Cosmetiscope May 2020

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May 2020 • Vol. 26 • Issue 5

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Natural and Clean Cosmetics – The Science Behind the Ingredients …by Giorgio Dell’Acqua

n recent years we have seen an increase of simplified products with fewer ingredients in the cosmetic market. The marketing message of these products is often linked to the ingredient sourcing, functionality, and safety (including the absence of the socalled no-no ingredients). Labeled as clean beauty products, they often rely on natural ingredients that are compatible with the human body, biodegradable, often used in traditional medicine, and easily fit in the safety profile of the finished product. But what about efficacy? Is it possible to develop clean beauty products containing the purest and most ethically sourced natural ingredients and prove their efficacy with science? Today, technology and science are available for both developing natural extracts and testing them— demonstrating their safety and efficacy—while maintaining their positive image of clean, pure, eco-friendly, safe, and sustainablysourced. Technologies derived from the pharma and imaging industries are available at affordable cost and flexibility. Genomics, proteomics, and metabolomics techniques are now available to the cosmetic scientist as well as instruments able to quantify skin characteristics in a non-invasive way.1 In other words, it is finally possible to verify the scientific edge and efficacy of any natural or natural-derived ingredient.

Raw Materials – Minimal Processing

Raw materials sourcing from the sustainable supply chain are often linked to biological agriculture and sustainable harvesting from the wild. These raw materials seem to emerge in the food supply chain first. Initial markets are in the country of origin on a micro-scale (e.g., local green markets), which eventually leads to a macro-scale and industrialization step (larger distribution in retail space). Often commercialized at the continent level, they are eventually “discovered” in other continents and grown accordingly to meet their commercial and marketing appeal.

Example – Pomegranate Seed Oil

Pomegranate is sourced through a sustainable model and cold pressed oil is produced. Due to its unique and elevated level of omega fatty acids, such as conjugated linolenic acid and punicic acid (see Table 1), pomegranate seed oil is a strong antioxidant with demonstrated protection from UV-induced protein oxidation (carbonylation) and DNA damage.2 (continued on Page 4)

M AY 2 0 2 0 N Y S C C AT H O M E L I V E W E B I N A R S E R I E S See page 7 for May Agenda and Speaker Abstracts.


2020 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgino Macalino gmacalin@estee.com

Chair-Elect Susanna Fernandes fernandes.susie@gmail.com Treasurer Stephen Carter treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Mohamed Abdulla treasurer-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Sonia Dawson advisor@nyscc.org Program Maria Mo mo.maria.je@gmail.com By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Cathy Piterski cathy.piterski@givaudan.com Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

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Letter from the Chairman …Giorgino Macalino

t’s hard to believe how unpredictable 2020 has been so far, and while we may find it hard to plan for the future, PLANNING AND EXECUTING is what the New York Chapter has been doing as we endeavor to deliver education, expertise, and engagement through our newly-launched AT HOME LIVE Webinar Series. Launched in 10 short days, the program opened to hundreds of cosmetic chemists and product development executives participating in a Color Trends program presented by Amy G. Marshall of Eckart America Corporation. Additional live programs covering Hand Sanitizers, COVID-19, and Ingredients Trends followed, attracting more than 2,000 participants joining us from Latin America, UK, Europe, and more. This is incredible engagement and a testament to the technical expertise that has become a hallmark of NYSCC offerings. To complement these educational programs, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day has added a digital showcase—NYSCC’s Digital Pop-Up and Solutions Center—that will allow exhibitors and attendees to begin interacting and sourcing high performance ingredients and formulations. Kicking off this new initiative was a special Spate presentation on the Impact of COVID-19 on top trending ingredients that took place on May 5th, the original start date of Suppliers’ Day 2020. This presentation highlighted rising stars, which have been trending since the onset of the pandemic, and showcased others that have sustained growth and interest before COVID-19 and still continue to trend. Attendees were encouraged to learn more about these ingredients through the Suppliers’ Day interactive site (https://nysuppliers20.mapyourshow.com/8_0/#/) searchable database. If there is anything that we’ve grasped these last few weeks, it is that learning to adopt and adapt has certainly enabled many of our members to weather this storm! As a friendly reminder, Suppliers’ Day 2020 has been rescheduled for September 30 – October 1 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. Exhibitors have been relocated to their new booth space and we are working hard on programming and developing special features for this edition of the event. We stand with all of you as we await the next steps of “re-opening” the New York tri-state region. As we wait for those guidelines, we are still planning to present monthly virtual programs that address some of the hottest topics in product formulation, including: Skin Microbiome: Perspectives on Aging, Compromised Skin and Cosmetics (scheduled for June), and Sun Care Symposium (scheduled for August). Programs in the At Home Live series continue through the end of May, so be sure to visit https://nyscc.org/at-home-live-series/ for the latest calendar of online offerings. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day has joined the Go Live Together (www.golivetogether.com) initiative, which represents those involved in live events, including venues, contractors, event management teams, events, meetings, and travel associations. We know from working with this group that we will have our finger on the pulse of all that is happening and receive the most up-to-date information on how to effectively and safely get back to educating and engaging our members and participants from across the globe. We will share information as it becomes available and relates to our scheduled events. In the meantime, please stay safe, stay healthy, and stay in touch! We look forward to seeing you all soon!

