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toppings, ingredients and specialities

PIZZA STORIES IS ABOUT RECIPES AND INSPIRATION Which flour should be used for a gourmet pizza dough?

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EDITORIAL

Recounting the good, healthy and pleasant produce of Italian vegetable gardens, present throughout the peninsula and islands, is always a job that pleases foreign writers and gourmets visiting Italy, alike. Walking through vineyards in August, September and October and sifting through the grapes is not only a pleasure that takes us back to our childhood, but it’s the knowledge that the fruit of that grape will be a wine that will reach tables all over the world. And there is a reason if this happens, as with extra virgin olive oil, from the beautiful olive groves that reach from the pre-Alpine hills to the islands in the heart of the Mediterranean. And the same goes for citrus fruits - oranges, lemons, mandarins, cedars, bergamots - Italy is their place of choice, and all this thanks to mother nature and the Mediterranean sun that guarantee slow and apt ripening.

Great cuisine excellent requires raw materials BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

And then there are the vegetable gardens where artichokes, radicchio, savoy cabbage, cabbage and broccoli are born in the winter, and the many summer products that represent the summa of high-quality horticulture. This is Italy, whose products the great international starred chefs no longer do without, confirming their goodness and their ability to enhance the aromas, tastes and flavours of dishes and pizzas. Italy's commitment in the agri-food sector is at the maximum and will remain so in the future, to help Italian cuisine to preserve its excellence and foreign cuisines to enrich themselves with tastes and flavours that recall the extraordinary beauty, colours and aromas of unique or original art from the homeland of Dante Alighieri, the author of the Divine Comedy.

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SUMMARY

TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

ARTICLES

RECIPES

p.6

Toppings, ingredients and specialities

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THE RECOGNISED EXCELLENCE OF ITALIAN AGRI-FOOD PRODUCTS AT THE SERVICE OF QUALITY CUISINE

p.16

BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

p.10

The Tomato,

Francesco Martucci

p.18

Artichokes of Italy:

— — — THE KING OF HORTICULTURAL PRODUCTS

BY CATERINA VIANELLO

p.26

Bologna Mortadella

DISCOVER THE BEST VARIETY

BY CATERINA VIANELLO

BY DAVID MANDOLIN

p.30

Filomena Palmieri p.44

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Pesto

Crispy peppers

BY VIRGILIO PRONZATI

BY MARISA CAMMARANO

p.32

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Friarielli, A TYPICAL NEAPOLITAN EXCELLENCE BY MARISA CAMMARANO

p.36

Marco Montuori

p.48

Renato Bosco

p.54

Olive Oil

Calabrese Nduja

BY EDITORIAL STAFF

BY MARISA CAMMARANO

p.50

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1. Toppings, ingredients and specialities//The recognised excellence specialities

BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

of Italian agri-food products at the service of quality cuisine

A healthy diet needs raw materials of the highest quality and Italian catering has always favoured these raw materials, because it is a consolidated tradition of the women of the house to prepare dishes for their family with the best the territory offers, and the same happens in restaurants, in trattorias, in agritourism restaurants. Those who work in the kitchen, having learned at home or in hotel schools, then know the nutritional characteristics of the products and know how to work and cook them so that they best preserve their extraordinary properties.

IN ITALY, THE SEARCH FOR NATURAL RAW MATERIALS OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY IS NOT A PROBLEM, BECAUSE THREE VERY IMPORTANT FACTORS GUARANTEE THEM: THE EARTH, THE SUN AND TRADITIONAL PRODUCTION.

The high quality of Italian cuisine has been amply demonstrated by the American scientist Ancel Keys who, after arriving in Italy at the end of the First World War, remained for a long time, fascinated by the "Mediterranean diet"; perfectly functional to the nutritional needs of people, also contributing to safeguarding their health. As an important Italian scholar,

Massimo Montanari, wrote, it is also true that “food is culture when it is produced, when it is prepared, when it is consumed. It is the fruit of our identity and a tool to express and communicate it." And, in food, both the very high Italian food culture and the choice and care of raw materials, the result of study and an over millennial tradition, emerge clearly. In addition to these elements - food culture and the search for quality products - that characterise Italian cuisine, there are two others. First of all, the earth. Italy - as famous European travellers, writers and artists visiting our country have written several times - is not only the garden of Europe, because it is also the vegetable garden of Europe. It is, in fact, a common belief that raw materials like wine, extra virgin olive oil, wheat, fruit, citrus fruits, legumes and vegetables produced in Italy have no equal in the world.

HOWEVER, IN ORDER TO HAVE HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS, THE LAND AND THE PRODUCTIVE CULTURE ARE NOT ENOUGH BECAUSE SPECIAL HELP IS ALSO NEEDED, GIVEN BY AN IDEAL CLIMATE.

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TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

1. TOPPINGS: THE RECOGNISED EXCELLENCE OF ITALIAN AGRIFOOD PRODUCTS AT THE SERVICE OF QUALITY CUISINE

WHAT IF WE WANT HIGH QUALITY PIZZAS? And here the sun comes into play with all that it gives us, because it is the sun's rays and the temperature guaranteed by the sun that awaken nature and make so many products grow in an ideal way. It is known, in fact, that olive oil is produced in all countries bathed by the Mediterranean and Aegean seas, but the variety of cultivars, the arrangement of the olive groves, the techniques of production and processing of the olives, all heated by an extraordinary sun, give a unique and delicious extra virgin olive oil in Italy. And the same must be said for artichokes, pumpkins and courgettes, peppers and chillies, salads, radicchio, carrots, savoy cabbage and cabbage and for all the other wonderful Italian horticultural products.

IDEAL EARTH, A WARM AND SHINING SUN AND A PRODUCTION TRADITION THAT ORIGINATED IN THE GARDENS OF ANCIENT ROME, OVER TWO MILLENNIA AGO, GUARANTEE THE WONDERFUL QUALITY OF ITALIAN FOOD PRODUCTS, KNOWN AND REQUESTED BY THE BEST RESTAURANTS AROUND THE WORLD.

In addition to dough, an art in which Italian pizza chefs are great masters, toppings are needed, and if these are made with "made in Italy" products, from tomatoes and their derivatives, to vegetables, aubergines, peppers, etc. you can be sure to enjoy a very high-quality pizza. Italian pizza chefs are very attentive to what happens in international gastronomy, they know the benefits of globalisation, but they also know that by choosing products with a short supply chain you have a series of guarantees. First of all, the closer the production area, the easier it is for the pizza chef to check it and control the products even during their development and therefore have safe, high and very high-quality products available. Preferring short chain products or, as many Italian pizza chefs active abroad do, working with products sent from home or from companies close to home to prepare pizzas in Paris, Stockholm, Edinburgh, Berlin, Boston and wherever they are abroad, is first of all an expression of a strong love for a food culture that has made Italy a real "land of plenty", but it is also the demonstration that there are no obstacles when you want to make delicious, high quality dishes or pizzas.

Botanical illustrations of some typical Italian ingredients: tomatoes, olives, artichokes and peppers

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BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

And Italy, from the Alps to Sicily and Sardinia, is a continuous succession of vineyards, olive groves, vegetable gardens, well-worked fields where the raw materials are produced to guarantee that cuisine that gourmets from all over the world appreciate and enhance, not only because it tastes good but also because it gives joy and serenity

to those who enjoy it.

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BY CATERINA VIANELLO

The Tomato,

It is one of the identifying products of Italian gastronomic history, with an extraordinary versatility in the kitchen, which allows it to be used - depending on the processing and the recipe - in pulp, puree, preserved, concentrated, peeled. We are obviously talking about the tomato, a very precious fruit whose origins take us back to the Central America of the Mayans and Aztecs.

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TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

There are innumerable varieties: more than 5000, different in shape (round, elongated, pear, cherry, ribbed, etc.), size and colour (red, yellow and green to black) and looking at the Italian context, many boast awards of excellence. They range from Campania’s PDO of San Marzano from the Sarnese-Nocerino countryside and the cherry tomato Piennolo of Vesuvius, to the imposing ribbed and beef steak from Tuscany and Piedmont, to the Slow Food presidia from Puglia, Sicily and Calabria. So here is a rundown on the best Italian tomatoes, to get to know them and better appreciate their characteristics.

