Cosmetiscope May 2022 by NYSCC Webmaster

May 2022 • Vol. 28 • Issue 5

Your Destination for Science and Sustainability Solutions – Suppliers’ Day 2022 …Giorgio Dell’Acqua, 2022 NYSCC Chair

t’s showtime! I cannot wait to be reunited with our members, fellow chemists, and colleagues from all over the world at our 43rd Annual Suppliers’ Day and to see all your smiling faces! Suppliers’ Day, May 3rd-4th, “Your Destination for Science and Sustainability Solutions,” will bring the industry together for an enriching, experiential event filled with innovation, education, business-building, and fun. It will be North America’s most important ingredient and formulation event for creating, connecting, and collaboration opportunities. Kicking off our “Week of Beauty” will be SCC CEP courses on Monday, May 2nd, then May 3rd marks the official start with our ribbon-cutting ceremony featuring NYSCC leaders as well as association, scientific, and sustainability partners who helped us realize this edition of Suppliers’ Day. The event will feature more than 50 hours of curated educational programs, and 430+ global exhibitors showcasing novel ingredients, formulas, processing, advanced scientific testing equipment, and more. Specialty areas on the show floor include the Presentation Theater, INDIE 360º Pavilion, and the Future Chemists Workshop. New this year will be a Poster Presentations Showcase with the latest scientific findings and ingredients and formulation breakthroughs and our Mosaic Walls of clean and green innovators. With science and sustainability at the forefront, Suppliers’ Day offers a terrific learning experience with core programs on The Digital Age of Beauty, Discover Sustainability, and The World of Chemistry. Microbiome: Inside/Out Beauty will also be on the conference agenda along with a Lunch and Learn on Hair: Textured, Curly, Straight: What You Need to Know! The INDIE 360º program is back with brand founders sharing the innovative ingredients and formulations that make their products standout, discussing every angle of the business including the challenges, opportunities, and pathways to success. We are also excited to have a special INDIE Keynote on May 4th at 9:00 a.m., with a fireside chat between Noah Rosenblatt, President, Space NK and Kelly Kovack, BeautyMatters. Don’t miss what brand is selected for the People’s Choice (continued on Page 2)

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2022 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Stacey House chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Alex Blakeman treasure-elect@nyscc.org

Your Destination for Science and Sustainability Solutions

Award also on May 4th at 3:00 p.m. We have partnered again with IBA (Independent Beauty Association) who will participate in the INDIE 360º program as well as provide a Regulatory and Compliance Update. PCPC (Personal Care Products Council) also returns to present with IKW (German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association): Essential Elements of Cosmetic Regulation, Safety Assessment, and Quality Assurance. Our Scientific Committee will be at the helm of courses that take deep dives into In-vitro Modeling to Predict Clinical Outcome and Natural Colorants. Educating and supporting the workforce of the future is a paramount mission of the NYSCC and mentorship initiatives. In addition to mentors and mentees meeting at the event, which will be in full force at Suppliers’ Day, there will also be the popular Future Chemists Workshop and SCC co-sponsored Career Development Day. After the first day of the show, celebrate at our annual Industry Awards Night at Sony Hall. Finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award will be announced followed by plenty of food, drinks, and entertainment. Please read this issue of Cosmetiscope to see all that Suppliers’ Day has to offer, and visit www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day for the most current information during this Week of Beauty.

Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Susanna Fernandes advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

(continued from Page 1)

Scientifically yours, Giorgio Dell’Acqua Chair, NYSCC

P.S. Connecting with Suppliers’ Day continues virtually on Monday, May 9th with direct access to suppliers and select conference programming via your desktop and mobile devices.

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org 2

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Your Destination for Science and Sustainability Solutions Suppliers’ Day 2022 May 3-4 Jacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY General Information

Please refer to the information below to help answer some questions you may have about Suppliers’ Day 2022.

n REGISTRATION

North Concourse of the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Tuesday, May 3rd 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. • Wednesday, May 4th 8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

n SHOW HOURS

Exhibits are located in Halls 1A-B-C-D of the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center • Tuesday, May 3rd 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. • Wednesday, May 4th 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Conference presentations take place in meeting rooms on Level 1 in the corridor along the Exhibit Halls and adjacent to Aisle 100 on the expo floor. The show-floor Presentation Theater will feature specific tracks each day and then afternoon presentations by industry leaders, including select exhibitors. Be sure to review the highlights and make plans to attend and participate in these sessions.

MONDAY, MAY 2nd

SCHEDULE AT A GLANCE

9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

SCC CEP: Fundamentals of Microbiome for the Cosmetics Industry

Room 1C02

9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

SCC CEP: Cosmetic Color Additives: Regulations, Properties, and Processing

Room 1C03 (continued on Page 6)

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Schedule At A Glance

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TUESDAY, MAY 3rd

9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

Exhibit Opens

Halls 1A, B, C, D

9:00 a.m.

Ribbon Cutting Ceremony

Concourse

9:25 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.

NYSCC Scientific Advisory Course: In-vitro Room 1A02 Modeling to Predict Clinical Outcome – Part 1

begins here.

9:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

Discover Sustainability

Presentation Theater

Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care.

9:30 a.m. – 11:30 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.

Future Chemists Workshop

Room A121 – Expo Floor

10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.

Digital Age of Beauty

Room 1C02

10:00 a.m. – 1:25 p.m.

Microbiome: Inside/Out Beauty

Room 1C03

12:00 p.m. – 2:00 p.m.

NYSCC Mentorship: Lunch Mixer and Information Session

Room 1C04

12:15 p.m. – 1:15 p.m.

IBA – Regulatory and Compliance Update

Presentation Theater

1:30 p.m. – 4:30 p.m.

Innovations from the Exhibit Floor

Presentation Theater

9:00 p.m. – 1:00 a.m.

NYSCC Awards Night Ceremony

Sony Hall

BEAUTY

WEDNESDAY, MAY 4th 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.

Exhibit Opens

Halls 1A, B, C, D

9:00 a.m. – 9:45 a.m.

Keynote Presentation: Noah Rosenblatt, SPACE NK

Hall D – Center Stage

9:25 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.

NYSCC Scientific Advisory Course: In-vitro Room 1A02 Modeling to Predict Clinical Outcome – Part 2

9:30 a.m. – 10:30 a.m.

Member/Guest Breakfast

Room 1A04

9:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.

World of Chemistry

Presentation Theater

9:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

PCPC and IKW Present: Essential Elements of Cosmetic Regulations, Safety Assessment, and Quality Assurance

Room 1C04

9:30 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.

SCC and NYSCC Career Development Day

Room A121 – Expo Floor

10:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. NYSCC Scientific Advisory Course: Natural Colorants

Room 1C02

10:00 a.m. – 1:30 p.m.

INDIE 360°

Room 1C03

12:30 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.

Lunch and Learn – Hair: Textured, Curly, Straight? What You Need to Know!

Room 1A04

1:00 p.m. – 3:30 p.m.

Innovations from the Exhibit Floor

Presentation Theater

3:00 p.m.

People’s Choice Award: Showcasing the INDIE Innovator

Hall D – Food Service

N YS CC Co s metis c op e

www.nys c c .org

S P E C I A L

PROTAMEEN

E V E N T S

Special Events from NYSCC & Suppliers’ Day

NOT TO BE MISSED!

Supplier of specialty materials!

Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM

Suppliers’ Day Ribbon Cutting Ceremony

Indie 360º Pavilion – Back for 2022!

egin your Suppliers’ Day experience at the ceremonial Ribbon Cutting taking place on Tuesday, May 3rd at 9:00 a.m. Join NYSCC Board Members, as well as industry executives who have partnered with NYSCC to bring the very best in technical and scientific thought leadership to the event. Also present will be those who have led the charge in thinking green and sustainable! Join us as we kick-off 2022 as “Your Destination for Science & Sustainable Sourcing Solutions!” ____________________________________________________________

eatured here will be brands that relied on innovative ingredients that are in demand by consumers! These brands will be featured along with Supplier Sponsors and Accelerator programs that are driving INDIE expansion. Be sure to visit and take part in the People’s Choice Award of INDIE 360º participants: attendees at Suppliers’ Day will have the opportunity to vote for the brand that they feel is a game changer for 2022! The Pavilion will be in Hall D/Special Events Hall of the expo.

