Suston #8, January 2020 by norragency

Suston SUSTAINABLE OUTDOOR NEWS NEWS // WINTER WINTER2020 2020

ECO VETERAN VOICES

They´ve They´ve fought fought the the good good fight fight for for decades. decades.

CLIMATE LEADERS

Meet Meet the the people, people, brands brands and and initiatives initiatives championing championing ambitious ambitious climate climate goals. goals.

PRODUCT

DURABILITY DURABILITY The The sustainability sustainability silver silver bullet bullet that that the the industry industry forgot forgot about? about?

#8 #8

BEING BEING BB CORP CORP

Can “Capitalism Can “Capitalism Lite”Lite” save save us? us?

PARTNER PARTNER PRESENTATIONS PRESENTATIONS

Good brands sharing Good brands sharing goodgood stories. stories.

ELECTRIC ELECTRIC ADVENTURES

Greg Hill’squest quest for zero Greg Hill’s for zero impact. impact.

What Would You Do Without Winter? Your winter. Your choice. Powder days are worth protecting. Connect with local groups and fight the climate crisis from your own backyard.

eu.patagonia.com/yourwinter

A bummed skier makes the best of it at the local lanes. Garrett Grove ÂŠ 2020 Patagonia, Inc.

3 QUESTIONS ABOUT EOCA’S PLASTIC PLEDGE In 2020, EOCA has challenged exhibitors at ISPO Munich to adopt the Plastic Pledge – can you explain what this is about?

“As part of our Plastic Free: Mountain to Sea campaign, the Plastic Pledge was launched just before Outdoor by ISPO last June to get exhibiting companies to think about the amount of single-use plastic that they used during one 4 day trade show. It focuses, in particular, on the vast amounts of single-use plastic used to provide refreshments and commits signees to encourage the use of reusable cups, glasses and bottles, to provide drinking water which visitors can use to top up their reusables, and not to use single-use plastic to serve their food and drinks, amongst other things. The reaction to the EOCA Plastic Pledge during OutDoor by ISPO 2019 surpassed all expectations. Exhibitors reported that this pledge was the nudge they needed to implement these changes. One exhibitor reported they had reduced waste on their stand by 75%.”

How many exhibitors have signed up?

“EOCA is now calling on more exhibitors to sign and implement the Pledge at ISPO 2020. This is open to all e xhibitors to the show – EOCA members and non-members. The more companies that sign the pledge, the more of a difference can be made reducing single-use plastic and thereby reducing our impact on the climate. At the time of writing, 69 exhibitors have signed the Plastic Pledge ahead of ISPO 2020.”

What are some of the most important steps exhibitors can take to reduce single-use plastic?

“Aside from refreshments, you can think about other single-use plastic involved in getting your stand and product to the show and home again afterwards. Can you wrap pallets differently, with something reusable? What giveaways do you have on the stand and will they be thrown away as soon as the recipient gets home? Rent or reuse your stand rather than building a new one each time. Consider ditching single-use carpet altogether. Finally, visitors to the show can also show their support to removing single-use plastic from trade shows by traveling to and around the show with their own reusable bottles and other items, and refusing single-use plastic items. Reusable bottles and cups will be available on the EOCA stand (A2.100) as part of the Conservation Fundraiser which runs throughout the show and raises money for the projects we support, thanks to the generosity of our members.” Tanya Bascombe & Catherine Savidge General Managers, EOCA outdoorconservation.eu/plasticpledge

PROVIDE A SOURCE OF DRINKING WATER AT YOUR STAND.

ENCOURAGE EMPLOYEES TO BRING THEIR OWN REUSABLE MUG OR BOTTLE.

DO NOT USE PLASTIC BOTTLED DRINKS DURING THE SHOW.

AVOID SINGLE-USE PLASTIC FOOD OR DRINK ITEMS ON THE STAND.

“PART OF OUR PLASTIC FREE: MOUNTAIN TO SEA CAMPAIGN”

EOCA was initiated by the

PHOTO: NORRØNA

PHOTO: STÉPHANE ROBIN

EDITORIAL & CONTENTS

34 Who will take the lead?

14 News

The latest sustainable Outdoor news.

20 Aiming Higher

Towards gender parity atop Pakistan’s peaks.

Gabriel Arthur, Editor-in-chief

24 Reef Challenge

PHOTO: JONAS GRATZER

Mending the Great Barrier Reef.

30 B Corp Revolution

Can “Capitalism Lite” save us?

34 Durability

The sustainability holy grail we already possess.

45 Veteran Voices

Meet sustainability champions who’ve been fighting for decades.

58 Climate Action

Brands rally around climate initiatives to achieve change.

64 Electric Adventures

20 Suston Editor-in-chief: Gabriel Arthur, gabriel.arthur@norragency.com Editor: Jonathan Frænkel-Eidse Art director: Susan Larsen & Markus Edin. Layout: Josefin Janson Cover illustration: Graham Samuels Editorial advisory board: Arne Strate, Katy Stevens, Joel Svedlund

PHOTO: MIRZA ALI

magine you’re out for dinner with friends. Not colleagues, but maybe doctors, teachers and programmers. You discuss world affairs. The fires in Australia. Greta Thunberg. Election year in the U.S.A. There’s a sense of anxiety. You throw a question into the discussion: “Business has incredible power, globally. Which industry do you think is taking the most responsibility for making the world a better place?” Everyone around the table turns silent. You try your own industry. “Maybe the outdoor industry?” Your friends look skeptical. “I don’t know enough about what that industry is doing,” says one of them. Because isn’t that how it is? For some years now, it feels like everybody in the outdoor industry is talking about sustainability. But that doesn’t mean everybody who’s interested in sustainability is talking about the outdoor industry. The majority of what happens stays within its own bubble. Imagine if instead there was an obvious response to such a question, when your friends are gathered around the dinner table. It would probably mean they would visit an outdoor retailer more often. That they would speak about your industry with other friends. Maybe that they would even like to work there! Also imagine how proud you could feel if you were a part of the obvious answer among your friends.

Greg Hill’s mission to find the lowest impact adventures.

83 Event Calendar

Discover the sustainability events and seminars at ISPO Munich.

Partner cooperation and sales: Victoria Reims, victoria.reims@sustonmagazine.com Suston is published by NORR Agency. norragency.com, info@norragency.com +46 8 462 0707, Metargatan 11, 116 66 Stockholm, Sweden sustonmagazine.com

suston – 7

OBSERVATION

Banff’s Transit Transition BY JONATHAN FRÆNKEL-EIDSE PHOTO NICK FITZHARDINGE

AS CANADA’S oldest and most internationally renowned

national park, Banff gets a lot of visitors. And as that number continues to grow, the main attractions, town centers and parking lots are experiencing increasing congestion. This leaves park planners with two choices – pave paradise and put up more parking lots or encourage public transit. Fortunately, Parks Canada chose the latter and three years later the public transit initiative is making a serious dent, as Angela Anderson, Director of the destination marketing organization behind the initiative explains: “We began a communications partnership with the Town of Banff and Parks Canada, encouraging people to take transit and leave their single occupancy vehicles at home.” Parallel to this information campaign, Parks Canada and the Town of Banff continued to expand the transit infrastructure in place, making it easier to take transit to the key parts of the park. The effects of this dual approach were quickly apparent, and people were eager to make use of these improved services. “Behavior change is definitely a long game, but the early results we see of people’s willingness to take transit tells us we will continue supporting the increased use of transit in the future.” An impact on “pinch points,” such as the downtown bridge in Banff and overcrowded parking lots by the main attractions, was especially felt. Year on year, a 7% increase in public transit use was accompanied by a -2% reduction of vehicles in the most congested areas. “We believe being in Canada’s first national park is our greatest asset and our greatest responsibility to act accordingly,” reflects Angela, and continues: “We need to ensure we are not only promoting the destination, but ensuring its protection and sustainability for now and for future generations.”

Funding Future Adventure BY JONATHAN FRÆNKEL-EIDSE PHOTO ALAMY

THE MASAI MARA National Reserve’s diversity of wildlife draws more than 150,000 tourists each year, providing livelihoods for thousands of local Kenyans and preserving millions of wild animals. Robust populations of lions, leopards, cheetahs and elephants make their home here, and the Masai Mara serves as the staging point of the annual “Great Migration” of wildebeests, zebras and gazelles to the Serengeti. But unfortunately, when it comes to the wildlife not everybody comes to the reserve with the best intentions. Since 1999, the Anne K. Taylor Fund’s “Fighting Poaching to Preserve Wildlife” project has fought to make poaching in the Masai Mara a most un-profitable and high-risk venture by applying legal pressure on poachers when they’re caught, dismantling and removing their traps, rescuing live animals that are already ensnared, and putting a stop to deforestation of habitat for charcoal production. The fund also supports local educational programs designed to promote an environmentally sustainable and tourism-friendly economy. Last November, the Anne K. Taylor Fund was one of five grant recipients of the Adventure Travel Conservation Fund (ATCF), a non-profit that allocates a $100,000 annual pot to projects that protect the cultural and natural resources that underpin the adventure tourism industry. adventuretravelconservationfund.org

OBSERVATION

Tiroleans say “Tschüss” to CO2 BY JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE

PREVIOUSLY IN SUSTON, we’ve highlighted how ski resorts

in the U.S., Switzerland and Finland are increasingly profiling themselves as green resorts – in the positive sense. Is it time for Austria to take the lead? Located in western Tirol, Ischgl’s reputation for reliable snow and immense terrain is closely followed by its infamously indulgent après ski scene and glamorous lifestyle off the slopes. This season, the resort now gains the repute of becoming the largest certified climate neutral ski resort in the Alps. Together with the German climate protection solutions provider Climate Partner, Ischgl began measuring the carbon footprint of its vast network of ski lifts, restaurants, snowmaking and snow grooming equipment and more. With a better idea of what they were up against, the next step was to begin cutting down on these emissions. With fully electric facilities already operating on an energy mix derived primarily from hydro, Ischgl expanded its use of energy-efficient heat recovery systems and alternative energy sources like solar and geothermal heating. Where electrification was not yet a viable solution, they were able to apply digital solutions that provided additional emissions reductions – such as GPS-enhanced grooming and precise snow-depth measurements for its arsenal of snowmakers. To limit the number of vehicles driving to the resort, the resort also provided a boost to its public ski bus service. Following efforts to reduce emissions, all remaining emissions are then annually offset through an internationally-recognized and certified climate protection project – most recently in the Peruvian rainforest as well as through an afforestation project in the nearby woodlands surrounding Paznaun – resulting in 10,465,600 kg CO2 being offset for 2019.

OBSERVATION

NEWS

Patagonia’s New Climate Goal PATAGONIA recently announced its plan to eliminate or mitigate all its carbon emissions by 2025. To achieve this goal, it will embark on a four-part process that is aimed to stabilize the company’s carbon footprint at zero, while the business continues to grow. The first part involves acquiring robust data using a third-party validated system to measure the company’s impacts from raw resource extraction to material creation to delivery of products to customers. With reliable data in hand, the second part involves reducing their impact. With the majority of emissions coming from producing the product’s materials, Patagonia plans increased use of recycled materials, extending product lifespans and a program that aims to calculate and reduce greenhouse gas emissions along Patagonia’s supply chain. The third part involves a conversion to renewable energy. Already by the outset of 2020, Patagonia aims to have its global owned and operated locations 100 percent renewably powered. Within its supply chain, Patagonia is also supporting its suppliers to invest in renewable energy projects at their facilities. The fourth and final part aims to capture the remaining carbon emissions via Regenerative Organic Agriculture and reforestation projects. 14 – suston

INTERNATIONAL SKI WAX BAN

Citing concerns for negative environmental and health impacts, the International Ski Federation (FIS) has announced that it will ban all fluorinated ski waxes from all its sponsored ski events effective winter 2020/2021.

REI’S 52 RESOLUTIONS FOR THOSE LOOKING TO make a difference in 2020, REI’s Opt to Act Plan has some suggestions. 52 of them, in fact, one for each week of the year. The first week of February, for example, participants are challenged to “Call your utilities company to ask about green energy options.” Some other highlights include: Week 3: Opt out of junk mail. Week 21: Celebrate Earth Day by contacting your local representative to advocate for environmental action. Week 23: Don’t wash your jeans all month. Week 33: Repair an item instead of purchasing a new one. Week 48: Attempt to create zero food waste this week.

AUSTRALIA’S CHERNOBYL MOMENT?

Australia’s climate policy – or lack of one – has often received criticism internationally. Will the ongoing wildfires change that? In Australian media, some are calling them a “Chernobyl moment” for the country and in a national survey in November, 57% stated they believe climate change is linked to bushfires.

PHOTO: ICEBUG

PHOTO: iSTOCK

Prof. Johan Rockström, Director of the Potsdam Institute for Climate Impact.

