Professional Beauty April 2020 by Professional Beauty UK

AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS

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April 2020 | professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Regulars 13 News UK salons lose £1.2bn per year to no-shows; £250m Therme Manchester opening in 2023 31 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online

Contents

Apr

Contents

32 Digital direction Creating engaging Instagram Stories 37 Out & about Behind the scenes at the industry’s biggest parties 43 Insider Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 57 Ward’s world Hellen Ward asks, does a sisterhood exist in the industry? 59 Ask the experts The difference between vegan and organic make-up 101 Hot topic 1 How to set up a beauty bank in your salon 111 Hot topic 2 The questions to ask before stocking CBD beauty products 123 Nail notes Try these speedy nail art looks 125 Operational advice Disclaimers and waivers: do they really protect you? 127 Treatment news The hype around 3D-Powersculpt; our review of Hi Brow Lamination 133 New products Nail innovations from Light Elegance, Mylee and The Edge 144 Career Path Christina Salcedas on the role of a wellbeing director

Features

On the cover

51 Best in the business The Professional Beauty Awards 2020 shortlist is here. See who made the cut

77 Leaders of the pack From refill initiatives to ecocharity partners, we round up the sustainable practices the big beauty brands are implementing so you know who has top-notch green credentials

69 Talking to… Dija Ayodele The aesthetician reveals why she’s opened a clinic that specialises in treatments for darker skin tones 90 Recycling decoded We explain what these 12 recycling icons actually mean 92 Workplace wellness 2.0 Are co-working spaces that give employees access to beauty and wellness therapies the future? 97 What supp The nutrition market is offering supplements that better target skin concerns. We delve into the trend

103 Mind over matter With psychodermatology trending, we explore the power of the mind-skin link and how salons and spas are incorporating it into treatments 115 Fall into fashion PB went behind the scenes at London Fashion Week to discover which make-up and nail art looks are set to be big in AW20

Cover image: Laura Ashley

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The impact that both mind and gut health have on the skin is well understood in the beauty and spa profession but it’s taking a while to trickle through into consumer awareness. The recent focus on mental wellbeing has tended to centre around the impact that stress and anxiety have on physical health, yet its effect on the skin can also be substantial, leading to conditions such as eczema or acne that can, in a vicious cycle, exacerbate those negative emotions. The study of this link between the mind and the skin is known as psychodermatology and we explore its significance for therapists and salons on page 103, sharing tips from neuroscientists and dermatologists on how a deeper consultation can help you get to the root cause of some skin issues, while incorporating emotional techniques such as visualisation into your treatments can work towards tackling them. Nutrition is an equally important piece of the skin-health puzzle, and this month we delve a little deeper into its role. Our focus on supplements on page 97 explores formulas that can be tailored to address specific skin concerns and meet the needs of each individual client’s lifestyle, be that by combatting the effects of pollution or delivering vegan ingredients in eco-friendly packaging. Of course, the key to long-term change is to consider all elements of wellbeing in a holistic way, and our Trend Watch piece on page 92 explores the new wave of businesses doing exactly that. These trendy new co-working spaces allow people to incorporate treatments and fitness, as well as mental wellbeing and nutritional initiatives, into their daily lives in a sustainable way that also improves employee productivity and retention.

Editor

@Pro_Beauty01

@Pro_Beauty

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Subscriptions enquiries: 01371 851875 professionalbeauty@escosubs.co.uk Editor: Eve Oxberry eve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7378 Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley amanda@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9064 Content writer: Eleanor Vousden eleanor@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7362 Social media editor: Chris Halpin chris@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7368 Intern: Kieran Read kieran@professionalbeauty.co.uk Contributor: Melanie Macleod Sales director: Steve James steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Peter Bishop peter@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7364

Jack Diamond jack@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4792 Caroline Ruston caroline.r@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4798 Amanda Strange amanda.s@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4793 Sibel Suleyman sibel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4794 Nur Tanyeri nur@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4796 Classified and recruitment sales: Gabriel Lartey gabriel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7376 Publisher: Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4799 Design and production: ICD, imagecreativedesign.co.uk Printing: Walstead, walstead-uk.com

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SYNERGY

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13 News

News UK beauty and hair salons lose £1.2bn per year due to no-shows No-shows are still a huge challenge for the industry, with UK beauty and hair salons losing up to £1.2 billion every year as a result of clients failing to keep pre-booked appointments. Research from software provider Powered by Flossie found that the issue has affected the capital the worst, with just under a third (30%) of women in London admitting to not showing up to an appointment. A failure to digitaltise the booking process could be one of the reasons behind the lost profitability, found the report, with 75% of salons still using paper systems. One in three millennials said they

booked their most recent appointment online, and as this demographic comes in for treatments more frequently than any other age group this is important information – 18 to 24 years olds visit salons on average once per month in comparison to the overall average of one

appointment every six to eight weeks, discovered the report. However, an additional third of millennials said they were unable to make an appointment because their chosen salon didn’t have an online booking option, while a further fifth said their online experience was so frustrating that it put them off booking altogether. “Whether it’s causing them to lose revenue via no-shows or preventing customers from easily accessing the services they want, legacy technology is hurting the hair and beauty industry,” said Jenene Crossan, chief executive and founder of Powered by Flossie.

£250m wellbeing resort Therme Manchester opening in 2023 A £250 million “tropical paradise” wellbeing resort will open in Manchester in 2023, combining water-based activities with spa treatments in a stunning botanical garden. Situated across 28 acres, Therme Manchester will replace the current EventCity venue in Trafford Park, and is the latest development in Therme Group’s global expansion programme to create the most advanced wellbeing resorts in cities around the world. The resort will feature a twoacre, bio-diverse wellbeing garden in the shape of a Rose (the national flower of England), which will be a space for socialising, learning and discovery; a large family

zone with waterslides, indoor and outdoor pools, steam rooms and a palm tree relaxation area; and a dedicated adults area with warmwater lagoons set among botanical gardens, swim-up bars, therapeutic mineral baths and saunas. Visitors will also have access to water-based fitness classes, yoga

and Pilates sessions, alongside a range of wellbeing treatments inspired by traditions from across the globe. The resort is forecasted to attract up to two million visitors per year, within five years, which would make it the most visited waterbased attraction in Europe.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Organic and natural beauty market value soars 23% to £106.4 million The certified organic and natural beauty market has risen 23% to reach more than £106 million. This is the ninth year of consecutive double-digit growth in the market, and the third biggest percentage growth since 2010. Findings from the Soil Association’s Beauty and Wellbeing 2020 Report found that 83% of people thought a product was better for their health if it was organic, while 81% felt that by choosing organic they were doing the right thing for the environment. Subsequently, 64% of consumers are now looking for products with recyclable packaging and more than half (56%) said they looked for certifications that allow them to support the causes they care about. However, unlike organic food and drink businesses, beauty brands are not legally obligated to be certified

// Clare Dickens has been appointed managing director of Totally UK, distributor of Germaine de Capuccini (GDC), bringing more than 25 years’ experience from companies such as Zelens and Natura Blissé. Eugenia Silva has been appointed GDC’s global ambassador.

organic. Any brand can claim to be organic, even if it only contains 1% organic ingredients. The Soil Association is continuing to push for transparency in the market with its certification logo, which meets the Cosmetic Organic and Natural Standard (COSMOS).

Sk:n becomes the UK’s largest clinic group after acquiring Courthouse Clinics Sk:n has purchased The Adonia Medical Group, the parent company of Courthouse Clinics, cementing its credentials as the largest independent aesthetic clinic network in the UK. The acquisition of Courthouse Clinics – which has 11 UK locations in Birmingham, Brentwood, Esher, Haywards Heath, Hereford, London,

inbrief

News

Maidenhead, Sheffield, Southampton, Watford and Wilmslow – takes the company to 90 clinics worldwide. “This is another great addition to our portfolio, which will allow us to reach into new clinic locations while adding greater diversity to our group,” said Darren Grassby, chief executive at Sk:n. Paul Wilkinson, from the Adonia Medical Group, added: “The acquisition is a fantastic opportunity to join forces with the largest independent aesthetics clinic network in the UK.” Sk:n was acquired by private equity firm TriSpan in May 2019, forming the Sk:n Group. It has since bought Destination Skin, Flint + Flint Clinics and The Harley Medical Group.

// 78% of Brits think skincare products should be crueltyfree, and that animal testing should be eliminated, and 40% said they will only buy cosmetics using solely natural ingredients, according to research from PR agency Ambience CBD. // The House of Wisdom, a self-development wellness space running talks and workshops, has opened on London’s Euston Road. The 2,500sq ft studio is offering annual memberships with unlimited access to classes for £1,000. It will offer yoga, breathing meditation, sound healing and more. // In collaboration with distributor Vilasa and its men’s skincare line Gentleman’s Tonic, House Spa at Dormy House Hotel in the Cotswolds has launched a range of four men’s spa treatments. There are 60-minute and 90-minute facials, plus Back On Track, a 60-minute back cleanse and massage, and the 75-minute Gentlemen’s Tonic Treatment, which includes both a massage and a facial. // Sweet Squared’s wax:one education ambassadors are running The Wax Scoop: free, three-hour taster sessions sharing tips on growing your waxing business and increasing customer loyalty. These sessions will run throughout March and May.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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News

inbrief // Aesthetic equipment supplier Harley Technologies has become the UK distributor of EMSlim by Dae Young Medical and launched the muscle-stimulation device into the UK market. Lee Bouldertone has joined Harley Technologies as managing director. Boulderstone was previously managing director of aesthetic device company BTL. // Sensory Retreats, the massage treatment brand from Lava Shells distributor Shared Beauty Secrets, has launched into Samudra Spa on Richard Branson’s privately owned Necker Island. Spa manager Jess McDonald said, “I haven’t experienced a massage treatment so complete as this before.” // Appointment software Timely has announced its partnership with payment platform Laybuy which will enable salons to offer their clients part–pay financing and the option of buy now, pay later in six weekly interest–free payments. Timely said its accounts that offer part payment have seen a 79% increase in average customer transaction. // Titanic Spa has appointed long-standing staff member Carly Boothroyd as its operations manager. Boothroyd commented: “Titanic Spa has become home to me. My new role means that I can play an important part in shaping the business.” // George Smedley Group brand All That Jazz collaborated with celebrity nail technician Julie Bryan to do the nails for the Oh Polly show at London Fashion Week AW20 in February. Bryan used a selection of cool nude shades including Pixie Whispers, Vision Of Love and My Ballerina Girl.

“Phygital” experience the key to securing gen Z’s beauty spend Generation Z (those aged between four and 24) prefer to research beauty products online and then purchase in a physical store or salon, according to research from The Pull Agency’s Future of Beauty report. Beauty is an important category for gen Z, with 60% having purchased a beauty product by the time they are 14, and 52% of this demographic look to Instagram to find new beauty products. “Technology is a key element and many younger consumers tend to be open to trying new solutions like voice search or augmented or virtual reality,” says Claire Rance, head of brand strategy at The Pull Agency. In fact, gen Z spend around 10.6 hours per day consuming content and expect brands to provide personalised experiences both online and in store. According to the report, the combination of bricks-and-mortar

stores and digital technology (dubbed a “phygital” experience) will be key to engage this digitally savvy generation, which accounts for 33% of the UK population and has an annual spending power of £7 billion. Unlike other generations, gen Z are less swayed by celebrities and instead look to social media influencers and product reviews before making a purchase. The factors that are most likely to impact their purchase decisions are whether the product is made from natural ingredients (58%), if it’s cruelty-free (51%) and if it uses recycled packaging (42%).

A fifth of small businesses fell into their overdraft last year Small businesses struggled to manage their cash flow last year, with one in five falling into their overdraft, found research by accounting software Fluidly. Of the 19,799 businesses surveyed, those having to use their overdrafts rose from 13.9% in March 2019 to 17.8% in January 2020. Plymouth came out top as the area where most small companies had to resort to their overdraft to survive, with 35.7% doing so, followed closely by Southampton (34.3%), Peterborough (32.8%), Shrewsbury (31.1%) and Preston (29.7%). Other areas affected included Stoke-on-Trent (27.4%), Manchester

(26.5%), Bristol (26.4%), Milton Keynes (26.1%) and York (26%). Reasons cited for this reliance on overdrafts included late payments, the impact of Brexit and continuing economic uncertainty.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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News

inbrief

// Oxyjet was involved in facialist Adeela Crown’s annual pre-Oscars skin suite at Hotel Bel-Air this year, offering oxygen-based skin rejuvenation treatments to celebrities including Sir Kenneth Branagh, Daisy Ridley and Annette Benning. // Aesthetic device manufacturer Cynosure will host a Body Contouring Masterclass called “An Introduction to Body Contouring” on April 21 at The King’s Fund, London, in partnership with dermatologist, aesthetic surgeon and laser specialist Dr Klaus Hoffman. // Louella Belle’s Red Carpet Manicure was the official backstage spa partner at this year’s BRIT Awards, tending to the nails of artists, guest presenters, management and production. // Nu Beauty Rooms salon in Chingford Mount, South London, has introduced the Brazilian Booty Lift treatment to help new mothers to regain their pre-pregnancy figures without resorting to surgery. // The Eyelash Design Company has launched Hi Brow Lamination in South Korea, partnering with distributor Soojin Park. The team recently attended the launch where they conducted a seminar introducing the technique to the local team.

No-shows, burnout and upskilling top beauty freelancers’ challenges Client cancellations and work burnout were raised as some of the biggest challenges facing freelance beauty therapists in our recent PB focus group. The meeting brought together freelance professionals from across the industry, from nail technicians to makeup artists to lash techs, to discuss the biggest market issues and opportunities. The freelancers often experienced no-shows from clients, and many mobile therapists had taken bookings for two or more treatments, but when they turned up to their client’s home, they found that they no longer wanted one of the treatments, meaning a loss of profit.

The group also voiced concerns about their lack of work-life balance, with several feeling that they could not say no to work, particularly around busy periods such as Christmas, where one attendee worked an 85 hour week. Despite this, the group had found opportunities, either by retailing additional product types in an effort to improve profits, or extending their services to events in other industries as a bolt-on feature. Additionally, many have trained in new services to upskill, so they could raise their prices accordingly.

Salons boycott gossip mags after Caroline Flack’s death Beauty salons around the country have pledged to boycott gossip magazines following the death of television presenter Caroline Flack. The Boutique Hair and Beauty Salon in Cullompton, Devon, was one of the first to announce the ban, stating on Facebook: “We have decided as a salon to bin the gossip magazines and will no longer be offering you these while you’re at the salon. With the devastating news about Caroline Flack we will not be promoting these magazines that slate people, put people down, advertise people’s personal problems, disrespect people’s

Kent, and Kolo Hair and Beauty in

outfits... the list goes on.” The statement

Chorley, Lancashire.

has since been shared 24,000 times. Several salons have followed suit, including The Beau Boutique in Ashford,

Some will instead be offering educational magazines, books and even colouring books for clients.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Points-based immigration to impact spa recruitment The Government’s plans to introduce a points-based immigration system from January 2021 will make it harder for therapists to enter the UK, placing more pressure on the already difficult spa and salon recruitment situation, warns the National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF). The plans categorise the work of beauty and aesthetic therapists as “low-skilled”, owing to the often relatively low wages earned by professionals in these fields. This means that potential spa and salon staff wanting to live and work in the UK from January next year may struggle to earn the 70 “points” needed to qualify for a visa. The mandatory criteria for earning points are: • A job offer with a “sponsoring” company – 20 points • Job at appropriate skill level – 20 points • Ability to speak English at the required level – 10 points After these criteria have been met, other criteria that allow applicants to top up points include: • Minimum salary of £20,480, but to earn points the salary must be

£23,040 to £25,599 (10 points) or more than £25,600 (20 points) • Job on the Government’s jobs shortage list – 20 points. (The list currently includes biochemists, civil engineers, medical practitioners and architects, among others) • A doctorate-level degree (PhD) in a subject relevant to the job (10 points) or in a science, technology, engineering or maths subject (20 points). Hilary Hall, NHBF chief executive, commented, “Under the new system, it’s unlikely that many beauty applicants will meet the points-based system criteria. “Salons looking to fill vacancies from overseas should make those appointments before December 31, 2020, as the new criteria will make it much harder to recruit foreign workers, whether they are EU or non-EU citizens.”

Pevonia launches Feed Your Beauty campaign Pevonia has launched the Feed Your Beauty campaign, which aims to encourage its clients to nourish their skin from the inside out. The skincare brand has created simple recipes inspired by the natural ingredients in its products to highlight the link between the skin and diet. Tackling the fact that much of the UK’s diet consists of unnatural and processed foods, the Feed Your Beauty campaign explains how these inorganic ingredients and overconsumption of sugar, alcohol, gluten and dairy trigger negative side effects and inflammation in the body. These symptoms often show up as blemishes, fine lines, wrinkles,

hyperpigmentation and sagginess: all visible effects on the skin. Maritza Rodriguez, global vice president of marketing and communications for Pevonia International, said: “We should each define our ideal path to wellness and it should incorporate mind, body and soul. Within the focus on the body lies skin health, which starts from within.”

inbrief // Dermalogica has announced Louise Lupton as its UK sales director. “My passion is co-creation and collaboration, which is what pulled me towards Dermalogica – a people–first brand,” said Lupton. “I’m thrilled to be on this continued journey with them.”