People’s Choice Award will be announced on Wednesday, May 4th at 3:00 pm in Hall D/Food Service Area. Co-Sponsored by

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A leading supplier of unique specialty cosmetic ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry

Barnet Products | 201-346-4620 www.barnetproducts.com

S P E C I A L

E V E N T S

University Row – Aisle 100 of Suppliers’ Day

ooking for advanced programs…or perhaps a degree to enhance and further your career? Then you need to visit Univeristy Row—participants have included:

Fairleigh Dickinson University

FIT – State University of New York

Manhattan College

Rutgers University

University of Cincinnati

University of Toledo

____________________________________________________________

New For 2022: Poster Sessions @ Suppliers’ Day Daily: 10:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. • 2:00 p.m. – 3:30 p.m.

ew for 2022! Peer-reviewed presentations will take place in our Poster Presentation Pavilion in Hall D/Special Events Hall of the expo. Scheduled session times will ensure optimal engagement.

Topics will include: sunscreen, clean and green, sustainability, and so much more! ____________________________________________________________

NYSCC Mentorship Lunch Mixer and Information Session

NYSCC’s Industry Awards Night

Tuesday, May 3rd • 9:00 p.m. – 1:00 a.m. at Sony Hall

his must-attend staple celebration takes place on Opening Night at Sony Hall. The eight finalists of the CEW Beauty Creators Supplier’s Award – Ingredients/Formulations Category will be announced here! Come celebrate the innovators in our industry and then plan to visit them on the Expo Floor the next day! Tickets are limited. Visit nyscc.org/suppliers-day to learn more and secure your tickets! ____________________________________________________________

Tuesday, May 3, 2022, 12:00 p.m. – 2:00 p.m. Co-Moderators: Ava Atri and Mary Fendelander, Co-Chairs – NYSCC Mentorship

uppliers’ Day will be the venue for this Mentor/Mentee meetup driven by the robust database that matches these formulations/product development specialists. The program will also include a presentation by a cosmetic leadership coach who will surely assist participants in establishing and cultivating meaningful relationships! 12:00 p.m. – 12:30 p.m. Welcome – NYSCC Mentorship Lunch Mixer and Information Session Ava Atri and Mary Fendelander, Co-Chairs – NYSCC Mentorship Program 12:30 p.m. – 2:00 p.m.

Get Results: More Coaching, More Thinking, Less Telling Jena Kinney – Master Certified Insight Coach and Speaker

N YS CC Co s metis c op e

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S P E C I A L

E V E N T S Discover sustainable, plant-based solutions for skin, hair, shower, and color cosmetics.

go.ingredion.com/beauty go.ingredion.com/beauty

Future Chemists Workshop

Tuesday, May 3rd • Room A121 Session 1: 9:30 a.m. – 11:30 a.m. • Session 2: 1:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m. Moderator: John Carola, Chair – Future Chemists Workshop Presenter: Sharonda Newsome, Research Assistant, URS

here will be two sessions of this NYSCC Suppliers’ Day staple that solidly supports the NYSCC’s mission of education in cosmetic chemistry. Sponored by

____________________________________________________________

Member/Guest Breakfast

Wednesday, May 4, 2022, 9:30 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. Moderator: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Chair – NYSCC

alling all SCC MEMBERS: bring a guest and encourage them to join…and you both will be entered for a chance to win a trip to the SCC Technical Symposium in Los Angeles! Mark your calendars and plan to join us! ____________________________________________________________

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Responsible Beauty Always a better solution. Barentz is an environmentally conscious personal care ingredients & specialty chemical supplier with sustainability in mind. www.barentz-na.com

S P E C I A L

E V E N T S

SCC and NYSCC Career Development Day Wednesday, May 4, 2022, 9:30 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.

oin the Society of Cosmetic Chemists for its 3rd Annual Career Development Day to be held in conjunction with NYSCC Suppliers’ Day. As an attendee, you’ll be able to meet and talk with representatives from colleges and universities who specialize in cosmetic science education as well as connect with employers in the cosmetics and personal care industry who offer internships and/or looking to hire entry level positions. We’ll also have speakers throughout the day on various topics of interest in your cosmetics and personal care career development path, designed to give you the edge in your job search! Co-Sponsored by

____________________________________________________________

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Virtual Experience Monday, May 9, 2022, 8:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.

ant more? Mark your calendar for Monday, May 9, 2022. Join us at this immersive experience with the feeling you are entering the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City! You will have a 360° degree view of the actual exhibits and expo floor as well as content—all accessible from your desktop or mobile device. All exhibitors are taking part—and all registered attendees will receive a link to the exhibits, special programming, and more! Get the content you may have missed… it will feel like you are actually attending! Virtual Event Sponsor ____________________________________________________________

2022 Media and Education Partners Include

N YS CC Co s metis c op e

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P R O G R A M M I N G

TUESDAY, MAY 3, 2022

Part 1 • In Vitro Modeling to Predict Clinical Outcome (for Part 2 see page 17)

9:25 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1C04 In vitro models have been the staple of technology development as well as a tool for mapping mechanistic understanding of skin biology. Their complexity has evolved over time to become quite predictive of clinical outcomes. In vitro modeling is a powerful solution for driving product development, innovation, and claim substantiation, and it allows researchers to screen technologies as well as position them against new or novel mechanisms. The purpose of this mini-symposium is to present various in-vitro models currently available to our industry using a cross section of speakers from both academia, industry suppliers, and testing firms. Lunch voucher included with registration. 9:25 a.m. – 9:30 a.m.

Welcome Michael Anthonavage, Vice President – Operations and Technology, Eurofins CRL, Inc.

9:30 a.m. – 10:05 a.m.

Genetically Engineered 3D Skin Models for the Development of Cosmetic Products and Pharmaceutical Drugs Research Focus: Human 3D Tissue Models Arevik Mosoian, Chief Scientific Officer, SkinAxis LLC

10:05 a.m. – 10:40 a.m.

Testing the Skin’s Innate Immune Response via In-Vitro and Non-Invasive Clinical Testing Methods Vincent Gruber, Director of New Technologies, Jeen International

10:40 a.m. – 11:15 a.m.

Bioequivalence Efficacy Test for Sunscreens: Alternative SPF Test Methods Validation Eduardo Ruvolo, Director – Clinical and Scientific Affairs, Beiersdorf

11:15 a.m. – 11:50 a.m.

Skin Barrier and Hydration: Solutions from in Silico and In Vitro Testing to Clinical Bioanalysis and Imaging Frederic Dubor, Head of Business Development, QIMA Life Sciences

11:50 a.m. – 12:25 p.m.

The Interest of Sensorial Evaluation in Cosmetics: Integration of the Sensory Neuron Compartment on Unique In Vitro Models Elodie Gras Lavigne, Head of Neurodermatology, Neuron Experts Remy Steinschneider, Neuron Experts

12:25 p.m. – 1:00 p.m.

In Vitro Studies of Skin Deposition and Permeation and their Practicality Jeff Wu, Neoventech

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P R O G R A M M I N G

TUESDAY, MAY 3, 2022

Discover Sustainability

On the Suppliers’ Day Show Floor Presentation Theater – COMPLIMENTARY

9:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

Moderator: Tom Branna, Vice President/Editorial Director, HAPPI The theme of the NYSCC’s programming for 2022, sustainability and ethical sourcing, is represented in this program track. Containing quick, but powerful presentations focusing on green beauty, the state of sustainability, and certification, this is a must-attend staple at Suppliers’ Day. Session sponsored by

9:30 a.m. – 9:35 a.m.

Welcome – Discover Sustainability Tom Branna, Vice President/Editorial Director, HAPPI

9:35 a.m. – 9:55 a.m.

Innovating for a Circular Economy in the Cosmetic Industry Monica Becker, Director; Beauty, Personal Care, and Household Products; Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute

10:00 a.m. – 10:20 a.m.

Impact of a Plant-Based Biopolymer on Sustainability Kimun Park, Lead Applications Scientist, Croda, Inc.

10:25 a.m. – 10:45 a.m.

Waterless Bōshi Beauty – Formulating with Nanofibers Laura Frazier, Chief Scientist, TaikiUSA

10:50 a.m. – 11:10 a.m.

The SDGs – Goals Towards Sustainability, Health, and Wellbeing Brian Grady, Sr. Marketing Specialist, DSM Personal Care

11:15 a.m. – 11:35 a.m.

Successful Skin Care Products featuring Natural Ingredients: A Technical Perspective Howard Epstein, Director – Techical Services, EMD Electronics, Surface Solutions

11:40 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

Natural Calcium Carbonate – A Sustainable and Multifunctional Solution for Oral Wellness Products Jason Nesta, Market Development and Innovation Manager, Omya, Inc.

