Perfect Diver Magazine 22 issue by perfectdiver

diving freediving passion knowledge

No. 22 4(22)/2022

JULY/AUGUST

Price 12,50 € Tax included

MEDITERRANEAN BASIN AQABA IN JORDAN THE KINGDOM OF WRECKS FOR ALL!

the foreword

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

Editor-in-Chief

uckily, hot weather is not a worry underwater, and even if it is too hot on the surface, we can go deeper, and it will immediately get cooler. I have had situations like this before, last year in Croatia, for example. When submerged, the water of the Adriatic

Sea was 25°C, and at 30 m depth it was only 14°C. This is far better than air conditioning ;)

We are in the middle of summer vacation, at least in Europe, and a sweeping July heat wave. In the current issue, which I highly recommend, we prepared several articles on the Mediterranean Sea. Unfortunately, not all of them made it into the magazine, although they will appear in the next issue. The atmosphere that accompanies the dives is amazing – local music, the characteristics of the local cuisine, the sun and sea salt settling on the skin and hair... We also have a special treat for you: Jordan with the cover of this issue, and Bali – Part 1 – rather overland than underwater, but still exciting and very exploratory. There are also a few words about Lanzarote and an interesting look at Dahab. Recently, we could read about a shark attack on a tourist swimming around in the Red Sea, or the closure of beaches in five Barcelona municipalities due to the appearance of sharks. The movie "Jaws" continues to take a toll on these animals. We have two great articles on the subject. Read the text about the fear of sharks and a factual look at these beautiful fish. We warmly invite you to this year's upcoming diving conferences, Diving Talks and Baltictech. What else? We wonder "How to become a better diver", because it is always important to dive safely, and to try to achieve maximum perfection. Do you like our view on knowledge? I have already mentioned sharks, but we still have an insight into the behaviour and life of octopuses. They are incredible, did you know that? And did you know that some species of swallows build their "homes" under the platforms of the lakes in which we dive? In this issue, in addition to swallows, we briefly discuss Lake Niedack, which we recommend especially for divers who like the littoral zone. This issue, this edition, is yours! Click, read, and dive in!

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

table of contents

TRAVELS 14 18 26 34 42

Gozo – I choose you! All around Malta in a week Aqaba in Jordan, the kingdom of wrecks for all! Bali before you dive Dahab's "health resort" viewed a little differently

UNDER THE CEILING 50 Diving in the old Nuttlar lime stone mine

KNOWLEDGE 62 I started diving because I was scared

PLANET EARTH 10 58 66 72

Hanifaru Bay. It takes a lot of mantas to start a cyclone Can contact with a cephalopod be therapeutic? Sharks Swift swallows

EVENTS 22 Diving Talks 2022 56 Baltictech 2022 76 All the trash is ours! Publisher PERFECT DIVER WOJCIECH ZGOŁA ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo

TIPS & CURIOSITIES

redakcja@perfectdiver.com ISSN 2545-3319

78 How to become a better diver?

editor in chief

Wojciech Zgoła

underwater archaeology

Mateusz Popek

photographer

Karolina Sztaba

Hubert Reiss

marketing

english language translators

Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak Reddo Translations Sp. z o.o. Piotr Witek

legal care graphic design and composition

Lawyer Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

the magazine was folded with typefaces

Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky) Open Sans (Ascender Fonts) Noto Serif, Noto Sans (Google)

printing

Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

distribution

dive centers, online store

preorder@perfectdiver.com

cover photo

Anthony Leydet place

Aqaba, Jordania wreck

Cedar Pride

48 24 CYPR 32 LANZAROTE 48 LAKE NIEDACK

www.perfectdiver.com

The Editorial Office does not return unsolicited materials, is not responsible for the content of advertisements and reserves the right to shorten, edit, title the submitted texts and select illustrative materials. Reprinting of articles or parts thereof, copying only with the consent of the Editorial Board. Editors are not responsible for the form and content of advertisements.

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No. 4(22)/2022

editorial team

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

HUBERT REISS

He often repeats that he travels by diving and that is his motto. In 1985

An IT specialist by profession, but a flesh and blood salesman who is not

he obtained a yacht sailor's license, and only in 2006 began to dive. In the

afraid of any job. Diving has always been my big dream. At the beginning

following years he improved his skills by obtaining the Dive Master degree.

it was supposed to be a challenge, a short episode but it turned out to be

He completed nearly 650 dives in various climatic conditions. Since 2007, he

a passion for the end of the world and one day longer. Under water I react

has been taking photographs underwater, and since 2008 he has also been

and rest. As a Divemaster, sidemount Razor diver, and recently also a pho-

filming. As an independent journalist, he published dozens of articles, mainly

tographer, I realize my dreams by admiring and immortalizing the beauty of

in journals dedicated to diving, but not only. Co-author of photo exhibitions in

the underwater world. "Passion breeds professionalism, professionalism gives

Poland and abroad. He is passionate about and propagator of diving.

quality, and quality is a luxury in life. Nowadays, especially..."

Since 2008 he has been running his own website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the basis of extensive experience, in August 2018 he created the new Perfect Diver Magazine.

MATEUSZ POPEK

KAROLA TAKES PHOTOS

”My passion, work and life are under water.” He has been diving since 2009.

Karolina Sztaba, and professionally Karola Takes Photos, is a photographer

Since 2008, he's walking in caves. Underwater archeologist by education.

by education and passion. She is currently working at the Trawangan Dive

He participated in numerous projects in Poland and abroad. He has been

Center on a tiny island in Indonesia – Gili Trawangan, where she moved to live

engaged in professional diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the quali-

four years ago. She photographs above and below the water. In addition, she

fications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in underwater work both at

creates photographic projects against littering the oceans and polluting our

sea and inland. Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, especially in the

planet with plastic ("Trapped", "Trashion"). She cooperates with NGO organi-

mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving instructor CMAS M1. In June 2020,

zations dealing with environmental protection and actively participates in

he obtained a doctoral degree in underwater archeology.

pro-ecological actions (coral protection, coral planting, cleaning the world, protection of endangered species). She is also the official photographer of Ocean Mimic – a brand that creates swimwear and surfwear from rubbish collected on the beaches of Bali. She cooperated with many brands of diving equipment for which she created advertising campaigns. In 2019, she became the ambassador of the Polish company Tecline. She has been a technical diver for two years.

+48 502 138 403 http://www.deepdivingslesin.pl/ baza-nurkowa-honoratka/

ANNA SOŁODUCHA

LAURA KAZIMIERSKA

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He

A graduate of Geography faculty at the University

Laura Kazimierska is currently working as PADI

has been diving for over 30 years, including over

of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with a per-

Course Director at TrawanganDive Center on the

20 years as a technical diver. He is a professional

manent smile on her lips! It was probably Destiny

Indonesian island of Gili Trawangan. Founder of

with great theoretical and practical knowledge. He

that led her to Activtour… and she's been here

the Divemastergilis portal.

is an instructor of many federations: GUE Instruc-

on permanent basis. She passionately fulfils the

www.divemastergilis.com @divemastergilis

tor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS PADI, EFR,

dreams of many, organizing diving trips around

For over 7 years she has lived and discovered the

TMX Gas Blender. He participated in many diving

the world, and she has already been diving for

underwater world of Indonesia. She is not only an

projects and conferences as a leader, explorer,

more than half of her life. Each year she explores

avid technical diver, but also the face of the Planet

originator or lecturer. These included the Britan-

a different ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning another pin

Heroes platform and the ambassador of the Ocean

nic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave Scientific

to her diving world map. In winter she changes fins

Mimic brand. She actively contributes to the pro-

Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expedition in

into her beloved skis and gets away into the Alps.

motion of the protection of corals and the natural

Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas Cave in Croa-

A recipe for life? ”The only a dead trunk flows with

environment of fish and marine animals by taking

tia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he is a technical

the current – the explorer's canoe flows up the river!”

part in scientific projects, campaigns against ocean

director at TecLine in Scubatech, and a director of

anna@activtour.pl

littering and cooperating with NGOs in Indonesia.

training at TecLine Academy.

activtour.pl; travel.activtour.pl; 2bieguny.com

@laura_kazi

JAKUB DEGEE

MICHAL ČERNÝ

SYLWIA KOSMALSKA-JURIEWICZ

Polish photographer, winner of awards and dis-

"Wet photos" – He has photographed since he

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature.

tinctions in world underwater photography com-

remembers. After several years of experience as

A graduate of journalism and a lover of good liter-

petitions, has already dived all over the world: with

a diver, he wanted to keep memories of underwa-

ature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes

sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs be-

ter dives. He bought his first compact camera with

a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian.

hind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds

an underwater housing. Over time, however, the

Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and

of hammerhead sharks and humpback whales in

desire to have the best photo began to dominate,

their protection are especially close to her heart.

the Tonga Islands. He participates in specialist

which was not quite possible with the compact

She writes about the subject in numerous articles

photographic workshops. He has been diving for

he used. That's why he switched to the Olympus

and on her blog www.divingandtravel.pl. She be-

27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as soon as

PEN E-PL 5 reflex camera, which allows the use of

gan her adventure with diving fifteen years ago

it was formally possible. He was the first in the

several different lenses. He uses a combination

by total coincidence. Today she is a Divemaster,

world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for

of underwater flashes and lights. He focuses on

she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 con-

underwater macro photography. Recently, in the

wildlife photography, not arrangement. He photo-

tinents. She invites us for a joint journey with the

remote Chincorro archipelago on the border be-

graphs in fresh domestic waters as well as in the

travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is

tween Mexico and Belize, he did it again, taking

seas and oceans of the world.

a co-founder.

a successful attempt to photograph the eye of

He has already won numerous awards at Czech

a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional

and foreign photography competitions. More

magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo

photos can be found on his website, where you

of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of

can also buy them not only as photos, but also as

pixel count, print size, quality).

photos printed on canvas or on another medium. www.mokrefotky.cz www.facebook.com/MichalCernyPhotography www.instagram.com/michalcerny_photography/

constant cooperation

WOJCIECH A. FILIP

constant cooperation

WOJCIECH JAROSZ

AGNIESZKA KALSKA

BARTOSZ PSZCZÓŁKOWSKI

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Acad-

”I can't imagine living without water, where in a free

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have

emy of Physical Education (coaching specializa-

body I experience freedom of the spirit.”

been associated with water practically from birth

• founder of the first freediving and swimming

tion – handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz,

school in Poland – FREEBODY,

Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biol-

• Apnea Academia International and PADI Master

ogy). He connected his professional life with this

Freediver freediving instructor,

first university trying to influence the direction of

• world record holder in freediving (DYN

development of future professionals on the one

253 m),

hand, and on the other planning and implement-

and with diving since I learned to walk. My grandfather instilled my passion for the underwater world, a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the lakes at any free time. I obtained my first qualifications in 1996. A year later I went to Croatia and literally went crazy at the sight of blue wa-

ing research, pushing laboriously in the right di-

• record holder and Polish champion, member

ter, octopus and colorful fish;) I bought my first

rection of the stroller called science. In his free

of the national team in freediving 2013–2019,

underwater camera – Olympus 5060 and started

time he spends his time actively – his main pas-

• winner of the World Championships in freed-

the adventure with underwater photography. I ac-

iving 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

sions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill

quired my diving experience in the Canary Islands,

skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational

• multimedalist of the Polish Championships

Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in Polish lakes.

diving and many other activities, as well as pho-

and a member of the national team in swim-

I am currently a Padi and ESA instructor, I train

tography, mainly nature.

ming in the years 1998–2003,

diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my passion

• passionate about freediving and swimming.

on to others. I invite all lovers of the underwater world and photography to Beediver (FB) – see you soon.

IRENA KOSOWSKA

Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska,

a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that

diving and first aid instructor, technical diver and

dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where

cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold,

I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving

tight places and invariably from the beginning

adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love

of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing

observing the underwater life up close and I try

the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures

to show other divers how fascinating the under-

”Dive safely” and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field

water, Baltic creatures are.

research of divers for scientific purposes.

our authors

AGATA TUROWICZ-CYBULA

KRZYSZTOF BRUDKOWSKI

ANTHONY LEYDET

MAGDALENA SOKOŁOWSKA

A legal advisor by profession, trying to help, not win

Based in Marseille on the Mediterranean, Antho-

Is a modest woman with many passions, the

at all costs. A fan of warm climates and blue water.

ny Leydet is a french underwater photographer,

greatest of which are sharks.

He started diving in 2018 as a development of his

blogger, and writer, published worldwide in diving

favorite snorkeling. He now plans almost every trip

magazines.

to get his fins wet somewhere. His teenage son

website: www.zesea.com

Damian is his partner in diving. Recently, he has

Insta: @anthonyleydet_uw_photography

been watching the underwater world through the camera's viewfinder, wanting to preserve fleeting memories. He has reached the Deep Diver level in diving and it probably will not end there.

our authors

KURT STORMS

KLAUDYNA BRZOSTOWSKA

ALEKSANDRA ŁYSEK

Belgium Military, underwater cave explorer and active

PADI diving instructor and videographer. She

I started diving when I was 11 years old and knew

technical/ cave/ rebreather diving instructor for IANTD.

spends most of his time in the water documenting

immediately that this is what I want to do with

He started his diving career in Egypt on vacation, and

a fascinating underwater world. She graduated

my life. I managed to combine business with plea-

his passion continues. Kurt is also the founder and CEO

from the Academy of Fine Arts in the field of Fash-

sure and for five years I have been working in the

of Descent Technical Diving.

ion Design in Łódź and Film studies at the Adam

Nurkersi diving center and the shop Szpejownia.

He dives on several CCRs such as AP, SF2, Divesoft Lib-

Mickiewicz University in Poznań, trained as a tailor,

com, and recently I am a divemaster. On week-

erty SM. Kurt is involved in the creation of the document

and with a love of nature and a large dose of adren-

ends, I change my office work to underwater work

about the new salt mine in Belgium (Laplet). This project

aline. She loves everything related to water. Her

– swimming with new divers, shows them what the

was featured in the news on Nationale TV.

diving adventure began with a backpacking trip in

underwater world looks like outside the course.

Privately, Kurt's true passion is deep cave diving. His

2016. During her stay in Thailand she dived for the

It is with great pleasure that I share my experi-

wife (Caroline) shares her husband's passions and also

first time and from then on she got hooked on at

ence, insights and comments with them. I am also

dives in caves. In his free time, he visits Belgian slate

this sport. Spending the last years and most of her

a TECLINE regulator service technician and I am an

mines, and when he is not exploring, he takes his cam-

days under water, teaching and showing the beau-

authorized equipment advisor. On a daily basis,

era to document the dives.

ty of the underwater world in Asia, she believes

I am studying management in the second year.

that diving means unity – unity with own mind, nature and unusual creatures. @waterographyk

HANNA MAMZER

GRZEGORZ MIKOSZA

WOJCIECH KARKUSIEWICZ

Professor at the Department of Sociology, Adam

In the Foundation, he is the commander-in-chief

I resumed diving after a very long break (about

Mickiewicz University. A psychologist, sociologist, and

of the Clean up the World – Poland Action and

25 years) since 2009. Underwater photography is

forensic expert in animal welfare, dog ethology, and

manages the works of strategic projects. Grze-

my passion and most of my trips are dedicated

human-dog relations. She initiated the creation of the

gorz realizes himself creatively in ideas for new

to it. I started with a small Go-pro style webcam.

