OCTOBER 2019 • Vol. 25 No. 8
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
Natural Ingredients—Science and Efficacy
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…by Giorgio Dell’Acqua
osmetics based on natural ingredients have boomed in the personal care market parallel to a consumer demand for purity, safety, and efficacy. Although technology-based products and natural products have been historically growing as separate categories, nowadays it is possible to merge them by developing natural ingredient into innovative products with proven efficacy, while maintaining their positive image of purity, eco-friendliness, and sustainability.
Natural Products and Testing The use of natural products has risen in recent years since they are associated with health and well being. In fact, products derived from biological agricultural sources have experienced tremendous growth in the food and nutraceuticals marketplace as consumers eagerly seek plants with health benefits. Plant extracts from maca root, turmeric root, camu camu fruit, ashwagandha fruit, baobab fruit, and many other exotic plants are finding their way as supplements into the superfood category, since they contain high levels of vitamins, minerals, or other active molecules. These extracts are often marketed as energy boosters but also have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and adaptogenic properties due to their high ORAC values and their history of use in traditional medicine. In the late 1990s, natural extracts drove marketing claims based on the properties of their plant origins, often linked to the plant’s antioxidant profile or wound-healing capacity, but with little tested or proven efficacy.1 These claims were mostly anecdotal and derived
from ethnobotanical literature, but often difficult to validate. The lack of welldesigned scientific studies on skin for these extracts limited the understanding of their real scientific value. Furthermore, research was often confined to universities or research centers with little experience in technology transfer, requiring excessive time and costs to deliver results, and lacking standardized protocols to research skin applications. This setting limited the ability to evaluate, qualitatively and quantitatively, the in vitro and clinical efficacy of natural extracts. Also, most data were published in local scientific journals difficult to access, not always peer-reviewed and with a low impact factor. In the early 2000s, things began to change when technology and science became available for both developing the extracts and testing them.2,3 Initially, technologies such as genomics, proteomics, and metabolomics (also called the omics) were mostly confined to universities, the pharmaceutical industry, and the imaging industry (including devices to quantify skin surface profiles and wrinkles, or measure skin color intensity).4 Eventually, access to these technologies changed and they became more readily available and at a reasonable cost at specific CROs, making them accessible to the cosmetic scientist. Today, it is possible to obtain reproducible scientific data on natural ingredients to create naturally derived products with proven efficacy. However, it is often necessary to transform a natural raw material into a natural active ingredient to be able to fully study its efficacy. (Continued on page 4)
F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H N A T U R A L I N G R E D I E N T S October 16th • Venetian, Garfield, NJ
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2019 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Sonia Dawson chair@nyscc.org
CHAIR-ELECT Gino Macalino chair-elect@nyscc.org
TREASURER Stephen Carter treasurer@nyscc.org
TREASURER-ELECT Mohamed Abdulla treasurer-elect@nyscc.org
SECRETARY Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org
ADVISOR Cathy Piterski advisor@nyscc.org
HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org
MEMBERSHIP Open Position
PROGRAM Susanna Fernandes fernandes.susie@gmail.com
COMMUNICATIONS Andrea Gafford webmaster@nyscc.org
SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR Susan Doose sbdoose@googlemail.com
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
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Letter from the Chair
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…Sonia Dawson
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eptember was a busy month for the Chapter—and October promises to keep pace! The educational programs in September resonated with our members, contract manufacturers, and product development executives in the cosmetic and personal care industries. The NYSCC Scientific Committee, once again, hosted a scientific panel this year focusing on Clean Beauty at MakeUp in New York led by Giorgio Dell’Acqua on behalf of the Committee. Phytochemistry was the theme of our September monthly workshop. Dr. Jat Rana provided technical insight on this exciting topic to a crowd of 85 in attendance. Topping off the busy month was the much-soughtafter Culinary Event—sold out for the fourth year in a row! Board members have been busy globetrotting, representing