Cosmetiscope June 2023

The Science of Acne Care

…Roger L. McMullen

Acne vulgaris is a common cutaneous multifactorial disord h ffli large portion of society at some point in their life, espec the adolescence years as well as during pregnan menopause. It affects approximately 85% of individuals aged 1 years and 50% of individuals aged 20-29 years 1 It develops on face or trunk of the body and can cause permanent scarring, whic can be psychologically devastating to the individual

Development of Acne

Acne is caused when the pilosebaceous unit becomes obstructed with sebum and differentiated keratinocytes, due to hyperkeratinization and excessive oil production, resulting in the for mation of comedones (obstruction of the pores that appear as small bumps on the surface of the skin). Comedones can be open (black heads) or closed (white heads), which are both non-inflammatory for ms of acne On the other hand, if the comedones become infected by bacteria, they can develop inflammatory lesions such as papules, pustules, nodules, and cyst

Hypercolonization of the pilosebaceous duct by the bacteri Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) has traditio been considered as mostly responsible for the ensuing b infection Excessive sebaceous gland activity has been associat onset of puberty and is believed to be the result of the activity o g A comprehensive review of the literature demonstrated that serum levels of testosterone, progesterone, glucocorticoids, insulin, and insulin-like growth factors are elevated in patients with acne while serum estrogen levels are low.2

Topical Treatment of Acne

Mild to moderate acne can be treated with topical ingredients such as retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, and other chemistries (e g , azelaic acid, salicylic acid, sulfur-containing compounds, etc )

Retinoids are known for their ability to increase proliferation of keratinocytes, decrease enzyme activity in lipogenesis, and impede sebocyte reproductive activity all factors important for acne-effected skin 3 Retinoids approved by the Food and Drug Adminstration (FDA) in the United States for the treatment of acne are adapalene, tazarotene, tretinonin, and trifarotene

Benzoyl peroxide functions as a reactive oxygen species (ROS), which for ms free radicals that destroy the bacterial cell wall of Cutibacterium acnes Unlike antibiotics, benzoyl peroxide provides the advantage that bacteria do not develop resistance to it

Treatment of skin with topical antibiotics is another strategy to combat the manifestations of acne vulgaris. There are three topically approved antiobiotics for acne treatment in the United States, which consist of clindamycin, erythromycin, and minocycline

Azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and sulfur-containing compounds are also important topical modalities to treat acne. Azelaic acid is a diacid that is found in wheat, barley, and rye It is known for its ability to ameliorate acne through its keratolytic and antimicrobial activity

It also is a tyrosinase inhibitor and therefore reduces melanin synthesis Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxyacid, which has comedolytic (inhibits the for mation of comedones) and desmolytic properties, which promotes the exfoliation of stratum (continued on Page 7)

2023 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE

Chair Stacey House chair@nyscc org

Chair-Elect

Amber Evans chair-elect@nyscc.org

Treasurer

Alex Blakeman treasurer@nyscc.org

Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org

Advisor Giorgio Dell’Acqua advisor@nyscc org

Program

Cathy Piterski program@nyscc org

At Home Live Series

Susanna Fer ndandes Susanna Fer nandes@tri-k com

By-Laws

Amy Marshall amy marshall@altana com

Communications

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com

Cosmetiscope Editor

Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu edu

Cosmetiscope Advertising

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland com

Social Media

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

Letter from the Chair …Stacey House

Well, I am officially halfway through my ter m as Chair of the NYSCC W ithout a doubt, time flies when you are enjoying what you do and that was quite evident at Suppliers’ Day in May!

The 44th Annual Suppliers’ Day Week of Beauty was the biggest Suppliers’ Day in our long history Not only did we have the largest show floor, with 550+ exhibitors from all over the world, but we also had a record number of attendees with over 10,000 registered participants, and almost 500 conference delegates The event featured over 100 hours of educational programming with an expanded number of industry partnerships, while the Future Chemists Workshop attracted a record number of participating students!

We created an incredible immersive experience of “Reimagining Renewal and Wellness,” that was amplified at our Annual Awards Night Program featuring the eight finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Awards for ingredients and for mulations

Another first for Suppliers’ Day was engagement with SCI COMM Influencers to spread our message and engage the next generation of cosmetic chemists! We hosted an Influencers Chemist Panel on Truth in Beauty with IBA. We also had an Influencers Lounge on the show floor where attendees and exhibitors could meet with some leading voices in the social media space who are recognized experts on the science of beauty.

Our programming was highlighted by a Fireside Chat with Mohamed Kanji, Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, North America at L’Oréal, that featured a conversation to a standing-room only audience on how L’Oréal achieves their green science and sustainability goals

Again, we thank all our exhibitors (who are truly business partners of the event) as well as our members, colleagues, and the tireless volunteers that brought so many programs to life!

The NYSCC continued its outreach after Suppliers’ Day with our first partnership with Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) as official sponsors of the CEO Beauty Summit in New York More than 300 top level executives in Beauty and Personal Care attended, and there is no doubt that ingredients and science were leading the discussion of innovative product development Our plan is to use this partnership to ensure we continue to reach the C-level decisionmakers and engage them at Suppliers’ Day as well as at our programming functions year-round

We are not resting There are still six months to go! What should be next on your calendar? The NYSCC Acne Care Symposium will take place at Fairleigh Dickinson Campus (FDU) Florham campus in Madison, New Jersey on Wednesday, June 14th This full-day program will feature inter national experts on acne care as well as a technology showcase for attendees to lear n and discuss the latest research in the field

Don’t miss our fun outdoor social events this summer including the NYSCC Annual Golf Outing on July 24th at Crystal Springs Resort in Hamburg, New Jersey and the NYSCC Fishing Trip on August 12th departing from Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey.

2023 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Records Its Biggest Ingredients and Formulation Event

10,362 Attendees and 546 Global Exhibitors from 73 Countries Highlighted the Beauty and Personal Care Event that Reimagined Renewal and Wellness

The 44th Annual Suppliers’ Day broke attendance records on May 2-3, 2023, at the Jacob K Javits Convention Center in New York The event attracted 10,362 registrants (representing 73 countries) coming from R&D and Product Development at large brand manufacturers and emerging independents in beauty and personal care Suppliers’ Day 2023 enjoyed its best professional attendance to date

“Attendees and exhibitors were energized by the look, feel, and size of the show and being back t o g e t h e r t o e x p l o re , d i s c o v e r, a n d d i s c u s s t h e science behind ingredients and formulations,” said Stacey House, Chair, NYSCC “Every inch of the show floor embraced our theme of Reimagining Renewal and Wellness and helped spark attendee’s product development plans ”

In addition to an exhibit floor that featured 546 exhibiting companies including 174 new exhibitors, Suppliers’ Day also boasted 100+ hours of education as well as its largest participation in conference delegates with almost 500 registrants Well attended programs covered microbiome, hair care and wellness, biotechnologies, fragrance, moder nizing cosmetic regulations, natural ingredients, Chinese beauty market, innovations from exhibitors, hot topics, and Sci-Comm Influencers Panel Suppliers’ Day core programs, “Digital Age of Beauty,” “Discover Sustainability,”

“World of Chemistry,” and “INDIE 360°” provided fresh content and actionable insight that continues to resonate with attendees.

The Fireside Chat with Mohamed Kanji, Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, North America at L’Oréal took place on the second day of the event and was moderated by Lan Vu, Founder/CEO of BeautyStreams Mohamed discussed how L’Oréal achieves their green science and sustainability goals to a standing room only crowd

The Future Chemists Workshop also broke records this year with more than 100 students from 22 colleges and universities across the county participating in a mini-challenge for the best upcycled leavein hair and scalp spray. The NYSCC Mentorship Mixer and Career Development Program connected members with mentees looking to enhance their professional development and career in cosmetic chemistry

The NYSCC Awards Night event took place on Tuesday, May 2nd at Second Floor NYC and announced the eight finalists of the 2023 CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Awards for Ingredients and Formulation. The finalists were: Activen for XEP-716 MiniProtein; BASF for ProBiolift; Cambrium for NovaColl; Croda Inc. for Mel[o]stem; Givaudan Active Beauty for Gravityl; Givaudan Active Beauty for PrimalHyal; Hydra[+], P2 Science, Inc for CitroSperse; and Vantage Specialty Ingredients Inc for Concentrated Conditioner Drops The winner will be announced at the CEW Beauty Creators Awards Luncheon on November 7, 2023

The INDIE 360° Pavilion featured 14 curated brands that are new to market and have novel ingredients, for mulations, and unique concepts The People’s Choice Award went to INA Labs for their clean, clinically tested skincare for a woman ’ s most intimate skin from effective plant-based hygiene routines to OB/GYN-developed solutions for common concer ns

Plans are already underway for next year ’ s NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, which takes place on May 1-2, 2024 Roughly 80% of the 2023 exhibitors have registered and re-signed for the 2024 event. For exhibitor and sponsorship information about 2024 Suppliers’ Day, please send e-mail inquiries to: suppliersday@nyscc org

cor neum cells Salicylic acid is available in overthe-counter (OTC) products at a concentration of 0.5% to 2.0% (w/w). There are also products based on sulfur that are efficacious for acne treatment; however, these can often be aesthetically nonpleasing due to odors from sulfur

Typically, OTC products come in various for ms such as creams, lotions, washes, scrubs, and other product for mats 4 In some individuals, active ingredients in these products can cause dry skin, erythema, inflammation, and allergic contact der matitis. Ingredients can be used alone or in combination with one another, or they can be administered alongside oral antibiotics 1

Systemic Agents for Acne Treatment

The most common line of defense for more severe cases of acne vulgaris are oral retinoids (isotretinoin, which is used by itself) or oral antibiotics in combination with topical benzoyl peroxide or retinoids Isotretinoin is a common oral retinoid used for acne treatment It is highly efficacious in all aspects of acne treatment (e g , comedolytic profile, reduction of Cutibacterium acnes, decrease in sebum production, etc ) There are a host of possible side effects associated with isotretinoin treatment, although severe side effects are not common Mild side effects can be managed with dose adjustments and topical medications.5

The tetracyclines are the most common class of oral antibiotics employed for acne treatment and consist of tetracycline, doxycycline, minocycline, and sarecycline.6 They significantly reduce the Cutibacterium acnes bacteria count and ameliorate inflammation The American Academy of Der matology advises der matologists to prescribe oral antibiotics for no more than three to four months due to the risk of increased bacterial resistance.7 In addition, it is advised to administer oral antibiotics in combination with topical treatment

Hormonal therapy is another option for acne treatment, especially for adolescent females and women over the age of 25 where acne vulgaris has relapsed 5 The most common treatments are anti-androgens, contraceptive agents, and spironolactone As an example, contraceptive agents consist of an estrogen and progestin constituent and are often referred to as combination oral contraceptive pills (COCs). They function by modulating hor monal activity, controlling ovulation through a decrease in the levels of androgens, ultimately preventing pregnancy and controlling the symptoms of acne.

