Slices/03 by Pizza e Pasta Italiana

Slices/ 03

pizza equipment and supplies

PERFORATED IT’S GI.METAL

INNOVATION, REVOLUTION, EVOLUTION Gi.Metal has been manufacturing INNOVATION for over 30 years: Functional and style news at its birth, in 1986. REVOLUTION in 1998 with the invention of the perforated peel, imitated from all over the world, Progress today with the new line EVOLUZIONE, created for people who are never satisfied. Over 30 years of history, because perfection cannot be improvised.

gimetal.it

Quick ignition and oven heating in a short time

Healthy and smokes-reduced combustion

High eeciency heat, maintenance and duration

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EDITORIAL

The light has finally returned and production activities have resumed at their usual pace, actually, faster, to make up for the time lost due to the pandemic. The smell of fresh air is everywhere, and although there are still rules to be respected for common safety, the deafening noise of the machines of large industries, the teeming ferment of the large laboratories, the slow columns of enormous trucks on the motorways, are here to assure us that the worst should be behind us. This pandemic, despite the amount of grief, pain and the serious social and economic losses it has caused, has also pushed us to reflect on our lives, after many have said that "it will no longer be the same", both in our individual lives and our communities. People have been and still are rediscovering their countries, increasing in everyone the sense of belonging to a common homeland, often little known until last year. In addition, Europeans - not only the inhabitants of the 27 countries of

Let’s with start seriousness andagain enthusiasm BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

the European Union - have rediscovered the value of Europe and its institutions. Of course, every citizen of this continent is linked to their homeland, but now feels a citizen of Europe and it is with this awareness that experiences, skills, values and opportunities in culture, science, business and products are being put together. In this way, European "multinationals" are being born to compete in a world of great economic powers. You need to be powerful because if you’re small, you’ll be crushed. In this completely new framework, Italian industry presents itself to the world rich in new knowledge, with important new skills, technologically advanced and not only in fashion, agri-food, pharmaceuticals, automotive, shipbuilding, because there is no longer a field with no qualified presence of made in Italy products. It is therefore with great pleasure and with motivated pride that I present this magazine, with the hope that it will be a valuable tool for getting to know Italy and its products better.

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SUMMARY

PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

ARTICLES

RECIPES

p.16

Massimiliano Prete

p.30

Guglielmo Vuolo

p.6

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The new spring of Italian industry and creativity BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

p.10

p.18

p.26

How to choose the equipment for your restaurant

How the pizza cooks

Work tools, when and how to use them

BY GUIDO PERIN

BY EDITORIAL STAFF

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BY EDITORIAL STAFF

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Cooking pizza BY EDITORIAL STAFF

p.44

Preserving food:

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BLAST CHILLING, DEEP-FREEZING AND FREEZING BY EDITORIAL STAFF

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Francesca Gerbasio

p.38

Not just flours THE IMPORTANCE OF EQUIPMENT BY D.M.

p.48

Jacopo Mercuro

p.54

Enrico Murdocco

p.50

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Catering 4.0 NEW TECHNOLOGIES FOR A REVOLUTION IN THE SECTOR BY DAVID MANDOLIN

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1. The new spring/of Italian industry

BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

and creativity

We are leaving behind a very bad period, with the Covid-19 pandemic that has affected the inhabitants of the entire planet, bringing grief and pain everywhere and blocking numerous industrial, artisanal and commercial activities worldwide. But we are getting out of it and Italy has rolled up its sleeves by committing to relaunch its industries, many of which have in the meantime been renewed, focusing with increased commitment on quality, cutting-edge technologies and aesthetic beauty.

TODAY THE ITALIAN INDUSTRY, AND NOT JUST THE ENGINEERING INDUSTRY, OFTEN PRESENTS ITSELF IN A NEW GUISE, HAVING TAKEN CARE OF THE QUALITY AND GOODNESS OF ITS PRODUCTS, ENRICHING THEM, AS IS THE ITALIAN TRADITION, WITH BEAUTY AND ELEGANCE. There have been moments that have caused fear for the worst, but most of the Italian industries, obliged for long periods to forced breaks, in the meantime thinking about tomorrow, have renewed and refined their operating technologies with unthinkable enthusiasm and great ability.

This has happened, and continues to happen also for large kitchens, the vast and complex world of catering, including pizzerias; for ovens and equipment for bakers and confectioners.

AND ONCE AGAIN THE TYPES OF PRODUCTS MADE IN ITALY - KITCHENS FOR EVERY NEED, OVENS, MIXERS, VARIOUS EQUIPMENT, ETC. - PRESENT IN POST-PANDEMIC TRADE FAIRS, ARE THE MOST SOUGHT AFTER, ALSO THANKS TO AN ABSOLUTE FIRST-RATE INDUSTRIAL TRADITION In Italy the relationship between the kitchen in its various expressions, the people who work there and the equipment used is very close, so that all the tools that we find in the kitchens of restaurants and collective canteens; the kitchens and ovens present in the pizzerias and in other minor catering activities, such as the ovens and the various equipment for bread-making, are the result of a synergy between the great Italian chefs, the most advanced pizza makers, the best bread artisans and great technicians and industry experts. For this reason, being Italy, the home of great beauty, there is also a close relationship between the quality of the product, its functionality and the aesthetic aspect, which is always well-tended to.

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

Let's start from these considerations to slightly broaden the prospects that lie ahead, thanks also to the strong commitment of Europe which, with the Recovery fund, is offering great support to technological renewal and the green economy. The almost exit from the pandemic, thanks to a blanket vaccination, , has also aroused in Italians a new fervor, a new desire to do and do well, a refined search for beauty, as if a new spring was exploding.

WE ALL KNOW THAT MADE IN ITALY IS A GUARANTEE AND THE ITALIAN INDUSTRY HAS WON THE ESTEEM OF OPERATORS AROUND THE WORLD DAY AFTER DAY. And not only in the engineering industry, but in numerous other sectors, from pharmaceuticals to agrifood, from shipbuilding to furniture and furnishings, appearing today at international fairs that are starting up again and in markets around the world with just pride. Italy is the homeland of agri-food, thanks to a thousand-year-old tradition.

ITALY HAS A GASTRONOMIC HISTORY CODIFIED DOWN INTO THE MEDIEVAL CODES AND THEN INTO THE FIRST PRINTED BOOKS OF THE RENAISSANCE.

1. THE NEW SPRING OF ITALIAN INDUSTRY AND CREATIVITY

IN THE PAST CENTURIES THE RICHEST, MOST BEAUTIFUL AND CURIOUS EUROPEAN YOUTH ARRIVED IN ITALY TO LEARN ABOUT ITS HISTORY AND ENJOY ITS BEAUTY, VISITING VENICE, FLORENCE, ROME, NAPLES AND THUS DISCOVERING THE REFINED CUISINE OF THE NOBLE HOUSES AND THEN MAKING IT KNOWN IN THEIR COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN. And, again in Italy, in Naples, the modern pizza was born, which in recent decades has conquered the world. Those who ask the reasons for such success are easy to answer. In the kitchens of villas and castles, in Milan, Turin, Venice, Mantua, Ravenna, Parma, Florence, Rome, Naples, Palermo, the best European chefs worked since the Middle Ages, leaving recipe books that are still studied, printed and disseminated today. It was like a competition between the kitchens of the powerful, so for centuries in Italy there has been a continuous improvement of the dishes and the service, arriving in the eighteenth century to enchant the whole of Europe. For pizza, it is enough to say that, being the food of the people, it did not need many products to be made, but the ingenuity and skill of the pizza chefs to make it always tasty and flavourful.

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BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

The Italian products and technologies that we present in the following pages are the offspring of a long and fascinating history, of the enthusiasm released by this extraordinary post-pandemic spring, made with the use of the best raw materials and rich in cutting-edge technology, as well as expression of great taste and filled with beauty. It is Made in Italy, a brand that is a guarantee of high quality, as many around the world who have been using them for some time now know.

