Suston SUSTAINABLE OUTDOOR NEWS – FW 23/24
KEEP CALM & CARRY ON?
Finding renewable inner energy to avoid sustainability burnout.
THE FUTURE OF
SKIS Skis embark on their sustainability journey. We predict where it may lead.
GEN Z What do the members of the world’s largest generation really want?
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AMAZON OFFSETS
Failed project, critical climate tool, or something more?
SAVE THE ICE!
The race to collect glacier samples for science.
PARTNER PRESENTATIONS Good brands share good stories.
JOIN OUR MISSION
JOURNALISM FOR CHANGE Suston is the leading international media platform for Sustainability & Outdoor. Using Solutions Journalism, our mission is to guide, inspire and push the outdoor industry towards positive change. Our work has been financed by pioneering outdoor companies and Vision Partners such as European Outdoor Group, ISPO Munich and Performance Days. Also by our parent company NORR Agency, as a part of the company’s impact work. We are thankful for the funding we have received since the launch in 2017. Now we reach out for your further support! In 2024, we want to expand our journalistic scope, to also include and reach the larger outdoor community. We will offer Premium subscriptions for professionals, and more free online content for the many committed outdoor enthusiast who want to be part of the transition. For this, we need stronger economic resources. • As a company, become a Suston Partner. • Sign up for our newsletter Suston Monthly. Here, we will share more about the plans for 2024. • Get in touch to share your mission. sustonmagazine.com
PHOTO: COMMON VALUES UNITED
PHOTO: STÉPHANE ROBIN
EDITORIAL & CONTENTS
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dilemma for those of us who work with sustainability in one way or another is time. On the one hand, the problems around us are acute and getting worse. On the other hand, they require increasingly complex and time-consuming solutions. It’s easy to feel the stress and pressure. The first time I went to ISPO Munich was in 2005, where I went to the different brands and asked “do you have any eco-friendly products?” (before it became taboo to say eco-friendly). Only about ten companies answered “yes.” Today, I think only a small minority would not have any kind of “lower-impact” product on their shelves. Problem solved? On the contrary. During these 18 years, we have approached or exceeded the “planetary boundaries” (read more on p. 32) at a rapid pace. At the same time, dedicated people are working to the point of exhaustion (or past it) to mitigate these issues. So, sometimes we need to stop. Take a break, let our heart rate slow down, look up and think. That’s our intention with this issue of Suston. Find an armchair, grab a cup of tea or coffee, allow yourself to take a break from emails, text messages, to-do lists. Listen to all the wise people we have had the privilege to interview and tell you about. I promise, you’ll have time. Gabriel Arthur, Editor-in-chief
8 News
The latest in Outdoor.
14 Interview
Third Culture Kids claiming space.
16 Gen Z – fact vs fiction
Is the largest generation in human history really what we think it is?
20 Globetrotter Rethink
26 PHOTO: RICARDO SELVATICO
‘Give yourself time to contemplate’
PHOTO: MARCUS HARALDSSON
14
German retailer sees how far it can take upcycling with new store.
26 Amazon offsets
Meet the forestpeople depending on the criticized carbon offset markets.
32 Think tank recharge
Sustainability elite combine environmental seminar and skitouring.
40 Archive of ice
Scientists race to collect ice samples from glaciers before they’re gone.
48 Welcome skis!
40 Suston Editor-in-chief: Gabriel Arthur, gabriel.arthur@norragency.com Editor: Jonathan Eidse Art director: Susan Larsen & Viktor Meidal Cover illustration: Kicki Fjell Editorial advisory board: Arne Strate, Katy Stevens, Joel Svedlund sustonmagazine.com
Slow to start, has the ski segment found its sustainability groove?
59 Program
Sustainability events and workshops at ISPO Munich.
Partner cooperation and sales: Victoria Reim, victoria.reim@norragency.com Suston is published by NORR Agency. norragency.com, info@norragency.com C/o Impact Hub Stockholm, Jakobsbergsgatan 22, SE-111 44 Stockholm
suston – 3
Stopping Rivers of Plastic OBSERVATION
BY JONATHAN EIDSE PHOTO OCEAN CLEANUP
MANY MAY RECALL the teenager founder of Ocean
Cleanup, Boyan Slatt, on TED Talks pitching the idea of using a fleet of wide, u-shaped barriers pulled by ships to collect marine plastic waste. If this technology was scaled up, he claimed, we could effectively tackle marine plastic waste in “the largest cleanup in history.” Ten years later and following multiple failures and reiterations, its S03 system is up and actively collecting trash from the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. Emboldened by its successes at sea, Ocean Cleanup now sets its sights closer to the source: Rivers. The first prototype, “TrashFence,” attempted to stop the flow of trash down the Rio Las Vacas just outside of Guatemala City. But strong river currents soon caused it to breach. Never ones to give up so easily, the Ocean Cleanup team has spent the last year back at the drawing board, identifying and engineering out the flaws of the prototype. Its second attempt, “Interceptor Barricade,” is now set for round two. At time of writing, this two-pronged strategy of oceans and rivers has removed 7,395,373 kg of waste. Ocean Cleanup estimates that with 10 fleets of its u-barriers at sea and with Interceptors at the mouths of the world’s 1000 most polluting rivers, up to 90% of marine plastic waste can be removed by 2040. This would bring Boyan Slatt within reach of his ultimate vision to sunset the organization – once the oceans are clean.
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OBSERVATION
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Win for Ancient Forest Activists BY JONATHAN EIDSE PHOTO TJ WATT
FOR MOST OF THE WORLD’S increasingly urban populations, it’s hard to fathom the size of some of the trees found in the Canadian province British Columbia’s (BC) remaining ancient temperate rainforests. Here, they can grow over 90 meters tall, 6 meters wide and up to 2000 years old. It’s similarly difficult to grasp that, with less than 8% of these old-growth forests remaining in BC, they continue to be targeted and cut down by the logging industry. “Cutting down these living cathedrals to make lumber and toilet paper is akin to grinding up Europe’s ancient castles to turn them into gravel for roads. It’s a crime against our natural heritage!” shares TJ Watt from the advocacy group Ancient Forest Alliance. As BC’s forests are largely found on indigenous territories, any attempts at successfully preserving the few remaining pockets of oldgrowth will need to begin with the First Nations and creating incentives for conservation. This may now be on the horizon. Following persistent advocacy from the Ancient Forest Alliance and others, 1.1 billion CAD has just been earmarked as part of BC’s “30% by 2030” protection target. The funds will be used to support First Nations in establishing Indigenous Protected and Conserved Areas for old-growth protection and compensating resource extraction licensees like logging companies. TJ Watt says it remains to be seen whether this will be enough to quiet the chainsaws, but admits it’s a promising start: “This is the largest provincial funding package for nature conservation in Canada’s history.”
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OBSERVATION
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NEWS
PHOTO: ISTOCK
Greta Thunberg (read more on page 30)
Certified Natural Rubber Rising Globally, there is a rising interest in shifting from synthetic rubber, which is derived from crude oil, to natural rubber. Natural rubber is primarily cultivated in countries like Thailand, Indonesia, and Vietnam, often by smallholders who manage their own plantations. With the increasing demand for natural rubber, however, there is also a growing impact on land use, local ecosystems, and communities. In other words, careful sourcing is required to ensure the transition to natural rubber is an environmental win, not loss. The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) is recognized as the world’s foremost forest certification program, dedicated to the preservation of robust, sustainable forests worldwide. The FSC label certifies that forests are being managed in a way that protects biodiversity, promotes the well-being of local communities and workers, and ensures economic sustainability. The FSC’s mandate extends to various sectors, and is perhaps most well-known for timber and paper. But thanks to an increasing number of certified producers, outdoor brands and consumers can now keep an eye out for FSC-certified natural rubber for footwear, bike tires, and other sporting equipment. 8 – suston
Following the success of the first United Repair Centre (URC) launched in collaboration with Patagonia in Amsterdam last year, a new center in London has opened its doors November 1st. With space for other brands to join, its objective is transforming the apparel industry for the better.
PHOTO: NORRØNA
PATAGONIA EXPANDS REPAIR SERVICES
REUSE CONCEPT AT NORRØNA HOUSE On November 10th, Norrøna unveiled its new Flagship Store just outside Oslo, Norway. The expansive store showcases its entire collection and also hosts REuse, the brand’s inaugural second-hand store. As part of the broader REuse initiative, the Norrøna House also offers product repair, product refitting for a tailored fit, Norrøna item recycling, gear refresh for upcoming seasons, and a rental shop for a “try before you buy” experience.