News

// Distributor Gerrard International took home seven awards from the prestigious Beauty Bible Awards 2020 in February, including a gold win in the Body Wash category for Spongellé’s Wild Flower treatment, and in Nail and Cuticle Treatment for Jessica Phenomen Oil. // Nail brand Nailchemy has teamed up with charity Beautiful Minds to release an exclusive six-piece gel-polish collection, with 50% of the procedures being split between mental health charities Mind, Papyrus and The Beautiful Minds project. Each polish in the range has been named after a saying of encouragement, such as gold Dream Big and silver Shine Bright. // AestheticSource will now handle UK distribution for US skincare brand Oxygenetix. AestheticSource co-founder and chief executive Lorna McDonnell commented: “We’re looking forward to growing the brand’s clinic base and providing the strong support it deserves.” // Spa group Champneys has settled out of court after it was accused of false cancer prevention claims in its food. The spa was accused of making claims that food including its apple crumble, could help reduce the risk of “cancer, cardiovascular disease and diabetes”.

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News

diarydates // April 6 Professional Beauty Cape Town The River Club, South Africa Platform to conduct business, network and source supplies. +27 (0)11 781 5970 probeauty.co.za // April 19-20 Scottish Hair & Beauty SEC, Glasgow A chance to attend live demonstrations and grow your network. 01332 227698 scottishhairandbeautyshow. com

// April 18-20 Spa Life Ireland Galgorm Spa & Golf Resort Ireland A platform for spa professionals to network. spalife.ie +353 (86) 868 8708 // May 3-4 Beauty UK NEC, Birmingham A trade show covering beauty, hair, barbering and holistic health. 01332 227680 beautyukshow.com // May 13-16 Spatec Europe Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort, Portugal Networking opportunity for spa industry. +1 410 857 9596 spateceu.com // May 18-19 Healing Summit Pine Cliffs Resort, Portugal Convention centred on wellbeing. +49 (0) 221 2053 1175 healingsummit.org

Georgie Smedley Group creates ambassador programme The Georgie Smedley Group (formerly Nail Harmony UK) has launched a brand ambassador programme that is working with nail technicians across the UK. The programme was created to develop relationships with influential techs in the industry, who have a following of between 1,000 and 100,000. So far, the company has appointed Alice Sanderson, Sophie Donaldson, Grace Anthony Downs, Amy Martin, Lisa Lilley, Diana Pajeva and Emily Cording (pictured

clockwise from top left). The ambassadors will be working with various brands within the group, including Gelish, Aeropuffing, All That Jazz UK, Urban Nails UK and all other Nail Harmony systems, and will be trialling new and existing products to share their feedback, as well as creating step-by-step tutorials.

DermaNutri to launch personalised nutrition and skincare hub Mel Turkerman, skin nutritionist and founder of skincare brand DermaNutri, is gearing up to launch The Skin Hub in May. The online platform will be a showcase for brands and individuals to recommend products and services to consumers via a personalised matchmaking service on the site. It will be a marketplace for brands, beauty and nutrition experts, holistic dermatologists and professionals in

the trade to connect with consumers, who can book services on the site and access educational editorial content, including expert Q&As and a skincare ingredient directory. The skin wellness website will offer personalised advice from selected nutrition experts, as well as promoting relevant recipes, natural skincare products, supplements, books, workshops and events. There will be a fee for brands or individuals be listed and promoted on the website via either a monthly or yearly plan. After receiving many requests from her talk at Professional Beauty London last year, Turkerman will also create an online skin wellness course for beauty therapists, which will be available on the new website and will focus on skin nutrition and how to impart this knowledge into beauty therapies.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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ai158255979388_Best foot forward - PRINT - Professional Beauty.pdf 1 24/02/2020 15:56:33

CMY

Digital

professional

beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Aurora Wellbeing: Lovely mention of our spa and beauty therapist Alice in one of the industry’s top publications, Professional Beauty, this month.

Hot topic Jennifer Comiskey, owner of The Sunflower Salon, Dundee: Thank you for featuring our work with Beauty Banks. I hope it inspires lots of salons to get involved! #dreambig #featured #feelingproud

Beauty salons boycott gossip magazines following Caroline Flack’s death Nikki Evans, owner of The Boutique in Cullompton, commented: “Thank you so much for reporting this. The Boutique in Cullompton made the original post; it’s now reached nearly five million people and even hit Australia. I have had salons all over the UK messaging me saying they are now doing it as well. #bekind #ditchthegossipmags.” Jacqueline Woodland, owner of April Hair Salon in Burnley, commented: “We recently began purchasing only magazines with a health and wellbeing focus or happy faces at the front, but now we have an all-out ban on goss!”

THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you regularly enforce a strict cancellation policy in your salon or spa?

47% YES

53% NO

Hot topic

Professional Beauty Awards 2020 shortlist announced Lysa Glover, owner of LG Nails & Beauty, Nottinghamshire, commented: “I’m absolutely stunned. Thank you for making me and my little salon a finalist. Congratulations to everyone who has made it through. What a great feeling!” Carla Chatburn, owner of Pure Perfection Salons, Lancashire, commented: “Wow, I am beyond happy to have been shortlisted for Employer of the Year in the Professional Beauty Awards 2020. This one is for my team.”

Follow Professional Beauty… and the team: @pro_beauty01 @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @eleanorvousden @katsjonouchi

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Digital Direction

What’s

THE STORY? With 500 million people now using Instagram Stories every day – and 40% of them visiting at least one business profile – it’s more important than ever to use this tool for your salon. PB’s social

media editor Chris Halpin, gives you some tips for using the service

ince launching the Stories feature in late 2016, Instagram has seen the feature go from strength to strength. Within a year, the tool had already overtaken its “rival” service Snapchat in daily active users. With more features constantly being added, it’s clear that Stories are here to stay in a major way. Similarly, Facebook Stories are slowly gaining more traction; Twitter is also testing its own version called “Fleets”. So if you’re not already using Stories – or you’re just getting started – here’s some tips that will help yours stand out on the list.

Compelling content works best Much like your general Instagram feed, Stories work based on an algorithm. While it’s not known exactly what the algorithm entails, audience retention seems to be particularly important for Stories. It’s pretty obvious that you wouldn’t want people to be skipping through your Stories without really viewing them – and Instagram doesn’t want that either. Content that encourages people to engage, or grabs their attention, is therefore the best to run on Stories. Instagram offers a number of tools to help with this. The Poll, Question and Quiz options are all great to use.

Make sure, though, that if you use these, you’re keeping them related to your business. Also, don’t overuse them: if there’s a poll in every Story you put up, then you run the risk of turning people off from engaging. Similarly, GIFs can be a fun way of adding some life to your Stories, but be careful about using too many. The recommendation is to use a maximum of two GIFs on a single Story. Finally, remember that you can always upload custom layouts for your Instagram Stories, along with text and logos. Apps such as Unfold, Adobe Spark or Canva have templates you can use to get creative with your Story designs. Many of them are free or have free elements.

Sound off As with all social media, video is a big winner on Stories as well. Stats by Socialinsider show that video has a 6% lower “tap-forward” rate than images. This will add up considerably over time, which is vitally important for the algorithm. One way to increase this retention on video even more is to add text explaining what is being said. Many people watch Instagram Stories with sound off, which could mean the context of your videos is lost. Use the text tools to add some key quotes from each section of your video to encourage people to keep watching. PB

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Industry Events

Out About

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY BALL ATMOSPHERE 28, MILLBANK TOWER, LONDON PB was flying the flag for beauty at the Hair & Beauty Charity Ball in March, where editor Eve Oxberry and managing director Mark Moloney hosted some industry leaders including Elemis’s Oriele Frank; IIAA’s David Alpert, Thalgo’s Marian Harvey; Dean Nathanson of CACI; and Lisa Gerrard of Gerrard International. The charity helps beauty and hair professionals who are going through hard times and is the official charity partner of Professional Beauty and its sister title Hairdressers Journal. More than £9,000 was raised on he night, which began with a champagne reception followed by dinner and entertainment from drag queen Lisa Q Jones before dancing until late.

MEDKI8 MORNING OF SPEEDSKIN-SUPPORT MORTIMER HOUSE, LONDON Cosmeceutical brand Medki8 invited top facialists and beauty press, including PB’s Amanda Pauley, to learn about its new skin programme – 12 Weeks to Wow. Described as “personal training for the skin” by director of research Daniel Isaacs, the programme teams the brand’s CSA (vitamin C, sunscreen, vitamin A) home care range with six in-clinic peel appointments, putting the professional at the heart of the client’s skincare journey. The brand’s peel range – including new additions Rewind, for antiageing; Even, for brightening; and Clarity, for decongestion – use special time-release technology to deliver the acids slowly over time, preventing the skin from becoming overwhelmed.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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38 Industry Events

THE GEL BOTTLE ANIMALIA SPRING COLLECTION LAUNCH SUSHISAMBA, BISHOPSGATE, LONDON The Gel Bottle (TGB) welcomed press, including PB’s content writer Eleanor Vousden, and top nail techs to a drinks reception and dinner at Sushisamba to celebrate its new spring collection, Animalia. It features nine gel colours, each named after an endangered species, and TGB will be donating £5 from the sale of each collection to its 14 chosen animal and environmental charities around the world. Founder Daisy Kalnina hosted the evening alongside representatives from PETA and the National Animal Welfare Trust, who spoke about the importance of protecting animals, particularly in the beauty industry. In keeping with the brands’ vegan and cruelty-free values, guests were served a vegetarian and vegan sushi menu.

LIZ MCKEON BUSINESS OWNERS RETREAT 2020 PRINCESS YAIZA RESORT, LANZAROTE Beauty business coach Liz McKeon flew salon owners out to the Canary Islands for her annual Business Owners Retreat. Combining workshops, coaching, business networking events and meditation, it also included time for guided tours and walking excursions. McKeon said the retreat gave business owners the chance to “immerse in personal and business goals and recharge the batteries”. The schedule included personal and business workshops, mastermind group sessions, morning meditations, business networking and goal-setting sessions.

SOIL ASSOCIATION CERTIFICATION 2020 TRENDS SUMMIT BAMFORD WELLNESS SPA, BROMPTON CROSS, LONDON Beauty press including PB’s Eleanor attended the Soil Association’s panel discussion event in March to hear about the latest in sustainability and organic beauty. The panel was hosted by Georgia Barnes, Soil Association’s senior business development manager, who was joined by Tim Fields, head of sustainability at Daylesford Organic, Louise Riby, director of business development at Bamford, and Rosie Greenaway, editor of Natural Products News. The group discussed the challenges and opportunities facing the industry, highlighting that the certified organic and natural beauty market in the UK is now worth £106.4 million, after a 23% growth in sales in 2019. Guests left with a goodie bag packed with organic goodies from Daylesford and Bamford. PB professionalbeauty.co.uk

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43 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

Sustainability is the buzzword in the industry as both small and large beauty businesses look to cut down their impact on the environment. Many of you are now looking much more closely at the big brandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; green credentials before stocking them in your salon, with a quarter of you (75%) stating that the skincare ranges you use need to be made from sustainably sourced ingredients, and a further 72% wanting them to be encapsulated in recyclable packaging and bottles. More than a third of you (37%) also want your product houses to invest in refillable product systems. Meanwhile, they say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but for many of you, salon copy cats are a real and profit-impacting issue, with 72% of owners having had their business appropriated by competitors in recent years, from branding and interior design, right down to the treatment menu. The shortlist for the Professional Beauty Awards 2020 has landed, see which businesses across the country have been named finalists on page 51.

On the spot Which green credentials are most important when choosing a skincare brand to partner with? 1. Sustainably sourced ingredients 2. Recyclable packaging and bottles 3. Microbead-free 4. Palm oil-free

72%

Primark

beauty

February 2020 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2019?

39 % 44% 17 % BETTER

Take part in our Insider feature

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

have had a competitor salon copy their business

Who is in charge of your salonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s social media accounts? 1. Me (the owner) 2. Head therapist 3. Receptionist/front-of-house 4. Outsourced to a social media company

SAME

63% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2019?

29% 39% 32% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Insider

spa

As the spa and fitness worlds continue to merge into one 360-degree wellness offering, it’s never been more important for operators to stay on top of trends in both of these sectors. A massive 80% of you think holistic training workshops – which take into account your physical, mental and emotional health – will be big this year, and as such, many of you are considering adding them to your spa’s fitness menu. Artificial intelligence (AI) classes – where, for example, a spin cycle session is projected onto the wall in a studio room, removing the need for a trainer to be physically there – are also peaking 10% of spa operators’ interest, with them realising it could be a more cost-effective way to up their fitness offering. Nutrition is also a vital factor in any comprehensive wellness package for clients, which is why you should check out our piece on a new wave of more personalised skincare supplementation launching, on page 97.

On the spot

Alma Society

Business Trends

February 2020 in numbers Which green credentials are most important when choosing a skincare brand to partner with? 1. Sustainably sourced ingredients 2. Recyclable packaging and bottles 3. Palm oil-free 4. Microbead-free

40%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2019?

72% 17% 11% BETTER

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

have an in-house head of wellness

70% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2019?

Which fitness trend do you think will take off this year? 1. Holistic training 2. AI classes 3. Recovery treatments post-workout

30% BETTER

45%

25% WORSE

SAME

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Business Trends

Insider

nails

The nail industry has been booming this month, with both treatment bookings and retail sales up on last year’s figures. Part of this increase has been down to you offering five-star services with top trained techs. For example, just under half of your nail techs (45%) can now perform a faultless express manicure in 15 to 20 minutes, while a fifth (20%) can do it in 10 to 15 minutes, while not compromising on the quality of the end result. Additionally, many of you have been increasing your green credentials to do your bit for the planet, with just under a third (31%) of you now recycling old polish bottles in a super-sustainable way. If you want to make your business more eco-friendly then check out our sustainability feature on page 77, which outlines what the big professional brands are doing to reduce their impact on the environment.

How long does it take your techs on average to do an express manicure? 1. 15–20 minutes 2. 25 minutes plus 3. 10–15 minutes

Matalan

On the spot

February 2020 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2019?

31% 52% 17 %

recycle nail bottles

BETTER

SAME

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK

Live workshops is how the majority of you prefer to learn new nail skills

METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email from February 28 to March 5, regarding business for the month to February 29. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2019?

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WORSE

SAME

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02/12/2019 17:49

Professional Beauty Awards 2020

Best in the

business

The shortlist for the PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY AWARDS 2020 features some of the biggest names in beauty, spa, nails and aesthetics

he scores are in and the finalists of the Professional Beauty Awards 2020 can now be revealed. With new categories and a brand new format, this year’s awards received a record number of entries from spas, salons and individuals across the UK. All entries were scored by a panel of independent industry expert judges and those with the highest scores in each category will go through to the finals. Finalists will now go on to the second round of the judging process, which varies depending on category but involves judging visits, trade tests and interviews. Winners for all categories will be announced in June. The shortlist for the four national salon and spa categories (Large Salon, Boutique Salon, Large Spa and Boutique Spa of the Year) will also be announced on the awards night in June as the finalists will be the

winners and highest scoring finalists of the regional salon and spa categories.

