Cosmetiscope July 2018

SUMMER 2018 • Vol. 24 No. 6

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

Effect of Fullerenes on Anti-aging …by Hisae Aoshima

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ullerene has a unique hollow spheroid structure that resembles a soccer ball. Moreover, it has high electron affinity and is a poor conductor of electricity and heat. In addition to the temperature durability, fullerene is extremely stable to changes in pH and light.

In addition, fullerene has excellent antioxidant properties. Based on these characteristics, fullerene may be considered a stable and efficacious antioxidant that could be put to practical use as a cosmetic ingredient. However, fullerene is not soluble in polar solvents such as water and ethanol. Thus, the practical application of fullerene in the field of life sciences is complex. Many investigations have been conducted at Vitamin C60 BioResearch Corporation, which have led to improved technologies and development of a commercial product containing water-dispersible fullerene as the cosmetic ingredient, called Radical Sponge™. The solubility of fullerene is also low in hydrocarbons such as squalane. However, the development of a technology that disperses fullerene in squalane at high concentrations led to the development of a commercial product, LipoFullerene™. Furthermore, in 2015, a liposome precursor containing fullerene within natural materials (hydrogenated lecithin and soybean sterol) was marketed under the name Moist Fullerene™.

In the same year, we launched the first powder-type fullerene material under the name Veil Fullerene™. In Veil Fullerene™, fullerene is inserted into silica pores and is therefore suitable as a cosmetic ingredient in makeup items such as foundation, blemish balm, and color control creams. In 2017, two more products were brought to the market: Sun Guard Fullerene™ for the purpose of formulating sun care products; and Hair Shiny Fullerene™, for hair repair and protection from UV. When the skin is exposed to UV radiation, reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced, which cause wrinkles, age spots, and irritation. The addition of antioxidant ingredients to cosmetic products provides effective protection to the skin from oxidative stress. ROS are closely involved in inflammatory reactions. Through a direct (Continued on page 4)

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0 1 8 N Y S C C G O L F O U T I N G Monday, July 23rd • Crystal Springs Resort

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2018 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Cathy Piterski chair@nyscc.org

CHAIR-ELECT Sonia Dawson chair-elect@nyscc.org

TREASURER Michael Smith Treasurer@nyscc.org

TREASURER-ELECT Stephen Carter treasurer-elect@nyscc.org

SECRETARY Roumelia Alina secretary@nyscc.org

ADVISOR Marie Thadal advisor@nyscc.org

HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org

MEMBERSHIP Mohamed Abdulla mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com

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Letter from the Chair

…Cathy Piterski

Summer is in full swing and so are we!

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icking off the “unofficial” start to summer was the successful Suppliers’ Day, where attendance grew 10% over 2017 with a total of 9,464 attendees. The majority of registered attendees were cosmetic chemists, R&D, and product development professionals with 20% of them from high level brands and influencers. We have a dedicated following with nearly 55% of attendees attending the show annually and 81% of exhibitors already re-signed for 2019—blowing past expected industry standards. A whopping 35% of attendees indicated they were “new” to Suppliers’ Day—a testament to the alliances forged with other industry associations and organizations which allowed us to spread the word. Buying power is equally of paramount importance to our exhibitors—and we didn’t fall short. Roughly 50% of attendees indicated they had 1 million to spend on the products, solutions, and ingredients on display at the show.

The momentum continued as the Microbiome Symposium at L’Oréal on June 5th was completely sold out! This event allowed attendees to learn about the microbiome, trends in this field, and innovations to address consumers’ requests and needs. The symposium also offered valuable insights on the increasing advantages of microbiome technology in the cosmetic and hygiene fields. An enormous thank you goes to L’Oréal for hosting and sponsoring this successful event as it provided real insight to the beneficial and quickly growing opportunities the microbiome field offers!