Inter-species Relations Section in the Polish Sociologi-

campaigns and methods of promotion as part of

Currently, I already have reasonably good equip-

cal Association. Member of the Local Ethics Committee

the Foundation's Clean Up the World – Poland

ment with several lenses. Both photos of large and

for Animal Testing. A two-time scholarship holder of

and Eco-education programs. Arranges strate-

small wrecks and macro photos with their non-ob-

the Fulbright Foundation, British Council, Leibniz Insti-

gies and coordinates the work so that everything

vious details, and while processing photos, finding

tute for Regional Development and Structural Planning

goes according to plan. During off-road activities,

actors in the background is a lot of fun. In 2021,

in Erkner (Germany), Central European University in

he wears yellow gloves and naturally carries kilo-

I decided to make my dreams come true and set

Budapest, European University Institute in Florence,

grams of waste. He often takes the helm of the

up a Diveworld diving center on the island of Gozo

Stefan Batory Foundation, the winner of Polityka maga-

foundation's Facebook and Instagram profile

near Malta.

zine scholarship campaign, and numerous awards and

to talk about what we can do together for our im-

distinctions. Multiple participant of Socrates Erasmus

mediate surroundings. In his free time, he sails,

and Socrates Erasmus Mundus programmes. She lec-

runs and traverses mountain trails. A graduate of

tures in Poland and abroad and has extensive interna-

the Faculty of IT Management and Finance at the

tional cooperation with the United States of America.

University of Economics in Wrocław and the Facul-

She works towards understanding animal needs and

ty of Journalism and Social Communication of the

promoting animal welfare in human social practice. In

University of Lower Silesia in Wrocław. Certified

her academic work, she pays great attention to making

specialist in the field of obtaining EU funds and

interdisciplinary connections between different scien-

communication on the Internet.

tific fields in order to integrate activities and information that promote an understanding-based approach to human-nonhuman relationships. She collaborates with law enforcement agencies in Animal Welfare Act investigations. She also works with non-governmental organisations, local authorities, and homeless animal shelters. She runs a temporary home for anxious, withdrawn, and distrustful dogs.

planet earth

Hanifaru Bay IT TAKES A LOT OF MANTAS TO START A CYCLONE

Text and photos Klaudyna Brzostowska

planet earth

wimming with mantas is one of the most memorable moments of our underwater adventures. Much has been written about what a unique experience it is to spend time with dancing mantas. The truth is that in order to understand exactly what is being talked about, you have to experience an underwater encounter with manta rays yourself. Thanks to the efforts of several organisations, there is one place on Earth where you can experience an encounter with a shoal of mantas in an environmentally sustainable way. The chances in the right season are high. We are talking about Hanifaru Bay belonging to Baa Atoll in the Maldives. It takes many mantas to start a cyclone. Mantas are filter feeders, which means they swim around trying to take in as much plankton as possible. They catch the tiny plankton in their filtering mouths while simultaneously expelling the seawater through their gills. Mantas use different feeding techniques depending on the type, where they feed and whether they feed individually or in a group. When individual mantas feed on plankton, they engage in straight feeding, sur-

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

planet earth

face feeding, flip feeding (or also called barrel rolling), side feeding and bottom feeding. On the other hand, when they group up, the techniques they use are called chain feeding and cyclone feeding. And it is the latter technique that results in the manta cyclone – an impressive phenomenon that happens seasonally in Hanifaru Bay. Cyclone feeding starts small – often with single mantas forming a line during chain feeding. The cyclone begins as more mantas join in and form a loop. Up to 150 feeding mantas may join together to form a large, tight circle around a dense group of plankton. This looks like an underwater cyclone in which the mantas circle together in a counterclockwise direction for about 60 minutes. Cyclone feeding enables the mantas to take in a lot of food with little effort and little energy. By using body power, the reef manta rays feed together, pulling in plankton. Hanifaru Bay is located on the south-eastern edge of Baa Atoll, in the northern Maldives. The area covers 1,2 km2 – the size of a football field. Nowhere else in the world will you find such sizable gatherings of manta rays in one place ready

to feed. Whale sharks are also unusually frequent visitors to the bay, joining the buffet. Since 2012, Baa Atoll has been entered on a UNESCO List and recognised for its extraordinary biodiversity and high concentration of many coral species. The best time to visit the bay is between May and November. Diving is forbidden, only swimming and snorkelling is allowed. The use of cameras without lights or flashes is also permitted. Excursions to the bay are organised and it is necessary to join a group led by certified guides. Without a doubt – this is an experience that will be remembered for a long time. For manta lovers – I recommend visiting the Manta Trust. On their website you can find a lot of interesting content about mantas precisely, educational material and interesting facts. Also, you can upload a photo of the mantas you met to their database – photo ID allows to monitor these animals and thus protect them. In addition, you can adopt a manta ray – which might turn out to be a nice gift for a beloved buddy.

Rehasport - motor medicine

MAKE AN APPOINTMENT

ONLINE Specialty or name City

Find injury Select the body part in which you feel pain.

www.rehasport.pl PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

travels

GOZO

I CHOOSE YOU! Text and photos Wojciech Karkusiewicz

MALTA, GOZO AND COMINO ARE DEFINITELY AMONG THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA, WITH A RICH HISTORY THAT IS EVIDENT ANYWHERE YOU GO, FROM NEOLITHIC TIMES TO THE PRESENT DAY.

bove all, the history of the archipelago is visible in neolithic structures dating back to approx. 3500 years B.C. and, secondly, in saltpans used until today, which will

But let’s get back to Gozo and diving. This small island,

never allow you to get bored when visiting the island. This

about 15 km long and 7 km wide, offers some extraordinary

can be done in a number of ways, starting from a regular bus,

dive sites.

through individual, organized trips with small cars and tuk-

I have moved to Gozo with my family quite recently. We are

tuks or by bike. Driving through the island is a fun experience

opening the Diveworld diving base in Marsalforn – a tourist

and an adventure, while the mountainous shape of the island

destination and the largest accommodation base. Gozo is Mal-

guarantees spectacular views at every turn.

ta’s smaller sister, but it has much to offer. Sometimes Gozo is

travels

referred to as a quiet village. We have spectacular views and

Sea for a small fee out to the open sea to watch the cliffs from

megalithic ruins of Ġgantija in Xaghra. The Citadel towers over

the water.

Victoria, the capital of Gozo (also known as Rabat), with its mas-

Let me just add that a trip to Comino is a fantastic idea.

sive fortifications. It offers a beautiful view over the entire Gozo.

Unfortunately, this paradise island is crowded in the summer,

The largest, red-sanded beach in Gozo, Ramla Bay, where you

but if you do not mind that, you can spend a nice day there or

can relax and take a swim in the sea, and watch the sunset

at least a couple of hours. It features a marvelous blue lagoon,

from the Tal-Mixta cave, provides an unforgettable experience.

you can enjoy a sandy beach and crystal clear water.

What will surely catch your attention is that there is a church

One could write about Gozo endlessly, but I prefer you

in every village in Gozo (all worth seeing, as they have beautiful

to come and see for yourself why we decided to live and

interiors), surrounded by bars with delicious food – also highly

work here.

recommended. The community of Xewkija is home to the basilica of St. Johannes der Taufer with allegedly the third biggest dome in the world. One should of course also mention the Ta Pinu basilica as a place of Marian devotion. Saltpans are spread throughout the island, but most of them are in the north. They are used to source salt from sea water – and you can even buy yourself a bag of this salt. Wied il-Gharsi is a paradise for people seeking tranquility. This secluded fiord, as one could call it, attracts with the possibility to swim among unearthly views, compensating for any missing infrastructure. And Ta Cenc cliffs are perfect for viewing sunsets which, you can believe me, are definitely worth it! Dwejra – a remnant of the Azur Window, Inland Sea and Blue Hole. Boats can take you for a short trip on the Inland

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

We have the most interesting dive

The next diving chapter is wreck

sites here. When the Azur Window

diving and also here we have a lot

collapsed, it created several inter-

to be proud of, as in the area of Mal-

esting rock formations that you can

ta and Gozo there are several wrecks

swim through. It is an attraction both

sunken especially for divers and

for beginner divers and for those

some historical ones, including ORP

who want to take a deeper dive. The

Kujawiak at about 100 m and HMS

Dwejra region, also known as the

MAORI at 14 m. We have three wrecks

Blue Hole, offers a few caverns with

off Gozo, all of which are accessible

depths ranging from 12 to 30 m. You

from a single site – the Wreck Dive

could basically spend 3–4 diving days

Site – with a comfortable car park and

here, each time diving somewhere

access to water. In Malta, right next

else. Of course, it all depends on the

to the ferry harbor in Ċirkewwa, we

diver’s skills and certifications, and

have two wrecks: the patrol boat P29

recreational divers do about 4 dives

and the tow boat Rozi, while south

in a week here.

off Malta, the huge tanker Um El Fa-

We also have caves that are safe to swim inside, the largest being the

roud. All the wrecks lie at the depth of some 40 m.

Billinghurst Cave, about 130 m long,

One can say that diving near the

with a spectacular air chamber at its

third island of the archipelago, called

end, which is about 50 m wide and

Comino, is a separate story. It offers

a few meters high. The view is as-

the patrol boat P31, lying pictur-

tonishing, especially when there is

esquely on the sand at about 18 m

someone already in the dome, illu-

and some minor, beautifully located

minating it. On your way back, you

caves and rock formations.

swim through the dark part of the

There are tuna farms around

cave and you cannot be deceived

Malta and Gozo, with nets reaching

seeing the entrance lighted up by

up to 40 m of depth, where for a so-

the sun. You need to monitor your

called small fee you can dive with

depth to slip through the upper part

large tuna fish.

of the entrance and ascend.

podróże

Personally, I do not recommend

Not far from the Billinghurst

it, but if you are OK with meeting

Cave, we have another large cave

a 2-meter tuna in captivity face

with an air chamber and an addi-

to face, then why not…

tional opening in the wall, letting in

In my opinion, Malta and Gozo are

a small amount of light, but the main

the most beautiful sites in Europe

source of light here is the light com-

due to their incredible diversity. No

ing from the huge entrance, causing

more than 3 hour’s flight away, con-

a blue glow in the entire chamber

nections from almost every airport

and the water around us. It is a spec-

in Poland (and Europe) even three

tacular show!

times a week, good weather and

In the northern part of the island,

warm sea water guaranteed. Maltese

there are a few more caves and

and Mediterranean cuisine with sea-

rock formations, such as the Dou-

food and local

ble Arch or Triple Arch, Bottle Neck

wine at affordable prices… This

Cave, Shrims Cave and many more.

should suffice for a comfortable va-

Most of them are available for OWD

cation or to spend some time training

divers, while some require appropri-

in warm water with visibility reaching

ate equipment and decompression

up to the horizon.

gases.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

travels

Photo Aleksandra Łysek

ALL AROUND

MALTA IN WEEK Text Aleksandra Łysek

Triton Fountain, Valletta

his island, located in the Mediter-

of us, smarter with yesterday’s experi-

ranean, is the perfect place both

ences and craving for more, reported

for those who are looking for un-

fully ready to dive in the early morning

derwater thrills, as well as those who

LATELY, TOGETHER WITH MY DIVER FRIENDS, IHAD THE PLEASURE OF VISITING MALTA, ONE OF THE MOST ATTRACTIVE DIVE SITES IN EUROPE YET AGAIN.

value onshore adventures more.

hours. The most popular form of diving in

For a week we’ve been staying at St.

Malta are shore dives, that is why every

Paul’s Bay, where our dive experience

day the center’s cars took as to another

was provided by the Polish diving cen-

dive site and since the weather was on

ter Dive On Malta. Wonderful people,

our side, we managed to complete all

when put together with picturesque

our diving plans.

views, astonishing weather and incred-

One cannot omit the abundance

ible underwater sights ensured that

offered by the waters around Malta,

the (really) early morning wake up calls

which ensures satisfaction for all div-

we’ve had everyday did not cause any

ers, both newbie enthusiast and the

of us any trouble. Each and every one

seasoned veterans :)

travels

WHAT WOULD BE MY TOP PICKS FOR DIVING HERE? TUG BOAT 2 This wreck lies at a depth of 20 m. During a storm, it was dragged on the seabed over a distance of some 50 m and driven into the reef. More and more sea creates inhabit the wreck every year. HMS MAORI Photo Zbigniew Aftański

A wreck that dates back to the times of WW2, it was sunk during a German bombing raid in 1942 at Valetta. The wreck lies at some 20 meters, on a sandy seabed. A large number of holes and penetrations grants it an exceptional feel. You can dive this wreck all year long, as it lies in a small cove and is protected against wind. Unfortunately, numerous storms have caused its structure to become less and less stable, that is why wreck penetration is not recommended in this case.

