year XXVII
— the english issue —
p. 4
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
ADVERTISER INDEX Ambrogi Forni
p. 65
Beretta F.lli
p. 45
p. 120,121
Birra Menabrea
p. 120,121
Botalla Formaggi Castelli Forni Coldline
p. 91 p. 99
Cuboxal
p. 131
Cuppone
p. 41
Dell’Oro
p. 71
Dr. Zanolli
p. 51
Elangrill
p. 109
Eredi Malaguti
p. 107 p. 98
Fiera di Dubai - Gulfood Fiera di Milano – Host
p. 73
Fiera di Rimini – Sigep
p. 64
Fiera di Shangai - Hotelex
p. 122
Forni Dorigo
p. 29
Gam International
p. 95
Gi - Metal
p. 17
Italmill
p. 46, 47, 52, 53
Krupps
p. 77
Labi Beer
p. 132
Latteria Sorrentina
p. 103
Lilly Codroipo
p. 31
Liner
p. 61
Marana Forni Marra Forni Millberg
p. 33 p. 62, 63 p. 123
Molino Agugiaro e Figna
p. 38, 39
Molino Caputo
p. 92, 93
Molino Dalla Giovanna
p. 82, 83
Molino Pasini
p. 66, 67
Molino Spigadoro
p. 119
Mutti
p. 119
Olio Monini
p. 119
Olio Redoro
p. 115
Pastaline Prontofresco Greci
p. 87 p. 21
Refrattari Valoriani
p. 74, 75
Rinaldi Super Forni
p. 59
Sanfelici Franco S.r.l
p. 79
Sitta
p. 97
Smoky Elettromeccanica
p. 81
Stefano Ferrara Forni Tamai Equipment Techfood Viander
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
p. 7 p. 25 p. 8, 9 p. 57
6 COMMENTARY by Giampiero Rorato
10 WHO WE ARE by Giampiero Rorato
14 PIZZA WORLD
CHAMPIONSHIP 2016
18 LET’S TAKE STOCK OF THE FIRST YEAR OF EXPO
— Italy is quickly renewing and we should its proud leading actors
by Giampiero Rorato
22 ITALIAN RESTAURANTS:
26 HISTORICAL REFERENCES TO PIZZA by Giampiero Rorato
34
4
— Four Interpretations of pizza
42
AROUND THE WORLD WITH PIZZAS
Expression and image of our country by Nives Piva
by D.M.
p. 5
THE RESTAURANTS by Giampiero Rorato
48 — Berton in Milan
54 — Antonello Colonna 68 THE INTERVIEW — Luigi Biasetto, international chef by Giampiero Rorato
76 THE RETURN OF THE ANCIENT ITALIAN GRAINS — Bakers, pastry chefs and pizzaioli who are using ancient grains are always more and more and also the grains selected by Italian geneticists along time. di Laura Nascinben
88
116
FLOURS
SAN BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
flours characteristics and purposes by Marina Carcea
100
by Virgilio Pronzati
THE SECTOR OF REFRIGERATION
— Refrigeration is the key element of modern cooking by Caterina Orlandi
104 — Baking The Pizza and The Different Pizza Ovens
124 SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI
by Caterina Orlandi
110 — The wonderful world of olive oil
84 — A conversation about yeast and more by D.M.
— Brunello di Montalcino, ambassador to the world of the great Italian winemaking
by Dr. Marisa Cammarano
— The school for professionals in Italy and abroad
c p. 6
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
ommentary
Italian high quality Made in Italy products are known and loved everywhere in the World and it seemed right to edit also for 2016 an English issue of Pizza e Pasta Italiana, our magazine that has reached now 27 years of publication. Pizza e Pasta Italiana helps the World learn about Italian food and beverage products and also about new food equipment for the restaurants and hotels.
by Giampiero Rorato Above all, I would like to stress the high quality of the Italian foods that are there to serve the catering industry, such as wine, extravirgin olive oil, cheese, ham and cured meat, fruit and vegetables; all these products are already good by nature, and then are skilfully cultivated by farmers, who are able to enhance what nature gives.
The passage from the fertile Italian farm land to the tables around the world requies the intervention of the right technologies, not to waste what nature gave and to grant consumers the highest level of hygine, of nutritional values and goodness. In the following pages, the reader will be able to see many Italian food and equipment products, and they are the best a food operatorconfectioner, a bread and pizza baker and a would want.
The following pages express, and we say it with great pleasure, the pride of the Italian work, known internationally, and we like to remind this because Italian companies strive very hard not to loose this primate, conquered in many years of hard work. We wish that the proposals cointaned in the following pages will be looked at with interest and are usefull to those people anywhere in the world, who work in such an important field like that of catering.
www.giampierororato.blogspot.com
PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture magazine Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 Year XXVII - 2016,January, Nr. 1/bis English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi ADVERTISING Patrizio Carrer, Caterina Orlandi PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 - Fax +39 0421 81007 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it
GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo and Paola Dus — mediagraflab.it DIGITAL PUBLISHING Maura Trolese — mediagraflab.it COVER ILLUSTRATED BY Antonella Manenti PRINTING OFFICE MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) - ITALY EDITORIAL AND TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Marisa Cammarano, Patrizio Carrer, Virgilio Pronzati, Giuseppe Dell’Aquila, Tony Gemignani (U.S.A.), David Mandolin, Gianandrea Rorato, Gianluca Rorato, Federica Zanata, Caterina Vianello, Laura Nascimben, Fabio Iacozzilli PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA INTERNATIONAL Jim Winship (Pizza & Pasta Association, Inghilterra) Pete La Chapelle (N.A.P.O. - Pizza Today, U.S.A.), P.M.Q. Steve Green (U.S.A.)Abbie Jarman (Pizza, U.S.A.) Hidenao Takahashi (Pan World Inc., Giappone) Kazuko Nagamoto (ICT, Giappone) Takeshi Tanaka (Quattro
Stagioni, Giappone) Drew McCarthy (Canadian Pizza Magazine, Canada) Roberto Bresciani (Pizza y Restauration, Spagna), Valeria Vairo (Buongiorno Italia). ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS
FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana SPAGNA RRR Revista de Restauración Rapida, Pizza y Restauración U.S.A. Pizza Today, Pizza, P.M.Q. Steve Green INGHILTERRA Pizza, Pasta & Italian Food GERMANIA Buongiorno Italia – TEL +39 0421 83148 FAX +39 0421 81007
p. 10
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
WHO WE ARE
P
izza e pasta italiana has been for
27 years the world leading
magazine in food and pizza sector. this is the 5th edition of our
renown magazine, pizza e pasta italiana in english for the international markets for all those people who are involved in the high end pizza products. a brief journey through raw materials, baking techniques, recipes, great food personalities, who are making history in our gastronomy of excellence.
p. 11
T
he editor of this magazine, Pizza New Spa, was among the first one to believe in the branch of pizza, which with time from a poor food, spread above all around Italy, became a nutritionally complete food, made by first order professionals. Pizza e Pasta Italiana could only have been an Italian product! Italy is historically the world food cradle and the land of pizza from the earliest times. We as Italians, proudly promote our knowledge and our excellent products casted in an international environment. Pizza is a democratic and convivial food, apparently simple but highly complex. It is very difficult To make and bake a good pizza, and this is why through this pizza we strive to offer our many readers around the world, a panoramic as complete as possible, rich in techniques, recipes, tricks, reportages, technologies, and news which accompany this dynamic sector. In Pizza e Pasta Italiana, you will nevertheless find the more classic catering, because we believe that
education both of chefs and pizzaioli has to be at 360°, and because we strive that every professional category is able to find hints, crossings and common ground with the work of others. The editor of this magazine, that in Italy is released every month and that you can find in English for free as an application on Apple Store, is not only strictly the sheer editor, but it is also the organizer of the world most known pizza event, the Pizza World Championship. This event is held every year in Italy for 25 years, and represents the world meeting point for all pizza lovers around the world. During three days of show, operators, pizza chefs and entrepreneurs can meet each other, and confront each other on a common ground. The 2016 edition will be held in Parma, in the heart of the Italian food valley, from April 11 to 13. Let’s complete the conspectus of our activities saying that our passion for pizza and professional catering is completed by the work of the
International School of Pizza, private professional school born in late 80s in Italy. The school teaches newbies and professionals new methods and techniques. You will find more detailed information on our schools and education activities.
We wish you a joyful reading, and we invite you to follow us on the different editorial channels:
www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it
www.worldpizzachampionship.it
— what: 25TH WORLD PIZZA CHAMPIONSHIP — where: PARMA - ITALY – how: Register on line or call the following phone-number +39 (0) 421 - 83148 – when: April 11-13, 2016 – why: A unique occasion, for learning, experimenting and getting involved with the main experts of the sector. YOU COULD BE THE NEXT WORLD CHAMPION
apr. 11/13 2016
YOU C BE TH WORL CHAM
COULD HE NEXT LD PIZZA MPION... mediagraflab.it
WWW.WORLDPIZZACHAMPIONSHIP.COM
PIZZA WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP p. 14
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
VALUE AND MEANING OF AN EXTRAORDINARY EVENT
The most important world level event for the world of the pizza, conceived, promoted and organized by this Magazine and by its ownership, will reach its 25th edition in the upcoming month of April.
by Giampiero Rorato
In its background, there is therefore a long, solid and nonstop tradition that every year has seen gathered as pizzaioli of every part of the world and, together with them, entrepreneurs of equipment and producers of raw material for pizzerias. Its first edition took place in 1990 in Castrocaro Terme, later on in Viareggio to finally move to Salsomaggiore Terme, all places enhanced at a world level by this event. The event, also wanted by many Italian cities for the enormous turnover it generates, for two years now it is held in Parma, European capital of food and wine, in the prestigious building of Palacassa, next to the Convention Center.
Therefore, this year, it will take place from 11 to 13 of April, with the attendance of many pizzaioli from all around Europe, from America, from North Africa, Asia and Australia.
For any further information, don’t hesitate to contact: info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it
p. 15
THE KNOWLEDGE This event, unique at international level, has also been designed for a series of reasons. Above all, pizza-bakers, who before were alone in their work, thanks to this magazine and to the World Pizza Championship have finally gained the chance to be introduced in an international network, where they can meet each other, exchange information, evaluate operating techniques, and extraordinary friendships were born, which bound pizzaioli form every continent.
The human aspect has gained and continues to gain a prominent importance and next to it, it has developed a new and modern culture of pizza that has allowed the many hundreds of pizza-makers registered to the event, and every year this some new, to have precious confrontations, deepen the knowledge of products and to learn more about new products and techniques on yeasts, dough mixes, fermentation and toppings.
This all represents the cultural and professional soul of the Pizza World Championship and thousands of pizza bakers who during the previews 24 years have taken part, and went home with a rich expertise that helped them to grow a lot.
p. 16
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
THE EVENT The most prominent aspect of the Pizza World Championship is represented by the different pizza events thought to enhance and valorize at best vocations and skills of participants and the list of the categories is enough to understand well the complexity of the event more in general. Pizza-bakers compete, in other words, to conquer the title of Pizza World Champion in the following categories: Classic
For any further information, don’t hesitate to contact: info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it
Pizza, Pizza in the pan, Pizza on the peel, Neapolitan STG pizza, Gluten free pizza, Pizza for two (pizzaiolo and chef), Artistic pizza, Heinz Beck Trophy (for first dishes made by chefs working in a pizzeria), the largest, the fastest, Single Free style, Team free style. Therefore there are 12 specialities and to the World Pizza Championship around 600 competitors are admitted, selected
through other exhibitions, among which the European Championship and Giropizza of Europe, that take place in the main European cities in occasion of the most important food exhibitions. For the 2016 edition, the preselection rounds have started in the Fall of 2015, in New Zealand and Australia and then it will be the turn of Shanghai and many more nations where pizza represents Italy.
Until this moment, it has always been like this, and in the previews 24 editions also pizzaioli before unknown, confined in secluded areas, thanks to the winning and to the title of Pizza World Championship have obtained and continue to obtain those satisfactions and that economic success that continues to prolong along time.
These are all the many reasons for which the Pizza World Championship obtains a great success among pizza-bakers of the whole world, moves broadcasting stations and the press, attracting many food personalities, important journalists, famous artists and qualified equipment and food entrepreneurs who present the latest products to the launched on the market.
THE MEANING As you can clearly understand, pizzabakers who gain the podium during the great gala evening with the title of Pizza World Championship lure the interest of the media, press, tv both national and local, thus obtaining fame which translates into business success.
pallino.it pallino.it
WHEN A WORK WHENBECOMES A WORK A WORK OF ART
E IN ITALY MADE IN ITALY
BECOMES A WORK OF ART A pizza-maker’s job is made up of moves and the many small details that GI.METAL has carefully pursued for thirty years. A pizza-maker’s job is made up of moves and the many small details thatthe GI.METAL has carefully for thirty years. Meeting pizza maker’s needspursued has been our passion. This is the
reasonMeeting we design the strongest, most efficient and ergonomic the pizza maker’s needs has been our passion. This istools the that we then manufacture in Italy. This is our contribution to ensuring reason we design the strongest, most efficient and ergonomic tools thatpizza we then manufacture This is our to ensuring that your continues to bein aItaly. tasty work of contribution art recognized that your continues to be a tasty work of art recognized throughout the pizza world. throughout the world.
gimetal.it gimetal.it Gi.Metal Gi.Metal
Tradition and 1986 Tradition andprogress progress since since 1986
p. 18
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
LET’S TAKE STOCK OF THE FIRST YEAR OF EXPO ITALY IS QUICKLY RENEWING AND WE SHOULD BE ITS PROUD LEADING ACTORS
by Giampiero Rorato
p. 19
THE FIRST YEAR OF EXPO 2015 was the year of Expo, thus a revolutionary and positive year for Italy. It was the year of Expo, Milan, a high level cultural event which has drawn from every continent more than 20 milion visitors, taking the world to face the great themes of famean to be defeated and energy sustenability, simply saying that the planet sources forests included, should not be exploited, but be there for generation sto follow. Undoubtedly Expo, has created more awareness, both in Italy and in the world, leading to a process – in which the Milan Protocol in one of the aspects – able to involve more that in the past humanity in the fight to famen, to the criminal exploitation of the planet and to the waste of energies necessary to life.
E
xpo, we should not forget, ha sdrawn milion of foregners to Italy, many more than in the previows years, feeding the tourist economy that has taken vantage in the whole peninsula, helping many to reknew and modernize. Expo has shown everybody, in Italy and in the World, the great organizational capacity of Italians, pillorying those who where hoping for the insucess of this event. Italy, with Expo, but not only with it, has shown its great planning capacities, deserving to gain more and more floor in the International scene. Those who love Italy, and true Italianslove it indeed, should be proud of this extraordianry success that once more has shown the World that Italy truly is a great country with the capacity and thus the right to have a say as a main character in International matters, even the most critical such as the Mediteranean problems , from North Africa to Siria and the Near Western World, contributing
to the regain of those populations to conditions of peace and living, and this is in the world interest. Furthermore in Italy, during 2015, there were many great changes in the institutional outlay, with a new law in the work industry, the reform of the public administration, that has just started, but that ha sto take on very rapidly to eliminate the harmful, which slows down the development and damages citizens.
p. 20
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
The abolition of the elective Senate; the beginning of a schoold reform to make it more effective; finally a serious attention to the world of culture and musuem legacy. We can stophere, because it is under everybody’s eyes what its happening to make Italy a more modern, a more serious and loved country in Europe. This magazine has always been on the European side, and it could have not been different, having the Giropizza of Europea s one of the jewels on its crown. But it must be said that Italians dream of a more solidary Europe, capable of taking positively part to the International matters, since the 29 countries forming the European Union , represent, if truly united, one of the most advanced institutional realities, with the best agricolture, the best catering industry, the greatest industries, excellent colleges and a stronger economy.
A unified Europe, more modern, more responsible; this is the kind of Europe that has been deemed by the founding fathers after the last world war and this is what people want. Wether talking about pizzas or gourmet dishes made by starred restaurant, the rule is the same for all and by following the quality level, giving a great contribution to the International touris, capable of increasing job places, occupy new chefs and pizzaioli, new water, new receptionists. This magazine has been working for more than 25 years to lead to this path, that is mandatory in order to grow, knowing that only by growing one can reach to the right personal glories, professional and economical, furthermore giving splendour to our country.