The big night The Professional Beauty Awards will take place during a black-tie dinner on Sunday, June 28, 2020, at central London venue London Hilton on Park Lane. Ahead of the ceremony, there will be an afternoon Salon & Spa Connect event, giving finalists and sponsors a chance to discuss business challenges, share solutions and network ahead of the big night. The evening celebrations will then begin with a drinks reception, followed by a three-course meal with entertainment and an after party until late. Tickets for the awards night cost £149+VAT, or £1,395+VAT for a table of 10, and can be booked online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbawards. Turn the page to check out the outstanding finalist businesses that you can network with on the big night.>

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Professional Beauty Awards 2020

The Professional Beauty Awards 2020 shortlist Employer of the Year Sponsored by Phorest Aqua Sana, Nottinghamshire Chocolate Beauty Spa, Leeds City Retreat Salon & Spa, Newcastle NKD ( ) Waxing, Nottingham

Therapist of the Year Sponsored by Dermalogica Tania Burton, Complexions, Coventry Jaime Godfrey, Studio 8 Beauty, Portsmouth Diana Jenner, Orchids Retreat, Lymington, Hampshire Justyna Rostek, Guinot Earlsfield, London

Pure Perfection, Clitheroe, Lancashire

Katherine Sandford, Katherine Sandford Skin & Beauty, Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire

The Pink Shed, Brantham, Suffolk

Helen Ward, Sirens Beauty Salon, Durham

Spa/Salon Leader of the Year

Nail Salon of the Year

Tracie Giles, Tracie Giles London

Diva Nails, West Lothian, Scotland

Rachael Hyland, Radiant Living, Lancashire

L.G Nails & Beauty, Radcliffe on Trent, Nottinghamshire

Stefannie Larkman, The Little Retreat Day Spa Nottingham

Mooeys, Horsham, Surrey

Amy Lewis, Mooeys, Bedford Kay Pennington, Aqua Sana, Nottinghamshire

Niche Nails & Beauty, Witney, Oxfordshire Tigerlilly Nails, Wimborne, Dorset

Spa/Salon Team of the Year

Midlands and North West Salon of the Year

Sponsored by Crystal Clear

City Retreat, Newcastle

Andrea Simpson â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Facialist, Melbourne, Derbyshire

K:SPA, Whiteley, Hampshire

Hampton Clinic, Solihull

Polished Nail & Beauty Boutique, Marske by Sea, Cleveland

Renaissance Skincare & Beauty, Prescot, Merseyside

Sparx Beauty, Winchester The Secret Spa, Wrexham, Wales The Spa Hotel at Ribby Hall Village, Preston, Lancashire

The Little Retreat Day Spa Nottingham VL Aesthetics, Carlisle

Midlands and North West Spa of the Year Aqua Sana Sherwood Forest, Newark, Nottinghamshire Hoar Cross Hall, Burton on Trent, Staffordshire Rena Spa at The Midland, Manchester The Falls Spa at Lodore Falls Hotel, Keswick The Spa at Armathwaite Hall, Keswick

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South East Spa of the Year North East, Scotland and Northern Ireland Salon of the Year Sponsored by Hidden Beauty All About You - Urban Beauty Retreat, Newcastle City Retreat, Newcastle

Aqua Sana Woburn Forest, Ampthill, Bedfordshire Brandshatch Place Hotel and Spa, Fawkham, Kent Bulgari Spa, London

Professional Beauty Awards 2020

Poppinghole Farm Spa, Robertsbridge, Sussex Sequoia Spa at The Grove, Hertfordshire

Simpsons City Centre Champagne Nail and Beauty Salon, Lincoln

South West and Wales Salon of the Year

The Gin Spa, Glasgow

HI Therapies, Bournemouth The Garden Room, Taunton

North East, Scotland and Northern Ireland Spa of the Year

The Treatment Loft, Exeter

Rockliffe Hall, Darlington

Utopia Beauty Salon, Abingdon

The Waters Edge Retreat, Hayle, Cornwall

Rudding Park, Harrogate Serenity Spa at Seaham Hall, Seaham, County Durham

South West and Wales Spa of the Year

Spa at Blythswood Square, Glasgow

Aqua Sana Longleat Forest, Warminster

The Spa at Galgorm, Ballymena

Buff Urban Day Spa, Taunton Parc Spa, Llanelli

South East Salon of the Year

St Michaels Spa, Falmouth, Cornwall

Amy Gordon Skin Clinic & Beauty Boutique, Colchester, Essex

The Spa at The Randolph, Oxford

Idyllic Beauty and Day Spa, Cranleigh, Surrey K:SPA, Whiteley, Hampshire Mimosa beauty, Chelmsford, Essex The Nail & Body Boutique, Reigate, Surrey

The shortlist for the following four categories will be made up of the winners and highest scoring finalists of the regional salon and spa categories.

Boutique Spa of the Year Sponsored by Elemis

Large Spa of the Year Sponsored by Elemis

Boutique Salon of the Year Large Salon of the Year

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/03/2020 11:32

AWARDS IRELAND CITYWEST 8 NOVEMBER 2020

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STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD b e p a r t o f s o m ethi ng b i g g er in a market saturated with competition on every high street make sure your salon stands out

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57 Ward’s World

Sister ACT

In a working world where strong women are often stereotyped as aggressive, are we all being as supportive of the “sisterhood” as we could be?, asks HELLEN WARD

ecently, I was asked to go on breakfast TV to participate in a debate on women in the workplace. The subject was, “are women meaner than men?”. And not in the financial stakes, but as bosses – are women harder, less kind, more manipulative, bitchier? On items like this you can never be vanilla or try to sit on the fence so they wanted me to fight the women’s corner and say that, from my experience, men were meaner. The trouble is, I’m not sure it’s that black and white. Luckily, the item got pulled because of a breaking news issue, so the media spotlight was turned to something else. I don’t think that anyone could argue the fact that the beauty industry is predominantly made up of women. From therapists to nail techs, female workers outnumber men in the beauty and spa sector. While the vast majority of women in leadership or managerial roles are hugely nurturing and take the mentoring element of their role extremely seriously, some are not. Equally, some of the men I worked with before I had my own business were very empowering whereas some were happy to take credit from the powers that be for ideas and results generated by the younger men and women working in their teams, sometimes shamelessly. My point would have been that such behaviour isn’t necessarily gender specific. It all depends on whether somebody is kind, considerate and views their role of responsibility as an opportunity to praise and motivate younger team members working for them, or whether they are selfish and greedy enough to tread over anybody in order to climb that corporate ladder. Some women can be fantastic bosses, as can some men – and both sexes can be utter bullying pigs in the workplace.

Trying to stereotype it by gender doesn’t help anyone. Hopefully, karma will out and if you’re an unpleasant boss you won’t keep hold of your staff and eventually you’ll get found out. I was thinking the other day how proud I am that I’m still in touch with Steph, who I met on my first day of infant school, Ali C and Ali P (ditto for junior and secondary schools), Les and Mary, my first bosses, and Heath, my bestie who I met through work in 1988. We’ve all been though all the stuff life chucks at you, and they’re all there for me. Women in general are hugely supportive of other women. Sadly, I also know of at least two female executives working at a very high level in our sector who’ve had serious bullying grievances raised against them by younger women working for them (and I can believe it) yet they remain in their jobs. How? So, is there such a thing as the sisterhood? Sometimes yes, other times no. Being a tough cookie in business as a woman can label you a “ball breaker” when in reality it’s simply that you don’t take any crap. That sort of stereotyping is sexism at its worst. My business acumen has nothing to do with my gender and hopefully everything to do with my brain. Some of the worst ego-fuelled back-stabbing I’ve ever experienced has been from women who have gone on to PR their “sisterhood” credentials. What a shame. Perhaps it was good that programme got cancelled after all. PB

Being a tough cookie in business as a woman can label you a ball breaker when in reality it’s simply that you don’t take any crap

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/03/2020 11:33

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Business Tips

ask

the EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

How can I start networking to build my reputation within the industry? Building relationships must be mutually beneficial. Therefore, the best way to network is to leverage your strengths and consider how you can help people. What’s your skill? As a member of the beauty sector, this list can be endless, from providing treatments to sharing your knowledge and time. Just make sure your list makes good business sense. Then, write a list of 10 to 20 people or businesses that inspire you and research them. Check which groups they are part of, the industry events they attend and the trade magazines they appear in. Contact local newspapers, trade press and the brands you use – suppliers are always looking for newsworthy content, so start engaging and make sure you have a decent headshot. Entering awards is another way to raise your profile. Not only do they reinforce your credibility, but they are also a great opportunity to build your network. Building strong relationships is something we as therapists and business owners do extremely well every day. This skill shouldn’t be hidden. So, attend events, forums and industry talks and speak to people. Set yourself a challenge to find out what they do, what’s important to them and what their motivation is, and think of a way you could help them. Start with one or two people per event, and then as you build your confidence you can increase this number. You should have an idea of where your people are present digitally too. Set up a LinkedIn profile to connect with professionals in your field. Follow and interact with groups and forums, publish short videos or

images showcasing the events you attend and share engaging insights on your feed. Sustainable connections won’t happen overnight – it takes time to cultivate meaningful relationships. That’s why it’s vital you’re active and consistent in producing content. Try to regularly reflect on your path and serve your network with what they are interested in. As you begin to find your crowd of people, they will start to introduce you to their crowd and before you know it you will be setting a new path.

Ellie Tidy QFP is franchise manager at Guinot UK where she is overseeing the brand’s new PHD programme of business training for salon owners.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/03/2020 11:34

60 Business Tips

What is the difference between vegan, crueltyfree and organic make-up?

How can I incorporate aromatherapy into my treatments? Aromatherapy is one of the most versatile additions you can make to your treatment menu. Apart from giving sensory gratification, essential oils offer therapeutic benefits to clients – both physically and mentally. The all-round actions of aromatherapy mean it can be incorporated into any salon or spa treatment; essential oils can be used in a variety of ways, from simple diffusion to blending specifically for clients’ needs. Aromatherapy-based massage oils can be used to treat concerns such as poor-quality sleep, stress and anxiety. De-stressing blends can be selected for those suffering with tension; detoxifying for clients who want to clear their body and mind; and energising for those feeling fatigued. If you’re not sure of how aromatherapy will be received by your clients, why not introduce it gradually? So, rather than creating a traditional aromatherapy massage, you could switch up one of your existing treatments with an aromatherapy twist, such as a Swedish body massage with essential oils. Clients will book as it’s a treatment they know but with an exciting new element, so it won’t take them too far out of their comfort zone. A selection of blends could be retailed post-treatment too, helping to increase revenue and customer satisfaction. You could incorporate aromatherapy into your existing treatment range by introducing hydrolats instead of essential oils. These water -based aromatic additions can be spritzed into the air like a natural air freshener, Matt Taylor is the education or onto towelling and bedding manager for professional aromatherapy brand Eve to offer aromatic benefits, Taylor, where he has as well as added into rinse developed strategies for growth water for sponges or mitts and brand perception. for product removal.

There is a lot of confusion around the terms, and with good reason. They’re not as regulated as they should be. Vegan make-up doesn’t contain any animal products, by-products or derivatives. This includes common ingredients found in beauty products such as beeswax, honey, lanolin, carmine, shellac, keratin, squalene and hydrolysed silk. While these ingredients are sourced from living animals and don’t necessarily harm them, they’re still animal-derived ingredients. Many vegan make-up products are also gluten-free, which is a huge perk for people who suffer from celiac disease and other inflammatory skin conditions. When a product is labelled as vegan, this describes its ingredients not its manufacturing process. If a brand doesn’t test on animals, that means it’s cruelty-free. At Inika Organic, we don’t use any ingredients sourced from animals or test our products on animals, so we’re both vegan and cruelty-free. Like vegan make-up, vegetarian cosmetics avoid all ingredients that were once part of an animal, but they might contain ingredients that were made by an animal, including beeswax, honey or egg whites. Organic products are free from artificial fertilisers and synthetic chemicals, and vegan products don’t always have organic ingredients lists.

Jenny Murray is the business development manager at Inika Organics and has 20 years of experience in the beauty industry.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Tips

How do I approach a post-pregnancy intimate wax?

What research do I need to undertake to determine my ideal client and better reach them? When you start thinking about your ideal client you need to delve deeper than just the demographics and the basic information. You need to really get to know them. He or she could be you 10 years ago, one year ago or now. It may be someone you have previously worked with, a family member or a person you have made up called Mandy. Whoever they are, you need to know every single detail; their core values, pain points, age, what they are looking for and how much they want to spend. The list is endless, but once you know all of this you will have your niche. Analytics are great to look at but unless you are constantly getting dream enquiries it’s likely that those people visiting your website and engaging with you on social media aren’t your ideal clients. Instead, take a look at your analytics to discover who you are attracting and figure out why. Sending out a survey to your existing clients can also be very revealing. If your subscribers aren’t ever booking in with you or buying from you, you’re spending time sending out emails that won’t see a return, so don’t be afraid to let them go so you can focus on the ones who are invested in you. It’s far better to have a smaller audience of people who are engaged than a large audience who won’t do Bonnie Platts is a director at anything but sit in your database. AB Beauty Consultancy. She Once you know your ideal and her business partner Anna Nickless previously ran client, you will be in a much better four salons under the Lavender & position to sell your services and Stone brand. see your business flourish.

The most important factor is that your client is comfortable and the chosen treatment is suitable. In some cases it may be better for her to wait a little longer before a wax. It’s important to listen to her concerns and let her know that it’s OK if she decides to wait. As for when she can have her first intimate waxing post-pregnancy, this depends on the type of birth. If the client had a natural birth, it is generally safe to have the first intimate wax after eight weeks. This includes all types of intimate waxing, from a classic bikini to a Hollywood. If your client had a C-section, it is also possible to have an intimate wax eight weeks after giving birth but extra care is needed when working near the area of the scar. Because hair doesn’t grow on scars, this area doesn’t need to be touched, so do not put any wax there. In all cases, it is very important to maintain a continual dialogue with the client, checking in to see how she is feeling and if there is any unusual discomfort. If clients have had a tear or episiotomy during childbirth, it is advised that they wait six months before having a full Hollywood wax. The scar needs to be fully healed and not be causing her any issues. However, she can have a bikini or extended bikini wax in the meantime.

Marta Zaczkowska is the founder of Waxing Specialist, a London-based salon that specialises in intimate waxing services.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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64 Business Tips

How can I treat the body with peels?

How does laser work for semi-permanent make-up removal? The materials used in semi-permanent make-up and micropigmentation are becoming more resistant in their combinations of pigment. Some of these materials are inorganic and organic combinations, which are harder to remove. There is a growing demand in the industry for quick and safe removal when things go wrong or a patient decides they no longer want this look. For the most effective removal or correction, we must use the right laser source to eliminate ink particles in the epidermis and the deeper layers of the dermis. We need to use a combination of medical-class wavelengths to have full removal of every variety of ink. I combine three wavelengths to meet each patientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs: QS 1064nm, 532nm, and 694nm. Many clinicians complain of colour change in pigment once a laser has been used. This is due to oxidation of the material in the upper epidermis, which we expect. Once this happens we then re-treat the area with one of the three wavelengths to fade the oxidised ink. The other benefits of this technique include reduction of scarring in the area and stimulation of tissue remodelling so the customer has a healthy skin surface for new application of micropigmentation in just three months post-removal. Results are quick, can be applied to all areas of the body and the treatment takes five to 15 minutes. Patients feel very little pain as cryo cooling is used prior to and during the laser removal. The most important factor is having a class 4 medical laser device and the correct training to support the safe Sarah McNulty is national educator at Advanced removal and best clinical Esthetics Solutions, where she outcome. We suggest a minimum specialises in training clients of NVQ Level 3 or ITEC 3/4 and in laser treatments. Level 4 core of knowledge.

Peeling on the body uses the same protocol as facial peels. However, only a small area on the body can be treated at one time. This means not applying a peel to any area larger than four hand palms â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this is equal to the full face, neck, decolletage, upper back or lower back. We also do not recommend layering body peels, as we want to strive for the best results for our clients and not increase the chance of compromising their skin. For sun-damaged areas like the hands, glycolic, mandelic and pyruvic acid help to trigger collagen production, smoothing and plumping the skin texture. This can be great for the hands, as they are prone to sun damage due to the thinness of the skin. For the decolletage, lactic and glycolic acid can help minimise melanin production, fade pigmentation and prevent the formation of further pigmentation. This makes it perfect for areas with age spots or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Some clients find they are extremely prone to blemishes on the back. Our Clarity peel uses 40% lactic and 10% glycolic acid to help to unblock pores, minimise the formation of blemishes and promote a clearer complexion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; perfect for congested and blemishprone skin types. Sunscreen is exceptionally important post-peel as skin is more susceptible to UV radiation. Therefore, it is also essential for the body to help speed up the effects of peeling, and to allow the client to reach their skin goals quicker.

Daniel Isaacs is director of research at Medik8 and has developed more than 80 unique formulations in his career.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

059-064 PBAPR20 Ask the Experts.indd 64

11/03/2020 11:36

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69 Interview

Talking to...

DIJA Ayodele The founder of Black Skin Directory and owner of West Room Aesthetics tells Amanda Pauley why she has opened a clinic that specialises in beauty treatments for people of colour

he issue of whether the beauty industry is failing women of colour is an important topic, with some clients in the UK still not feeling catered for. This is why Dija Ayodele, a well-known aesthetician and founder of educational platform Black Skin Directory, is opening West Room Aesthetics in London, a space that specialises in products and treatments for darker skin tones. The 430sq ft clinic, officially opening in West Kilburn this month following its soft launch in February, will offer advanced treatments for common skin issues faced by people of colour, such as hyperpigmentation and keloid scarring, using chemical peels, microneedling, microcurrent, microdermabrasion and mesotherapy. “99% of my clients are people of colour and many of them don’t feel like beauty businesses or brands are

talking to them. They pass a clinic on the high street and because there’s no imagery showing different ethnicities or an advertisement clearly stating ‘we treat all skin tones’ they tend to assume it’s not a place for them; that their needs won’t be met,” explains Ayodele. “There needed to be a specialised service to satisfy that nuance, and that’s what I’m trying to do. Clients don’t need to feel dubious entering my space because everything has been created in their image.” All cosmeceutical brands stocked in West Room Aesthetics, such as Cyspera and Neostrata, have been chosen because they have clinical trials and marketing imagery with people of colour. >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Interview

The move was also a result of Ayodele’s client base growing at a rapid rate, with more than 200 customers now on her books, including celebrities. “I had been renting a space in Anamaya clinic in Kensington, London, for the past three years and it got to the point where I couldn’t satisfy client demand,” she explains. “The clinic had four rooms available for rental but they were always booked up, so I could only offer appointments one day per week. It was also impossible to do proper retail education as it wasn’t my space to do what I wanted with.”