Photo Sebastian Głowacki

P29 One of the wrecks at Cirkewwa, sunk especially for tourists. The maximum depth on this wreck is 32 m, it is located some 5 minutes away from the shore. What immediately catches your eye is the magnificent mast. All dangerous items were removed from this wreck, so it’s easy and safe for penetration. Weather needs to smile down on you in order for you to be able to see it. During windy days, descending into the water can be very tricky. ROZI

Photo Zbigniew Aftański

This is the second wreck at the Cirkewwa shore. Maximum depth on this wreck is 32 m. Rozi lies closer to the end of the cape, therefore you have much more chances of seeing the currents between Malta and Comino manifesting there. They impact the wildlife inhabiting the wreck, as even though Rozi sank earlier than P29, mentioned before, there is less growth on it, with much more animals. Photo Anna Brojewska Zdjęcie

Entrance to Rozi and P29 Photo Aleksandra Łysek PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

travels

GWAR LAPSI It’s a picturesque small village on the southern coast of Malta. Diving here will not take you deeper than 22 m. This place is famous for its reefs and beautiful caves, available for divers at various training levels. A lot of fish, jellyfish, octopi and even lobsters await you under the water here. But before seeing all this, you have to tackle the magical stairs challenge. Descent to Lapsi Photo Aleksandra Łysek

Photo Sebastian Głowacki

UM EL FAROUD This is Malta’s absolute “must see”! This site is extremely popular with tourists also because of the Blue Grotto. At 10 in the morning this place is already swarming with tourists and it’s really hard to find a parking spot, so I recommend seeing Faroud early in the morning. During repair works at a shipyard, the tanker was damaged by a gas explo-

Photo Sebastian Głowacki

sion. It was sunk off the coast of Malta as an artificial reef. Diving here is exquisite, but not always that simple...there are often strong currents here, making your trip to the wreck more difficult. The wreck is broken in half and lies at a depth of between 30 and 35 m. As a diver, I fell in love with Malta. I recommend the Maltese waters to anyone, along with Dive On Malta – you don’t have to worry about anything with them, they’ve got you covered :) And out of the water, on land...well? Every tourist guidebook will give you tons of information about a multitude of places worth seeing when on Malta. I’ve spent most of my time there diving and even if I was out of the water, a wetsuit is not exactly the proper attire for sightseeing  I can surely say that whoPhoto Zbigniew Aftański

Nurkowania rekreacyjne i techniczne z brzegu i z łodzi , wokół 3 wysp maltańskich

Kursy nurkowe PADI, SSI, TDI

+356 7706 2838, +356 2750 9592, +48 604 585 389 diveonmalta

20POLSKIE CENTRUM NURKOWE NA MALCIE

office@diveonmalta.com

www.diveonmalta.com

transport to move around the entire island and, what’s important, they have comfortable and air-conditioned buses :) The Tritons’ Fountain is one of the characteristic spots in Malta’s capital, located just outside of the city walls, close to the bus stops. On hot days, this place will provide much-needed refreshment.

ever visits Malta should go and see their capital, Valetta. You can use public

POTRZEBUJESZ KUPUJESZ NURKUJESZ

Upper Barrakka Gardens is somewhere you should go, regardless of the season. A flood of green and colorful flowers, combined with a breath-taking view, provide the perfect background for cannon fire and the entire accompanying ceremony. You should also visit this place because of a Polish element in its history. This is where the plate commemorating the Polish navy ship ORP Kujawiak is located. For all those who still find time and the energy for additional sightseeing when out of the water, I recommend seeing Malta’s old capital – Mdina, which is located in the central part of the island. This medieval city, with its narrow streets, located on the top of a mounting, offers an astonishing vista of the entire island. Malta is wonderful and unpredictable... At times, this place looks like this... While at others like this... But it’s always absolutely worth it! Sources: https://diveonmalta.com/ Tablica pamiątkowa ORP Kujawiak Photo Aleksandra Łysek

home-page/

Upper Barrakka Gardens, Valletta Photo Aleksandra Łysek

ładnie i funkcjonalnie dla nurków PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

events

DIVING TALKS 2022 We could mention that the Hotel bar ran out of stock last year and other episodes, but we prefer not to. Instead, we invite the readers to join us this year and see by yourselves. Photos www.divingtalks.com/2021-photos/

iving talks is an international event promoting and sharing knowledge on the underwater environment. It will have its second edition in Portugal,

October 7 to 9, and bring to Portugal one more time

the world's leading explorers, scientists, researcher and divers, sharing their best of best recent achievements. The strength of this show that last year was unanimously considered to be "the best diving event in 2021" is a result of three factors: 1. The Speakers and their talks: The Portugues show attracts incredible people to talk about their underwater experiences and challenges the traditional setup of these events, promoting new formats – like debates – about critical topics for the diving community. This year's examples are the debate about the investigation in diving physiology that will join Dr Alessandro Marroni, Dr Oscar Camacho and Dr Simon Mitchell, three of the most reputed doctors in hyperbaric medicine and physiology investigators and the PADI, SDI and SSI discussion about the future of teaching in diving with these three organizations sending Troia their most respected representatives. 2. Exhibition and trials: The show is all-around the supporting brands. The concept promotes the brands' interaction with their clients and the audience of the Diving talks. There are opportunities to engage strongly with interested divers, and they can even try the equipment underwater. In this edition, attendees can test dive with scooters, rebreathers, etc.

events

3. The Venue: The physical setup promotes networking, sharing experiences, discussing topics and having lots of fun during the weekend. We could mention that the Hotel bar ran out of stock last year and other episodes, but we prefer not to. Instead, we invite the readers to join us this year and see by yourselves. Someone recently wrapped it all, explaining why you must attend the show with these words: "I went to the in-

PORTUGAL 2022 INTERNATIONAL DIVING SHOW 7-9 OCTOBER

augural event in 2021 and truly enjoyed it for a nice change. But if I have to sum it up, it was the blend of interesting presentations, a pleasant and relaxed ambience, and the venue was nice and comfortable. That we were treated some really good food also scored a lot of points." No doubt the Troia Peninsula scores a lot of points, too. How often do you have the opportunity to do what you like the most – go diving – without lots of negotiation with your loved ones? Diving talks is also known as the diving show for non-divers because of everything around it. For you coming to Portugal might be a diving-related trip. For those coming with you, it will be simply a leisure trip they want to re-edit in the show's next edition.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

sponsored article

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If you have never dived in Cyprus, you need to book this unbelievable deal! Diving in Cyprus offers some of the best diving in the world in addition to the epic Zenobia wreck we have many other dive sites offering unique cavern dives, stunning wall dives & scenic turtle safaris! This is a limited time offer so don’t delay book your Cyprus dive adventure today with the premier scuba diving centre in Cyprus!

HERE IS A BIT OF INFO ABOUT DIVE STOP Established in 2018, DIVE STOP are an English owned dive centre, offering our customers friendly personal service with some great banter in our relaxed diving centre. My dive centre is renowned as one of the best centres in Cyprus I have been diving & working in Cyprus for over 20 years and have exceptional local knowledge I hand pick my team to ensure that you receive the best possible service and diving. NOT TAKE MY WORD FOR SAYING WE ARE THE BEST.

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www.divestopcyprus.com PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

travels

AQABA IN JORDAN

THE KINGDOM OF WRECKS FOR ALL! Text and photos Anthony Leydet Translation Karolina Pierścieniak

travels

Less well-known than neighbouring Egypt - the world's diving mecca, Jordan has no more than thirty kilometres of coastline with a view of the Red Sea and the city of Aqaba, located on the southern edge of the country. Thanks to the strong will of the government and under the aegis of King Abdullah II, Jordan managed to increase its attractiveness for divers from all over the world.

qaba will allow you to do some amazing dives, starting

that Egypt attracts most divers, the government has decided

from the most famous place, the world's only under-

to strengthen the diving sector. King Abdullah II is an avid diver

water military museum! However, Aqaba offers a lot

and has greatly contributed to the success of this project. The

more and will be an important place on the map during your

vast majority of the Aqaba seabed, about seven kilometres

stay in Jordan.

long, has been classified as a marine reserve for several years.

Squeezed between Saudi Arabia in the south and Israel in the west, Aqaba offers Jordan a tiny window into the Red Sea.

UNDERWATER WAR SCENE AT THE UNIQUE MUSEUM IN

At the end of the 160-kilometre Gulf of Aqaba, which separates

THE WORLD!

Sinai from the Arabian Peninsula, lies one of the ends of the

For several decades, Aqaba has been known as a wreck dive

Red Sea. This quiet seaside resort is focused on water sports

site. in 1999, The Royal Marine Conservation Society of Jordan

and, in particular, diving. However, taking into consideration

(JREDS) decided to create an artificial reef by sinking the fa-

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

travels

mous M42 Duster, which is located on a sandy shoal at a depth

water expedition. Jordan, which has not been involved in any

of 5 m near the shore and attracts both snorkelling enthusiasts

armed conflict since 1973, is a stable and friendly country. No

and divers. In 2019, the most surprising underwater museum

wonder there are more tanks under the surface of the water

was created, designed especially for lovers of military ma-

than on land!

chines. The Military Underwater Museum, the only one of its

kind in the world, consists of 21 military aircraft set on a gently

WORLD-CLASS WRECKS

descending sandy bottom in tactical combat formation, which

Other spectacular wrecks were also created in the waters of

is an exciting underwater adventure. At a depth of 6 to 28

Aqaba. Sticking to the military theme, let's start with the Lock-

meters, it is easy to get caught up in the game and get the

heed C-130 Hercules aircraft, belonging to the Royal Jordanian

impression that you are in the middle of a war scene. Heli-

Air Force, sunk in 2017 at a depth of 17 m. Originally undam-

copters, anti-aircraft guns, tanks, ambulances, reconnaissance

aged, it was smashed by a strong storm, which gave it a more

vehicles, transporters, Jeeps – machines of various origins and

dramatic appearance, we get the impression that it crashed

from different eras follow one another in front of astonished

into the sea.

divers. It's an unusual place. In order to appreciate the work

In August 2019, a massive passenger plane was sunk to cre-

put into creating the museum, at least two dives are needed,

ate a new, unusual dive site. The 54-metre-long Lockheed TriS-

because the area is extensive. In the middle of machines it is

tar is placed on the sandy bottom at a depth of 15 to 28 metres

fun to come across numerous marine species that come here

and is easily accessible to divers. The door was dismantled, as

to find shelter. A baloonfish hides under a metal door, and

was the middle row of seats. It is possible to visit any corner

a shoal of catfish roams between two tanks. Two jeeps located

of the aircraft, e.g. the cockpit, or the air inlet exit at the rear

on a sandy platform will be a pleasant ending to your under-

of the aircraft.

travels

... all these wrecks have been cleaned and disinfected, and the places of their assembly have been carefully designed so that the interference with the natural environment is as small as possible.

Referring to a more classic wreck, one of the most famous in Aqaba is the Lebanese cargo ship Cedar Pride. Considered one of the most beautiful wrecks in the Red Sea, it was deliberately sunk in 1985 at the request of King Abdullah II. This 74-metre cargo ship arrived in Aqaba in 1982 and was partially destroyed by a violent fire in August of the same year. After she lay abandoned in the harbour, the idea of creating a wreck, the thing that had not been seen before in Jordan, was born. Lying on the port side at a depth of 27 m at the deepest point of the wreck, like most places in Aqaba, it is available to divers at all levels of advancement. Nowadays it is a very well colonised, a colourful wreck with soft corals, many hard corals and a lot of marine life. It is also possible to visit the interior of the wreck completely safely. It should be noted that all these wrecks have been cleaned and disinfected, and the places of their assembly have been carefully designed so that the interference with the natural environment is as small as possible. you can perform very beautiful dives in coral gardens, where WRECKS, BUT ALSO BEAUTIFUL CORAL GARDENS

each massif is abundantly populated by many species. Under-

Aqaba is a place where diving focuses on wrecks, although it

water photographers are delighted with the easy access from

is available for divers of all levels. Let us not forget, however,

the shore and the depth that allows for stress-free diving. The

that we are located on the Red Sea, which is characterised by

house reef of the Deep Blue dive centre, near the Tala Bay

extraordinary biodiversity and magnificent coral reefs. Even

beach south of Aqaba, is matched by some house reefs in

if the reefs are less developed than in Egypt, and the Jordan

countries such as Indonesia and the Philippines, offering an

coast, due to its size, does not offer the same opportunities,

incredible array of creatures. Anglerfish, morays, nudibranch,

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

travels

GOOD TO KNOW: Getting there: travel to Amman airport or directly to Aqaba airport. The Jordan Pass is very advantageous (include visa and entrance to most visited touristic attractions) https://www.jordanpass.jo/ When to go: diving is good all year long, but the best period is from april to november. Be careful of the very warm summer. Stay at: Marina Plaza Hotel, Grand Tala Bay Resort, Lacosta Hotel, Hilton Hotel Dive with: Deep Blue Dive Center Aqaba More info: https://www.deepbluedivecenter.com/ Diving details: currents are very low in Aqaba, Deep Blue Dive is a PADI center. Hyperbaric chamber location: located at the government hospital in Aqaba Water temp / exposure protection: 21°C–28°C, in summer, the sun is very intense and hot Water visibility: good to very good visibility 30 m+ Getting around: car rental, walking, bikes, scooters, boat. Taxi is easy to move in Aqaba, but I’s possible to walk too especially in the center. Don’t miss: visit of the Aqaba Castle Topside: kitesurfing, snorkeling, eat seafood at Captain’s restaurant Top Tip: allow at least 3 or 4 days to enjoy Aqaba and its beautiful dives. Drones are forbidden. UK Electric plugs

shrimp, clownfish and boxfish are just a small sample of what

WHAT TO DO IN JORDAN OUTSIDE AQABA?

can be found beneath the surface. The presence of several

To explore everything Jordan has to offer tourists, both cultur-

pontoons allows you to spend successful moments of pho-

ally, naturally and archaeologically, you would need to spend

tographing, playing with lights and tracking hidden species!

a few weeks... Amman – the capital, a trip to the Dead Sea,

The obligatory item on the agenda is the power plant,

countless archaeological sites and museums. Speaking of two

which is the only real drop in land in Jordan! The wall begins

places you can't miss, there's undoubtedly Petra and the Wadi

at a height of about 15 m and sinks into the abyss. A little high-

Rum desert are in the lead. These two sites, which are on the

er there is a magnificent coral garden, which leads us almost

UNESCO World Heritage List, are known all over the world.

to the edge, with plenty of corals, we can admire the yellow of lettuce corals!

Starting with Petra, Jordan's main tourist attraction. It is an amazing Nabataean city, founded almost three millennia ago,

Aqaba is often considered a place where tourists can try

whose most famous monument is Al Khazneh (treasure). It

a single dive, many of them are later disappointed that they

is steeped in history, and reaching the Siq outlet (the canyon

have not planned more time to fully enjoy the seabed of Aqaba,

leading to the city of Petra hidden in the mountains), where

which is a real place to dive, and not just an addition on the

this giant sculpture appears in the rock, provides incredible

map of underwater adventures!

emotions that will remain forever in your memory. The city is

not limited to this building, it is very extensive and requires at least one day of sightseeing. Further south lies the Wadi Rum desert. If the name doesn't sound familiar, then you've certainly seen its photos, because it's a place where many films were shot: Indiana Jones, Lawrence of Arabia, Life on Mars, Star Wars and recently Dune! This place is beautiful and rare, as far as the eye can see, there are canyons, arches, cliffs and vast stretches of sand. Breathtaking sunsets... Wadi Rum is also a great place to watch the sky at night, in total darkness. Alone, in a couple or with a family, Jordan is a cosy and truly exotic place, which allows you to combine the pleasure of diving with the discovery of a multinational culture... www.zesea.com Instagram: @anthonyleydet_uw_photography

www.deepbluedivecenter.com

sponsored article

LANZAROTE

The volcanic island of Lanzarote is completely different from other Canary Islands. As you drive the length and breadth of this area of land, you will admire the landscape unspoilt by human hands. The absence of high voltage power lines, the lack of multi-coloured advertisements, the absence of tall buildings subconsciously calms our overstimulated brains.

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But what is it like underwater? What does diving in this part of the Atlantic Ocean look like? The hot lava in contact with the ocean has created a unique bottom. In some places you can see how the lava has advanced. Uplifts, grottos, walls, and further down the sand, where I think, one is always trying to spot some angelsharks or stingrays. In smaller holes hide sizable moray eels, crabs, and other nocturnal animals. A trained eye may even spot some seahorses, spider crabs, snails, and shrimps. The sand can be black, grey or white. There are plenty of lizardfish, flounder, and other demersal fish. Every now and then we also encounter small cuttlefish that camouflage themselves in the surrounding environment.

