April 2020 • Vol. 26 • Issue 4
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Development of Color Products— From William Perkin to Urban Decay
ussian Red, 999, Ruby Woo, Pioneer, Androgyny, and No. 1. What do these words call to mind? Beauty product enthusiasts around the world recognize these iconic shade names currently inhabiting their purse. (The author tips her hat to the product developers and marketers at Dior, MAC, L’Oréal, Chanel, and Jeffree Star.) At the risk of taking the technology for granted, what went into creating these iconic colors? Accidental experiments, bold defiance, an enterprising mind, good taste, shrewd manufacturing, and hours of color matching in the product development laboratories.
A Short History Lesson: Accidental Chemistry Makes Mauve
In 1856 over Easter vacation, 18-year-old William Perkin set out to isolate quinine from coal tar. Perkin was the student of the great German organic chemist August Wilhelm von Hofmann at London’s Royal College of Chemistry. Quinine (Figure 1) is an important compound with antimalarial properties. However, any chemist who knows its chemical structure would not have attempted the approach of Perkin. One should keep in mind that during this period of time the structure of benzene was not even understood. Figure 1: Chemical structures of a) benzene, whose structure was unknown until after the 1860s, and b) quinine, whose anti-malarial properties were of interest to Perkin. Purification attempts of quinine led to his discovery of mauve.
…by Diane Lye
Embarking on what some might have called a fool’s errand, Perkin attempted to chemically isolate the compound. With an artist’s eye, he stumbled upon mauve instead, or “aniline purple”, through a series of serendipitous experiments. Mere luck would not have been enough to produce the entire libraries of color additives manufactured today. Against his professor’s recommendation—proof that we should always make final judgement calls for ourselves rather than obey advice without discernment—Perkin commercialized his discovery. With the financial support of his father, a construction contractor, he developed the processes for the production and use of the new aniline purple dye. In 1857, Perkin opened his factory at Greenford Green near London. From modest beginnings, the synthetic dye industry and its relative, the pharmaceutical industry, was born. Despite falling short of his original goal (R&D scientists and research leaders: Take note!), Perkin discovered the world’s first synthetic dye, opening up an entire chemical industry and painting the mass markets with bedazzling color. Each time we swivel up a beloved tube of lipstick for application, we pay homage to Perkin. Our ability to make style statements with color products was enabled entirely by Perkin’s accidental discovery in 1856, shrewd manufacturing, and business development.
Color Additives for the Consumer-Packaged Goods Industry
Perhaps the most tightly regulated in the cosmetic industry, these ingredients play an important role in making products visually appealing for consumers. With the right product, it empowers the consumer to make artistic statements of her choice through color products, unencumbered. (continued on Page 4)
A P R I L 1 6 : N Y S C C AT H O M E L I V E W E B I N A R S E R I E S L A U N C H E S See page 6 for April agenda and more information.