PHOTO: REI

“Welcome to 2020. The Year of Truth. The year when the rapid rise in curves must start bending downwards to give us a chance of having a stable planet to live on.”

Crowd-Funded Sustainable Shoe IN A BID to “shake up the shoe industry,” the Swedish shoe producer Icebug initiated a Kickstarter campaign last December with the goal of financing what Icebug claims will be the most sustainable running shoe on the market. The shoe, Outrun, is 200% carbon offset, is manufactured in a factory equipped with solar modules, has an outsole that is PFC free and made of 15 percent recycled rubber, an upper in recycled polyester and 20 percent of the midsole is made of Bloomfoam, a biomaterial made from algae. By January 9th, Icebug achieved its goal of SEK 200.000 (USD 21,000).

PHOTO: iSTOCK

NEWS

MOST SUSTAINABLE DESTINATION

Banned Substances 2.0 SINCE 2011, The Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Roadmap to Zero initiative has been maintaining a comprehensive Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MSRL) for the textile industry to achieve cleaner water, cleaner air, and safer production. This January marks the beginning of the transition period into the second revision of ZDHC’s MRSL, whereby signatories will have 12 months to align their production with the updated requirements.

The Global Destination Sustainability Index (GDS-Index) is the leading sustainability benchmarking and improvement programme for meetings and events destinations around the world. Topping the list for the last four consecutive years is the city of Gothenburg, Sweden.

PHOTO: MEC

LONDON’S MICROSMOG

FORGET SOUL MATES – FIND AN ACTIVITY BUDDY MANY MAY REMEMBER how easy it was to find playmates as kids. But adult life is different. Old friends lose touch, perhaps relocating to a new city. First bummed, the Canadian app developer Hafiz Mitha soon saw it for what it was – an opportunity. Partnering with Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC) and the Vancouver-based accelerator Radius Slingshot, Mitha developed PlayCity, a platform that works like a dating app, allowing users to find “activity buddies” based on activity type, fitness level and availability. Thanks in part to support from MEC’s community grant program, Playcity has been able to spread across Canada.

Textile microfibers have been found to be in abundance in the air we breathe. A recent report citing a sample from a nine-story building found 575-1,008 pieces of fibrous microplastic debris descends on every square meter of central London, every day. These particles can also remain airborne for weeks, and can be transported thousands of kilometers.

OUR COMMON GROUND

oes anyone else feel like we’re living in turbulent, confusing and crazy times? In this digital age, we have all the information, yet can’t agree in which direction we should be heading together. As much as in any other area, this challenge applies to CSR and sustainability. There is huge motivation and momentum building, but I fear that we are not making the most out of the opportunity. Everyone seems to be charging off in different directions. What are the next steps our businesses need to take to remain relevant? Is it about carbon, or climate in general, and what about the social side? What scientific foundation do we base these steps on? And how can we measure them? To better move forward together, I think we need to first define a very fundamental starting point: our common ground. We must address this before we talk about details or specific measures. In our case, isn’t where we come from also part of our future – and the very best reason for why we do what we do? Our sector only exists because there are beautiful nature and active people who want to venture out into it. The outdoor industry, as we in the EOG see it, stands on three pillars: Doing business right; conserving and restoring nature; and encouraging people to get active outdoors. If we build all that we do on these three pillars, we can prepare our sector for the future, prospering with sustainably profitable businesses, while giving back more than we take from nature and people. Achieving this requires collective leadership, investment and sustained commitment. Thanks partly to the work of the EOG, the outdoor sector already has a very successful history of working together and is now starting to gather around the three pillars. Having defined our industry’s common ground, having it in writing as our mission and vision, that is the opposite of confusion. Now we have to make it happen and the journey has already begun. Arne Strate, EOG General Secretary suston – 15

NEWS

Imagine a world where companies are powered entirely by renewable energy. RE100 is a leadership initiative that sets out to achieve just that – affirming that renewables are good for the environment and for business. Companies that commit to RE100 commit to energy transparency, with a goal of shifting to 100% renewables by a set year. there100.org

CLIF BAR IS IN

The American energy bar brand has been doing this successfully for the last 10 years, having purchased green electricity certificates covering 100% of its operations. Clif Bar’s latest achievement includes the addition of a massive solar farm and pollinator habitat at its Idaho bakery. Other participating brands include VF Corp and Nike.

PHOTO: TOMAS LISSÅKER

RENEWABLE ONLY

Are Green Fridays Here to Stay? PERHAPS THE LONG QUEUE outside of the Naturkompaniet, Sweden’s largest specialty outdoor retailer, store in Malmö wouldn’t normally raise any eyebrows on a Black Friday. But those waiting weren’t braving the cold for rock-bottom prices on the latest gear – they were there for the pop-up secondhand store. During the weeks prior, the Naturkompaniet shop in Malmö had collected around 500 products – everything from snowboards to thermo wear, shell jackets and old backpacks from the 70s. “It exceeded all expectations,” says store manager Björn Mattsson, who was responsible for the event. Indeed, it didn’t take long for the shelves to empty, with nearly 70 percent being sold before noon. At the end of the event, just ten percent remained to be picked up by its owners or donated to a local charity. In stark contrast to the usual Black Friday mayhem, Björn shared how he was moved by just

20 16 – suston

THIS YEAR, the Swiss environmental consultancy services provider and standard Bluesign celebrates 20 years of making the textiles industry’s supply chains cleaner and safer.

how positive the atmosphere was throughout the event: “Our customers are often satisfied, but this went beyond. I’ve never received so many positive comments – both in the shop and in social media,” shares Björn. While the huge response was inspiring, it also gave him some food for thought regarding how much stuff is probably lying around unused at people’s homes: “Good gear can have a long life, and the best from an environmental perspective is of course that whatever is already produced also gets used instead of us buying new all the time.” Naturkompaniet is joined by an increasing number of outdoor retailers and brand stores that have decided to buck the mass-consumption mania of Black Friday, year after year, begging the question of whether Green Fridays have gone beyond a clever, yet well-intentioned, PR stunt to become a new, established tradition?

PERCENT of a garment’s climate impact, 70 percent of its energy use and nearly 100 percent of the water and toxicity impacts occur during the production stage. Read more on page 34–36.

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: OUTDOOR RETAILER

...And carpets too

Driving Change in the Industry Outdoor brands are continually leading the way towards a sustainable industry. Twice a year, Outdoor Retailer offers them a responsible platform for sharing.

he outdoor industry has years of leadership in sustainable practices, and many of those efforts are recognized at the Outdoor Retailer trade shows. The B2B events, for example, bring the outdoor community together to do business. They also provide a platform for the industry to share discoveries, hurdles, and wins on the path to reducing impact. Just as brands have been making strides in responsible product development, Outdoor Retailer has similarly worked with vendors and partners to drive change in event production. Recycling efforts, refillable bottle programs, and the reuse of materials are just a few examples of initiatives that have long been a part of the show.

Farewell, single-use bottles... New for the show’s Summer Market in 2019, Outdoor Retailer was able to eliminate the sale of single-use bottles with support from the venue, the Colorado Convention Center in Denver, and concessionaire, Centerplate. “Outdoor Retailer is a platform for the outdoor industry, and our show reflects the values of our community,” said Jennifer Pelkey, Senior Marketing Director, Outdoor Retailer. “The eliminate-single-use-bottles campaign is something we’ve worked on together with brands like CamelBak, Klean Kanteen, Stanley, and Nalgene on for more than ten years, and this represents a milestone we’ve now been able to achieve in Denver.”

Starting with the June 2019 show, Outdoor Retailer also eliminated aisle carpet. The show had been using carpet made from up to 50% post-industrial fibers which was returned to the manufacturer for reuse or recycling. Getting rid of it saved 1,200 gallons of diesel fuel from shipping, preventing 12 metric tons of carbon from entering the atmosphere. These efforts laid the groundwork for subsequent shows in the convention center to do the same, as well as events in other markets. And through initiating a sustainability audit at the summer show, Outdoor Retailer plans to apply those learnings to the show, as well as provide more sustainability solutions for those attending and exhibiting. But, the bigger sustainability stories at the Outdoor Retailer shows are always evident in the brands and retailers. They’re finding innovative approaches to reduce impact in products and processes – from new fabrics to cleaner manufacturing. Many are working with the Outdoor Industry Association’s Sustainability Working Group to identify ways to improve. And, all are inspiring each other to make social and environmental stewardship a priority. “Changes were achieved because individuals and brands are willing to look at their own impact,” Pelkey said. “There’s a lot to be said for groundswell support and an environment where individuals and organizations accept wholesale changes to move initiatives forward. As we all plan ahead now, whether as brands or retailers, we all need to consider our own choices and the impact we want to have. Part of what Outdoor Retailer is doing, and will continue to do, is to make the choices our attendees have easier. The rest will be looking at ourselves and how we, as an event, can achieve not only a net zero impact, but a net positive impact.”

TWO SHOWS IN 2020 Outdoor Retailer’s Outdoor + Snow Show takes place January 29-31, 2020 at the Colorado Convention Center in downtown Denver, Colorado. Summer Market will be at the same venue from June 23-25, 2020. outdoorretailer.com suston – 17

PARTNER: BERGANS SPONSORED CONTENT

Even so, both partners emphasize the importance of launching the product for consumers to let them take part in its further development. “We want to let consumers get to know our material by allowing them to physically test products. For that, we need innovative and risk-willing manufacturers. Bergans has shown a pragmatic and open attitude to trying new materials, even before they are commercially profitable,” says Janne Poranen, CEO of Spinnova.

A new way of owning

A Backpack Made From Wood Spinnova and Bergans have entered a collaboration with a clear goal: To develop a new and revolutionary way of sustainably manufacturing textiles. The very first prototype product is already in use.

ast year, the Finnish fiber producer and Norwegian outdoor brand announced they had entered a long-term product development collaboration, combining Finnish and Norwegian interests in sustainability, technology and outdoor life. The aim was to further develop a technology for cellulose-based textile fibers, without any harmful chemicals. And the hope was nothing less than finding solutions to revolutionize the textile industry. Technologies based on cellulose textile fibers through chemical processes have existed for some time. What makes Spinnova’s solution so revolutionary is that all harmful chemicals are replaced by a mechanical process. The patented technology includes neither waste nor side streams, reducing the fiber and production method’s impact substantially.

18 – suston

Spinnova’s raw material commitment is to only use FSC certified wood or material from waste streams. Bergans of Norway is one of the first suppliers to develop a complete product made using the Spinnova fiber. After great efforts, the Norwegian brand presented the first product using the new technology already at the end of last year: a plain backpack using Scandinavian wood as raw material and made without harmful chemicals. “The aim with this futuristic product is to get the Spinnova technology tested. Our hope is that the project could be a step towards a more sustainable textile consumption,” says Bergans CEO Jan Tore Jensen.

A new way of producing

The product is still a prototype and only available in a very limited quantity.

But it’s not only about inventing new materials and products. The Norwegian developers are also eager to test new ways of consumption and circular business models. And the way the new backpack with the “wooden” fiber will be linked to the consumer market is unlike anything else. Even if the pack will be tested among Scandinavian and German consumers, it’s not for sale in the traditional way. The idea is to give consumers the opportunity to buy in as co-owners in the fabric quantity. “Currently, the fabric quantity is designed for backpacks. After a period of use, the consumer can return the backpack, have it recycled into new Spinnova material and reshaped into a new and different product,” suggests Johannes Flem, designer at Bergans Future Labs. And so, the cycle will continue.

ISPO Munich: Hall A2/216 bergans.com

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: IWTO

Wool – Natural, Circular Sustainability The International Wool Textile Organisation’s Dalena White outlines wool’s sustainability credentials at every stage of the product life cycle.

mong the many benefits of using wool, its sustainability is one of the most compelling. Meanwhile, its performance characteristics during use are such that woollen garments should surely be high on a wish list for any active person. This combination clearly sets wool apart from the competition making this fiber, which has been used for thousands of years by humans, more relevant now than ever. But in an era during which manufacturers and consumers are being overwhelmed with claims and counter claims about performance and sustainability, how do we cut through the myriad of available information? In short, the answer is that we must use facts and figures to target the right audiences with the most relevant information and make a clear and scientifically proven case for wool. The good news is that this work is already well underway. Our industry has recently got off the starting blocks to champion wool as a great material for runners and outdoor enthusiasts, during both activity and at rest. New research by Raechel M. Laing at the University of Otago in New Zealand showed that wool, overwhelmingly more than any other fiber type, has the attribute of odor resistance. This is a triple win: It’s a win for sustainability, because wool has to be washed less often, using less detergent and water; it’s a win for wellness because of the full package of performance benefits - odor resistance, plus breathability,

warm-when-it’s-cool-and-cool-whenit’s-warm properties, and comfort next to the skin of superfine Merino garments; and it’s a win for people who love the outdoors, because wool not only performs, it also lasts and looks great. This can resonate on multiple fronts and our messages are starting to gain traction in a greater range of relevant target media, such as Runner’s World.