MADE IN ITALY, LOVED IN THE WORLD.

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BY EDITORIAL STAFF

How to choose the equipment 10

The choice of equipment for the restaurant is as important as the choice of which raw materials will be utilised in the pizzeria or in the restaurant in question. It may seem obvious, but often we don’t consider that kneaders, refrigerators and small parts determine the quality of the work of fumes, these rules and consequently greater or lesser customer satisfaction. The tendency to save money on the purchase of equipment can be beneficial in the short term but in the long term is a not very functional and expensive strategy.

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

HOW TO CHOOSE THE EQUIPMENT

for your restaurant On the other hand, it should be remembered that it is not necessary to equip yourself with professional tools that are not suitable for your volume of work, in fact it would not make sense to dedicate space and energy to a machine with limited use and that is also very expensive. Those who already own a place should know what their needs are, but those who find themselves starting a business for the first time are faced with many proposals. Before choosing the type of equipment that will be used, it is advisable to take into consideration some important factors, such as the budget available, the type of premises you intend to start up, the space you intend to dedicate to equipment and check whether or not there are tax breaks, financing or tax deductions on the purchase.

11 — LO W EN ERGY CON S U M P T I O N When you decide to renovate the inside of a restaurant, you would like it to your taste, taking into account factors such as the aesthetic aspect and the quality of the work that will take place. It should be considered that energy consumption is very important in the choice of the refrigerator, the oven and all the kitchen equipment. Since 1st July 2016, the ECE - Professional Energy Classification Labeling - a new regulation that establishes the maximum consumption of a cold appliance has been in force. This means that all the latest generation professional refrigerators and freezers give energy savings of between 30 and 50% compared to obsolete equipment, a big difference if you consider that almost half of a restaurant’s energy consumption is from fridges and freezers.

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BY EDITORIAL STAFF

To choose the right oven, you need to understand what its use will be, the type of product you intend to cook and the availability of space and flue that you have inside the room. For the wood-fired oven, in fact, it is essential to comply with the regulations in force regarding the emission of fumes. These rules are different for the municipalities and regions and it is not certain that they will remain unchanged over the years. The electric oven does not require flues or soot eliminators, however, exactly as for the woodfired oven, its added value is given by the insulation and consumption, two elements in close correlation: the better its ability to maintain its "temperature", the greater the savings that can be obtained in terms of consumption.

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MULINO PADANO

Facebook: mulinopadano / Instagram: mulino_padano

FOCACCIA WITH DATTERINI TOMATOES AND BASIL Focaccia is the traditional food of Italian culinary culture. Here you can find a professional recipe made with the collaboration of Konrad Jaworski, Bianchi Group. He used 2 flours of our lines for professional pizza, Caprì 250 and Caprì Manitoba, with great success and taste. Ingredients for the dough: 500 g of Caprì Manitoba 500 g of Caprì 250 750 g of water 25 g of sea salt 2 g fresh yeast Ingredients for the topping: 50 g of olive oil Red and yellow datterini tomatoes Freshly picked basil leafs Sea salt Olive oil

13 — Method: 1. To start mix both flour to 650 g of water and cover for an hour to rest. 2. Now add the yeast, the remaining 100 g of water, salt and oil, until gluten is strong and dough smooth. Leave covered for 45 minutes to relax. 3. Make first strech and fold and cover for 45 minutes. Repeat the process 2 more times. 4. Shape into 2 balls and transport to 40 cm diameter oiled trays and cover with cling film. Leave for another hour and then transport to fridge to ferment for 24 hours. 5. Take both doughs out the fridge and dress with olive oil. Leave to rise until double in size, then press in your toppings. Dress with more olive oil and course sea salt on top. 6. Bake after 30 minutes of rest in a hot bread oven at 250 degrees top and 250 degrees bottom for 20-25 minutes.

Mulino Padano S.p.A. Enjoy! via E. Mattei, 25/27 | 45030 Salara - RO - Italia Tel. +39 0425 88616 | Fax. +39 0425 88622 | info@mulinopadano.com | www.mulinopadano.com

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The choice of equipment depends very much on the budget you have available, it is preferable to purchase a new oven: it is in fact a piece of equipment that will guarantee the highest standards required, something that second hand equipment cannot guarantee, however well it may have been cared for by the previous owner. The level of energy consumption of an oven depends not only on the oven itself, but also on the use made of it: all static electric ovens in circulation offer three types of cooking, by conduction - that is, the passage of heat from direct contact of the pizza with the stalls, by convec— 14 tion, that is given by the passage of hot air inside the chamber and finally by radiation, that is, with the heat source coming from above. If you prefer the heat given for example by the contact of the pizza with the oven floor, you will be able to reach the desired temperature very quickly, but the heat dispersion will be fast. On the other hand, if the temperature is managed uniformly, taking care to control the temperatures of the top, chamber and floor, the temperature can be kept constant even after several hours, in this case the ideal is an oven with efficient insulation. Another added value is the presence of a digital control console, the modern electronic cards allow an “economy” management of the oven temperature, by immediately setting the desired temperatures.

BY EDITORIAL STAFF

Expertise and specialization are the main features of Dell’Oro, that from over half century produces a whole range of strong and reliable machines, completely “made in Italy” with the primary aim to help you in your work. Automatic divider and rounder moulders

Screw round moulders

Levelling machines for pizza

Spiral mixers

Kneading arms mixers

Fork mixers

THE QUALITY, OR YOU BUY IT NOW, OR YOU PAY IT LATER 23868 VALMADRERA (Lecco) ITALY Viale XXV Aprile, 42 e-mail: info@delloro.it diedello@tin.it Tel.: +39.0341.581202 Fax: +39.0341.200251

w w w. d e l l o ro. i t

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RECIPES

MASSIMILIANO PRETE

Massimiliano Prete

The love story between Massimiliano Prete and dough starts very early: a love that leads him at only 15 years old to leave his Puglia to go to Asti, where he works for years in the typical French pizzeria (originating in Tramonti). Then he leaves for Saluzzo, a city where he establishes himself as a pizza chef and pastry chef and where he manages the Piazzaffari confectionery cafeteria in Piazza Cavour, in the heart of Saluzzo with his wife. In 2011 he opens Teatro del Gusto, the pizzeria restaurant which for 7 years will propose researched and carefully pepared dishes to the people of Saluzzo and tourists. In 2014 Massimiliano decides to change: he closes PiazzAffari, renews the restaurant and opens Gusto Divino, one of the first gourmet pizzerias of Piedmont, becoming part of the contemporary revolution of pizza, conceived as a meeting between innovation and tradition. In 2016 he inaugurates Gusto Madre, a contemporary pizzeria right in the center of Alba: he is recognized not only as a pizza chef, but also as a yeast expert. In fact, the doughs are the real flagship of its culinary proposal and the peculiarity that differentiate his creations from other gourmet pizzas: new, good and digestible, result of research and constant development. All this, combined with the selection of raw materials for fillings and continuous experiments to create more original combinations, is what transforms a great pizza into a gastronomic pizza. His belief is that excellence requires dedication and so, in order to focus on the premises of Turin and Saluzzo, he leaves Gusto Madre of Alba, closes the Teatro del

Gusto and gives the Turin restaurant a new name: Sestogusto. The sixth taste, according to researchers, is the sensitivity of the mouth to the taste of carbohydrates. What, according to the young owner, "allows us to feel great love for pizza, bread and all wheat-based doughs." This is what has animated him in all these years and will guide him in his new projects. "Life is like good dough. If it receives heat and stays alive, it grows, changes and brings happiness."

