Slices/08

Slices/ 08 ingredients,

specialities and cheeses

M.A.M.

From over half a century, MAM represents the tradition and the dedication to work of Modena and its citizens. Its origins and its atention to details mix perfectly with the constant search for developing new products and technologies in the sector. In fact, MAM became a leading

brand thanks to its combined and rotating ovens aestheticaly captivating and thanks to high quality materials and artisan mastery. MAM is a leading brand because its ovens enhance the true Neapolitan pizza taste al over the word.

On March 17, 1986, Italy found itself catapulted into a nightmare: the methanol wine scandal. In Lombardy, Piedmont and Liguria, 23 people died in a few months after drinking wine from a cellar in Narzole, in the "provincia granda", the Cuneo area. Many others instead went blind or manifested neurological damage. The owners of the company had in fact added very high doses of methanol to the wine to raise its alcohol content, ignoring the fact that methanol, although very similar in appearance, smell and taste to ethanol, is extremely toxic to the human body when taken in large quantities.

Following the methanol wine scandal, there was a profound awareness in public opinion, to the point of leading to the birth of the Carabinieri Anti-Sophistication Nucleus (NAS) and many consumer associations that began to take a more attentive interest in food. It is said that it was at that time that a small nucleus of winemakers from the same province where the scandal had originated but who had nothing to do with that food fraud went to Bra, in the province of Cuneo, to meet Carlo Petrini, who had been involved in gastronomic culture since 1977, writing for the main national newspapers and periodicals, asking to "do something". Carlin had founded the "Free and Worthy Association of Friends of Barolo" in the early 1980s and had no doubts about transforming it, on the night between 26 and 27 July 1986, into Arcigola. After this, thanks to the close relationship with Stefano Bonilli, the insert of "Il Manifesto" called "Gambero Rosso" was born in December of the same year.

Birth of a myth The Italian gastronomy

BY ANTONIO PUZZI

It must be said that until then, few people had been interested in food in Italy (and - with the exception of France - we could say "in the world"): the first attempts to identify the origin of the products can be attributed to an official of the Ministry of Agriculture, Rolando Ricci, who in the 1950s conceived the DOC brand for wines, which, however, was only officially recognized with the Law Decree of 12 July 1963. Again in the 1950s, precisely in 1953, the journalist Orio Vergiani founded the Italian Academy of Cuisine, leading it until his death in 1960. The Academy was mainly interested in the traditional recipes of Italy, realizing the first Guide to restaurants in 1961. Arcigola, Gambero Rosso and, from 10 December 1989, Slow Food, on the other hand, immediately acted as mediators between producers and consumers, offering the latter the possibility of becoming co-producers themselves, or people capable of directing the market. Those were the same years in which Pizza e Pasta Italiana, the Italian issue of this magazine took its first steps. Those were the years of the great renaissance of Italian food and wine, put in check by an unfortunate gesture and able, like the phoenix, to rise from the ashes.

p.6

Italy, land of saints, poets and culinary connoisseurs

1—

BY ANTONIO PUZZI

AND CHEESES

BY CATERINA VIANELLO — p.10

tomatoes, semi-dried and kept under oil: THE SUN ALL YEAR ROUND

Dried

— p.20 Northern Italian cheeses and pizza

Cheeses and pizza

BY MARISA CAMMARANO

BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF — p.38

Pecorino Romano and Pecorino Sardo: IDENTITY AND CHARACTERISTICS

— p.30

BY CATERINA VIANELLO

BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF — p.50

Testo, the great Italian genius

BY CATERINA VIANELLO — p.44

Pizza and cured meats: AN OVERVIEW

— p.54

Molise, naturally gluten-free

BY ALFONSO DEL FORNO

1. Italy, land of saints, poets and culinary connoisseurs

SINCE THE 1990S, ATTENTION TO FOOD IN ITALY (AND AROUND THE WORLD) HAS BEEN STEADILY GROWING, INCREASINGLY POPULATING THE PAGES OF NEWSPAPERS FIRST, THEN TELEVISION, AND SOCIAL NETWORKS IN MODERN TIMES.

We therefore owe a lot to people as Ricci, Vergiani, Bonilli and Petrini (which we talk about in the Editorial) for having had the great intuition and above all the great ability to spread the vision of a "good, clean and fair" Italy to the world. Today Italy boasts 5540 traditional agri-food products registered and spread across all the Regions (data as of 21 March 2022) and this in itself is already a great success. Each Region then has its own PDO, PGI and IGT and of course, these "official" denominations include the Slow Food Presidia, the Coldiretti seals and the many area brands:

regional, national parks, regional parks, LAGs, FLAGs and so on… We could say that “shipwreck is sweet for us in this sea”, paraphrasing Leopardi's Infinito but not all that glitters is gold.

BEHIND THE GREAT FORTUNE OF THE "BLAZON OF BRANDS" THERE IS IN FACT A DISTURBING COUNTERPART: THE ITALIAN SOUNDING.

In fact, it is estimated that there are around 600 products of "fake" Italian origin circulating in the world. The True Italian Taste website reports that preserves, sauces, oil and vinegar passed off as Italian are very common in Brazil, with a share of 14.5%, of the total, and in Poland (10.5%). In Australia, on the other hand, the most widespread Italian sounding belongs to dairy products (24.5%), meat (23%) and pasta (21.9%), the diffusion of which is also very significant in Brazil (27.1%) and in Poland (26.3%).

We have to change course, it can no longer be just a wish. And to do this the only way is that of knowledge. We are well aware that from the times of Dean Martin and his renowned "That's Amore" to the pronunciation of the name Italia, comic clouds appear in the minds of travellers and tourists in which pizza, wine, oil and other extraordinary amenities of our country appear. Films such as Letters to Juliet and Eat Pray Love have created the myth of "good and beautiful Italy" in more recent times.

WE MUST THEREFORE "TAKE ADVANTAGE" OF TOURISM SO THAT WHEN THEY RETURN HOME, PEOPLE ARE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE WHAT IS TRULY ITALIAN AND WHAT IS "FAKE".

IF WE LOOK AT THE REVIEWS LEFT BY BRITISH, GERMANS, AMERICANS AND AUSTRALIANS REGARDING VISITS TO ITALY, WE TALK ABOUT FOOD IN AT LEAST ONE OUT OF 5 CASES, EVALUATING THE FOOD AND WINE OFFER POSITIVELY (85.9 POINTS OUT OF 100) WITH THE HIGHEST SCORES FOR PIZZERIAS (87.2 POINTS OUT OF 100).