Prospects of Herbal Medicine in the Treatment of Acne

Alter native treatments, such as herbal medicine, are often sought after to treat ailments of the skin. There have been a number of studies investigating the effects of botanical ingredients on acne afflicted skin, which is nicely summarized in a recent review by Proença and coworkers.8 The most common botanicals which have been included in clinical trials consist of Aloe vera, Berberis vulgaris (barberry), Camellia sinensis (tea), and Melaleuca alter nifolia (tea tree)

Aloe vera is the gel obtained from the leaves of the plant, Aloe barbadensis miller, which is native to the Arabian Peninsula It has many medicinal properties and historically has been used to treat ailments of the skin such as psoriasis and acne as well as minor bur ns. Some of the principal components of the Aloe vera gel are amino acids, anthraquinones/anthrones, carbohydrates, chromones (phenolic compounds), enzymes, proteins, saccharides, and vitamins.9

Barberries are the red berries of the evergreen plant Berberis vulgaris Various biologically active compounds are found in barberry The most predominant consist of alkaloids, ascorbic acid, phenolic compounds, triterpenoids, and vitamin K.10 One of the most important alkaloids in barberries is berberine, which is considered one of the chief ingredients that offers acne protection In addition to its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, treatment with barberry produces an antilipogenic effect, which could contribute to its potential as an anti-acne agent 11

The therapeutic and health benefits of tea on the skin have been known for some time Camellia sinensis is an evergreen shrub known as the tea plant Its leaves are used to

(continued on Page 8)

The Science of Acne Care (continued from Page 7)

make black, green, and oolong tea, which are produced by different manufacturing processes Black tea is the most oxidized while green tea undergoes the mildest preparation process. One of the hallmarks of green tea is its catechin composition, which is a class of antioxidants There are four principal catechins in green tea, which consist of epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin-3-gallate, and epigallocatechin3-gallate. Black tea, on the other hand, predominantly contains the theaflavin and thearubigin antioxidants. Numerous studies have been carried out to determine the skin health benefits of green tea demonstrating its protection against erythema, UV-induced oxidation of lipids, photoimmunosuppression, and photocarcinogenesis 12 The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of green tea extract have led to its evaluation for acne treatment Overall, topical treatment with green tea extract decreases the inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions in patients who suffer from acne vulgaris 13

Tea tree oil is an essential oil distilled from the Australian tea tree plant (Melaleuca alter nifolia) It contains monoterprenes, such as terpinene-4-ol, 1,8-cineole, limonene, p-cymene, and α-terpinene, which have notable antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties In general, tea tree oil has been used to treat bacterial, viral, fungal, and protozoal infections of the skin.14 Its potential for the treatment of acne vulgaris has been well documented in the literature 15

Effects of Nutrition on the Development of Acne

The effect of diet on acne vulgaris is a controversial topic that has been the subject of debate in several reported accounts in the literature Prior to the 1960s, certain foods were associated with the development of acne However, during a period of almost fifty years links between acne and nutrition were dismissed. In recent years, scientists have reexamined associations between acne and food type in the diet. High glycemic load has been well established to aggravate acne vulgaris 16 Consumption of foods with a high glycemic index leads to an increase in the level of insulin, which concomitantly results in elevated amounts of insulin-like growth factor 1, which promotes lipogenesis, proliferation of keratinocytes and sebocytes, and androgen synthesis 1 These factors could play an integral role in the development or exacerbation of acne vulgaris.

The relationship between the intake of dairy products (especially skim milk), fat, and chocolate on the clinical state of acne vulgaris has also been investigated Overall, studies published in the literature suggest that there might be a link between these food types and acne 17 Possibly, these foods contain hor mones or can elicit hor monal effects that ultimately affect biochemical pathways associated with acne.

Blue Light Therapy for the Treatment of Acne Vulgaris

The biosynthesis of porphyrins by Cutibacterium acnes offers scientists a way to target acne with visible blue light. Porphyrins absorb light in the UV and blue light region of the electromagnetic spectrum. Ideally, subjecting acneic skin to phototherapy (also known as photobiomodulation) using laser light or LEDs (light emitting diodes) which emit blue light should decrease the number of Cutibacterium acnes colonies on the skin’s surface. While there appears to be some promise in the utilization of blue light therapy for acne, researchers of two comprehensive studies came to the conclusion that further work needs to be completed due to limitations in the methodologies that were used to grade acne in the existing literature 18,19

Role of the Skin Microbiome in the Etiology of Acne Vulgaris

The skin microbiota consists of beneficial bacteria, fungi, and viruses that work in conjunction with our innate and adaptive immune system to ward off foreign pathogens 20 W ithin the der matological community, it is often thought that Cutibacterium acnes is solely responsible from a microbiological standpoint for the development of acne vulgaris In fact, within each species of microbe there are various

strains some are beneficial to the host while others are not. For example, Cutibacterium acnes, which is the most abundant microbial species on the skin, is found in both healthy and acneic skin There are different strains of Cutibacterium acnes, which can be categorized into various phylogenetic groupings in accordance with their pathogenic or protective effect. Therefore, in addition to noting the strains of Cutibacterium acnes that are on the skin’s surface, it is equally important to know what other types of microbes are present. Likewise, the immune system’s response to the microbiota and their metabolic products probably also plays an integral role in acneic skin 21 Not surprisingly, dysbiosis (the imbalance of the skin microbiota) is believed to be responsible for several skin disorders including acne 22 In addition to genetic factors, the health state of the skin depends on interactions between resident cells and the delicate balance of various strains of microbes that constitute the microbiota

References

1 D Z Eichenfield, J Sprague, and LF Eichenfield, Management of acne vulgaris: a review, JAMA, 326(20): 2055-2067 (2021).

2. M.K. Arora, A. Yadav, and V. Saini, Role of hor mones in acne vulgaris, Clin. Biochem., 44: 10351040 (2011)

3. M. Zasada and E. Budzisz, Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure for mation in cosmetic and der matological treatments, Adv Der matol Allergol , 36(4): 392-397 (2019)

4. A. Decker and E.M. Graber, Over-the-counter acne treatments: a review, J. Clin. Aesthet. Der matol , 5(5): 32–40 (2012)

5. A. Tobiasz, D. Nowicka, J.C. Szepietowski, Acne vulgaris novel treatment options and factors affecting therapy adherence: a narrative review, J Clin Med , 11: 7535 (2022)

6 E M Graber, Treating acne with the tetracycline class of antibiotics: a review, Der matol Rev , 2(6), 321-330 (2021)

7 A L Zaenglein et al , Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris, J Am Acad Der matol , 74, 945-973 (2016)

8 A C Proença, A Luís, and A P Duarte, The role of herbal medicine in the treatment of acne vulgaris: a systematic review of clinical trials, Evid. Based Complementary Alter n. Med., 2011945 (2022).

9 J H Hamman, Composition and applications of Aloe vera leaf gel, Molecules, 13(8), 1599-1616 (2008).

10 M Rahimi-Madiseh, Z Lorigoini, H Zamani-gharaghoshi, and M Rafieian-kopaei, Berberis vulgaris: specifications and traditional uses, Iran J. Basic Med. Sci., 20(5), 569-587 (2017).

11 M Imenshahidi and H Hosseinzadeh, Berberine and barberry (Berberis vulgaris): a clinical review, Phytother. Res., 33(3), 504-523 (2019).

12. R. McMullen, Antioxidants and the Skin, CRC Press: Boca Raton, FL, 2019.

13 S Kim, T H Park, W I Kim, S Park, J H Kim, and M K Cho, The effects of green tea on acne vulgaris: a systematic review and meta-analysis of randomized clinical trials, Phytother. Res., 35(1), 374-383 (2021)

14. N. Pazyar, R. Yaghoobi, N. Bagherani, and A. Kazerouni, A review of applications of tea tree oil in der matology, Int J Der matol , 52(7), 784-790 (2013)

15. K.A. Hammer, Treatment of acne with tea tree oil (melaleuca) products: a review of efficacy, tolerability, and potential modes of action, Int J Antimicrob Agents, 45(2), 106-110 (2015)

16 W P Bowe, S S Joshi, and A R Shalita, Diet and acne, J Am Acad Der matol , 63(1), 124-141 (2010)

17 E H Spencer, H R Ferdowsian, and N D Bar nard, Diet and acne: a review of the evidence, Int J Der matol , 48, 339-347 (2009)

18 A M Scott et al , Blue-light therapy for acne vulgaris: a systematic review and meta-analysis, Ann. Fam. Med., 17(6), 545-553 (2019).

19 M L Gonçalves Diogo, Effect of blue light on acne vulgaris: a systematic review, Sensors, 21(20), 6943 (2021). DOI: 10.3390/s21206943.