The summer events are not over yet though! On July 23rd the NYSCC will be hosting a golf outing at Crystal Springs Resort in Hamburg, NJ, allowing industry colleagues a chance to network and create opportunities within the cosmetic sector. Don’t wait to register for this great networking event!

I hope that summer treats all of us nicely after such a long, cold winter! Make sure to lather up on sunscreen and enjoy the beach days before fall brings us back with three exciting events that you need to check out: Extending Your Invisible Umbrella, Active Ingredients, and Skin Barrier Disruption. For more information, check out the NYSCC website at: http://nyscc.org/event-directory/. We also have the very popular NYSCC Culinary Event planned for September 20th at the Midtown Loft and Terrace in New York City. Don’t miss this exceptional event.

Have a great summer!

Upcoming 2018 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org July 23 NYSCC Golf Outing – Crystal Springs Golf Course, Hamburg, NJ

Steve Herman steveh50@optonline.net

September 12 Sunscreen Symposium: Extending Your Invisible Umbrella – Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel, Iselin, NJ

COMMUNICATIONS

September 20 Culinary Event – Midtown Loft & Terrace, New York, NY

Theresa Phamduy webmaster@nyscc.org

SPECIAL EVENTS

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October 23 Sustainable Cosmetic Science Seminar – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ November 7 Inflammatory Skin Diseases and Barrier Function Seminar – Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ

Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com 2

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

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2018 NYSCC Golf Outing Monday, July 23rd Registration: 11:00 am – 1:00 pm in the Emerald Ballroom Full Shot Gun: 1:00 pm – 5:30 pm at the Crystal Springs Golf Club Full Shot Gun: 1:00 pm – 5:30 pm at the Wild Turkey Golf Course Dinner/Prizes: 6:00 pm – 10:00 pm in the Emerald Ballroom $190/person (SCC members) or $200/person (non-members): includes box lunch, 18 hole scramble golf, dinner, 1 ½ hour cocktail hour and prizes Beginner Golf Clinic: $120/person: includes box lunch, clinic, dinner, 1 ½ hour cocktail hour and prizes Dinner: $50/person

Registration via www.nyscc.org for sponsorship opportunities please contact jfrancisco@JEEN.com

Crystal Springs 1 Wild Turkey Way Hamburg, NJ 07419

Like, Connect & Tweet About Us!

FACEBOOK: NEW YORK LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC TWITTER: @NYSCC INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS These connections are possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee

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Effect of Fullerenes on Anti-aging

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effect on the activation of the inflammatory signal transcription factor, NF-κB, ROS strongly increase the expression of TNF-α as well as other cytokines and inflammatory markers, such as the enzyme inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS). Based on this, it has been suggested that by using fullerene as an antioxidant to scavenge ROS, inflammatory signals can be blocked (Figure 1).

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Figure 1: Induction of cytokines and chemokines by ROS-mediated NF-κB activation.

Brightening Effect of Fullerene The ability of Radical Sponge™ to inhibit UVA-induced melanin production was tested in human melanoma cells (HMV-II). Radical Sponge™ significantly reduced UVA-induced melanin production in a dose-dependent manner and suppressed the formation of dendrites, which transport melanin. Melanin expression is induced

by ROS generated from UV irradiation. It is thought that fullerenes scavenge ROS as discussed above, thereby suppressing melanin production.

To prove the clinical efficacy of Radical Sponge™, a clinical trial was executed by the Trust Organization (DRC Co., Ltd). The subjects applied 0.4 mL of 1% Radical Sponge™ serum to their entire face twice per day.

At 0, 4, and 8 weeks after the treatment was initiated, the brightening of the skin of the cheek was evaluated by using a colorimeter (Konika Minolta, Japan) through the measurement of pigment color and skin redness as the melanin and hemoglobin indices, respectively. After 4 weeks of application, the melanin index was significantly lower than before treatment; further decreases were seen for up to 8 weeks of treatment. The hemoglobin index was also significantly reduced after 8 weeks. This result suggested that Radical Sponge™ suppressed skin redness caused by inflammation (Figure 2). Owing to previous reports that antioxidant substances were able to effectively control inflammatory reactions, it was proposed that fullerene could exert an anti-inflammatory effect.

