September 2021 • Vol. 27 • Issue 7
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Cholesterol and Its Derivatives: Underutilized Ingredients for Skincare …by Frank Schmidtmann
holesterol is one of the most well-known molecules to the average person, but it is almost always referred to with negative connotations. When most people mention cholesterol, they are often discussing how to reduce their dietary intake or control blood cholesterol levels. Most people ultimately associate cholesterol with heart disease (atherosclerosis). However, what is not always understood is that cholesterol and its derivatives are essential for all animal life. Cholesterol is found in every cell and is necessary for proper membrane stability/fluidity, and acts as a precursor for other extremely important molecules, such as vitamin D3.1 Even less well known, cholesterol components account for over one third of the intercellular lipids in human skin.2, 3 The level of cholesterol both in cells and exterior to the cells is extremely important for maintaining healthy, properly functioning skin. By extension, the use of cholesterol and its derivatives in skincare products can offer many benefits, not just in the formulation aesthetics, but for the barrier function and natural biological processes as well.
Cholesterol Function
Cholesterol is one of the main components of cell membranes and is essential for their function. It is a small, semi-rigid aliphatic (lipid) molecule consisting of multiple fused rings and is classified as a sterol (modified steroid).4 The function of cholesterol in the membrane is to increase membrane fluidity and elasticity, and control small molecule diffusion.1 The level of cholesterol present in a bilipid layer can affect the packing of membrane components, creating less voids and ultimately helping to reduce both transmembrane and lateral diffusion while still maintaining fluidity.5-7 The result is membrane barrier function. In fact, without cholesterol, membranes would be rigid, brittle, and unable to create viable barriers for cellular functions. This function in cellular membranes is directly related to the utilization of cholesterol in the skin. The extracellular lipid matrix (material between skin cells) in the stratum corneum consists of approximately 35% cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate.2, 3 Cholesterol works to create fluid lamellar layers in the lipid matrix, very similar to the functions in the cell membrane. This has been visualized frequently with a “brick and mortar” model, but a deeper look into the “mortar” illustrates the structure consists of stacks of bilayers containing ceramides, fatty acids, and the cholesterols.8 Cholesterol is again responsible for matrix fluidity, proper packing of functional components, and controlling small molecule diffusion in the extracellular lipid matrix. This structure is the basis for true barrier function—the lipid matrix keeps water in and the external environment out. Fluctuation in the composition of the lipid matrix can compromise its function, which could have detrimental effects on skin health, ranging from excessive water loss to atopic dermatitis or even bacterial infections.9 Thus, cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate are truly essential components of skin. (continued on Page 14)
SKIN, HYGIENE, AND THE MICROBIOME • SEPTEMBER 14th ...see pages 10-12 for more information.
2021 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Susanna Fernandes chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Giorgino Macalino advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org
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Letter from the Chair
…Susanna Fernandes
nd just like that we are heading into fall! I don’t know about you, but the summer flew by for the NYSCC. I hope that you did have some relaxing days, as the Chapter has a lot planned for the rest of this year! I would like to congratulate the program chairs who delivered stellar education that resonated with our community on the important topic of “Beyond Proteins” and an intense “Antioxidant Symposium” in June as well as “Ethoxylated World of Personal Care” in July and “Skin Aromachology and Stress” in August. We also had an engaging and enlightening webinar, “NYSCC Proudly Embraces LGBTQ + Beauty,” to celebrate Pride Month. Congratulations to this year’s eight CEW Supplier’s Award Finalists who were announced on July 13th. We look forward to hearing who the winner is of this prestigious award on November 3rd. What a thrill it was to finally meet face-to-face with my colleagues, members, and guests at our sold-out Golf Outing. It was an exciting and exhilarating day to be out on the course at the gorgeous Crystal Springs Resorts in Hamburg. Speaking of face-to-face, we do have more in-person events planned in September and beyond, including a full day program on “Skin, Hygiene and Microbiome” at the scenic Chart House and our popular “Culinary Night” at Natirar. Our main event, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, will also be in-person on November 10th and 11th at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York. Early support of this event has been strong. Please read about some of the event highlights inside this issue of Cosmetiscope. Also, be assured we are closely monitoring any changes and updates to health and safety guidelines at the venue and will keep our community and stakeholders informed of any new guidance issued. The NYSCC will continue its online offerings and has “5 Key Goals for Sustainable Cosmetics in 2022” planned for September 21st and a “Suppliers’ Day Preview” featuring innovations from leading ingredients and formulation companies as well as experts from our “sister” chapters. The next preview day is scheduled for September 16th. Have you listened to the new NYSCC Podcast: The Science Behind the Art? Maria Sousa and her co-hosts, Xylia Ajose and Regina Klimchuk, have been doing a standout job of producing candid and informative biweekly interviews featuring a diverse range of topics from all sectors. Found on Spotify and Apple Podcasts, this new program is enjoying well-deserved engaged traffic. Finally, executive board nominations for NYSCC are now being accepted. Please consider joining our board, which can be a rewarding experience and will help us continue our mission to advance cosmetic science. I wish you all the best for an eventful fall!