IT N E p. 22
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
by Nives Piva
italian restaurants:
Expression and image of our country
image under
View of Cascina Triulza, Expo
image above
Italian Minister for agricolture, Maurizio Martina
TALY EXPO p. 23
image above
All the starred chefs who were also ambassadors for Expo, during the gathering that took place at Cascina Triulza in Milan, on July 28th
I
n the middle of the summer, during Expo in Milan, the second Forum of the Italian Cuisine was held, called by the Government, with starred chefs and cooks, part of one of the closed Italian groups. Already here some perplexities arise, just like the little known division of the Italian cooks, in more or less visible groups and than if it’s necessary to look up at a guide to learn the names of the famous chefs following the French method, and inside the guide, one is able to find the differnt groups. It is thus true that the 40 chefs gathered in Milan at the end of July are known for excellency in the work, but a more realistic expression of the Italiana cuisine should have more ample and exusive horizons, spreading the eye on all the regions.
This premises detects the necessity that the relationship between Italian catering and institutions, more and more necessary takes into account the complex reality of catering and of the world that evolves around it , not staying only with one group even if illustrous. During the meeting of July 28th at Cascina Triulza in Milan, after listening to the questions of some chefs conveened there, the ministero f agricolture Maurizio Martina stated that the Governament asnwers to a need for real enhancement by rafting the Food Act and he made clear that:�The Food Act is an agreement among between institutions and the world of the Italian high quality cuisine. A team work to improve the enhancement of the Italian food world. The first ten actions aim to fix clear objectives, with innovative and operational goal to be constatly aimed
at. An operation, that starts, not only as a symbol, from Expo 2015, and it finds its cradle in the permanent forum. We would like to build a paretica and farsighted aproach that has as its goal to find solutions, remove obstacles, first those with burocracy, for the growth of the sector. The world asks for more Italy, above all when talking about food. We need to work as a group, in order for the chances that we have before u sto be taken. We need to leave behind all uncertaintes and the fragmentation of public interventions to support these kind of initiatives, thus favouring the connections and the dialogue among the different actors of the system. The role of chefs in this contest becomes strategic, they are the ambassadors of the Italian cuisine in the world. The food ac twill help us being even stronger and more coordinated.�
actor
p. 24
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
the actors of the system
The Minister has than stated that in order to reach the goals fixed and in other words enhance and promote always better in Italy and in the world the Italian catering giving room for action without running late, just like happens because of burocracy, inspections, dealing costs) it is neccesary to gather around the same table all the actors of the system. At present, the Governement, the conference of Regions and selfstanding municipalities. There are also other important actors of the system, Cooking schools which prepare the future workers of the industry, and that sending out students for stages hold a relationship with the restaurants; later on the world of pizza, that occupies a great slice of the catering Italian sector; and then the Italian Cuisine Accademy that is the only cultural institution of the sector, officially reknown by the State and it is spread al lover Italy playing a big role also abroad. Naturally, the media, who can launch or destroy a restaurnat , is fundamental to make not only International gourmets know but also the excellency of the Italian and catering Italian industry.
Finally, and it must be said out loud, after years of poor interest, the Italian government is actively interested into the Italian cuisine, to undestrand problems and find the way to solve them, necessary premises to make the italian cuisine a milestone for the Italian economy. And if at the forum in July, there was also the Minister Martina, the Minister Dario Franceschini (Culture and Tourism) and Stefania Giannini (Education) meand that for those working in the catering industry, enterpreneurs, chefs, maitres, water and cook school teachers. This is really our wish, but it is necessary that the world of catering presents the governemnt concrete proposals, knowing that more than the usual contributions , not always spread evenly, account for laws and regulations that deburocartize the system, which define the real income of catering companies, favoruing also the summer stages of students nontheless those coming from abroad, who are willing and ready to learn the Italian art of coking and export it, with success in their origin countries.
image above
Italiana Culture and Tourism Minister, Dario Franceschini
image above
Italiana Education Minister, Stefania Giannini
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p. 26
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
P
HISTORICAL REFERENCES TO PIZZA
by Giampiero Rorato
izza dates back to the origins of the human civilization, starting with the simple dough cake, cooked between hot stones and used to fill out a range of other foods. Pizza, as a thin flat cake, was therefore the early unleavened bread of mankind. It prehistoric times the flat cakes ( called also focaccia, because they were cooked in the ashes of live coals of the fire fuoco) incorporated all the components of the grain, including the bran, and as a result were rather coarse, since the seeds had to be crushed in traditional mortars with pestles of stone or hard wood. However, it is difficult to discuss flat cakes, and therefore pizza or bread, without reference to the production of cereals as organised agriculture that appeared among our ancestors some 10,000 years ago. Farming became possible at the end of the last glacial period and flourished in the so-called “Fertile Crescent “, the wetlands confined by the rivers Nile, Tigris, Euphrates and Jordan. Soon the farming of crops spread to the Orient, in particular to India and China, and almost contemporarily to
p. 27
Turkey, Greece and the rest of Europe. With the discovery of agriculture early man started to lead a more secure and calm life, gradually eliminating the risks of hunting, insecurities bestowed by erratic seasons, the dangers posed by violent tempests and droughts, and particularly eliminating the nomadic lifestyle that previously dictated survival. At the beginning of land cultivation the first plants produced by man himself were cereals, usually grown in hilly zones, where they already prospered in natural state. To start with, our forefathers fed on roasted grains, later supplemented with soups, which were prepared by leaving seeds in water to soak, thus making them much easier to digest. Gradually, as food became more refined and digestible, the human form took on different aspects, closer to a semblance with modern man. In particular the ever increasing digesting facility was transforming jaw and teeth, a process which steadily distanced mankind from the animal species. So the issue of digestibility of food kept pace with an evolution of human species. The first cereal among human foodstuffs was without doubt millet, followed by barley, oat, rye, sorghum, foxtail millet, spelt, wild einkorn and emmer wheat, all the plants which were present in natural state, but in varying quantities
and in different parts of the world. As a consequence of great population migrations certain types of cereals became known in areas where they did not exist previously. When Indo-Aryan tribes migrated to India, around 2000 BC, they discovered that oat was already widespread there. Nevertheless, they imposed cultivation of barley, maintaining that men, in order to be robust soldiers, must eat only that cereal. For thousands of years barley and oats dominated the food markets of the planet, with varying success, according to the habits and beliefs of different populations, and all without scientific encouragement. In Homer’s time the Greeks, as we all can read for ourselves, used to roast barley and use it extensively in flat cakes, while at the same time they looked down on the Scythians who were eating oats, comparing them to horses. The Romans, especially contemporaries of Cato in the 2nd century AC, maintained that oats should be eradicated like a weeds. In fact, the Romans despised the Germanic tribes because of their fondness for eating oats. The first flatbreads were manufactured with pounded seeds of barley, kneaded with water, shaped into round forms (not larger than 23 cm in diameter), which were then baked on hot stones, as confirmed by finds at more that one archaeological site. Farinata (a type of
pancake), obtained from the pounded grains cooked in water on hot stones, became a staple food for thousands of years. When the Egyptians discovered the uses of yeast the way was open to the appearance of leavened bread, lighter and more easier to digest. This was the bread that conquered the world, and became a barter commodity until the introduction of minted coins. An Egyptian priest was paid, as shown in various surviving documents, (from Turin and London museums, for example, in displays devoted to the ancient Egyptians), with focacce (flat breads) and other foodstuffs. Annual salary of a priest in Ancient Egypt:
> 360 jugs of beer > 900 wheat breads > 36000 focacce
p. 28
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
HISTORICAL REFERENCES TO PIZZA
Clearly from the number of flat breads, which one priest could not possibly consume alone, we can understand that he was using them as commodity to barter in exchange for other goods of equal value. After millet, barley and oat, fortune smiled upon emmer - a species of durum wheat suitable for polentine (a type of stiff porridge) and grain which was used only for a few centuries and survived only in some regions of Italy, such as Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio). Emmer is important in the history of food, because it is a predecessor of wheat, which became the king of cultivated cereals, since the flour produced from wheat is the most suitable for foccace (or pizzas), bread, and in general baked products, because of its vital characteristics, described in the following chapters. The word farina, which means flour, comes from the Italian name for emmer: farro. The choice of a particular variety of emmer by the Romans resulted in its name: grano Romano – Roman grain. Ancient history is packed with references to flat breads, and therefore hinting to the primeval origins of pizza. The ‘plates’ which the crew ate were the thin flatbreads of emmer, which generally served as dishes for the meal itself and were not intended to be themselves consumed. So, we understand from the poem that the men’s hunger must indeed have been exceptional if the Aeneas and is crew were driven to eat the flatbreads of emmer, the antique progenitors of our pizza. From the Latin word puls (“pappa”, “pappina”) meaning pureed food ,like baby food, derives the Italian word for the earlier mentioned polenta or polentina. Polentine (pultes) was the staple food of the ancient Italic population, as well as for all the prehistoric men, and from them originates our pizza. Pizza means a flat cake of flour, but in dictionaries we find many synonyms: crostata (a tart or pie), offa , piccia, stiacciata, schiacciata, sfogliata, focaccia, pizza schiacciata. Word pizza originates from pinsa, the participle of the Latin verb pinsere whose range of meanings includes to pound, squeeze, mash, knead, press, push, break,
grind or mush. In Romania the word pinza means a type of bread made in the shape of the bobbin or spool used in weaving. In Rimini, in a document dating from 1256, the term pizza is used to indicate a particular type of flat cake. Pinza meant for the Venetians a particular bread cooked under ashes, preserved to this day as a specific cake for Epiphany, naturally very thin. In the Roman times, pizza or flat cake were called:
Laganum
(Horace and Apicius - a collection of Roman cookery recipes)
Tractum
(Cato the Elder)
Tracta (Pliny)
Libum
(Cato the Elder)
Moretum
(Virgil and Apicius)
Picea
(Horace) Moretum was a flatbread made of emmer flour, specifically Roman grain, unleavened and then baked in an oven, sprinkled with oil and vinegar, garnished with garlic, onions, rue and cheese. Picea (from slang pitta meaning pitch), was a type of bread made of emmer flour (Italian farro) somewhat sticky exactly like the pitch, then flattened with a pistus ( a type of wooden roller favoured by bakers). In the Middle Ages the word picea was transformed into piza and eventually pizza, in which form the term entered the common language of food.
O
N
Universe Pizza LTD 320, Kentish Town Road NW5 2TH London +44 7454 899612
D
Forni Dorigo s.r.l. Via Gritti, 48 30021 Caorle - Venezia +39 0421 261460
THE ROA
ontheroad@fornidorigo.com
info@pizzaanyplace.com
The idea comes from the creativity of an italian manufacture company of professional ovens "Forni Dorigo Srl" with more than 20 years of experience in the field and a british company "Universe Pizza Ltd" with specific knowledge on street food market produced the first pizza snack wagon in 2001.
http://www.youtube.com/pizzaanyplace
VERSIONI ECONOMICHE
Forno Genova Legna Ape Classic
Forno Napoli Legna Ape Tm
Forno a legna e friggitrice Ape Classic
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HISTORICAL REFERENCES TO PIZZA
In Latin
In Greek
Pulls (puree) Pultes (polentina) Pinsere (pound, knead, crush) Pinsa (flatbread)
Pitta Picea
PICEA / PINSA / PIZA / PIZZA In a document from Sulmona, dated 1201, there are references to “PIDCAS CASEY” and “PIZZAS DE PANE”. In Codex Caetanus from 997 the word pizza appears clearly. In a text from Pesaro, we can read about “PIZA PANIS”. The personal cook to Pope Pius V (Bartolomeo Scappi), in his treatise on cuisine of 1570 entitled Opera, described many types of cakes, and in particular: “TORTA REALE DI PICCIONI” (Royal cake of pigeons), understood by Neapolitans as “Pizza of the Lady’s Mouth”; “TORTA CON DIVERSE MATERIE” (Cake with varied stuffing), called by the Neapolitans “PIZZA”. The document deals with elaborate ingredients but the Pope’s cook explains that the word pizza means ‘a disk of dough not higher than a finger, which must be baked in the over or a cake tin, without a cover.’ In Ferrara in 1549 Christopher of Messisburgo, in his own famous treatise on cuisine, talks about pizzas. In the book “Libro Nuovo di Cucina” (New Book on Cooking), dedicated to the cardinal Ippolito d’Este, there is a recipe for preparation of pizza: Recipe for a layered pizza Soft insides of 4 white loaves, left to softened in water, mix with flour, 10 egg yolks, butter, rosewater and sugar. Obtain a very thin layer of dough, on which melted butter is poured, then it is left to cool down. It is made into a spiral form, cut into 10 pieces, which are then fried in a pan with butter” As it may be noted that since antiquity pizza was very common in the whole of Italy, and was certainly present in peasant and popular cooking, where it was born and preserved.
With passing of time the kneaded flat cake or pizza fell by the wayside in some countries, as people turned to new types of interesting food that followed migrations or invasions of foreigners, while in others, while it was preserved and enriched. As a result, in the north of Italy the flatbread pizza was larfely abandoned and replaced by other dishes, while in the south, where the influence of foreign invasions was less extensive pizza maintained a firm hold.
THE MODERN FLATBREAD, THAT IS: PIZZA The real pizza was born in the south out of the necessity to render flatbreads more attractive, and make the best use of available resources. It is traditionally believed that pizza was born in Naples. However, as most scholars confirm, this is not so much because it was actually invented in the city of Naples itself as the fact that pizza is the culinary standard bearer of the south and the Naples is always celebrated as the heart of the south. The first true pizza was that made with the bread dough, baked in the oven and dressed with garlic, lard and coarse salt, so it was like a flat cake with dressing. Soon the lard was overtaken by oil, and cheese and aromatic herbs were added, thus creating the Roman moretum. The pizza with basil is called pizza Mastunicola. The including of whitebait dates from the same period, and thus the name of a particular type of flatbread: cecinelli - or small fry.
We are in the seventeenth century and the flatbreads with topping have made their entrance, but they do not yet include mozzarella or tomatoes and are still not widespread, as the majority favours flatbread with fat, salt and garlic. We recognise the appearance of tomato sauce for the first time in a written work dating from 1778, Il Cuoco Galante - A Gallant Chef by Vicenzo Corrado. The tomato was imported from America into Europe and spread by the Spanish, but was not employed to dress either Maccheroni (pasta) or pizza in those times. Buffalo milk mozzarella also appeared, but again did not make its way to the pizza. Tomatoes were first used as a regular dressing for pasta by open-air bakers selling to the passing trade. The sauce was made in a large saucepan, and the tomatoes were flavoured with a pinch of salt and some basil leaves – and we are already at the beginning of the XIX century.
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HISTORICAL REFERENCES TO PIZZA
Gradually tomato sauce became a more widespread ingredient of pizza - and buffalo milk mozzarella too – around the mid 19th century, although works by one of the most committed chefs of his day, Ippolito Cavacanti Duca di Buonvicino, contain no references to either of them. Tomato represents a benchmark in the history of pizza, certainly more than mozzarella, because different cheeses or even buffalo milk mozzarella were used only cautiously on pizzas before 1850. The decisive year for the pizza was 1889, when a series of pizzas were officially launched, after being carefully produced for decades in pizzerias of the Naples and the Italian south in general:
PIZZA ALLA MASTUNICOLA – with lard, cheese and basil
PIZZA ALLA MARINARA
– with tomato, garlic, oil and oregano.
PIZZA MARGHERITA
– with tomato, oil, mozzarella and basil. In practice, however, the Pizza alla Mastunicola was already invented in the 1600s, Pizza alla Marinara in 1800s and Pizza Margherita in 1850s. At the end of the XIX century, a real explosion of many varieties of pizza occurred in the south of Italy, and soon afterwards spread to the United States, with a special welcome in New York’s Little Italy. The development spread to northern Italy in the early years of the twentieth century thanks to dedicated cooks from the south who with their ability and experience managed in a few decades to carry pizza into the modern age. But let us step back for a moment to a truly historic day for pizza, the 9th of June, 1889, when Umberto I and his consort Queen Margherita, summon Don Raffaele Esposito and his wife Rosa Brandi to the Palace of Capodimonte. They pair are the owners of the already famous pizzeria Pietro il Pizzaoilo
(Peter the Pizza Maker), situated on the slopes of the Sant’Anna di Palazzo, in the heart of Chiaia di Napoli. The royal couple have heard many stories concerning the legendary skills of the man reputed to be the finest pizza chef of his times.. Accordingly, the couple carefully prepared three classic pizzas, thoughtfully christening one – topped with mozzarella and tomato - Pizza Margherita in honour of the Queen. (The story goes that by using ingredients matching the three colours of the Italian national flag - green, red and white -Mrs Brandi sought to honour the majesty of the sovereigns. Nonetheless the result was an entirely new and formidable pizza which became hugely popular, so much that it was the favourite of the Austrian born Maria Carolina, wife of Ferdinand IV Bourbon). Another legend of pizza states that one day the Vulcan, blacksmith to the gods and husband of Venus, the beauty queen of all goddesses, appeared famished with hunger from labouring at his forge, and asked his consort what she had ready to eat. Venus, who had unfortunately forgotten to prepare lunch, instantly rushed to put some flatbreads on the red hot stones of Vesuvius, having previously soaked them with goats milk and garnished with aromatic herbs and juicy berries. That is an alternative tale of how pizza was born. The credit for the enormous success of pizza, a simple, agreeable, tasty and inexpensive dish celebrated around the globe, belongs undeniably to the Neapolitans, who are immensely proud of their unique skills and methods in preparing the basic dough base, the starting point of all successful pizza
recipes, which opens the door to infinite varieties of flavours according to fashion, taste and personal diets. By ancient tradition pizza was high and soft, with raised edges, but of late and especially in Rome, central Italy and in the north, pizza comes to the table thinner and more crunchy while its edges have displayed a tendency to disappear (although not of course at the hands of any self respecting Neapolitan who always adheres firmly to the traditional recipe). Another evolutionary development is away from wholemeal flour in favour of more refined flours, which contribute to more springy and elastic dough, or even blends of different types of flour. In the ancient tradition wood fire ovens were always used, in company with a very lively fire. The pizza was customarily baked at the base of the flame, rather than by refracted heat. Nowadays the trend is to use electric or gas ovens, but the main difference lies in the cooking not with a flame, but with the total mass of heat refraction. To the stout hearts, the use of modern equipment is strictly forbidden in the traditional cooking, while those who use modern technologies produce the basic material and the base faster and with a lot of help from modern kitchen appliances.
