Suston #12

Suston SUSTAINABLE OUTDOOR NEWS / SUMMER 2023

INGREDIENT

BRANDS Meet material maker sustainability pioneers

CIRCULARITY

DÉJÀ VU? How far has Outdoor come, or is it just going in circles?

END “ECOCIDE” The fight to equate ecosystem destruction with genocide

#12

THINK TANK THOUGHTS Four years since Outdoor Futures

HIGG FAQ

Still the best LCA tool around?

PARTNER PRESENTATIONS Good brands share good stories

Are you ready yet?

PFAS restrictions are finally coming.

EU Textile Strategy plans comprehensive PFAS regulations.

With our many years of experience in the field of PFAS-free materials, we look forward to exchanging ideas and working together.

Let’s get in touch!

Visit us at the Coffee Bar in the Sustainability Hub at OutDoor by ISPO. June 04–06 2023, Atrium 3, MOC Munich

PHOTO: RICHARD BORD

PHOTO: STÉPHANE ROBIN

EDITORIAL & CONTENTS

46 Leading Change, or Reacting to It?

10 News

The latest in Outdoor.

14 Interview

NGO takes on marine plastic waste.

I

Gabriel Arthur, Editor-in-chief

18 Ingredient Brands

From well-known to obscure, meet Outdoor’s material makers.

22 Stop Ecocide

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PHOTO: ISTOCK

n 2019, I took part in the think tank Outdoor Futures where an international team of sustainability experts drafted a roadmap and vision for the industry.

In this issue we look back at the discussions. Today, I can see that many of our forecasts have started to happen – which is fantastic – but none of us predicted a global pandemic, logistical chaos, and a war in Europe.

There is a strong urge across society to go back to the business-as-usual of 2019.

Stock markets must go up, inflation must come down and everyone in the middle class should afford to vacation in Thailand.

I think that instead we should make strategies for “change-as-usual,” because the science shows we're likely heading full speed into unknown terrain.

During the pandemic, a CEO of a large outdoor retailer told me: “I am working 95% with solving daily problems.” Many others said the same. Now, looking back, the pandemic taught us that a challenge of this magnitude could actually be ovecome.

What if we address the global environmental crises in the same way and spend 95% of our time and energy to solve them?

I think it is a question of timing. Either we do it now, in a thoughtful strategic manner.

Or events force us to do it in the near future - in a state of panic. The choice is still ours to make.

The fight to make ecosystem destruction an international crime.

28 Going in Circles

Deep dive into outdoor industry’s efforts towards circularity.

38 Higg School

FAQs on apparel and footwear’s greatest impact tool: Higg.

40 Think Tank Revisited

Four years on, how is Outdoor Future’s vision progressing?

46 Outdoor Utopia?

40 Suston Editor-in-chief: Gabriel Arthur, gabriel.arthur@norragency.com Editor: Jonathan Eidse Art director: Susan Larsen & Viktor Meidal Cover illustration: Kicki Fjell Editorial advisory board: Arne Strate, Katy Stevens, Joel Svedlund sustonmagazine.com

Sustainability in the cradle of Europe’s outdoor community.

59 Program

Sustainability at OutDoor

by ISPO Munich.

Partner cooperation and sales: Victoria Reim, victoria.reim@norragency.com Suston is published by NORR Agency. norragency.com, info@norragency.com C/o Impact Hub Stockholm, Jakobsbergsgatan 22, SE-111 44 Stockholm

suston – 3

OBSERVATION

Refuge in Ascents

BY JONATHAN EIDSE PHOTO MIYA TSUDOME

FOR MANY, news from Afghanistan has faded into memory following new conflicts in Ukraine and now Sudan. But while the impatient gaze of the world may have moved on, Afghans continue their struggle to pick up the pieces since the Taliban regained power. Women most of all.

Ascend is an international not-for-profit on a mission to use the power of sport to “help young women climb to their potential.” It was founded in Afghanistan in 2014, at a time when despite the slow withdrawal of US troops, basic human rights of women and girls in Afghanistan were largely protected.

“Growing up in a society that is male-dominated, you always are reminded that you are weak,” shares Mina Bakhshi, one of the women who joined Ascend.

“And to me that’s why I started climbing. To prove to myself that I am powerful – mentally and physically.”

Ascend’s founder and executive director, Marina LeGree, is an avid outdoor enthusiast. And as such, she knows first-hand the power of the mountains to instill a sense of strength and confidence.

“It starts with girls believing they have a path, they have their choices,” shares Marina LeGree, before continuing: “And that’s what I saw taken away in a single day.”

The Taliban quickly reasserted authority over the country in 2021 following the full withdrawal of the US, reinstating elements of Sharia law that stripped women and young girls of the rights that they had secured.

“We went from being an organization empowering girls in Afghanistan to an organization evacuating and resettling refugees,” recalls Marina LeGree.

Ascend was able to find placements for five women in North Carolina, where they have begun building a community with other climbers. The recently released short film titled “Ascend,” produced by Patagonia, follows these young women and their journey to (and up) the birthplace of modern climbing: Yosemite.

OBSERVATION

Slowing Down the Melt

BY ANDREAS BJÖRKMAN PHOTO OSKAR KIHLBORG

COVERING GLACIERS WITH large tarpaulins to prevent melting has been done in several places in the world before. But doing so with a blanket of wool was something that had never been tested when adventurer Oskar Kihlborg, glaciologist Erik Huss and their team first tried it in the summer of 2021. The location was Sweden’s southernmost glacier, Helags. The blanket was small - just 40 square meters - and served as a test.

“After just one month, the wool blanket had prevented two meters of melting. We were very surprised at how well it worked,” says Oskar Kihlborg.

The world’s glaciers are melting faster than ever, and there is no way to slow down this process on a large scale with, for example, something like wool blankets. But the successful test had another main purpose, namely to raise the issue to the broader public. The wool blanket has become a successful communication concept for Oskar Kihlborg and his team, and the project has been featured in several major media outlets.

“We know that this will not save the world’s glaciers, but it is important to highlight what is happening in our local area due to climate change.”

In April 2023, a new blanket of wool was laid, which will last until September. This time, four hundred square meters of Björling’s glacier near Kebnekaise, Sweden’s highest mountain, will be covered. The idea is that it can be reused several times, and it does not emit plastic particles as ordinary tarpaulins risk doing. ”We have used Swedish wool, without additives, which would otherwise have been burned or buried,” explains Oskar Kihlborg.

Popup Forest Meets Concrete Jungle

BY JONATHAN EIDSE PHOTO KAT HARRIS

“WE DEFINE CITIES as the absence of nature,” says urban

ecologist Mariellé Anzelone. And this is something she is bent on changing with the PopUP Forest project.

PopUP Forests began in 2018 when a small collection of native plant species was transported from Brooklyn directly to New Yorkers in Times Square by peddle power. It drew enthusiastic attention and many questions, but can such a small act really make a difference?

Mariellé Anzelone is convinced that it does, and points to the concept of “biophilia,” which refers to humanity’s essential relationship and need for a connection to nature.

“Even just the visible presence of nature matters: Postsurgery patients with tree-filled vistas experienced less pain, swifter recoveries, and shorter hospital stays. In Tokyo, walkable green space added years to the lives of senior citizens. Outdoor plantings in high-density areas were shown to reduce crime. This is all biophilia at work.”

Yet despite the growing evidence of the benefits of urban green spaces, Mariellé Anzelone notes that these same spaces have been under threat for a very long time. Alongside some successes, such as New York City’s commendable planting of 1 million trees over an eight-year period, countless others have been cut down to create parks and sports fields, and millions of Americans currently lack access to green spaces.

“We all depend on native plant species for a functioning ecosystem, and yet we never even think about it. This loss of biodiversity is so abstract, with charts and figures. But that’s not how you win people over. You do so by telling a really good story.”

For Mariellé Anzelone, preserving and increasing urban nature to replace “dead zones” with PopUP Forests’ biodiverse life oasis is one such story that can resonate with people emotionally.

“I don’t think nature should be a destination, it should be embedded in people’s daily lives. That’s why if it were up to me, a better definition of a city will one day be a place where nature is intertwined with urban. To get there, let’s protect the nature that we have and then let’s work harder to get nature out to where people are.”

OBSERVATION

“Sometimes referred to the 'Green Heart' of Europe...

Ukraine contains habitats that are home to 35% of Europe's biodiversity, including 70,000 plant and animal species, many of them rare, relict, and endemic.”

PHOTO: PERFROMANCE DAYS

Dr. Bohdan Vykhor, CEO of WWF Ukraine

PHOTO:UPPAREL-KATHMANDU

NEWS

OUTDOOR BEST IN RESALE

The latest Resale Report by ThredUp shows that outdoor products once again top resale demand in 2023, with products like Fjällräven backpacks, Patagonia vests, and SmartWool’s track jackets among the “hottest items.”

IN-STORE RECYCLING SERVICE NEAR YOU Fans of Australian brand Kathmandu can now drop off their old garments in bins found at 24 participating stores. The initiative is a collaboration with the textile and recycling company Upparel. Once collected, the item's suitability for reuse or recycling is determined.

Items fit for reuse are distributed to Upparel’s charity partners, while the rest are repurposed or shredded into new materials.

Fair Welcomes Footwear Performance Days is known as the leading platform for functional textiles. This year, it also invites the footwear market, and seeks to retain the title of the leading sustainability platform: The Performance Forum, for example, will specifically ensure that the appropriate criteria to promote sustainability are met. This entails that all submitted materials must, among other criteria, guarantee at least 50 percent recycled content (GRS-certified - Global Recycled Standard), and meet GOTS-, CSS-, OCS-, RDS- or RWS- standards, or ensure bio-based treatments and finishes.

In addition, the fair will place great importance on other areas of sustainability. The fair’s Focus Topics have long been heavily oriented towards environmental social awareness, with renowned industry experts regularly providing information on exciting developments as part of the “sustain & innovate” conference.

“We believe that the sportswear industry in particular has an important role to play in preserving the planet and in protecting nature, for which we develop our products," explains Lena Weimer, Senior Marketing Manager at Performance Days.

"Together we can bring about change.”

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Expanding outdoor recreation access while fighting climate change and preserving biodiversity are some of the key benefits of natural climate solutions, according to a new policy report titled "A Vision for Protecting Nature," released by Outdoor Alliance (OA). OA is a non-profit working on behalf of the human-powered outdoor recreation community to protect public lands and waters.

PHOTO: NANDMPHOTOGRAPHY

A "WIN-WIN-WIN"

UK’s First World Surfing Reserve

May 12th saw the inauguration of the 12th World Surfing Reserve and the first to be found in the United Kingdom: The North Devon World Surfing Reserve.

Spearheaded by Save the Waves Coalition, World Surfing Reserve seeks to preserve notable wave breaks and their surroundings for future generations, and protect unique environmental and cultural aspects of the coastal communities found there. North Devon joins the ranks of other surfing reserves in Malibu (US), Manly Beach (Australia), and Playa Hermosa (Costa Rica).

NEWS

PHOTO: ISTOCK

"THE NEW ERA - BUSINESS AND BEYOND"

Is Green Hydrogen Part of the Solution?

Heat is used for a variety of textile finishing processes, and the source of this heat most often comes from the combustion of fossil fuels. A 3-year project known as the WasserStoff Project (“Water Fabric”) is exploring whether “green” hydrogen can provide an alternative.

Green hydrogen is produced using zero-carbon renewables, and emits only water vapor when combusted.

Is the motto to the 2023 annual European Outdoor Summit, scheduled on the 28-29th of September in Berlin.

Through a mix of presentations and social events, the aim is to stimulate debate, discussion, and ultimately improve business practices and promote sustainable growth and innovation.

PHOTO: PEAK PERFORMANCE

TEXTILE EXCHANGE CONFERENCE 2023

MONTHLIES’ NEW BACKPACKING BFF

Last year, the Swedish brand Peak Performance ran a trial where it sent out 100 menstrual cups and containers to volunteer adventurers. The airtight and stainless-steel container is designed to enable proper menstrual cup sterilization on multi-day trips into the backcountry, and was made in cooperation with Klean Kanteen. A carabiner keeps it close at hand. Following feedback from the volunteers, Peak Performance has decided to offer both the menstrual cup and container to the public.

The Textile Exchange Conference is a platform for sustainability-focused discussions among textile industry leaders, promoting responsible production and highlighting innovations in low-impact materials and processes. This year's conference will take place in London October 23-27th.

MERGE PEOPLE AND PLANET

A

ny introduction to sustainability will present two of the main considerations as being people and planet. But due to the evolution of corporate sustainability, the two issues are often managed in quite separate silos, resulting in an unbalanced approach.

Environmental sustainability hogs the limelight, receiving far more time and resources. As outdoor enthusiasts ourselves, one reason for this may be due to our intrinsic connection to the environment. Social sustainability, in contrast, is a lot less accessible.

However, new policies are quickly turning what used to be “nice to have” sustainability into compliance. For example, the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) will include social and environmental obligations down to the extraction of raw materials.

Measures being discussed include required remediations for affected parties and expansion of civil liability for non-compliance. These are significant changes and may require a shake up in the way that social sustainability is viewed and integrated into organisations and the prioritisation of related budgets.

Going forward, the two sides to sustainability need to be brought together whereby each environmental topic must also be viewed through a social lens, and vice versa. This could be approached in many ways, but a good starting point could be an adapted version of the Doughnut economics model. Here, relevant social boundaries are visualised at the centre of the planetary boundaries, with the centre representing a responsible operating space.

By using global datasets and consistent scoring frameworks for both sets of issues, organisations could mitigate or remedy human rights or environmental risks in the same way.

Dr. Katy Stevens Head of CSR & Sustainability, EOG suston – 11

NEWS

American outdoor retailer REI received the top spot on Forbes’ list of Best Brands for Social Impact 2023 for its work with climate and diversity action.

The list includes 300 companies that have been rated for their social and environmental efforts in a consumer survey.