Hygge Croccante

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

PRE-DOUGH:

High fibre content type 1 strong flour water

1000 g (35.27 oz)

450 ml (15.27 US fl oz-15.84 Uk fl oz)

brewer's yeast

7 gr (0.247 oz)

mother yeast

50 gr (1.763 oz)

Pre-dough: Unite all the ingredients and create a very rough dough. Let it ferment 14 h at 18 ° C (64.4°F).

GEL: Ottimais flour water

50 grams (1.76 oz)

100 grams (3.38 US fl oz-3.52 fl oz)

FINAL DOUGH: the whole pre-dough

all the gel

High fibre content type 1 flour water 1110 ml

1 kg (35.27 oz)

(37.53 US fl oz - 39.06 Uk fl oz)

Salt 40 grams (1.410 oz) Oil 50 grams (1.76 oz)

Malt 10 gr (0.353 oz)

TOPPING: Wild salmon fillet fine salt

300 grams (10.58 oz)

cane sugar

Method

(HYGGE CRISP)

300 grams (10.58 oz)

GEL: Bring the water to the boil, pour on the flour, mix with a whisk. Put the gel to cool. Final dough: Unite all the pre-dough, flour, malt and about half the water. Start kneading. After creating the glutinic net, add a little at a time all the other remaining ingredients. Let the dough start to leaven for about 50 mins. Create balls of about 260 gr (9.17 oz). Raise for about 2 h. Spread and bake at 270 ° C (518°F) for 6/7 min.

Herbs

17 —

Topping: Mix all the ingredients and sprinkle the fillet with the mixture created. Vacuum seal and leave in the fridge for about 48 h. Ambrosia apple: Wash and dice the apple Season with oil, salt and pepper. Cook the ungarnished pizza base (270 ° C (518°F) for 6/7 min). Take out of the oven and cut into 8 slices. With the use of a sac a poche, add yogurt sauce, sliced salmon, some apple cubes and finally some dill.

1 clove of red garlic blanched 3 times 1/2 blended lemon

APPLE CUBES:

Ambrosia apple

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BY GUIDO PERIN

How the

pizza cooks

H O W DOE S C OOK I NG TAKE PL ACE INS I D E A P I ZZ A? During cooking the mixture undergoes various transformations, physical, chemical and biological, that allow to obtain pizza, with transformations that are identical to those in bread production. At the beginning, a considerable evaporation of the

water until the internal temperature of the mixture reaches 50-60 °C (122°F-140°F), a temperature at which the yeasts succumb and no longer produce carbon dioxide. However, there is considerable enzymatic activity and, after reaching a temperature of 90 °C (194°F) the transformation of the starch granules present in the flour begins.

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The starch, a synthesized organic compound stored in vegetable cells, is found in flour from wheat, spelled, rice, corn, rye, oats, buckwheat, quinoa, etc. It is formed by long glucose chains and, depending on their structure, takes the name of Amylose or Amylopectin. The former, for 20%, makes up normal starch, and the latter for 80%. Amylose is formed by long linear chains, winding in a helix; Amylopectin, on the other hand, has a branched structure. So the starch is actually a mixture of two compounds: amylose and amylopectin. This distinction is important because both amides, to be digested, need to be split into glucose molecules, which is the compound used by the body, by the enzyme alpha-amylase. Digestion starts with chewing and continues in the soft intestine, after having passed into the stomach. The more the starch is attacked by the enzyme from Alfa Amilasi (in the jargon: practically more digestible), the faster glucose becomes available for blood and therefore for the human body. Clinically this process determines a glycemic raising (glycemic index). The difference in the digestibility of starch in food depends on the ratio between amylose (linear structure and slow enzymatic degradation) and amylopectin (branched structure and rapid enzyme degradation, this is due to the fact that the "digestion" agent ie the enzyme alpha-amylase is facilitated in chemical attack by the branched structure of amylopectin in whose molecule many points where to stick are found simultaneously while in amylose it must take step by step on a single point with obvious slowness of action): the richer a vegetable is in amylose the slower its digestion will be (lower glycemic index). However, it must be remembered that a greater digestibility corresponds to a

HOW THE PIZZA COOKS

higher glycemic index, therefore to a faster glucose absorption that corresponds to a peak of insulin in the blood that brings several "collateral" effects including body fat increase, the increased risk of insulin-resistance and diabetes, unbalance of sex hormones, increased risk of tumors and cardiovascular diseases, increased inflammation, etc. Returning to the pizza formation process, it is to be said that the "goodness" of pizza, for many, is the "succulent crust". Now, at a temperature of between 120° (248°) and 140 ° C (284°F) starch is always responsible for the colour and aroma of a good pizza crust. Cooked in a dry environment at high temperatures it turns into smaller molecules called "DESTRINE" which, becoming a dark colour, 19 — emanate fragrances and pleasant aromas. The crust is thickened, there is the caramelization of residual sugar and socalled Maillard reactions begin, involving sugars and proteins and giving its colour. The reactions of Maillard are due to the interaction of reducing sugars and proteins with formation of compounds of a brown colour and with pleasant characteristic aromas of "well cooked" pizza. F RO M A N UT RI T I ON AL P OI N T OF VI EW, ARE L ES S COO K ED FO ODS P REF ERAB L E? I F SO, WH AT S H OU L D YO U DO TO SAF EGUARD FOO D DU RI N G CO OK I N G? AN D FO R P I Z Z A I N GREDI EN TS ? If we were to talk about all the elements about cooking and the consequent variation of nutritional aspects, a food science treaty should be written. As a general criterion, it must be said that cooking on the one hand alters if not even eliminates many vitamins, (negative effect from a nutritional point of view); On the

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other hand it accelerates the hydrolysis processes that make the product more digestible. In particular, in the case of pizza the digestibility of the basic ingredient (flour), whose responsibility, as already mentioned, is of the starch that we find in the mixture, decidedly increased above all with a slow and correct leavening. In fact, the stomach, to digest the complex parts (starches and proteins) must first break it down into glucose and amino acids, through particular hydrolithic processes having the gastric juices as protagonists. If the dough is not cleared (matured), digestion through gastric juices will take longer (to break down simple sugar starches, glucose). The result is what ordinary people define: pizza is little digestible. On the contrary, if you reach the — 20 right maturation of dough, starch and proteins will already be broken down and gastric juices will have to work little to complete digestion. Conclusion: Pizza is "light"! OI L I S A FUN DA ME NTAL ING REDIENT I N PI Z Z A , SHOULD W E QUALITATIVELY U SE SE E D OI L OR O LIVE OIL? Firstly, all vegetable oils currently on the market are food: none is toxic or harmful. If controlled appropriately by the supervisory bodies (for to the presence of pesticide or other pollutants residues) they are more or less valid for the taste and, however, suitable for human consumption. The addition of fat (lipids) to the dough promotes the optimization of gluten formation. And as a fatty substance, historically, in pizza, olive oil has always been the boss. The use of this oil, in fact, added to the mixture is a very ancient practice. Perhaps at the beginning this binomial served to give more taste to focaccia. Today, on the other hand, the addition of lipids into

BY GUIDO PERIN

the dough also provides a series of beneficial effects of pizza quality as well as technological improvements. Years ago it was known that the administration of oils particularly rich in linoleic acid was advantageous for the human body. There is much debate in this regard but what is certain is that olive oil, contrary to other oils, does not increase cholesterol. For these reasons, the use of olive oil in pizza production is certainly recommended. As the market asks for increasingly friable product, for use in different times and places, olive oil in the dough makes the glutinic network more elastic, facilitating greater leavening of dough, and, consequently, a greater digestibility and allows a more correct use of kneading machines, making the dough silkier and preventing its overheating. Finally, it keeps pizza hot longer over time, allowing the consumer to always enjoy it in optimal conditions; In the case of sale by the slice or home delivery, it gives more time to carry out deliveries and finally confers more crunchiness to the product. Extra virgin olive oil is now recognized a beneficial food for a whole series of reasons and actions on the body and, among these is the effect on cholesterol. However, there is a contender to the throne: it is corn oil that, according to a new study (source New Study Finds Corn Oil Superior To Extra Virgin Olive Oil in Lowering Cholesterol), significantly lowers Cholesterol, bringing more favourable changes in total cholesterol (TC) and LDL-C cholesterol (the bad one). The results have shown that corn seed oil lowers 10.9% LDL cholesterol levels, compared to a decrease of 3.5% by extra virgin olive oil. As regards the total cholesterol, corn oil lowers the level by 8.2%, compared to 1.8% of extra virgin olive oil.

