Perfect Diver Magazine 41 issue Diving Freediving Passion Knowledge

5 (41)/2025

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diving freediving passion knowledge

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STRENGTH MEETS LIGHTNESS.

CHOOSE CARBON OR TITANUM

Wojciech Zgoła Editor-in-Chief

Dear Readers, this issue of Perfect Diver is truly special to me, as it was born out of the spirit of real adventure. The NordDive Expedition showed us that the greatest thrill begins where comfort ends – sleeping on the roof of a car, diving without infrastructure, complete independence and freedom. In such conditions, you feel that you are truly alive and truly diving.

I am also delighted to share that our editorial colleague, Przemek Zyber, achieved a remarkable success – his photo won the top award at the prestigious Gallipoli Wreck Festival. It proves that passion and sensitivity can speak through an image more powerfully than a thousand words.

We will also go back to the 1990s with Jarosław Sołoducha’s story about the cleaning of the Mały Staw in the Karkonosze mountains – one of the first examples of diving ecology put into practice.

There are more gems too – Lake Tałty presented by Jacek Kubiak, and the wreck of the ORP Bryza in the Gulf of Gdańsk.

And for dessert we’ve prepared equipment spreads, an article by Magda Sokołowska on artificial intelligence taking its first steps underwater, and a solid portion of knowledge about partial pressure.

In this issue you will also discover the lesser-known side of the Canary Islands, the legendary wreck of the SS Thistlegorm as seen by Sylwia and Adrian, an unforgettable encounter with sperm whales told by Barbara Glenc, and yet another Saxon quarry.

I invite you to dive into this issue. It is diverse, full of passion and inspiration. This is what an underwater adventure tastes like! Did you like this issue? Give us a viral coffee buycoffee.to/perfectdiver Visit our website www.perfectdiver.com, check out Facebook www.facebook.com/PerfectDiverMagazine and Instagram www.instagram.com/perfectdiver/

Publisher PERFECT DIVER Sp. z o.o. ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com ISSN 2545-3319

68 Why couldn’t I dry my laundry in Norway? Or: the basics of technical diving for Himalayan climbers… What is PARTIAL PRESSURE

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Technical Diver

World Geography & Travels

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WOJCIECH ZGOŁA TOMEK KULCZYŃSKI ANNA METRYCKA

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editorial team

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

A man who travels by diving. It all began with water. At the age of six, he learned to swim, and from that moment on, every moment spent by a lake or the sea became an opportunity to discover the secrets of nature. Later came sailing – at fifteen he earned his yacht sailor’s license, with the wind and the waves becoming his first teachers of freedom. In 2006 he went beneath the surface –and stayed there. Today, he has logged over 900 dives, both in lakes and wrecks in Poland and in distant, exotic destinations. He treats every immersion as a meeting – with Nature, with history, and with himself.

But Wojciech is not only a diver. He is also a storyteller, photographer, and the editor-in-chief of Perfect Diver magazine, as well as the creator of the portal dive-adventure.eu. He weaves words and images together to show the world the beauty hidden underwater and to encourage others to discover it for themselves.

He does not keep this passion to himself. He organizes and supports ecological initiatives, cleaning lakes and seas, because he believes that responsibility for nature begins with small steps –with leaving a place cleaner than it was found. He is a true lover of Nature in its purest form. He believes that diving is not just a sport, but also a way of building awareness – of the environment, of other people, and of oneself

For Tomek, diving has always been his greatest passion. He started his adventure at the age of 14, developing into a recreational and technical diving instructor, a first aid instructor and a diving industry technician. Currently, he runs the 5* COMPASS DIVERS Pobiedziska Diving Center near Poznań, where he passes his knowledge and skills to beginners and advanced divers, which gives him great joy and satisfaction from being part of their underwater adventure...

Infected with a passion for diving by Perfect Diver. She continues to expand her diving skills. Although she definitely prefers warm waters, she dons a dry suit and explores colder bodies of water as well. Her favorite dives are those with plenty of marine life! Recently, she’s been taking her phone underwater in a protective case, trying her hand at amateur photography. She’s also curious about diving medicine. Professionally, she’s a Master’s degree nurse and a surgical scrub nurse.

“Man! Get underwater. If the beauty you see down there doesn’t shake you to the core – then nothing in life ever will.” A passionate diver, Pisces by zodiac, and forever connected to water. I completed my first diving course at the age of 14, and I’ve never stopped diving since! :) I wrote my master’s thesis on dive tourism while studying geography at the University of Warsaw. Since 2013, I’ve been writing for nuras. info magazine and participating in underwater photo sessions. Since 2017, I’ve been contributing to Perfect Diver magazine (formerly under the name Ania Sołoducha), and for the past few years, I’ve also been part of the editorial team. I love sharing my knowledge and experience through writing, promoting what I love most – diving. For 13 years, I organized dive trips all around the world, because working with people and bringing them joy is what truly fulfills me. I take part in dive expos and events, and I also help with lake cleanups. I’ve had the pleasure of speaking at various expos and conferences, and I’ve hosted several diving webinars. I’ve dived in many places across the globe – and my dream list is still growing… See you above and below the surface!

divebyann@gmail.com

constant cooperation

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature. A graduate of journalism and a lover of good literature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian. Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and their protection are especially close to her heart. She writes about the subject in numerous articles and on her blog www.blog.dive-away.pl. She began her adventure with diving fifteen years ago by total coincidence. Today she is a diving instructor, she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

Zoopsychologist, researcher and expert in dolphin behavior, committed to the idea of protecting dolphins and fighting against keeping them in dolphinariums. Passionate about Red Sea and underwater encounters with large pelagic predators. Member of the Dolphinaria-Free Europe Coalition, volunteer of the Tethys Research Institute and Cetacean Research & Rescue Unit, collaborator of Marine Connection. For over 15 years, he has been participating in research on wild dolphin populations, auditing dolphinariums, and monitoring the quality of whale watching cruises. As the head of the "Free & Safe" project (formerly "NO! for a dolphinarium"), he prevents keeping dolphins in captivity, promotes ethical whale & dolphin watching, trains divers in responsible swimming with wild dolphins, and popularizes knowledge about dolphin therapy that is passed over in silence or hidden by profit-making centers. on this form of animal therapy.

ANNA METRYCKA

TOMEK KULCZYŃSKI

DOMINIKA ABRAHAMCZYK

JAKUB BANASIAK

SYLWIA KOSMALSKA-JURIEWICZ

He has been diving for 35 years. He has spent more than 16,000 hours underwater, most of them diving technically. He has been an instructor and mentor instructor for many organizations including CMAS, GUE, IANTD, PADI. He co-created the training programs for some of them. He is a professional with vast knowledge and practical experience. He has participated in many diving projects as a leader, explorer, initiator or speaker. He was the first Pole to dive the HMHS Britannic wreck (117m). He was the first to explore the deep part of the Glavas Cave (118m). He made a series of dives documenting the wreck of ORP GROM (110m). He has documented deep (100-120m) parts of flooded mines. He is the creator and designer of many equipment solutions to improve diving safety.

Technical Director at Tecline, where, among other things, he manages the Tecline Academy a research and training facility. Author of several hundred articles on diving and books on diagnosis and repair of diving equipment.

He dives in rivers, lakes, caves, seas and oceans all over the world.

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Academy of Physical Education (coaching specialization – handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and implementing research, pushing laboriously in the right direction of the stroller called science. In his free time he spends his time actively – his main passions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational diving and many other activities, as well as photography, mainly nature.

A long, long time ago in a galaxy far, far away there was chaos...

…that is, the multitude of thoughts and delights after my first immersion under water in 2005 in the form of INTRO while on vacation in Egypt. By then I had completely immersed myself in the underwater world and wanted it to have an increasing impact on my life. 2 years later, I took an OWD course, which I received as a gift for my 18th birthday, and over time, further courses and skills improvement appeared.

"Photography" appeared not much later, but initially in the form of a disposable underwater "Kodak" from which the photos came out stunningly blue 

I am not a fan of one type of diving, although my greatest weakness at the moment is for large pelagic animals. The Galapagos Islands were my best opportunity to photograph so many species of marine fauna so far.

I share my passion for diving and photography with my buddy, who is my wife  IG: luke.divewalker; www.lukedivewalker.com

Laura is a journalist, instructor trainer, CCR and cave diver. She has been developing her diving career for over a decade, gaining knowledge and experience in various fields. Her specialty is professional diving training, but her passion for the underwater environment and its protection drives her to explore various places around the world. From the depths of the Lombok Strait, caves in Mexico and wrecks in Malta to the Maldives, where she runs a diving center awarded by the Ministry of Tourism as the best diving center in the Maldives. Laura actively contributes to promoting the protection of the marine environment, takes part in scientific projects, campaigns against ocean littering and cooperates with non-governmental organizations. You can find her at @laura_kazi_diving www.divemastergilis.com

I photograph because I love it, I film because it excites me, I write because I enjoy sharing, I teach because I support growth, I travel because I love discovering new things. www.facebook.com/przemyslaw.zyber www.instagram.com/przemyslaw_zyber/ www.deep-art.pl

He has been diving forever, he does not remember his first dives. The only thing he remembers is that diving has always been his passion. He spent his entire childhood on Polish lakes, which he still prefers to distant destinations. With great success, he turned his passion into a way of life and business.

Curiosity of the world and constant striving for perfection are the main features that definitely hinder him in life. Professional diving instructor, photographer, filmmaker.

Creator of the DECO Diving Center, PADI Course Director, TecTrimix Instructor Trainer TECREC.

PRZEMYSŁAW ZYBER

WOJCIECH A. FILIP

WOJCIECH JAROSZ

ŁUKASZ METRYCKI / Luke Divewalker

LAURA KAZIMIERSKA

DOMINIK DOPIERAŁA

our authors

A salesperson by profession, a diver and traveler by passion. She has been diving since 2011. For 12 years, as a professional, she has been infecting successive generations of lovers of the deep sea with her passion. She started as a Divemaster and later an Instructor at PADI. In 2015, together with her husband, she founded her own diving school "Lionfish" in Pruszków near Warsaw. Since 2019, she has been associated with the Polish diving organization IDF. She achieves the greatest successes in initial training and her "hobby horse" is working with young diving enthusiasts. She loves underwater photography and traveling to the farthest corners of the world. www.lionfish.pl

An artistic soul, despite being a graduate of the Poznań University of Economics – Marketing and Management – as well as Manchester Metropolitan University in International Business Management. Connected to music since childhood, she has performed and danced on stage and in music videos. She has worked as a manager for wellknown singers and bands and choreographed dance routines for performances and videos. Today, she focuses on marketing in the music industry and conducts trainings on internet marketing, artificial intelligence, and virtual reality.

“I love diving – especially with sharks – as well as windsurfing, painting (my works have been exhibited in Poland and Spain), creating art installations, photography, baking cakes and cookies, exploring new places, learning, reading scientific books, playing computer and VR games, watching sci-fi and fantasy movies, decorating interiors, dancing, singing, and observing and experiencing the world and people.”

Is 45 years old and married, has been working professionally in the metallurgical industry for 25 years, has been diving since 2009 and diving has become a way of life and passion for him. He lives in Kętrzyn and is associated with the Mazursharks Club.

I am a traveler and a technical diver, exploring the world both on land and underwater. I have been diving for 16 years. Since I am a professional photographer, a camera has accompanied me from my very first dive. I started with recreational diving, but over time, I obtained full trimix and full cave certifications, allowing me to explore caves, wrecks, and great depths.

Underwater, I find a peace that is hard to experience on the surface.

Every dive is not just an adventure for me but also an opportunity to capture the extraordinary underwater world through photography.

barbaraglenc.foto@gmail.com

Always a traveler, since 2017 a diver. He dived for the first time in Menjangan National Park in Bali. The underwater world fascinated him so much that he started traveling to dive.

Divemaster after course and internship at Utila Dive Center in Honduras. He did his previous courses in strange places: OWD on Rarotonga, AOWD on the Canary Islands El Hierro, only Rescue more typically in the Polish Piechcin. He believes that the most beautiful things he has seen under water are Mexican cenotes.

Apart from diving, his great passion is mountains, multi-day trekking and easy climbing. He climbed, among others: in the Peruvian Andes, he climbed a six-thousander in the Himalayas.

Professionally related to IT and design. It ensures that websites, applications and services are more user-friendly than the PADI application.

I began my diving adventure in the 1990s by exploring Polish lakes. Since 2000, I have also been diving abroad – in Croatia, Egypt, France, Spain, Corsica, and Sardinia. Over the years, I have continued to improve my skills, ultimately achieving the Dive Master level in 2004.