the Chapter and NYSCC Suppliers’ Day at the Florida SCC Sunscreen Symposium in Orlando, California Suppliers’ Day in Long Beach, and IFSCC Conference in Milan. As these endeavors conclude, we anticipate great success while providing the opportunity for three lucky winners to win a trip to New York City for Suppliers’ Day in May, which includes registration for a pre-day CEP course of their choice! Check out our social media posts to see the winners! October’s monthly program will be held on Wednesday, October 16th at the Venetian: “The Challenges and Opportunities of Formulating with Naturals.” Visit the NYSCC website for complete details and registration. And, do not forget to check out our blog, which features technical information on our monthly programs to support and enhance your overall experience at the event. You may have noticed that we have also been publishing a newsletter featuring the NYSCC Blog and articles by members willing to share their technical expertise. This is published in conjunction with NYSCC Suppliers’ Day and is meant to provide you with a roadmap of all that is offered and all you can take advantage of through your NYSCC membership. Don’t forget that the “NYSCC Supports Education” event takes place on December 17th at Stage 48 in New York City in conjunction with the Annual SCC Meeting. Sponsorships are available and include tickets to the event. All members are encouraged to attend—and to consider requesting sponsorship by your organization. These opportunities are open to suppliers, brands, solutions providers, and stakeholders involved in NYSCC. This is a charitable endeavor that results in thousands of dollars granted to cosmetic chemistry programs in regional colleges and universities. Our goal is to surpass last year’s college/university grants and expand the number of schools awarded these scholarships! Be sure to read through this entire issue of Cosmetiscope and mark your calendar for upcoming NYSCC events. I look forward to seeing you!
P.S.: As a reminder, NYSCC elections are taking place now! If you have not cast your vote, please do so today. Elections will only be open for a few short weeks. We are looking forward to getting the 2020 board in place and ready to hit the ground running after the New Year!
Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies that send five or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees must be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
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Natural Ingredients—Science and Efficacy
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(Continued from page 1)
Standardized Extracts A natural raw material needs to be processed through a specific procedure and it can be optimized for a targeted application. To achieve this task several assays in addition to analytical and stability tests are required. By using specific extraction procedures (and depending on the solubility of the active molecules), families of compounds can be isolated from the raw material as fractions and, if stable, these fractions may provide efficacy at lower concentrations compared to the initial raw material and its extract. During the extraction process, it is also possible to remove specific unwanted molecules present in the extract and prevent the cytotoxicity associated with these molecules. When analyzed, fractions rich in polyphenols show superior antioxidant activity compared with the crude extract at the same concentration.5 Also, specific fractions obtained with different solvents can provide different activities than the original extract.6 Eventually, the fractions can be “standardized� for specific active molecules, often the most represented in the extract. Efficacy testing can then be conducted at physiological concentrations of the standardized extract on screening models in vitro or ex vivo; when these standardized extracts are screened successfully in vitro using very low concentrations, the chances of succeeding in a follow-up clinical trial are generally higher. Screening often involves, as already discussed, genomics and proteomic testing. These data add credibility to the science behind the standardized extract.7
Formulation Advantage A concentrated, standardized extract is an easy ingredient to formulate. By concentrating it and selecting the appropriate extract fraction, it is often possible to reduce its color, scent, and the presence of unwanted molecules. Moreover, since less of the extract would be added in the formulation due to its high activity, the impact of color and scent on the formula would be lower as well. The lack of contaminants reduces the risk of incompatibilities with other ingredients and improves overall formula stability. These ingredient concentrations, having previously been tested, should correspond to a real benefit for the targeted application. Increased purity of the extracts would also reduce solubility issues and avoid unwanted insoluble material precipitation over time and make analytical identification of the major and minor components in the extract easier, with a better understanding of safety and any potential toxicity.