Are there wrecks here? Is it worth diving at the Museo Atlantico? It is possible to come across two shipwrecks, an angel shark, a marbled electric ray, a stingray, and a grouper in one dive. Just sail the zodiac out of Puerto del Carmen and after a 5-minute swim there is a dive spot with wrecks. There are 2 of them lying here. The former ship, resting at 20 m depth, it is crooked and lying on its side. The other wreck, or rather its larger and smaller fragments, are scattered over a larger area of the bottom, at 40 m depth. The Museo Atlantico is part of the Cabildo de Lanzarote's Centre for Art, Culture and Tourism. It was created to preserve nature and experience the unique beauty of the island's landscape. The author of the sculptures is Jason de Caires Taylor. The sculptures and installations are located on the sand over an area of 2,500 m2. The opening for divers took place in January 2017. It is worth mentioning that it is eco-friendly and pH-neutral cement was used to build the installations. The night dives here are amazing. There are even more animals, many of them are on the hunt. In the light of torches, you can witness spectacular scenes such as a golden moray eel catching and devouring a cuttlefish. You will encounter slipper lobsters, 20 cm lumpfish, octopuses, stingrays, crabs, sea urchins, etc. Each time after successful dives we return to our base – Bonito Diving Lanzarote – to rinse and hang up our equipment, quench our thirst, fill in our logbooks and chat. Usually, we ask for restaurant recommendations, and the cuisine in Lanzarote is so to die for! The options are numerous. From seafood, fish, and burgers to vegetarian and vegan cuisine. There's something for everyone. The local starter is potatoes served with red and green sauces, and you can order local wine with dinner.

www.bonitodiving.com office@bonitodiving.com PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

travels

Bali

BEFORE YOU DIVE

Text Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz Photos Adrian Juriewicz 34

travels

Three years ago, before the Covid-19 pandemic broke out all over the world for good, and we were forced to leave Bali on the last plane after a six-month stay in this extraordinary place, I asked a shaman, a healer from under a waterfall: Does he not fear the vision of closing Indonesia to tourists and living in isolation?

he shaman replied in his calm voice, “Now is the time to rest and purify Bali of the energy that has upset the balance of this place. Tourists come from all over the world,

visit temples and constantly ask for money, success, good health,

love, but give nothing in return, do not thank and do not feel gratitude... Now is the time for everything to balance out, for Bali to reach a balance, for nature to strengthen itself. It will be a difficult time for people, but not for nature or animals". Finally, he added: "Good luck, good luck, good luck". Today we returned to Bali on one of the first planes, after the opening of Indonesia to tourists. After almost three years, I stood before the same shaman from under the waterfall and asked him how the time of isolation caused by the pandemic was for Bali and its inhabitants? The shaman hugged me warmly, his eyes started glowing at the sight of me. He replied in the same calm voice that I remembered – "The children returned to their parents in the country because they ran out of money and had nothing to live for in the city. The family ties were tightened, the land yielded crops and they had something to eat. People helped each other and they continue to help each other, sharing what they have even though they have little.... Bali has cleared, the energy has changed, now there's a balance. Everything returned to its place, to the beginning, to its roots...’’ I'm walking on the shore of the ocean, and the foamy waves wash my bare feet. After 19 hours of travel we landed at the airport in Denpasar, we returned to Bali. Everything seems to be the same as the last time we saw this place: still and humid air, trees growing on the beach, dogs running on sand and enjoying life in their own beautiful way, a coffee shop with my favourite coffee... but it is somehow different. There are no tourists, or rather there are few of them, there are no traffic

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

travels

jams on the roads, most shops and restaurants are closed. Ev-

a tropical garden, the air temperature exceeds 28°C, and the

ery time another plane lands at Denpasar Bali airport, it comes

humidity is 80 %. One more corner and I see bright streaks

to life. It awakens from post covid's lethargy, but for a long time

of light against the orange sky. The orange glow embraces

it will remain as I see it now. We are going to dinner at a restau-

everything within its reach. A small group of children is playing

rant located on the beach in Sanur. It's late, and the moon

on the shore of the ocean. Someone has placed the camera on

and our mobiles' torches light the way. Somewhere between

a tripod and immortalises this extraordinary moment. After

the ocean and a narrow sidewalk made of grey cubes, on the

breakfast, we go to Ubud, which is especially loved by artists.

sand, in the moonlight, we see two large shadows. These are

It takes one hour to get from Sanur to the place we go. The

two green turtles, a species threatened with extinction. The

road abounds in beautiful views that gain more and more

females came ashore to lay their eggs. They use their wide

charm with every kilometer covered. We stop at a parking

paws to bury the eggs in the sand. We watched this unusual

lot next to Monkey Forest located in the center of Ubud. We

event for a while so as not to disturb this intimate act. For a mo-

enter the rainforest through an underground tunnel carved

ment I could not believe what I see, that in the place where so

in the rock, to which a wooden pier and stone stairs lead.

much is happening since morning (local residents and tourists

On the other side of the tunnel, there is a wonderful green

are walking their dogs, running, doing yoga, etc.) there is such

world, inhabited by 1,049 macaques forming 6 gangs. These

a natural phenomenon... A great amazement and emotion

unique creatures live here for 12.5 hours and enjoy freedom.

were expressed on my face...

The rainforest is their home, but also a very important and

The next day, I wake up before dawn. The sounds of birds

sacred place for the Balinese. The Monkey Forest, also called

and geckos come from the beautiful garden in which our hotel

a sanctuary, creates a kind of bridge and harmony between

is located. I open the door and invite a new day inside with

humans and animals. The Balinese believe that macaques

all its intensity of colors, smells and sounds. I go to a nar-

are the embodiment of good and bad powers and should

row beach, made of stones, a path that leads me through

be treated with respect. You can't scare them, you can't feed

travels

When the monkey jumps on our head or back, we have to wait politely for it to jump off.

them, you can't look them in the eye, you can't chase them away, you can't touch them. When the monkey jumps on our head or back, we have to wait politely for it to jump off. Rapid movements and shouts can only upset a macaque, which in turn can result in a scratch or worse, a bite. Monkeys in the Monkey Forest are regularly vaccinated and tested, but this does not change the fact that the bite is very painful and ends with a visit to a medical point. The Monkey Forest is a very mysterious and beautiful place, and these feelings are amplified by bright light, penetrating the tree crowns, and by the sounds of animals. There are three Hindu temples in the Monkey Forest: Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal Temple (alias main), Pura Holy Beji Temple (purification) and Pura Prajapati (cremation). There is a cemetery near the latter. There are many mysterious figures in the rainforest, depicting deities and animals. We will also find small pools with water, which monkeys use to cool down. A unique attraction of this place is also the dragon bridge, hidden among the trees. It owes its name to two dragons which squirm and form railings of stairs. It is also a very grateful subject for photography. Early morning is the time to feed macaques, which get food three times a day. Their diet consists of sweet potatoes, coconuts, corn, cucumbers and bananas. Once tourists could buy fruit before entering the forest and feed with them the macaques. However, it had a bad impact on their weight, they became thicker and lazy, so feeding the animals was forbidden. Today, these playful creatures are not afraid of people. Most often they steal from people water, glasses and whatever catches their eye at the very moment. Staff in the forest is responsible for both animal and human safety. At the end of the visit in the rainforest we take a selfie with a macaque ;-) In Ubud you can spend a few days and always something will delight you, surprise you and attract your attention, e.g. Pura Sarawati temple with ponds filled with pink lotuses, which

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you enter straight from the street. A market with stalls hidden in a network of narrow alleys, which are teeming with colourful sarongs, wicker baskets, incense sticks, oils of various kinds, various stands and wooden figures... Bazaars always attract tourists who want to buy something or just watch. In such places, people engage in long conversations not only about the price, which is always worth negotiating, but also about life, weather and the world. After a visit to the market, in the restaurant with cocos and in the temple with water lilies, it was time for the Tegallalngan rice terraces, which are about 15 minutes away from the centre of Ubut by car. You cannot miss them, because everywhere there is a tourist attraction, there are also stands with souvenirs and cafes visible from a distance. Our bus stops on the road in front of one of these stalls, where we get off and head towards the rice terraces. We are very fortunate because cascading terraces are covered with blades of rice and create beautiful lush, green carpets. During the harvest three to four times a year, the landscape changes and does not resemble the one that now stretches before our eyes. We descend the stone stairs, which after a while turn into high steps made of beaten earth and the clay. We stop at the moment when the

travels

inscription Bali swing appears on our way, a swing that takes

A temple with a waterfall hidden in the rainforest is one

us so high up that we feel like we're flying and touching the

of my favourite places in Bali. Only a few tourists know about

sky with our feet. One of the attractions that is definitely worth

its existence, which is why it is not as trampled and commer-

visiting when you are in Tegallangan.

cialised as most temples in tourist guides. We discovered this

Bali smells of rice, the cooked one, left in the air, in the

place by accident, three years ago, when we were living in

sun and rain. Everywhere: in taxis, cars, buses, in front of the

Bali. We got lost riding a scooter, got lost in rice paddies, and

entrance to the houses, at the chapels in the main street or

the navigation on the phone stopped working. After a dozen

in the store, we will come across small, square baskets of

or so minutes of wandering aimlessly, we saw a parking lot

thanksgiving. Into green baskets made of palm leaves, follow-

and a faded banner hanging on a tree informing that there is

ers of Balinese Hinduism (the dominant religion in Bali) put

a temple and a waterfall in this place. We parked the scooter

rice, flowers, coins, candies, cigarettes and cookies, and then

and took the sandy road leading to a small souvenir shop.

light incense and send their intentions, requests high to the

We stopped in front of him, enchanted by beautiful wooden

gods. Thanksgiving baskets accompany drivers and taxi pas-

figures depicting images of deities and animals. In a glass,

sengers throughout the day. They are located on dashboards,

slightly dusty case, bracelets and necklaces made of natural

spreading their unique fragrance, which only grows stronger

stones were laid. Wayan, who is the “Leader of the Ceremony”,

with each subsequent hour.

runs the shop with his wife, and according to the inhabitants

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The guide brought us to a place that I can compare to a botanical garden. There are many species of trees, shrubs, flowers and plants such as papaya, vanilla, cocoa tree, coffee, cinnamon tree or ginger.

through individual stations. The place is magical, green with an intense colour of moss growing over rocks. The fine rain bounces off the large leaves of the trees and falls noiselessly to the ground. We enter under the waterfall wearing bathing suits and wrapped in sarongs, the water is icy, fantastically refreshing... finally, after leaving the waterfall, we sit crosslegged wet and happy in a in a specially designed place, and Wayan sprinkles us with water from a holy source, sticks rice to our foreheads and gives everyone a few grains to eat. After a visit to the waterfall, we go for a delicious coffee. The guide

of Bali, he was chosen and anointed by God to perform cer-

brought us to a place that I can compare to a botanical garden.

emonies and help people. That day, Wayan and I went to the

There are many species of trees, shrubs, flowers and plants

temple with a waterfall. We tied sarongs on our hips, and in

such as papaya, vanilla, cocoa tree, coffee, cinnamon tree or

our hands we held thank-you baskets prepared for us by his

ginger. The place is phenomenal, it smells of soil, flowers and

wife. Today we are on the same road with a group of won-

coffee. We walk through narrow alleys paved with small peb-

derful people, friends who came with us to Bali. Before we

bles. We watch, touch and taste the fruit that we pick right out

reach the waterfall, we climb a dozen or so high stone stairs.

of the trees. We stop before a small canopy, where a woman

We stop along the way, in different places, with spring water

in the prime of her life stirs the coffee beans with a metal

flowing straight out of the rocks. Together with the thanksgiv-

spoon in a cast-iron frying pan on a small furnace. The air is

ing baskets, we offer our intentions and express our gratitude

filled with the aroma of freshly roasted beans, which are later

for this extraordinary, shared experience. We light incense

crushed in a special vessel resembling a mortar. It is served

and meditate, we try to imitate Wayan, who guides us in focus

from an drip coffee maker and has a rather sour taste. Kopi

Luwak is one of the most expensive coffees in the world, and it is obtained in a rather unusual way. First, animals called civets (the local name is luwak) are fed with coffee beans, which subsequently are subject to digestive processes in the animals' digestive system, and then excreted in the faeces as a whole. The beans are carefully excavated from the faeces, dried, roasted and ground, and then brewed and served in beautiful cups. Putu works in a café overlooking a garden belonging to a plantation. He tells us where we can sit, relax and order coffee. He comes up to us after a while and asks if we want to place an order, and then he adds – "You Europeans have a cappuccino, and we have a cacuchino, I invite you to tasting". On site, you can try coffee kopi luwak, several kinds of tea and cocoa. Drinks are served in small glasses, carefully described. to be continued

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DAHAB „HEALTH RESORT” viewed a little differently

Text and photosKrzysztof Brudkowski

a negative impact on the colour and atmosphere of the city

We can read many slogans that tell us about diving in Egypt’s Dahab, located on the Sinai Peninsula. They usually describe the dive spots there as magical, iconic or famous.

known to us from earlier trips? We decided to check it out, hoping to return to the known places and people, and to escape, at least for a while, from the overwhelming news of our neighbours' tragedy in Ukraine. We made our last trips to Dahab long before the pandemic. At that time, the unique atmosphere of the city and the diving sites we visited made a very positive impression on us. Since

then, expeditions to other regions of Egypt, the Canary Islands s for the town itself, we learn from the Internet that

or the Dominican Republic have provided us with many new

it used to be a Bedouin village, but today it is a cosy

experiences. Before leaving, we wondered if now the magic of

resort or a small tourist town. However, do those en-

this world, which is above and under the water, would fade?

couraging, often delightful statements aimed at encouraging

After landing in Sharm EL Sheikh, with a stopover in Kato-

newly minted divers to buy a trip are not far from the truth?

wice (that's how Air Cairo flies now), and a forced one-hour

Or maybe the time of the pandemic has made fundamental

stop behind the wall of Sharm in order to collect a few buses

changes in the activities of local diving centres so that the

and coaches for a "convoy", after 1.5 hours of driving, we ar-

business has collapsed, and the outflow of tourists has had

rived at Happy Life Hotel at 7 a.m., being exhausted of that

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trip. Part of our team went to sleep off the flight, but the other part, the most thirsty of dives, immediately checked into the Lagona Divers base to plan diving attractions. It immediately became apparent that the local law now required a “welcome dive”, regardless of the level of certification and experience of the diver, which is of course an extra charge. It was comforting that it also served as an orientation dive on the house reef, so some of our team immediately did this and another dive, visiting the house reef in the north (towards Moray Garden) and in the south (not further than Golden Blocks). Whoever slept through the time of that first diving had to start another day with this dive. The advantage of the chosen option of staying at Happy Life Village Hotel, and not at the hotel of the well-known diving base Planet Divers, was that the time saved on trips to diving sites could be used for other forms of entertainment, snorkelling or blissful laziness on a sun lounger. In fact, that's exactly what happened, because we had almost all the famous dive spots at hand. To the right of the hotel beach there are

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We were looking forward to this moment. Will there be anything to admire underwater? Is it better, because the pandemic caused that fewer divers have come here, or is it worse, because the climate is changing, and corals are dying due to water temperature and other stressful factors. Such doubts and questions bothered us until we entered the water. Already the first dives on the house reef gave hope that we would not regret our choice of place, because the encountered diversity of marine life was delightful and almost made you dizzy. Small yellow-headed morays, clownfish, which are not afraid of curious and strange-looking newcomers from another planet, shy as always octopuses, elegant ray-finned fish and large puffers, or the multitude of popular reef fish (anthias) accompanied us at almost every block of the reef when we headed towards Golden Blocks. We also saw something new in every place. On Caves, we met a beautiful red scorpionfish and watched shrimp, and at the end of the dive, we traditionally watched the navey dive places called Moray Garden, Triple Pools, Umm Sid,

blue depths from inside one cave, scaring off some big puffers.