On a daily basis, I dive in German quarries due to their proximity to my place of residence. I have passed on my passion to my daughter, with whom I have the pleasure of diving. I have often organized private diving trips for friends and also had the opportunity to act as a trip leader on behalf of a tour operator.

My greatest diving dreams are Indonesia, the Dutch Antilles (Curaçao), and Mexico – which I will visit this year.

MAGDALENA SOKOŁOWSKA

ANNA PASZTA

PIOTR ADAMIAK

BARBARA GLENC

JAROSŁAW SOŁODUCHA

JACEK KUBIAK

Scandinavia, and especially Norway, remains largely wild, raw, and demanding – but precisely because of that, it is so fascinating and beautiful.

EXPEDITION NordDive

Text WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

Photos DOMINIKA ABRAHAMCZYK, WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

Norway – a Land Sculpted by Nature

Norway is a land sculpted by the forces of Nature over millions of years. Rugged, rocky mountains arose here from tectonic plate collisions, and later the land was literally ploughed by glaciers. It is these glaciers that gave Norway its distinctive and incredibly diverse coastline – full of fjords and deep inlets cutting so far into the land that it is sometimes hard to tell whether you are looking at a freshwater lake or a saltwater bay. You have to drive up, touch it with your finger, and even taste it ;)

Scandinavia, and especially Norway, remains largely wild, raw, and demanding – but precisely because of that, it is so fascinating and beautiful. Dive sites here are often chosen randomly, guided by intuition or a road map, yet almost always it turns out that the waters below are teeming with life.

That was the plan – to head north through Scandinavia, diving in its waters, sleeping in a tent on the car roof, cooking our own meals, and stopping wherever the soul and heart suggested, while reason nodded along gently. And so, nights were spent by a babbling mountain stream, by a lakeshore, on a forest clearing, or at the edges of majestic fjords. Each place was different, and each was unique. Along the way, we picked berries, observed wildlife, and marvelled at northern flora – well, with the slight exception of uninvited companions like horseflies and mosquitoes.

First Steps in the North

We set off from Poland through Germany to Denmark, to catch a late-night ferry in Hirtshals. After less than three hours of gentle rocking, the waves carried us to Kristiansand – the first gateway to Norway. We drove off the deck and headed inland toward Evje. The road passed through forests, and the night was already dense and quiet when suddenly, on the roadside, there he was a moose, enormous and majestic, with wide antlers. For a moment, he stood still, as if his mere presence confirmed that we had truly arrived in the land of the North. Soon after, he entered the forest and disappeared.

The journey ahead was not easy. The “Park4night” app suggested various spots, but all were occupied. Finally, around four in the morning, we found a cleared forest area. We set up our tent on the roof and almost immediately fell asleep, the first Norwegian morning was to begin right there.

In the morning, though still very sleepy, we set up the stove and heated water for coffee, a ritual that always tastes best in the outdoors. The morning greeted us with gentle sunshine and birdsong, and a quick breakfast gave us the energy to continue north toward Stavanger.

Driving in Norway requires focus. Speed limits are strict, and even minor violations can result in hefty fines. Roads can also be narrow, so every now and then you need to pull aside to let an oncoming car pass. But this isn’t burdensome,

it’s part of the journey, because around every bend a new view opens up: forests, rivers, lakes, and green meadows, making the drive itself a form of sightseeing. Looking at the waters we passed, it was hard to resist the urge to peek beneath their surface. In Norway, almost every turn leads to a potential dive site, whether a crystal-clear lake or a fjord inlet. This awareness makes diving gear in the trunk less a burden and more a tempting promise of the next underwater adventure.

This time, we spent the night in Faråni, right by a river dotted with large, smooth boulders. The app had suggested this spot, and it was a perfect choice, with a view of the murmuring water, ideal for preparing a one-pot dinner. In the morning, after finally a full night’s sleep, the table held scrambled eggs with kabanos sausages on pumpernickel, a simple but hearty meal that tastes best under the open sky.

The road then took us through vast green forests, dotted with countless rivers, streams, and other bodies of water. The shades of green were a feast for the eyes, the cawing of crows filled the ears, and along the roadside, foxes and cranes appeared, as if part of the everyday landscape. Such scenes are soothing, the mind slows down, catches the rhythm of the place, and immerses in the calm, Norwegian way of life.

Stavanger – the Heart of the Fjords

In the evening, we arrived in Stavanger, where Paweł and Monika welcomed us. They invited us to stay for the whole weekend, and we gladly accepted, after all, the tent roof isn’t the only kind of home on the road. I must add that Monika made a delicious

fish soup from an old Norwegian recipe. But we couldn’t wait for diving, especially since Paweł immediately mentioned a spot where one could encounter extraordinary residents of Norwegian waters: the wolf fish. He had written about them in issue no. 39 of Perfect Diver.

Meeting the Sawshark

It was a warm Friday evening when Ala and Mirek joined our team. The road to the water wound endlessly, left, right, uphill, downhill – until, after about an hour of driving, we finally arrived at the site (Dirdal). We parked right by the sea and began setting up the equipment. Paweł and Mirek told us about the dive site, conducted a briefing, and immediately heightened the excitement, this was where a sawshark could appear, small sharks that usually live at depths of up to 200 meters. We hoped to see them, so the plan was to descend to about 40 meters.

All dressed in dry suits, ready for the cold, we checked our primary and backup lights – our GRALmarine gear gave us complete peace of mind. The entry was tricky, strewn with rocks, so every step required attention. We gathered one last time on the surface, just before descending. A light breeze, calm sea, the scent of salt in the air. Final “OK” checks and… down we went.

The water near the surface was a pleasant 19°C. Immediately, we were surrounded by swaying brown algae, schools of small fish, dozens of starfish, and crabs. The typical colours of underwater Norway dominated – browns, russets, reds, and burgundies. With every minute, with every meter

deeper, the landscape became richer, flounders and weevers appeared, and the numbers of sea urchins and starfish increased.

At 30–35 meters, we saw the first glimmers – “cat eyes” reflecting the beams of our lights. Saw sharks! Small, calm, and majestic sharks glided just above the seabed. We angled our lights slightly downward so as not to startle the hosts of this place. I managed to catch up to two individuals, trying to get a good shot, but they swam away as if playing tag.

We descended to 40 meters and for a while filmed these extraordinary creatures. Ling, massive crabs, and more saw sharks joined the scene. The awareness that we were interacting with fish that usually inhabit inaccessible depths added a special magic to this encounter.

I managed to get a few shots, mostly from above, the saw sharks are not easily approached. It was time to ascend, so we slowly started our ascent, taking one last look at the underwater world. What we saw along the way was just as enchanting as the sharks themselves – the richness of colours, shapes, and species was immense.

Back on the surface, we regrouped. One glance was enough to know we all felt the same – wide, genuine smiles wouldn’t leave our faces. This was a dive to remember: around ten saw sharks, five species of crabs, wolffish, flounders, and countless

other creatures that together form the unique mosaic of Norwegian waters.

Such moments cement the team and make everyone crave more, because if the first shared dive gave us this much, what would the next ones bring? An added thrill was the temperature: at forty meters, the water was only 13°C, in stark contrast to the pleasant 19°C at the surface. Norway immediately showed that it can be beautiful, but demanding.

The City and Its Surroundings

The weekend in Stavanger proved extremely diverse. Paweł and Monika showed us their city and its surroundings. We strolled along the harbour and the old town, where narrow streets and whitewashed houses with characteristic roofs transport you to the atmosphere of old Norway. On the outskirts, we saw houses with Viking shields mounted on the walls beneath the windows. Nearby, we visited a reconstructed Viking settlement from the end of the Iron Age, standing on the hill, it was clear why they chose this spot. From here, they had a view of the entire area and full control over the valleys and waters below.

We were also impressed by the highest plateau in the area, Preikestolen – the famous “Pulpit Rock,” 604 meters above Lysefjord, which promised one of the most spec-

tacular views in Norway. The weather changed like a kaleidoscope: one moment the sun shone through, the next rain covered us, and then sunlight sparkled on the droplets of falling water. The trail to the top led over rocky paths and stone steps, and anticipation grew with every step. Unfortunately, the summit was shrouded in thick fog. It was so dense that in such conditions, neither the fjord nor the surrounding mountains could be seen, only a white expanse. On a clear day, the view from here is truly breathtaking.

A short but demanding trail led to Hengjanefossen waterfall. From the first steps, we realized this would not be an ordinary walk, steep climbs, rocky steps, and chains to hold for balance. The reward for us was the growing sound of water falling nearly 100 meters down, echoing throughout the valley. Along the way, we passed tourists from around the world, conversations in multiple languages could be heard, but there was a shared atmosphere of excitement. After about 450 meters of climbing, we were greeted by the waterfall in its full glory –a massive cascade, white with foam, plunging down the narrow gorge of the rocky wall. But it didn’t end there, you could climb several hundred meters further to the top of the mountain from which the waterfall originates. The experience was complete: the power of nature, changing weather, the effort of the climb, and the joy of reaching such heights.

Norway is not just landscapes, it’s also flavours. In Stavanger, we discovered that local strawberries have an entirely different, intense aroma and taste, impossible to find elsewhere. We also tried cream with 40% fat content, thick, creamy, and almost melting on the tongue. And waffles, which in this part of Norway are almost a national treat.

RIB Cruise through Lysefjord

The last day of the weekend was reserved by Mirek and Paweł. They had prepared the real cherry on top. They had booked a fast RIB boat long in advance and took us to the harbour in the morning. We boarded, joined by Alicja and Monika. The plan was simple: a full day on the water: diving, searching for seals, and a barbecue on a rocky ledge accessible only from the sea. The RIB rides themselves were an adventure, not short hops, but nearly hour-long cruises where we felt the wind on our faces and the salty taste of water on our lips. We sailed between fjords, even going under a waterfall, passing a hanging bridge, and observing young seals playing in the water. The fjords seen from the sea were incredibly impressive, especially as we passed the monumental cliff of Preikestolen, this time bathed in full sunlight. Our first dive was right here (Lysefjord), nearby at Alaskårvika, where underwater life thrived differently than along the shore.

After surfacing, we paused for a longer break: grilled scallops, sunbathing, and keeping watch with our cameras to capture the seals. The surface water temperature reached 18°C, but at 32 meters, it dropped to just 8°C. Visibility hovered around 20 meters. We didn’t encounter any saw shark, but the enormous crabs and jellyfish made up for the absence of sharks.

The second dive took place at Kallasteinnesset, a spot chosen spontaneously, “by instinct.” The location didn’t promise anything special, but underwater, adventure awaited again. This was the coldest spot: 15°C at the surface and only 10°C at ten meters and visibility turned out to be the lowest of all our dives. The harsh conditions contrasted with the warm sun above, yet they still gave the sense that we were exploring a piece of Norway that most people would never see.

The weekend in Stavanger was full of contrasts and varied experiences.

On one hand, the raw nature: fjords, plateaus, and waterfalls; on the other, the warm atmosphere of meeting people and discovering the city with Paweł and Monika. Underwater, we encountered saw sharks, crabs, and weevers, while on the surface we marvelled at the harbour, the old town, and Viking history. Add to that a RIB ride between fjords, playful seals, grilled scallops, and long post-dive conversations, and the weekend became a complete mosaic of experiences.

On land, it was equally special. We walked barefoot along Orrestrand Beach in the Jæren region, where golden sand contrasts with the cold North Sea. There, we treated ourselves to delicious cream ice cream with cocoa sprinkles, a simple pleasure that tasted extraordinary in this setting. Stavanger and its surroundings left a lasting impression, a place that combines the power of nature, the richness of underwater life, and small, every-

day joys, creating an image of Norway that makes you want to stay longer.

Road 55 – Rugged Scandinavia

We felt great in Stavanger, but we didn’t want to overstay our welcome. Besides, we were already longing for the heart of nature. Worried by the weather forecast, we moved on, leaving Haugesund behind and heading toward Dombås. Mountains rose ahead of us, and the weather started to turn: rain, wind, and temperatures no higher than 20°C. In the following days, we experienced all seasons – from sunshine to downpours to snowball fights. We had no fixed plan. The weather dictated our decisions: sunny moments meant stopping by the water to make the most of it; rainy moments meant driving onward.

Unfortunately, many of the spots suggested by the “Park4night” app were occupied. Finally, in the evening, we entered the mountains. The wind tossed the car, and patches of snow loomed in the distance. We decided to leave the asphalt. Dominika walked ahead of the car, checking that the ground wasn’t too soft. After a few dozen meters, we reached a small clearing, slightly elevated from the road. Nearby, a brisk stream cascaded past in a curve, and right beside us stretched a tiny patch full of blueberries. In the morning, we picked them by

the handful and devoured them with pleasure, with their local 40% cream.