Valoriani Ovens, a century-long story at your service

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For non-experts it is to be remembered how, historically, a correlation between the component of saturated fatty acids and cardiological pathologies or metabolism has always been highlighted. In any case, until the presence of — 22 complete researches that affirm the opposite, this correlation has been taken seriously into consideration and applied, consequently, in the diets that adults and in particular of children. It is important to consider, for example, research from 2005 (Costa Rica, researches on a population of 2111 subjects) made by the School of Public Health of the University of Harvard which clearly defines and is statistically proven, how the intensive use in a town in Central America Of an oil (50% rich in saturated fatty acids and used extensively on site) compared with other cooking oils was independently associated with the increase in the risk of myocardial infarction in the population. And this oil had from 3 to 6 times the content in saturated fatty acids compared to olive oil (51% against 8-14%). So, we can see how the choice of the pizza chef to use olive oil in pizza dough finds a non-technological justification but also, and perhaps more significantly, that of the quality of the final product.

BY GUIDO PERIN

AT T H E B AS E OF T H E M EDI T ERRAN E AN DIET T H ERE ARE CERE ALS AN D T H EI R DE RI VAT I VES , I N CLU DI N G F LOU R. T H I S IS T H E F U N DAM EN TAL I N GREDI EN T TO P REPARE A DO U GH , B UT W H AT SH O U L D W E OB S ERVE DU RI N G T H E COO K I N G P H AS E? AN Y RES I DU ES - O R AS H ES - W H AT DO T H EY CO M E F ROM ? AND W H AT RI S KS ARE I N VOLVED? I would focus in particular on the third and fourth point that represent a very important but noticeable problem, linked to the sometimes superficial combustion management in the ovens. I refer to the production of dangerous incombious compounds and their absorption in pizza and the production of damaging compounds for the burning of dough. And it is good to immediately specify that what is often called residue or ash, if it really is ash, is totally inert and free of toxic organic components. But it must actually be ash! Unfortunately, optimal criteria are not always followed in the use of the oven in which, perhaps for a incorrect habits, the presence of the "black" and "carbonized" represented a certain custom. For this reason, not only do traces of tumble (soot), ash appear on the oven floor, and then end up under the pizza, but the presence of carbon burns on the pizza crust itself is enhanced as if it were a value or a quality mark and not a defect linked to health risks. And this is a little strange because, since the early 1900s, it has been known how the incomplete combustion of organic material (wood, coal, etc.) causes the release of many chemical compounds belonging to the category of polyinuclear aromatic hydrocarbons, some of which

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

HOW THE PIZZA COOKS

are very carcinogenic. These products are found on the burned and/or carbonized elements so the burnt pizza crust and the powder present on the oven floor also contain them, if not always in dangerous quantities for the user's health. But even bad combustion, in a dirty oven and inadequate suction causes the emission of these hydrocarbons that mix (adsorb) in the pizza dough, altering the quality in terms of healthiness. HOW I MP ORTANT IS THE CLE ANING OF T H E OV E N ? It would seem useless and obvious to tell a pizza chef to keep his "work bench" well clean. Indeed, for the normal customer, the image of the man dressed in white (flour) provides quality safety that is not found in other professions if not in the medical field. In reality, the vast majority of pizzaioli follows rigorous cleaning and hygiene criteria, especially as lack of attention to these criteria can have huge consequences on the quality of the worked product and cause the ruin of hours of work and fine food material. If the oven is not clean, it is obvious that all the products of the partial combustion, including carcinogenic polynuclear hydrocarbons, remain in the dirt and can pass to the finished pizza. The more if you keep a bad habit of dirtying the bottom of the pizza with the ash and the residual coal, this is equivalent to "spreading" these same hydrocarbons in the food and "dishing them" to the customer THE TIPS TO GIVE TO A PIZZA MAKER TO GUARANTEE A GOOD AND HEALTHY PIZZA. Certainly the choice of flour, oil and, in general, of raw materials. But these are obvious indications. What is very im-

portant for sanitary hygienic quality is the need for those raw materials to be selected that have a quality certification for absence of both pesticide products used in agriculture and their metabolites (or at least certified as concentrations fall within the limits) as other toxicity that can come from cultivation in highly contaminated areas and not subject to health checks (heavy metals, dioxins, carcinogenic hydrocarbons, etc.). The second point is to absolutely avoid the "burn" of the crust, giving it a dark brown colour but without carbonization. Similarly, preventing the "underside" to be dirty of the residues of combustion which contain dangerous health compounds.

bellani.com

+39 030 7058 711 clienti@italmill.com @italmillspa

P r e - c o o k e d f r oz e n b a s i s w i t h n a t u r a l s o u r d o u g h .

Light, crunchy and digestible.

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BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

Work tools, 26

when and how to use them

The pizza has changed and with it the work of the pizza chef has changed, it may seem trivial but behind this simple reflection there are years of research and study on the dough, on pizza workings, on how to balance the relationship between water and flour, a path that is far from finished. If the flours change and customer requests change, it is understandable that those who produce equipment must take into account the needs of those who work behind

a pizza bar and it becomes fundamental at this point to understand what the most suitable tools are. Without expecting to change the professional's working methods, below we offer you some food for thought about the working tools and their potential.

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

WORK TOOLS

P RE PA RAT I ON OF DOUG H Mixture with medium hydration (50% - 60%) Recommended mixer: with dipping arms and fork

Dough with high hydration (70% - 90%) Recommended machine: spiral

Why? The temperature of the heating of the dough is lower and this will favour maturation and leavening - in particular the latter. Both the dipping arm and fork types are ideal for preparing soft pizzas, with fluffy and homogeneous mixtures. These two machines are recommended for the preparation of a soft, Neapolitan style pizza.

Why? The highest speed of this type of mixer (the most recent models reach up to 200 rpm) allows the structural proteins of the mixture (gliadin and glutenin) to absorb more water, which is a predominant part of this type of dough. The heating temperature is higher than the other two kneaders (9 degrees), moreover the dough processing times are much faster than a fork machine.

NB: The heating given by the friction of the dough on the tub changes depending on the type of mixer. The spiral heats up to 9ºC (48.2°F), fundamental data considering that the ideal temperature of a pizza dough is between 21ºC (69.8°F) and 24 ºC (75.2°F). DOUGH A N D I NGRED IENT C ON TROL TOO LS We start from the assumption that to ensure constance and continuity in the production of the mixtures it is necessary to control some parameters, in particular the acidity (pH) and the temperature. The pH of a dough can vary depending on its level of hydration, maturation and leavening.

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The pH meter is the tool that will help the pizza chef in this, especially if we consider that the pH data varies in the same dough with the passage of time. This happens because chemical reactions intervene within the mass that gradually change the characteristics of the dough - and consequently of the pizza you will need to serve. The presence of acetic acid and lactic acid if excessive could compromise the glutinic network, making it difficult to work, while a poor presence would give problems with metabolic absorption. With the pH meter you can evaluate the correct acidity of the dough (around 5.5, 5.6) and at that point start working the ball or the mass you have available.

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Thermometer: The temperature is a fundamental parameter for the success of a mixture: checking and managing the heating or the cooling of the mass guarantees greater constancy in the work, above all if considering that the ideal temperature range for an optimal dough is between 20 °C (68°F) and 25 ° C (77°F).

BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

Leavening stopper: a tool "lent" to pizza chefs from bakeries, it is becoming indispensable in the work of lots of pizzerias. The leavening cell is fundamental for the management of indirect dough, allows you to have a mixture at a constant temperature and with much more stable humidity and acidity parameters.

PIZZ A COO K I N G

Wood-burning oven: Ideal for a mixture with medium hydration (see Neapolitan pizza), the wood-burning oven allows you to maintain the dough softer, thanks to the high heat pizza bakes at, but keeps the pizza disc humid due to the short cooking time, especially in its the central part. Electric oven: For pizza cooking it a ductile instrument, because it allows to cook both highly hydrated dough and not. It must be remembered that the pizza bakes by evaporation and that because of the type of heat diffusion, the electric oven guarantees more constant cooking, giving greater crunchiness to the dough.

Some latest generation electric ovens reach very high temperatures, guaranteeing a "Neapolitan" cooking style - soft pizza, raised cornice, leopard staining characteristic - the market has adapted to the needs of pizza makers that require traditional style ovens to use also in locations that do not have a chimney available.

Every Queen has her scepter. For our 60th anniversary, we designed two.

Our 60th anniversary is the occasion to celebrate, once again, her majesty Queen Pizza Margherita. The ear shaped puncture make it precious and shout out from all the other ones. Realized following the highest professional standards. For those who believe pizza is a fine art. This is real Italian excellence. Designed by: Itamar Harari.

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RECIPES

GUGLIELMO VUOLO

Vuolo

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"In 1968, I was 8 years old, Dad had already put me in the shop. I didn't make pizza but I was there, smelling the air, already breathing the air of a pizzeria; the fact remains that he made me conclude my studies, of course. One evening in 1972, with a very banal excuse - he told me he was not well - he asked me to replace him, I went to the counter and never left. That's all" Thus begins the great love story between Guglielmo Vuolo and pizza. A professional from the past, who combines kindness and availability with a knowledge and mastery acquired over many years of experience and study. Precise and shy, Vuolo represents the fourth generation of a family that fired up its first oven in the heart of Naples in 1908 with his great-grandmother Maria Spavone. "In 1983 I opened my first shop in Naples with her help, then others shaped my profession. In 1996 we moved north east of Naples, to Casalnuovo, and it was a great success, and so on.

In the meantime, with Avpn (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana ed) I travelled half the world, gaining experience and opening up to other cultures, I was in Mykonos, then I remember Eccellenze Campane - an experience that gave me so much - and here we are in Verona, where I am now, having passed through Florence, Japan. " Today the master Guglielmo Vuolo is a craftsman who focuses his work on the quality of the dough (made according to tradition with sourdough or with a little brewer’s yeast, and leavened for 12 to 24 hours at room temperature) and raw materials, and who always has his family at his side in every new professional challenge. The result is the masterful interpretation of traditional classics, the mastery of every technical condition of dough and the proposal of recipes and toppings, which are even unique, because they are very personal and, above all, centered on the search for harmony."

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

DOUGH: water salt

1l (35.2 UK fl oz, 33.8 US fl oz) 50g (1.76 oz)

SANTA CHIARA PIZZA RECIPE sourdough

500g (17.64 oz)

flour (70% Flour 00 Superior W330, 30% flour with integrated grinding X type 1) 1600g (56.4 oz) TOPPING:

Method

baby plum tomatoes smoked provola

80g (2.82 oz)

70g (2.47 oz)

Extra virgin olive oil to taste Grated hard cheese to taste A few basil leaves

Pizza Santa Chiara

For the dough: dissolve the salt in the water, add 50% of the flour and mix. Add the 500g (17.64 oz) sourdough, mix again and then add the rest of the flour. Knead until the mixture is smooth and shiny. Let the dough rest for 30 minutes, then roll it again and let it rest for another half hour. Re-roll the dough once more and then proceed with the shaping, forming 250g (8.8 oz) loaves. Let the dough balls rest on leavening boards for at least 24 hours. The next day proceed with the rolling out and subsequent topping. For the topping: cut the smoked provola cheese into not very thick strips and distribute on the dough disc. Add the baby plum tomatoes cut into fillets and spread the grated cheese on the surface with a uniform and rotating motion. Arrange some fresh basil leaves and season with extra virgin olive oil, with a spiral movement, starting from the centre outwards. Proceed to bake in the oven.

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BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

Cooking pizza 32

It is good to remember that the optimal cooking of a leavened product (whether it is bread, pizza, dessert, etc.) is due to the gradual internal increase of the dough, with the heat modifying the molecular structure of the dough, making it fragrant, soft and crunchy. In the case of pizza, the dough is cooked at a maximum temperature of 95 ° C (203°F), which is the limit of boiling water: the pizza cooks by evaporation and about 60% of the dough is made up of water, so once this temperature is exceeded, the risk is to overcook and therefore burn the dough.

What happens when pizza is cooked? When the garnished dough disc is placed on the oven plate, it can be seen how the dough disc increases in volume, this depends on the expansion of the gases produced by the yeasts, which, stressed by the high temperatures of the oven chamber, exert pressure on the inside the gluten mesh, and swell the dough disc. This happens until the temperature of the pizza reaches 55 ° C (131°F), the limit temperature of the life of the yeasts.

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CONFORME H.A.C.C.P.

CONFORME CARBON-TAX

an excellent pizza comes from the ﬁre the new high performance bricket

In addition to this increase in volume, we also witness a complex series of chemical reactions named after the chemist Louis Camille Maillard: when a dough rich in amino acids and simple sugars is subjected to cooking at high temperature, a series of reactions is generated that lead to the formation of brown compounds and the characteristic smell of freshly baked bread crust. The formation of flavours depends on the type of sugars and amino acids, humidity, temperature, pH and time of exposure to these conditions. To start the reaction, it is necessary to reach temperatures close to 140 ° C (284°F) (oven chamber temperature). Another important factor is time: long heating times push the reaction towards final caramelization products which involve a profound modification of the digestibility properties.

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BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

C O N V E N TI ON , C ONDUCTION A N D R ADI ATI ON Heat is a source of energy that can be spread inside an oven mainly in three ways: Radiation: that is, with the source of heat that comes from the dome or from the top of the oven. In this case, cooking favours the upper part of the dough disc. Conduction: through the direct contact of the base of the oven or the pan with the disc of dough, there is a cooking that favours the lower part of the pizza.

Convention: the hot air that circulates inside the oven allows a more widespread cooking of the dough disc, dehydrating the pizza and its ingredients and allowing the formation of the characteristic alveolation of the pizza cornice. The correct management of the heat diffusion methods allows to obtain a well-cooked or more humid pizza, according to the needs of the pizza chef. In this case, as we will see, the oven plays a fundamental role, giving the pizza chef the opportunity to create very different pizzas.

E LECT RI C OVEN A N D WOOD OVEN

These are the main types of equipment dedicated to pizza and its cooking, although it should be said that the market also offers ovens with combined power systems (gas / wood, pellet / wood, pellet / gas, pellet / gas / wood) , depending on the needs and requirements of the customer. Without going too much into the specifics of each individual piece of equipment - as already mentioned, the market offers new, used, turnkey solutions and much more - we will see in detail what are the main differences between wood and electricity and what to pay attention to when we buy or install a new oven. Leaving aside the aesthetic and functional considerations (oven in sight or not, possibility or not to put a flue, etc.), it should be noted that electric ovens and wood-burning ovens over the years have gradually become more and more similar, each integrating the strengths of the other.