20 A L Byrd, Y Belkaid, and J A Segre, The human skin microbiome, Nat Rev Microbiol , 16, 143155 (2018).

21 T Hitchcock, Rebooting the C acnes narrative, Pract Der matol , December 2021, pp 12-13

22 R Sfriso, M Egert, M Gempeler, R Voegeli, and R Campiche, Revealing the secret life of skin –with the microbiome you never walk alone, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 42(2), 116-126 (2020).

CSR program

Naturally committed to a sustainable world a to

NYSCC Acne Care Symposium

June 14, 2023 • 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.

Fairleigh Dickinson University

Florham Campus, Madison, New Jersey

Don’t miss this full-day symposium, which will include podium presentations from a line-up of inter nationally recognized experts in acne care as well as a technology poster session for attendees to interact with researchers in the field. The event will be held at the beautiful Fairleigh Dickinson University Florham Campus located in Madison, New Jersey

The campus consists of 178 acres, which is the for mer country estate of early 20th-century socialites Florence Vanderbilt and Hamilton Twombly.

Fairleigh Dickinson University instituted a Master of Science degree program in Cosmetic Science in 1982 one of the first of its kind It maintains close ties with the cosmetic industry where most of its professors come from leading institutions within industry, offering students a strong academic and practical approach to creating novel products

Event Chairs

• Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland, Inc.); e-mail: roger mcmullen@fdu edu

• Miao Wang (L’Oréal USA)

Registration

To register for this symposium, go to the Events section of NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org)

Proudly sponsored by...

Agenda:

9:00 a.m. – 9:45 a.m. Registration

9:45 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.

10:00 a m – 10:30 a m

Opening Remarks

Acne Update: What's New and What's True

– Mary Wu Chang, M.D. (University of Connecticut School of Medicine)

Key Strategic Targets for Mitigating Acne-Affected Skin

– Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D (Sytheon Ltd.)

11:00 a.m. – 11:15 a.m. Break 11:15 a.m. – 11:45 a.m.

Challenges Commonly Encountered with Acne Therapy

– Hilary Baldwin, M.D. (Acne Treatment and Research Center) 11:45 a m – 12:15 p m

Multi-modal and 3D Imaging for Objective Evaluation of Acne

– Sachin V. Patwardhan, Ph.D (Canfield Scientific Inc.) 12:15 p.m. – 12:45 p.m.

Category Insights and Consumer Trends

– Francine Krenicki (Crown Laboratories)

12:45 p m – 2:15 p m Poster Session and Lunch

2:15 p m – 2:45 p m

Cutibacterium Acnes, Phages, and Acne

– Nathan Brown, Ph.D. (Parallel Health)

2:45 p m – 3:15 p m

Evaluation of Microbiome Changes Related to Cleanser Use in Healthy and Acne Prone Skin

– Amina Bouslimani, Ph.D. (L’Oréal USA)

3:15 p.m. – 3:45 p.m. Troubled Skin, Inflammasomes, and the Skin’s Innate Immune Response: Is Targeting C. Acnes Enough?

– James V. Gruber (Vantage Specialties)

3:45 p m – 4:00 p m Break

4:00 p m – 4:30 p m Acne Vulgaris in the United States: Burden of Disease and Prescribing Trends

– Ayman Grada M.D. (Case Western Reserve University School of Medicine)

4:30 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. What If the Rules of Fighting Acne Have Changed?

Sophia Bull (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

5:00 p m – 6:00 p m Cocktail Reception

Symposium Location

Fairleigh Dickinson University

Florham Campus, Lenfell Hall (located in Hennessy Hall – #7 on the map)

285 Madison Avenue, Madison, New Jersey (continued on Page 12)

Symposium Chairs and Moderators

n Chair – Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.

Roger has over 20 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is a Principal Scientist at Ashland Inc and leads the Material Science team in the Measurement Science department. Roger has over 50 publications in peerreviewed jour nals and textbooks He is also the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition and founded the online news magazine The Cosmetic Chemist Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph D in Biophysical Chemistry from Seton Hall University

Roger actively engages and participates in educational activities in the personal care industry He frequently teaches continuing education courses for the SCC and TRI-Princeton In addition, Roger is an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M S degrees in Cosmetic Science and Phar maceutical Chemistry Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U S Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48) He is fluent in Spanish and Catalan and currently is lear ning to play the classical guitar.

n Co-Chair – Miao Wang

Miao Wang is an Assistant V ice President at L'Oréal Advanced Research, leading the Inter national Innovative Ingredients team in the U S She has over 20 years of experience in research, innovation, and product development in the Personal Care industry, with extensive capabilities in leading multi-disciplinary teams in building innovation pipelines and roadmaps launching disruptive and fast track technologies, developing strategic relationships with exter nal partners and inter nal stakeholders, and assessing and integrating new collaboration partners to grow U.S. ecosystems supporting green science. Miao has led the team to successfully transfor m innovation to launches with brands of CeraVe, Kiehl's, Maybelline New York, SkinCeuticals, L'Oréal Paris, Gar nier, Carol's Daughter, Urban Decay, and NYX to address consumer needs. Miao has a B.S.E. in Chemical Engineering and M.S. in Applied Phar maceutical Science Miao has over 70 patents and publications and serves as an industrial advisor on board committees.

n

Moderator –

Ramine Parsa, Ph.D.

Ramine Parsa is currently a Research Manager and Fellow at Kenvue

Previously part of the Johnson & Johnson family of companies, Kenvue is now a separate publicly traded company as of May 2023. Ramine has 12 years of experience at Johnson & Johnson Consumer in bringing innovation and scientific insights to the commercial pipeline for skin health. Prior to joining Johnson & Johnson, he held various roles in biotechnology startups in consumer health with an emphasis on der matology and eye care He received his Ph D in Molecular and Cellular Endocrinology from the University of Sciences of Pierre et Marie Curie in France Ramine is the inventor of 16 granted patents and co-author of 10 peer-reviewed research publications. He is a mentor to new scientists and scholars. Throughout his career, Ramine has received multiple scientific awards including the 2021 Johnson Medal for his work on Acetyl Dipeptide

n Moderator – Gopinathan K. Menon, Ph.D.

Gopinathan K. Menon obtained his M.S. and Ph.D. degrees from the University of Baroda, India, and also held a faculty position in the same university

In 1979, he spent a year as a Homi Bhabha Fellow and V isiting Professor at Michigan State University where he trained in electron microscopy of skin In a subsequent sabbatical at the Elias laboratory in University of Califor nia, San Francisco (UCSF), from 1982-1984, he began his focus on skin barrier, and in 1988 moved to San Francisco as a full-time Research Faculty in Der matology at UCSF

From 1993 to 2017, he held various research positions in the personal care industry in the United States, including Principal Research Fellow and Head, Skin Biology Research at Avon Products and Senior Research Fellow at Inter national Specialty Products (later merged with Ashland, Inc ) Presently, he is a Fellow of the Califor nia Academy of Sciences, San Francisco.

His honors include being awarded a Homi Bhabha Fellowship, elected as a Fellow of the Califor nia Academy of Sciences, Chair of the Gordon Research Conference on Barrier Function of Mammalian Skin (2011), and induction to the GRC Chairs’ Hall of Fame (2012) He has been an invited speaker at national and inter national meetings and has over a hundred publications that include peer reviewed research papers, reviews, and book chapters

n Poster Session Moderator – Raymond B. Clark

Bret Clark is a Technical Leader in the Spectroscopy department at Ashland Specialty Ingredients with a focus on NMR and infrared spectroscopy He is active in both the NYSCC and the New York-New Jersey ACS Spectroscopy group He ear ned a B S in Chemistry at Rutgers University and an M S in Analytical and Organic Chemistry at Seton Hall University.

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

Acne Update: What’s New and What’s True

Mary Wu Chang (University of Connecticut School of Medicine)

Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States, affecting up to 50 million Americans annually Approximately 85% of people between the ages of 12 and 24 have acne Adult acne is increasing, and now affects up to 15 percent of women This talk will begin with a look at different types of acne and review the medications in the der matologist's ar mamentarium.

n Mary Wu Chang,

M.D.

Dr Chang is a board-certified dermatologist and pediatric dermatologist with over 26 years ' experience. After graduating from University of W isconsin School of Medicine and Public Health, she went on to complete a pediatrics residency at Kaiser San Francisco followed by a der matology residency at Wayne State University she served as Chief Resident for both residencies. Dr. Chang then joined the full-time faculty at NYU Medical Center for 7 years before moving to Connecticut in 2005. Currently, Dr. Chang is Associate Professor of Der matology and Pediatrics at the University of Connecticut School of Medicine where she runs a busy clinic and enjoys teaching medical students as well as der matology and pediatric resident physicians. She has published extensively in the literature and frequently lectures regionally and nationally Her interests include hemangiomas and vascular malfor mations, severe acne, atopic der matitis, and clinical drug trials.

Key Strategic Targets for Mitigating Acne-Affected Skin

Ratan K. Chaudhuri (Sytheon Ltd.)

We have come a long way since 1896, when it was suggested that Propionibacterium acnes found in acne lesions was the cause of acne Recently, high resolution core genome analysis combining 16S rRNA gene sequences led to changing the name of P. acnes to Cutibacterium acnes (Scholtz et al , Int J Sys Evo Microbiol , 66: 4422-4432, 2016) While the commensal bacterium

C. acnes is involved in the maintenance of healthy skin, it can also act as an opportunistic pathogen in acne vulgaris Recent studies have shown that the relative abundance of C acnes (in metagenomics studies) is similar among patients with acne and healthy individuals (87%–89%) or even higher in healthy subjects (89% to 94%) Multiple studies highlighted that the severity of acne might not only be due to a specific C acnes strain but also due to host and environmental factors Early and intense inflammatory events in the epider mis have indeed been shown to contribute to the development of acne.