TOMATO

SAN M ARZ AN O The PDO San Marzano from the Sarnese-Nocerino countryside is the undisputed king of tomato sauce. Grown in the provinces of Salerno, Naples and Avellino, it is the protagonist of the canning industry in terms of quality, an essential ingredient for Bolognese sauce, passata for pizza and other Neapolitan dishes. It has a sinuous shape, not perfectly regular and a pronounced apex: this is the so-called "lace", which makes 11 — it recognizable and distinguishes it from the "round" apex, of the classic Roma type. Only the canned product boasts the PDO mark: freshly picked San Marzano tomatoes cannot carry the PDO. The transformation must take place quickly and the ideal harvesting period is from mid-July to late September, for a total of 3, or 4 harvests at the most.

the King of Horticultural Products

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BY CATERINA VIANELLO

P I EN N OLO The large bunches that decorate the walls of the Neapolitan area are unmistakable: the Piennolo cherry tomato of Vesuvius is the other great PDO from Campania. It takes its name from the conservation technique, that of the piennolo, or the pendulum. The cherry tomatoes are harvested in the summer and tied together with circular hemp thread, thus forming a single large bunch that, through slow ripening, manages to remain perfectly fresh until the following spring. It has a leathery skin, which helps it to preserve well, and firm and compact pulp with a distinctly sweet flavour and a sour aftertaste. The Cilento yellow cherry tomato variant is golden. Whether red or yellow, it is very versatile in the kitchen: it is used in preserves, dips, bruschetta or salads. VI N E TOM ATO ES This is the typical Italian red tomato, from the vegetable garden, which can be grown both in greenhouses and in open fields and is perhaps the most versatile type of fruit in the kitchen. It is used on bruschetta, chopped raw on pasta dishes, pizzas and focaccias and excellent also in salads. Its skin is not too thick, its shape regular and the ripening period is usually from February to June.

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BA BY P LUM Small and oval in shape, it has a sweet and intense flavour, a firm and not too watery pulp, thin skin and has few seeds. It is the result of a cross breed of Asian origin, forms clusters in a herringbone pattern and keeps for a long time. Thanks to these characteristics, it soon entered the Italian market and found considerable popularity, especially for its versatility in the kitchen.

CHE RRY Small and spherical, it is cultivated in almost all regions, but has found its ideal environment in the south-east area of Sicily, where the climatic and environmental characteristics are more suitable. It develops its fruit in clusters: the pulp is juicy and the flavour very sweet. Undoubtedly the best-known variety is the Pachino PGI tomato, a variety that was introduced on the island as a selected cultivar by an Israeli multinational in the late 1980s.

TOMATO

RI B B ED COSTO LUTO TO M ATO Recognisable thanks to the folds that make the surface undulated, and its almost regular segments, the Costoluto has an intense colour and a very tasty and very consistent pulp. It can be used both as a component of fresh salads and in sauces. The most popular is the Florentine, but other well-known types are the ribbed tomato of Rotonda, a type from Basilicata with a sweet and fleshy pulp, the Sorrentine tomato, pink in colour and delicate in flavour and the wrinkled San Miniato from the province of Pisa, perfect for seasoning the typical panzanella.

B EEF ST E AK TOM ATO 13 — This is the gentle giant of the tomato family, due to its characteristic large and irregular shape. On average it is around 300g (10.5 oz), but can easily reach 800g (25 oz): it has a very fleshy and very tasty pulp, while the skin is smooth and thin. Among the most famous are the Tuscan bovaiolo, the Albenga tomato grown in the province of Savona and the pear tomato from Abruzzo. Thanks to the sweet taste and its texture, like freshly picked fruit to bite into, it is excellent raw in salads, on bruschetta and as a condiment.

Slices// Slices RO MA This is a fine variety for sauce, peeled and dried version. It is easy to grow because it is resistant and has vigorous and very productive growth. When harvested, the tomatoes have an elongated shape, with a thin skin and an average weight of 90-100 g (3 – 3.5 oz).

P I ZZUT E LLO The cultivation area of this “pointed” variety is precisely that — 14 around Vesuvius, very fertile and with very little irrigation; but it is also cultivated in lower Lazio, upper Calabria and Sicily. It has firm and fleshy pulp and makes it very good in purees and sauces. There are two names to note: Siccagno of the Bilìci valley, an area with an arid microclimate famous for the production of astrattu, tomato concentrate, and the pizzutello of the Ericine valleys, a typical product of the province of Trapani.

BY CATERINA VIANELLO

If those mentioned above are the best-known and most consumed types, there are, however, some rarities that are worth getting to know, preferably in their production areas. So here is a photograph of the most delicious niche tomatoes. The Queen of Torre Canne comes from Salento and is grown in front of the sea on brackish soils and owes its name to the "crown" formed by the peduncle. It is round, with a thick and resistant skin, excellent for seasoning focaccia and flavouring sauces. The Verneteca sannita, grown on the slopes of Vesuvius, is a very tasty cherry tomato with a flattened shape, pink pulp and a golden yellow skin. Then there is the Canestrino tomato of Lucca; a ribbed, basket-shaped, red tomato with a hint of green even when fully ripe and a very sweet taste. The Giallorosso of Crispiano is a round tomato from the province of Taranto with an orange-yellow colour, thick skin, herbaceous flavour and long preservation times. Then there is the Fiaschetto of Torre Guaceto, with its small size, oval shape and sweet flavour. It is an excellence of Brindisi and a Slow Food presidium. The Camone of Sardegna is round, smooth and streaked with green: very recognisable for its firm and crunchy pulp and the full taste that perfectly balances sweetness, acidity and flavour.

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SOLANIA

SOLANIA SRL: THE STORY OF A COMPANY, A PROJECT, A TOMATO Solania s.r.l, born from the entrepreneurial spirit of Giuseppe Napoletano, has been dominating the market for the production and processing of San Marzano DOP tomatoes, the company's flagship product, for 20 years. A product that has been a symbol of a land for centuries, that of Agro Sarnese-Nocerino, appreciated all over the world for its beneficial and organoleptic properties. The flavor, the result of a combination of climatic factors in addiction to a careful selection of raw materials and a transformation process still close to the artisanal one, is appreciated by experts, restaurateurs, pizza makers both in Italy and abroad. A unique product in flavor and appearance, protagonist of Mediterranean and non-Mediterranean tables, indispensable in the kitchens of chefs and restaurateurs: the San Marzano tomato is one of the main ingredients of Italian culture in the world, a symbol of quality and taste but above all of a specific cultural identity. And Solania dedicates heart and passion to the preservation of such a precious cultivar, trying to export its value as well by building communities of pizza makers and chefs by educating them in a daily and conscious use of an excellent product. By virtue of this reason, in fact, Giuseppe Napoletano presented “Il Mio San Marzano” project: an ambitious project thanks to which Pizza makers and restaurateurs will be able to choose the parcel of land and customize the label of the tin package with their logo, their image or other identifying mark. The project responds to the needs of the community of pizza makers and restaurateurs who want to identify themselves in a product and appreciate the control of the entire supply chain from sowing, from cultivation to transformation to distribution. The winner of the 50TopPizza 2020 ranking, Francesco Martucci, is the face and interpreter of this initiative. Solania Srl Tel. +39 081 9371027 | Fax +39 081 9371889 info@solaniasrl.it www.solaniasrl.it

Recently the company has added to its assorted catalog new references that are added to the traditional ones of San Marzano DOP packaged in 500g and 1000g aluminum cans, namely: red and yellow "pacchetelle", baked peeled tomatoes and dried tomatoes characterized by a simple but elegant packaging in glass. Tasty, delicate products 15 — with a notable presence of beneficial characteristics to be used as a topping for pizzas, to embellish appetizers and first courses.

Taste the difference

s ou lici De nd a shy fle

Baked peeled and dried tomatoes

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Francesco Martucci RECIPES

FRANCESCO MARTUCCI

“Everything comes from sacrifices, from enormous sacrifices… Those of a child who made his own pizza, those you choose to make with a long apprenticeship to reach your goals step by step. "You don't build pizza chefs at a table ... I dent my pizza every single day". The life of the pizza maker is certainly a life of sacrifices, in which you choose to dedicate yourself to others and in a certain sense also to cancel yourself out for others, to cancel yourself in your work, coming to merge with what you do and also to lose everything if you really love what you do. Awareness of all this can be the main ingredient in the recipe for success. Mine is a pizza with a great identity, in which there is a lot of "Francesco" and a respectful sense of belonging. It is a story that takes its cue from everything I live, eat, from my travels, my research and emotions. My pizza takes shape from my trying, venting, getting angry and the involvement of my lads. My pizza is science and heart together. I started like this: it was just me, my brother Sasà, my sister Sabina and my mother. At the time the pizzas were only take-away, but I had managed to reach my first, personally great goal. A place of my own where my experiments as a child before, and at entry level in other places later, had found meaning. From here began my research, of the ingredients, of the doughs, with precise measurements and all my heart. You must have the profession of the pizza maker in your DNA and I not only had it, but I had also started to really put it into practice.

