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pizza equipment and supplies
M.A.M. FORNI
È una famiglia modenese, dove cucinare è una cosa seria.
A LEGNA
ELTTRICO GAS Da oltre mezzo secolo, MAM rappresenta la tradizione e la dedizione al lavoro di Modena e dei suoi cittadini. Le sue origini e la sua cura per i dettagli si sposano perfettamente con la costante ricerca per lo sviluppo di nuovi prodotti e tecnologie nel settore. MAM, infatti, è
ROTANTE diventato un marchio leader grazie ai suoi forni combinati e rotanti esteticamente accattivanti e grazie a materiali di alta qualità e maestria artigianale. MAM è un marchio leader perché i suoi forni esaltano in tutto il mondo il vero gusto della pizza napoletana.
WWW.MAMFORNI.IT
Via Cecco Angiolieri, 28 - 34, 41123 Modena (IT) Tel.+39059330219·mam@mamforni.it PRODOTTI ITALIANI - TECNOLOGIA ITALIANA - GUSTO ITALIANO
Quick ignition and oven heating in a short time
Healthy and smokes-reduced combustion
High eeciency heat, maintenance and duration
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EDITORIAL
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For centuries, the meaning of the word "art" has been discussed, starting from the last part of the Middle Ages. And it is one of the rare cases whose certain etymology, instead of helping to find a definition, has led the mind into the most disparate meanders of reflection. The origin of the term can be traced back to ancient Greece, when the word techné referred to technical knowledge ("know-how") which was synonymous with culture and wisdom. Then, with the Renaissance, in those places that are today Italy, France and England, there was much debate about the difference between liberal arts and applied arts, that is, those arts that "did not get your hands dirty" and those in which it was mandatory to intervene with manual skills. But everyone was sure that in both cases we could talk about art. Not surprisingly, the corporations (the ancestors of the trade unions) were called, precisely, "of the arts". Art, therefore, yes, but in the sense of competence. What has been said so far is in reality only meant to accompany the clarification of a reflection too often underlying from 2017 onwards, or since the profession of the pizza maker was inscribed by UNESCO in the list of intangible heritage of humanity with the words of "art of the Neapolitan pizza maker".
Art.
The sustainable lightness of quality pizza. BY ANTONIO PUZZI
In fact, many people speak of pizza makers as artists rather than artisans. This is a seemingly minor subtlety but not to be underestimated. In fact, craftsmanship is a "noble art" because it combines technical knowledge and a creative act. And it is for this reason that it is a term that must be rediscovered and valued as much as possible. In the last four hundred years, that is, from the industrial revolutions of the seventeenth century and postEnlightenment to today, craftsmanship has often changed its habits, in many cases losing its manual skills in the face of an increasingly massive use of "machines". The doubt is therefore: can machines replace man? The answer we try to give in this issue is: no. Certainly, however, these are a fundamental aid, as well as an integral part of the profession. Find out why, starting from the opening piece and then decide for yourself by browsing the pages that follow. An affectionate greeting, nio
PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
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SUMMARY
ARTICLES
RECIPES
1— p.6
Machines:
p.14
Rosa Casulli
p.24
Errico Porzio
BY ANTONIO PUZZI
p.10
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The importance of planning BY ANTONIO PADUANO
p.16
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Small glossary OF THE TOOLS OF A CONTEMPORARY PIZZERIA BY F.M.
p.26
Which oven for my pizzeria?
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DAVID MANDOLIN TALKS WITH GRAZIANO BERTUZZO
p.36
p.32
Giovanni Spera
p.42
Matteo Aloe
p.36
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The dough mixers BY LUCA GACCIONE, DIDACTIC DIRECTOR OF SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI
p.46
Federica Mignacca
p.56
Gianni di Lella
Catering and Technology:
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HOW INNOVATION WILL REVOLUTIONISE THE RESTAURANT. BY DOMENICO MARIA JACOBONE
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1. Machines
BY ANTONIO PUZZI
WHEN IT COMES TO EQUIPMENT, WE ALWAYS FIND OURSELVES AT A CROSSROADS: ARE THEY A HELP AT WORK OR WILL THEY END UP TAKING OUR PLACE?
6
Now, if it is true that it is difficult to imagine a pizzeria without an oven, it is clearly more difficult to understand whether a rotating oven with self-regulating temperatures and cooking time memory is actually "replacing" the role of the baker or is simply simplifying his work, allowing the premises to increase productivity and standardise the product. And again: is standardisation to be evaluated as a word ascribable to "good" or "bad" progress?
These are questions that often have only one answer: “it depends”. To say it with Jarabe de Palo’s words:
"DEPENDE ¿DE QUÉ DEPENDE? DE SEGÚN COMO SE MIRE, TODO DEPENDE". Yes, because if my goal is to associate my name and my work with a chain of pizzerias, I can’t clone myself of course, but I have to use all the means at my disposal to create a recognisable product that goes “beyond the sign”. One of the biggest limitations of the places that offer territorial catering (starting from Italian cuisine) and that decide to open various premises around the world is in fact not having full control of the replicability of the product.
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In this way, we end up “becoming just a name”, offering a different product from location to location. American marketing has spent much on how to overcome this obstacle, starting from the experience of entrepreneurs of the caliber of Ray Kroc, who, fascinated by the first McDonald's, decided - with means not commendable ethically- to replicate the cuisine and the brand in various locations, thinking however about the “lower level” homologation to obtain a standard product. The real challenge of modern times lies instead in “raising the level” and many try to do so.
FIRST, STANDARDISATION IS SOUGHT THROUGH TECHNICAL TRAINING: if, for example, I want to open a chain of pizzerias, I purchase a training course from a specialised company or even open a training section within my company.
1. MACHINES
BUT CAN TECHNICAL TRAINING ALONE ACHIEVE OUR BUSINESS GOALS? NO, IF IT IS NOT ACCOMPANIED BY “ALL-ROUND” PROFESSIONAL TRAINING, BY A SUITABLE SELECTION OF HUMAN RESOURCES AND - LAST BUT NOT LEAST - BY THE EQUIPMENT MOST SUITED TO OUR TYPE OF COMPANY. When I talk about professional training, I mean that it is not enough to teach a pizza chef to make pizza according to the style defined by the company, but I must be sure that the pizza chef is above all satisfied with that product and that they then have the structural, aptitude and "environmental" (in the sense of sharing spaces with other colleagues) conditions to actually reproduce it in the same way as the parent company. Those who do not fully trust the hired staff, often choose another path: they build a laboratory for kneading and pre-cooking, where the bases for all the stores are created and then shipped to all the locations, providing the appropriate training to regenerate and then complete the product in the place where it will be consumed.
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BY ANTONIO PUZZI
IN THIS CASE, CAN WE STILL TALK ABOUT CRAFTSMANSHIP? AND, IF SO, WHO IS THE CRAFTSMAN? THE PIZZA MAKER WHO CONCEIVED THE DOUGH, THE ONE WHO MAKES IT OR EVEN THE ONE WHO REGENERATES IT, PERHAPS USING AN OVEN THAT MANAGES TO SELF-REGULATE COOKING METHODS AND TIMES? WHAT FORM OF CRAFTSMANSHIP IS CONTEMPORANEITY LEADING US TO?
It is clear that here the artisan / industrial dichotomy no longer holds and that the new form of the multi-site restaurant business is right "in the middle", just like the relationship between global and local that can no longer be expressed by referring only the two extremes. Globalisation is in fact an irreversible process: it is in the homologation of market shaping as well as in the definition of business models; what makes the difference, however, is the approach of the entrepreneur who can follow the "McDonald's model" based on low cost and high yield or create a new path, based on three increasingly necessary keywords:
RESPECT (OF THE CUSTOMER AND OF THE PERSONNEL), SUSTAINABILITY AND RECOGNITION. If you succeed in this undertaking, with or without machines, you can be sure that success is assured. Maybe at least like Kroc.
