February 2025 • Vol. 31 • Issue 2
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Hyperpigmentation: It’s Complicated …Anne Young
yperpigmentation is a common skin condition that can affect people of all skin types, all ages, and on any part of the skin. It is a condition where certain areas of the skin become darker than the surrounding area which leads to visibly uneven skin tone. Hyperpigmentation is caused by several factors, including excess melanin production, which is often triggered by inflammation, hormone imbalance, genetics, pollution, injury, chemical/ingredient reactions, and UV light.1-3 The most common forms of hyperpigmentation include sunspots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which can occur after skin injuries such as acne scars.4,5 Hyperpigmentation is not completely preventable due to its multiple causes; it is the third most common dermatological disorder and can cause psychosocial impairment.3,6-10 Everyone is impacted by hyperpigmentation, but not equally. Individuals with darker skin types are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation. Dendy Engelman, M.D., a board-certified dermatological surgeon stated, “Brown skin is more prone to pigmentation because it tends to produce more pigment in response to injury, whether it’s sun damage or picking at a pimple.”7,9 Treatments, for hyperpigmentation include laser treatments which can be very expensive, and topical treatments, which also have their limitations. For example, for many years hydroquinone was the leading and most common ingredient used topically to reduce hyperpigmentation, but regulation changes and negative side effects have limited its use. Hydroquinone has been banned in the European Union, Australia, and Japan, and has restricted usage in Canada, U.S., and United Kingdom.6,7 Furthermore, excessive and prolonged usage of hydroquinone can lead to further skin unevenness with a “halo effect” and/or pigment rebound.5,7,8 Hydroquinone derivatives are also facing restrictions, and other chemistries are gradually being scrutinized. Consumers continue to seek topical treatments to prevent or try to reduce hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C, niacinamide, alphahydroxy acids (AHAs), and retinoids are the most common ingredients used in skin brightening topical treatments. The key targets for treating and preventing hyperpigmentation are melanosome transfer inhibitors, tyrosinase inhibitors, alpha-melanin stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) inhibitors, anti-inflammatory actives, and actives that increase cell turnover.8 Overall, there are several ingredients that take aim at each key target but no ingredient that addresses all the key targets to provide a single complete solution. Social media platforms have increasingly influenced the education, standards, and treatment of skin concerns like hyperpigmentation. Influencers on Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube have had both positive and negative impacts on the modern cosmetics market. On the positive side, they have raised awareness, helped destigmatize hyperpigmentation, offered product and ingredient recommendations, and made skincare knowledge more accessible. However, they have also contributed to the spread of (continued on Page 6) viral misinformation, often reaching a wide audience before it can be corrected by fact checkers or experts.
TECHNICAL SHOWCASE • FEBRUARY 20th ...see page 9 for more information.