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Figure 2: Brightening effect of Radical Sponge™.

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Following this result, another clinical trial evaluating sunburn (UVA + UVB) induced in the skin of the upper inner arm was also completed. After 8 weeks of application, the melanin index of the area treated with 1% Radical Sponge™ cream was significantly lower than that of the control cream site as shown in Figure 3.

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These data suggest that Radical Sponge™ has a brightening effect because of its ability to scavenge UVinduced ROS. No adverse events were noted during each examination period.

™ Figure 3: Brightening effect of Radical Sponge™.

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Reduction of Fine Wrinkles by the Application of Fullerene: Clinical Trials We also performed an 8-week clinical trial of LipoFullerene™ on 23 subjects (mean age 39.2 ± 4.0 years) with grade 2–3 wrinkles. The results of twodimensional image analysis of face replicas of wrinkles around the eyes revealed that after 8 weeks the wrinkle area at the application site of the treatment (1% LipoFullerene™-blended cream) was significantly smaller than that of the area where the placebo cream was applied (Figure 4).1 Some subjects also commented that, in addition to the reduction in wrinkles, they also felt a reduction in skin dryness.

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Figure 4: Variation in wrinkle area (average values obtained from 23 individuals).

Fullerene has powerful antioxidant properties. However, it has been difficult to use this substance in cosmetics because it is insoluble in water. With the development of a water-dispersible, polymer-wrapped complex (Radical Sponge™), the water dispersibility and stability of fullerenes in cosmetic formulations increases. The antioxidant, melanogenesis inhibitory, and brightening effects of Radical Sponge™ were evaluated through chemical methods, in vitro experiments, and clinical tests, respectively. The data suggest that the brightening effect of Radical Sponge™ results from its ability to scavenge UV-induced ROS. Fullerene is also insoluble in hydrocarbons. LipoFullerene™ is a lipid soluble antioxidant that can be dispersed in squalane. In this paper, we demonstrate the effect of LipoFullerene™ on the reduction of fine wrinkles around the eyes. Compelling clinical evidence has demonstrated the beneficial effect of fullerene on the reduction of fine wrinkles. Fullerene in LipoFullerene™ is a stable antioxidant and it is thought to exert its effect on fine wrinkles through the scavenging of UV-induced ROS. Typical skin aging phenomena include age spots and wrinkles. Fullerene was found to be effective against both. Therefore, fullerene appears to be an effective anti-aging ingredient. Currently, over 2,000 cosmetic items worldwide contain fullerene, and these products have attested the beneficial effects and safety of fullerene. The number of fullerene cosmetics is expected to increase in the future.

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Effect of Fullerenes on Anti-aging

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References sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs

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1. S. Kato, H. Taira, H. Aoshima, Y. Saitoh, N. Miwa, Clinical evaluation of fullerene-C60 dissolved in squalane for anti-wrinkle cosmetics, J. Nanosci. Nanotechnol., 10, 6769–6774 (2010). _____________________________________________

About the Author

Dr. Hisae Aoshima graduated as a Molecular Biologist with a Master’s degree from Departmant of Biotechnology, Nagaoka Technical University. After working at a private contract research company as a researcher, she joined Vitamin C60 BioResearch Corp as a manager. She received her Ph.D. in 2010 in the field of fullerene research. She is responsible for R&D project management and has over 10 years of experience in fullerene related research and cosmetic applications.