12th January 2012 My work in the first pizzeria had brought me a lot of satisfaction, and it was starting to be really appreciated, which prompted me to make a qualitative leap. On this date I opened the restaurant in viale Lincoln n ° 7, driven by the desire to push myself further and better, to connect directly with customers that I could finally seat happily. It seated 70, and it filled my heart with joy to see the occupants fed and above all happy. 4 September 2017 And then Martucciland arrived. A dream come true, and I'm not talking about business. 320 m2 (3,444 sq ft) of kitchen in which every single centimeter is dedicated to the incessant research and transformation of the extraordinary raw materials that I have the honour of using. I was also able to dedicate a completely aseptic and isolated area to gluten free. Every comfort and detail comes from personal experience and direct contact with the customer that I have managed to cultivate over the years. Everything I have done, wherever I have been in life, has led me to be who I am and has influenced all the choices I have made, but I have always had a clear idea in my mind of the pivotal goal of my entire career, the purpose for which I get up every day and continue to study and make dough, research: my mission is to generate emotion.

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DOUGH:

TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

flour (W280 / 300 - 0) type 0 flour water

400 g (14.1 oz)

185 g (6.5 oz)

400 ml (14.07 fl oz UK/ 13.53 fl oz US)

brewer's yeast salt

Future of marinara

2 g (0.07 oz)

20 g (0.7 oz)

TOPPING: Cream of roasted tomato Wild garlic pesto Salina capers Slow Food Presidium Caiazzo olives Anchovies of Trapani Mountain oregano

Method Prepare the pre-dough (poolish) by placing 400g (14.1 oz) of flour (W280 / 300) in a bowl, 400 ml (14.07 fl oz UK/ 13.53 fl oz US) of water in another and 2 g (0.07 oz) of yeast. Dissolve the yeast in the water and pour in the flour. Knead counterclockwise until the lumps have disappeared. Everything must be a homogeneous cream. Cover the pre-dough with cling film and let it rest for 8 hours. The pre-dough must double. Add 185 g (6.5 oz) of type 0 flour and 20 g (0.7 oz) of salt to the pre-dough and work everything by hand. Begin to mix in a bowl and when it begins to be more elastic place it on a counter and continue to knead until its consistency becomes uniform, without lumps, smooth and elastic. Work it into a dough. Place the dough in a container, closed with cling film, and let it rise until it reaches double the initial volume. It will take 3 to 4 hours. Roll out the dough with a little flour and gently distribute the air that has formed in it, steam at a temperature of 100°C /212°F, then fry in hot oil, at a temperature of 180°C / 356°F. After cooking, spread the roasted tomato cream and put it in the oven at 380°C / 716°F. Complete with the olives, capers and anchovies. Method of roasted tomato cream Cut the cherry tomatoes in half, season them with salt, oregano and olive oil and cook at 130°C / 266°F for about 90 minutes.

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BY CATERINA VIANELLO

Artichokes of Italy:

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TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

The artichoke is one of the excellences of Italian agri-food, in its dozens of exquisite varieties, an expression of the geographical diversity of the regions of origin. Italy holds the world record in terms of artichoke production and the areas of greatest cultivation are Sicily, Sardinia and Puglia. Derived from wild thistle, the artichoke originates in the Near East and was introduced into Italy by the Arabs, in the central-southern areas, and by the Venetians for its farming in the lagoon. The name has Arabic origins, known as harsûfa, in Spanish alcachofa, and then artichoke.

ARTICHOKES

The varieties that are grown in Italy can be classified, on the basis of their agronomic-commercial characteristics, into two large groups: one autumnal, whose production continues until spring 19 — as far as May, after a winter lull, and one in spring, from February- March until May-June, cultivated in the coastal areas of central-northern Italy. Among the more than 90 varieties of artichoke cultivated in the world, the thorny varieties are distinguished from the unarmed ones, that is, without thorns.

discovering the best variety

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V IO L ET A RTI CHOK E OF SANT’ER ASMO The violet artichoke is a product of excellence from the island that has always been considered the vegetable garden of Venice, Sant’Erasmo, and expresses all the organoleptic richness of the lagoon in an absolutely unique sweetness and flavour. Tender, fleshy, not very thorny (less than all other Italian artichokes), elongated in shape, with dark violet bracts that enclose a heart with an unmistakable taste. The first artichokes, harvested in early April, are called castraure and are the apical fruit of the plant, which is harvested first to allow the development of another 18-20 lateral artichokes. Castraure are a sought-after rarity and have an original, slightly bitter taste and are very versatile in the kitchen, as well as having an inestimable organoleptic value.

BY CATERINA VIANELLO

PGI ARTI CHOKE OF BRI NDI SI The Brindisi artichoke is an Apulian excellence, known since the first half of 1700s (in 1773 the Abbot Vincenzo Corrado, of Oria, reports about fifteen recipes in which it is present). It stands out for the particular tenderness and flavour of the heads, due to the quantity of potassium present in the soil and the tuffaceous conformation of the Adriatic coast. It has compact, fleshy and tender bracts and a sweet taste that make it appreciated also for raw consumption. The production area includes the municipalities of Brindisi, Cellino San Marco, Mesagne, San Donaci, San Pietro Vernotico, Torchiarolo, San Vito dei Normanni and Carovigno. Harvesting begins on November 1st and ends on May 30th of the following year, according to regulations.

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PA E STU M A RTI CHOKE The Paestum Artichoke is produced in many municipalities in the province of Salerno and is one of the Romanesco group of artichokes, but stands out for its early harvest: it is in fact already on the market by February (the harvest ends on May 20th). It has tender and delicate flower heads and bracts. Round, compact and without thorns, it is large, has a sub-spherical shape and a pleasant taste. From statistical documents of the Kingdom of Naples it turns out that the artichoke has been present in the area since the nineteenth century: the development of the crop becomes more significant, however, in the 1930s, following land reclamation and transfor— 22 mation works. In the kitchen it is delicious when creamed and as a pie filling: the mastery of the Campania people, however, could not fail to pay homage to it by making it the main ingredient of a pizza.

BY CATERINA VIANELLO

RO M AN ART I CH OK E P GI Here it is, the violet one: it is one of the best-known types among the Italian varieties. It has a spherical, compact shape and is devoid of thorns: the external bracts are green with violet hues. It is harvested from February to May and is produced in the provinces of Viterbo, Rome and Latina (the municipalities are Montalto di Castro, Canino, Tarquinia, Allumiere, Tolfa, Civitavecchia, Santa Marinella, Campagnano, Cerveteri, Ladispoli, Fiumicino, Rome, Lariano, Sezze, Priverno, Sermoneta, Pontinia). Known since Roman times, the Romanesco or Roman artichoke has adapted to the soil and climatic conditions of Lazio, helped also by the optimal characteristics of the land where it is cultivated. In the kitchen, it has become one of the main ingredients of typical Roman cuisine: surely the dish that best celebrates its fleshiness and flavour is the Giudia-style artichoke, of Jewish origin. SP I N Y ART I CH OK E OF SARDI N I A P DO A pleasant taste, given by the balance between bitter and sweet, a green colour with ample violet-brownish shades, tender pulp and tightly pressed bracts are the main characteristics of the Sardinian Spiny artichoke. Produced in some municipalities in the provinces of Cagliari, Carbonia-Iglesias, Medio Campidano, Oristano, Nuoro, Ogliastra, Sassari, Olbia-Tempio, it has been present on the island for centuries. Although written evidence of it can be found in the second half of the eighteenth century, it is however with the first decades of the twentieth century that the island's artichoke undergoes the fundamental transition from a production intended for self-consumption to one