2020 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgino Macalino gmacalin@estee.com
Chair-Elect Susanna Fernandes fernandes.susie@gmail.com Treasurer Stephen Carter treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Mohamed Abdulla treasurer-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Sonia Dawson advisor@nyscc.org Program Maria Mo mo.maria.je@gmail.com By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Cathy Piterski cathy.piterski@givaudan.com Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
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Letter from the Chairman …Giorgino Macalino
OW! That’s how I started last month’s letter, and it’s about all I can say now regarding the COVID-19 impact on our lives and the world. When we confirmed this year’s theme as Revolutionary Disruptors, I never imagined what that could mean! First of all, I hope you are safe and learning to operate in this new normal. We’ve all had to pivot and pivot again to continue to operate and navigate our personal and professional lives in ways that none of us could have imagined. Please be assured that the NYSCC is aiming to be a part of this new course, and hopefully, provide you with intel, engagement, and resources that will make this period of time as productive and rewarding as it can be. At the conclusion of our Town Hall meeting on March 24th, which included the NYSCC Executive Board, committee members, and invited guests from National, it was evident that participants were eager for new ways of obtaining and digesting content, as well as new ways of engaging with colleagues. With the postponement of spring programs and NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in May, we are all in agreement that there is a void that needs to be filled! We are investigating platforms that will deliver content and programming, as well as real interaction between suppliers and chemists that will begin conversations and business discussions sooner rather than later. We can’t wait until the Fall! As you know, Suppliers’ Day has been rescheduled for September 30th through October 1st at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. The number of shows that had to be rescheduled at the Javits is unprecedented in its history. We are so fortunate that quick action and a decision to delay as long as possible resulted in dates that are desirable and, quite honestly, in demand. We are in the process of re-locating all exhibitors as we are moving to the upstairs exhibit halls, updating all materials, and developing creative new programs to keep our suppliers engaged until the doors open on September 30th. What we had planned in the Spring included some of the hottest topics in product formulation: Skin Microbiome: Perspectives on Aging, Compromised Skin and Cosmetics, and Digital Algorithms of Beauty and Fragrance. The speakers and content were already confirmed—so please stay tuned for opportunities to participate remotely or for re-scheduled dates. We are also reviewing our successful and popular programs on Sunscreen Updates and Indie 360, which took place at the beginning of the year, to offer content from these programs to members who were not able to attend. We are open to suggestions and welcome ideas on how to keep the content, learning, and conversation going! If you/your company is doing anything innovative that you can share, please do! In the meantime, know that we will be in touch and providing relevant subject matter. I would like to end this letter on a good note and advise that NYSCC Suppliers’ Day was named as one of the FASTEST 50 GROWING TRADESHOWS in North America. This designation required providing details on number of exhibitors/attendees as well as the growth in size. We are grateful to all previous chairs and Suppliers’ Day committee members who have contributed greatly over the years and enabled the expo to become the main event serving cosmetic chemistry in North America. It was a vision put forth many years ago in a hotel in New Jersey, which now has come to fruition! So, congratulations and thank you to everyone who has made this happen! Stay safe, stay healthy, and remain optimistic! Reach out with thoughts and ideas. I truly hope to see you soon!
31st IFSCC Congress
Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
Yokohama, Japan October 20-23, 2020
Social Media Estelle Gu socialmedia@nyscc.org
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Suppliers’ Day Recognized as an Elite Event for 2019!
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Innovating beauty – clean and simple
uppliers’ Day has been named as one of the “Fastest 50” growing shows in North America by Trade Show Executive (TSE) magazine. Suppliers’ Day is an honoree in the “Fastest 50” by Exhibiting Companies list and was selected based on its extraordinary growth of exhibiting companies from 2018 to 2019. Suppliers’ Day also received the “Next 50” honor by TSE for its net square feet of exhibit space and total attendance—making the event a strong contender for being a Top 50 in these categories next year. The “Fastest 50” Awards recognizes exceptional shows from across the country and from a wide range of verticals and industries. For a complete list of honorees, visit https://www.tsefastest50.com/honorees/.
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Development of Color Products
DISCOVER The Natural Choice
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PROTAMEEN
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Modern day color additives have come a long way since 1856, and have been safely used for more than 150 years. Color additives are used to liven up a product. As industrial research brought science into industry, the industrial colorist was a profession that developed alongside industrial design after World War I. American designers and artists worked together on the design of tasteful and attractive goods to promote culture and civility to a nation that had become overwhelmed with unsophisticated immigrants from largely rural regions of southern and eastern Europe. For manufacturers, the mass production of different colored goods posed other challenges. The need to predict which colored products would be attractive to the masses required market research, upkeep with Parisian fashion trends, and an understanding of consumer psychology. After World War II, the epicenter of mass market fashion moved to New York, where consumers exercised—and still do very much today—the power of choice over color for self-expression. In broader contexts in business, color is used to liven a brand or company through its logo, create instantaneous product recognition, set the visual tone and impression, and even influence consumer psychology. As such, judicious choice and use of color in products, advertisements, and on live consumer lips and faces, can pose as an effective marketing campaign strategy to increase a company’s awareness and presence in the marketplace.