Naturally long lifespan

Durability – or longevity – is a particular area where using wool represents a big net positive in sustainability terms. Whichever way you approach the subject, it’s clear that wool is a sustainable choice. Well-made woollen garments last, so in simple terms they don’t have to be replaced as often. As I have already noted, they have to be washed less often, which itself extends product life and uses fewer resources in the process. Looking at sustainability from a different perspective, if wool returns to the ecosystem after the end of life of a garment, it’s a natural fibre that will biodegrade. This is in sharp contrast to synthetic materials. These are areas where wool’s sustainability really shines through and that is characterised by clear and well-established circularity: Sheep turn grass into wool, we harvest it once a year, it grows back; wool is fashioned into garments, garments are used until they are worn out, the wool can return to the ecosystem, which can then produce more mate-

rial. That’s how humans have interacted with wool for millennia. Of course, there are more factors involved today, but the fundamental circular economy that wool offers is the same as ever – reliable, robust and renewable. Now add the material’s other properties to the mix, and woollen garments really hit the sweet spot, as both the best choice for active, healthy living, and the most comprehensive sustainable purchase options. For many years, the International Wool Textile Organisation has been leading the way in establishing a solid portfolio of scientific evidence about the sustainability of wool and since 2011, our members have collectively contributed more than €560,000 to this work. Those efforts have been substantial and the results are now delivering the robust, significant data that reinforces our sector’s position as a champion of sustainability, and which we are communicating in a more strategic and impactful way than we have ever done before. Dalena White is the Secretary General of IWTO, the authority for standards in the wool industry.

Next IWTO Congress: 18-20 May 2020 in Tongxiang – more details at iwto.org suston – 29

LEADERSHIP

The Rise of Meaningful Business More and more businesses are becoming B Corps – effectively altering their corporate DNA to legally mandate a triple bottom line of people, profit and planet. Is “Capitalism Lite” the new way of doing business? BY SAMUEL DIXNEUF PHOTO JURRE ROMPA

T HANNAH MUNGER Head of PR & Communications, B Lab

he annual study Edelman Earned Brand tells how brands can “earn, strengthen and protect their relationships with consumers.” Around 40,000 respondents in Brazil, China, France, Germany, India, Japan, the U.K. and the U.S. take part and in 2018, one opinion stood out. The report found that 64 percent of consumers now self-identify as “Belief-Driven Buyers” – a 13-point increase from 2017 – and concluded: “These consumers said that they use brands to demonstrate their personal values. They will choose, switch, avoid or boycott a brand based on where it stands on the political or social issues they care about.” Another Edelman study focused on employers, and in 2019 it noted a similar shift when it comes to what people demand of the companies they work for. These studies are only two examples that demonstrate how values change in society and about how companies should – or must – take into account other factors than the bottom line to remain relevant. A growing group of companies - the B Corporations - endeavor to do just that.

Founders with a mission

The three founders of the nonprofit organization B Lab had anticipated this trend towards valuesdriven business long ago. “B Lab was founded in 2006 by 3 friends, Bart Houlahan, Jay Coen Gilbert, and Andrew Kassoy in an effort to create the market infrastructure to make it easier for mission-driven businesses to protect and improve their positive impact over

time,” explains Hannah Munger, Head of PR & Communications at B Lab. After certifying the first nineteen B Corps in 2007, B Lab’s founders realized that they needed a legal framework and credible standards in a marketplace where everyone claimed that they were a “good” company. Seeing this as the natural next step, in 2010 B Lab began lobbying US states to pass “benefit corporation” legislation. Benefit corporations expand the obligations of boards, requiring them to consider environmental and social factors, as well as the financial interests of shareholders. This gives directors and officers the legal protection to pursue a mission and consider the impact their business has on society and the environment.

Coming of age

Meanwhile in corporate America, business leaders had begun slowly waking up to the fact that shareholder profit isn’t everything. Last summer The Business Roundtable, an association of CEOs of America’s leading companies, declared that business was “responsible for providing economic benefits to all, not just its investors.” After the official announcement from the Business Roundtable, thirty American B Corporations including Cotopaxi, Klean Kanteen and Patagonia, seized the occasion to challenge the Business Roundtable. A full-page ad was released in the New York Times at the end of August 2019, with the headline Get To Work: “We are businesses that meet the highest standards of social and environmental performance. Business Roundtable, we’d like

The 2019 B Corp Summit took place in Amsterdam in the end of September, bringing together Certified B Corps, business leaders, changemakers, and companies from Europe and beyond.

B CORPS & B LAB Certified B Corporations are businesses that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose. B Corps are accelerating a global culture shift to redefine success in business and build a more inclusive and sustainable economy. B Lab is the nonprofit that administers the B Corp certification. bcorporation.net

LEADERSHIP

Globally, there are over 3000 certified B Corporations located in 71 countries.

new legal status to make it more credible.” While national legal structures may pose challenges, Hannah Munger believes that the B Corp certification process as a whole remains credible even in international contexts: “The process to achieve B Corp certification is rigorous and holistic. Certified B Corporations must achieve a minimum verified score on the B Impact Assessment (or BIA)—an assessment of a company’s impact on its workers, customers, community, and environment—make their score public on our website, and recertify every three years. Certified B Corporations also amend their legal governing documents to require their board of directors to balance profit and purpose.”

Join the community

to help you get there, too, to meet your newly announced stakeholder values. Let’s get to work—together.”

An international movement

NATHAN GILBERT B Lab Europe, Executive Director

ELIZABETH SOUBELET

Board Member, B Lab France

Today, a company can register as a benefit corporation in 34 states and Washington, DC. Italy was the first country outside the US to adopt this policy, and Colombia and the province of British Colombia in Canada have since followed. In Europe, there are now about 600 B Corporations in 20 countries, with a steady growth. Nathan Gilbert, B Lab Europe Executive Director explains: “The movement really picked up the last couple of years as there are more leaders and influential companies paving the way. The certification applies easily to European constraints which makes it globally relevant.” Many of the European countries already have laws and regulations addressing companies that want to integrate stakeholder consideration into their governance structure. However, these national systems are not always a perfect match with the legal requirements in the B Corp certification process, which have some concerned about its overall exportability. For instance, in 2019 France enacted Loi Pacte, which puts forward the special legal status of a Société à Mission. (“mission-driven company”). B Lab France subequently issued a few recommendations to explain that “the system created by the Loi Pacte was too permissive and could lead to mission-washing. Elizabeth Soubelet, board member of B Lab France, comments: “We think it is important to strengthen this

From just 82 B Corps in 2007 to over 3,000 today, B Corps are booming. “People want to buy from, work for, and do business with companies they believe in and with whom they share values – like B Corps.” There are three layers in the B Corp movement explains Elizabeth Soubelet from B Lab France. Firstly, the B Impact Assessment (BIA), an online, open source tool, which helps businesses assess where they are and think about how to renew their business model. The second layer involves the certification for companies who really want to challenge themselves. “The last layer is a tight knit community which grows together and cooperates as often as possible.”

READY TO TAKE THE TEST? Did you know that... Cotopaxi, Finisterre, Kathmandu, Klean Kanteen, Patagonia, Picture Organic Clothing, Sympatex, Tentree, United By Blue ...are all Certified B Corps? For those interested in becoming a B Corp, the first step is the B Impact Assessement (BIA), an open source questionnaire allowing any business to challenge itself. A company needs 80 (verified) points out of 200 to pass, and certification must be renewed every three years. The certification is only for “for profit companies.” bimpactassessment.net

LEADERSHIP

“Becoming a B Corp was a very humbling experience” The French outdoor brand Picture officially became a B Corp in November 2019. Florian Palluel shares about the long journey. BY SAMUEL DIXNEUF

Why did you choose to become a B Corp?

When Picture was born, 10 years ago, it was imagined and conceived as an eco-friendly brand. Since then, we have relentlessly questioned what we were doing, socially and environmentally, so as to keep improving. Becoming a B Corp was a way for us to have this recognized and to realize whether what we had done had any value when confronted with an exacting certification (200 questions tackling a wide variety of topics, ranging from governance and human resources management, to the material used in our production). Finally, we considered that the certification would provide us with a road map: What could be done in the future to be even better, and how?

How did you get started?

In April 2019, I started working on the B Impact assessment, an open source questionnaire provided by B Labs. The idea was to see whether our score could go beyond 80, the minimum required to be certified. This process took several months. According to my evaluation, Picture could reach 107 points, hence we got in touch with B Lab. From September to November, B Lab audited the brand and our score quickly fell to 57! It was a shock! We didn’t know why we lost so many points. Afterwards, we had to provide all the supporting documents to prove that what we were saying was accurate. Gradually, our score went back up and made it to 85.4. It was a very humbling experience.

Were there any more surprises or realizations along the way?

We were particularly proud to see that our commitment to using recycled fabrics and organic cotton on a wide range of our products, and not only in one item of a collection, paid off. A brand has to be fully committed to change. However, some of the things we had implemented with our supply chain couldn’t be taken into account as it was too difficult to get the right documents to prove it.

What advantages does the B Corp certification provide?

Firstly, it provides a roadmap on how to improve. I also think this certification is the most comprehensive one. It certifies all the aspects of a company, not only one particular aspect of its activity. As such, it provides us with extra credibility, especially on the American market. In addition, there is some kind of solidarity between B Corp members. We cooperate and exchange best practices.

What’s next for your company?

We have now amended our company’s statuses to incorporate the required paragraphs showing that we are willing to have a positive environmental and social impact on the world. We even went further by protecting this “mission” even in case of ownership changes. Now we are determined to improve our score for our next certification in 3 years. We’ll move forward collectively, with all our stakeholders and employees.

FLORIAN PALLUEL Sustainability and Transparency Manager, Picture Organic Clothing.

THE RETURN OF DURABILITY?

Doubling the lifespan of a product reduces its impact by 50% â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a sustainability silver bullet if there ever was one. Repair and re-commerce, sure, but why are so few talking about durability? BY JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE

LONGEVITY

hen it comes to product durability and potential for longevity, the outdoor industry starts at a pretty sweet spot. This is especially true when one compares to its embarrassing cousin, the apparel industry and its fast fashion. “The outdoor industry is built on longevity and durability as a matter of course,” explains Katy Stevens, Head of CSR and Sustainability at the European Outdoor Group. “Many outdoor brands were started by ‘users’, climbers, mountaineers who were not happy with the gear that was available and so decided to make their own. This user-centered design approach results in products that fit better, perform better and are innately more durable.” Today, other product longevity efforts like repair and second-hand marketplaces are rampant in the outdoor industry. For either of these to work, the product must first be made to last. Yet Katy Stevens and other observers are concerned that durability is in decline and as a sustainability strategy, it is far eclipsed by a focus on production stage impacts. The same believe there’s a strong case for why this ought to be the other way around.

A strategic choice If this is the case, product longevity beats many other sustainability efforts in orders of magnitude. Two outdoor brands in particular, Arc’teryx and Norrøna, have banked their sustainability strategies on just this.

Keep it in-house On the other side of the Atlantic, the Norwegian brand Norrøna has also placed product durability at the forefront for nearly a century to become some what of a national icon. Indeed, it’s not uncommon to see people sporting their grandmother’s Norrøna coat on the ski slopes and city streets. Norrøna operates its own, fully-equipped in-house production facility at its headquarters just outside of Oslo. When Suston visits the company in December, Brad Boren, Director of Innovation and Sustainability, provides a tour of their production, testing and repair facilities. When asked what part of the tour the average brand lacks that results in Norrøna’s superior durability, Brad Boren replied: “Well…” he pauses briefly, “all of it.” He then continues to explain that while it used to be the industry norm, most brands no longer

Left: Norrøna argues that extensive field testing of each product is critical to ensuring its durability in real-world conditions. Below: As more and more brands choose to outsource product development, Arc’teryx believes having their own in-house production facilities enables them to create superior product durability.

PHOTO: ALEX WABER/ARC’TERYX

PHOTO: NORRØNA

The case for durability “We know that about 80% of the climate impact, and in principle 100% of the water and toxicity impacts of a garment is caused by the production,” explains Sandra Roos, apparel LCA researcher from Mistra Future Fashion, a research program by the The Foundation for Strategic Environmental Research in Sweden. At first glance, these figures can be seen to justify why many industry actors are fixated on chipping off a percentage point here and a ton of carbon there during the production phase – this represents the vast majority of a product’s impact. But Sandra Roos is quick to point out that there’s another way of looking at this: “use” only accounts for 2.9% of a product’s impact, making the sustainability implications of product long evity crystal clear: “This means that a garment will have a lower ‘environmental cost per use’ per time it is used. Therefore, a doubled lifetime of garments would in theory mean that only half the amount of garments would need to be produced, and the impacts in the production phase would be reduced by half.”