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TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

orientated towards national and international consumer markets, which determines its notoriety even outside Sardinia. The harvest runs from 1st September to 31st May. In the kitchen it is traditionally stewed in extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parsley and thyme. It also enriches sheep and goat meat dishes, pasta and rice dishes and soups. It is also excellent in oil. SP I N Y A RT I CHOKE F ROM ALBENGA Also known as the spiny violet of Liguria. Its ideal habitat is hilly or flat terrain with a mild climate; it does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature, which compromise the growth of the fruit. It is harvested from the beginning of November until the end of May. Do not confuse it with the other species of central and southern Italy: the flower head has a conical shape, dark green external leaves (bracts) with purple hues and yellowish thorns. It is less fibrous and has a more delicate flavour than the Sardinian variety: the leaves are extremely tender, crunchy and sweet, which make it appreciated even more when eaten raw. If you are a lover of savoury pies, the advice is to make it the main ingredient, alongside Swiss chard. SP I N Y A RT I CHOKE F ROM MENF I We have known of this since the 1800s, when the dedicated land extended at the time from the Carboj river to the current Mouth of Belìce Nature Reserve, a very fertile territory. It is an autumnal variety, with green bracts with violet hues. Its peculiarity is the large golden thorns for which in the past it was also known with the name of "spinel". Although the thorns are tricky in the

ARTICHOKES

kitchen, this does not, however, prevent the Menfi artichoke from being appreciated at the table. Aromatic, crunchy and delicate, it is highly sought after for grilling and for the production of pickles, caponata and paté. The harvest runs from the end of November to the end of April: the date that closes the season is traditionally May 1st, when the people of Memphi gather in the countryside to roast the last remaining artichokes on the embers of olive tree pruning or olive.

VI OL ET ART I CH OK E OF TU SCAN Y Violet colour and ovoid shape, its leaves are very dark on the outside and almost white on the inside. It is a characteristic that we also see in the 23 — consistency of the bracts; the external ones are very hard and leathery, and the internal ones are decidedly tender. Despite being appreciated beyond regional borders, over time the area cultivated with violet artichokes has decreased. Rather, make the most of a trip to Tuscany to taste it, in particular with pecorino and broad beans, a dish that pays homage to spring.

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BY DAVID MANDOLIN

Bologna Mortadella

Bologna Mortadella has an oval or cylindrical shape on the outside and must be compact and non-elastic in consistency. When cut, the surface must be velvety with a uniform bright pink colour and, in the slice, there must be no less than 15% of the total mass of pearly white squares of fatty tissue. The squares must be well distributed and adherent to the meat. The colour is uniform bright pink, while the smell has a typical aromatic scent; the flavour is typical and delicate with no traces of smokiness. The name mortadella dates back to Roman times. According to some sources, it derives from "Mortarium" (mortar), a tool used to crush pork, represented in a bas-relief of a funerary stone preserved in the archaeological museum of Bologna; other sources believe that the word comes from “Murtada” (piloted with myrtle, a typical plant of the Mediterranean scrub). In both cases, the production of mortadella can be located in an area of Roman influence that extends from Emilia Romagna to Lazio. The production area of Bologna Mortadella includes the territory of the following regions and provinces: Emilia Romagna, Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto, the province of Trento, Tuscany, Marche and Lazio.

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TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

The production technique of mortadella is extremely particular and unique all over the world: the start point is to use carefully selected meats (treated according to a European specification), for the lean part (pink in colour), striated-muscle meats are used, mostly obtained from the shoulder, among the noblest parts of the pig, which are shredded and reduced to a creamy emulsion through three different steps in special meat grinder machines. The cubes of fat are then prepared, which are mainly obtained from throat fat, the hardest and consequently the most valuable of fats. At this point, salt, black peppercorns, spices and natural flavours are added. Among these, at the discretion of the individual producer, there may be cinnamon, coriander, cloves, mace and nutmeg. It is precisely the combination of spices and their quantity that is decisive in defining the intensity of the mortadella aroma. The mixture thus obtained is stuffed to the desired size (there are mortadellas of all sizes: from a few grams to over 2 metric tons / 4400 lb) and cooked. This is the most delicate phase, giving the mortadella all its aroma and softness; the procedure involves the use of special dry air stoves, with cooking times ranging from a few hours to several days. This is followed by a cold-water shower and a time in the cooling cell which allows the product to "stabilise". The addition of polyphosphates, colouring agents and milk proteins is strictly prohibited.

BOLOGNA MORTADELLA

The fat content and the qualitative composition of Mortadella are perfectly in line with the most advanced trends of modern nutritional science. The amount of 27 — cholesterol is low (in 100 g /3.5 oz of mortadella there are 60-70 mg of cholesterol just like white meat considered lighter and more dietetic) and a limited amount of salt. Furthermore, mortadella is rich in minerals such as iron and zinc and for this reason, it is an ideal food for the physically active, who need a correct energy intake. The quality achieved in the choice of raw materials and processing techniques allows the production of mortadellas that are particularly suited to the needs of today's consumer. Thanks to the appropriate choice of meats and their processing under controlled temperature conditions, the presence of noble proteins is very high. Not to mention the vitamins. The maintenance of the normal vitamin content of the meat is not altered by the heat treatment used. In fact, 100 g /3.5 oz of mortadella contains vitamins B1 (0.24 mg), B2 (0.12 mg), Niacin (4.19 mg). And it's rich in minerals like iron and zinc.

BY DAVID MANDOLIN

From a nutritional point of view, the presence of fatty acids is balanced and above all consists mostly of the so-called "monounsaturated fatty acids", the best for the human body (they are the same as those contained in olive oil). This means reducing the amount of fat and therefore energy; compared to about 350 kilocalories per 100 g /3.5 oz of a traditional mortadella, today mortadellas are produced which have about 288 kilocalories, less than a plate of plain pasta and the same calories as fiordilatte mozzarella. Today a good mortadella has about 60/70 milligrams of cholesterol per 100 g /3.5 oz, therefore like the lightest and most dietetic white meat. Maintenance of the normal vitamin content of meat, not altered by a violent heat treatment. 100 g /3.5 oz — 28 of mortadella contains Vitamins B1 (0.24 mg), B2 (0.12 mg).

Edible Part

Protein

100%

15,7%

Fat s

Sat urated fat ty acids

25%

8,26 %

Mono unsaturated fatty acids

Po lyunsat urated acids

12,06%

3,34%

Cho lestero l

Energy

72 mg

288 kcal

Table of nutritional values source CREA September 2011

T H E PGI DE N OMI N ATION

THE MORTADELLA BOLOGNA CONSORTIUM

The "PGI" (Protected Geographical Indication) logo identifies a product originating in a specific region and town, whose quality, reputation and characteristics can be traced back to its geographical origin and of which at least one stage of production, transformation or processing, takes place in the delimited area.

The Mortadella Bologna Consortium, established in 2001, aims to protect and promote the Bologna Mortadella PGI. The Consortium, in collaboration with the Ministry for Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies, promotes Bologna Mortadella PGI and carries out activities to combat imitations and counterfeits.

This community recognition constitutes a valid guarantee for the consumer who, by purchasing products marked with the PGI “mark”, knows that they are buying quality food, which must meet certain requirements and is made in compliance with specific regulations. On the other hand, European recognition also protects producers against any imitations and unfair competitors (agro-piracy).

Currently, the Bologna Mortadella Consortium brings together 27 companies that produce about 95% of all Bologna Mortadella PGI.

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Slices// Slices

RECIPES

Filomena Palmieri

—

Filomena Palmieri is a sure expert of Italian food excellence, ambassador of pizza for Slow Food as well as a passionate artisan. She also lives her daily professional role as an opportunity to educate, spreading the importance of eating in a healthy and balanced way: she is a real ﬁghter in defense of the true Made in Italy. The pizzeria Da Filomena was created by Filomena Palmieri who, together with her husband Massimo Di Gaetani, continued a family history that has always been in the restaurant context. For some years she has supported her son Giuseppe Di Gaetani in accompanying the family in promoting territorial identities through pizza and other baked products.

FILOMENA PALMIERI

SLICES/02

TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

DOUGH: 0 flour with wheat germ

Terra Mia

1 kg (2 lb 3.3 oz)

MY LAND

80% hydration grams of dehydrated yeast salt oil

20g (0.7 oz) 10g (0.35 oz)

TOPPING: potatoes from Sila

2g (0.07oz)

fresh artichokes sautéed with garlic, oil and parsley stretched bacon of black Calabrian pork Caciotta from Sila bergamot extra virgin olive oil parsley

It is a pizza with potatoes from Sila (an area of the Italian region Calabria), fresh artichokes sautéed with garlic, oil and parsley, stretched bacon of black Calabrian pork, Caciotta from Sila, bergamot and extra virgin olive oil, parsley. Once the dough is completed, it is removed from the fridge and the loaves of the desired weight are cut according to the pan available. The loaf is leavened for 5 to 6 hours. We proceed to spread the dough with the help of ground semolina and then top it. First potatoes and artichokes and a little caciotta. Once cooked, top with the black bacon, a little grated bergamot, extra virgin olive oil and parsley.