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Natural and Clean Cosmetics – The Science Behind the Ingredients

(continued from Page 1)

Table 1. Omegas fatty acids and vitamin E composition of pomegranate seed oil.

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Omega-9

Omega-6

Omega-5

Tocopherols

12%

14.5%

65%

0.3 g/Kg

Further research highlighted the oil’s soothing properties such as inhibition of the inflammatory mediator lipoxygenase;3 but also its regenerating characteristics, such as the stimulation of keratinocyte growth.4

Raw Material – Extraction and Transformation in an Active Ingredient

Raw materials are often transformed into active ingredients for personal care applications. Specific extraction by using biodegradable and natural solvents produces ingredients with specific physicochemical characteristics and solubility for different cosmetic applications. Once ingredients are validated based on stability assays and scaled up, they can be tested for safety and efficacy in different models (in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical – non-animal).

Example – Fucoidan from Seaweed

Seaweed is rich in phenol derivatives and polysaccharides, which provide it with protective activity.5,6 Brown seaweed also contains a compound called fucoidan that assists with protection from marine pathogens. Fucoidan is a fucose-rich polysaccharide with anti-viral, immune modulating, and matrix metalloprotease inhibiting properties.7 By isolating fucoidan from seaweed, the formulator can use lower concentrations of the extract. These lower levels reduce the risk of incompatibilities and material setting, color issues, and scent—improving the overall stability.8 Recent research highlighted the scientific value of fucoidan as a skin soothing and regenerating agent as demonstrated by reduction of trans-epidermal water loss, decreased wrinkle depth, increased elasticity, and reduction of proteases.9

Conclusions

Natural and clean beauty products contain natural ingredients communicated through ethical sourcing and safety. Scientific tools allow us to analyze and test these ingredients for efficacy, therefore helping to select the correct ingredient concentration to add to the finished product for optimal functionality. Natural and clean beauty brands need to validate their ingredient efficacy through robust scientific testing and/or select their suppliers based on the scientific profile of their ingredient line. Natural ingredient efficacy must be performed using the highest scientific standards to validate their benefits for cosmetic applications. There is a clear need in the market for more science and credible claims.

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References

1. A. Rai, K. Saito, and M. Yamazaki, Integrated omics analysis of specialized metabolism in medicinal plants, Plant J., 90(4), 764-787 (2017). 2. F. Afaq, M.A. Zaid, N. Khan, M. Dreher, and H. Mukhtar, Protective effect of pomegranatederived products on UVB-mediated damage in human reconstituted skin, Exp. Dermatol., 18(6), 553-561 (2009). 3. S.Y. Schubert, E.P. Lansky, and I. Neeman, Antioxidant and eicosanoid enzyme inhibition properties of pomegranate seed oil and fermented juice flavonoids, J. Ethnopharmacol., 66(1), 11-17 (1999). 4. M.N. Aslam, E.P. Lansky, and J. Varani, Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical source: pomegranate fractions promote proliferation and procollagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in human skin cells, J. Ethnopharmacol., 103(3), 311-318 (2006). 5. I.P. Fernando, M. Kim, K.T. Son, Y. Jeong, and Y.J. Jeon, Antioxidant activity of marine algal polyphenolic compounds: a mechanistic approach, J. Med. Food, 19(7), 615-628 (2016).

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6. M.F. de Jesus Raposo, A.M. de Morais, and R.M. de Morais, Marine polysaccharides from algae with potential biomedical applications, Mar. Drugs, 13(5), 2967-3028 (2015). 7. J.H. Fitton, D.N. Stringer, and S.S. Karpiniec, Therapies from fucoidan: an update, Mar. Drugs, 13(9), 5920-5946 (2015). 8. G. Dell’Acqua, Sustainable ingredient science: brown algae, Cosmet. Toil., 128(4), 226-229 (2013). 9. J.H. Fitton, G. Dell’Acqua, V.A. Gardiner, S.K. Karpiniec, D.N. Stringer, and E. Davis, Topical benefits of two fucoidan-rich extracts from marine macroalgae, Cosmetics, 2(2), 66-81 (2015).