Typically, the mean lifetime of each acne lesion is a few days for inflammatory and a few weeks for (continued on Page 14)

BEAUTY

non-inflammatory ones Two distinct, partially overlapping, processes need to be addressed during the treatment of acne One is accelerating the healing of the ongoing lesions and the other one is to prevent the huge number of sebaceous glands prone to enter the acne cycle. Therefore, the key strategic targets in acne care appear to be the pilosebaceous follicle that is not yet involved in the acne cycle and the second one is to adequately control the key switching factors of comedone for mation for long ter m relief. A multi-tasking strategy is needed to improve the conditions of acne-affected skin Taking all these factors into consideration, we will address key targets governing acne therapy while preventing hyperpigmentation issues Discussions will also include reasons for selecting ingredients for mitigating acne-affected skin

n Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D.

Dr. Chaudhuri is President and CEO of Sytheon, which he founded in 2006. Sytheon is an innovative global specialty ingredient company Sytheon’s global headquarters is in Parsippany, New Jersey, USA with its two affiliates in France and Singapore Ratan is a humble entrepreneur by heart and a thinker with strong leadership skills He has developed numerous best-in-class products for the personal care industry, just to name two recent gold standards – Sytenol A (Bakuchiol) and Synovea HR (Hexylresorcinol) Ratan holds over 100 U S and international patents and has over 100 publications including six book chapters. Ratan has been named as one of the top 10 inspiring business leaders by Inc Magazine to watch in 2022 He can be reached by telephone (+1 201-303-5594) or e-mail (ratan@sytheonltd com)

Challenges Commonly Encountered with Acne Therapy

Hilary Baldwin (Acne Treatment and Research Center)

In this presentation, we will address challenges in topical and oral acne treatment Topical retinoids are the mainstay of acne therapy They improve existing lesions, and prevent the development of the microcomedones, which are the predecessors of future lesions. However, topical retinoids can be irritating, especially in the first few weeks of treatment This often leads to inconsistent use or discontinuation. Benzoyl peroxide is a highly effective, rapid-onset antibacterial which does not promote the development of bacterial resistance It also decreases the development of antibacterial resistance to both topical and oral antibiotics with which is it used in combination Unfortunately, benzoyl peroxide is a concentration-dependent irritant it bleaches fabric and is an uncommon sensitizer.

Oral antibiotics are highly effective in treating the inflammatory lesions of acne However, the effects are rarely durable resulting in overuse and the development of bacterial resistance. Pregnant and lactating women often experience acne Unfortunately, clinical trials do not include this population and as such, little exists in the way of efficacy or safety data As a result, these patients are generally told by their obstetricians to forgo treatment until delivery/weaning regardless of the severity of their disease

Isotretinoin can be used to treat the most severe cases of acne and 80% of those who complete a course will not need acne treatment again. It should be noted that there are many potential side effects of the drug, most of which are easily managed The inter net tells a different story, however, frightening patients with misinfor mation.

n Hilary Baldwin, M.D.

Hilary Baldwin is a board-certified der matologist and Medical Director of the Acne Treatment and Research Center in Brooklyn, New York She is a Clinical Associate Professor of Der matology at Rutgers Robert Wood Johnson Medical Center Dr Baldwin has interests in acne, rosacea, keloidal scarring, cosmeceuticals, and the skin microbiome. She is a frequent national and inter national lecturer and visiting professor, and her work has been published extensively in der matology jour nals. Dr. Baldwin served as a founding board member and second president of the American Acne and Rosacea Society

Multi-modal and 3D Imaging for Objective Evaluation of Acne

Sachin V. Patwardhan (Canfield Scientific Inc.)

Lesion counts and Investigators Global Assessment (IGA) are the primary endpoints in acne clinical studies However, they both suffer from inter- and intra-evaluator variability Characteristics of acne lesions can be captured, detected, and objectively measured using multi-modal imaging. Collectively these detected characteristics can identify both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions, and the measurements can be translated to a global severity score These objective measurements have been used in several clinical studies as exploratory endpoints or for verifying subject enrollment Canfield Scientific’s VISIA-CRP now combines multi-modal imaging with micron-resolution 3D facial imaging This has further improved the ability to detect, and measure, raised topography of acne lesions. VISIA-CRP and its early use in reducing variability in clinical trials, standardizing outcomes, and obtaining more insights into treatment effects will be presented.

n Sachin V. Patwardhan, Ph.D.

Dr. Sachin V. Patwardhan is the Chief Intellectual Property Officer and Senior Principal Scientist at Canfield Scientific Inc He developed a multi-spectral imaging device for early diagnosis of melanoma during his Ph.D. at New Jersey Institute of Technology (NJIT) He then helped in establishing the optical radiology lab at Washington University School of Medicine in Saint Louis while doing postdoctoral research His research there involved developing a small animal diffuse optical and fluorescence tomography system for studying disease models with targeted treatment. Since then, for the past 16 years he has focused his research on developing optical imaging techniques and image analysis algorithms for objective assessment of skin diseases and aesthetic conditions at Canfield Scientific Inc. His work is published in several jour nals, and he has 11 granted patents and counting

Category Insights and Consumer Trends

Francine Krenicki (Crown Laboratories)

In this presentation we will discuss the acne category's past, present, and future We will analyze and provide insight to where acne treatment is headed in the future and share some experiences of what works for selected brands In addition, we will dive into ingredient trends and consumer insights

n Francine Krenicki

Francine Krenicki is a beauty executive with over 20 years of experience specializing in new product development, innovation, and brand strategy and has created award winning for mulas in product categories including skincare, color, personal care, haircare, and fragrance. She has dedicated her career to creating meaningful product innovation that resonates with consumers and creates consistent brand loyalty. Currently Francine is the Senior Vice President of Global Product Development for Crown Laboratories where she oversees innovation for eight skincare brands including the iconic PanOxyl Acne line as well as the top s e l l i n g p re m i u m c l i n i c a l s k i n c a re b r a n d S t r i Ve c t i n . P r i o r t o j o i n i n g C ro w n Laboratories, Francine launched the clean clinical skincare brand Skinfix

Cutibacterium Acnes, Phages, and Acne

Nathan Brown (Parallel Health)

Acne vulgaris was first attributed to Cutibacterium acnes bacteria isolated from acne lesions by Raymond Sabouraud in 1897 Bacteriophages (phages), which infect bacteria, have been used to treat bacterial infections since they were discovered in the early 20th century Phages have

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been used to treat acne almost as long In some cases, Staphylococcus phages were used, and in other cases, Cutibacterium phages were used, which reflects the long-standing debate over which bacterium “exactly” is involved in the development of acne. Currently, specific phylotypes of C. acnes are thought to be involved in acne, though it’s still debated whether C acnes has any role to play Unfortunately, Koch’s Postulates cannot be used to clarify the role of C. acnes in acne vulgaris because the bacteria are ubiquitous on healthy skin with sebaceous glands New methods such as fine-scale population genomics of C acnes isolated from hair follicles, shotgun metagenomics methods, and topically applied phages may shed light on the role of C acnes and other bacteria in the development of acne

n Nathan Brown, Ph.D.

Dr Nathan Brown ear ned his Ph D in Microbiology in 2016 from Oregon State University, where he worked on bacteriophage and bacterial genomics, and used metagenomics to study bacterial ecology He did postdoctoral work on phage therapy at the University of Leicester in Leicester, UK He left academia in 2018 to develop the world’s first phage-based cosmetic product, launched in March 2020 Since 2020, he and his cofounder, Natalise Kalea Robinson, have been developing personalized phage-based cosmetics paired with an advanced skin microbiome test at Parallel Health He has over 15 years of experience working with bacteriophages in different capacities and is passionate about introducing phages to the general population as part of a better way of life

Evaluation of Microbiome Changes Related to Cleanser Use in Healthy and Acne Prone Skin

Amina Bouslimani (L’Oréal USA)

Topical acne management involves a judicially chosen treatment regimen paired with a compatible cleanser to remove dirt and excess oil without compromising protective lipid and microbiome barrier, while addressing acne-related microbiome imbalance To build knowledge on the acute and long-ter m effect of cleansers on skin properties and the microbiome in healthy and acne-prone skin, different types of cleansers were evaluated over a 28-day regimen Facial microbiome samples were collected at different intervals after cleansing and analyzed by 16S rRNA sequencing and qPCR. The effect of cleansing on sebum and skin hydration was evaluated at the same time points

All cleansers had a similar and transient effect on sebum, hydration, and bacterial diversity immediately after cleansing Cleanser composition had however a differential effect on the kinetics of skin properties and microbiome recovery These results implicate the importance of future studies to support development of next generation cleansers for healthy and acne prone skin.

n Amina Bouslimani,

Currently a Senior Scientist at L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Amina establishes exter nal partnerships with academia and industry to accelerate knowledge about the skin microbiome and identify new technologies and actives for compromised skin. Amina completed her Ph.D. in Biochemistry and Biomedical Sciences at the University of Montpellier in France where she studied the penetration and intra-tumoral metabolism of chemotherapeutic drugs in clinical samples using imaging mass spectrometry techniques She completed a postdoctoral fellowship and then worked as a Project Scientist at the University of Califor nia San Diego in Professor Pieter Dorrestein’s laboratory. She developed metabolomics-based tools to analyze and visualize large-scale metabolomics data and to link skin metabolites to their associated microbes. Her research interests included studying the impact of individual lifestyles on skin metabolites and microbes, identifying molecular biomarkers of skin conditions, and forensic applications to link skin chemical signatures to molecular traces transferred to everyday objects

Ph.D.

Tom Balsamides

375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM

Supplier of specialty materials!

Troubled Skin, Inflammasomes, and the Skin’s Innate

Immune Response: Is Targeting C. Acnes Enough?