When asked about the ongoing debate of whether beauty therapists should be doing injectables, Ayodele says “it’s a messy situation”, and believes the Government should introduce legislation because of the mishaps that are happening in this country. “But until that happens, I think the medical profession needs to introduce some interim rules because they’ve only focused on consumer education, and some of that has not got through to the most vulnerable people – the ones who go off and have these treatments with unqualified people,” she explains. “As much as doctors want to put all beauty therapists and aestheticians in the same boat and tar us with the same brush, there are rogue doctors out there too providing these prescriptions. How are beauty therapists getting hold of botox if a doctor is not writing the prescription for them? There’s been a lot of talk in the industry about what to do but no action, and it’s when we do nothing that the general public suffers.”

99% of my clients are people of colour and many of them don’t feel like beauty businesses or brands are talking to them

Rise to the top The new clinic has been privately funded by Ayodele and features one clinic room, one treatment room and a retail area. It will be open five days a week and Ayodele has hired a Level 4 junior aesthetician too, with hopes of also bringing a medic in-house by the end of the year to offer injectables. “It would be a fantastic addition to our services, especially for my mature clients whom I sometimes refer to reputable specialists in that area,” says Ayodele. “I just haven’t met anybody yet who fits the bill or who has the flexibility to come in twice a month.”

Going the extra mile The clinic will also act as an event space, playing host to monthly Skin+ sessions – where different experts come in and share information, ranging from refreshing your make-up for summer to sessions on managing money or boosting your wellness. “We will cover everything that can have a direct or indirect impact on skin. Clients talk >

Clockwise from top: Reception area at West Room Aesthetics; a treatment room at the clinic; Ayodele talking at an event

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to you in the treatment room, they divulge private stuff like the fact they’re going through a divorce, and I think having experts talk about money or stress management is practical information that could really benefit them,” explains Ayodele. However, it hasn’t all been plain sailing getting the clinic up and running. “Some investment I thought I had secured to open the space didn’t materialise at the last minute, so I had to borrow money from my brother temporarily, and then work out what the priorities were – what did I need to do to open the doors during this soft transition phase so I could still see my clients,” explains Ayodele. “For example, our branding still hasn’t been sorted [when PB went to press]. It’s

great to have nice branding but it wasn’t essential to the practical running of the business, so that was pushed back so I could get the essentials, like products, in.” Aside from the admin pressures of dealing with HMRC and accountants, Ayodele was also juggling personal issues during this time of business upheaval. “The day after I soft opened the clinic my daughter had a massive operation, which was originally meant to take place in January but got pushed back,” she says.

Managing expectations

KEY DATES 2009 Ayodele studies for her beauty therapy NVQ at London College of Beauty Therapy 2017 Rents a room offering aesthetic treatments in Kensington-based clinic Anamaya 2018 Launches the Black Skin Directory platform 2019 Joins the British Beauty Council as an advisory board member 2020 Opens her first standalone clinic, West Room Aesthetics in London

Clockwise from top: Seating area in West Room Aesthetics; Ayodele performing a treatment; interior design at West Room Aesthetics

“During this time, I was pretty much living at Great Ormond Street Hospital with her and coming into work from there. Plus, I had the pressures of other people, some I didn’t even know, telling me how they envision the clinic to be. It was hard juggling family pressures and the stress of other people’s high expectations for you. I just made sure I had a strong support network around me during that time.” As well as the clinic launch, Ayodele also has some exciting projects lined-up this year to do with her other business Black Skin Directory – an online platform which connects people of colour with clinics that specialise in darker skin tones. “I’m looking to launch a one-day event all about treating black skin and I’m also hoping to create a beauty box specifically curated for women of colour,” she says. “I’m looking to do this independently because I want hard-hitting, results-driven cosmeceuticals in the box, like Neostrata and Exuviance, rather than the generic high-street brands that are usually included in these boxes.” PB

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Sustainability

Leaders OF THE pack Sustainability is a major buzzword in the beauty industry, but are we doing enough to reduce our packaging waste? Kieran Read finds out what steps the professional brands are taking to reduce, reuse and recycle

ith consumer interest in sustainable practices continuing to grow, salons and spas are increasingly looking to their suppliers for support, demanding both transparency in ingredient sourcing and reductions in packaging waste. According to the Soil Association’s 2020 beauty report, 69% of consumers are now looking for beauty products with recyclable packaging, yet making that change is not as straightforward as it may seem. “The beauty industry is one of the worst culprits when it comes to plastic pollution,” comments IIAA’s director of education, Tracy Tamaris. “It has been estimated that 120 billion units of non-recyclable packaging are produced every year by the global cosmetics industry and as much as 70% of the plastic waste it generates isn’t recycled. Instead, it ends up in landfill.” Unlike many other fields, beauty brands usually create their own materials for products and packaging, which often requires the mixing of plastics. As they cannot be properly broken down, the use of these complex, mixed materials drastically narrows the possibility of most beauty packaging being recycled. On top of this, the industry also favours the creation

of virgin plastics, material made from scratch, over post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic, material that is already in circulation, meaning products and packaging are often both nonrecycled and non-recyclable.

Striking a balance The problem of sustainability clearly runs far deeper than just throwing empties in the correct bin, and it’s also not the easiest to tackle. “It can be a challenge for skincare brands,” says Medik8’s director of research, Daniel Isaacs. “In cosmetics, there will always be a demand for packaging that is both aesthetically and environmentally pleasing, as it denotes a newness to the cosmetic product.” Many professional brands are leading the way when it comes to making changes that don’t sacrifice on quality. We take a look at the recent surge of innovation in environmentally friendly beauty packaging, from refill initiatives to eco-charity partnerships, showing that sustainable practice is far from a passing trend. Instead, it is the beginning of a new, necessary status quo for the industry. >

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Sustainability

78 IIAA IIAA’s new recycling scheme for Environ – the skincare brand it distributes – aims to tackle the issue of mixed materials that cause rejection later along the process. “My passion for marine photography and my expeditions to the Arctic have enabled me to see first-hand the devastating impact of plastic pollution in our oceans,” comments IIAA managing director David Alpert on the origins of this initiative. IIAA plans to distribute recycling bins to salons that stock Environ, encouraging them to send back its products free of charge to be repurposed into secondary products by a specialist firm, with £1 given back per empty unit. “I’ve been working with a parliamentary group to raise awareness of the huge amount of waste the beauty industry produces and the need to implement

legislation to reduce it,” Alpert continues. “These changes take time – in the interim, we must all do our bit to ensure a greener future for generations to come.” IIIA’s own brand Advanced Nutrition Programme (ANP) is also making strides in the field of sustainability. Instead of the plastic pots and pouches used three years ago, the brand now works with recycled cardboard from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)approved mills with non-toxic vegetable ink. Point-of-sale displays are now made from recycled acrylic and eco-friendly filler and padding, and paper tape is used to prevent 195km of plastic tape reaching landfill each year. ANP plans to have its packaging and point of sale material completely carbon neutral in the near future.

Caudalie In 2018, skincare brand Caudalie opened an eco-designed research space focused on green skincare found in the centre of the Cosmetic Valley, called the Research and Natural Formulation laboratory. A year later, the brand reduced its excess waste by making its plastic packaging lighter, saving more than 13 tonnes of plastic and 33 tonnes of paper. Tackling the issue of mixed plastics, Caudalie has partnered with Terracycle so that difficult-to-recycle pumps can be dropped off in store and taken to be recycled in betterequipped facilities. In regards to the future, the brand intends to have all formulas 95–100% natural (except for sun care and fragrances) by 2021 and make all of its packaging, excluding pumps and caps, entirely recyclable by 2022. > professionalbeauty.co.uk

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80 Medik8 Medik8â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recent sustainability initiatives began with the ban of pure palm oil from its products in 2017, followed by the removal of three tonnes of plastic from its packaging in 2018. Instead, the brand prints on FSC-certified recycled and recyclable materials using soya ink. Since 2019, Medik8 has aspired to make its entire range of professional treatments 100% recyclable, including the bottles, caps and pumps they come in. All products are vegan friendly and every professional product in a PET bottle is made from 100% PCR material, such as former drink bottles sourced primarily from the UK to minimise carbon footprint. Additionally, these PCR bottles are designed more ergonomically, meaning an estimated 11% less product is wasted in the bottle.

Medik8 has also revealed its Ocean Plastic Endeavour, under which all future professional packaging will be made from sea and river-sourced plastic waste, as well as reassessing its â&#x20AC;&#x153;ingredient deckâ&#x20AC;? for better knowledge on where its ingredients originate from and their environmental impact, and increasing the amount of recycled glass it uses.

SBC Since its formation, SBC has focused on keeping packaging as minimal as possible, using 10% post-consumer resin (PCR) packaging that is largely recyclable. These aspirations have remained significant to the brand, which has plans of being 100% recyclable by 2025. The company is also reducing its distribution of small, one-use plastics by offering larger sizes to clients and salons, including up to five litres of its Hydra-Collagen Moisturising Gel.

Louella Belle Louella Belle has put a spin on the tried-and-tested recycling scheme by accepting used product bottles from any brand, not just its own. Launched in January this year, the RecyLeBelle scheme is one of the few to accept gel, nail polish and cuticle oil bottles, as well as plastics with mixed ingredients. All materials will be collected by a recycling company and sorted to ensure they are reused in the best way. Techs who send off the minimum of four bottles in the pre-paid, eco-friendly Louella Belle envelope will get a 15% discount on their next order. >

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Sustainability

82 Outback Organics Outback Organics is currently running a handful of sustainability-centred offers, including a £2.60 saving when refilling Opal Peelable wax. It has created 10kg and 20kg boxes of Gold and Opal wax to encourage a reduction of single-use bags, meaning up to £46.80 in savings. “We are very happy with the direction the production and manufacturing of our products is moving in,” says director Steven Wright. “This is slightly trickier with our skincare products as they are bottled off-site, but we are certainly thinking of ways of that can help towards less waste. Only recently, we launched a one litre sized Bush Balm for professional use to reduce the number of smaller bottles being purchased regularly.” For Outback Organics, small changes have big impacts, for instance swapping to biodegradable wet wipes; offering eco-friendly biodegradable travel bags; stocking cotton buds with paper stems only; and using paper tape and biodegradable filler for packaging. It also openly encourages the upcycling of its packaging, designing products with further use in mind – suggesting that candle pots can be brush holders, Wonder Balm jars can be jewellery holders and massage oils can be flower vases.

Salon System Salon System has recently made significant changes to its range of products, including updating its Naturalash lash packs to recyclable polyethylene terephthalate (PET) trays and ensuring cartons are made of cardboard. Just Wax products are also now made from PET recyclable plastic. For its Marvelash range, Salon System has reduced the size of its pack kits and has a recyclable logo appearing on all of these packaging changes.

Nouveau Lashes Working with a local packaging innovations company in West Yorkshire, Nouveau Lashes changed its retail cartons in August 2019 from Mirri board, a metallised polyester substance containing plastic elements, to a virgin fibre board that is fully recyclable and has FSC certification. Heading into 2020, Nouveau Lashes has applied this process to its professional products by designing 23 new cartons, with plans to have all of its products changed to virgin fibre board by the end of the year. Nouveau Lashes’ suppliers also plant three fast-growing spruce trees for every tree cut down, as well as planting extras that are used to help people, wildlife and the environment to thrive. >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Sustainability

84 BC Softwear The towel, robe and slippers brand has launched the Pledge to the Cleaner Seas Project, promising to remove single-use plastics from a variety of its products. Changes made include using simple string ties for its flip-flops and changing bags to biodegradable cornstarch. So far, this effort has reduced 50 tonnes of landfill annually. BC Softwear has also reduced water consumption by 60% by changing its dyeing and rinsing process. Due to the factory’s solar power plant and reduced use of natural gas, the brand has saved more than one million normal and replanted trees in a 28 million-sqm area. SmartSoft, the brand’s range of sustainable towelling solutions, is designed for hotels with onsite laundry looking to reduce their carbon footprint. A range of products offer up to 70% guaranteed energy savings in laundry energy usage; 65% reduction in oil absorption; and 50% reduction in drying times, meaning better efficiency in staff resources and costs, all of which has

been verified by The Laundry and Technology Centre. Founder and managing director Barbara Cooke comments: “We have gone out of our way to ensure that the SmartSoft collection still offers the softness that is inherent in all our existing ranges, providing a vital combination of both sustainability and luxury.”

Nimue Gaia With bamboo as its principle ingredient – a highly sustainable, 100% biodegradable crop – Gaia is inherently conscious of its environmental impact, from the energy-reducing, artisan methods of creating its products, to using gloves sourced from plant-material and compostable wooden spoons for decanting. Primarily composed of glass and bamboo, Gaia’s packaging is 100% recyclable, as are its plastic amenities, although an effort to reduce sample sizes and the amount of unnecessary secondary packaging and wrapping is underway too. Gaia is also encouraging spa partners to adopt sustainability initiatives, offering discounted product refills on returned jars and bottles that are replenished from larger, more cost-effective professional sizes. Even its central ethos of “buy less but better” is something that encourages clients to practice a minimal and sustainable approach.

Skincare brand Nimue offers refills on homecare products so that customers need only buy one full product once, as well as using oxo-biodegradable plastics in its plastic bags. These are designed to break down quickly after the item has reached expiry, much like a leaf. >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Aqua Natural Sugaring brand Aqua Natural is launching a “Refill, Reduce, Reuse” service. Free of charge, clients are encouraged to return empty pots of Aqua Natural sugar paste to be washed, sterilised and eventually reused, a process that is safe and simple due to the product being 100% natural and water-soluble. Aqua Natural’s co-founder Rosie Khandwala commented: “While we have always ensured that we used recyclable plastic for our jars, we felt we could take it a step further. We have continued to use plastic because we wanted a jar that was safe to microwave, for ease and speed for therapists. It is now about how we use plastic in an eco-friendlier way, not just recycling.” For each six jars returned (the required minimum), salons will receive a 15% discount on their next Aqua Natural order.

Easydry Easydry uses eco-friendly, compostable bags to package its products and, with all boxes and disposable towels sourced from sustainably managed forests, the Easydry process is FSC certified. It also ships products on specially designed recycled cardboard pallets instead of on wood or plastic.

Voya Voya prides itself on paying close attention to sustainability, starting with its assembly of ingredients. It hand-harvests its seaweed so as not to damage the delicate marine ecosystem in an effort to preserve Ireland’s reefs by allowing juvenile algae to flourish and grow. Elsewhere, other ingredients are grown without harmful pesticides and fertilisers. All packaging is recycled, recyclable or biodegradable: boards made from a blend of FSC-certified pulps using Voya’s own harvested seaweed; packaging chips made from 100% biodegradable corn starch; product boxes that are compostable; and water-soluble ink made of vegetable dye. For 2020, Voya will make its hotel and spa amenities refillable and its Christmas range will be 100% waste free, using reusable items instead of cardboard. As a member of Repak and World Land Trust, Voya is also making an effort to reduce its carbon footprint. From 2013 to 2017, almost 485 tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions associated with Voya had been offset into the protection and restoration of threatened tropical forests and other biologically important habitats. >

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88 Aromatherapy Associates Having recycled 9.4 tonnes of paper, plastic and cardboard, saved 108 trees via the use of recycled paper and generated 11 mega-watt hours of electricity from non-recyclable waste incineration, Aromatherapy Associates (AA) has already contributed significantly to sustainability. “We source 100% natural ingredients with traceability right back to the farmer and the original source of the essential oil,” says chief executive Anna Teal. “We’re also constantly striving to minimise our carbon footprint, and one key step is to predominantly manufacture in the UK.” The brand uses 40% FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) board across all retail packaging, and its cartons and glass contain up to 40% post-consumer recycled material. AA is also a member of Positive Luxury, a collective that supports like-minded, responsible brands that strive to improve sustainability. Moving forward, the brand is investigating ways to reduce or remove virgin plastic from its packaging and to increase the amount of post-consumer recycled material in its high-density polyethylene (HDPE) recyclable tubes and bottles. Another aspiration is

achieving 100% certified sustainable palm oil in its products, meaning zero net deforestation. “We will continue to drive this message and make sustainability and transparency an industry standard,” Teal adds.