NYSCC Podcast: The Science Behind the Art
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etting behind the scenes of the cosmetic industry one interview at a time. Listen to all levels of expertise and learn more about what cosmetic science is, how to make a career out of it, and tips and tricks from the best in the field. This is a space where all career types come together and show you their passion for all things beauty! Subscribe today on Spotify or Apple Podcasts. More info at: https://nyscc.org/nyscc-podcast/ 2
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Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com
EMBRACING EMBRA CING BEA BEAUTY UTY A Celebration of What We Create
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SUPPLIERS’ DAY MAKES IT HAPPEN IN NYC & VIRTUALLY AROUND THE WORLD S ep t em be r 2 0 2 1
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NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Embracing Beauty… Registration is Now Open!
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ttendee registration is now open for the in-person Suppliers’ Day, taking place November 10-11, 2021 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York, New York. Suppliers’ Day is the must-attend event for all those seeking innovation, education and business connections in the beauty and personal care industries. Cosmetic chemists, ingredient executives (including R&D professionals involved in ingredient/strategic sourcing), formulation experts, and professionals involved in marketing beauty and personal products are encouraged to register for this highly anticipated event at… https://www.xpressreg.net/register/NYSC1121/landing.asp?sc=&aban=&hkey=&iq=&vip=&smt=&tm= “We are excited to be able to come together for two days of insights, innovations, and networking to help propel the industry forward. The theme of the event is ‘Embracing Beauty,’ and will focus on overcoming challenges and formulating for inclusivity and diversity, while inspiring creativity and novel product development,” said Susanna Fernandes, Chair, NYSCC. The Suppliers’ Day exhibit floor will showcase more than 400 top suppliers and distributors displaying A V debuting in North America at new ingredients and formulations, services, and technologies, with some S | NEW Y Suppliers’ Day for the first time. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will also offer an educational program on the topics that are most pressing to those involved in formulations, sourcing, and marketing of beauty and personal care products including: • • • • • •
INDIE 360 Formulating for Inclusion Fragrance Panel Featuring Fragrance Creator’s Association All About Color with Peclers NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee Curated Session Core Suppliers’ Day Programs on Digital Age of Beauty, Discover Sustainability, World of Chemistry, and a Regulatory and Compliance Update
A virtual Suppliers’ Day will also kick-off on November 12th and feature more suppliers that weren’t able to attend the New York event along with unique learning programs. Continuing its mission to educate and involve the workforce of the future and students, Suppliers’ Day will also host the popular Future Chemists Workshop and Mentor/Mentee program. The NYSCC is also collaborating with National SCC and sister chapters across the country on an enhanced Career Day program. A special Industry Awards & Education Night will take place on November 10th, where the winner of the CEW Beauty Creators Award for Ingredients & Formulation (announced on November 3rd) will be recognized as well as student scholarships and other awards will be presented. To register to attend and for more information on NYSCC Suppliers’ Day visit: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/ Complete educational programming will be announced soon. 4
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NYSCC Focuses on the Future Formulation Expert!