AD: STUDIO OVER | PH: STEFANIA GIORGI | STYLING: VANDERSANDESTUDIO
PIZZERIA LINE APPROVED BY AVPN (ASSOCIAZIONE VERACE PIZZA NAPOLETANA) THE TRUE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA ASSOCIATION
@MOLINO_PASINI
MOLINOPASINI.COM
MOLINO PASINI
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BY ANTONIO PADUANO
10
The importance of planning
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
Opening a pizzeria is not a problem if there is a market and the right demand, so there is nothing to fear. The important thing is to do it well, prepared and with good equipment. Today, when we talk about quality, health and savings, there is only one correct way to act: knowing how to choose, having the knowledge to be able to have the best product to suit everyone's demands. When they open a business, entrepreneurs often turn to a dealer of both food and equipment, each of whom will have their own, legitimate interests, based also on how much you can and want to spend. But what if we claimed that a successful result can be obtained only and exclusively with good products and high-performance materials? Well yes, that is the case!
THE IMPORTANCE OF PLANNING
I'll just give you one example: everyone talks about pizza and the first thing that comes to mind is the flour, then the tomato, the mozzarella, finally all the other ingredients related to the finished product. And instead we start from the oven; yes, right from the oven, because that will be the tool that will allow you to cook from the first to the (hopefully) 100th pizza in a day, in a similar way without cooking problems. It is known that you will put your equipment to the test, according to the location, the numbers at the weekend and the days of greatest customer influx: 11 — that's when you will put your equipment to the test, right when you have the queue outside and you mustn’t have problems with lowering oven temperatures, suitable fridge capacity, a high-performance fryer that constantly gives you the right browning and cooking of your fried food. The saying is really true: those who spend more, spend less; especially in this case. Often, when I go into pizza workshops, I notice quality equipment straight away: the steel tables not unglued by the heat of the pans and pots, shelves that are not tied patchily to support the weight and especially the oven, the fryer, the mixer, or the trait d'union that will mean you make the difference.
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Let’s consider ovens, for example: based on the pizza we choose to prepare whether it is round, with a shovel or in a pan - we will have to make choices: if we wanted to make in the pan we would need, for the correct cooking, — 12 an electric oven with low, 12 cm (4.7”) openings, with good and large resistances that can be seen by looking inside the oven opening: in fact, a small opening is needed to have an immediate cooking, because inside we will put 2/3 trays per opening. Consequently, the amount of mass and humidity will be considerable and if we do not have a quality oven the temperature will drop in the blink of an eye, the pizza will cook slowly and the result will be dryness and vitreous crunchiness of the dough and dry toppings. Proper cooking of a pan lasts from 12 to 14 minutes according to taste. If, on the other hand, we wanted to make pizza on the shovel, we would need an oven with a stone refractory surface, and the stone can be various heights and depending on the height you will have a different irradiation duration (an oven opening of 18 cm, as it which cooks on
BY ANTONIO PADUANO
the oven floor, it will have a more delicate cooking the pan and the pizza will have to be cook seven to nine minutes). For the round pizza the cooking will be similar to the shovel, but with the difference that the oven will be wider and not very deep, for a visual and manual management of your pizzas, with cooking times from 90 seconds for Neapolitan to 3/4 minutes of the Italian or Roman style. A simple example: if I wanted to open a pizzeria, I would need a room of 50-60 sqm divided into 30 sqm of laboratory and 20-30 for sales (it is better to have a few more meters of laboratory and a few less meters for sales) ; the customer will wait if it is worth it and in these 30 square meters of laboratory I will have to have a two-mouth oven, a nice counter with a food warmer and it’s important to have a two tank fryer, a mixer, 2/3 column or under counter refrigerators, a freezer, a slicer, a shelving for holding pots and equipment, a four burner stove with a hood, a dishwasher and a rack. Remember that as far as refrigerators are concerned, one more is always better than one less, and you will immediately realise that with their correct storage,
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
THE IMPORTANCE OF PLANNING
you will have a better shelf-life for your products, and a constantly controlled temperature. A little experience never hurts and therefore better fryers - capacity of at least 14/15 liters minimum - with a clean tank: in this way the fall of the breadcrumbs will not end up on the heating elements, burning the oil, and your fried food will be definitely better. The mixer will have at least two speeds and with a non-flat concave bowl (today we love high hydration). Therefore, if today we wanted to open our pizzeria - whether it is by the slice, take-away or with tables inside - we should therefore always remember two things: that in relation to the size of the kitchen and the adequacy of the equipment we will make more or less pizzas, but also that we will spend no less than 12-14 hours a day inside the laboratory: it is therefore advisable to make it as good as possible, with the best products and the best technologies, in such a way as to always surpass competitors, satisfy customers and work better in it.
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Rosa Casulli PIZZERIA MCROSE IN PUTIGNANO, BARI
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Since 2000 she and her family have owned the McRose pizzeria in Putignano, a city of about 30,000 inhabitants which is part of the metropolitan area of Bari and is famous for the textile industry and Carnival. Rosa is an important professional in the world of pizzerias. Trained at the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli - where she teaches - and "in the field" with varied work experience, she has contemporarily won various prizes in the World Pizza Championship, ranking several times in the top ten and becoming World Champion in 2008 with the “0 kilometer” pizza, rich in products from its Apulian land. “Since I was a child, I have always had a passion for cooking, dough and above all for desserts - Rosa tells us. I have always dreamed of having my own business in which to channel my passion and finally in the year 2000 the opportunity arose: with the support of my husband we decided to start a restaurant business and invest in ourselves. We mainly wanted to sell sandwiches, pizza by the slice, round pizzas, various appetisers, but from day one customers preferred the classic round pizza, and we specialised accordingly. “Ours is a simple place, where you can sit down to have a quick meal.
RECIPES
R
ROSA CASULLI
E
Very often the thought of fast is associated with the concept of poor quality, but this is not the case for us; everything is done with care, from the choice of raw materials to the doughs to production. We have been using sourdough for the classic pizza for almost 15 years now, we have been self-producing sandwiches and wraps, we use many fresh seasonal ingredients, dairy products of excellent quality, being able to count on a territory rich in excellence: so, as far as possible, we choose Zero Kilometre or a short supply chain. With this mindset and to take another step forward in our philosophy, in April 2020 we joined a great initiative by renting a vegetable garden: so, some of the vegetables we offer are produced without the use of any artificial pesticide or fertilizer but only with manure."
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
PRE-DOUGH: flour type "00" W 350/400 water
1000 gr (2.2 lb)
480 ml (16.23 US fl oz / 16.9 UK fl oz)
fresh compressed yeast
800 gr (28.2 oz)
ancient wheat flour water salt
200 gr (7.05 oz)
900 ml (30.4 US fl oz/ 31.7 UK fl oz) 50 gr (1.76 oz)
oil
60 gr (2.12 oz)
TOPPING: Tomato sauce
Mozzarella cheese
Confit yellow baby plum tomatoes Marinated courgette Fresh mint
C O N F I T Y E L LOW L BABY PLUM TOMATOES: baby plum tomatoes salt
5 gr (0.18 oz)
1 kg (2.2 lb) sugar
REFRESH PIZZA
Second dough: Put the two flours and the whole predough in the mixer, add 650ml (22.9 UK fl oz / 22 US fl oz) of water and let it work for 4/5 minutes, drizzle in the oil, add the salt and then the water a little at a time, make the dough string well and finish with 2 minutes in second speed. The end-of-mix temperature must be 24/26°C (75°/79°F). Work the dough into a tight ball and let it rest for about 1 hour, then proceed with the cutting. Put the balls into the fridge if you want to use them the next day or leave them at room temperature if you want to consume them the same day.
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Topping: Wash the baby plum tomatoes, cut them in half lengthwise. Season with oil, salt, apple vinegar, sugar and basil, bake in the oven at 90°C / 194°F for 2 hours.
Grana Padano cheese
Capocollo "di Martina"
Method
Pre-dough: Dissolve the yeast in water and mix with the flour for 5 minutes in reverse, or by hand without stringing. Let the pre-dough mature at 18°C (64°F) for 18 hours.
5 gr (0.18 oz)
SECOND DOUGH: wholemeal flour
Pizza Refresh
10 gr (0.35 oz)
apple cider vinegar
50 gr (1.76 oz)
extra virgin olive oil
20 gr (0.7 oz)
Basil
Marinated courgette: Clean a courgette, remove the top and bottom, cut it into thin slices lengthwise, season with the prepared emulsion. Take 6 slices of courgette, place a slice of capocollo and form rolls. Roll out the pizza, season with tomato sauce, mozzarella and Grana Padano, then with a few slices of marinated courgette, confit plum tomatoes and courgette rolls, bake in the oven at 330°C/626°F. When cooked, decorate with mint leaves.