Prayers to Saint Expedite were answered: just in time for pitching the tent, a cold shower, and dinner, the rain eased. This happened throughout the trip: short weather windows appeared exactly when we needed them most. Leaving the road, we lost signal, no internet, no GPS, and the night at around 900 meters above sea level was chilly – barely 8°C. We slept in our Perfect Diver merino hats, BARE socks from the SB warmer (fantastic), and under a 50-złoty thermal blanket, which proved lifesaving.

The morning was crisp and did not promise blazing sunshine. We moved quickly, knowing the rain would return soon. We continued onward – without internet, without GPS guidance – through the mountains toward Dombås and beyond. Road 55, also known as Sognefjellet, is an absolutely extraordinary stretch of Norway: the highest mountain road in all of Scandinavia, winding above 1400 meters. Entering it felt like stepping into another dimension. The wind was sharp and piercing, carrying the scent of snow and rocks, and constantly playing in our ears like a living instrument. Streams ran on both sides of the road, sometimes wide and calm, sometimes rushing and cascading straight from melting ice sheets. Every now and then, we passed lakes of emerald or steel-grey colour, surrounded by rugged slopes. Vegetation was low and stunted, seemingly still fighting for survival – herbaceous willows, delicate woolly plants swaying in the wind, and patches of moss stubbornly growing where nothing seemed able to grow.

Our most frequent companions on the road were sheep, sometimes entire flocks moving leisurely, often directly on the asphalt, as if to remind us who really ruled the land. We stopped for a short break, just a few minutes to set up the stove and make coffee. Sipped from metal mugs, the coffee cooled surprisingly fast in the mountain chill but tasted like no other – intensely, with hints of wind, altitude, and silence. This was a moment that would linger in memory: just us, the mountains, the wind, and coffee whose aroma mingled with the raw air of Sognefjellet.

Beyond the Arctic Circle

Due to the weather, or rather, the constant rain, we decided to head for Mo i Rana, and from there further, beyond the Arctic Circle. After three days of traveling and searching for weather windows, setting up and taking down our “home on the roof” had become smooth and almost automatic. It’s truly an interesting way to travel, offering freedom and flexibility, though it has its drawbacks – especially the proximity to the road. A car with a tent doesn’t insulate as well as a camper. The best solution proved to be pitching near a waterfall or stream, whose rushing waters effectively drowned out the noise of passing cars. Supplies were also an interesting challenge. By now, we knew some would make it back to Poland with us, but meatballs, pasta, rice, and cucumber soup went first.

And I almost forgot! Even before Dombås, we encountered another moose, this time a large female. It was 1:00 p.m., rain drizzled from the sky, and she calmly nibbled on the edge of the forest. Dominika had a “must-see” list for Northern Scandinavia: moose, saw sharks, seals… We had already checked off all three, so now it was just a matter of waiting for reindeer.

Paradoxically, the closer we got to the Arctic Circle, the warmer it became. When we finally reached the Arctic Circle Centre, we were greeted by sunshine and 26°C. We visited the exhibition, watched a film, treated ourselves to a small snack, and went for a longer walk across the surrounding wilderness. Standing exactly on the symbolic “Circle” was special – a sense that we had truly reached far into the North.

Sweden – Lakes and the Return

We drove even further north to Røkland. We refilled water and fuel, bought the last Norwegian ice creams, and set off on the return journey through Sweden. We took road 77. The “Park4night” app once again suggested places to stay, but all spots were taken.

Frustration grew, but as often happens “every cloud has a silver lining.” That’s when we spotted our first reindeer! For the next two hours, we left road 77 and, roughly following our planned direction, wove through gravel roads. And it was perfect, because besides stunning landscapes, we kept encountering reindeer. There were white ones, brown ones, grey-brown ones… and one looked like it came straight out of a fairy tale: “Rudolf”! Well, perhaps more like his cousin. In total, we counted thirteen.

As it grew grey, around 11:00 p.m., we pulled over by a lake. Later we found out it was Sweden’s deepest lake: Hornavan (221 m). Signs indicated that fishing was allowed, you just scan a QR code and pay for a license. This meant morning anglers, and indeed, they appeared punctually the next day.

After several days of rain, we finally hit decent weather and most importantly, found a spot where a safe entry to the water was just five meters from the car. After breakfast, we jumped into our gear. The water was 20°C with good visibility. There were plenty of fry swimming around, and we also noticed crayfish. Pike preferred to keep their distance, but perch, solid, 40–45 cm approached curiously, posing for the cameras. This

is the magic of trips like this: you sleep wherever you can, cook in the wild, dive into lakes, and become part of the world you are exploring.

Air Management

We tried to manage our air wisely. In these conditions, we mostly dived to 10–12 meters, so one cylinder was enough for two safe dives, sometimes three shorter ones. When air ran low, we looked online for a local dive club with a compressor and went to refill.

Important: The cylinder must be certified, and they often ask for a certificate allowing you to dive in a dry suit.

Return Home

Step by step, we made our way south, stopping for overnight stays along the route. One of the longer breaks was in Ham-

marsbadet, where we couldn’t resist a swim in the Baltic Sea. The water was refreshing, and the moment was symbolic, it marked the return to familiar seas. Then it was just a matter of boarding the ferry in Karlskrona and heading for the final stage of the journey – home.

The expedition through Norway and Sweden was a journey full of contrasts, from fjords and plateaus, to encounters with moose, seals, and reindeer, to diving in icy waters and swimming in the Baltic. Our rooftop home allowed us to stop wherever the heart guided us, and coffee in the mountains or scrambled eggs with kabanos sausages tasted like the finest meals in the world. The North taught us flexibility, the weather changed plans, but also opened doors to unexpected adventures. It was a trip where we became part of nature, and it generously shared its beauty with us.

And the truth is – we want more :)

If you think this story is about a wonderful holiday on the blue Turkish coast, where the morning breeze gently brushes your face and encourages you to wake up at a decent hour… Where the sun kisses the horizon and hides in the calm orange glow of the sea, wrapping you in its last warm rays and rocking you to sleep. Where steel titans hidden in the misty depths of the sea arrange themselves perfectly in the frame, begging you to uncover their stories and handing you the winning shot on a silver platter… YOU COULDN’T BE MORE WRONG!

This is not a story for the faint-hearted. Rather, it’s for those who enjoy goosebumps, thrills, and adrenaline. What we experienced during the competition could make a perfect script for a suspense movie, keeping you on the edge of your seat from the opening to the very last credits. I’m not talking about the organization itself – it was top-notch – but about what felt like a conspiracy of all the Sea Gods against us. They served us extreme conditions and slapped us wave after wave straight in the face.

But let’s start from the beginning Picture this: early June, I’m living my calm everyday life when suddenly – ding! –a message from none other than Alex Dawson.

Yes, THAT Alex – my underwater photography idol. The one who takes those insane wide-angle shots of caves and wrecks that I absolutely adore. I couldn’t

believe my eyes. I thought: “Someone’s pulling my leg… or Messenger has gone crazy.”

But no – it was real! Alex nominated me for the Gallipoli Wreck Fest 2025 – a competition with only 9 of the world’s top underwater photographers. And out of them, one is crowned: The Best. Sounds like the Champions League final, except instead of a stadium, we’ve got World War I wrecks lying at 85 meters deep! Exactly – 85 meters! This isn’t “splashing around with a GoPro.” At that depth, your camera housing feels like someone sat an elephant on it. At that depth, there are no jokes.

Add in special gas mixes, a rebreather, an underwater scooter – in short, a James Bond special mission.

Even though the competition date clashed with a dream trip to the Maldives, diving among hundreds of mantas, I decided to accept Alex’s invitation. It is an absolute honor to stand shoulder

to shoulder with the best photographers in the world. Without hesitation, I confirmed my participation.

Only 90 days to the competition!

And I can’t say “a whole 90 days,” because the sheer amount of work ahead of me was enough to keep me up at night. The invitation also covered a model to accompany me on this special mission. I knew that to stand a chance, I needed the perfect model – someone with the required certifications, flawless buoyancy, and photographic awareness. A diver who would not only look good but also serve as my safety support. My first thought was Michał Rachwalski. We’ve known each other for a long time. He’s been my technical instructor since the start of my CCR journey. We’ve done dozens of dives together. We understand each other without words. And he’s also a great photographer. Could it get any better?

Michał agreed without hesitation, excited by the opportunity to take part in such a major event. But he very rightly pointed out – as I would later realize – that my sidemount CCR wasn’t suitable for this mission. Imagine: waves, currents, and you’re in

the water trying to gear up with 4 tanks, a scooter, and a camera. You’d be exhausted before even descending – like a turtle after a marathon.

“You need to switch your CCR for this event.”

“No way!!! I’ve been diving my SM CCR for 3 years, I feel perfectly comfortable in it. I’ve logged hundreds of hours. And now, just 3 months before the event, I’m supposed to change everything, get new certifications, and dive deep on an unfamiliar unit???”

But since Michał is an instructor on almost every CCR unit out there, he advised me on which one to choose and lent it to me. I spent every free moment training. At the quarries in Jaworzno, they were seeing me more often than their own staff. Then we went to Lake Hańcza, where I completed MOD 2 (normoxic trimix) at 80 meters. Next, at Attersee, I did MOD 3 (hypoxic trimix) and hit 120 meters. That gave me all the certifications and the green light to compete.

But this was just the beginning…

Certifications aren’t everything. I needed a new drysuit, since my old one had done hundreds of dives and was worn out from

squeezing through caves. So, I reached out to Santi, and without a second thought, they said: “Come over, we’ll make you a brand-new Elite+ in express mode.”

As always, Kuba’s precise measurements and personal adjustments resulted in a perfectly fitting suit. Underwater I felt like I was in tracksuits – comfort, ease, and above all, safety.

What drives you?

Another message from Alex: “You need a scooter! On these wrecks, the currents like to play tricks.”

That’s just what I was missing! Depth, a new CCR, a scooter in one hand, and a giant camera in the other. Another sleepless night trying to piece it all together. Luckily, I found support here too. Seacraft immediately extended a helping hand. They configured a scooter exactly to my needs. A mounted adapter to hold the camera freed up one hand – so necessary for operating my diving gear. My model was also equipped with a powerful scooter and lighting.

I was ready :)

In those 90 days, I managed to put together all the puzzle pieces, ensuring full comfort and safety for a photoshoot at such depths. Since Michał had to leave urgently for Greece right after our last training dive, he decided to drive his own van –2,500 km to Çanakkale, where the competition was held. That also simplified the logistics of the massive amount of gear we were bringing. For the first time in my underwater photography journey, at the airport, I had just one suitcase and no overweight hand luggage. :)

A short, two-hour flight to Istanbul. On arrival, I was greeted by the organizers, cameramen, and photographers. They welcomed me like a VIP. A quick ride to the hotel, where we waited for all participants to arrive. In the evening, a welcome dinner. The next morning, two minibuses took us all east towards Çanakkale. The atmosphere was super relaxed. Everyone chatting and laughing, as if this weren’t a competition for the title of the world’s best photographer.

Until the moment when!!!

In the evening, we went to the official opening of the Gallipoli Wreck Fest 2025, held in a magnificent castle – once a fortress defending the strait against enemies. The massive cannons still pointing out to sea hinted at where we’d be heading for our sessions. A presentation of the program, the rules, and then the draw. Slips of paper in urns reminded us that the time for fun was over. From this moment on, every dive had to be carefully planned. The draw grouped three teams – photographer and model – and assigned them to one of three boats. The mood noticeably turned serious. At Alex’s words – “Let the games begin” – I felt goosebumps. As the only team, Michał and I headed to our boat at sunset to prepare all our gear for the check dive.

Need some blood?!

We drove to the port. We were ready, while others took three hours preparing their gear. Then, a two-hour boat ride to our

shallow wreck for the check dive. Alex looked worried. He said there’s always wind blowing the wrong way here. Was he sensing what was about to happen?

We moored to a huge buoy, chained to a massive anchor block on the seafloor. Martin from Slovakia jumped first. Before his head even went under, he was already 10 meters away from the boat. The current!!! A massive current!!! Trying to strap on three tanks in that current was brutal. To avoid such a fight, we put all our gear on while still sitting on the boat’s edge. Just standing up and walking 1.5 meters to the water was a heroic effort. But at least we didn’t have to battle in the water. Jump. The crew handed me the scooter with the mounted camera.

Spear down!!!