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hile providing education and engagement for our members and the cosmetic chemistry community at large is paramount to our mission, equally important is engaging and empowering those who will be the future force of the industry. The 2021 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day event will be the epicenter for these next generation leaders with programs designed that allow them to envision their future. Here’s an overview of what’s planned:
Future Chemists Workshop (FCW)
A staple at Suppliers’ Day in New York City, the FCW provides an interactive learning and challenge based environment for university students and leaders of tomorrow. Our goal is to host and instruct approximately 50 university students from chapters across the U.S. in a safe and compliant real-life lab experience. This is scheduled to take place on Day 1 of Suppliers’ Day – November 10, 2021.
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Mentor-Mentee Icebreaker and Mixer
This event brings students from the FCW, as well as NYSCC student members, together with seasoned industry professionals to highlight and reinforce the professional development programs offered at Suppliers’ Day and throughout the year by the NYSCC. The committee spearheading this program will also introduce the sophisticated database which will match mentors and mentees while fostering interaction through fun, thoughtprovoking icebreakers. This is scheduled to take place over breakfast on Day 1 of Suppliers’ Day – November 10, 2021.
SCC Career Day
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will join forces with National SCC to complete this trifecta of offerings. Details are still being finalized, but topping off the activities for junior members of the SCC at large will be an opportunity to meet significant stakeholders of the cosmetics and personal care industry who will come together to share information on what the industry needs from its future workforce. During the event, information will also be presented by academia and corporate professionals providing attendees with vital information on how to take the next step in their cosmetic science career.
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Call for Papers
he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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Cholesterol and Its Derivatives: Underutilized Ingredients for Skincare
(continued from Page 1)
Figure 1: Molecular structure of cholesterol.
Cholesterol in Skincare
As previously noted, cholesterol is a small planar lipid with only one polar hydroxyl group. These characteristics give cholesterol some interesting properties for cosmetic formulations, in addition to its biological functions. It is oil soluble and has some emulsifying potential. In addition, formulations with cholesterol impart a rich and caring feel to the skin, resulting in its frequent use as a skin conditioner.10, 11 Yet, the most interesting property is the potential of cholesterol to assist in the formation of lamellar structures in an emulsion, which can in turn help with the incorporation of aliphatic (lipid like) materials into the skin lipid matrix. A simple experiment using petrolatum and cholesterol in a formulation has shown to increase the compatibility of the aliphatic materials with the lipid matrix.12 In this specific study, incorporating cholesterol into the formulation improved penetration of petrolatum by ~33%! This result follows the concept of “like dissolves like” from organic chemistry, inferring that cholesterol can help to create lamellar structures, similar to the layers in the skin lipid matrix, and therefore can create better interactions between skin and skincare products. Simplistically, this is how cholesterol formulations impart moisturization, by helping to replenish the skin barrier and prevent water loss. In more advanced examples, skincare formulations with a cholesterol-based lamellar structure infused with other active ingredients can potentially intercalate more readily into the lipid matrix and increase their impact. The use of cholesterol in skincare formulations is clearly effective with numerous benefits. Formulation enhancement through emulsification, skin conditioning, assisting in the efficacy of other lipid actives, and even replenishing skin essential lipid matrix components make cholesterol a truly “active” ingredient.
