety of all our staff and clients

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The winners will be announced at a black-tie ceremony at London Hilton, Park Lane on Monday, November 02, 2020. For bookings and enquiries please visit www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbawards

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Software

59

Crack CODE the

It’s not long until your salon or spa will be busy again but have you updated your operating system and booking process so it’s post-lockdown ready? These software tools will help your business thrive when you reopen, writes Amanda Pauley

G

etting your salon or spa back on track after coronavirus lockdown may seem like a big feat but now is the perfect time to assess your booking processes and make those much-needed changes before July 4, which is the UK Government’s estimated reopen date for beauty and spa businesses in England. To help your salon survive during the pandemic, we’ve rounded up seven of the best software tools to help you manage your cash flow, nail your social media, execute the right email marketing and, most importantly, enable your staff to work in a safe environment that adheres to the Government’s social distancing measures.

1. System audit and streamline with Premier Software Salon by Premier Software is offering owners free remote system audits and account-management meetings to help you spring clean your software so you can get it in

tip-top shape for when you reopen. Premier trainer Becky Sims will cover topics such as marketing, financials and reporting, stock, system auditing, advanced reception features and software configuration, with these meetings lasting around two hours. The aim is to highlight the areas that could be streamlined in your business. For example, a section on marketing will cover how salon owners can create email templates to send Covid-19 updates to clients, while a segment on web booking and online consultations will help your business to run with a process that meets the Government’s social distancing measures. Special June offer: £39.50 deposit, with a freeze on the first two months’ support payments (T&Cs apply) premiersoftware.co.uk

2. Operate while social distancing with Phorest Software provider Phorest has a variety of options to help your business adapt, including its Online Store

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Software

60 safety net to have. “Around the world, businesses are being asked to collect and keep up-to-date client information of anyone coming into their premises post-lockdown,” explains Simon Christie, head of product. “Our tool updates client contact details straight from their phone – you just add a link to your appointment reminder SMS – and all your records will be accurate and secure.” Packages start from £20 per month per staff member and include 100 SMS messages gettimely.com

Phorest

4. Manage money well with Float

feature, which helps salons shift stock during lockdown so you can generate revenue. The feature syncs with your stock and client history, while also generating store links to use on social media. It’s an ideal way to stay in touch with clients and keep them topped up with their favourite items. When you reopen, the company’s app Phorest Go will enable your team to manage their daily columns on their mobiles – removing the need to gather at reception or share touchscreens so you can maintain the Government’s two-metre social distancing rule. The app also includes push notifications so your beauty therapist will be alerted when their client has arrived. Price available upon request phorest.com/gb

Spas and beauty salons can perform digital consultations via Timely’s Consult app, which sends forms to clients to fill in ahead of their visit and can be combined with video calls. There’s also online contactless payments with TimelyPay, cutting down the issue of shared payment touch points. Timely has also launched automated contact tracing, and although it’s not clear if this is a requirement in the UK yet [at the time of writing], it’s a good professionalbeauty.co.uk

Salon by Premier Software

3. Make more services digital with Timely

If you’re worried about your finances, it’s worth investing in an app that will give you a real-time view of your cash flow. Float provides a visual graph of what’s happening with your money, based on real-time information so you can make cash flow-forecasting decisions confidently. It automatically syncs with your accounting software so you can see incoming cash, outgoing expenses, and which bills and invoices are overdue. It allows you to run business decision scenarios based on your current cash flow, enabling you to see the financial impact if you lose a client, increase expenses or receive late payments – all factors that could impact your salon’s survival during the pandemic. From £39 per month (if billed annually) floatapp.com


Salon Tracker

Software

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5. Swot up on email marketing with Udemy Now is the perfect time for you and your team to upskill so that you have a better understanding of how to run your salon successfully when you reopen. Udemy is a global marketplace for learning, with more than 150,000 online courses you can undertake, covering finance, marketing, communication, sales, accounting and more – all the things you’ll need to be hot on in the coming months. For example, learn how to nail your marketing with courses on how to write better emails, or get ready to boost retail sales by swotting up on how to sell like a pro. You can open an individual or a business account on the platform, giving your team access to these helpful resources. Price on application udemy.com

6. Deliver first-class social content with Shortcuts If your social media game has fallen by the wayside in the wake of the Covid-19 crisis, then take advantage of Shortcuts’ exclusive partnership with platform Social Sorted. Accounts of Shortcuts get free membership until the end of June, giving you access to Social Sorted’s collection of curated content – for example, cool images paired with inspirational quotes – which you can use to engage your Instagram and Facebook followers before reopening. Shortcuts is also offering accounts free online training

every Wednesday, covering issues such as adjusting service details and essential stock and reporting. Shortcuts Cloud Appointment Book software can be used on smartphones and tablets too so your team can manage their day from their own treatment room. Packages start from £20 per month shortcuts.co.uk/demo/

7. Up your safety protocols with Salon Tracker Salon Tracker’s online booking system has a “breaks” tool that lets you block out a chunk of slots in any column to ensure you have adequate time to practise social distancing measures. This feature is ideal for adopting extra safety protocols as it allows you to only have a certain number of clients coming in, and therapists working in certain spaces, at any given time. Within the company’s Enterprise package, the Siteview App is being updated too, so all users will be able to view their appointments as they are entered onto the software system or made online. This means therapists will be able to add, edit and remove appointments from within the app on their mobile, so employees won’t have to operate from the same salon computer. Special offer: 50% off the first three months if you trial the software before July 4, otherwise £90pcm salontracker.co.uk