Concluding Remarks The boom of natural products in the cosmetic industry is accompanied by increased scrutiny by consumers seeking purity, sustainability, and safety as well as scientifically validated claims. It is therefore necessary for the industry to embrace the latest available technology and test the efficacy of their natural products using a solid scientific approach. Marketing natural ingredients in a product using proven scientific claims is essential. Whether it is a minimally processed raw material or a tuned active ingredient, analytical and life science tools can contribute to build the scientific portfolio around these products. 4
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References 1. A. Chiu and A.B. Kimball, Topical vitamins, minerals and botanical ingredients as modulators of environmental and chronological skin damage, Br. J. Dermatol., 149(4), 681–691 (2003). 2. A.F. Stallings and M.P. Lupo, Practical uses of botanicals in skin care, J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol., 2, 36–40 (2009). 3. J.G. Fowler, H. Woolery-Lloyd, H. Waldorf, and R. Saini, Innovations in natural ingredients and their use in skin care, J. Drugs Dermatol., 9 (Suppl. 6), S72-81 (2010). 4. T.M. Callaghan and K.P. Wilhelm, A review of aging and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of aging skin. Part 2: Clinical perspectives and clinical methods in the evaluation of aging skin, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 30, 323–332 (2008). 5. W. Cordier, M. Gulumian, A.D. Cromarty, and V. Steenkamp, Attenuation of oxidative stress in U937 cells by polyphenolic-rich bark fractions of Burkea africana and Syzygium cordatum, BMC Complement. Altern. Med., 13, 116–128 (2013). 6. C. Mfenyana, D. DeBeer, E. Joubert, and A. Louw, Selective extraction of Cyclopia for enhanced in vitro phytoestrogenicity and benchmarking against commercial phytoestrogen extracts, J. Steroid Biochem. Mol. Biol., 112, 74-86 (2008). 7. A. Rai, K. Saito, and M. Yamazaki, Integrated omics analysis of specialized metabolism in medicinal plants, Plant J., 90(4), 764-787 (2017).
About the Author
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iorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D., is a cosmetic scientist and consultant for the personal care industry. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market and has authored more than 60 publications in medicine and cosmetic science. For the last 10 years he has been writing and lecturing on natural cosmetic ingredients, sustainable supply chain, and helped sourcing, developing, and bringing to market many natural ingredients. He is passionate about green economy and social justice. In recent years, he has published and lectured about sustainable development, social progress, microfinance, and social and financial inclusion. He is an award-winning speaker on natural ingredients and a regular columnist on sustainability and cosmetic science. He is also the chair of the Scientific Committee for the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists and its scientific blogger.
Upcoming 2019 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org October 16 The Challenges and Opportunities of Formulating with Naturals, Venetian, Garfield, NJ November 13 Sunscreens and Antioxidants – Perfect Together, Liberty Science Center, Jersey City, NJ December 17 NYSCC Supports Education Night, Stage 48, New York, NY
Call for Papers
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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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High Performance Ingredients for Skin and Hair Care
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The Challenges and Opportunities of Formulating with Naturals October 16th • 2:30 – 9:00 p.m. Venetian, Garfield, NJ
Smooth, mild, natural and stable
www.charkit.com ww w ww.charkit.com | 203-299-3220
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Event Chair: Timothy Duzick • Timothy.Duzick@sensient.com
he origins of the cosmetic industry can be traced back to antiquity with the Egyptians, who used lead and copper ore as makeup. Along the way, various berries and ash found their way into makeup routines. In recent times, cosmetic ingredients have migrated to synthetic, as well as natural derivatives. Today, there is a concerted push by consumers for a return to natural and safe ingredients. However, there are significant challenges in developing products using natural ingredients. Sourcing, efficacy, formulation, and compatibility issues must be taken into consideration when a cosmetic product is conceived and developed. The goal of this session is not to define what is natural or debate the merits of using natural ingredients—an ISO standard is in place, and consumers have spoken! This session will help bring clarity to the challenges that we all face and provide a forum to discuss ways to overcome these challenges. The session will begin with presentations by five experts in various fields in the cosmetic industry, followed by a panel discussion where questions submitted by attendees are addressed. Please come join us for a memorable event.