Cholesterol Derivatives
Cholesterol can be obtained in the diet or supplied by biosynthetic pathways in the body. However, the process does not always end here as cholesterol is further manipulated to form other molecules with significant biological functions such as steroids and hormones. While the previous discussion was focused specifically on cholesterol, there are many other derived products from this sterol with biological and skincare relevance. They can be natural, skin essential molecules derived from cholesterol, ranging from simple cholesterol sulfate to the multi-step derived cholecalciferol (vitamin D3). Cholesterol sulfate is one of the simplest examples of a modified cholesterol produced naturally in cells and has been shown to be essential for healthy skin. As previously noted, cholesterol sulfate is a major component of the extracellular lipid matrix (approximately 5% by weight).2, 3 Its presence is thought to be important in stabilizing the lipid lamellar layers through reducing the lattice density and creating mobility in the bilayers.13 Additionally, lower levels of cholesterol sulfate can destabilize the lipid matrix and result in cell desquamation.13, 14 Cholesterol sulfate has also been shown to affect fatty acid synthesis in fibroblasts and keratinocytes.15 Therefore, the use of cholesterol sulfate in formulations can have many potential benefits, such as creating lamellar phases which can intercalate into and stabilize the lipid matrix. Other cholesterol derivatives produced synthetically also exhibit interesting and valuable effects on the skin. Cholesteryl succinate is an example of a non-natural derivative with benefits in biological function and physical properties. Cholesteryl succinate has been shown to behave similarly to natural cholesterol in lipid layers, but exhibits better water solubility.16 This greatly enhances the potential for use in cosmetics, for both higher usage levels and ease of formulation. Its polar functionality also imparts another potential benefit, as it has been shown that cholesteryl succinate can help stabilize lipid layers with other 6
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added active ingredients. In one specific case, liposomes with incorporated cholesteryl succinate stabilized the formulation and assisted in the potential delivery of the triterpene saikosaponin.17 This derivative could be extremely beneficial to skincare formulations via stabilization of lipid structures similar to the extracellular lipid matrix and the potential delivery/stability of other active skincare ingredients through these functions.
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Figure 2: Molecular structure of (a) potassium cholesterol sulfate and (b) cholesteryl succinate.
Biosynthetic Precursors
As already discussed, cholesterol and its derivatives have important biological functions for supporting skin wellness. In addition, precursors to cholesterol can be biologically active and useful in several pathways, even vitamin production. These materials can also play extremely important roles in skin health. One very important biosynthetic precursor is 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC). This compound acts as a direct precursor to vitamin D3 and cholesterol. Under UV exposure, 7-DHC is photochemically converted to cholecalciferol, or vitamin D3. This can undergo further derivation by enzymatic hydroxylation in epidermal keratinocytes to form 1,25-hydroxy-vitamin D3 (calcitriol), which has been shown to be involved in differentiation and regulation of keratinocytes.18 Another biological action of calcitriol is the regulation of immune response through cathelicidin expression and the production of antimicrobial peptides in the skin, which indicate a beneficial role in skin defense.19 Another interesting potential of calcitriol in skin is the modulation of pigmentation. This effect has been illustrated by studies showing an increase in tyrosinase content and melanin formation in model systems with calcitriol.20 All the biological activities and pathways noted above stem from the cholesterol, 7-DHC, and vitamin D3 levels present in the skin. Supplementation and use of these materials in cosmetic formulations may have a wide variety of positive impacts, ranging from skin tone evenness to skin defense.
Sustainability and Sourcing
Despite the many benefits to using cholesterol and its derivatives in cosmetics, there can be some limitations for certain cosmetic/skincare producers due to the material source. Traditionally, cholesterol is isolated from animal sources, particularly animal neural tissue. This can present contamination issues.21 Recently, more progressive sources of animal derived cholesterol have been realized from wool grease. (continued on Page 8)
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MMP’s innovative actives and functional ingredients
Cholesterol and Its Derivatives: Underutilized Ingredients for Skincare
(continued from Page 7)
Age Defying Hydration
Sun Care
Skin Beauty Green Cosmetics
Figure 3: Molecular structure of (a) 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC) and (b) cholecalciferol. This new sourcing allows for the isolation of cholesterol from lanolin refinement, which is an animal byproduct and side-stream of wool production.22 This source is therefore efficient, renewable, and does not require sacrifice of the animal. However, the material is still animal derived, so alternative sources have been extensively reviewed. Naturally isolated plant sterols, or phytosterols, have proven a potential source for molecules similar in function to cholesterol. Unfortunately, the chemical structures in phytosterol products are not chemically identical to cholesterol, and therefore may be limited in application. Recently, semisynthetic cholesterol from plant sources has become available at commercial scale.21 This material is identical in chemical structure to animal cholesterol, and therefore can be an optimal alternative for cholesterol as well as a feedstock to produce all other derivatives mentioned here from a vegetal source.