DON’T MISS: UPSKILL WITH PB’S FREE WEBINARS Professional Beauty has enlisted the help of top beauty experts to provide free webinars to support salons and spas during this difficult time. Topics covered include 10 ways to double your cash post-Covid-19 and how to introduce a price increase in your salon. Watch past webinars on PB’s YouTube and see upcoming ones at professionalbeauty.co.uk/webinars

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2020 RELIEF FUND We urgently need your help to build signi cant funds to enable us to support professionals in the hair and beauty industry who are facing sudden hardship. Please give what you can today. Together we can get through this. justgiving/campaign/relie und

Registered Charity number 1166298 T: 01234 831888 E: info@hairandbeautycharity.org W: www.hairandbeautycharity.org


Aesthetics

64

Is it

time

TO

join forces?

I

Collaborating with a nurse to offer more invasive aesthetic treatments in salon could boost your profits and client base, but it has to be done correctly. Dr Kim Prescott explains how to set up this partnership

t’s not uncommon for beauty salons that already offer advanced skin treatments such as chemical peels, microneedling and laser to consider partnering with a medical practitioner to introduce more invasive services like botulinum toxin (botox) and filler. This type of collaborative relationship is becoming more common in the beauty and aesthetics industries than you may think. While the majority of aesthetic treatments are safe and tolerable for beauty therapists to do, some come with the risk of serious complications, several of which can occur months or even years after the treatment has taken place. This is where having an in-house medic who can safely perform these treatments is important. Unlike in the majority of other countries, UK law does not mandate that these more advanced beauty treatments should be carried out by a medically trained healthcare professional (HCP). In spite of the legalities, the majority of UK aesthetic therapists choose to partner with a HCP to undertake the more medical – and more risky – procedures in their salons, and to be available to consult with clients should complications occur.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

This is how to find the right medical practitioner to partner with in your salon, making it mutually beneficial for both parties.

1. Choose a nurse or doctor who shares your ethos Never compromise on the quality of what you deliver to your clients. Partner with a medical professional who will offer the same level of expertise, proficiency and experience as you do. For example, look for someone who is likely to spend enough time explaining the procedures and putting clients’ minds at ease prior to treatment. A reassuring personality will go a long way to ensuring client satisfaction.

2. Quality and commitment really is everything With the changing nature of aesthetic medicine in the UK, and growing scrutiny at all levels, it is increasingly necessary to change the way aesthetic treatments are practised. The first requirement is to ensure that the space used for these treatments meets medical


standards and is equipped with emergency protocols and supplies. In most salons where medical treatments are being introduced, it is good practice for all staff to undergo basic life support training, and the Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) has guidance around these requirements. Take time to find a partner who takes their aesthetic practice seriously, is highly trained and insists on working with high-quality, well-researched products. Medical professionals are still learning about the long-term implications of many cosmetic procedures, so it is important that your partner remains up to date with the extensive research happening in the arena of aesthetic medicine. Spend time with potential candidates and ask them questions about the procedures they offer as well as details of their training. The Level 7 Certificate is something quite new, and anyone who has invested in this level of training will be an asset to your salon. However, those who have been in the field for a while, and therefore have more experience, are unlikely to have completed a Level 7 Certificate so you will need to look at their qualifications and experience on an individual basis. Your team will also need to have a good idea of the procedures and the frequently asked questions (FAQs) that come with them, so getting candidates to do a presentation to your therapy team could be part of the interview process.

3. Look for specialists in your area Work with someone local to your salon because they need to agree to be available after hours should a client have concerns – anyone worried about a potential complication should be reviewed immediately. As rare as these complications may be, when they do occur they can be serious. There can also be negative consequences for your business and reputation, not to mention your insurance, if a client is unable to be seen immediately.

4. Building a client base will take effort from both sides It is not enough to have a medic coming in for a couple of hours twice per month – setting aside time weekly is ideal, even if sessions are not filled straight away. A client requiring an urgent review will not be happy to wait. It can take time to build up your clientele so you will need to find a nurse or medic who is flexible enough to build this side of your business with you over time. This can be the biggest challenge because a doctor or nurse without much experience in aesthetics may have more availability, but it takes time and practice to ensure consistently good results. You may need to consider making the financial viability as attractive as possible for the doctor or nurse for the first couple of months, and changing the terms as

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5. A written contract is crucial Make sure you spend time discussing your working relationship and put together a written contract. Aspects that frequently end up being problematic include financial arrangements, so consider factors such as what happens when clients don’t turn up for appointments or when they want to see the HCP outside of your salon. There is little standardisation around financial arrangements, and with the increasing emphasis on overall skin quality improvement rather than isolated injectable treatments, one of the tricky areas is how to compensate the doctor or nurse who takes the time to suggest products and courses of treatment to be delivered by your therapists. Non-refundable booking fees should cover the appointment slot so that the doctor or nurse’s time is covered. Time should also be considered as a cost for those discussing profit sharing. PB

Dr Kim Prescott practices, lectures and trains in aesthetic medicine, and has a special interest in skincare product development.