BETTER COTTON TRACEABILITY
The Swiss-based organization Better Cotton has added functionality to its traceability platform that will enable retailers to trace materials at scale, following the journey of where materials were traded and eventually right down to the farm level were they were grown.
PHOTO: NEMO
“I am pleased to announce that I’ve decided to go netzero on swear words and bad language. In the event that I should say something inappropriate, I pledge to compensate that by saying something nice.”
Nemo’s “Endless Promise”
Despite improving sustainability credentials of outdoor gear, most is still destined to end up in a landfill at the end of life. Nemo’s “Endless Promise” mono-polymer collection seeks to ensure its products avoid this fate by designing them to be fully recyclable. At end-of-life, customers can now request a free shipping label and send the product to Nemo. Nemo will then send the product to a recycling partner, and send the customer a 20 USD gift card as a “thanks for doing your part.”
NEWS
PEOPLE-POWER GREEN FRIDAY
Recyclable Performance Membrane The award-winning three-layer laminate, OD677 by BenQ Materials, uses 100% recycled polyester for both the outer and inner fabric. It also features the PFC-free Xpore membrane, composed solely of carbon and hydrogen, and using a solvent and water-free production. The Xpore membrane and recycled monomaterial combined make this laminate fully recyclable.
This November, Osprey announces it will once again support the European Outdoor Conservation Association (EOCA) with 20% of every sale purchase between November 23-28th. And new this year: Customers will be asked to decide which conservation projects should be supported.
PHOTO: ANNE WANGLER
NEW MICROFIBER FRAGMENTATION TEST
P.O.W. UPDATES MANIFESTO
Ahead of the 2024 EU Elections, the NGO Protect Our Winters (POW) is preparing a campaign to push candidate parties to be progressive on climate and drive maximum voter turnout. POW is also updating its manifesto to hinge on four principles: Supporting a green energy transition; Promoting low-carbon mobility; Accelerating biodiversity restoration; Moving towards circular business models across supply chains both within and beyond the EU.
The Microfiber Consortium (TMC), a collaborative effort by the European Outdoor Group (EOG) and the University of Leeds, has demonstrated the efficacy of the TMC Test Method. By measuring the amount of microfibers released in a simulation of a regular laundary cycle at home, the goal is that textiles companies and brands will be able to develop and choose alternatives that shed less fibers.
COMPETITION TO COLLABORATION
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few years back, it used to be about standing out with a unique sustainability angle: It was a competition to the greenest product or the most innovative approach. But, as sustainability has evolved from an organizational nice to have, transitioning through a marketable business essential, to the unavoidable compliance colossus that it has become, it’s all about working together. “Collaboration” is now the term on everyone lips. Sustainability is the perfect area for collaboration - and not just because we’re all facing the same challenges and working in the same supply chains. With the fate of humanity and the planet hanging in the balance, there seems no better time or reason to all push in the same direction, sleeves up, heads down. Collaboration can exist in many different forms, it can be big multistakeholder projects, or as simple as sharing resources, or fostering aligned thinking. Within industry, collaboration mostly needs management, there can be sensitive information being passed around, and sometimes a neutral organization is essential to act as an intermediary. Fortunately, there are a huge number of associations or independent organizations helping the industry collaborate on a wide range of topics. But most importantly, collaboration is a mindset. It’s putting egos to one side and realizing that this is about more than “me” - it’s about “us.” In turn, it can lead to an incredibly efficient approach, saving businesses both money and time. As an organization founded as a platform for pre-competitive collaboration, it has been a pleasure for us at EOG to see the industry flourish in this direction. So, whether your painpoint be climate, chemicals, labor or animal welfare, you can bet there’s already a collaboration to be found, ready to welcome you in. Katy Stevens, Head of CSR and Sustainability at the European Outdoor Group (EOG) suston – 9
NEWS
SUSTAINABILITY HUB IN PARTNERSHIP WITH VAUDE The Sustainability Hub will take up a large part of Hall A1 near Entrance West. The “Hub” has become the natural meeting place for sustainability minded visitors, with numerous presentations, panel discussions, seminars and networking.
THE TRANSPARENCY TOURS
Attendees should not miss the guided Transparency Tours by Greenroom Voice at 11.00 am each day, to get a comprehensive overview of the exhibitors. Selected experts and exhibitors will be available for interaction and presentations. Following the approximately one-hour tour, there is a 30-minute interaction session with the speakers of the day.
Anna Rodewald from Greenroom Voice hosts the daily Transparency Tour.
Time to Get Together IN END OF NOVEMBER, the outdoor industry in
Europe gathers for what has become the major sustainability get together of the year: ISPO Munich. “At ISPO Munich 2023, we have worked on different concepts and are happy to announce two new areas: The Material Lab and the Circular Experience,” says Alexandra Denker, Category Manager Sustainability & Snowsports at ISPO Munich. The Material Lab, she explains, is an exhibition about innovative, bio-based, and circular materials. Here, producers have the opportunity to show the life cycle and steps of their material development. The Circular Experience, meanwhile, puts the spotlight on mycelium, the basic structure of various fungi, as a raw material. “As in the previous years, the Sustainability Hub, in partnership with Vaude, will provide expert panels, discussions, guided tours, and exhibiting companies - all revolving around the topic sustainability. ISPO’s Sustainability Program Once again, ISPO’s own sustainability program will be presented largely at the designated “Green
2017
THE YEAR Suston Magazine’s pilot issue was launched at ISPO Munich. The positive feedback from the industry made us go ahead! 10 – suston
Stage,” located in the Sustainability Hub in Hall A1. This year, questions that will be wrestled with include “How do we design for a circular future using natural materials?” and “How do we close the loop?” To round off a visit to ISPO Munich 2023, it is worth taking a look at the Future Lab in hall B1. Here, attendees can explore six themed hubs for innovation and change in the sports industry. Educator and networking A look at the schedule shows that yet another packed sustainability program awaits. According to Katy Stevens with European Outdoor Group, this is a clear continuation and affirmation of the show’s role in facilitating education and collaboration: “The way in which the industry works together is changing, and so it makes sense to capitalize on that assembling of the industry by providing education and collaborative opportunities. In the future, I see shows such as ISPO as being so much more than a place to simply make and take orders, and instead as hubs to discuss the bigger themes and find ways to move forward on these topics.”
+40
PARTICIPANTS in the showcase, with additional exhibitors in the Material Lab and Circular Experience.
Getting Europe Active Outdoors Our mission is to get Europe Active outdoors. To make that happen we motivate, activate and advocate, inspiring and enabling individuals and communities, and working towards more diverse, inclusive and responsible participation in outdoor activity.
Outdoor Activity Days Thanks to our Outdoor Activity Days model, we have a precise count of the people across Europe benefiting from outdoor activities, and this number continues to grow! To date, we have organized 8,379 Outdoor Activity Days, leading to the funding of 46 projects, totaling €130,523, across 8 countries.
MOTIVATE people to get active outdoors
Why €40? Find out more
ACTIVATE
ADVOCATE
people and projects
for outdoor activities
WHAT WE DO: We partner with organizations and grassroots to promote responsible outdoor access and engage with institutions to ensure outdoor enjoyment for all.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITY DAY
OUR PLAN: Guided by our board and led by our team, all of our work contributes to the overall #itsgreatoutthere campaign. Our activities are aligned to three main pillars.
HOW IT WORKS
WHAT THEY ARE
€40 is all it takes to get one person active for the recommended weekly time. The Coalition fundraises for Outdoor Activity Days and delivers Outdoor Activity Days with its partners through its grants programme.
Outdoor Activity Days are days of physical activity in nature, meeting the weekly World Health Organization recommendations for physical activity, delivered inclusively and responsibly through Coalition grants.
