March 2021 • Vol. 27 • Issue 3
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K.J. Lissant’s Fundamental Studies with High Internal Phase Ratio Emulsions and Incremental Advances and Refinements of this Technology Over the Past 50 Years …by Paul Thau
ntil the early 1970s, little attention was given to high internal phase ratio emulsions (often referred to as HIPEs). This was probably because few emulsifying agents known at that time had the capacity to produce and stabilize such emulsions. Shortly later, polymeric emulsifiers became available. It then became possible to prepare stable water-in-oil emulsions containing up to 95% internal phase. These emulsions were called high internal phase ratio emulsions. It had long been known that if a monodisperse system of rigid spheres is packed in the most advantageous manner into an emulsion, the spheres would occupy a little over 74% of the total volume of the system. Experience had shown that when conventional soap-type emulsifiers were used in attempts to prepare emulsions with over 70% internal phase, they usually inverted at about 74%. Lissant’s group at Petrolite Inc. found that it was possible to prepare emulsions with well over 90% aqueous internal phase that were relatively monodisperse.1-3 The droplets of these emulsions were not spherical. They must assume some transitional form between spheres and polyhedra. For this reason, they conducted a study of the restrictions placed on such systems by the pure geometry of the situation. For simplicity they first assumed that the droplets are truly monodisperse, that is, all droplets have equal volume. They also assumed that the specialty emulsifier essentially prevents coalescence. High internal phase ratio emulsions are defined as emulsions comprising greater than 75% by volume of aqueous internal phase.4 The droplets present in high internal phase ratio emulsions are deformed from the usual spherical shape into polyhedral shapes and are locked in place. The high internal phase ratio emulsions normally display unusual rheological properties, which are generally attributed to the existence of the polyhedral droplets. The main reason that classical water-in-oil emulsions were greasy and occlusive was because in most instances the classical formulation contained a high concentration of oil, wax, or petrolatum, plus a much lower concentration of water. The breakthrough with high internal phase ratio emulsions is that the aqueous concentration with the use of polymeric emulsifiers can be anywhere from 70% to 95%. (continued on Page 3)
A C E L E B R AT I O N O F W O M E N I N S C I E N C E
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...see pages 4-6 for more information.
MARCH 8th-31st
2021 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Susanna Fernandes chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Secretary Leor Fay Tal secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Giorgino Macalino advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org
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Letter from the Chair
…Susanna Fernandes
he NYSCC is definitely like the month of March and coming in like a lion! Our “At Home Live” and intensive webinar series continue to be well received and provide relevant information for our members and product development community. “Formulating for Inclusion” provided keen insight from beauty suppliers, marketers, and dermatologists on the market opportunities and how to create products that make a difference for consumers of African ancestry. As panelist Stephanie Biagini of Mana Products noted, “Formulating for inclusion is everything, whether it is for hair or skin.” Then, Digital Age of Beauty provided more than five hours of on-demand content from analytic forecasters and technology innovators. During the live Q&A, with all the consumer trends being driven by new ingredients, everyone agreed cosmetic chemists have become rock stars and are invaluable in the formulation and product development process. March 8th is International Women’s Day, and the theme is #ChooseToChallenge, which highlights the importance of challenging biases and misconceptions in the interest of creating a more inclusive and gender-equal world. This theme complements and underscores the NYSCC’s theme this year of “Embracing Beauty: What Makes Us Different, Makes Us Beautiful.” I am excited about the upcoming Women in Science webinar this month, which will celebrate and recognize the achievements of trailblazers in our industry. We end the month with a class on Trends and Formulation in Gentle Cleansing, as more modern consumers seek new and improved ways to optimize their cleansing routines. Looking ahead, we are busy finalizing the rest of our monthly programs, and ask you to stay tuned for the return of our Annual Golf Outing in July! In addition, Suppliers’ Day is confirmed for November 10-11, 2021 at the Javits Center in New York, with a virtual day on November 12th. As announced, the event will be an enhanced collaboration with National SCC as well as sister chapters across the country. Inside this issue, check out a sneak peek on an exciting Career Day sponsored by SCC as well as more for up-and-coming chemists that will be offered during our Week of Beauty. I am also so appreciative of the initial support I have received from the executive board and this chapter’s amazing committee members and volunteers. My first quarter as Chair has been exhilarating, and to already be able to witness some of our initiatives and goals come to fruition this early in my tenure, is so gratifying. We aren’t stopping in providing quality education and engagement tools to reach and bolster our members. Be on the lookout for more information on our very own podcast and other novel programs. In the meantime, please don’t hesitate to contact me with ways that the NYSCC can better serve you and the beauty and personal care community. Please stay safe and be well.