PBTV video Where do beauty therapists fit into aesthetics? Fillmed practitioner Andrew Hansford discusses the crucial role beauty therapists have within the aesthetics industry and where to draw the line when it comes to injectables. Do you agree with Hansford’s point of view? Watch it now

this side of the business grows.

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Make-up

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Natural SELECTION As the organic and natural beauty market soars to £106.4 million, the experts reveal what you need to know about organic, natural and clean make-up and skincare, writes Eleanor Vousden

A

ccording to the Soil Association Certification’s 2020 Organic Market Report for Beauty & Wellbeing, 79% of people are more likely to buy a beauty product if it is labelled “organic”, while 82% said they would be doing the right thing for the environment. In recent years, the interest in this field has undoubtably grown. “I think a large portion of that has come from conscious consumerism,” says Georgia Barnes, head of

world around them, as well as on their own health and wellbeing. While this market is ever-expanding (in fact, it is now in its ninth consecutive year of double-digit growth) there is still a lot of confusion about the terminology used. “I think it’s arguably one of the biggest challenges to the sector that we haven’t got clear definitions of what brands mean when they’re saying organic, natural or clean, and it leads to a huge amount of confusion,” says Barnes.

business development at the Soil Association. “This trend around environmental awareness and the Greta Thunberg effect, the Blue Planet effect, whatever you want to call it, has really started to switch people’s mindsets.” Now, consumers are more likely to question the impact of buying a product on the

Currently, a product that calls itself “organic” may in fact only have 1% organic ingredients. Therefore, it’s important to arm yourself with the right knowledge in order to choose organic and natural products for your kit, as well as help clients who are curious about using natural and organic make-up.

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Make-up

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ORGANIC BEAUTY BY NUMBERS COSMOS standards require a product to have at least 95% organic ingredients to be labelled organic 79% of people are more likely to buy a beauty product if it’s labelled organic* *The Soil Association

What is organic make-up? The Soil Association defines organic beauty as “the formulation of cosmetic products using organically farmed ingredients.” This means that the ingredients are grown without genetically modified organisms (GMO), herbicides or synthetic fertilisers. “The Soil Association certifies beauty products to the COSMOS standards, which is a global harmonised standard,” explains Barnes. Additionally, products that hold the Soil Association Organic certification also have: • No animal testing • No parabens and phthalates • No synthetic colours, dyes or fragrances • No nano particles. “We make sure that we’re checking things like the packaging, that there’s no animal testing, that the supply chains are completely transparent and that the biodiversity is protected,” says Barnes. “It’s linking up all of the principles of organic under one umbrella, and that’s how we define our organic beauty products.” However, just because a product does not have a certified logo doesn’t mean that it isn’t organic. Some smaller businesses can’t afford to have the certification on their products, so when in doubt, it’s best to contact the brand directly to ask about the formulations and ingredients used. “If you want to know more about the product, ask them – hold them to account and open up that dialogue,” advises Barnes. “As more brands join this movement, we’re going to see more purpose-driven

brands living authentically and putting business practices in that they really mean. Build a relationship with your brand, and the brand will respect and respond to that.” Surprisingly, some ingredients such as salt, water and clay can’t be grown organically, as they come from a source which cannot be farmed so they cannot be certified organic, says Lisa Franklin, a skincare expert who runs a private clinic in London. “Clay is inorganic because it is formed from a chemical process in rocks, and water is in an inorganic compound,” she adds.

What is natural make-up? Natural means that the ingredients used in the formula are derived from nature. However, just because an ingredient or product is natural, that does not automatically mean it’s organic. For example, an ingredient within the product may be natural but it may have been grown with pesticides. The Soil Association also has certification for natural products, which covers COSMOS’s standards and requirements to be deemed natural. “It’s still the same principles because organic is ultimately the original state of nature,” says Barnes. “It means no unnecessary chemicals, it just doesn’t have that 95% organic threshold that organic products require. ‘Natural’ helps cover clays and minerals, or things that haven’t been through an organic farming process. If it’s naturally occurring, it’ll sit under the natural certification.”

WHAT ABOUT “CLEAN” MAKE-UP? “In terms of ‘clean’, as a scheme, we don’t touch it,” says Barnes. “We feel it’s a marketing claim. It’s a subjective thing that means different things to so many people. If you’re looking for a product that is clean in your terms, it might be different in someone else’s.” Therefore, it’s best to look for organic and natural as a benchmark when clients are seeking “clean” products.

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MAKE-UP MYTHS Barnes, and celebrity make-up artist Armand Beasley, talk us through the most common misconceptions of organic and natural make-up.

“Organic and natural make-up is ineffective” MYTH: “Some people think that if it’s an organic product, it’s not going to be effective – it has poor texture or the pigments aren’t particularly good,” says Beasley. “Many years ago, when I was trying to build up more organic products in my kit, I was struggling to get really good pigments.” However, he says that in recent years this has improved: “I still think that organic make-up has a bit of a way to go to catch up, but the formulations are getting much better.”.