12:00 p.m. – 12:05 p.m.

Wrap Tom Branna, Vice President/Editorial Director, HAPPI

N YS CC Co s metis c op e

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P R O G R A M M I N G

TUESDAY, MAY 3, 2022

Digital Age of Beauty

10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1C02 This Suppliers’ Day staple will focus on key strategies and innovations that influence product development and speed to market as well as digital tools that drive, measure, and analyze consumer engagement and the demands they set forth, including AI, VR, and more. Lunch voucher included with registration. Session sponsored by

10:00 a.m. – 10:05 a.m.

Welcome James Weatherall, Global Vice President, SpecialChem

10:05 a.m. – 10:25 a.m.

How Tech is Transforming Transparency in Beauty Sarah Jindal, Senior Director – Beauty and Personal Care, Mintel

10:30 a.m. – 10:50 a.m.

Artificial Intelligence and Upcycled Cosmetic Ingredients Joseph Dallal, Ashland LLC

10:55 a.m. – 11:15 a.m.

The Good Face App – Where Consumers Drive R&D Dana Lucas, Director of Product and Partnerships, The Good Face Project

11:20 a.m. – 11:35 a.m.

Coffee Break

11:35 a.m. – 11:55 a.m.

An Innovation Platform for the Next Generation of Beauty Iva Teixeira, CEO, The Good Face Project

12:00 p.m. – 12:20 p.m.

Automated Solutions for High Output Research and Development Across the Personal Care Industry Zachary Weinstein, Sr. Automation Chemist, Chemspeed Technologies, Inc.

12:25 p.m. – 12:45 p.m.

How to Adapt to the Digitalization Boom in the Cosmetics Industry James Weatherall, Global Vice President, SpecialChem

12:45 p.m. – 1:00 p.m.

Wrap James Weatherall, Global Vice President, SpecialChem

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P R O G R A M M I N G

TUESDAY, MAY 3, 2022

Microbiome: Inside/Out Beauty

10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1C03 As microbiome and biogenetic technologies continue to dominate the landscape, this program offers different expert perspectives and insight on microbiome health and how understanding the culmination of all environmental exposure to the body faces from birth onward, known as the exposome, impacts new product development. Lunch voucher included with registration. 10:00 a.m. – 10:05 a.m.

Welcome Sarah de Szalay, R&D Director, Femtec

10:05 a.m. – 10:25 a.m.

Probiotic Derived Ingredient for Skin Microbiota Care Stephania Zanzottera, Roelmi HPC

10:30 a.m. – 10:50 a.m.

Formulating Cosmetics for the Skin Microbiome Fanny Coste, Owner, Cosmebiome, Ltd.

10:55 a.m. – 11:15 a.m.

Deciphering Skin Longevity Biomarkers Using Targeted Proteomics Approaches Martin Baraibar, Oxiteno Proteomics, Sorbonne University

11:20 a.m. – 11:35 a.m.

Coffee Break

11:35 a.m. – 11:55 a.m.

The Skin Microbiome and Cosmetics – Myths and Facts Kristin Neumann, MyMicrobiome AG

12:00 p.m. – 12:20 p.m.

Recovering a Healthy Microbiota to Tackle Dry Scalp and Flakes Mathias Fleury, Head of Category – Actives, Givaudan Active Beauty

12:25 p.m. – 12:45 p.m.

A New Kit to Collect Remotely Skin Microbiome Samples for Research and Product Innovation Elsa Jungman, Founder and CEO, ELSI Skin Health

12:50 p.m. – 1:10 p.m.

Skin Trust Club and Skin Microbiome Personalization David Caballero-Limo, Head of R&D, Skin Trust Club Colin O’Sullivan, Chief Information Officer, Labskin – Skin Trust Club James O’Sullivan, Chief Technology Officer, Labskin – Skin Trust Club

1:15 p.m. – 1:25 p.m.

Wrap Sarah de Szalay, R&D Director, Femtec

N YS CC Co s metis c op e

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P R O G R A M M I N G

TUESDAY, MAY 3, 2022 Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com

Future Chemists Workshop

here will be two sessions of this NYSCC Suppliers’ Day staple that solidly supports NYSCC’s mission of education in cosmetic chemistry. Sponored by

____________________________________________________________

Participating Colleges and Universities Include:

Thank you to our sponsoring supplier companies: Ashland Centerchem Dewolf

DSM Evonik Glenn Corp. Hallstar

Jarchem Katonah Chemical Seppic

Thank you to our sister chapters for their support:

FLSCC

MIDATLANTIC SCC

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SWSCC

P R O G R A M M I N G

TUESDAY, MAY 3, 2022 SPECIAL PRESENTATION: IBA – Regulatory and Compliance Update On the Suppliers’ Day Show Floor Presentation Theater – COMPLIMENTARY 12:15 p.m. – 1:15 p.m. What you need to know from the FDA for 2023! A must attend session presented by Independent Beauty Association.

w w w.validatedcs.com 400 Frank W. Burr Blvd. Suite 105 Glenpointe Atrium Teaneck, NJ 07666

Kenneth Marenus, Executive Director, IBA Sharon Blinkoff, Senior Counsel, Locke Lord LLP Craig Weiss, President, Consumer Product Testing Co., Inc. Session sponsored by

Part 1 • Innovations from the Exhibit Floor

On the Suppliers’ Day Show Floor Presentation Theater – COMPLIMENTARY

1:30 p.m. – 4:45 p.m.

Moderator: Addison Caine, Beauty Strategy and Innovation Manager, SPATE Be sure to review all sessions listed. Here you will learn and experience the innovations and solutions provided by Suppliers’ Day exhibitors. Sessions are free, but seating is limited! Presenting companies for today include: Ashland | Nagase | McKinley Resources/Normactive | Micro Powders 1:30 p.m. – 2:00 p.m.

Welcome and Review of the Innovations and Solutions from the Expo Floor Addison Caine, Beauty Strategy and Innovation Manager, SPATE

2:00 p.m. – 2:25 p.m.

Key Building Blocks for Brands Going Clean and Green While Delivering Innovation to Conscious Consumers Yvon Pascal, Head of Botanicals, Croda, Inc.

2:30 p.m. – 2:55 p.m.

NAGASE Presents John Kaplan, NAGASE Specialty Materials

3:00 p.m. – 3:25 p.m.

Upcycled, Natural Active for UV and Hair Color Protection Condreda Presley, Specialty Raw Materials, McKinley Resources Sedef Kalayci, Director – Sales and Marketing, Normactive

3:30 p.m. – 3:55 p.m.

Using Novel Natural Fine Wax Powders for Boosting SPF and Enhancing Aesthetics in Organic and Inorganic Sunscreen Formulations Diana Smith, Director – Global Sales, Personal Care, Micro Powders Inc.

4:00 p.m. – 4:25 p.m.

SPECIAL PRESENTATION: Sustainable Skin Actives through Biotechnology Stephen Herman, Scientific Advisor, Sino Lion USA

4:30 p.m. – 4:45 p.m.

Wrap Addison Caine, Beauty Strategy and Innovation Manager, SPATE

N YS CC Co s metis c op e

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P R O G R A M M I N G SILAB creates and manufactures unique, consistently safe, natural active ingredients with proven efficacy.

WEDNESDAY, MAY 4, 2022

You need more information about our products? Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.: email: silabinc@silabinc.com phone: 732-335-1030

engineering natural active ingredients

Part 2 • In Vitro Modeling to Predict Clinical Outcome 9:25 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1C04

In vitro models have been the staple of technology development as well s a tool for mapping mechanistic understanding of skin biology. Their complexity has evolved over time to become quite predictive of clinical outcomes. In vitro modeling is a powerful solution for driving product development, innovation, and claim substantiation, and it allows researchers to screen technologies as well as position them against new or novel mechanisms. The purpose of this mini-symposium is to present various in vitro models currently available to our industry using a cross section of speakers from both academia, industry suppliers, and testing firms. Lunch voucher included with registration. 9:25 a.m. – 9:30 a.m.

Welcome Michael Anthonavage, Vice President – Operations and Technology, Eurofins CRL, Inc.

9:30 a.m. – 10:05 a.m.

Advanced Delivery Modeling Techniques – A Runway to Success Gabriella Baki, Director of Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design/Associate Professor, University of Toledo Mark Chandler, President, ACT Solutions Corp.

10:05 a.m. – 10:40 a.m.