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Technology Advancements Empowers the Consumer as Artist
Since the advent of brands like Urban Decay from the 1990s, bold colors have emerged on the cosmetic market, like a relentless catwalk and lightshow of color. Greens, blues, the blackest black, the pinkest pink, and everything unicorn, iridescent, pearlescent, glow-in-the-dark, and in-between have become mainstays of any cosmetic product line aiming to market itself as exciting and cutting-edge. 4
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Owing to technological advancements, consumers no longer have to choose between long-lastingness, comfort, payoff, or value. Oftentimes, a large palette of color options accosts her with the option of layering more than one color over her lips, eyelids, eyelashes, or face to achieve a desired shade and look.
Less is More?
Presented with the sleuth of options, studies on the paradox of choice by Professors Barry Schwartz and Sheena Iyengar come to mind. While more isn’t always better, in the world of cosmetic products and beauty trends today, more does mean more. The wide array of color options delights the beauty consumer. Today, this consumer is as complex in skin tone, gender, political association, and values, and expects her beauty products to reflect her multidimensional nuanced identity just as effectively. Variety in color and shade options (particularly in skin-matching tones for foundations) have been in long-time demand. Consumers asked and beauty companies listened. The market today has made progress since the era of limited shade range housed in drugstorebranded compacts, where nary a tester was in sight for the consumer to choose a shade that matched her skin tone. “Nude” can mean many different shades. Brands such as Beauty Bakerie were founded upon this very premise of inclusion, turning shade names upon its head. Where brands used to start shade naming from light to dark, Beauty Bakerie makes it a point to call its darkest shade “1”.
High Performance Ingredients for Skin and Hair Care Smooth, mild, natural and stable
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Advent of Color via the Chemical Industry, Social Media, and Business
The evolution of consumer tastes tracks the ubiquitous use of social media and the rise of the beauty blogger voice, both which continue to drive demand volumes and trends today. Continued delivery of chemical and formulation innovation is what enables the fashionistas to push the envelope on what is considered wearable and trendy. Contrapuntal to the international beauty companies’ main-stream product development approach, the rise of indie brands and the use of direct selling (e.g., Glossier) have sprung up to fill market whitespaces from the supply side. From the formulator’s standpoint, innovation has liberated what is possible in performance and payoff to meet the ever-growing consumer demands for “new”. Consumer force and industry innovation, very much lubricated by social media, has progressed hand in hand dramatically in the last decade. The consumer voice has gained a significant amount of power in the beauty and consumer products industry today. The onslaught of small beauty brands has forced larger beauty conglomerates to innovate, push daring and imaginative color products, or buy up these small brands in an effort to be more competitive. Development of technology by material suppliers continues to facilitate the creative explosion of color products. Raw ingredient suppliers in Europe, Asia, and the Americas push the boundaries of surface functionalization; particle, colloidal, material and formulation development; designing polymers; and optimizing production capabilities to enable supply and production of novel raw ingredients. The advancement of technology and manufacture production has put high-performing value products directly into the consumers’ hands, democratizing beauty and lowering the cost of self-expression. With the glut of products and trends, it remains to be seen where the push-pull conversation between consumers and companies will take us. It is an exciting time to observe how raw ingredient suppliers and product development companies, big and small, will respond to market forces.