Caves, and to the left Golden Blocks and Southern Oasis.

We were very happy that nothing had destroyed our old

Having checked efficiently the completeness of the equipment

friend big gorgonia, which majestically spreads out at a depth

in the base and having packed everything on a pickup, it was

of about 18–20 meters on Golden Blocks. These golden blocks

possible to enter the water after a short while.

are two towers made of hard corals in golden sand colour,

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Already the first dives on the house reef gave hope that we would not regret our choice of place, because the encountered diversity of marine life was delightful and almost made you dizzy.

which can be seen even from the shore. Almost all of the most

this case with El Bells took place also classically, descending in

interesting marine life around these formations is concentrat-

a narrow chimney to the depth of 32 m and gradually ascend-

ed here, with which are invariably fascinated. We can find here

ing with a longer stop over my favorite place called a saddle,

both anemones and clowns fish, pairing specimens of red sea

over which a 3-minute safety stop is usually made.

bannerfish (heniochus intermedius), my favourite red reef fish

The whole most colorful marine life focuses here actually on

(anthias and pseudoanthias), as well as soft corals resembling

this fragment of the reef, which at some point lowers to about

broccoli (litophyton arboretum). On a sandy slope covered with

5–7 m, creating an arched formation resembling a saddle in

seagrass leading to Golden Blocks, we have one of the most

cross-section and for which crowds of snorkelling people come

interesting encounters of the last dive, about which I will tell

here, usually blocking the divers' entrance to El Bells. A large

you in a moment.

group of them accompanied us this time too.

We cannot forget about Blue Hole, which is a vertical deep

This place of the reef is usually very well lit. Sun rays, re-

well that is the most famous dive site in the Red Sea, not only

fracting in perfectly transparent water and reaching the coral

because of the impressions that accompany the dive, but also

walls create fantastic scenes and well reflect the colours of

because of the large number of accidents that took place here,

not only corals, but also the multitude of all busy marine lives.

and we are reminded of this by the plaques commemorating

Swimming among a huge number of fish, mainly composed of

our colleagues who took their last breath here, underwater.

red reef fish, provides an unforgettable experience. The beauty

We used to do two dives here. The first was to descend

of this place is well reflected in the photos of my friend Bruno

along the "bottomless" wall near the Arch, the famous exit

Waligora (I encourage you to find his website on the Internet).

from this well, which is located at a depth of 52–57 m, and

Fortunately, on the surface in this place nothing has changed

which can be entered by technical divers. Our team had to con-

for the worse as for the service offered for divers. On the shore

tent themselves with admiring the outlines of this giant dark

you can choose from a number of Egyptian pubs, where divers,

bow "hanging" for a short moment at 40 m. The second dive in

as well as other people, including the always fascinating freed-

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ivers, wait for diving and discuss their impressions. Then you

at a safe distance from the boat, and now we were supposed

can choose something to eat, or drink a strengthening Egyptian

to be really alone.

"tea" with vitamin C or a fantastic fruit smoothie.

Golden Blocks to use less gas mixture, to the first block, and

to our individual choice, some divers chose the famous Can-

not going deeper than 20 m, we would hang around the area,

yon, and the others preferred to dive alone, that is, without the

and then we would go back to the hotel pier, where diving usu-

care of an Egyptian guide, on the house reef at the hotel. This

ally begins. It turned out that it was a great idea. At some point,

solution is good, especially for photographers and divers who

as we swam out from behind the block, we saw a turtle, which

like to watch marine life. Fortunately, we formed a team with

became a grateful subject for photography. The multitude of

an experienced photographer from Germany, whose aim was

reef fish no longer impressed us, so we focused on searching

to relax through diving and we spent together the next dives

for other attractions. We were looking at stingrays while they

on the house reef. At some point it turned out that we had only

were huntig lionfish, and we enjoyed every nudibranch we

one dive left out of the purchased package of 10 dives, but due

could find. That's how we ended our dive trip.

to the required time called "no fly", we could only do it early in the morning on the day before departure.

We agreed that we would sail across the surface towards

In the following days we explored other places according

So far I have not mentioned anything about the town of Dahab, its climate, pubs, e.g. Friends, Nemo or Ali Baba or the

The next morning (at 6.00) the divemaster told us that he

popular Chicken House. Who does not know this must see for

had a cough and a runny nose (hotel air conditioning can be

himself what this famous other Egypt looks like. To enthusiasts

tricky!) but, fortunately, nothing prevented us from diving just

I only need to mention that the pedestrian area in the center

the two of us. After quickly preparing the equipment, loading

is expanding and gaining a granite pavement, and the atmo-

it onto a pickup truck and agreeing on a dive plan, we were

sphere of small shops and pubs is invariably the same. We just

ready for a new adventure. I dived in the Red Sea before with

have to return to the diving resort as soon as possible. I wish

only one companion, but it was a night dive on a safari and

we could do it, both you and me.

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No. 4(22)/2022

sponsored article

Dive with GOOD DIVE in Lake Niedack WHY? Because it is a ribbon lake and is precious on the scale of Poland. It is located in Kociewie, in the municipality of Zblewo, at the northern end of the Tuchola Forest. It is an ideal place to try diving and an amazing place for divers who enjoy the shallow littoral and the animals that live in it. And although we can dive from 0 to 30 m deep in the lake, the vast majority of divers do not go deeper than 5 m. Because from spring to late autumn, there is a veritable plethora of fish here. Hundreds of perch we swim into as they move away. Tench swimming in small groups, pike in numbers of up to a dozen on a single dive, common rudd, common bleak, single catfish and crayfish. All these fish can be encountered on one dive, although catfish are the hardest to see. The bottom is covered with lush vegetation, green meadows so to speak. Among other things, water soldier and various types of pondweeds can be found here. And, most importantly, there are no cultivated fields around the lake, and the land, apart from the Twardy Dół centre, is uninhabited, which is why underwater visibility is so good. At the worst time of the year visibility reaches up to 4 m, while at the best time of the year visibility is as high as 14 m. It is a good place for the rubbish search competition, as there is very little or none. If they are found, it's fresh ones recently thrown in by someone inconsiderate. The lake is looked after by members of the Good Dive diving school.

sponsored article

WHAT ABOUT THE INFRASTRUCTURE FOR DIVERS? It is very pleasant. The hangar where you will find the kingdom of Good Dive Base stands right by the lake. They are very well equipped and prepared. They rent equipment (everything) for both wet and dry divers. You can easily rent a dry suit here, fill a cylinder with air or nitrox and even do an intro on a rebreather. The entrance to the water, when diving from the beach, is about 5 m from the base. If you wish to dive on the other side of the lake, Good Dive will organise this – there is a small zodiac available. And best of all – you can come here with unannounced and without reservation. The base fee is only 20 PLN. Twardy Dół is an ideal place for the whole family to relax. The Good Dive school also specialises in diving and training for children. Camps for children are organised here every year. The local and only resort offers accommodation and a restaurant. It is surrounded by forests, and there are opportunities for cycling, jogging, fitness, Nordic walking, kayaking, and hiking. In autumn, the Good Dive base together with the Twardy Dół centre offer a discount on accommodation for divers and people who just want to start their diving adventure.

573 443 818 biuro@good-dive.pl www.good-dive.pl PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

under the ceiling

Diving in the old NUTTLAR lime stone mine Text and photos KURT STORMS

IT IS TIME AGAIN TO GO DIVING IN AN OLD LIMESTONE MINE. THIS TIME WE ARE GOING TO SAUERLAND GERMANY. THERE IS A LITTLE TOWN CALLED "NUTTLAR". NUTTLAR IS A DISTRICT OF THE MUNICIPALITY BESTWIG IN THE NORTHERN HOCHSAUERLANDKREIS (NORTH RHINE-WESTPHALIA) AND HAS ABOUT 1700 WINHABITANTS.

rom the middle of the 19th century Nuttlar lived mainly from slate extraction from the local mine. Five men founded the Gessner company in 1857 and through

constant modernisation the business developed favourably, so that in 1878 it was approved for underground mining. This was the beginning of "the Nuttlar slate mine". The number of employees rose to about 100 in 1900; children and young people also worked there. Slate mining did not

under the ceiling

Briloner Str. 48a D-59909 Bestwig Germany from Brussels it is 3:30hr drive

have any negative effects due to the "First World War", as the

flooded. These passages have a length of 12 kilometres and

arms industry needed slate for insulating the electric moulds.

the maximum depth is 14 to 30 metres.

But due to competition from cheaper slate from Spain and the use of Eternit, slate mining stopped in 1985. It is an enormous labyrinth of mile-long tunnels and large

The drive to Nuttlar takes 3:15 hours from my home town. Together with my wife Caroline and my regular buddy Willem Verreycken, we left at 6:30am for our dive site for today.

spaces. After the closure, the electricity was turned off, caus-

The drive went smoothly, and once we arrived we were pleas-

ing the pumps to stop, so the water reached its maximum

antly received by the owner, we got a briefing, about the oper-

level after 7 years. Of a total of 5 floors, the 2 lower ones are

ation, where the compressor is to possibly fill between dives.

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The mainline is clearly visible everywhere between all the stuff we come across. In between, Willem turns to take a photo. We have only just left, and are already as happy as a child.

They fill here air, Nitrox, Trimix and O2 for the rebreathers.

move from their places. It is a spacious corridor, but you have

Once this briefing was given, we went back to the car to take

to be smart not to touch another wagon to avoid a Silt-out.

the right road to the entrance of the mine, where there is a large parking for 7 cars.

We follow the line where we have to place a 'cookie' in between, the water is cold at 8 degrees. So I am obliged to put

The entrance to the mine can be easily recognised by the

on my heating. The view is extremely clear. There are pipes

yellow container. Here we get our second briefing. What we

and cables everywhere so that light bulbs could be provided

have to pay attention to, where we have to sign in and out.

with electricity.

Once this briefing was over, we could get ready with excitement.

The mainline is clearly visible everywhere between all the stuff we come across. In between, Willem turns to take a pho-

Wim and I put our Bail-out on the waterfront, and here we

to. We have only just left, and are already as happy as a child.

took our first glimpse in the direction of the water, wow, how

Willem swims in through a small passage and we end up in

clear was my first thought and we continued to get ready. Me

a beautiful room as big as a house. The walls that cover this

and Wim both dived on our Rebreather. We spent some time

room are beautiful, which makes the link that these were made

getting the Rebreather ready for diving and going over the

by sawing and not by blowing up black powder. It is an enor-

tests. Today I am diving with the Divesoft Liberty SM.

mous labyrinth, in which you can spend hours. The splendour

Once in the water and having done our S-drill, we descend

of the past is shown to its best advantage here. The carriages,

below the surface and our dive begins. The agreement was

the rails, this gives you even more respect for the people who

that we would do a dive of about 2.5.

once worked here. When we get back to the top after 2,5 hours,

After a few minutes, we arrived at a junction where several cars were shunted around, not knowing that they would never

we have only seen the first part, but we are satisfied. Immediately we are making plans to explore the deeper part.

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under the ceiling

INFO SLATE MINE The slate mine (Schieferbau Nuttlar) is open from April to mid-November on weekends. In winter, the mine is closed due to the hibernation of the bats. Reservation is compulsory. A maximum of 12 cave divers can enter per day and a day ticket costs €69. GOING INTO THE MINE WITHOUT A CAVE DIVING LICENCE Would you like to go further down into the mine but don't have a cave diving licence? Or do you doubt that cave diving is something for you? Here you can have a fantastic experience under supervision. Under strict guidance you can go further in a small group where there is no ascent possible. Floating above the rails, you dive along tubes, cables and old materials. The gas planning is conservative, the experience is great! However, there is a prerequisite for participation. You have to have a preliminary technical basis. This means that you dive with a double set, long hose and lights, but also that you master all the procedures such as gas sharing and valve turning. So it's not for everyone, but an absolute must if you have the level. So you don't have to go to France or Mexico for your first unforgettable cave diving adventure! Sport divers without a cave diving licence can also enjoy this underwater world under supervision. You will be accompanied by an experienced cave diver from the Nuttlar. It is compulsory to dive with equipment that is suitable for cold water, i.e. separate breathing systems, a suitable suit and some diving experience. There is no possibility to rent equipment on site. The cost is 69€ per dive. Don't forget to bring your valid medical certificate, your certification and a valid diving insurance, which will be checked before you dive. If you already have your certification, and you want to dive with a guide, this can be done in addition to the normal entrance fee for 50€ per person extra. You get a guide who dives with a maximum of 3 participants. STAYING IN THE AREA There are many possibilities to stay overnight. A good hotel is Gasthof Sauerwald, which is only 3 km away. Don't want to dive but still want to visit the mine? This is possible in the form of a dry tour in the non-flooded part. A 2hr tour costs 23€, a 4hr tour costs 33€ and a 7hr special tour for photographers costs 65€. These prices include a small snack and a drink. Website: www.schieferbau-nuttlar.de

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events

BALTICTECH 2022

It was 2007. Various conferences and

The weather was not favourable, but

The first TKT (Tri-City Technical Confer-

diving fairs were held in several Euro-

against all odds, after breakfast on Sat-

ence) was attended by 170 participants

pean cities. There were no such events

urday, the lectures began. Already then,

and 11 companies.

in Poland, and yet the potential in the

in the break between presentations, the

sense of good divers and interesting

guests could get acquainted with the of-

The following year, 2008, was the sec-

dive spots was significant. The number

fer of invited companies and equipment

ond conference, also held in Jastrzębia

of wrecks in the Baltic alone reaches

distributors. In a separate room you

Góra. This time more than 230 people

hundreds, if not thousands.

could see heating for dry suits, under-

took part, and among the foreign guests

water scooters or lighting.

Nick Touissant, Alessandro Fenu, An-

Sharing knowledge, experience and

drew Georgitsis had their presentations.

fears from various types of dives has

The special guest of the first Conference

become an end in itself. Already in 2007,

was a well-known and respected instruc-

The next conference – Baltictech 2009

returning from the Technical Conference

tor and wreck diver – Richard Lundgren.

– gathered nearly 400 people, including

from the Czech Republic, the partici-

He presented two projects. One about

18 speakers and 30 exhibitors.

pants talked about organising a similar

the destroyer Erich Giesse and the other

meeting in Poland, and in March they

about the Polish destroyer Grom.

began to work hard to turn the idea into

a logistical point of view, the organisers

action. At that time, the idea was to or-

At the end of Saturday there was

were looking for another location for the

ganise the Tri-City Technical Conference.

a screening of Sławek Paćko's films that

Baltictech Conference 2010. They chose

They were interested in the facility in Jas-

talked about the exploration of The

Gdynia. It turned out that organising

trzębia Góra – a holiday resort that guar-

Caves of Florida, and the time of the in-

such a meeting, with invited guests, with

anteed an appropriate standard for the

tegration of the participants began.

interesting lectures at a high level, with a presentation of the latest solutions in

logistical organisation of the conference.

In 2010, there were changes. From

On Sunday there were 2 more presen-

the equipment, perfectly met the expec-

23 of November 2007 was set as the

tations, including the one about decom-

tations of both visitors and exhibitors.

date.

pression by Dr. Krzyżak.