Agenda 2:30 – 3:00 p.m. Registration and Refreshments 3:00 – 3:45 p.m. Sourcing for Natural Ingredients: Challenges and Perspectives – Dr. Vergel Concibido (Sensient) 3:45 – 4:30 p.m. Natural Ingredients and Science (The Efficacy Behind the Naturals) – Ingredients Development – Dr. Giorgio Dell’Acqua (Dellacqua Consulting) 4:30 – 5:15 p.m. Challenges of Developing Natural Cosmetic Products – Luciana Coutinho (Luluble) 5:15 – 6:00 p.m. Beauty and Naturals: Indie Brands to Market – Franca Zanovello (Zanovello Consultants) 6:00 – 7:00 p.m. Dinner 7:00 – 7:45 p.m. Hair Care and Natural (CPG to Market) – Product Development – Dr. Jennifer Marsh (Procter and Gamble) 7:45 – 8:00 p.m. Attendee’s Prepare and Submit Questions to the Panel 8:00 – 9:00 p.m. Panel Discussion: Dr. Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Moderator
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Speaker Abstracts and Biographies
Sourcing for Natural Ingredients: Challenges and Perspectives
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– Vergel Concibido (Sensient)
ncreasing consumer demand for products made from clean, safe, and sustainable ingredients heightens the imperative for companies to respond by sourcing natural ingredients, such as raw botanicals, meeting those stringent specifications. Sensient will present its global agronomy program and how it proactively responds to this demand through a “seed-to-shelf” strategy focused on ethical and responsible ingredient sourcing. Sourcing for Natural Ingredients: Challenges and Perspectives addresses the unique challenges of sustainably growing and sourcing botanicals through effective collaboration with farmers, academics, and key stakeholders.
n Vergel
Concibido, Ph.D.
Dr. Vergel Concibido is the Global Agronomy Lead for Sensient Colors, LLC, where he spearheads the company’s seed-to-shelf program. Dr. Concibido has over two decades of experience in plant science and is a prolific innovator with 30 issued patents. He currently leads a worldwide research program developing innovative solutions to the challenges of utilizing botanicals as natural colorants. __________________________________________________
Natural Ingredients and Science (The Efficacy Behind the Naturals) – Ingredients Development – Giorgio Dell’Acqua (Dellacqua Consulting)
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he use of cosmetics based on natural products have grown tremendously in the personal care market parallel to a consumer demand for purity, safety, and efficacy. Traditionally, technological and natural products have existed as distinct entities in the personal care arena. Today, it is possible to develop the purest and most ethical natural ingredient into a product with scientific edge and proven efficacy. With advances in technology and science for both developing and testing, it is possible to increase the safety profile and take advantage of the efficacy of natural ingredients while maintaining their positive image of purity, eco-friendliness, and sustainability. A growing new category of ingredients and products embracing both nature and science is developing, which at the same time engages in marketing the quality of their supply chain. Examples of ingredients with a scientific edge, such as exotic oils, marine derived algae, and rare plant extracts, will be discussed.
n Giorgio
BEAUTY
begins here. Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care. GO
Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.
Dr. Giorgio Dell’Acqua is a cosmetic scientist and consultant for the personal care industry. A graduate from the University of Rome, Italy, he worked for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research in Universities such as Mount Sinai Medical School in New York and Harvard Medical School in Boston. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 19 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. He specializes in skin and hair care ingredients, finished product development, and technical marketing. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market and has authored more than 60 publications in medicine and cosmetic science. In the last 10 years he has written and lectured on natural cosmetic ingredients and sustainable supply chain and has helped source, develop, and bring to market many natural ingredients. Some of his recent product development activity is focused on food byproducts for cosmetics, prebiotics for skin, and adaptogens for skin and hair care. He is an award-winning speaker on natural ingredients and a regular columnist on sustainability and cosmetic science. He is also the chair of the Scientific Committee for the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists and its scientific blogger. __________________________________________________
Challenges of Developing Natural Cosmetic Products – Luciano Coutinho (Luluble)
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atural cosmetic products have been in an uprising trend in the past decade and cosmetic companies around the globe are seeking to develop and launch their own “natural” product to draw the attention (Continued on page 8) of green-seeking consumers. Yet, developing natural cosmetics is filled with