8.379
46
7.154
130.523
Outdoor Activity Days
Projects supported
People activated
Euro invested
HOW TO GET INVOLVED Share your outdoor moments and follow us
Organise outdoor activities
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ItsGreatOutThere Coalition aisbl | Avenue des Arts 43, B-1040 Bruxelles | Company N° 0679 887 351 | RPR Tribunal de Commerce Francophone de Bruxelles +32 (0) 2 888 59 00 | info@itsgreatoutthere.com | www.itsgreatoutthere.com
COLLABORATIONS
OVERCOMING DATA OVERLOAD
Retailers increasingly ask for sustainability information from the brands whose products they sell. But multiple reporting is causing confusion and taking more and more resources from brand sustainability teams. Can the Sustainability Data Exchange Project (SDEX) solve this? BY JONATHAN EIDSE IMAGES SDEX
“A
MAÏTÉ ANGLEYS
Advisor Corporate Responsibility, German Federation of Sporting Goods Industry (BSI)
DEBBIE READ
Head of Corporate Communications and CSR, Equip Outdoor Technologies UK Ltd
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bout one and a half years ago, brands started asking us for help With the numerous excel forms coming from their retailer partners requesting sustainability-related data for their products,” shares Maïté Angleys, Advisor Corporate Responsibility at German Federation of Sporting Goods Industry (BSI). This eventually led to the collaboration between BSI and European Outdoor Group (EOG) called SDEX, led by Maïté Angleys and Katy Stevens, Head of CSR and Sustainability at the EOG. When reflecting on the early discussions, Angleys recalls that this was initially considered good news. After all, retailers have long been seen as the critical link needed to communicate product sustainability information with end-consumers. This seemed to be a positive development. But the more BSI and EOG conferred with other brands, the more they heard that these forms were taking up exorbitant amounts of time from sustainability teams – and worse, it was on the rise. Rab was one such brand that expressed concern that all was not as it should be: “Consumers demand that we explain how our products are more sustainable,” explains Debbie Read, Head of Corporate Communications and CSR at Equip Outdoor Technologies UK Ltd. “Naturally, consumers are also looking for an easy-to-understand claim. The trouble is, sustainability isn’t that simple. So, brands like us at Rab, are being asked by retailers to provide ‘sustainability data.’ But this data can be misinterpreted by brands, retailers, and consumers. Providing retailers ad hoc data is now resource intensive and prone to error.”
Retailers also get lost in translation
On the other hand, retailers too were found to be struggling with inconsistent answers to their questions – a nuisance, when the entire purpose is to communicate consistent, comparable product sustainability information to the customer. “As retailers, we believe it is part of our obligation to consumers to provide accurate and trustworthy information on a product’s environmental and social impacts to encourage more considerate buying decisions,” shares Melanie Gruenwald, Head of Sustainability at Yonderland. “Unfortunately, the level of information provided by brands often comes in varying degrees of detail and varying formats, making it incredible difficult for us to standardize and upload the information to our channels.” In other words, somehow, somewhere, the wires were getting crossed. And despite all the extra work, the result was inconsistent product sustainability data that only served to confuse all parties involved. Perhaps a pre-competitive, collaborative approach could help solve this? BSI and EOG set to work.
A solution begins to take form
“Of course, any solution would have to acknowledge that every organization has differing views in what they are looking for in terms of sustainability,” explains Maïté Angleys, “That said, what we were hearing was that retailers were interested in the same information, only with their own unique wording or metric.” The SDEX team began collecting questionnaires from the major retailers, and it didn’t take long to identify significant overlaps.
Industry responds positively
According to Maïté Angleys, the development phase in 2023 has exceeded all expectations. The SDEX trials have demonstrated that the potential for time savings for brands can be substantial, and retailers can now get the quality and comparable data they’ve been after all along, to the benefit of their customers. “At Rab, we’ve been frustrated with the lack of
PHOTO: RAB
PHOTO: ISTOCK
“Everybody was indeed asking the same thing, only in different ways,” says Maïté Angleys. ‘What if there was a harmonized way to collect this data?’ they asked. The team set about meticulously mapping these retailer spreadsheets and questionnaires and then consolidated them in a harmonized data exchange questionnaire. Once they received feedback from the retailers that their questionnaire successfully included every single question they had, the SDEX team knew it was ready for real world testing. Following two beta testing rounds of the consolidated questionnaire together with 22 brands and retailers, the SDEX Questionnaire was finalized and officially released in July 2023. To house this data and ensure it is consumable by a retailer’s own data management systems, a prototype SDEX Platform has subsequently been launched in fall 2023. Though developed in collaboration with Outtra and aligned to its widely-used data ecosystem, the SDEX Platform is publicly available and does not require any memberships. Now, instead of filling in data for every single product in a brand’s entire portfolio for each individual retailer, doing so just once per new product is possible for all actors, big or small.
clarity around sustainability criteria, so working to support the SDEX is a really positive step in the right direction,” shares Debbie Read. “Collaborating to agree on a methodology and definitions ensures that the industry is increasing transparency and understanding by using the same sustainability data sets. The SDEX tool will ultimately reduce misunderstanding, reduce workload and streamline data submissions into something meaningful and honest.” Similarly, retailers are finding the value of a harmonized approach to data collection and sharing: “Having a single source of product information on environmental and social features of a product would be a great help to all parties involved. Brands will save time filling in the extensive information for all their retail clients, while we as retailers can adapt our systems to the format of the standardized template and speed up the process on our ends,” shares Melanie Gruenwald.
As simple as that? Rab helps enable informed customer buying decisions through comprehensible data.
MELANIE GRUENWALD Head of Sustainability, Yonderland
‘Time saving potential is huge!’
Despite these early successes and positive reviews, Maïté Angleys suspects that a degree of hesitation remains with some outdoor businesses. What if the SDEX just ends up becoming one additional report, instead of replacing them all? To that end, Maïté Angleys reminds that with SDEX, the heavy lifting has already been done: A retailer-tested and approved, harmonized questionnaire is freely available, making it possible to eliminate entire days’ worth of work. All that’s needed is more buy-in from retailers and brands. “The time saving potential here is huge!” concludes Maïté Angleys. Savings which, in turn, can be redirected to drive actual sustainability action. suston – 13
COMMUNITY
S E G D I R B G N I D L BU I
e so homogeneous?” on ery ev for be ld ou sh at th s nt me “Why are environ s. Now, they strive to lve se em th d ke as s ue ag lle co his d an Wadood Suberu d Culture Kids.” hir “T for en ed Sw in rs oo td ou at gre open up the ES UNITED ON VALU
BY GABRIEL ARTHUR PHOTO COMM
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A
s for many, the pandemic disrupted much of the Stockholm based agency Common Values United’s work. The founders Wadood Suberu, Babak Azarmi and Iskias Araya have their roots in urban expressions such as basketball, hip-hop and street-fashion. Together with brands and organizations, they work with creating positive community action and initiatives in lower-income neighborhoods. Suddenly, as in many other cities, everything was put on hold. “Like others, we ended up taking long walks in nature during the pandemic. That was the only place where you could meet up and socialize!” Wadood Suberu recalls. “Soon, we realized that we really enjoyed this – the silence, the simplicity. But we also started to see that there were mainly white middle-aged people out on the trails.” In their work, Wadood Suberu and his colleagues often target what they call “Third Culture” kids: Young Swedes who mainly grow up outside their parents’ culture and/or have at least one parent born outside Sweden. “This expression is gaining momentum, since it’s not stigmatizing as “second generation immigrants” etc. And in Sweden, up to 40% of people under 15 years of age belong to this group!” When Babak Azarmi made a journey to one of the most popular trekking areas in the Swedish Mountains, Abisko, where the iconic “King’s Trail” – Kungsleden – starts (or ends), he realized that the outdoor community in Sweden was even more homogeneous. “In theory, the great outdoors here are very accessible, with vast nature reserves and national parks, trekking trails, and the freedom to roam. Why do so few of us third culture kids go there?
Lower the thresholds – and have fun
In line with their other work, Common Values United wanted to create a positive, growing community here as well. The project Outsiders Lab was launched. “It’s all about creating safe places where people feel comfortable. You must lower the thresholds! Once per month we rented a bus, invited friends and friends of friends to come with us for a breakfast outside and a walk in some of the many forests around Stockholm. We also tried stand up paddling and other activities. Step by step, everyone became more confident.” This autumn, some from the group traveled to Abisko and the King’s Trail. “When you look at websites, Instagram, brochures etc., from these parts of Sweden, you never see people like us. This makes many of us feel like we don’t belong there. We wanted to challenge this and made a four-day trek, staying in tents and finding our way in this beautiful but rugged terrain.” Wadood Suberu points out that even though the weather conditions and the trekking sometimes were demanding, many in the group – as well as many third culture kids in general – have experienced much harsher conditions. “People have fled from countries in war, left everything behind, crossed the Mediterranean Sea in shitty boats. Sometimes you just need to take a deep breath and remember ‘I’ve been through much worse before…’.” And the effort was not without rewards. “It was tough – but I loved it. To leave the intensity of the big city and just land in yourself and hear your own thoughts again. For me, it was like a four-day meditation.”