Bibliography
1. https://www.sciencehistory.org/historical-profile/william-henry-perkin 2. R.M. Rydzewski, Real World Drug Discovery: A Chemist’s Guide to Biotech and Pharmaceutical Research, Elsevier: Amsterdam, 2008. 3. https://www.sciencehistory.org/distillations/magazine/colors-run-riot 4. https://medium.com/marketing-and-entrepreneurship/the-psychology-of-logo-color-in-howconsumers-view-your-brand-d3afe84f2bdb 5. https://www.fastcompany.com/3028378/what-your-logos-color-says-about-your-companyinfographic (continued on Page 6)
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562-9 61-3333 Per sonalCareUS@omya.com
Development of Color Products
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6. https://hbr.org/2006/06/more-isnt-always-better 7. https://www.glamour.com/story/jackie-aina-too-faced 8. https://www.wsj.com/articles/celebrities-like-kylie-jenner-are-upending-the-52-billionbeauty-industry-1543401001 9. https://www.wsj.com/articles/small-cosmetics-brands-make-over-the-beauty-market-bytargeting-millennials-11556296365 10. https://www.wsj.com/articles/glossier-tops-billion-dollar-valuation-with-latest-funding11552993200
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Dr. Diane Lye
About the Author… r. Diane Lye is a research scientist and product developer. She translates materials into finished products and studies their physicochemical properties. Diane first cut her fundamental scientific teeth studying stimuli-responsive polymer materials at the NYU Molecular Design Institute. She is an active contributor of scientific articles, published in academic journals, and developed a market commercialization plan for a dermal technology in partnership with NYU Stern Business and NYU Langone Medical School. The application and translation of science, for the benefit of society, lies at the heart of Diane’s work. She is currently working on the antiviral remdesivir for the current COVID-19 outbreak.
2020 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org April 16 NYSCC At Home Live Webinar Series Launches – www.nyscc.org June 16 Skin Microbiome: Perspectives on Aging, Comprised Skin and Cosmetics – TBD July 27 Golf Outing – Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ
August 12 Sun Care Symposium – Seasons Catering, Washington Township, NJ September 23 Color Cosmetics – Color Trend Forecast – Lightbox, New York, NY September 30 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Center, New York, NY – October 1 October 13 Effect Pigments Symposium – Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ November 18 Beyond Hair Care and Officer Installation – Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Brooklyn, NY December 15 NYSCC Mentor Mentee Mixer – New York, NY 6
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NYSCC At Home Live Webinar Series
n order to continue to provide educational content to our members during the COVID-19 crisis, the NYSCC has instituted the NYSCC At Home Live Series, which will offer live webinars from industry recognized leaders. April 16
Color Trends: Do you Want to be the Front-Runner or Follower? Understanding the Origin, Influences, and Development of Today’s Colors – Amy Marshall
April 21
Hand Sanitizers and the Role of Hand Hygiene in Keeping Us Healthy – Robert Lochhead, Ph.D.
April 23
The Fight Against COVID 19 – Science, Hand Sanitizers, and Other Forms of Personal Protection – Howard Epstein, Ph.D.
April 28
April 30 May 5
BEAUTY
begins here.
Healthy Habits: Cleanse + Care. Adding Care to Our New Skin Hygiene Routine – Carl D’Ruiz, Luciana Uttembergue, and Sonia Dawson
Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care. GO
Sustainability 101 – Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. Suppliers’ Day Revolutionary Disruptor Series Kick-off
These are SCC-wide FREE webinars for all. To register, visit the https://nyscc.org/at-home-live-series/. ____________________________________________________________
Speaker Abstracts and Biographies Color Trends: Do you Want to be the Front-Runner or Follower? Understanding the Origin, Influences, and Development of Today’s Colors
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– Amy Marshall
olor. It’s more than a visual stimulus. From Tiffany’s light turquoise gift box to UPS’s big brown box trucks, color is the essence of iconic existence. Join Amy as she explores the oftentimes obscure external influence that sometimes drives the cosmetic industry, sometimes reacts to the industry, and always is present in reflecting or contrasting our industry. While most recognize the influence of the color of a simple bridesmaid’s gown on the choice of lipstick and eye shadow, most do not realize how the colors of automobiles, furniture fabric, fashion, paints, and appliances impact the colors and textures of makeup. Likewise, while at some intrinsic level, we all are able to understand someone’s mood or personality by observing their bright red nail polish and lipstick from someone else’s black nail polish and lipstick, this conversation will explore the concept of the Mood Board in developing the trends of tomorrow. In this presentation, we will provide marketing and sales people with a historic perspective that will empower them to lead the market instead of reacting to it and for cosmetic chemists to initiate the process that may result in the next big thing. (continued on Page 8)
