Cosmetiscope February 2025 by NYSCC Webmaster

HHyperpigmentation: It’s Complicated …Anne

Young

yperpigmentation is a common skin condition that can affect people of all skin types, all ages, and on any part of the skin It is a condition where certain areas of the skin become darker than the surrounding area which leads to visibly uneven skin tone Hyperpigmentation is caused by several factors, including excess melanin production, which is often triggered by inflammation, hor mone imbalance, genetics, pollution, injury, chemical/ingredient reactions, and UV light.1-3 The most common for ms of hyperpigmentation include sunspots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which can occur after skin injuries such as acne scars 4,5

Hyperpigmentation is not completely preventable due to its multiple causes; it is the third most common der matological disorder and can cause psychosocial impair ment.3 6-10 Everyone is impacted by hyperpigmentation, but not equally Individuals with darker skin types are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation Dendy Engelman, M D , a board-certified der matological surgeon stated, “Brown skin is more prone to pigmentation because it tends to produce more pigment in response to injury, whether it’s sun damage or picking at a pimple.”7,9

Treatments, for hyperpigmentation include laser treatments which can be very expensive, and topical treatments, which also have their limitations For example, for many years hydroquinone was the leading and most common ingredient used topically to reduce hyperpigmentation, but regulation changes and negative side effects have limited its use Hydroquinone has been banned in the European Union, Australia, and Japan, and has restricted usage in Canada, U.S., and United Kingdom 6,7 Further more, excessive and prolonged usage of hydroquinone can lead to further skin unevenness with a “halo effect” and/or pigment rebound.5,7,8 Hydroquinone derivatives are also facing restrictions, and other chemistries are gradually being scrutinized

Consumers continue to seek topical treatments to prevent or try to reduce hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C, niacinamide, alphahydroxy acids (AHAs), and retinoids are the most common ingredients used in skin brightening topical treatments The key targets for treating and preventing hyperpigmentation are melanosome transfer inhibitors, tyrosinase inhibitors, alpha-melanin stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) inhibitors, anti-inflammatory actives, and actives that increase cell turnover 8 Overall, there are several ingredients that take aim at each key target but no ingredient that addresses all the key targets to provide a single complete solution

Social media platfor ms have increasingly influenced the education, standards, and treatment of skin concer ns like hyperpigmentation Influencers on Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube have had both positive and negative impacts on the moder n cosmetics market. On the positive side, they have raised awareness, helped destigmatize hyperpigmentation, offered product and ingredient recommendations, and made skincare knowledge more accessible However, they have also contributed to the spread of viral misinfor mation, often reaching a wide audience before it can be corrected by fact checkers or experts (continued on Page 6)

BOARD & COMMITTEE

Chair John Carola chair@nyscc.org

Chair-Elect

Anushka Nadkar ni chair-elect@nyscc org

Treasurer Diane Dabkowski treasurer@nyscc org

Secretary Mythili Nori secretary@nyscc org

Advisor Amber Evans advisor@nyscc org

Program Alexis Piterski program@nyscc.org

At Home Live Series

Susanna Fer nandes Susanna.Fer nandes@tri-k.com

By-Laws and Membership

Cathy Piterski cpiterski@essentialingredients com

Communications

Dejour Waite

Revathi Nair socialmedia@nyscc org

House Chair

Afam Okoro house@nyscc org

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti

johanna e gigliotti@gmail com

Cosmetiscope Editor

Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu.edu

Cosmetiscope Advertising

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

Letter from the Chair

It’s hard to believe that February is here! We came out of the gate strong this year, and I anticipate that NYSCC activities will continue to gain momentum and bring high value to our members and the industry

January was highlighted by the launch of our new website. If you ’ ve not seen it, I urge you to visit www.nyscc.org and experience the sleek, fresh design It is easier to navigate all the programs offered by the NYSCC, while also experiencing a totally transfor med Suppliers’ Day site that certainly showcases it as the leading North American Expo!