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The Challenges and Opportunities of Formulating with Natural Ingredients complexities due to the simple fact that cosmetic products do not exist in nature. This talk will address some of the major challenges in developing cosmetics that are claimed “natural”. It includes defining what is natural, creating products that are functional, and preserving them properly. n Luciano
Coutinho
Luciana Coutinho is the founder and chief product officer of Luluble, a firm specializing in product development of topical formulations for the cosmetic, OTC, and medical device industry. Luciana earned a B.S. in Chemical Engineering, Certification in Cosmetic Technology, and M.S. in Analytical Chemistry. She has distinguished herself as a product development technical expert and brand strategist with comprehensive insight of CGP with more than 20 years of experience. Luciana has worked for several companies including Avon Products, Reckitt Benckiser, and Prestige Consumer Healthcare. She developed formulations, managed and expanded brands, mentored scientists, and led R&D product development laboratories, winning awards and recognition for her work. Some of the brands she launched include Summer’s Eve, Nix, Little Remedies, Clearasil, Dettol, Avon Sun, Skin So Soft, Moisture Therapy, and Avon Men. _____________________________________________
We have got all your Beauty Needs Covered
Beauty and Naturals: Indie Brands to Market – Franca Zanovello (Zanovello Consultants)
Johanna Gigliotti johanna@deverauxspecialties.com Paolo Marchesi paolo@deverauxspecialties.com www.DeverauxSpecialties.com
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ith the rise of natural beauty, customers’ fast-changing demands, and retailers’ running-in-theclean cosmetics race, the business of launching and building beauty brands is increasingly more complex, competitive, and challenging. In this presentation, we will review the “Brand Pie” and key success factors as well as some of the opportunities and challenges that Indie beauty brands face today. By the end of the presentation, we will address what it takes to bring these products to market.
n Franca
Zanovello
Franca Zanovello is a specialist in business development for the cosmetic industry. She is the founder and president of Zanovello Consultants, a boutique brand management, business development, and distribution company specialized in beauty and wellness brands. Established in 2007, the company focuses on sales, marketing, operations, strategy, and business development for beauty lines which are just launching as well as globally established brands in the U.S. market. With over 20 years of executive experience in marketing, sales, and distribution for luxury beauty brands, both U.S. and international, Franca spearheaded the North American launch of the iconic luxury Italian brand Acqua di Parma. During her tenure as Acqua di Parma North America brand director for six years, Franca established all key accounts for the now-global brand. She then developed strong distribution models for exclusive niche skincare and fragrance brands including Santa Maria Novella, Carthusia, Nasomatto, Miller Harris-London, and Kahina Giving Beauty. She also collaborated in the expansion and growth of brands such as Serge Lutens, Shiseido, and Bakel Skincare among others. In recent years, Franca has been focusing her work and collaborations within the green beauty industry, launching and/or developing the market for numerous organic and natural skincare, wellness, and fragrance brands including Jurlique skincare, Kahina skincare, Dr. Alkaitis skincare, Bottega Organica skincare, Ojai Wild botanical fragrances, H Gillerman Organics, Kreyol Essence Haircare, and Bodycare. _____________________________________________
Hair Care and Natural (CPG to Market) – Product Development – Dr. Jennifer Marsh (Procter & Gamble)
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or Procter & Gamble, providing a delightful product experience for consumers seeking natural products is a primary focus. As we include botanical and natural actives in these products, we have five key principles that guide our design choices: performance, safety, quality, sustainability, and transparency. In this presentation, we will discuss these five areas and how they are important to our product development pursuits. One specific aspect of this work is validating the authenticity and quality of our botanical ingredients in collaboration with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Kew was founded in 1759 and has built
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the most diverse botanical resource collection in the world including more than 7 million dried plants and 50,000 plant DNA samples representing >95% of the known flowering genera. These resources are assisting with the selection of the best sources of sustainably grown quality plants of optimum bioactivity. n Jennifer
Marsh, Ph.D.