“These types of products are expensive” MYTH: “Sometimes these products are more expensive, but they’re not always,” says Barnes. “As accessibility develops and grows, you’re getting a different price point available to you all of the

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time. Keep checking accessibility,” she says. “There is the most amount of work to be done in this sector but, therefore, that’s where the innovation is happening. This is the area to watch as a direct result of that.”

“My whole kit needs to be organic or natural” MYTH: It’s difficult to transition to a completely natural and organic kit, so build it up slowly. “As a make-up artist, what’s lacking in the organic world is eye shadows and colour with really good pigment, because usually they’re very chemical,” says Beasley. “That’s where you have to cut corners and get that balance for yourself.” If you’re making the switch, start with foundation. “The foundation is the most important one for me, because that’s going right next to the skin,” he says. “I think you can cut corners with powders and blushers, but when it comes to anything with a liquid format, that’s where it’s worth taking the time to find a good, organic product to invest in.”


69 Make-up

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Inika Organic Certified Organic Pure Perfection Primer

Jane Iredale Beyond Matte Liquid Foundation

Inika Organic’s primer is 100% natural and holds certification from COSMOS, Choose Cruelty Free (CCF), and is also organic and certified Halal. The hydrating formula creates a great canvas for make-up application. Trade: £17.50 020 3713 0149 inikaorganic.com

The liquid mineral formula is both vegan and cruelty-free, with longlasting results. The semi-matte finish is buildable and perfect for clients with oily or combination skin types who prefer a liquid formula. RRP: £39.95 020 8450 2020 iiaa.eu

English Mineral Makeup Company Vegan Mascara The English Mineral Makeup Company range uses 100% mineral ingredients with no irritation-causing additives, such as artificial or chemical colours, mineral oils, perfumes, preservatives or man-made minerals. The products are also vegan-friendly, 100% natural, cruelty-free and suitable for sensitive skin. RRP: £21 stockist@englishmineralmakeup.co.uk englishmineralmakeup.co.uk

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Nail Notes

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TIME is

money From pricing your manicure services correctly to upselling treatment add-ons to clients, mobile nail tech Metta Francis reveals how to charge what you’re worth as a freelancer – and get it

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he holy grail for any mobile nail business is knowing how to make more money while working less, and tech Metta Francis has the answer. After establishing her mobile nail business Nails by Mets in London almost 10 years ago, she’s been able to steadily grow the business and improve profits year after year, despite working fewer hours than other techs. Francis reveals how you can adapt your mobile nail business so that it runs more successfully than ever before, increasing your profits, client base and work-life balance.

5 ways to work smarter and earn more as a mobile nail tech: 1. Make sure to charge what you’re worth – and then some “So many nail techs are charging too little for their work and usually spend a full day on the road visiting clients back to back. Not only can this be stressful and physically taxing, but once you work out the costs versus the revenue received, many end up earning very little profit,” says Francis. “Therefore, make sure you know exactly how much your treatments cost – factoring in products, petrol, disposables, and travel time – and then factor in your wage. Also, analyse your service radius and make sure that you’re focusing on working within a certain area.

You then charge extra for clients who live outside that radius to ensure you don’t spend too many hours on the road travelling. It really is about charging smarter, upselling your services and visiting a handful of clients a day instead of many.” She adds: “For example, you might charge £20 for your mobile service, meaning you need to see five clients per day to make £100, whereas if you charged £50 per service you would only need to visit two customers.”

2. Offer the best products and services “Are you worried about how to justify your prices to clients? My advice is to offer them professional-only brands as it will make your service feel VIP. By stocking brands not readily available to members of the public to purchase, your services feel more professional and exclusive,” advises Francis. “While it’s important to dress comfortably when working, make sure you still look the part with a uniform and clear branding as it’s small things like this that will set you apart from the competition. It also gives your clients reassurance that you are the expert and it will help to justify your prices compared to someone rocking up in a pair of jeans and trainers.”

3. Focus on upskilling regularly “To ensure you’re providing clients with a five-star service every time, you have to invest in further

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education. There’s always room for improvement, and by learning a new treatment or skill, such as enhancements or nail art, you can add it to your menu to upsell, improving your efficiency. This ties in to my mantra of faster work = more profit,” explains Francis. “Take the time to look into refining your techniques too so you become a specialist and can justify more premium pricing. Research courses and follow key industry techs such as Marian Newman for inspiration. When looking into reputable training schools and educators, take particular note of their portfolio of work and the after-training support available.”

our businesses should be evolving to support this,” explains Francis. “Clients are also more inclined to spend more when paying with a credit card, knowing they can pay it off at a later date. Card transaction fees are minimal and usually more than justified by the increase in spend. “You can also take booking fees with credit or debit card over the phone or online to confirm bookings and this helps to prevent last-minute cancellations or no-shows. Don’t forget to have clear booking fees, terms and conditions and cancellation policies on your website and social media pages.”