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CUPOLA NAPOLI COLORS
TANGANNELLI
(Brushed Finishing)
GEA
CUPOLA MOSAICO (Mosaic Finishing)
TROFEO
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4our interpretations of
W 
pizza
ith the recipes that you will find in the following pages we wished to render to you the interpretations of four great pizza experts. Pizza is the most loved and known dish in the whole world.
2016
Two of them are Italians – Graziano Bertuzzo, technical director of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, multi-award winning expert of the sector and internationally known for his passion, professionalism and preparation. The second is Laura Meyer, winner of the Pan Pizza category at the World Pizza Championship and right arm of Tony Gemignani, of whom we have widely talked about in last years magazine.
The third is Salvatore Santucci, exponent of the well known Neapolitan school who looks at the entire world as outlet of his own food creations. Johnny Di Francesco, winner of the STG Neapolitan Pizza category at the World Pizza Championship, based in Australia who is witnessing stellar success!
pizza champions
1Bertuzzo Graziano Summer Breeze —
FOR THE DOUGH: Multigrain flour Water Salt Extra virgin olive oil Mother dried yeast 48 hours of maturation under proofed controlled temperature —
FOR THE TOPPING: Leeks cream Neapolitan Buffalo Mozzarella cheese Uncooked zucchini carrots leeks egg plants with seasoning San Marzano tomato filets After baking a sprinkle of Modena IGP Balsamic vinegar
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In 1973 he started to approach the world of pizza acquiring along the years more and more experience. In 1979, pushed by the passion for this work, he bough together with his sister, Manuela, the pizza shop Brian, near Caorle – Venice. In 1984 he attended a course as Master Instructor at Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli (Caorle – Venice) where at present he is still teaching theory and practical work for basic courses and for advanced courses. Since 1985 he has starting tossing pizza for his pizza customers and from here Acrobatic Pizza and Free Style was born. In 1987 he created “the Acrobatic Patrol”, and since 2005 he is head of the acrobatic team “Pizza Shock Team”, made up by 5 people. He won several pizza prizes among which the European Pizza Championship, the World Pizza Championship in Salsomaggiore Terme and 2 times the World Pizza Games in Las Vegas.
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Laura was born and raised in Hayward, California. Her appreciation and love for thinking outside of the culinary box began early and can be attributed to her parents, who both studied the culinary arts in San Francisco, and worked as chefs during Laura’s childhood.
pizza e pasta italiana
When she was a senior in high school, Laura took a job at a local pizzeria, Pyzano’s. It was here that she was introduced to Tony Gemignani, who was head pizzaiolo for Pyzano’s, which was owned by his brother. Laura was one of very few women in the kitchen, but she saw it as an opportunity to delve into the Italian culture, language, and most importantly, the art of making pizza.
2Meyer Laura
Laura continued at Pyzano’s through college, working her way up the ranks. After graduating in 2011, Gemignani asked Laura to serve as head pizza maker of his flagship restaurant, Tony’s Pizza Napoletana. Since joining Tony’s, Laura has also become the administrator and teaching assistant for Gemignani’s International School of Pizza.
La Regina Winner of the Pizza in Teglia 2013 Parma, Italy
THE PIZZA: 1 Sicilian dough recipe 1 13"x 18" Sicilian pan 7 oz Shredded mozzarella 3 oz provola 8 oz tomato sauce 12 1oz slices of sopressata picante arugula 12 slices of Prosciutto di Parma shaved Parmigiano Reggiano shaved Piave Olive Oil
Push out the dough evenly in the pan with enough olive oil to coat the pan and the dough. Place in a warm spot for at least 1-2 hours or doubled in size. Re push the dough out to fit the corners trying not to deflate the dough too much. Let rise again for another 30 min to 1 hour. Once ready par cook the dough for 6-7 minutes rotating as need at 550-575 degrees Fahrenheit. Once par baked spread sauce out the edges leaving a little bit of a crust. Spread the shredded mozzarella and provola evenly over the sauce. Place sopressata in a 3x4 pattern across the top. Place pizza back in the oven and finish cooking for another 7-8 minutes or golden brown on all sides. Cut pizza into 12 slices with one piece of sopressata on each slice. Top with arugula and one slice of prosciutto on each slice. Shave parmiggiano reggiano and piave over top and drizzle with olive oil to finish. Serve while still hot and enjoy!
In 2013, she traveled to Parma, Italy to compete in the World Pizza Championships and took first place in the Pan Division with her Sicilian-style pan pizza, “La Regina.” Not only was it her first competition, she was also the first female and first American to have ever won the title. In 2014, Laura won first place in the Non-Traditional Division of the International Pizza Expo, the largest pizza show in the world, with her pizza “La Bella Rosa.” Laura continues to think of ways to challenge herself, dreaming up new, creative pizzas to share with Tony’s Pizza Napoletana fans.
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"I love creating new flour blends and the recipe I propose on this occasion is uniquely created with my own flour."
3Santucci Salvatore Pizza Puteoli the ancient name of Pozzuoli
Dough mix with Triticuma flour 30 hours of leavening time with 5 years old mother yeast. Cherry tomatoes of pieno del Vesuvio D.O.P. Fresh anchoves from the Golf of Pozzuoli. Neapolitan Garlic Matese Oreganon Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Peranzana Apuglia monocultivar. Fresh Basil Modena IGP Balsamic vinegar
I was born in the homeland of pizza. When I was a little boy, I fell in love with the movement of the hands of a pizzaiolo, I spent days watching and trying to learn the art. I love the smell of tomato, garlic and mozzarella, and my smell is highly developed so I can smell when my dough is ready. I become pizzaioli at the age of 12, and since then pizza is an integral part of my life! I opened my first pizzeria at the age of 18 years old and the name was ChicchricĂŹ and now I just opened a new restaurant in Pozzuoli called Ammaccamm. I worked as a pizza teacher for Gambero Rosso Accademy and I am on Gamber Rosso Channel with a pizza program and I am part of AVPN.
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+39 049 9624611 curtarolo@agugiarofigna.com
The Ad Store Italia - Image by Oliviero Toscani
WE RAISE REAL NEAPOLITAN PIZZA
Pizza Napoletana Le 5 Stagioni: flour just as they want it in Naples. Pizza Napoletana flour was created in partnership with Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the authentic Neapolitan pizza association, in accordance with suitability specifications set out by these masters of pizza making. Its superior quality and special elasticity has made it the most sought after and best loved flour both in Italy and abroad. www.le5stagioni.it
+39 049 9624611 curtarolo@agugiarofigna.com
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4Di Johnny Francesco
When it comes to making the world’s best pizza, Australian Pizzaiolo don’t usually spring to mind – but one Aussie has changed that. Known as “Mr Pizza” at home, Melbourne based Johnny Di Francesco was recently named the best in the world at The 2014 World Pizza Championship. Johnny’s passion for Italian cuisine draws from traditional Neapolitan techniques, with his family originating from Naples. Culminating in his World Pizza Championship win, Johnny has gained national and international media attention, media coverage and recognition. Johnny’s dedication to making world-class pizza has also awarded him the coveted position of Australasian Principal of V.P.N, an international association based in Naples that is educated to protecting and promoting authentic Neapolitan Pizza. Only two chefs in Australia have been awarded this honour.
Margherita PIZZA DOUGH: 1kg "00" flour sieved 30 g fine sea salt 1 g fresh yeast 600 ml water or 1.7kg flour 50g fine sea salt 3g yeast 1 lt Water In a bowl combine water and salt allow to dissolve. Add 10% of the flour and mix. Mix well; add more flour and the yeast. Continue to add the remaining flour and mix well until combined. Turn Dough onto a lightly floured surface, knead until smooth and elastic. This can take up to 10 min. Place the dough into a lightly floured bowl, cover with a damp cloth and set aside. Let the dough rest for half an hour, then divide into 4-5 round balls. Cover with a damp tea towel and allow the dough balls to rise. This can take up to 10 - 12 hrs. Once the dough has doubled in size place on a lightly floured bench, stretch the dough by hand.
PIZZA MARGHERITA: Pizza Dough San Marzano Tomato Buffalo Mozzarella Fresh Basil Extra Virgin Olive Oil Roll out a 220g Pizza dough, Spread the San Marzano tomato. Top with Buffalo Mozzarella, place 4 basil leaves on top and drizzle some extra virgin olive oil.
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AROUND THE WORLD WITH
P
araphrasing the immortal Jules Verne (who wrote the adventure novel “Around the world in 80 days”), it can be said that also Pizza e Pasta Italiana was capable to travel the world … but thanks to pizza! In the past year, and this year too our team has witnessed the love for pizza around the world, from Copenhagen to Hamburg, from Paris to Las Vegas to end happily with Hotelex Shanghai, our team has fisically taken part to all this food
exibitions to under stand what going on with our favourite Italian dish. We can clearly say that this magazine was distributed in all latitudes and everywhere we had the chance to show, not only our competent skills but also our love and passion for pizza tank to the teachers of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli. We had a chance to talk about us, our activities, the Italian companies that are shown in Pizza e Pasta Italiana and support us in our efforts to promote quality pizza, and we were able to show,
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World Pizza Championship 2016 - Sidney
through the responsible and faculty of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, our operating line and teaching with regard to pizza and techniques that the School has perfected in over 20 years of hard work, with many experiments and careful checks. The comparison with other experiences and other schools was always positive, confirming that only seriously studying the problems of the sector and opening up to the world and confronting others are unable to grow and improve and gain consensus. Those responsible for this magazine and teachers of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli
PIZZAS!
are also proud of what we have seen over their educational and training activities, having in fact been able to see once more as Italian companies, alone or in groups, with a lot of courage and professionalism, and leveraging what nobody can steal (or the highquality raw materials and technology) are able to work and compete - and win - compared to local companies. From flours to toppings, from technology to equipment, Italian products work out excellent and there is high demand for it, and can put anywhere, than others, that extra touch of quality as well as passion
Hotelex Shangai
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and love for the work permits, although in very small compared to the powerful multinationals, to attack and conquer markets with enormous potential. The editors of this magazine and trainers of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli did, finally, very nice to meet all over the world so many of our fellow countrymen who live far from home and they still have the heart of Italy, who talk about it with affection and nostalgia . They roll up their sleeves every day to do work often hard and difficult as that of the restaurant owner and pizza maker. All such extraordinary our compatriots our congratulations and our admiration, because, with their work and with their high degree of professionalism, wherever I want the prestige of our country.
Pasquale Corvaglia, Giropizza of Europe - Amburgo
Elio Corsi, Giropizza of Europe Copenhagen
China Pizza Championship Shangai
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THE RESTAURANT
The Restaurant Berton O in Milan n December 13, 2013, Andrea Berton, talented Italian chef, known and appreciated well beond the European borders. He was able to crown a dream that was kept in his heart for a long time, that is to open a restaurant on his own, where he would be able to offer gourmands a kind of cuisine able to transmit into his dishes a concept of serious, healthy and smart way of cooking. Not by chance, this new restaurant has met the public’s expectations right away, both of the wide international food lovers and severe international gastronomists, and this is demonstrated by the first Michelen star given less than one year from its
A talented chef and patron, one of the highest expressions of the Italian cuisine
by Giampiero Rorato
on the next page
Andrea Berton, the chef image above
One of the dining rooms of the restaurant
p. 49
opening. It must be added that Andrea, strengthened by the experience acquired working with great chefs. According to his way of cooking, all ingredients and flavours are immediately recognizable, giving the guests that subtle pleasure, that is the true value of great cooks. Chef Berton together with his brigade of kitchen creates modern dishes, like he defines them, with the enhancement of some basic values and the revelation of some basic ingredients, little known. An element, that strikes the guests, is the importance of broth, that is also part of the menu.
A quintessential story
sopra
a partire da sinistra Somagh (spezia profumata e raffinata), Zafferano e frutta secca a destra
Mahvash e Abolghasem, i gestori del ristorante
Andrea Berton, born in 1970, started his professional background in the kitchen of Gualtiero Marchesi, in the famous restaurant located in Bonvesin street in Milan, to follow then in other restaurants, from Mossiman’s in London, to Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence and later on at Louis XV in Montecarlo under the guidance of Alain Ducasse. From 1997 to 2001 he is employed at the Tavern of Colloredo in Monte Albano (Udine), gaining his first Michelin star and it is always in Colloredo that I met him, being able to taste dishes that were the true expression of a genius. After reaching this important goal, he goes back working with chef Marchesi, at Erbusco, in the area of Franciacorta, as executive chef of the group,
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THE RESTAURANT
where I had the chance to try his dishes again, following him in his path towards marvellous goals. In 2005, he starts cooperating with the Restaurant located in Scala square, in the heart of Milan, where he obtains many recognitions. In 2008 the first Michelin star and the second in 2009, the three Forks of Gambero Rosso in 2010 and three Hats in the guide of Espresso 2011. All these recognitions , push him to start his own path and take on his own path of chef patron. On December 13, 2013 he starts his new professional life, always in Milan, in the area of Porta Nuova Varesine, futuristic city planning project, with high residential towers, and the modern business district, has become the new symbol of Milan, the most international and contemporary. Hines Italia has begun here one of the greatest requalification projects, for a level of sustainable quality with no equals.
Andrea Berton THE art of cooking image above
Private dining room
RISTORANTE BERTON Viale della Liberazione, 13 20124 Milano T.+39.02 62 08 77 32 info@ristoranteberton.com www.ristoranteberton.com
Andrea Berton took a precise choice. The modernity of the context, the attention to environmental sustainability, the rigorous design of the buildings, mirror the fundamentals of his way of cooking, essential and elegant, where the simplicity of the dish is his distinctive trait, with excellent ingredients and where the creative choice is to evolve and not to distort tradition. Food critics state that Andrea Berton researches in every dish the highest quality of taste, using the most advanced techniques, making modern dishes, as he likes to define them, with the enhancement of basic ingredients, and
the revelation of some little known ingredients. “My dishes – he says – are always built around primary tastes that are easy to recognize, and my guest, only by reading the menu, can imagine the dish. Ingredients are not distorted, but combined together to create a new harmony, that doesn’t compromise the direct taste of each ingredient. Experimentation and research should always serve one objective, that is to create passion in the guest. My way of cooking is clear and direct, centered on the balance, the elements composing my plates are clear and comprehensible, they don’t
hide from the palate.” To sum up, this is the precious contribution given by one of the most promising chefs of the generation and I am stubborn, knowing the professionalism and the engagement of Andrea, will contribute to make the Italian cuisine known around the world.
I nostri FORNI sono una
BUONA FETTA
del TUO SUCCESSO
SYNTHESIS
POLIS
CITIZEN
Passion, experience, fantasy are the of making an Per fare un’ottima pizza c’è bisogno dikey passione, esperienza, excellent fantasia epizza. certamente dei giusti strumenti di lavoro. Zanolli offers wellalle to tue ti offremodular soluzionisolutions modulariwhich che siadapt adattano any productive need;un’innovativa an innovativegamma range ofdiovens that esigenze produttive; forni che guarantees simplicity d’uso in the eusage and an ideal uniformity garantisce semplicità un’ideale uniformità of baking. di cottura. Un prodotto 100% made in Italy, All in Italy reliable products, which che100% con lamade sua affidabilità assicura continuità diassure lavoro continuity of workdei and maximization e ottimizzazione costi di esercizio.of running cost.