Comfort Zone Currently, 59% of Comfort Zone’s primary, secondary and tertiary packaging is made from recycled materials; 44% of its plastic packaging is either bio-based or recycled; and 86.5% of its paper and cardboard packaging is made from recycled materials. Addressing sustainability issues that arise with production, the brand uses a carbon-neutral manufacturing facility that uses CO2-equivalent emissions mitigation to reduce pollution significantly. Comfort Zone also supports non-profit organisation EthioTrees, which regenerates soil and forests and helps local farming communities gain access to drinking water in Ethiopia.

Sea Magik Skincare brand Sea Magik has made a number of changes to its sustainability practices, recently replacing plastic with glass and aluminium; moving to carbon-neutral bio plastic made from sugarcane for any required plastic products; reducing plastic content in its salt pouches by 25% and moving to single-use plastic over mixed; replacing plastic lids with caps made from recycled wood; and advertising responsible recycling practices with advice on the packaging. PB

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Sustainability

RECYCLING DECODED Do you know what these common recycling icons mean for your packaging?

Mobius Loop This means the item is capable of being recycled, but not that it has been recycled, or will be accepted in all recycling collection systems. Sometimes this is accompanied by a percentage figure that indicates it’s made from X% recycled material.

Plastic Resin Codes

Glass

Forest Stewardship Council

This identifies the type of plastic used. The number in the middle (which ranges from one to seven) acts as a resin identification code alongside the plastic’s acronym (e.g. PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate).

This symbol encourages you to recycle glass containers in a bottle bank (remember to separate different coloured glass). Alternatively, use your glass household recycling collection service if your local council has one.

Check Locally

Recyclable Steel

Aluminium

The label is applied to products that are recycled by less than 20% of local authorities in the UK.

This symbol appears on packaging that is collected by 20%–75% of local authorities in the UK.

This means the item is made of steel and can be recycled by all local authorities.

The aluminium icon means the object is made from recyclable aluminium.

Compostable

The Green Dot

Waste Electricals

Widely Recycled

The seedling icon means the item can be composted. However, don’t mix this with recyclable items as it contaminates the recycling process.

This symbol does not necessarily mean the item is recyclable. However, it means the producer has made a financial contribution to the recycling of packaging in Europe.

Some electrical items cannot be disposed of in normal waste. Check with your local authority for kerbside collection, or recycle them at a recycling centre or at larger retailers.

This icon means the item is collected by 75% or more of local authorities across the UK. Variations of the symbol include instructions such as rinsing the item first, or keeping the lid of the product on.

Not Yet Recyclable

The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) logo shows that wood and other forest-based items are sourced from wellmanaged forests and/or recycled and controlled sources and comply with the rules of the FSC.

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Trend Watch

WORKPLACE

WELLNESS 2.0 With London experiencing a rise in wellness-focused multifunctional co-working spaces, Amanda Pauley explores the importance of easy access to beauty and fitness therapies in the workplace

ver the past year, there’s been a dramatic change in the office environment for some people working in London, as new multifunctional co-working spaces open with a strong focus on workplace wellbeing. These forward-thinking offices in the big city are putting employees’ mental and physical wellbeing at the heart of their ethos, giving them access to one-on-one or group sessions with specialised beauty and wellness practitioners in the workplace. It’s not surprising that this change has occurred when 12.8 million working days were lost last year in Great Britain due to work-related stress, depression or anxiety, according to the Health and Safety Executive. “Businesses have become aware of the important link between employee mental and physical wellness and staff productivity, morale and retention,” says Kevin Wilson, chief executive and founder of London-based mobile beauty agency Freedom Wellness Therapy. “As we lead increasingly busy lives, employees are spending more of their time at work, which is why there is a need for employers to offer these services.” And the salon and spa industry has never been in a better position to support this movement, as more employers wise

up to the importance of beauty and fitness therapy to achieving wellness at work. “We’re seeing companies actively integrate fitness and emotional wellness into their employee benefits schedule. Alternative therapies such as acupuncture and reiki are being demanded alongside more traditional psychotherapy in order to increase workplace wellbeing,” explains Hannah Lanel, founder of co-working space The Fore in London. So, how can the beauty industry help? The experts advise reaching out to corporate workplaces to offer these wellness services to them on a regular basis, from hosting group yoga or meditation sessions once per month, to a corporate day of massage or nail treatments every quarter. Not only will it boost your salon’s profile with people in the area who may never have heard of you, but it’s a more cost-effective way for a business owner to bring wellness into the workplace rather than trying to hire someone in-house and kit out the space with the right equipment. To inspire you, here are four of the hottest multifunctional co-working spaces in London that have put wellness at the heart of what they do.

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The Fore, King’s Cross This multi-functional space opened in King’s Cross, London, last year with a mission to deliver a co-working space that offers access to the “four core elements of human health – physical, emotional, social and intellectual wellbeing”. The 5,500sq ft site includes a shared work space; café and juice bar featuring a menu tailored to support the body pre- and post-workout; a wellness treatment room offering alternative therapies such as sports-enhancing acupuncture, postural massage and energy healing; two fitness studios; and an exclusive group class concept with sessions tailored to build strength, speed, endurance or mobility. The aim is to boost busy workers’ everyday wellness, with access to a 360-degree solution that treats mind and body.

Trend Watch

The Wing, Fitzrovia New York’s cult women’s-only co-working and community space arrived in London Fitzrovia last year, promising to help the economic advancement and overall wellbeing of women everywhere by “gathering them together to work, connect and thrive”. Set in a five-story townhouse with a millennial interior, the private members’ club features a fitness room equipped with Peloton bikes, a beauty salon stocked with only women-owned brands, a tea parlour, café and bar, library and a chequerboard-themed rooftop terrace to chill on. There are also networking programmes to help members thrive in their careers. These include support groups for small business owners, financial planning workshops, group yoga, and introductions to coding and bike maintenance.

Fora, across London With 10 locations across London already, and an eleventh opening in Shoreditch in 2021, Fora is a big disruptor in the shared office market. The flexible workspace is designed to help make people more productive by delivering an environment that ensures both their physical and mental wellbeing, something that is lacking in our time-poor society. Members have access to healthy food options, group yoga sessions, curated events hosted by residents so they can knowledge share, and a roster of fitness and meditation classes to ease stress and clear the mind. Bespoke wellness packages can even be created for companies based in the space, making it a much more personalised experience for employees.

Freedom Wellness Therapy, across London Mobile wellbeing company Freedom Wellness Therapy is the alternative method to achieving wellness in the workplace – providing existing offices and co-working spaces with access to its one-on-one or group wellness treatments with accredited and specialist practitioners. The aim of the service is to help employers improve the mental and physical wellbeing of their office workers who may be feeling stressed, anxious or burned out, offering beauty and fitness services including massage, yoga, Pilates and personal training. All beauty and fitness professionals who work for the company have the opportunity to upskill in other areas of wellness to broaden their offering. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Nutrition

WHAT SUPP? The supplement market is becoming increasingly bespoke, with consumers demanding products tailored to their skincare needs. Melanie Macleod investigates the latest launches and the concerns they address

one are the days of mindlessly popping a generic “hair, skin and nails” supplement into your shopping basket and hoping for the best. Consumers are now more switched on than ever when it comes to supplements; rather than a one-size-fits-all approach, they’re looking for their nutritional products to address specific skin concerns. “The rise of the ‘skintellectual’ consumer heightened popularity for technical, topical skincare during the 2010s and this thirst has now extended to supplements,” says Lorraine Perretta, head of nutrition at Advanced Nutrition Programme. Consumers are particularly looking for supplements that address the impacts of pollution and ageing on the skin, according to supplement brand Thalgo. In the same way you tailor facial treatments to each individual client, supplements should also be a bespoke recommendation. “Supplements should be included as an integral part of a tailormade skincare regime for your client, and not tagged on as an afterthought,” says Perretta. “Consultations are key. Beauty professionals are best placed to analyse their clients’ skin and recommend the appropriate beauty supplement product. It’s essential to make sure that the supplement brand you stock offers high-quality training so that your therapists can talk confidently about the benefits.” Not only do supplements need to be selected to complement the treatment you’re offering, they also need to fit in with your clients’ lifestyle choices – for example, you might look to stock vegan supplements, or ones housed in

eco-packaging. “The focus on ‘clean label’ for supplements, with an eye on sustainability and clean ingredients, will become increasingly important for consumers,” says Perretta. “A shift towards ‘clean supplement’ is already happening, similar to ‘clean beauty’,” agrees Secil Fuller, brand and innovation manager for collagen supplement Proto-col. “The discerning consumer wants to know how ethical and sustainable their product is.” Vincent Note, owner of nutritional drink brand Collagen Lift Paris, also tips this as a key trend, adding, “Consumers are looking for cleaner products, free from gluten, dairy, sugar, GMOs, phthalates and parabens.” Once you’ve analysed the supplement best suited to your client base, it’s important to work it seamlessly into your offering. “We recommend integrating supplements into facials and body treatments,” says Thalgo’s marketing manager Judith Emslie. “Many of our treatments include a shot at the beginning or end of a treatment. This not only enhances the results and the experience for the customer but gives the beauty professional a perfect retail opportunity and also increases loyalty. If the customer is happy, they are more likely to come back.” We take a closer look at four of the latest launches in bespoke supplements. >

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Nutrition

98 BEST FOR:

WOUND HEALING Proto-col Collagen Cordial Dark Berry

BEST FOR:

SKIN EXPOSED TO POLLUTION Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Moisture Lock These soft gel capsules combine hyaluronic acid and ceramides to create supplements that lock in moisture for a plump, smooth complexion. Pollution can negatively impact ceramide levels and as a result the moisture barrier can become compromised, leading to thinning skin, dryness and roughness. The ceramides included in this formulation help to seal in moisture at the epidermal layer of the skin and support its natural barrier. Recommend to: clients booking in for hydrating, anti-pollution facials. Trade £35 for 60 capsules. RRP: £70 020 8450 2020 (IIAA) iiaa.eu

Collagen is best-known for aiding skin hydration and elasticity but is also great for improving wound healing – the founder James Greenwell actually created the brand following a sports injury after he found collagen was instrumental to his recovery. This dilutable collagen cordial with natural berry flavouring is great for clients who struggle to swallow tablets, creating an easy way to add supplements into their routine. Recommend to: clients who are new to supplements. Trade: £29.97 for 30-day supply. RRP: £59.95 0333 000 7788 proto-col.com

BEST FOR:

CELLULITE, BREAKOUTS OR PIGMENTATION Skinade Targeted Solutions

BEST FOR:

SUN-DAMAGED SKIN Collagen Lift Paris Luminous Gold On a surface level, this was formulated to deliver a luminous, glowing complexion by preventing dark spots and reducing pigmentation. On a deeper level, golden fern extract provides photoprotection against the free-radical damage from UVA and UVB light. The ingredients have been proven to increase skin elasticity and moisture. Recommend to: sun-loving clients. Trade: e50 for 28-day supply. RRP: e145 +33 664 818 214 fr.collagenliftparis.com

Skinade has responded to the demand for supplements that addressed specific concerns with Targeted Solutions, three drinkable supplements. The Cellulite blend helps detoxify the skin from the inside while improving its structure thanks to collagen peptides, MSM, milk thistle extract and bromelain; Clear is designed to combat causes of breakouts, from excess oil to inflammation, with a two-step capsule and pineapple-flavoured drinkable solution containing nutrients including magnesium, vitamin C and omega 3; and Derma Defense offers a boost of vitamins A and D to protect against pigmentation and help build the skin’s tolerance to topical retinol. Recommend to: clients on body-shaping or skin clearing treatment programmes. Trade price on application. RRPs: from £50– £115.50 for 30-day supply 08451 300205 skinade.com

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Promotional Feature

100

salon

REFURB

Are you thinking of having a salon makeover? The NHBF’s Tori Priestley explains the secret to successful salon design and how to achieve that elusive “wow” factor that will keep your clients coming back for more

f you’re looking to embark on a salon redesign, involve your employees in the makeover and do lots of research before starting any work, advises Tori Priestley, director of marketing at the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). “Settle on a budget, and don’t be tempted to overspend,”. “You can then decide on the overall look and feel you want to achieve – whether that’s retro, rustic, luxury, minimalist or individual and quirky.” Find out more about how to manage your cash flow at nhbf.co.uk/cash-flow

Be consistent “Make sure you create a consistent look, feel and colour scheme that will always be associated with your brand – both in the salon and across your website and social media,” advises Priestley. “You should also have a memorable logo and distinctive typeface that clients will instantly associate with your brand.”

Reception area Don’t ignore your reception area when planning a revamp as this is one of the most important areas in your salon, creating that crucial first impression as soon as your clients walk through the door. “The good news is that you won’t need to spend a lot of money to make a big difference,” says Priestley. “Fresh flowers and an attractive bowl of sweets are simple add-ons that make a big difference. Think about the type of ‘mood lighting’ you want to have in your reception area, but remember to be practical

too – your receptionists will need enough light to work, and make sure there is plenty of hidden storage space to avoid clutter.” Discover the importance of your front-of-house team at nhbf.co.uk/client-reception

Stay legal “Remember that any electrical work you have carried out as part of your refurb must be done by a fully qualified and registered electrician, while plumbing work needs to meet national regulations. Contact your water supplier before doing anything as some plumbing changes and installations have to be notified in advance.” NHBF members can download a free in-depth guide to salon design at nhbf.co.uk/ salon-design-guide

The NHBF For less than 80p a day, the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) will help you boost your beauty business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. Find out more at nhbf.co.uk Join the NHBF before the end of April 2020 and quote PBA25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Join online at nhbf.co.uk/join Or call us on 01234 831965

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Hot Topic

101

Starting a

beauty BANK

in your

SALON

Hygiene poverty is a big issue but there is a lot industry professionals can do to help tackle the problem. Salon owner Jennifer Comiskey explains how to set up a beauty bank

s a beauty salon owner, I felt empowered to do something to help those in desperate situations in my home city Dundee in Scotland. People shouldn’t have to make a choice between feeding their family and buying themselves necessary hygiene and sanitary products. The beauty industry is often seen as empty and shallow but what we do brings confidence. Being clean is crucial for people’s dignity and mental health, so in November 2018, my salon joined the Beauty Banks community to help make a difference, and have been ever since – even appearing on STV News to help raise awareness of the issue.

How to get involved A lack of basic hygiene products and toiletries is currently a huge concern for charities that provide support to people in crisis. Beauty Banks is a not-forprofit organisation that seeks to galvanise the beauty community to provide daily hygiene essentials and personal care items to people living in serious poverty. Beauty Banks has starter kits to get you going and will match you with charities in your area, meaning donations stay local. Your salon will be listed as a Public Beauty Spot – a donation point in a public space – where clients are invited to bring in items. You just need to make sure you have boxes on display in your reception area with the Beauty Banks signage on, as well as posters in the window.

Requirements for a beauty bank Even though Beauty Banks will help you connect with charities, it’s worth contacting local services you think would benefit from donations too. Each of the places I approached – Trussell Trust Foodbank, Action for Children, schools, refuges and homeless centres – were grateful for the help and advised me on the specific items they needed, so I could make a particular call out to the community if I needed to.

The main items requested by charities are: soap, shower gel, toothpaste, toothbrushes, deodorant, sanitary items, shampoo, disposable razors, face wash and baby products. However, I also accept make-up and other personal care items. I drop the items to the charities or they collect them from the salon (sometimes once a week) – it’s a collaborative relationship.

The challenges Being involved in the local community in this way is highly rewarding but does come with some small challenges. On occasion, I’ve received items from well-meaning people that are opened or used, but for health and safety reasons we can only accept items in an unused condition. When I receive a used item, I try to recycle it in an eco-friendly way.

Securing donations from clients To encourage our clients to get involved, I sent an email to our database inviting them to come along to the salon to find out more and drop in items. I also post regularly about the banks on our social media channels and website. All of a sudden, people were turning up at the salon with donations – some clearing out their cupboards and others picking up an extra bar of soap on their weekly shop and dropping it in when coming in for their appointment. I’ve worked in the beauty industry since 1992 and I’ve loved every moment, but this has definitely been one of the most rewarding things I’ve done. PB

Jennifer Comiskey is owner of The Sunflower Room in Dundee, Scotland, which has had a Beauty Bank set-up in salon since 2018.