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BY F.M.
SMALL GLOSSARY OF THE TOOLS OF A CONTEMPORARY PIZZERIA
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“We need to find the right words: words are important”, so Nanni Moretti warned in one of his unforgettable films: Palombella Rossa. Certainly words are also important in a typical pizzeria in southern Italy where, with affection, fascinating archaic terminologies are preserved, inherited together with the art of pizza. Words that today young and old professionals in the sector continue to use alongside regionalisms and introducing newer terms that partly concern the small glossary that we propose here to discover what is needed in a contemporary pizzeria.
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
KNEADER: there are three types: with dipping arms, fork and spiral. The name certainly derives from the type of arm - two in the case of the dipping arms - present in the tank which, of course, can be of different sizes, fixed or removable. In modern mixers, we have the possibility, through touch screens, to adjust processing times and speeds. The "FORK" consists of a hook that works by rotating in the tank with an inclination with respect to the rotation axis of the tank itself. It is the slowest but the one that transfers less heat to the dough and which is suitable for doughs that require mixing several ingredients but with longer times and perhaps not very high hydrations. Also excellent in the preparation of pre-fermentations such as the pre-dough which provides a raw, not completely mixed mass. The "DIPPING ARMS" consists of two arms with hooks called forcola and spatula, mounted on discs that allow synchronous rotation. The dough is collected from the tank and pulled up to be subsequently released. This type, after the fork, is recommended to avoid overheating the mass and simulates sideboard kneading by hand.
GLOSSARY
The "SPIRAL" is certainly the fastest of the three, returning excellent, soft and also very hydrated doughs in a few minutes. This type definitely transfers more heat and for this reason it is then advisable for the professional to work in choosing the speed to be used or possibly the temperature of the ingredients, in particular of the water. The low speed of the spiral or possibly the reverse setting are very suitable in the preparation of the pre-dough.
BAILER: similar to a spoon and useful for transferring flour. Good practice could be to have one per 17 — bag, in order to avoid contamination if one or more flours contain, for example, cereals that represent allergens. SCALES AND PRECISION SCALES: useful in weighing the ingredients. In particular, precision scales are essential as, having a higher sensitivity and a lower tolerance, they are more suitable for the weighing of ingredients such as yeast or possibly powdered malts.
Slices// Slices GRADUATED JUGS: they can certainly facilitate the work of measuring water Cloth to cover the dough and / or pot with lid: it remains essential in the "initial leavening" phase of the dough to mass, to cover it with a cloth or damp cloth or close it in the tub, sprinkling it with oil. SPATULA: used both to proceed with the cutting and to extract our leavened loaves from the crates.
AUTOMATIC CUTTER: allows you to reduce the — 18 mass after the initial leavening into blocks of a suitable size with the support of technology. They are marketed with technical characteristics that differ in speed and in the ability to carry out this procedure on doughs with different types of hydration. CRATES: used to contain the cut dough, i.e. reduced into balls of the appropriate size for processing. DOUGH THERMOMETER: fundamental in the control of the dough process, it consists of a probe to be inserted inside the mass and a reading on the display. The most sophisticated ones allow instant reading in 3-6 seconds.
BY F.M.
AMBIENT THERMOMETER: usually on the display, they today allow to detect both temperature and humidity. Among the most sophisticated, are models that allow us to detect, within the previous 24 hours, even the minimum and maximum reached in the mixing environment. They are useful in the management of doughs at room temperature or possibly also during changes of season. INFRARED THERMOMETER: it is usually an infrared gun that allows the measurement of the surface temperature of inanimate objects in real time. In pizzerias it is often used both for controlling the temperatures of refrigerators and for detecting the internal temperatures of the oven where it is not possible to do so on the oven itself.
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BY F.M.
SHOVEL, PERFORATED SHOVEL, SOLID SHOVEL AND BRUSH WITH SUPPORT: these represent the basic kit to manage the cooking of the pizza product. The shovels differ in shape, size, presence or absence of holes, each one adaptable to the type of pizza product proposed. In the past, wooden shovels were used which have been replaced today, thanks to research and development in this sector, by aluminum shovels or even carbon fiber ones that give the handle an unparalleled lightness, a thermal insulation that drastically reduces the transmission of heat and mechanical resistance, making work easier. The perforated shovel is used to rotate the pizzas ensuring homogeneous cooking and the full shovel, without holes for managing the wood. Finally, the brush is adjustable with brass bristles and used for cleaning the oven floor.
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
GLOSSARY
OVEN: we have ovens with different types of power supply: Wood, gas and electric. In any case, for each type there are different models that differ increasingly from each other for their specific characteristics determine the success of the pizza product. In traditional Neapolitan pizza, the use of a wood oven certainly dominates. Cooking takes place by convention, contact and radiation. It reaches maximum temperatures of 500 °C (932°F) and allows faster cooking than the others. Often, without flues and, according to new environmental protection regulations, this type requires suitable insulated flues and smoke suppressors.
Gas and electric: today these ovens have found their space with technologies designed to provide a product that is increasingly suitable for cooking Neapolitan pizza. Obviously, the management costs today represent an im- 21 — portant discriminant of choice and moreover the most modern electric ovens guarantee not only quality in cooking, but also the possibility of supporting the operator through the possibility of programming ignition and temperatures and are less " operator dependent ", certainly not negligible given the moment of crisis of human resources in the sector.
Slices// Slices COUNTER: dominates the scene in the pizzeria together with the oven, of course. It is the place where the pizza is spread after it is taken out of the drawer and where we find the horizontal refrigerator with the ingredients of the line. The counter is usually made of marble or granite, as it is less subject to heating.
REFRIGERATORS: essential for the correct storage of food and in particular also for doughs. Of different — 22 sizes, counter top ones differ because they are horizontal and contain strictly aluminum containers of medium and small dimensions, in which we find the “line” ingredients used for the pizza topping. LEAVENING CELLS: these are new generation cells that allow the management of the dough, therefore maturation and leavening, at controlled temperature and humidity. They are equipped with screens that allow automatic programming of humidity, times and temperatures.
BY F.M.
YEAST MACHINE AND PREDOUGH STOP: this machine allows you to manage liquid or solid sourdough - and also any pre-fermentations - through phases that allow you to set times and temperatures for an optimal final product, ready for use. The list could obviously be further detailed and continue but for now we will stop here, certain that we have provided you with a useful handbook for starting up a location capable of responding to the needs of modernity.
Every Queen has her scepter. For our 60th anniversary, we designed two.
Our 60th anniversary is the occasion to celebrate, once again, her majesty Queen Pizza Margherita. The ear shaped puncture make it precious and shout out from all the other ones. Realized following the highest professional standards. For those who believe pizza is a fine art. This is real Italian excellence. Designed by: Itamar Harari.
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“My story starts from afar, characterised by curiosity, fascination and play. Let me explain: my father worked with my uncle, Mario Pellone, one of the names that made and makes the history of pizza in Naples. My father often took me with him and I watched my uncle mix the flours, knead, roll out the pizza. Then, when I was 13, I asked to try to make the pizzas myself, my friends couldn't believe it: ‘Do you prefer to stay in a pizzeria, rather than come and play football with us?’ But that was how I had fun. A few years later, when everyone went to nightclubs or to the cinema on Saturday nights, guess where I was? In the pizzeria. It was great! Then, in 1999, I opened my first pizzeria in Soccavo, in my neighborhood in the Phlegraean area. It was family-run and dedicated only to take-away. Thirteen years later, in 2012, I took an adjacent space and joined the two places to create my first pizzeria that I still manage proudly. It is a pizzeria that customers come to from all over Naples and its province. Later, in 2018, I opened at Vomero and since then it has been a crescendo of inaugurations, with more and more people choosing my pizza."
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ERRICO PORZIO
Errico Porzio “I am a man full of enthusiasm. A pizzaiuolo with a "U", as we like to call ourselves in Naples, who experiments with doughs, creates new toppings, captivating shapes. Sometimes they call me a ‘popular piazzauiolo’ but I rather like to consider myself a ‘people's piazzauiolo’: I'm always behind the counter, I like chatting with customers, listening to their impressions and, when there is criticism, as things can’t always be perfect, treasure their considerations. That's how you grow. For the same reason, the prices in my pizzerias are fair. I don't like big markups. I love to communicate and I enjoy using social media, which allows me to reach a huge number of people. I explain my recipes to them, propose new condiments and always conclude with what has become my slogan: ‘S’adda sapé fa’. You have to know how to do things, they must be done with competence and passion. That’s what I believe."