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IN LABICO, NEAR ROME, THERE IS A NEW REALM OF ONE OF THE GREAT PROTAGONISTS OF THE ITALIAN AND THE INTERNATIONAL CUISINE
Antonello Colonna VALLEFREDDA
by Giampiero Rorato
p. 55
A
ntonello Colonna is one of the most renowned protagonists of the Italian world of cooking. His restaurant near Rome is visited every year not only by the Romans but by numerous Italian gourmets and foreign visitors who visit the Eternal City or pay a visit on purpose to enjoy his creations. For a couple of years, perhaps driven by the nostalgia of his peasant origins, Antonello opened a delightful Resort & Spa in Vallefredda, in the park of Labico, in the Roman countryside, where his multifaceted character - who is chef, entrepreneur, chef, collector, restaurateur , hotelier, philosopher, poet, inventor and perhaps even revolutionary - freed from the not always easy pressures of the eternal city, has run as reclaiming its peasant origins, thereby giving his guests of his new restaurant cuisine is born from the earth, played He recognized by his culinary skill and his mature professionalism. But why has Antonello Colonna chosen to open a new restaurant just Vallefredda? He responds with a smile, as he finally reached a milestone dreamed for years. “I went back where I started thirty years ago, in 1985. I am the son and grandson of hosts, there my family ran a tavern for over a century. In the 1985 my father had to go away and gave me the responsibility of the environment and I did not think for a moment to revolutionize it and to give him my name “Antonello Colonna.� Also in the past the food was good, good tavern food, with a always very accurate raw material. Having to choose my own line, I continued to keep the relationship with tradition, but
top image
Antonello Colonna, the chef
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I made my kitchen lighter, more colorful, more flavorful, more enjoyable, even more genuine, since I began to look personally for the products I needed. By doing this I transmitted into my dishes my own taste, the beauty and the pleasure of novelty, breaking the old rules of food, often unable to seize the new, so I got an innovative and exciting cuisine, that customers have been considering very refined and elegant. “ Who is able to renew with intelligence his/her cuisine, giving diners emotions previously unknown clearly leads to rumors that can increase from day to day customers in Labico. Antonello Colonna welcomes gourmets from Rome, from other parts of Lazio, also international tourists who love good food. Very soon Antonello calls the interest of important media and his name begins to spread far. In the early 90’s, in Rome, there is increasing discussion of this new character who, from the country, rocked the Roman and Lazio restaurant, a restaurant that was anchored to or brasserie cuisine, simple and good, but often lacking finesse, suitable for the average tourist, even religious, who looks more to refresh than to seek gastronomic delights, or, except for some kitchen of extraordinary interest, linked to international dishes typical of many large hotels in the capital. Rome is a city that attracts, is the most beautiful city in the world and Antonello Colonna is repeatedly called and awaited by his many friends and admirers, and so, in October 2007 opens in the capital of the Open Colonna Restaurant on the top floor of Palazzo delle Esposizioni, soon recognized as worthy of a Michelin star.
BACK TO THE FUTURE Labico remains irresistible, so much that two years ago Antonello decided to come back, but not in the old tavern of his family that he had turned into a high end restaurant, but in a whole new, futuristic, where there are no boundaries between inside and exterior, between public and private, where there are no walls to define functions of use, in the natural park of Vallefredda. Antonello is then returned to Labico, but it was not a return to the past but, definitely, the future.
Here, in his new restaurant by Antonello Colonna, an oasis of scents and flavors in the resort Vallefredda, away from the traffic of the capital and nestled in a beautiful unspoilt corner of the Roman countryside. It is the latest creation of the great chef, a jewel of architectural minimalism that has garnered praise from experts and, above all, of demanding gourmets, because they know it all by now, what matters in a restaurant is to eat well and stay healthy and in Antonello Colonna Resort and Spa in Labico you eat and you are stupendously well.
ANTONELLO COLONNA Resort & Spa Via Valle Fredda 52 LABICO (Roma) Tel. 06 951 0032 - www.antonellocolonnaresort.it
La Bontà è una Scelta
Viander Spa Loc. Bufaloro, 20 - 06089 Torgiano (Pg) - tel. 075.985169 www.viander.it
p. 58
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
RESTAURANT Recipe for 4 person:
Negativ
OF CARBONARA Ingredients 4 eggs (3 + 1 whole egg yolks) 80 g grated Pecorino Romano 30 g grated Parmesan cheese 100 g lean bacon 200 g egg noodles 100 g crème fraiche salt and pepper
Blend the whole egg and yolks with pecorino, parmesan and freshly ground pepper creating a thick cream in a double boiler. Cut out squares from a thin sheet of pasta, stuff them with a small knob of compound egg and close by matching the opposite corners and form a star.
Cut into sticks 2 thick slices of bacon, roasted in the pan and dry them. Prepare a fondue with sour cream and grated cheese, pour in the mirror on the plate. Lay over ravioli boiled around the crispy bacon and a sprinkling of pepper.
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G
ood Morning, Mr. Marra! Could you explain to our readers who you are and could you introduce your company and tell us how it is structured? I was born in Naples, Italy in 1973. I have always had a passion for gastronomy and from childhood I always hanged around my grandmother’s very busy kitchen. My passion was to be a chef but I also cultivated a great attention to the financial aspects of cooking and the restaurant business. I spent my youth playing Water Polo with Canottieri Napoli. At 15, I had my first chance at playing in the Series A at the national level where I played till I was 20 years old. My team won the national championship and we came in second in the European Championship when I was only 16 and we came in second and third in the Italian
Championship for Allievi and Juniores. We then took fourth place in the European and Italian championships for players Under 21. That year, I joined the Italian Navy team that participated in the Military Navy World Championship and we won that title. I played a key role and I consider that one of my finest accomplishments as a Water Polo player. Soon after that, my family relocated to the United States. I was one day shy of 21 when I decided to join the rest of my family in the States in 1995. As do all immigrants, I started from zero all over again and nothing initially could be considered a continuation of my previous life in Italy. The difficulties were many not least of all the need to learn American English. It was in the States that my passion for fine Italian cuisine came back and the lessons learned in my grandmother’s kitchen came back coupled with the limited training I had received in the Culinary Arts Institute I had attended in Italy. I soon became a sous chef and eventually a chef on my own with all responsibility for a budget and good size staff. But the rest of the story is strongly tied to the presence of my two brothers, Emiliano and Enzo. With them plans and ideas began to take shape and we soon developed a number of ideas that continued always to feed and strengthen the mission of Italian style cuisine in the USA. We started importing specialty foods that were still somewhat difficult to obtain in the US, and eventually sold that company in 2015 to a larger one desirous to add our expertise to its many
achievements. At the same time, we all continued to cultivate other related ideas that would lead to an additional enterprise in support of fine cooking: It was the idea of making ovens that embrace both the old traditions and avail themselves of the modern technology that our forefathers did not enjoy yet. With Emiliano’s ideas for innovation and creativity coupled with Enzo’s technical skills and my organizational and management skills we eventually came up with Marra Forni, a company that has quickly grown in the last few year and is recognized as a leader in the Pizza Oven business and is quickly asserting itself as one of the very best investment for pizzerias and restaurants as well as Supermarkets and even for individual homes that can now return to the old days when almost all Italian communities enjoyed sharing ovens for their daily needs of bread and other baked goods.
W
hat made you decide to dedicate yourselves to pizza ovens?
Since we are from Naples, one can understand your affection for our roots and the products of our city and, of course, pizza is the symbolic food par excellence of our wonderful city. So, my brothers and I wanted to create a product that would enhance the incredible abilities of American pizza makers. They needed an oven that would enable them to be real Neapolitan Pizzaioli. We wanted an oven that embraced tradition and technology and we have done just that.
In less than six years, we are proud to say we are leaders in Neapolitan style ovens and our Rotator oven is widely recognized as a real achievement. It is now available also in an electric version for those who prefer or require such an option.
W
hat type of products are you able to offer professional pizza makers and which is the one that has given you most acclaim? Our strength is SERVICE, QUALITY and PROFESSIONALISM in supplying a product that cooks marvelously. Besides the Rotator, we have ovens for any space and cooking requirement in addition to the traditional wood burning and gas ovens to which we have recently added the electric option, which is greatly appreciated in the USA and is highly on demand. In addition, we offer our knowledge of the restaurant business, and our culinary expertise and are able to bridge the requirements of anyone who wishes to improve his or her skills and / or wishes to start a new pizzeria or restaurant.
I
n how many markets are you now operating?
Our principal market is right now the USA where we have grown up and developed our skills, a market that is giving us a great deal of satisfaction at the moment.
W
hat are the major characteristics of the American Pizza oven market?
The American consumer of Pizza has and continues to become ever more sophisticated and knowledgeable of quality and price. I believe that the American market is the first to have discovered the importance of cultivating all cooking cultures from around the world. And the pizza market is booming both as a take home business and as a product to consume sitting down in a fine restaurant.
W
hat are your projects for the future of your company outside of the USA? What other markets would you like to explore and how? We are trying to broaden our US outlook and extend it to Europe. We have applied and received the CE Certification for our ovens and we are very proud of that. That will enable us to look more optimistically at the international market thanks also to the contributions of other individuals who have joined out team and our family. We are about to launch our first fair for Marra Forni at the upcoming SIGEP in Italy with Molino SPIGADORO where we will present our Electric Oven, which is, at the moment, our pride and joy. We are also trying to develop our Middle East market, a market that is just now rediscovering or discovering for the first time the pleasure of good, authentic pizza. But, we must remember that we are a young and growing company and we still have a lot to learn. S o our growth will have to be slow and deliberate and that is also why we will explore things gradually and only as we learn how to do things. In this spirit, we will soon be visiting Dubai. We will be at GULFOOD 2016! Come and visit us‌ a good pizza and a great espresso await you!
p. 64
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RHEX RIMINI HORECA EXPO
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MADE IN ITALY
wood burning ovens since 1939
Mod. Amalfi Trasportabile
Mod. Mec 80
Fully insulated and covered with inox steel and copper. Available in 6 different sizes.
Raw oven to be walled up and finished as your desire. Available in 6 different sizes sizes.
Mod. d Italia li
This oven has a very original shape with an handcrafted impressive copper hood. This unique dome can be finished as you desire.
Mod. UNIVERSAL
Mod. M d JJolly ll
Fully insulated and covered with stainless steel and copper Available in 5 different sizes.
Small professional oven. Also available to be finished as your desire.
All ovens could be fitted with gas arrangement. Ambrogi snc •via B. Buozzi, 3 - 20090 Fizzonasco di Pieve Emanuele (Milano) Italy Tel +39 02 90720722 •Fax +39 02 90722794 •www.ambrogi.it •info@ambrogi.it
MOLINO PASINI THE ART OF FLOUR / L’ARTE DELLA FARINA
MOLINO PASINI AND FARINA DEL MIO SACCO PRODUCT LINES
Molino Pasini has been in the milling business for more than eighty years. For three generations, we’ve been producing flours for people demanding perfection from their flour. Combining artisan expertise with the most advanced analysis and research technologies, painstaking attention to quality is without a doubt the distinguishing trait of our production philosophy. Today, Molino Pasini strikes a perfect balance between continuity with the past and evolution into the future. While still maintaining strong ties to tradition and to the old-fashioned care with which an artisan product is crafted, we’re great advocates of innovation in production processes and are committed to continuing our pursuit of research and development. Bringing the quality of the past into the future. You can find Molino Pasini products all over the globe thanks to a widespread network of exclusive hand-picked distributors.
MOLINO PASINI Bread line A combination of skilful blending and painstaking milling of the grain has resulted in the most comprehensive range of high-quality bread flours currently on the market. Molino Pasini leads the field in quality biga and long-rise flours.
One of our company’s many goals is to provide customers with the highest level of food safety, to which various international certifications - achieved with the highest possible scores attest: BRC-IFS, UNI EN ISO 22000 2005, UNI EN ISO 22000: FSSC, HACCP, KOSHER and organic certification. In addition, an extremely modern and highly efficient analysis laboratory means continuous research and development efforts are channelled into products worthy of the foremost professionals. Our company vision, which is focused on unbeatable product quality, has culminated in the Molino Pasini Workshop: a centre where theoretical and practical training is divided into different offerings for businesses and professionals. Research, growth, sharing and innovation are keywords on which the Molino Pasini quality training solution is founded.
Primitiva line Rich in fibre, proteins and mineral salts, it’s perfect if you’re looking for unique, unmistakable flavour With its impressive elasticity and easy digestibility, this flour is the result of a whole-grain milling process. Organic line Respecting and protecting the environment are two of Molino Pasini’s prime concerns, which is why we decided to create our own line of organic flours. Flours and semolinas made from organic grain sourced from businesses that offer the assurance of certification by the highest accredited institutes. Granozero line Line of gluten-free flours made with input from leading experts in the gluten-free field, for consumers who either need or want to cut gluten out of their diet.
MOLINO PASINI VIA BUSCOLDO 27/BIS 46010 CESOLE MANTOVA – IT T +39 0376 969015 F +39 0376 969274 WWW.MOLINOPASINI.COM INFO@MOLINOPASINI.COM
Mixes and improvers An extensive range of mixes for preparing different tasting innovative products in no time at all, catering to your every need. Gnocchi mixes A comprehensive professional line of gnocchi mixes, suitable for both artisan and industrial processes. FARINA DEL MIO SACCO Pizzeria line A line of flours that’s ideal for making crisp, delicioussmelling traditional pizzas, pizzas sold by the slice and focaccia flat bread. The line also includes an extensive range of mixes. Fresh pasta line The highlight of our range of flours designed specifically for use in pasta factories is our signature product, Pasta d’Oro®, a unique, unrivalled flour for making fresh pasta. Pastry line Working with some of the best master pastry chefs, Molino Pasini has come up with a line of flours specifically developed for making pastries and sweet goods. The flours are well balanced and consistent and offer great elasticity. A flour for every need.
D E SIGN: STUD IOVER. NET
FARINA PRIMITIVA MOLINO PASINI: IL GUSTO E IL SAPORE DI UNA VOLTA.
“Primitiva” è una linea di farine macinate a tutto corpo per pizze più ricche di fibre, proteine e sali minerali. Tutte caratteristiche che rendono il prodotto profumato, leggero e soprattutto digeribile.
Riscopri i profumi e i sapori della tradizione antica della pizza fatta come una volta. Con le farine tipo 1, tipo 2 e Integrale della linea “Primitiva” di Molino Pasini la bontà è più croccante.
Le informazioni sulla linea Primitiva sono disponibili sul sito web: molinopasini.com
p. 68
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
by Giampiero Rorato
Luigi Biasetto international pastry chef - the interview -
the interview
the character we would like to introduce to you is one of the milestones of the Italian and the european pastry world and the readers will find this out easily in the following interview.
F
rom his words, then, it emerges not only the career he accomplished, started in an important school of Brussels, but also the way that every young person has to travel if it is to become a good professional. After attending school in Belgium, Luigi Biasetto had an important experience in the world of chocolate, then opened a patisserie with his family in Padua, where he experienced what he had learned and implemented, with the added value of his personal culture and innovations that were suggested by what he was seeing in the world.
p. 69
p. 70
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
LUIGI BIASETTO THE INTERVIEW
But it has certainly not stopped in Padua, in his well-known and famous laboratory, having continued to look around, to understand the evolution of pastry - raw materials, work techniques, evolving tastes, proposals of the great masters, innovative forms, etc. - Visit the fairs, participate in national and international competitions and, certainly not secondary, to live the life of their time helping with their own culture and their own professional knowledge to improve it. Here comes then the wonderful initiati-
ves with youth American prisoners, here is the meeting with Illy Trieste to innovate the very same cafes. Biasetto, we write it for those who still do not know, is also a teacher asked for his research on food health and the contribution he is making on this important issue will give results that will lead to further positive changes in the world of pastry. Knowing his really extraordinary cultural and professional caliber we also wanted to interview to make known to our readers a character that the world envies.
Italy has a long history and a great tradition in the world of pastry: can you tell us, Mr. Biasetto, what were your beginnings in the fascinating world of pastry?
Is pastry more art or more science?
The world of pastry made me curious and passionate as a child, when I was 8/9 years old I started to make the first sweets at home starting with puddings and pancakes that I really liked. Then I was lucky enough to get into a major pastry school in Brussels where the fundamental lessons were on research techniques and products for the pastry. From here I was lucky enough to join the team of one of the best pastry shops in Brussels where I took my first steps with the first experiences and the first competitions. Contests are fundamental to stimulate curiosity, to confront other realities and other types of pastry from which to take inspiration. Then in 1990 she came back to Italy where for nine years I worked alongside manufacturers of chocolate as a consultant. In '98 however the decision to open a pastry shop in Padua and dedicate myself to the development of the pastry then living at a standstill because the construction techniques were idle for some time: In my pastry shop in Padua I wanted to introduce innovations that, with time, were right. Mr. Biasetto, you are one of the most renowned Italian masters in the art of pastry, chocolate and jams.