Scalable in Silico Simulation for Human Total Body Exposure Prediction Using In Vitro Transdermal and Respiratory Tract Permeability Assays Ralf Geiben Lynn, Director of Business Development, Cyprotex US, LLC

10:40 a.m. – 11:15 a.m.

In Vitro Model Challenges for Skin Lipid Measurements in the Clinic Apostolos Pappas, Consultant, Entrinsic Bioscience Inc.

11:15 a.m. – 11:50 a.m.

Creation of the Most Sophisticated 3D Bioprinted Full Skin Models with Immunization, Pigmentation, Vascularization, and Oil Function to Advance Cosmetics Efficacy Testing Colin McGuckin, CTIBIOTECH

11:50 a.m. – 12:25 p.m.

Diabetic Skin: A New Target for Cosmetic Products Fred Züilli, Business Development Director, Mibelle Group Biochemistry

12:25 p.m. – 12:55 p.m.

Latest Advances in Tissue Engineering: From Normal to Compromised Skin David Boudier, Scientific Support Manager, SILAB

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 4, 2022

World of Chemistry

Show Floor Presentation Theater

9:30 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.

Session sponsored by

9:30 a.m. – 9:35 a.m.

Welcome Judi Beerling, Technical Director, Pertech Associates Ltd.

9:35 a.m. – 9:55 a.m.

How is the Market for Personal Care Ingredients Recovering from COVID and What Will Be the “New” Normal? Sunanda Desai, Vice President, Chemicals Practice

10:00 a.m. – 10:20 a.m.

Fermented Beauty, The Future of Sustainable Cosmetics Fanny Coste, Owner, Cosmebiome Ltd.

10:25 a.m. – 10:45 a.m.

Taking Advantage of Electrostatic Interactions for Unprecedented Skin Moisturising Mathias Fleury, Head of Category – Actives, Givaudan Active Beauty

10:50 a.m. – 11:10 a.m.

Overview and Perspectives for the Brazilian Cosmetic Market Paulo Sevilha, President, ABC

11:15 a.m. – 11:35 a.m.

Current Status of the Color Cosmetic Segment in China Mabel Huang, Vice President of R&D, Carslan

11:40 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

A New Frontier for Sustainable Palm: Blockchain Technology Bring Full Transparency to Consumers Margaret Fenwick, Head of Sustainability and Communications, BASF

12:05 p.m. – 12:15 p.m.

Wrap Judi Beerling, Technical Director, Pertech Associates Ltd.

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 4, 2022 PCPC and IKW: Essential Elements of Cosmetic Regulation, Safety Assessment, and Quality Assurance 9:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1C04

Explore what’s next with IMCD experts at imcdus.com.

Moderator: Jay Ansell, Vice President – Cosmetic Programs, Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) Lunch voucher included with registration.

9:30 a.m. – 9:35 a.m.

Welcome Jay Ansell, Vice President – Cosmetic Programs, Personal Care Products Council (PCPC)

9:30 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.

U.S. Cosmetics Regulation Jay Ansell, Vice President – Cosmetic Programs, Personal Care Products Council (PCPC)

10:00 a.m. – 10:30 a.m.

Cosmetic Labeling Joanne Nikitakis, Senior Director, Cosmetic Chemistry, Personal Care Product Council (PCPC)

10:30 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.

Cosmetic Safety Birgit Huber, Deputy Director General, The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery, and Detergent Association

11:00 a.m. – 11:30 a.m.

GMPs Cathleen Owen, Director – Pharmaceutical and Personal Care, Services – Q Labs

11:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

Panel Discussion All participants will engage in a lively and open dialogue! Session co-sponsored by

Thank You To Our Wifi Sponsor Look for the Suppliers’ Day 2022 network, and select to obtain high-speed internet access, compliments of Clariant. M ay 202 2

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 4, 2022

Indie 360º

10:00 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1C02 Lunch voucher included with registration. 10:00 a.m. – 10:05 a.m.

Welcome Luciana Coutinho, Principle, luluble

10:05 a.m. – 10:30 a.m.

What’s Happening in the INDIE Market? Trends and Forecasts Lan Vu, Founder and CEO, BeautyStreams

10:35 a.m. – 11:20 a.m.

Panel of Founders Deanna Utroske, Business Content Specialist, Beauty Insights Panelists: Brent Ridge, Co-Founder, Beekman 1802 Sandra Velasquez, Founder, Nopalera Stephanie Lee, Founder, SELFMADE

11:25 a.m. – 11:40 a.m.

Coffee Break

11:45 a.m. – 12:10 p.m.

IBA: Update on Supply Chain Issues Akemi Ooka, Head of Global Supply Chain Resources, Independent Beauty Association (IBA) Shannon Hess, Director – Responsible Sourcing, Burt's Bees Tony Hoth, Supply Chain Consultant, The Complete Package

12:15 p.m. – 12:40 p.m.

Leveraging Corporate Accelerators to Spur Greater Inclusion in Personal Care Kate Drummond, Head of Marketing, BASF Corporation

12:45 p.m. – 1:10 p.m.

Advertising 101: Best Practices for Marketing Ingredient/Product Benefits Ronie Schmelz, Partner, Tucker Ellis

1:15 p.m. – 1:30 p.m.

Wrap Luciana Coutinho, Principle, luluble

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 4, 2022

Natural Colorants

10:00 a.m. – 12:10 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1C02 Lunch voucher included with registration. 10:00 a.m. – 10:05 a.m.

Welcome Mythili Nori, Sr. Scientist – Performance and Claims, BASF Corp.

10:05 a.m. – 10:30 a.m.

Peclers Paris Colors, Natural Colorants: A SocioCultural Review Nicole Lannan, Business Development Manager, Peclers Paris

10:30 a.m. – 10:55 a.m.

Diversity of Color in Nature Art Georgalas, Founder, Georgalas Endeavors, LLC

11:00 a.m. – 11:15 a.m.

Coffee Break

11:15 a.m. – 11:40 a.m.

Where Biology and Cosmetic Science Meet Yelena Loginova, Technical Director, Mana Products Maria Stadler, Vice President – Product Development and Marketing, Mana Products

11:45 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

Wrap Mythili Nori, Sr. Scientist – Performance and Claims, BASF Corp.

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Hair: Textured, Curly, Straight? What You Need to Know! 12:30 p.m. – 2:30 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1A04 Lunch voucher included with registration. 12:30 p.m. – 12:40 p.m.

Welcome Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Chair NYSCC

12:40 p.m. – 12:55 p.m.

Suspend Simply and Sustainably with Structured Surfactant Systems in Your Formulations Brian Yang, Applied Technology Manager, Evonik

12:55 p.m. – 1:10 p.m.

Embracing Curls and Coils: A Textured Hair Journey Andrew Miller, Marketing Manager – Hair, Body and Oral Care, BASF Corp. Mythili Nori, Sr. Scientist – Performance and Claims, BASF Corp.

1:10 p.m. – 1:25 p.m.

A Synergistic Combination of TCM Mushroom and Saccharides for Heat Protection of Hair Fibers Marcia Paula, Sr. Global Category Director – Haircare, Symrise

1:25 p.m. – 1:40 p.m.

The Restorative Routine for Textured Hair Charlie DeStefano, Business Development Manager, BeautyCare, Solvay

1:40 p.m. – 1:55 p.m.

Naturally Durable Hair Styling – A New and Novel Sustainable Styling Technology David Streuli, Principal Scientist – Aerosol Technologies, Ashland LLC

1:55 p.m. – 2:10 p.m.

Fundamental Understanding of Highly Textured Hair through Technical Investigation and Social Listening for High Performance Solutions Aimed at Natural Textures Mary Kay Crofoot, Technical Service and Development Scientist, Dow

2:10 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.

Wrap Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Chair NYSCC

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 4, 2022

Part 2 • Innovations from the Exhibit Floor

On the Suppliers’ Day Show Floor Presentation Theater - COMPLIMENTARY

12:30 p.m. – 3:15 p.m.

Moderator: Addison Caine, Beauty Strategy and Innovation Manager, SPATE Be sure to review all sessions listed. Here you will learn and experience the innovations and solutions provided by Suppliers’ Day exhibitors. Sessions are free, but seating is limited! Presenting companies for today include: Bitop | Sun Chemical | 3V Sigma | 707 Flora 12:30 p.m. – 1:00 p.m. Welcome and Review of the Innovations and Solutions from the Expo Floor Addison Caine, Beauty Strategy and Innovation Manager, SPATE

1:00 p.m. – 1:25 p.m.