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103 Psychodermatology

Mind

over MATTER

With the rise of psychodermatology, a new wave of treatments are now focusing on the mind-skin link to achieve better skin from within, finds Eleanor Vousden

n his book, Skin Deep, psychologist Dr Ted Grossbart writes: “Shut anger or sadness or frustration out the door and it comes through in the window, or often enough, through the body. Your heart ‘attacks’. Your asthma ‘gasps’. Your eczema ‘weeps’.” If we’re unable to process stress or emotion, it can show up in the form of acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea or even disorders such as dermatillomania, which manifests as repetitive and compulsive skin picking. This can affect our emotions and self-esteem. In fact, a study published in the British Journal of Dermatology found that those who suffered with acne were 63% more likely to develop depression in the first year of being diagnosed. >

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Psychodermatology

104 “The link between mind and skin has been known for centuries, dating back as far as Hippocrates,” says Dr Alia Ahmed, a consultant dermatologist who runs a psychodermatology service at Eudelo Skin Clinic in Vauxhall, London, and practises in the NHS. “Psychodermatology considers both the mind and the skin together when seeing a person with a skin problem.” And these patients who Dr Ahmed sees are often facing a breadth of skin problems and body dysmorphia disorder, coupled with emotional distress. Neuroscientist Dr Claudia Aguirre, who specialises in the mind-skin link, explains that our negative thoughts can affect the skin far more than we may realise. A term in psychology called rumination, which is when someone has a recurring stream of negative thoughts, can wreak havoc on the skin. “This can hinder our healing, since it can lead to depressive thoughts or feelings of defeat about a recurring condition,” she says. “So, we can get stuck in a negative thought pattern, which is a form of stress and anxiety, and can maintain the body in an inflammatory state – this can even trigger or worsen inflammatory skin conditions like eczema and acne.” As a result, this stress can make the issue worse, and so the viscous cycle begins. “Feelings of emotional distress lead to the release of stress hormone cortisol, which is

known to affect the immune system (making the skin less able to defend itself), drive allergic responses, delay healing and disrupt the skin’s natural barrier,” she says. “I believe addressing the interaction between the brain, skin and mind is key to achieving healthy skin.”

Feelings of emotional distress lead to the release of stress hormone cortisol, which is known to affect the immune system, making the skin less able to defend itself

Keeping face

With the rising acknowledgement of psychodermatology and popularity of mindfulness, the emphasis on the mind-skin link is now trickling in to salon and spa treatments. One practitioner who is paving the way is Beata Aleksandrowicz, founder of the Aleksandrowicz System. Her treatment Face Cure addresses the connection to their client’s appearance and the emotions that can be held in the face. “If there is a preponderance of negative emotions, the muscles will remain contracted, which will restrict the flow of oxygen and nutrients to each cell and will be manifested by a lack of radiance and tone,” says Aleksandrowicz. Combined with mindfulness and massage, her treatment focuses on the client reconnecting with their facial appearance. “I see so many clients who are unhappy with their face. >

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11/03/2020 12:08

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Psychodermatology

106

Many have had aesthetic treatments, so they don’t always know what they should look like anymore; in some cases they become disconnected with their face,” she says. “It is as much about inner work on the conscious and subconscious as outer work on the facial muscles and skin.” The skin can be a barometer for what’s going on underneath, and tapping in to this mind-skin link is becoming increasingly important to deliver a tailored treatment. “More clients are coming in with stressed skin, whether that is redness, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, or general extremes on the skin,” says Katie Light, a holistic wellness coach and facialist, who treats clients at her treatment rooms in Brighton and Knightsbridge, London. Light often sees these skin issues going hand-in-hand with mental health problems. “If people are having anxiety, panic attacks or depression, which I see a lot more of now, it affects the skin, and everyone is supressing it because they think it’s the norm; no one is dealing with it,” she explains. “It’s not just about applying things topically, it’s about looking at everybody’s lifestyle and where the anxiousness is coming from to treat the stress as well as the skin.” In her treatments, Light uses a range of techniques. “I do affirmations and visualisations that are personal to that client, so I would ask: ‘How do you want to look? What is your ideal?’ and we make that in to a storyboard or a visual board of something to aim for,” she says. Neurolinguistic programming (NLP) is another technique she uses to treat her clients holistically, and between sessions she will also set up homework for them so they have a toolbox of techniques to hand to keep both the skin and mind healthy.

Light says the initial consultation is vital to fully understand her clients’ needs. “It’s an essential part of what I do to treat the physical, mental and emotional; whether it’s anxiety or eczema, they all need to be treated from a whole wellbeing perspective,” she says. Similarly, holistic practitioner Alexandra Soveral also addresses the mind-skin link in her facials and massages at her London clinic. “I’m a great believer in self-healing for many skin conditions, and this comes from how we feel about ourselves,” says Soveral. “So many people come to me distressed about their persistent acne, irritated eczema or reoccurring rosacea, but seldom have they considered its cause to be laced within the interconnections of the various body systems.” Soveral says clients suffering with persistent acne and stress are a common example of this. “They find squeezing their spots a stress-release mechanism that’s hard to give up, even when I explain that until they stop the acne is unlikely to go away as they are spreading the acne-causing bacteria every time they do it,” she says. “After squeezing a spot, the skin is inflamed and red and people often feel guilty, which then adds more stress.”

It is as much about inner work on the conscious and subconscious as outer work on the facial muscles and skin

Offering peace of mind When treating a client, it can often be difficult to get them to open up, says Soveral. “Many don’t admit to having emotional issues regarding >

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05/03/2020 16:00

Psychodermatology

108

their skin or appearance, and those that want to address it don’t have the resources, support or the knowledge of how to approach such a problem,” she says. Therefore, creating an offering on your treatment menu to open up this dialogue is important, as is having the training to spot what the client may have going on. “Holistic practitioners like me, and psychodermatologists, know the difference and can offer much-needed help and reassurance,” she says. Part of this is asking the right questions, says Light. “There could be severe redness in the client’s face and that may be due to cortisol levels, lack of sleep or what they’re putting on their skin topically, but until you start asking those questions and understanding what it is that’s going on for that person, you can’t get to the root of that.” Encouraging clients to adopt self-care strategies is another way to improve the mind-skin link between treatments. “This can also be done by practising self-healing on a daily basis and essentially making sure to take good care of ourselves,” says

Soveral. “Taking action triggers positivity and has a ‘domino’ effect on our emotions that eventually will benefit the skin.” A new app paving the way for this is Beautification, which offers guided meditations designed to be used in conjunction with a daily skincare routine. “With the rising awareness of skin-mind connection, it’s been proven that only three to four minutes of meditation a day can help ease the tension and bring out physical beauty benefits,” says chief executive and co-founder Heyyoung Kim.

3 WAYS TO IMPLEMENT THE MIND-SKIN LINK INTO YOUR TREATMENTS 1. Treat holistically “Having a relaxing massage with a choice of three oils is not necessarily holistic,” says Soveral. The treatment needs to be prescriptive to the client. “It’s important for salons and spas to understand that working with your client needs to go beyond the technical approach to the face and skin,” agrees Aleksandrowicz. “Understand where the client’s concern comes from and address them equally on a physical and emotional level. Advice should go beyond practical skincare suggestions to address the lifestyle, the emotional condition of the client and their ability to accept who they are.”

2. Upskill with training Many brands offer training to help tap into the mind-skin link. A part of SBC skincare training is its 5 Phase Concept, which involves an in-depth conversation that includes reading the client’s body language and employing methods to understand their emotional needs and establish trust. Meanwhile, Sienna X skincare training includes Emotional Freedom Technique (EFT), a holistic healing method designed to treat both physical and emotional distress by tapping the face at specific pressure points. Energy alignment practices, such as Reiki, are another way to create a holistic offering for your clients.

3. Invest in consultations “For a spa to incorporate psychodermatology, it needs to invest in further training of its therapists, change its booking system to accommodate more time for each client, and extend the consultation period,” says Soveral. Carving out time for these initial conversations is essential to truly understand the needs of the client. “I generally have a consultation with somebody on the phone first to find out a little bit more detail and then I will book them in according to what I think they might need,” says Light. “There’s a lot of detail that needs to come out at that point before I even get to the face.” PB

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Crunch TIME

Promotional Feature

109

Before

How Cutera’s new muscle sculpting device, truSculpt® flex, can replicate 54,000 crunches in just 45 minutes

esearch shows that, on average, a healthy, fit adult has the ability to perform a maximum of 100 crunches before reaching a point of complete exhaustion, but new technology is turning this on its head. Launched into the UK market in January 2020, the truSculpt ® flex from Cutera has the ability to bypass the brain and send unique waveforms to the skeletal muscle, which can then challenge muscles at an intensity and duration that is beyond the level that can be achieved during regular exercise. A recently published white paper showed that the device was capable of replicating the equivalent of 54,000 crunches. A typical abdominal workout may include up to 10 minutes of various movements to contract, hold and relax the abdominal muscles; however, truSculpt® flex allows for selective targeting of motor neurons to contract specific skeletal muscles without the assistance of surrounding muscle groups, for 45 minutes.

What is trusculpt flex®? The truSculpt ® ﬂex is a personalised muscle sculpting and building device that is FDA-cleared to strengthen, firm and tone the abdomen, buttocks, and thighs. Its proprietary Multi-Direction Stimulation (MDS) technology delivers three distinct treatment modes by replicating intensified crunch, squat and twisting actions. It has up to 16 handpieces, allowing you to treat up to eight areas simultaneously in just 45 minutes, the largest in the body sculpting industry.

The modes include: •P rep Mode – creates a twisting motion to warm up, stretch the muscles and slowly build a tolerance to muscle contractions • Tone Mode – contracts the muscle, holds it to the point of exhaustion, and then relaxes it to increase strength and enhance endurance • Sculpt Mode – fast, deep, sequential contractions of the muscles for building muscle mass.

After four weeks

After eight weeks

After 12 weeks

truControl™ targets selective muscles and allows the operator to customise current delivery (intensity and direction) with less energy for safe and consistent results. The handpiece design and use of truGel mean enhanced comfort and efficacy for patients and increased revenue for clinics. During treatment, muscle fibres undergo trauma or microscopic tears, and then cells attempt to repair the damage, which results in increasing muscle size and strength, similar to strength training. This repair process, known as hypertrophy, begins after each treatment and involves releasing hormones, such as testosterone, to activate cell recovery, form new blood capillaries, repair muscle fibres, and manage the gain in muscle mass. Patients will feel a gentle contraction sensation at the start of treatment. As the intensity slowly increases, the muscle contraction intensiﬁes but remains comfortable. Because truSculpt ® ﬂex is non-invasive, it requires no recovery time and patients are able to immediately return to normal activities after the treatment. Treatments can be personalised to meet patients’ fitness levels, shape, and goals, allowing practitioners to target multiple, specific small and large muscle groups with no downtime, with between four and six treatments required, depending on fitness. Results may be visible after the second session with maximum results visible eight to 12 weeks after the last session.

REDEFINING MUSCLE SCULPTING

Before

After

For further information, please contact Cutera on 01462 419937 or email info.uk@cutera.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Hot Topic

111

Spoiled

for CHOICE

Are you looking to take on a CBD skincare range in your spa? With so many suppliers in the market, spa director Finlay Anderson reveals how to find a reputable cannabidiol brand to collaborate with

ith the global CBD skincare market booming, now is the ideal time to work the antiinflammatory ingredient into your spa treatment menu, but with so much choice out there, how do you pick the right brand to partner with? I spent a lot of time looking for the right company to collaborate with at The Spa at Blythswood Square in Glasgow because I didn’t want to simply add CBD to our existing product range, or ask guests to ingest a tincture prior to a treatment and label it as a CBD spa day. I wanted to create something authentic.

How to find a reputable brand Before choosing a brand to collaborate with, you need to research the sector because there are so many different suppliers of CBD on the market and they range in quality. For example, strength for oral tinctures really has to start at 5% (500mg in a 10ml bottle) because anything below that will not carry enough CBD to have any real benefit.

The range you carry in your spa should also be organic, based in hemp or MCT (medium-chain triglycerides) oil, and be grown from European certified seeds. Extraction methods also deem whether a product is premium or not. For topical application, 1% CBD content or more is strong. Any lower than this and it won’t be bioavailable to have any therapeutic effect. At Blythswood Square, we use a 1% homecare range, which is strong and sustainable, plus a super-boosted and potent 5% (1,500mg of CBD) professional range.

The questions you need to ask You also want a laboratory-grade CBD oil from a company that has done independent testing on their products. CBD oil is still undergoing a lot of testing to ascertain its benefits so it’s currently considered a supplement. >

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Hot Topic

112

When meeting with CBD-infused skincare brands, anti-ageing. CBD acts on the endocannabinoid ask these key questions: system, the body’s innate balancing mechanism, • Is the CBD pharmaceutical grade? which is made up of a series of receptors sited • Does the company do lab testing? throughout the brain and central nervous system. • Do they have independent tests completed It is responsible for regulating mood, sleep, pain, and available to review? inflammation, appetite, memory and fertility. • Where do they source their raw materials? These receptors are called CB1 and CB2. • Do they have a good However, we also have reputation, with customer CB1 and CB2 receptors reviews available? sited throughout the • Is the range free from THC epidermis. CBD acts on £741m what the global CBD skincare market (tetrahydrocannabinol)? these receptors to affect is forecaste to be worth by 2024 the immune cells for *Prohibition Partners Impact Series: Disrupting Beauty Report In the end, we partnered inflammation, working on 11% of UK adults have tried a CBD product with Hashtag Organics, which sensory nerves to inhibit *YouGov has a CBD-infused skincare the sensation of itch (the range La Rue Verte – the only most common diagnosed 48% of the UK population is still not convinced Cibtac-accredited CBD symptom in dermatology about CBD’s effectiveness *Google product house in the industry. practice), and acting as Hashtag Organics provides an an antioxidant on the skin. organic, laboratory-grade CBD provides the range of CBD oil with three years’ experience, so it seemed missing particle for a free-radical to bond with, an excellent partner choice. stopping it going on to cause DNA damage. We know that inflammation and oxidative stress go hand in hand with ageing, so this offers a Your spa team must be aware of the advice they are giving layered approach. to clients on the benefits of using CBD-infused beauty CBD treatments fit well in the wellness market products. They can’t make claims of any medical benefits and I’ve had great success with creating full as that is still being researched. experiences centred around the treatments, For your therapists to feel truly comfortable talking about including thermal journeys, guided meditation CBD, they needed to master the treatment protocols as well and CBD post-treatment beverages. PB as further their understanding of the endocannabinoid system. This will allow your team to best communicate to the client how CBD biologically works and it will also give Finlay Anderson is spa director at therapists a method of explaining the benefits of the The Spa at Blythswood Square in ingredient without making medical claims. Glasgow, Scotland, which offers What you can say is that the ingredient can help the a range of CBD treatments. skin because it is anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and

CBD BEAUTY IN NUMBERS

The truth about CBD skincare

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MLX i Dome

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03/03/2020 15:17

AW20 Make-up

115

Fall into

FASHION

Want to know what it takes to make it as a fashion week MUA? Eleanor Vousden went backstage with top make-up artist Lan Nguyen Grealis to discover her tips and the backstage trends set to be big for AW20 1. Reach out

4. Build your network

Fashion week is one of the hardest parts of the industry to break in to as it’s about who you know, says Nguyen Grealis. Start by researching your favourite make-up artists and how they made it. “You’ve got to follow a trail of people before you can get in,” she says. “Think about what types of looks you’re interested in, or key make-up artists you look up to, and then find out who their agent is and approach the agency,” she says. Working with brands that support the shows is another way to get your foot in the door.

Create allegiances with other make-up artists. “If you pair up with other MUAs, a lot more doors will open up,” says Nguyen Grealis. “I can’t be everywhere, so I would rather give opportunities to people that I know. I can say: ‘they’d be great for that job’, then my clients down the line will say: ‘Lan recommends this person’ because I’ve trained them.”

“I’ve always been a champion of letting people come in off the cuff, because I feel it’s so important for new artists to understand what it takes to do it,” she says. “It’s not like you come out of school and go straight into fashion week shows; it takes maybe six or seven years of carrying, holding and cleaning brushes for other make-up artists before you actually get the chance to do the make-up.”

“The impression you give is so important,” she adds. “Your portfolio has to be really slick, you have to have the right etiquette and the right uniform – you can’t just turn up in a pair of jeans and expect someone to say ‘we’ll hire you to be our make-up artist’. You don’t always have to have a full face of make-up, but it’s so important to be presentable.” >

All photography: James Basire for Mii Cosmetics and BeautyLab London

2. Learn what it takes

5. Look the part

3. Have the right attitude “I like seeing people who really want to learn,” she says. “You can teach skills, but you can’t teach attitude.” Each year, Nguyen Grealis will choose one to three assistants who will travel with her year-round to develop their skills and portfolio, so it’s important to get stuck in and support the artist. “Some of my assistants have been with me 10 or 12 years; it’s all about teamwork,” she says.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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AW20 Make-up

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THE AW20 BACKSTAGE LOOKS Nguyen Grealis led the make-up direction at the On/Off AW20 show at London Fashion Week, which encompassed five different designers and make-up looks

Iyanu Iyanu’s reflective designs lent inspiration for a riot of colour and luminous skin, says Nguyen Grealis. “It has a metallic feel, so we replicated that in the skin and with lots of graphic shapes – we used the make-up as an accessory, so it’s quite mask-like.”

House of Sheldon Broken dolls were the inspiration behind the look and smoky eyes were accented with gold leaf. “We also put gold leaf on the lips and let it break off naturally, so they’ve still got this doll-like impression, but its broken,” she explains.

Yan Dengyu “Yan Dengyu’s clothes are very filmesque, so created a super-human vibe,” she says. Skin was kept fresh but contoured around the eyes and cheekbones. Then, the look was finished with dots of crystals for a robotic effect.