4. Provide the option for clients to pay by credit or debit card

5. Don’t forget about retailing

“If you don’t offer a card payment option then you should. If you’re a cash-only business then you’re limiting your ability to upsell additional treatments and retail products. We’re moving towards a cashless society and

“Another effective way to increase your revenue is to sell products to clients, which may not always feel natural to do as a mobile nail tech. Provide your client with thorough aftercare information and make recommendations for products throughout the service they’re having,” says Francis. “For example, if you notice your client’s nails are particularly weak and brittle, recommend a suitable strengthening product and let them know that you have it available to purchase. Your client will appreciate your expert knowledge and the convenience of being able to buy direct from you. “It’s also a good idea to suggest products they can use daily to maintain their nails at home in between appointments, such as hand creams and cuticle balms and oils.” PB

Metta Francis is founder of Londonbased mobile nail business Nail by Mets. Check out her work on Instagram @nailbymets

professionalbeauty.co.uk


BACK in

business The National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF) has created a free reopening guide for salons, covering how to manage appointments, the safety precautions to put in place and more

S

alons across the country are starting to gear up for reopening in July and the National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF) is doing all it can to support everyone in the industry as we move into the next phase of these very challenging times. “We have developed an in-depth guide to reopening which is free for everyone to download,” says NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “The guide was developed with input from members, our health and safety team, and UK industry bodies. “It covers a wide range of key topics, including what you need to do before reopening and the strict health and safety measures you’ll need to have in place when you are back in business. It also includes advice for taking back financial control and information for space and room renters.” The free guide can be downloaded at nhbf.co.uk/ back-to-business-guide. Non-members will need to register on the NHBF website to download the guide: nhbf.co.uk/join.

How to manage treatment appointments when you reopen “You will need to decide which treatments you will be offering when you first reopen,” says Hall. “For example, the NHBF’s recommendation is to avoid those which involve working near the eyes, nose and mouth, or where there is a risk of contact with body fluids. If you do offer these services, you must carefully consider the risks and record how you will manage them.” She adds: “You may also face a huge demand for appointments when clients hear you are about to reopen, so it’s important to decide in advance how you will manage this. For example, will you operate a first come, first served approach? Or give priority to those whose appointments were cancelled when you had to professionalbeauty.co.uk

close in March?” Another option is to give priority to clients who generate the most income for your salon. If you don’t already know who they are, find out how to use your salon software to find this information.

Keep on top of employment law changes “Make sure you’re up to date with the new employment law that has come into force so far in 2020 as there have also been some changes to the annual leave rules,” says Hall. You can find out more at nhbf.co.uk/newemployment-law and nhbf.co.uk/new-annual-leaverules. The NHBF’s updates can be found at its coronavirus information hub: nhbf.co.uk/coronavirus and on social media @nhbfsocial.

Exclusive resources for NHBF members The NHBF is also working on a range of member-only resources to help with the transition to reopening. “These include a detailed employment law guide which addresses a number of questions that employers will face when staff begin to return from furlough, as well as a range of templates, from risk assessments and posters, to staff and client communications,” explains Hall.

The NHBF For less than 80p per day, the National Hair & Beauty Federation will help you boost your beauty business while keeping you safe, legal and up to date with all the latest business laws: nhbf.co.uk

Join the NHBF before the end of June and quote PBJ25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

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May to 30 th June 2020


5 marketing

Operational Advice

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SECRETS of

digital

While the lockdown period has been incredibly tough, one positive to come from it is that most of us have improved our digital skills. Karen Davis reveals five digital tips salon owners can carry through into reopening

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any salon and spa owners have taken the opportunity during this enforced closure period to revisit their online presence and ramp it up so that this asset is working full time for them when their business is up and running again. Here are five pieces of digital advice to see your salon through coronavirus lockdown and out the other side.

1. Get to know your client base Do you think you know who your customers are? Let’s just make sure. Go through all your customer records and make a spreadsheet. Extract the following data: • Age • How many times they come to your salon in a year • Which treatment(s) they have • How much they spend in a year; do they buy products? Now put it into age groups, then into treatment types so you can see any potential trends. Spend time looking at it yourself and see if there are any standout results. What is this data telling you and what can you improve? What’s the average spend per client, per visit? How many buy products? How many clients have only been once – any thoughts on why? What are your most popular treatments? Can you improve these? Really think about what the data is showing.

3. Master the basics of SEO Next, clean up your website. Go through each page and look at what you’ve said with search engine optimisation (SEO) in mind: if you use certain keywords you’re more likely to come up in Google searches when potential clients are looking for salons or spas. Use websites like audiense to profile your audience; then you can find out which words they search for. Try wordstream as well to look at words people search for – you can get free trials on most sites.

4. Showcase your expertise Why pay someone else to promote your salon? The good news is that you are already an influencer. Your clients choose to come to you regularly for their treatments. Why? Because they trust your expertise. An influencer is just that, someone whose opinion is trusted, and that’s you so let’s start to put you as an influencer to work. Lookfantastic has launched a social initiative to help support self-employed beauty professionals. The beauty retailer is expanding its influencer programme to independent salon owners, therapists and nail techs, offering them the opportunity to create content on their social channels around topics relevant to lookfantastic customers. You then receive a link and a code to include in each post, with every sale that comes via the link or the code earning you commission.

2. Build a client profile

5. Focus on online retail

From the data, are you able to profile different clients? Could you say that your 18 to 20-year-old clients mainly come for waxing whereas your 40-year-old clients tend to visit you for facials, for example? Make a note of who buys products. Are you able to split them into different databases so that once you’re fully operational again, you can email them with relevant offers? This means they are more likely to respond to the messaging you put out and you won’t clutter their inbox with stuff that’s of no interest

If you haven’t already, get an online shop going and direct your customers to it. I recommend Shopify as it’s pretty easy and you can get a one-month free trial. Your clients come to you for your expertise, so why would they not buy what you recommend for them at your shop? PB

to them.