In January, the NYSCC participated in a historic partnering with three other chapters LISCC, CTSCC, and NESCC to produce an incredible special event that took networking to the next level Our joint ski trip to Killington, VT, included a terrific guest speaker, AAK’s Alyssa Elvambuena, as well as some great conditions throughout the weekend, and special activities to keep the non-skiers busy! Kudos to the organizers, Brian Ecclefield and Gita Calton, for all their hard work on this memorable event. We also hosted a Press and Friends Breakfast in Miami Beach on January 22nd Furthering our 2025 theme of partnership and collaboration, this event was co-hosted by FLSCC and IBA (Independent Beauty Association), attracting over 70 participants including press, association executives, Suppliers’ Day Exhibitor Advisory Committee members, and exhibitors These gatherings have become staples in our communications program, and we are thrilled to see them growing!

Our first educational program for 2025 will be held February 20, 2025, at the Liberty Science Center It is a great venue to host content curated by the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee This Technology and Science Showcase will include everything from A I and Clean Beauty to Supplements and Textured Hair Claims It is not to be missed! The February event is also a pilot program giving SCC members complimentary admission, so we urge you to register now as space is limited

Looking forward: March’s program will be Innovating with Purpose: Transfor ming Trends into Breakthrough Products And, in 60 days, we will again celebrate Earth “month” with Comprehensive Approach to Sustainability And, on top of that we are looking at another sold-out Suppliers’ Day in the expanded Jacob K Javits Convention Center exhibit halls We have new educational and program offerings to match our increased footprint Register now so you are kept updated on all that is scheduled for this iconic event.

W ithout a doubt, there is a lot happening at the NYSCC, so be sure to visit our website, attend the programs, and register for Suppliers’ Day, if you ’ ve not already done so! We look forward to seeing you soon!

Call for Papers

The Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested partie to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Cor ner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor

Please send correspondence to: roger mcmullen@fdu.edu.

While these platfor ms can help consumers navigate the vast array of skincare products, it’s important to approach viral posts with caution and conduct further research

The global skin brightening product market continues to grow, valued at $9 22 billion in 2023 This market is expected to reach $16 42 billion by 2032, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6 85% The Asia Pacific region currently leads the market, holding 53 7% of the market share in 2023 11,12 As demand for clean and effective products rises, there will be an increase in the development of innovative ingredients through new techniques and processes. For example, in 2022 BASF partnered with Caregen to create biomimetic peptides designed to brighten skin. This ingredient features a unique blend of mechanisms, including inhibiting melanin synthesis, blocking tyrosinase, reducing the production of melanin-related enzymes and transcription factors, limiting melanin uptake, and enhancing melanosome degradation 13 This multifunctional ingredient provides broader efficacy than the commonly used solutions on the market. As the demand for targeted hyperpigmentation solutions grows, more partnerships like this are expected to emerge, creating unique and effective treatments. In conclusion, hyperpigmentation is a complex condition creating challenges with treatment and prevention As one of the leading skin concer ns with significant psychosocial impacts, it continues to drive innovation in the skincare industry Whether targeting melanin production or addressing inflammation, advancements in skincare science are creating more effective and inclusive solutions The rise of social media has led to an increase in infor med consumers, but social media is also replete with misleading or false statements This has unquestionably heightened awareness and access to infor mation about hyperpigmentation and other top skin concer ns

References

W ith growing demand for efficacious products, the industry is primed for future growth and innovation Hyperpigmentation may be complicated, but with advancements in skincare science and a focus on consumer education, we may be closer to helping people find solutions that work for their unique skin needs

1 Callender V, St Surin-Lord S, Davis E, Maclin M Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation Am J Clin Der mat 2011; 12(2):87-99; https://doi.org/10.2165/11536930-000000000-00000

2 Cayce K, McMichael A, Feldman S Hyperpigmentation: An overview of the common afflictions Der matol Nurs. 2004; 16(5):401-406.