Dr. Jennifer Marsh has been working with P&G for 24 years in a variety of roles including consumer research, product development, and technology development. The majority of her early career was spent working as a technologist in hair color during which she developed new damage control technologies for P&G’s Clairol Nice N’ Easy Brand as well as a new oxidant system launched in 2008 as Nice N Easy Perfect 10. For the past 10 years she has been part of the Beauty Technology Division working on hair color and hair care technologies including new actives for Pantene and other hair care brands. As part of this work she is investigating natural actives that deliver consumer relevant benefits. Her primary focus is building fundamental technical models and translating these insights into new technologies and technical product stories. Dr. Marsh has published 20 papers in the area of hair structure and hair color science and presented her work at many external conferences. Dr. Marsh holds more than 30 patents. Previously, she held a post-doctoral position at Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas, USA working on the synthesis of water-soluble luminescent gold complexes. She obtained her Ph.D. in Synthetic Inorganic Chemistry at Wolfson College, University of Oxford.
SILAB creates and manufactures unique, consistently safe, natural active ingredients with proven efficacy.
You need more information about our products? Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.: email: silabinc@silabinc.com phone: 732-335-1030
engineering natural active ingredients
_____________________________________________
Registration: SCC Members: $35 online/$70 at door Non-SCC Members: $75 online/$110 at door
Students: $10 online/$50 at door Emeritus: Free online/$40 at door
To register, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
Event Location: Venetian • 546 River Drive, Garfield, NJ • Tel: (973) 546-2250
Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.
n Full-time Sales Representative – Northeast Carribean Natural Products • Northeastern U.S.
n Sales Representative Independent Chemical • Northeastern U.S.
n Associate Scientist – Makeup Formulation The Estée Lauder Companies • Melville, NY
n Personal Care Account Representative Superior Materials, Inc. • Northeastern U.S.
n Scientist – Skincare Formulation The Estée Lauder Companies • Melville, NY
n Marketing Manager Miyoshi America, Inc. • Dayville, CT
n Regional Sales Manager – Western Territory IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics • West Coast, U.S.
n Junior Formulation Chemist Raining Rose • Cedar Rapids, IA
n Account Manager Chemyunion, Inc. • East Coast, U.S.
n Documentation Specialist Raining Rose • Cedar Rapids, IA
n Associate Director – Business Manager TRI-K Industries, Inc. • Denville, NJ
n Cosmetic Formulation Chemist Tata Harper Skin Care • Whiting, VT
n Category Marketing Manager TRI-K Industries, Inc. • Denville, NJ
n Process Engineer Skin Care, Fragrances, and Toiletries Coty, Inc. • Morris Plains, NJ
n Senior Scientist – Skin Care The Estée Lauder Companies • Melville, NY V O L U M E
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SAVE THE?DATE Engineering Cosmetics and Consumer Products Conference November 9-10, 2019 Hyatt Regency, Orlando, FL The Conference on Engineering Cosmetics and Consumer Products (ECCP) will discuss research and development as well as process engineering, product engineering, innovation, and packaging. Session topics include: • Process engineering • Product engineering • Package engineering • Open innovation • Regulatory issues, safety, compliance • Sustainability Academic, clinical, and industrial researchers are invited to submit their own discoveries. You can also share this invitation with colleagues who might be interested in collaborating. This conference provides a perfect opportunity to share, network, and learn.
CONFERENCE CO-CHAIRS Samiul Amin Manhattan College Lilian Josephson EcoLab
ORGANIZING COMMITTEE Stephanie Lam GlaxoSmithKline Shamsheer Mohammad Kraft Heinz Company Seher Ozkan Ashland Amar Pawar Momentive Prabhjyot Singh Clariant
For more information: https://www.aiche.org/conferences/conference-on-engineering-cosmetics-and-consumer-products/2019
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Sunscreens and Antioxidants – Perfect Together November 13th • 7:30 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. Liberty Science Center, Jersey City, NJ Event Chair: Joseph Albanese • joealbanese2@gmail.com
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he symposium seeks to advance the science of prevention and repair of UV-induced bodily damage to benefit public health and beauty. Initially geared toward the cosmetic chemist engaged in formulating sunscreen products, the central theme originated from the following sentence gleamed from the pages of Antioxidants and the Skin by Dr. Roger L. McMullen: “Overall, it appears that the addition of antioxidants to sun protection formulas can provide superior benefits if there are no prooxidant effects, as evidenced by scientific literature and the number of commercial formulations containing antioxidants.” While the central theme remains the same, the range of topics for the symposium has expanded beyond just sunscreen formulations that contain antioxidants. Attendees will also learn from many experts speaking on regulatory issues, testing methodologies, biochemistry of UV effects on skin (and hair), innovative ingredients, and self-tanners. One person described the format of the program as “speed dating for cosmetic chemists”. All speakers, with the exception of the keynote speaker, will be given 15 minutes to drive home their message. This format will result in an event that is both educational and lively.