Karen Davis is a specialist in digital PR for the beauty industry with more than 25 years’ experience. She is also an author, podcaster and beauty blogger

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Lava Shells Social Distancing Back Massage Shared Beauty Secrets, distributor of Lava Shells, has formulated a new treatment for salons and spas to offer to clients when they reopen following the coronavirus lockdown period. The Lava Shells Social Distancing Back Massage is a 25-minute treatment that uses

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sanitary and non-porous self-heating Lava Shells to relax the body and mind, along with aromatherapy blended Sensory Retreats Wellbeing Oils. There is no face-to-face contact in treatment and loyal clients can bring in their own Lava Shells for use during the massage if they like. The heat and touch can be adapted according to the client’s needs and the company’s crystal sound healing, which promotes deep relaxation on a vibration level, is available as an add-on. As part of the company’s new 20:20 Together Affiliation Programme, the treatment can be offered with a 20% off discount voucher. Shared Beauty Secrets recommends charging from £35 for the 25-minute treatment. Call the brand on 01295 235511

Make your salon’s reopening a success with these acne-fighting facials and a “social distancing” back massage

Katherine Daniels Photo-Dynamic Therapy Skincare brand Katherine Daniels’ new results-driven facial Photo-Dynamic Therapy combines high-density diode light waves with light activated concentrates to target four of the biggest skin concerns – ageing, sensitivity, pigmentation and acne. Each version of the facial begins with a resurfacing peel to remove dead cells from the surface and aid the delivery of key ingredients into the skin. Next, one of four light-activated, photo-dynamic concentrates are applied to tackle either lines and wrinkles; rosacea and sensitive skin; pigmentation and dark spots; or acne and breakouts. High-intensity LED light is then used to activate the client’s chosen concentrates, with red, yellow, green and blue light options available. A treatment boost containing a concentration of active ingredients is then given to finish the treatment. The treatment comes in three options – Advanced Treatment, Red Carpet Treatment and Blast Treatment. Katherine Daniels recommends charging from £65 for the 60-minute treatment. Call the brand on 01767 682288 professionalbeauty.co.uk

Treatment News

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Treatment News

78 Hydrafacial New Boosters and Dr Paul Nassif. The treatment begins with lymphatic drainage using lowpressure glass suction tubes in a directional method to massage and drain the lymph nodes. Next, Vortex-Cleansing and HydraPeel Exfolitation is used to cleanse the skin, after which a non-irritating mix of salicylic and glycolic acids is applied to help loosen debris. The fourth step uses Vortexextraction technology to aid in the removal of blackheads and impurities, before Vortex Fusion is applied to deliver an antioxidant formula, infused with peptides and Hydrafacial has launched four new boosters in its treatment range. The ReGen GF Booster was developed in-house and targets signs of ageing including loss of elasticity. The HydraFacial Rozatrol Booster hydrates, while Brightalive Booster tackles pigmentation, and both have been developed with ZO SkinHealth. Meanwhile, NassifMD Hydraglucan Intense Hydration Booster claims to repair and rejuvenate skin and has been created in partnership with Nassif MD Dermaceuticals

111Spa/Clinic 111Aromatics body treatments 111Spa/Clinic has launched 111Aromatics – a range of body treatments that fuse holistic oils, healing scents and signature massage techniques designed to ease tension and stress. Created by 111Skin founder Dr Yannis Alexandrides, in collaboration with renowned aromatherapist Michelle Roques-O’Neill, the treatment range includes The Vitality Experience, which uses sweet marjoram and warm stones to ease tension – ideal for athletes at all levels; and The Serenity Experience, designed to alleviate emotional stress through the use of rose quartz with jasmine, tuberose and lime blossom scents. Also available is the frankincense-infused The Metropolitan Experience, inspired by managing director Daniel Smith’s busy life in London, with the aim to help city workers to unwind. It involves deep-tissue massage, stretching and spinal work, as well as an awakening ritual that combines cryotherapy-inspired and anti-inflammatory essential oils with tensionrelieving and circulation-stimulating techniques. 111Spa/Clinic recommends charging from £180 for the 60-minute treatment. Call the brand on 020 8103 9111 professionalbeauty.co.uk

hyaluronic acid, into the skin. Finally, red or blue LED light is applied to stimulate collagen production or reduce acnecausing bacteria. Hydrafacial recommends charging from £130 for the 60-minute treatment. Call the brand on 01788 72007


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Mii has launched several new products, including the Dreamscape Palette, available in two colourways – Free Spirt and Temptress. Each palette houses four ultra-pigmented eyeshadows, a sun-kissed bronzer and a pearlescent highlighter. Also new is HydraBoost Lip Lover, a formula for smoother, fuller lips, containing ayurvedic herb swertia chirata extract and available in six shades, including peachy nude Summer Lovin’ and watermelon red Hot Tropics. Finally, Mii’s new Skyliner Pencil is a liner that is buildable, blendable and offers rich pigmented definition. Trade: £14.98 for Dreamscape Palette; £8.75 for HydraBoost Lip Lover; £6.98 for Skyliner Pencil 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) miicosmetics.com