BITOP Presents Anne Schroette, BITOP

1:30 p.m. – 1:55 p.m.

Sustainability by Substrate: A Comparison of Natural Vs. Synthetic Mica Amy Ethier, Global Regulatory Lead – Cosmetics, Sun Chemical

2:00 p.m. – 2:25 p.m.

A Strange Love: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters Matthew Zoeller, Applications Manager – Specialty Division, 3V Sigma USA

2:30 p.m. – 2:55 p.m.

SPECIAL PRESENTATION: Canna Skin Science Joan Sutton, Founder, 707 Flora

4:30 p.m. – 4:45 p.m.

Wrap Addison Caine, Beauty Strategy and Innovation Manager, SPATE

Make Plans to Join the Scavenger Hunt and Win! Be sure to download the Suppliers’ Day mobile app while on-site, then visit all exhibitors and special areas on the hunt...and be entered to win:

FREE REGISTRATION/TRAVEL TO THE IFSCC CONGRESS IN LONDON September 19-22, 2022

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o Join the INDIE 360º Pavilion Participants at Booth No. 2017!

Visit with all innovators in the pavilion and then cast your vote for the 2022 People’s Choice Award. You must download the mobile app to participate. The winner will be announced on Wednesday, May 4th at 3:00 p.m. in Hall D/Food Service Area.

CandaScent Labs

CandaScent Labs is an olfactory health and wellness brand that delves into the science of aroma to deliver its therapeutic benefits. All of our products feature fresh and sophisticated aromas that are formulated for scent and effect. They are 100% botanically powered, free of synthetics, and contain anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients. Our hero ingredient, Beta-Caryophyllene, is the only aromatic molecule known to interact with our CB2 receptor for homeostasis and is included in all our formulations. Launched a little less than a year and a half ago, CandaScent Labs introduced its wellness candles and has expanded the lineup to include Botanical Mists. This year, we plan to introduce diffusing blends and a nebulizer.

Dr Lili Fan Probiotic Skincare

With years of research and development in the making, our clinical skincare is based on three simple ideas: clean formulas, green ingredients, and functional products that deliver the desired results. The sole intention for Dr. Lili Fan Probiotic Skincare is to create a safe, high-performance regimen that works for all ages and skin types. The formulas are free of parabens, sulfates, glycols, phthalates, petroleum minerals, and oils. It is the first professional line of anti-aging products formulated to harness the power of vegan probiotics and our patented peptides to give you firmer, smoother, and younger-looking skin.

High on Love

HighOnLove is a woman-owned line of premium self-care, beauty, and intimacy products designed to take your pleasure to new heights. Formulated by women, HighOnLove reminds us that self-care and sexual wellness are crucial for living a healthy, happy life. From blissful bath oils to luxurious massage candles, each product is crafted in small batches to ensure the highest quality. HighOnLove’s Stimulating Oil and Gel are known to be transformative for those experiencing discomfort or decreased libido, helping women around the world reclaim their pleasure. Follow HighOnLove on Instagram at @highonlove.official, or on Facebook at @HighOnLoveOfficial.

I-on Skincare

Excess iron is known to produce oxygen free radicals that cause the visible signs of skin aging. Revolutionary beauty brand i-On Skincare’s patented DII Technology is the only cosmetic product on the market to remove excess iron from the surface of the skin and inhibit the formation of free radicals.

LAMIK

LAMIK Beauty is a tech-enabled clean color cosmetics company focused on women of all diverse skin tones. We support and celebrate women in all of their glory. We are building an inclusive community for women across the country by creating the highest quality products with the purest ingredients. 24

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Malibu Apothecary

Malibu Apothecary is a clean, destination-inspired fragrance company, handcrafting luxury candles and perfumes. From Malibu to the Mediterranean, explore scents reminiscent of exotic locales traveled by Founder Claire Ellis, capturing vacation through fragrance. Sustainably-sourced ingredients and essential oil-infused scents benefit coastal conservation to support Malibu Apothecary's mission: Clean Fragrances for a Cleaner Coast.

Onekind

Your healthiest skin is our priority. Onekind is thoughtfully-crafted skincare for all made with only good-for-you ingredients. Our award-winning solutions are always developed and tested by industry experts with the input of our community. Onekind is Leaping Bunny certified cruelty free and proudly female and LGBTQ+ owned and operated.

PRIORI Adaptive Skincare

Through innovative skin complexes, our “super hero” ingredients, PRIORI's proprietary science delivers to each individual skin the perfect combination of actives it needs in real time. Fewer products, better performance, and personalized for every skin type. This is the coming together of biotechnology and skincare. Adaptive formulas for your most luminous skin.

Redmint

Redmint's exceptional range of skincare collections are infused with potent botanicals documented in ancient Traditional Chinese Medicine herb books. These extraordinary herbs are Yin nourishing, Qi uplifting, and Yang regenerating; powering topical superfood that help renew skin’s microbiome, revive elasticity, replenish moisture levels, and restore a natural, lasting glow.

Shielded Beauty

Shielded Beauty is the first-ever safety-first skin care brand focusing on defending and strengthening your microbiome from today’s environmental assault. A clean beauty breakthrough in microbiome-fortifying skincare, their award-winning product line fuses natural antimicrobial ingredients, probiotic and moisturizing actives to protect and treat your skin’s microbiome.

Sunrise Session

Sunrise Session is single-use, waste-free self-care that disappears and leaves no trace behind. From our biodegradable packaging to our ethos driven practices, Sunrise Session is committed to freeing humans from their plastic obsession with single-use remedies that power the present and protect the planet.

Touch in Sol

Restore enjoyment in your makeup and skincare routine with advanced formulations, textures, and finishes to delight your senses and skin. Experience solution-oriented products with a multisensorial touch. Reveal the unique beauty that’s always yours. K-Beauty innovation at its best.

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NYSCC Awards Night Ceremony May 3rd • 9:00 p.m. – 1:00 am.

Announcing the Eight Finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Awards: Ingredients and Formulation

Sony Hall, 605 W 48th Street, New York, NY

he NYSCC will be hosting its 6th Annual Awards Night Ceremony at our new venue location, Sony Hall, in the heart of Times Square, New York City on Tuesday, May 3rd from 9:00 p.m. – 1:00 a.m. with a very special #throwback production to celebrate the NYSCC’s most memorable entertainment performances. The evening includes a cocktail reception to connect and network with industry colleagues and includes complimentary beverages and hors d’oeuvres. A highlight of the evening will be the announcement of the eight finalists of the prestigious CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award for innovative Ingredients and Formulations. More than 30 submissions were reviewed by an elite panel of judges from major brands to determine the eight finalists. The 2022 judges are:

JUDGES

Judges (left to right): • Toussaint Jordan, Senior Global Marketing Manager, L’Oréal • Eileen Kim, Head of US Innovation and Research Prospective Team, Chanel • Ron Robinson, Founder and CEO, BeautyStat.com • Mike Wong, Chief Science Officer, Orveon (bareMinerals, Buxom, Laura Mercier) • Tao Zheng, Director – Advanced Technologies/Material Science, The Estée Lauder Companies The judges will also select the winner of this CEW Beauty Creators Award, which will be announced at the CEW ceremony honoring all winners of its Beauty Creators Award on November 11th at the Ziegfeld Ballroom. Proud sponsors of the NYSCC Awards Night Ceremony include: HAPPI, Jarchem Innovative Ingredients, and Sun Chemical. Tickets for this not to be missed event are $115 in advance and $150 at the door. For more information go to: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/awards-nyscc-2022/

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S SAVE THE DATE FOR 2023 SUPPLIERS' DAY 2023 MAY 2-3, 2023 JACOB K. JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER NEW YORK CITY

NYSCC.ORG/SUPPLIERS-DAY

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NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium June 30, 2022 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. The Palm House, Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Brooklyn, NY

oin us for an intellectually stimulating day chock-full of interesting facts and findings about the world of natural ingredients with respect to personal care products. This event will be held at the alluring Brooklyn Botanic Garden, a serene location connecting attendees with the plant world and fostering a sense of stewardship of the environment. In this first symposium of its kind, the NYSCC will have lectures and interactive sessions that address sustainability, biodiversity, green products, biodegradability, and many other aspects of natural ingredient science.

Agenda:

9:00 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.

Registration

10:00 a.m. – 10:10 a.m.

Opening Remarks

10:10 a.m. – 10:40 a.m.