Perhaps no other North American outdoor company has managed to make its label as synonymous with durability as the Canadian brand Arc’teryx. Katie Wilson, Product Compliance and Sustainability Manager at Arc’teryx, explains how they’ve earned this reputation thanks to their focus on the user: “At the heart of our designs is the desire to build products that our users can depend on – tough enough to endure relentless mountain environments and the rigors of the activities they pursue there. The construction and materials are specifically chosen to last, which means our users don’t need to go find a replacement every season or two.” Aside from user implications, product durability is also tantamount to product sustainability at Arc’teryx. Indeed, “durability” is the very first word on their CSR landing page titled Sustainability: Designed for the Long Run.

suston – 35

CLIMATE IMPACT OF SWEDISH CLOTHING CONSUMPTION, CONTRIBUTION OF LIFE-CYCLE PHASES - 2019 Use-phase laundry, 2,9%

Distribution & retail, 3,1%

Use-phase transports, 10,8%

Transports in production, 0,5% Confectoning, 15,6%

Wet treatment, 23,5%

End-of-life treatment, 2,8%

Fibre production, 16,3%

Yarn production, 10,4%

Fabric production, 14,1%

Source: G. Sandin et. al. (2019). “Environmental Assessment of Swedish Clothing Consumption”. Mistra Future Fashion.

have their own in-house production department for prototyping products, but instead outsource this to other, out of country facilities. Nor do they have long product development times or significant field testing. In his view, these were critical mistakes in terms of product durability: “Without these steps, you don’t really know what’s going into your product and how it will do in real-world conditions.” Supporting this explanation, Arc’teryx is also one of a shrinking number of brands that still has its own local production facilities, ARC’One in Vancouver, whose designers thoroughly test their creations in the rugged Coastal Mountains. But if this type of product development and testing used to be the norm – what happened? It’s the economy, stupid Katy Stevens believes part of the explanation lies in that as many small brands grew up from selling products to climbing buddies and stepped into a fiercely competitive global marketplace, the forces here incrementally changed the way many of them operated: “Ultimately, business is about making money, and not many businesses are driven with a ‘buy less’ attitude.” It’s axiomatic that the most sustainable product is the one never made – unfortunately, this is a complete non-starter in today’s business context. But Sandra Roos notes that the financial argu36 – suston

ments are overwhelmingly in favor of long-lived products. For the customer, that is: “A garment that costs 100 euro and is used 10 times will have a cost per use of 10 euro, while the same garment if used 100 times will have a cost per use of 1 euro.” And speaking of the customer: A product can be made to survive until the next ice age, but this has no sustainability gains if it isn’t used. As Sandra Roos explains: “People discard clothes because they change size, they happen to stain the garments, they get tired of the design, they wash and dry the garment the wrong way… etc. So, the relation between lifetime and sustainability is 1:1, while the relation between durability and sustainability also depends on other factors.” Can’t we have it all? So, while durability has great impact reduction potential, much of its potential rests on a factor – the consumer - that cannot be controlled. How then it ought to be prioritized amongst other sustainability efforts remains an open question. Arc’teryx is committed to improving the environmental performance along its production. But when it comes to sustainable materials, Katie Wilson says that they take a cautious approach, using them only if they strike a balance with durability requirements. Back at Norrøna HQ, Brad Boren acknowledges how a bumpy start with sustainable materials also led them to put more resources into testing: “We’ve had a few tough lessons along the way, and learned that when dealing with each new fiber…full testing is necessary to determine how it will hold up once it leaves the store. This has been especially true for sustainable fibers.” To facilitate product development dilemmas, Norrøna requires all products meet four criteria – Quality (aka Durability), Function, Design and Sustainability – in that order. When Suston points out that not having a fifth criteria makes sustainability their last priority, Brad counters by explaining how this order actually makes logical sense from a sustainability perspective: “Imagine we focused primarily on sustainability and reduced quality, functionality and attractiveness. This would result in a short-lived product. No matter how sustainably produced, the short use stage would negate any savings in the production phase. The way I see it, sustainable fibers only make sense if they meet these other criteria.” Despite its measured approach, today Norrøna’s collection is packed with preferred fibers. Brad Boren is convinced it’s possible to have both a durable product with a sustainable production, but his conviction comes with a caveat: “This only works after you’ve done your research.”

LONGEVITY

Longevity in Action Long-lasting products aside, getting consumers to actually keep their product in use requires support. Perhaps none go to such great lengths as Patagonia’s Worn Wear program. BY JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE PHOTOS PATAGONIA

through education and special services. Worn Wear has since grown to encompass Patagonia’s repair, trade-in, and online re-commerce marketplace - repairing 100,000 products and putting a further 85,000 up for resale annually. Worn Wear also includes Patagonia’s recycling programme, whereby customers can either drop off or mail in their apparel that can no longer be repaired or resold. Since 2005, Patagonia has recycled over 82 tons of clothing. Alpine tour 3.0 But sometimes it’s not enough to wait for the customer to come to you – people are busy out having fun, after all – so you have to bring the service to the

customer. That’s the idea behind the Worn Wear Tour, anyway, a quirky repair service a-la Jack Kerouac that has previously made appearances across the US and Europe. Going into its third winter season in Europe, the people at Worn Wear anticipated a fresh wave of tree-skiing tears and iced-up zippers, and decided to take their service directly to the customer at snow destinations throughout Europe in the 2019/20 Worn Wear Snow Tour. The repair team onboard will offer repairs on a first come, first serve basis. And since they are just out to spread the longevity love, they won’t discriminate against other clothing brands, nor charge a single Eurocent for their time.

WORN WEAR SNOW TOUR 15.2. - 21.2. France 25.2. - 4.3. Switzerland 7.3. - 22.3. Austria & Germany 25.3. - 31.3. Italy All tour stops can be found at: eu.patagonia.com

PHOTO: AARON SCHWARTZ

“A

s individual consumers, the single best thing we can do for the planet is to keep our stuff in use longer,” penned Rose Marcario, CEO of Patagonia, in a public letter titled Repair is a Radical Act. “This simple act of extending the life of our garments through proper care and repair reduces the need to buy more over time—thereby avoiding the CO2 emissions, waste output and water usage required to build it.” Patagonia’s longevity ethos assumed form in its Worn Wear programme back in 2013, with the task of encouraging people to take care of their gear and help keep it in circulation as long as possible

suston – 37

PARTNER: GORE SPONSORED CONTENT

Durable Performance Counts A key pillar of Gore’s sustainability strategy is the longevity of its GORE-TEX products. Through proper wash and care, consumers can take their share of responsibility in prolonging the useful life of their outdoor gear.

utdoor enthusiasts value waterproof, windproof and breathable clothing, shoes and accessories made with GORE-TEX product technology and trust in Gore’s GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY™ promise. In addition to protecting people from harsh weather conditions, Gore has always been striving to protect the environment by reducing the impact that GORE-TEX garments may have on our nature – their “environmental footprints.” As an innovative and technology driven company, Gore believes in sustainability

38 – suston

as a journey. But this journey can only be successful if everyone – from manufacturers and retailers to the end users of outdoor apparel – is aware and takes responsibility to make it a success. In that context Gore’s Fabrics Division has set the goal of eliminating so-called “PFCs of Environmental Concern (PFCEC)” from the entire life cycle of its GORE-TEX products. One of the first achievements was the introduction of GORE-TEX products with a new high-performance durable water repellent (DWR) treatment that is free of PFCEC. Many GORE-TEX products are treated

with an ultra-thin durable water repellent (DWR), a polymer that’s applied to the outermost fabric layer of the garments. This DWR prevents the garment from picking up water, thus reducing the potential clammy or cold feeling that often comes with wet fabric. Any of today’s DWR treatments are durable but it is not permanent, such that the treatment needs to be reactivated to keep it as effective as possible. Through proper care of their garments, consumers can take their share of responsibility for protecting the environment. In general, good routine care – in particular

20 minutes in the tumble dryer is often enough to reactivate a garment’s DWR.

of the DWR – will maintain excellent performance and thus can extend the useful life of GORE-TEX gear, which remains the most effective way to reduce its environmental footprint. This has been proven by scientific Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) studies that Gore and independent scientists have conducted to assess the entire lifespan of finished outerwear products from “cradle to grave.” In other words: well-maintained garments and gear will serve their purpose longer, which is good for the people, good for their budget, and also good for the environment.

GORE-TEX fabric care is easy

More good news: GORE-TEX fabric care is easy. In general, users should follow the manufacturer’s wash instructions for their product to remove dirt and sweat from the garment, then dry the garment. Once it’s dry, it should be tumble dried for a further 20 minutes. Applying heat to the garment reactivates the DWR treatment and both water repellency and comfort are improved. The same procedure should be applied to any brand-new GORE-TEX jacket, or other outerwear to

activate its DWR properly prior to being used for the first time. To help users prolong the lifetime of their outdoor garments, Gore offers detailed advice on proper care – as well as on repair – of GORE-TEX gear via a variety of sources, such as Gore websites, videos on YouTube and ongoing activities on several social media platforms. As part of its sustainability efforts, Gore wishes to reinforce the importance of proper garment cleaning and care, and seeks support with its brand partners and retailers to educate consumers on the recommended wash & care requirements of a GORE-TEX garment. The objective of this initiative is obviously not only to jointly help consumers optimize the performance and prolong the longevity of their gear, bu much more importantly, improve its sustainability – for the sake of today’s environment and future generations’ well-being.

ISPO Munich: Hall A1/404 OR Snow Show: 54045-UL gore.com

GORE PILOT PROJECT OFFERING PROFESSIONAL WASH & CARE SERVICES For outdoor enthusiast looking for professional services that help to prolong the useful life of their gear, Gore ran a “Wash & Care” pilot project in Germany and Austria. Services on offer included washing and drying as well as refreshing the durable water repellent (DWR) treatment. Consumers could register online, post their gear to the team, and have it returned in two working days – ready for new adventures. Having successfully finished the pilot phase, Gore is considering to establish its “Wash & Care” project permanently in Germany and Austria, and potentially expanding its reach to other key markets in Europe, and beyond.

suston – 39

LONGEVITY

Repairing is Caring For our grandparents, it was just something they did on an everyday basis. Today, we need to rediscover how to take care of our favorite gear. Suston gives nine great tips to start with. BY MATS NYMAN ILLUSTRATION NADIA NORBÖM

Be prepared!

It’s always a good idea to keep a repair kit with you in case the unexpected happens. A multi-tool, a needle and roll of extra strong thread, patches for clothes and sleeping pads and a small roll of silver tape can do wonders when misfortune occurs. Keep in mind that many manufacturers and retailers also offer both repair services and spare parts for their products.

Save the down

Down jackets and sleeping bags often have thin and delicate outer shells. A glowing ember from a fire or a sharp twig can easily make a hole or rip where the down could find its way out. This can be temporarily repaired with a piece of silver tape. Be sure to push in the down that is sticking out before applying the tape. For a more permanent repair, there are ready-to-use patches available for purchase. Cut the patch to cover the hole leaving a slight overlap. Lay the jacket or sleeping bag as flat as possible, remove the protective film on the patch and attach it to the fabric.

Good for a night’s sleep

When you’re out on a tour, a leak in your sleeping pad can be a nightmare. Make sure to always have a repair kit for your sleeping pad with you. The repair will depend on the sleeping pad material. There are self-adhesive repair patches available for certain ones while others require glue. If the leak is difficult to find: Inflate the sleeping pad, fold it in half to increase the pressure and immerse it in water and see where the bubbles are coming from. Carefully

40 – suston

clean the area around the hole. Repair kits often come with a cleaning agent. Cut a decent-sized piece of the patch off and attach it carefully according to the instructions.

Keep moisture out

Soft-shell pants and jackets that have gotten torn should be repaired quickly to keep the hole from getting larger. Silver tape often works well as a temporary fix, but it’s a good idea to make a more permanent repair later on. To ensure that the shell garment remains waterproof, it’s a good idea to fix it on both the inside and outside. Start with the inside and attach a patch that holds the rip together. Then attach a patch on the outside as well. Rounded corners ensure the patch sits better.

Zipper repair

Zippers are a common headache. If the zipper doesn’t close properly, it’s likely that the slider is broken. Use a pair of pliers and cut off the zipper stop at the top. Thread on a new slider and gently attach a new stop using pliers. If the zipper has lost teeth, the entire zipper will need to be replaced. Those who are handy can do it themselves by removing the old zipper and sewing on a new one. Otherwise you can leave it with a tailor or repair service.

Patching boots

Going on a hike in leaky boots is no fun. But rubber is often easy to fix. Which method is best depends on the kind of rubber that is used in the boot. Real rubber can be repaired with a bicycle tube patch. Make sure that the boot

is cleaned around the hole and rough up the surface using sandpaper before spreading a thin layer of solution on. Allow it to dry a little and then carefully attach the patch. If the boot is made of mixed materials, there are different types of rubber adhesives available such as Liquisole, Shoe Goo and Rubberfix.