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Bright future Hot summer nail and make-up colours hint at happier times ahead, while skincare gets to work on pigmentation to boost radiance

Light Elegance Summer Squeeze, Light Elegance’s new colour and glitter gel collection, brings bold, bright shades inspired by fresh colours and textures found in fruit. The six colour gels are coral Charming Cherry; guava pink Devil Wears Guava; watermelon pink Dragonfruit; baby pink Strawberries & Cream; electric green Sublime Lime; and baby yellow Sunkissed. New glitters include silver and pink A Couple of Coconuts; neon yellow Bad Banana; hot pink Fruit Snacks; lime green Kiwi to My Heart; orange and peach Nice Melons; and blue, pink and chartreuse Sangria. Trade: £88.95 for full colour or glitter collection; £18.95 each 0113 217 3803 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

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New Products

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New Products

82 NAF! Stuff NAF! Stuff Pro is a new professional line from nail tech Tammy Koslowski, who owns Naf! Salon in Glasgow. The first products are Cuticle Oil Desk Bottles (30ml) and Pens (3.5ml), each available in six different scents: Cherry, Coconut, Watermelon, Peach, Lavender, and Mint and Eucalyptus. The range is vegan, cruelty-free and pocket-friendly. Key ingredients include vitis vinifera seed oil, avocado oil, jojoba seed oil and vitamin E. A brush pen is included with 30ml bottles. Trade: £5.50 for 3.5ml pens; £12 for 30ml Desk Oils (inc VAT) nafstuff.com

Australian Bodycare Eucalyptus Peppermint Skin Wash is infused with an extraction of 100% natural tea tree oil from the melaleuca alternfolia, providing a distinct fragrance and anti-bacterial, antiseptic and healing properties. The mixture of oils and extracts are formulated to boost overall skin health. The product comes in a pump-action 500ml retail size, with more sizes due to launch later this year. Trade: £14.60 01892 750850 australianbodycare.com

Buttercups Uniforms More styles have been added to the Santiago 100% linen-look line, which combines the look of linen with the durability of polyester. New styles include the B320 V Neck Tunic, available in plum and lilac shades and featuring a crossover neckline and empire-line waist; the B035E High V-Neck Tunic, which includes a hip-skimming length and shorter sleeves; the B036E Long-Sleeve Tunic, with a removable, obi-style belt; and the BO22E Crop Trousers, which has large pockets. Trade: £34.99 for B320 V Neck Tunic; £37.99 for B035E High V-Neck Tunic; £37.99 for B036E Long-Sleeve Tunic; £26.99 for B022E Crop Trousers 0844 910 0865 buttercupsuniforms. com

Dermalogica New Retinol Clearing Oil combines salicylic acid with time-released retinol to prevent breakouts and tackle the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Other key ingredients include argan, rosehip seed and golden jojoba oils. Also new is Active Clay Cleanser – a prebiotic balancing formula for oily skin which balances the microbiome. It includes kaolin clay to absorb excess oil; activated binchotan charcoal to cleanse; and botanical lipids to protect the natural lipid barrier. Trade: £33.40 for Retinol Clearing Oil; £17 for Active Clay Cleanser 0800 917 7147 dermalogica.co.uk


New Products

83 Mavala The Summer 2020 Poolside collection from Mavala embraces bold, off-beat looks in six bright shades, each named after one of the world’s most famous beach resorts. Santa Monica is deep blue; Mombasa a pure light blue; Phuket a turquoise green; Porotfino a sparkling rose; Goa a rosy red; and La Perias a fiery apricot shade. The product is designed to minimise solvent evaporation, is vegan-friendly and packaged in golden capped 5ml travel-size bottles to reduce wastage. Trade: £3.08 each 01732 459 412 mavala.co.uk

Salon System Salon System has introduced Cream Developer to its LashTint range, designed to allow safe, controlled treatments, as an alternative to the existing Liquid Developer. It follows a redesign of the LashTint range, which comes in five shades: black, blue/black, brown, and new colours light brown and graphite. Trade: £4.55 for Cream Developer; £4.50 per Lash Tint 020 8573 9907 salonsystem.com

Espa Modern Alchemy is a new skincare line by Espa. It is inspired by harmonising rituals in ancient Ayurvedic healing, Chinese medicine and Shamanic practices, and uses ingredients such as adaptogenic roots and herbs and mushroom extract. Products include Purifying Polish, a cleansing balm; Anointing Bath and Body Oil; Grounding Crystals; Cleansing Milk; Nourishing Balm and Hydrating Lotion. RRPs: £35– £80 01606 336349 espaskincare.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

BeautyLab BeautyLab London has turned its time and resources towards creating a new 70% alcohol hand gel, designed to keep skin clean and safeguarded, as well as hydrated and soft. Available in 200ml and 500ml sizes, the gel is non-sticky and non-drying. Ingredients include radish root extract, which delivers effective antibacterial action; white willow bark extract, for anti-inflammatory purposes; and aloe vera, which locks in moisture and soothes the skin. RRP: £15 for 200ml; £25 for 500ml 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com