NEW HUMAN RIGHTS TOOLKIT

The non-profit Social and Labor Convergence Program (SLCP) has released a Human Rights Due Diligence (HRDD) Toolkit, which aids in implementing mandatory HRDD and respecting human rights in supply chains with the help of SLCP assessments.

PHOTO: ISTOCK

REI TOPS FORBES LIST

Camber’s DEI Gold Standard THE OUTDOOR INDUSTRY has historically strug-

gled with diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) issues, particularly in terms of representation of underrepresented groups such as people of color, women, and LGBTQ+ individuals. However, in recent years, there has been a growing awareness and effort to address these issues.

Camber Outdoors is a non-profit organization in the United States that promotes diversity, equity, and inclusion in the outdoor industry through industry leadership, community building, and job placement initiatives. It works with over 200 companies, including many familiar outdoor brands such as Osprey, Scarpa, Petzl, Hydro Flask, and Tentree.

Since 2020, the Camber Survey System has been tracking the DEI progress of its partners with the goal to “measure progress across committed Camber partners in creating inclusive cultures, equitable, supportive systems and the attraction and retention of a diversity of talent.” The results of the survey are published in Camber’s annual Workplace Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Report,

232,000 ha 91% OF LAND COULD be rewilded if Edinburgh went vegan.

Source: Plant Based Treaty

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developed in cooperation with Claremont Graduate University.

Its third and latest report found substantial partner progress towards offering inclusive benefits and in promoting employees from underrepresented communities (10% and 8% increase respectively compared to 2020). On the other hand, nearly half of all employees reported that they feel they are not paid equitably for their work (49%), and perceptions of their organization’s professional development of underrepresented communities remained low in most categories.

“The Camber Survey System strives to be an industry gold standard providing the necessary insights to evoke systemic change – pathways for the underrepresented and ultimately making the outdoor industry – workplaces and spaces – inclusive for all,” says Tiffany Smith, CEO of Camber Outdoors.

The findings, based on the responses of 50 Camber partners and nearly 3,000 employees, capture perspectives of both the organization’s executives and its employees.

OF OUR READERS are “very likely” to recommend Suston to a friend. Source: 2023 Suston Reader Survey

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: AKU

Look Behind Aku’s Label Local, traceable, transparent: Aku has always been committed to ensuring maximum transparency regarding the production methods and origin of its products.

B

ehind the Label is the name of a project that fully represents the spirit of Aku in order to the end user relationship. A responsible commitment that comes from being, for over 40 years, a direct producer in the footwear sector. An advantage not only in the product quality, but also in the capacity to provide customers with all information on the origin of the individual components of what they choose.

A very special condition that makes Aku in a very special position summarized in the sentence “nothing to hide”.

A specific choice of company policy has always involved the use of raw materials mainly from local suppliers, able to pro-

vide reliable information on the origin and characteristics of the materials, ensuring full traceability of every single product component. Eventually, those that browse through the Aku website, have the chance to find a specific button Traceability next to every single style sheet. This button is the door to drop behind the label to discover where every product component come from and this is not enough.

After a long and severe procedure, Aku has certified, first in the outdoor footwear industry, the level of emissions of CO2 for every model in the collection. Another step in order to make Aku fully transparent and responsible for every single step people move with their shoes.

A LOW IMPACT COLLAB In 2014 Aku started its first low-impact project. Friul Rubber embraced our choice and started a project to recycle its production waste and reuse it for the midsole material it supplied to Aku. This took some time, but eventually the RECY EVA material was developed and used for the first time in our Bellamont collection. The connection and shared vision of Aku and Friul Rubber is an example of what two companies can do to make a lower impact and more transparent production process.

OutDoor by ISPO: H3.102 www.aku.it suston – 13

EVENTS

A Greener Event OutDoor by ISPO in Munich will be the main industry event in Europe this summer. Lena Haushofer from ISPO shares how the event itself is becoming more sustainable.

LENA HAUSHOFER Executive Director OutDoor by ISPO and ISPO Munich.

OUTDOOR BY ISPO

From 4 to 6 June, 2023.

At the MOC Event and Order Center in Munich, Germany. ispo.com/en/ outdoor

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SAME AS LAST YEAR, OutDoor by ISPO will take place at the MOC halls north of Munich city center.

When this international event was launched by the European Outdoor Group and ISPO in 2019, the two partners shared a vision that sustainability should be at the heart of it – also the event arrangements itself.

The initiatives are part of a larger transition at Messe München, the company behind ISPO and several other international trade shows. Where one overarching goal is to achieve climate neutrality by 2030.

“For example, all paid visitor tickets include C02-compensation for the traveling, in collaboration with our partner Myclimate. We will have many prebuilt booth solutions made of mostly circular material and the sizes are limited to 120 square meters, which saves material. Also, the Sustainabilty Hub in Atrium 3 is constructed by a subsidiary company using regional production and environmentally friendly features,” says Lena Haushofer, Executive Director at OutDoor by ISPO and ISPO Munich.

“Another example is that we will only offer vegetarian and vegan food in restaurants and at the official parties.”

Are there some highlights or themes you would like to mention?

“Besides the seminars and panel discussions on the stage, the European Outdoor Group also offers many interesting presentations in a separate room, D106.

And of course, many of our exhibitors share their innovations and solutions in the different booths.

“Also, I think that events like this allows us to build sustainable relationships by meeting up in person. Together, we can open the horizon to new ideas and cooperations, and together push for sustainable business models.”

647 EXHIBITORS showcase their products at OutDoor by ISPO 2023.

EVENTS

Hub in the Center THE FIRST SEED was sown already in 2010. Today,

the Sustainability Hub at OutDoor by ISPO and ISPO Munich has developed into one of the major get-togethers for the sustainability-minded outdoor professionals in Europe. Here, visitors can get up to date with the speakers on stage, large poster exhibitions, daily presentations, and numerous conversations.

“In 2010, I was working with the boardsports magazine 7 Sky, and we created what we called a Greenroom at ISPO Munich. This was followed by other concepts at the trade shows, all with the idea to highlight pioneering brands, products, and initiatives. From 2019 and onwards it has been called the Sustainability Hub and has become a hotspot at every trade show since,” says Cira Riedel, co-founder of Greenroom Voice, which arranges the Hub in collaboration with ISPO and European Outdoor Group.

“This summer, we will be in the atrium above the main entrance. As before, we will have our daily Transparency Tours at 11 am. I go around and present all mini-booths and posters, and around

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EXHIBITORS SHARE their CSR stories via posters and live presentations in the Sustainability Hub.

five representatives per day join us to tell their story. The audience is listening via headphones,” says Anna Rodewald, the other co-founder of Greenroom Voice, and continues: “Over the years, we have had different themes, and gradually we have broadened the scope since so many interesting things are going on simultaneously. But a lot revolves around traceability, transparency, circularity, and climate. This is also what comes up most, when we have talked to partners over the last year.”

Suston Magazine is a regular exhibitor at the Sustainability Hub - its editor-in-chief Gabriel Arthur explains why: “For Suston it is a natural. No other European event gathers so many key people from outdoor and sustainability. I think it is great to meet people in person, whom I otherwise have a lot of contact with via e-mails, digital meetings, LinkedIn, etc.

Nothing beats sitting down together over a coffee and sharing thoughts. And I’m always sure to get many good ideas for future articles!”

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THE TRANSPARENCY TOUR at 11 am each day. Meet Suston on Tuesday, June 6.

CIRA RIEDEL

Co-founder Greenroom Voice

ANNA RODEWALD Co-founder Greenroom Voice

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CULTURE

S E V A W E V I T I S PO

Mediterranean called e th of te sta d ba e th d an ng rfi su The passion for founded an NGO at bin Ru de nt Fo rt be Al d an iva Ol i for action. Jord of people across Spain. that today reaches out to thousands PONS N A.

BY GABRIEL ARTHUR PHOTO FABIA

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PHOTO: KANTAURIKO OLATUA

S

ome years after they finished their studies in industrial engineering, the two childhood friends and later surfing buddies started to reflect on how much plastic litter there was on the beaches around Tarragona where they lived, on the Mediterranean coast south of Barcelona. Not only bottles, bags and other trash, but also thousands of colorful plastic pellets.

Both Jordi Oliva and Albert Font de Rubinat had been designing and building surfboards with less environmental impact. Cleaning up the local beaches seemed like a natural next step.

“For us, surfing was about enjoying the connection with the sea and the environment with people around you... and the ‘surfing scene’ wasn’t reflecting that at the time,” recalls Albert Font de Rubinat.

One beach clean-up led to another. The positive response made the two friends take a bold step: In 2017, they started their own NGO called Good Karma Projects.

“It was growing organically, people connected with the cause and our storytelling from surfing.

Also, people who were not surfers joined as volunteers,” says Jordi Oliva.

“The rumor spread. We were contacted by a local school, inviting us to talk about the project for their students. We brought both marine litter and surfboards, and then the kids came with us on a beach clean-up. We wanted to share our passion for the sea and surfing, and not only stay in the classrooms,” continues Jordi Oliva.

“Until today, we and our volunteers have met over 5,000 kids, and hosted over one hundred school workshops.”

Citizen scientists

Good Karma Projects now has four employees in-

cluding the two founders and over 40 volunteers.

They have hosted more than two hundred beach clean-ups and have collected nearly 30,000 liters of waste. But what about the colorful plastic pellets? Already in 2018, Good Karma Projects had started to document and investigate these on the beaches around Tarragona. Albert Font de Rubinat explains: “They are also called nurdles or mermaid’s tears and are used as a raw material in the manufacture of plastic items. Due to their small size and poor practices, pellets are often ‘lost’ at all stages of the plastic production and distribution chain.”

In February 2019, the organization estimated that there could be up to 90 million pellets on one local beach only. Good Karma Projects started to engage in citizen science, collecting data with the help of volunteers. Last year, it conducted a complete scientific study in collaboration with Barcelona University (UB), to create a knowledge base around the state of plastic pellet pollution on the south coast of Catalonia and the north of the Balearic Islands.

“In May this year we were invited to Brussels to the European Parliament, together with Surfrider Foundation Europe. We presented our research, and we hope that this will make the politicians react. The Mediterranean is the most plastic polluted sea in the world, and the pellets are a huge part of the problem,” says Jordi Oliva.

The good karma keeps spreading. And one crucial part of it is still the surfing,” continues Jordi Oliva.

“There are seldom big waves where we live.

Therefore, it is mandatory that we go surfing whenever the possibilities arise. We need it to charge the batteries and re-connect with why we started this.”

Daily operations at Good Karma Projects: Workshops for school kids, collecting plastic pellets for reseachers – and surfing to connect with nature.

suston – 17

INGREDIENT BRANDS

WHAT ARE THE INGREDIENTS?

What is the difference between ingredient brands and other materials? Can ingredient brands be an asset for outdoor brands in their sustainability efforts? And can such partnerships carry risks? Suston turns to the experts to answer these questions.

BY GABRIEL ARTHUR

TOMAS VUCUREVIC

Founder and Managing Director, Braind

MARTIN KÖSSLER CEO, Huginbiz

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M

embranes, zippers, leather, outer fabric, buttons, velcro, rubber soles, insoles... products in the outdoor world are a puzzle of materials. Each such puzzle piece in a hiking backpack, for example, is likely to have a name, at least familiar to the designer and purchaser. But some of the materials - or ingredients - are known to many more people. If you ask retail staff or experienced outdoor enthusiasts, they will probably be able to list over twenty material names.

Brands like Gore-Tex, Sympatex, Vibram, Polartec, Primaloft etc. Other materials, meanwhile, are completely unknown in the same circles.

“The first category is usually called ingredient brands - the rest are what we call ‘branded ingredients,’ or, materials with a name,” says Tomas Vucurevic, Founder and Managing Director of Braind, one of the industry’s leading experts in brand development and marketing in this niche.

Known within the wider community

There is no clear-cut line between the first and second categories, says Tomas Vucurevic.

“But you do not suddenly become an ingredient brand by self-declaration. You must bring something special to the market and think and act like a brand, communicating with persistence based on a clear, attractive promise.

“One of the most common mistakes is that companies address that too superficially. They believe putting a hangtag or a label on their fabric will do the job. But if you continue to think like a supplier, you will remain a supplier.”

Martin Kössler is CEO of the consulting firm Huginbiz, with several clients among ingredient brands. He also leads a network for Nordic brands, with members such as Recco, Mips and others. He agrees that marketing is a key differentiator.

“A material supplier focuses on the customer’s purchasing organization. An ingredient brand also focuses on the sales and marketing organizations of its customers. They want to create demand - the pull effect - for their customers, by helping to process the downstream. This often means speaking directly to the user of the finished product, the outdoor enthusiast.”

Another important difference is the level of innovation, says Martin Kössler.

“Just like in the automotive industry and many other industries, innovation is mainly driven by large subcontractors. Few outdoor brands are big enough or have the expertise and manufacturing resources to initiate real development themselves.

This also applies to sustainability.”

Performance and/or sustainability?

Tomas Vucurevic has seen and participated in many brand developments over the years. Between 2001 and 2010 he was Global Brand Manager at W.L. Gore’s Fabrics Division, responsible for the Gore-Tex and Windstopper brands. He then went on to set up his own consultancy, Braind, which has helped brands such as Primaloft, Terracare and Polygiene. Looking back, Tomas Vucurevic identifies three distinct phases in the textile industry.

“In the beginning, the focus was on performance.

Companies held patents on innovations that pro-

vided a unique performance benefit that was not available elsewhere. These innovations made the finished products better. In the outdoor industry, it might be making products waterproof, windproof, more durable or better insulated.”

The next phase began around 2011 with a focus on sustainability, says Tomas Vucurevic.

“That’s when, for example, Aquafil developed Econyl, which is made from recycled nylon. In the last ten years, many ingredient brands have broadened their focus from performance to purpose.”

The third and newest phase is about eco-designed and bio-based ingredients.