P E

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BY VIRGILIO PRONZATI

ORI GI N S

Pesto 32

Pesto is one of the most popular and widely found sauces in the world. It has held an important position over the last twenty years, at the expense of others, including some of the historical and well-known original sauces. In fact, the quality of life has improved not only in our country and, with it, eating habits have obviously changed, with the appearance of more quickly prepared, low fat and low-calorie dishes. So, to meet current needs, sauces, too, have obviously changed, deriving not only from fish bases but also from plant bases, thus favouring pesto. Pesto is a cold sauce, (almost totally plant based) and became a symbol of Genoa as it derives from the ancient agliata (aggiadda in Genoese), the first of the 6 classic mortar sauces dating back to 1200. At the end of this long journey that lasted little more than six centuries, in the first decades of the nineteenth century, by adding basil and cheeses to the garlic, olive oil and salt, and removing the vinegar, pesto was born. TH E RECI P E FOR P ESTO Doses and ingredients for 1 kg (2 lb 3.274 oz) of Pesto: 30% PDO Genoese Basil (fresh leaves of young plants); 25% PDO Parmesan Cheese aged 36 months, grated at the time; 5% PDO Pecorino Sardo aged 15 months, grated at the time; 10% first choice pine nuts from Pisa; 2-3% garlic from Vessalico; 1.5-2% coarse sea salt; 23-25% PDO Ligurian Riviera extra virgin olive oil (sweet and mature).

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TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

Preparation: remove the basil leaves from the young plants, wash them and let them dry on absorbent paper or in a spinner, being careful not to crush them. Place the peeled garlic in the mortar, pound it with a boxwood or ash pestle until it is reduced to a pulp and do the same with the pine nuts. Add the basil and the salt and mash - without pounding - for a long time, swirling, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Add the cheeses and, still stirring, incorporate the oil in gradually. If the pesto is too thick, dilute it with a spoonful of hot pasta water. It is typical in several first courses of fresh and dried pasta from the Genoese and Ligurian cuisine, such as trenette, lasagne, gnocchi, troffiette and, last but not least, the classic minestrone. Warning: the leaves must be dried but not be creased in any way, because the vesicles containing the essential oils on the top page of the leaf, if they break, cause an oxidation of the colour and aromas, firstly turning the pesto pale green-brown or dark green, and then with green-black notes, with a purely herbaceous aroma. Pesto made with an electric whisk, apart from the fact that it is an emulsified sauce similar to a cream, is partly oxidised by the heat from by the high speed so quadruples the spicy effect of the garlic. The mortar was and must remain a kitchen tool, since garlic crushed in a mortar does not heat up; in addition, the salt put together with the basil leaves, under the rotating action of the pestle, finely chops them and, as

PESTO

salt is hydroscopic, it slows down their oxidation. As pine nuts were an addition made towards the end of the 1800s, they are an optional. On the other hand, garlic is mandatory and is in perfect harmony with Genoese basil. May whoever removes the garlic (God forbid) have the honesty not to call it pesto anymore, but rather basil 33 — sauce. Finally, why does the oil have to be mature and sweet? Simple: the oil acts not only as a solvent for the aromatic substances, but is also the perfect amalgam, enhancing the aroma of the basil and attenuating the spiciness of the garlic. RO YAL B AS I L It is called Baxaicò and Baxeicò in dialect and commonly “basil” (from the Latin basilicum), its real botanical name is “Ocimum basilicum”, derived from the Greek òkimon = basil and basileus = king: that is to say royal herb. In ancient times in Greece, it was cultivated in pots as an ornamental plant, as it was by the Arabs, but also for its healing virtues. In India it was considered a sacred plant. Many of its species are used in both cosmetics and med-

BY VIRGILIO PRONZATI

icine. Only in Liguria was it already used in the kitchen. The varieties of basil grown in Liguria and belonging to the Typica variety are mainly: giant Genoese basil, dwarf Genoese basil and common Genoese basil. The characteristic aromas come from the essential oils contained in the vesicles of the upper page of the leaf: estragon max 87%, linalool max 75%, eugenol max 20%, tannins max 6%, acid saponin, monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, phenylpropanes, flavonoids, caffeic acid and esculoside. The areas of greatest production in Liguria are in open fields in the province of La Spezia, in particular in the Sarzana area and, to a lesser extent, in Albenga and Andora in the Savona area, with about 240 hectares. On the other hand it is cultivated in greenhouses in the province of Savona with — 34 Albenga, and Genoa and Imperia to a lesser extent, with over 180 hectares. The best production area for basil in the Genoese area is the Prà delegation, the real “cru” of Genoese basil. In 2005 it obtained the PDO mark. G E N OV E SE B ASI L BEYOND PESTO Although cultivated in our country for centuries, basil has not managed to spread in nature. Originally from the hot states of Asia, it is currently cultivated extensively in France, Egypt, Morocco, Greece, Israel, Indonesia, in many states of the USA and in some of South America as well as in Italy. The different cultivars have different phenological characteristics and even more different aromatic ones. Many cultivars have bullous and large leaves, but the

prized ones have small leaves. Their size also varies according to the age of the basil plant. The leaves of young plants with green stems are ideal. If partially lignified, in addition to their size, the leaves have a dark green colour, a pungent scent and a slightly bitter taste due to the slight tannic perception. Therefore, the basil leaves to be used in a salad, an aspic or in a cold sauce must be from young plants and picked just before their use. For hot dishes: appetizers, first and second courses and pizzas, the young basil leaves must be dutifully added a moment before serving. The heat of cooking both in the pan and in the oven irreparably destroys the aromaticity and crunchiness of the basil. It is no coincidence that Pesto is a cold sauce.

CONFORME H.A.C.C.P.

So, the best basil to use to make dishes and pizzas is only that of fresh and young plants. Greatly produced in the summer in open fields, basil is also available to a lesser extent in the winter, as it is grown in greenhouses. Greenhouse cultivation all year round gives the best product, not only preserving it from the cold, but also from the heat. Grown in an open field, if the temperature rises above 30 ° C (86°F), the oxidation of colouring and aromatic substances occurs. If used to make pesto, it will initially have a yellow-brown colour which, after a few minutes, will become a deep green tending to black.

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If the basil plants have lignified stems, the leaves can be used to make a green sauce for mixed boiled meats and fish, or crushed with garlic and put in soups. Lastly, they can be made into a basil soup served with croutons and seasoned with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

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Slices// Slices

RECIPES

Marco Montuori

—

MARCO MONTUORI

Marco Montuori, a young pizza chef from Anzio, specialised in the Pinsa, a relatively recent product on the Lazio baked art scene, but which has quickly spread around the world due to its versatility. “I have always loved cooking, already at the age of 14 when I came back from school I prepared my lunch by myself, my parents worked and I managed my ﬁrst dishes at home. In that same year I started working as a waiter in Anzio, the city where I grew up. At the restaurant I was the last to arrive and the youngest, obviously the older and more experienced waiters "took advantage". This is where my love started: while I waited for the pizzas to be baked, I was enchanted by watching the pizza chef at work in front of the ﬂame of the wood-burning oven. After graduation I moved to Rome, I began to seriously study the subject while in the meantime I worked as a pizza chef to pay for my studies; at 22 I started teaching in my spare time to anyone who asked me and it temporarily became a second job.

This is how I came into contact with the Pinsa for the first time and it was "love at first sight"! I began to teach the making of the Pinsa Romana privately, coming into contact with great contexts, following large projects, especially abroad. In 2016 I created a fixed teaching base in Rome, and thus Pinsa School was born: my intent was to create the first exclusive school for teaching the Pinsa Romana and it has met with enormous success.