500 people took part.

events

In 2011, it was decided that future Balt-

how this conference had evolved over

During this year's Baltictech Confer-

ictech conferences would take place ev-

time, how much it had changed and

ence, an amazing attraction for partici-

ery two years. Technical, wreck and cave

grown.

pants will be the opportunity to test the equipment in the water. On Saturday,

diving were widely treated, but freedivers and diving travellers also had their place

In 2019, the 9th edition gathered hun-

a multifunctional swimming pool with

there. In 2013, lectures were conducted

dreds of divers again. Speakers simulta-

a movable bottom belonging to the

simultaneously in 3 different rooms.

neously presented their topics in several

AMW (Naval Academy) will be available

rooms. Recently, more and more people

on the premises.

In 2015, the 7th edition of Baltictech was

have switched from open to closed cir-

organised in Gdynia, in the Pomeranian

cuit. Baltictech turned out to be a great

Baltictech is one of the three largest

Science and Technology Park. It gath-

opportunity to see and compare the

meetings of technical divers in the

ered over 600 guests.

most popular units at one place.

world. The other two are held in Austra-

In 2017, due to its round, 10-year anni-

The next edition due to the Covid-19

ence takes place periodically, every two

versary, it was a unique event, one of the

Pandemic has been postponed from

years in Gdynia and is dedicated to div-

most important events in Europe. The

2021 to 2022.

ing issues.

lia and the United Kingdom. The confer-

two-day meeting gathered 750 participants, 39 lectures and 39 exhibitors. It

It is officially known that BALT-

became very international, and the pre-

ICTECH 2022 will take place at

sentations took place simultaneously in

a new place. On 26–27 Novem-

3 different rooms.

ber 2022 we meet at Oksywie

THE NUMBER OF SEATS IS LIMITED! Don't wait and buy your ticket now:

www.baltictech.com

in Gdynia, in the building of the The speakers Tomasz Stachura and Łu-

Main Library of the Naval Acad-

kasz Piórewicz told the story of the or-

emy, ul. Śmidowicza 69 (en-

ganisation of the first event, from which

trance to the parking lot from

10 years had just passed. Undoubtedly,

Jana Grudzińskiego Street).

it is the largest event in Poland dedicated to wreck and technical diving in the

It was necessary to look for a place that

Baltic Sea. Interestingly, they showed

would host a larger group of guests.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

planet earth

CAN CONTACT WITH A CEPHALOPOD BE THERAPEUTIC? Text Dr hab. Prof. UAM Hanna Mamzer Photos Wojciech Zgoła

Human relations with the animate world are based on consumption in the broadest sense of the term, which is why very few who order octopus rings in a Mediterranean restaurant are aware that they will be consuming a dish prepared from the arms of animals endowed with extraordinary cognitive abilities.

hey are highly mysterious crea-

taining hemocyanin instead of the iron

tures, with a complex structure,

present in hemoglobin. Octopuses are

intricate behaviour, and uncom-

molluscs distinguished by their great

mon abilities. Classed as cephalopods,

ability for complex movements. They

octopuses, as their name suggests, have

learn based on individually collected

eight arms “growing out of their head”.

experiences as they are solitary animals,

In fact, they have six arms for grasping

spending time in pairs only during the

food and two for locomotion (walking

mating season. Thus, they do not pass

on the bottom). In addition to these

on knowledge from generation to gen-

eight limbs, they have three hearts, one

eration, as the parents only take care

pumping peripheral blood throughout

of the hatching of the larvae from eggs.

the body and two (known as branchi-

One is tempted to ask, however, what

al hearts) with which they pump blood

would happen if octopuses passed on

through the gills. The heart, which is re-

knowledge between generations, like,

sponsible for pumping blood through

for example, cetaceans? How much

the body, does not do so when octopus-

would their intelligence have developed

es are swimming. Thus, they tire quickly

and how cognitively proficient would

and therefore greatly prefer to walk on

they be? Scientific studies indicate that

the bottom. Their blood is a greenish

these mysterious cephalopods have

blue colour due to the copper-con-

a short – and long-term memory, which

planet earth

enables them to find their way efficiently

as they are able to change the texture

face of all his troubles, returning to his

through labyrinths. The results of Rob-

of their skin.

childhood memories, the happy time

in Crook's study, published in “Science”

The unusual nature of the complex

when he and his brother swam in the

2021, indicate that the way octopuses

behaviour of octopuses was brilliant-

ocean, the protagonist felt that in order

experience pain physically and psycho-

ly demonstrated in the startling 2020

to regain his mental and emotional bal-

logically is similar to that of mammals1.

documentary film “My Octopus Teach-

ance, he should return to those youth-

Octopuses exposed to pain at specific

er”, directed by Pippa Ehrlich and James

ful encounters with water. To immerse

locations in the aquarium (where they

Reed. A year later, the film won an Oscar

himself in it again and thus understand

were injected in one arm with diluted

(for best feature-length documentary)

his needs. Following his intuition, he be-

acetic acid), later avoided these lo-

and numerous other awards and nom-

gan regular dives in the Atlantic Ocean,

cations in return for settling in those

inations. The documentary drew the

around Cape Storms (in South Africa).

areas where the researchers relieved

attention of audiences to the kind of

Aiming to regain his 'connection' with

their pain (they were given an analgesic

relationship octopuses are able to build

nature and himself, he dived without

injection). Although solitary, octopuses

with humans and how humans are able

a suit, which he considered a kind of

communicate with other individuals by

to relate to these animals. The film is

artificial barrier separating him from

changing the colour of their skin and

the story of the therapy that the main

the natural environment. Thus, be-

are able to communicate their moods

character and narrator, Craig Foster, has

coming part of the ocean, immersing

to each other, including threatening

had for himself, somewhat by accident.

himself in the underwater world, swim-

behaviour. Adapting their colour to the

Foster, an overworked filmmaker in

ming through kelp forests, he came

environment also allows them to hunt

whose life a number of emotional prob-

across an unusual structure formed of

effectively while protecting themselves

lems accumulated in a short period of

colourful shells and stones. It was an

from predators. It is even more effective

time, became ill with depression. In the

octopus-built shelter. This encounter

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

planet earth

Although solitary, octopuses communicate with other individuals by changing the colour of their skin and are able to communicate their moods to each other, including threatening behaviour.

fascinated Foster so much that he reg-

viewer. It shows trust, interest, and the

attacks? How to deal with the death of

ularly came to stay with the animal. The

desire for contact with oneself, but at

the animal? Does man have the right

octopus, distrustful at first, slowly began

the same time it provokes sadness, fear

to interfere in the natural world, even

to get used to the diver and one day de-

and reflection on the further fate of the

if he has good intentions? These and

cided to touch the man's outstretched

octopus. Living in a natural body of wa-

many other questions are posed to the

hand. So began a healing relationship

ter, the octopus is exposed to threats:

viewer by the authors of the film, forcing

for the man, full of emotions and di-

attacks by predators, exhaustion, dis-

the viewer to dive into their reflections.

verse sensations, based on mutual

ease, and ultimately death, which is, on

The moment when the octopus first

trust and respect between the human

the one hand, the stage that ends the

touched Foster's hand with its arm be-

being and the animal and its ecosys-

life of the individual, and on the other

came a turning point in the relationship

tem. The relationship was evidently

hand, the moment that begins the cir-

– at least from the human protagonist's

forged by the octopus – meaning that

culation of matter in nature, and thus

point of view. Craig Foster had waited

the octopus consented to the human

gives another life. Meeting an octopus,

26 days, and he interpreted the octo-

touch – in fact, it touched the human.

the protagonist of the film experiences

pus's touch as acceptance, which also

Craig Foster's relationship with the oc-

dilemmas: should he feed the sick octo-

allowed him to understand how much

topus evokes complex emotions in the

pus? Should he protect it from predator

he needed acceptance from humans.

Polish Diving School

OCTOPUS in Hamburg +49 176 48664595 60

mariusbebel@icloud.com

planet earth

The world of animals often becomes

of a book describing the biography of

tions. By diving into the ocean, Foster

a source of such positive feelings for hu-

a pig treated as a companion animal,

was given the opportunity to immerse

mans, due to the fact that animals judge

"The Good Good Pig") talks about oc-

within himself and his thoughts, and

differently than humans, build relation-

topuses. The authors of these popular

ultimately through this he found con-

ships based on different characteristics

science or even pop culture messages

tact with his loved ones. This is how fol-

and behaviours than humans. Although

have enormous power to influence

lowing a childhood memory helped the

perhaps using the term 'animals' is too

mass audiences – they are able to ed-

protagonist to deal with an existential

much of a generalisation, linking or-

ucate about what kind of animals oc-

crisis. The octopus was both a teacher

ganisms from very diverse taxonomic

topuses are. And although for most

and a friend. And diving was a form of

groups. This problem was highlighted

people octopuses are a food ingredient

occupational therapy.

by Peter Singer in "Animal Liberation",

or an attraction in water parks, where

pointing out that such broad generali-

they are caught from the wild because

I would like to thank Marta Stawska-Pu-

sations cause us to lose important dif-

they cannot reproduce in captivity, it

chalska for help in editing the text.

ferences – small but important.

turns out that they can also be a friend.

Craig Foster has managed to estab-

In Craig Foster's case, an octopus ac-

lish a peculiar and poignant relationship

cidentally encountered during a dive

with the octopus of a very emotional na-

became the object of the protagonist/

ture. Similarly, Sy Montgomery (author

narrator's own projection of his emo-

0042(21)00197-8

https://www.cell.com/iscience/fulltext/S2589-

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

knowledge

I STARTED DIVING BECAUSE I WAS SCARED Text Magdalena Sokołowska Photo BEEDIVER Bartosz Pszczółkowski

Fear is a certain feeling of anxiety and tension. It is a natural feeling and has already accompanied our ancestors by warning them of predators and other dangers, allowing them to attack or escape quickly.

oday, we understand the fear better, but at the same time the

gans

anxiety may appear in greater

— tingling or feeling cold in the hands

numbers of situations where we are not

and feet means that the blood has

really threatened, because the subcon-

been directed to the muscles that

scious gives us an idea of a threat that

are more important in the face of

is not really there.

danger

When we experience anxiety in our

— difficulty concentrating is associated

body, some biological changes take

with decreased blood supply to the

place. Being aware of their existence, we can deal with "false alarms" more easily: — dizziness is associated with rapid and deep breathing — the heart beats faster to deliver more

oxygenated blood to important or-

brain and more to the muscles — trembling is also caused by increased blood supply to the muscles — sweating is just a reaction cooling the body so that it does not overheat — stomach problems occur because the

knowledge

No one would have thought my fear would turn into a dream to meet a shark face-to-face in the water. Photo BEEDIVER Bartosz Pszczółkowski

blood is redirected from the digestive

I was swimming in the lake, I thought

hypnotised, I watched the life of under-

system to other parts of the body

a shark was going to appear out of no-

water creatures and learned more and

Fear is really your ally, and it's trying

where and attack me. The same thing

more about sharks. For several years,

to protect you from danger, but it can

used to happen when I was swimming in

watching sharks on TV, then searching

also keep us from having unforgettable

the pool. I was looking around to make

for information on the Internet, un-

adventures. If you're even a little afraid

sure if there was no shark swimming at

consciously my fear was decreasing,

of something, your subconscious gives

me. Every time I went into any water,

and curiosity was growing, which even-

you reasons not to do something.

my imagination knew no bounds. In

tually turned into passion. I've come

My adventure with diving is a con-

addition, I often had bloody nightmares

to the conclusion that it's worth getting

sequence of my fear of sharks. I do not

with sharks in the lead role. My anxiety

to know the "enemy", getting to know

know a diver who has not watched the

was very irrational.

them. It was hard to pull me away from

film "Jaws" from 1975. No one expect-

When I was a child, there were no TV

ed this work to have worldwide conse-

channels such as National Geographic,

quences. This film portrayed sharks as

Discovery Channel or Animal Planet,

No one would have thought my fear

mindless killing machines that attack

and nature programmes could only be

would turn into a dream to meet a shark

everything and eat people. Since then,

watched at weekends on Polish Televi-

face-to-face in the water. I already had

everything has changed in the shark

sion. One day I came across a program

tremendous knowledge, and my friends

world. Before the film was made, no one

about underwater life, where, among

knew I was a shark freak. I even made

treated sharks as a great threat, people

others, sharks were shown and their diet

presentations about them at classes at

sailing in the seas and oceans did not

was described. Human flash was not in-

my university (Poznań University of Eco-

care much about them.

the glass of the shark tank at Sea Life Aquarium in Barcelona.

cluded in it, but I still had my doubts.

nomics) – the topic was to be the role

I saw the film "Jaws" before I even

However, I was waiting for programmes

of a leader, except that my leader lived

went to my primary school. I watched

presenting the underwater world and

underwater.

it myself, without the supervision of my

the terrifying sharks. When the satel-

When my colleague became a diving

parents – a big mistake that had huge

lite dish appeared in the house, nature

instructor, the next day after passing the

consequences. From that moment when

channels became my favourite, and as

exam, he called me and announced that

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

knowledge Photo Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz

I would be doing a diving course with him to fulfil my dreams (it was Bartosz Pszczółkowski cooperating with Perfect Diver). It was with him that I saw my first shark, an oceanic whitetip, on the reef of Elphinstone in Egypt. The experience of diving with my first shark aroused a desire to see other species. Then I spent my savings on diving trips where I could see different species of sharks. I've been to Egypt a few times, the Maldives a few times, the Philippines, Thailand, Fiji, and many other countries where you can't see sharks, but you can go diving. In Fiji, where I experienced typical diving only with sharks, I used the visualisation method (mentioned in the PADI textbooks). Before I went into the water, I imagined possible scenarios – what could happen underwater and how I should react. Of course, my imagination was still in full swing and I imagined what would happen if I was bitten by a bull shark or tiger shark, which is known for liking to try everything with its jaws. The shark number 2 on the list of the most dangerous sharks in the world was half a meter away from me, and I wanted to hug it (which of course we never do while diving). Underwater, I have seen: Oceanic Whitetip Shark, Whitetip Reef Shark, Lemon Shark, Blacktip Shark, Blacktip Reef Shark, Grey Reef Shark, Whale Shark, Bull Shark, Nurse Shark, Tiger Shark, Thresher Shark. Another of my dream species is hammerhead shark (in the Bahamas). Sharks are constantly trying to fight against their bad reputation, and divers are making a big contribution to portraying sharks as beautiful, harmless creatures, needed for the underwater ecosystem of the world, which also affects our life on the surface. Thanks to diving, I was also able to learn another method of overcoming anxiety: "going into deep water". In this experience, I was also accompanied by Bartosz, whom I visited at that time in Sardinia, on the Capo Photo Magdalena Sokołowska

knowledge

Photo Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz

Galera. I flew quite spontaneously, ex-

that we are not in danger. The more we

what happens to us, but we have

pecting easy, pleasant diving on shallow

expose ourselves to fearful situations,

a choice of how we look at the re-

reefs. I was surprised when the first day

the less fear we will experience.

ality.

of the dive I received a large and pow-

Visualise the entrance to the water

erful torch as part of my compulsory

and all activities learned in the course.