A four day trek in Swedish Lappland for “Third culture kids” is one of many activities by the Outsiders Lab.
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REPORT
Gen-Z: What’s Hype and What’s Reality? Is Gen-Z outdoor-loving and sustainable to the core - or jaded, stressed-out digitals who’ve given up on the future? Suston sifts through the conflicting narratives to take a more nuanced look at the generation that’s coming of age – and storming onto the world stage. BY JONATHAN EIDSE
L
IMAGES BERGANS OF NORWAY
FREDRIK EKSTRÖM
Brand strategist and business advisor, Above the Clouds
et’s begin with the hype: What exactly has gotten the marketeers so excited about Generation Z? Well, its size for starters. Those born between 1997-2012 (currently aged 15-25) are said to represent an absolutely mind-boggling demographic of emerging consumers and labor. And indeed, this checks out: Clocking in at around 2 billion individuals, Generation Z is the largest generational cohort in human history. By 2030, Gen-Z is projected to make up 40% of all individuals of working age globally, becoming the single largest consumer segment with a spending power of 33 trillion USD – more than a quarter of global income (Statista). Next, there’s the growing Gen-Z enthusiasm within outdoor industry circles. Because whereas it was hard work trying to convince the preceding X & Y generations that outside was actually a place worth being, Gen-Z is believed to be there already. Here too, available statistics do seem to support the rumors, with Statista again finding that Gen-Z tops the other generational segments when it comes to participation in outdoor activities, even slightly trumping the former champions, Millennials.
The Myth
YNGVILL OFSTAD
Sustainability Manager at Bergans
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Finally, even the often-grim-faced sustainability professionals are finding something to smile about: The word on the street is that Gen-Z’ers are sustainability-savvy. They did, after all, grow up bombarded with existential “climate crises” alarm bells ringing. They also had fellow GenZ’ers like Greta Thunberg to show that they didn’t need to settle for the eco-paralysis that seemed to be afflicting their elders. Again, one needn’t look far to find studies that support this assertion: One report by the market research agency Kadence
finds that 8/10 Gen-Z’ers list “sustainability” as an intrinsic part of their identity and nearly as many say that they’re willing to pay more for products that are more sustainably produced. All in all, we are looking at an utterly massive market segment, which already loves the outdoors, and whose very self-identities depend upon them making sustainable choices. One can see how this would be enough to make anyone involved in sustainability and the outdoors (aka you, Suston’s readers) get a tad enthused. But doesn’t this sound just a little too good to be true?
The Reality…
Maybe it is. With just a little digging, the need for a few fairly obvious caveats to the above Gen-Z stereotype quickly becomes clear. Importantly, the overwhelming majority of Gen-Z is to be found in Africa and Asia. Thus, it’s important to remember that while researchers and journalists may love citing the 2 billion figure, the survey sample is likely to come from the US and the EU where only one-tenth of these Gen-Z’ers call home. Similarly, vague claims of Gen-Z’s “outdoorsiness” may not always be what the outdoor industry has in mind. A May 2023 study by Generation Z market research specialists Ypulse finds that the top outdoor activities can be summed up as, to quote Ken from the film Barbie, “Beach.” With its size and outdoorsiness in question, what then can be said of Gen-Z = Sustainability? “This aspiration towards sustainability seems to hold true of Gen-Z across the EU and the US,” shares Fredrik Ekström, a brand strategist and business advisor who helps companies understand the emerging Gen-Z consumer. “But for brands operating in this space, it’s
In the project “Re:Dux” outfits are upcycled from used Bergans products.
Meeting Gen-Z halfway One outdoor brand that goes the extra mile to meet Generation Z wherever they are is Bergans of Norway. Bergans has a mature offering of rentals, resale, and repair services. But its finding that when it comes to Gen-Z, a stop in at the schools and universities is particularly worthwhile: “We do redesign and repair workshops with students and we have the same experience everywhere: At first, they think the sewing machine is a bit scary and they hesitate,” explains Yngvill Ofstad, Sustainability Manager at Bergans. “But when they start cutting an old shell jacket, giving the sewing machine a try and then end up with a great new redesigned piece – they really enjoy it. It is something about making something yourself, to master a craft, they’re just so satisfied!” Bergans also collaborates with students at the design and fashion school Esmod in Oslo. The “Re:Dux” outfits (see above) are upcycled from used Bergans products, collected through the company’s own return scheme. suston – 17
XXXXXX
Redefining outdoor? When Gen Z tells about their favorite activities, getting together and have fun is more important than climbing the hardest routes.
essential to understand that there’s no one-sizefits-all approach to attracting Gen-Z consumers through sustainability offerings. While 8 of 10 of them may identify with sustainability, their interpretations of sustainability vary significantly.” He continues to explain that a diversity of motivators can affect these interpretations. They could, for example, be driven by values (what he calls “Dedicated Pioneers”), results (“Anxious Activists”), or storytelling (“Eco-Swingers”). And regardless of what the motivation, the resulting behavior might not always be what we’d expect: “It’s crucial to note that their sustainability self-identification doesn’t always translate into action,” says Fredrik Ekström, “these kinds of behavioral shifts take time.”
Gen-Z counterintelligence
A different picture thus begins to take shape, whereby this notion of Gen-Z’s “sustainability-first” identity might be a tad unrealized – if not outright overstated. A Foresight Factory Trends for 2023 report, for example, found that 51% of Gen-Z respondents essentially expressed that they are occupied with trying to have as much fun as they can now and let the future take care of itself. How can both this and the “sustainability-first” hypothesis be true at the same time? Fredrik Ekström may have an explanation. “Our ‘The NXT Sustainable Consumer Report 2023’ found that a staggering 9 out of 10 Gen-Z individuals feel that their individual efforts towards sustainability disappear into a metaphorical black hole, doing neither good nor bad, which creates a sense of helplessness,” shares Fredrik Ekström before continuing: “Additionally, 6 out of 10 Gen-Z individuals fear being judged negatively if they make incorrect 18 – suston
choices. This dilemma results in a ‘Paralysis Paradox’ — they want to do good, are inspired and attracted to those who do, yet they feel uncertain about how to proceed.” In other words, there appears to be a strong desire to act sustainably, but efforts to satisfy this desire are frustrated by various outside factors. “This fear of making the wrong choices and facing negative judgment could fuel a desire to rebel against the norm of caring and trigger an escapism sentiment of ‘Why can’t we just have fun?’”
A more nuanced perspective
So where does this leave us? For starters, Generation Z is not the homogeneous group of sustainable outdoor enthusiasts many might hope. And lumping 2 billion young people into one stereotypical cartoon will lead to misunderstanding – and disappointment – for those especially excited with Gen-Z’s hyped potential. “It’s important to recognize that all consumers, including Gen-Z, are driven by emotional incentives, and their short-term actions of not caring does not necessarily contradict their long-term aspirations of doing good. For Gen-Z, these perspectives coexist,” shares Fredrik Ekström. “They want to do good, gain knowledge, have fun, and experience new things all at once. Therefore, sustainability solutions that cater to these multifaceted desires, such as second-hand products, ghost-net jackets, circular stores, and fun collaborations are attractive and important. They all balance between amusement and education, while doing something good for the long-term.” In the end, Generation Z might be just like the rest of us – conflicted. Acknowledging this could be the first step towards realizing their (and our) true sustainability potential.
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UPCYCLING
RETHINKING RETAIL With their Re:Think store in Bonn, Globetrotter has found an upcycling concept in store design with numbers to back it. Around 97 percent less CO2e emissions and 94 percent re-used materials are just some of the results. BY MARTINA WENGENMEIR PHOTO NADINE ALBRECHT, NIKLAS VOECKLER, MIRIAM ERSCH-ARNOLDS & GLOBETROTTER
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ANDREAS VOGLER CEO, Globetrotter
MICHAEL BRAUNGART
Professor at Leuphana University, Founder and Scientific Director of Braungart EPEA
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ne of the most sustainable approaches is to use things that are already there. It takes courage and a pioneering spirit to go down this path. But the results of the scientific study by our partner EPEA show that it’s worth it.” Andreas Vogler, CEO of Germany’s largest outdoor retailer, Globetrotter, explains the idea behind the “Re:Think Store” in Bonn. It was opened in May 2023, and features a very special concept: Almost the entire furnishings of the previous tenant Conrad Electronic were taken over and reused in the new store in creative ways. A pioneering approach in the retail sector, whereby store interiors are usually built completely from scratch. For example, here vacuum cleaner holders were converted into backpack carriers, and old OSB boards and discarded metal sheets were transformed into a test track for hiking boots. An absolute eye-catcher and visual highlight of the store is a large bear sculpture, a nod to the retailer’s own logo. It was created from scrap metal and electronic waste by an artist and features old CCTV cameras as eyes. The Re:Think concept is complemented by sustainability offerings such as an in-house repair workshop and the largest second hand sales area in a Globetrotter store to date. With the “Clubhütte” – the Club Hut – there is also a community
space offering regular talks and workshops about sustainability and outdoor topics. Here, the results and learnings of the store concept are prepared to be presented at branch events in the fall.