A wood-burning oven equipped with a combined gas / wood system is able to quickly reach the desired temperature, exploiting the constant temperature produced by the gas burner in operation - a very important option, especially if there is a need to quickly resume service - Moreover, thanks to some innovative systems such as the rotation of the cooking surface and its lifting, it is possible to exploit all the heat present inside the oven chamber and thus guarantee uniform cooking of the pizza. For electric ovens energy consumption is often a sore point, but in recent years the costs in the energy bill have progressively reduced, thanks to the use of technologies capable of reducing energy waste and maintaining the constant temperature of the cooking chambers. Another interesting novelty is the spread of electric ovens with which it is possible to cook Neapolitan-style pizza and are therefore able to reach temperatures of over 450 degrees centigrade (842°F) without problems.

1992

Today, Rotoforno SU&GIU is in more that 85 countries around the world.

2021

Marana Forni invents the rotary pizza oven. Rotoforno SU&GIU

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www.maranaforni.it +39 045 6704503 Verona - Italy

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RECIPES

FRANCESCA GERBASIO

Francesca Gerbasio

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Francesca Gerbasio is a professional born in 1982 and originally from Padula, in the province of Salerno, Cilento. Her work is a synthesis of her passion for the art of baking and the enhancement of the territories in which she was born and works, focusing on making the customer experience a genuine and non-artificial sensory experience.

“I began to approach the world of catering in 2001. Immediately after I left school, I started working as a waitress. It was a job that intrigued me. Over the years I realised that this was the sector that I liked and right from the start I wanted to start my own business. But I also realised that, to open a place, I needed to follow other paths and learn. That’s how I met the pizza chef Michele Croccia, who became my teacher. The more I continue, the more I like to open up to new challenges, there is never an end, it is not a monotonous job, it always gives you something both professionally and on a human level. In 2015 La Pietra Azzurra Vallo di Diano was inaugurated, where Michele and I are partners. It's been 6 years already!"

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

Diano

DOUGH:

W 300 flour - of which 10% wholemeal water

680 ml (23 fl oz US, 24 fl oz UK)

fresh yeast salt

1kg (2 lb 3.3 oz)

2 grams (0.07 oz)

20 grams (0.7 oz)

TOPPING: mandolin-sliced potatoes sweet pepper powder

salt cod fiordilatte Sciuscillone chips (Goat Horn crunchy pepper) garlic extra virgin olive oil parsley

"It is a territorial pizza, we are close to Basilicata and sweet pepper is fully present in our kitchen." For the dough: prepare the 20% predough by combining 200 g (7 oz) of flour, 100 ml (3.38 fl oz US, 3.52 fl oz UK) of water and 2g (0.07oz) of fresh yeast. Knead for a couple of minutes leaving it raw, keep it at room temperature for 18 hours at 18°C (64°F). After the necessary time, add the remaining flour and 480 ml (16.23 fl oz US, 16.9 fl oz UK) of water. Start mixing, then add the pre-dough and, gradually, the remaining 100 ml (3.38 fl oz US, 3.52 fl oz UK) of water and, before it runs out, the salt. Let it rest for a couple of hours. At this point, make 250 g (8.8 oz) loaves and let them rest for another 3 or 4 hours. And then again for another 24 hours at a controlled temperature. For the topping: fry the garlic in extra virgin olive oil, add the sweet pepper powder and the sliced potatoes. Sauté them, add a little water and add the salt cod when it’s almost cooked. If you don't want to risk ruining the salt cod you can use the same procedure in a different pan. Once the topping is ready, place the potatoes, fiordilatte and cod on the disc of dough. Straight into the oven (I work at a temperature that touches 400°C/750°F) for a cooking time of about 90 seconds. Complete with Sciuscillone chips, add them just before serving otherwise they risk getting soggy. It is the Goat Horn sweet pepper that was once dried in the sun, then consumed after quick-frying in boiling oil. We complete with a sprinkle of parsley and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

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BY D. M

Not just flours. The importance of equipment

On our trip within the world of pizza we meet Fabrizio Contino (Food & Beverage Consulting Manager), to take an in-depth look into the very close relationship between a good Roman pizza and the right choice - as well as the correct use - of the equipment in pizzeria. "I have always developed and tested many brands of raw materials – Fabrizio tells us- and I also always committed to choosing the most suitable equipment on the market based on the project and customer needs.

I often notice that the focus is only on the raw materials (flours, yeasts, oil etc) but it must be remembered that the result of a good product is given by a synergy of factors or excellent raw materials, adequate equipment and knowledge of the professional pizza chef. In fact, starting from the concept that an excellent quality of raw materials is the basis to create a good final product, we must also pay close attention to the choice of equipment that must be present in the laboratory. "

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

"Firstly, what project do we want to develop? Today the pizza market develops mainly in three types: round pizza, shovel, pan. We can safely say that the types of dough differ from each other for hydration, maturation / leavening times and the weight of the dough ball. The importance of the choice of the oven is basic. We look after our dough, sometimes for days, and we could ruin everything in the last minute, cooking! As cooking is defined as rapid moisture removal, the higher the pizza hydration, the more gentle and unaggressive the cooking method will have to be, to prevent pizza from being cooked on the outside and raw inside. Starting from this basic concept, we go to analyze the various types of pizza and combinations in my opinion most appropriate with equipment. Round pizza: we could say in a coarse manner that is fundamentally divided into two types (in reality there are many more) or the classic and the Neapolitan one. For these types of pizza we usually have a hydration (water-flour ratio) ranging from 55% to 65%, ie for every kg of flour (2,205 lb) we will have 550-650 ml (18.60 Us fl oz-21.98 Us fl oz/19.36 Uk fl oz-22.88 Uk fl oz) of water, and a weight ranging from 180g (6.35 oz) to 250g (8.82 oz) per ball of pizza. This pizza requires "aggressive" cooking also because, as it is little hydrated we could risk making it too dry. It will therefore need a temperature that can vary from 320 ° C (608°F) for about 3 minutes up to 450 ° C (842°F) for 60/90 seconds in the case of Neapolitan pizza. In this case we can use all the types of ovens, although

EQUIPMENT

for example the specification STG on the Neapolitan rigorously requires the only use of a wood-fired oven. Pizza at the shovel: here the hydration varies from 65% to 75%. This pizza is cooked directly on stone like round pizza, but attention, because it has more hydration so the cooking temperature drops strictly to between 275 ° C (527°F) to 300 ° C (572 °F) for about 6 minutes. This pizza needs less aggressive cooking. In this case we recommend an electric oven to obtain uniform cooking, even though professional pizza makers are able to cook a great product even in the flame oven (wood, gas). Pan pizza: hydration ranging from 75% to 90%. This pizza strictly requires the use of the highly performing static electric oven, because it needs gentle cooking that is close to certain types of 39 — bread baking, 275 ° C - 295 ° C (527°F-563°F) for 10-15 minutes depending on the condiments on the Pizza. It is cooked on an iron food pan that therefore acts as an obstacle to heat conduction of cooking: for this reason we will need to increase the power-temperature of the base and lower the temperature of the cooking chamber ceiling. The need for the electric oven is explained. " Let's talk about oven performance. "I believe that the performances that the ovens must absolutely have, regardless of whether they are flame or electric, are the temperature range but above all the thermal flywheel, that is the ability to maintain temperatures in cooking, especially when we talk about high hydration pizza in a pan. Paradoxically, in fact we could also cook with a normal home oven, because the temperature would allow it, but we would have the problem of the maintenance of

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BY D. M

Is it better to cook with an open or closed fireplace? How does moisture affect it and how to manage it?

the temperature: when first putting something in the oven, we would see a temperature drop of 80 ° C-90 ° C (176°F-194°F) which would stop the production of professional and non-homemade pizza. An important piece of advice is therefore to make a careful analysis regarding the insulation of the ovens and, in the case of electric ovens, particular attention to electrical resistances, which must be numerically well present in the cooking chamber. Another important parameter, always considered in the choice of ovens is the weight of the oven itself: the heavier the oven is, the better insulated it will beand the more it will help during busy times, that is when performance is required, without losing the cooking temperature. "