To avoid fighting the surface current, we descended at full scooter power straight to the bottom. The wreck looked more like scattered puzzle pieces, but this was only the check dive. During the one-hour dive, the current grew even stronger. The scooter was on full power, ripping fins off our feet. Slowly, we ascended towards the buoy’s chain. We saw its massive links slacken and drop to the bottom, then snap tight like a guitar string. What on earth was happening above? Keeping our distance from the chain, we headed toward the boat’s ladder. But why was it appearing and disappearing?!

I tried to approach from the stern, avoiding the ladder. But powerful waves and current shoved me under the boat. This was no longer fun – this was a fight for survival! The ladder, like a guillotine, slammed up and down with brutal force, while the current tried to suck me beneath it. I thought, “This is the dumbest way to die. To be killed by a ladder at one meter depth. Straight into the Darwin Awards.” After a desperate struggle, I surfaced a few meters away from the deadly trap. Around us, several coast guard boats with sirens blaring.

On the surface, chaos reigned. People on the boat shouted commands in panic.

They yelled: “Get away!!!”

It turned out strong winds had ripped the mooring line, and the boat was drifting freely in massive waves. They couldn’t start the engine, because divers were under the hull. I was sent to another boat, where I safely exited the water using a lift. I was shaken. This was supposed to be a day of perfect diving weather, yet conditions were only set to get worse in the coming days. Chaos everywhere. Frightened people rushing around the boat. My model boarded another vessel. Exhausted, sweaty, and stinking, with no chance to change out of my undersuit or into dry clothes, I was at least grateful that both I and my photo gear made it out in one piece.

Not everyone is that lucky :(

Unfortunately, Caroline from Mexico, while climbing out of the water, grabbed the ladder the wrong way. Anyone who’s been on a dive safari knows there’s one spot where you never put your hand behind the ladder, because when the boat rocks, it will chop your fingers off without hesitation. Luck in misfortune, the ladder only crushed two fingers on her left hand instead of severing all four. She was rushed by speed-

boat straight to the hospital, where top surgeons were already waiting and immediately began operating.

Sadly, Caroline is out of the competition due to injury. Michael from Austria wasn’t lucky either. His dive gear baggage, instead of arriving in Istanbul, ended up in Vienna. Despite desperate attempts, the luggage couldn’t be delivered, so he also had to withdraw. That leaves us the “Magnificent Seven.”

Rule change!

After that terrifying first dive, the mood turned tense. How could anyone dive to 85 meters in such conditions and complete a 90-minute decompression?

The meeting with all the participants ended with a rule change. Two boats would head to shallow wrecks, where dives could end without decompression. And for the brave, the third boat would stick to the plan and go to the 85-meter wreck. Guess which option we chose?

Another surprise!

Of course, we went for the 85 meters. With a partner like Michał, I felt safe. He immediately made a bungee loop that we could clip from the scooter’s bow to the anchor chain, letting us hang like flags in the strong current until decompression was over. I boarded the boat, checked: scooter, photo rig, full dive gear – all ready. We sailed for two hours. Martin went in first, we followed 30 minutes later. As Martin jumped, I started preparing. I looked for my scooter. Gone. I asked where it was. Turns out, during the reshuffling of teams between boats, it was accidentally taken.

That’s it! Game over!

No dive for me! Michał started unzipping his drysuit. In these conditions, diving without a scooter was simply impossible. They offered me a different scooter, but mine had the photo adapter. Diving with a scooter in one hand and the massive camera in the other? Out of the question. And clipping into the chain during deco with both hands busy? That’s begging for death, or for destroying or losing the camera.

„Smith”, options!

Luckily, the crew sent inquiries to the other boats about my scooter. It was found, only two hours from our location ;) The coast guard brought it over by speedboat, and I could dive! God, I could dive! And finally focus on the photos. We descended at full throttle. At 55 meters, the water was crystal clear. Below that…

A nasty surprise :( Foggy, visibility only 7–10 meters. The wreck, shrouded in mist, refused to reveal its secrets. Massive. Perfectly preserved, as if it had sunk yesterday. Only the wealth and diversity of corals gave away the passage of time. We cruised over the wreck, playing on scooters like kids, searching for the best photo spot. The bow – definitely the bow would be the most beautiful to capture. But time was short; decompression waits for no one and promises a long “relaxation” session hanging at safety stops, so we had to hurry.

After a few shots at the bow, the signal came: “Turn back.” But this time we were ready for Neptune’s duel. Strong currents, dancing anchor chain – nothing could surprise us now. Like a redand-white flag, we clipped in on the bungee, floating through a 90-minute decompression.

What an incredible feeling, surfacing safely onto the boat without coast guard backup or panic-stricken shouts. After the check dive, everyone feared going back in, but it wasn’t bad at all. On the contrary – Michał’s deco idea worked 100%. I had my first shots. And although others complained about the fog, I was satisfied – I had something. Still, the hunger remained. The desire to capture the entire mighty wreck was dashed by the milky viz. Oh well… tomorrow is another day.

On the second day of the competition, more reshuffling between participant boats. For us it was easy – we stayed on the same boat and once again headed to the deepest wreck. This time 74 meters. We were the third team in, so we took our time, enjoying Turkish coffee. Conditions were the same as before; nothing could surprise us anymore. Or could it…

Where’s the wreck?

We descend to the bottom. Milky water, visibility similar to before. But no wreck in sight. I look around, not sure which way to go. Luckily, in the distance I spot a faint light. It’s the earlier team heading back from their session. I swim toward them. Michał, without hesitation, ties a line to the chain and leads it straight to the wreck. As it turns out, a brilliant idea. We circle the wreck. Massive guns, poised as if ready to fire, guard the ship’s secrets. The view is majestic. After a few

photos, we calmly return along the guideline to the anchor chain, and once again we hang, swinging for an hour and a half, staring at the links.

Last chance

After the second day’s session, I long for clear water. Enough of wrecks shyly hiding in the fog. I want it plain and simple –a wreck I can capture from bow to stern. Alex confirms that tomorrow we’ll dive a wreck at 55 meters, with wonderful visibility, no currents, sheltered in a calm bay. A short 20-minute sail.

Perfect – I’m rubbing my hands together :)

All the shallow-diving photographers are thrilled with the visibility, confident in their shots. Me? Well, things look foggy

for me, literally. But no problem – I’ll use this last chance to get crystal-clear shots. Until it turns out… we’re mooring at a wreck lying at 72 meters. Wait, what? Are you kidding me? Damn it, really?! I think – I’m done for. No chance against the photographers who’ve had perfect viz for three days straight. Frustration floods me like a tsunami.

This is the end!

Resigned, I descend to the bottom. The wreck lies upside down. My last chance for clear, beautiful shots has sunk, along with my hopes of a podium finish. Nothing I can do, I think. One last time, I give it my all. You did what you could. Conditions are what they are. You can’t fight them. Disappointed and painfully

aware of defeat, I hang on deco, staring one last time at the dancing chain links. On the way back we quickly strip down the gear, so Michał can dash off to Greece, where friends are already waiting.

I’m left alone

The feeling of failure hunts me down like prey. No, I can’t give in. I sit down to edit photos. I have to squeeze every drop of quality out of the RAWs I shot. I didn’t come this far to wallow in self-pity. I won’t give them that satisfaction. Quick selection. You need six good photos! Just six – that’s all the jury requires. I pick two from each wreck. In Lightroom, I slide the sliders like a DJ at a party. Sharpening, white balance, contrast, cleaning, adding structure. Fighting like Goliath in an uneven battle.

Yes! I think I’ve got it :)

I finally reach the point where the photos satisfy me. Yes, I can hand them to the jury. That evening, when all the photos are in and judged, we gather together. All participants. It’s clear the tension is lifting. Laughter, relaxation, conversations. We’re once again the same team we were before drawing names from the urn. A wonderful evening.

The day

The previous night was sleepless, just like the ones before. The storm of emotions is unbearable. In the evening, the official award dinner begins. Preparations are in full swing. LED screens, rows of tables under the open sky, and the amazing aroma of a lit grill – it’s almost time. At 8 p.m., the event kicks off with a recap of our battle. A beautiful film of all our struggles. Dozens of people, press, TV… but everyone’s waiting for that one moment. Who will take 3rd, 2nd, and that priceless 1st place?

Do I expect anything?

Yes, at least 3rd place, as a reward for being the only team to stick to the original rules until the very end. For enduring the harsh conditions. For the fog blurring every frame day after day. Silence falls. Third place goes to Martin. Well I think, that’s it for me. What was I expecting? These are professional photographers. Sadness engulfs me. Second place – Maxim. I’m happy for him; he deserves it. Beautiful shots. I think to myself, the first place must surely go to Steffen Scholz from Germany. He’s the king of wreck photography.

First place goes to… Silence. An awkward silence. The presenter says: “I can’t read what’s written here…?”

Goosebumps. No one in the room can pronounce my name. Stumbling over the “P,” he struggles with the “rz,” then “emyslaw” comes out fairly smoothly… and finally… Zajber. A wave of heat rushes through me!

I can’t believe it. Is this a dream?!

Seriously? I’ve just won first place in the world!!! Competing shoulder to shoulder with the best photographers out there? This can’t be real. I lost faith after the third dive that it was even possible. And yet! To the sound of fanfares, I step onto the stage in disbelief, blinded by reporters’ flashes as I accept the first-place award. Shock mixes with euphoria and pure disbelief. My joy feels immeasurable, like space-time itself. This must be the happiest day of my life! Well… apart from the birth of my sons.

I call my wife. We’re both overjoyed. I don’t even know what we’re happier about – the first prize, or the fact that I survived these insanely emotional dives. Then I call Michał, already celebrating in Crete. Then Wojtek, editor of Perfect Diver. I can’t talk long – there will be time later. Now the gala continues, and fellow participants crowd around me, shaking my hand, congratulating me. These are unforgettable moments.

Time to go home

But one more surprise awaits. For days I’ve been asking for a chance to eat a real Turkish kebab. I’ve been to Turkey many times, and only here does it taste this good. Just minutes before my flight, the organizer takes me to an amazing Turkish restaurant and makes my kebab dream come true. I savor it like a child with a favorite lollipop. These are precious moments. I still can’t believe what just happened. This truly is the most wonderful, most thrilling adventure of my life!

Gallipoli Çanakkale

This region of Turkey is incredible. Though I’ve visited Turkey many times, this place has captivated me. Here, history intertwines with breathtaking landscapes, relaxation, and the amazing food Turkey is famous for. Mighty fortresses guarding the strait are visible from every stretch of the coast. The wrecks resting on the seabed offer adventure not only for technical divers, but also for recreational ones. Most of them lie at depths within the reach of an OWD certification, with a few exceptions, of course. There are some for those craving adrenaline and a true challenge. I will definitely be back here. That’s certain!

I want to thank

All of you who supported me and kept your fingers crossed from the very beginning. You commented on my posts, believed in me, and gave me the strength to push forward. This victory is dedicated to you. You gave me faith in myself and in my abilities. Thanks to you, I never gave up – I was motivated not to let you down and fought until the very end.

Huge thanks to Santi and Seacraft for equipping me with diving gear.

Thanks to Alex Dawson for recognizing my potential and nominating me for the competition.

And to the organizers of Gallipoli Wreck Fest for the invitation and the fantastic experience.

The less-known Canary Island

When I tell people I’ve been to El Hierro, I usually have to follow it up with an explanation of where that actually is. No surprise there – ONE OF THE SMALLEST OF THE CANARY ISLANDS, TUCKED AWAY IN THE FAR SOUTHWESTERN CORNER OF THE ARCHIPELAGO, EL HIERRO ISN’T EXACTLY A GO-TO DESTINATION FOR MAINSTREAM HOLIDAYMAKERS.

Ilike to say that El Hierro is a place for connoisseurs – quiet, a little provincial, remote, and completely different from the bustling vibes of Tenerife or Gran Canaria. You can drive around the island in two hours, and the population is just over 10,000. Locals from Tenerife often say that El Hierro still has the feel of the Canaries before mass tourism arrived.

Diving in Mar de Las Calmas

The entire island is designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and its southern coastline includes the Mar de Las Calmas Marine Reserve, which is currently on track – under a Spanish government recommendation – to become the country’s first national marine park.

This is what draws divers to El Hierro. Mar de Las Calmas offers more than a dozen stunning dive sites spread along the

southern coast. When conditions are good, additional dive sites along the eastern shore become accessible as well.

However, strong winds are common on El Hierro, and the Atlantic can get rough. This makes the eastern coastline frequently inaccessible, while the southern side remains sheltered yearround, offering excellent diving conditions. All dives are done from boats, and the furthest sites are no more than 15 minutes from the harbor.