Agenda 7:30 – 9:00 a.m. Registration and Continental Breakfast 9:00 – 9:20 a.m. New Proposed FDA Regulations – Dr. Nadim Shaath (Alpha Research & Development, Ltd.) 9:20 – 9:40 a.m. DNA Damage from Sun Exposure – Can Anti-Oxidants Protect It? – Dr. Nava Dayan (Dr. Nava Dayan, LLC) 9:40 - 10:00 a.m. UV Filter (UVF) and Antioxidant (AOX) Combinations are Essential for Global Photo-Security – Marc Cornell (Mar-key Consulting) (Continued on page 12)
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Sunscreens and Antioxidants – Perfect Together
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(Continued from page 11)
10:00 – 10:20 a.m. Antioxidants and the Skin – Dr. Roger L. McMullen (Ashland)
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colonialchem.com
Andrew Minczuk 201-259-7245 andrew.minczuk@colonialchem.com
10:20 – 10:40 a.m. Photo-stabilization of UVA/UVB Sunscreen Actives by Pongamol Natural Antioxidant – Dr. Laura Spaulding (Mane USA) 10:40 – 11:00 a.m. Antioxidant, UV Protection, and Antiphotoaging Properties of Anthocyanin-Pigmented Lipstick Formulations – Alexandra Sirosky (Sensient) 11:00 – 11:20 a.m. Made in the Shade: The Science and Challenges of Formulating Sunless Tanning Products – Kelly Dobos (Sun Chemical and President, SCC) 11:20 - 11:40 a.m. Beyond Sun Protection Factor: An Approach to Environmental Protection with Novel Mineral Coatings in a Vehicle Containing a Blend of Skincare Ingredients – Dr. Harry Sarkas (Solésence LLC) 11:40 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. UV, Sunscreens, and Singlet Oxygen – Dr. Paolo Giacomoni (Insight Analysis Consulting) 12:00 – 1:30 p.m. Lunch Break and Poster Session 1:30 – 1:40 p.m. Official Induction of Newly Elected NYSCC Board Members – Kelly Dobos (Sun Chemical) – President, SCC; Sonia Dawson (DSM) – Chair, NYSCC 1:40 - 2:10 p.m. Sun Protection in the Whole Spectral Range – Why and How? – Keynote Speaker: Dr. Martina Meinke (Dermatology at Charité Universitätsmedizin Berlin) 2:10 - 2:30 p.m.
Approval of New UV Filters – What Works, What Doesn’t – David Steinberg (Steinberg and Associates)
2:30 - 2:50 p.m. The Invisible Parasol – Shielding Hair and Scalp from UV Damage – Joseph Dallal (Ashland) 2:50 - 3:10 p.m. UV, Light and Skin Protection: What’s New Under the Sun – Eric Jourdan (Sensient) 3:10 - 4:00 p.m. Visit the Liberty Science Center exhibits on your own
Registration: SCC Members: $35 online/$70 at door Non-SCC Members: $75 online/$110 at door
Students: $10 online/$50 at door Emeritus: Free online/$40 at door
To register, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
Event Location: Liberty Science Center • 222 Jersey City Boulevard, Jersey City, NJ • Tel: (201) 200-1000
NYSCC Sponsorship Opportunities The NYSCC Sponsorship Committee is proud to invite interested parties to sponsor NYSCC educational events throughout the year. Sponsorship Committee: Yelena Zolotarsky (yelenazol@gmail.com) and Daphne Benderly (dbenderly@presperse.com) For more information, please visit: http://nyscc.org/sponsorship-opportunities/ 12
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Your one resource in North America...you don’t need to be anywhere else! Society of Cosmetic Chemists has you covered! As a sponsor at these events, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will ensure that this flagship expo remains the show of choice in North America for those searching for innovation and education, and ultimately making buying decisions. Visit www.n . ys scc.org/ /suppliersda supplier y for complete details on the May event.