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NYSCC Volunteers
s we prepare for the future, I would like to remind you that even during these unpredictable and challenging times, the NYSCC has remained a vibrant source of education and engagement. There is still time to be a part of this and make your mark in NYSCC history! As your Chair for 2021, I am in the midst of finalizing programming, special events, and awards programs. All of these events are conceptualized and brought to fruition by you, our members. Member volunteers gain incredible networking opportunities that span the globe while providing real value to their colleagues. If you have not already done so, I urge you to consider becoming a part of this incredible team! We are now accepting applications for volunteers: please click through and COMPLETE THE FORM to receive consideration for a volunteer position. After we review your application, we will contact you and arrange a call so together we can ascertain the best fit for you within our committees and future projects. Stay safe and I hopefully look forward to being with all of you soon! Susanna Fernandes 2021 NYSCC Chair 2
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K.J. Lissant’s Fundamental Studies with High Internal Phase Ratio Emulsions and Incremental Advances and Refinements of this Technology (continued from Page 1) The feasibility of formulating stable, low viscosity water-in-oil lotions with minimum oil phase content that exhibit desirable aesthetic properties came into closer focus during the 1980s. This resulted from the confluence of new developments, particularly the introduction of low HLB polymeric emulsifiers, specialty silicone emulsifiers, and methodologies to improve stability of these waterin-oil emulsions. Among these specialty polymeric emulsifiers are: cetyl dimethicone copolyol, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and polyglyceryl oleate. Researchers also disclosed that high internal phase ratio emulsions with increased stability can be obtained by the inclusion of appropriate levels of electrolytes such as magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride, or calcium chloride at concentrations from 0.2 to 1.5%, depending upon the composition of the specific high internal phase ratio emulsion.
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Concluding Remarks
Starting with the pioneering work of K.J. Lissant, incremental technical and scientific advances over the past 50 years have contributed to providing innovative paths to resolve the long soughtafter challenge of formulating low-viscosity, stable, and aesthetic water-in-oil lotions with high water content. These varied high internal phase ratio emulsion compositions offer numerous options to formulate an innovative range of cosmetic formulations.
References
1. K.J. Lissant, The geometry of high internal phase ratio emulsions, J. Coll. Inter. Sci., 22, 462-468 (1996). 2. K.J. Lissant, The geometry of emulsions technology, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 21, 141-151 (1970). 3. K.J. Lissant, U.S. Patent 3,988,508. High internal phase ratio emulsion polymers, October 26, 1976. 4. P. Thau, “High internal phase water-in-oil emulsions” in Handbook of Formulating Dermal Applications: A Definitive Practical Guide, Ed. N. Dayan, John Wiley & Sons: Hoboken, NJ; pp. 155-166, 2016. ____________________________________________________________
About the Author
Paul Thau was employed at Cosmair/L’Oréal USA for over 22 years, during which time he served as Assistant Vice-President of Cosmetic R&D and then as Senior Research Fellow. His cosmetic industry experience spans more than fifty years and includes R&D positions at Revlon, Bristol-Myers, CIBA Pharmaceutical, and Warner-Lambert. Paul has served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in many capacities including Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1971 and President of National in 1988. Later he was a member of the IFSCC Presidium and Scientific Committee. Paul is a Fellow of the SCC and holds fifteen U. S. patents. He was presented with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Maison de Navarre Award in 2005. From 1999 until 2014, Paul ran a cosmetic consulting company, PaCar Tech, which specialized in the areas of innovative product development, new cosmetic raw materials, technology transfer, and technology acquisition. Paul may be reached by e-mail (Pathau21@gmail.com) or mobile telephone (908-451-9558).