The island’s most famous dive site is El Bajon – an underwater mountain with twin peaks located at depths of 6 and 9 meters. On one side, vertical walls drop to about 35 meters, ending in a sandy seabed; on the other, the wall plunges down into a dramatic 100-meter drop-off. El Bajon is known for its strong currents, and diving here is not always possible due to the conditions.

You can dive El Hierro year-round. Water temperatures range from 16–18°C in the coldest months (January–April) to around 22°C from August through November.

The marine reserve has strict rules – only one boat per dive site is allowed at a time. So, no crowds. If someone else wants to dive the same site as you, they simply have to wait. First come, first served.

Thanks to the protected status of the reserve, marine life here is exceptionally rich. Frequent sightings include rays, moray eels, amberjacks, tuna, trevallies, groupers, lobsters, shrimp, and crabs.

But El Hierro’s exposure to the open Atlantic also means the potential for more thrilling encounters. On my last visit in May, I spotted a seahorse and a hammerhead shark. Just days earlier, another dive group saw a mola mola (!), and humpback whales

Photo Tagoro Dive

were observed passing along the western shore. Manta rays are also regular visitors around the island.

La Restinga

For most divers, the base of operations on El Hierro is the tiny coastal town of La Restinga. It's the kind of place where people in wetsuits wander the streets between dives, and you can stop at one of a few small bars for a coffee and a sandwich. The staff are used to soggy visitors and will gladly take your order at the door – just to keep seawater from dripping all over the floor. In the evening, everyone seems to end up in one of the town’s excellent restaurants serving local fish and fresh seafood.

If you’re diving on El Hierro, it’s strongly recommended to stay in La Restinga. While distances on the island are short and other towns can be quite picturesque, many of them sit at significantly higher altitudes. The neighboring village of El Pinar, for example, is located at 900 meters above sea level, and the only road connecting La Restinga with the rest of the island climbs to over 1,000 meters. That elevation gain makes leaving La Restinga after a dive problematic from a decompression safety standpoint.

There are a dozen or so dive centers in town. My top recommendation is Tagoro Dive, a friendly operation run by a close-knit group of friends. The atmosphere at Tagoro made every visit a pleasure. I appreciated the relaxed pace, the good humor, the coffee breaks between dives – but also the professionalism and the team’s deep knowledge of the island and its dive sites.

What to do beyond diving?

So, what else is there to do on El Hierro besides diving? Renting a car is a must. Even if you spend most of your time in La Restinga and feel like you don’t need one, you’ll miss out on the rest of the island without it. Besides, the trip from the airport or ferry terminal to La Restinga is around 40 km, and requires three different buses!

El Hierro doesn’t have many beaches, but it makes up for that with an abundance of trekking trails. You can hike to the

highest peak, Malpaso (1,501 m), for a breathtaking view of the ocean and neighboring islands like La Palma, La Gomera, and Tenerife. On the uninhabited western side of the island, you’ll find classic volcanic landscapes dotted with twisted juniper trees shaped by the wind, or you can visit the site where the prime meridian once passed through El Hierro. The island’s interior is lush and green, with ancient pine forests and, at higher elevations, laurel forests (laurisilva) that feel almost like a jungle.

If you’re feeling more relaxed than adventurous, you can simply hop in the car and circle the island, stopping at numerous panoramic viewpoints. Be sure to check out the El Golfo basin from above, or the dramatic cliffs on the southwest coast. And finally, no trip to El Hierro would be complete without sampling the local cheeses and wine – some of the best the Canary Islands have to offer.

How to get to El Hierro?

The easiest way to reach El Hierro is by flying with the regional airline Binter Canarias from Tenerife or Gran Canaria. If you’re flying from Tenerife, keep in mind that flights to El Hierro depart from Tenerife North Airport (TFN), not the international Tenerife South (TFS).

A great alternative is the ferry from Los Cristianos, located on the southern coast of Tenerife. The ride takes about 2 hours, is comfortable, and has an added advantage: On your last day, you can still dive. Since you’re not flying, you’re not restricted by the no-fly window after diving – which you would be if you had a morning flight to Tenerife or Gran Canaria.

When my plane landed on El Hierro in early May, I thought a week on such a small island would be just right. By the time I boarded the ferry back to Tenerife a week later, I already knew this wouldn’t be my last time on El Hierro. I’ll definitely be back – because within a five-hour flight from Poland, and outside of the often-crowded Egypt, I honestly don’t think there’s another place that offers such great diving and such a pleasant vibe on land.

Huge thanks to Antonio, Marisa, and the entire team at Tagoro Dive for the excellent dives, amazing atmosphere, and for providing the underwater photos used in this article.

SS THISTLEGORM

Text SYLWIA KOSMALSKA-JURIEWICZ

Photos ADRIAN JURIEWICZ

This lesson goes far deeper than an academic talk. The storyteller is the Red Sea, and its textbooks aren’t faded library tomes but algae – and coral-covered artifacts that have rested on the seabed since 1941.

Wrecks have fascinated divers for years – they are a kind of time capsule that sparks the imagination, stirs curiosity, and intrigues the soul. Every wreck, even the smallest, tells its own unique story – often one that no one has told yet. And the longer a wreck lies on the seabed, the more secrets it seems to hold.

Among them lies the SS Thistlegorm, often considered one of the most beautiful wrecks in the world. It was discovered by the legendary explorer Jacques Cousteau in March 1955, though it wasn’t until the 1990s that the wreck was opened to recreational divers.

We descend slowly along the shot line tied to the wreck. The visibility isn’t the brilliant blue we usually expect in the Red Sea –instead, a milky green hue clouds the water and limits our view. We’d been expecting strong tidal currents, which are common at this site, but today the sea is remarkably calm. We’re diving in a small, intimate group.

„A ship is safe in harbor, but that’s not what ships are built for.”

Paulo Coelho

We’re in a history lecture, but we’re not sitting in a lecture hall. Instead, we’re suspended mid-water, inside a World War II wreck. Our lecturer isn’t a history professor in a wool blazer, but Gamal – a dive guide with years of experience who has been showing the SS THISTLEGORM to divers from around the world for decades.

SS Thistlegorm emerges from the shadows as we reach ten meters. She’s a British armed merchant freighter that sank on October 6, 1941, near the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt. The cause of the sinking was an airstrike from two German bombers that had randomly chosen the ship as their target. The Thistlegorm was carrying a large stockpile of ammunition intended for British forces, which exploded after the bombs hit, destroying the ship. In addition to ammunition, the cargo included motorcycles, armored vehicles, trucks, aircraft parts, and even locomotives – which were blasted off the deck by the explosion and now lie scattered near the wreck. The wreck rests at a depth of 32 meters, and it’s not for everyone. The minimum certification required is AOWD, and divers must be comfortable with dark, confined spaces.

At sixteen meters, we reach the steel structure of the ship. Due to limited visibility, we can only make out part of its 126-meter silhouette. SS Thistlegorm is covered in green algae and coral reef. The closer we get, the more dark, monumental, and captivating it appears. The ammunition explosion caused tremendous damage – cargo elements still lie scattered around, as if time had stood still here. We drift along the hull

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for a moment; on the deck rests a motionless crocodilefish, as if standing guard over the ship’s history. We pause briefly to take a few photos of the wreck from the outside and lock its image into memory.

We enter the dark second cargo hold, gently pushing forward with our fins. We switch on our torches, and after a moment, we’re greeted by the sight of Norton 16H motorcycles with single-cylinder engines, manufactured between 1911 and 1954. These bikes had a flawless reputation for reliability, which is why the British Army used them during World War II. Some of the motorcycles are perfectly aligned, as if someone had just parked them. Others lie scattered in disarray, wrapped in green algae. We continue slowly, taking our time to admire the well-preserved vintage vehicles, among them the Ford WOT2 and Bedford OY, known for their rugged construction. These large military trucks are closely guarded by a school of red fish, which never stray from these extraordinary war artifacts.

The Red Sea has embraced the wreck, and marine life has made itself at home inside it. It’s a beautiful example of how, in nature, nothing is ever truly lost – only transformed. The water inside the wreck is crystal clear, making all the objects we encounter highly visible. We drift from one compartment to another – it feels like traveling through time. Some passages are narrow and very dark, while others are wide and open to the

sea. We float in the water column, wrapped in silence, as the wreck seems to whisper its tragic story.

On the lower level of the hold, we see more motorcycles, aircraft parts, and large spare tires. Cargo hold number one contains power generators, ammunition, rifles, and Matchless G3L motorcycles – all remarkably well preserved. During the dive, we also visit the bridge and other cargo spaces – each time discovering something new. Diving around the wreck is also fascinating, but it's only possible when there is no tidal current in the area. It’s highly recommended to do multiple dives on SS Thistlegorm, including a night dive, which is a truly mystical experience.

After an hour underwater, we reach the ascent line and slowly begin to ascend. The shallower we go, the more the silhouette of the wreck fades – until it finally disappears behind the greenish, milky curtain of the Red Sea, leaving us with a deep longing to return here as soon as possible.

When we do what we love in life, we wake up happy every single day.

SPERM WHALES The Secrets of the

Text and photos BARBARA GLENC

IT ALL STARTED WITH A SINGLE CLICK.

Three days before the flight. No plan, no calculation. Click – and the tickets to Mauritius landed in my inbox. I had a gut feeling that something extraordinary was waiting for me in the depths of the Indian Ocean. I packed my diving gear, photography equipment, and a head full of dreams. I went.

From the very first breath after stepping off the plane, I knew I had entered a different world. The scent of vanilla, the humid breeze, and greenery so lush it felt unreal. Mauritius is a land of contrasts – small, yet brimming with richness. Green mountains, volcanic peaks, sugarcane plantations, and postcard-perfect beaches.

This island is also about its people – descendants of Africans, Indians, Europeans, and Chinese. Everyone smiles. Everyone is willing to help. Here, people speak Creole, English, French – but most often, simply: warmly.

An expedition to meet the giants

Dawn hadn't fully broken when we set out. The ocean was smooth as glass. Silence, a gentle swell, and a sense of tension in the air. We listened. We scanned the horizon. And then – suddenly – from the deep, they appeared. Sperm whales. An entire family. Long silhouettes gliding lazily near the surface. Mothers with their young. And moments later – a second group. Larger. Vibrant. Present. Time stood still.

We slipped into the water almost soundlessly. And then –silence. Only the vast blue around us. The sperm whales swam beside us with majestic calm, as if they knew we hadn’t come to disturb, but to admire.

I don’t know when time passed. Minutes disappeared –maybe even hours. We were part of another world. The sperm whales hovered in the water column as if they were dreaming. The young played around their mothers, turning, swimming closer, checking us out.

In their sounds – the clicks that reverberated through the whole body – they reminded me of the clatter of storks, only underwater. And they were everywhere. I didn’t feel like a tourist,

nor like a photographer – but like a participant in something greater. A ritual. A meeting you never forget.

Who are these giants?

Sperm whales are true legends of the ocean. Males can reach up to 20 meters in length and weigh over 50 tons. Their foreheads are filled with spermaceti –a substance that helps them with echolocation and buoyancy control. They are capable of diving to depths beyond 3,000 meters and staying there for up to an hour, hunting in complete darkness.

Their prey is mainly squid – including those legendary, giant ones. But they also hunt octopuses and deep-sea fish.

The little ones? They are born after a 14–16-month pregnancy, measur ing about 4 meters and weighing over a ton. They are fed milk containing up to 50% fat – a true energy bomb. They drink liters of it and grow like crazy.

Sperm whales live in tight-knit groups – they are social animals that cooper ate, care for their young, and pass knowledge down from generation to gener ation. You can feel that bond underwater.

Diving with sperm whales stays with you. It’s not just an adventure – it’s a lesson in humility. A meeting with beings that are bigger, older, and wiser. And me? I came back with memory cards full of photos, but something more remained in my heart. A sense of peace. And the certainty that not every journey needs to be planned. Sometimes all it takes is one click. And the courage to go.

MAŁY STAW

the Water Pearl of the Karkonosze

Mały Staw (The Small Pond) can be found in the central part of the Giant Mountains, between Równia pod Śnieżką (the Śnieżka Plateau) and the peak of Smogornia. The pond owes its origin to the powerful glaciers that once roamed the Giant Mountains, brutally shaping their landscape (at least, that’s how respected geologists describe it).

Our lake, Mały Staw, is nestled in an impressive glacial cirque, at the bottom of which slopes over 200 meters high descend directly into the surface of the water. On its shore, at an altitude of 1,195 meters above sea level, stands one of the most atmospheric and famous mountain hostels –Samotnia.