“At the beginning of this movement, the performance aspect was secondary and some very eco-minded host brands settled for lower quality, as the materials were bio-based and more sustainable,” says Tomas Vucurevic.

But there is a risk in leaving out what has been the core of ingredient brands: Performance. How does an ordinary customer of an outdoor brand react if a shell jacket is not resistant to water and wind? Performance might move from a point of differentiation to a point of parity, but bio-based materials still need to meet the performance expectations of the end user. It’s really about what you promise to the customer and how you are able to deliver on that.”

transparency or reducing CO2 emissions, it’s in the supply chain that the big potential - and the big risks - lie. As ingredient brands shift their focus towards sustainability, they can become a central part of an outdoor brand’s path to achieving its goals. Sympatex is one of the earliest such companies to profile itself in sustainability.

“Around 80% of a garment’s environmental impact is decided in the design phase, so what materials that are selected can make a very big difference,” says Kim Scholze, Chief Sales & Marketing Officer at Sympatex, adding that the company not only contributes to traceability and more sustainable materials.

“With the knowledge that we have acquired over the last 30 years, we can support our partners with eco-design guidelines, share our knowledge and connect to the right people within the industry.”

The focus on sustainability means that brands like Sympatex can have different communication goals, compared to a fixation on performance.

Raising important industry issues and reaching out to consumers can create a new “pull effect.”

“Education is one important part of our communication. We don’t want anyone to ask explicitly for a Sympatex jacket, but for the most forward thinking and sustainable products.”

Outsourcing to specialists

Today, outdoor brands are under pressure to improve traceability and transparency in their supply chains. After major retailers like REI in the US and Globetrotter in Germany started asking questions, more and more outdoor retailers have followed

When it comes to sustainability, the focus has increasingly shifted to “scope 3” - or over to the textile industry’s suppliers, in layman’s terms..

Whether you’re talking about the need for more

Traceable, transparent, risk management

More and more ingredient brands aim to join the “host brand’s” sustainability sourcing and marketing strategies.

KIM SCHOLZE

Chief Sales & Marketing Officer, Sympatex

INGREDIENT BRANDS

Performance Days in Munich, New York, Portland and Shanghai are important arenas for the ingredient brands to showcase their products.

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suit. At the same time, policymakers are demanding more substantiated green claims. This can benefit ingredient brands that already have full control of their own supply chain and production.

At the same time, there are risks. An important reason why ingredient brands started to get attention was Greenpeace’s Detox campaign, launched in 2011 with the mission to eliminate hazardous chemicals from textile production. In 2015, Greenpeace specifically targeted PFCs with the Detox Outdoor message. One material that was attacked was Gore-Tex, which in turn led to brands such as Patagonia and The North Face also being criticized.

Gore Fabrics chose to collaborate with Greenpeace and in 2017 pledged to step-by-step eliminate PFCs of Environmental Concern from its outdoor weatherproofing laminates.

Depending on who you ask, the events following Detox Outdoor can be an example of either the risk or the strength of tight collaborations between “host brands” and “ingredient brands.” If one falls, it can drag down the other one - or they can help and strengthen each other in times of crises.

“I think the best cases come from companies that have a long-term relationship and very clear expectations and communication. Brand value is a lot about trust. At the end of the day, both sides need to ensure that their brand promises are upheld in a joint appearance. It is a mutual dependency,” says Tomas Vucurevic.

Kim Sholze adds another perspective: That because the larger ingredient brands already work with many outdoor brands, they can initiate collaborations around sustainability. Also, this relation-

ship enables them to get insights from their different partners.

“An ingredient brand can take a more neutral position and strengthen cooperation within the industry. We learn from our brand partners, the retailers, and the end consumers. At the same time, we also look at other industries to exchange information and solutions. We bring the knowledge from this into circulation and establish connections and synergies. Especially in the textile industry, this is a very decisive step. Water and CO2-saving dyeing technologies, for example, are associated with incredibly high MOQs [Suston: MOQ = minimum order quantity] and sustainable purchasing practices require an early commitment from the entire supply chain.

Supporting communication

Another advantage that ingredient brands say they bring to the table is communication. Both the educational parts, but also marketing toward the end-consumers.

“Generally, we support with a wide range of communication tools to share this information as informatively and emotionally as possible. We are more than suppliers. Our values and a service promise should give our brand partners significant added value”, says Kim Sholze.

And last but not least, an additional advantage is increased transparency.

“Material selection has a very big impact on the CO2 footprint and overall, in terms of social and environmental sustainability. It is our responsibility to be transparent.”

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: HOHENSTEIN

Redefining Supply Chain Responsibility To meet the requirements of the Supply Chain Due Diligence Act, Hohenstein guides companies on their journey towards responsible and sustainable supply chains.

I

n our globalized world, complex supply chains are commonplace.

With the Supply Chain Due Diligence Act, the German government has set the course for increased sustainability and corporate responsibility. The law obliges companies to respect and comply with human rights and environmental standards throughout their supply chains. As an experienced partner, Hohenstein supports companies in meeting these requirements and promoting sustainable business practices.

Hohenstein brings over 75 years of experience in the textile and apparel industry, offering a comprehensive portfolio of solutions to comply with legal requirements in the area of supply chain due diligence while remaining competitive. Let Hohenstein accompany you on your journey towards a sustainable and responsible supply chain and benefit from the expertise in implementing due diligence obligations.

Services for your success:

• Risk Analyses & Supply Chain Management: Identify risks along your supply chain and develop effective management strategies.

• Supplier Assessment & Development: Assistance in selecting and developing responsible suppliers in accordance with Supply Chain Due Diligence Act requirements.

• Training & Workshops: Ensure that your employees understand and can implement Supply Chain Due Diligence Act requirements.

• Social & Environmental Audits: Independent audits help to ensure compliance with legal requirements.

• Certifications & Labels: Oeko-Tex Made in Green, Oeko-Tex Organic Cotton, Oeko-Tex Step and Hohenstein Quality Label highlight your commitment to environmental protection and social responsibility.

•S ustainability Consulting: Joint de-

velopment of sustainable business strategies based on circular economy principles, waste reduction, resource efficiency, and innovation promotion.

With the holistic Hohenstein approach, you can shape your supply chain without losing sight of your own business goals.

In summary:

By relying on Hohenstein’s customized and holistic solutions, you meet the requirements of the Supply Chain Due Diligence Act. Ensure sustainability and compliance in your supply chain and strengthen your competitiveness at the same time together with the Hohenstein experts. Show your customers and partners that you are investing in a responsible and successful future for your company.

Outdoor by ISPO: A3.1, Stand 124 hohenstein.com suston – 21

ADVOCACY

NEW LAW FOR NATURE?

Is it far-fetched for crimes against nature to have the same judicial status as genocide, crimes against humanity, war crimes and crimes of aggression? “Already begun!” says Stop Ecocide International.

BY ALICIA SCHUMACHER

PELLA THIEL Co-Founder, End Ecocide Sweden

JOJO MEHTA

Co-Founder & Executive Director, Stop Ecocide International

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T

he past year has been tumultuous, says ecologist Pella Thiel. Suston meets her at her farm in Ingarö outside of Stockholm. The newborn lambs graze in the grass. While the farm requires a lot of work, another task takes up most of Pella Thiel’s time: Spreading the concept of Ecocide and Earth law. She is one of the founders of End Ecocide Sweden, which is part of the international network Stop Ecocide International. This past year, she has co-authored a book on the rights of nature and participated in countless presentations, meetings, and workshops.

“I have been involved in this since 2012. For a long time, many people thought that we were either naive or far too radical. But a couple of years ago, the wind started to turn. Even newspapers like the Financial Times and Le Monde drew attention to our work to equate Ecocide with Genocide. And in the last year, politicians have finally woken up.”

Urgency behind renewed engagement

Ecocide means mass damage and destruction of ecosystems. The term was mentioned for the first time during the UN’s first international environmental conference, the Stockholm Conference, in

1972. Sweden’s Prime Minister at the time, Olof Palme, named large-scale environmental destruction as ecocide in his welcome speech. When the Rome Statute of the International Criminal Court was established in the 90s, ecocide was close to becoming one of the international crimes, along with genocide, crimes against humanity, war crimes and crimes of aggression. But ecocide was deleted at the last minute. Recently, however, the issue has gained momentum once again as more and more people and organizations have taken up the fight to make ecocide the fifth international crime.

“The situation for the ecosystems is very acute.

And when we destroy habitats, this also leads to war and conflict. Making ecocide a crime is thus also a way of trying to prevent the other four crimes,” says Pella Thiel.

Legal procedures step by step

For ecocide to become an international crime, it must be added to the Rome Statute of the International Criminal Court. Currently, 123 states have ratified the statute, with notable non-signatories including the US, India, and China. At least one of the States Parties need to propose an amendment, such as adding ecocide, to the statute.

While a formal proposal has not happened yet, several States Parties have already shown their support. Already in 2019, Vanuatu and the Maldives called for consideration of making ecocide the fifth crime. The following year, Belgium was the first European country to raise the issue of ecocide in the International Criminal Court.

Once an amendment is formally proposed and accepted for discussion, negotiation will take place in an ICC’s working group, and ultimately two-thirds of the States Parties are required to be

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PHOTO: ISTOCK

PHOTO: ISTOCK

PHOTO: ALICIA SCHUMACHER

PHOTO: RUATH DAVEY

ADVOCACY

WHAT IS ECOCIDE?

In 2021, The Independent Expert Panel for the Legal Definition of Ecocide proposed the following legal definition of ecocide: “Ecocide” means unlawful or wanton acts committed with knowledge that there is a substantial likelihood of severe and either widespread or longterm damage to the environment being caused by those acts.

Concrete examples of ecocide are, for example, overfishing, oil spills, plastic pollution, oil drilling and release of textile chemicals.

STOP ECOCIDE INTERNATIONAL

Stop Ecocide International was founded in 2017

by British lawyer Polly Higgins and environmental activist Jojo Mehta.

The organization has over 45 teams and associate groups around the world. stopecocide.earth

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in favor of ecocide to become the fifth crime.

The more countries that ratify ecocide as the fifth international crime, the smaller the opportunities would be for the companies that are guilty of largescale environmental destruction. The law would enable the prosecution of those responsible for decisions or actions leading to large-scale environmental destruction.

“These companies have no accountability today.

If, for example, they invest in deforestation, they could potentially be fined, but if it is an international crime, it means that the person responsible for decisions that potentially involve ecocide can be brought to trial. Suddenly, the risk analysis for companies is completely different,” says Pella Thiel.

International grassroots movement

Stop Ecocide International currently drives the global conversation on ecocide law, including speaking at international conferences and with governments worldwide. It also collaborates with politicians, diplomats, lawyers, business leaders, indigenous peoples, and religious groups to make ecocide an international crime.

“I think we are already at the point that while governments might want to sidestep or wait, they are not going to say that they don’t want this. This will look really bad. So, as long as the conversation stays in the public domain, it is actually in some ways the easiest campaign in the world. It is very hard to argue with,” says Jojo Mehta, Co-Founder & Executive Director, Stop Ecocide International.

EU can play a key role

More and more countries have, via motions or full proposals of law, opened to criminalizing ecocide.

At the end of March 2023, the EU Parliament announced its support for the inclusion of ecocide in the EU’s revised environmental crime directive.

In order for it to be established in European legislation, the European Council and the European Commission also need to support the directive.

If this legislation becomes a reality, ecocide will be counted as a crime in all EU countries. That will probably also speed up the process in the International Criminal Court since EU countries make up more than 20 percent of the member states.

“We have a strong faith that within the next couple of years, this will be a concrete conversation at the International Criminal Court. It is entirely possible that this could be adopted within the next five years, certainly before 2030,” says Jojo Mehta.

For Pella Thiel, Jojo Mehta and Stop Ecocide International, the work continues to get governments around the world to stand behind a new international legislation. On the farm at Ingarö, Pella Thiel looks out over the sheep pen and the open, vivid landscape that surrounds it. A beautiful setting, so different from the reality in many other places.

“For many people, forests, and species, it is already too late. But the longer we wait, the more it will be too late for. We often think we have tried everything, but we have not. Making ecocide an international crime is both very powerful and within reach.”

SPONSORED CONTENT RAB

How to Maximize Change British outdoor brands Rab and Lowe Alpine share their CSR efforts in an open and honest approach.

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pplying a Corporate Social Responsibility strategy means taking some serious decisions, leading to widespread change affecting how a company manages its business. Yet, sophisticated strategies won’t do the job all alone. It is hard, daily work, at all levels and all departments, which in the end results in change.

Therefore, and despite already achieving some big steps forward in their environmental and social impact, British outdoor brands Rab and Lowe Alpine are applying a ‘Marginal Gains’ approach.

In 2020, Rab and Lowe Alpine became a Certified Climate Neutral company, aiming for Net Zero by 2030 – one of the first companies in the outdoor industry to do so. This means that Equip has now officially achieved the 4th consecutive year of Climate Neutral Certification.

In 2022, they achieved Fair Wear Leader Status barely two years into their membership. Equip continue to find ways to reduce their impact in every aspect of the business – through the increased use of

renewable energy in their supply chain; to their global Rab Service Centres which carried out 15,416 washes and repairs in 2022; minimizing and recycling packaging; and many more.

“Marginal Gains”

But besides these “Big Wins,” Rab and Lowe Alpine also leave no stone unturned, using a “Marginal Gains” mindset with product development. This means scrutinizing every aspect of every product, making continual changes which go beyond the obvious. These add up to a significant difference in the use of materials, waste minimization, CO2 emissions and the company’s continual journey to achieve Net Zero. Significant increases in 2022 production have resulted in a rise in the company’s overall emissions, but this approach has allowed them to continue to reduce their item-level carbon emissions for the third consecutive year – by 17.6% (against a 2019 baseline) in 2022.