Conclusion
Popularly, cholesterol has been unfairly viewed as a harmful substance for the body. In truth, cholesterol and its derivatives are essential for life and exceptionally important for healthy skin. These sterols can have many positive effects in skincare products, both in the formulation feel and in the effects on the skin itself. Additionally, it is possible to consider these materials as complementary to other skincare active ingredients by assisting in their incorporation and viability in formulations and in the intercalation of the active ingredients into the skin lipid matrix. Cholesterol and its derivatives are truly underutilized ingredients for skincare.
References
1. 10 Final report on the safety assessment of cholesterol. J Am Coll Toxicol 1986, 5 (5), 491-516. 2. Podewitz, M.; Wang, Y.; Gkeka, P.; von Grafenstein, S.; Liedl, K. R.; Cournia, Z., Phase diagram of a stratum corneum lipid mixture. J Phys Chem B 2018, 122 (46), 10505-10521. 3. Wertz, P. W., Chapter 5 – Changes in epidermal lipids and sebum secretion with aging. In Skin Aging Handbook, Dayan, N., Ed. William Andrew Publishing: Norwich, NY, 2009; pp 91-104. 4. U.S. National Library of Medicine; Cholesterol; https://meshb.nlm.nih.gov/record/ui?name=Cholesterol; 2016. 5. Falck, E.; Patra, M.; Karttunen, M.; Hyvönen, M. T.; Vattulainen, I., Impact of cholesterol on voids in phospholipid membranes. J Chem Phys 2004, 121 (24), 12676-12689. 6. Falck, E.; Patra, M.; Karttunen, M.; Hyvönen, M. T.; Vattulainen, I., Lessons of slicing membranes: interplay of packing, free area, and lateral diffusion in phospholipid/cholesterol bilayers. Biophys J 2004, 87 (2), 1076-1091. 7. Jedlovszky, P.; Mezei, M., Effect of cholesterol on the properties of phospholipid membranes. 2. Free energy profile of small molecules. J Phys Chem B 2003, 107 (22), 5322-5332. 8. van Smeden, J.; Bouwstra, J., Stratum corneum lipids: their role for the skin barrier function in healthy subjects and atopic dermatitis patients. In Skin Barrier Function, Curr. Prob. Dermatol., Agner, T., Ed. Karger: Basel, Switzerland, 2016; Vol. 49, pp 8-26. 9. Elias, P. M., Skin barrier function. Curr Allergy Asthma Rep 2008, 8 (4), 299-305. 8
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10. Balsam, M.; Sagarin, E., Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Wiley Interscience: New York, NY, 1972. 11. Reenberg, L.; Lester, D., Handbook of Cosmetic Materials. Wiley Interscience: New York, NY, 1954. 12. Jones, K. K.; Murray, D. E., Effects of cholesterol in petrolatum on loss of water by the skin and on cleansing. Arch Derm Syphilol 1937, 36 (1), 119-130. 13. Bouwstra, J. A.; Gooris, G. S.; Dubbelaar, F. E. R.; Ponec, M., Cholesterol sulfate and calcium affect stratum corneum lipid organization over a wide temperature range. J Lipid Res 1999, 40 (12), 2303-2312. 14. Sato, J.; Denda, M.; Nakanishi, J.; Nomura, J.; Koyama, J., Cholesterol sulfate inhibits proteases that are involved in desquamation of stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 1998, 111 (2), 189-93. 15. Williams, M.; Rutherford, S.; Feingold, K., Effects of cholesterol sulfate on lipid metabolism in cultured human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. J Lipid Res 1987, 28 (8), 955-967. 16. Kulig, W.; Tynkkynen, J.; Javanainen, M.; Manna, M.; Rog, T.; Vattulainen, I.; Jungwirth, P., How well does cholesteryl hemisuccinate mimic cholesterol in saturated phospholipid bilayers? J Mol Model 2014, 20 (2), 2121. 17. Ding, W. X.; Qi, X. R.; Li, P.; Maitani, Y.; Nagai, T., Cholesteryl hemisuccinate as a membrane stabilizer in dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine liposomes containing saikosaponin-d. Int J Pharm 2005, 300 (1-2), 38-47. 18. Arnold, F.; Mercier, M.; Luu, M., Metabolism of vitamin D in skin: benefits for skin care applications. Cosmet Toil 2013. 19. Mostafa, W. Z.; Hegazy, R. A., Vitamin D and the skin: focus on a complex relationship: a review. J Adv Res 2015, 6 (6), 793-804. 20. Hosoi, J.; Abe, E.; Suda, T.; Kuroki, T., Regulation of melanin synthesis of B16 mouse melanoma cells by 1 alpha, 25-dihydroxyvitamin D3 and retinoic acid. Cancer Res 1985, 45 (4), 1474. 21. Schrader, A.; San Filippo, J., Plant-based cholesterol aids in pro-aging moisturization. Personal Care North America 2018. 22. For more info, see http://thelanolin.com/.