Photos from the lake cleanup archive of JAROSŁAWA SOŁODUCHA

Photos of Mały Staw GRAŻYNA SOŁODUCHA

Text JAROSŁAW SOŁODUCHA

To put an end to all rumors and doubts, we can safely say that the water in the pond is not meltwater from glaciers, as that has long since been replaced. Especially since the pond is flowthrough, meaning it has a stream that carries away excess water. The Łomnica stream runs through it, and in the past it caused many problems for the inhabitants of Karpacz. On one side, it collects water from a steep valley, then rushes

headlong toward the town. This was especially dangerous after heavy rains. It must also be said that Łomnica literally devastated the area several times. For this reason, an anti-debris dam (Wild waterfall) and the Łomnica Dam (which can be seen on the way to Karpatka) were built in Karpacz.

Mały Staw has a rather small surface area, steep banks, and an oval shape, but it is not particularly deep. On aver-

age, the depth is 3.45 meters, and at its deepest point measuring instruments show 7.3 meters. It is the second largest lake in the Giant Mountains. The shoreline measures 756 meters, and its area covers 2.9 hectares. For much of the year, Mały Staw is covered by ice, and in summer the water temperature reaches a maximum of 14°C. However, swimming is prohibited here. This natural beauty remains under the watchful care of the Giant Mountains National Park, which ensures its protection.

For several decades, there has been very heavy tourist traffic here, which unfortunately has also meant an incredible amount of litter left in the mountains. Environmental awareness today is much greater than it was in the 1990s, so one can only imagine what things were like around Mały Staw – and on its bottom. In agreement with the Giant Mountains National Park (which gave permission), I organized a cleanup of Mały Staw. Diving is normally prohibited here, but for this ecological initiative, the park authorities made an exception.

The event took place in September 1995, and I invited fellow divers from Toruń to join. We gathered a group of 13 people who were willing to take part in the project. The work was planned for two days. On the first day, nine divers participated in cleaning the bottom. The

weather was not particularly favorable, as it had rained during the night. Streams of water flowed into Mały Staw, making the water very murky and reducing visibility to just one meter. Despite these poor conditions, we took up the challenge! Around 10:30 a.m. the first dive began. Nine people went underwater, while four others provided logistical support, collecting the things that were brought up.

The quantity and variety of garbage shocked us. Five huge plastic bags were filled after just one dive! Cans, glass bottles and jars, piles of broken glass, ski poles (!!), various metal objects, pieces of mountain equipment – all of this we pulled from the bottom of Mały Staw. Because of the poor visibility, we made only that one dive on the first day. The rest of the day we spent exploring the region, including a climb to the summit of Śnieżka (1,602 m a.s.l.).

The second day brought better weather above the surface, but underwater the visibility hardly improved. We managed to pull out two more bags of waste, making a total of seven. Mały Staw became more environmentally friendly, which gave all of us – those taking part in the action – great satisfaction. We were proud to have done something good for such a beautiful environment as the Giant Mountains.

As Neil Armstrong said, for us it was a small step – using our diving skills, which at the time were still quite niche – but also a big step for humanity. Since actions like this one, awareness among divers and environmentalists has grown, and today we have a dozen or so lake-cleaning initiatives each year.

May it continue!

Diving on the Masurian Highway

Lake TAŁTY

Lake Tałty is, in many ways, the most demanding lake for diving in Masuria. First of all, it’s the deepest lake on the Masurian Lake District route – over 50 meters. Secondly, it’s also the most capricious lake in Masuria when it comes to visibility. Thirdly, it’s a transit lake connecting the routes from Ryn to Mikołajki and from Giżycko to Mikołajki.

In the summer season, the boat traffic on the water resembles the S7 highway between Warsaw and Gdańsk. And finally, the number of piers, docks, and buoys is so large that diving underwater feels like walking through a forest of steel chains and ropes. When diving in this lake, we have to be extremely cautious about our safety. A good example was the situation of a very experienced friend of mine who, in severely limited visibility, swam with his twin set under a small wooden pier and got stuck. Fortunately, he didn’t panic – he slowly dug a hole in the silt with his fins and backed out into deeper water.

Someone might ask, so why even bother diving there? Well, because it’s home to the largest shipwreck in Masuria – it’s

33 meters long and known as “Barka” [the Barge]. Its origin remains a mystery to this day. And also because in this “water highway madness,” it’s easy to lose something. If anything ends up overboard, it usually won’t be recovered unless by a diver. But that’s just the introduction – let’s start from the beginning. The name of the lake comes from the Old Prussian word tauta, meaning “high bank.” Historically, the lake was associated with the Teutonic Order, as fishing rights on Lake Tałty were granted by the Komtur (commander) of Ryn. Poland’s connection with the lake begins at the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries, when Polish fishermen began settling along its shores. Fishing settlements gradually emerged, and over time, they evolved into villages. Four of them, which still exist

Text and photos JACEK KUBIAK

today, stood out in this process: Skorupki, Tałty, Stare Sady, and Jora Wielka.

Lake Tałty is a vast glacial trough that stretches for 35 km between Ryn and Ruciane-Nida. Together with Lake Ryńskie, it forms a single body of water that is 20 km long and covers an area of 18.3 km². The southern end of the lake reaches just outside Mikołajki. The average depth of Lake Tałty is 14 meters, with a recorded maximum depth of 50.8 meters. You can reach Lake Tałty from the direction of Giżycko by passing through four consecutive canals: Szymoński, Mioduński, Grunwaldzki, and Tałcki.

Diving in Lake Tałty

Due to the lake's shape – a long, straight glacial trough – there are very few quiet, charming coves where you can freely take a dive during the summer season. On top of that, there's heavy boat traffic. The best time to dive here is outside the tourist season, from October to April. September still sees students crowding the Masurian routes on sailing trips, and the sailing season officially kicks off with the May long weekend. As for visibility – the colder the water, the clearer it gets.

In my diving career spanning over a dozen years, I’ve had the opportunity to dive in Lake Tałty about 30 times. Accessibility is not an issue, as the port infrastructure has been at a very high level for years. The number of restaurants, marinas, and piers continues to grow. Despite exploring many different dive sites, two spots stand out as the most popular: the outlet of the Tałcki Canal into Lake Tałty and the wreck of the "Barge" in the village of the same name, Tałty.

The canal outlet is like off-season shopping. After an hourlong dive, you can emerge looking like a Christmas tree. That’s how it goes in places where sailors raise or lower their masts. In the chaos of battling natural obstacles – wind, waves, currents – anything not secured ends up in the water. Sometimes there's no need to swim too far, because just six minutes into the dive you’ve already picked up an anchor, a fishing rod, and a bottle of firewater. Then it’s back to shore to drop it off… and back into the water. Honestly, it’s great fun.

The “Barge” Wreck

The largest shipwreck in Masuria was discovered relatively recently. The biggest surprise, however, was the fact that this

wreck – despite its impressive size – lies very close to the shore. It was best described by the person who, as one of the first divers after its discovery, had the chance to explore it underwater: my good friend, Sebastian Łepkowski, a diving instructor at the “Płetwal” Diving Club in Giżycko. Quote: “The wreck is of a wooden, flat-bottomed vessel built on a frame of steel ribs made from channel sections. The length of the vessel – by Masurian standards – is impressive: around 33 meters. The width is 5.2 meters. The bow section is damaged; the ribs have been bent or cut off. From midship to the stern, the wreck is in very good condition. Each side features two impressive mooring bollards. The largest one is mounted on the stern, just behind the remnants of the anchor winch. On the port side of the superstructure, two portholes are still in place – on the starboard side, only one remains... You can enter the interior through the stern hatch and exit via the cargo hold, which is relatively safe. The rudder yoke meets the lakebed at a depth of about 12 meters. The rudder blade itself is completely embedded in the bottom.”

According to stories from local residents, in the 1960s, an attempt was made to haul the vessel onto the shore using tractors. However, due to the strain, the hull broke in half and the stern section slid back into the water. There are many theories about this wreck – especially whether it was actually a barge. One theory claims that an engine still remains in the stern section, which would not align with it being a true barge, as barges generally didn’t have their own propulsion systems and were towed by tugboats.

Either way, it’s a real treat for divers to explore. The waters of Lake Tałty, thanks to their depth and limited visibility, likely hide many more such gems. It’s also worth mentioning that before WWII, the lake’s flagship vessel was the OSTMARK–a passenger ship that entered service with the white fleet in 1931. It could carry up to 214 passengers. After the war, it was renamed to the more politically correct “Małgorzata Fornalska.” Her fate came to an end right here, on Lake Tałty, where she lay partially sunken along the shore for several years before being scrapped in 1999.

All species of fish typical of the Masurian trail can be found in this lake, but I always fondly remember the large zanders and the huge eels lounging around 20 meters deep near the village of Tałty.

There is no dive base or diving center on or near the lake, so it's best to arrive with your own equipment.

If anyone needs support or a guide for exploring the barge or diving in Lake Tałty, feel free to get in touch – diving instructor Jacek Kubiak, MAZURSHARKS Kętrzyn. (More in the "Our Contributors" section).

FRESH WATER THROUGH THE EYES OF ANNA PASZTA

Fairy-Tale Saxony and Its

GRANITE TRAIL

THE CROWN OF SAXONY’S QUARRIES is a true paradise for diving fanatics who love mysterious, cold, shadowy depths.

At least once a year, we dedicate a few days to joyful splashing around in the water-filled basins of former mines, where the extraction and processing of plutonic rock has a history stretching back more than a century. In the 19th century, granite played a crucial role in construction, road surfacing, bridge building, and as crushed stone for railway tracks.

Across Lusatia, numerous quarries were established, and mining and stonemasonry became significant industries in the region. Today, many of these quarries are no longer active, and the excavation pits created during mining have been filled with water. And this is where their newest story begins...

SPARMANN

After the bright and sunny Horka, the Sparmann quarry makes a striking impression with its dark and brooding atmosphere. Unusually, it is located right in the middle of a town, not far from

the centre. The route takes you through residential buildings and garden plots, ending at a gate behind which, next to a gravel-covered parking area, rise the buildings of the Tauchbasis Sparmann dive centre.

The quarry’s edges are surrounded by trees, bushes, and an abundance of flowering herbs, eagerly visited by bees, butterflies, squirrels, and birds. The centre is owned by the well-known and much-liked Jost Krauze, always smiling, helpful, and kind to visiting divers.

On the fenced and well-maintained grounds are several heated wooden cabins for guests planning a longer stay. In the morning, you can order breakfast served by Jost – soft-boiled eggs and freshly baked hot rolls – and in the evening, enjoy a bonfire or grill in a large, comfortable shelter on the lakefront.

From this shelter, you can admire the quarry’s steep walls and the deep, dark green waters below. The basin reaches 63 m in depth, making it a popular site for instructors conducting technical diver training. The water entry point is located right next to the cabins. Cobblestone steps lead down to a wide ledge, from which a metal ladder takes you to a small, grated platform –perfect for donning fins and taking a single step into the water.

The dark, mysterious depths of the Sparmann quarry beckon divers downward. This is an old reservoir, and although the

Text and photos ANNA PASZTA

base owner takes great care to oxygenate and clean it, excellent visibility is a rarity. Additionally, the high rock walls cast deep shadows over the water, making dive lights necessary already around the 10-metre mark.

The quarry is equipped with guide ropes and is excellently prepared for divers of all experience levels, but it’s important to note that all dives here take place either mid-water or along vertical walls – so good buoyancy control is essential.

Just a few fin kicks away from the entry platform, at a depth of 5 meters, there’s a large floating platform. It’s perfect for training or taking a comfortable safety stop.

While spending time near the platform, divers are often joined by tame and extremely curious sturgeons. The largest

of them reach up to 170 cm in length – a true beast of a fish! They swim up very close, happily posing for photos, peering into your eyes, and practically demanding to be petted. And yes – we all know we shouldn’t touch underwater wildlife. But we know what we know, and the sturgeons know what they want. Try not petting one of these gentlemen, and you’ll find it rubbing right between your mask and the camera in your hands  These encounters stay with you for a long time.

If you choose the guideline running along the black vertical wall to the right of the entry point, make sure that everyone in your group is at least AOWD-certified and mentally prepared. The rope leads you into an ominous, icy-black void. On your right: a smooth, dark rock face. On your left: nothing. The only thing breaking the darkness is a bit of yellow rope lit up by your torch. Spooky, isn’t it?

After about 10 minutes, you’ll reach a stone shelf at 30 meters, where the walls of a small bunker emerge from the gloom. All around: darkness, like a cloudy winter night, and then – suddenly – a tiny house clinging to the rock face. From the ledge, a piece of surreal rail track extends into the darkness.

From here, you have three route options. We can turn back, continue slowly shallowing along the wall, or follow the next guide rope disappearing into the water column.