Some concrete examples include Rab’s move to recycled zip pull cord outers in

AW23, affecting impacts of an estimated 957,770 meters of cord! Rab has also removed selected stuff sacks from products, saving an estimated 300,000 meters of cord and tape, 101,560m2 of fabric and 550kg of plastic trims. For AW23, Rab will use over two million zips that contain recycled tape. That’s an estimated 550,000 meters of zipper tape that will move towards recycled.

This approach is at the heart of Equip’s Material Facts activity, which will allow Rab and Lowe Alpine to share product data in a clear, honest and simple way.

Already launched to retail at the end of 2022, Equip will roll the approach out to consumers this summer for Autumn/ Winter 2023. Material Facts will disclose accurate recycled material content (by % weight), fluorocarbon status and production location, with more criteria to be added in the future.

OutDoor by ISPO: H1.302 https://rab.equipment suston – 25

SPONSORED CONTENT GORE-TEX

“Turning garbage into good“ Gore-Tex and Bionic create a PFC-free* laminate – made with recycled plastic waste from the shores of Costa Rica.

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ew 2-layer Gore-Tex Laminates with Bionic textile are made from plastic waste collected from coastal environments**. Gore has collaborated with the Bionic team to support their mission of reducing ocean plastic through community engagement by investing in their plastic recovery and sorting facility in Cóbano, Costa Rica. Through this effort, the operation collects plastic waste so it does not end up in the ocean. Sorted plastic waste is then turned into materials used in the textile component of these new Gore-Tex Laminates.

The development of the laminates is reflective of the Division’s strong commitment to responsible performance.

“The new Gore-Tex Laminates with recycled Bionic textile are a testament to how we can use meaningful scientific innovation to seek bold solutions to complex problems,” says Achim Loeffler, Consumer Fabrics Business Leader, W. L. Gore & Associates. “We believe in the power of working with like-minded brands like 26 – suston

Bionic and Patagonia, enabling us to turn garbage into good.”

Gore provided investment, material science and extensive supply chain knowledge to Bionic, helping to create a robust, scalable supply chain, as well as local recycling infrastructure in the Costa Rican communities.

“This launch is the culmination of years of close collaboration with Gore, the development of novel processing techniques, and the creation of an entirely new and traceable supply chain,” says Tim Coombs, Bionic co-founder.

Patagonia will introduce the first products featuring new Gore-Tex Laminates with recycled Bionic textile next autumn. In future seasons, additional Gore-Tex Brand customers will introduce products featuring the new laminates, all of which are constructed with Gore’s new ePE membrane and 100% recycled Bionic polyester textile, certified according to Global Recycled Standard (GRS).

They meet the highest Gore-Tex quality standards to be durably waterproof,

windproof and breathable, covered by the brand’s renowned Guaranteed to Keep You Dry Promise. *Advances Gore Fabrics goal of being free of PFCs of environmental concern over the lifecycle of its consumer products. In this case, the goal is accomplished using non-fluorinated materials. **Bionic polyester textiles are made from 100% recycled plastic waste, of which about half comes from the area around Cóbano, Costa Rica and the other half from other areas.

COLLECTIVE ACTION Together with the Cóbano community, Gore and Bionic have collaborated to set up: • local waste management system to repurpose plastic waste • roadside and beach recycling stations • organized community beach cleanup events and community outreach • sorting, bailing and flaking facility and collection routes for local institutions

Visit gore-tex.com

SPONSORED CONTENT POLYGIENE

The Quest For Fresh

With its innovative technologies, Polygiene helps reduce washing and energy use. Its mission? To redefine freshness and make sustainability a part of our day-to-day lives.

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or freshness specialists, Polygiene, the connection between our everyday routines and the environment is clear. Whether it’s cycling to work, avoiding excess packaging, or watching energy use, changing the “little things” has a profound impact.

Polygiene calls this approach Mindful Living. It’s about being aware of how everyday actions affect our world and taking responsibility. It’s about making changes. Wash less. Buy less. Buy better.

Committed to keeping it fresh

As well as keeping users smell-free and contributing to a more sustainable clothing industry, Polygiene’s technological innovation encourages more Mindful Living.

Take Polygiene OdorCrunch. It’s an all-natural odor-absorbing solution made from filtered river water and silica. The silica absorbs oxygen, nitrogen, and sulfur molecules - those responsible for bad odors - and breaks them down, permanently eliminating smells.

This enables users to wear clothing more and wash it less without worrying about unpleasant odors. Perfect for time-

poor parents, travelers looking to pack light, athletes who exercise regularly, and anyone concerned with the environment.

Measuring the environmental benefits

As well as leaving clothes smelling fresher and the wearer feeling more confident and comfortable, Polygiene solutions have a positive environmental impact. A Life Cycle Assessment of Polygiene-treated T-shirts revealed skipping every second wash resulted in annual savings of: • 51 kWh • 3,800 liters of water • Four days of the wearer’s time.

By empowering customers to skip one wash, Polygiene technology reduced the T-shirt’s total environmental impact by a third.

Freshness in a (recycled) bottle

Generally, Polygiene solutions are IN things, not ON things. But not always.

The new Storm x Polygiene OdorControl Spray enables users to apply freshness technology to their own gear. Packaged in a 100% recycled aluminum bottle,

the spray tackles odor-causing molecules in textiles and is perfect for footwear, athletic apparel, and clothing.

As with all its products, Polygiene ensures everything is eco-friendly. It’s an aftercare spray, not an aerosol, and the technology is Bluesign approved and Oeko-Tex Eco Passport certified.

Mindfully working toward a more sustainable future

Complementing the brand’s existing Freshness products, the Storm x Polygiene OdorCrunch Spray is an exciting step into aftercare technology. It also demonstrates that inter-company collaboration and combining expertise and experience can push us toward a more sustainable future.

Polygiene has several intriguing solutions in the pipeline, so keep your eyes peeled for new technologies that facilitate more Mindful Living and sustainable product development.

OutDoor by ISPO: H2.300 polygiene.com suston – 27

LES?

W E R E A

IRC

G

G IN N I O C

Longevity, care, repair, and recycling. Each year we return to the same subjects, but are we getting any closer to closing the loop? Suston reaches out to experts to find out the current state of circularity in the outdoor industry. First: Jane Turnbull from European Outdoor Group.

BY JONATHAN EIDSE

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CIRCULARITY

W

e’ve seen more and more brands, retailers and suppliers coming up with new circular initiatives.

What approach to circularity does the European Outdoor Group (EOG) take?

EOG has been working on circularity for years, following and supporting different efforts. In our capacity as a member organization, we also act to help bring these various threads together to better locate the shared pain points and synergies, and then build upon common interests.

An important part of this work is collecting data and understanding where the sector is, and we have just concluded a Circularity Survey to establish the current level of circularity activities of our members. More information to come! Yet while things are picking up speed, I think we can safely say that as an industry there is more we could be doing to progress our journey towards circularity.

You’ve had a unique and privileged insight into many of the industry’s circularity initiatives. So, while we await the survey’s results, what do you think Outdoor is doing particularly well?

A crucial part of circularity is extending a product’s useful life, and designing for longevity and repair has been at the core of the outdoor business model from the start. One could argue that producing garments and gear that are both physically durable and functional is at the heart of the industry’s being.

Another concept that the industry has begun to understand better and added firmly to the discussion of longevity is “emotional durability.” Here again, outdoor products come out particularly strong: As they join us on our most memorable journeys, they quickly check the box of emotional durability as well.

So, I’d say in general, designing for and enabling longevity is where Outdoor excels in circularity.

Reputations are built on precisely this, and you simply wouldn’t make it long in this business if your gear failed in the mountains when people are depending on it.

Production and end-of-life impacts have dominated circularity conversations for some time, but the use stage is also an important leg of the circular journey. How is the outdoor community doing here?

Even before the concept of sustainability and circularity went mainstream, product care and repair have been fairly commonplace in the outdoor community. Sharing the importance of and teaching how to reimpregnate hiking boots and jackets, for example, can have a defining impact of

a consumer’s experience. And the same goes to be able to send a busted zipper or backpack hip buckle to the brand for repair, which keeps products out of the landfill and can enhance the customer’s experience.

But there are still knowledge gaps within the industry and outdoor community members when it comes to garment care. Many outdoor enthusiasts appreciate support and assistance when it comes to how to care for their equipment, and may discard them prematurely as a result of not being able to access support. So, I’d say that here, there are plenty of opportunities for educating the user.

And while some brands have been offering masterful repairs since their early beginnings, others are just getting started – and discovering there are many things to consider in order to offer a good service! The learning curve is steep and whilst achieving direct profitability can be elusive, brands are finding that if done right the rewards in terms of product design feedback, implementing circularity and gaining customer loyalty are well worth it.

Where would you say the greatest challenge lies in closing the loop?

I’d say that connecting the dots and scaling solutions remain the greatest challenges that we currently face. But through precompetitive collaborations, such as the Accelerating Circularity project, I also think that these connections are beginning to be made.

Many solutions are out there, but ensuring that we don’t work in silos will really help us progress.

Perhaps in no other part of the circularity model is this more apparent than in recycling. Since I first began at EOG, I’ve participated in enough projects to see that many aspects of textile-to-textile recycling now have feasible solutions. But attempts to scale up individual projects have made it clear that all pieces of the puzzle must fit together in order for this to work.

It’s also important to understand that in many cases, these are early days in the circular journey.

But what is key is to ensure that we don’t try and take a linear model and bend it into a circle. Today, growth remains the guiding light. This is not so surprising, as many of the technologies and systems needed for circularity remain in their infancy and represent risks and change for companies in an era already beset with uncertainty. But the environmental challenges we face require that we need to move faster just the same.

If we put recycling as the last resort, the outdoor sector is really well placed to keep product in use for as long as possible and we know from our members and their CSR teams, that there is a real desire for better circular solutions. So, it is here where I find the most hope!

DR. JANE TURNBULL

Sustainability Project Manager, European Outdoor Group

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CIRCULARITY: REPAIR

REPAIRS: EASY IN THEORY, COMPLEX IN PRACTICE After making products durable enough for their intended use and encouraging proper care, the next step in extending the product’s useful life is repair. But business and consumers alike continue to ask, “what’s in it for me?”

BY JONATHAN EIDSE ILLUSTRATION KICKI FJELL

H

istorically we produced far fewer and more expensive products - and people took care of the ones they had. Extending the product’s life was therefore a very prudent financial decision, and repair was a crucial and ordinary part of a product’s life cycle.

Fast-forward to today, characterized by a market flooded with cheap products, shorter and shorter use phases, and large amounts of waste.

Sarah Case co-authored the paper “Managing Complexities of Repair Service Offerings – A Study of the outdoor textile industry.” For her, the return to repair is one of the “key elements” towards solving the circular economy puzzle: “Repair plays a core role in enabling the circular economy. It keeps garments in use that may otherwise go to downcycling or landfill.”

SARAH CASE

Retail Specialist, Texaid

FABIAN NENDZA Sr. Sustainability Mgr, Fenix Outdoor

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Starting from a position of strength

Legislators are beginning to agree that the circular product is one that’s repairable. The so-called “Right to Repair,” for example, is becoming an important cornerstone of the EU’s Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles and is already seeing VAT reductions for repair going into effect in some countries.

Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) legislation is also in the works in many countries that would make manufacturers responsible for their product’s end-of-life management. This would essentially incentivize them to design products that last longer, which means designing for repairability. Legal pressure combined with consumer expectations will, it is hoped, help squeeze

low-quality products with comparatively high environmental impacts out of the market.

Many outdoor brands, meanwhile, have long prided themselves on their extensive warranties, and indeed have been repairing their products based on this quality guarantee for decades. This is one of many reasons that, compared to other segments of the apparel industry, Sarah Case sees the outdoor industry as already occupying a strong position in terms of repairs: “It already makes high-quality products and spends a lot of time figuring out ideal balances between function and strength. And not to mention the strong sustainability ethos within the outdoor community at large.”

At first glance, outdoor gear repair also seems fairly straightforward, whereby the typical repair journey looks like this: A consumer brings a damaged product to a point-of-contact such as a brand store or retailer that sends the item to a professional for repairs, sometime in-house, often third-party. Once finished, the item is thereafter returned to its owner.

So, if repair is essential to the circular economy and Outdoor has many of the prerequisites in place for success in this field – repairable products and a motivated community – one might be forgiven for thinking that this should be a quick win.

Repair is not a quick win

Where things get problematic is that each step of the above “repair journey” go completely against the grain in terms of the dominant fast-fashion, unidirectional, and globalized workforce reality.

Take the consumer level: Why wait for an item to

be repaired when an affordable – and brand new – replacement is available right now?

Stores, meanwhile, are meticulously set up to move things as efficiently out of the shop as possible, not process items coming the other way. And expensive repair workshops occupy valuable floor space in their stores and warehouses that could otherwise be used to sell more products.

And finally, while repair may not be complex, it is complicated. Each fix is different, so there’s no way to automate it and the skills required are rare outside of Southeast Asia. Even if (and it’s a big if) consumers had the patience to wait for the round trip that this would require, transport alone would likely negate much of the environmental savings repair has to offer.

Repair’s Return on Investment

All three levels have conspired to make it far easier and more cost-effective to replace a product rather than repair it. One of repair’s greatest unanswered questions has therefore become “what’s in it for me?”

Sarah Case believes that there is no one single answer to this question, but suggests that her research did reveal what may be the key approach to achieving success in repair: “Each brand is doing this for their own reasons, so success in repairs now depends on different definitions. Profitability is still a huge challenge, and most just hoped to break even. But what about repair’s value in terms of meeting sustainability goals, gaining customer loyalty, and collecting product design feedback? These are hard to measure, but are crucial considerations when calculating repair’s return on investment!”

GLOBETROTTER’S CIRCULAR MISSION In 2019, the German outdoor specialty retailer Globetrotter opened its first Care and Repair station. Under this program, consumers can have small repairs performed in-store or have larger repairs sent to skilled staff at Globetrotter’s warehouse for a reasonable cost.