E Pinsa SLICES/02

TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

DOUGH: Pinsa Romana flour cold water dry yeast salt

1 kg (2 lb 3.3 oz)

800 ml (28.2 UK fl oz, 27.1 US fl oz) 3 g (0.1 oz)

20 g (0.7 oz)

extra virgin olive oil

20 g (0.7 oz)

TOPPING: burrata stracciatella toasted walnuts salt extra virgin olive oil spicy paprika

It is important to finish the dough at about 22°C / 72°F and let it rise before putting it in the fridge in bulk until at least the next day. It can be left to mature up to 96 hours without problems, it is a strong flour and holds leavening very well. Once the dough has matured it should be sliced into 250g (8.8 oz) balls which will be left to rise until doubled. They will be spread out delicately, topped with a mousse of peas and Roman mint and put in the oven. After cooking, top with aubergines, I cooked them previously by baking them in a pan in the pizza oven, simply with salt and oil. We conclude the topping with burrata stracciatella, toasted walnuts, salt, extra virgin olive oil and spicy paprika.

37 —

Slices// Slices

—

BY MARISA CAMMARANO

Crispy peppers 38

Set aside the xenophilic ideologies related to the hottest peppers in the world and think of an ingredient that is extremely versatile in the kitchen: the crispy pepper (zafaran 'crusk in dialect), a typical product of many areas of Basilicata. It is a sweet red pepper that is dried and then fried for a few seconds in extra virgin olive oil: the temperature change causes the vegetable to become "crusco", that is, crisp. The pepper cooked in this way can be used as a side dish or as a snack, or as an ingredient in other typical dishes of the region, such as Basilicata salt cod, strascinate (orecchiette) with turnip greens and crisp peppers, Calabrian crushed olives or, especially in Calabria, in sautéed fresh vegetables such as turnip tops or escarole. Crispy peppers are traditionally used in many areas around Potenza and the Mat-

era hills, between the two provinces and in many towns located in the Pollino Park, but they were absolutely unknown in the strictly typical cuisine of Matera until about fifteen years ago, when they became one of the first products from Basilicata to receive the PGI designation, so obtained the attention of the general public and even earned the nickname of "Basilicata’s red gold". The flourishing of dishes based on crispy pepper, found in all the restaurants in Matera and presented as typical, is therefore not an authentic phenomenon, but only an "appropriation" of other people's traditions. The Matera area is, in fact, characterised by isolated villages that rise on the top of high hills, with roads that are difficult to travel and this results in cultural isolation that is often reflected in the strong diversity of dialects that sound incomprehensi-

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TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

ble to each other even in villages a stone's throw away as the crow flies. This diversity is also evident in the gastronomy which presents very different names and typical dishes even in neighbouring villages a few kilometres away. Today, however, the crispy pepper can be considered a sort of cultural and gastronomic identity for the whole of Basilicata, at least as much as the hot pepper is for Calabria. Yet the pepper was not born here. The tradition of the crispy pepper comes from afar. As with all peppers, it reached Italy after the discovery of the Americas, around the sixteenth century. Coming from the Americas (Antilles), the 'Capsicum annuum' of the Solanaceae family arrived in Europe at the end of the sixteenth century, thanks to the adventure of Christopher Columbus. It is said that his ship's doctor, Chanca of Seville, stowed a lot of sweet and spicy peppers in one of the caravels, soon discovering their medical, chemical, as well as gastronomic virtues. When we talk about crispy pepper, we are talking about authentic, healthy, natural goodness, in which the hand of man has brought out the best. Crispy peppers are recognised to be an Italian traditional agri-food product (PAT). The Senise pepper, on the other hand, is an IGP vegetable linked to some areas of Basilicata, but it, too, can become a crispy pepper. The crispy pepper is a conical-shaped sweet, red pepper which is preserved in a very particular way. The pepper, to become crispy, is subjected to a thermal shock: it is fried for a few seconds in extra virgin olive oil, taking care not to burn it. As soon as it is drained, it will not be crunchy yet but soft: it becomes crisp and crunchy like a potato

PEPPERS

chip only when it cools. The colour 39 — must be bright burgundy red, if it takes on a more purplish shade it is to be thrown away because it becomes bitter. The trick used by grandmothers to carry out this operation, which also adds a pleasant aroma, is to put a clove of garlic in the oil when it’s cold, and when the garlic is light golden it means that the oil has reached the ideal temperature for frying the crispy pepper, at which point the flame can be turned off and the pepper can be cooked using the heat reached at that time. If, once cold, the pepper does not crumble immediately under pressure, repeat the frying operation very briefly and then, if desired, it can be frozen. Planted between February and March, it is harvested in early August when it turns an intense purple red. Hanging from windows and balconies, and woven together with needle and thread by the stems, the peppers form long chains that, with that bright red colour, seem there almost to embellish the houses, rather than dry in the sun. Peppers in Basilicata are also called

Slices// Slices

BY MARISA CAMMARANO

Mineral Salts

Nutritional Values

Vitamins

Calcium 71.6 mg

Humidity 9.3%

A 0.21 mg

Fibre 19%

C 48.7mg

Protein 1.40%

B1 0.14 mg

Iron 3.27 mg Sodium 6.86 mg Phosphorus 64.8 g Zinc 1.4 mg

'zafaran', perhaps because the colour of dried peppers reduced to powder is reminiscent of saffron. In fact, it is also said that here, as in other areas of the south, peppers and chillies have taken the place of saffron because, with a small quantity, they flavour and colour food. — 40 Every alley, street or terrace of Basilicata is adorned with long and folkloric red pepper chains, also known as “serte” that can be bought from local greengrocers, from early autumn onwards, for a price of around €30/ £26 / $36 per kg (2.2 lb). Until a few years ago, cultivation was relegated to domestic use but with the commercial spread it has become a good source of income for local producers, who increase production every year in the effort to meet demand. The product has a limited availability for sale, and you have to stock it up as soon as it comes on the market because it soon ends. In addition to goodness and versatility in the kitchen, crispy peppers also boast excellent nutritional properties. Therefore, on a nutritional level, the crispy pepper has a vitamin C content of 30% more than the other types of pepper, and a very high content of vitamins A, E, K and PP.

Carbohydrates 15% Energy 527.4 KJ(128Kal)

Peppers, therefore, in addition to being very tasty, detox the body, are diuretic and have antioxidant properties, thanks to the high content of vitamin C and beta-carotene, useful for preventing damage from free radicals. They also prevent cardiovascular diseases and strengthen blood vessels while the presence of flavonoids and capsaicin prevents the accumulation of bad cholesterol (LDL) in the blood. They protect the brain: they contain luteolin, a substance that is also contained in fennel and celery and which can protect brain cells by slowing down aging, thus improving memory.

EASY TO USE VERSATILE MENU OPTIONS ENERGY EFFICIENT

Slices// Slices

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BY MARISA CAMMARANO

Friarielli, The famous Neapolitan "broccoli rabe" is an ancient speciality of tradition that knows no rivals. The Friarielli have a very ancient origin and a very interesting history concerning the hungry Neapolitan people, who, in many ancient texts, are referred to as "leaf eaters". Well, the elederly women, not having financial means, went to the royal palace and waited for the court cooks, the Monsù, to throw the kitchen leftovers or scraps that they did not consider suitable for the mouths of the nobles from the balcony, among them the broccoli rabe. Never had such a noble dish had such proletarian roots. Many recipes of Neapolitan cuisine, of poor origins, started here and then became the staples of our gastronomic culture. The broccoli rabe is, in fact, a real must of Campania cuisine, a region that boasts numerous recipes with this simple but involving treat. Behind this

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TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

strange word, often confused with friggitelli, which are sweet green peppers, friarielli are nothing but tender and tasty turnip greens, lightly fried with oil, garlic and chilli. Going to lunch or dinner in Neapolitan trattorias, when in season, you will always find the broccoli rabe, nice and green with chilli pepper, with sausages, in a filled pizza or as a simple side dish and, as they say in Naples, by eating them you will "recreate" (i.e. to be so satisfied that the body regenerates, is reborn, "s'arrecrea"). In Naples, the friarielli are bought "in bundles" ('o fasc' 'e friariell') and, if you go around the market or the greengrocers, the price of the bundles is written, not that of the broccoli rabe by weight. The bundles will be seen tied with a string, placed in boxes. Many now also sell them already cleaned to facilitate those who do not like to clean them or who do not have much time. Broccoli rabe is a type of vegetable with a slightly bitter taste, but if you want to reduce the intense flavour of turnip greens, just steam it for about 10 minutes before putting it in a pan with garlic and chilli. Steaming, or cooking in a pot with boiling water, will dampen that slightly