Zaful “Zaful is very sports-luxe and reflective, so we did silver accents on the eye sockets and the ears,” she says. To match the sporty feel, skin was kept dewy and flushed with pink on the cheeks.

404 Modern witches informed the make-up at 404. “The darkness comes from the fact that we kept the skin quite muted, but then the colourful flame-like eyebrows make it very beautiful,” she says.

AW20 MAKE-UP TRENDS Nguyen Grealis talks through the three key trends for the season ahead

Playfulness

“We’re in a new era where everything is broken up and coming back again,” says Nguyen Grealis. There’s a nod to all the different eras, but with a twist. “You’re getting an eyeliner, but it’s a broken eyeliner; you’re getting a brow, but it’s a broken brow,” she says. “Everything is a more playful and imperfect.”

Individuality

Models are no longer being prescribed a set look. “Artists are choosing their models then making a point of who that person is, and the make-up is just an add-on accessory,” she says. “In the past, you’ve had ‘just nude’ or ‘just a red lip’, but the trend is that everyone is doing individual looks; it’s all about diversity.”

See-through skin

“The emphasis backstage is on understanding the skin and making it flawless without too much make-up,” she says. Thanks to innovations in skincare product formulas, Nguyen Grealis says this is becoming easier to achieve. “We’re seeing a lot more see-through skin, more freckles and a more lived-in look,” she adds. Nguyen Grealis’ team used BeautyLab skincare and Mii Cosmetics to create the glowing skin backstage.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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119

Hot off

Louela Belle for Sabirah Official

CND for Halpern

nude nails for an urban fairytale finish, while over at Halpern, session tech Marian Newman used Lecenté foil in Rainbow Shimmer over black polish, applying “very tiny little lines so it’s quite subtle, but all the colours of the foil picked up the colour in the outfits”. In another look for the same show, she gave matte black nails a 3D glitter cuff, whereas at Sabirah Official, lead manicurist Marie Louise Costa went for a chunkier glitter in Artistic Colour Revolution’s Yank My Gold Chain to complement the golds and metallic purples in the clothing.

CND for Halpern

CND for Chanel Joan Elkayam

MUAs may have gone big on the metallics in the make-up looks at London Fashion Week AW20 – with foils used to create statement eyes at shows including Erdem, Preen and Halpern – but on the nails, the sheen was a little subtler. At Chanel Joan Elkayam, lead tech Sarah Poulten used Lecenté foils to add rough metallic tips and edges to

AW20 Nails

Metallic edge

THE CATWALK The AW20 London Fashion Week shows were awash with edgy blacks, blood reds and metallic accents. Eve Oxberry picks the nail trends clients will go crazy for later this year

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Peacci for On Off

Super-dark shades are always a staple of the autumn-winter catwalks but this year, we’re set to go deeper with some twists on the classic black. Newman gave CND’s Black Pool an edgier finish at Halpern’s LFW show, using Vinylux Matte Top Coat for an understated look. At Rejina Pyo, manicurist Loui-Marie toned down the stark shade by using Peacci’s Cinnamon Spice, a deep burgundy brown, for a more flattering finish. “The colour complemented the khakis, rusts and terracottas used in the show,” she comments. Meanwhile, Simone Cummings kept things classic using Peacci’s Jet Black on stiletto shapes for designer Yan Dengyu, who was part of LFW’s On/Off showcase. >

Peacci for Rejina Pyo

Peacci for On Off

Back to black

professionalbeauty.co.uk

11/03/2020 12:43

120

CND for Dilara Findikoglu

A super-sheer finish gave long nails an almost ethereal look at many of the London Fashion Week shows. At Roksanda, lead artist Pebbles Aikens kept the nails super-clean with sheer washes of Jessica Phenom in Pink-ABoo sealed in a matte-finish topcoat. Session tech Sylvie Macmillan used CND’s Vinylux nudes such as Bouquet, Powder My Nose, Romantique and Satin Slippers to offset the bright pastels of the Richard Quinn collection; while the rounded extensions at Dilara Findikoglu were adorned with CND Creative Play in Su-pearl-ative, Lost in Spice and Poppin’ Bubbly to create glistening opaque finishes.

CND for Dilara Findikoglu

CND for Richard Quinn

CND for Dilara Findikoglu

AW20 Nails

Sheer luck

Let it rain: at Yuhan Wang, manicurist Lauren Michelle Pires designed the nails to look “as if they had just been cried on”, dotting Peacci’s clear rubber topcoat over colour to create an effect of tears or rain.

Stark fade: One of the many looks created by Newman at Halpern saw on-trend deep red fade starkly into bright white, like blood in the snow, mirroring exactly the cuff detailing of the clothing collection.

CND for Halpern

Neon pop: Pops of colour were more prevalent than usual for autumn and Marian Newman’s fluorescent look for Tommy Hilfiger was among the best, using super-bright Peacci colours.

AW20 London Fashion Week Peacci for Yuhan Wang

Peacci for Tommy Hilfiger

Best of the rest

OPI for Molly Goddard

If there was one shade that dominated the nails this fashion week season it was a moody blood red. At Pam Hogg, lead tech Nickie Rhodes-Hill chose CND’s Bellini “to mirror the almost corpse bride/gothic glamour/Halloween-esque look of the collection”. OPI sponsored the Molly Goddard show, where Saffron Goddard created a rough-andready finish using layers of burgundy shade In The Cable Carpool Lane. Salon System supported the Mimi Wade show, where Karen Louise and her team used coffinshaped press-ons to create wearable length, painted in pops of sophisticated navy, grey or blood red. Peacci’s Bloodgood was the shade of choice for manicurist Loui-Marie Pires at the Shrimps show, while the reds went brighter at Kolchagov Barba, where the theme was pop art and Costa used Artistic Colour Revolution in Hotsy to give a pop of colour. PB

Salon System for Mimi Wade

OPI for Molly Goddard

CND for Pam Hogg

Blood red

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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ProfessionalBeautyUK 11/03/2020 15:08

Nail Notes

123

TOP

speed Georgie Smedley gives us the lowdown on the best speedy nail art designs to offer in salon and what to charge for the service

lthough nail art is popular with clients, having to do back-to-back sets of intricate hand-painted designs can eat into your time and profits. However, techs can now create cool and cost-effective nail art designs that will make customers happy, thanks to new techniques on the market. Georgie Smedley, award-winning nail tech and managing director of the Georgie Smedley Group, gives us the inside scoop on the easiest and quickest nail art looks to create in salon, as well as covering pricing and advertising your services.

What tools should I use for speedy nail art? “Stencils and stamping are great to use because they set the design for you, taking away the hard work of drawing it freehand. They’re also ideal for speedily creating the more intricate designs that have come back into fashion, like animal print,” explains Smedley. “A brand I distribute called Aeropuffing is also a really nice, easy way of doing edgy airbush nail art, helping techs create airbrush-style designs without using an airbrush gun.”

How should I price my nail art? “For stamp, stencil or airbrushing nail art designs I would charge £1 per nail on top of your standard manicure pricing. However, if you’re going to do all 10 fingers then £10 might feel a bit pricey, so I would discount it to £7. When you’re creating more intricate nail art styles via hand painting, which requires more skill, then I would charge between £1.50 and £2 per nail,” says Smedley. “There’s nothing embarrassing about charging more for nail art as clients will pay for it, but I know so many techs who don’t do it. They paint their client’s nails and, for example, add glitter onto one nail on each hand but then don’t add this cost on to the final bill. It’s silly because the tech has paid for that glitter and has paid to go on a course to learn how to create glitter designs, yet they’re not charging for the service.” She adds: “I always advise techs to look at what other salons nearby are charging too and then set their prices a bit higher than them. That way, you will attract that client who is willing to pay more. That’s the type of client you want to make a regular.” PB

How should I advertise the service? “The biggest mistake I see all the time is techs not doing nail art designs on their own nails – they’re not showcasing their skills. If you’ve got a cool design on your nails then you’re always going to be able to sell that nail art to customers. People will see it and go, ‘Oh, that looks nice’, and you just reply, ‘Thanks. Would you like it on yours?’. It’s the easiest way to upsell,” explains Smedley.

Georgie Smedley is managing director of the Georgie Smedley Group (formerly Nail Harmony UK). The company distributes Aeropuffing, Gelish, Lash eXtend and Urban Nails, as well as manufacturing its own nail lacquer brand All That Jazz.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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24/02/2020 12:07

Operational Advice

125

DISCLAIMERS and waivers

Do you use disclaimers as a substitute for patch tests or other elements of a consultation? You could be putting yourself at risk of an expensive claim, explains Christina Ryan

n the beauty industry, a disclaimer is often used by a therapist to avoid or limit their liability if something goes wrong during a treatment. A disclaimer form can also been called a waiver form. A therapist may obtain a completed disclaimer from their client with the intention that their client cannot pursue a claim against them if there is an injury as a result of the treatment. The definition of a disclaimer is, “any statement intended to specify or delimit the scope of rights and obligations that may be exercised and enforced by parties in a legally recognised relationship. In contrast to other terms for legally operative language, the term disclaimer usually implies situations that involve some level of uncertainty, waiver or risk”. In particular, many therapists use a disclaimer instead of carrying out a patch test prior to treatment. In some situations it may be difficult to arrange a patch test if a client calls into a salon hoping to have a treatment there and then, or if you work on a mobile basis it may be difficult to travel to a client 24 hours before the treatment to carry out the patch test. But the problem is that in reality a disclaimer does not protect the therapist from having a claim made against them. A client still has the right to pursue a claim even if they have signed a disclaimer. In a court of law, a judge would deem the therapist to be the professional as they are acting within their profession and have had the necessary training to do so. This training means the therapist should be leading their client as to how the treatment is correctly performed. If a therapist has been trained to carry out a patch test, it would be deemed that they are acting

unprofessionally if they advise their client to sign a disclaimer instead. It is a therapist’s duty to carry out a patch test in accordance with their training and the manufacturer’s guidelines. In this situation, should a claim be taken to court then the judge would rule in favour of the client and not the therapist as the therapist should have known better and followed their training. This is also very important with regards to adhering to the conditions in your insurance policy. For example, if a client signed a disclaimer to confirm that although they had eczema they were happy for a treatment to be performed, then had an adverse reaction to the treatment, the therapist could be in trouble. If that client pursued a claim, the therapist would be found in breach of their insurance policy condition because they had not carried out the treatment in accordance with their training, so the insurer would not meet the claim. This would leave any settlement amounts down to the therapist to pay themselves. In summary, a disclaimer is not worth the piece of paper it is written on and should not be used as a way to cut corners or try and reduce therapist liability. PB

A disclaimer is not worth the piece of paper it is written on and should not be used as a way to cut corners or try and reduce therapist liability

Christina Ryan is senior account handler for Professional Beauty Direct Insurance, which offers annual cover from £52.50 per year for therapists and £124 for salons. Contact the team on: 0345 605 8670 info@professionalbeautydirect.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk/insurance

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Treatment News

127

Raising

THE BAR 3D-lipo 3D-Powersculpt

3D-lipo’s latest launch allows operators to improve clients’ muscle definition by stimulating a number of different muscle groups. “We’re known very much for our body contouring, and 3D-lipo is using permanent technologies for fat-removal, tightening and the improvement of cellulite,” says founder and managing director Roy Cowley. “But to give us a full 360-degree approach, we’re now introducing the 3D-Powersculpt, which is concentrating on the muscular structure.” The new device can be used on various muscle groups in the body, including the arms, abdomen, buttocks and legs. It uses high-intensity, focused electro-magnetic (HIFEM) technology to stimulate multiple muscle contractions that cannot be achieved in exercise alone, consequently causing the muscle volume in the area to increase. 3D-lipo claims that just one 30-minute treatment is equivalent to 20,000 bicep curls, crunches, squats or leg extensions. Additionally, the treatment aids fat-burning due to the increased metabolic rate. Like many of 3D-lipo’s devices, 3D-Powersculpt has been designed to be more affordable than similar machines on the market, meaning

From 3D-lipo’s latest musclestimulation device to Lash Perfect’s take on the brow lamination trend, these innovations are not to be missed

salons can offer clients a more competitive treatment price. “We’re a fraction of the price and offering similar technology and affordability to the clinics and the end users is really our point of differentiation,” says Cowley. The treatment is quick to perform and requires no downtime. Clients are able to have a maximum of two treatments per week and, thanks to the large panels, large surface areas can be treated. The treatments are targeted at clients who are struggling to see results in the gym, or want to maintain results while they are inactive. 3D-Powersculpt can also be used in conjunction with other 3D-lipo devices. “This can be used standalone for someone who is looking for more bodyperfecting and toning rather than fat removal, or it can be combined with 3D Ultimate Pro to get the best of both worlds,” says Cowley. A typical treatment takes 30 minutes. Depending on location, 3D-lipo recommends charging approximately £95 for a single treatment, with a course of six to eight required. Call the brand on 01788 220451 professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Treatment News

128 Aquasure H2 The Aquasure H2 brand has been developed by wellknown aesthetic professional Dr Elisabeth Dancy and involves a device that combines cleansing, hydration,

pore reduction, exfoliation, vitamin C infusion and galvanic lifting for brighter-looking skin. Firstly, the skin is cleansed with hydrogen-infused water to deliver antioxidants and promote hydration. Hydrogen gas is a very small molecule that is able to pass freely into the cell to combat free-radicals that cause ageing. AHAs and BHAs then slough away dead skin cells in the T-zone, helping to treat acne and reveal a brighter complexion. An infusion of vitamin C then helps to promote smoother, brighter skin before the treatment is finished with galvanic current and a hydrating mask, helping to lift the skin, treat inflammation and promote circulation. The gentleness of the ingredients used maintains the skin flora and pH, making the treatment suitable for all skin types, and particularly for the treatment of rosacea, oily skin and acne. Aquasure H2 recommends charging approximately £85 per 30–40-minute treatment. Call the brand on 02380 676733

This month we tried… Sensory Retreats Divine Escape The lowdown: Sensory Retreats is the new wellness brand from Shared Beauty Secrets, the UK distributor of massage treatment brand Lava Shells. The 85-minute Divine Escape treatment restores mind, body and soul using a combination of rejuvenating massage techniques, rose quartz crystals and sound healing. The experience: My treatment took place with Natalie Tyers from the Sensory Retreats training and development team at Urban Retreat at The White House in London. Tyers explained that this ritual harnesses the five senses to balance physical and mental wellbeing. Lying face up, with a fragrant lavender pillow placed over my eyes, I was given a rose quartz to hold on my chest, which Tyers said would help “open my heart and rid my body of negative energy”. Next came the sound therapy, which takes place through the entire treatment, blending crystal singing bowls, to rebalance the chakras and promote deep relaxation, with koshi chimes, said to clear the air around the body. This was played at a soundwave frequency of 432 hertz – the harmonic intonation of nature known as the heartbeat of the Earth – to not only promote relaxation but cellular healing, too. The vibrations felt like they were running through my whole body, a sensation I found so soothing.