Pastry is the right combination of science and art: first comes the science in that, differently from the kitchen where the creativity you can break the rules of procedures, in pastry it is not possible, you have to know the proper procedures and the realization of sweets, then you can add the creative. In chocolate sculpture must first be able to work perfectly cocoa butter, then you can think of the aesthetics of sculpture, for example. You have led several times the national team of Italian pastry at the World Championships of pastries and other major international competitions.
Could you tell us your international experience and the satisfaction you had? In '97, together with my colleagues, I have brought a change in the preparation for the world championships. Until then, the championships were prepared in a month before the event. Instead championships must follow the same preparation of athletes who train for the big races. The preparation lasts all year, from the end of the season of the year, beginning of next. The financial and physical commitment are extremely important but in doing so they have been on the podium six times. These podiums are the result of ad hoc tireless preparation, we must take into account all the components of the jury and improve from year to year in all these variants. By doing so you can get excellent results, studying the strategies that will lead then to the podium. Every victory so it was a satisfaction to him that it is the right result of a long year of hard work.
Expertise and specialization are the main features of Dell’Oro, that from over half century produces a whole range of strong and reliable machines, completely “made in Italy” with the primary aim to help you in your work. Automatic divider and rounder moulders
Screw round moulders
Levelling machines for pizza
Spiral mixers
Kneading arms mixers
Fork mixers
THE QUALITY, OR YOU BUY IT NOW, OR YOU PAY IT LATER 23868 VALMADRERA (Lecco) ITALY Viale XXV Aprile, 42 e-mail: info@delloro.it diedello@tin.it Tel.: +39.0341.581202 Fax: +39.0341.200251
w w w. d e l l o ro. i t
p. 72
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
LUIGI BIASETTO THE INTERVIEW
"bakery is a lifestyle..."
Mr. Biasetto, your main headquarters is in Padua and over 5 years ago you opened Pâtisserie Biasetto in Brussels perpetuating an international adventure. Could you inform our readers with your next projects? I have several projects in various areas around the world. A project of social concerns a recovery activities on children's prison in Chicago in the US. This project involves teaching the pastry to detainees under 22 years of age. And 'interesting to see how the bakery door to patience (just look at the cooking times even a simple sponge cake) transforming people who want everything now to become people who wait for the right moment. Statistics tell us that 96% of young people who are subjected to this project are not fallen back into the crime that makes us understand how this result is important. Then with the group Illy we signed an agreement that will lead to the opening of the boutique where coffee will be properly highlighted the link between coffee and cake. Last month we opened one in London, now depart 3 rooms in Paris and one in Lyon. Then it started well also the project of the franchise and we are therefore considering further opening of Milan and in September in Rome behind the Quirinale.
What advice would you give to young people who aspire to become pastry chefs? Passion fuels our days as pastry chefs. I would like to carry a quote of Mrs. Bocconi – in order to have success you need 3 things: Intelligence (you need to study and always improve in each subject). Acquire skills (follow workshops, go to fairs, visit other bakeries. Studying for them to perform all the basics and then never stop to always continue to improve) Passion: Passion is the thing that matters most. With all new television programs it seems that the world of pastry is just fun and little effort is not so. A pastry chef wakes up every day at 4 and a half, he works when all other people are on holiday, when he has a moment of free time studying, studying new methods, visits exhibitions, visits other bakeries, take a flight to Paris to visit and other pastries see what's new on the market, it brings into play with contests as contributing know other realities and other sweets.
The bakery is a lifestyle, it's like going to the gym: you must stand in an appropriate manner, you must follow a healthy lifestyle and you have to work, work. In the first 5 years of a pastry chef earns nothing but if it has the consistency can do great things, but does not have the real passion in their interests to withdraw immediately, out of 10 young people attending the courses of pastry only one has the potential right to succeed in this beautiful work of passion, commitment and dedication to 100% of the time. But who has the passion, is committed to the study and has the desire to emerge can achieve great results.
VALORIANI
world famous
A great artisan known all over the world
A
history made of experience, knowledge and passion since 1890. A business passed on five generations; territory and tradition are the characterizing elements of REFRATTARI VALORIANI Srl. An entrepreneurial solidity that goes from the first pre-built wood fired oven by Silvio Valoriani to the daily innovations, linking the quality of raw materials, services, design and Made in Italy. Nowadays the knowledge, competence and ability to experiment of Massimo Valoriani have confirmed the success of wood and gas fired ovens also at an international level. A fame supported in its quality from recognized certifications all over the world: ETL in the USA, CLEAN AIR in the UK, UNI, IMQ and CE. Moreover, we are partner of the AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana) and our gas ovens are the only ones approved by them for the baking of real Neapolitan pizza. VESUVIO Vesuvio Valoriani is the most imitated gas and wood fired oven all over the world, and the most appreciated by professional pizza makers. The original project took life at the beginning of the 70’s, on the basis of a design that even today is followed, perfected by technical innovations. Vesuvio is a performing oven, synonymous and warranty of the highest quality that can be found in the pre-built professional ovens review. The refractory material allows a constant and uniform distribution of the heat for crunchy pizzas baked in a very few minutes. VALORIANI BABY The most recent Valoriani oven perfect to be used in every environment, the first domestic oven with professional features. It is ready for use, light and handy - either by hand or on wheels - to meet space and movement requirements. The BABY VALORIANI can be wood or gas fired. An oven designed not only for families who wish to have professional quality at home, but also for pizza professionals who need a practical and transportable oven fitting every situations. VALORIANI BABY STANDARD
VALORIANI BABY LUXURY
Outside dome in painted metal
Outside dome in painted metal
Front in painted metal
Front in stainless steel
Stand in stamped metal sheet with one shelf
Support with manually operated legs and two shelves
Dome in refractory conglomerate of professional quality Dome in refractory conglomerate of professional quality Baking floor in refractory cotto
Baking floor in refractory cotto
available color: red, black and white
available color: red, black and white
VALORANI VERACE “Valoriani Verace” is a professional oven that can work also by gas. It is the only one that, even by gas, maintains the very same characteristics of Lower Insulation, Baking Floor Structure and Recycling Heating System, and guarantees the respect of the baking technique of the real Neapolitan pizza, as officially recognized by the AVPN. A stateof-the-art oven, its Recycling Heating System increases its sustainability through the recovery of heat emissions, and their free recycling. Valoriani Verace follows the legislation about heat emissions when working by wood and the rules to obtain the True Neapolitan Pizza mark (AVPN).
Many others have tried to copy our ovens, we take that as a compliment, even if VALORIANI’s ovens are and will always be the one and only ORIGINALS. Thank you, MASSIMO VALORIANI
ForniTheValoriani originals
VALORIANI
VALORIANI
Valoriani Baby A professional mini-oven at your service
dellanesta.it
The first gas and wood-fired PROFESSIONAL oven with the floor in REFRACTORY COTTO They represent the best solution for perfectly cooked pizza.
• 2 versions: Standard and Luxury • Light • Manageable • Suitable for every situation • VESUVIO SERIE IGLOO/OT measures expressed in cm Front opening
Total Flue Pizza capacity weight manifold ø 28/30cm
100 ø
100x100
140x150
54x28
1000
20
4/5
120 ø
120x120
160X170
55x28
1300
20
5/6
140 ø
140x140
180X190
55x28
1500
20
8/9
120X160
120x160
160X210
55x28
1500
20
8/9
140X160
140x160
180X210
55x28
1650
20
11/12
140X180
140x180
180X230
55x28
1800
20-25
14/15
180 ø
180x180
225X245
55x28
2100
20-25
17/19
the Company reserves the right to make changes without notice - pictures text and numbers are indicative
MOD.
Inside Outside Dimensions dimensions
Supply: Wood or Gas
measures expressed in cm
PATENTED
BABY
• VALORIANI VERACE
Inside Dimensions
measures expressed in cm
Inside MOD. dome’s sizes Outside dimensions
120 ø 140 ø
Front opening
Weight kg
120x120
160x170x h190 with stand
45x23 on request 56x23
1600
140x140
180x190x h190 with stand
45x23 on request 56x23
1900
LUXURY
STANDARD
60x60
60x60
Outside dimensions without stand
81x76x61h
81x76x61h
Outside dimensions with stand and wheels
87x87x160h
83x83x160h
Front opening
36x21
36x21
Total weight
148 kg
148 kg
Flue pipes (Ø)
ø 15 cm
ø 15 cm
Burner weight
7 kg
7 kg
Refrattari Valoriani S.r.l. Via Caselli alla Fornace, 213 • 50066 REGGELLO (FI) tel. 055 86 80 69 • fax 055 86 95 992 valoriani@valoriani.it • www.valoriani.it
VALORIANI
blog.valoriani.it
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twitter.com/Valoriani
p. 76
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
The return of the ancient Italian grains
— Bakers, pastry chefs and pizzaioli who are using ancient grains are always more and more and so are the grains selected by Italian geneticists along time —
T 
he Italian food culture is rediscovering the value of their own identity and are enhancing, focusing more and more, as far as the white art, the ancient Italian wheat flour or those produced in Italy in the last century by Italian geneticists, whose maximum representative was Nazareno Strampelli (1866-1942). First of all, however, we open a window on ancient Rome, where we find spelt Triticum turgodum ssp dicoccum that, among the grains grown in Italy over two thousand years ago, was by far the most widely used and was the staple food of the Roman legions and still finds wide application in central Italy and even more in Garfagnana (mountainous area in the province of Lucca).
by Laura Nascinben
p. 78
year 2016
pizza e pasta italiana
From Khorasan to Senator Cappelli — Thanks largely to Bob Quin, the American man, who, from Montana (USA) spread the world with the brand Kamut, getting an incredible success, an ancient grain (imported from the Mediterranean), also in Italy was rediscovered the existence of the same grain, grown mainly in the central and southern regions and in the islands. It is the Khorasan: native of the same region of Iran, a grain that over the centuries has spread on the shores of the eastern Mediterranean, arriving in Italy, where it is grown with increasing deserved success still today. Khorasan wheat (Triticum turgidum ssp turanicum), is left with a high protein content and good levels of beta-carotene and selenium. Currently the durum wheat Khorasan is, in fact, very much appreciated by bakers and, especially in Puglia, its cultivation is gradually spreading, given the growing demand from bakers and pizza makers of durum wheat this, really extraordinary. Khorasan in Abruzzo and other areas is also called Saragolla and it is said that it was introduced in the fifth century AD in this region by a migration of Proto-Bulgars from Egypt. The name derives from Saragolla Sarga meaning yellow and golyo meaning seed, from which "yellow bean". Other very interesting grain is the Graziella Ra of ancient Egyptian origin, brought in Italy less than fifty years ago by an archaeologist returning from a mission of excavations in Egypt, valued and launched at the end of the 70’s by the partisan-agronomist Paride Allegri (19202012), one of the leaders of the Italian biodynamic. Currently this excellent wheat is grown primarily in the Marche and is particularly rich in protein, minerals and selenium. The name was given by Paride Allegri in memory of the daughter of the archaeologist, who tragically died during the guerrilla war in the Apennines.
Nazareno Strampelli
Very important and appreciated by the manufacturers of pasta is wheat Senatore Cappelli, one of the most successful crossings Nazarene Strampelli. It is a cultivar of wheat autumn obtained at the beginning of the last century at the Research Centre for Cereal Research of Foggia, for genealogical selection of the North African population "Jenah Rhetifah". Launched in 1915, the new variety of wheat was dedicated to the Marquis Abruzzo Raffaele Cappelli, Senator of the Kingdom of Italy, which, in the last years of the nineteenth century, together with his brother Antonio, had started the agrarian reform in Puglia and supported him in Strampelli its activities, making available experimental fields, laboratories and other resources. This grain is still quite extraordinary cultivated after a century, especially in southern Italy (Basilicata, Apulia, Sardinia) but also in the Marches, for the production of superior quality pasta, bread and pizza biological niche for which this is It is developing a market continuing to rise. Since the beginning of the last century until the 60’s Senatore Cappelli he has been the basis of the genetic improvement of durum wheat and is in fact present in the genome of almost all cultivars of wheat being grown in Italy and many other internationally.
Prodotti alimentari di Alta qualità distribuiti da più di trent’anni alle migliori aziende del settore sono la garanzia della competenza e dell’assoluta serietà dell’azienda Sanfelici. Rispettando i più elevati standard qualitativi l’azienda affida la produzione dei suoi prodotti a realtà specializzate in grado di selezionare e controllare personalmente le materie prime, di altissima qualità, che verranno trasformate in ottimi prodotti gastronomici distribuiti da Sanfelici direttamente a ristoranti, bar, trattorie, pizzerie, osterie. Più di tremila contatti in continua crescita sottolineano la professionalità e la puntualità di una ditta che con un ottimo rapporto qualità/prezzo cerca di promuovere giornalmente la cultura del food & beverage nel mondo. Accurata selezione e continua ricerca sono le parole chiave per il successo di Sanfelici.
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Ardito, Mentana and San Pastore — We pause, finally, three varieties of wheat, which not only made the history of wheat in Italy in the last century, but many are still amateurs. Let's start with Ardito, wheat autumn, consisting of Nazarene Strampelli in 1920 with the cross (x Wilhelmina Rieti) x Akagomughi. It was one of the first varieties consist intersection, dramatically improving the low yields obtained by local people until then cultivated. This variety also spread in the Veneto from 1930, serving for several years, the 10.5% of the area under wheat, before being replaced by new constitutions of Strampelli. The Mentana is a variety of wheat obtained from Nazarene Strampelli in 1923. Widespread most around 1940, its cultivation has reached soon in the country 900,000 hectares, surpassing the other varieties grown. The precocity of this variety advised delayed sowing or spring especially in central and southern which has maintained the largest spread. We conclude this brief historical review with the San Pastore 14. This variety has been obtained for re-election at the hands of Cirillo Maliani, disciple of Strampelli, variety obtained from S. Shepherd Nazarene Strampelli in 1931 with the intersection Table x Villa Glori. The S. Shepherd family 14 was one of the most important varieties made in our country. It has been widely cultivated throughout the country from 1954 to 1975, being disseminated abroad. At its height it spread far exceeded the one million hectares. In Veneto it was grown on about 155,000 hectares (more than 50% of the surface in wheat). The S. Shepherd fam. 14 is characterized by a high production, suitable to the plain and the average hill, with good hardiness and tolerance to plant diseases.
Towards the future — There is a desire for identity, that does not mean closing the boorish localism villager. Italy is an important part of Europe, it is Europe, immersed in globalization, but it has a duty to maintain their identity, culture, in food, in fashion, in the wake of a civilization that was born in Greece, s 'developed in Rome, has run evolved with Christianity, then buying additional contributions that make Italy a country of the most modern and advanced. One of the values that characterize Italy's power, in fact anywhere is enhanced and used as an example the "Mediterranean diet" Italian that is based on local products. And also bread, bread sticks, pizza, desserts must then be children of this extraordinary Diet Healthy, products with flour and semolina grains Italian. For this the future will see further growth in the Peninsula ancient wheats of our house.
— The End —
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More than just Flour Everything is special in Dallagiovanna’s flours: intuition in choosing the most suitable wheats, methods of analysis and research, best tradition processes and the most avant-guard machinery. Last but not least there are the Masters of the White Art Laboratory, important professionals and teachers in the leading schools in Europe, whom with their experience are fundamental for the continuous improvement of production.
Multi-purpose flours for your products. Taste has new colours: try them all!
100% nature, 100% high quality Our wheat comes exclusively from the EU, USA and Canada, and the majority is from Piacenza”KM. 0”. We also require a wheat passport from our suppliers, stating the origin and any treatments the grains were subjected to. The grains are stored naturally, with cool air and without pesticides. We are the only mill to wash grain using potable water, and once the kernel is adequately dampened, milling is even and slow, without ever damaging the starches and protein. Finally, we implement constant Quality Control, thanks to the professionals in our Production Department, our Analysis and Research Laboratory and the White Art Masters who work in constant collaboration to render every blend the perfect Flour. WHEAT WASHING The practice of washing is – or better was – used mainly to clean the wheat and to eliminate impurities before the milling process; the flour becomes whiter and the grains can be milled in a more homogeneous way. After a first air cleaning, grains are dipped in water for some hours, according to their properties. It is a very important process, now forgotten by big companies that prefers, for financial reasons, dry cleaning followed by conveyor conditioning. The Molino Dallagiovanna, along with few other small high-quality artisan producers, considers cleaning one of the key requirements for creating a superior flour, regardless of the extra costs and profit margins.
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THE INTERVIEW
A Conversation about yeast and more
by D.M.