The response has been positive to say the least. The Care & Repair stations have since expanded to 14 out of its 22 stores and this has led to the care and repair of 24,649 products in 2022 – almost a 90% increase on the previous year.

According to Fabian Nendza, Senior Sustainability Manager at Frilufts Retail and Globetrotter (parent company Fenix Outdoor), the business rationale of satisfying consumer expectations and demand is just one of many returns on investment.

“Our intrinsic motivation for a more sustainable company is crucial here as well: In a world where just 1% of textiles are recycled to textile again at their end-of-life, product longevity is one of the most powerful ways of reducing its environmental impact. Here, repair is a crucial service to keeping products in use for as long and as much as possible.”

Fabian Nendza also points to the need to move away from linear business models and to implement successful circular models in their place. Once again, repair is an essential prerequisite for other Re-services like rental and second-hand.

“We need all hands on deck to go circular, from sourcing and production to brands to retailers to users, at all stages of the product’s life cycle. Repairability is not the whole answer, but it’s a very important part.” suston – 31

CIRCULARITY: LONGEVITY

LONGEVITY IN FOCUS

We’ve all heard how using a product for an extra few months can dramatically reduce its overall environmental footprint. But is it that simple? Suston explores the finer points of the longevity discussion.

T

BY JONATHAN EIDSE ILLUSTRATION KICKI FJELL

DR. MARK TAYLOR

Deputy Programme Leader for BA Sustainable Fashion, Leeds University

he average garment is worn only ten times before disposal, and research by Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF, 2017) suggests that this represents a decrease of 36% over just the last 15 years. Reduced product lifetimes, in turn, increases consumption and disposal rates. What’s more, this trend in global clothing consumption is still predicted to rise dramatically in the coming years.

More resources are needed to make new clothes, and more waste is created, resulting in a self-reinforcing cycle that seems bent on turning new materials into waste in record time.

Within this context, it is hard to envision a successful circular model that doesn’t properly address the need for product longevity.

Dr. Mark Taylor and Dr. Mark Sumner have recently completed a detailed research project on the subject. When asked whether they agreed that longevity is crucial to circularity, Mark Taylor qualified with a question of his own: “That depends. How do you define circularity?

There’s not just one, single circular model. Regenerative and biodegradable natural fibers, for example, can be appropriate for one circular model, while recyclable synthetics for another.”

With the very definition of circularity now up in the air, the two Marks then emphasized that while longevity discussions in the outdoor industry tend to circle around the logic of “tougher is better,” the reality is far more complex.

A more nuanced view

DR. MARK SUMNER

Lecturer in Sustainable Fashion, University of Leeds

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In fact, according to their research, a product’s physical durability can actually be a fairly poor indicator that it will also enjoy a long and useful lifespan. The product may, for example, never be purchased in the first place and be sent directly to the incinerator because it just wasn’t in fashion.

Or, maybe it does get purchased but then spends decades at the back of a closet. Whatever the story, it’s commonly a very short one: “Most products are thrown out long before their

expiry dates. Longevity therefore needs to be understood as more than just a function of a product’s physical properties, depending on individual garment categories rather than universal definitions,” says Mark Sumner.

He continues to give an example of a pair of denim jeans, which most people expect to fade and even improve with multiple washes. But a formal shirt is likely to be discarded once it starts to fade or degrades from washing. As each has a unique expectation from the user in terms of its function, the same level of physical durability is not necessary for both products.

In short, social factors play a much larger role in how often a garment is actually worn. The only reason physical durability is perceived to be important is because this is both intuitive and considered easier to measure.

State of longevity in the Outdoor industry

Turning to the outdoor industry, it is widely perceived that products here are built tough – especially when compared to the norm in the fast-fashion sector. But does this assumption hold water?

Mark Taylor is not so sure.

“It’s difficult to generalize. On the one hand, outdoor brands are making durable products that can withstand tough conditions. But on the other hand, there’s been a long-held trend to bring down the weight of some products to the bare minimum, which can reduce the potential lifespan.”

But this is not necessarily a bad thing. While both Mark Taylor and Mark Sumner agree that designing for longevity is one answer to some sustainability challenges, they underline that it is not always going to be the right answer.

“There’s absolutely no point making something incredibly durable if that doesn’t fit its likely function for the end user,” says Mark Sumner.

Moving forward

While the longevity discussion continues, it is important to recognize that some of the most

important decisions are made outside of the product design studios. Trends change, bodies change, and outdoor activities change. Of course, a well-designed product can continue to live on via secondhand, subscription or rental services.

But the product that is designed to last a lifetime will continue to butt up against consumer preference in any of these scenarios.

Mark Sumner and Mark Taylor therefore caution against a narrow view of product longevity that is taking root in industry and policy circles, one that does not account for social reality.

“Measures like Product Environmental Footprints (PEFs) and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) will depend on hard data, and there’s already an emphasis on physical durability as a key indicator of a product’s potential longevity. This will hardly solve the textile industry’s wastefulness, and by over constructing products we may in fact exacerbate it,” shares Mark Taylor.

Mark Sumner agrees that we need to consider how products are actually used, and go beyond a simplistic view of either it’s durable or not: “When it comes to longevity, there is no one size fits all. The best we can say is that “good” product design takes a life cycle view, considers the consumer’s requirements, and constructs a product that is fit for purpose.”

FJÄLLRÄVEN’S EMOTIONAL DURABILITY “Emotional durability” is one social variable that has been gaining traction in the outdoor longevity discussion, and refers to the ability of a garment to evoke positive emotions in the wearer over an extended period of time.

Perhaps no other outdoor actor has championed the concept of emotional durability more than the Swedish brand Fjällräven. While Fjällräven strives to have both physical durability and functionality in place, their design includes an additional element to appeal to a long-term relationship: Timelessness.

This involves creating designs, colors, and textures that are outside of trends, are versatile, and are meaningful to the wearer. With thoughtful design, the goal is that over time such garments will become associated with memories, experiences, and feelings that are cherished by the wearer. Thanks to this relationship, they are then more likely to be worn repeatedly and maintained with care “For Fjällräven, achieving emotional longevity first requires a deeper understanding of the wearer’s needs and values,” explains Johanna Mollberg, R&D Product Developer at Fjällräven, “In today’s world that also means a commitment to sustainable materials and ethical practices.” suston – 33

CIRCULARITY: CARE

WHY YOU SHOULD CARE Proper care is necessary to prolong a product’s functional life and reduce its overall environmental impact. Obvious? Apparently not.

Why are so many still getting this part wrong?

P

BY JONATHAN EIDSE ILLUSTRATION KICKI FJELL

roduction stage impacts continue to gain most of the attention when it comes to apparel. But accounting for approx. 10-35% of the total impact, the use stage is not entirely without consequence and involves substantial energy and water for clothes washing and drying, among others. And while proper cleaning and care is necessary to maintain the function and aesthetic qualities of a product, incorrect care can both increase these impacts while also decreasing the potential lifespan. In short, proper care matters.

Let’s get technical

NINA NEUNDORFER

Student, University of Bayreuth

In terms of regular apparel, care recommendations have become fairly well-known: Spot clean and air out clothing as much as possible, wash in full loads on low temperatures with an environmental detergent, and avoid tumble dryers for drying when possible.

Proper cleaning and care are just as important to extending the useful life of technical garments.

Yet there remains a great deal of confusion on how to best care for them.

Nina Neundorfer has studied the actual care habits with technical outerwear. In a recent survey titled “Analysis of the usage and care behavior of customers of weather protection jackets” (pending publication at the time of writing), she found that there is still much to be desired: “When it comes to care for technical wear, it seems people have a lot of question marks in their minds in terms of the correct behavior.”

Not too much, not too little

The survey found, for example, that while most respondents washed their jackets five times or less per year, a small but not insignificant minority washed between 6-30 times. Soiled garments can have their breathability and overall performance reduced and should be washed as needed.

But it is important to note that unlike baselayers and midlayers, outerwear generally does not need to be washed very often. Excessive washing and drying can increase the total use stage impact.

A decline in functionality was reported by 34 – suston

nearly a quarter of respondents as the reason for replacing their last technical garment. Durable Water Repellent (DWR) treatments do lose their effectiveness over time, and outerwear needs to periodically either have its DWR reactivated or be reimpregnated to maintain waterproofness, breathability and dirt resistance performance. Yet 85% of respondents never put their outerwear in the dryer, and 47% of respondents reported they never reimpregnate their outerwear.

“Failing to re-activate and reimpregnate a product’s DWR, for example, is a big mistake that many make. This is so easy to do and could improve the garment’s function and extend its lifetime. One can only assume a lack of knowledge is the cause and greater education is needed.”

PERFORMANCE WEAR CARE General care:

• Rule number one is to always follow the garment label’s care instructions.

• Air out after activity, hang dry when wet.

• Spot clean mud and spills when possible, using a mild detergent.

• Wash with a liquid detergent at low temperature as needed when soiled.

Reactivation:

1. When water no longer beads on garments with DWR treatments, it’s time to reactivate. Close all zippers, and wash at 40 C (105 F) using a small amount of mild, liquid detergent (not powder).

2. Air dry the garment. Once dry, tumble dry on a warm setting for 20 min. to reactivate the DWR.

Reimpregnate:

1. If water still doesn’t bead after the above process, reimpregnate the garment. Follow the DWR manufacturer’s instructions on how to apply.

2. Once applied, tumble dry the garment for an additional 20 min. on a warm setting.

CIRCULARITY: RECYCLING

END-OF-LIFE RECYCLING There’s clearly no circularity without recycling. Suston reaches out to sustainability consultant Joel Svedlund to hear the latest in the outdoor industry’s efforts to close the loop.

W

BY JONATHAN EIDSE ILLUSTRATION KICKI FJELL

e already see a lot of products made using recycled materials. So why is it necessary for industries to close their own loops rather than source from global supply flows?

“The currently most developed and commercialized recycling methods generally add post-consumer materials into a material cycle (e.g. PET bottles into fibers), but most do not have a plan for the following product lives (e.g. when textile fibres go into the next use phase). Most of these methods downgrade the used materials and introduce contaminants which are then hard to get rid of in the next recycling stage.

“That’s why closing one’s own loop is considered a “holy grail” in terms of true circularity because it implies not degrading materials if they can be used repeatedly in the same use.”

How close would you say the outdoor industry is to closing its own loop?

Generally, I would not consider the outdoor industry as better or worse off than the general material streams it populates. Many trials in material choices have been made, but on a larger scale there are very few examples of existing closedloop material streams.

In textile, the most advancement has come in polyester recycling (several chemical recycling plants are scaling up), cellulosic regenerated fibres (e.g. Re:newcell and Spinnova) and polyamide (e.g. Hyosung’s Mipan Regen and Aquafil’s Econyl).

There are also scaled up efforts for mechanical recycling of fibers like cotton, polyester and wool, but they are not considered closed loop as they degrade material quality and require large quantities of mixed-in virgin material to maintain a quality level that is acceptable for apparel.

What is the biggest challenge in your view, and how can this be overcome?

The biggest challenge to closing the loop is that current materials and products are not invented/ designed with circularity in mind, and there are

very few incentives to do so. Things like coatings, mixed fibres and chemical content all interfere with recycled yarn quality. And to complicate matters further, there is currently very low traceability among products, less for materials and almost none for chemical ingredients.

This will change in the EU with the new Digital Product Passport standards, extended producer responsibility, and repairability regulations. That’s why brands and suppliers should begin investing in traceability right now, and develop knowledge about circularity. This will affect the whole company in a fundamental way, so they must make sure to connect all parts of the company and keep the innovation process close to the management team to enable shared learning.

TEXTILE EXCHANGE: THE CIRCULAR AUTHORITY Textile Exchange is a global non-profit organization focused on promoting sustainability and circularity in the textile industry.

“We are helping the textiles industry to move away from a linear model and towards a closed loop system based on textile-to-textile recycling,” shares Dr. Kate Riley, Fiber & Materials Strategy Lead: Synthetics at Textile Exchange.

“To the extent that new inputs are absolutely necessary, these will come from regenerative sources.”

To achieve this vision, Kate Riley points to three powerful tools at Textile Exchange’s disposal. The first is its 8 certifications, which embed circular practices and outcomes. The second is its Preferred Fiber and Materials (PFM) Report, which provides an overview of the sustainability performance of various preferred fibers and materials.

Finally, its “challenges” task the industry to turn the needle towards a particular goal.

Textile-to-textile recycling will be key to its upcoming 2030 challenge, says Kate Riley.

JOEL SVEDLUND

Sustainability Consultant Peak63N Outdoor Lab

KATE RILEY

Fiber & Materials Strategy Lead: Synthetics, Textile Exchange

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SPONSORED CONTENT LAVALAN

Peter Krommer, International Sales & Marketing Director Lavalan. Rainer Belzner, sheep farmer in Dinkelsbühl, Germany.

Sheep grazing in Switzerland.

The Value of European Wool The Bavarian ingredient brand Lavalan uses solely European wool to produce wool insulation used in outdoor clothing collections, and in doing so supports regional trade.

Lavalan – your name sounds as soft as the raw material that you use to make it. What does it mean?

Peter Krommer: That’s true, and people often say that. The name comes from Latin and is made up of the words lavare (to wash) and lana (wool). So it means washable wool. The fact that you can wash our wool fleece is one of our key USPs.

Where do you get the wool for your Lavalan products from?

Peter Krommer: We work with shepherds and partner companies in Switzerland, Austria, Germany, Sweden and Norway.

The diversity of different breeds of sheep is huge and the particular qualities of the wool vary from region to region. In Norway the climate is different to southern Germany, affecting the wool’s character.

By sorting the wool according to its fineness, length, crimp and homogeneity, we create a high-quality product.

Do the sheep live well too?