Cradle-to-Cradle perspectives
“Sustainability needs transparency and participation. We want to be an enabler and create a value-driven community with our customers,” says Vogler, which is why the retailer also stepped up its communication to the customer in an effort to encourage more sustainable consumption. Throughout the store, pointers and signs highlight the former purpose of a shelve or where it came from. New gear in-store also aims to be high-value and long-lasting to support circular economy efforts. One of the invited experts is Prof. Michael Braungart, chemist, process engineer, and co-inventor of the Cradle-to-Cradle principle. According to Braungart, there is still a great deal of scope for design in the sustainability sector and a lot of potential for creative thinking. “The sustainability principles reduce, reuse, recycle actually start with rethink, redesign and reinvent.” The Re:Think Store aims to follow these rules not only in name but in principle. Cupboard handles and interior decoration were made of discarded climbing ropes, branded spaces were repurposed from trade shows or other stores as well as the cash desk counter, which was previously used in another Globetrotter branch. Collecting store data EPEA is an independent innovation partner for environmentally compatible products, processes, buildings, and urban quarters. At the event, EPEA presents a study about Globetrotter’s Re:Think store. According EPEA’s calculations, a conventional store construction project of comparable size would have generated around 105 tons of CO2e. By contrast, the Re:Think store’s reuse
The large bear sculpture was created from scrap metal and electronic waste.
From vacuum cleaner holders to backpack carriers.
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INDUSTRY WINNER IN SPORTING GOODS RETAIL
The German Sustainability Award Foundation has selected Globetrotter as the 2023 winner in the Sports equipment retailer category. Besides the Re:Think store, Globetrotter has launched several circular initiatives. By buying and selling secondhand items in all branches and online, the supplier gives used clothing, bags, and backpacks a second life. The company also offers equipment rental, both online and in eight Globetrotter shops. In 15 of 22 branches, equipment is professionally maintained and repaired. The “A greener choice” label supports costumers to identify more sustainable product alternatives in the assortment. globetrotter.de
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concept emitted only 3.12 tons. The reuse of existing materials therefore contributed to a CO2e avoidance of around 97 percent. This is roughly equivalent to the amount of CO2 that would be emitted if one were to circumnavigate the globe by car about a dozen times. Overall, the store has a reuse rate of 94 percent - that is to say, most of the materials and pieces of furniture used were already in use before, for example at the previous tenant Conrad Electronic or a Globetrotter store. The six “new” percentage points include wall paint or light fittings equipped with new energy-saving LEDs. Around 88% of the materials used in the store can also be reused in the future, as they can be dismantled or repaired without damage or considerable effort. A circular benchmark for others? EPEA had before developed a planning and documentation tool for enabling the circulation of a building in collaboration with architects, planning disciplines as well as the construction firms, their Circularity Passport Building. In the course of the collaboration between EPEA and Globetrotter, the idea of also developing a “Circularity Passport Interiors” was born. This tool can be used to evaluate the implementation of the cradle-to-cradle design principle in relation to interior design. In
this way, raw materials for products, processes, and buildings are used in a manner where they are either retained in a technical cycle with the same quality or can be returned to a biological cycle and completely degraded. So, just like on the label of an outdoor jacket, the materials used in the Re:Think Store in Bonn were meticulously recorded. Likewise, fittings, shelving, and all interior furnishings were also designed to be easily dismantled and reused after they have served their purpose in the store. The Re:Think Store is not a ready-made sustainable blueprint for every new retail outlet to come, explains Globetrotter CEO Andreas Vogler. That’s because the conditions would depend on the premises being taken over. Some of the lessons learned, however, are currently being brought to good use. Such as in the construction of a new repair workshop in Cologne: “Bonn can’t be replicated; you just learn from it and take it with you into the future. We will look at what we have and how we can re-use it, and we’re thinking more about craftsmanship.” Still, the Re:Think store in Bonn can serve as a benchmark not only for outdoor retailers, but also for other industries with many retailers: Upcycling in-store construction is possible – and can lead to substantial impact reductions.
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SPONSORED CONTENT POLARTEC
Polartec Performance Fabrics With Biolon: Nylon Just Got Better Polartec’s Power Shield and Power Stretch Pro are now using Biolon* plant-based nylon fiber and membrane.
B
iolon is a renewable, non-GMO plant-based nylon with a 50% lower carbon footprint than virgin Nylon 6,6, the standard against which other nylons are measured. Biolon nylon properties are also closer to Nylon 6,6 than many recycled nylon alternatives currently on the market. In other words, Biolon makes the best better in terms of performance and improved sustainability. Its plant-based inputs account for almost half (45-48%) of the nylon content in the fibers and membranes in new Polartec Power Shield and Power Stretch Pro fabrics. The innovation is another step towards Milliken & Company brand Polartec’s sustainability goal of increasing recycled and bio-in24 – suston
puts throughout its range, reducing the brand’s reliance on fossil fuels and reducing the carbon foot print. Biolon plant-based nylon used in the Polartec Power Shield has a minimum water resistance rating of 20K mm (ISO 811) and a minimum breathability rating of 20K g/m2/24 hours (JIS L1099, B1). This fall’s new Power Shield fabrics will feature Biolon nylon inputs in both the membrane and fabric components. Polartec Power Stretch Pro is a dual surface fabric comprising a highly durable nylon exterior and a soft, comfortable polyester interior that is breathable and features 4-way stretch performance. Polartec’s newest fabric release successfully replaces half of fossil fuel based
nylon content with Biolon plant-based nylon. The use of Biolon plant-based nylon results in a 50% lower carbon footprint vs. virgin nylon, while preserving all that is loved about this iconic fabric. Ramesh Kesh, Senior Vice President Government & Defense and Polartec at Milliken & Company said: “For a long time, many thought that sustainable options meant a loss in performance. Polartec has proved that this is not the case. Challenging a technology already considered to be at the pinnacle of performance was a big ask, yet the team at Polartec rose to that challenge and we believe we have created a new standard in sustainability for performance fabrics.” * ©2023 Polartec, LLC. Polartec® is a registered trademark of MMI-IPCO, LLC. Biolon™ is a trademark of Milliken & Company.
polartec.com
SPONSORED CONTENT HOHENSTEIN
Back to the Earth
Often at the end of a textile product life cycle, we make the decision on how best to dispose the product. For a sustainable future, we could consider biodegradability. What is needed for successful biodegradation?
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he textile and apparel industry is based on intensive use of resources. Yet resources are finite. Biodegradability of textile products can be one solution to drive sustainability. If a product is biodegradable, it decomposes into substances that provide the basis for new life and resources. How easily a textile biodegrades depends, among other things, on its composition, and which raw materials were used during its manufacture, along with the chemical structure and the dye, print, finishes applied. For certain product groups, such as functional textiles, biodegradability is still particularly difficult to implement. This is because chemicals and fossil-based raw materials are often used to ensure a certain function, such as water repellency or flame protection. This can inhibit or even prevent biodegradation. It is necessary to rethink and develop new materials. Policies aim to encourage this with
stricter regulations in the near future. The European Green Deal and the associated Textile Strategy have already paved the way for regulatory tightening. Therefore, the search for alternative fibers based on circular and renewable resources is becoming increasingly important. There is also increased research into the biodegradability of chemically treated petrochemical textiles. To be competitive, future-oriented, sustainable unique selling propositions are needed, as well as knowledge about potential negative effects of textile products on the environment. In this respect, independent testing laboratories play a crucial role. Only companies that are aware of their textiles’ impacts can proactively minimize them and thus prepare for upcoming regulations. Biodegradability must be demonstrated through a biodegradation test for a product to be labeled biodegradable. And even if it can be completely biodegraded, the
further effects are complex and can lead to unpredictable, e.g. ecotoxicological consequences. Therefore, a biodegradation test should always be followed by an ecotoxicological test. Only then can a biodegradation test be fully evaluated as valid and positive. Hohenstein offers testing of the biodegradability of textile products in different milieus such as soil and wastewater and the associated analysis of potential hazards to the environment. The tests can help meet the requirements of the Green Deal and resulting mandatory laws. After passing the tests, a label can be acquired that conveys trustworthy, proven sustainability statements to the end consumer. Find us at ISPO: Hall A1, Stand 347 www.hohenstein.com/en/ suston – 25
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CLIMATE ACTION
CARBON OFFSETTING & LIVING FORESTS?