“Mine is a pizza in which the quality of the products comes before anything else. I want all the ingredients to be top-of-therange: from the flours for the doughs to the toppings which, of course, follow the seasons. My pizza is midway between the traditional and the modern or between ‘the modern and the contemporary’, as I also like to define my temperament. An evolved but not exasperated pizza, with a nice crust, but always measured and proportionate to the disc of dough. Other than that, I am attentive to developments but without forgetting where we come from "
E Imboscata
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
AMBUSH Method
DOUGH: water
500 ml (16.91 US fl oz, 17.6 UK fl oz)
00 flour
400 g (14.1 oz)
type 1 flour salt yeast
100 g (3.5 oz)
20-25 gr (0.04-0.05 lb / 0.7-0.9 oz) 2 g (0.07 oz)
TOPPINGS: Scottona minced beef boletus mushrooms provola of Agerola Parmesan chips drops of cream of rocket
P
"Mix until you get a cream, cover and keep at room temperature for 12/16 hours. Then, add 200 g (7 oz) of flour, 1 g (0.035 oz) of yeast and 22 g (0.8 oz) of salt. Knead by hand for 7/8 minutes and let the covered dough rest for 2 hours After this time, form 270 g (9.5 oz) loaves and let them rise for 8 hours. Roll out, season and bake in the oven with a maximum temperature of 400°C (750°F) When cooking, add the minced meat, boletus mushrooms and provolone. Upon exiting oven: Parmesan chips and cream of rocket drops."
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DAVID MANDOLIN TALKS WITH GRAZIANO BERTUZZO
Which oven for my pizzeria? 26
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
Heat is a source of energy that can be diffused inside an oven mainly in three ways: - by radiation i.e. with the heat source coming from the dome or from the top of the oven. In this case, cooking favours the upper part of the disc of dough. - by conduction: through the direct contact of the oven floor or the pan with the disc of dough, it is possible to cooking pertains to the underside of the pizza. - by convection: the hot air that circulates inside the oven allows a more even cooking of the dough disc, progressively dehydrating the pizza and its ingredients and allowing the formation of the characteristic alveolation of the pizza cornice. The correct management of the heat diffusion methods allows to obtain a wellcooked or a more moist pizza, according to the needs of the pizza maker. In this case, as we will see, the oven plays a fundamental role, giving the pizza chef the opportunity to create very different pizzas. We talk about it with Graziano Bertuzzo, a professional with considerable experience and winner of numerous international competitions, consultant and trainer. B EFORE C HOOSING AN OVEN, D O I N E E D TO DECID E WHICH PRODUCT I WA N T TO MAKE? OR IS THE CONT R A RY - P ROVOCATIVELY - TRUE? “It is a theme that in my opinion does not arise. First of all, I have to be convinced of what I want to offer to the public, whether it is a pizza on a shovel, in a tray, the classic round or Neapolitan pizza. I must already know what I want to achieve and consequently choose the tool that I think is best suited to my path; the opposite way is much more difficult - or rare. "
OVENS
T H E W OO D OVEN . “This type of oven is generally used for round pizza, whether it is Neapolitan or not. It can be used with products that have hydration ranging between 55% and 70% approximately; the skill of the pizza chef is necessary in this case to manage the ideal temperatures for cooking dough and toppings. However, we should make a distinction between static and rotating wood fired ovens. The static oven does not allow the chef to decide at will to increase the temperature if more heat is necessary by conduction. In fact, if the pizza chef needs more heat on the oven floor, they should suspend the baking for a while, because the heat in this case comes mainly from radiation. By suspending baking, the oven floor heats up; however, the chef must know the time necessary for this process, and have 27 — a clear understanding of the characteristics of the oven they are using, such as - but not exclusively - size, width, height, degree of insulation.
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The rotating system allows heat to arrive from below, either with gas or with the combustion of wood or pellets or thanks to the electric resistances; the floor raises and at that moment it is possible to work in this way, without suspending the batches. I would also like to remind you that it is incorrect to choose a wood oven based on ideas or beliefs that are still heard, that is, that cooking with wood gives a different taste to the pizza: I would rather say that we would be in trouble if there were unpleasant smells! Another thing, however, is the possible charm for the customer or the cultural habit of the pizza chef, perhaps of those like me who started the profession many years ago. It should be remembered that the wood-fired oven is unforgiving; you need to be very careful and familiar with handling the baking ".
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DAVID MANDOLIN TALKS WITH GRAZIANO BY DAVID MANDOLIN BERTUZZO
TH E EL ECT RI C OVEN "The choice is clearly very varied, and close attention has to be paid to how the business is set up. Let's assume that you want to offer round pizza on the shovel in a pizzeria. For example, if we talk about pizza on the shovel, considering a general tendency to work with approximately 80% hydration, a defined and different temperature regulation is required compared to the round pizza. In fact, if I were to bake a shovel and a round one in the same chamber, I would cause disasters and would probably burn the latter. In fact, I must consider that if for a shovel (let's assume 20 x 40 cm/ 7.8” x 15.8”) I have 500g (17.6 oz) of dough, we are already doubling the weight compared to that of the round pizza. I will therefore expect less heat by convection (less in the chamber) precisely so that all the water present in the dough is gradually and slowly eliminated, at least in 12 minutes. Which is not good for a lighter dough. However, you can cook different products in different chambers, which is also my advice: having two chambers allows you on the one hand to develop the product you started from and on the other hand to develop new ones as your customers request them and your work evolves. "
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A RE ALL E LECTRI C OVENS SUITABLE FO R P I ZZ A ON A SHOVEL? Yes and no. Regardless of the brand, it is important to first decide the height of the chamber, because if it is too high it could damage the product. The higher chambers are for larger pieces such as panettone for example. Then the material must be evaluated: whether they are refractory stone, refractory cement or other alloys and next, the thickness of the refractory stone, which is very important. Without considering that it must be decided whether the refractory material is wanted only on the floor or in the entire internal lining of the chamber. In the latter case, the heat is less aggressive, more tenuous we can say; you do not have the immediate effect of the resist— 30 ances and it takes a little longer. It is a choice that pizza chefs make based on their experience, skills and knowledge and the product they want to serve ".
DAVID MANDOLIN TALKS WITH GRAZIANO BERTUZZO
HO W DO I S ET M Y PARAM ET ERS ? “The latest generation ovens provide for the regulation of all possible and imaginable factors: heat, humidity, cooking times. We need the humidity so that caramelisation does not occur immediately when the inside is still raw. On the other hand, the cooking time counts for very little if the effect of opening the oven door is not considered. An expert pizza maker doesn’t look at cooking times but has other parameters to set. There are ovens on the market with temperature regulation in the chamber, on the floor and in radiation. There are manual ovens with a 50% or 100% heat emission system and others with electronic boards”.
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
W HY DO I C HOOSE ONE OVE R A N OT HE R? "Based on the experience of those who use it or on financial availability. If I have to let my experience "speak", I can say that the one with the electronic board gives the pizza chef more decision-making parameters, such as making the resistances work, based on the percentages given. The manual one may perhaps be useful for those who, for example, cook pizza in a pan, because it gives you a considerable heat cue, but at the same time be careful if you use it for round pizza, because the considerable conduction thrust risks cooking the base too soon. The one with temperature regulation, in my opinion, has an intermediate utility; which in any case always allows the regulation of convection and conduction, balancing them". T HE TUN N E L OVEN “It's definitely convenient and works very well. It is a technology that I have seen at work in places with continuous and constant batches. The variant to consider is the exit time of the pizza from the belt, and therefore balance table service times in the case of large companies. The belt rotation times must be adjusted in relation to radiation and conduction; I am the one who manages and sets pizza cooking times according to the dough type. However, once the balance has been found, anyone can use it without no problem. Regardless of the oven you choose, I recommend getting it after a lot of practice baking and experience preferably with the various types of oven available. "
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RECIPES
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GIOVANNI SPERA
Giovanni Spera
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CASARSA PIZZERIA LUCANA, POTENZA, BASILICATA
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"For me, pizza from the South, in its dozens of styles, always remains an act of friendship, fun and personal recovery of “tradition", understood as preserving the idea of simplicity and authenticity of the ingredients. Tradition can often be a limit, above all technical and in particular regarding the handling and management of doughs and ingredients. Scientifically, many traditional methods have been refuted and replaced by methods more attentive to the enhancement of raw materials at both a nutritional and organoleptic level. Ignoring this and "doing something because it has always been done this way" is counterproductive for work and for the company, a dynamic environment by definition and in constant change. I specifically chose to work on two products: 1) The pizza in the Ruoto Potentina, also known as “Ruccolo”, a medium-thick focaccia, the result of the recovery of leftover dough in bakeries, of which I preserve and try to enhance our family version.