James V. Gruber (Vantage Specialties)

Historically, treatments for acne have focused on a known causal microbial agent, Cutibacterium acnes (C acnes), that is known to exist in high numbers in acne lesions It has been suggested that C. acnes, which populates the human skin microbiome typically as a non-pathological entity, becomes pathological in acne outbreaks However, the fundamental question of whether C acnes causes acne outbreaks, or whether it is simply responding to a modification of the skin’s innate immune response has not been adequately answered What is known is that most FDA-approved treatments for acne address the high levels of C acnes, which seems to effectively control acne outbreaks In 2002, researchers discovered the NOD-like receptor proteins (NLRP inflammasomes). These skin cell Terracotta Warrior-like sentinel proteins are the key that starts the engine of innate inflammation It has been now shown that C. acnes can elicit an innate immune response in both sebocytes and keratinocytes with a concomitant increase in NLRP inflammasome expression, and its subsequent activation of active Caspase 1, a potent protease that causes numerous downstream inflammatory responses So, the problem with troubled skin may not rest solely with control of the skin commensal C. acnes but may lie in understanding and controlling the skin’s innate immune response driven, in part, by the presence of pathological C acnes and its interaction with the skin’s innate immune response. This talk will address the skin’s innate immune response and focus on how certain well-known acne actives, like salicylic acid and azelaic acid, may do more than just kill C. acnes.

n James (V ince) Gruber, Ph.D.

Dr James (V ince) Gruber is the Director of New Product Development at Vantage Specialties developing new ideas and technologies for the personal care, cosmetic, and therapeutic industries Prior to joining Vantage Specialties, Dr Gruber held positions at Jeen, Botaneco, Sensient, Arch/Lonza, and Amerchol among others leading technical teams and developing active and functional ingredients He is the author of 40 refereed articles including 21 referenced in PubMed and holds 13 granted U.S. patents and additional published World Patent applications He has authored numerous edited articles and book chapters and is an author and co-editor of the book Principals of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care

Acne Vulgaris in the United States: Burden of Disease and Prescribing Trends

Ayman Grada (Case Wester n Reserve University School of Medicine)

Acne vulgaris is the most common reason for pediatric patients and third most common reason for adult patients to seek care from a dermatologist in the U S If not treated effectively, acne can lead to permanent scars. Acne is also associated with a significant psychosocial burden that impacts quality of life However, referring providers may be reluctant to initiate patients on acne treatment or certain prescriptions. In this presentation, we will review current temporal trends in epidemiology and burden of disease in the U S stratified by age, gender, and region We will share some insights on the evolving treatment paradigm and prescribing habits among dermatologists and other clinicians treating acne vulgaris

n Ayman Grada, M.D.

Dr. Grada is a U.S.-trained der matologist and a physician-scientist with over 17 years combined clinical practice, academic research, and regulated biopharma and biotech experience He currently serves as an Adjunct Professor of Der matology at Case Wester n Reserve University School of Medicine. Dr. Grada finished his der matology training and a postdoctoral fellowship in cutaneous wound healing at Boston University School of Medicine. He has published more than 120 articles in peer-reviewed jour nals on medical der matology, including

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acne vulgaris, actinic keratosis, wound healing, and epidemiology topics Dr Grada has also been serving as a Medical Director of Der matology at AbbVie Prior to joining AbbVie, Dr Grada served as the Head of R&D and Medical Affairs at Almirall (U.S.), focusing on acne vulgaris. Dr. Grada is an active physician member of the American Academy of Der matology (AAD), European Academy of Der matology and Venereology (EADV), Society for Investigative Der matology (SID), Inter national Society of Der matology (ISD), American Acne and Rosacea Society (AARS), and the Wound Healing Society (WHS)

What If the Rules of Fighting Acne Have Changed?

Sophia Bull (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

Although the causes of acne are multifactorial, the involvement of microbiota is undeniable, particularly regarding the role played by Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes). Our knowledge about this bacterium has evolved to include new understanding of its mode of action, which offers a new strategic perspective in the battle against acne C acnes hyperproliferation has long been thought to contribute to the development of acne, but recent studies now indicate that excess C. acnes colonization might not be an important factor, as a very small difference in the comparative amount of these bacteria in individuals with and without acne has been reported. Also, it was recently discovered that healthy skin and acneic skin have different C acnes ribotype distribution profiles between “acneic” and “non-acneic” strains

W ith this recent update on acne science, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics challenged the existing mechanisms of action to rethink the battle against acne with the next generation of anti-acne ingredients Composed of a unique patented lysine dendrimer obtained with a green chemistry manufacturing process, our dendrimer selectively weakens the acneic C acnes strains to favor growth of non-acneic strains to gently rebalance the acnebiome of acne-prone skin, therefore recovering healthier microbiota and reducing the appearance of acne

n Sophia Bull

Sophia Bull joined Lucas Meyer Cosmetics as the Regional Marketing Manager for North America in 2019. In this role she supports customers and delivers regionalized promotions and launches She is based at the IFF headquarters in New York City After several years working in the phar maceutical industry, Sophia began her career in the personal care industry as regulatory support for Croda, building on her technical background Roles in marketing and sales followed at Croda and then at Botaneco. Sophia obtained her master’s degree in Chemistry from the University of Leeds in the United Kingdom

NYSCC Acne Care Symposium

Poster Technology Session

Poster Session Agenda:

• Highlights on a 3-D In Vitro Model Supporting the Development of a Natural Active Ingredient Dedicated to Acne Skin

– David Boudier (SILAB)

• Fluorescence EEM Spectroscopic Detection of Salicylic Acid Deposition on Skin from Wash-Off Products In Vivo

– Mark A. Davies, Ph.D. (Ashland Inc )

• The Role of a Cosmetic Ingredient Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate for Mitigating Acne and Improving the Outcome of Acne Treatment

– Howard Epstein, Ph.D. (EMD Electronics – An Affiliate of Merck KGaA)

• Multi-Targeted Solution for Mitigating Acne-Affected Skin

Martin Vethamuthu, Ph.D. (Sytheon)

• Lipidated Glycines as an Alter native to Conventional Anti-Acne Ingredients

– Sabrina Behnke, Ph.D. and Anneliese Schlick (TRI-K Industries)

• Assessing the Efficacy of a New Multifunctional Ingredient for Helping Topical Acne Treatment

– Cristiane Pacheco (Chemyunion)

• Using Bio-Identical Proteins for Acne Control (Bonus: Cruelty-Free and Sustainable!)

– Hannah Sivak, Ph.D. (Skin Actives Scientific)

• Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur: A Cold-Processable, Upcycled, and Reduced Odor Sulfur as an Effective Choice for Acne Treatment

– Cristina Abbastante (Aurorium)

• Addressing the Challenges of Oily Skin with a Cosmetogenomic Approach

– Sally Hashemi and Michelle Yip (Seder ma, Croda Inc.)

• Unlocking the Acne Microbiome

– Patrick Gonry (Gobiotics-Ingredients)

• Understanding the Role of the Gut-Skin Axis in Acne-Prone Skin

Nicole Townsend and Ryan McLendon (Nutrafol)

• Boosting Skin’s Defense Mechanism Through Phase II Detoxification

– Nancy Bezies (Clariant Actives)

Highlights on a 3-D In Vitro Model Supporting the Development of a Natural Active Ingredient Dedicated to Acne Skin

David Boudier, M. Mangier, M. Laclaverie, E. Aymard, and B. Closs (SILAB)

Acne is an inflammatory skin disease of the pilosebaceous unit, involving four essential factors: hyperseborrhea combined with a modification of sebum composition, colonization by Cutibacterium (C ) acnes, hyperkeratinization, and secreted inflammation Understanding and mimicking these compromised skin types is essential for further development of therapeutic solutions.

SILAB thus decided to develop a new in vitro 3-D model mimicking acneic skin by combining two main factors involved in the physiopathology: altered sebum composition and C. acnes invasion. Nor mal human keratinocytes were first used to generate reconstructed human epider mis (RHE) that were then left untreated (control) or treated topically with a combination of both peroxidized squalene and C acnes cultures. Once validated and considered relevant to mimic acneic skin, this model was further improved by using different phylotypes of C acnes strains collected by swabbing healthy volunteers and acneic patients. While both phylotypes IB and II did not significantly alter RHE, C. acnes IA1 strains induce major acneic skin hallmarks such as hyperkeratinization, secreted inflammation, and altered barrier function Interestingly, these results were obtained independently of the origin of IA1 phylotypes (acneic vs healthy patient), thus suggesting a role of the ecosystem in controlling C acnes virulence in healthy skin 1

This in vitro 3-D model mimicking acneic skin was used to screen several active molecules leading to the identification of a potential candidate for which the mechanism of action and phar macological

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studies were analyzed in detail The resulting active ingredient (Acnesium; INCI: Maltodextrin and Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract) restores the homeostasis of acneic skin by significantly targeting the principal abnor malities of this skin pathology. The following is a summary of the results (significant results with *** = P<0 001; ** = P<0 01; * = P<0 05):

• The activity of sebaceous gland is regulated by reducing 5α-reductase activity (–37%*), limiting lipid droplets secretion (up to –90%***), and restoring lipophagy (+121%**)

• Hyperkeratinization is reduced by limiting the synthesis of cytokeratin 5 (–85%**) and cytokeratin 16 (–92%**)

• Colonization by the virulent phylotype of C. acnes was mastered by limiting C. acnes phylotype IA1 growth by at least 50%, reducing the quorum sensing activity (–26%*), and preventing biofilm for mation (–43%**

• Inflammation is neutralized by limiting keratinocyte inflammation (CCL5: –100%*, CCL20: –78%, CXCL1: –94%**, IL-1α: –90%**, IL-8: –88%**); sebocyte inflammation (IL-6: –109%**, IL-8: –126%) and inflammation mediated by Th17 lymphocytes (IL-17: –38%**).