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Surface Treated Pigments
Silicone Hybrid Fluids
For more information email TechPCS@gelest.com
NYSCC Programs
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A Celebration of Women in Science March 8 – 31, 2021
On-Demand Content Available
n commemoration of International Women’s Day, the NYSCC will kick-off a month-long celebration! Join us in March as we sit down with female thought leaders from the cosmetic industry. We’ll hear their stories and opinions on where the industry is going. The celebration will culminate into a robust, roundtable discussion about the female influence on product lifecycle as it moves down the value chain. • The event kicks off on March 8, 2021 with on-demand content featuring interviews with elite participants from R&D, Marketing, and Sales. • On-demand content will be available until March 31, 2021 when the event finishes off with a roundtable discussion with the participation of all the speakers. • Register now for the live round table discussion to access the on-demand content.
Agenda
To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.
Expertly moderated by Stephanie L. Biagini, the exclusive on-demand content includes:
R&D: Focus on Science
Josie Adams (AVON) Jocelyn Yu (Mana Products Innovation Lab)
Marketing/PD: Focus on Positioning Lynna Pili (Clariant) Kristen Presti (Sandream Impact LLC) Erin M. Turner (BASF)
Sales: Focus on Consumer
Sonia Dawson (IOI OLEO Personal Care) Brenda Gallagher (Mana Products) Dawn Moore (Grant Industries, Inc.)
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Speaker Biographies
n Stephanie L. Biagini, Moderator – MANA Products
A passionate industry specialist, Stephanie currently leads the MANA Innovation Team as the Senior Manager of Innovation. Starting her career in the cosmetics industry working for Avon Products Inc., she worked as a cosmetic chemist across multiple functions—from color to skincare to fine fragrances. From Avon, she moved to BASF, a chemical supplier for the cosmetic industry, managing color applications within the Application Technologies/Technical Service group for the Care Chemicals division. From there, she was chosen to carve out BASF’s Colors & Effects subsidiary, a division focused on the development of effect pigments for the cosmetics, industrial, and automotive industries. With BASF Colors & Effects, she managed the North America Application Lab within the Expert Services team. In 2020, she moved to Mana. Stephanie is active in the CEW and SCC. She attended undergraduate and graduate school at Fairleigh Dickinson University, receiving a B.S. in Chemistry and then an M.S. in Cosmetic Science. In 2018, she completed her M.B.A. in Marketing from Fordham University. In her free time, she enjoys painting. _______________________________________________________________
n Sonia Dawson – IOI OLEO Personal Care
Sonia Dawson is Sales Manager – Americas for IOI Oleo Personal Care. She has over 17 years of experience in the Personal Care industry spanning Marketing, Sales, and Research and Development for ingredient technologies. Sonia’s personal mission is to champion inclusive conversations to spur new levels of conscious action in business. She has been a member of the NYSCC since 2003. In her most recent NYSCC experience, she served as Chair of the executive board in 2019 and Advisor in 2020. ___________________________________________________________________
n Brenda Gallagher – Mana Products
Brenda Gallagher is currently Vice President – New Business Development. She has been at MANA for 11 years. Previously she held positions as Director and Sr. Direction of Mana Private Label. Brenda has over 35 years of experience in the beauty industry focused on skin care, hair care, and makeup. During her years of experience, she held the following positions: VP National Sales – KLAPP USA (German based skincare brand, distributed globally), VP Sales and Marketing – Sothys USA (French based skin care brand, distributed globally), SVP Spa Operations – Georgette Klinger (U.S. skin care spa chain), Director Sales and Operations – Premier Salons (U.S. hair salon chain – Saks Fifth Avenue Store Group). _______________________________________________________________
n Erin Turner – BASF
Erin Turner joined BASF Colors & Effects in 2017, serving the beauty industry in marketing and customer development roles. She is passionate about all things marketing, and enjoys connecting with customers and bringing new ideas to life. She has a degree in Marketing from NC State University and an M.B.A. from the University of Texas at Austin. _______________________________________________________________
n Kristen Presti – Sandream Impact LLC
Kristen Presti is the Vice President at Sandream Impact, where she oversees Sales, Marketing, Operations, and R&D. She has worked in the cosmetics and personal care industry for over fifteen years in a variety of roles, including key account and channel management, marketing, and product development. She has a B.A. in Biology from Bucknell University and an M.S. in Molecular Biology from Montclair State University. Kristen is located at Sandream’s headquarters in Fairfield, New Jersey, and she is excited to continue providing innovative ingredient solutions (continued on Page 6) to meet customers’ and consumers’ needs.