New Products

84 Gharierni During the Covid-19 pandemic, Gharierni has turned its attention to producing face masks with exchangeable nanofilters. Offering a filter efficiency between 80%–93%, the material is consistent of PP spunbond/meltblown 37g/m2, nanofibers layer of polymer PVDF and PP spunbond 20g/m2. While the filter is only exchangeable, the mask is washable at 60°C. For a close fit, the masks are available in men’s and women’s versions. Trade: €23.99 for mask with one filter; €10.74 for five filters +49 (0) 2841 883 0050 gharieni.com

The Gel Bottle Inc Six new shades have been added to the brand’s Nu Nudes gel-polish range. Adding to the previous six, the complete collection now features Vanilla, Almond, Honey, Cookie, Naked, Tan, Caramel, Woody, Brunette, Cocoa, Chocolate and Mocha. “I know that not one nude fits all,” says founder Daisy Kalnina. For a limited time, a 30% discount will be offered on this product to all techs. Trade: £174 0333 772 0965 thegelbottle.com

Caudalie Reef-safe Tan Prolonging After-Sun Lotion is enriched with grape water, aloe vera, natural pea extract and coconut oil to prolong tans, and is fragranced with monoi and white flowers. Also new is Vinoperfect Dark Spot Correcting Moisturizer, with viniferine, which Caudalie says is 62 times more effective than vitamin C; niacinamide, to even-out skintone; and antioxidant white peony. RRP: £15 for Tan Prolonging After-Sun Lotion; £34 for Vinoperfect Dark Spot Correcting Moisturizer 020 7720 7111 uk.caudalie.com

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Comfort Zone Comfort Zone has launched Hand Hygiene Gel, a rinse-free hydroalcoholic detergent with 63% ethyl alcohol. Due to its gel texture, the product absorbs rapidly and leaves skin feeling soft. Vegetable propylene glycol offers quick drying and a non-greasy texture. The blend of natural essential oils is characterised by scents of thyme, rosemary, sage, verbena and mastic. The product is sold in 75ml and 250ml sizes, with £1 of each sale of the latter being donated directly to the NHS. RRP: £5.50 for 75ml; £13 for 250ml 020 3301 0496 comfortzone.it


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Classified

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Career Path

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How to make it as a...

celebrity

THERAPIST

Having worked backstage at Strictly Come Dancing and the MTV Awards, skincare and tanning expert Michaella Bolder shares her top tips for how to work with famous-name clients

1. Develop a USP “During my training, I was always a little bit naughty. When I was learning how to massage, I would put my elbows into people’s shoulders. The teacher would come over and say, ‘You’re not allowed to do that’, but I always wanted to add more. When I went to work in a salon, again I was pushing the boundaries because I was always mixing products together. I would put paraffin wax on top of serums on clients’ faces because I knew how good the skin would feel afterwards. “I never knew I wanted to be a facialist, specifically, but I knew I wanted to do things differently. After a few years, I cut out the other treatments and focused solely on the face and body because they’re what I had a passion for.”

2. Network with industry leaders “You have to put yourself out there and contact big brands, perhaps through an agency. It’s always good to have a relationship with those companies because they often have celebrities on their books or work red-carpet events. At first, you could say, ‘I would really love to get into celebrity work and I’d be happy to work with this person or this event free of charge’. “I remember when I first started in the industry, people would say, ‘You’re going to have to be here for a long time. It takes at least 10 years to make it’. And they weren’t wrong. The hard work, long hours and low pay aren’t always easy, but that’s what gets your name out there.”

3. Follow influencers “Find a therapist you love and do your research on them. There are so many great names out there: Renée Rouleau, Sarah Chapman, Nichola Joss, for example. What is it that they do that inspires you? From there, you could reach out to them through Instagram or email and professionalbeauty.co.uk

ask if you can shadow them. I learned in that way for around five to six years before focusing on facials. “However, don’t expect to always hear back. They’re not always going to be taking people on; I’m not at the moment. It takes a long time to get there, so don’t think that just one email to one person will do it. Try a few different options.”

4. Secure repeat bookings “I always say there’s no such thing as advertising in this industry, just word of mouth. You have one client, they tell their friends about you, then it keeps spreading out like branches on a tree. If you do your job the best you can, then it happens naturally. “After an initial treatment with a client, you have to be confident about saying, ‘Next time, we should really try this treatment. Can I book you in now?’ “If they seem unsure, say you have a discount coming up you can offer them there and then. If the client feels like they get good results for what they pay for, then it’s likely they’ll come back.”

5. Don’t treat celebrities any differently “When working with high-profile clients, it’s important you don’t acknowledge who they are. You often don’t even know whose house you’re going to, and it’ll usually be at silly o’clock in the morning or at night. “They’ll probably be in their pyjamas or a tracksuit. You can walk into anything. There could be a team of 20 people there and you just have to be the person that blends into the background. “Regardless, go there, do your job and then leave. You’re not there to be a counsellor, so don’t dig for information. You have to let the client give you that opportunity. Just nurture them with your treatment and do your best job, because that’s what you’re there for.” PB


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Profile for Professional Beauty UK

Professional Beauty June 2020  

Professional Beauty June 2020  

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