Tyers then began the massage, using a mix of myofascial release and remedial soft tissue techniques, starting with my legs, before moving onto my arms, shoulders and scalp. She then took the crystal out of my hands and asked me to turn over, repeating these movements on my back, arms and legs to help increase my dopamine and serotonin levels, before I was slowly brought back to reality, with a cup of herbal tea waiting for me. The verdict: This treatment is about helping clients switch off and it does just that using soft but extremely effective massage techniques. I felt very serene and slept like a baby when I got home. Business benefits: This is a great way to introduce clients to the holistic side of beauty, showcasing the benefits of sound therapy and crystals. Plus, every client is gifted the rose quartz they hold in treatment, giving them a portable touch point to remind them of your salon or spa. This treatment has been designed with the therapist in mind too, incorporating a lot of massage movements that use the forearm rather than the hands to avoid unnecessary strain on the wrists. Tried by Amanda Pauley Shared Beauty Secrets recommends charging £85 for the 85-minute treatment. Call the brand on 01295 235511

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/03/2020 12:52

LASH & BROW STYLING

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Treatment News

130 CACI Hand Rejuvenation CACI has adapted its microcurrent technology to treat signs of ageing on the hands. Firstly, CACI’s Rejuvenating Hand Mask is applied to nourish and hydrate the delicate skin in this area. Then, Electro Gloves, made from a special electrically conductive material, are fitted over

the mask. When activated with the CACI System, they deliver tiny electrical impulses that help to improve skin firmness and boost circulation, leaving hands smooth and looking visibly softer and youthful. The treatment can also be combined with a CACI NonSurgical Facial for a simultaneous hand and face treatment, adding just 10 minutes on to the facial treatment time, while the hand mask can be retailed to customers for home use. CACI recommends charging £40 for the 30-minute standalone treatment or £80 if combined with a facial for a 70-minute treatment. The hand mask can also be retailed for £7.50. Call the brand on 020 8731 5678

This month we tried… Lash Perfect Hi Brow Lamination The lowdown: Brow lamination is fast becoming a sought-after treatment and works by restructuring the brow hairs to keep them in their desired shape, whether they are brushed up or smoothed and sleek. The experience: Brow artist Hannah Walker began with a consultation to discuss the effect I was looking to achieve. I have always liked the fluffy brow look; however, my usual brow gel is never enough to tame my stubborn hairs into place all day. Firstly, Walker cleansed my brow area and applied a styling glue before brushing the hairs upwards with an eyebrow spoolie. This can be fiddly, as it’s important to ensure all the brow hairs are brushed upwards so they can be adapted. Once the hairs were held in place with the glue, a solution was applied and left for 12 minutes to break down the bonds in the hair. When removed, a fixing solution was then applied for a further 12 minutes, which sets the brow hairs into place. Walker then showed me the results and finished the treatment by combing the brows and fixing them into place with a nourishing serum. This keeps the eyebrows in the desired shape while the client avoids water contact over the next 24 hours. After this, the brows can be treated as normal and results can last up to eight weeks. The verdict: I was impressed with the results and found that when I styled my eyebrows in the morning they would stay in place all day. I liked that the treatment allows for the eyebrows to be combed into different shapes, to achieve different looks day to day. This way, the client does not need to commit to a brushed-up

look if they occasionally want to wear their eyebrows more groomed, or vice versa. Business benefits: The treatment can be performed on all brow types from fine to full and is an opportunity to upsell your brow tint or shape offerings. A tint can be applied before the final step and brows can be tidied up afterwards. The treatment is trending at the moment so it’s set to be very popular as clients look to achieve a fluffy brow or tame unruly brows into place. Tried by Eleanor Vousden Depending on location, Lash Perfect recommends charging between £30– £50 for this 35 to 45-minute treatment. Call the brand on 020 8500 9028

Before

After

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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FORTE VILLAGE SARDINIA - Italy

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Light Elegance Marketed as a salon gamechanger, JimmyGel is a soak-off building gel in a bottle that can be used for everything from a quick manicure to a set of long extensions. Formulated by and named after Light Elegance owner and head chemist Jim McConnell, JiimmyGel claims to offer the four-week wear you would get from a hard gel but without the need for filing the natural nail. Trade: £19.45 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

New Products

133

Building

UP STRENGTH

Innovations in builder gels and nail lamps are among the major launches set to hit salon shelves this month

The Edge The Edge’s Lyra 36w UV/LED Combination Lamp boasts a professional curved design, curing both UV builder and hard gels in addition to LED gels. Some features of the device include five-finger curing, a digital timer display and two timer settings: 30 seconds and 60 seconds. Trade: £39 01256 840840 edgenails.co.uk

Crystal Clear Skincare and devices brand Crystal Clear is introducing the Lifting Wand Facial, an at-home device duo designed to lift and firm skin for a fresh look. The two wands are powered by sonic waves that stimulate the muscles to contract. They are sold for use with a pharma-grade hyaluronic acid serum to boost hydration, and claim to offer visible results within 60 seconds. There are two intensities – one for around the eyes and a stronger one for facial firming. Trade: £89.99 0151 709 7227 crystalclear.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

134 Hive The latest addition to Hive’s Lash Tint range, No.5 Espresso Dark Brown, is a vegan, paraben-free and cruelty-free formula created to achieve richer colour and better brow definition, tailored for clients with darker complexions but suitable for those with lighter skin tones also. The product uses Cortex Colour Technology, which quickly penetrates the cortex of each hair, and is designed for use with other Hive crème-based tints for a customisable range of shades. Trade: £4.50 0845 450 4802 hiveofbeauty.com

Esse Esse Probiotic Skincare combines ultra-hydrating hyaluronic serum with the skinimproving benefits of prebiotics and probiotics. Inulin, alpha-glucan oligosaccharides and yacon root extract are combined to aid skin microbe growth, with an additional one million inactivated lactobacillus bacteria and an extract of lyseed bacterial cells found in each millilitre. Trade: £16.45 for 15ml; £29.62 for 30ml 020 3602 7893 esseskincare.co.uk

St Tropez

Spotlight

Tanning expert St Tropez is launching three new products, including Purity Vitamins Professional Bronzing Mist, enriched with vitamins C and D boosters that brighten, protect and mimic the positive effect that sunshine has on the skin without the harmful effects of UV rays. Infused with hyaluronic acid for instant hydration and green mandarin water and hibiscus extract for free radical and environmental damage protection, the product is 95% natural and requires no rinsing. St. Tropez’s Purity Vitamins Bronzing Water Face Serum is the other latest addition to the Self Tan Purity range, offering up to 72 hours of hydration, peach flower extract for antioxidant protection, vitamin C from kakadu plum and avocado oil that is rich in vitamin D. Also new is Self Tan Express Bronzing Gel. This lightweight, non-sticky three-inone tanning product provides a streakfree finish that fades evenly and lasts up

to 10 days. The product can be left on for one hour to achieve a light tan, two for a medium and three for a dark tone. Harnessing water-break gel technology, the natural tanning active is suspended in a gel matrix so that it “breaks” onto the skin for a more even and effective application. RRP: £55 for Bronzing Mist; £22 for Face Serum; £33 for Bronzing Gel 0345 222 8080 (Ellisons) sttropeztan.co.uk

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New Products

136 Kaeso Designed to nourish, moisturise and promote healthy hands and nails, Kaeso’s new Manicure Collection uses a naturally derived, vegan formula free from parabens, sulphates, propylene glycol and mineral oil. Included in the collection, which is packaged in a recyclable carton, are Red Berry Splash Hand Soak, Pink Grapefruit Drizzle Hygiene Spray, Mulberry & Pomegranate Sorbet Hand Scrub, Wild Berry Butter Hand Mask and Cranberry Sensation Hand Treatment Cream. Trade: £13.30 0141 812 5000 (PBS) professionalbeautysystems.co.uk

Lecenté Nude Nail Shadows is Lecenté’s latest collection and can be brushed or pressed onto gel-polish with the Lecenté P1 Brush, or mixed with L&P or hard gel for an encapsulated aesthetic. The range comes in three nude shades: champagne-toned Butterscotch, suitable for bridal season; Cappuccino, a sophisticated, light brown with a slight shimmer; and a spicy pink-toned Cinnamon with golden undertones. Each can be used to create ombréeffect nails, or simply for full coverage. Trade: £3.99 each 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Orly Orly has released its ’90s-inspired spring nail colour collection Feel the Beat, offering crème shades Lips Like Sugar; Sweet Thing; and In the Groove, as well as the shimmers Magic Moment; Lilac You Meant It; and Glow Baby. All products are vegan, cruelty free, and free from harmful ingredients. This collection also comes in sleek packaging, featuring Orly’s patented Gripper Cap, as well as being released alongside a new 600-bristle Genius Brush. Trade: £5.50 each; between £27.50 and £82.50 for sets 01827 280080 (Grafton International) graftons.co.uk

NSI NSI is launching the Polish Pro range, including Transfer Foils, which come in Festival, Lace and Flower collections; Transfer Foil Adhesive; Sparkling Micro Diamonds, which can be easily glued or used with a UV or LED topcoat; Mixed Nail Art Wheels, a mixture of micro diamonds, pearls, rhinestones, flowers and 3D nail art; Multi-Mix Rhinestones, available in Crystal and Dark Crystal; Sparkling Glitters in Lilac, Pink and Opal shades; and a new, clear 15ml Rubber Base Shade. Trade: £6.95 for Transfer Foils box; £3.95 for Transfer Foils Adhesive; £4.50 for Mixed Nail Art Wheel; £2.50 for Sparkling Micro Diamonds per jar; £3.95 for Multi Mix Rhinestones per jar; £1.95 for Sparkling Glitters per jar; £13.99 for Rubber Base 0800 881 8469 nsinails.co.uk

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Advertorial

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We have the 3JUVE® Facial Rejuvenation platform in the clinic. It works perfectly with our current treatment range as we concentrate so much on the skin and gives us 3 platforms to treat clients with; Rebright, ResurFACE and Remodel. It’s fantastic for tailoring courses of treatments to help our clients work on their individual concerns and to assist in them having the best version of their own skin.

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New Products

138 Pure Nails Polibuild, the latest launch from Pure Nails, combines acrylic and hard gel for an all-in-one nail system that provides a strong and flexible enhancement. Polibuild requires no monomer mixing and ratios. Instead, Halo Liquid Control can be used with the product to manipulate it and allow techs to work as fast or as slow as they like. The system promises a smooth finish that’s easy to file and comes in Clear, Bright White, Soft White, Sheer Pink, Nude and Cover Pink shades. Trade: £11.99 01634 671122 purenails.co

Phytomer Phytomer is set to launch multiple products this month including its new organic, algae-based range Cyfolia, with Radiance Cleansing Cream, Exfoliating Cream and Hydra-Comforting Cream soon to be available, all of which come in eco-conscious packaging. Also set to launch is Seatonic Stretch Mark and Firming Oil, a multisensory oil with an ultra-light texture and a scent of orange flower designed for pregnant and breastfeeding women, with a hypoallergenic, dermatologist-tested formula that is marine-based and allergen and preservative-free. RRP: £28.25 for Cleansing Cream; £33 for Exfoliating Cream; £55.50 for HydraComforting Cream; £54.75 for Seatonic 01892 750850 phytomer.co.uk

Mylee Mylee’s new 5-in-1 Builder Gel is easy to use and quick curing, offering extended nails that are stronger and have greater duration. The gel can be used as both a top coat, offering chip resistance, or as a base coat to reinforce weaker nails, ideal for moulding nail shapes by creating the ideal apex. Also enabled is the sticking or encapsulating of rhinestones, sequins and embellishments. This product works well in conjunction with other Mylee products, such as its lamps and polishes. RRP: £10 020 8365 5858 mylee.co.uk

Murad Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum and Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector are the latest launches from Murad, designed to treat the appearance of dark circles and achieve dramatically brighter-looking skin. Vitamin C and glycolic acid help improve hyperpigmentation and uneven tone for brighter and healthier looking skin, while phyto-luminescent extract offers protection from UV radiation. Instead, the corrector uses light-reflecting red algae and giant kelp extract and micro minerals to tackle dark circles and puffiness, universal for all skin tones. Trade: £39 for Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum; £30.33 for Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector 0844 472 7050 murad.co.uk

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New Products

140 Spongellé Flower Child is a limited-edition range of body wash-infused buffers from Spongellé, formulated with extracts of yuzu, edelweiss and vetiver to cleanse, exfoliate, massage and nourish skin. There are three variations: Poppy, with notes of sparkling citrus, carnation and rose; Daisy, with a mandarin zest, Bulgarian rose and creamy sandalwood; and Tulip, which smells of bamboo, water lotus and sheer musk. Also available to purchase is the Spongellé Travel Case. Trade: £5.50 each 0345 217 1360 spongelle.co.uk

QMS QMS has launched Epigen Depuff Pollution Shield Eye Serum, which incorporates hyaluronic acid, peptides, anionic polysaccharides, caffeine and coffee extract. It helps protect the skin around the eyes from epigenetic changes caused by external aggressors, such as pollution; reduces the appearance of puffiness and dark circles; diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; and has a soothing feeling when used with the cooling ceramic applicator. RRP: £85 for 15ml 020 3971 2590 qmsmedicosmetics.com

Pevonia Pevonia has repackaged its Multi-Active Hand Cream prior to re-launching the product in the UK and Ireland, the light-textured, non-greasy cream now comes in a squeezy tube with a flip-top cap. The formula contains glycolic acid to keep the skin’s surface smooth through light exfoliation, and vitamins A and E to combat signs of ageing and protect the nail and cuticle. The addition of chamomile soothes and calms the skin to help hands withstand cold weather and hard water, as well as providing UV protection. Trade: £19.95 01449 727000 pevonia.co.uk

Mavala Mavala’s SS20 Chill & Relax collection sees the nail company embracing softer colours inspired by nature, made through the mixing of neutral tones such as off-whites and creams with sandy terracottas and burnt henna tones. This includes rosy Beige Chill; light Blue Siesta; porcelain Green Zen; cinnamon Brown Break; nude Pink Relax; and antique Rose Nap. Designed to minimise solvent evaporation, the formulation delivers microscopic air pockets to allow nails to breathe, is vegan friendly and free from parabens and formaldehyde. Trade: £3.08 each 01228 270101 mavala.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

141 Caudalie Launching in May, Caudalie’s Vinoperfect Dark Spot Correcting Moisturizer will accompany its Vinoperfect Radiance Serum. Ingredients include niacinamide (vitamin B3), which gradually evens skin complexion and reinforces the skin barrier; white peony, a flower with strong antioxidant properties to promote skin brightness and radiance; and viniferine, which is 62 times stronger than vitamin C and combats all types of dark spots while boosting microcirculation to help restore a naturally radiant complex. RRP: £34 020 7720 7111 uk.caudalie.com

Katie Barnes Tool Range

Clarins

Katie Barnes has released two new products. The KB 4-in-1 C-Curve Tool Set has a diamond-coated file at one end, and the other is a ruler and angle measuring tool for the length and c-curve depth of the nail. This product is available in six sizes and made from aluminium with a black finish. Also new is the KB Double-Ended Cuticle Tool, which can be used to remove the excess cuticle from the nail plate, helping prevent service breakdown while achieving a neater finish. Trade: £34.99 for KB 4-in-1 C-Curve Tool Set; £19.99 for KB Double-ended Cuticle Tool 01926 493974 katiebarnesacademy.com

Body Partner, the new stretch mark and skin elasticity-improving formula from Clarins, combines organic green banana extract and asiaticoside from centella asiatica to improve skin firmness and reinforce collagen and elastin fibres, targeting four dimensions of stretch marks – width, length, depth and colour. The product is packaged in an eco-designed airless pump tube made from recycled plastic, ensuring that both the skin and environment are respected. Trade: £40 01279 774215 clarins.com

Lash Perfect Lash Perfect has announced Super Sized Plus Trays, a larger version of its normal-sized Russian Express Lash Trays. These new pre-fanned, lightweight and easy-to-apply lashes, which come in 40 fans per line in the new size, create a greater lash volume in just 30 minutes. The lashes are handmade from high-quality, synthetic material and are available in two mixed trays: 3D and 6D C Curl. Trade: £35 020 8500 9028 lashperfect.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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142

Classified

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Supplies

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Classified

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CALL GABRIEL LARTEY on 020 3841 7376 or email gabriel@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Career Path

144

How to make it as a...

wellbeing director With more companies wising up to the importance of wellness for their teams, Aromatherapy Associates’ Christina Salcedas explains how she looks after the brand’s staff as well as consumers

1. Embrace change and trends “My full title is now global education and wellbeing director and my job is certainly not the traditional director role. It’s the first of its kind within the company as we’ve never had anything more senior than a training manager before. On top of being responsible for the global spa treatment strategy and the education and training of our therapists, I also run events and that’s where the wellbeing element of the title comes from. “As the industry shifted towards wellness, my role became more of a spokesperson – I’m responsible for the wellbeing of our internal teams and can often be found leading group stretches or breathing exercises during corporate meetings.”

2. Helping others is key “In the back of my mind, I always knew I wanted to work in wellbeing and help people. Initially, I wanted to be a social worker but the minute I got into treatments it was a no-brainer. You can instantly change how someone is feeling; I know it’s a cliché and every therapist says it, but there is absolutely nothing like someone telling you they feel amazing after their treatment. “Helping fellow therapists is also a really rewarding part of my job. I’m very lucky to still be a hands-on trainer, and seeing a group of therapists leave your training session re-inspired and ready to go out there and make a difference to their guests’ wellbeing is one of the best parts of my job.”

3. Brand knowledge is imperative “I’ve been working for Aromatherapy Associates for nine years; I started as a trainer and account manager

and worked up to where I am now. All day, every day, I talk about the brand and its heritage as well as the products, so knowing it inside out is fundamental. I lead by example, so if I don’t live and breathe the brand, how can my trainers teach it? “You have to keep up to date with all the wellness trends; I’m obsessed with wellbeing, so need to ensure I’m leading by example.”

4. Expect to have a diverse role “My role encompasses everything from admin to designing treatments. Developing my first ever Aromatherapy Associates treatment and having the brand take it on was a real highlight for me. “I’m one of the lucky few that gets to trial things during creation, which is definitely one of the perks of the job. I often have something exciting on my desk at the end of the day to take home and try. “It’s not all exciting though – the administrative part of the role is definitely challenging. As therapists, we’re not made to sit behind a desk or computer. I’ve managed to develop a great balance between being in the field and behind the scenes though.”

5. Make your own opportunities “Wellbeing is a relatively new specialism so seek out the companies you would like to work for and propose the role of wellbeing director if it isn’t a position that currently exists. It’s such a multi-faceted role. You need to be a leader, motivated, healthy, happy, compassionate, organised, resilient, adaptable, detailed and commercial.” PB

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