2021 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org
September 14
Skin, Hygiene, and the Microbiome – NYSCC Programs – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ
September 16
Suppliers’ Day Preview – Virtual Event
September 21
5 Key Goals for Sustainable Cosmetics in 2022 – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event
September 29
NYSCC Culinary Event – Natirar, Gladstone, NJ
October 28 November 10-11
A Colorful Comeback – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY
November 10
INDIE 360, Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY
November 10
Industry Awards & Education Night (7:00 p.m. in HK Hall) – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY
November 12
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Virtual Day
November 17
New Green Emollients for Personal Care Applications – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event
November 18
Clean Beauty – At Home Live Series – Virtual Event
December 14-15
SCC Annual Scientific Meeting, New York, NY
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PROTAMEEN
Supplier of specialty materials!
Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM
NYSCC Programs
Skin, Hygiene, and the Microbiome September 14, 2021 • 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. Chart House, Weehawken, NJ
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he microbiome and its impact on skin and hygiene are the focus of this program as formulating personal care products that include living, tailor-made solutions continue to dominate the landscape. Discussions will include different perspectives on microbiome health and factors for innovation, including benefit evaluation and delivery. Learn how these innovations are driving microbiome insights for novel consumer benefits.
Moderators:
Sarah de Szalay – Femtec Aysel Calkap – DSM Nutritional Products, LLC
Speakers:
• Dr. Jason Harcup – Global Vice President for Skin Care Research & Development, Unilever • Dr. Rainer Simmering – Senior Scientist, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA • Peter Larsen – M.D./Ph.D. candidate, University of Connecticut • Dr. Riccardo Sfriso – Lead Scientist, Skin Microbiome Scientific Affairs, Skin Care, DSM Nutritional Products, LLC 10
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Speaker Biographies
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Jason Harcup, Ph.D. Global Vice President for Skin Care Research & Development, Unilever r. Jason Harcup is Global Vice President for Skin Care Research & Development at Unilever leading end-to-end R&D delivery from innovation to market in 89 countries. He is also Global Vice President for the Euro Prestige Division. In addition, he leads Unilever’s North America R&D Campus. Overall, he leads several hundred Ph.D. scientists globally across a dozen worldwide laboratories, delivering more than a billion euros of marketed innovations. He is a Cambridge University Natural Scientist, being elected a Fellow of the Royal Society of Biology in 2016, and a Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry in 2015. He more broadly serves the industry as Judge for the Royal Society of Chemistry Emerging Technologies Initiative, co-convenor of the Asian Dermatological Forum (having grown and headed up a $60m R&D facility in Shanghai), faculty for Health and Beauty America, and beauty disruptor with the CEW network. He frequently contributes presentations and articles.