Another element that must be present in the electric oven is the presence of the vapor opening / unloading valve (also called fireplace) which serves exclusively to dry pizza condiments. It will then be the experience of the pizzaioli to open it or not to balance the cooking of the dough and the condiments put. Open valve means releasing humidity from what is cooked then a pizza with very wet seasonings will need in the final phase to open the valve, but generally the pizza is cooked in a static oven, so without ventilation with closed valve. Why? Especially in the pan, where the management of the mixtures is fundamental (but it is equally essential to preserve the pizza until the final tasting of the customer who will strictly taste a crispy product on the outside and soft inside), the post-cooking management is fundamental. The pizza in the pan is based on a concept of "attempted sale": the pizza maker prepares a variety of trays that will then be put on the exhibition counter and the customer will taste the chosen pizza slice

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and which will also have to be heated. It is therefore to be considered that the exposure times of pizzas in the pan are enemy of the fragrance and friability of the pizza itself. A useful tip can be to maintain a moisture reserve between dough and seasoning that at the time of heating will give that fragrance, softness and balanced crunchiness, thus cooking 95% side and keeping that 5% final cooking in the heating of the pizza slice, before serving it to the customer. "

BY D. M

What kind of mixer can we use for each of the three types of pizza? "Surely you need to understand the amount of production and in some cases what kind of product we will make. It is good to remember that the kneaders that have the possibility to increase the speeds are more suitable for high-hydration doughs, which require a greater speed of kneading. Pay attention to a fundamental component, friction. Friction during mixing is the "enemy" of the long maturing-leavening, where we need to have a fairly cold dough temperature, around 18 ° C-20 ° C (64.4°F-68°F). So, the more friction, the more my dough will heat up from the mixer. Other useful advice which may seem trivial but I assure you that it happens very often - it is to immediately decide the capacity of the mixer in order not to waste time preparing double or triple dough by paying staff unnecessarily. My ideal pizzeria still has a double mixer to develop a greater number of types of dough, to always amaze the customer's expectations and why not, in case of technical problems, having another backup machine that allows me to solve the problem and work anyway.

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BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

Preserving food: blast chilling, deep-freezing and freezing Three different ways to use the cold as a food conservation technique and which substantially differ regarding procedures and results. Blast chilling, deep freezing and freezing are very common practices and have very different fields of application, but are very often used as synonyms, we shall see in detail how these proceedings work and what the results are. DE EP F REEZ I N G It is a ultra-rapid cooling method that is carried out by bringing the product in a few minutes to -30 ° C / -40 ° C (-86°F/104°F). The ice micro-crystals are formed inside the food, reducing nutrient losses during thawing. It is a technique widely used at the industrial level and generally all the Supermarket Freezer products have been treated with this procedure. With household appliances it is impossi-

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

STORE FOOD

ble to deep freeze, and if you want to get an effect similar to industrial freezing the only way is to have a rapid temperature chiller, able to bring food to -18 °C (-64,4°F) in a few minutes, and then store deep frozen foods in the deep freezer. FRE EZI N G In the freezing process, which can be carried out through rapid or gradual cooling - the food is taken to a temperature between 18°C (64,4°F) and - 24 ° C (-75,2°F). Fast freezing is a relatively new technique with which the food temperature is reached at around -20 ° C (-68°F) within thirty minutes. To achieve this, food is immersed in a cryogenic solution – not in direct contact with the food - with a refrigerant means or circulating a forced cold air flow between foods. This system does not allow the formation of ice crystals, which during thawing would break the cell membranes of food tissues (and consequently would lower the quality). Slow Freezing is instead typical of domestic appliances and brings food to reach a temperature of - 18 ° C (-64,4°F) from 3 to 72 hours. Slow freezing is the most widespread practice to preserve foods in the long run but even the most harmful for foods if you are not careful. Thawing at room temperature or worse in hot water should be avoided, because the thermal impact would break the ice crystals, making the food juices and nutrients (it is a

45 —

very evident phenomenon for example in meat). The best method is to store the frozen food in the fridge, so as to limit its deterioration and the formation of the bacterial charge. B L AST CH I L L I N G Rapid temperature reduction is used to quickly bring hot food to low temperatures: through a forced refrigerated air flow that rapidly reduces the temperature of food, passing from + 70 ° C (158°F) to + 3 ° C (37,4°F) in just 90 min-

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BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

utes. Thus, essentially, thanks to this technique foods cool themselves very quickly. If you prolong the temperature removal it is possible to freeze quickly (QuickFreezing) bringing the product to a temperature of -20 °C (-68°F) in just 30 minutes: this is the technique that should always be used for example to prepare sushi, in order to eliminate any trace of parasites from raw fish. It is also used in bakery, in patisserie and recently even in pizzerias. Blast chilling can be positive (the food is taken to + 3 ° C (37,4°F)) or negative (the heart of the product brought to -18 ° C(-64,4°F), as happens with deep freezing).

T H E ADVA N TAGE S OF BL AST CHILLING We have seen that the rapid lowering of the temperature causes the water contained in the food to freeze quickly, while maintaining the characteristics of the products (both cooked and raw) unchanged. This is the best way to extend the life of cooked foods - which if left to cool slowly could promote the proliferation of bacteria that are harmful to health. Another important advantage is that given by the fact that the humidity of a cooked food, for example a baked product, will remain unchanged after the blast chilling process, and once cooked it will maintain the same characteristics of the "fresh"

product. For example, in the case of a pizza base or a pastry dough, the blast chiller can become a valuable aid to avoid dehydration caused by cooling to room temperatures, thus giving a softer consistency to the dough. Furthermore, from a purely operational point of view, blast chilling allows you to always have ready-made bases available. In the case of pre-cooking, the cooking of the product is interrupted a few minutes before the end by passing through the blast chiller. The advantage will be that of being able to regenerate in a few minutes a product that will have all the characteristics of a fresh one.

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R Jacopo RECIPES

JACOPO MERCURO

Mercuro Jacopo Mercuro is a young pizzaiolo, passionate and tenacious in pursuing his dreams as well as the search for his expressive way. "It all started a few years ago, within the walls of my house. I worked in the family law firm, but I felt that it wasn't what made me happy at the end of the day. When I got home, I messed around with doughs, time flew; slowly I started to look more deeply into it and I discovered that pizza is life. I attended some professional courses and then I opened "hands in dough", my first pizzeria by the slice, in Rome. " "Roman pizza has many declinations, the first one that comes to mind is the Roman pizza in a pan: a fantastic product, my first love. Then there is the round Roman pizza, the low and crispy pizza that destiny put in front of me. The Roman round pizza was a product on which no one counted, if not the old places opened in the early ‘70s. As a child, we ate pizza which was thin and crispy, without crusts. The Roman round pizza was the only pizza that had not evolved and the

game was to take a product of the past and make it make a jump into the future, redefining it and becoming its reference point. So I started 180grammi three years ago, a crazy bet, a path that led us to be the top Roman round pizza pizzeria, earning three slices from the Gambero Rosso guide, enjoying success among the public and critics. " "When asked what the characteristic of the 180gram pizza is, I reply: "It’s cooked".

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E Burro

PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

Parmigiano e tartufo

TOPPING:

fiordilatte mozzarella

cream of 36 month Parmigiano Reggiano Vanilla from Madagascar crumble of salted butter grated Vacche Rosse Parmigiano Reggiano uncined black truffle scratch of Sichuan pepper

(PARMESAN, BUTTER AND TRUFFLE PIZZA) It is a thin and crispy pizza, which comes from a solid pre-ferment managed at 18ºC (64.4ºF) for 20 hours, cooked in a flame oven (gas), at 330ºC (626ºF) for about two minutes. We raised the concept of Roman round pizza, so much so that today very young people can engage in a product that no one focused on. Rome needed its pizza, so we created what is defined "the Roman pizza of the future." "The experimentation on the dough goes hand in hand with the work done in the kitchen, where we study condiments that enhance our pizza: one of my favourite dishes is pasta with butter and Parmesan, and it had to become a pizza! So a game of varieties and consistencies was born. On a base of fiordilatte mozzarella, on its way out we add a cream of 36 month Parmigiano Reggiano with the addition of Vanilla from Madagascar that enhances its flavour; We find the butter in a crumble of salted butter, grated Vacche Rosse Parmigiano Reggiano, uncined black truffle and a scratch of Sichuan pepper that will give us a citrus note."