If you continue along the wall, be aware that it shallows out very gradually, so keep an eye on your no-decompression time if you're diving recreationally. This route will lead you to a sunken airplane wreck at 22 meters, followed by a motorboat at 15 meters on the opposite side of the basin.

If you follow the rope from the bunker that heads out into the open water, you’ll come up gradually to about 15 meters, arriving at a rockfall area on the other side of the reservoir.

Among the boulders, you might spot old bicycles, a toilet, tree stumps, and plenty of fish. Using either the vegetation-covered near-shore rock walls or another guideline as your reference point, you can return to the entry platform – where you’ll be greeted once again by the smiling, whiskered faces of the sturgeons.

Just by the entry point, you can also descend straight to a depth of 22 meters, where you’ll find another guide rope. If you follow it to the left, staying close to the bottom, it will lead you to a giant

submerged tree at 26 meters, and then onward to a military Jeep parked on the lakebed. From here, it's worth heading toward the eastern wall of the quarry. The slope here is gentler and covered in a flooded forest. If you're lucky with visibility, this part of the site is perfect for photography.

During your dive, aside from the sturgeons that are the quarry’s biggest stars, you may also encounter massive pike, as well as large schools of perch and roach.

I’m very fond of this place, even though there have been moments – drifting through that cold, black abyss – when the thought flashed through my mind: “Woman, are you completely out of your mind?!” Well, such is the strange and mysterious pull of Sparmann’s dark magic.

It’s also worth saying a few words about the town surrounding the quarry. Kamenz – as it's now known – has roots going all the way back to the early Middle Ages. Around 1190, there was a Slavic village here. Nearby, on the White Elster River and right along the Via Regia trade route, a fortified settlement grew, which received city rights before 1225. The town's name comes from the Lusatian word “kamjenc,” meaning “stone.” Over the years, it evolved through forms like Kamjen, Kamienz, Kamieniec, and finally became the German Kamenz. If you have a bit of extra time, it’s well worth taking a stroll through its old, cobbled streets, all the way to the market square lined with charming townhouses. You can also visit the Lessing Museum – dedicated to the Enlightenment-era poet –stop by the town hall, or the museum of sacred art, and wrap up your visit with a delicious dinner at one of the nearby restaurants.

ORP Bryza

As the old Polish saying goes, “Foreign things you praise, your own you do not know,” so today we’re turning our attention to the Baltic Sea — our very own backyard. More specifically, we’ll focus on the wreck of the ORP Bryza.

IT’S NO COINCIDENCE THAT I CHOSE THIS WRECK TO KICK OFF A NEW SERIES HIGHLIGHTING THE MOST FASCINATING DIVE SITES IN THE BALTIC.

As always in my writing, you’ll find a mix of technical knowledge, practical insights, personal experiences, and unique on-site tips. Ready to dive into the Baltic together and explore the Bryza wreck? Let’s get started. We begin our Baltic wreck diving journey with probably the most talked-about wreck in Poland – the ORP Bryza (K18). Before we dive in, let’s quickly review the vessel’s history. This ship is so well-known that entire books have been written about her, including stories from those who served aboard. I would divide Bryza’s life into three main chapters:

● She was built at the Gdańsk River Shipyard (Stogi) as part of Project 722. On January 10, 1965, the naval ensign was raised over a vessel marked K-18, initially used as a passenger and transport ship under the name Bryza. After 1978, she was reassigned as a liaison cutter in the 43rd Squadron of Auxiliary Naval Vessels of the 9th Coastal Defense Flotilla, based in Hel. The hull was steel and fully welded, about 28 meters long and 6.2 meters wide, powered by two WOLA diesel engines, each generating approximately 300 HP, driving two shafts with

Text TOMEK KULCZYŃSKI Photos DIVE LAND

three-blade propellers. Her top speed was around 11 knots, with an operational range of about 1,100 nautical miles. The standard crew consisted of 12 personnel, with room for up to 36 passengers. The engine room was located midship, below the main deck. In this role, Bryza carried both personnel and cargo, serving as a link between piers and ships – until she was eventually decommissioned from the Polish Navy.

● After decommissioning, she followed the typical path of small auxiliary vessels – straight to a scrapyard. In May 2008, the city of Hel purchased the hull with the intention of turning it into a controlled, safe wreck for divers. According to local sources, around 85,000 PLN was paid for the vessel, with an additional ~50,000 PLN spent on cleaning and preparation, plus the cost of the scuttling operation. Before being sunk, all equipment, doors, and portholes were removed, and additional openings were cut to improve accessibility and safety inside.

● “Bryza” now rests on a slope near the beach in Hel, bow facing inland. She sits upright on her keel with a slight tilt to starboard; the shallowest parts of the wreck are around 11–12 meters, and the stern drops down to approximately 21–22 meters. The location is marked with a buoy; access is possible both from shore and by boat. Thanks to the careful preparation (no nets, multiple cut-out “windows” in the hull), this is a popular training site – but it’s also complex enough inside to be interesting for more experienced divers.

It’s one of the few vessels in Poland intentionally scuttled as a dive attraction and training platform, and the operation was conducted openly – “in full view” of tourists. That’s why Bryza isn’t some random relic of disaster, but a deliberately created, safe underwater exhibit. And for this reason, it’s the first wreck I’ve chosen to feature in what will be a rather long list…

In our discussion of wreck diving, we absolutely have to talk about our beloved Baltic Sea. According to vacationers, anyone who dares to swim in it – regardless of the season – is truly brave  And when the weather finally does warm up a bit, the issue of cyanobacteria blooms immediately follows. In the case of Hel, there’s also the summer tourist season to deal with… During the holidays, taking 8 hours to get to Hel from the Tri-City area is nothing unusual. Trying to beat the traffic by leaving early in the morning or late at night doesn’t help much either… Locals from Hel apparently use the train when they need to leave during the summer. And on top of the travel time, there are the high accommodation prices in season. Long story short – there’s really no point going to Hel for just two days of diving during peak holiday season – unless you’re already there on vacation, which is a different story.

Staying on the topic of the Baltic – it’s wildly unpredictable… A weekend dive trip might look like this: you book your dive for Saturday, and only by Wednesday will you find out whether

the weather will allow the boat to go out at all! And even then, conditions can change again, and by Friday you may get word that the trip is off – despite initial confirmation. That’s why it can be frustrating – nothing is certain, and booking accommodation even just a few days in advance can end up being costly (though not always).

The Bryza wreck is accessible both by boat and from shore. Shore diving is doable, but only really makes sense with a scooter… Finning there on a single tank setup becomes a bit of a chore… The wreck is so close that you board the boat already fully geared up, because the ride lasts just 3 minutes… Just remember: when there’s a heavy swell, boarding the boat is not an easy task.

In summer, diving the Bryza in a wetsuit is perfectly doable. True, below 15 meters you may hit a thermocline, but since 80% of the wreck lies shallower than that, it’s no big deal if you simply skip the deeper part. The wreck is very well prepared for divers. There’s a descent line that takes you directly to the shallowest part of the wreck – the bow. From there, you can swim along either the port or starboard side toward the stern, effectively circling the wreck. Then, you repeat the loop around the wheelhouse. Entering the wreck is possible –provided you have the appropriate training. The spaces inside are quite large; it’s a simple wreck to penetrate and navigate – which makes sense, since it was sunk specifically for divers. But don’t let that fool you either. Conditions on the wreck can include strong currents. Visibility can be very poor – or drop from moderate to bad in the blink of an eye… When penetrating the wreck, visibility can drop to zero almost immediately from your own exhaled bubbles… If you’re diving in a team of three, one behind the other, the third diver will barely see anything 

To sum up, I believe the Bryza wreck is an ideal starting point for anyone looking to begin their wreck diving journey. Just remember, on most trips you’re not going to get perfectly calm, sunny weather – you’ll be diving in tougher conditions. That’s part of the Baltic’s charm. And even though the wreck has been adapted for divers, you still need to be extremely cautious – this is a real sea dive, on a real wreck. Despite the great effort put into making it safe, there are still many hazards to watch out for. In my opinion, anyone planning to dive in the Baltic should start with this wreck – and don’t kid yourself – on most trips, you’ll end up diving it anyway. Not only is it the most accessible wreck, but it’s also so close to shore that it’s often the only one available when the weather limits your options…

UCZYMY, WSPIERAMY, INSPIRUJEMY.

KURSY

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ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE Goes Underwater

Text MAGDALENA SOKOŁOWSKA

Artificial Intelligence is not the future – it is the present. AI has already become part of our lives. We know it from social media, various apps, and above all from ChatGPT, which can find information, solve complex mathematical problems, analyse large datasets, and generate text on almost any topic.

AIis also being used beneath the water’s surface – supporting scientists in studying the oceans, helping with ecology, processing underwater images, and even offering divers greater safety during dives.

The simplest way divers can use AI is by asking ChatGPT to plan a dive trip. We can type an example command (prompt):

"I am an AOWD PADI diver. I have done over 150 dives. I love diving with sharks. What are the diving opportunities in Japan? Provide dive sites and descriptions. What is the best time to fly there? Then search for flights from Poland to Japan for that time and enter the approximate price in PLN with checked baggage. In the next step, describe how to get from the airport to these dive sites. What are the accommodation options there, what prices? What are the diving centres in a given place and what are the prices of dives in PLN?"

Example ChatGPT reply:

Ito / Chiba Peninsula (Honshu, near Tokyo)

• Diving at the famous “Shark Scramble” site, with hundreds of banded hound sharks circling – available most of the year.

Flights from Warsaw (WAW) to Tokyo (NRT/HND)

Approximate prices (Economy, with checked baggage):

• Connecting flights: approx. 3700–3900 PLN

• Direct flights with LOT: approx. 4400–4500 PLN

From Tokyo to Chiba/Ito by express train (Odoriko)

• Travel time: approx. 2h 30min – 2h 49min, depending on station and connection

• One-way ticket: approx. 120 PLN

Local dive centres in Ito take divers by boat to Shark Scramble

– just minutes from the harbour.

Hotels in Ito or Chiba range from about 270 PLN for a simple double room to 540–670 PLN for higher-standard options. Dive centres often partner with guesthouses or offer packages with accommodation.

Ito Diving Service Bommie

• 2 boat dives: 780 PLN

• 3 dives: 1000 PLN

• Price includes transfer from Tokyo, paperwork, guide, ballast. Full gear rental: 300 PLN

With this information, you can visit the dive centre’s website, choose a flight, and book accommodation. You might also be tempted to ask ChatGPT to plan a specific dive – but I advise against it (especially for technical divers).

AI makes mistakes, often called “hallucinations.” It can invent information, merge unrelated details, and even provide links that lead nowhere. That’s why you should never trust AI answers 100%. Always verify them yourself. AI should serve only as a starting point, not the ultimate source of knowledge.

Another useful application of AI for divers is editing underwater photos – and here the possibilities are vast. For example, using Canva AI I extended a photo’s background and added elements such as a shark and coral reef. Results vary depending on the tool used: Midjourney, Leonardo, and DALL•E 3 often perform better than Canva.

Description: Shark and reef elements added with Canva AI

• The AI built into Adobe Lightroom Classic and Photoshop can also help by:

• Correcting colours and white balance automatically

• Enhancing photo quality by reducing noise and sharpening details

• Resizing and changing resolution without loss of quality

• Removing “backscatter” (white dots caused by particles in water)

• Improving contrast and dynamics

• Removing unwanted objects

• Creating special effects such as realistic light rays

If you take “split shots” (half above, half below the surface), you often end up with an image that is too dark underwater and too bright above. In this case, tools like “Sky Replacement” can be useful.

AI can also generate underwater photos from text descriptions, which makes it easier to plan compositions, lighting, and conditions before even entering the water. To achieve realistic results, prompts must be detailed and specific, including:

• Subject of the photo (who or what)

• Subject’s position in the frame

(e.g. “centre frame, portrait, eye-level shot”)

• Context or location

(e.g. “woman partially submerged in a natural lake with greenish water”)

• Light source and character

(e.g. “soft natural sunlight, rays refracting in water”)

• Aesthetic guidance

(e.g. “realistic photo style, natural colours, sharp face, blurred background”)

• Additional details, props, emotions, clothing, or effects

Example prompt in Canva AI:

• Create a realistic portrait of a young woman with long brown hair in a green blouse with frill, partially submerged in turquoise water.

• She is in the centre of the frame. Her head is at the water’s

Photo Magdalena Sokołowska, original photo

Photo Magdalena Sokołowska, original photo

Background enhanced with Canva AI

Shark and reef elements added with Canva AI

edge – lower face and body submerged, upper hair and head above. Camera at water level.