Among the most popular regions are Tuscany and Molise while the most popular cities are Naples, Rome, Florence, Milan and Venice. 51% of visitors (Italian or foreign) would like to "long-distance adopt" an olive grove, an orchard, an "Italian" vineyard and then receive the product at home when ready.

50% of tourists then willingly evaluate the possibility of participating in "digital" tastings (i.e. carried out remotely) after the on-site experience, so as to share what was done on holiday with relatives and friends and a similar percentage (48%) does not disdain to carry out these activities even before arriving at the company. Among those who then look for a spa in the countryside, 53% would see it better associated with a visit to an oil producer while 51% would better relax in the vineyards.

What made the demand for these places grow was probably the fact that wine and oil (two great attractions for tourism) increased their production even in the pandemic period: attention to eating well even at home has favoured the rediscovery of excellent local products with the consequent birth of the desire to get to know the praised beauty of their production places up close.

IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING THAT THE AMBASSADORS OF ITALIAN GASTRONOMIC EXCELLENCE ARE ABOVE ALL RESTAURANTS AND PIZZERIAS THAT BEAR THE ITALIAN FLAG AROUND THE WORLD.

Unfortunately, however, the twoyear period 2020/21 with intermittent lockdowns did not favour the sector, which was however able to adapt through home delivery, digital tastings, temporary restaurants in hotels, so much so that the number of reports has even increased in the sector guides. What can we “storytellers of good stories” do? Tell you restaurateurs the geography of typical products, i.e. the agri-food excellences present in our national territory.

WHAT CAN YOU READERS DO? YOUR JOB, BUT DONE RIGHT. SELECTING INGREDIENTS, BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS OF TRUST WITH SUPPLIERS AND CUSTOMERS, TRAINING STAFF AND KEEPING THEM CLOSE.

Only in this way can we all have “a kingdom where the sun never sets”, as Charles V was able to say about his empire. No, we are not talking (only) of economic wealth but of that priceless serenity which today is what we seek to live this new year to the best.

Dried tomatoes, semi-dried and kept under oil:

Symbol of Mediterranean cuisine, red gold of the South, dried tomatoes are an example of how a product born out of necessity ended up acquiring a fundamental role within a gastronomic system, becoming a real emblem of taste. Just like other Italian excellences – cured meats but also cheeses themselves – dried tomatoes were created with the aim of being able to have food available out of season, effectively lengthening its life and duration and thus being able to use it in winter.

the sun all year round

Despite being fundamental to their preparation, the type and organoleptic characteristics of the varieties represent the only variable: the constant elements in the production of dried tomatoes are in fact sun and salt, which acquire the role of real ingredients without which the recipe would be unfeasible. In fact, thanks to the ability of these two elements combined to eliminate most of the water contained in freshly picked tomatoes, thus making them more resistant to moulds and bacteria that cause deterioration, it is possible to extend the life of this red fruit, concentrating the flavour and enhancing the taste.

Slices/

BY

12

Although local traditions report small differences in preparation, the common procedure is that which involves drying in the sun after harvesting, carried out in the summer. The tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, with more flesh and pulp and with a thicker skin, or cherry tomatoes, are cut in half lengthwise, sprinkled with a little salt, arranged on a wire rack and left to dry for a few days outdoors in the sun. The duration of exposure varies according to the climate: on sunny days in Southern Italy it ranges from 4-5 days to 8 days. During the night, they are placed in a dry place, indoors, and covered with cloths, to prevent the nocturnal humidity from slowing down the process or damaging them.

Once it has been verified that they have lost a large part of the naturally contained water (about 80%, 90%) – that is, when they have become thinner and curled at the edges – we proceed to the actual conservation, which can be done in various ways. The simplest one involves placing the tomatoes in preferably hermetically sealed, glass jars.

A more tempting possibility is to preserve them in oil. In this case they must be rinsed and blanched in a solution of water and vinegar to sterilize them and left to dry for another two days in the sun and in the air. They are then arranged in layers in glass jars covered with extra virgin olive oil and with the addition of aromatic herbs (mint, oregano, thyme, basil), garlic, capers or spices (chili pepper). After being kept in a cool place for at least two weeks, they are ready for consumption. In addition to the preparation of dried tomatoes – with domestic preparation where the climate

permits and industrial processing, where drying is carried out in a controlled way, in an oven or dryer - there is also that of the semi-dried variety.

The difference regards not only the traditional or more modern production and drying technology, but also the level of drying. In fact, if in traditional dried tomatoes you see the almost total loss of water, in the case of semi-dried tomatoes they retain part of the water and are softer. The variable in this case is time, as they are left to dry for a shorter period.

Not only the longer duration is guaranteed: the same can be said about the maintenance of properties: drying does not cause the loss of vitamins and mineral salts. The custom of drying tomatoes crosses all the regions of the South: however, there are local differences that are worth discovering. So, here is a short gastronomic journey through the traditions of the South.

Slices/

IN CAMPANIA

Of course it’s the region which produces the most suitable tomatoes for drying - the San Marzano region - that celebrates them and gives them the recognition they deserve by registering dried tomatoes in the PAT list, that of Traditional Agri-Food Products recognised by the Ministry of Agricultural Policies. The preparation, which takes on truly ritual characteristics, is the same as that of other regions. Between August and September the firmest and ripest tomatoes are washed, dried and cut in half, covered with coarse salt and spread out in the sun. Turned from time to time and covered with a light cloth to protect them from insects and night humidity, once completely dried, they are placed in terracotta pots and stored in a cool place in the house, or in jars in oil. They are eaten on local frise or as a condiment for Salento pasta or traditional Salento pucce.

IN PUGLIA

Here tradition has it that the tomatoes, carefully washed under running water, are dried with a cloth and cut in half lengthwise. Lying on the 'zcafich (a wooden frame), are sprinkled with salt, coarse or fine, with a dosage strictly by eye. They are left to dry for 5 or 6 days, turned over after the third day and brought indoors at night. Once the water has been lost, they must be rinsed and blanched for a few moments in a solution composed of water and

vinegar, to sterilize them. Dried, they are kept in glass "boccacci", pouring extra virgin olive oil up to half of the container and inserting the tomatoes one at a time, trying to compact them as much as possible. According to taste, garlic, mint, wild oregano, capers, basil, hot pepper can be added. The jar is then filled to the brim and quickly boiled to obtain a vacuum seal. They are eaten accompanied by frisa soaked in a little water to soften it, seasoned with a drizzle of oil, a few capers, tuna and oregano.