3 Desai S Hyperpigmentation therapy: A review J Clin Aesthet Der matol 2014; 7(8):13-17

4. Wang R, Ko D, Friedman B, Lim H, Mohammad T (2022). Disorders of hyperpigmentation. Part I Pathogenesis and clinical features of common pigmentary disorders J Am Acad Der matol 2022; 88(2):271-288; https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2022.01.051

5. Shi Y, Zeng Z, Liu J, Pi Z, Zou P, Deng Q, Ma X, Qiao F, Xiong W, Zhou C, Zeng Q, Xiao R. (2021) Particulate matter promotes hyperpigmentation via AhR/MAPK signaling activation and by increasing alpha-MSH paracrine levels in keratinocytes. Environ Pollut. 2021; 278:116850; https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envpol.2021.116850

6 Nieuweboer-Krobotova L Hyperpigmentation: Types, diagnostics, and targeted treatment options J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2013; 27(Suppl 1):2-4; https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.12048

7. Pandya A, Guevara I. Disorders of hyperpigmentation. Der matologic Clinics. 2000; 18(1):91-98; https://doi.org/10.1016/S0733-8635(05)70150-9

8 Kaus J See spots? Treating hyperpigmentation Mayo Clinic Health System; July 19, 2021; https://www.mayoclinichealthsystem.org/hometown-health/speaking-of-health/seeingspots-treating-hyperpigmentation Accessed February 7, 2025

9. Allen M, Hopp D. How to even out discoloration on darker skin tones. Byrdie; June 6, 2022; https://www.byrdie.com/how-to-get-rid-of-dark-spots Accessed February 7, 2025

10 Tian X, Cui Z, Liu S, Zhou J, Cui R Melanosome transport and regulation in development and disease Phar macol Ther 2021; 219:107707; https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pharmthera.2020.107707

11. Fortune Business Insights. Skin lightening products market size, share, and industry analysis, by for m (creams, soaps, lotions, gels, and others), by for mulation (synthetic and organic and natural), by end-user (women and men), by distribution channel (hyper markets and super markets, specialty stores, phar macy stores, online channels, and others), and regional forecast, 2024-2032 https://www.fortunebusinessinsights.com/skin-lightening-productsmarket-110570. Accessed February 7, 2025.

12 Grand View Research Skin lightening products market size, share, and trends analysis report by product (creams, cleanser, mask), by nature, by region, and segment forecasts, 2022-2030. https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/skin-lightening-products-market Accessed February 7, 2025

13. BASF Active Ingredient Finder. https://www.personal-care.basf.com/productsformulation/products/ Accessed February 7, 2025

About the Author

Anne Young is the Director of Business and Development at Biocogent. Anne has previously held several leadership roles including: Director of Cosmeceutical Active Ingredients at Unigen, Inc , where she oversaw global sales and the R&D pipeline; Director of North America – Cosmetics Active Ingredients at Expanscience, managing the North American market; Global Product Development and Technology Manager at Vantage Specialty Ingredients; Technical Service for Active Ingredients at BASF; Lubricant Development Technologist at Infineum USA LP, where she led the Global R&D platfor m on LSPI; Senior Scientist at L’Oréal USA; and Senior Scientist at Johnson & Johnson Consumer & Personal Products Worldwide Anne holds a Ph D in Chemistry from New York University She has several patents, authored numerous scientific papers, and has received numerous awards.

Sav e th e Date ...

2025 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org

• For National SCC information: www.scconline.org

February 20 Technical Showcase – Science and Technology

Liberty Science Center, Jersey City, NJ

March 19

Trend Surge: Power Moves in Hair and Skin Care Innovation

Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ

April 16 Comprehensive Approach to Sustainability

Brooklake Events, Morristown, NJ

June 3-4

Suppliers’ Day

Jacob K Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

June 3 NYSCC Industry Awards Night

New York, NY

July 28 Golf Outing

Crystal Springs, Hamburg, NJ

August 9 Fishing Trip

Atlantic Highlands, NJ

September 10 Sensory Event

Venetian, Garfield, NJ

October 16

November 12

Rheology Event

Jay Conference Bryant Park, New York, NY

Demystifying Biotechnology: 360 Degree Look from Ingredient to Brand Liberty House, NJ