Take care of your stove

Repairing the arch

Longer life for your backpack

Gas and spirit stoves are relatively maintenance-free, but Multi-fuel stoves can get covered in soot. When you’re out in the field, it is easiest to clean the burner with a needle. At home, compressed air works great for cleaning. A cracked tent arch can be repaired by first bending back the damaged section to make it as straight as possible. Tent manufacturers often ship a piece of tubing that fits over the tent arch. Thread the pipe over the damaged part and secure it with silver tape. To replace the entire damaged section: Remove the plug at one end of the tent arch. This will allow you to loosen the elastic cord. Pull out the cord and replace the damaged section. Thread the cord back through all the sections and reattach the end plug.

The plastic buckles on backpacks are often the first to go. New buckles can be purchased and are often easy to replace. Sometimes a little sewing is required to attach the buckles. If you don’t have a sewing machine that’s strong enough, leave the backpack with a tailor or shoemaker to get it repaired.

suston â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 41

PARTNER: FJÄLLRÄVEN SPONSORED CONTENT

Unfashionable by Design Many outdoor companies know how to create durable clothes and equipment. But how sustainable are these products if they feel outdated a year later and end up in the closet? Not so much, if you ask Christiane Dolva Törnberg, Head of Sustainability at Fjällräven.

jällräven has been proclaiming the same decree over and over since 1960: “We make functional, durable, timeless clothes and equipment that make great outdoor activities even better.” Functionality and durability are given traits, of course, and any company claiming to be an outdoor company will most definitely be using these words to describe their gear. But 42 – suston

“timeless”? How is that relevant to us outdoor enthusiasts? “It’s extremely relevant,” explains Christiane Dolva Törnberg, Head of Sustainability at Fjällräven. “At least if you care about sustainability. When we develop clothing and equipment at Fjällräven, we don’t only focus on minimal environmental impact from our material choices and production process-

es, we are also deliberately staying clear of design trends that happen to be fashionable at the moment. The definition of fashion is ‘a style that is popular during a particular time.’ In other words, the opposite of longevity,” says Christiane. By longevity, Christiane doesn’t only mean durability in the ordinary sense, but presents us with a new perspective: emotional durability.

Christiane Dolva Törnberg, Head of Sustainability at Fjällräven, in her grandmother’s jacket.

The timeless Greenland Jacket from 1968 was Fjällräven’s first garment and is still in the collection today.

“What good is a garment made with the world’s most durable fabric, if it feels outdated a year after you buy it? The carbon footprint it took to produce it is in no way compensated for by the number of times it was used. It needs emotional durability to be a garment you want to keep and use for a long time, perhaps even pass on to the next generation.”

How to cut impact in half

A recently published study by Mistra, The Swedish Foundation for Strategic Environmental Research, did some serious number crunching regarding the correlation between a garment’s lifecycle and the carbon footprint of its production. Among other things, it confirmed that a design policy with longevity at its core, something that Fjällräven has been applying since the early 1960’s, has a major effect when it comes to the sustainability of a garment. “If you measure the carbon footprint of, say, an average jacket, and state that ok, the average jacket comes with a carbon

footprint of approximately 20kg CO2 eq., you can divide that sum by the number of times that jacket is worn to get a measurement of how that carbon footprint came to good use. According to M istra’s research, the average Swedish person uses an average jacket about 140 times. So that’s its lifecycle. But if that person uses the jacket twice as much, the carbon footprint is almost halved. This confirms the value of what we do at Fjällräven, and why we strive to create products that become long time favorites.”

A long-term investment

Christiane believes that the outdoor industry as a whole has the possibility and the responsibility to educate their users about the complexities and broad scope of the S-word that everyone is so fond of using these days. “There are so many companies, in so many different industries, that are in a hurry to gain competitive advantages by focusing on a message of sustainability. There’s a lot of good that comes from

that and progress has been made, but sustainability needs to be so much more than simply a marketing tool. It needs to be a very real and all-encompassing thing that makes a difference and changes the way we think and live, like starting to regard every product we choose to buy as a long-term investment,” explains Christiane, who continues: “The outdoor industry has a lot of credibility in this area, partly because of our genuine passion for and devotion to nature, but also because the industry is dependent on nature thriving and standing strong. So, instead of competing with the exaggerated rhetoric, we all need to take a really comprehensive and competent approach, and educate ourselves and our users about what makes products truly sustainable.”

ISPO Munich: Hall A2/210 OR Snow Show: 39105-UL fjallraven.com suston – 43

not for those who buy new ALL THE TIME ”Sustainable” is the word of our time. Logically enough along with ”climate anxiety”. But in the contrary to what some say, buying new things all the time, and recycle them when the color is out of fashion, isn’t at all sustainable. Our way of keeping up with Mother Earth is about making products that are really durable – items that doesn't become untrendy but are made to be maintained and repaired, again and again. It comes natural to us, and has always done.

Sustainable for real. www.lundhags.com

INSPIRATION

VOICES OF THE PATHFINDERS Today, it feels like everyone is talking about sustainability. Suston presents four industry pioneers who have been doing this long before people were ready to listen.

suston â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 45

INSPIRATION

THE VIGILANTE Kris Tompkins has combined sharp business acumen, out-of-the-box thinking, and a rebel spirit to conserve over 57,000 square kilometers in Patagonia and Chile over the past quarter century. BY COREY BUHAY PHOTO TOMPKINS CONSERVATION

ike many millionaires, Kris Tompkins has spent the past 27 years buying land. Unlike most millionaires, however, she has given away almost every acre she has bought. Tompkins Conservation is best known for purchasing over 4,000 square kilometers of Chilean land, only to rewild it and gift it to the Chilean government for conservation in 2018. At the time, that kind of private gift was unheard of. Fortunately, Kris was no stranger to rebel environmentalism when she joined Tompkins Conservation in 1993; she got her start at Patagonia where she served as CEO for 20 years, helping turn the then scrappy startup into an icon for both outdoor style and environmental advocacy. Patagonia’s journey started small. In 1985, the brand donated one percent of its net sales to grassroots environmental groups, a move Kris calls one of the most important sustainability steps Patagonia took during her term as CEO. “Helping people protect their own backyards was a start to Patagonia making a difference on a larger scale,” she explains. The success of that program, and the passionate environmentalism of Yvon and Melinda Chouinard, inspired Kris. “I began to understand what was going on in a much broader landscape called the planet, and that was through working for the Chouinards all those years,” she says.

Kris credits her nonprofit’s success to hard work and collaboration. “It’s vital to work with local communities and governments to make sure that they are on board as stakeholders,” she explains. In Chile, locals were initially suspicious of the expats’ motives. So, the Tompkinses hired local biologists and ranchers as land managers, and started working to improve infrastructure in nearby villages. Eventually, locals warmed to the idea, and Tompkins Conservation struck a deal with the Chilean government to match its land donations at a ratio of 9 to 1.

Think big, act now

In 2015, Doug passed away while kayaking with friends. Kris continued working with their projects. Today, she says the achievements of Tompkins Conservation was made possible by Doug’s vision. “He was a person of big ideas which require a certain leap of faith to implement. He always said, ‘Commit, and then figure it out.’” It’s that daring and willingness to adopt creative solutions—like buying land outright—that has allowed the organization to accomplish so much, even with the climate clock ticking, Kris says: “If you care at all about the future, act. Who-ever you are, wherever you live, you have to wake up in the morning and do something for the causes you believe in.”

KRIS TOMPKINS

Occupation: President of Tompkins Conservation, United Nations Patron of Protected Areas Age: 69 Residence: Santa Paula, California More info: tompkins conservation.org

Around the time she retired from Patagonia in 1993, Kris had begun making trips with her husband Doug Tompkins, co-founder of The North Face, to southern Chile. They fell in love with the area’s raw, untouched landscapes. She and Doug moved there, and immediately set to work buying land to protect it from ranching and logging. To date, Tompkins Conservation has helped conserve over 57,000 square kilometers – an area about the size of Croatia.

PHOTO: TOMPKINS CONSERVATION

Companions in conservation

Together with her husband Doug, Kris Tompkins fell in love with the rough, southern parts of South America.

INSPIRATION

THE STORYTELLER If you want to sell to environmental sceptics, you have to have both a good product and know how to talk about it. Nick Brown has made a career of doing exactly that. BY COREY BUHAY PHOTO STÉPHANE ROBIN

N NICK BROWN

Occupation: Founder and Owner of Nikwax Age: 65 Residence: Ticehurst, England, UK More info: nikwax.com

Years of trekking gave Nick Brown many opportunities to test the company’s products.

ikwax founder Nick Brown has always been a smooth talker. But he admits that in the beginning, he wasn’t necessarily putting that gift to use for the environment. “To be honest, the first sustainability aspect on my mind was sustaining myself,” he laughs. Nick had always been interested in science, but when he went to university he ultimately chose a degree in social anthropology. “When I graduated, I was very poor and very unemployable,” he says. Fortunately, he possessed a secret recipe for a waterproof boot wax, which he’d perfected during years of trekking through the English countryside. When an outdoor shop asked 22-year-old Nick to make them some in 1977, Nikwax was born. Within a few years, Nikwax’s product line had expanded to include sprayable waterproofing for apparel. Nick, who’d always considered himself an environmentalist, immediately chose to use plastic spray bottles in lieu of CFC-spewing aerosol cannisters. “But I knew if we could use water-based solvents, consumers would be able to put the garment in a washing machine. That would mean no sprayer at all, so less packaging and a more effective application.” This would mean a huge shift for Nikwax’s consumer base, but if anyone could get them on board, it was Nick.

“Quite early on, I realized that communicating to our consumers was really important, and we became quite good at that,” Nick explains.

Making chemistry understandable

He was able to combine his extensive scientific literacy—gained from regularly reading science magazines “cover-to-cover”—with his gift of gab to successfully communicate his environmental values to Nikwax customers. That talent has been crucial to the brand’s success. “At the end of it, most Nikwax products are white liquids, and the consumer can’t see the huge amount of work and testing that’s gone into producing those white liquids. If you’re not prepared to tell the story of it to your consumers, you’re not going to get very far,” Nick says. In the end, consumers reacted positively to the new wash-in waterproofing. And retailers, initially hesitant to adopt the new product, relented after noticing the increased demand that Nick had helped cultivate. The campaign was a success, but stories about CEOs pushing hard to make environmentallyfriendly products work are far from the norm. Nick speculates that, for many brands, it’s because the unspoken goal is more about gaining positive PR than saving the planet. The antidote? Nick recommends bringing corporate social responsibility personnel and scientific advisors up to the director level, ensuring the C-suite remains educated about what matters. Nick also urges companies to take a leap with new products, as Nikwax did with its wash-in waterproofing in the 1980s. “Even now, what’s driving consumers isn’t the environmental thing. It’s product performance,” Nick says. To do good, brands have to make a product that’s both environmentally friendly, and better than anything else out there. “If you want to make a change, you have to have some pain in the beginning,” Nick says. “It requires commitment.”

INSPIRATION

THE GARDENER Many say that the suppliers of hard goods need to step up when it comes to sustainability. But Jake Lah could claim that his company DAC started doing this over 30 years ago, in South Korea. BY GABRIEL ARTHUR PHOTO STÉPHANE ROBIN

“I

just wanted to protect my people and create a more green atmosphere for them.” If you ask Jake Lah, CEO and founder, this is the down-to-earth reason why DAC today is one of the pioneering companies within the hard goods segment of the outdoor industry. The Korean manufacturer of aluminum tubes has around 130 employees and is providing brands like Vaude, Hilleberg and Marmot with poles for their tents. The head office and factory are still based in Incheon, South Korea, where Jake started DAC in 1988. “Like at most industrial sites, the surroundings were all grey, with no nature in sight. To start with, I made a small garden outside the factory and planted five apple trees. At the beginning, the few employees I had didn’t understand why. But they soon began to appreciate it.” More trees and flowers were planted. But Jake soon realized that the interiors of the factory also needed to become much better, if his people, as he calls the company employees, would feel good at work. “In the early nineties, making aluminum poles was a dirty process,” Jake recalls. The factory floor was greasy with oil that was dripping from pipes, and yellowish fumes rose from the boiling tanks used to make the aluminum surface bright. Jake was still fighting to make the company profitable, and his employees volunteered to help making their workspace cleaner. “They were fantastic. We were searching for every source of leakage of fluids and dirt. After three years, it was so clean that we could have lunch together on the factory floor.” The next project took eight years: to protect the workforce from the risk of toxic air. At the time, there were no better methods available. So Jake and his team set out to invent their own processes. After a long period of trial and error, DAC found a way to eliminate nitric acid and phosphoric acid from their anodizing process. Also, the cleaning solutions before the heat treatment

were radically improved. “When the air inside our factory got so much better, it was such a relief,” says Jake.