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562-9 61-3333 Per sonalCareUS@omya.com
A Celebration of Women in Science n Dawn Moore – Grant Industries, Inc.
(continued from Page 5)
Dawn Moore is a Sr. Account Manager at Grant Industries. She joined Grant five years ago. She started her sales career twenty-one years ago at EMD Chemicals. 7KH 1DWXUDO Over the years, she also worked at BASF and Symrise. She has been in sales &KRLFH throughout her career and can’t wait to get back on the road and in front of R&D! She is active in the SCC and CEW. _________________________________________________________
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n Josie Adams – AVON
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Josie Adams’ R&D experience spans leadership of all core beauty care categories and the entire range of the product innovation process from upstream new technology to product development, package engineering, and new product commercialization. She joined Avon in 2003, assumed increasing responsibilities across several global product development teams where she led identification and development of many first-to-market, award-winning innovations. She was appointed Vice President in 2010. Josie has led the New Product Development process and PMO organization, driving the stage gate process for over 1,000 Avon innovations annually. She is currently responsible for Avon R&D’s labs in Shanghai, UK, Poland, and South Africa, and most recently has been building labs and capabilities in Brazil and Mexico. Prior to Avon, Josie worked for nineteen years in Procter & Gamble’s Beauty Care R&D divisions. She holds an M.S. degree in Chemical Engineering and B.S. in Cellular and Molecular Biology from the University of Michigan with honors. She is an author on numerous patents and publications and has been a keynote speaker at international innovation forums. She has served on the board of the Rockland Legal Aid Society, and was honored as a 2018 New York Business Woman of Influence. Outside of work, Josie, her husband, and three children enjoy backpacking, traveling, and the outdoors. _________________________________________________________
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n Lynna Pili – Clariant
Lynna Pili leads Segment Marketing for Personal Care at Clariant North America. Her career has spanned over ten years with experience at both CPG and B2B companies. She has held roles in both technical and commercial functions, ranging from product development and formulation, to marketing and product management. She is particularly passionate about hair and body care applications and the latest trends across the beauty industry. She is based in New Jersey and holds a bachelor’s degree in Biological Sciences from Rutgers University. _________________________________________________________
n Jocelyn Yu – Mana Products Innovation Lab
Jocelyn Yu has been a Chemist II at MANA Products for the last 3 years. She started in the industry right after graduating from New York University and has been a part of the MANA Innovation team since.
NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium June TBD Virtual Event
Event Chair: Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D 6
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High Performance Ingredients for Skin and Hair Care Smooth, mild, natural and stable
www.charkit.com ww w ww.charkit.com | 203-299-3220
NYSCC At Home Live Series
Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas
Trends and Formulation Strategies for Gentle Cleansing
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kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com
March 25, 2021
s modern consumers continue to seek new and improved ways to optimize their cleansing routines, one trend stands out over others: the need for more gentle cleansing. What is driving this trend and what sorts of strategies can formulators take to help consumers meet these needs? Clean beauty solutions for highly biobased, sulfate-free, and PEG-free formulations will be discussed, including aqueous, anhydrous, and solid product formats. Vegan-compliant lab-scale testing, to benchmark and evaluate formulation modifications, will be discussed to help formulators know if desired low-irritation endpoints are likely to be achieved.
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Speaker Biography
n Dennis Abbeduto – Colonial Chemical, Inc.
ennis Abbeduto has over twenty years of surfactant and formulation chemistry experience and currently works for Colonial Chemical, Inc. in Southeast Tennessee as Personal Care Business Manager. He has also served as Product Applications Manager at Colonial. Prior to his time at Colonial Chemical, he worked for Alberto-Culver Company in Chicago, Illinois on skin care technology and as a formulation chemist for the St. Ives and Noxzema brands. Dennis also worked for McIntyre Group, Ltd. in University Park, Illinois as an R&D synthesis, applications, and claims chemist. He has a B.S. in Chemistry from Governors State University in University Park, Illinois.
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NYSCC Focuses on the Future Formulation Expert!