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Your specialty silicone partner
NYSCC At Home Live Webinar Series n Amy Marshall
Ms. Marshall started her career as a cosmetic formulating chemist prior to moving into sales. She trained new sales people and developed and implemented strategies for opening new markets in the Americas. Amy worked at Cardre Inc. and Presperse Inc. where she built a strong color presence for both companies. Her passion for creating unique, new colors that follow the current trends has resulted in product placements throughout the globe. Since joining ECKART in 2007 as Head of Sales Ms. Marshall’s portfolio has grown to include Marketing Technical Services, where she identifies new markets and develops, implements, and execute sales plans. In 2015, Ms. Marshall became one of the first recipients to receive the SCC’s designation as a Marketing Fellow. She had held several positions within the SCC including National Secretary, Area I Director, and NYSCC Chapter Chair. She is currently the By-Laws and Special Events Coordinator Chair for the NYSCC. Amy earned a Master’s of Cosmetic Science from Fairleigh Dickinson University. ____________________________________________________________
Hand Sanitizers and the Role of Hand Hygiene in Keeping Us Healthy
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Siltech Corporation www.siltech.com sales@siltech.com
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– Robert Y. Lochhead Ph.D., FRSC
n the 1850s, Professor of Medicine at Harvard University Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr. posited the idea that childbed fever could be transferred from patient to patient by doctors. Early indications of the importance of hand hygiene was demonstrated in the mid-19th century in two Viennese maternity hospitals in which the incidence of death from childbed fever, in both mothers and new-born babies, was dramatically reduced by requiring chlorine handwashing by healthcare providers. Presurgical antiseptics were introduced by Joseph Lister during the period 1865-1891. Lister’s recommendations were to wash the hands with carbolic soap, dry with a towel, and then rub and brush with 90% ethanol for 3-5 minutes. Hand hygiene is a topic that must be reviewed on a recurring basis due to several factors: • Advances in therapy have allowed susceptible people with compromised health conditions to survive to old age. • The re-use, rather than disposal, of personal protective equipment, in particular of gloves that are not discarded or sanitized after each procedure. • Antiseptic products with less than broad spectrum have the potential to cause the emergence of antiseptic resistant strains of skin flora. For example, antibiotically-resistant Staphylococcyl strains can quickly transfer from the hands of health care providers to critically ill patients. • Health professionals who do not adhere to strict hand hygiene practices. In the 21st century handwashing has been supplemented and sometimes replaced by antiseptic hand rubs. These range from simple alcohol solutions to gels with stimuli-responsive polymers to foams that can be automatically dispensed. The role of antiseptic hand rubs in health care is emphasized by Mortality and Morbidity Reports from the Center for Disease Control and the World Health Organization’s Guide to hand hygiene. Hand sanitizers have been shown to reduce absenteeism due to acute respiratory or gastrointestinal diseases. The number of hand rubs claiming to be antiseptic have risen from about a dozen in the 1990s to more than 700 today. This proliferation and the need to ensure that antiseptic hand rub products are generally recognized to be safe and effective caused the OTC Review Committee of the FDA to issue a final rule restricting the eligible active ingredients to ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, and benzalkonium chloride, and committed them to deferred regulatory action pending demonstration of GRAS/GRAE for the products containing the three eligible ingredients. Twenty-eight other active ingredients were identified as ineligible active ingredients that would require approval under an NDA or ANDA. The FDA action opened the door to potential class action lawsuits under California’s consumer laws. In this webinar, we will review the history, chemistry, regulatory status, and legal environment of hand sanitizers. Bibliography 1. Handwashing Liaison Group, Hand Washing: A Modest Measure—With Big Effects, BMJ, 318(7185), 686 (1999). 8
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2. I. Semmelweis, The etiology, concept and prophylaxis of childbed fever. In: The Challenge of Epidemiology—Issues and Selected Readings, Eds. C. Buck, A. Llopis, E. Najera, and M. Terris, PAHO Scientific Publication: Washington, p. 46-59, 1988. 3. WHO Guidelines on Hand Hygiene in Health Care: A Summary, WHO Press: Geneva, 2009.