Before their time

This methodical way of cleaning up every step of the production led to DAC becoming a stateof-the-art business around fifteen years ago with respect to sustainability in its segment. But the problem was that hardly anyone outside the company was interested. Compared to other industries, most outdoor companies were rather late to start working systematically with their supply chains. And when they started, the focus was – and still is – mainly on textile production. “Some of our clients like REI, Hilleberg and Vaude, really appreciated what we were doing. But we could for instance not be certified by Bluesign, since they were only looking at chemical management in the textile industry.” And perhaps Jake’s rather humble way of communicating is another reason that DAC’s efforts still today are not so well known. “We concentrate on our work instead of going out and shout about it.” When DAC soon opens another manufacturing site in Vietman, they will bring this philosophy with them. The water coming out of the factory’s sewage system will be drinkable and trees, plants and flowers will surround all buildings.

JAKE LAH

Occupation: CEO and Founder of DAC. Age: 65 Residence: Incheon, South Korea More info: dacpole.com

Jake Lah and fellow students at the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor, USA.

INSPIRATION

THE STRATEGIST From calling up mill owners to explain sustainability, to piloting global strategy for the Textile Exchange, Karla Magruder has spent over 30 years shaping the textile industry into a force for good. BY COREY BUHAY PHOTO FABRIKOLOGY

T KARLA MAGRUDER Occupation: Textile consultant, founder of Fabrikology International, Textile Exchange board member Age: 60 Residence: Campbell Hall, New York, USA, and Milan, Italy More info: Fabrikology.com

Karla Magruder visiting silk and garment factories in the Liaoning province in China back in the days.

extiles and apparel make up $3 trillion in global business. Some see the industry as a huge source of global greenhouse gas emissions, chemical pollution and waste. Karla Magruder sees it as an opportunity. “Raw material choices have significant environmental impacts,” Karla explains. That’s why convincing companies to choose the right ones can make a big difference. According to one study, for example, simply swapping virgin polyester for recycled polyester in manufacturing uses nearly two-thirds less energy and emits a third less carbon dioxide. With that in mind, Karla is doing her best to pilot the textile industry juggernaut toward sustainability. But maintaining her heading hasn’t always been easy. In the late 1990s, Karla was almost a decade into a promising career as a textiles sales manager when she grew seriously ill. Worried she might never get another chance, she left her U.S. job to move to Italy, something she’d always wanted to do. She was quickly blown away by how progressive the Italians were. “They were already charging for bags at the grocery store, and you had to recycle everything or you were fined,” Karla recalls. In 2003, Karla founded the renewable textile consulting company Fabrikology International—

finding herself a little fish in a big, skeptical sea. During early conversations with brands, retailers, and mills, Karla recalls needing to define sustainability with them. “It wasn’t even on people’s radar,” she says.

Fact-based consultancy

Fabrikology’s early days involved a lot of educating. Karla found the most effective strategy was simply to present the science and to have enough facts and data to back up every claim she made. Even now, she says sharing articles or highlighting what others in the industry are doing is the best way to change someone’s mind about the importance of sustainability. “You can’t unlearn something once you learn it. Knowledge has an effect on people, even if it takes time.” Her patient approach worked. The word of Fabrikology’s services began to spread, and clients started to trickle in. The only thing she wishes she’d done differently? “When you’re just starting out, you tend to soften things. I wish we’d stuck to our beliefs and been more bold, taking a firmer stance on what needed to be done,” she says. “I’ve also learned that one of the best things you can do is to create your own projects.” Today, Karla runs Fabrikology, consults regularly, speaks at trade shows and event panels, and guides global textile industry strategy as a board member of the Textile Exchange. She’s pushing sustainability from the top down and the bottom up, but she’s always the first to say that it’s not enough. Right now, Karla believes that companies are interested in the ROI of sustainability, but don’t look much further. They fail to expand their view to the long-term health of their partners, communities and the planet. “I don’t think we have a business model today that will allow the changes we need,” she says, and continues: “But it is coming. We just don’t know what it looks like yet.”

Ahead of its Time

Foreseeing the turn of the tide, Bluesign has been developing solutions to environmental and social problems in the supply chain 20 years before the industry even knew they had them.

lot has happened in the last 20 years. The last Volkswagen Beetle rolled through production. Redbull dropped a man from the stratosphere. Steve Jobs unveiled the first iPod, followed by the iPhone. Facebook launched its social platform. The last 20 years were witness to technologies that changed communication and information sharing as we know it today. However, there is a general consensus that not enough has happened to move the textile and fashion industry into the environmentally and socially 54 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; suston

responsible position that has increasingly been demanded for by consumers. The new trending discussion topic is radical transparency. The current industry demands are pushing players to implement sustainability policy reaching throughout their supply chain, while increasing traceability, transparency, and accountability. Brands especially find themselves under pressure to provide more information about their products and the product manufacturing process. Moreover, certification institutions are finding they have to move quickly to improve the

systems they have in place to meet the industry needs in order to provide this increased transparency.

Transparency is a competitive edge

A 2019 report produced by Suston Magazine demonstrated that no retailer ranked itself an expert in materials sustainability. How can brands then be expected to develop and implement the sustainability initiatives they are promising consumers? The challenges that the industry is currently facing are multifaceted: Fast-fashion has taken over the industry by storm

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: PRIMALOFT

Relentlessly Responsible PrimaLoft is fully committed to sustainability in every aspect of its business. The brand is pushing the limits of material science forward, resulting in the perfect balance between performance and responsibility.

rimaLoft’s mission to be Relentlessly Responsible™ has resulted in exciting breakthrough innovations within the past few years. In fall 2018 PrimaLoft® Bio™, the world’s first biodegradable*, 100% recycled synthetic insulation and fabric, was launched. The intention of this unique technology is to address the eventual end of life of a garment in an impactful way, while finding a solution for the industry-wide microplastics issue. PrimaLoft Bio fibers are made from 100% post-consumer recycled material and break down when exposed to specific environments – such as a landfill or the ocean. The complete biodegradation process leaves behind only natural elements: water, methane, carbon dioxide, biomass and humus - a common component of potting soil. Independent third-party laboratory tests also confirmed that the process leaves behind no harmful substances and does not inhibit plant growth. PrimaLoft Bio fibers will only biodegrade when exposed to the microbes in landfills or ocean water. Thus, the material remains highly durable throughout its usable life cycle in a garment. Moreover, PrimaLoft Bio fibers are proven to be renewable for use in a circular economy. Beginning in fall 2020 products using PrimaLoft Bio will be available from various brands such as Jack Wolfskin, Maloja, Norrøna, Reusch and many more.

Carbon emissions

Recently, another industry-changing innovation was presented. PrimaLoft P.U.R.E.™ is a proprietary manufacturing technique that reduces carbon emissions by nearly 50%. This new standard in manufacturing technology allows the use of air, instead of heat from an oven, to produce PrimaLoft insulation - a brilliant shift in the process, that will make a huge difference in the environment. The initial insulation product being produced with P.U.R.E. manufacturing technology uses 100% post-consumer recycled material and has all the insulating and performance benefits of existing PrimaLoft Gold Insulation. Converting the yearly production of PrimaLoft Gold Insulation to P.U.R.E. manufacturing results in: 48% reduction of carbon dioxide emissions**, 348,111 lbs of carbon dioxide reduction** and 438,617 miles of carbon dioxide savings, which is which is equivalent to driving around the earth 17.6 times**. In the fall of 2020, Patagonia will become the first brand partner to incorporate insulation that is produced with the PrimaLoft P.U.R.E. manufacturing technology.

communities and use it to manufacture high-performance insulation products. PrimaLoft is the first insulation provider in the textile industry to partner with Parley to develop products made from marine plastic waste. PrimaLoft engineers have met the challenge of developing a s pecial method, one that allows for marine plastics to produce insulation products that meet the company’s high-performance standards. Together with long-standing partner Adidas, PrimaLoft will join forces in the strategic development of high-performance, sustainability-conscious products. One key focus in this partnership will be the introduction of Adidas apparel that features PrimaLoft insulation made with Parley Ocean Plastic™. This collective collaboration between Prima Loft, Parley and Adidas is a win for each brand, as well as the environment. * 93.8% biodegradation in 586 days under ASTM D5511 conditions (landfill environment); 65.5% biodegradation in 639 days under ASTM D6691 conditions (marine/ocean environment). The stated rate and extent of degradation do not mean that the product will continue to degrade. ** Calculations based on single-year production of 40100gsm PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation. Calculations verified by independent third-party, SGS North America, Inc

Partnership for the oceans

Early fall 2019, PrimaLoft announced a strategic partnership with Parley for the Oceans and Adidas, that will take plastic intercepted from beaches and coastal

ISPO Munich: A4/306 OR Snow Show: 56004-UL primaloft.com suston – 57

CLIMATE ACTION

Carbon Collaborations The temperature keeps rising. But luckily, so does the pressure to do something about it. Within the outdoor industry, companies and organizations have started to set bolder emissions goals – together. Today, there are a number of industry initiatives with clear targets and commitments. Suston presents three ongoing collaborations and asks companies why they have joined in these efforts.

E BUSINESS HOW MUCH OF TH ? ED UD CL IN IS ions

nhouse gas emiss A company’s gree o three “scopes.” can be divided int

SCOPE 1 emissions are direct emissions from sources the company owns or controls. These include burning fossil fuels from stationary sources used for heating or from vehicles you own or operate. For many companies in the outdoor industry, this is the easy part.

SCOPE 2 emissions are indirect emissions from the generation of purchased energy. If your company hasn’t switched to buying energy exclusively from renewable sources – just do it. But in a digitalized world, some parts can be trickier. What energy sources are the servers you use for your e-commerce running on? And if you use cloud services like Dropbox, should their emissions also count?

SCOPE 3 emissions are all indirect emissions (not included in scope 2) that occur in the value chain of the reporting company including both upstream and downstream emissions. These emissions are tricky – both to measure and to reduce. At the same time, scope 3 is where industry collaborations can be most useful and make the biggest difference.

CLIMATE ACTION

CLIMATE NEUTRAL

Klean’s Klimate Ally Once a company decides to take responsibility for its carbon footprint, the first step is determining how to best do so. Klean Kanteen has turned to Climate Neutral to help take the guesswork out of their climate strategy. Can you explain the logic from Klean Kanteen’s perspective in joining the Climate Neutral initiative?

“Klean Kanteen has been measuring greenhouse gas emissions related to its business operations for several years. We are at a place where we’re confident in our ability to gather this information regularly and robustly enough to plan for and take action to reduce emissions.” “Climate Neutral happened to emerge as we were working out how to implement an internal carbon tax and other elements of reduction strategy. We saw commitment to Climate Neutral as a way to solidify that concept of an internal carbon tax; we’re going to pay for all the emissions we don’t find a way to reduce. That’s a significant cost, and a very tangible motivation to get after reductions. And frankly, there is a sense that we need to do something NOW given the climate emergency we’re facing. This was the primary driving motivator behind signing Klean up for Climate Neutral.”

Can you expand on how this process works?

“Klean’s measurement follows greenhouse gas accounting methods of the Greenhouse Gas Protocol. We started by identifying our emissions sources within the three scopes defined by the GHG Protocol.” “Once we were comfortable with the approach for measuring Scopes 1 and 2, we shifted focus to the much larger Scope 3. We practiced measuring these for a couple years to gain confidence with our process. We felt if we didn’t have confidence in our measurement and reporting capability, we would have less confidence choosing where to

CLIMATE NEUTRAL

Carbon pricing made cheap and easy? That’s what independent nonprofit Climate Neutral offers with their four-step certification process. By measuring carbon usage, providing strategies for immediate offsetting as well as long-term reduction, their certification empowers customers to choose brands that are carbon accountable. climateneutral.org

DANIELLE CRESSWELL

Sr. Sustainability Manager, Klean Kanteen

reduce and the appropriate magnitude for goals.” “The Climate Neutral process is very similar to any year-end accounting cycle. Right now, end of year data is being gathered to quantify greenhouse gas emissions from all sources for the 2019 calendar year. That data will be reviewed and reported by certifying brands to Climate Neutral in the Jan-March 2020 timeframe along with emissions reduction plans. Once approved, brands will purchase qualifying offsets and cross the finish line for 2019. Klean’s first offsets purchase will come in 1Q2020. This will become an annual process, with ongoing reduction planning and analysis and implementation in between reporting and certification – the in between activities is where the good stuff happens.”

How does Klean Kanteen determine its emissions reductions goals? PARTICIPATING OUTDOOR COMPANIES

Biolite, Icebug, Klean Kanteen and Peak Design.

13,974 tons C02 is the total lifetime offsets purchased by BioLite, a co-founder of Climate Neutral.