Peter Krommer: The sheep really do 36 – suston

get well looked after, especially in comparison to other farm animals. They’re allowed to spend most of the year outside in the fresh air. Sheep farming in Europe is very fragmented and is very much based on the natural behavior of the animals. For example, in Switzerland the average size of a herd is around 70 animals. Sheep farming makes a significant contribution to maintaining biodiversity, preserving the countryside and protecting nature. When I visit sheep farms, whether they are in Norway, Switzerland or Southern Germany, I always feel reassured that we are doing the right thing.

How does wool’s technical properties affect Lavalan’s wadding?

Peter Krommer: Wool is made up of 80% hollow spaces and can therefore store body heat very well. It can also absorb up to 36% of its dry weight in moisture and constantly releases this moisture.

This makes wool exceptionally breathable and ensures a consistent, dry and

comfortable feel. Wool can also neutralise bad smells, so garments can be worn for a long time without needing to be washed.

Wool is also naturally renewable and becomes available every year in Europe as a by-product of the meat industry. Moreover, wool is completely biodegradable, but can also be recycled very easily.

Which products can we find Lavalan wool wadding in currently?

Peter Krommer: Our Lavalan wool wadding comes in lots of different weights and qualities, and therefore has a diverse range of uses, e.g. in kids, ski and outdoor clothing, duvets, prams, sleeping bags, helmets, gloves and much more besides.

Learn more about Lavalan’s fibrefill made from European virgin wool and its latest product Lavalan Pure. www.lavalan.com

SPONSORED CONTENT SCHOELLER

Experience Nature; Act Sustainably

The innovative Re-Source recycled textile collection from Swiss textile manufacturer Schoeller Textil AG creates perfect symbiosis of textile performance and sustainability.

Performance inspired by nature

Whether for travel, everyday work, or demanding mountain tours – the sustainable textile innovations of Schoeller’s Re-Source collection guarantee maximum comfort, durability and weather protection in any environment.

Through recycling previously used materials, Re-Source creates environmental and social value in a holistic approach – for wearers, apparel brands and the planet.

“Our mission with Re-Source is to make nature tangible,” says Antonio Gatti Balsarri, chief commercial officer at Schoeller. “The recycled textile collection is part of Schoeller’s sustainability strategy, which aims to create a better future for people and the planet.”

Transparent production process Re-Source gives bio-based, post- and

pre-consumer materials, such as recycled polyester and spandex, new life in the form of high-performance textiles.

Two textile innovations in the collection are lined with natural Nativa Merino wool on the interior, produced 100 percent transparent and traceable using blockchain technology. Nativa farms worldwide meet strict social and environmental requirements for animal welfare (mulesing-free), land management and ethical labor guidelines.

Sustainability & multifunctionality

Re-Source textiles offer breathability, thermal regulation, as well as wind and water repellency in a wide range of application situations.

The resistant and durable Q-cycle polyamide is obtained by pyrolysis of used tires, thus saving CO2 emissions compared to the incineration process. All

Re-Source textile innovations are Bluesign Approved.

“Every element within the Re-Source collection has been carefully and thoughtfully researched and developed with nature in mind,” says Hans Kohn, COO, Schoeller Technologies AG.

Harmony with nature for 150 years

Sustainability and performance are not trends for Schoeller Textil AG, but brand-guiding principles for more than 150 years: The development of innovative textiles for use in – and in harmony with – nature. With the launch of the new Re-Source recycled textile collection, the brand creates a symbiosis of the highest quality, design, and current sustainability standards. www.schoeller-textiles.com suston – 37

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SUSTON GUIDE

Higg School What’s the true cost of the gear we buy? Meet the outdoor industry’s leading toolbox for measuring social and environmental impacts.

BY JONATHAN EIDSE ILLUSTRATION NADIA NÖRBOM

What is Higg, and why is it needed?

What are the carbon, water, energy, social and labor impacts of a product or process? And what would be the tradeoffs and benefits of exchanging one material for another? Answering such questions is critical to creating a lower-impact product – but doing so is anything but straightforward.

This first requires some form of common language and measurement from which to compare two or more different things. It requires standardization.

Launched in 2019 by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (though now an independent entity), Higg is the most prominent platform, providing standardized scores for fiber types, treatments and production methods based on their impacts.

What kind of capabilities does Higg offer?

To meet the demand of brands, retailers, suppliers, and consumers for more sustainable products, Higg offers an array of tools. Perhaps the most well-known are the Higg Product Tools. The Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI), for example, uses the industry’s most comprehensive life cycle assessment databases to calculate environmental impacts and translate them into comparable scores. By exchanging variables, product designers can easily see the relative environmental costs, benefits and trade-offs of different materials and make more informed choices.

Going beyond the material level, the Higg Product Module (Higg PM) then assesses the cradle-tograve environmental impacts of a product based on five categories: Global Warming Potential, Nutrient Pollution in Water, Water Scarcity, Fossil Fuel Depletion, and Chemistry.

Further behind the scenes of a product lies a vast network of facilities producing the various components used to make it. Here, a range of Higg Facility Tools provides standardized social and environmental assessments that are designed to improve production safety and sustainability along the entire supply chain.

Products and materials aside, business operations themselves also have impacts. This is where the Higg Brand & Retail Module (Higg BRM) comes in, which offers a standardized way of measuring an organization’s sustainability performance. This then enables brands and retailers to benchmark their performance against similar companies and, more importantly, helps them identify where the greatest room for improvement lies.

What are Higg’s benefits and limitations?

It is very costly for most brands to determine the impacts of their products all the way down the value chain. But what if many companies were to join together in this effort and share their data?

Thanks to having the greatest degree of buy-in from the industry, Higg now sits on a massive database. With this aggregate data, fairly accurate assumptions can be made on material, product, and organizational impacts.

But aggregate data can also miss very important details, such as producers that perform far better or worse than the industry average. Furthermore, much data is supplied via self-assessments. This means that data may overrepresent those willing to share their data. In other words, the data from poor performers may not be included, even if they may be major producers in their particular market.

Is there a consumer version of Higg?

In 2022 Higg rolled out a public-facing version of Higg MSI that provided a visual scorecard of a product’s impacts to help consumers quickly identify the more sustainable products. The initiative quickly ran into legal issues, however, which stemmed in part from the above-mentioned limitations of aggregate data. While industry can freely use such data for their own internal purposes, consumer protection laws require a far greater degree of specificity and accuracy to any product claims.

As such, the roll-out of the public-facing Higg MSI has been set on hold pending an internal review.

Higg is a suite of tools for measuring the sustainability performance of apparel and footwear products, facilities, and companies.

It assesses environmental and social impacts throughout the supply chain and enables companies to make informed decisions to improve their sustainability practices.

40 – suston

THINK TANK

WHAT HAPPENED TO THE FUTURE? In 2019, the think tank Outdoor Futures wanted to shake and awake the industry, by creating a vision and a roadmap to become a global sustainability leader. Where did this lead? Suston reaches out to participants about their visions from then - and today.

“T

BY GABRIEL ARTHUR

he outdoor industry was born out of a passion for the great outdoors. By people, and for people, who in different ways loved being out in the wild.

This heritage and love still exist - but we have created an industry that threatens and destroys what we care for the most.

Our vision is to find new innovative ways to protect and regenerate nature, while we - at the same time - make it more accessible, fun and safe for a growing global population.”

That was the brief summary of the Outdoor Futures think tank’s three-day meeting at the MonViso Institute in spring 2019. Fifteen sustainability managers and experts from the outdoor industry had been planning and preparing via Zoom for months. How could the power and commitment that many in the industry had begun to experience now take us all a big step forward?

How would the issues move up the hierarchy to management and owners? Could Outdoor even become a driving, positive force in society at large?

Optimism was high as we gathered in the carefully renovated farmhouse on a hillside opposite the 3841-meter high Monviso - one of Italy’s most iconic peaks. In my Suston report I wrote: “On the same day that we arrive at Monviso, the EU election is being held, where a green wave is sweeping over northern and western Europe. Two days earlier a Global Strike for the Future was organized in over 1,400 cities across 110 nations.”

Short talks, group discussions, workshop exercises with hundreds of post-it notes alternated with short hikes. The optimism was even greater when we left.

The results were summarized in a 25-page report, and the vision was presented a few weeks later at OutDoor by ISPO. Working groups would take the Outdoor Futures project forward.

At the same time, the European Outdoor Group (EOG) communicated its new vision: Doing profitable business while giving back more than what is taken, in terms of both people and nature.

A new think tank was planned to take place in Norway in the summer of 2020. But that didn’t happen. The global pandemic put the visioning process on hold, and Outdoor Futures was relegated to an infrequently used channel on Slack.

But was change and development in the industry also put on hold? Not according to those I talk to four years later. Several milestones along our roadmap seem to have been completed. But some visions are still far away from being realized - and new, even bolder ones are needed.

OUTDOOR FUTURES THINK TANK Participants in 2019: Adam Hall Angela Adams Arne Strate Benjamin Marias David Ekelund Florian Palluel Gabriel Arthur Giulio Piccin Jane Turnbull Joel Svedlund Karla Magruder Kjersti Kviseth Melanie Kuntnawitz Pamela Ravasio Peter Hollenstein Rebecca Johansson Tansy Fall

READ THE SUSTON STORY FROM THE EVENT:

suston – 41

THINK TANK

“KEEP THE FIRE ALIVE”

Four years down the road, Rebecca Johansson sees many positive achievements from the outdoor industry. But the big leaps are still ahead.

What did you work with in 2019 and what do you do today?

Back then I was Sustainability and R&D Manager at Helly Hansen. Since spring 2022, I am responsible for sustainability at Active Brands, a Norwegian corporate group with brands such as Kari Traa, Sweet Protection and Åsnes. I was recruited to develop the company’s environmental, social and governance strategies, and set the goals and the roadmaps together with the different brands.

What positive steps do you see in the outdoor industry since 2019?

A lot has happened. In general, the sustainability work is more concrete and structured today.

The transparency tools are more developed, and the climate strategies are more mature. At that time, many outdoor brands had neither concrete goals nor climate accounting. Also, I think that sustainability has become more of a priority among top management and boards. That was one thing we pointed out as a key factor in the think tank in 2019.

What has not developed in the way that the think tank aimed for?

REBECCA JOHANSSON

Head of ESG & Sustainability Active Brands

42 – suston

Looking at the state of the planet, we are still doing too little, too late. The business models are very much the same, with a focus on growth and no impactful enough strategies on how to decouple this from the growing ecological footprints.

Circular models have developed but are still on a fairly low level when it comes to business. I hope they will take a bigger part in the future.

What can be the reasons for this?

I think there was big momentum around sustainability then, in society. Perhaps we were also a bit more naive at the time, and now we are more into details that take longer to implement at scale than what we first anticipated. The passion for sustainability remains strong within the outdoor industry and we are making progress. However, the progress must be accelerated to address what we have in front of us.

What would you like to discuss if there was a visionary outdoor think tank today?

In both Europe and North America, the pandemic also led to many novices discovering the benefits of going outdoors. How can we inspire them to connect deeper to nature and act responsibly?

On the social side, many people working for our suppliers have had a tough time in the last years, with lockdowns, inflation etc. Can we as an industry unite and offer a more secure future for them?

A lot of good things have happened around transparency, both when it comes to technology development and companies identifying shared suppliers. I believe we will collaborate even more within this space in the future.

Also, I believe that biodiversity is a theme that we need to bring higher up on the agenda in the outdoor industry.

On a personal level, do you feel less or more visionary than in 2019?

Less, I am afraid. I am also more focused on the details and concrete action plans. In one way, that is maybe a natural and good development. At the think tank in Monviso, we didn’t only talk about how to minimize negative impacts. We also wanted to maximize the positive impacts! Here, I think there is still a lot to discover, together.

THINK TANK

“PRODUCE LESS!”

Nearshoring, climate collaborations and avoiding overproduction.

Peter Hollenstein has tried to implement insights from the think tank.

What did you work with in 2019 and what do you do today?

I was Senior Corporate Responsibility Manager at Mammut. In 2020 I started consulting, among others for the European Outdoor Group. Today I am the CEO of Rotauf, a small Swiss outdoor brand with a radical approach to sustainability. We eliminated all toxic chemicals, only use organic or recycled materials, and produce all our products in Switzerland. Often even fabric production and wet processing takes place in Switzerland – which is a challenge. Like many European countries, Switzerland used to have a large clothing industry.

Nowadays, most manufacturers are gone, but we have found companies that survived in their niches, which have typically nothing to do with outdoor clothing.

You and Rebecca Johansson were the initiators of Outdoor Futures. What are your feelings that the project didn’t survive?

I am sad that we didn’t manage to stick to the project. It was a very dynamic group, with people from different brands, media, science, and subject matter experts, working on a shared mission. Four years later I can see that we managed to cover many key aspects, no really big topic has emerged that we didn’t have on the radar back then.

What did you bring with you back to your daily work?

With Rotauf, I became very involved in nearshoring. Which the pandemic also showed, can be good for many reasons, not only sustainability. This is a reason why I chose to start working for Rotauf.

Producing in Switzerland is so expensive that we could never afford to sell with large discounts!

Also, the need for more industry collaborations.

One of my first projects as a consultant was to help European Outdoor Group set up the framework for their Climate Action Program. I think this program has been developed into a very good example of how the industry can work together.

Looking at today, what do you wish had happened, but hasn’t yet?

The transition from selling physical products to selling services. Many outdoor brands justify their

focus on selling more and more products by saying “It’s better if people buy jackets from us than from our less sustainable competitors.” Our products will always have ecological footprints.

What do you hope will happen in the future?

That the industry starts addressing overproduction. Almost all brands overbuy materials, just in case their forecasts are too low, and produce more than they think they can sell, for the same reasons.

Retailers also want to have their safety margins, meaning overproduction all along the value chain.

In the end, many products are sold with massive discounts. This is just how the system works. A pretty sick system if you ask me!

Instead, we should ask ourselves: Can we set economic growth targets and at the same time set goals to produce less? And imagine if the whole industry would agree: Let’s only sell at full price!