equipment. I did not read on the Inter-

You can also breathe consciously – take

net what dives were offered there, and

a slow deep breath through the dia-

they were dives in grottos and caves that

phragm – making a "balloon" out of your

I had never dealt with before. I had no

belly, hold it for a moment and exhale

choice but to overcome all the difficul-

slowly. Repeat it several times focusing

ties of these dives.

only on your breath. Don't be shy to tell

Diving is like discovering another planet, that is why it is no wonder that we are often accompanied by fear.

your Dive Master about your concerns, ask for safety information. What should you remember from

When you feel fear of entering the wa-

this article:

ter, remember that it is only your sub-

— dear parents, be careful on what your

conscious that exaggerates everything.

children watch, because it may cause

Books, films, courses, gaining knowl-

trauma to them

edge, should be used to learn about

— fear may be our ally

a given topic and get used to potential

— fear can be dealt with by knowing ex-

fear. Then there is practice – conscious,

actly its cause, using exposure to the

gradual exposing oneself to fear. We

fear factor, visualisation, conscious

learn in small steps that we are able to survive unpleasant sensations and

breathing — we do not always have influence on

Photo Adrian Juriewicz PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

planet earth

SHARKS Text Anna Sołoducha

Photo Red Sea Diving Safari

in the 1975 Steven Spielberg-directed film... but did they gain

INTELLIGENT. THEY HAVE SHORT AND LONG-TERM MEMORY. SOME HAVE STEREOSCOPIC VISION, WHICH ENABLES THEM TO JUDGE DISTANCES PERFECTLY.

notoriety as a result? Sharks have been roaming the oceans for 400 million years and are undeniably the rulers of this realm. They are known as excellent hunters, sow terror and often inspire fear. What is really myth and what is truth? What lies behind the iconic characters of the movie “Jaws”? Contrary to popular belief about sharks, they are among the most harmless predators on the planet. Statistically speaking – the number of sharks, their frequency of occurrence and

B 66

confrontation zone compared to the number of beaches, surf-

inocular vision makes the animal able to orient itself

ers and, above all, divers, can practically rule out any danger.

better in three-dimensional space, with a more precise

It is the media that has created the image of the 'killers' that

sense of the depth of the visual field. They are some of

create so much fear in us. Fears of water, darkness, depth, and

the fiercest predators in the ocean and, at the same time, some

unknown environments. It is history that has taught us to be

of the most sensitive sea creatures. They played a starring role

cautious, that has created a survival instinct. For more than

planet earth

Photo Red Sea Diving Safari

10,000 years, humans have been fleeing and fighting preda-

And most importantly, but not at all easily – we always have

tors. However, what every person in whom a shark inspires

to look sharks straight in the eye. Sound abstract? Maybe it is

fear needs to understand is that it is not the shark, but the

abstract, but it is effective! Indeed, if we find ourselves in such

situation we find ourselves in – which we ourselves in fact cre-

a situation, we instinctively look for an escape route. The shark,

ate – that is a threat to us. As divers, swimmers, surfers, anglers

on the other hand, often starts to move. And us? We start to get

– we are entering their environment, their oasis, their refuge,

nervous. That's when we have to remember – we position our

their home. It is often the case that the shark smells the bait

body upright and look the predator in the eye. By remaining

and takes us – humans – as it's source. What should be done

calm – the shark's interest will slowly begin to diminish. Im-

in such a situation? What should you keep in mind to feel safe

portant! The shark is looking for fleeing prey. Therefore, since

around these predators? The first time I came across shark

we are not fleeing – we are not interesting  Sharks rely on

diving guidelines was in South Africa. There, a dive with blacktip

sight. It is taken for granted that if a shark is circling around

sharks awaited us. Before entering the water, we were given

us – it will definitely attack. The reason, however, is to find the

very precise instructions on how to behave during the dive.

aforementioned eye contact. The animal is curious, but it keeps

As human skin shines underwater like fish scales, it is very

an appropriate distance. It wants to watch us – that is why it

important that our hands are not visible. We must not make

swims up. When the shark calms down (because the truth is

sudden movements, because when we start splashing with

that it is more nervous than we are) it swims up even closer.

our fins – the sharks will immediately swim up. It is import-

And this is where our imagination goes wild. The brain suggests

ant to maintain a vertical position (i.e. any position other than

the worst possible scenarios – we start to see frames from

horizontal) at all times. However, the theory that by adopting

the movie "Jaws" in our mind. Our body's defensive reaction

a horizontal position we become more like a seal, fish, or tur-

is to move our hand – so as to drive the predator away from

tle – the object of shark desire and potential prey – is wrong.

us. This movement of the water causes it to hit the gills which

Sharks have excellent underwater vision and can also distin-

makes the shark start to retreat. We must remember that the

guish colours. They have a large brain and are not primitive.

gills are the most sensitive organ – not only in sharks, but in

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

planet earth

Photo Red Sea Diving Safari

all fish. Even the slight pressure that the water exerts on the

usual situation (because they do happen), we need to observe

gills causes the shark to immediately move away. In the case

the animal and try to predict its behaviour. Some sharks swim

of such behaviour between sharks, this means that another

towards the boat, others keep their distance. Those that are

shark will attack it out of fear, or it is simply establishing a hi-

curious are in a different mood than those that avoid us. They

erarchy in the herd. Such movements are therefore definitely

can be ignored from the boat, but not in the water. A shark that

not advised ;)

is a few metres away from you is different from the one that is

Each species has its own body language, and each individual

close by. The one that swims up feels good, is lively or trusting.

within the species differs from one another. Males differ from

If it trusts the individual in front of it – it does not run away,

females through size and hormones. Young animals are livelier

but 'glides'. Gliding means that the animal is relaxed. Lowered

than the older ones. No single shark or situation is the same.

pectoral fins indicate the same; they certainly do not indicate

This is why it is so important to respond to each according

an attack ! On the contrary! It is a sign that the shark will swim

to their psyche. There are times, for example, when sharks are

away. When it swims with its mouth closed, we say that it is

withdrawn and need to be calmed down. It is paradoxical that

holding its breath and we don't know what to expect, it is not

such a large animal is afraid, even though they surpass us in

relaxed, but it will not attack. So, as you have already noticed

strength and speed. But they don't know this. Looking at us

– if we know the body language of a shark, we understand its

from their perspective – they just don't know who they have

behaviour. Our misinformation about these predators comes

in front of them.

mainly from films and novels... The most famous myth is the

Sharks are not thick-skinned, they assess risks, they act in-

assumption that sharks are attracted to the smell of human

stinctively. If they don't like something – they will give us a sign

blood! Nothing could be further from the truth! Our blood com-

before they react, they are cautious. If they don't understand

pletely does not "turn them on";) Also if you injure your heels

the situation – they will swim away instead of reacting. In an un-

from fins or shoes and blood pours... no worries. No one who

planet earth

Zdjęcie Pro Dive

lives in the deep sea will be interested in you. It is also often

with millions of sound-absorbing dermal denticles, which gives

thought that sharks are constantly eating, and in fact their food

them the ability to silently approach their prey... The denticles

represents about 2–3 % of their body weight on a daily basis.

also reduce the density of the water, which makes the shark

Which does not mean that they are constantly hungry! When

move very fast. The shark's skin has another property – a so-

it comes to intelligence, on the other hand, sharks are very

called lateral line organ which extends from the head to the

aware of their body and the three-dimensionality of objects.

tail. This is a 'gift' from evolution that enables it to recognise

They recognise structures and can avoid them. They can also

water movements. This makes the shark able to sense an ap-

turn around and feel the touch of parasites. They learn by ob-

proaching fish, which is why it also hunts at night. It is able

servation and have an excellent memory. An interesting fact

to detect changes in the electric field and thus sense the pulse

is that sharks have more than 5 or even 7 senses! They are

of its prey. Also noteworthy are its teeth, which are extreme-

great example of how predators improve with evolution. They

ly sharp and grow back quickly. The shark's skeleton, on the

certainly deserve recognition and respect. In addition to their

other hand, is very light and made of cartilage. They are truly

excellent sense of smell, they have many perceptual organs, as

remarkable animals. However, it would be hard not to mention

exemplified by their skin and its flattened scales. It is covered

the attacks on humans – which of course do happen. There are

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

planet earth

We need to start perceiving sharks differently, to discard the myth of monsters from the deep. Fear of them is created by the media. Photo Activtour archives

from only a few, up to a dozen a year. In fact, sharks do some-

small mouth, they are mere bites. Serious attacks are very rare.

times attack, but that's because WE are the ones teasing them,

Large sharks, like the great white shark, attack 3–7 times a year

upsetting them, and testing how they will react. Sharks defend

and such attacks only rarely end tragically. The hysteria that

themselves against what they perceive as aggression. We dive

most often occurs is usually unjustified.

all over the world. In very many places we encounter these

We need to start perceiving sharks differently, to discard the

animals because, like us, sharks like temperatures above 17°C.

myth of monsters from the deep. Fear of them is created by

So, if there are some accidents, they occur in Florida, South

the media. In the case of attacks – the word aggression is often

Africa, or Australia. The number of sharks is not higher in these

used, thus emphasising that they are dangerous. This is not

places, but there are more aggressive species. There are more

true. Sharks do not attack us to hurt us. They do not perceive

than 500 species of sharks in the world, of which only 12 can at-

us as prey. They do not want to kill us or hurt us. They attack

tack. Of this dozen, about 5–6 species can actually threaten us.

when they are stressed, whether it is a situation where only

The others do not really attack. Some of the more aggressive

the sharks are present, or a human is present. Sharks do not

species are bull sharks, tiger sharks and great white sharks.

know that our skin is thin, they do not want to hurt us. Any

Interestingly, the most frequent attacker is... the blacktip shark!

attack is a result of the situation they are in. If a shark takes an

However, its bites are not dangerous because it has a very

interest in a shoal, and a diver is nearby, it will be considered part of that shoal. A shark in this situation may attack, even though the human does not match the size of the rest of the prey. When a shark looks for prey, it has an image of it in its mind. If it smells it – it expects to prey. It looks for a suitable animal, emitting such smell and making 'fear' noises. Humans definitely do not fit into this image. Our scent mixes with that of the shoal, but we do not match visually. When the shark sees us, it gets lost. It is interested in the sounds and smell, but the image surprises it, so it won't take a chance, because after all, we could be dangerous. Sharks are predators and underwater they are second to none. They get to their prey in no time and tear bone and

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

diving

Wyprawy nurkowe Miejsce WYBIERZ KIERUNEK

Termin Cel wyprawy

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

muscle with their teeth, but they certainly do not feed on humans. They are distrustful and wary. They rarely swim up to us. As I mentioned, accidents occur in exceptional situations when humans and animals meet at the wrong time. They inflict most of the wounds with their gums, checking what they are dealing with. It can be dangerous, but a shark only approaches us when curiosity is stronger than fear. It feels our fear and, by attacking us, wants to see if it knows the surface of our body (in the case of us divers, mainly neoprene). This is why injuries are not deep. Serious wounds only happen when the shark grabs our hand, and we pull away. Then the tissue breaks against the teeth and a deep wound is caused. If, on the other hand, we do not move – the shark swims away. Of course, we have to approach a great white a little differently

30.11.2022

Galapagos Galapagos - nurkowa wyprawa życia

from a blue shark. But the principle is always the same. It all depends on the situation we find ourselves in. And believe me – sharks really are likeable  You will read about the species of sharks, the regions in which they are found, as well as the dangers that threaten these magnificent animals and

WIĘCEJ WYPRAW >>

what will happen if sharks become scarce in the next part of the article 'SHARKS'.

www.activtour.pl 607 777 538 PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

planet earth

SWIFT SWALLOWS Barn swallow

Text and photos Wojciech Jarosz

"A swallow is a black dagger, torn from the breasts of the wind. A sudden anchor od sadness, from an invisible yacht..." – this is how the text of one of the most recognisable Polish songs begins.

and intensity. So I wrote once about the ocean birds that spend weeks and months on the waves, and sometimes about the small inhabitants of the rushes. The direct reason for choosing swallows as the protagonists of this text was the inspiring observation of barn swallows (Hirundo rustica), which established their nests under the planks of a bridge over one of the lakes in Poznań (the one that is the closest to my house). Swimming around this platform on the recently fashionable SUP board, I was even surrounded by swallows flying in a group to their nests with a supply of food for their flightless young and by those who left the colony for another portion of insects.

The very nesting on the water, which is not the norm for

recall these words because, apart from an extremely ac-

barn swallows, most often applies to sand martins (Riparia ri-

curate description of the characteristic morphology of

paria), which dig their minks in the river slopes (just like river-

swallows, it uses comparisons that strongly refer to water

kingfishers!). Before swallows were so strongly synanthropised

issues – wind, anchor, yacht. But that is not the only reason

(they decided to live in the vicinity of man), they built their

why I decided to look at these wonderful birds in Perfect Diver.

nests on rocky walls, steep cliffs and similar places. Now, in

Swallows can simply be found over the water, and this is

Europe, far from people, there are sand martins, barn swal-

the basic argument why we want to talk about them here, after

lows and common house martins (delichon urbicum) that have

all, in our bird cycle there are descriptions of species related

specialised in the use of man-made buildings as nesting places.

to water. This relation to water can have a different character

Barn swallows usually stick their clay cup-shaped nests inside

planet earth

House martins

buildings, such as barns, sheds, stables or pigsties (hence the English name: barn swallow), while common house swallows, as the name suggests, create their much more closed structures outside buildings in window recesses, under cornices, wall hoods, etc. Why would swallows have the idea of choosing such a living environment? One of the basic reasons mentioned by experts in swallow habits is the high availability of flying insects (the basic food of swallows), which often accompany animals kept by humans. For the same reason, swallows are eager to live in the vicinity of water reservoirs – after all, you can always meet insects there! It is also worth mentioning how these birds get clay, preferably the well soaked one, which they use to build their nests. This material is easily available primarily on the banks of water reservoirs, to which swallows eagerly fly from the immediate and House martins

distant vicinity. It is estimated that in order to build a nest, a pair of swallows must go for material well over a thousand times! There is another situation when lovers of aquatic and underwa-

the destruction of the said nests is associated with bad fortune

ter activities may encounter swallows, both in large and even

that brings various punishments to those who dare do it, for

very large groups. When the breeding season is over, the swal-

example, getting freckles on their face... There are many more

lows gather for departure. They like to spend time, especially at

superstitions and symbolic meanings. All because swallows have

night, in reed fields. This is probably where one of the Polish old

been close to humans for a long time. In the culture, not only

folklore superstitions came from, saying that swallows spend

folk culture, there are many references to swallows, to recall, for

the winter in the mud of a lake bottom, with their tails inter-

example, Słowacki ("Kordian"), Sienkiewicz ("Janko Muzykant"),

twined and forming long ropes. It was also believed that when

Staff ("Droga") or Shakespeare ("Richard III").