In this issue we meet Prof. Antoniazzi, a researcher and professor in Food Technology to talk particularly about yeast and leavened products, and we would like to pose some questions that very often our readers pose. These are questions the answers to which many readers probably already know, but the spirit of this magazine is always to talk to everyone, including perhaps newcomers.
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Good morning Professor. Antoniazzi. First of all, since we want to address an audience as wide as possible, we would like to know the various types of yeast for pizza that an operator can use. Good morning to all the readers of Pizza and Pasta Italiana. If we speak of yeasts we first have to say that the yeast employed for pizza are essentially two: to. yeast or compressed yeast or brewer’s yeast b. natural yeast or mother yeast or sourdough The differences of the final products obtained with the two types of yeast are substantial mainly dependent on the scent and flavor. The first you can buy weekly and presents no difficulty either in the transposition and use. As for compressed yeast, we can find the same but powder type on the market, and it has a with a life of one year, but it is more expensive and does not have the activity of the fresh one. The yeast needs a daily renewal if you do not want to use the powder type that does not have exactly the performance of the fresh sourdough, but it is a compromise between the result and the difficulties of its preparation with the traditional method.
At this point, we ask pros and cons of various kinds, from a practical point of view Yeasts - pros and cons: Pro sourdough is in the taste of the finished product, against the lies of course in the long daily work for its preparation as well as the difficulty, sometimes even for experts, to be able to maintain a constant quality, because it easily He may face two defects: a high acidity and a lack of volume growth.
What are the methodologies for the correct storage of different types of yeast? The compressed yeast is kept in the refrigerator up to a month, but some exceptions exist a widespread distribution weekly that guarantees the use within a maximum of 15 days. Aging yeast or dry with the formation of cracks in the dough or tends to form on the surface of the dark spots, due to lysis of the cells died, when to be destroyed if you do not want products of poor quality The natural yeast has to be prepared at the time, and then is tolerated a very short time from its preparation. If you have problems on the schedules, I suggest you use the yeast powder that has a life of six months, but preferably used in the first two months of life.
Whereas a dough “base” (or 1.8 kg of flour per liter of water) simple and typical of many operators, there is a minimum quantity scientifically defined to create the start of a process of leavening and dough maturation? If not, why? When we mix water, flour and yeast, the latter if we return in the temperature range in which it can grow (20-20 ° C) begins to multiply and form a series of metabolites that will give flavor to the pizza. Why this happen enough that there is the optimum temperature for yeast growth, there is a number of yeasts, but even if you do not add yeast in the flour there are a certain amount and then the water that gives vitality to yeast. If the water is low, say 700 ml, the yeast will work the same, but there will be great difficulty in training. If instead of kneading a dose Industrial example 10kg, you want to knead only 1kg, the phenomenon is seen that above the dough but being small enough, will have a higher amount of oxygen inside and above the surface and this makes that the yeast tend to change his tangle metabolic, multiplying more but producing less alcohol and so even if there is a little slight difference between the two end-products.
It ‘really harmful to add in the process of kneading yeast and salt in succession? If so, why? Salt tends to bind to water and thus increases the osmotic pressure of the dough, favoring the dehydration of the yeast cell and therefore its death. Under the microscope it is possible to see the yeast cells are oval but simultaneously turgid and that placed in contact with the salt, they start to shrivel, precisely for the loss of water present in the yeast cell.
However, there is a minimal amount of salt, if not added after the yeast in the dough, it hurts? Salt in addition to the flavor is added to a mixture to assist the formation of gluten. In the kneader under the mechanical action and the presence of water, gluten molecules tend to bind, what in technical terms is called “formation of the dough”. If you do not add all of the salt, the dough is less elastic and less stretchable, whereby the formation of the shape is more difficult. You can make up for this defect by increasing the rest time between kneading and forming ball or between the preparation of this and the drafting of the final product.
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THE INTERVIEW A very low amount or no yeast in the dough (we assume always the ns example of 1.8 kg of flour per liter of water) affects the process of oxidation of the dough itself? This is an interesting question ... Let’s say that on that oxidation of the mix there is a big difference in volume growth. Here also you can make up for this defect, working on a rather long time, in this case we must not forget that in the flour there are about 1,000 yeasts per gram and that may develop. This is the trick to make pizza without yeast or better to say pizzas without the addition of yeast, where they work yeasts naturally present in the flour.
In our industry there are different business realities that are facing or are entering the freezing process of the dough. We would like to understand from you what they are, if there are, the / types of yeast most suitable and resistant. Frozen dough occur a series of transformations at the chemical level, it is for this reason that it is always good use of enhancers that can overcome the defects induced by freezing. Typically these improvers are based emulsifiers such as mono and diglycerides and lecithins. The damages shall be borne both yeast dough that is no longer able to hold back the gas carried by the yeast. During the freezing we have a loss of vitality or yeasts fermentative capacity and a decrease in the death of many yeasts. This is particularly serious when the cells are more vulnerable or when they are multiplying, which means three actions: a. to over dose yeast
biographical notes
b. freeze the dough just finished top image
c. freeze as fast as possible or with a scrubber. Dough Balls
The second damage induced by freezing is borne by the lower capacity of the gluten to hold the gases, in particular the dead cells of yeasts release a molecule called glutathione which has a reducing action on the dough which will tend to lose volume and to widen.
Mother yeast Unleavened dough balls
Dr. Prof. FRANCO ANTONIAZZI graduated in Food Science and Technology, the University of Milan in 1969 and has authored more than 80 scientific and technical publications and four patents. It assistant at the Institute of Food Technology of the University of Milan, conducts research for several leading food companies; was Scientific Adviser to the agribusiness sector of the Ministry of University and Scientific and Technological Research - Rome from 1993 to 1999. He is a member of the following associations: Institute of Food Technologists - Chicago, American Association for Cereal Chemists - St. Paul, the American Association of Bakery Engineers - Chicago Current and technical adviser of different food and confectionery companies: Barilla, Trunks, Bindi, Parmalat, Rana Carrefour, Nutrexpa (Spain), Chipita (Grece), Universal Robina (Philipines), Visconti (Brasil), Crown (Korea), Ultraeuropa (Poland).
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Introduction
C
ereals are a group of grass plants cultivated by man. Their grains, rich in starch and nitrogen substances can be ground to make flour for bread making or used for animal fodder. Cereals are also important for industrial use, for example barley in the preparation of beer, oil is obtained from corn, paper, or even hats are made by weaving straw. Most cereals belong to the “Graminaceous” family, others of less importance belong to other families, for example the Saracenic grain which belongs to the “ Poligonacee”. Cereals, as stated before, are important both for human and animal alimentation, they also provide raw materials for starch, gluten, sugar, cellulose, alcohol, beverages and pharmaceuticals. The most important and popular crops are wheat or corn, rice, maize or sweet corn, barley, oats rye, broomcorn and millet.
flours characteristics and purposes
by Giampiero Rorato
p. 89
If you look at wheat grains they appear as seeds but closer examination shows them to be fruits. Each grain consists of a fruit leaf with its edges rolled over and grown together, the furrow which runs the length of the grain being the line of joint. Its fruit, grains and kernel are a rich source of carbohydrates. Wheat is the most commonly found cereal, and because of its importance in bread making it’s also important in pizza production. It is grown all over the world almost, adapting well to different terrains and climates. The Latin name for wheat is “Triticum” and it has been the most important cereal since prehistoric times. There are actually over ten different types of Triticum, but only two are of great importance for human alimentation: “Triticum vulgare” and “Triticum durum”. The Triticum vulgare or soft grain is the best suited for bread and pizza making, and in general for any oven cooked product that requires rising. Preferring a warm climate, it is grown in Italy especially in the central north. The Triticum durum, hard grain or bran is used exclusively for the production of pasta or specific mixtures. It is cultivated above all in the south, given that the climate is hot and dry. It has a higher gluten content than soft grain.
The production of flour In order to be used in food products all grains and in particular wheat has to be milled through a 3 phase milling process: cleaning, conditioning and milling. The cleaning is used to remove foreign substances (seeds of other plants, straw, stones, etc.). The conditioning consists in wetting the grains with water in different times and with established quantities to facilitate the separation of the outermost layers of the caryopsis and its breakage. The grinding of the kernel consists of breaking into particles. Modernly and industrial level large part of the milling takes place in socalled rolling mills in which by passing the grains between different series of steel cylinders opposite and sieving appropriately in the various steps can be obtained flours from different parts of the kernel with a different refining. A different kind of milling is represented by millstones where you can immediately get a flour that contains all integral parts of the kernel.
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By grinding and sifting of wheat, according to the hardness of the kernel you can get a flour that is called semolina. The durum granular product is a sharp edge with a well defined particle size used for the production of dry pasta. In bakery products it uses especially the socalled semolina or durum wheat flour. Since the grain cereals has not homogeneous, but mainly in the outer parts stratified and considered that the various layers have a different composition, separating the villages of grinding arising from external parties to those resulting from the innermost parts you can get flour different compositions and consequently technological and nutritional quality. The different flours can also have different color and different denominations that in Italy, for wheats are defined by law. For example flour resulting primarily the outer layers are darker while those coming from the endosperm are whiter. From the point of view of the chemical composition of the different flours they are characterized by their content of starch, protein, dietary fiber and minerals.
The different chemical composition will also determine their different technological attitude. A flour worth of mentioning is the socalled Manitoba named after a province of Canada where it is grown. Currently this term indicates a kind of wheat flour from grains grown in North America and capable of making dough called “strong�. From the technological point of view it is important to distinguish between cereals naked or clothed. Cereals clothes (first) have glumes and husks (siliceous leaves that protect the grain) which adhere strongly to the grain that they need to be removed with suitable processes for decortication abrasion and make it edible: belong to this group as rice, oats, millet, spelled. This type of cereals are particularly suitable for the production of whole grain flours. The cereals instead naked as common wheat and durum have glumes and fragile husk that come off easily during threshing and leave free the kernel are used both for the production of refined flour than whole grain flours. The species of cereals other than wheat (corn, rice, etc.) and the pseudo-
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cereals, are used for the production of flours which have technological characteristics different from those of wheats themselves, in particular the flours that for the absence of certain protein fractions They can not give rise to the creation of the gluten by addition of water and further kneading. These are particularly suitable for the production of so-called gluten-free or gluten free. As regards the flour of legumes that have no protein capable of forming gluten, they are used in addition to cereal flour of common wheat and in particular because in addition to having a high content of proteins with functional properties interesting for the production of products leavened, they contain substances with emulsifying properties and antioxidants such as lecithin in soybean.
Regarding soybean meal, for example, its addition improves the absorption capacity of the water in the mixtures and their workability, while in the bread improves the structure of the crumb. Different flours can then effectively contribute to the production of foods with different characteristics as well as nutrition.
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SPIRAL DOUGH MIXERS
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Flour under Italian law The technological quality of wheat flour produced and traded in Italy is governed by some national laws in particular the Law 580 of 1967 as amended by Presidential Decree 187 of 2001, which defines the wheat flour intended for bread-making as the product obtained by grinding and sifting the wheat freed from foreign substances and impurities. In accordance with the legislation are distinguished 5 different types of wheat flour type 00, and in particular, 0, 1, 2 and integral. All types must have a maximum moisture content of 14.50% and are distinguished among them for the different ash content (maximum 0.55% on dry matter for 00; 0.65 for the 0, 0.80 for the 1; 0.95 for the 2; minimum 1.30 and maximum 1.70 for the integral) and protein (9% on dry matter for 00; 11 to 0; 12 to 1, 2 and integral.
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
Crackers
The different ash content is an index of the quantity of fiber present in the flour and coming from the outer layers of the grain. The same laws governing similarly flours of hard wheat for trade which are produced in the types semolina, bran whole wheat flour, whole wheat flour. Similarly to soft wheat flour, those of durum wheat must be marketed with a maximum humidity of 14.50%, the ashes must be at most 0.90 for durum, between 0.90 and 1.35 for the caster, between 1.40 and 1.80 for the full durum wheat semolina and between 1.36 and 1.70 for wheat flour (% dry matter). The protein content rate is fixed at 10.50 for semolina and 11.50% of dry matter for other types.
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p. 100
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THE SECTOR OF REFRIGERATION
Refrigeration is the key element of modern cooking by Caterina Orlandi
p. 101
In 2015, the international exhibition Host in Milan has strived to build an area devoted to Italian companies, which can be found in a great number and are well organized and operate in the refrigeration sector, such as producers of refrigerated refrigerated pizza preparation tables, fridges, freezers for dough storage and proofers. It is not a surprise that the sector of refrigeration, that is already a great slice of the Italian food market, is very healthy. We would like to take a moment to discuss the refrigeration techniques adopted in pizzeria and stolen from the bakery and pastry world, from which everyone applies changes to his/her needs. The usage of refrigeration in nowadays bakery technologies comes from the new working needs which main objective is to avoid the night and holiday work. For example, the technique of controlled dough proofing and maturation is used for bakery, pastry and pizza dough mixes by using temperatures, humidity and time appropriately; slowing own or completely blocking the fermentation activity of yeast, keeping the dough at least for 3 or 4 days and at the end of the cycle, starting a scheduled fermentation or maturation of the dough.
Proofers have many advantages, first of all as already stated it eliminates night work, above all for bakery shops, but above all in pizza shops, where more and more long leavening dough techniques are used, in order to obtain, in this case, more digestible dough mixes, lately it has acquired great popularity and at the end it has advantages on profits, since it eliminates of the dough and yeast wastes, and at the end of the day, the left over dough can be used or stored and then used and all this leads to a decrease in the use of yeast. In discuss in deep about the whole process and how the cold chain works on our dough mixes, it is necessary to say that, as for bakery, the cold chain foresees 3 phases, that are the abatement to -6C°, the maintenance, in other words the product from -6C° is taken to 2-4C°, for a period of time going from 24 to 72 hours, to finish proofing the temperature is taken gradually from 2-4C° to 25C°, to accomplish the fermentation process. As we all know, for long leavening techniques, we need to use strong flours, protein index (300 W or more), with a balanced P/L value (relationship between the two unsoluble proteins gliadin and glutenin). The advised dough making techniques, that are looked after by nowadays pizza makers, are mainly indirect dough mixes, biga, polish, left over dough and sour dough.
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What is maturation of dough?
The maturing of dough is not a well known aspect amongst pizzaioli and yet it is highly significant for making the pizzas lighter, more digestible and more fragrant. This reaction shows that with baked products, pizza dough is amongst these, the longer one waits to bake pizzas, the more amino acids (the smallest part of the protein) and glucose (the
smallest part of complex sugar or starch) will be present. Going back to the “Maillard Reaction�, which states that a dough rich in amino acids and simple sugars, which has been baked at high temperature (like pizza) creates a special combination between these elements so as to produce a lighter, more digestible and more fragrant pizza, hence a better one!
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BAKING THE PIZZA AND THE DIFFERENT PIZZA OVENS by Caterina Orlandi
OVEN TEMPERATURE
U
sually between 275° and 320° (527°608° F) (but this could be conditional to different factors). Put in the dough with its ingredients (pizza), the heat expands into the oven from the inside through the surface and sides (inside the pizza). A process of heat transmission by convection heat. Moreover, the heat expands into the inside of the pizza. A process of heat by rays. Finally from the oven bed, the heat expands towards the base of the pizza. A process of heat transmission by conduction. In the product one can find a temperature gradient with a maximum of 100° C (212 °F). In this phase there is a movement of water molecules from the inside to the outside which clearly move to the surface (especially the uncovered parts without toppings) and evaporate.
In the first phase the temperature tends, for a short time, to lessen, then rise, but without going over 100 °C (212 °F) as long as there is water inside the pizza. With the passing of the baking time the water molecules evaporate, which tend to have a rapid rising in temperature, in particular on the surface (by now without water molecules ready for evaporation) and therefore forms a crust (around the edge of the pizza and the uncovered parts). The crust becomes thicker and harder in this cooking phase. If the water flow ceases completely, the burning process begins (the pizza is first golden, then brown, then black in some parts and finally completely black). The temperature of the product is always inferior to 100°C (212 °F) and is exactly 98°C (208.4°F), but this depends on the size of the mass of pizza, therefore on the
p. 105
weight and thickness (this is the internal temperature). Actually, in thick pizzas (Sicilian types) the temperature does not rise 65-70° C (149-158 °F) internally with the cooking characteristics that we all know. The water and the volatile substances evaporate gradually at temperatures characteristic for each type of substance and, in particular, water evaporates well before 98°C (208.4 °F), but only at 98°C (208.4 °F) does it reach the maximum and the temperature does not rise anymore and evaporation is accelerated until there is water available. On the surface, the temperature quickly reaches 140-170°C (284-338 °F), higher temperatures, for a brief period, giving a too dark colour and an unpleasant taste to the pizza (at least on the parts that remain uncovered by the toppings). This could compromise the balance of the
taste and smell of the pizza. After around 1 minute the pizza sustains a rapid growth in volume. At half way into cooking time it reaches 80% of its volume. At ¾ into cooking time it reaches 100% of its final volume. The average cooking time of a pizza is approx. 2-3 minutes.