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hile providing education and engagement for our members and the cosmetic chemistry community at large is paramount to our mission, equally important is engaging and empowering those who will be the future force of the industry. The 2021 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day event will be the epicenter for these next generation leaders with programs designed that allow them to envision their future. Here’s an overview of what’s planned:
Future Chemists Workshop (FCW)
A staple at Suppliers’ Day in New York City, the FCW provides an interactive learning and challenge based environment for university students and leaders of tomorrow. Our goal is to host and instruct approximately 50 university students from chapters across the U.S. in a safe and compliant real-life lab experience. This is scheduled to take place on Day 1 of Suppliers’ Day – November 10, 2021.
Mentor-Mentee Icebreaker and Mixer
This event brings students from the FCW, as well as NYSCC student members, together with seasoned industry professionals to highlight and reinforce the professional development programs offered at Suppliers’ Day and throughout the year by the NYSCC. The committee spearheading this program will also introduce the sophisticated database which will match mentors and mentees while fostering interaction through fun, thoughtprovoking icebreakers. This is scheduled to take place over breakfast on Day 1 of Suppliers’ Day – November 10, 2021.
SCC Career Day
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will join forces with National SCC to complete this trifecta of offerings. Details are still being finalized, but topping off the activities for junior members of the SCC at large will be an opportunity to meet significant stakeholders of the cosmetics and personal care industry who will come together to share information on what the industry needs from its future workforce. During the event, information will also be presented by academia and corporate professionals providing attendees with vital information on how to take the next step in their cosmetic science career.
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Call for Papers
he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu. 8
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BEAUTY
begins here. Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care. GO
EMBRACING EMBRA CING BEA BEAUTY UTY A Celebration of What We Create
SUPPLIERS’’ DDAY SUPPLIERS AY 20 2021 21 NO NOVEMBER VEMBER 10-11 10-11 | VIRTUAL VIRTUAL DAY: DAY: NOVEMBER NOVEMBER 12 JACOB JACOB K. J JAVITS AVITS CONVENTION CONVENTION CENTER | NEW YORK YORK CITY
DETAILS, FOR FULL DET TAILS, AILS, VISIT V WWW.NYSCC.ORG/SUPPLIERS-DAY W WW.NYSCC.ORG/SUPPLIERS-DAY
SUPPLIERS’ DAY MAKES IT HAPPEN IN NYC & VIRTUALLY AROUND THE WORLD Marc h 2 0 2 1
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MMP’s innovative actives and functional ingredients
Age Defying Hydration
Sun Care
Wellness in Beauty
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April 29, 2021 – Virtual Event
ellness in Beauty is one. Consumers, brands, and scientists recognize that our body, its functions, and its appearance are interconnected. Feeling well is often associated with looking good! During this two-hour event you will have the chance to listen to experts taking a deep dive into wellness and beauty market trends as well as how ingredients and nutraceuticals affect beauty—the inside/out trend. Our speakers will also explore the science that explains why our senses can influence our look and take on holistic wellness and its connection with nature and beauty.
Skin Beauty Green Cosmetics
PROTAMEEN Organized and Moderated by Dr. Giorgio Dell'Acqua, Ph.D. – NYSCC Chair-Elect
Prof. Paul L. Bigliardi, M.D. – Director of the Dermato-Allergy Division, Dept of Dermatology, University of Minnesota
Supplier of specialty materials!
Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM
Dr. Sophia Kogan, M.D. – Co-founder and Chief Medical Advisor – Nutrafol
Jennifer Walsh – Wellness Columnist and Founder of Nature GreenPrint
Leor Fay Tal – Technical Marketing Leader – Gattefosse
2021 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org March 8-31
A Celebration of Women in Science – On Demand Content
March 25
Trends and Formulation Strategies for Gentle Cleansing – Virtual Event
March 31
A Celebration of Women in Science Live Roundtable – Virtual Event
April 29
Wellness in Beauty – Virtual Event
May TBD
Exposome – Virtual Event
June TBD
Antioxidant Symposium – Virtual Event
July TBD September TBD
NYSCC Golf Outing – Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ All About the Skin – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ
October TBD
NYSCC Culinary Event – Location TBD
October TBD
Indie 360 2.0 – Location TBD
November 10-11 November 12 10
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Virtual Day
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