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Rainer Simmering, Ph.D. Senior Scientist, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA r. Rainer Simmering is a Senior Scientist in the Corporate Microbiology group of Henkel AG & Co. KGaA in Düsseldorf. After finishing his study of biology at WWU in Muenster, he completed a Ph.D. at the German Institute of Human Nutrition in Potsdam, where he also stayed for another year as a post-doctoral fellow. In October 2000, he started at the Nestlé Research Center in Lausanne, where he was working on the detection and function of the intestinal microbiota. In 2003 he came to Henkel, where he worked in the group of Hygiene Research on different research projects, such as the elucidation of the skin microbiota with molecular means. Since 2009, Dr. Simmering acts as an internal consultant for the global Beauty Care business regarding all microbiological questions.
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Peter Larson – M.D./Ph.D. Candidate University of Connecticut eter Larson is an M.D./Ph.D. Candidate at the University of Connecticut (UCONN). He recently completed his doctoral research in Julia Oh’s group at the Jackson Laboratory for Genomic Medicine. His background is in synthetic biology, which he is currently applying to leverage the human skin microbiome to promote health, prevent infections, and treat diseases. In the Oh lab, he engineered Staphylococcus epidermidis, a ubiquitous skin commensal, to detect and kill pathogens, as well as secrete therapeutics. He has also pioneered exploring the use of human skin explants and stem cell derived skin “organoids” to model human skin microbiome interactions in the laboratory. Finally, he has implemented a clinical metagenome study investigating the relationship between aging, health, and the microbiome. These data inform how we can leverage the microbiome to combat chronic illnesses, prevent infections commonly acquired by older adults in healthcare settings, and promote healthy aging.
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Riccardo Sfriso, Ph.D. Lead Scientist, Skin Microbiome Scientific Affairs, Skin Care, DSM Nutritional Products, LLC iccardo Sfriso joined DSM in April 2019. As a member of the Skin Care Science and Promotion team, Riccardo leads all skin microbiome related activities in R&D and is a study director in charge of planning and management of clinical efficacy studies. Sfriso holds a Ph.D. in Biomedical Sciences from the University of Bern in Switzerland and an M.Sc. Degree in Chemistry and Pharmaceutical Technology from the University of Padova in Italy. He has published in high-impact scientific journals and has been invited at several congresses and expert meetings as a (continued on Page 12) keynote speaker representing DSM’s scientific expertise.
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BEAUTY
begins here. Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care. GO
Skin, Hygiene, and the Microbiome
(continued from Page 11)
Registration Surface Treated Pigments
Silicone Hybrid Fluids
For more information email TechPCS@gelest.com TechPCS@gelest.com
n Pre-reg – LIVE/IN-PERSON at the Chart House: • Members – $50 • Non-members – $85 • Student – $10 • Emeritus – free n On-site – LIVE/IN-PERSON at the Chart House: • Members – $75 • Non-members – $105 • Student – $50 • Emeritus – $10 n LIVE STREAMING – NOT attending in-person: An UBER EATS gift card will be e-mailed to you for your dining enjoyment! You must be registered by September 13th to ensure receiving this in advance. • Members – $50 • Non-members – $85 • Student – $10 • Emeritus – free
NYSCC Culinary Event
To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
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Natirar • Peapack, NJ September 29, 2021 • 4:30 – 8:00 p.m.
ou are invited to join us at the NYSCC Culinary Event. Enjoy delicious creations from professional chefs while connecting with NYSCC members! Vegetarian options are available. Bus shuttle will be provided between the venue and Garden State Plaza.
Organizers:
Johanna Gigliotti (johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com) Amy Marshall (Amy.Marshall@altana.com) To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). 12
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NYSCC At Home Live Series
5 Key Goals for Sustainable Cosmetics in 2022 By Pascal Yvon – Croda, Inc.
September 21, 2021 • 11:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.