A soft and crunchy pizza at the base and crust, with a strong rustic flavour and the characteristic smell of bread, oiled but not too much and cooked gently. The dough that comes from a mix of soft wheat and durum wheat flours is fermented by brewer's yeast mixed with carryover dough ("growing" as it would be called in Basilicata) and follows a leavening / maturation of 8 hours at room temperature, of which 6 hours spread out to rise directly in its ruoto (ndt round tray). Of the traditional procedure, I only changed the choice and percentage of the blend of flours (favouring flours with medium-low strength) and I codified my method of managing temperatures (fundamental with sourdoughs), trying to stabilise and standardise the result. I also changed and modified the cooking times and use of the basic ingredients trying to adapt them to the processing in order to enhance their colour, flavour and consistency as much as possible in relation to the slow cooking of the round trays. 2) My Italian round pizza: Dough with a mix of “Type 0” and whole wheat flours, leavened and matured for 24 to 36 hours, between room temperature and cold room. It is a pizza that winks at the Neapolitan tradition in hydration and spreading but is characterised by "medium" cooking at 360°C (680°F) and the use of olive oil to improve its fragrance and overall texture.
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
INGREDIENTS: flour "0" medium strength (w 230-280) 700g (24.7 oz) re-milled semolina water
670ml (22.65 US fl oz 23.58 UK fl oz)
brewer's yeast
P salt
300g (10.6 oz)
10 g (0.35 oz)
25g (0.9 oz)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
25g (0.9 oz)
Method Dough preparation 1) In a large bowl pour both flours, the crumbled yeast, the oil and 600ml (20.3 US fl oz 21.1 UK fl oz) of water (set aside the remaining 50ml / 1.7 US fl oz / 1.8 UK fl oz) 2) With a fork, start mixing all the ingredients and after 2 minutes add the salt and the remaining water 3) When the dough has taken shape and is difficult to mix it with a fork, stop and let it rest for a few minutes (5-10) 4) Turn the dough onto a floured table and finish kneading by hand (about 10 minutes) until the desired consistency is reached. If the dough is dry, add water gradually. 5) Put the finished dough (smooth and homogeneous) in the bowl and close it with the plastic wrap. Leavening and management 6) Let the dough rise in the bowl for 30 minutes 7) After this first rising, divide the dough into balls of the desired weight (apply the formula you find in the "tricks"). 8) Leave the balls covered with cling film or a damp cloth to rise for 1 hour 9) Roll out the pizza in the semolina flour and pass it into the already oiled pan 10) Let the pizza rise in the pan for 2-4 hours (the more it rises, the higher and softer it will be)
PIZZA IN THE RUOTO POTENTINA OF CASARSA Cooking 11) Preheat the oven to maximum with the heating elements on both above and below (at least 250°C /480°F ) 12) Bake the pizzas one at a time seasoned only with tomato or only with oil and cook for 5-7 minutes (the trays must be placed in the lower part of the oven, to better cook the bottom) 13) Take the pizza out of the oven carefully, season it as you like and re-bake it for another 5-7 minutes in the upper part of the oven (to cook the ingredients) 14) The pizza will be cooked when it has golden edges. During cooking -80/100g (2.8/3.5 oz) of San Marzano PDO peeled tomatoes crushed by hand or with a food mill -100/120g (3.5/4.2 oz) of Italian Fior di latte cut into cubes -50/70g (1.8/2.5 oz) of fried aubergines (Better if the "Perlina" variety) After cooking -50g (1.8 oz) of Caciocavallo Podolico or Provolone del Monaco -Premium Extra-Virgin Olive Oil -Basil
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BY LUCA GACCIONE, DIDACTIC DIRECTOR OF SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAOLI
The Dough Mixer
I would like to open a pizzeria: what are the primary aspects in choosing the right equipment for starting my business? This question is frequently asked of me, neglecting a not insignificant detail: what type of pizza do you want to make? There are a lot of professional proposals of the market to set up a laboratory for the production of pizza, with economic outlays for all budgets. Investing an important part of your capital to purchase quality equipment means setting up an efficient laboratory that will allow you to optimise time and obtain products that will increase the turnover of the premises.
The economic aspect is therefore certainly important. Choosing cheap solutions often turns out to be risky, reserving surprises and disappointment as well as a wasting money. Not all equipment has optimal characteristics to satisfy every need. We are talking about kneaders which, due to their structure and characteristics, are not suitable for making all types of dough; some are created for bread-making, others for pastry-making, others for the pizzeria sector or custom-built following a specific request from the operator, with increasingly innovative technologies.
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
W HI CH ON E TO CHOOSE? It is very important - within our business idea - to have a clear idea of the type of pizza to offer to our public: understanding which product to make, be it classic, round, on the plate, in a pan, on a shovel or in a pan, prepares us for a targeted choice of professional kneaders that will allow the dough to be hydrated, specific preferences made (pre-dough and poolish), use multiple speeds or even manage the speed of the bowl and the tool personally through a touch screen. Digitisation has now become part of everyday life even in those laboratories where in the past manual skill was the primary element and kneaders were poorly "performing", slow, sometimes even dangerous tools. Technology allows you to manage the speed of the bowl, the kneading arm, its rotation inversion, the programming of the times in first and second speed, any rest times, programmable restarts and automatic shutdown in extreme situations where the temperature of the dough exceeds certain working standards. The temperature of the dough, which determines the quality of the final product, is conditioned by the type of machine and the way in which it works the dough.
MIXERS
H AVI N G AS S ES S ED T H ES E I M P O RTAN T P O I N TS , T H E CH O I CE I N P U RCH AS I N G A M I X ER I S REST RI CT ED TO T H REE T YP ES WH I CH DI F F ER I N T H E N AM E O F T H E TOO L RES P O N S I B L E FO R T H E M I X I N G. H OW ARE T H E K N E ADERS ST RU CTU RED? They are machines composed of a body where one or two electric motors are installed (depending on the model) and through the use of toothed belts or chains, they rotate a cylindrical stainless steel tank and a tool that can be a fork, spiral, with dipping arms, equipped with a protection grid which blocks the machine ensuring maximum safety for the operator if raised during kneading. The fork kneader is characterised by a rotating bowl and a kneading arm 37 — from which it takes its name. It has a very low productivity due to the slowness in kneading which can reach up to thirty minutes. Suitable for processing dry doughs with a maximum hydration of 65%, it does not have suitable characteristics for processing more hydrated doughs. Thanks to its slow pace, it heats the dough only a few degrees (about 3° to 6°C / 5 to 10 °F) and is optimal for making pre-ferments. The "dipping arms" kneader, which appeared on the market in the early 1900s, has a high purchase cost and is structurally very cumbersome; designed to work hydrated doughs from 60% to 75%, it is composed of two mechanical arms whose movement simulates the work of man's arms. The two tools - called "forcola" and "spatula" - are connected to two discs which rotate in opposite directions simultaneously.