NYSCC Awards Night – Art And Science

D S p e c i a l t y Es t e r s

PROTAMERS

“Art & Science” was highlighted by innovators with distinctive awards programs!

uring Beauty Week NYC, anchored by Suppliers’ Day, the NYSCC held its third annual Awards Night at the distinctive Stage 48 in Hell’s Kitchen—with a masquerade theme to heighten the fun! This year’s theme for awards, The Art and Science of Formulation, challenged suppliers and finished good manufactures/brands to submit their formulations for review based on their creativity and substance. The finalists for this event were: Dupont, Alban Muller, Sensient, and Biomod—all hoping for the chance to be recognized at the NYSCC’s biggest event of the year, with the award going to Biomod!

CEW’s Inside Beauty Awards was the finale for Beauty Week, with a formulations segment added this year for the first time. A session featuring select finalists for this award was held during Suppliers’ Day and included: BASF Corp., Biomod, Clariant, and Stepan.

Here they discussed what is currently defining innovations in formulation.

This panel also included the winner of the award, Geltor, Inc. The NYSCC was honored to have a member serve as a judge of this category. Mohamed Omer, member of NYSCC Scientific Advisory Board, provided insight and expertise in reviewing the many submissions received.

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Future Chemists Workshop Is Truly a Launching Pad for the NextGen!

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t the 2018 Suppliers’ Day, the Future Chemists Workshop allowed students to learn in a real-world environment with a better understanding of key industry trends, particularly in the field of skin care emulsions and rheology. This workshop provided engaging, expert instruction from Yelena Zolotarsky, who holds a Master’s degree in both Organic Chemistry and Cosmetics, and also Dr. Elizabeth Kaufman, a highly recognized figure in the field.

Students participating in this workshop immediately saw the benefits, as one participant sponsored by the Midwest SCC chapter, Margaret Gorz, commented in a note to NYSCC Chair, Cathy Piterski: “Thank you for giving me the opportunity to not only expand my knowledge, but to also make connections within the field. It was a trip that I will not forget.

Sometime in the future, I hope to join the Society of Cosmetic Chemist's Board myself and also become a mentor for a younger member.”

This sentiment has been expressed from many students, including last year’s Future Chemists Workshop participant, Arayna Ramkelawan: “At a university career fair, I shared my experience about the NYSCC Future Chemists Workshop and was soon hired as a co-op in the Personal Care R&D Applications – Beauty Effects department at Croda. Now, I am a graduate trainee at Croda and will be starting my rotational program taking a more scientific approach to product development and creating data for Croda chemicals. Thanks to the NYSCC Future Chemists Workshop, I gained the opportunity to enter the industry I love and jump start my career in personal care on a global level.”

Cathy Piterski, NYSCC Chair concurs: “This experience has allowed students to create a network of their own prior to graduation. NYSCC will be creating an extension of this program and is currently investigating a mentor/internship initiative that will engage students, provide invaluable support and create new memberships.”

To be kept updated on the soon-to-be announced “mentoring program,” please contact Mohamed Abdullah – membership@nyscc.org. For the Future Chemists Workshop, contact suppliersday@nyscc.org.

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SPECIALTY SILICONES

Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.

n Sr. Scientist – Clinical Innovation – Advanced Research L’Oréal USA • Clark, NJ

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n R&D Laboratory Technician ChemAid Laboratories, Inc.• Saddle Brook, NJ n Senior Formulation Chemist Precious Cosmetics • Lodi, NJ n Freelance Cosmetic Chemist Percent Skincare

n Regulatory Affairs Product Steward Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc. • Warren, NJ n Application Chemist Applechem, Inc. • Parsippany, NJ

n Senior Scientist – Skin and Clinical Research Mary Kay • Addison, TX n Technical Marketing Leader Gattefossé • Paramus, NJ

n Product Applications Manager Colonial Chemical • South Pittsburg, TN

n Senior R&D Formulation Chemist Dermazone Solutions • St. Petersburg, FL

Make note of it…

Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu 8

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Harry’s Cosmetology, 9th Edition Editor-In-Chief: Meyer R. Rosen Chemical Publishing Publication date: September 2015 For more information, go to the Chemical Publishing website. https://www.chemical-publishing.com/category_s/44.htm

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