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s a result of continuously growing environmental awareness and even greater focus on their health and wellness, today’s consumers are spending more time researching the products and brands that align with their holistic lifestyle, taking care not only of their skin but also the planet. They expect quality from their natural cosmetic products with a main attribute gaining more critical consideration in recent years, i.e., sustainability. With forceful market pressure and the irreversible shift towards naturality with sustainability, cosmetic companies must effectively commit to specific goals and values if they want to strive for growth in a very competitive and fast-paced market. During this presentation, key sustainability goals for the cosmetic industry during 2022 will be highlighted.
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Speaker Biography
n Pascal Yvon, PharmD – Head of Botanicals, Personal Care, Croda Inc. ascal Yvon has over 25 years of global experience in the life sciences industries. He has worked for global corporations as well as start-ups in sales, marketing, and general management positions. He has authored many articles in cosmetic trade journals and regularly speaks at leading industry events and conferences. Dr. Yvon holds a doctorate in pharmacy from the Pharmacy University, Paris, and an Executive MBA from Rutgers University, NJ. He is a member of the New York chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
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NYSCC At Home Live Series
A Colorful Comeback
By Betty Aucar – Sun Chemical and Erin Turner – Sun Chemical
October 28, 2021 • 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.
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ello Color, we missed you! The future of beauty is bright, bold, and sparkly as we enter a new era filled with vibrant creativity. The seasons ahead use color and dazzling shimmer to uplift the global mood. Join Colors & Effects® as we unlock tips and tricks to creating formulas and shades for the latest beauty movements. Together, we highlight inclusive radiance, vegan reds, and eco-conscious wow effects. Color outside the lines with a rainbow of color cosmetics that will inspire you to create and innovate!
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Speaker Biographies
n Betty Aucar – Sun Chemical etty Aucar has more than 30 years of colorant and effect pigment expertise in the cosmetic industry. Starting with the Mearl Corporation as a microbiologist in the 1980s, Betty has held many technical and lab leader roles as the Mearl Corporation evolved into Engelhard in 1996, and then BASF in 2006. Within the BASF Colors & Effects division (recently bought by Sun Chemical), Betty is the technical expert for the Americas, providing formulation support for customers in both North and South America. She is fluent in Spanish and is passionate about helping and sharing her knowledge with customers and the beauty industry.
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n Erin Turner – Sun Chemical
rin Turner has worked for BASF for 13 years across various divisions and commercial roles. Drawn to the beauty industry, she joined the BASF Colors & Effects business (recently bought by Sun Chemical) in 2017 as the North American marketing manager for cosmetics. In 2019, she was delegated to Germany as the European marketing manager for cosmetics. Today, she is the business development manager and sales lead for the U.S. and Canada. Erin is passionate about all things marketing and enjoys connecting with customers and bringing new ideas to life. She has a concentration in Marketing from North Carolina State University and an MBA from the University of Texas at Austin. To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). 14
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NYSCC At Home Live Series
Omya Consumer Goods omyakinetik.com
Worldwide experts of specialty personal care ingredients.
New Green Emollients for Personal Care Applications
Leading global producer of functional minerals. 562-961-3333 PersonalCareUS@omya.com
By Alexandra Pavanelli – Oxiteno
November 17, 2021 • 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.
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he market for cosmetics and personal care products based on natural derived ingredients is growing very fast since consumers are increasingly aware about the role and responsibility of each individual in promoting sustainability and environmental protection. In addition, although not always true, consumers associate “natural” and “green” ingredients with mildness, wellbeing, and health. Therefore, the development of ingredients derived from renewable raw materials as an alternative to those of petrochemical origin is an important goal for the ingredients’ industry to be competitive in this new market scenario.
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Speaker Biography
n Alexandra Pavanelli – Oxiteno lexandra Pavanelli is a Specialist Researcher at Oxiteno with more than 20 years of experience in research, development, and application of surfactants and specialty chemicals, and technical support to customers in the food, cosmetics, and detergent industries. With a Bachelor’s Degree in Food Engineering, and specializations in Cosmetics Development and Marketing, she currently integrates Oxiteno’s Global Innovation Team for the Home and Personal Care market segments. To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
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