February 2020 • Vol. 26 • Issue 2
I
Naturality
…by Carine Mainzer
n a world becoming increasingly eco-conscious, the word naturality has become part of our regular if not daily vocabulary. This word, which may sound trivial at first sight, harbors different meanings and applicability depending on the individual or institution employing it. In the last few years, nature has been at the center of many conversations, especially from an environmental perspective with climate change being a worldwide concern. In an effort to improve our impact on the planet and also on ourselves, consumers have started to shift their habits with an increasing demand for naturalness, locally sourced beauty products that are respectful to the environment and human health. This phenomenon is not just a trend, it has become a lifestyle, synonymous with healthiness, that has been observed in industrialized countries for some years now not only in the personal care arena, but also in the food, textile, and automotive industries.1 Most of the established personal care companies have adopted sustainability programs. To name a few: Johnson & Johson has a Citizenship and Sustainability approach; L’Oréal runs a Sharing Beauty With All (SBWA) program; and Natura Brasil is a founding member of the Union for Bioethical Trade.2-4 In the past several years, new brands have appeared with a strong imprint in naturality, which is not only reflected in their actions and products, but also in their name. Yarok, which means “green” or “pure” in Hebrew, develops organic and sustainable hair care products. Ajali, a brand from Nigeria, whose name means “red earth” or “sand” in the local language, produces handmade natural cosmetics with local ingredients from West Africa and in tight partnerships with local farmers.1 China is also joining this movement with companies sourcing natural ingredients (Maysu) pushing for a change in consumer habits. According to a Mintel survey, 45% of Chinese women are
planning to use products with natural herbs or plants in the next few years.1 Similar to the brands, cosmetic ingredient suppliers that produce chemical, biotechnological, or natural ingredients have joined the movement and communicate more and more about the implementation of naturality in their products. As explained recently by Monique Simmonds from the Kew Royal Botanical Gardens, plants have an aura that have fascinated individuals for years, especially because plants are very clever and have developed several ways to adapt and protect themselves from harmful situations, making them attractive materials for consumers.5 In the quest of mastering nature and offering natural materials that would bear the strength of Mother Nature, but be safe and respectful of our planet, suppliers need to follow some specifications and be knowledgeable about local and global cosmetic regulations, which can sometimes alter the choice of the raw material. For instance, in some countries, certain plants are considered as medical drugs and thus cannot be used to develop a cosmetic ingredient. Additionally, sourcing natural resources is also subjected to local laws on biodiversity preservation (the Nagoya protocol).6-7 A great example for sourcing naturally-derived products is the Amazon forest, which is home to many exotic plants with a variety of beneficial actions, but whose supply needs to be closely monitored to avoid both plant toxicity and species disappearance. Interestingly, one approach followed more and more, and advertised by companies and raw material suppliers, is the collaboration with local populations to cultivate and/or supply local plants in a respectful way. Lastly, another aspect associated with naturally-derived products is the variability they can present. Unlike chemically
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