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BY DAVID MANDOLIN

Catering 4.0

New technologies for a revolution in the sector

The catering sector is experiencing - as is society in general - profound changes that will rouse over the role of restaurateur and the efficiency with which he can organize his own profession in the years to come. Quick and impetuous changes due to technological progress and accelerated by the pandemic: increasingly advanced technologies that dialogue with the restaurateur and that oblige them to reorganize and sometimes re-establish - success-

fully and profitably - their business model. From the latest generation machinery for preparations in the kitchen and pizzeria to management software, from digital platforms to new intelligent materials: innovation represents today for the restaurateur an effective and sometimes obliged way to improve performance, standardize processes and products and increase Interactions with one's own customers as well as optimize those with suppliers. Take ovens for kitchens and lately also

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PIZZA EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES

for pizzerias, for example: thanks to the Internet of Things system they allow you to manage complex functions combining the immediacy of use. The 4.0 system allows you to plan cooking and preparation, measure them up according to your gastronomic proposal and control them remotely, reduce management costs and lower the margins of error of operators, freeing the managers from daily tasks and allowing them to devote themselves to the management of their own business. The touch screen of these ovens makes it possible to substantially access dedicated content and improves organization: from the possibility of saving the settings suitable for your work to organize and tidy up your menus and cooking in personal folders, from networking the oven by means of WiFi connection with PC or tablet to make ovens communicate with each other in remote mode. The same advantages are obtained for example also with the tools for leavening controlled in the art of baking: to be able to set technological support according to the parameters most suited to its doughs, frees energy for the professional, as well as guaranteeing an effective and controlled yield of constant quality. Without considering the vast offer of digital applications or software and applications that allow you to manage dialogue in real time between the various neuralgic points of activity at the time of taking customer orders, organize reservations, trace the timing of reservations and their evasion by the restaurant, checking the availability of various goods in the warehouse in real time, so as to optimize the flow of sales and the relationship with suppliers.

CATERING 4.0

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These tools also allow you to analyze the trend of the whole activity in real time thanks to the data collection and analysis capacity not available until recently: think, for example, of the data on goods sold, the statistics on income, predicting production capacity based on warehouse level. To be able to count on exact data and in almost real time allows to organize in a more rational and effective way, eliminating waste and actions dictated by sensations rather than by objective data.

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The advantages for the restaurateur are therefore undeniable and quantifiable: a more punctual and efficient organization of work, more accurate control and based on objective findings of the work of the collaborators and the degrees of restaurant performance, a standardization of — 52 processes, procedures and the chance to encode production to the benefit of both the quality of the product served (more constant) and cost control.

BY DAVID MANDOLIN

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R Enrico RECIPES

ENRICO MURDOCCO

Murdocco Enrico Murdocco is a young 29-year-old pizza chef with plenty of determination and resourcefulness. As a young adult, he took over his first pizzeria, Speedy Pizza in Corso Vercelli in Turin, which over the years has been confirmed as one of the best take-away pizzerias in the city. He learnt his way around this field by attending his studies and working in a pizzeria on weekends, and decided to learn more about catering after completing his studies. After a period in the team of Michelin chef Michelangelo Mammoliti in La Madernassa di Guarene (Cn), he realises "the importance of a very precise approach to work and I understand what I needed to improve my work and the use of raw materials. I start studying again, I have to train and understand the working processes to obtain more satisfactory results: by learning to minimise, without exaggerating in excessive combinations, I find the correct compromise between a few ingredients used well and good quality work ".

2019 sees the opening of Tellia which is, as the name suggests, specialised in the preparation of pan pizzas: this is the year that Gambero Rosso recognised it as Pizza of the year, in the Sliced Pizza category. Only a starting point, for Enrico Murdocco: the Roman-style pan pizza allows, thanks to its particular "preparation" technique, to express my training experience, of cooking and baking in the most appropriate way, integrating it into the creative process. The preparation of pizza in a pan is very close to that of a dish, as it allows you to experiment with different cooking methods for the various topping ingredients and special doughs."

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(ANCHOVIES IN PIEDMONTESE DIALECT)

PHASE 1: PRE-DOUGH Medium Type 1 flour (300W) water

1000 g (35.27 oz)

500 ml (17.6 fl oz UK, 16.9 fl oz US)

compressed yeast

10 g (0.35 oz)

PHASE 2: DOUGH pre-dough

1510 g (53.26 oz)

Type 2 Weak flour (200W) water

40 g (1.4 oz)

extra virgin olive oil malt

1000 g (35.27 oz)

1100 ml (38.7 fl oz UK 37.2 fl oz US)

unrefined salt

40 g (1.4 oz)

10 g (0.35 oz)

compressed yeast

5 g (0.18 oz)

TOPPING: fior di latte mozzarella

Anciué

lime zest

Method Green sauce: Soak the bread in the vinegar, clean the garlic by eliminating its germ from the middle. Squeeze the vinegar from the bread and blend all the ingredients together, adding the oil slowly until the correct consistency is obtained. Cooking and topping: Once the loaves are ready, proceed with the typical drafting of the Roman-style pan, add a drizzle of oil to the pan and carry out a first phase of cooking in a pizza oven at 280 °C / 536 °F for 8/10 minutes, remove from the oven and allow to cool. After which it can be positively blast chilled and placed at a controlled temperature until use, or proceed with topping. Spread a little fior di latte mozzarella on the cooled base and add a sprinkle of grated Parmesan cheese, regenerate at 240 °C / 464 °F for 3 minutes, when it comes out of the oven cut into regular squares, add some sauce and a whole anchovy per portion, finish with grated lime zest. FOR THE GREEN SAUCE: 1 bunch of fresh parsley

grated Grana Padano aged 12 months

100 g (3.53 oz) of stale bread

desalted anchovies from Cetara (or in oil)

30 g (1 oz) white wine vinegar

1 clove of red garlic blanched 3 times 3 anchovy fillets Extra virgin olive oil

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PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture magazine

COLOPHON

GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo, Paola Dus — Mediagraf lab COVER ILLUSTRATED by Giulia Serafin

Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 n. 8/bis, September, 2021 English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi ADVERTISING David Mandolin, Caterina Orlandi PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 Fax +39 0421 83178 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it follow us

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ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana U.S.A. Pizza Today, P.M.Q. Steve Green – TEL +39 0421 212348 FAX +39 0421 83178

Since 1990, Pizza e Pasta Italiana has been the Italian magazine of reference for professionals working in the pizza sector. As the organiser of international events such as the Pizza World Championship, Pizza e Pasta Italiana magazine tells the story of pizza over time, in Italy and in the world, through scientific articles, interviews with professionals, thematic insights on toppings, ingredients and specialities, processing techniques and new trends, with a constant spirit of service towards the restaurateur.

Slices is a new print and digital publishing project that will be developed by taking into consideration some of the basic raw materials to make pizza to perfection. "Slices" of culture for professionals only, offering them a practical and immediate tool to progressively contribute to spreading knowledge of raw materials, processing techniques, technologies and the most suitable tools to prepare, with passion and love, one of the most loved dishes in the world. First edition:

/Flour - Part 1 /Toppings, ingredients and specialities -Part 1

/Pizza equipment and supplies - Part 1 Upcoming publications: /Mozzarella and cheeses - Part 1