• Sunlight rays penetrate the surface, creating flickering reflections on her skin.

• Cool greens and blues dominate the background; skin tones remain naturally warm.

• She looks calmly into the lens. Central frame, slightly blurred background.

• Style: Realistic photography, high-quality underwater portrait.

• Mood: intimate.

With the right prompts, you can generate high-quality images. This is why photo competitions now include AI categories, such as the 1839 Awards. Interestingly, in 2024 the winning “AI photo” was actually real! Photographer Miles Astray submitted his shot of a headless flamingo to prove that “nature still surpasses machines in creativity and beauty” and to highlight how hard it is today to tell real from AI-generated content. In 2023, a German artist did the opposite, submitting an AI-generated photo to the Sony World Photography Awards. He won – but refused the prize, admitting it was fake and thanking the organizers for the historic moment.

When asking AI to generate an image of a diver, problems often arise. AI doesn’t fully understand how diving equipment works, so the result may resemble sci-fi gear. For instance, when I asked DALL•E to create a realistic photo of a diver in professional equipment giving the OK sign, the picture

contained many errors. This happens because AI has limited training data on divers, and even when it learns the shapes of gear, it doesn’t understand why each element is positioned or connected in a specific way.

Because image-generation tools are widely available, the Internet is increasingly flooded with fake content. A wellknown example is the viral 2023 photo of Pope Francis wearing a giant white puffer jacket with a cross – many people thought it was real.

Fake news articles with AI-generated images are easy to create (e.g. “Shark attack off the coast of Spain”), as are fake videos. With tools like HeyGen, you can clone your own likeness and appear in videos, perhaps diving with hammerhead sharks or speaking as an expert on a subject. Voice cloning, available through tools like ElevenLabs, makes such fakes even more convincing.

So, how can we recognize AI-created photos? Always check the source – or use websites like aiornot.com

You can also look closely for flaws such as:

• Incorrect number of fingers

• Blurry faces in the background

• Distortions or strange proportions

• Wrong reflections in mirrors or water

• Colours that are too harsh or contrasting

• Misspelled words

• Incorrect numbers

In the videos, you should also pay attention to whether:

• objects do not suddenly disappear and appear later

• the rules of physics are not broken

• there are no extra arms, legs

• there are no sudden accelerations, slowdowns

• there are sudden enlargements, reductions

Image from description, generated by Canva AI

AI generated diver in professional diving equipment (with errors), DALL-E

On April 1, 2024, PADI announced it was developing an AI-powered diving mask that identifies marine life in real time. Using artificial intelligence and augmented reality, the mask would display species names, fun facts, and even measure distances. A backlit screen would allow it to be used at night. Of course, it was an April Fool’s joke – but it matched exactly the kind of idea AI generated when asked to design new diving equipment. In addition, AI came up with the idea that such a mask could have a compass, could show the depth and pressure of the gas, inform about sea currents and take photos. In poor visibility, AI would track the dive partner and other group members. Personally, I would not want the information about a given species, their nutrition, habitats, and behaviours flash across my mask when diving with sharks, because I prefer to look only at a shark swimming and experience this wonderful moment – especially since sharks are predators and require our full attention. We go underwater to experience the world, not to have it obscured by information. The information displayed on the mask will not allow you to focus on the safety of the dive and will cause stress. And when it comes to pressure and depth, it's better to rely on a pressure gauge and a dive computer on your wrist. AI has also come up with the idea that in the future, AI-based dive computers could assess dive conditions in real time, and safety sensors would detect abnormalities in heart rate, oxygen levels, diver depth, and air pressure and send alerts immediately. Perhaps this would provide even more safety when diving. Dive centres can benefit from AI technology, as it will make it easier for them to run their business. By creating an AI Chat Bot or Virtual Assistant, you can improve customer service by offering automatic instant answers to frequently asked questions (e.g. about dive sites, equipment rentals, course and dive prices), round-the-clock support and assistance to divers in making reservations; in addition, the AI Chat Bot provides multilingual support, allowing dive centres to easily serve international customers. What's more, AI-integrated financial management tools help dive centres streamline accounting, invoicing, and revenue forecasting. AI also helps you create engaging social media posts that will attract potential new customers and keep the attention of existing ones.

AI can be valuable for scientific research and marine conservation. Underwater autonomous vehicles equipped with AI can identify, classify, track marine life, monitor the underwater environment, recognize and analyse underwater topography, map dive routes, wrecks, can detect potential threats – dangerous sea creatures, changes in sea currents, detect changes in water quality, identify potential sources of pollution, monitor the health of coral reefs, track the spread of invasive species and provide information on the overall health of the ecosystem.

Underwater drones are already studying the condition of coral reefs, e.g. Hydrus in Australia. Divers used to do this, but divers have limited time underwater and are not able to notice or count everything. It's also difficult for them to go back to the

exact same place and take a photo from the same angle as the day before. Hydrus can work longer, deeper, count everything faster, and present reefs more accurately and create 3D maps. It works without human involvement.

Artificial intelligence also makes it easier to recognize the same specific individuals of a given species, e.g. in shark research, each shark is given a name (e.g. Emma, known from social media, a tiger shark from Tiger Beach in the Bahamas). As each shark differs in very small details, these differences can escape a person underwater or they will not have enough time to notice them.

Technology based on artificial intelligence is increasingly used in cleaning the aquatic environment from garbage. In the future, autonomous underwater vehicles equipped with AI will clean up lakes, rivers, seas – plastic bottles, nets, cans, straws and other smaller things that they will be able to carry. This will prevent sea creatures and birds from eating this garbage (e.g. in 2018 in Indonesia, 115 plastic cups, 25 plastic bags, diving tubes and beach flip-flops were found in the stomach of a sperm whale). AI scientists in Stuttgart have already created a "Jellyfish Bot" that can bring lightweight packaging or pieces of plastic to the surface. "Jellyfish bots" can also cooperate with each other and pick up larger garbage together. There is also WasteShark (creator: Richard Hardiman), which collects garbage from the surface of the water – in a similar way to how a whale shark feeds. The device was tested in the canals of the River Thames in London.

In the Netherlands, the SeaClear system was created – a set consisting of an AI-controlled unmanned boat, a drone, two underwater robots and a waste container. Trash on the surface can be located with a drone, and deeper the boat uses an echo sounder to locate larger debris, and smaller ones are located by a robot equipped with cameras. The second robot collects the localized trash and places it in the bin. In May 2022, a prototype of this set was successfully tested in the waters of the port of Hamburg. There is another already functioning solution – The Ocean Cleanup "Interceptor" – a boat that collects garbage from the surface of rivers before it reaches the ocean, fully automated and powered by solar energy, used in Malaysia, Indonesia and Vietnam.

The development of AI has entered the world of diving and has introduced various facilitations – from planning diving trips, to editing underwater photos, generating realistic images, helping to run a dive centre, to ensuring underwater safety and protecting the environment. AI is here to stay and it's worth getting acquainted with its capabilities, if only to expand your knowledge. However, AI will not replace our diving knowledge and experience. If diving masks with augmented reality and AI are created, they will interfere with diving, and dive computers with AI can make mistakes in interpretation. However, we should not mind underwater drones that would monitor the group during the dive and in case of any danger, quickly float to the surface and make a phone call to the appropriate rescue services with coordinates.

Why couldn’t I dry my laundry in Norway?

Or: the basics of technical diving for Himalayan climbers…



What is PARTIAL PRESSURE

You hang your laundry on a line. After an hour, the clothes are either dry – or not, especially if the day is humid and muggy. Why does this happen?

THE ANSWER LIES IN A PHENOMENON THAT SOUNDS RATHER “TECHNICAL”: PARTIAL PRESSURE. And yet, it shows up not only in physics, but also in the kitchen, in the mountains, in a can of cola, and… in our underwater world.

Drying, or physics in motion

When you hang up a wet T-shirt, the water in the fabric starts to evaporate – in other words: escape. Water molecules leave the damp material, where they are highly concentrated, and move into the dry air – where there’s more room for them. That’s exactly how the difference in partial pressure works. On a humid day, the air is already "saturated" with water molecules. The pressure difference is smaller, and the laundry dries more slowly – or sometimes not at all.

Alright, but what does that have to do with diving?

If only we could weigh air…

Imagine a scale that not only weighs in kilograms but also distinguishes the components of air. For example: you place a “slice of air” on it and get the result: 79 – N₂ (nitrogen), 21 – O₂ (oxygen).

Text WOJCIECH A. FILIP

Photos TECLINE ACADEMY

But now you take that same scale down to a depth of 10 meters (so you double the ambient pressure), place the same “slice of air” on it – and what does it show?

158 – N₂, 42 – O₂.

Yes, everything has doubled – because the pressure has increased. But the percentage composition hasn't changed: we still have 79% nitrogen and 21% oxygen. That’s exactly why we talk about partial pressure – which describes how strongly a given gas actually affects our body.

Such a special “scale” doesn’t physically exist, but it exists within us – our body is extremely sensitive to how much “oxygen weight” is in the air we breathe. And it doesn’t care whether we’re on the surface or underwater.

What does this mean for a diver?

If we want the body to "feel" the same underwater as it does on the surface, we need to adjust the composition of the breathing mix so that the partial pressure of oxygen remains the same.

Example:

On the surface, oxygen makes up 21% of air.

WHAT DOES IT MEAN THAT PRESSURE IS “PARTIAL”?

Instead of saying partial pressure, you can simply say “the individual pressure of a specific gas,” because it refers to the portion of the total pressure that is exerted by that one gas. You could also call it component or fractional pressure – what matters is that you understand the concept 

When we talk about air, we usually focus on oxygen and nitrogen. So the partial pressure of nitrogen refers only to the nitrogen part, excluding oxygen. It’s this partial pressure of nitrogen that’s responsible for the intensity of nitrogen narcosis.

The abbreviation ppO₂ stands for the partial pressure of oxygen; the letters pp come from the English term partial pressure. The notation works the same for other gases – for example, ppN₂ refers to the partial pressure of nitrogen.

At 10 meters depth (where the total pressure is 2 atm), that same mix gives us a partial pressure of oxygen of: 0.21 × 2 = 0.42 atm.

So, the body is exposed to twice as much oxygen as usual.

And what if at 10 meters we breathe a mix with only 10.5% oxygen?

0.105 × 2 = 0.21 atm – which is exactly the same as at the surface.

Thanks to this, we get precisely the amount of oxygen we need – not too little, not too much.

Why is this important?

A partial pressure of oxygen that’s too high can be harmful.

At first, it accelerates oxidation – the body “wears out” faster, ages more quickly, and regenerates more slowly.

In extreme cases, it can lead to oxygen toxicity – neurological disturbances that may cause seizures, loss of consciousness, and ultimately drowning – a very undesirable way to end a dive.

That’s why nitrox or technical divers, who are trained for deeper and longer dives, learn how to calculate and properly adjust the partial pressures of gases. This is where our “secret scale” comes back into play – the one that shows how much of a giv-

en gas is affecting our body. In practice, though, it’s no secret at all – it’s just a built-in function on a dive computer or a dive planner app, usually integrated directly into your dive watch.

Our body doesn’t care about the percentage of gas in the tank – it only registers “how much of that gas it actually feels”, meaning the partial pressure of the given gas.

Not just for divers

Understanding partial pressure also helps explain... why it's so much harder for Himalayan climbers to breathe at high altitudes.

At 8,000 meters above sea level, the air pressure is so low that even though the oxygen still makes up 21% of the air, in reality, the body receives much less of it:

0.21 × 0.36 atm = 0.076 atm – which is like breathing a gas mix with only 7.6% oxygen at sea level, just a third of the normal amount.

The higher we go, the lower the total atmospheric pressure. The same principle applies as underwater – only here, instead of water, it’s the thinner layer of atmosphere above us that affects how much oxygen we inhale. The partial pressure of oxygen drops, so at 8,000 m it’s as if someone “cut off the supply” – even though the percentage of oxygen hasn’t changed.

Somewhere along the way, the not-quite-accurate theory emerged that “there’s less oxygen in the mountains” – most likely invented by someone...

who wasn’t a diver 

Partial pressure isn’t just some weird number from dive or physics textbooks – it might not be a “force” in the classical sense, but it has a very real impact on what happens around and inside us:

Æ it’s the reason why a soda hisses when opened,

Æ it determines whether a mountaineer survives a night on the summit,

Æ and how strong a diver’s nitrogen narcosis will be.

So next time your laundry won’t dry even though it “didn’t rain” –know that partial pressure was at work.

…and smile – because you’ve just understood something that keeps divers safe all around the world.

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