Antioxidants, Stem Cells, and the Thymoquinone Story – Bo Michniak-Kohn (Rutgers University)

10:40 a.m. – 11:10 a.m.

History of Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics – Roger L. McMullen (Fairleigh Dickinson University and Ashland LLC)

11:10 a.m. – 11:20 a.m.

Break

11:20 a.m. – 11:50 a.m.

Beyond the Usual Suspects: What’s the ‘Next Big Thing’ of Bioactive Phytochemicals from Cannabis for Skin Protective Effects? – Hang Ma (University of Rhode Island)

11:50 a.m. – 12:20 p.m.

Why There is So Much Buzz About Retinol and Retinol-like Products? – Ratan K. Chaudhuri (Sytheon)

12:20 p.m. – 1:50 p.m. 1:50 p.m. – 2:20 p.m.

Lunch and Poster Session What are the Main Challenges of Replacing Ingredients by Sustainable Alternatives in Cosmetics? – Joana Marques Marto (University of Lisbon)

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2:20 p.m. – 2:50 p.m.

A Novel Unique Technology to Develop Cosmetic Ingredients Inspired by Plant-Associated Microbiome: Phytofermentology – Isabelle Imbert (Ashland LLC)

2:50 p.m. – 3:50 p.m.

Garden Tour

3:50 p.m. – 4:20 p.m.

Marine Biotechnology at Nautilus Biosciences Croda – Russell Kerr (University of Prince Edward Island and Nautilus Biosciences Croda)

4:20 p.m. – 4:50 p.m.

Development of Naturally-Derived Silicone Ionic Gel – Mana Tamami (Momentive)

4:50 p.m. – 5:00 p.m.

Closing Remarks

To register, go to the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

n NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium Committee • • • • • •

Roger L. McMullen (Ashland LLC) – Chair Raymond B. Clark (Ashland LLC) – Assistant Chair Gopinathan Menon (California Academy of Sciences) – Scientific Advisor Tao Zhang (Estée Lauder) – Scientific Advisor/Moderator Vincent Gruber (Jeen International Corporation) – Scientific Advisor/Moderator Neelam Muizzuddin (Skin Clinical Research Consultants) – Scientific Advisor/Moderator

n Acknowledgement

Thank you to the NYSCC Scientific Committee for their efforts in putting this program together.

n Bus Service to Brooklyn Botanic Garden

The NYSCC is offering complimentary bus service to Brooklyn Botanic Garden for this event. There will be two buses (Raritan Valley Bus Service) departing from New Jersey at 7:30 a.m. the day of the event. The two pickup locations are: • Edison, NJ. Parking lot behind Harold’s New York Deli: 3050 Woodbridge Avenue, Edison, NJ. • Paramus, NJ. Garden State Plaza: Between Chili’s and Hanna Krause’s Home Made Candies store. Corner near service road. Buses will depart Brooklyn Botanic Garden at 5:00 p.m. and return to their respective locations in New Jersey. Contact Bret Clark at rbclark@ashland.com to reserve your seat on the bus. Please indicate the location (Edison or Paramus) where you plan to board the bus.

n Event Location

• The Palm House, Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 1000 Washington Avenue, Brooklyn, NY • Parking – Attendees who would like to drive to the event can park in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden parking at: 990 Washington Avenue, Brooklyn, NY.

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

Antioxidants, Stem Cells, and the Thymoquinone Story

Bo Michniak-Kohn

here are a large variety of natural ingredients for cosmetic applications known in the scientific literature. Commonly used ingredients comprise herbs, minerals, vitamins, antioxidants, essential oils, enzymes, and hormones that have become increasingly more popular in cosmetic and personal care products. Plant stem cells are another natural source that is gaining enhanced popularity 30

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in the cosmetic field.1 Plant stem cells have been shown, for example, to possess outstanding anti-aging properties and can (among other activities) stimulate fibroblasts to regenerate skin. It has been found that one of the most active compounds in the extracts is kinetin (6-furfuryladenine), a cytokine and a strong antioxidant, which prevents oxidation and glycoxidation of nucleic acids and proteins in skin enabling cells to remove excess free radicals which offers protection from oxidative stress.2 Some of the work in the Michniak-Kohn research group3,4 involves the use of thymoquinone, a quinone-based phytochemical that is the main active in Nigella sativa (black cumin seeds). It has been shown to possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-neoplastic properties. In a recent study, Haq et al. used polyvinylpyrrolidone matrix-type films to deliver thymoquinone to human skin samples and wounds in vitro in a human cell model and in vivo in mice.4 The group found that the novel thymoquinone films provided significant antibacterial properties and excellent wound closure activity as compared to Gentamycin Sulfate Cream USP. References 1. S. Trehan, B. Michniak-Kohn, and K. Beri, Plant stem cells in cosmetics: current trends and future directions, Future Sci. OA, 3(4): FSO226 (2017). 2. M. Miastkowska and E. Sikora, Anti-aging properties of plant stem cell extracts, Cosmetics, 5, 55 (2018); DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics5040055. 3. A. Haq and B. Michniak-Kohn, Effects of solvents and penetration enhancers on transdermal delivery of thymoquinone: permeability and skin deposition study, Drug Deliv., 25(1): 1943-1949 (2018). 4. A. Haq, S. Kumar, Y. Mao, F. Berthiaume, and B. Michniak-Kohn, Thymoquinone loaded polymeric films and hydrogels for bacterial disinfection and wound healing, Biomedicines, 8, 386 (2020); DOI: 10.3390/biomedicines8100386.

n Bozena B. Michniak-Kohn, Ph.D.

Dr. Bozena B. Michniak-Kohn is a tenured Professor of Pharmaceutics at the Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy, and Founder/Director of the Center for Dermal Research CDR (NJCBM) at Rutgers – The State University of New Jersey, Piscataway, NJ. Her main focus is topical, transdermal, and buccal drug delivery. Dr. Michniak-Kohn has over 40 years of experience in the design and optimization of topically applied formulations and transdermal patches. She received her B.Sc. (honors) in Pharmacy and Ph.D. in Pharmacology from the U.K. Dr. Michniak-Kohn has directed over 60 Ph.D. and Masters students and the work resulted in over 170 peer-reviewed manuscripts, over 470 abstracts, 4 books, and 38 book chapters. She is a member of 10 journal editorial boards, several scientific advisory boards, member of Board of Trustees at TRI-Princeton, and is a reviewer for over 50 pharmaceutical and drug delivery journals. For this work she was awarded Fellow status of the American Association of Pharmaceutical Scientists (AAPS) in 2008. Websites: www.centerfordermalresearch.org and www.michniaklab.org. ___________________________________________________________________________

History of Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics

Roger L. McMullen

atural ingredients have been used in cosmetic products since antiquity. The early Egyptians were renowned for their makeup preparations and other cosmetic ingredients used to cleanse and scent the body. The most common cosmetic potions consisted of eye paints, facial paints, oils, and solid fats (ointments).1 As an example, kohl is a paste/powder that was commonly used as eye shadow and is reported to have been made with galena ore, which contains lead sulfide. A paste made from malachite, a green ore of copper, was also used to color the eyes of Egyptians. Many of the skin preparations were applied to skin and hair to protect them from harsh radiation from the Sun. Hair and nail dyeing in ancient Egypt was achieved using henna, which was extracted from the plant, Lawsonia inermis. Henna was also popular in ancient India and China as a hair dyeing agent. In India, henna was also used to paint designs on the hands and feet in the art known as mehndi.2 The Egyptians were also very astute on the use of fragrances. They used many different types of herbs and oils, such as aloe, chamomile, lavender, myrrh, olive oil, peppermint, sesame oil, and thyme.3 Turmeric, a traditional Indian spice from the root of Curcuma longa, was commonly used in Ayurvedic (continued on Page 32) medicine as a therapeutic agent. It contains curcumin, which has anti-inflammatory

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properties. In recent years, turmeric has become an extremely popular cosmetic ingredient for skin care preparations. In traditional Chinese culture, skin was treated with oils and herbs. Panax ginseng is one of the most popular ingredients in ancient herbal therapy, and still widely used today. Rice powder was also popular and used to paint the face, serving as a form of makeup that provided a whitish appearance and had the benefit of removing excessive oils. The use of nail polish dates back to ancient China, using egg whites, flowers, and beeswax.4 Unfortunately, only royalty and the upper echelon of society were permitted to paint their nails. In this presentation, we will provide an overview of the history of natural ingredients in cosmetics presenting a balanced approach to the contributions of various civilizations, both East and West, to the current state of our knowledge. References 1. A. Lucas, Cosmetics, perfumes, and incense in ancient Egypt, J. Egypt. Arch., 16(1/2): 41-53 (1930). 2. M. Nayak and V. Ligade, History of cosmetics in Egypt, India, and China, J. Cosmet. Sci., 72: 432-441 (2021). 3. S. Chaudhri and N. Jain, History of cosmetics, Asian J. Pharm., 3(3), 164-167 (2009). 4. N. Madnani and K. Khan, Nail cosmetics, Indian J. Dermatol. Venereol. Leprol., 78: 309-317 (2012).

n Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.