That would be a systemic change – and I think it would be wiser, from many perspectives.

PETER HOLLENSTEIN CEO Rotauf

suston – 43

THINK TANK

MORE BALANCE, MORE CIRCULARITY Change has been accelerated within the outdoor industry over the last years, says both Giulio Piccin and Karla Magruder. And more should come.

Giolio, as Product and CSR Manager at Aku, were there any discussions at the think tank you could bring “back to work?”

Cooperation! The idea to leave our backyard and work with competitors. It can both be effective and lead to important results. This didn’t happen directly after we were there, but gradually it has grown. In many ways thanks to the initiatives from the European Outdoor Group. Now we are even starting to cooperate with competing footwear brands.

A lesson from the last years is maybe that change cannot always can be predicted?

Absolutely. We used to talk about how to get people into the outdoors. But during the pandemic, huge amounts of people discovered by themselves nature as a way to find more life quality.

If you could do the same thing again – what would you like to bring into this discussion?

The circularity of our products. I mean specifically mountain boots. It is a complex product in terms of raw materials and difficult to be separated and would need very specific waste management facilities. We can accomplish real circularity only with big investments, decided at the government level. So the discussion would be: What can we do more to influence these decisions?

GIULIO PICCIN

Product & CSR Manager Aku

KARLA MAGRUDER Founder Fabrikology International President Accelerating Circularity

44 – suston

Karla, what are you working with nowadays?

Hundred percent working on developing circular systems and business models. Specifically for turning spent textiles – waste – into new mainstream raw materials through our nonprofit Accelerating Circularity.

Is it some discussion at Monviso that you particularly remember in retrospect?

One main memory is the conversations about that CEO’s needed to be convinced that sustainability was the way to go. My position was that if the CEO’s didn’t see sustainability as a key driver for their businesses they were lost, and therefore one should work with those who already understood.

One mission in Monviso was to envision the change that was needed. Today, what do you consider visionary, for the outdoor industry?

This would be somewhat different, as things we didn’t see happening then are obvious now. The need to use used textiles as a raw material was a vision, today it’s a reality. The industry keeps trying to use linear business models with “circular” materials. Today, raw materials, labor and the environment are not properly considered in the supply chain.

Moving to circularity doesn’t make sense if we avoid addressing problems in these segments.

THINK TANK

“REGENERATION MUST COME NEXT” One thing hasn’t changed since 2019, says Tobias Luthe. The outdoor industry can learn more from nature – and in nature.

You hosted the Outdoor Futures event, at the Monviso Institute that you founded. Can you share more about this institute?

I had been searching for a place where sustainability theory and outdoor practice could meet, since I believe they must go hand in hand. In 2015 I purchased an abandoned mountain farm close to the mountain village Ostana and opposite Monviso.

Since then I have together with friends, students and colleagues tried to convert the farm into a prototype for sustainable innovations. We invite academia, companies, and NGOs to come here for workshops, learning processes and more. And also, to unlearn! I think we all must regularly question our assumptions and beliefs.

What are you working with today?

My field as a research scientist is Systemic Design with a focus on regeneration, and I am Professor and Program Director at the university ETH in Zürich. But I also work with the Monviso Institute, as a mountain guide and off and on with the sustainable ski brand I started in 2008: Grown Skis.

Systemic design and regeneration are at the forefront. But the way we see sustainability as one step on the journey, not the final destination, might be unknown terrain for many. I’m a fan of how the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals provide us with a global framework. But we should not stop here. Regenerative development must be the next step, to repair and heal systems and cultures.

Can this be adopted by the outdoor industry?

Absolutely, since the connection to nature already is there. I think the pandemic demonstrated the need for more resilience in our systems, also on a personal level. Looking forward, one crisis is just going to follow the next. The usual way of tackling this is to grasp for structure, planning, and data.

Instead, we could learn from nature, in nature.

Mountaineering is a great way of learning how to navigate, reach milestones and make decisions based on what you experience along the way. And to get out of our comfort zones and build resilience and trust, both personally and as a team.

“Regeneration” was featured at the think tank in 2019. What does this mean to you?

Since then, it has become a buzzword and like many buzzwords nearly lost its meaning. Of course, it can include more concrete initiatives like regenerative agriculture. But for me, it also implies learning from nature, since nature has an amazing capability of regeneration. Just think about how biodiversity can spring back to life after a forest fire. We humans often go against nature to reach our goals – I think we instead should be inspired and learn, no matter if it is about cells, ecosystems, societal or personal regeneration.

And to learn from nature, we must really be out in nature. That is why it is so important to combine theory with outdoor practices.

TOBIAS LUTHE

Professor and Program Director at ETH in Zürich.

Founder of the Monviso Institute and Grownskis. Mountain Guide.

Your field aims to be at the forefront of sustainability. What do you hope happens next? suston – 45

A NEW DIRECTION FOR ANNECY Neighbor to the French Alps and a favorite hub for outdoor companies and nature-loving citizens. Annecy is one of Europe’s outdoor capitals. But to maintain this status, the city needs to move forward in one key area.

BY GABRIEL ARTHUR PHOTO RICHARD BORD

COMMUNITY

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rom the outside, there are no indications that the company at 5 Rue du Pré Paillard in Annecy is involved in outdoor activities. Located in the Les Glaisins business park, home to around 500 companies, the building exudes the same anonymity as its neighbors. But inside, there can be no doubt. By the entrance is a complete bouldering hall with a padded floor.

“Many of the French outdoor elite see bouldering as one of the most important forms of training. We attract them with a really good climbing gym. Our business is based on collaborating with the best professionals,” explains Julien Traverse, one of the founders of All Triangle.

Further into the premises is the large design studio. Julien Traverse gives a tour with Grégoire Laverty, the company’s R&D Manager, and introduces a dozen employees. Each one is deeply concentrated on some detail of footwear for cross-country running, climbing, hiking and more.

I’m not allowed to take any photos.

“The models we are developing today will only be launched in two years,” says Grégoire Laverty.

All Triangles was launched in 2018 and got off to a flying start when The North Face wanted to make a comeback in ultrarunning and mountain running. The project lasted two years, working with The North Face design team and a group of elite runners. In spring 2021, the first models in the Vectiv range were released, with the new patented sole construction being a key element. Soon the sponsored runners started winning international races with Vectiv shoes on their feet.

“Since then, we have helped several international brands to develop very solid models. When a runner wins a big race with ’our’ shoes, we celebrate with champagne here in the studio,” says Grégoire Laverty.

It is no coincidence that one of the world’s leading outdoor design companies is located in Annecy, says Julien Traverse.

“Our success is based on being part of a community, working with amazing outdoor athletes. Without their testing and feedback, we would never succeed.”

What about sustainability work?

“Durability is our entry door to sustainability. The more a shoe is durable, the fewer pairs need to be manufactured. We always work to limit the waste of materials on a shoe, and we’ll always take the most sustainable materials,” says Julien Traverse.

In many ways, All Triangles are representative of the local outdoor industry. Innovative, active, and dedicated – but is this enough to be called pioneers in 2023?

which for decades has been a base camp for the world’s best climbers, freeriders, mountain runners and more. But Annecy is also such a base camp, strategically located next to the large Lake Annecy with its surrounding mountain slopes. A natural Eldorado for people who enjoy activities such as kayaking, paragliding, mountain biking, trail running and rock climbing. At various points on the outskirts of the city, a fine-meshed trail system leads up to the mountains. Nearby are ski and MTB resorts such as La Clusaz.

The town has around 130,000 inhabitants, with another 50,000 or so in surrounding villages. It would be wrong to say that the city is entirely dominated by the outdoors; in the alleys of the old quarters, people look quite ordinary. In the parks next to the beaches, a few gangs of young people listen to music and smoke marijuana, and old men play boules under the trees. But the number of fit joggers with hydration belts is high, and no one reacts if someone comes carrying a SUP. And up in the mountains around the city, you’ll find lots of energetic hikers and runners who greet you with a friendly ”Salut!”.

Entrance to the French Alps Annecy could exemplify the concept of “urban outdoors.” It is only ten miles from Chamonix,

Clusters of outdoor businesses Annecy is also the capital of the French outdoor industry. It is home to companies like Millet and

Proximity to the nearby lake and mountains infuses the cityscape of Annecy.

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PHOTO: GABRIEL ARTHUR

PHOTO: GABRIEL ARTHUR

Lafuma, as well as the French headquarters of several global brands. According to many people I spoke to, there is a historical reason why the industry has ended up here, namely Salomon.

The company, which started out making ski edges in 1947, evolved into one of the world’s biggest brands in downhill skiing and outdoor activities.

Today, 750 Salomon employees work in Annecy alone, and a cluster of subcontractors and partners surround the company.

Marie-Laure Piednoir has been the company’s Sustainability and Impact Director since 2020.

As we visit the various design and prototype departments at the headquarters, she tells us that sustainability is now a high priority, as it is for several other outdoor companies in Annecy. Compared to Scandinavia, for example, the transition in France started rather late. But French pioneers such as Picture Organic have quickly become internationally successful and have been followed by others. At the same time, the resources in the region are vast, so once development takes off, a lot can happen.

“We come from the ski world, which has been a few years behind the outdoor world. We at Salomon started our journey by developing goals and plans around 2016. But in recent years the issues have become more and more important in France, and I think we have a good momentum today both at Salomon and other companies in Annecy.”

One challenge – not just for Salomon, but for the entire outdoor industry – is to move forward in footwear and equipment, especially with regard to winter sports.

“If you work with textiles and clothing, there are now good methods and data to choose more sustainable materials, for example. But many ‘hard’ products in downhill skiing and outdoor activities are complex. It’s easier to recycle a t-shirt than a ski binding,” says Marie-Laure.

Cooperation within the sector The French outdoor industry is brought together in the Outdoor Sports Valley (OSV) organization, with about 550 member companies and around 8,000 employees. It also includes companies in other major outdoor cities such as Grenoble and Chambéry. OSV is based in a large office building a stone’s throw from All Triangles. I meet the organization’s Executive Director Benjamin Thaller, who tells me that the size of the industry gives it influence (since my visit to Annecy, Benjamin Thaller has been succeeded by Céline Brunel).

The industry is one of the Grand Annecy region’s four priority business clusters.

“Outdoor companies are important employers and taxpayers in the region, and as representatives of the industry, we can have good discussions with universities about, for example, design

PHOTO: GABRIEL ARTHUR

COMMUNITY XXXXX

education, and with city politicians about what the outdoor industry needs.”

To maintain that position, Outdoor Sports Valley is on the same track as Salomon: The French industry, led by Annecy, must raise its ambitions in terms of sustainability. Being at the forefront of outdoor sports today is synonymous with moving towards a more sustainable future.

Our vision is for the outdoor industry to become a model for other industries in France.

“To be an attractive industry for young talent, we need to improve. Our vision is for the outdoor industry to become a model for other industries in France. Because who should be at the forefront if not us, who live from nature in various ways?” says Benjamin Thaller.

As a part of this effort, Benjamin Thaller explains that comprehensive strategy work is underway within Outdoor Sports Valley. Several different stakeholders are involved, together with the OSV board.

“Our new strategy will be presented to members in spring 2023.”

Benjamin Marias goes for a run up the Mont Veyrier at the outskirts of Annecy.

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colleagues have been and are involved in almost every sustainability initiative of the major outdoor companies in Annecy.

But Benjamin Marias realized a few years ago that he wanted to drive change more and faster.

He got involved in the local citizen-environmental movement and its political party Révellions Annecy (Wake up Annecy). The party was very successful in the last election and since 2020 Benjamin Marias is deputy mayor of Annecy (and continues to work as a consultant one day a week).

“One issue we’ve really committed to - and achieved results - is making Annecy more bike-friendly and improving public transport.

Today, Annecy is ranked as France’s fourth best cycling city and we decided in 2021 to invest €600 million in expanding the bus and tram system,” says Benjamin Marias.

Two other areas where Révellions Annecy has been successful are the decision to green Annecy by planting around 400 trees a year and investing in squares and playgrounds. And significantly increasing the share of renewable energy in heating in Annecy.

A national survey over France’s best cycling towns found Annecy in fourth place (Grenoble came first).

”

Wake up Annecy Annecy is often ranked among the cities with the highest quality of life. There is a large influx of people who move here, mainly well-educated and/ or wealthy people who are attracted by the proximity of the lake, the mountains, and the Alps.

But that doesn’t mean Annecy can sit back and leave things as they are, says Benjamin Marias. He is one of the founders of Air Coop, a cooperative of sustainability consultants with offices along

One issue we’ve really committed to - and achieved results - is making Annecy more bike-friendly and improving public transport. one of the pedestrian streets of the ‘Vieille Ville.’

Many of Air Coop’s consultants are passionate about the outdoors, with walls adorned with relics like old wooden skis and vintage backpacks. Every year, they organize the Outsiders Weekend festival, which attracts environmentalists from all over France.

Air Coop was founded to help create “a thriving community,” as its vision states. Benjamin and his

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Conflicts of interest On a sunny evening we take a run up Mont Veyrier on the eastern edge of the city. The path winds upwards in zigzags and the higher we get, the more beautiful the view of the lake, the city, and the surrounding mountains. At a break, however, Benjamin Marias points in another direction, towards the ski resort of La Clusaz. He explains that snow availability has become so poor in recent years that the lift company wants to build a large dam to collect water for artificial snow. To do so, they want to drain wetlands that are located in a Natura 2000 classified area with highly protected flora and fauna. This has led to widespread protests, including from the environmentalists of Extinction Rebellion who have chained themselves to tree houses in the threatened area.

Both as a politician and in helping Annecy’s outdoor businesses, Benjamin Marias wants to raise awareness: That which makes the city a great place is also under threat.

“Climate change is already affecting Annecy in several ways, and we have never had such a low water level in Lake Annecy as this past summer.

Those of us who love the outdoors need to realize that nature is under pressure from all sides. How should we act to ensure that Annecy remains a great place for future generations?”