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PIZZA OVENS
THE FIRE-WOOD OVEN
T
he fire-wood oven is the most traditional and most used method for cooking pizzas. The oven may be made by craftsmen in the exact place required or bought from a specialist. The difference between the two being, that a craftsman must be very good at his trade, unfortunately this is not always the case. The business that produces only wood ovens is specialised in that field, and have highly qualified staff that carry out heat tests all of the oven parts and also laboratory tests on cement mixtures and other materials that make for a perfect oven. The ideal oven is one which maintains the temperature, is well isolated, consumes little wood and has a good chimney expiatory.
Another very important good point in favour of prefabricated ovens, they are guaranteed by the company and can be installed in one working day. Once installed, a new oven should be heated gradually so as not to suddenly subject the refractory materials to temperatures too high. This would cause the materials to dilate too quickly, causing damage in the form of swelling or cracks that would damage the oven. Place a piece of wood, preferably beech-wood, this is the most used type in Italy, into the centre of the oven, light it and leave to burn slowly. Continue this for around an hour moving the fire to the side that you would
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normally use in your oven. Where one puts the fire makes no difference from a functional point of view, so one can place the fire to the left or right, whichever is ones preference. Once the fire is in the desired position continue to slowly build it up, this heats the oven uniformly. If one has a few days before having to make pizzas, repeat the heating operation a couple of times a day. When a firewood oven is used regularly every day, an hour is sufficient to obtain a heated oven ready to bake pizzas. It is important to remember to close the oven well at the end of the day, this way the oven will still be warm for next time,
and can reach the ideal temperature quicker. In the case of a functioning oven, the preparation for its daily use requires lighting some wood in the centre of the oven for 15 minutes, (it’s advisable to put some pieces of wood in the oven two hours before, so that they dry out well). Move the fire to the side usually used and continue to build it up. After about 30 - 45 minutes, depending on the type of oven, the temperature reached will be optimal 350- 400°C (662-752 °F). The pizzaiolo understands when the oven has reached the correct temperature by observing the colour of the dome. To begin with the dome is dark, then, as it heats up it becomes lighter, when it is light enough the oven is ready. Before baking, wipe a slightly damp cloth over
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PIZZA OVENS
the oven base so as to eliminate any dirt or ash that may be present. It is advisable to put a grate in the oven and place the wood inside it (this is needed to maintain a good, continual flame). The embers and the ash are seperated by a metal divider. In the oven there must always be a constant, small flame that is needed to maintain the oven at the correct temperature and as a source of light, to control the cooking of the pizzas. The pizzas are placed into the oven using the correct pizza peel and placed on the oven base. The pizza in the oven cooks through the heat that it receives from the oven base and is called cooking by CONDUCTION, from that present inside the oven, and is called cooking by CONVENTION, and from heat rays that come from the dome, and is called cooking by RADIATION. These three types of heat and the high temperature are indispensable for a well cooked pizza. The pizza in the oven, after a certain amount of time (1-2 minutes) must be turned 180°C (356°F), putting it in the same place because, the part that has been
exposed to the fire receives more heat and therefore cooks more rapidly. When the pizza is well cooked all over remove from the oven and served hot to the customer.
THE ELECTRIC AND GAS OVENS
T
hese types of ovens do not have the tradition, or warmth, in the visual sense as that of a fire-wood oven, in return they cook the pizza as well as a fire-wood oven and are easy to use. The temperature is read directly and can be regulated. The pizzas do not need to be turned and can be cooked directly on the refractory material, or in suitable pans (as are used frequently abroad). The gas and electric ovens are used the most for the cooking of take-away pan pizzas (99%).
GIRARROSTI - CHURRASCHE - PIZZA GRILL GRIGLIE - MULTIGRILL PIZZAGRILL PRG/3 GYROS GHI V1
CHURRASCO CM20
DELTA 126/P ELBA PLUS 36/P
CAPRI 12/P
CAMINO 84/P
TORRE 84/P
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THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF
OIL
T
he olive tree, a really old plant, has always been the symbol of abundance, glory and peace. This tree has always been thought as sacred and the oil taken from its fruits was used not only as food but also for religious purposes; furthermore Egyptians considered it as a gift from God, Phoenician spread its use throughout trade, defying it as “liquid gold”, Greeks and Romans used it for medical treatments and as gas for votive lamps, Jewes used it to oil their King, Christians used it for most significant rituals.
Romans were the first to build olive oil pressing tools, and therefore they perfected oil preservation techniques. According to food tradition, olive oil represents one of the most fundamental products of the Mediterranean agriculture, of undoubted nutritional value both for the chemical composition and for its organoleptic traits enhanced by its usage as seasoning. The fruit is a drupe of variable size and shape, according to its cultivar and the climate conditions of its cultivation site. From the outside towards the inside, it can be distinguished as follows: Epicarp or peel The mesocarp or pulp, that represents 70-85% of the fruit Endocarp or nut that contains the seed The peel, when maturing, changes its colours, going from green to yellow to violet, until it gets black. The maturation process is called time of Veraison and it varies according to the cultivar and the environment of cultivation of the oil.
The enormous variety of flavours of olive oil, makes it a food that can be used in any type of cuisine. Olive oil can be fruited pr seasoned , sweet or savoury, strong or delicate; its taste is strongly determined by different natural factors. The extra virgin olive oil is the product obtained by squeezing the olives through mechanical processes and this characteristic makes it a true food, natural and with a unique aromatic and gustatory process. There are many types, the most excellent olive oil is the “extra virgin olive oil”, and this product is obtained when high quality olives are used, that are taken to the oil mill right after the harvest and worked carefully. According to its degree of acidity and purety, different categories of oil can be detected:
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POMACE OIL EXTRAVIRGIN OLIVE OIL Extra virgin olive oil is the only vegetable oil obtained only with pressure, without manipulation or chemical, differently from seeds oil (soy, peanut, sun flower etc.). It contains vitamin E, A, K, D, which all have antioxidant properties and a protective effect on the organism cells. It has an acidity level of 0,8%. Virgin Olive Oil The acidity degree is equal to almost 2% and as for the extra virgin it is not refined. Dott.ssa Marisa Cammarano - biologist nutritionist -
Olive Oil It is made up by refined olive oil to which virgin olive oil is added to improve its taste. The maximum acidity degree is 1.5%.
It has a maximum acidity degree equal to 1,5% and it is made with pomace and some extra virgin olive oil. It is of fundamental importance to store the extra virgin olive oil in the right way, and if it is not done correctly, it can compromise all the efforts made in order to obtain a oil of high quality in the phases of production and of transformation. During storage olive oil tends to oxidize, therefore it is necessary to pay attention to the natural phenomenon of conservation to warranty the consumer to buy an excellent product. A good quality olive oil gives the best results after 4 months of maturation, but after 18-24 months it looses for a great part its freshness and fragrance. The oil doesn’t go bad but it looses many of its components, vitamin E, and some more oxidants, it changes its aromas and taste. Since heat, temperature changes, air and light cause a quick oxidization, the oil has to be kept in a tightly closed container, kept in the dark, with a temperature of 12 – 18 C°.
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FOOD SCIENCE
BENEFITS OF OLIVE OIL FOR THE DIGESTIVE SYSTEM
food science
E
xtra virgin olive oil, either raw or heated, is the most recommended fat for nutrition, not only for its aroma but also its taste, but because differently from all other dietary oils, it is mostly made up by monounsaturated fat acids, with the right content of linoleic acid fats, polyphenols, vitamin E and beta carotene. The presence of all these antioxidant elements makes the extra virgin olive oil particularly important for our health. A type of diet rich in animal fats improves the quantity of cholesterol in the blood, one of the most risk factors in cardio vascular disease. Indeed vegetable oils have a protective action. With hindsight we can say that in particular extra virgin olive oil has, if compared to other vegetable oils, greater positive health effects. Not only for its peculiarity, but also because extra virgin olive oil is the only oil produced with the simple pressure on the fruit, with no other physical-chemical manipulations. Seed oil on the other hand is produced by using special tools and chemical such as butane, propane, exane. The extra virgin olive oil is a kind of product that both cooked and uncooked is easy to be disted by the organism because it percentage of fat acids is very similar to that contained the breast milk, which is the perfect food. It has been scientifically verified that its usage favours the decrease of the bad cholesterol (LDL) and a contextual increase of
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the good cholesterol (HDL), helping to prevent the cardiovascular diseases and osteosclerosis. Extra virgin olive oil for its nutrition characteristics is therefore the main food for a healthy nutrition able to improve health conditions. The risk of coronary diseases is even higher among inhabitants of olive oil non consuming countries, if compared with that of Mediterranean populations with a high olive oil consumption. Extra virgin olive oil used as antioxidant and antiradical: The presence of tocopherol and poliphenol gives extra virgin olive oil and important role in the antioxidant activity and anti radical limiting the aging of cells. It contains fat acids similar to those found in the body and a high quantity of vitamins. It defends the body from skin alterations, from digestive issues, and from cells ageing phenomena and it helps to improve the wellbeing of the body and the quality of life. Olive oil has exceptional qualities which vary dependently from each area of cultivation. It is not only easy to be digested and absorbed, but it also helps digestion. The qualities of this product help the organism of people of any age. In order to better appreciate its qualities, it is advisable to use it raw, for salads, dressings etc. but it is also excellent cooked and fried. One must be able to appreciate the true qualities of this product as they are truly unique and irreplaceable. The extra virgin olive oil is a staple food in the diet of children as it is rich in oleic acid; It is particularly indicated in the diet of those who do sports because it is readily digestible energy source and is essential in old age as it limits the loss of calcium in bones. Also aromas in the oil, make it particularly tasty foods. Protects the heart and arteries, it slows the aging brain, prevents atherosclerosis and lowers the level of cholesterol in the blood, and, above all, fights free radicals. The extra virgin olive oil, therefore, is not only a treat for the palate, is also good for health.
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LA SCIENZA DELL’ALIMENTAZIONE
DIGESTIBILITY OF EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
A
role played by oil, which everyone can appreciate, it is definitely the particular fragrance that it gives the plates, increasing the palatability of food and promoting the digestive secretory stimuli, thereby inducing a better digestibility. Food prepared with extra virgin olive oil have excellent gastric and intestinal tolerance. In fact, olive oil protects the mucous membranes and prevents the effects of hyperchlorhydria, thus reducing the risk of gastric and duodenal ulcers. It exerts a laxative, fasting more effective, and helps to correct the chronic constipation. It stimulates the gall bladder and inhibits the secretion of bile. It has also protective effect against the formation of gallstones, due to activation of the bile flow and increase high density lipoprotein (HDL). The incidence of biliary lithiasis is lower in regions with high consumption of extra virgin olive oil. Therapeutic aspects of extra virgin olive oil: The extra virgin olive oil by its composition plays a safe protective effect on arteries, the stomach and liver. In recent years it was possible to know the properties of diets rich in monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic) they act: in diabetics, reducing glucose levels in the blood; decreasing blood pressure, both diastolic (maximum) as the systolic (minimum); decreasing the secretion of gastric acid of the small intestine, important for those who suffer from ulcers (stomach or duodenum) or dyspepsia improving the emptying of the gall bladder; preventing the formation of stones, producing a lower activity of secretion from the pancreas, which is important in diseases such as pancreatitis. The extra virgin olive oil is, however, always been considered halfway between food and medicine. Conclusions
The olive oil from the above that, it is the most valuable among all edible oils (sunflower oil, peanut, corn, etc.) for the following reasons: - For the organoleptic particularly pleasant (essential requirements as food); - Due to its composition much closer to that of human fat that no other vegetable oils; - For the discrete content of vitamin A, absent in other vegetable oils; - For the low solid fat content and its easier emulsibility; - For its digestibility coefficient; - For the absorption coefficient much higher than other oils; - Why it facilitates the absorption of fat soluble vitamins in a greater than other oils into solid fats content higher; - Because the content of essential fatty acids of olive oil is used at 100%, compared with other oils poorly digestible and to lower the absorption coefficient. In addition, recent epidemiological studies, focusing on samples of populations of the Mediterranean basin, have shown that the presence of an optimal relationship between tocopherols and polyunsaturated fatty acids on the one hand, and other polyphenols, contribute: - For a lower incidence of atherosclerosis, as they reduce the presence of oxidized LDL, - To protect people from the onset of acute cardiovascular events such as myocardial infarction; - To limit the occurrence of some types of cancer, such as those of the colon and breast.
news from the compianies
Refrattari Pavesi Modena Via Radici in Piano 120/c 41010 - Corlo di Formigine (MO) info@pavesiforni.it - www.pavesiforni.it
Olive Growers Since 1895 REDORO farm estate is located in Grezzana, in the heart of Valpantena, in the northern area of Verona: the secret of success at Redoro oil mills is the presence of the mills, very close to the heart of its production: one in Grezzana, the main seat of the firm; the other in Mezzane and also near the Lake of Garda, where only Garda DOP Extravirgin Olive Oil is produced. The oil mills work at full capacity during the three months of harvest – October, November and December. Olives are collected from the neighbouring valleys, which cover a wide area that comprises seven valleys. About 1000 producers send their best olives to the mills. Average yearly output amounts to an estimated 20/25.000 quintals of olives, processed by Redoro’s mills.
Oil production undergoes strict controls by our specialised staff who carefully follow each step of the process, pressing only good olives whose quality can produce the excellences of Redoro Mills, namely: - Italian Redoro 100% - Redoro Biologic - Extravirgin Garda DOP - Extravirgin Veneto Valpolicella DOP. The oil produced at the mill is very aromatic, has an intense green colour with shades of gold, and a sweet full-bodied and fragrant olive flavour, that allows it to be tasted on bread or used to dress any dish. REDORO has even given its special attention to the bottle that contains the oil: this bottle bears the REDORO registered trademark, is attractive and has a practical and very original handle. Its family culture, which has been transmitted into its style of working and in its relations with each single worker, has given REDORO a special company philosophy that is fundamentally based on the quality of its production and the guarantee it gives to its consumers.
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SAN BRUNELLO DA MONTALCINO
edited by Virgilio Pronzati
Brunello di Montalcino
ambassador to the world of the great Italian winemaking
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Saints in heaven and on earth, by word and deed. The Biondi Santi family finds its home for some centuries in Montalcino. A family that over time has enhanced and widespread both the Brunello and its territory, making over the years worthy followers. Today the producers of Brunello di Montalcino account for just over a hundred. This wine pulls the economy. Probably, the only example in Italy, together with Treviso Prosecco, according to which agriculture, in this case the wine sector, gives an exceeding source of income to the business. Not only because by doing so it helps safeguarding the human and the environmental health. In the top chart of international auctions and wine lists of restaurants the famous Brunello di Montalcino as a great actor or a sport champion, boats a universal reputation. The last of the Tuscan previews but undoubtedly the most anticipated. The best of the world’s press never fails the appointment with Benvenuto Brunello. An event of international repute which puts Tuscany at the top of the wine industry of our planet. Although a bit ‘late, the event deserves to be remembered: on February 20 and 21, more than 200 journalists from around the world, were able to evaluate the year 2010 (Five Star) of Brunello di Montalcino, the Reserve 2009 (Four Stars) of the same wine, and Rosso di Montalcino 2013, the Moscadello and Sant’Antimo. An extremely challenging event, which has put them to the test, thinking that totally, the wines tasted were 328, of which 135 Brunello di Montalcino,
28 selection, 28 reserve, 119 Rosso di Montalcino, Sant’Antimo 12 and 9 of Moscadello Montalcino. The 2010 vintage is considered excellent for the favorable climate, with changing temperatures, hot sunny periods interchanged by fresh rains that gave good grapes from which they were produced in general, wines with good freshness, with fragrances intense and composite, of sustained structure and alcohol. To all this we must add the altitude and the age of the vineyards, winemaking techniques and refining adopted. Trying to make the picture of the situation, it can be argued that much of the Brunello 2010 will certainly have a good longevity, but already now they able to express themselves. Here are some personal judgments about one hundred sixty-three Brunello 2010 of which twenty-eight selections. Fifteen excellent, twentysix on the good, from the discreet to the seventy-five average-good, nineteen sufficient. From the very good to the twenty-eight discrete selection: six excellent, eight good, ten medium to discreet, four sufficient. Those of higher quality and harmony, had a garnet red color, an intense bouquet and persistent, fine, fairly large and composite, with clear hints of fruit and partly vegetable and balsamic, spicy, woody discreetly, dry taste, fresh and savory rightly astringent, warm, good structure and continuity, net aftertaste that recalls the olfactory notes.