Dr. Roger McMullen has over 20 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is a Principal Scientist at Ashland, LLC and leads their Material Science team. Roger has over 30 publications in peer-reviewed journals and textbooks. He is also the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition and founded the online news magazine The Cosmetic Chemist (www.thecosmeticchemist.com). Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University. Roger actively engages and participates in educational activities in the personal care industry. He frequently teaches continuing education courses for the SCC and TRI-Princeton. In addition, Roger is an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry. Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U.S. Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48). He is fluent in Spanish and Catalan and currently is learning to play the classical guitar.

Beyond the Usual Suspects: What’s the ‘Next Big Thing’ of Bioactive Phytochemicals from Cannabis for Skin Protective Effects? ___________________________________________________________________________

Hang Ma

ioactive cosmeceutical ingredients containing phytochemicals from cannabis have attracted immense research interest and consumer popularity. While the vast majority of published studies on the skin beneficial effects of cannabis have primarily focused on its major non-psychedelic phytocannabinoid, namely, cannabidiol (CBD), there is a paucity of data on the skin protective effects of other bioactive compounds in cannabis. Apart from CBD, cannabis contains a wide spectrum of bioactive phytochemicals including numerous minor cannabinoids (e.g., cannabigerol and cannabichromene) and non-cannabinoids compounds such as flavonoids and stilbenes. It is possible that these bioactives collectively contribute to the overall skin protective effects of cannabis. Herein, our group has initiated a research program to systemically investigate the biological effects of phytochemicals including minor cannabinoids and non-cannabinoids from cannabis using a panel of in-house in vitro based bioassays. In particular, we use human immune cells (THP-1 monocytes) and skin cells (keratinocytes), respectively, to evaluate the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of cannabis compounds. Data from our current study revealed that several minor cannabinoids including cannabigerol (CBG), cannabigerolic acid (CBGA), and cannabidivarin (CBDV) showed promising anti-inflammatory 32

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effects by reducing levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines including interleukin-1 and tumor necrosis factoralpha in THP-1 cells. In addition, minor cannabinoids and flavonoids from cannabis showed superior antioxidant activity in human keratinocyte HaCaT cells as compared to CBD. In addition, our laboratory evaluated the physicochemical properties (including solubility and skin permeability) of several active minor cannabinoids, which are critical for their future development as cosmeceutical ingredients for skincare products.

n Hang Ma, Ph.D.

Dr. Hang Ma is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences at the College of Pharmacy of the University of Rhode Island (URI) and the Associate Director of Bioactive Botanical Research Laboratory at URI. Dr. Ma received his Master’s and Doctoral degrees in Pharmaceutical Sciences in 2011 and 2014 from URI, respectively. He has over 15 years of research experience in the field of natural products chemistry. His research interests include phytochemical and biological investigations of natural products from medicinal plants and functional foods for their therapeutical, nutraceutical, and cosmeceutical applications. Dr. Ma has co-authored over 80 original peerreviewed research articles, one review article, and one international patent. He is a member of the editorial board of several scientific journals including Cannabis and Cannabinoids Research and Journal of Cannabis Research. ___________________________________________________________________________

Why There is so Much Buzz About Retinol and Retinol-like Products?

Ratan K. Chaudhuri

ith so many doctors and ingredient suppliers on a hunt for the next big antiaging product, why does Retinol still have so much appeal? The answer, many dermatologists say, is simple: it works. Retinol is a defined molecule, not an extract, and has over 30 years of solid science behind it. Its effect is demonstrated on a molecular level and validated by multiple clinical studies. Retinol addresses all major skin care issues, reverses aging signs, protects skin from further damage, controls pigmentation, and improves skin problems, such as acne. If you do a Google search for “Retinol Products,” you obtain 49 million hits. If it is so well studied and works so well, why isn’t everyone using Retinol? Well, nothing in this world is perfect. Retinol is nowhere close to being a perfect solution and has many inherent drawbacks. Chief among them include: lack of photostability; problems with chemical stability in formulated products; difficulties in formulation; and the fact that regular use causes skin irritancy, sensitivity, dryness, and scaling. Can you imagine the potential of a product with all the major benefits of Retinol but none of its chief drawbacks? If you do a Google search for “Retinol-like Products,” you get 30 million hits. You can easily understand why ingredient suppliers are so eager to claim new products (extracts or blends) as Retinollike, always taking very minor functional attributes of Retinol. Let us look at the criteria one should consider when making such a claim. Since Retinol has a wide range of activity, a comparative genomic/ transcriptomic molecular signature profile of Retinol and Retinol-like compounds makes a good starting point. Modulation of key genes requires validation by rtPCR study along with cell-based studies, like ECM protein boosting, enzyme inhibitory activity, anti-inflammatory activity, hydration, and the list goes on. Multiple studies now firmly establish that Bakuchiol (purity >99.5%) isolated from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia can match or even exceed retinol for its preventative and restorative anti-aging benefits as well for its management of skin disorders such as acne and hyperpigmentation. Moreover, unlike Retinol, Bakuchiol is well tolerated on skin (less stinging, burning, and scaling) and is free of complications resulting from skin photosensitivity and from chemical instability in finished formulations. Finally, head-to-head comparison to retinol in clinical studies validated true skin benefits of Bakuchiol. All these benefits have fueled worldwide appeal and excitement around Bakuchiol as a natural alternative to Retinol and has prompted the launch of numerous commercial products onto global markets. Although use of Bakuchiol in skin care will not entirely fulfill the quest for eternal youth, it may (continued on Page 34) bring it just one step closer.

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n Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D.

Ratan K. Chaudhuri is the first employee, President, and CEO of Sytheon, which he founded in 2006. Sytheon is an innovative global specialty ingredient company growing over 50% annually (www.sytheonltd.com). Sytheon’s global headquarters is located in Parsippany, New Jersey, USA with its European affiliate in France and Asian affiliate in Singapore. Ratan is a humble entrepreneur by heart and a strategic thinker with strong leadership skills. He has developed numerous best-in-class products for the personal care industry. Two of his most recent introductions are Sytenol A (INCI: Bakuchiol) and Synovea HR (INCI: Hexylresorcinol), which he developed with an incredible team. Ratan holds over 100 U.S. and international patents, and is the author of over ninety publications and six book chapters. Prior to starting Sytheon, Ratan held technical management positions at EMD Chemicals (Merck KGaA) and ISP Chemicals (Ashland LLC) in the USA.

What are the Main Challenges of Replacing Ingredients by Sustainable Alternatives in Cosmetics? ___________________________________________________________________________

Joana Marques Marto

ustainability, the ability of something to maintain itself, has been increasingly debated over the years especially concerning the limited availability of natural resources. Not a long time ago, people still thought that the world’s resources were infinite and easily accessible, and could be unlimitedly used for several purposes, including in the creation of businesses. Obviously, this also applies to the cosmetics industry, where there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable cosmetics, with the concomitant need to establish different criteria regarding the sourcing and selection of raw materials. Initially, there was a transition from synthetic to natural and organic formulations, but currently producers also consider the responsible and ethical sourcing of ingredients as well as fair-trade. However, the process of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in cosmetics is challenging. With this in mind, this talk aims to clarify how to make such a replacement and still obtain appealing and high-quality products, and highlight how sustainable ingredients can contribute to a more eco-conscious cosmetic product.

n Joana Marques Marto, Ph.D.