FRIARIELLI

bitter taste, a characteristic that should actually be remembered as a precious ally for the body, as an excellent liver and gastric detox. Broccoli rabe, despite its simplicity, is a type of vegetable that grows almost exclusively in Campania and it is hard to find it elsewhere. The places where it is most cultivated are the innermost 45 — ones of this region, namely in the area around Naples, in the Nocerino-Sarnese countryside and in the Sele plain, in Salerno, as well as in the Apennine belt between Avellino and Benevento. In Rome it is known as broccoli, because of its close resemblance to broccoli, in Tuscany as rapini, in Valdichiana as pulezze while further down in the boot, precisely in Puglia, it is known as turnip greens and in Calabria as broccoli

a Typical Neapolitan Excellence

Slices// Slices

turnip. Finally, in the United States, it goes by the name of broccoli rabe. Regardless of the more or less healthy combinations and preparation, it should be emphasized that this vegetable, in addition to its unmistakable flavour and slightly bitter aftertaste, boasts remarkable nutritional properties. It is, firstly, very rich in mineral salts, in particular iron, phosphorus, potassium and magnesium, but, above all, calcium, in greater quantities than milk. It also contains vitamins of groups A and C, few calories and a lot of fibre. It is also cholesterol-free and guarantees a high intake of beta carotene, a precursor of vitamin A (retinol), and — 46 antioxidants. Its consumption is, therefore, recommended in cases of anaemia, during pregnancy and for those suffering from high cholesterol. It is also an excellent ally for skin and muscle health, eyesight, the immune system and during growth because it acts on the metabolism of iron. Broccoli rabe is a rich source of iron, folic acid, calcium and vitamins A, B2 and C although the quantities differ greatly according to the soil, the fertiliser used and the climate. In addition, the presence of chlorophyll and magnesium help maintain a good mood and relieve stress. Broccoli rabe also contains a lot of antioxidants which help prevent cancer. As you can see, it is very healthy, except for those suffering from hyperuricemia and / or gout, as it contains a lot of purines. Even though it is a winter vegetable, it can be enjoyed all year round thanks to the variant in oil that allows for a long shelf life and therefore respects the concept of seasonality.

BY MARISA CAMMARANO

ENERGY

29 kcal/122 kJ

Edible part

100

Water

90.9

Protein

3.1

Fat

0.3

Saturated fat

Carbohydrates

2.1

Sugar

2.1

Total fibre

3.1

Salt

Calcium

Iron

1.1

Vitamin A

203

Vitamin C

HEALTH COMBINATIONS: • Diuresis: boiled turnip greens + apple vinegar; • Boost immune system: boiled turnip greens + yogurt; • Anaemia: turnip greens + lemon juice; Stomach upset: turnip greens + ginger tea; • Antioxidant properties: turnip greens + extra virgin olive oil; • Winter ailments: turnip greens + chilli + garlic; • Detox: turnip greens + chicory and its tips.

Today like yesterday since 1967.

1965 is an important date for the Torrente family. Giuseppe’s dream is finally realized and this led to what was to become one of the most important names in the canned food industriy of southern Italy. Over the years we have been committed to being close to families and professionals in the sector offering certified quality products. Our S. Marzano tomatoes from the Agro-Sarnese-Nocerino PDO are preserved with great care, processed within 24 hours after harvesting to save the fragrance of the tomato from the lands of the Campania and Puglia regions. Red gems rich in sun, unpeeled with the traditional process of steam blanching in boiling water and immersed in their juice, they fill the air with their fragrance every time you open a jar of La Torrente Peeled Tomatoes. Made with whole, fleshy and low water content tomatoes, they are ready to be dipped into any recipe bringing the flavor of summer to every season.

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www.latorrente.com - info@latorrente.it

Slices// Slices

RECIPES

Renato Bosco

—

Pizza Pane and Passione are the three "P's" that accompany the histrionic personality of Renato Bosco. With Pizza he began - at a very young age - to learn about flour, then returned to Pane (bread), the pizza’s ancestral food, and finally, thanks to his Passion, he arrived at the "point of no return" in which he not only discovered desserts, but he couldn’t help unleashing his curiosity that constantly pushes him to search for something innovative in the world of pizza and leavened products. His research spirit is what has pushed him over the years to deal with all the sectors that revolve around leavened products and to deepen the many issues relating to bakery and pastry following courses with authoritative figures on an international level.

He is the pioneer pizza maker who crosses the territory of the pizzeria and lands in the world of Panettone. Bosco is among the first to promote leavened desserts with live sourdough to be enjoyed all year round, filled with the fruit that the season offers. He has been Ambassador of Italian Cuisine in the World since 2015 and participates, as an advisor, in the project for the promotion, training and spreading of Italian cuisine in the world.

RENATO BOSCO

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PRE-DOUGH: type 0 flour 100 g (3.5 oz)

Pizza in a pan

TOPPINGS, INGREDIENTS AND SPECIALITIES

water 50 ml (1.76 uk fl oz, 1.69 us fl oz)

compressed yeast (brewer’s) 1 g (0.035 oz) DOUGH: All of the pre-dough flour 330 w 500 g (17.63 oz) water 400 ml (14.1 uk fl oz, 13.5 us fl oz) salt 12 g (0.42 oz) extra virgin olive oil 12 g (0.42 oz) malt 2.5 g (0.088 oz) compressed yeast 1 g (0.035 oz) TOPPING:: burrata green asparagus celery fennel carrots radishes strawberries extra virgin olive oil, salt, black pepper

Preparation of the pre-dough: Combine the ingredients in the mixer and knead for a few minutes: the predough must be a loose dough. Let it rest in a previously greased container for 16-18 hours at a temperature of 18-20 ° C (64.4°F – 68°F) Preparation of the dough: After this time, put the flour, malt and 300 ml (10.55 uk fl oz – 10.14 us fl oz) of water in the mixer, add the pre-dough and start mixing at the first speed; add the crumbled yeast to form the gluten, then add the salt, the remaining water and slowly the oil and mix now at the second speed. Form the dough into a single smooth mass and let it rest in a specific, previously greased, plastic container for 30 minutes. After the resting time has passed, form the balls of the desired weight and let them rest for 4-6 hours at room temperature, then roll out the dough in a 30x40 cm (12” – 16”) greased baking pan. Preparation of the topping: Steam the green asparagus and fennel, cut them into small pieces and season with salt, extra virgin olive oil and pepper. Cut the radishes into thin slices and create carrot sheets with the potato peeler. Cut the celery and strawberries into small pieces. Cooking and topping: Add some oil over the base and let it rise again for about an hour. Bake at 240-260 ° C (464°F – 500°F) for about 10 minutes. Top with burrata, cooked and raw vegetables and some slices of strawberries. Top it all off with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

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BY EDITORIAL STAFF

Olive Oil The olive tree, a very ancient plant, has always been the symbol of abundance, glory and peace. This tree has always been considered sacred and the oil obtained from its fruit was used not only as food but also for religious purposes; moreover the Egyptians considered it a gift from God, the Phoenicians spread its use through trade, challenging it as "liquid gold", the Greeks and Romans used it for medical treatments and as fuel for votive lamps, the Jews used it to oil the their kings, Christians used it for the most significant rituals. According to the food tradition, olive oil is one of the most important products of Mediterranean agriculture, of undoubted nutritional value both for its chemical composition and for its organoleptic features enhanced by its use as a condiment.

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OLIVE OIL

The fruit is a drupe of variable size and shape, depending on its cultivar and the climatic conditions of its cultivation site. Extra virgin olive oil is the product obtained by pressing the olives through mechanical processes and this characteristic makes it a real, natural food and with unique aromatic and taste characteristics. There are many types, the most excellent olive oil is "extra virgin olive oil" and this product is obtained when using high quality olives, which are taken to the mill immediately after harvesting and processed with care. Based on its degree of acidity and purity, different categories of oil can be obtained:

51 — E X TRA VIRG IN OLIVE OIL Extra virgin olive oil is the only vegetable oil obtained only by pressure, without manipulations or chemicals, unlike seed oil (soy, peanut, sunflower, etc.). It contains vitamins E, A, K, D, which all have antioxidant properties and a protective effect on the body's cells. It has an acidity level of 0.8%.

VIRGI N O L I VE OI L The degree of acidity is almost 2% and, as regards the extra virgin, it is not refined. OL I VE O I L It consists of refined olive oil to which virgin olive oil is added to improve its taste. The maximum degree of acidity is 1.5%.

P O M ACE OI L It has a maximum degree of acidity of 1.5% and is produced with pomace and extra virgin olive oil.