IN SICILY

It is the capuliato or capuliata that steals the show. It is a typical condiment of Sicilian cuisine based on dried tomatoes, linked in particular to the territory of the municipality of Vittoria, traditionally linked to the greater production of tomatoes. The processing foresees that they are washed, cut, salted and dried in the sun for 8 days, turning them on the fifth. Subsequently they are ground, usually with a meat grinder and gener-

ally placed in oil, in a marinade that includes basil or oregano, to which garlic, chilli pepper or bay leaves can also be added. The capuliato is mainly used to season pasta - to which garlic, oil and also fried breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, grated cheese - bread or bruschetta are added, but also to flavour the stuffed focaccia typical of the Ragusa area, the scacce. The word "capuliato" means "shredded" and refers precisely to the type of processing that involves grinding. The same term is also used for "carne capuliata", i.e. minced meat. The word "capulare" already existed in vulgar Latin, with the meaning of "to cut into small pieces": from Latin, it then evolved into Aragonese, with the verb "capolar", which remained the same in Catalan and Castilian Spanish. The most delicious type of tomato for this preparation is the Ciliegino Pachino PGI and if you want to learn another term in dialect, note that dried tomatoes are called ciappa.

IN CALABRIA

Here the dried tomatoes are immersed in a mix of water and wine vinegar together with garlic and chilli pepper. Once dried, they are placed inside a glass container with the addition of a little oil. They are then topped with a layer of oregano and garlic and another layer of capers and basil. Finally, a little more oil is added, until all the free space is filled. They are ready after resting in the dark for 2 or 3 months.

IN SARDINIA

Dried tomatoes are called pibadra or pilarda or piarra, depending on the area. Once dry, they are placed in glass jars with alternating basil and/or bay leaves and a little coarse salt between one layer and another. Therefore, no oil, unlike the recipes of the South. In Bosa and Alghero, a special sauce called garlic (azzada in Sardinian) is prepared with dried tomatoes: the dried tomatoes are cut into small pieces and fried with garlic, oil and chopped parsley. Then peeled tomatoes, oil and vinegar are added. Agliata is used with fish (ray, dogfish, octopus) previously boiled or fried, but also with lamb or beef liver cut into strips and cooked in a pan. In the past, those who went to sea used it to preserve fish on board boats.

In addition to traditional recipes, the versatility of dried tomatoes allows them to cross the entire menu, from appetisers to side dishes. On a warm bread bruschetta, added to vegetable, legume or cereal salads, turned into sauces, cut into small pieces in bread dough, in savoury pies or on pizza, or as an accompaniment to white meats, fresh cheeses and oily fish, they are an ingredient capable of igniting practically any recipe with flavour and above all they are capable of not making us forget the taste of summer.

Cheeses and pizza

Cheeses are among the favorite foods of Italians who, on pizzas, in toasted sandwiches and in various snacks, consume an average of almost 20kg (44 lb) a year. Their level of love for this food places Italy fourth in the world for cheese consumption per capita. Among the many toppings that are used for pizza, cheese takes pride of place. The pizza lends itself to infinite customisations dictated by taste, seasonality and geographical location. Fior di latte and buffalo mozzarella are the most used but share this fundamental role with equally noble dairy products that enjoy different properties and that go well with each other and with other ingredients.

The range of cheeses to be used is really wide and offers a broad view of Italian tradition. These excellences of our cuisine and the combination with the right ingredients allow us to offer a great variety of flavours to all pizza lovers. Putting the right amount of mozzarella on the pizza is essential in order not to damage the dough and not to make the ingredients float. First of all, you have to choose the best mozzarella for pizza (we talked about it in the October issue in the article by Giosuè Rino Silvestro, ed) and then evaluate the size of the pizza. Indeed, how much mozzarella to put on the round pizza depends on the diameter.

According to a standard rule, the pizza should have a diameter of 22-35cm (8.7”13.8”), so the quantity of mozzarella can vary from 80g to 100g (2.82-3.53 oz).

Furthermore, it is possible to evaluate the quantity of mozzarella also based on the ingredients that will make up the pizza, choosing a quantity in between the values we have indicated.

Finally, close attention must also be paid to customer requests, who may want a greater dose of mozzarella on their pizza. So, let's see which are the most used cheeses and what their characteristics are.

FIOR DI LATTE MOZZARELLA

The queen of pizzas is of course the Margherita, of which a key ingredient is mozzarella fior di latte. This dairy product is simply the most famous fresh curd cheese in the world, produced with cow's milk and an integral part of the Mediterranean diet. Mozzarella is rich in mineral salts such as calcium and vitamins (B12, K), but also in saturated fats. For those attentive to their diet, in recent years you can also find low fat versions of fior di latte mozzarella made with skimmed milk as well as lactose-free. Mozzarella for pizza is slightly different from that for the table: it contains less water but maintains the same organoleptic characteristics.

BUFFALO MOZZARELLA

This type of mozzarella, typical of Campania, is made with milk coming only from selected buffaloes and sent to the dairy within 12 hours of milking. Here it is filtered and subjected to various treatments, strictly following the traditional process: spinning, shaping and salting. The final product is the buffalo mozzarella for pizza that we all love. This tasty dairy product has a high concentration of animal fats and proteins. However, it is light and easy to digest, with very low percentages of lactose and cholesterol. Compared to fior di latte mozzarella, buffalo mozzarella has a slight crust. Once cut, however, it releases more liquid.

PROVOLA

It is a cheese of very ancient origins. The first appearance seems to have been around 1700, when it appeared in Neapolitan nativity scenes for the first time. From a nutritional point of view, provola is rich in vitamin C, sodium, calcium, phosphorus and can be eaten both melted on pizza and as a table cheese. Then, there is the smoked version which is obtained by exposing the fresh cheese to wheat straw smoke. The procedure darkens the crust of the cheese which takes on a dark yellow colour and the typical smoky aroma. Furthermore, in this way, the Provola can be conserved longer.

GRANA PADANO

It is one of the most famous cheeses in the world. Grana Padano is a hard cheese that is produced in the Po Valley. The origin of Grana Padano dates back to the Middle Ages and was invented by the Cistercian monks of the Chiaravalle Abbey, located a few kilometers from Milan, in around 1135. It is a PDO product (protected designation of origin) which must be worked exclusively in a well-defined area of northern Italy, according to the specification written up in 1954. The specification, in addition to indicating the various stages of processing and the seasoning period of the cheese (from 9 to 24 months), also establishes that the breeding of the cows, their milking and the subsequent transformation of the milk must take place exclusively in the indicated area.

STRACCHINO

Stracchino is produced with whole cow's milk and aged for a maximum of 30 days. This cheese from Lombardy is a soft but compact paste and undergoes the same manufacturing process as crescenza and taleggio. It is rich in proteins and saturated fats therefore it must be consumed in moderation. It has a high concentration of vitamins, such as B12, and mineral salts such as calcium and phosphorus.