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Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.

About the Author…

iorgio is a cosmetic scientist and a consultant for the personal care industry. A graduate from the University of Rome, Italy, he worked for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research at Mount Sinai Medical School in New York and Harvard Medical School in Boston. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 20 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. He specializes in skin and hair care ingredients, finished product development, and technical marketing. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market and has authored more than 70 publications in medicine and cosmetic science. In the last 10 years he has been writing and lecturing on natural cosmetic ingredients, sustainable supply chain, and helped sourcing, developing, and bringing to market many natural ingredients. Some of his recent product development activity has focused on food byproducts in cosmetics, treatment of skin with prebiotics and postbiotics, and adaptogens for skin and hair care. He is an award-winning speaker on natural ingredients and a regular columnist on sustainability and cosmetic science. He is also the chair of the Scientific Committee for the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

NYSCC Sponsorship Opportunities The NYSCC Sponsorship Committee is proud to invite interested parties to sponsor NYSCC educational events throughout the year. Sponsorship Committee:

Yelena Zolotarsky (yelenazol@gmail.com) and Daphne Benderly (dbenderly@presperse.com) For more information, please visit: http://nyscc.org/sponsorship-opportunities/

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2020 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org June 16 Skin Microbiome: Perspectives on Aging, Comprised Skin and Cosmetics – TBD

August 12 Sun Care Symposium – Seasons Catering, Washington Township, NJ September 23 Color Cosmetics – Color Trend Forecast – Lightbox, New York, NY September 30 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Center, New York, NY – October 1 October 13 Effect Pigments Symposium – Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ November 18 Beyond Hair Care and Officer Installation – Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Brooklyn, NY

Skin Microbiome: Perspectives on Aging, Compromised Skin and Cosmetics June 16th December 15 NYSCC Mentor Mentee Mixer – New York, NY

For more information, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

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Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu. 6

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NYSCC At Home Live Webinar Series

n order to continue to provide educational content to our members during the COVID-19 crisis, the NYSCC has instituted the NYSCC At Home Live Series, which offers live webinars from industry recognized leaders. May 7

Green Chelation – Steve Herman

May 12

Desperately Seeking Synergy – Joseph Albanese

May 14

Fuel for Youth: Explore the Relationship Between Energy and Skin Aging – Catherine Centro

May 18

In Defense of Ethoxylated Emulsifiers – Ricardo Diez, Ph.D.

May 19

Tonal Comeback: Future Trends 2020 – Charnin Brown

Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care. GO

These are SCC-wide FREE webinars for all. To register, visit the https://nyscc.org/at-home-live-series/. ____________________________________________________________

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies Green Chelation

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– Steve Herman

Sodium Laur yllglucosiddes Hydrox ypropylsulfonate

n Steve Herman

Steve Herman is President of Diffusion LLC, a consulting firm specializing in regulatory issues, intellectual property, and technology development. He has been an Adjunct Professor in the FDU Cosmetic Science Program since 1993, teaching the Cosmetic Formulation Lab and Perfumery. He is currently teaching an online fragrance course for the University of Cincinnati. He also is an instructor for the Center for Professional Advancement. Steve was a columnist for GCI Magazine for (continued on Page 8)

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helating agents are ions or molecules that form coordination bonds with metal ions. In shampoos, cleaners, and other personal care products, EDTA salts are used as a sequestering agent to improve their stability. EDTA and its salts are the most common chelators because of their performance and affordability, but their manufacture, safety, and environmental fate are all problematic. A solution for modern “greener” formulations is the amino acid based chelates GLDA (tetrasodium glutamate diacetate) and MGDA (trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate). We will see the difference in feed stocks, production processing, waste and emissions, and impurities that make these materials far superior to EDTA. We will examine their biodegradation and chelating capacity. Finally, we will see the synergy in preservative efficacy using amino acid based ε-polylysine as an example.

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17 years and has written a book, Fragrance Applications: A Survival Guide. His SCC activities include service as Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1992 and 2013, election to Fellow status in 2002, and instructor in the Continuing Education Program. Steve currently serves as Scientific Advisor to Sino Lion USA. ____________________________________________________________

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Desperately Seeking Synergy – Joseph Albanese

t is often said that formulating cosmetics is part science and part art. With little challenge, chemistry is considered the premier science involved. Conversely, the mathematical science of statistics is not often invoked when discussing new product development or reformulating existing products. However, much can be learned by cosmetic chemists who use design of experiments (DOE) software to discover synergistic interactions of ingredients to optimize performance, minimize cost, lead to patent opportunities, and even possibly accelerate speed to market. Hopefully, “Desperately Seeking Synergy – An Introduction to the Ways and Means to Optimizing Cosmetic Formulations” will help get you on the road to discovery.