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Through the rotation of the bowl, this kneading mode lets all the ingredients of the dough to be mixed and collected from the bowl by pulling the dough upward with the dipping arms, and then subsequently releasing it. The result is a homogeneous and uniform mixture made on average in 15-20 minutes with excellent oxygenation. It has a thermal heating which usually ranges from 6° to 12°C (10.8-21.6°F) depending on the model and the technical characteristics. It is ideal for the production of large leavened products such as panettone and colombe. The spiral kneader, probably the best-selling and born from the need of the industrial world to reduce production times, is suitable for any type of dough. It is — 38 equipped with an electric motor that moves both a stainless-steel bowl and an arm called a spiral; this generates a pressure from top to bottom and the presence of a central cutter block prevents the dough from becoming a single block, improving its performance. It can be equipped with one or two motors where one moves the bowl and the other the spiral: this permits the second speed only for the spiral while maintaining the speed of the bowl unchanged during the processing phase. The evolution in the manufacturing of these machines has led to having steel tanks increasingly rounded so that the spiral can process even small quantities of flour in large tanks. They have the ability to knead in 10-12 minutes with hydrations of up to 90%. They can be equipped with a built-in
BY LUCA GACCIONE, DIDACTIC DIRECTOR OF SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAOLI
thermometer that monitors the temperature of the dough and, if this exceeds the maximum threshold set, the machine stops automatically. In fact, the temperature is the only "negative" aspect because it causes heating in the kneading phase (from 9° to 18°C / 16°-32°F ). The most advanced models are equipped with a touch screen where it is possible to reverse the direction of work (optimal for the creation of pre-dough-type preferences) or select the number of turns of the bowl and spiral or according to the recipe. In some cases, the head can be lifted, facilitating the extraction of the dough. The ability to choose kneaders with different voltages than the classic three-phase 380V has made it possible to purchase these single-phase 220V machines with small tanks at a low price which are more easily transportable.
ph: Lido Vannucchi
You wake up in the morning and grab your PASSION
EVOLUZIONE LINE
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I would add the fourth type of kneader on the market, the planetary kneader. I would not include it among the ideal kneaders for pizzerias or bakeries, but more oriented for cooking and pastry. They are extremely versatile and easy to handle, with the ability to use different processing tools (wire whisk, leaf and hook) all in one single machine. They have small tanks and the tool moves elliptically, creating balance and homogeneity. This kneading method, however, causes a very high thermal increase in the dough and it is for this reason that it is not used in pizzerias. In the purchase choice, the evaluation is mainly oriented towards construction materials in which metal must prevail over pressurized plastic. Another — 40 important aspect is the power; the higher it is, the more powerful the machine will be. The planetary machines on the market are produced with direct or indirect drive motors. The most common are indirect, in my opinion inefficient and destined to wear out over time. The difference between direct and indirect drive consists in the fact that in the direct drive the motor has a coupling to which all the accessories must be connected directly. They express excellent performance even with low power, reducing consumption. The indirect motor, on the other hand, uses a sophisticated system of belts that move gears that allow the movement of the accessories. In my opinion, a system that is delicate and destined to wear out over time.
BY LUCA GACCIONE, DIDACTIC DIRECTOR OF SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAOLI
RETU RN I N G TO OU R I N I T I AL Q U ES TION , T H E ADVI CE I S F I RST OF AL L TO U N DERSTAN D T H E P RO DU CT YO U W AN T TO M AK E AN D CO N S EQU EN T LY BU Y FO R COM P ET EN CE. DO YOU W AN T TO M AK E T H E CL AS S I C LOW H YDRATION P I Z Z A I N H OT EN VI RO N M EN TS ? TH E FO RK K N E ADER I S EXCEL L EN T. DO YO U M AK E A H I GH H YDRAT I O N P I Z Z A? The choice will probably fall on the twospeed spiral. Do you make panettone and do you also make bread in the pizzeria? We will opt for the one with dipping arms that oxygenates the doughs well. And if you want to experiment with pizza or bread dough at home, the planetary kneader is the ideal machine. Each to their own!
Expertise and specialization are the main features of Dell’Oro, that from over half century produces a whole range of strong and reliable machines, completely “made in Italy” with the primary aim to help you in your work. Automatic divider and rounder moulders
Screw round moulders
Levelling machines for pizza
Spiral mixers
Kneading arms mixers
Fork mixers
THE QUALITY, OR YOU BUY IT NOW, OR YOU PAY IT LATER 23868 VALMADRERA (Lecco) ITALY Viale XXV Aprile, 42 e-mail: info@delloro.it diedello@tin.it Tel.: +39.0341.581202 Fax: +39.0341.200251
w w w. d e l l o ro. i t
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Aloe
BERBERÈ (BOLOGNA)
42 Matteo Aloe is the creator - with his brother Salvatore - of the Berberè project, which saw the light in 2010 with the first store in Castel Maggiore (Bologna) and which then grew steadily over the years with other restaurants in Italy and one in London. Graduated in Economics and Marketing with a thesis on "Restaurant marketing", Aloe grew up with a strong passion for cooking and for baking and leavening processes, which he expresses in a meticulous research on flours, raw materials, chemical processes and notable creativity in the preparation of pizzas. In 2014 he took the opportunity to increase his technical knowledge thanks to the experience gained as an intern at chef Renè Redzepi’s Noma in Copenhagen, proclaimed the best restaurant in the world that year, then cultivating the desire to bring to the table ingredients of the highest quality, developed by (young) fellow artisans, and accessible to most: a gastronomic culture based on seasonality, popularity and craftsmanship.
MATTEO ALOE
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"Berberè was born in 2010 with particular attention to sustainability, and our direction is to do better and better. For us, sustainability is not "only" about preserving the environment but creating a world that is socially and economically more equitable. So, from the products used to the choice of suppliers, up to the employment contracts, everything contributes to doing business in an ethical way. We have recently transformed all electrical supplies using 100% green energy certified by the supplier. In short, there is still a long way to go to define ourselves as totally sustainable, but for 11 years we have always been adding steps to reach the goal of zero impact, truly zero. Furthermore, since the beginiing, we have chosen to use organic ingredients and products from natural crops, because we believe that sustainable agriculture is the only way to preserve the earth for future generations. We rely on suppliers and companies with strong ethical principles, which do not exploit workers and do not harm the environment. In fact, sustainability cannot only be environmental but also involves people who work every day to create quality products such as tomato sauce or mozzarella. For example, our flours are all from cereals with certified organic cultivation and in Italy, the meats and cured meats come from the Zivieri Butcher in the beautiful hills of the Bolognese Apennines. The native species, Mora Romagnola, is raised here directly in the semi-wild state, protecting and ensuring respect for the welfare of the animals, their normal growth rate and choosing strictly natural foods for their nutrition. "
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Pizza Zucca e Funghi di Berberè
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
PUMPKIN AND BERBERÈ MUSHROOMS PIZZA, REINTERPRETATION OF THE CAPRICCIOSA PIZZA Duration: 8 h Medium level Doses: 2 people
DOUGH: durum wheat type 1 flour
300 gr (0,66 lb / 10.65 oz) 200g (7.05 oz)
refreshed sourdough
80g (2.8 oz)
water at room temperature 240ml (8.12 US fl oz / 8.45 UK fl oz) malt
2g (0.07 oz)
salt
10g (0.35 oz)
olive oil salt
2 tbsp
10 gr (0.02 lb / 0.35 oz)
Method Sift the two types of flour together. Put half of it in a bowl, make a hole in the center and pour in the refreshed yeast, water and malt. Mix with your hands until the mixture is smooth and let it rest for 30 minutes. Add the remaining flour a little at a time, stirring vigorously. Knead for about 10 minutes until you get a smooth dough. Form a ball, put it in a bowl greased with oil, cover with a sheet of plastic wrap and let it rise until doubled (about 5-6 hours). Grease a round pan with a diameter of about 34cm (13.4”) with oil. Gently transport the dough onto the pan and spread it gently with your fingers, starting from the center outwards. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest for at least another 2 hours. Heat the oven to maximum temperature.
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RECIPES
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MATTEO ALOE
From left Salvatore and Matteo Aloe
MANTUAN PUMPKIN: pumpkin mixed mushrooms: porcini (boletus) champignon (button mushrooms) pleurotus (oyster mushrooms) and pioppini (poplar mushroom) marjoram thyme oil rosemary salt smoked provola parsley or nepitella
For the Mantuan pumpkin: peel, remove the seeds and dice, season with oil, salt and rosemary place in the oven at 180°C (356°F) for 12 minutes without a fan Mixed mushrooms: sauté in a pan with marjoram and thyme oil over medium heat, add salt. Arrange the pumpkin on the pizza then the smoked provola. On exit add the freshly heated mushrooms then season with rosemary, oil and parsley (nepitella would be the best)
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FEDERICA MIGNACCA
Federica's cultural background was enriched alongside the Master Pizzaiolo Vincenzo Marra at the helm of the pizzeria sector of Excellence Campane where the search for products and a careful enhancement of the territory and tradition became the strength of the new spearhead of the group, Verace Sudd Roma. In 2020 she then moved to Vinovo in Piedmont, to a location called Passaparola and finally to the "tre spicchi" prize winning pizzeria Perbacco in La Morra.