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BY EDITORIAL STAFF

each growing area. It is not only easy to digest and absorb, but it also aids in digestion. T H E DI GEST I B I L I T Y O F EX T RA VI RGI N OL I VE O I L

B E N E F ITS OF OLI V E OIL FO R T H E DI GE ST I V E SYSTEM

Extra virgin olive oil, both raw and heated, is the most recommended fat for nutrition, not only for its aroma and flavour, but because, unlike all other edible oils, it is mainly made up of monounsaturated fatty acids, with the right content of linoleic fatty acids, polyphenols, vitamin E and — 52 beta carotene. The presence of all these antioxidant elements makes extra virgin olive oil particularly important for our health. A type of diet rich in animal fats increases the amount of cholesterol in the blood, one of the highest risk factors in cardiovascular diseases, and vegetable oils have a protective action in this sense. With hindsight we can say that in particular extra virgin olive oil has, compared to other vegetable oils, positive effects on health. Extra virgin olive oil is used as an antioxidant and anti-radical: the presence of tocopherol and polyphenol gives extra virgin olive oil an important role in the antioxidant and anti-radical activity limiting cell aging. It contains fatty acids similar to those present in the body and a high quantity of vitamins. It defends the body from skin alterations, digestive problems and cellular aging phenomena and helps improve the body's well-being and quality of life. Olive oil has exceptional qualities that vary according to

Another important role played by the oil, which everyone can appreciate, is certainly the particular fragrance it gives to dishes, increasing the palatability of food and favouring secretory-digestive stimuli, thus inducing better digestibility. Foods prepared with extra virgin olive oil have excellent gastric and intestinal tolerance. In fact, olive oil protects mucous membranes and prevents the effects of hyperchlorhydria, thus reducing the risk of gastric and duodenal ulcers. It acts as a laxative, more effective fast, and helps correct chronic constipation. It stimulates the gallbladder and inhibits the secretion of bile. It also has a protective effect against the formation of gallstones, due to the activation of bile flow and to the increase of high-density lipoprotein (HDL). The incidence of biliary lithiasis is lower in regions with high consumption of extra virgin olive oil. Therapeutic aspects of extra virgin olive oil: Due to its composition, extra virgin olive oil has a safe protective effect on the arteries, stomach and liver. In recent years it has been recognised that a diet rich in monounsaturated (oleic) fatty acids helps people with diabetes, by reducing blood glucose levels, helps decrease blood pressure, both diastolic (maximum) and systolic (minimum), decreases the secretion of gastric acid from the small intestine, which is important for those suffering from ulcers (stomach or duodenum) or dyspepsia by improving the emptying of the gallbladder; preventing the formation of stones, producing less secretion activity from the pancreas, which is important in diseases such as pancreatitis.

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BY MARISA CAMMARANO

Calabrese ‘Nduja

'Nduja, or more simply "Duja", is a cured meat with a creamy consistency which, with its strong and decisive flavour, has now become one of the symbols of Calabria. The original 'nduja is produced in the territory of Vibo Valentia, mainly in the area of Spilinga, a territory that thrives on agriculture, livestock and pastoralism. The origin of the name is to be found in the Latin term "inducere", that is to introduce, the same from which the name of some Piedmontese cured meats, called "salam dla doja" and of the French "andouille", a particular smoked pork sausage derives. Some, in fact, trace its introduction in Calabria to

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the French of the Napoleonic period (18061815), others, however, believe that it was the Spaniards, in the sixteenth century, who brought this particular salami together with chilli. An all-Calabrian specialty therefore, with unclear origins, as happens for many dishes of peasant cuisine. The only certain thing is that it is a product born from the need of the farmers not to waste anything of the pig. As per Calabrian tradition, today 'nduja is usually produced during the winter months with the fattest parts of the pig, such as jowl, bacon and lard, which are chopped and then mixed together with an abundant quantity of Calabrian spicy chilli, (usually 1 kg /2.2 lb of chilli pepper is mixed in every 2 kg / 4.4 lb of meat) with a percentage of salt of about 3% of the total. In addition to giving the meat a well-defined red colour, the chili pepper allows it to be kept for a long time; its antiseptic properties mean that 'nduja does not, in fact, need any preservatives, thus making it a 100% natural and genuine product. Many of the nutritional and beneficial properties of 'nduja come from the chilli, which can become a valuable ally of the digestive and circulatory system. Once the mixture takes on a sufficiently homogeneous and creamy consistency, it is stuffed into the natural intestine known as the pig's orba and then lightly smoked with aromatic herbs. Finally, it is left to mature in a completely natural way for a minimum of three months, up to a maximum of six. There are various ways in which 'Nduja is served. In fact, it is a very versatile pâté that can be used in domestic and everyday contexts, but also in elegant

'NDUJA

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dinners or tastings with fine wines and oils. A classic is certainly spreading it on slices of toasted, preferably still warm, bread. However, it can also be used, perhaps together with garlic, for sautéing, as a base for a Bolognese or a simple tomato sauce. Not only that, 'Nduja is also excellent to accompany semi-aged cheeses, to fill omelettes and to garnish pizza. A cured meat with a strong taste, in short, but which allows a myriad of combinations and ways to taste it. The main nutritional properties of 'nduja, as already mentioned, derive from the presence of chilli. The latter is, in fact, rich in vitamins A, C, E, K — 56 and B group, in addition to mineral salts such as potassium, copper and lecithin. Thanks to these nutrients it increases resistance to infections, fights diarrhoea and improves blood circulation. Each teaspoon of 'nduja contains 77 kcal (512 Kcal per 100g/3.5 oz), 7.57 g /0.27 oz of fat, 0.33g/ 0.01 oz of carbohydrates and 1.84 g /0.06 oz of protein. There are some tricks to combat its spiciness: unsurprisingly, recipes based on spicy ingredients are often combined with fatty products such as cheese. Cheese, for example, can cushion the strength of a very spicy food, making it more bearable. Casein, the milk protein, helps to counteract the effects of capsaicin (the spicy molecule of chili pepper) on nerve receptors, thus relieving the burning sensation. Even sugar or sweet tastes seems to be able to attenuate the spiciness, such as an apple juice to accompany a spicy dish or a teaspoon of sugar.

BY MARISA CAMMARANO

jacleroi | parma IT

WE CARE FOR YOUR CREATIONS

PIZZA LINE SOFT WHEAT FLOUR “00” The are 2 fundamental ingredients to achieve an excellent pizza: technical experience and high quality raw materials. Since 1934, Molino Grassi has been selecting only the best wheat to offer you a range of flour and semolina with excellent characteristics, a selection specifically created to transfer the values of Made in Italy into high quality and authentic products. Our goal is to provide every professional baker and “pizzaiolo”, high quality flour that is an inspiration for every preparation, from the most classic to the most innovative. The Professional Pizza line is composed of 6 products of 00 flour, which all feature various dough proofing time: Fast H6, Speedy H10, Midi H12, Extramidi H16, Slow H24 and Bio (organic).

W W W. M O L IN O G R A S S I.IT

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PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture magazine

COLOPHON

GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo, Paola Dus — Mediagraf lab COVER ILLUSTRATED by Giulia Seraﬁn

Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 n. 6/bis, June, 2021 English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi, Patrizio Carrer ADVERTISING David Mandolin, Patrizio Carrer, Caterina Orlandi PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin

PRINTING OFFICE MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) - ITALY EDITORIAL AND TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Marisa Cammarano, Patrizio Carrer, Alfonso Del Forno, David Mandolin, Caterina Orlandi, Virgilio Pronzati, Caterina Vianello.

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Since 1990, Pizza e Pasta Italiana has been the Italian magazine of reference for professionals working in the pizza sector. As the organiser of international events such as the Pizza World Championship, Pizza e Pasta Italiana magazine tells the story of pizza over time, in Italy and in the world, through scientific articles, interviews with professionals, thematic insights on toppings, ingredients and specialities, processing techniques and new trends, with a constant spirit of service towards the restaurateur.

Slices is a new print and digital publishing project that will be developed by taking into consideration some of the basic raw materials to make pizza to perfection. "Slices" of culture for professionals only, oﬀering them a practical and immediate tool to progressively contribute to spreading knowledge of raw materials, processing techniques, technologies and the most suitable tools to prepare, with passion and love, one of the most loved dishes in the world. First edition:

/Flour - Part 1 /Toppings, ingredients and specialities - Part 1 Upcoming publications: /Preparation and cooking: equipment and tools - Part 1 /Mozzarella and cheeses - Part 1