TALEGGIO

Taleggio is one of the oldest Italian cheeses, with traces of its trade being found in some accounting documents from 1200 AD. In the beginning, production was concentrated in the provinces of Lombardy and Piedmont. At the end of the 1980s, however, it obtained the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) mark. Taleggio is produced with whole cow's milk (like stracchino), subjected to a medium-term seasoning and then sponging with water and salt. It is a high calorie cheese with a high concentration of saturated fats. Precisely for this reason it is not recommended for those suffering from high cholesterol or the overweight. A fundamental characteristic of any self-respecting cheese is its high calorie content, due to the considerable presence of animal fats.

For this reason, it is often advisable to limit its consumption, possibly preferring lighter cheeses. In reality, all cheeses contain a certain amount of fat since the seasoning, depleting them of water, concentrates the nutrients, including cholesterol. For this reason, fresh cheeses are poorer in nutrients than aged ones. Cheeses with a lipid content higher than 40% are called fat, those with a lipid percentage between 20 and 40% semi-fat and those in which fat represents less than 20% of the total calories are low-fat. The only "light" cheeses are cottage cheese and ricotta, which however are not real cheeses, since they are produced from buttermilk or whey. Cheese is also a high-sodium food as it is used in the production process to control bacterial growth during aging. An excess of this mineral in predisposed subjects can aggravate

hypertension or contribute to causing it. Despite the richness in fat, sodium and calories, cheese is a precious food as it is rich in important nutrients such as calcium, phosphorus, vitamin A and B12. As always, the trick is to have a balanced relationship with food: cheeses are acceptable foods from a health point of view, just don't exaggerate with their consumption. For example, it is a good rule not to exceed 50 grams of seasoned cheese per portion or to associate it with other foods, using it more to season than as a main course.

www.campionatomondialedellapizza.it info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it REGISTRATION IS OPEN

Campionato Mondiale della Pizza

Northern Italian cheeses and pizza

NORTH

The marriage between cheese and pizza is well tested and solid one: dairy products are in fact a fundamental ingredient, capable of supporting any combination, whether with vegetables, with cold cuts, or with dried fruit. Depending on the consistency of the pasta (whether they are more seasoned or creamy) and the flavour (from the sweet notes of milk and butter, to the more savoury and almost spicy ones), they add character to the topping or sauce and manage to create memorable results. We went to explore the excellent cheeses of the regions of Northern Italy and we decided to go a little off the well-known and

comfortable tracks of Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano which, flaked or grated, cooked or out of the oven, are by now a presence that has become a great classic. So here is an overview of a series of cheeses - some almost obvious, others less so - to pay attention to for new combinations and toppings.

GORGONZOLA

32

Unmistakable for its bluish-green and/ or grey-blue veins, due to the marbling process that uses the fungal strain Penicillium Roqueforti, Gorgonzola takes its name from the homonymous city in the province of Milan. Its history dates back to the X-XII century. A PDO branded product, it is produced in Lombardy (provinces of Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona, Lecco, Lodi, Milan, Pavia, Varese, Monza) and Piedmont (Biella, Cuneo, Vercelli, Novara, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola and in 31 municipalities belonging to the province of Alessandria). Distinct in the Dolce and Piccante types, it is obtained by pasteurising cow's milk, inoculated with milk enzymes and with a suspension of Penicillium spores and selected yeasts, then adding calf rennet. After the curd is broken, which is left to drain of the whey, the mass is put into perforated molds for 24 hours, called fasciaruoli, and subjected to dry salting for a few days at a temperature of 18-24°C (65-75°F). It is precisely in the aging phase that the varieties and strains of Penicillium responsible for the classic cheese paste develop.

The shape is cylindrical with flat faces, gray and/or pink crust; the paste is white and straw-coloured, with streaks due precisely to the development of molds with characteristic veins. On the palate, the flavour varies from sweet or slightly spicy to very spicy. If there are no doubts that Gorgonzola is an excellent table cheese, to be consumed alone, it is also true that there are many gastronomic preparations with it as the protagonist and enhance it, even when cooked. In the sweet version, it is one of the 4 dairy products used for the 4-cheese pizza and is probably the one that, among the 4, manages to leave the palate sweetened but without banality, given the herbal notes. Excellent on pizza also combined with walnuts, as well as with typically winter vegetables, such as radicchio. In a spicy version, it is worth trying it in combination with the docile character of ricotta, which can also be accompanied by herbs or spinach, to recall the green of the streaks.

STRACCHINO

Produced with whole cow's milk and aged for a maximum of 30 days, it has Lombard origins and owes its name to the dialectal term "stracch" (tired), referring to the cheese that was once produced, during stops along the transhumance routes, with the little whole raw milk just milked from the tired cows. It has a soft but compact paste, a parallelepiped shape and variable size. Precisely in relation to its origins – it had to be prepared quickly, without heating the milk and without long coagulation and purging times – the milk is left to coagulate with calf rennet for about half an hour. After the curd is broken up in two successive phases, the paste is poured into molds and stewing begins for about a day. When the surface is covered with white mold - an indication that it has reached the right consistencythe salting phase begins and then the seasoning phase. After about two weeks, it is put on the market. It has a white, creamy paste, with a sweet and buttery, some-

times slightly acidic taste: it can obviously be enjoyed a few days after preparation. The best, from a gustatory and "historical" point of view, is the "old-fashioned" one from the Orobic Valleys, protected by a Slow Food Presidium, which brings together a group of small farmers and cheesemakers determined to preserve the traditional recipe.

The taste is soft and creamy in the under-crust, more pungent towards the heart, where the paste is more compact and crumbly; the scent recalls that of pastures and notes of hay.

TALEGGIO CHEESE

It is one of the oldest Italian cheeses: its origins probably date back to before the 10th century. Originally from Val Taleggio, from which it takes its name, this cheese was already traded in the 13th century, as evidenced by various documents of the time. Its production, initially arising from the need to conserve milk that exceeded the need for self-consumption, took place with the milk of cows returning from summer pastures, called for this reason "stracche" (see above, regarding stracchino: the family is, in fact, the same), for the long distance travelled. Until the beginning of the 20th century it was even called "square stracchino di Milano", then changed to Taleggio to protect its pro-

duction process and name. Compared to the beginning, today the production area has gradually expanded and, in addition to the Lombard provinces of Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona, Lecco, Lodi, Milan and Pavia, Taleggio is also produced in Piedmont, in the province of Novara and in Veneto, in the province of Treviso. Among the very few Italian cheeses with a washed rind, it is produced with raw or pasteurized cow's milk. The rennet used is that of veal, which is added to heated milk. The curd is broken up in two steps: a coarser one, followed by a second one to obtain a mass whose grains are the size of a hazelnut. It is then placed in square molds of about 18-20 cm (7” – 8”) each side, placed on slightly inclined sloping tables, so as to facilitate the drainage of the whey. Then follows the stewing phase, in which the wheels are turned over with precise cadence and during which the characteristic brand is affixed: the three "T"s and a number that allows to trace the production dairy. Salting follows, dry or in brine, which allows the formation of the crust and gives flavour, and then the seasoning (35-40 days), during which molds and yeasts form which give the external surface the characteristic yellowish-pink colour, with gray and sage green streaks. The color of the paste ranges from white to straw yellow. Sweet on the palate, aromatic and persistent, it becomes more savoury and almost spicy in the more seasoned wheels.