Joana Marques Marto received her M.Pharm. from the Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Lisbon (FFUL) in 2010. She started her professional career in the Portuguese pharmaceutical company, Laboratórios Atral. To further develop her career, she started her Ph.D. research work in January 2012 and obtained a doctoral degree in Pharmacy, specifically in the area of Pharmaceutical Technology, from the University of Lisbon in March 2016. She has been a qualified safety assessor of cosmetic products since 2012 with certification by Vrije Universiteit Brussels. From 2016 to 2019 she also worked as a researcher in Laboratório Edol – Produtos Farmacêuticos, S.A. Since 2017, she has been an integrated Ph.D. researcher in the Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa) and currently is also an Assistant Professor at FFUL. Since the beginning of her career, Joana Marto’s main research interests have been the development of medicines and cosmetics for topical application and the development of new drug delivery systems under the perspective of Quality by Design (QbD). Further, she has always focused on transposing fundamental research to applications (in the market). While developing her career, she strengthened this by transferring the knowledge of Pharmaceutical Technology to the market and society, developing medicines available for hospitals and the pharmaceutical industry. She coordinates and is an active participant in projects mainly financed by the industry. Currently, Joana is the supervisor of one Ph.D. and several M.Sc. students, with several of these co-supervised by researchers from hospitals and from the pharmaceutical industry. Joana Marto has published 71 scientific papers, 5 book chapters, two national patent applications, and has more than 100 communications at scientific meetings. She was 34

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awarded several national and international prizes related to her scientific research and community services. She can be reached by e-mail at: jmmarto@ff.ulisboa.pt. ___________________________________________________________________________

A Novel Unique Technology to Develop Cosmetic Ingredients Inspired by Plant-Associated Microbiome: Phytofermentology

Isabelle Imbert

ike humans, plants possess their own microbiome playing a key role in plant health and reproductivity. The phytobiota is a “signature” of a plant linked to the plant species, the plant part, its geographical origin, and environmental pressures. The plant microbiome is important to consider in botanical sourcing and extract development as it influences phytocompound profiles and potential biological activities. A new biotechnology process called phytofermentology has been recently developed using the plant and its own microbiome as a natural factory. This 100% natural process is an auto-fermentation using only the natural plant microbiome (called the phytobiome) and without the addition of external ferments. This new green technology was developed with the objective to keep alive the phytobiomass and to create powerful extracts by spontaneous fermentation processes. Our research has demonstrated the potential of this new technology to help deliver natural extracts with potent phytomolecules creating a unique signature composition. Phytofermentology can be adapted to different type of plant parts including flowers. Recently, several extracts, including a Jasminum grandiflorum flower extract, were developed using this technology. Interestingly, analytical profiles obtained from plant extracts that were processed with preserved living microbiota, revealed enriched phytocompounds profiles versus classical extraction methods. This new biotechnology process was developed to reach one step further in the search for natural ingredients, delivering unique and innovative skin benefits.

n Isabelle Imbert, Ph.D.

Dr. Imbert joined Ashland LLC in 2007 through the company’s acquisition of Vincience in Sophia-Antipolis, France. She holds a Ph.D. in Molecular and Cellular Biology from the University of Montpellier (Institute of Human Genetics, CNRS, Montpellier, France). Dr. Imbert specialized in cancer research for her post-doctoral studies at St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital in Memphis. In 2001, she joined the cosmetic industry. Her main research interest consists of adapting the latest findings in the fields of biology and molecular sciences to the cosmetic industry. Since 2011, Dr. Imbert has held a global role in Ashland focusing on the development of innovative skin care technologies and concepts for biofunctionals. She is currently leading the R&D facilities for Biofunctionals and Naturals in Sophia-Antipolis, France. Part of her role consists in supporting Ashland’s biofunctional sustainability program by promoting local biodiversity and ethical sourcing. She frequently publishes in scientific and cosmetic journals on innovative research related to the development of Ashland biofunctionals. Dr. Imbert is a member of the Society of Investigative Dermatology, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and French Society of Cosmetology. She can be contacted by e-mail at: iimbert@ashland.com. ___________________________________________________________________________

Marine Biotechnology at Nautilus Biosciences Croda

Russell Kerr

arine natural products (MNPs) are proving to have enormous value in a diversity of industry sectors. Organisms from diverse phylogenetic groups including sponges, corals, and tunicates, as well as bacteria and fungi, have proven to be excellent sources of bioactive natural products. While MNPs have found application in the pharmaceutical sector for the last few decades, MNPs have more recently been applied to actives in nutraceutical and personal care products. Nautilus is engaged in a program of discovery of bioactive agents for a variety of applications using its in-house marine microbial library. The presentation will outline the strategy and process of bioactive natural product discovery at Nautilus Croda with a focus on personal care products. (continued on Page 36)

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n Russell G. Kerr, Ph.D.

Russ Kerr received his B.Sc. in Chemistry and his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Calgary, and subsequently worked as a post-doctoral fellow at Stanford University with Professor Carl Djerassi (the “Father of the Pill”). Kerr joined Florida Atlantic University in 1991 where he established a research group in the field of marine natural products. In 2003 he co-founded and became the Director of the Center of Excellence in Biomedical and Marine Biotechnology in Florida—a consortium of public and private universities, a not-for-profit research institute, the Smithsonian, and several biotechnology companies. He is a Professor, a Tier I Canada Research Chair in Marine Natural Products, and the Lévesque Chair in Marine Natural Products in the Department of Chemistry and the Department of Biomedical Sciences, Atlantic Veterinary College, University of Prince Edward Island with over 170 publications and 25 patents. He is the recipient of various national awards for research in the U.S. and Canada and has represented the State of Florida and the U.S. on various scientific and policy committees including the National Academy of Sciences, USA. He serves on the editorial boards of six journals and on the scientific advisory board of three biotech companies. In 2007 he co-founded Nautilus Biosciences Canada, a marine microbial biotech company focused on the discovery of novel natural products and other biomolecules. Nautilus was acquired by Croda in 2018 and Kerr now is a Research Fellow with Croda. Kerr also serves as the Chairman of the Board of the PEI BioAlliance, a not-for-profit organization focused on the development of the bioscience industry.

Development of Naturally-Derived Silicone Ionic Gel ___________________________________________________________________________

Mana Tamami

o address the increasing demand for natural ingredients in the personal care industry, we developed a naturally-derived silicone ionic gel as an alternative to traditional silicone elastomers. In our research, we designed a new blend of fatty acid modified silicone elastomer and plantderived hemisqualane. One of the key attributes of the blend is its natural origin index of 0.63. This technology enables formulators to prepare naturalized products with remarkable sensorial properties. Ionic silicone gel is used in skin care formulations, offering excellent hydrophilic compatibility, pigment dispersion, and clear formulations as compared to traditional silicone elastomers. For example, the ionic silicone has the unique ability of forming a hydrogel with different water/polyol systems, which opens up new avenues for creating a variety of textures without an emulsifier. Our research demonstrates a new world of possibilities in naturalized beauty across skin care, sun care, color cosmetics, and hair care applications using this type of technology.

n Mana Tamami, Ph.D.

Mana graduated with a Ph.D. in Polymer Chemistry from Virginia Tech in 2012. She began her career as a synthetic polymer chemist in the personal care business at Lubrizol where she led the development of new skin care and sun care ingredients. Then, Mana moved into the applications space where she created formulations to highlight the key features and benefits of new Lubrizol ingredients across various categories. In 2019, Mana joined Momentive where she is currently a Formulation Technology Group Leader for the personal care business. In this role she leads the development of impactful prototypes, which exemplify top performance of new ingredients. She focuses on directing global launch activities for Momentive’s natural technologies including natural emollients, natural elastomers, and natural powders. Mana also enjoys sharing her knowledge and experience with the new generation of cosmetic scientists by teaching a formulation course to Pharmaceutical Science students as an adjunct professor at Long Island University.

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2022 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org May 3-4 May 3

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY NYSCC Awards Night Ceremony – Sony Hall, New York, NY

June 16

NYSCC Boat Trip – Atlantic Yachts, Weehawken, NJ

June 30

Natural Ingredients Symposium – Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Brooklyn, NY

July 25 August 9

August 13 September 8

September 29 October 12

November 8

December 13-14

TBD

NYSCC Golf Tournament – Crystal Springs Golf Course, Hamburg, NJ Environmental and Social Impacts of Cosmetic Products – At Home Live – Virtual Event NYSCC Fishing Trip – Atlantic Highlands, NJ Sunscreens – The Latest Updates and the Impact on the Environment – Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ NYSCC Culinary Event – Natirar, Peapack and Gladstone, NJ Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity – Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY Scalp and Skin Microbiome – Novel Approaches to Formulate Gentle and Effective Products – Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase – L.A. Live JW Marriott, Los Angeles, CA NYSCC Supports Education Night – Stay tuned for information on our annual event

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