While we continue running on the winding trails at Mont Veyrier, I am thinking that it is not only Annecy that must ”réveillons” - wake up. All towns and cities that want to be prominent on the global outdoor map should ask themselves the same question - and answer to it.

COMMUNITY

10 OUTDOOR CAPITALS IN EUROPE

Where to live and work, if you want access to academia, city culture, outdoor brands and amazing nature around the corner? At sustonmagazine.com, we list ten leading European outdoor capitals where outdoor is a part of the city soul – and so should sustainability.

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SPONSORED CONTENT ORTHOLITE

Partnering Toward a Cleaner Footwear Future in the EU and Beyond OrthoLite investments help further its global sustainability goals.

O

rthoLite has been the leading manufacturer and supplier of open-cell foam insole technologies for the world’s top footwear brands for over 25 years. The company maintains this market-leading position thanks to the excellence of the OrthoLite product collection, and to an unwavering focus on serving its 500+ global brand partners.

The global team is driven to anticipate and deliver on its brand partners’ needs in today’s fast-changing business climate.

This is possible thanks to a company culture built on relationships, collaboration, and continuous innovation.

“Earning the business of the great brands we serve requires an unrelenting commitment to supporting and guiding our customers through the process of bringing comfort, performance and sustainable footwear to market. It’s what we’re known for and what we continue to live for,” notes Glenn Barrett, founder and CEO of OrthoLite.

OrthoLite’s recent actions illustrate these promises.

Creative thinking leads to a more reliable supply chain.

OrthoLite began vertically integrating its operations in 2010. As of 2023, OrthoLite owns and/or operates six factories in major footwear manufacturing hubs around the world. This enables the brand to expand global capacity, while consistently delivering quality, innovation, service,

and improved sustainability. Importantly, this local-for-local operational structure ensures a crucial layer of risk mitigation for the company’s brand partners.

For E.U.-based partners, OrthoLite quadrupled capacity at its factory in Almansa, Spain in 2022. Of course, brands can order from any OrthoLite factory around the world, and expect the same exceptional quality and on-time delivery.

Freedom to innovate leads to a scalable, industrially-compostable foam.

In March 2022, OrthoLite introduced OrthoLite Cirql, the world’s first foam material for footwear that includes a circular end of life solution. Available to OrthoLite’s customers beginning in late 2023, OrthoLite Cirql was born from the goal to reduce waste and pollution in footwear.

OrthoLite Cirql foam is responsibly sourced from non-GMO materials derived from plants and synthetic biodegradable materials, then formed with a proprietary, chemical-free foaming process. It is free from “forever chemicals,” and the microplastics will biodegrade in a manner similar to natural polymers, like cellulose. The material can be returned to the production cycle by low-energy, advanced chemical recycling, or returned to nature via selected industrial composting methods.

OrthoLite Cirql provides the first technology capable of reducing the high impact of the manufacturing process at

scale. While the end of life management options exist right now, achieving scalability for those processes will involve collaboration with footwear brands and the waste management sector.

Shared values and global footprint leads to an exclusive partnership with Novamont.

OrthoLite partnered with international bioplastics leader Novamont to supply the OrthoLite Cirql polymer. Amidst a long roster of environmental bona fides, Novamont is a certified B-Corporation and the preeminent, global leader in compostable bioplastics.

With like-minded company values and the world-leading bio-based, compostable and recyclable polymer, Novamont is the ideal partner to complement OrthoLite’s foaming expertise and commitment to sustainability.

“Footwear is a very large consumer product segment with incredible reach and influence,” explained Barrett. “We are excited to be partnering with Novamont to escalate scalable solutions to drive positive change in the global footwear industry. This partnership is built on trust and transparency, as well as a relentless commitment to equip our 500+ global footwear brand partners to have access to single-source circular materials, starting with the midsole.”

Visit ortholite.com suston – 53

SPONSORED CONTENT SYMPATEX

Recyclable Textile Solutions The PFAS ban and EU law Ecodesign for Sustainable Products is inevitably around the corner. This leaves the outdoor industry with increasing pressure to react.

M

embrane manufacturer Sympatex accepts the responsibility to protect consumers and pushes the industry towards more sustainable approaches through innovation and collaboration.

Since 2016, the brand’s promise has been circularity by 2030. Sympatex produces polyester-based functional textiles from recycled and recyclable mono-materials, and will no longer use new materials from the oil industry in the future. Instead, used textiles are transformed into new, high-quality functional textiles.

Sympatex takes responsibility and drives social change

As a pioneer for circular processes, climate protection, sustainable products and engagement, Sympatex combines high product performance (waterproof, windproof, breathable & durable membrane) with uncompromising responsibility for the coming generations.

It is therefore Sympatex’s aim to do not 54 – suston

only what is legally required but what is technically possible to optimize its products at every level. The brand establishes ecologically responsible thinking as a matter of course in the textile industry by setting an example for others.

The PTFE-free and PFAS-free Sympatex membrane

The Sympatex membrane is PFAS-free and therefore PTFE-free. PFAS is a group of substances which, among others, is classified by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) as posing high environmental and health risks. PFAS does not occur naturally. Once created, they are persistent, non-degradable substances, that are permanently present in our environmental system and they lead to serious health problems such as cancer, miscarriage, birth defects, reduced immune response to vaccinations and weakened immune systems. In place of these extremely risky chemicals, that are frequently used in other membranes, the

Sympatex membrane is made from polyetherester, a chain of polyester and polyether molecules. It therefore leaves less traces on our planet, is kind on the skin and can be recycled like a PET bottle. The performance of fluorine-free polyester membranes and PTFE-based membranes is very similar, in terms of being windproof, breathable and waterproof.

Meet Sympatex at OutDoor by ISPO

With PFAS in the spotlight, the solution of waterproof membranes is changing faster than predicted. To specifically support everyone, Sympatex will discuss the subject at Outdoor by ISPO. You can find us in the Sustainability Hub at Outdoor

by ISPO, during the Daily Guided GRV Transparency Tours and listen to inspiring discussions in Atrium 3 / First floor / Speakers Corner on Monday, 5th of June 2023 at 1.20 PM and 2.40 PM CET. sympatex.com

SPONSORED CONTENT ETH

From Sustainability to Regeneration The ETH Zurich executive study program in Designing Resilient Regenerative Systems (DRRS) offers a novel approach to impact-studying while integrating new skills and cultures into the outdoor industry, among others.

“C

rises bear potential – we now have the opportunity to fundamentally redesign our societies, our economies, our lifestyles, our human-nature relation.” Tobias Luthe, DRRS program director at ETH Zürich, is not the type who gets discouraged in light of a world in crisis. The key for betterment lies in a fundamental transformation not only of the “system out there” but also of one’s own role in these processes. Only what thrives out of inner development holds the potential for real change. And pathways to change is what the first Certificate of Advanced Studies (CAS) ETH in Regenerative Systems offers.

“For dealing with complex systems, we need the relational capacity to connect not only between scientific disciplinary knowledge, but between different ways of

knowing and reasoning, between scientific worldviews and warm data, between scales of governance, and between communities of practice.”

The executive program hybridizes science, design, and transformative praxis. It builds on the qualities of top-notch basic and applied research at ETH in the service of science, society, industry, and politics.

It opens different worldviews, provides design tools and techniques and embodies systems physically through experiential (outdoor) didactics, social engagement, and personal flow experiences.

Participants of this hybrid program will become experts in navigating across complex topics – e.g. circularity in supply chains – and in engaging a rich array of hybrid methods, weaving their synergies for leading transformative impact in the real world.

COURSE AT A GLANCE The DRRS executive program updates on the latest state of sustainability science, deep-dives into regeneration across themes, offers ways to reframe complexity, engages in designerly ways of iterating, combines meta-design with place and project specificity, engages in design as nature and builds personal resilience through mind and movement. The QUEST is the navigation spine to create practical impact from day one on.

Application period: 20.04–31.05.2023 Start: September 2023 Duration: 3 months Format: Hybrid, virtual and flexible, with a parallel physical stream.

Includes an in-person field design trip to Italy (10.9.–20.09.2023).

regenerativesystems.ethz.ch suston – 55

Reaching new summits together.

June 04–06, 2023

Photo Credits: Carolin Unrath

Visit OutDoor by ISPO MOC – Event Center Messe München

Voices From the Show OutDoor by ISPO is one of the best networking platforms the outdoor industry has to offer the sustainability-minded. Four experts share their hopes and expectations for the show.

MARGO DE LANGE, SECRETARY GENERAL, IT’S GREAT OUT THERE COALITION Is there anything in particular that you will pay extra attention to at this trade show?

With the It’s Great Out There Coalition, we will keep our eyes peeled at the show for brands and retailers that explore the topic of diversity and inclusion and truly want to invest in participation.

We are only really reaching a small percentage of all outdoor enthusiasts that are out there. The potential of all those others is yet to be discovered.

ALEXANDRA DENKER, CATEGORY MANAGER FOR OUTDOOR BY ISPO & ISPO MUNICH, ORGANIZER OF THE SUSTAINABILITY HUB Besides the Sustainability Hub – what else should visitors keep an eye out for?

OutDoor by ISPO allows you to touch and feel the latest innovations and developments and listen to inspiring panels in the speakers corner or participate in workshops. Particularly interesting will be the program of the EOG on Monday morning, where there will be a lot of like-minded people and familiar faces to meet and exchange ideas about ecological and social responsibility.

SCOTT NELSON, OPERATIONS DIRECTOR, EUROPEAN OUTDOOR GROUP Do you see a need for physical get-togethers about sustainability? Why or why not?

The feedback and data overwhelmingly indicate that in-person meetings like OutDoor by ISPO are still absolutely critical. We’ve learned that much of the communication, project management, or administration of sustainability work can be shifted to a digital medium. However, the network effects, community, trend development, and energy found in the interpersonal exchanges that occur at these events consistently proves to be vital for progress.

MELANIE GRUENWALD, HEAD OF SUSTAINABILITY, YONDERLAND From your perspective – what are the main benefits of OutDoor by ISPO?

Sustainability issues urgently require vertical as well as horizontal collaboration across our industry. Whether we talk about reducing the carbon footprint of our products, creating more circularity, reducing single-use plastic or improving the transparency and accuracy of green claims, we cannot do it without our brands and our brands cannot do it without us. Outdoor at ISPO is a great platform to discuss and encourage, to learn from each other and to push one another to take action.

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EVENT CALENDAR

Sustainability Events at OutDoor by ISPO 2023 Meet the experts, join the discussions, and learn the latest in outdoor industry sustainability!

European Outdoor Group Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

9:55 – 10:10

Consumer Behaviour Insights: Wash and Care of Outdoor Jackets With: Nina Neundorfer, Sport Economics BSc, University of Bayreuth Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

10:00 – 10:55

SUNDAY, JUNE 4 11:00 – 12:00

Sustainability Hub Guided Tour Location: Sustainability Hub, Atrium 3

11:40 – 12:10

From sustainability to regeneration: how to integrate new skills and cultures into the outdoor industry?

With: Michael Grimm & Prof. Dr. Tobias Luthe, ZTH Zürich Location: Sustainability Hub, Atrium 3

13:40 – 14:10

Packaging impacts on sustainability for outdoor brands With: Adam Sarama, Billerud Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

14:20 – 14:50

Chemical Recycling Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

15:00 – 15:30

What to expect from the EU

strategy for more sustainable products Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

15:40 – 16:10

How to design for a circular future according to the upcoming ”Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation” Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

16:00 – 16:55

Innovation Lab - Session 3 Climate Solutions [workshop] With: Merijn DolsManaging Partner, NOW Partners Location: A31.107

MONDAY,JUNE 5 7:30 – 9:00

European Outdoor Group Industry Breakfast Location: Atrium 3

9:35 – 9:50

Outdoor Industry Approach to Circular Business Models With: Jane Turnbull – Sustainability Project Manager,

Innovation Lab - Session 4 Circular Economy Location: A31.107

10:15 – 10:45

The Realities of Scaling Supply Chain Decarbonisation With: Katy Stevens, CSR and Sustainability, European Outdoor Group Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

10:50 – 11:05

Supplier Collaboration: Implementing a Solar Rooftop Project With: David Eklund, Co-Founder and Co-CEO of Icebug Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

Sustainability Data Exchange Project: Prototype Presentation With: Katy Stevens, EOG; Maïté Angleys, BSI Location: A31.106

12:40 – 13:10

Outdoor Retailer Climate Commitment Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

13:00 – 15:00

Repair Workshop Location: A31.106

14:00 – 14:30

Complexities of Communication – Sustainability Reporting and Material Facts Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

14:00 – 14:55

Innovation Lab - Session 5 Benefit Corperations & B Corp Location: A31.107

15:00 – 16:00

Tools for Traceability - Sector Analysis: Transparency With: Joel Svedlund, Peak 63 Location: A31.106

16:00 – 18:00

Sustainability Sundowner Location: Sustainability Hub, Atrium 3

11:00 – 12:00

Sustainability Hub Guided Tour Location: Sustainability Hub, Atrium 3

11:45 – 12:20

Getting Europe Active Outdoors: Diversity in the spotlight With: Margo De Lange, Its Great Out There Coalition Location: Atrium 3

12:00 – 13:00

Sign up for the Suston Monthly!

TUESDAY, JUNE 6 11:00 – 12:00

Sustainability Hub Guided Tour Location: Sustainability Hub, Atrium 3

13:20 – 14:30

Climate Pitch Location: Speaker’s Corner, Atrium 3

Besides the Summer and Fall print issues of Suston Magazine, we also publish one of the most popular newsletters within the outdoor industry: The Suston Monthly. Each month, you will receive our stories, knowhow, inspiration, as well as best practices from our Suston Partners. Sign up and read more articles and guides at: sustonmagazine.com

NEXT PRINT ISSUE: Fall/Winter 2023 Gen Z on the rise, material innovations, and much more.

Published before ISPO Munich.

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