46 Federica Mignacca spends her life between Mignano Monte Lungo (Ce), Rome, Naples and Piedmont. She graduated in Languages in Information Society at the Faculty of Letters of the University of Rome Tor Vergata. In 2017, following joining Slow Food and participating in national and regional events such as Sementia, dedicated to ancient grains, she decided to actively explore this world. “Pizza Culture” organized by Slow Food Italy and the University of Gastronomic Sciences in collaboration with Ferrarelle was the first step towards the world of the art of baking. In Naples at Casa De Rinaldi, alongside the master pizza makers Salvatore and Cristiano De Rinaldi, Federica deepened her interest in research in the pizza sector, between tradition and innovation, paying great attention to raw materials. Mother yeast, soft wheat, wholemeal, multigrain and gluten-free mixtures are the object of daily study and comparison.
After obtaining the third place in the Central-Southern Italy selections in the under 35 category, in July 2019 she participated in the Neapolitan Pizza Olympics at the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, ranking fifth, the only woman among the top ten in the category. A few months later, she was one of the four protagonists of the Pizza Girls broadcast on the television channel La5. In 2022, she won the Best Baker award at the Olympics of the True Neapolitan Pizza (on a par with Salvatore Santucci) and ranked first among the women competing in the “Pizza Verace” section. Federica defines herself as an "anarchist pizza chef"; a definition that has its roots in her studies and which in particular draws its cue from a passage from "The Anarchist Banker" by Fernando Pessoa. Being an "anarchist pizza chef" in my professional life means having a "community-centered" vision of pizza. The final product becomes an expression of the territory; it becomes the story of those who produce the raw materials, of craftsmanship, of history and tradition. Protagonists of our times who, in their own sector of competence, make raw materials available by individually pursuing the same community values, so are united morally. It is no longer necessary for the pizza chef to be the absolute protagonist, but the territory and the resources that make up the community.
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Ah l’è prop bon!
PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
OH THAT’S SO GOOD! BY FEDERICA MIGNACCA, MONTANARINA STORY Method Opening pre-dough Procedure: pour the flour into the mixer. Dissolve the previously diluted yeast in water. Pour the water into the flour, leaving the kneader on at medium speed, for about 3 minutes. Engage reverse gear for one minute. Remove the dough and place in a tall, narrow container. As the dough has low hydration, it will appear rough and unmixed. Cover with cling film and keep at 18°C / 64.4°F for 18 h.
OPENING PRE-DOUGH: flour 0 (strength 300W)
1700 (3lb 12oz)
water
750ml (25.36 US fl oz / 26.4 UK fl oz)
yeast
1g (0.035 oz)
CLOSING OF THE PRE-DOUGH: water salt oil
400ml (13.53 US fl oz / 14.07 UK fl oz) 56g (2 oz)
134g (1.2 oz)
Closing of the pre-dough Pour the pre-dough, which at this point will be doubled, into the kneader. Pour in half the water and let it run at medium speed for 4 minutes. Continue to drizzle in the water constantly, until completely absorbed (in about 10 minutes in all). Pour in the oil, let it absorb and add the salt, increasing the speed to maximum, for about 3-4 minutes. When the mixture appears smooth and the classic "pumpkin" is formed, in the case of spiral mixers, stop the machine and put the dough on the work surface. Cover with a damp cloth.
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RECIPES
TOPPINGS: fiordilatte
100 g (3.53 oz)
potatoes
40 g (1.41 oz)
oil Bra sausage
50 g (1.76 oz)
cream of Carmagnola peppers Castelmagno cheese flakes 15 g (0.53 oz) fresh basil leaves
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FEDERICA MIGNACCA
Cutting: After about 45 minutes, proceed to the cutting of the balls of weight between 280300g (9.9 – 10.6 oz). Put them in boxes, cover the dough leaving it for about two hours at room temperature. Subsequently, place in the fridge at 7°C (44.6°F) and the following day, remove from the fridge an hour before cooking. Seasoning: Roll out the dough by pushing the air from the center of the dough towards the edges, to form the cornice. Top evenly with: 100g (3.53 oz) of fiordilatte and 40g (1.41 oz) of potatoes with a drizzle of oil. Cooking: Proceed to cooking the pizza at about 400420°C (752 -788°F). After cooking: Arrange evenly: 50g (1.76 oz) of Bra sausage, cream of Carmagnola peppers and 15g (0.53 oz) of Castelmagno cheese flakes, fresh basil leaves
THE PIZZA BASES YOU WOULDN’T EXPECT With 100% italian flours • With Sourdough Over 24 hours leavening • High hydratation Indirect dought with “biga” method Worked and stretched out by hand
4 RECIPES Classic Noir with 100% italian black rice
Wholemeal with 100% italian ancient grain flour With cereals and seeds
3 SIZES Round Rectangular mono Rectangular maxi
GRECI INDUSTRIA ALIMENTARE s.p.a. Strada Traversante Ravadese, 58 - 43122 Parma, Italy - www.greci.com @greci_industriaalimentare @greciindustriaalimentare @greciindustriaalimentare
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BY DOMENICO MARIA JACOBONE
Catering and Technology:
W E O F TE N UN DE RESTIMATE THE TECHN O LO GI CA L T RA N S ITION THAT CATER I N G HAS A LWAYS GONE THROUGH: THI N K I N G A BOUT IT, HOW MANY — 50 TI ME S HAV E WE D ISCUSSED INN OVATI ON OVER A ME AL? How many lunches or dinners have scientists, technicians, innovators, robotics-related personalities, economists had together? Imagine having in the 90s Bill Gates or Steve Jobs at your table who described to you how technology would change the next 20 years of the world, some things we would have hardly even been able to imagine. I refer to the 90s because they are a milestone in the technological transition of catering: while in Italy we used pen and paper for orders, in 1994 a Pizza Hut store in Santa Cruz, California, published the
first, rudimentary website about pizza on the newly born World Wide Web, with the possibility to order pizzas on PizzaNet online using a basic form: history had its first food e-commerce! If you happened to be living in Santa Cruz in 1994, you could have sat down at your computer, opened your favourite browser and then ordered a pizza online. Any web user could connect online, visit pizza.net, fill out a form that included the choice of pizza, address and telephone number and have a pizza delivered directly to their home. The web was not designed exactly for this purpose, but the genius and ambition of a restaurateur changed history. In this article we will discuss the opportunities that the world of technology in the service of catering offers today: I have chosen not to in-
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clude names because the companies that produce innovation for catering are many and have various approaches. When choosing your next partner, be curious and listen to at least a couple of different proposals for the product you are looking for, you will almost certainly find one that best meets your needs. In the autumn of 2022, the opportunities offered by technology are almost endless: Google "hosts" the first public interface of the restaurant thanks to Google my Business, which provides us with an online listing for free, the ability to enter a geolocated address, opening hours / closure, telephone contacts, emails, reviews, photos and even a free mini-site that you can put together yourself. All absolutely free, also giving us access to a small but precious page of analytics that shows us how many people have searched for our restaurant, in what days and time slot, if they have phoned or asked for directions via Google, if they use an Apple or Android smartphone. Always free! Taking advantage of this tool represents a real door to the digital world and means "existing" also on the web; and today we can no longer ignore it! Once inside the restaurant, we can take advantage of technologies that offer various amounts of help: starting from the kitchen, we have supports that relieve us of the
CATERING AND TECHNOLOGY
tasks that were once done by hand (kneading, for example), we find multifunction ovens and temperatures with which cooking at different temperatures at the same time, robots capable of preparing excellent salads. Today, connected software helps us to manage the restaurant, tables and orders, the priorities among different dishes that have to “go out” all together from the plonge to go to be served at the table at the same time. The same software can update stock based on the orders received during the day and propose an editable “shopping list" based on consumption, at the end of the evening. We have software that warns us that a product is about to expire, that a supplier has not delivered the raw materials ordered, or refrigerators that can show us their interior with a camera and do the shopping independently. In a mod- 51 — ern restaurant, with well-catalogued stockroom, products and recipes, we could manage all sourcing and supplier management with a simple click. By the way, you no longer need to have a "ledger" with recipes, everything can be stored on a usb stick: maybe making 2 or 3 copies to keep in different places, you never know what can happen... We can remain "connected" with our loyal customers at any time through social media, from
how innovation will revolutionise the restaurant.