n Robert Y. Lochhead, Ph.D., FRSC
Dr. Lochhead is Professor and Director Emeritus at the School of Polymer Science and Engineering at the University of Southern Mississippi, where he was Director of that School for almost two decades. Prior to joining academia, the first twenty-five years of his career were spent in industrial research that ranged from polymer and silicone synthesis with I.C.I., to colloid and surface science with Unilever Research, and to the research and management of a hydrophilic polymers’ research group with BF Goodrich. Dr. Lochhead is the author of more than a hundred scientific papers and reviews, and a named inventor on 22 patents. The polymers that he has invented have enabled new and better technologies with beneficial societal and environmental impact. Dr. Lochhead has received many awards for his contributions and these include: The Maison G. DeNavarre medal; Merit Awards and Lifetime Service Award from the Society of Cosmetic Chemists; The Chemical Pioneer Award from the American Institute of Chemists; and The Education Award from the Society of Plastics Engineers. Dr. Lochhead serves on the INCI committee and he has served twice as the President of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He also served as President of the International Association of Formulation Chemists. ____________________________________________________________
The Fight Against COVID 19 – Science, Hand Sanitizers, and Other Forms of Personal Protection
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– Howard Epstein, Ph.D.
he virus that causes COVID-19 is spreading easily. The CDC reports that this virus is spreading more efficiently than influenza, but not as efficiently as measles. The first line of defense is avoidance while the second line is personal protection. Hand sanitizers are in short supply. For this reason, the FDA will permit manufacturers to produce hand sanitizers under very specific guidelines. This short presentation will discuss what scientists are doing to mitigate the spread of the corona virus and specifics of the FDA guidance for compounding hand sanitizers.
n Howard Epstein, Ph.D.
Howard Epstein is Director of Technical Services for EMD Performance Materials Corporation, an affiliate of Merck KGaA. He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati Department of Dermatology and received his Ph.D. in Pharmacognasy from the Union Institute and University of Cincinnati during that time. He has worked in the cosmetics industry for many years, ever since he began his career formulating cosmetics for Estée Lauder, Maybelline, Max Factor, Bausch & Lomb, and Kao Brands. In addition to his interest in botanicals, Howard previously served as editor of the Journal of Cosmetic Science and is a member of the (continued on Page 10)
NYSCC Sponsorship Opportunities The NYSCC Sponsorship Committee is proud to invite interested parties to sponsor NYSCC educational events throughout the year. Sponsorship Committee:
Yelena Zolotarsky (yelenazol@gmail.com) and Daphne Benderly (dbenderly@presperse.com) For more information, please visit: http://nyscc.org/sponsorship-opportunities/
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NYSCC At Home Live Webinar Series
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International Academy of Dermatology. He is on the editorial board of the dermatological journals, Clinics in Dermatology and SKINmed, representing the cosmetics industry to dermatologists. Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including several chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology and holds eight patents and two patent applications. ____________________________________________________________
Healthy Habits: Cleanse + Care. Adding Care to Our New Skin Hygiene Routine
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– Carl D’Ruiz, Luciana Uttembergue, and Sonia Dawson
e are in the midst of a life-altering paradigm shift. Habit-changing forces have consumers— and companies—now challenged to improvise and rethink shared spaces, work and play environments, and a host of other lifestyle behaviors, especially hygiene. In these times, where regular handwashing and the use of sanitizers are highly recommended throughout the day, it is inevitable that our skin barrier will begin to struggle. In order to protect the skin, there is a need for elevated attention to skin care to sustain moisturization and skin barrier integrity. Join our webinar to discover: • The new normal in skin cleansing. • How repeated cleansing demands a new level of skin care. • Important regulatory considerations for hand sanitizer formulations. • Formulating tips to support new healthy consumer habits of Cleansing + Care.