In conclusion, the development of a relevant 3-D in vitro model with the main characteristic components of acneic skin allowed the development of a natural active ingredient with transversal in vitro and in vivo efficacy Its therapeutic efficacy was demonstrated in a study conducted by dermatologists in adult Caucasian volunteers with slight to moderate acne. The clinical study reveals that the GEA (Global Evaluation Acne) score decreases significantly, and the number of lesions is reduced The natural active ingredient thus improves the quality and appearance of acneic skin, as well as the self- perception and quality of life of subjects Maltodextrin and Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract is an effective product combining rapidity of action and efficacy in the daily care of acneic skin

Reference

1 P Rouaud-Tinguely et al , From the morphological to the transcriptomic characterization of a compromised three-dimensional in vitro model mimicking atopic der matitis, BJD, 173(4): 1006-1014 (2015).

n David Boudier

Mr David Boudier is a graduate of the Institut de Physiologie et de Biologie Cellulaire, University of Poitiers, France He holds an engineering degree in Cellular Biology He was a project leader in the SILAB cell culture laboratory for three years and then transitioned to the manager of the scientific communication unit for twelve years Currently, he is the Scientific Support Manager in R&D at SILAB.

Fluorescence EEM Spectroscopic Detection of Salicylic Acid Deposition on Skin from Wash-Off Products In Vivo

Mark A. Davies (Ashland Inc.)

Non-invasive spectroscopic methods can be used to monitor the state of skin and the presence of materials deposited to the skin from personal care products This poster will focus on in vivo fluorescence spectrophotometry, which can provide chemical infor mation about endogenous skin fluorophores and deposited materials The principles of each of these techniques, along with the origins of endogenous fluorescence spectroscopic signals in skin will be reviewed. Examples will then be presented illustrating the use of fluorescence excitation-emission matrices (EEM) for the detection of salicylic acid deposited on skin Data analysis methods used in these studies will also be discussed

n Mark A. Davies, Ph.D.

Dr Davies received his B A in Chemistry from New York University His work in spectroscopy began with his Ph.D. thesis project on Raman Optical Activity with Prof. Max Diem at the City University of New

York. This was followed by postdoctoral work on infrared spectroscopic studies of acyl chain confor mational disorder in lipid bilayer phase transitions with Prof Richard Mendelsohn at Rutgers University work which was continued as a Research Assistant Professor in the Biochemistry Department at Georgetown University School of Medicine He has carried out in vivo measurements of the efficacy of skin care products and cosmetics at Unilever, L’Oréal, and, presently, at Ashland Inc , where he conducts a variety of infrared and Raman spectroscopic studies, chemical mapping, and other physical measurements as appropriate to business needs

The Role of a Cosmetic Ingredient Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate for Mitigating Acne and Improving the Outcome of Acne Treatment

Howard Epstein (EMD Electronics – An Affiliate of Merck KGaA)

Acne is the most common skin condition that people experience An estimated 80% of people ages 11 to 30 will have at least a mild for m of acne Excessive sebum, bacteria, and dead skin cells clog pores or hair follicles creating potential for acne development. Other triggers of acne include environmental air pollution and high humidity Further, excessive proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes can alter the composition of sebum inducing the release of proinflammatory mediators by sebocytes A panel of experts recently published a review paper concluding that photoprotection can improve the outcome of acne treatment, because UV light can induce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation/erythema and initiate acne flares. It was concluded that the use of specifically for mulated sunscreens could enhance topical therapy, decrease inflammation, and reduce the incidence of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation/erythema.

This poster shows the results of a study assessing the ability of bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate (HDBM; RonaCare AP) to improve the outcome of volunteers with oily, blemished skin

The study was carried out as a randomized, placebo-controlled, single-blind study on 44 volunteers with blemished skin over a period of 8 weeks Sebum measurement, skin inflammation/redness scoring by an expert grader, photographic documentation, and a self-assessment regarding skin improvement and aesthetics were also conducted Treatment with 2% HDBM resulted in a significant reduction of sebum excretion and showed efficacy against inflamed/red lesions as shown by photographic documentation Efficacy and galenic perfor mance of 2% HDBM were judged to be superior to the placebo emulsion Conclusions from this and other studies is that HDMB is ideal for use in cosmetic for mulations, serves as an efficient sunscreen stabilizer and potent antioxidant and can replace BHT as an antioxidant to protect for mulations

n Howard Epstein, Ph.D.

Howard Epstein is Director of Technical Services for EMD Electronics, Surface Solutions, Philadelphia, PA an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Dar mstadt, Ger many He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati Department of Dermatology and received his Ph.D. in Phar macognosy from the Union Institute and University in Cincinnati, Ohio during that time He has worked in the cosmetics industry for many years since he began his career, for mulating cosmetics for Estée Lauder, Maybelline, Max Factor, Bausch & Lomb, and Kao Brands In addition to his interest in botanicals, Howard previously served as editor of the Jour nal of the Society of Cosmetic Science and is a member of the Inter national Academy of Der matology He is on the editorial board of the der matological jour nals Clinics in Der matology and SKINmed representing the cosmetics industry to dermatologists. Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including several chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology and holds eight patents. He received the Maison G. deNavarre Medal Award in 2020, the society’s highest honor supporting the best interests of the cosmetics and personal care industry

Multi-Targeted Solution for Mitigating Acne-Affected Skin

Martin Vethamuthu (Sytheon)

Acne is a multifactorial disease that affects the pilosebaceous unit of the skin Der matologists have shown that the pathophysiology of acne disease is a permutation of follicular hyper-keratinization, microbial colonization, sebum production, inflammation, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

As a result, there are many different etiologies of acne, including acne cosmetica, acne mechanica, and hor monal acne in this category

been rationally designed to overcome all major targets in acne-care therapy while preventing any post

become plugged, skin bacteria begin to grow inside the sebaceous glands leading to inflammation manifested as cysts and papules The first strategy with Synactin AC is to minimize inflammation and i m p ro v e

sebum quality need to be controlled. The final strategy is to target anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory pathways that can reduce or prevent serious acne breakouts, hyperpigmentation spots, and scarring of skin.

Clinically, an acne control lotion with Synactin AC showed significant reduction of whiteheads, blackheads, and number of total acne lesions in a six-week pilot anti-acne study The study also demonstrated reduction in erythema, post inflammatory hyperpigmented spots, and improvements in pores as well as the overall texture and appearance of skin

n Martin Vethamuthu, Ph.D.

Dr. Martin Vethamuthu is the R&D Director at Sytheon Ltd. Martin ear ned his Ph D in Colloid Science from the University of Uppsala, Sweden and has over 24 years of experience specializing in new product innovations and multifunctional active ingredients for skincare, hair care, fragrances, and functional foods. At Sytheon, Martin’s big thrust is on the research and innovation of a powerful and unique portfolio of antioxidants inspired by nature with proven perfor mance for personal care applications

Lipidated Glycines as an Alternative to Conventional Anti-Acne Ingredients

Sabrina Behnke, Ph.D. and Anneliese Schlick (TRI-K Industries)

Lipidated glycines represent a mild and skin friendly alter native to conventional, monographed anti-acne ingredients such as salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide Our data shows excellent activity of a capryloyl glycine and undecylenoyl glycine mixture (tradename: Galguard LipoG) in time kill studies against Cutibacterium acnes as well as in clinical studies on volunteers [measured as the overall reduction volume (mm3) of acne]. Lipidated glycines are known for their 5α reductase efficacy, helping to regulate sebum on the skin while keeping the skin pH at a level beneficial for microbiome health However, lipidated glycines bring additional benefits to for mulations as they help with production protection and reduce the amount of preservative that needs to be added The molecules are produced by a patented green chemistry process, featuring 100% atom economy, non-hazardous reagents, and a biodegradable catalyst. Galguard LipoG is a skin-friendly, sustainable alternative to conventionally used ingredients

n Anneliese Schlick

Anneliese Schlick is a Product Management Specialist for Modern Preservatives at TRI-K Industries. Anneliese manages product portfolios and product marketing initiatives as well as facilitating moder n preservative business development She

obtained her master’s degree in Cosmetic Science at Fairleigh Dickinson University in an accelerated 4+1 program Even at a young age, Anneliese had a passion for cosmetics and skin care, but most importantly the art of transfor ming people’s inner beauty onto the exterior W ith her passion, she has developed three years of sales experience and has expansive consumer knowledge of the beauty industry. This allows her to flourish at TRI-K Industries while collaborating with Marketing and the Business team to provide the best raw materials and for mulations to customers.

Assessing the Efficacy of a New Multifunctional Ingredient for Helping Topical Acne Treatment

Cristiane Pacheco (Chemyunion)

Acne is a common skin condition that affects millions of people worldwide and is the eighth most common cutaneous problem While traditional treatments such as topical and oral medications have shown some success, they can also cause adverse side effects. As such, there is growing interest in the use of other ingredients combined with the OTC products to work synergistically for helping acne treatment

The synergistic combination of propanediol, caprylic acid, and xylitol has been shown to have antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and sebum regulation properties, making it a promising option for helping acne treatment. In this sense, the efficacy and safety of this new ingredient at low concentration was evaluated We have conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial in which participants with light acne vulgaris, level I or II, were assigned to receive either the placebo for mula or the for mula with the active ingredient.

In this study, the active ingredient was compared to placebo, and it helped to reduce acne lesions by 53% and the presence of porphyrins by 43% (related to C. acnes) in just 7 days of treatment. In addition, it reduced redness and inflamed lesions by 15% after 14 days and decreased skin oiliness by 20% after 28 days of the study through the regulation of the enzyme 5-alpha reductase

n Cristiane Pacheco

Cristiane Pacheco is New Business Vice President of Chemyunion, Inc. U.S. Pacheco joined Chemyunion in 1998 and has 25 years of professional global personal care experience. She has led the Research and Development department and currently heads the U S New Business, Sales, and Operations team Cristiane is a Phar macist and holds an MBA in addition to a postgraduate degree in Cosmetology.