The other medium to moderate, while similar but slightly discordant decided to freshness, sensitive astringency, softness and little intense but limited finesse. While sufficient, they had characteristics very attenuated and less fine than previous, in particular the nose (too woody and herbaceous notes) and thin and short to taste. 28 of Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2009 vintage that won 4 stars, four excellent, twelve on the voucher and as many discrete. The intense color, higher gradations and obtained with the achievement of a perfect maturity of the polyphenols. In brief, the reserves have kept the promises already declared last year. After the good year of 2013 by Four Stars, the discrete one by Three Stars of 2014. In fact, as now and a must every year since 1992, with the awarding of stars to the vintage, there was the laying on walls the thirteenth-century town hall, of an artistic tile (ceramic 30x30 cm, with the year and the stars assigned). This year, the tile was made and signed by Carlo Petrini, president of Slow Food. 2014 wine vintage will make its appearance on the market in the coming 2018.
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WINE Great expectation at the historic Teatro Astrusi, for the award of the Leccio d’Oro. A major international trophy, which is awarded annually to the industry, such as a restaurant, wine bar and tavern that stood out in the presentation, in service, in the diffusion and promotion of the wine, in particular Brunello di Montalcino, who have a wine list, with a wide and representative of Brunello di Montalcino and other wines of Montalcino, in relation both to the various vintages that the number of labels to manufacturers. The owner of the premises is also rated the level of knowledge and education about the reality of the area, as well as the characteristics of wine production. This year the three awards went, respectively, to the restaurant A Voce Columbus, New York, at Trattoria Divine Edinburgh and Cantine Isola in Milan. Saturday 21 as part of Benvenuto Brunello, there was the ceremony of the Prize Giulio Gambelli, recognition established dall’ASET (Press Association Enogastroagroalimentare Tuscany) now in its third edition. This year the award went deservedly to Francesco Versio, winemaker from 2011 for the company “Bruno Giacosa” of Neive (CN). The jury has selected from among the 16 finalists of the 46 winemakers previously reported by a panel composed of
imange here under and in the previews page
Montalcino
35 journalists in wines. We remind our readers that the area operate 250 producers of which 208 bottlers, all members of the Consortium. Size of companies: 22% is less than one hectare, 29% are between 1 and 3 hectares, 15% are between 3 and 5 ha, another 15% is between 5 and 15 hectares, 9% are between 15 and 100 hectares, 1% is above 100 hectares; 9% are purely commercial enterprises. Right now a hectare of vineyards of Brunello di Montalcino, is around 500,000 Euros. The turnover of the wine sector in Montalcino is an average of 150 million. The Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino (www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it) was born in 1967 in the aftermath of the recognition of the DOC, as a free association of producers, keen to protect their wine whose prestige was increasingly asserting itself. Represented in these years an instrument of scrupulous and responsible self-discipline, urging together old and new, large and small, so that the wise consolidated habits have become a common strategy for qualitative success. The Consortium protects and enhances all four wine denomination of Montalcino Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and Sant’Antimo.
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Canned Tomatoes
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NEWS FROM THE COMPANIES
Sbirro: the cheese with Menabrea beer flavor Sbirro is produced by Botalla Formaggi, a firm which was created in 1947 and since the 1980s has been owned and managed by the Bonino Family.
Botalla Formaggi – Botalla s.r.l Via Ramella Germanin, 5 - 13900 Biella – ITALY phone +39 015 26353 - fax +39 015 33425 www.botallaformaggi.com
It is the policy of our company to use only high-quality raw materials and craft each cheese form with care, guided by the hands of experienced artisans. Each form is given a special personalized attention assuring an ideal product. We have four production facilities, one of which is very new and innovative, a great asset to our company, uniting modernity with traditional crafting. Sbirro is the first and only cheese that uses Menabrea beer flavor in its production. It represents one of the most appreciated results in the area of innovative product research. The main goal of our study was to create a cheese with an original taste and scent where the beer enhances Sbirro without suffocating it, but actually exalting the quality and excellence of both products. Sbirro owes its success not only to the selected and local raw materials used during its complex process of production but also to the competence, commitment and passion of the people who work in these companies. It is the fruit of collaboration between two companies of Piemonte who share the same passion for excellence and enhancing the culinary flavour of the area.
Birra Menabrea s.p.a. Via Ramella Germanin, 4 - 13900 Biella - ITALY phone +39 015 2522320 - fax +39 015 2522350 www.birramenabrea.com
Birra Menabrea The quality of the ingredients used in its manufacture, painstaking and careful attention to detail and above all a deep understanding of the art of brewing make Menabrea unmistakable and a real symbol of excellence.
Established in Biella, Italy in 1846, Menabrea is one of the most famous and respected beer brands on the Italian market. The secret of Menabrea’s success is the ability to produce a premium, exclusive beer which manages to blend hand-made, craft beer quality respecting traditional methods with the latest production techniques. The international reputation of Menabrea is founded on numerous prestigious awards obtained over the years. The national and international awards collected by Menabrea spanning two centuries are recognition of a company that has consistently understood the value of quality and that has been constantly faithful to its own origins and values. Widely available in the on-premise sector, today Menabrea is distributed in 31 countries throughout the world. La 150° Bionda is a blond (lager) beer with an ABV of 4.8%, a light, golden colour and characterised by exceptional floral and fruity aromas thanks to the selected yeasts used in its production.
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la Sbirra For the dough
long leavening indirect dough mix using flour type 2 in addition to 1 lt of water 20% Menabrea 150° blond beer dough ball weight: 300 gr
For the topping The pizza dough, in the first phase must be pre baked, after this phase asap out of the oven, we spread our Sbirro cheese by Botalla, made with Menabrea beer. Once fully baked, add as part of the topping some Italian Radicchio cream, tomatoes filets, some small pieces of Botalla cheese , some slices of Venetian Sopressa (Italian ages salami).
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n° it11/0050
S 
cuola Italiana Pizzaioli was born in the late 80s. Since the beginning the school was focused on teaching one of the most beautiful artisanal jobs, combining a technical and scientific approach with the continue research of the most modern technologies and the passion for working with the dough. Our story starts in Caorle, in the municipality of Venice, where the national headquarter can still be found at present. Starting from there, we trained thousands of pizza makers in our Italian venues and in several foreign countries (France, Poland, Russia, Germany..). And this is not it!
Contacts Via Sansonessa, 49 30021 Caorle (Venice) tel. 0039 (0)421-83.148 fax. 0039 (0)421-81007 info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
www.pizzaschool.it www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
Do you want to be our partner? join the school! We are spreading the culture of the italian cuisine around the world and in order to do so we forge cooperations with local entrepreneurs who share our passion for pizza. In fact, pizza business in the world is constantly growing and is estimated to be about $ 132 billions at the present day. Pizza lovers are growing every day and professional pizza makers are strongly required by the job market. This is particularly true for the Italian classic pizza that is witnessing a golden age with fast growing rate thanks to the perceived quality of the artesanal recipe and of love of the ingredients. In order to answer to this extraordinary and fast-growing pizza consumption, many entrepreneurs asked us for advising and teaching. Starting from that, we built many long lasting business relationships all around the world. For these reasons also, 2015 was an extraordinary year for Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli that opened two new foreign offices: Russia and Poland. The school always turns as a great experience both for students and for partners.
WHERE TO LEARN THE REAL ITALIAN
TECHNICAL SPONSORS
Who are we looking for?
How does it work?
We are looking for entrepreneurs that work in the Food&Beverage sector who look at the school as a great business opportunities for creating spin-offs and expanding their activities. We can help them to open a Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli office in their country! The school creates networks and it is the best place for facing the market, testing products and gaining loyal customers. Creating synergies, the school helps the other business branches to improve effectiveness. In case the territory is wide, you can replicate the Italian school organization spreading your instructors network all over the country.
Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli starts its activities in Caorle (Venice) in the late ‘80 s. Since the beginning, our goal was to build a network of experts able to develop and spread our scientific approach of making pizza. So we did it, first in Italy (where during the last 30 yeas we have selected a group of top pizza chefs and opened several offices of the school), then abroad (Russia, Poland, Germany, France..) always using the same business model. The Franchising Agreement is the way that we use for transferring school know-how and the indispensable way for succesfully teaching our method. Each school is held by an instructor pizza chef reffered as “Master Istruttore”.
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Only few pizza makers trained during a specific course held at the Italian national head office of the school will be promoted as “Master Istruttore with PFC (certified training program)” guarantee of quality standards and professionalism of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli. With the Entrance Fee, partners of the school gains the exclusive right of using the trademark of “Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli” and to teach our techniques into the assigned territory. Once they have properly arranged the school and a obtained the qualification of Master Istruttore for the selected teacher, they can immediately start giving lessons and easily reimbourse the fee with the first course! Furthermore, we follow the developing process of the new foreign school providing it with a brandnew website, raw materials, school materials, student sets and, most of all, know-how gained in almost 30 years of experience on the field. No more investment is needed if you already have places for holding lessons. In 2016 the school will keep opening more new venues abroad! Coming soon China and Brazil…
VISIT www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
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OUR --> COURSES BASIC COURSES —
VISIT
n° it11/0050
www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
The passion for pizza The passion for making a good pizza and being able to transmit it to others is the ground for the school’s work, which pushes to experiment, to know, to learn and to spread out what we know to all those who wish to learn the profession of pizza maker. Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli was among the first school to develop three different types of course (basic specialization and advanced courses) along side with the practical part there is also theory, a serious and professional approach to a job that for its complexity needs study, application and passion.
Our lessons enable the future pizza-maker not only to make dough mixes on the bases of the recipes given during the courses, but also to gain a knowledge of the different results that can be obtained on the basis of wished variations (for example the choice of different flour) or less (unexpected things that can happen every day, for example the weather change); situations that can happen during professional life.
You can find us also in the most known food sector exhibitions both in Italy and abroad, because we strongly believe that meeting other cultures (especially whether in front of good food) makes us grow faster and makes us better. Passion, professional work, experience. That is what we trust.
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SPECIALIZATION COURSES — Specialization courses are devoted to professionals who wish to develop processing techniques for the production, preparation, filling and baking of particular types of pizza.
VISIT
www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
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ADVANCED COURSES
Classic Pizza
Neapolitan Pizza
The basic course is reserved for those who wish to learn the job of pizza maker, professionals and owners of restaurants, who want to learn and deepen the theoretical concepts and practical experience required to operate with success in the business of pizza. The course alternates hours devoted to theory, necessary for deeply understanding why you get certain results rather than others, with hours devoted to manual and gestural practice. The path will lead the student toward several steps in order to fully prepare them to the job. Among others, we focus the course on the choice of different types of grains, flour (and how to choose among them the best ingredients to catch your goals), the yeast, leavening techniques, ingredients, the topping amd much more. Obviously, we teach how to make, portionate and save the dough; how to spread dough balls, fill them and cook a real pizza! We dedicate several sessions teaching how to use professional tools as ovens, mixers, shock freezers. The intensive course takes place over five days, from Monday to Friday, for 40 hours in total. This includes 10 hours of theory and 30 hours of practice.
Neaples is the city where it all began. Scuola italiana Pizzaioli could not be lacking of a specific course about the most traditional for pizza preparation. The course of Neapolitan Pizza guides the student through the learning path for obtaining the traditional pizza with the lovely “cornicione” (the crust) typical of Naples. Actually, several features distinguish the classical round pizza from the neapolitan recipe, from the use of dedicated flours to the choice of P.D.O. (Protected Designation Origin) topping ingredients. Moreover, proper working and gestural methods (as “the slapping”) and strict baking rules make the Neapolitan pizza a specific and precise scienze. These reasons pushed us to spin-off a specific, one week course dedicated to those who want to spread the ultimate craftmade way to produce a traditional Neapolitan pizza. To do that, we entrust students only to instructors coming from Campania (Neaples region). Their exclusive experience and expedients are necessary for supplying the best course of the market on the topic. The original Neapolitan Pizza is a T.S.G. trademark registered by European Union in 2009. T.S.G. mark means that the pizza has been prepared in full compliance with the procedural guidelines for getting the qualification of “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed”.
PIZZA IN PALA —
The “Pizza in Pala” (pala is the long wood board needed for baking), also known as the “Pizza alla Romana”, is a typical product of roman bakeries, thin and crunchy. The mix is a very hydrated dough; apparently simple, but with lots of secrets to take in consideration that can dramatically influence the quality, aesthetics and taste personality of the final product.
PIZZA IN TEGLIA —
The”Pizza in Teglia” (pan pizza) is thick and soft. This pizza has a secret which is what allows to get a good growth in heigh maintaining, however, lightness. The perfect combination of these perspectives makes the difference between a dramatic success and an epic fail.
ACROBATICS —
The course aims to improve dexterity in handling, the speeding up of the work in a pizzeria using acrobatic techniques. The acrobatic show always fascinates customers and it is part of the choreography.
Advanced Courses are reserved to expert pizza makers, restaurateurs and food industry professionals who want to expand their knowledge in food, nutrition and management, gaining new skills and learning best technical practices. Advanced courses are designed to study every perspective of “pizza” as business concept. That is to say that Advanced Course program deals with both technical in-depht analysis (haute cuisine for topping preparation, nutritiononal science, food technology, bread-macking techniques) and management seminars (Food Cost Analysis, Profit and Loss Analysis, Food Social Media Marketing). For this reason, Advanced Courses are held by external teachers, top specialists in their own scientific or technical field.
SOURDOUGH —
Starting from what we call “la madre” we will explain the techniques of refreshing, conservation and how to use the sourdough in your pizza mix in the best way.
GLUTEN FREE —
In this course we teach how to organize the work plan and what procedures adopt to serve the celiac customer and safely obtain a dough with excellent performance and fragrant as the traditional pizza. We study different gluten free mixes and technical solutions for getting a uniform and easyto-work dough mix.
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The expert’s advice Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli is part of a group which has gained a 360° experience in the sector of pizza, from teaching to the manufacturing processing, from layout design of restaurant concepts to franchising chains operations
n° it11/0050
Project back up Some examples: - Design of a pizzeria shop; - Cost management; - Manufacturing Process Management for laboratories (both fresh and frozen product) and shops; - Shop staff training and work area organization.
Technical and product consultancy Some examples: - Customer preferences analysis; - Definition of a specific market-oriented dough mix; - Definition of a specific training path for staff; - Research of best equipment and raw materials of Italian producer.
management, both in Italy and abroad. Define the best dough mix for your sales goal could not be easier. We can provide you with a customized solution thanks to the huge amount of preparations and recipe developed in almost 30 years of experience. This enormous background allows us to face and solve a great range of problems with trust and catch best opportunities. Our panel of experts, all professionals in the sector, have the capability to face, together with the national headquarter staff, any request. Entrust your business plan to us means saving time and money avoiding common mistakes given by inexperience.
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Our teachers
cuola Italiana Pizzaioli is a proud holder of two certifications that make it the best school for pizza in Italy: the Certification of its Quality Management System and Certified Training Program The certification of the QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM: This certification confirms that all processes and procedures that guide the student from enrollment to the end of the course are organized and managed accordingly to international quality standards. This certification is an undeniable tool for a company that makes of quality, seriousness and rigorous methodology its beliefs.
info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
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The CERTIFIED TRAINING PROGRAM: This certification ensures that the advanced training track for Master Instructors of the school is held in fully compliance with specific requirements. Specific and defined requirements are: • selection of teachers • selection of participants • test methodology • minimum number of hours • multidisciplinary technical committee The goal is to boost technical and educational skills of participants in order to have the best instructors in the pizza sector: Master Instructors. Thanks to this process, scientifically rigorous and highly educational, we select only top qualified professionals for becoming Master Instructors making the largest efforts to keep them constantly up to date. During the training, future instructors are followed by the Multidisciplinary Technical Committee. This committee is always carefully informed about Food and Beverage sector scientific progress and new trends of related fields. The Certified Training Program is a guarantee of quality teaching, seriousness and professionalism.
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n° it11/0050
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Headquarters in Italy: CAORLE (Ve) Main Headquarters ——————————— ALESSANDRIA Momperone ——————————— BARI c/o Istituto Eccelsa ——————————— BENEVENTO ——————————— BRESCIA c/o Forni Ceky ——————————— COMO Turate ——————————— FLORENCE Reggello c/o Forni Valoriani ——————————— FOGGIA ——————————— GENOVA ——————————— L’AQUILA ——————————— ROME c/o Alice Academy c/o Ostia
——————————— MANTOVA c/o Sanfelici Conserve ——————————— MODENA c/o Forni Pavesi Modena ——————————— NAPOLI ——————————— PADOVA ——————————— PARMA ——————————— PISTOIA c/o Pala Pizza GiMetal ——————————— POTENZA ——————————— SALERNO ——————————— TERAMO ——————————— TRIESTE ——————————— VERONA c/o Zanolli Forni ——————————— VICENZA
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