Carbon offsetting via rainforest protection is widely criticized – once again. As media talk about “phantom credits” and “carbon pirates,” isn’t it time for companies and consumers from the Global North to just avoid all such investments? ‘No, but they need to do it right,’ says indigenous representatives as well as local experts in the Amazon.
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TEXT AND IMAGES: MARCUS HARALDSSON
ould you like a carbon offset with that?” The question pops up ever more frequently in our commercial lives. Whether we are offered “netzero beef ” or “carbon-neutral flights,” the offer is to alleviate our troubled conscience from buying a new product, into satisfaction for letting the purchase contribute to solving the climate crisis. Oftentimes offsets are spent to “avoid deforestation” in the Global South. The issue is, of course, extremely urgent. For example, warnings mount that the Amazon rainforest – which holds over ten percent of all species on the planet, and about ten years’ worth of current carbon emissions in its biomass – could be on the brink of a disastrous tipping point that would turn it into a species poor and carbon spewing savanna.
berg calls the system “a dangerous climate lie.” Similarly, the World Rainforest Movement calls offsets “rotten at the core,” and “built on neocolonialism” whose “primary function is to buy another decade or two of unrestrained corporate profiteering from fossil carbon extraction and industrial agriculture while increasing outside control over community territories.” To make things worse, a report in the scientific journal Science found that 94 percent of studied offsets from certifier Verra were found to be false or inflated. It was quite a blow, as Verra controls the backend verification process of two thirds of the annual $2 billion and rapidly growing “voluntary carbon market.” When the results of the Science article were widely reported, it prompted the resignation of Verra’s founder and CEO and a deep crisis of legitimacy for the whole system.
Criticism from NGO’s and researchers
Nuances lost in heat of debate?
Critics argue, however, that there are no such thing as carbon “offsets.” Airplanes and beef will inevitably add excess carbon to the atmosphere, and no payment can undo it. Activist Greta ThunAugusto Postigo
But where did all the money go? Is it all just “hot air” – as The New Yorker magazine recently called offsets in a dense 14-page article? It seems clear that a lot of money is spent on middlemen with pennies left for people on the ground. And then, there is wide agreement that many of even the best carbon offsets are extremely hard – if not impossible – to prove. To scientifically validate that a plot of forest has “avoided deforestation,” there must be verifiable proof that those particular trees would, without action, have been cut down. Reality is usually much messier and more unpredictable. On the other hand, some of the money that does get all the way to the forest provides genuine benefits – even if the immediate “carbon offset value” is zero.
INSTITUTO SOCIOAMBIENTAL (ISA)
ISA is an NGO in Brazil that works at the intersection of forest protection and human rights for traditional peoples. The organization works on social, economic, and policy issues, conducts research, maps threats and solutions in collaboration with local partners in the Amazon and beyond. socioambiental.org
BRAZIL’S EXTRACTIVE RESERVES (RESEX)
Rubber tapper Chico Mendez started a movement opposing deforestation and promoting the livelihood for traditional peoples in the Brazilian Amazon in the 1970s. Mendez’ legacy is Brazil’s so called extractive reserves, or “Resex,” where inhabitants can sell products sustainably harvested from intact forests. There are around 90 Resex in Brazil.
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CLIMATE ACTION
Harvesting and sales in Amazon “Resex.”
Indigenous people forgotten – again REDD+ BY THE UN
The REDD+ program “Reducing Emissions from Deforestation and Forest Degradation” was developed by the United Nations. It was intended to be the framework where the Global North compensated the Global South for emissions, while saving the world’s tropical forests. It was never fully implemented but has left two voluntary systems: The governmental system is dominated by payments from Norway that has invested more than the rest of the world combined (to date about $5 billion). The private system is dominated by companies like Verra, which sell offsets to companies and consumers.
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Some months ago, eight networks of indigenous peoples from over 40 countries signed an open letter in support of the United Nations program REDD+ (see fact box). The groups argue that recent critical research and reporting bears some merit but has been done without taking any indigenous perspectives into account. By so doing, scientists and journalists have simply doubled down on the main problem of the whole system, which now needs to be addressed: The lack of any involvement from people living in the forest. The groups claim that REDD+ projects are one of the only ways in which their peoples can support themselves and protect their environments. They are worried that the effect of the criticism will simply be that money will stop flowing, and that their lives will be made impossible.
Living forests need living communities
In northern Brazil, Augusto Postigo has been working for the influential NGO Instituto Socioambiental for decades. The organization works to transform the economy of the Amazon to protect both forests and the people in them. He agrees that money is needed to create change: “To protect the forests, we need to keep people living there, and people need money to survive.” Augusto Postigo oversees the implementation of a system created by the country’s most famous human rights and forest activist, rubber tapper Chico Mendez, who in the 1980s argued that thriving forests and forestpeople’s survival were intimately linked. Mendez, like many activists in Brazil, was murdered by cattle farmers, but his
system of “extractive reserves” lives to this day. In these intact forests, indigenous and traditional groups are allowed to harvest whatever they can find. It has been shown that these areas are comparable to strictly protected areas in terms of protection – while at the same time being effective carbon sinks. However, to be able to even bring the products to markets, the price of these goods must be subsidized by up to seven times their market value. Also, for the forest to keep being inhabited and protected from illegal logging, young people need to see financial and life benefits from staying in the forest and keep their traditional knowledge. “Money from carbon programs make lives in the forest sensible,” explains Augusto Postigo.
A new lingo – or a genuine shift?
Some offset companies are now shifting their marketing. The world’s leading supplier of consumer offsets, South Pole, had made a small fortune selling offsets to some of the world’s largest companies. Until, that is, it faced serious criticism about exaggerating deforestation threats against a forest in Zimbabwe. In lieu of this, South Pole now seeks to limit its usage of marketing lingo like “carbon neutral” and is instead selling the insignia “This Company Funds Climate Action.” Maybe “funding climate action,” combined with transparency, knowledge, and inclusion instead of carbon neutral-hype is a more honest and fruitful way of collecting money for what must be saved. And at the same time, combined with genuine, far-reaching efforts to lower companies’ and consumers’ overall emissions.
CLIMATE ACTION
DO WE NEED VOLUNTARY CARBON MARKETS? From the outside, the carbon offsetting debate seems never-ending. But insiders see both developments and communication challenges. Suston reaches out to Kai Landwehr from Myclimate to learn more.
O
n Myclimate’s website, you list nearly 50 Frequently Asked Questions. What are the most common misconceptions about carbon offsetting?
The most popular misconception is that the companies engaging in climate protection beyond their value chain (formerly known as offsetting) take the easy way out. That they pay for their indulgence and continue their “bad” business-as-usual approach. We know from our customer base and from recent scientific studies that this conception is simply not true. These companies spend much effort and money on internal greenhouse gas reduction and avoidance strategies. Financing effective climate projects usually comes on top of that. It is not a question of “either–or,” as in either reducing or financing. Climate protection with impact means “as well as.” Do your best and take responsibility for the rest. And that is what the vast majority of these companies do.
KAI LANDWEHR
Corporate Marketing Manager, Myclimate
From your point of view, are the terms “Carbon Neutral” and “Net-Zero” still relevant? At Myclimate, we have replaced our “climate-neutral” label with a different claim (Myclimate “Engaged for Impact”). Now, with the rules of the Paris Agreement in force, it is no longer possible to count reduction emissions from projects elsewhere in your balance. That would be double-counting. Secondly, consumer-rights organizations criticize correctly that those claims are misleading as they draw attention away from the fact that a product causes CO2 emissions. That communications change is a big step to move the existing tonne-for-tonne approach to a more honest and responsible tonne-for-money approach.
The REDD+ is also often debated. What is your view on it?
Forest protection is of overwhelming importance. We will never reach the Paris goals without a sig-
nificant contribution from the land-use-and-forest sector. We need to plant trees and protect existing forest ecosystems. However, we had long discussions about the effectiveness of projects following the REDD+ guidelines, their methodology, and requirements. As there were still many questions not sufficiently answered, we didn’t offer REDD+ projects to our partners. That changed with the first REDD+ projects following the Plan Vivo standard, a small but rigorous standard for forestry projects.