Using Bio-Identical Proteins for Acne Control (Bonus: Cruelty-Free and Sustainable!)

Hannah Sivak (Skin Actives Scientific)

Herbalists and shamans may have been the first to use natural products like royal jelly to alleviate human ills. Phar macologists then identified the active chemicals, biochemists purified them, and protein chemists built the pure proteins Royal jelly has antimicrobial and immunomodulatory properties that could be used to help control acne The chemical that gives royal jelly its antibacterial and wound-healing activity is a small protein, defensin-1, which increases keratinocyte migration, wound closure, and stimulates metalloproteinase-9 secretion by keratinocytes (proteinases are involved in the complex process of healing which involves synthesis and degradation of multiple proteins).

Royal jelly is expensive, and it has an even higher ethical cost; this is why we need an alter native approach Bee defensin-1 by Skin Actives is a laboratory-made protein identical to the one that gives honeybee royal jelly its antibacterial and antifungal properties and helps accelerate skin healing. You can get the benefits of royal jelly in an easy-to-use concentrate, using the knowledge of moder n science as applied to ancient medical practice. Skin Actives brings the benefits of very advanced biotechnology to

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your skincare products, including other ingredients that can be used to treat acneic skin, like granulysin and antioxidant proteins

n Hannah Sivak, Ph.D.

Dr. Hannah Sivak founded Skin Actives Scientific in 2006 to provide the best actives in the world at prices attainable to the consumer Dr Sivak completed her doctorate research at the Institute for Biochemistry Research in Buenos Aires under the direction of Dr L F Leloir (Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, 1970)

Dr Sivak has published more than 60 papers inter nationally, included in refereed journals and books, on different aspects of biology, biochemistry, molecular biology, and biotechnology She was a Research Fellow at the Universities of York and Sheffield in the United Kingdom from 1980–1990 and Professor of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology (Research) at Michigan State University from 1990–2002 She retired from academia in 2002, and now consults as a scientific advisor while overseeing for mulation for Skin Actives Scientific.

Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur: A Cold-Processable, Upcycled, and Reduced Odor Sulfur as an Effective Choice for Acne Treatment

Cristina Abbastante (Aurorium)

Sulfur is a key ingredient in the treatment of acne, seborrheic der matitis, dandruff, and other skin conditions due to its potent antifungal, antibacterial, and keratolytic activity. Not only has sulfur been proven to help treat acne and reduce redness, but it is also an optimal choice for consumers with sensitive skin who are not able to use other traditional treatments such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid

There are currently some challenges with using standard sulfur in the personal care industry For example, the largest obstacle of for mulating with sulfur is the not-so-subtle odor of rotten eggs. Sulfur also does not easily disperse into water without the addition of added solubilizers, multistep processing, high-speed mixing, and homogenization. Lastly, the environmental impact of mined elemental sulfur could cause groundwater contamination, leaching of heavy metals into the surrounding soil and water supply, and disruption of the natural geological for mations and ecosystems in the area Aurorium’s Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur is an innovative product that offers a unique combination of ~75% sulfur and 25% Acacia Senegal gum (derived from the sap of the Acacia Senegal tree) that offers potential efficacy for treating various skin conditions, including acne, redness, seborrheic der matitis, and dandruff Sulfur used in the production of Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur is upcycled as a byproduct of fossil fuels and can minimize the environmental impact of the petroleum industry. Upcycling sulfur not only significantly benefits the environment but also provides a creative approach to resolving the environmental stress created by sulfur byproducts

Using Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur is more convenient for for mulators as well. It offers ease of for mulation, better dispersions (cold-processed), and better aesthetics with significantly less odor than standard sulfur allowing for a more pleasant consumer experience. Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur has also been shown to significantly help reduce acne blemishes and whiteheads It reduced sebum and redness versus a placebo and showed no signs of irritation, scaling, or dryness A der matological assessment (IGA) resulted in 20% improvement versus baseline. Further more, we discovered that the addition of niacinamide to colloidal sulfur improved the overall appearance of blemished skin and worked twice as fast as benzoyl peroxide in reducing redness. This combination also showed a 22% reduction in sebum levels versus 12% with BPO The der matological assessment (IGA) showed an overall improvement of nearly 70% Further more, panelists preferred the results for overall appearance.

In summary, upcycled Sulfidal Colloidal Sulfur allows for cold-processed dispersions of sulfur with reduced odor in a for mula, making it a potential game-changer in topical treatments for acne, seborrheic der matitis, and dandruff.

Cristina Abbastante is an accomplished Senior Scientist in R&D at Aurorium with extensive experience and expertise in various aspects of personal care, including product development, R&D, and technical services She has collaborated with several multinational consumer products companies. Her proficiency extends across a diverse range of products, including haircare, skincare, and pet products Cristina holds a Bachelor of Science degree in both Chemistry and Biology from New Jersey City University, demonstrating her strong academic background

Addressing the Challenges of Oily Skin with a Cosmetogenomic Approach

Sally Hashemi and Michelle Yip (Seder ma, Croda Inc )

Oily skin is a widespread phenomenon; women, teenagers, and men alike seek to reduce and dissimulate shiny skin It is the result of relatively abundant sebum production by cells called sebocytes Sebum overproduction can often change other properties of the skin For instance, sebum traps dead skin cells as well as the bacteria that feed on these cells and multiply. This results in the clogging of pores and creates a hub of pro-inflammatory processes The skin then becomes covered with blemishes that may become more significant, which could affect one ’ s quality of life and overall well-being.

Sebuless is a powder extract obtained by plant cell culture of Syringa vulgaris known as the common lilac This concentrated lilac (Syringa vulgaris) was clinically tested on nor mal human sebocytes and after only one month of treatment, Sebuless reduced hyperseborrhea and decreased by half the number of inflammatory blemishes At 0 5% concentration, it provided a significant reduction in the following: sebum production, the number of active sebaceous glands, inflammatory blemishes (-48%), and red spots (38%) In vitro studies included the reduction of total lipid and pro-inflammatory lipid production in human keratinocytes, an increase in skin's anti-microbial peptide synthesis (cathelicidin and β-defensin 2) and the inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators of C acnes (TLR-2 genetic expression, IL-6, IL-8, PGE2, nitric oxide, reactive oxygen species) It normalizes the desquamation process by increasing the stratum corneum tryptic enzyme. Additionally, it reduces tyrosinase, melanin production, and melanosome transfer leading to the skin recovering its natural purity, providing a matte effect to the complexion as well as the prevention and fading of unsightly blemishes.

n Sally Hashemi

Sally Hashemi is the Business Development Manager for Sederma, Croda Inc. Beauty Actives Division She has over 20 years of experience in Sales, Marketing, Product Development, and R&D within the personal care and beauty industry. At Croda, she collaborates with the sales team to develop and create new projects with customers, and identifies new opportunities based on customers’ needs She is responsible for the business development activities across Canada and the Northeaster n United States She received her Bachelor of Science degree in Pure Chemistry from Tehran University in Iran and moved to Canada in August 2006 with prior inter national work experience in the Chemical Industry Sally and her two cats reside in Toronto, Canada. She enjoys cultural diversity, visiting art museums, and live music. Also, she is an artist and paints original pieces in her spare time She has a strong passion for animals and plants

n Michelle Yip

Michelle Yip is the Business Development Specialist for Sederma at Croda Inc. and has over five years of experience in the beauty industry She has a diverse background having roles in Marketing, Synthesis Development, and Sales Along with ACS accreditation, she pursued a Bachelor of Science degree in Chemistry from Stevens Institute of Technology She furthered her studies by obtaining a Master of Science degree in Chemistry with a concentration in Biomedicinal

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Chemistry from Stevens Institute of Technology At Croda, she collaborates with the sales team in the West Coast and Midwest regions to foster innovation and drive successful projects with key customers She has a passion for working with indie brands and sharing her expertise to help them grow and navigate the ever-evolving beauty landscape In addition, she loves to volunteer at local schools for STEM outreach to promote and inspire interest in STEM disciplines. In her spare time, she enjoys perfor ming in community theater, hiking, and finding the newest, trendy foodie spots!

Unlocking the Acne Microbiome

Patrick Gonry (Gobiotics-Ingredients)

Acne is a skin condition that is thought to be caused by an infection of C. acnes. The classic strategy to improve acne skin is to inhibit C acnes On the other hand, C acnes is also known to be a valuable protector of the skin. This creates a paradox as C. acnes seems to be pathogenic and protective at the same time

Through a metagenomics study of the skin microbiome, new insights have been discovered This metagenomics study not only reveals the evolution of the skin microbiome but also uncovers the activity of all the microbes and explains how all the different species communicate with each other The acne paradox will be explained, and we will share the discovery of how a dedicated inulin prebiotic solves the paradox.

n Patrick Gonry

Patrick graduated as a Chemical Engineer at the University of Ghent, Belgium in 1991. Afterwards, he completed an intensive specialization in cosmetic manufacturing and obtained a degree in Dermato-Cosmetic Science at the Medical University of Brussels In 2001, he started the consultancy company S&C, supporting cosmetic producers and raw material suppliers in product development, global legislation, and toxicology Through the years, he has trained many cosmetic chemists and technical sales representatives.