CASTELMAGNO

Known since the 13th century, it owes its name to the small municipality in the Cuneo area located between the Maritime Alps and the Cottian Alps and which is one of the only three Piedmontese municipalities (besides Pradleves and Monterosso Grana) where it is produced. It is a pressed raw and blueveined cheese, obtained from raw cow's milk (product of two consecutive milkings, in the evening and in the morning) to which sheep's and/or goat's milk can be added. The term "erborinatura" refers to the Lombard dialect "erborin", a word used to indicate parsley: the veins of the more seasoned forms of Castelmagno, in fact, due to the development of special molds belonging to the genus pennicillium, are slightly greenish in colour. The processing requires the curd to be broken twice after two days: minced, salted with coarse salt, placed in molds and pressed. The forms are aged for at least two months. Wooden planks house the aligned shapes, at a temperature between 5° and 15°C (40 – 60 °F) and humidity between 70% and 98%: in this way, the natural molds mottle the Castelmagno left to age for a long time. The result is a cylinder with a diameter ranging from 15 to 25 cm (6”-10”): under a thin crust between the brownish yellow of the younger wheels and the ocher of the more mature ones, there is a crumbly paste that becomes more compact as you keep ripening – without holes, ivory white, bright yellow to deep ocher with blue streaks. The flavour is fine and refined: herbaceous and delicate in the younger forms, it becomes almost spicy and markedly sapid in the older ones.

ASIAGO

Its history dates back to the early Middle Ages, when sheep's milk (precisely of “pegorin”, precious for their wool) cheese was produced in the area enclosed by the Astico and Brenta rivers. The turning point came around 1500, when sheep breeding was progressively replaced by cattle, following the improvement of the areas destined for grazing and the modernisation of the breeding techniques themselves. The merit of such a revolution seems to be attributed to the Cimbri, an ancient population of Germanic origin who migrated to the Altopiano dei Sette Comuni, who introduced cows into the Asiago area. Their influence, combined with the expertise of the monks in dairy farming, soon transformed the plateau into an area of excellence in the production of the cheese of the same name, which is now produced in dairies and mountain huts. The production area covers a part of the province of Padua and Treviso and borders on the whole of Trento.

A semi-cooked cheese, it is produced in two distinct types: the fresh one

(or pressed, because the wheels are pressed with manual or hydraulic presses) and the more seasoned (or d’allevo) one. The fresh version has the softness of sponge cake and a nice elasticity, the scent is that of yogurt and butter and the flavour is delicate and sweet. Addition of rennet to the milk, semi-cooking, breaking of the curd, cutting of the paste, portioning, pressing, placing in molds and branding on the edge of the wheel represent the main phases of the processing, which ends with salting and aging, which ranges from 20 to 40 days. The character of Asiago d'Allevo is more decisive: rennet is added to the milk; once coagulated, the curd is cut with a stick, until granules the size of a hazelnut are obtained. This is followed by cooking, molding, placing in aging molds, branding, cooling and salting. The aging is the phase that forms its character: the varieties are mezzano, aged for 4 to 6 months and still sweet in taste; old, aged for 10-15 months, more decisive and slightly spicy, extra-aged, aged over 15 months, decidedly more intense and spicy.

FONTINA

The origins of the Aosta Valley cheese par excellence are complicated to trace. The first certain date to which the name can be traced back is 1717, the first classification is from 1887 with "Le Fontine di Val d'Aosta" while the second is in the 1930s-1940s by the Ministry of Agriculture. Even the etymology is confused: some associate it with the Fontin pasture, others associate it with the village of Fontinaz or with the surname of a family. Finally, others, to further complicate things, make it derive from the ancient French term "fontis" or "fondis", to indicate the particular ability of the pasta to melt with heat. Produced under the PDO label since 1995, Fontina is one of the best raw milk cheeses in Italy. It is produced from the milk of the Pezzata Rossa and Pezzata Nera Valdostana cows (the mountain pastures are located at a maximum altitude of 2500m / 11,500 ft), which must be processed within two hours of milking. Unskimmed and raw, the milk is coagulated in copper or steel boilers and with the addition of calf rennet. The breaking of the curd must allow to obtain granules the size of a grain of corn, which are then purged.

The mass is extracted and bundled into cloths, which are piled up and placed under the press. Pressing and turning precede the phase of immersion in brine, in tanks containing a solution of water and salt. The aging phase is the most important, during which the cheese acquires the typical melting consistency, the unmistakable aroma and the sweet taste: it lasts an average of 4-5 months. In the first three, the wheels are turned daily, alternating a day of salting and a day of scrubbing the surface with brushes moistened with salt water. At the end of the aging period - generally at least 90 days, in damp rooms or caves - the rind will have acquired the recognizable brown color and the paste will have its typical character: soft, firm and elastic, with fine and irregular holes, more intense straw yellow in cheeses produced in summer. On the palate, the unmistakable trait is sweetness.

ROBIOLA

We close our journey through the cheeses of the North with Robiola, which has very ancient origins, dating back even to the Celtic-Ligurian period. It owes its name to the Latin "rubere", which means to redden: this cheese, called "Rubeola", in fact became more and more reddish as the aging proceeded. It is prepared with sheep’s, cow’s or goat’s milk, depending on the production areas, which are concentrated in northern Italy. However, it is Piedmont that dominates, with the territories of Alba, Monferrato, Introbio, Valsassina and Roccaverano, where Robiola PDO is produced. A typical trait of robiola is the consistency of the paste: soft, almost buttery inside. The aging varies from a minimum of a few days up to a couple of weeks and, depend-

ing on the degree of maturation, the taste of the cheese also changes, which is delicate in the fresh product, with acidic notes, to then become more decisive and balanced. Robiola di Roccaverano is produced exclusively with sheep, goat and cow milk. After natural acidification has taken place, rennet of animal origin is added to the milk and then left to rest for coagulation. The curd is then transferred into perforated molds with bottoms and turned periodically. Salting is carried out dry on both sides of the product during turning or at the end of the forming process. Natural aging takes place by keeping the fresh product in special rooms for at least three days: Robiola di Roccaverano is considered mature from the tenth day after placing it in the molds.