Are there reliable ways for brands to separate the serious actors from the unserious?
First, I think that most people and organizations in this area do their job with good intent. As in any other business, a working market also attracts fraudsters. However, they are the absolute exception. Generally speaking, if a possible partner in climate protection focuses more on quality and sustainable co-benefits than on the cheapest price per tonne, that usually is a good indicator. Also, the level of transparency helps to find a trustworthy partner: How much information is available to the public and how much information is shared with you upon request? Central figures, a list of partners involved, and information about internal and external due diligence are key.
How can consumers know what to trust in this communication jungle?
Outdoor companies are forerunners when it comes to climate protection and environmental integrity. But that doesn’t solve the problem of the label jungle. The upcoming EU Green Claims Directive will hopefully help customers find better products. But, there are also initiatives from within the industry like the Sustainability Data Exchange Project (SDEX) from European Outdoor group that have the potential to provide more and better guideline, ultimately also at the point of sale. (see page 12 for more information on SDEX) suston – 29
SPONSORED CONTENT MAMMUT
The Power of Cluster
Mammut revolutionizes mountain insulation with down innovations and its latest European-produced “Mammut Loopinsulation,” made using upcycled rope scraps.
A
s we gear up for the upcoming winter season, Mammut is proud to unveil its revamped insulation line in the clothing sector—the all-new Mammut Mountain Insulation, tailored for a wide range of outdoor activities and weather conditions. The company’s primary focus is clearly on enhancing resource efficiency, and durability while embracing circularity. A major milestone in this endeavor is the introduction of Mammut Loopinsulation, now proudly produced in Europe. This innovative, polyester-based insulation material is the result of a collaboration with rope manufacturer Teufelberger and is derived from production scraps originating from the manufacture of industrial ropes. What sets it apart is its unique sheet and 30 – suston
cluster technology, which minimizes micro-losses at the same time, does not require any glues at all, and is available in various grammages. “With Mammut Loopinsulation, we are embarking on a journey to reuse our materials with a circular and resourceful approach. This marks the first generation, laying the foundation for the future,” said Helena Theba Material Management Lead at Mammut.
Natural warmth amplified
For over five decades, the Swiss mountain sports outfitter has been using recycled down. The reason for this is more relevant than ever: Fewer natural resources are needed, less waste is generated and in terms of animal welfare, it reduces the demand for new down and
feathers from living birds. Today Mammut proudly offers high-quality recycled RE DOWN that complies with the Responsible Down Standard. In addition to these recycled down offerings, Mammut is introducing DRY DOWN technology for the first time next winter. This innovation leverages the natural properties of down while enhancing them. This is achieved by treating the natural insulation material with a PFC-free DWR making it exceptionally moisture-repellent– 90% less water is absorbed–while ensuring that the loft is retained and the wearer stays warm even when damp. At the same time, it dries 30% faster than untreated down. www.mammut.com
Mammut Loopinsulation: Sender IN Hooded Jacket
Mammut DRY DOWN: Aenergy IN Hooded Jacket
The Sender IN Jacket boasts a wind- and water-repellent recycled outer material, representing a significant step forward in the company’s commitment to closed-loop production and environmentally friendly manufacturing with minimal impact.
Mammut’s lightest insulated jacket (240g) is the perfect choice for cold-weather mountain adventures. It features a responsibly sourced hydrophobic down fill (850 cuin; 80g) and a PFC-free, water-repellent finish to ensure excellent insulation even in wet conditions. suston – 31
RENEWABLE INNER ENERGY In the evenings, the Vatnahalsen Think Tank participants discuss the urgent crises our planet faces. During the day, we go ski touring in the beautiful mountains that surround us. Is it possible to combine hard climate work with something as playful as skiing? Not only is it possible - it may be necessary. TEXT AND PHOTO GABRIEL ARTHUR
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INSPIRATION
“T
here will be no feel-good talk around ‘green-tech’ and ‘net zero.’ This is a ‘red pill’ type presentation,” says researcher Kevin Anderson. He is a professor at Manchester University in the UK and holds a visiting professorship at Uppsala University in Sweden - a logistical challenge since Kevin Anderson stopped flying in 2004. He is also a member of the Scientist Rebellion network, which believes that scientists must break with “objective” neutrality to take a stand and act on their insights. For the uninitiated, “the red pill” is a reference to the 1999 cult movie The Matrix, where the main character Neo can swallow either the blue pill, and continue to live in his fake, albeit safe, existence, or the red pill and wake up to the terrifying truth. There are twenty people listening, and most of them would probably say that they have already taken the red pill when it comes to the environment. Since 2017, Professor Johan Rockström, one of the world’s most renowned climate experts, and his partners have been inviting people to an annual think tank on skis. The invitees are a mix of scientists, entrepreneurs, business leaders and activists. Some are regulars, others – like me – are new. Apart from our love of skiing and mountains, the common denominator is a strong commitment to the environment and the climate. But maybe it’s time for a new awakening?
Fun times first
It has been a long, beautiful day in the mountains as we gather in the large meeting room at the Vatnahalsen Hotel. Most people are still wearing ski clothes and their cheeks are rosy and slightly frostbitten. In recent years, the hotel and the steep mountains around it have become a hot-spot for Scandinavian ski touring. In its earlier heyday, in the 1930s, Vatnahalsen was called “Norway’s St. Moritz.” A single hotel, large and painted red, there’s hardly any resemblance to the Swiss luxury resort today except for the snow and the mountains. In winter, you can only get here by train and there are no lifts. But there is fantastic off-piste skiing, which can only be accessed with skinequipped skis or splitboards. When we set off from the hotel earlier this morning, it was fifteen degrees Celsius below zero. We had been divided into three groups, each with a mountain guide. Our group zig-zagged up between the stunted mountain birches on the approach to Geitanosi, where we came up on the bare mountaintop. Here, we took a short coffee break and began descending a narrow and steep passage on the mountain’s backside. It was up and down and around the mountain from this point, and then we eventually worked our way back to
the hotel - where fresh coffee and waffles awaited. Now, playtime was over.
Hard truths follow
Kevin Anderson says we need to face reality: “Claiming that we can meet the UN climate goals of the 2015 Paris Agreement and limit global warming to 1.5 degrees compared to the pre-industrial era is either fraud or self-deception. “The first major scientific report on climate change came out in 1990. Today, the emissions are over 60 percent higher. You still hear a lot of political rhetoric and optimism about the future. But the trend line tells us that we are heading towards 3 to 4 degrees centigrade within this century. This will be an absolute climate catastrophe for all species, including our own.” For half an hour, he hammers home statistics and research that paint a bleak picture of the future - and of the wealthier parts of the world. “If the top 10% of emitting individuals globally were to reduce their carbon footprint to the level of an average European citizen, global emissions could be reduced by one third in a matter of a year or two.” “We can talk about green growth and all this stuff. But it’s meaningless. The only thing that counts is action and systemic change.”
Planetary boundaries and hockey sticks
The next speaker is Johan Rockström himself. On the train journey from Stockholm, one of the co-organizers said that Johan Rockström and Kevin Anderson belong to two factions in research: Those who believe in collaboration between academics, politicians, business, and civil society - and those who believe that it is these actors who have created the problems in the first place. Instead, nothing short of a revolution is needed. ‘“It’s good that we get to hear wise representatives from both sides,” he said. But in fact, we are soon served another red pill. Johan Rockström’s presentation broadens the perspective from climate to the concept of “planetary boundaries.” There are nine of them, including climate change (see box). In fact, the situation is even worse when it comes to biodiversity, for example. Johan Rockström shows a slide entitled “The Great Acceleration” with 24 historical graphs. All of them have almost identical curves: Up to around 1950 they increase linearly, after 1950 they rise steeply. “Whether we look at global water consumption, fertilization, fish catches, methane levels in the atmosphere, etc., they all have the same shape: Like a hockey stick.” Johan Rockström is a well-known name internationally. Like Bob Dylan, he is on a Never-Ending Tour, with regular appearances at the UN, the suston – 33
INSPIRATION
World Economic Forum in Davos and more. It is clear that he has given the same presentation many times before, the message is straightforward, clear, educational – and harsh.
How to create positive tipping points?