“Our plan is to establish an overall emissions reduction goal that aligns with the Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTI). This is a framework for setting emissions reduction goals that are in line with a target of keeping global average temperature increase well below 2 degrees C.” “Once we have an approved, science-based emissions target, we can rally our organization around strategy that aligns with that level of emissions reduction over the next 10 years. It’s exciting, really, to think we can remove ambiguity around what is a meaningful reduction. It helps transition our focus from trying to quantify the problem, or trying to quantify the goal, and moving us to quantifying the value of potential solutions, picking the winners, and making reductions a reality.”

“Icebug is one of the Climate Neutral committed brands, with clear goals on how to reduce emissions. For instance we have committed to reach 50% renewable energy in Tier 1 no later than 2022.” David Ekelund, CEO Icebug

CLIMATE ACTION

SCIENCE BASED TARGETS INITIATIVE

VF Sets Clear Targets VF Corp – parent company to such outdoor brands as The North Face and Icebreaker – turned to the ScienceBased Targets Initiative (SBTI) to ensure their climate goals are in line with the Paris Agreement. VF states that its new science-based targets are among the most ambitious in the industry – can you expand on this, and where will the key reductions take place?

“We are among the first in our industry to have set a 1.5-degree target for Scope 1 and 2 emissions and a well-below 2-degree target for Scope 3 emissions, in alignment with the latest SBTI guidance for our sector which was just released in June 2019.” “Through the process of developing our science-based targets, we discovered that about 1% of our total emissions can be attributed to our owned operations, while over 50% can be directly related to the sourcing and production of materials and products. This gave us a great view of where to start in terms of prioritizing our CO2 impact reduction efforts.”

What’s the value in this and similar initiatives from an industry perspective?

“Companies have a significant role to play in driving down global GHG emissions. The purpose of the Science-Based Targets Initiative is to provide a consistent methodology within and across industries for companies to set meaningful targets, rooted in science, toward the well below 2 degrees C or 1.5 degrees C thresholds that will be required to prevent severe ecological and humanitarian crises.” “As a purpose-driven company, and one of the largest apparel and footwear companies globally, we believe we have an opportunity to use our scale to effect change – and to demonstrate that these activities can enhance, not detract from, business success. We hope that our commitments inspire other companies to follow suit, and that

SCIENCE BASED TARGETS INITIATIVE

The science is clear: we must limit the global rise in temperature to well below 2 degrees Celsius above pre-industrial levels. The Science Based Target Initiative helps over 700 companies do just that, providing individualized and science-backed pathways to greenhouse gas reductions. sciencebasedtargets.org

60 – suston

they signal to NGO’s, government, investors, and other stakeholders that we are serious about leading the charge into a new vision of what business leadership can be.”

VF is also a signatory to other climate initiatives. How do you choose and prioritize these?

BETH JENSEN

Director, Sustainable Materials + Products VF Corporation

PARTICIPATING OUTDOOR COMPANIES

Lenzing, Norrøna, Vaude and VF Corp.

55% absolute reduction in GHGs by 2030 is VF Corp’s goal.

“We get approached to sign on to so many different initiatives – we definitely have to prioritize. This typically involves robust discussion among all of the relevant internal subject matter experts, which includes asking ourselves questions like ‘how does participation in this initiative provide value to our business?’ and, ‘are we already signed on to an initiative that provides the same or similar value?’”

Critics note it’s easy for businesses to exit such voluntary coalitions, putting into question their long-term efficacy. Would you agree or disagree?

“I actually disagree with the statement that it’s easy for businesses to exit these types of commitments. In my opinion, businesses do not take these types of commitments lightly – neither joining nor dissolving them. I don’t think companies would sign on unless they are truly committed to the change.” “I have friends and colleagues in various organizations and sustainability leadership positions across the outdoor and fashion industries, and our collective passion and commitment to the fight against climate change is what gives me hope that we can actually succeed in achieving our targets and using the power of business to play a significant role.”

“We have set ourselves the goal of climate neutral manufacturing for all of our products. In order to verifiably achieve this, we are working with SBT to gradually reduce our CO2 emissions in the global supply chain.” Antje von Dewitz, CEO, Vaude.

CLIMATE ACTION

THE STICA NETWORK

Nordic Outdoor and Fashion Together Over 90 brands in the outdoor, fashion and sports industries have now signed The UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action. The STICA Network will ensure that Scandinavian brands reach the same goals. Peak Performance was one of the first companies to sign the UN’s charter and join STICA. Now it has been one year since its launch – what have you accomplished over the past year?

“We are roughly 10 Scandinavian outdoor brands such as Peak Performance, Fjällräven, and Bergans as well as approximately 35 representatives from Scandinavian fashion companies. STICA, which stands for the Swedish Textile Initiative for Climate Action, was initiated by the consulting company Sustainable Fashion Academy, together with H&M, KappAhl and us, Peak Performance. We began by putting together a steering committee with six people who meet every week. We put together an overarching ‘industry roadmap and action plan’ that consists of three steps. In short, the first step concerns training, the second step concerns getting all member companies started with measuring and reporting their emissions within Scope 1, 2 and 3. Then comes the big step: Starting to reduce emissions.” “During the first year – the training phase – four workshops were held and Scope 1 and 2 were measured. Not only did we learn more about emissions in the various scopes, but we also discussed communication. For example, when can a company rightfully call itself climate neutral? Is it sufficient to mitigate your emissions with carbon offsets or is this just a type of ‘greenwashing’?”

ÅSA ANDERSON

Sustainability Manager, Peak Performance

PARTICIPATING OUTDOOR COMPANIES

Bergans of Norway, Craft, Didriksons, Fjällräven, Haglöfs, Lundhags, Norrøna and Peak Performance.

What will Peak Performance be working on in 2020?

“In 2020, we will be focusing on measuring and reporting our emissions in Scope 3. Our network contains everything from H&M with

THE STICA NETWORK

Around 45 Scandinavian companies are members of the Swedish Textile Initiative for Climate Action (STICA) network. The network has the same overarching goals as the United Nations Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action: Member companies commit to reducing their emissions by at least 30% by 2030 and to be climate-neutral by 2050. sustainablefashionacademy.org/stica

2030 By this year, all members commit to have reduced their emissions by at least 30%.

approximately 200 employees who are working on sustainability, to smaller companies who don’t even have a director of sustainability. So it’s clear that some of us have different resources and that some will have more to do than others. But by working together, we can find a clear path forward, utilize the same methods and definitions and learn from each other.” “At Peak Performance, we had already begun measuring Scope 1 and 2 and had been monitoring Scope 3 thanks to the European Clothing Action Plan (ECAP) project.”

After 2020, the STICA members will have nine years to reduce emissions by at least 30% in order to live up to your commitment – are you going to succeed?

“It’s within Scope 3 that we’ll have our greatest impact, and that’s where we should be looking at all of the links in our supply chain – tier 1, 2, 3 and 4. In the outdoor industry, we have the advantage of often having a close working relationship with our material suppliers. In addition, many of us have the same suppliers. If – as a group – we can tell our suppliers that we need to reduce our total climate impact and that we need their support, then this will create synergy effects. Other effects like this can include procuring consulting help together.” “Within the STICA network, we have also committed to follow the Science Based Targets, and if they raise their goals and ambitions, we must follow suit.” “One advantage with a public commitment is that owners and management stand behind the goals. So the question isn’t whether we will succeed but rather how.”

“We’ve started to map our footprint, and will move forward working with Scope 3 from 2020 on. Based on the results, we will set targets and continue collaborating within STICA.” Christoph Centmayer, Sustainability Manager, Bergans of Norway suston – 61

PARTNER: TEXTILE EXCHANGE SPONSORED CONTENT

Textile Exchange Team Children and Friends during Climate Strike 2019.

Driving Force for Urgent Climate Action As time runs out on meeting the 1.5°C climate target, the Textile Exchange’s newly announced 2030 Strategy: Climate+ aims to ratchet up joint industry action.

ne thing all people have in common is that we come into contact with various textiles every single day, from the clothing we wear to the furnishings in our homes. Can you imagine how much climate impact from fiber and material production could be reduced if even a fraction of each item was produced in a more sustainable way? That is what Textile Exchange set out to do when we announced our new 2030 Strategy: Climate+ (pronounced Climate-Plus) during its 2019 Textile Sustainability Conference. Under the Climate+ strategic direction, Textile Exchange will be the driving force for urgent climate action with a goal of 35-45% 62 – suston

reduced CO2 emissions from textile fiber and material production by 2030. Climate science, including the UN IPCC report from October 2018 titled “Global Warming of 1.5°C…,” makes it clear that we have a limited time window in which to act and if we do not act soon, we lock in certain climate impacts that will negatively impact a multitude of areas. Textile Exchange recognizes that if we don’t successfully combat climate change, we may lose the opportunity to address these impact areas. For years, Textile Exchange has promoted practices, standards, and resources that benefit the climate. Adopting the Climate+ Strategy is a way to bring the priority of climate, biodiversity, and

carbon to the heart of our work with preferred fibers and materials. The “+” in Climate+ allows Textile Exchange to prioritize climate while continuing to address other impact areas that are interconnected with climate in most situations (e.g. water, biodiversity, forests, soil and animal welfare). The “+” is also an acknowledgement that Textile Exchange cannot achieve this new 2030 goal of 35-45% reduction in CO2 emissions from preferred fiber and material production on its own. Achieving the 2030 Strategy: Climate+ goal will require strong partnerships to accelerate adoption of existing tools as well as enable disruptive innovation around new business models and zero carbon materials. Join us in achieving this goal! LEARN MORE: climateplus@textileexchange.org textileexchange.org

ENVIRONMENT

“ THINK GLOBAL, SKI LOCAL” Ski legend Greg Hill sold his big pickup, quit his job as a heliskiing guide and cut out nearly all his flights. Today, he is one of the outdoor world’s leading advocates for sustainable ski adventures. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON

64 – suston

CLIMATE ACTION

t’s shortly after seven o’clock in the morning and the line is already long inside La Baguette, one of several cozy cafés in Revelstoke, British Columbia – among Canada’s most renowned off-piste paradises. It is full of skiers in worn shell garments and holding their own coffee mugs in hand. Some mountain guides have arranged meetings with their guests and are planning the day’s tours. A couple of lumberjacks have also found their way here. When Greg Hill steps through the door, half of the room turns to look at the tall, dark-haired man with bright eyes. He radiates energy despite the early hour and greets people to his left and right. Not only is he a world-famous skier, mountain climber and ski guide – he is also a local hero. For the next couple of days, we’ll have the pleasure of doing summit tours together and talking about sustainability in the world of skiing. “The electric taxi is here, let’s go skiing,” he says with a grin. A little while later we’re sitting in Greg’s small white electric car – a Chevrolet Bolt – with hot coffee in our thermoses while he navigates out of town and onto the highway in virtual silence. We are on our way to Rogers Pass, one of the snowiest places in Canada and with a spectacular location in the mountains between Revelstoke and Golden. “It’s a 70-kilometer drive up there. No problem for this ride! Now that it’s winter – with the roof rack on, the heat turned up and winter tires on – the range is still 250 to 300 kilometers, so we have a little margin,” explains Greg as he takes a sip of coffee. Just over an hour later, we roll into the parking lot at the Rogers Pass Discovery Centre. Although it is less snow than usual, the snowbanks are enormous where we park – right next to a charging station. “Back when I sold my pickup and leased this car two years ago, there were hardly any charging stations in British Columbia or even in the United States. So, I was forced to plan every trip in detail so that it would work. Things are much better now,” he says. Occupation: Skier We slip on our ski skins and glide away along a stream surrounded by tall snow-covered fir trees. After a while, we come to an opening where we suston – 65

CLIMATE ACTION

Why waste time at the fuel pump, when you can have your car fully-charged by the time you return from an awesome day in the backcountry?