Pecorino Romano and Pecorino Sardo:

lences in the world, symbols of the Italian gastronomic tradition: we are talking about Pecorino Romano and Pecorino Sardo, PDO branded products, symbols of their respective regions of origin. Knowing them better means knowing a tradition rooted in the territory and, above all, avoiding confusing them, given that there is a "geographical" coincidence. Here they are then, with their identities and char-

identity and characteristics

PECORINO ROMANO

Cited by illustrious Roman authors such as Varro, Pliny the Elder, Hippocrates and Columella, already in use in the palaces and among the legionaries of Rome (for whom the daily ration was also established as a supplement to bread and spelled soup: 27g / 1 oz, Pecorino Romano immediately deserves a clarification about its origin. In fact, the name should not mislead: the production region is not only Lazio but also Tuscany and Sardinia. To explain why, we need to go back to 1884, the year in which the mayor of Rome introduced a ban on cheese salting within the city, an imposition which forced many Roman cheesemakers to move production to Sardinia, where the tradition of sheep herding was strong. It is significant that the specification identifies Sardinia, Lazio and the

province of Grosseto as production areas, and the Consortium (which has been protecting the PDO brand since 1996) has its headquarters in Macomer (Nuoro, Sardinia) and 95% of production comes from Sardinia.

The fundamental ingredients for production, even before milk, are sheep and cheesemakers, who deserve the credit for best representing and interpreting a territory and its environmental and cultural characteristics. The historical combination of choice is with broad beans: for an unprecedented version of cacio e pepe, our advice is to accompany the pasta with a cream of fresh broad beans, adjusting it with a few leaves of mint.

The Roman-style gnocchi with pecorino romano grated generously are also delicious, as are the simple pulse soups which, sprinkled with Pecorino Romano, have an unfor gettable flavour. Finally, try it on top of carpaccio for a burst of flavour.

SARDINIAN PECORINO

All Sardinian and proudly so is Pecorino Sardo PDO, whose history dates back to the times of the Nuragic population. However, it was in the Roman era that Sardinia became a privileged center for the production of wheat and progressively the woods and uncultivated land gave way to agriculture and grazing, heralding the turning point towards dairy production. The climatic conditions of the island, combined with an environment rich in natural meadows and bushy vegetation, have represented an ideal habitat for sheep and for their subsequent breeding. If you want to look for historical sources on the origins of Pecorino Sardo, you have to go back to the end of the 18th century and observe a series of cheeses - the Bianchi, the Rossi Fini, the Affumicati, the Fresa and the Spiatatu - which represented the roots of the future PDO. In particular, Rosso Fino and Affumicato are the "fathers" of the modern Pecorino Sardo: obtained from raw milk or from milk heated with red-

hot stones, they have gradually changed, in relation to the advent of more modern processing techniques, culminating in the innovations introduced since in the 60s. These, combined with the teachings of tradition, have led to the modern branded cheese. It is good to specify that when it comes to Pecorino Sardo, it is necessary to distinguish the Mature Pecorino Sardo from the Sweet Sardinian one. The former has a cylindrical shape, a smooth, consistent crust, brown in the more seasoned forms. The texture is white, tending towards straw yellow as it matures, compact or with sparse holes. The aging cannot be less than 2 months, for a final taste that is strong and pleasantly spicy. The weight varies from 3 to 4 kg (6lb 10oz – 8 lb 13oz). Pecorino Sardo Dolce has a cylindrical shape, a smooth, thin crust and a white or pale straw colour. The paste is white, soft, compact or with sparse holes, with a sweet and aromatic flavour. Aging varies from 20 to 60 days and each form weighs about 2 kg (4lb 7oz). The process requires that the

whole sheep's milk is coagulated with calf rennet at 35-38°C (95°-100°F) for 35-40 minutes. Once the curd has been obtained, it is broken up to obtain granules the size of a hazelnut for the Sardinian Sweet, and the size of a grain of corn for the Mature. The paste is then semi-cooked, stewed and/or pressed, dry-salted or in brine and then seasoned, with the different times we have mentioned.

The Dolce type is eaten as a table cheese, served in flakes with fresh vegetables, or as a second course with grapes and pears. The mature one is ideal at the end of a meal, accompanied with bread with oil and pine nuts, or grated.

At the table, among the recipes that enhance it are above all the first courses. So here are the malloreddus alla Campidanese or the culurgionis de patata. But it is also worth trying a delicious appetiser such as roasted pecorino cheese, which has its roots in the pastoral tradition and was once cooked directly over a wood fire. Today, of course, it can be prepared at home, cooking the cheese on a griddle or in the oven and accompanying it with carasau bread and perhaps some honey. A more refined and modern appetiser is the mature pecorino flan, perhaps served on top of a courgette soup, in order to find a perfect balance between the savoury character of the cheese and the more delicate one of the courgettes. The single dishes not to be missed are the fregola and the frattau bread. If, on the other hand, you want to give a marked identity to a dish with French reminiscences, you can try onion soup with a sprinkling of Sardinian pecorino cheese, finishing everything in the oven, so that the surface acquires a perfect browning.

The magazine’s official App offers a progressive way of interacting with the contents by accessing multimedia content like videos, galleries, technical information and much more, where possible, through a simple rotation.

Your favourite magazine for 34 years. Always at your fingertips!

Pizza and cured meats: an overview

The variety of cured meats that make up our "gastronomic atlas" probably has no equal in the world. If the use of cold cuts on pizza is now commonplace, there are however some precautions to bear in mind. The first is to know well the gustatory, organoleptic and geographical characteristics of each product, to enhance it to the fullest; the second is to pay attention to cooking, which in most cases risks causing the cured meats to lose all their aromatic richness. The third is not to fear simplicity and to use one cured meat at a time, thus managing to make the most of each selected product. Having said that, here is a roundup of cured meats ready to be sliced.

RAW HAM

Having available a real heritage of PDO or PGI branded products, capable of transforming each topping into a real dish, the first trick is to not use raw ham during cooking but to add it outside the oven. In fact, high temperatures risk increasing the flavour of the cured meat and drying it excessively, also causing it to lose its organoleptic qualities and tasty characteristics. Therefore, it is better to avoid wasting an excellent product and, rather, choose carefully which one to use, perhaps enhancing the specificities of the flavours (sweetness, aromatic notes, sapidity) and the territory. There is a wide range of samples to choose from: Parma ham (PDO, Emilia-Romagna), San Daniele (PDO, Friuli Venezia Giulia), Amatriciano (PGI, Lazio), Carpegna (PDO, Marche), Modena (PDO, Emilia -Romagna), from Norcia (PGI, Umbria), from Sauris (PGI, Friuli Venezia Giulia), Tuscan (PDO, Tuscany); Veneto Berico-Euganeo (PDO, Veneto), Crudo di Cuneo (PDO, Piedmont).