winter is driven out by spring, the first person to see a spring

It would be good if swallows were still with us, and unfor-

swallow is to be lucky and successful throughout the year. Hous-

tunately that is not so obvious now. In many countries, the

es where swallows have their nests are considered happy, and

number of barn swallows or house martins is falling dramat-

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

planet earth

Barn swallow

ically (e.g. in Hungary), and in Poland, which, together with

Sand martins

Bulgaria, is home to the largest number of swallows from among European countries, there are also changes that may

they form together with river martins. In total, there are 85 spe-

have a negative impact on the swallow population. Changes in

cies in the family. In addition to our close cousins, there are

the agricultural landscape are to a large extent the cause of the

exotic swallows, such as saw-wings, Mascarene swallows, tree

disappearance of swallows. In villages, old buildings that used

swallows, purple martins, rough-winged swallows, tawny-head-

to have many angles, cracks or exposed roof beams, and have

ed swallows and others. The body type is usually similar, the

been a dream place for swallows so far, are being modernised

colours are usually repetitive, with some deviations. Our barn

or replaced by new ones. The said buildings were also a fa-

swallow has, for example, a rusty forehead and throat areas,

vourite place for wagtails, black redstarts, common redstarts,

the black-and-rufous swallow is all red on its bottom, while the

starlings, and even owls.

red-rumped swallow has red only on the back of its head. Our

Of course, swallows can also be found in smaller and larg-

sand martin is definitely more brown than black, but the saw-

er cities. The biggest ones, too. Window niches of residential

wings are all black. Interestingly, sexual dimorphism among

blocks are very willingly inhabited by common barn martins,

swallows is generally absent – females and males are often

but due to fecal contamination of the glass, their nests are often

indistinguishable. The multitude of species means that almost

removed by people living there. If Dear Reader were to wonder

every corner of the world with the right climate has its swallows,

whether there is any other solution leading to a clean window

which can often be admired during distant trips and journeys –

apart from chasing away swallows (and we should remember

apart from Antarctica, they occur on every continent. European

that these are legally protected animals), I would be pleased

species usually migrate to wintering grounds (sometimes even

to inform you that there is. There are special shelves for swal-

10,000 km!), e.g. in Africa, and return to the same areas in sub-

lows available in pet shops, which provide space for a nest

sequent seasons, which in turn means that at different times

and preventing contamination of the facade or window. It is

of the year you can encounter the same birds in different parts

worth remembering that where there are swallows, mosqui-

of the globe. An interesting fact about these migrations is that

toes, midges and other insects, which these birds eat in huge

swallows breed in the far north, e.g. behind the Arctic Circle in

quantities, our lives will be much less difficult. Therefore it is

Scandinavia, travel further south than Central European birds,

worth hosting "the sisters of the storm" (quoting the chorus of

which stop in the sub-Saharan part of the Dark Continent.

the song mentioned at the beginning).

Watch swallows during your next aquatic activities! Perhaps

Finally, a handful of information on the biology of these

you will have a chance to see how they drink water in flight,

birds. Swallows, from a taxonomic point of view, belong to the

or with what efficiency these great pilots maneuver just above

order of the passeriformes and the family hirundinidae, which

the surface catching more and more insects.

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PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

events

ALL THE TRASH IS OURS! The underwater trash too! Last year there was a record that we hadn't seen for years. More than 300,000 volunteers relieved nature of 442 tons (!) of waste in the 28th Clean Up the World Action - Poland! This number also included divers who, together with us, cleaned up Lake Bystrzyckie and Lake Ciecz from the garbage lying there. Unfortunately, this is proof that we still produce rubbish and we do it a lot. This year, for the 29th time, we will go out to clean Poland of the garbage in nature. Will you join us?

a picture of scattered garbage, with a critical comment, usually directed to the one who threw the garbage there. And what about the wild underwater dumps? Despite the fact that often on holidays we rest only a few meters from the lake where someone a moment earlier threw home renovation remains, it does not seem to bother us. The reason for this is simple: "what eyes do not see, the heart regrets not". A wild dump can directly threaten our health, but since it is deep under water, we are just not aware of it. THE DIVER WILL TELL YOU THE TRUTH Only when a group of phenomenal volunteer divers enters the water, collects what lies at the bottom and pulls it ashore, we (diving laymen) open our eyes with amazement. Bottles, food packaging, electronics, household appliances, paint cans, tires... Without you, divers, the secrets of underwater garbage would remain undiscovered, still poisoning the environment. So I am going to ask you, Dear Readers of Perfect Diver and all the divers who will read this news, to help us

WHAT LIES AT THE BOTTOM?

look at the bottom of Polish waters and to make the mani-

I ended my last article in Perfect Diver with the ominous-sound-

festo of non-littering in nature resonate widely also from the

ing headline "hard work ahead of us", because despite the im-

surface of the water. It's time to say out loud: all the trash in

pressive results of last year's edition, there is still a lot to do.

the whole world is ours; this left by man in nature and this

So, Dear Readers, the time of hard work is coming, and we

cleaned up by man. There is no another type of trash on our

are once again flying the flag of the Clean Up the World Ac-

planet.

tion and... we go underwater. In Poland, the awareness of

underwater littering is rather low. We focus more on what is

THE 29TH WORLD CLEAN UP ACTION – POLAND!

visible to the unaided eye. Therefore while walking in a forest

This year, for the 29th time, we will go out to clean Poland of

we come across a wild dump, it immediately arouses our in-

the garbage in nature. The Clean Up the World campaign

dignation. I often see posts on Instagram and Facebook with

started on 22 April and will last until the third weekend

events

Finally, I encourage you to be an Ambassador of Non-Littering. Together, let's propagate the problem of littering in nature, among friends, colleagues, in the media and social media. Why? Because the voice of many sounds louder and travels further. But also because the Clean Up the World Action is not about cleaning all the time, but about making litterers stop littering. So keep repeating the slogan

WSZYSTKIE ŚMIECI SĄ NASZE 29. AKCJA SPRZĄTANIE ŚWIATA-POLSKA FINAŁ AKCJI 16-18 WRZEŚNIA 2022

of this year's action: "ALL TRASH IS OURS" and invite others to do underwater cleaning together. Let us discover the shameful truth hiding at the bottom of Polish lakes. Grzegorz Mikosza Chief Coordinator of

www.naszaziemia.pl

facebook/naszaziemia instagram/naszaziemia

the World Clean Up Campaign in Poland

of September (16-18 September) when the traditional Grand Finale will take place. Similarly to last year, one day of the Grand Finale, Saturday, 17 September, is scheduled for underwater cleaning. And we will do it together with our Partner – Perfect Diver Magazine. So follow the information – also on our social media channels: @naszaziemia.pl – where we will soon publish more details (also regarding where we will clean and how you can join us). However, if you plan to go underwater by the end of September and clean up a reservoir, you can easily register your underwater action on the www. naszaziemia.pl/ssp2022 website. Your results will be entered in the official report of the 29th action and you will receive a certificate of participation.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

tips & curiosities ACADEMY

HOW TO BECOME A BETTER DIVER?

Text Wojciech A. Filip

Photo Tomasz Płociński

A KNOWLEDGE CHECK AWAITS YOU AT THE END OF THE ARTICLE – DO IT TWICE: BEFORE AND AFTER READING THE MATERIAL! FROM TIME TO TIME, PERFECT DIVER PRESENTS SIMPLE TIPS TO SIGNIFICANTLY IMPROVE YOUR DIVING TECHNIQUE. THEY CAN BE USED BOTH BY THE BEGINNER DIVER, AS WELL AS THE VERY EXPERIENCED TECHNICAL DIVER OR INSTRUCTOR.

Which gear element impacts almost everything we do underwater? Our hero: The crotch strap – our gear’s most crucial piece of material The crotch strap is a standard element of rigs that include a harness and plate, but it can be successfully used in many traditional jackets. The purpose of the crotch strap is to hold your gear on your back in such a way so that it cannot move towards the

Here’s the deal: by spending 15 to 30 minutes, you will

diver’s head. In other words, whether your head underwater

improve:

is directed towards the surface or the bottom, it cannot cause

´ your position underwater

your gear to shift.

´ buoyancy control

In this article, we will separately discuss the impact of the

´ reduce gas consumption

crotch strap on beginner and advanced divers. No matter how

´ increase rescue safety

advanced you are, I recommend reading the entire material,

tips

& curiosities

ACADEMY

as many consequences of using the strap are common for

If your crotch strap is too loose, it will cause the entire gear to move along your back towards your head, preventing you

all divers.

from raising it. You will automatically start holding your breath,

BEGINNER DIVER

which will change your buoyancy. Shifting gear means shifting

You will feel safer on the surface, also at sea with higher

the weight, which in turn will impact your position (to maintain

waves

control, you’ll start falling into the unwanted “seahorse” posi-

Without the crotch strap or with one that is too long, when you

tion). With your head stuck under the gear, your orientation

inflate your BCD with gas, instead of “pulling” you as high as

will be limited – you might lose contact with your team or miss

possible above the water surface, it will only move the gear up,

any signs given to you. Buoyancy control is also related to the

while your head will remain close to the water. Correct crotch

next item concerning gas consumption.

strap length eliminates the problem. You will reduce your gas consumption You will improve your buoyancy control

With stable gear positioning on your back, you should have

A properly adjusted crotch strap allows you to take any posi-

no problem with raising your head and breathe more easily

tion underwater freely. You can stand on your head easily and

(see the advanced divers part to learn why getting rid of CO2

use it to peek into a shipwreck or another interesting place 

translates to lower gas consumption from the cylinder). The

PROPERLY ADJUSTED CROTCH STRAP – HIGH, COMFORTABLE POSITION ON THE WATER SURFACE.

CROTCH STRAP TOO LOOSE – LOW, UNCOMFORTABLE POSITION ON THE WATER SURFACE Photos on page Christian Caruso

PERFECTDIVER

No. 4(22)/2022

tips & curiosities ACADEMY

ability to raise your head freely at any time during your dive – this is the same movement you make to open up the airways when providing first aid; it makes you breathe effortlessly. Being able to control your position freely, open airway and the possibility to control the environment also translate into less stress and all this results in significantly lower gas consumption – even up to 30%. Simply adjust your crotch strap properly. If your gear shifts towards your head, you will lower your chin to the chest and partially obstruct the airway, increasing your gas consumption.

Photo Michał Motylewski

ADVANCED DIVER

Transporting and stabilizing the victim is way easier when

Contrary to what you might think, it is most often the advanced

a properly adjusted crotch strap length prevents the gear from

divers and instructors who can be seen with their crotch strap

shifting towards the head and the head itself can be easily

loosely dangling or even missing.

tilted backwards at any moment.

Here are some less obvious problems that can be easily eliminated by adjusting the crotch strap properly.

Stabilizing position and buoyancy control in multiple stage cylinders diving

Underwater and surface rescue

During multigas dives with multiple stage cylinders, the diver

When transporting a diver inside a shipwreck, cave or in open

should be able to assume the same positions as a OWD diver,

water, we use the so-called “sandwich”, where the rescue diver

still having a really good time. Think how many technical divers

is on the back of the rescued. During rescue we should keep

have you seen standing on their heads bejeweled with stage

the victim’s airways open. On the surface, whatever procedure

cylinders?

we use, we should open the victim’s airways (tilt the head back), give a series of rescue breaths and make sure to avoid secondary drowning, which means we keep the airways open and the head above the water.

This is no joke. Such position is part of rescue operations in caves and some shipwrecks. If the crotch strap has the proper length, it will stabilize the entire gear, preventing it from sliding towards the head,

A crotch strap that is too long, when coupled with a non-stan-

rapidly changing the trim, and the diver can easily change their

dard regulator configuration could block the victim’s head in

position as they wish without the risk of loosing control. The

a position that would prevent the airways from opening (due

more gear you have on you, the more important crotch strap

to the victim’s gear shifting high up their back).

adjustment becomes.

Rescue operation – oxygen poisoning victim. Even if we as-

If the crotch strap is too short (DPV d-ring between the

sume that during rescue it is enough to only minimally open

legs), then during diving with a DPV you may experience

the airways to prevent barotrauma and full respiratory action

a sensation of your trunk constantly lifting, which is danger-

will be restored on the surface, an overly long crotch strap may

ous during DPV dives in confined spaces. Moving the d-ring

needlessly complicate the rescue operation on the surface,

to the diver’s belly will significantly improve the position. In

preventing rescue breaths prior to removing the gear.

many harnesses, this can only be achieved by extending the

tips

& curiosities

ACADEMY

PHOTO OF

crotch strap, because the DPV d-ring is usually sewn and locked on the strap.

THE AUTHOR DURING A MA-

When doing boats dives with large 2×18 or 2×20

NY-HOUR DE-

twinsets, fasten the waist strap after passing it through

COMPRESSION

the crotch strap, leaving maximum freedom until you

AFTER DIVING

get into the water. This is because large sets with the

ON “HMHS

appropriate crotch strap length prevent you from seat-

BRITANNIC”

ing comfortably on the gear bank with your gear on. Leaving your belly strap only loosely secured for the time when you are getting prepared for entering the water is very helpful. Fasten the strap before entering the water! Gas consumption and inert gases narcosis The more complex the dive, the more important unrestricted breathing becomes, and its control largely depends on CO2 retention. An increase in CO2 level not only increases respiratory rate and the associated gas consumption, but also the risk related to a more “dynamic” course of inert gases narcosis. Increased CO2 levels may accelerate oxygen toxicity. Looking straight ahead, or keeping your head high up, causes the airways to open, which translates to increased safety at every stage of the dive.

HOW TO ADJUST YOUR CROTCH STRAP?

Photo Krzysztof Niecko

A more detailed description, with photos and additional information, can be found in the article “Harness adjust-

material you are interested in:

ment” in Perfect Diver issue 9 – just click and print the

https://issuu.com/perfectdiver/docs/pd_9_issue/68

Photos Bartek Trzciński

tips & curiosities ACADEMY

KNOWLEDGE CHECK 

An excessively short crotch strap may cause:

It is important to understand that proper length means neither

´ problems with putting the gear on both in the boat and in

the shortest nor excessively loose crotch strap. After reading

the water

the entire article, read the following list and try to answer the

´ difficulties in penetrating shipwrecks

question: “why does this happen?”.

´ assuming a vertical position when using a DPV

I encourage instructors to perform a similar analysis, extended with very precise but easy to understand explanations

How to become a better diver?

you may give to your students during your courses.

Your diving quality is impacted by three interdependent factors 1. Knowledge

An excessively long crotch strap may cause:

2. Experience

´ increased gas consumption

3. Gear

´ “seahorse” position

If you improve your gear’s functionality, it will have a positive

´ problems with opening up the airways during rescue

impact on your diving experience, thus enhancing the comfort

´ difficulties in swimming backwards

and safety of diving.

´ increased levels of inert gases narcosis ´ assuming a position with lowered knees

Adjust your gear to perfectly match your body and it will support all your diving ideas!

Photo Tomasz Płociński

DO YOU HAVE ANY DOUBTS? Visit the Tecline Academy  we will choose, adjust, show how to test your gear, but we will also improve your setup from any manufacturer! See you there! WAF 

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Perfect Diver Magazine 22 issue

Articles inside

GOZO I CHOOSE YOU!

HOW TO BECOME A BETTER DIVER?

AQABA IN JORDAN

ALL AROUND MALTA IN WEEK

Hanifaru Bay

CAN CONTACT WITH A CEPHALOPOD BE THERAPEUTIC?

Diving in the old NUTTLAR lime stone mine