Since 2002 Patrick’s research and passion have been dedicated to the skin microbiota, which resulted in the launch of the first prebiotic ingredient dedicated to baby care and intimate hygiene He is the driving force behind many skin microbiota cosmetics in Europe Through his latest company, Gobiotics-Ingredients, he offers the industry scientific solutions to support skin microbiota claims. He is a deter mined scientist with concrete solutions and a heart for the invisible world on our skin

Understanding the Role of the Gut-Skin Axis in Acne-Prone Skin

Nicole Townsend, Ryan McLendon, Mike Weiser, and Giorgio Dell’Acqua (Nutrafol)

Acne vulgaris is an inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit, typically characterized by comedones, papules, and pustules on the skin surface Conventional solutions for acne care are topical interventions (e g , salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide) or oral pharmaceuticals (e g , isotretinoin) These interventions focus on treating a singular mechanism, such as hydrolyzing sebum in clogged pores, exfoliating, exhibiting antibacterial action, or inhibiting sebaceous gland function (systemic isotretinoin) Recent research has highlighted that the pathogenesis of acne is multi-faceted. Acne can be triggered by hormone fluctuations, stress response, and other lifestyle changes Diet and gut microbiome research have evolved and been implicated in the pathogenesis of acneic skin. Understanding the connection between gut health and skin health can elucidate the underlying, interconnected biological systems that influence the skin’s external expression of an inflammatory response associated with acne.

n Nicole Townsend

Nicole is a Research Manager for Nutrafol Research and Innovation She received her undergraduate degree in Biochemistry from Columbia University with

American Chemical Society recognition. Nicole has specialized expertise in hair and skin biology, microbiology, and nutrition, and has helped develop 2+ ingestible formulas and 4+ topical formulations, which are currently on the market

n

R yan McLendon is a Senior Research Associate for Nutrafol Research and Innovation. He received his undergraduate degree in Microbiology from University of Tennessee Knoxville and his Master of Science in Molecular Biology from Lipscomb University Ryan has helped Nutrafol in the areas of hair and skin biology, ingredient research, and claims substantiation.

Boosting Skin’s Defense Mechanism Through Phase II Detoxification

Christophe Gonindard, Hanane Chajra, Mathilde Frechet, and Nancy Bezies (Clariant )

When the skin is subjected to oxidative stress caused by toxins, hor mones, pollutants, or a rich diet, sebaceous glands containing sebocytes are activated Their metabolism leads to lipid synthesis, promoting sebum overproduction Skin’s detoxification process converts toxic compounds into non-toxic hydrophilic substances, which can then be easily eliminated However, this detoxification process is often not efficient enough, and results in the accumulation of toxins, triggering skin disorders. BioDTox enhanced the skin cell detoxification process by activating the Nrf2 pathway, which breaks down toxins, protecting against oxidative stress damage and repairing or limiting skin disorders

BioDTox regulated hyperactive sebocytes that produced excessive sebum both in a regular skin in-vitro model to mimic the effect of oxidative stress and in an acne-prone skin model additionally stressed by the polluted environment In clinical testing, BioDTox significantly has an immediate effect on sebum reduction and pore size

n

Nancy Bezies is the Business Development Manager for Clariant Actives and Natural Origins and has been working in the personal care industry for five years She holds a Chemical Engineering degree from Worcester Polytechnic Institute

Ryan McLendon

Nancy Bezies

NYSCC Scholarships

ROUMELIA ALINA INCLUSION AND DIVERSITY SCHOLARSHIP

Value-based scholarship awarded to applicants who exemplify hard work, perseverance, compassion, and collaboration in the advancement of inclusion and diversity initiatives

• Must be an undergraduate sophomore/ junior/senior or graduate student

• Must have a minimum of a 3.0 GPA.

• Must be enrolled in a B S or M S program related to cosmetic science

• Must submit a 500-1,000 word essay explaining why you feel you embody hard work, perseverance, compassion, and collaboration, while also incorporating inclusion and diversity into your everyday life/work

Award Amount: $5,000 (one-time payment)

GENERAL EDUCATION SCHOLARSHIP

Award for undergraduate and graduate students who wish to pursue a career in cosmetic science.

• Must be an undergraduate sophomore/ junior/senior or graduate student

• Must have a minimum of a 3.0 GPA.

• Must be enrolled in a B S or M S program related to cosmetic science.

• Must submit a 500 word essay about why the NYSCC should grant you a scholarship. What do you intend to do with your degree upon completion? Are you currently involved in any cosmetic science related initiatives, or do you plan to be involved in cosmetic related initiatives in the future?

Award Amount: $2,500 (one-time payment)

Deadline for submissions is July 15, 2023

FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY SCHOLARSHIP

Designed to encourage cosmetic scientists to start thinking about how the industry can address major sustainability challenges.

• Must be an undergraduate sophomore/ junior/senior or graduate student

• Must have a minimum of a 3.0 GPA.

• Must be enrolled in a B S or M S program related to cosmetic science.

• Must submit a 500-1,000 word essay identifying a common practice in the cosmetic industry that is a sustainability concer n and how you think this issue can be addressed by scientists and cosmetic organizations

Award Amount: $5,000 (one-time payment)

BOARD CHOICE SCHOLARSHIP

Created to inspire students to reimagine the future of the NYSCC. Awardee will be chosen based on a vote by our executive board.

• Must be an undergraduate sophomore/ junior/senior or graduate student

• Must have a minimum of a 3.0 GPA.

• Must be enrolled in a B S or M S program related to cosmetic science.

• Must submit one letter of recommendation

• Must submit a 1-3 minute video answering the following questions What is the most impactful thing the NYSCC has done for you? What suggestions do you have for the board to advance the chapter over the next 5 years? What do you plan to do with the scholarship money?

Award Amount: $7,500 (one-time payment)

NYSCC History Project ...Steve Herman NYSCC History Project ...Steve Herman

History of the NYSCC and CACPA

At this year ’ s Suppliers Day, the CACPA (Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association) sponsored a “Lunch and Lear n – From Ingredient Enthusiasts to Tik Tok: Catch China Beauty Trends.” They were also an exhibitor on the floor. This was the culmination of a 15-year relationship between the NYSCC and CACPA

The CACPA’s mission statements is: “CACPA is an independent and non-profit social organization that aims at promoting networking and knowledge sharing among the Chinese American community ” The CACPA was founded in 2000 by Dr Sue Feng, Dr T Wang, and Dr Xiaochun Luo By 2001 it had 35 members and by 2002 it had well attended meetings. In its early years it flew under the industry radar, holding member-only events CACPA developed a tradition of having a meeting in the evening of the first day of Suppliers’ Day. Brian Hom, who was Chair of the NYSCC in 2011 and 2012, was an active supporter of the CACPA The NYSCC in those years helped provide a meeting space and AV equipment near Suppliers’ Day, then in Edison, New Jersey, for their annual gathering

The event that cemented the relationship between the CACPA and NYSCC was the 1st U.S.-China Regulatory Symposium on May 16, 2013 a joint meeting with attendance well over 200. It was a full day program, but the undoubted highlight was a moderated Q&A with Jon Huntsman. Most significant for this meeting was Mr Huntsman’s service as U S Ambassador to China from August 2009 to April 2011 He was very popular in China as he spoke fluent Mandarin and had even spent two years early in his life as an LDS church missionary in Taiwan. The presence of Huntsman was such an attraction that SinoV ision covered the meeting and broadcast a report

Left to right: Brian Hom, Jon Huntsman, and Steve Her man at the 1st U.S.-China Regulatory Symposium on May 16, 2013

It was also in 2013 that the CACPA took the giant step of for malizing its organizational status by becoming a New Jersey nonprofit organization On February 19, 2014, a joint meeting with the CACPA was held at the China Bowl King restaurant in Edison, New Jersey, in honor of the Chinese New Year (The Year of the Horse). The speaker was Dr. Sue Feng of Revlon and 92 people attended.

Group portrait at the 1st U S -China Regulatory Symposium on May 16, 2013

At Suppliers Day in 2017, the CACPA presented an educational session on “Latest Trends of China’s Cosmetic Chemistry Sector.” During this session, the specialists from China shared contents about market dynamics and development trends of cosmetics, as well as supervision and management of cosmetic

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products and ingredients in China In addition, the CACPA enabled a delegation of 20 Chinese professionals to attend, helping with visa requirements and other logistical issues

The CACPA has evolved in the short time since receiving welcomed help from the NYSCC, transfor ming itself into a valuable collaborator and sponsor at Suppliers’ Day 2023 The ability of the CACPA to draw speakers who can offer unique insight into the world’s second largest economy will surely be of continuing value to the NYSCC’s educational goals

2023 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC infor mation, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org

• For National SCC infor mation: www.scconline.org

June 14 NYSCC Acne Care Symposium, Fairleigh Dickinson University, Florham Campus, Madison, NJ

July 24 Golf Outing, Crystal Springs, Hamburg, NJ

August 12 Fishing Trip, Atlantic Highlands, NJ

September 28 Culinary Event, Midtown Loft, New York, NY

December 11-13 SCC Scientific Meeting and Showcase, New York, NY NYSCC

CACPA’s booth at Suppliers’ Day 2023

NYSCC Fishing Trip

August 12, 2023 Atlantic Highlands, NJ

Boat Name: Mi-Jo Charter Organizer: Hani Fares • Cell number: 732-322-3100

Pricing: SCC Members – $110

Non-SCC Members – $120

Students/Unemployed – $60 Emeritus – $0

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Important details:

• Sailing time: 7:00 a.m. sharp. Please make sure you are on the boat by 6:45 a m NO EXCEPTIONS

• Retur n time: 2:00 p m

• Fish type: Fluke, sea bass (mostly bottom fishing).

• What to bring: Sunscreen, hat, shades, and great spirit.

• What is included: Food (breakfast, lunch, and snacks), drinks (water, soda, and beer) Please do not bring coolers or your own drinks Everything is supplied.

• Fishing gear: rod/reel/tackle and fish filleting are included

• Boat address: Atlantic Highlands Municipal Harbor, 2 Simon Lake Drive, Atlantic Highlands, NJ 07716.

Call for Papers

The Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical perfor mance of their choice Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor

Please send correspondence to: roger mcmullen@fdu.edu