BY

SPECK

Intense, savoury taste, with hints of smoke, spices and aromatic herbs. No other introductions would be needed for speck. South Tyrol has made it one of its flagship products and, also in this case, given an already marked flavour, it is good to add it to the pizza after cooking to avoid drying it out. It is once again the flavour that guides the combinations, for which we must prefer delicate cheeses, so as not to go into contrast but rather create a nice balance. The addition of other ingredients that recall the mountain context, such as mushrooms, is also good.

COOKED HAM

The delicacy, in both taste and colour, is the essence of cooked ham, to which the thin border of fat gives a fuller flavour. However, under the general wording, which is rather vague, there are enormous differences, above all related to the use of preservatives and dyes or related to the breeding conditions of the pigs. Italian law identifies three distinct qualitative categories for cooked hams, which differ in the ratio between the percentage of water and lean meat: "cooked ham", obtained from the thigh of the pig, the humidity of which must be lower than or equal to 82%; the "selected cooked ham", for which at least 3 of the 4 main muscles of the whole thigh must be identifiable and with a humidity lower than or equal to 79.5%; finally, the "high quality cooked ham", with a humidity level lower than or equal to 76.5%.

PANCETTA BACON

Stretched out or rolled up, tastier or with sweeter tones thanks to the enveloping embrace of the fat, the rule of adding the slices out of the oven or right in the final moments of cooking also applies to pancetta. Also in this case the heat plays a fundamental role, releasing and enhancing the aromas. To be noted, in particular, the Pancetta di Calabria (PDO), with a good flavour and which can be made even more captivating by the addition of chilli pepper or the Pancetta Piacentina, more delicate and sweet.

SALAMI

From north to south, you are spoiled for choice. If Lombardy boasts Brianza (PDO), Cremona (PGI, Lombardy) and Salame di Varzi (PDO), Emilia Romagna responds with Felino (PGI) and Piacentino (PDO), Sicily with that of S. Angelo (PGI), while practically all of Italy is united in the production of Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora (PDO). Here the advice is to carefully study their characteristics and distinctive traits in taste to make the most of them and, consequently, it is better to add them at the end of cooking, to prevent the oven from destroying their flavour.

MORTADELLA

If mortadella is so sweet and delicate, the credit goes entirely to the fat in the throat, perhaps the most precious of adipose tissue. Pink colour, slightly spicy and intense aroma, velvety surface, delicate flavour: mortadella is one of the cured meats that best lends itself to being used on pizza, provided you do not dampen its elegant and delicious character at the same time. Also in this case, therefore, it is better to proceed with combinations that are not in contrast but in correspondence and it is better to add the slices once the pizza has been taken out of the oven. Burrata, stracciatella, pistachios: these are among the best combinations, not only because of the gentle tones, but also, in the case of pistachios, because of the crunchiness that plays with the roundness of the meat and cheeses.

use it preferably on white pizzas, perhaps reproducing the classic combination of the dish with rocket and Parmesan on white pizzas or in combination with taleggio.

'NDUJA

Dedicated to lovers of spicy flavours: born to recover processing waste, it has now become an identifying product of Calabria. It can be cooked, and in this case its creamy consistency, in paste, will become even softer, or added after cooking, in small doses. Unmissable combinations with olives and ricotta, also to give vivacity of colours to the dough base.

CAPOCOLLO

It is obtained from the muscle band of the pig between the head and the vertebrae. Added to the pizza just taken out of the oven, it releases the aroma and seasoning aromas. It is worth trying the one from Calabria, with the PDO brand: on the outside it has a more or less intense pink or red colour (due to the presence of black pepper or chilli pepper) while when cut it has a bright pink colour with streaks of fat. Delicate on the palate, it has a perfume of the right intensity. The combination with fresh cheeses (stracciatella) and vegetables (artichokes), manages to enhance it to the fullest.

CIAUSCOLO

Excellence from the Marche region, its strong point is the spreadability of the paste. It is obtained from the double grinding of fine cuts of pork such as bacon, shoulder and ham and loin trimmings. The "slices" are homogeneous, of a uniform pinkish-red colour. The scent is delicate, typical and spicy with a savoury and flavourful taste. Combined with delicate cheeses and vegetables, and by adding it when it comes out of the oven, it manages to give its best.

PORCHETTA

Porchetta could not be missing from this list. The emblem of Roman cuisine is, of course, from Ariccia. It is characterised by a crunchy crust (even after several days of cooking), under which white-pink coloured meat is interspersed with the colour of spices. Unmistakable to the taste due to the presence of rosemary, garlic and black pepper, it has been skilfully enhanced by the "Roman school". Sliced, combined with vegetables, potatoes and/or cheeses, it is absolutely delicious.

TESTO, the great Italian genius

In central Italy and, in this case, in Lazio, Umbria and Tuscany (but, to tell the truth, as far as Romagna and Liguria), we still see the use of a tool of ancient origins which takes the name of text, unknown in truth in the rest of the Italian regions but spread under different names in other areas of the Mediterranean.

According to the most reliable historical research, the recipe dates back to Ancient Rome: Cato the Elder, in fact, in De Agri Cultura, tells the recipe for the placenta (an ancient form of cake) using these words:

"YOU WILL CLEAN THE HEARTH WELL, YOU WILL HEAT IT TO THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE, THEN YOU WILL PLACE THE PLACENTA IN IT. YOU WILL COVER WITH A HOT TILE, YOU WILL COVER THE TILE WITH EMBERS. YOU WILL SEE TO COOK IT WELL AND SLOWLY, YOU WILL LIFT THE TILE TO SEE THE COOKING POINT, TWO OR THREE TIMES".

However, others date the origin of this bread back by a few centuries, associating it with the mefa of the ancient Umbrians (comparable to the Latin mensa) which underwent the same type of cooking. Originally, however, the Latin word testum indicated a vase or an earthenware pot and, by extension, also its lid, which was filled with embers in order to cook also from above. The oldest texts were made of clay but currently those made of cast iron are more common. The main use of this tool was to cook focaccia. Among the various text models widespread in central Italy, the one that is particularly interesting for us for the purposes of this narration is the Umbrian text, used for cooking the famous torte al testo, a focaccia kneaded and cooked on this cast iron plate and subsequently topped with the best of local butchery. This recipe was born

as an unleavened alternative to traditional bread and has two variants: the original one, with wheat flour and the one with corn flour, born after the importation of the latter from the Americas.