66 – suston

can see some of the mighty peaks that surround the passage. The soft morning light shines on the mountains and Greg points out the peak that we are heading towards. We jog along in the shade a little while and I mimic what my tour companion is doing as he zigzags efficiently up through the steep forest, learning from how little energy he is expending. We have close to 4,500 feet (1,400 meters) to climb today so we are in no position to dawdle up on the mountainside. Greg Hill left his hometown of Quebec City when he was young and he traveled west toward the Rocky Mountains, where he spent a few years alternating between planting trees and skiing – in other words, a classic Canadian ski bum. He settled in Revelstoke nearly 20 years ago. Back then, there wasn’t even a real ski area in the town, but he had heard of Rogers Pass – about the enormous amounts of snow and the fact that there were hardly any people living in the mountains. It sounded a lot better than Whistler where he had lived before, and the lack of long lifts could be compensated for with ski skins. In the years that followed, he trained as a mountain guide and began to make a name for himself in the skiing community in North America – above all in the area of ski mountaineering. With a lot of enthusiasm, extensive knowledge

and a really good physique, he won ski mountaineering competitions, conducted multi-day trips in the mountains in record times and also checked off a number of first downhill runs. It didn’t take long until he was offered sponsorship contracts from several industry giants and soon, he was able to call himself a professional skier. In 2010, Greg set the world record for ski mountaineering as he climbed and skied two million feet (610,000 meters) in one calendar year. The record put Greg in the spotlight, and the affable Canadian soon became an important spokesperson for summit tours and ski mountaineering in the media. He continued with his unique projects and he became known in the skiing community as the man who conquered superhuman feats in record times. In retrospect, he describes the pursuit of endurance records as an obsession. How many meters could he climb in one day? One month? One year? Greg Hill was the skier who pushed those boundaries to to entirely new levels. From the individual to the collective Even though he continues to spend more days on his skis than most people, in recent years, Greg has shifted his focus completely: From individual achievements to a more collective mindset where the environment takes priority. Climate-related

crises, such as forest fires and hurricanes, had started to cause him to question the environmental impact of his air and car trips. In April 2012, he cycled to all the peaks he had previously skied up and down, just to try it out. During the entire month, he didn’t use any fossil fuels at all. But the drawback was that none of his friends wanted to come along on the tours; it seemed the days were simply too tough for his adventure buddies. He really wasn’t a model citizen himself and he’d be the first to point that out. He drove a turbocharged Ford F350 pickup truck with a diesel engine – one of the largest and least fuel-efficient vehicles you can find on the market. In addition, he often had his heavy snowmobile in the bed of the truck. He traveled all over the world and sometimes worked as a heliskiing guide. He ate a lot of meat and went through a very high amount of outdoor gear every year. “When I look back at what I did earlier, I feel that it was hypocrisy – being an outdoor enthusiast that loves destroying what he loves,” says Greg as we take a brief standing drink break. A new lifestyle But back then, electric cars were not a simple alternative. The few models that were available in North America at the time had a very short range

and were extremely expensive. So he waited until a more affordable alternative became available – particularly one that also had a range of at least 200 kilometers. In December 2016, he decided to make a serious commitment towards sustainable adventures. He started by selling his pickup truck and snowmobile. He then leased a small electric car, quit guiding heliskiing trips and reduced his air travel a fair amount. “In the past, I crisscrossed the globe traveling all over for expeditions, film projects, trade shows and vacation trips. Nowadays, I only fly when the sponsors really want me to attend something as well as for funerals and weddings that are far away,” says Greg. Since then, he has been looking for novel ways to carry out his adventures while having the lowest possible impact on the climate. His main project these days is something he calls #electricbikeadventures. Simply put, it’s about climbing a hundred mountain summits without using fossil fuel. Getting to the mountains must take place either by electric car or electric bike; however, not with an electric scooter. He walks on foot until he can put on his ski skins or he just starts skiing directly from the parking lot like he did today. “The big difference compared to how things

Greg Hill’s ski career was built on pushing the boundaries of possibility. Now he’s looking to push the limits of low impact adventures.

suston – 67

CLIMATE ACTION

were before is that I don’t have to keep up with this project over a specific period of time. And I’m not going to stop once I reach a hundred summits. This has become a lifestyle that I will continue to advocate for and live according to,” says Greg, who does most of his tours in British Columbia but also in Wyoming, California, Washington and Oregon south of the border. Sustainable adventures Three hours later, we have passed through the forest, managed to stop for a much-needed coffee break and started approaching Little Sifton, 9,000 feet (2,743 meters) above sea level. It is a popular summit tour, but today we are alone up here in the beautiful, wild landscape. The wind has created large, undulating snow formations and some of them are forming enormous shadows in the otherwise snow-white terrain. We follow a plateau that heads towards the summit until Greg steers over more towards the east side where he sees a better line. It’s impressive and inspiring to see how he is constantly reading the terrain and snow in order to choose the smartest and safest route further up the mountain. The last 150 meters of climbing towards the top are steep and our ski skins begin slipping on some sections. I can feel every meter we climb in my legs, but I continue to soldier on knowing that we’re going to get to ski downhill soon. At this altitude, the snow has remained cold and even though it hasn’t snowed for a while, it is surprisingly pristine. “All my previous goals in my career have been about finding out what is physically possible. In some ways, this is similar, but I do it to show that sustainable adventures are possible. And to spread knowledge about this and to be a good role model in the skiing industry.”

GREG HILL

Profession: ACMG Ski Guide Born: 1975 Residence: Revelstoke, B.C., Canada. More information: electricadventures.ca

68 – suston

Impact halved When we look out over Rogers Pass – a dream area for anyone who loves summit tours – it is easy to understand the logic behind Greg’s story. The electric adventures also became a natural reason for changing his personal life. “It has inspired me and made me into a much better person. My own environmental impact is now half of what it was before, which feels really good. My entire family are ‘weekday vegetarians’ as we call it. We eat vegetarian food during the weekdays, but on weekends we eat meat if it’s produced locally and organically.” But the fact that Greg has changed his life has also resulted in a fair share of complications. Through the choices he’s making now, for exam-

ple, he is excluded from a number of projects to exotic ski destinations and there is a limit to how long he can keep making trips to the mountains near his home. Occasionally, he also admits he has doubts about whether anything we humans do will actually matter in the end. “But then I see positive effects of what I myself am doing and quite often that inspires others. We all need to make an effort, and if you can change something then others in your sphere of influence can follow. Together we can all contribute to a greater change.” Redefining the dream Almost fifteen meters of snow fall each year in Revelstoke. It is a remote mountain town where the railroad and forestry industries are still the largest employers, yet tourism and infrastructure are growing at a rapid pace. The influence of younger, adventurous people is clearly visible. Everyone wants to live the Canadian dream where a big pickup truck has its natural place. “But you can have a smaller electric car here too. If I can show this and keep doing my adventures without a big pickup truck, then hopefully I can inspire others to make the same choice.” With a few exceptions, the companies that manufacture skis have not switched to particularly sustainable production. According to Greg, the clothing brands are taking a greater responsibility for reducing their impact. “More and more companies are following and taking on more responsibility. It’s wonderful to see,” says Greg, who himself influenced his sponsor Arc’Teryx to think more on sustainability. The sun has set as we drop into the east side of Little Sifton. Greg skis fast, energy-efficiently and smart in the pristine, boot-deep powder. He exudes a natural feeling of security in this wild and relatively dangerous environment. Big turns down these enormous slopes, surrounded by sharp mountain peaks. He doesn’t appear to feel any of the lactic acid that is beginning to creep up my thighs. It starts getting dark when we come down to the parking lot. Greg’s little white electric car is one of the few that remain in the parking lot. We take our skis off, exchange some high-fives and enjoy the tranquility. A long, wonderful day in the mountains has come to an end and Greg takes the charger off the car. “Now the battery was fully charged while we went on a cozy ski trip and got to ride powder – isn’t that brilliant?” he says as we silently head homeward towards Revelstoke.

ENVIRONMENT

Rogers Pass is one of Canada’s snowiest places and Greg Hill’s home turf. suston – 69

PARTNER: SYMPATEX SPONSORED CONTENT

Hollywood Exhumes the True PTFE Story A growing resistance to “everlasting chemicals” is greatly increasing the risk of a “Greta effect” when it comes to PFAS.

any of us in the industry were probably hoping that with the world’s largest supplier of PTFE membranes agreeing to a phase-out plan with Greenpeace in early 2017, the issue of PFCs would be buried once and for all. Indeed, over the last three years it’s been quiet when it comes to the “everlasting chemical” as it’s called. PFCs are being increasingly replaced by non-fluorine alternatives in DWR treatments used in outdoor clothing. That only leaves

70 – suston

workwear clothing, where it appears that oil-resistant fabrics continue to be more important than the ecological heritage of our industry. And now, just in time for ISPO 2020, Hollywood has exhumed this topic: Filming the story of Rob Bilott, a lawyer who exposed the decades-long coverup of the environmental and health side-effects of PTFE production, a problem that to date has been obscured by the DWR discussion. Dark Waters (in American theaters since November

2019 and in European theaters beginning in February 2020), tells the true story of a corporate lawyer who – after observing decades of unscrupulous conduct by manufacturers of this once highly-promising material – decides to switch allegiances and becomes a bitter enemy of the industry.

GenX PFC legislation lagging

Despite the fact that the risks of PFC chemicals for humans was well-known internally as far back as the 80s, for

decades manufacturers around the world discharged the production waste into the environment or it ended up on landfills. It wasn’t until just the last ten years that massive pressure led PTFE manufacturers to systematically replace PFOA, but with materials that belong to the same family of fluorine chemicals. These supposedly harmless PFC alternatives are called GenX or ADONA for example. Modifying a few details in the molecular structure of PFAS is sufficient to warrant new research to determine any corresponding health and cancer risks, an enormously time-consuming endeavor that leads to massive delays in government legislation in light of the tens of thousands variants.

Resistance on the rise

Increasing public resistance has been forming for several months now, however. In conjunction with the premier of Dark Waters, attorney Rob Bilott and actor Mark Ruffalo, who plays the leading role in the movie, testified at a congressional hearing in the US on the topic of PFAS. This subsequently transformed PFAS into a 2020 US campaign issue and

Among other things, the European Chemicals Agency has classified GenX from the family of supposedly harmless PFC alternatives, which are still used (and partly released) in the production of PTFE today, as a ”Substance of very high concern.

should provide the issue much-needed public visibility. This issue has simultaneously esca lated in Europe after the European Chemicals Agency last summer classified GenX and others from this family of substances, which are still used today in the manufacture of PTFE (and to some extent released to the environment), as “substances of very high concern.” Given that these substances and their chemical predecessors – exclusively manmade – are non-biodegradable and are disseminated via wastewater and spread through the air, traces can be found not only in the direct vicinity of the production facilities, but also in groundwater near remotely-located plants. Not to mention in human and animal bloodstreams.

A “Greta effect” likely

While blood tests of residents in the Bavarian community of Burghausen, which included children, failed to create any major waves a couple of years ago, new legal restrictions in Holland on some types of PFAS during soil dumping brought the construction industry to a standstill over the past couple of months

and turned it into fodder for the evening news. A nationwide petition calling for a complete ban is already underway. This begs the question that given the availability of polyester- and polyurethane-based alternatives with comparable performance, why has the outdoor industry still failed to realize that diverting attention from the risks of environment collateral damage is not a sustainable strategy? Thanks to Hollywood, consumers are now likely to understand the consequences of using PFAS and that a “Greta effect” will be produced that has made the issue of “climate gases” an unavoidable obligation for our industry within only 18 months. The story of Rob Bilott now serves as a reminder that, given the risks, we should have decided to completely phase-out this chemical long ago. If we are now beginning to think about the 2021/2022 winter collection that will hit the stores in 18 months, perhaps we should consider going to the movies first. ISPO Munich: Hall A1/300 sympatex.com suston – 71

PARTNER: HOHENSTEIN SPONSORED CONTENT

A Fitting Focus With the right knowledge and technology, real data can be used to optimize fit and pattern for reduced returns and loyal customers.

t’s a common issue plaguing brands, retailers and consumers alike: Ill-fitting clothing increases returns, creates waste and ultimately hurts the bottom line. One of the biggest reasons for returns? Improper fit and sizing that affects appearance, comfort and movement. The issues often begin with measurements that don’t consider build, shape, height and age. A 47” chest measurement will mean a completely different fit for a muscular athlete versus the average office worker. Even within target group measurements, movement affects fit and fit affects movement – whether this means

72 – suston

material is wasted during production. Patterns and materials are developed based on intended use. Grading is based on real data for consistency and better coverage of the target group. Users can perform their job or sport effectively. Consumers keep clothing instead of sending it to the landfill. Everyone wins.

MEASUREMENT IN MOTION helping it or hindering it. In sportswear and workwear especially, restricting movement hurts performance. Design must consider the shape(s) and activities of the target group. Hohenstein’s clothing engineers use 3D/4D scanning, 3D visualization, customer data or Hohenstein’s database (including SizeNorthAmerica and SizeGERMANY studies and special target groups such as plus sizes, seniors and children) to create basic and model patterns, correct existing patterns and optimize both size sets and finished measurement tables. An optimized pattern affects more than just consistent manufacturing. Less

Hohenstein conducts anthropometric studies using 3D/4D scanning to record real body measurements and shapes during relevant movements. Does your sports bra customer need support during a run or a yoga session? Need to ensure your shirt doesn’t hinder a powerful serve? Expanding your workwear to a new demographic? Hohenstein converts this data into the perfect pattern and consistent sizing for your target user.

ISPO Munich: Hall A2/225 hohenstein.com

PHOTO: OLICHEL

Suston #8, January 2020

Articles inside

Electric Adventures

Veteran Voices

Reef Challenge

Durability

News

Climate Action

Aiming Higher

B Corp Revolution