Slices// Slices Facebook to Instagram to Google, with an App, sponsoring inviting content that makes your mouth water and the desire to order dishes and receive them comfortably at home or book a table and come and sit in the restaurant.
The management of our customers' contacts, which can no longer be casual, deserves particular attention: it is crucial today to work daily to build a database that collects information about our customers. We have to study and implement a new routine, understand the value of building a real "relationship" with the customer, which goes far beyond the collection of data for its own sake but translates into marketing strategies aimed at each individual, based on their specific — 52 characteristics. This activity, which is underestimated by many, helps us to better understand who our customers are and to offer them targeted offers. To give some examples: name, surname, gender, date of birth and birthday, spending possibilities, tastes and preferences, anniversaries and important dates, frequency of visits to the restaurant, interest in online orders, favourite dish, etc. Until a few years ago, in the primordial management of the first checkout systems, we were satisfied with having the companies registered to issue receipts and invoices faster, optimising the flow of customers at the end of the meal. Today, data is worth much more than we are used to imagining, it can guide choices, shift the centre of gravity of our business, attract (or, if badly managed, reject) customers and significantly increase the value of our business, the recognition of goodwill, also move important economic parameters.
BY DOMENICO MARIA JACOBONE
Fortunately, thanks to the most modern technologies, there are various tools that can support you in the management of old and above all new daily activities. In our restaurant we can have menus on tablets, menus in the cloud with QR Code to be read by our customers on their smartphones, virtual menus and remote ordering systems via the app. We always keep some emergency paper copies, but think about managing the paper menu during the Covid 19 pandemic: paper cannot be sanitised! Or think about how many times a last minute change has generated unnecessary reprint and lamination costs. In a complex period like the one experienced in the last two years, the virtual menu was not a habit, but a common necessity for all restaurants. Some software to be managed independently or a good
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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES CONFORME H.A.C.C.P.
webmaster can help you transform this need into virtue: the online rules relating to space and layout are different from those of the paper menu. You can list the dishes with a link through which to show a photo, explain the recipe or tell the story of that dish that comes directly from the tradition handed down by our family. Take advantage of this opportunity above all to make the menu properly usable in at least two languages, paying the right attention to the drafting of the texts, starting with Italian and English for foreigners without limiting yourself to a mere translation of the ingredients. The online menus, having no physical "space" problems, give us the extraordinary opportunity to communicate with customers in 3-4-5 languages (again, think about how useful it is to know where in Italy,
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or abroad, your annual customers come to your restaurant from). When translating texts into a foreign language, which must be done by a professional, work to ensure that photos and descriptions are clear even to those unfamiliar with our national cuisine. A classic example is that if you read it as a "list of ingredients" translated into English, our carbonara pasta could look like a pasta and bacon omelette! Technology cannot and must not replace human value in catering, the virtual menu should still be followed and recommended by the waiter in the dining room, as by online artificial intelligence. However experienced, the customer always needs a word of comfort, a comparison or more — 54 simply some advice. As far as web interfaces are concerned, having an App in addition to the classic website means being able to be physically “in the pockets” of all our customers through the mobile phone. Think that with a simple click you could send a notification to thousands of customers at the same time, communicating a new dish, dedicated offers, a promotion etc.
BY DOMENICO MARIA JACOBONE
Even online reviews, the mixed blessing of every restaurateur, can be better managed with the support of software, an impartial virtual assistant with a conciliatory character, to help you. Imagine receiving one of the worst reviews ever received, perhaps published on Saturday evening while you are busy with a full house at the restaurant: it could remain unmanaged for a few days, while you have more urgent priorities to deal with, and unfortunately in the meantime give a bad image and change the choice of restaurant of potential customers looking for information. Fortunately, today you could have immediate management, thanks to the use of artificial intelligence, which is able to draft a first response and report the negative opinion expressed in real time (on social networks, sites, TripAdvisor, etc.) so that you can im-
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CATERING AND TECHNOLOGY
mediately manage and protect the image of your restaurant in the best possible way. The 2022 customer can choose to connect to the restaurant with many tools, such as the internet, apps, marketplaces, social media; it is important to be careful in managing what happens, especially with the various intermediaries. Delivery platforms, booking platforms or large marketplaces represent a filter that captures customer data instead us of and, during intermediation, prevents us from acquiring their references directly. When managing orders, we always try to understand who our customers are, especially those who have come to us indirectly. Another important help, precisely in the management of the many external operators, platforms etc are the aggregators, software which simplifies the life of those who receive orders or reservations online, putting all the orders received in order of priority, geographical area or the parameter we want to set, on a single screen. Even delivery today can be done directly with means and tools that were unthinkable until a few years ago: portable refrigerated counters, ventilated ovens for deliveries at a stable and dehumidified temperature, pizza boxes that absorb or dispose of humidity externally, electric vehicles that can enter city centers. We are increasingly connected with virtual reality and customers also through physical tools, but we never forget that, even when covered by masks, smiles and courtesy towards our customers, whether they are to be served at the table or at home, are a crucial tool that currently no technology can replace.
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RECIPES
R
GIANNI DI LELLA
E
Gianni di Lella
PIZZERIA LA BUFALA IN MARANELLO (MODENA)
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The story of Gianni Di Lella and the pizzeria La Bufala in Maranello starts from afar. He was born in Naples and moved to the symbolic city of the Ferrari but also, like the whole province of Modena, of work and good food, in 2010 - thanks to the efforts of his father Giovanni and his determination - the Di Lella family opened their pizzeria which, in less than a decade, has become a recognised point of reference in Italy. What used to be a small take-away pizzeria has been transformed into a restaurant with refined quality and selection of raw materials. A passion that has become a profession, but at the same time capable of maintaining that family atmosphere that has always been a great strength, fundamental for the relationship of trust and affection created over the years with its customers.
Now, in the city of the Ferrari and cars, contemporary pizza has a name: whether it is for the World Pizza Championships or for the Awards, collaborations with Michelin-starred chefs or the most innovative creations such as 'Era una lasagna' or sweet pizzas, it is always the La Bufala pizzeria.
Tortellone I dell’appennino
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DOUGH: 00 flour
rice
soy
Modenese
TOPPINGS:
Method
Campania fiordilatte buffalo ricotta Porcini from Monte Cimone
P
36-month Parmigiano Reggiano wild herbs Modenese Apennines
E
TORTELLONE FROM THE MODENESE APENNINES "We have a dough matured for 48 hours at a controlled temperature with only mother yeast. For the dough wholemeal 00 flour, rice and soy to make it tastier and richer in minerals. For the base, Campania fiordilatte, buffalo ricotta, Porcini from Monte Cimone, 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano and wild herbs from the Modenese Apennines."
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PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture magazine Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 n. 9/bis, October, 2022 English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768
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EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Antonio Puzzi EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Donatella Dorigo ADVERTISING David Mandolin PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 Fax +39 0421 83178 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it follow us
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COLOPHON
GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo, Paola Dus — Mediagraf lab ILLUSTRATIONS by Giulia Serafin PRINTING OFFICE MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) - ITALY EDITORIAL AND TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Marisa Cammarano, Alfonso Del Forno, David Mandolin, Virgilio Pronzati, Caterina Vianello.
ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana U.S.A. Pizza Today, P.M.Q. – TEL +39 0421 212348 FAX +39 0421 83178
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Since 1990, Pizza e Pasta Italiana has been the Italian magazine of reference for professionals working in the pizza sector. As the organiser of international events such as the Pizza World Championship, Pizza e Pasta Italiana magazine tells the story of pizza over time, in Italy and in the world, through scientific articles, interviews with professionals, thematic insights on toppings, ingredients and specialities, processing techniques and new trends, with a constant spirit of service towards the restaurateur.
Slices is a print and digital publishing project that continues to grow by looking into some of the basic raw materials to make pizza to perfection. "Slices" of culture for professionals only, offering them a practical and immediate tool to progressively contribute to spreading knowledge of raw materials, processing techniques, technologies and the most suitable tools to prepare, with passion and love, one of the most loved dishes in the world. /Grains- Part 05 /Toppings, ingredients and specialities - Part 06 Second edition:
/Pizza equipment and supplies - Part 07 Upcoming publications:
/Mozzarella, cheeses and ingredients - Part 08
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