To make a good torte al testo, you need four readily available ingredients:

FLOUR, WATER BAKING SODA AND

SALT.

In some cases, bicarbonate can be replaced by the use of sparkling water while in some local variants, the torta al testo can also be flavoured with milk, eggs, pecorino of Norcia, butter and pepper.

1.

The preparation begins by pouring the flour on a pastry board, adding a pinch of salt, a pinch of bicarbonate and water, in sufficient quantities to obtain a firm but soft dough.

2.

A disc of the same diameter as the text is then obtained which is then pierced with the prongs of a fork. At this point, the text is placed on the flame and, when the plate is hot, a handful of flour is thrown on the surface. When this flour becomes dark, but without burning, it means that the text is ready.

3.It is only at this moment that the cake should be placed on the text, cooking it on both sides until it becomes crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside.

4.

Tradition has it that the torta al testo was topped almost exclusively with grilled sausage and field vegetables cooked and sautéed in a pan, cold cuts of all kinds but mainly ham and local cheeses.

A very easy recipe? Not really, as Maria will be able to tell you, who – according to common sentiment – makes the “best cake ever”. We are in Umbria, along the coasts of Lake Trasimeno, and her restaurant, Faliero, is a must for anyone passing along the Regional Road 599. Here, in 1969, it all started with a small kiosk run by Maria who, together with her grandmother Pompilia, kneaded the cake by hand (called simply that in these parts), cooking it on an always-lit hearth. More recently, it was the Cukuc – Food and Mood company that made the torta al testo

known during events around the Italian peninsular, which eliminates the bicarbonate from the ingredients and adds extra virgin olive oil. The non-use of yeast obviously remains out of the question. Cuckuc proposes the most classic toppings: grilled Umbrian sausage, Norcia ham and, in the vegetarian version, wild herbs or soft cheese and rocket.

At Faliero's, on the other hand, it is possible to find the cake in decidedly more numerous variations, but also used as a bread to accompany the dishes offered by the kitchen.

Molise, naturally gluten-free

There are clichés that have nothing truthful about them. Among these, the fact that Molise does not exist is easily refutable, starting from the great agricultural tradition of this central region of the fascinating Italian boot. Among the great products of nature that belong to the food and wine tradition of this small and dynamic region, many are used for the preparation of naturally gluten-free dishes. Let's see some of them and discover their characteristics.

PAMPANELLA

This is a peasant dish and features pork as the protagonist. Typical of the municipality of San Martino in Pensilis, it owes its name to the cooking technique with which it was once prepared. In fact, when the peasants were away from home, they used to prepare this pork by wrapping it in vine leaves, so as to be able to contain the ingredients with which the dish was cooked and at the same time they had a support with which to eat it, a sort of natural dish. The ingredients are very few. In addition to garlic, used in abundance, there is chili powder, both sweet and spicy, and wine vinegar. This dish has a strong and intense taste, suitable to be combined with full-bodied and structured drinks.

RANDIN PIZZA

This ancient Molise dish is nothing more than a corn pizza. It is a very poor and simple bread, which in ancient times was cooked "under the cup", i.e. under an iron lid covered with hot coals. In the modern preparation, cornmeal, water and salt are mixed together until all the ingredients are blended. The dough is placed in a pan sprinkled with extra virgin olive oil and then covered with more extra virgin olive oil. Cooking takes place in the oven and once cooked it can accompany many dishes, such as boiled vegetables or legumes. It can also be eaten with cured meats and cheeses or enriched with spices and chili peppers.

U BREDETTE

A typical dish of Termoli is this fish broth, a sort of fish soup. This is the typical dish of coastal Molise cuisine and was usually eaten by fishermen. There are many varieties of fish used for this soup, such as sea cicadas, clams, mullet, tub gurnards, scorpion fish, squid, cod and cuttlefish. The tomato and a pinch of chilli are added to the fish. The dish is highly aromatic and complex, capable of replacing an entire meal, especially if accompanied by corn pizza.

PEZZATA OF CAPRACOTTA

This dish was eaten by shepherds during the transhumance. It is a stew of sheep, lamb or goat. The type of meat depended on the animal that was injured during the transhumance and therefore, unable to continue the journey, it was slaughtered on the spot and then boiled to make a stew. Today sheep meat is mainly used, which is cut into large pieces and cooked with tomato, aromatic herbs and chilli pepper.

AGNONESE TRIPE KNOTS

This dish is very ancient, linked to the world of sheep farming. These are pieces of lamb tripe, garlic, parsley, tomato, pepper, lard and salt. It is a very interesting and easy to prepare dish, with a strong taste that stimulates the appetite. The peculiarity lies in the tripe strips which are stuffed with a mixture of lard, parsley, garlic and pepper, knotted and then lowered into the tomato sauce to complete the cooking.

PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA

Monthly food and food culture magazine

Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 n. 11/bis, December, 2022 English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Antonio Puzzi ADVERTISING David Mandolin PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin

EDITING OFFICE

30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 Fax +39 0421 83178

E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it follow us www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Manuel Rigo, Paola Dus — Mediagraf lab

ILLUSTRATIONS by Giulia Serafin

PRINTING OFFICE MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) - ITALY

EDITORIAL AND TECHNICAL COMMITTEE

Marisa Cammarano, Alfonso Del Forno, David Mandolin, Virgilio Pronzati, Caterina Vianello.

ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS FOR

ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES

ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana U.S.A. Pizza Today, P.M.Q. –TEL +39 0421 212348 FAX +39 0421 83178

CHEESES

Since 1990, Pizza e Pasta Italiana has been the Italian magazine of reference for professionals working in the pizza sector. As the organiser of international events such as the Pizza World Championship, Pizza e Pasta Italiana magazine tells the story of pizza over time, in Italy and in the world, through scientific articles, interviews with professionals, thematic insights on toppings, ingredients and specialities, processing techniques and new trends, with a constant spirit of service towards the restaurateur.

Slices is a print and digital publishing project that continues to grow by looking into some of the basic raw materials to make pizza to perfection. "Slices" of culture for professionals only, offering them a practical and immediate tool to progressively contribute to spreading knowledge of raw materials, processing techniques, technologies and the most suitable tools to prepare, with passion and love, one of the most loved dishes in the world.

/Grains- Part 05 /Toppings, ingredients and specialities - Part 06 /Pizza equipment and supplies - Part 07

Second edition: /Ingredients, specialities and cheeses - Part 08

www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it