NYSCC Employment Section

Are you looking for a candidate that loves the personal care industry, who the thrill of designing a make-up product or shampoo? Or perhaps you are someone with expertise in raw materials. Maybe you need some help the lab and could use a tenacious inter n who wants to start their career in the personal care space

The NYSCC Chapter supports you and your business with FREE postings to our webpage Contact employmentadmin@nyscc.org to have passionate candidates apply to your roles. Recent postings include companies such as Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Kenvue, Olaplex, and Symrise for roles in Sales, Marketing, For mulations, and Regulatory

Below are some positions in the personal care industry that are currently posted on the NYSCC website For a full description of the jobs, visit https://nyscc.org/jobs

• East Coast Sales Representative – Independent Chemical Corporation – East Coast

• Cosmetic Lab Chemist – SMA Collaboratives – Pompano Beach, FL

• East Coast Sales Representative, Personal Care – Omya – New Jersey

Technical Showcase –Science

and

Technology

February 20, 2025 • 2:30 – 8:30 p.m.

Liberty Science Center, Jersey City, NJ

The NYSCC Scientific Committee is thrilled to announce a spe conference showcasing cutting-edge advancements in cosmet science and technology This exclusive event offers a platfor m for committee members to present the latest research, technologies, and insights to society members, fostering collaboration and innovation across the industry. This event is a not-to-be-missed opportunity and is complimentary for all current SCC members!

This dynamic lineup promises to deliver valuable insights and inspir innovation within the cosmetic science community Don’t miss this opportu to stay at the forefront of cosmetic science!

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC’s website (www.nyscc.org)

Moderator: Hani Fares, Ph.D. (Sr. Director, Ashland, Inc.)

Topics and Speakers

• Beauty from Within: Strategies for Improved Efficacy of Your Topical Formulations Through Supplementation

– Michael Anthonavage, M S (VP of Innovation, Vitaquest Inter national LLC)

• The Evolution of Clean Beauty

– Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph D (Founder, DellAcqua Consulting)

• Breaking the AGE-RAGE Axis: The Role of Natural Products in Combating Skin Inflammaging

– Hang Ma, Ph.D. (Research Assistant Professor, University of Rhode Island, College of Phar macy)

• Developing Robust Textured Hair Claim Substantiation Methods Through a Comprehensive Understanding of Consumer Needs

– Mythili Nori, M S (Senior Scientist, Perfor mance and Claims, BASF)

• Coacervation in Personal Care Rinse-Off Products

– Roger L McMullen, Ph D (Principal Scientist, Ashland, Inc )

• Beauty Meets Intelligence: Transforming Cosmetic Formulation with AI

– Jane Yoo, M.D. (Assistant Clinical Professor, Icahn School of Medicine and CEO of Jane Yoo, MD, PLLC)

Event Agenda

2:30 – 3:00 p m Registration and Reception

3:00 – 3:30 p m Opening Remarks and NYSCC Scientific Committee

Introduction by Hani Fares, Ph D

3:30 – 5:00 p m 3 x 30-Minute Presentations

5:00 – 5:20 p m Break

5:20 – 6:50 p.m. 3 x 30-Minute Presentations

6:50 – 7:00 p.m. Move to EY Room

7:00 – 8:00 p m Dinner

8:00 – 8:30 p m Closing Remarks and Social

brenntag.com

Criteria:

• U.S. sophmores and juniors (undergraduate c/o 2026-2027)

• Major in cosmetic science or related scientific fields

• Minimum GPA of 3.0

• Interest in a career in the cosmetic industry

For further information please contact: John Carola, Chair chair@nyscc.org

Amber Evans, Advisor advisor@nyscc org

Employment Admin employmentadmin@nyscc.org

Innovating with Purpose: Transforming Trends into Breakthrough Products

March 19, 2025

9:30 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

The Legacy Castle Pequannock Township, NJ

Join us for an educational event where industry pionee share how they transform emerging trends into groundbre products. Discover strategies for purposeful innova explore key market insights, and lear n how to create impact lasting solutions in the beauty and personal care space

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org)