n Carl D’Ruiz, MPH
Mr. D’Ruiz is an accomplished regulatory professional with more than 20 years of experience in providing strategic scientific, regulatory, and advocacy leadership and direction for the global development, pre-market approval, and sustainability of numerous consumer and professional products and technologies, ingredients, and brands. He has held key R&D, regulatory, quality, product safety, clinical, and scientific affairs positions at Ciba, Dial, Henkel, ITG Brands, Newell Rubbermaid, and currently is the Senior Manager of Regulatory and Governmental Affairs for Personal Care Products, North America at DSM Nutritional Products, LLC. He is regarded as a thought leader within the industry on the subject of OTC drugs, cosmetics, and personal care products and specializes in a wide range of public health, regulatory, and scientific issues associated with photoprotection; antimicrobials and biocides; colds and influenza; tobacco harm reduction; green chemistry; and the microbiome. As Chair of the PCPC Sunscreen Consortium, he is currently championing industry’s efforts to substantiate the safety and efficacy of existing sunscreens while also paving the path for the inclusion of new sunscreen ingredients under the FDA’s OTC sunscreen monograph. In addition, he has also been active in helping shape and influence Congressional cosmetic and OTC drug legislative reform initiatives and has a unique flair for developing and substantiating creative, truthful, and cutting-edge consumer product label and advertising claims. Mr. D’Ruiz holds a Master’s degree in Human and Environmental Health Science and Risk Management from the Yale School of Medicine and a Bachelor’s degree in Political Science and Pre-medicine from Fordham University. Outside of work, Carl enjoys competitive road cycling, golf, skiing, and theater.
n Luciana Uttembergue
Luciana, a Brazilian national, holds a degree in Chemistry and Cosmetics Technology from Oswaldo Cruz University and an Executive MBA from INSPER, São Paulo, Brazil. She also has a degree in Pharmacy and Biochemistry and has more than 10 years of experience in the cosmetics industry. Luciana has been with DSM for 8 years and in that time, she has been responsible for developing successful cosmetic projects. Prior to joining DSM, Luciana worked within the R&D Department of IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances). She currently holds the position of Sr. Regional Technical Manager, DSM Personal Care North America. 10
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n Sonia Dawson
• 100% n derived • No eye i • High-fo • EO-free, EO free • Biodegr
Sonia Dawson leads the regional marketing team for DSM Personal Care. She has over 16 years of experience in the Personal Care industry spanning marketing, sales, and R&D. Sonia has a technical background in Chemical Engineering with a Bachelor’s degree in Engineering from Stevens Institute of Technology. In addition to her professional experience, Sonia is currently Advisor on the executive board of the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
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Sustainability 101
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– Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.
colonialchem.com
oday, sustainability is a main driver for supply chain and marketing in the personal care industry. The new generations have embraced the concept with enthusiasm and they expect companies to deliver. The bar is higher since new certifications, working groups, and advocates have started to bring the concept of sustainability on the desk of decision makers and spread it out through social media. Corporate responsibility is now part of corporate annual reports and not a separate item, forcing procurements to a deeper analysis and selection in regard to sourcing ingredients, packaging components, merchandise, etc. Still, the concept of sustainability is confusing to most consumers and it can be easily manipulated. While it is important to distinguish between environment and social progress, it is equally important to explain the synergy and how we can grow in harmony with nature.
n Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.
Giorgio is a cosmetic scientist and a consultant for the personal care industry. A graduate from the University of Rome, Italy, he worked for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research at Mount Sinai Medical School in New York and Harvard Medical School in Boston. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 20 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. He specializes in skin and hair care ingredients, finished product development, and technical marketing. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market and has authored more than 60 publications in medicine and cosmetic science. In the last 10 years, he has written and lectured on natural cosmetic ingredients, sustainable supply chain, and helped source, develop, and bring to market many natural ingredients. Some of his recent product development activity has focused on food byproducts in cosmetics, treatment of skin with prebiotics and postbiotics, and adaptogens for skin and hair care. He is an award-winning speaker on natural ingredients and a regular columnist on sustainability and cosmetic science. He is also the chair of the Scientific Committee for the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
T
Call for Papers
he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
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Andrew Minczuk 201-259-7245 andrew.minczuk@colonialchem.com
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