n Joseph Albanese

Siltech Corporation www.siltech.com sales@siltech.com

During his career in the personal care industry, Joseph Albanese worked for Avon, Shulton, and Colgate-Palmolive in both process and product development groups. Joe’s employment on the supply side of the industry included more than 12 years at GAF/ISP where he went from formulation chemist to manager of their Hair Care Applications-Technical Service laboratory. After many years in R&D, Joe transitioned into technical sales. Joe is a member of the first graduating class of FDU’s M.S. degree program in cosmetics. Joe has been a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists since 1984. Since then he served in many different positions within the organization including Secretary and then Chair of the New York Chapter. For many years, he was an Assistant Editor of the chapter’s monthly newsletter Cosmetiscope and authored technical articles for the same, winning the Best Paper Award for “Desperately Seeking Synergy”. He chaired multiple educational seminars for the NYSCC. He has presented technical talks to the NYSCC and other regional chapters across the country speaking on various topics such as cGMPs, rheology modifiers, sunscreens, and cold process emulsions. On the national level, Joe served a term as its Area I Director. In recognition of the many technical accomplishments in his career, as well as his many contributions to the SCC, Joe was honored to be among the first recipients of its Marketing Fellow of the Society award after being nominated by the Board of Directors. ____________________________________________________________

Fuel for Youth: Explore the Relationship Between Energy and Skin Aging

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– Catherine Centro

nergy always seems to be in short supply. Consumers recognize the need and value of energy in other aspects of daily life, whether it be to power through their day or to power on their smartphone. Learn more about what fuels our cellular batteries and the correlation energy has with skin and aging. See how change on the cellular level can correlate to noticeable improvements in skin firmness, tone, and elasticity.

n Catherine Centro

Catherine Centro is the Business Development Manager, Active Ingredients North America for Clariant International Ltd. During her career, Catherine has held both technical and commercial roles specializing in active ingredients for personal care. In previous roles, she authored numerous technical articles and directed new product development and substantiation testing for skin care. 8

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In Defense of Ethoxylated Emulsifiers – Ricardo Diez

ll ethoxylated emulsifiers have an internal ‘magic structure’ that make them very efficient and versatile for formulating a wide range of cosmetic emulsions. Along with soap, they remain the most widely used emulsifiers on a global basis. In the past few years, however, concerns about the presence of 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of the ethoxylation process, has generated in some sectors of the industry an overzealous ‘need to replace’ them with non-ethoxylated materials. Oftentimes, these alternative materials are not nearly as efficient or versatile. The fact remains that these ethoxylated emulsifiers contain very little 1,4-dioxane. In fact, when used at typical concentrations found in cosmetic emulsions, the result is a finished product containing 1,4-dioxane in the ppb range. Why do these materials have so little 1,4-dioxane in comparison to ether sulfates? What is the ‘magic structure’ that makes these materials so unique and difficult to replace? Why are they so important in the lamellar gel network model for emulsions? Join us to hear the answer to these questions.

n Ricardo Diez, Ph.D.

Ricardo Diez has worked in the cosmetic industry for more than four decades in R&D and product development positions in both consumer product companies (Procter & Gamble, Dial Corp, Chanel) and raw material manufacturers (Miranol, Stepan, Witco). He obtained several technology patents in both fields. He is currently an adjunct professor at Rutgers University in the Master of Business and Science, where he teaches a cosmetic science course. He also instructs courses at the Center for Professional Advancement. Until recently, he also taught courses for the IFSCC and the SCC. He is a member of the editorial board of China Detergents and Cosmetics. ____________________________________________________________

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Tonal Comeback: Future Trends 2020 – Charnin Brown

t these times of uncertainty, the one universal constant is color. Colors help people communicate both verbally and silently. Colors not only evoke emotion and feelings, but can also affect our mood as well as how we are perceived by others. When normalcy returns, these colors will continue to resonate and be crucial for a brighter future. In this presentation, the focus will be on shades of blue, green, yellow, and white in various textures of crème, frost, shimmer, chrome, metallic, and glitter. These multi-use hues and pigments can be broadly used in color cosmetics and nail lacquer.

n Charnin Brown

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Having worked in the cosmetic industry for over 15 years, Charnin has extensive knowledge in color cosmetics and nail lacquer. She started her career in product development working on the Sally Hansen, Borghese, and Elizabeth Arden Nail Care brands. After gaining her expertise in the private sector, she joined Verla International, a contract manufacturer as the Manager of Product Development working on multiple brands as well as managing the lab. Charnin is currently the Director of Product Development for Sandream Impact, where she is responsible for new ideas, concepts, and the new color development of specialty pearlescent pigments.

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