Like, Connect & Tweet About Us!
FACEBOOK: NEW YORK SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC
TWITTER: @NYSCC
INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN
These connections are made possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee V O L U M E
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he NYSCC is hosting its annual Educational Charity after the National SCC Technical Symposium. The SCC’s theme this year, “From Evolution to Revolution: Cosmetic Market Dictators of Today,” inspired the idea of a white attire party. While the only requirement is to dress in white, we give you free reign over your choice of accessories and makeup. We would like our guests to channel different decades of makeup trends or challenge the status quo with avant-garde concepts and let the artistry of the cosmetics and individuality of your style speak for itself. Come join us for a timeless evening celebrating not only the evolution of makeup and personal care, but also the New York Chapter’s mission to further the education of cosmetic science. The event will feature several benefits going to various universities and research programs that promote the study of personal care science. This event will once again be held in New York City at Stage48 in Hell’s Kitchen. The venue features a grand ballroom with an extravagant mezzanine, a private lounge level with a performance space, and a beautiful rooftop terrace with a gorgeous view of the Manhattan skyline. This is an event not to be missed. Come join us for some charitable holiday fun this December! Attire: Smart casual and white Theme: Evolutionary/revolutionary/visionary For direct inquiries, please contact Maria Mo or Arayna Ramkelawan at awards@nyscc.org.
Registration • $85.00/ per person (member/non-member) • $125.00/ per person (ON-SITE pricing) Registration opens October 15, 2019.
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Moving Cosmetic Science Forward
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edicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the NYSCC strives to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists. To support this mission, the NYSCC hosts an Educational Charity at the annual Holiday Party, occurring every December during the SCC Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase. This philanthropic event awards a handful of educational and research organizations to demonstrate our solidarity in the pursuit of advancing personal care science as well as educating young professionals. Almost a year has passed since the last charity, so we followed up with our grant winners to see how the NYSCC had supported their goals. n Photo 1: Dr. Laurie B. Joseph—Assistant Research Professor at Rutgers University, accompanied by graduate and post-doctoral fellows—attended the 13th Annual NIH CounterACT Research Symposium: Countermeasures Against Chemical Threats at the New York Academy of Sciences. This conference provided graduate and post-doctoral fellow awardees the opportunity to participate in an event—which affords young researchers interested in topical and inhaled chemical threats and the development of countermeasures—the opportunity to foster new collaborations among fellow researchers in academia, government institutions, and the pharmaceutical and chemical industries. n Photo 2: Dr. Suzie Chen—Professor of Chemical Biology at Rutgers University—pictured with her team members at the Susan Lehman Cullman Laboratory Research. The NYSCC Educational Grant was applied towards funding the study of molecular mechanisms of melanoma development. n Photo 3: Dario Lewczyk, a student at Muhlenberg College, presented findings from his study titled “Thermogravimetric Analysis of Limonene” to fellow students at Muhlenburg’s summer research poster session. In this study, he used quantitative methods to evaluate the heat of vaporization of limonene fragrance. This student research project was conducted with the assistance of Dr. Justin Sparks, Assistant Professor of Chemistry, and Dr. Robert A. Fuller, parttime Lecturer, at Muhlenberg College. Fairleigh Dickinson University received a grant for a bio-hood to further develop the laboratory capabilities and the curriculum for the graduate Cosmetic Science program. PACE, the Program for Acceleration in Careers of Engineering, is a science and engineering awareness program for local high school students to help prepare them for technical careers. The program meets each morning during the school year and provides mathematics instruction, engineering orientation, college preparation, leadership development. The NYSCC Education Grant helped fund classroom supplies including books, college tour trips, and even the cost of a classroom throughout the semester. To learn more about how our contributions are manifesting scientific goals into reality, join us for the Education Night Event on December 17th at Stage48 in New York City! See page 14 of this issue for additional information. Maria Mo and Arayna Ramkelawan V O L U M E
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