PLANETARY BOUNDARIES
The planetary boundaries present a set of processes that regulate the stability and resilience of the Earth system. Crossing boundaries increases the risk of generating large-scale abrupt or irreversible environmental changes. These nine planetary boundaries were first proposed by Stockholm Resilience Centre in 2009, led by Professor Johan Rockström and a group of 28 internationally renowned scientists. Since then, their framework has been revised several times. The latest update not only quantified all boundaries, but it also concludes that six of the nine boundaries have been transgressed.
stockholmresilience.org
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The Vatnahalsen think tank is attended by his sons Alex and Isak Rockström, both passionate researchers and skiers. Afterwards, I ask Alex Rockström if he noticed any differences from previous talks. “I recognize most of it. Except that Dad’s message gets darker every year.” After dinner we gather in a large room that used to hold dance galas back when Vatnahalsen was “Norway’s St. Moritz.” We discuss the two lectures in groups and the atmosphere is subdued. True, there are “hockey sticks” with positive developments as well, such as the global development of solar energy. But they are not nearly as numerous. And how will we have enough time before different “tipping points” start to interlock and the changes become beyond human control? Perhaps we are already there? Johan Rockström says that he usually spends the last third of his talk speaking about solutions and opportunities. To focus on creating hope and energy. But not this time, he explains. “ I already see you as part of the solution, so I didn’t think it was necessary.” It’s nice to hear, but we are still a rather depressed crowd going to our hotel rooms. Yesterday, we took the train for a whole day, today we were up in the mountains for the same amount of time. I am exhausted, yet I lie awake half the night wondering where the hell we are heading.
Educational avalanche rescue
The next day we are back on Geitanosi. Upon reaching a plateau, our group’s mountain guide, Linus Kulstad, leads the obligatory avalanche rescue exercise. Using our avalanche transceivers, probes, and shovels, we will search for a buried “skier.” The method used is common to mountain guides around the world, honed over the decades. “The time factor is key. It’s estimated that a person survives a maximum of ten to fifteen minutes buried under the snow. So, you have to move very quickly and methodically.” When people die, it is common to investigate what went wrong at the time. One of the most common mistakes: Skiers get a huge stress response and forget everything they have learned. They wander around in the snow, searching and digging aimlessly. Or stand apathetically by, watching the minutes tick away. But now, it’s another sunny, beautiful day. We’re on a plateau and there are no people buried under the snow, just a device. We find it within
the desired time limit, using the mountain guide’s method and good teamwork. The symbolism is almost too obvious. Globally, the avalanche has passed, but there is still hope. If we work together quickly, purposefully, and methodically, the rescue can succeed. But if we act in panic or become apathetic – we’re all but guaranteed to fail.
From problems to solutions
The ski day ends again with waffles, whipped cream, and jam – a Norwegian tradition – in the main meeting room. The subdued atmosphere from last night is gone, people look tired yet satisfied. Skiing aside, maybe the better mood is also because we have been promised two solution-focused presentations. Pella Thiel is an ecologist, farmer, and co-founder of End Ecocide Sweden. Her talk is about why mass damage and destruction of ecosystems, or “ecocide,” must receive a juridical status as an international crime, along with genocide, crimes against humanity, war crimes and crimes of aggression. She also shares how this movement has grown from below, from indigenous peoples and the environmental movement in collaboration with personally committed lawyers around the world. “A few years ago, we were considered naive. Today, Ecocide is being discussed in the media and in parliaments around the world. Several states have already shown their support for this issue,” she tells the group. The collaboration between grassroots and idealistic lawyers is not unique to the Ecocide movement. Research shows that many social transformations are based on precisely this combination. Opinions may differ on whether the changes have been good or bad, but there are structural similarities between the success of the anti-tobacco and anti-abortion movements in the US, for example.
A business race to zero
As a young man, Nigel Topping was a dedicated adventurer and climber, spending months in the wilds of Greenland and Patagonia. Later in life, he traded in his shell jacket for suits. But his passion for the mountains and nature remains, he says. Nigel Topping co-founded We Mean Business, a collaboration between global companies such as IKEA and Nike, and international NGOs. In 2014, We Mean Business launched the concept of Science Based Targets and drove the negotiations at the UN climate summit COP 21 in Paris in 2015. Nigel Topping was later appointed as the UN Climate Change High-Level Champion, and as the UNFCCC’s Global Ambassador on the “Race to Zero” and the “Race to Resilience.” His approach to creating change differs from
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Swamped with negative reports, sustainability professionals increasingly need to recharge. 36 – suston
INSPIRATION
Pella Thiel’s. He talks about identifying “positive tipping points” and accelerating change there. About “action architecture,” or how to avoid reinventing the wheel and instead create effective and radical collaborations. And how to get global decision-makers “to align with a mission.” Both have been part of Johan Rockström’s skiing think tank before. “To be honest, I also thought Pella’s vision sounded a bit naive when she told me about it five years ago. After listening to her tonight, I am deeply impressed,” says Nigel Topping.
Long slopes, long conversations
We participants literally get to know each other step by step, as we walk and talk side by side up long, gentle slopes. Conversations move freely from how fast the climate is changing here in northern Europe, to, well, anything. We agree that if we had been stuck in a conference room for four days, we may have possibly gotten more done. But on the other hand, we definitely would have felt much worse. In the mountains, nature often demands our full attention. The weather changes quickly, from sunshine to strong winds. Going up is physically demanding and going down in untouched snow is sometimes a pleasure, or sometimes a struggle. I’m in the same group as Johan Rockström, and he tells me that every think tank is different. “Group dynamics have a lot of influence, and we as organizers also have different approaches from time to time. Sometimes we have focused on actually producing something, such as a manifesto. Other times, it has been more about thinking creatively.” However, common to them all are two key ideas, which are to communicate the latest research to various key people and to create bridges between different actors, such as the business community and non-profit organizations. “There is a third, unspoken purpose: To re-energize everyone by being out in nature,” says Johan Rockström.
Solutions and depressions
The “conference” part of the stay in Vatnahalsen continues to alternate between daring to see problems and finding the solutions. We sit in a circle and discuss, followed by a workshop where we can draw on the group’s experiences for things we are struggling with. It is clear that there are many high achievers in our midst, who are used to pushing themselves and others. Brita Staal works as Climate Lead in Smart Innovation Norway and has previously co-founded both Protect Our Winters Norway and Europe, and a tech company that analyzes climate risks. Before the workshop, she emphasizes that we
must dare to consider that quick solutions do not necessarily exist, and that we can allow ourselves to feel both climate anxiety and sadness about the rapid change in ecosystems. In retrospect, she says that for many years she had worked endlessly to raise awareness and create change. “We need ‘all hands on deck’ to turn things around. But at the same time, you get tired of working a lot with heavy climate issues, both at work and as a volunteer in climate organizations. We live in Lofoten in northern Norway, and I try to limit my work by being in the mountains.” The Swiss Patrick Frick is in the same group as me on the ski tours. His CV also includes several entrepreneurial ventures, including founding the Global Commons Alliance. Every day I see that he gets a little quieter, but at the same time seems more harmonious. “I’ve noticed that myself! Like many in the international community focused on the planetary emergency, I’ve been working without a break for many years. Around me I can almost see a collective burnout. We need this so much, the silence in the mountains, the long days of just walking together.”
The reward of untouched snow
On the last evening, we sit in a ring and share what we’ll be taking home with us. Some have ideas that they want to pursue further. “We need a science communication revolution!” But most talk more about the personal, with similar thoughts as Brita Staal and Patrick Frick. “For me, this is about personal regeneration,” says Keith Tuffley, Global Co-Head of Sustainability and Corporate Transitions at the banking and finance company Citi. Charlotte Kalla, Sweden’s most successful cross-country skier of the 2000s, says, “The situation is much worse than I had realized. I may not be leaving here with hope, but with inspiration.” There is an old Sami proverb that says, “Nature is a quiet but fair teacher.” I think about this several times during the days in Vatnahalsen. When doing summit tours with climbing skins, it is important to find a steady and sustainable pace. It is easier to walk together. The route needs to be adapted to the terrain, weather, and other circumstances. It is important to rest and replenish your energy at regular intervals. Otherwise, you will simply run out of steam. On the last day of skiing, all three groups end up on the same peak. Below us is a perfect slope with a few inches of fluffy, cold loose snow. I see one person after the other skiing down with wide smiles, like children playing. If sustainability was just one long uphill battle, no one would be able to cope in the end. The key is to find the rewards and the joy – together.
PARTICIPANTS VATNAHALSEN THINK TANK 2023 Kevin Anderson Gabriel Arthur Alexander Crawford Lotta Dizengremel Anders Enetjärn Patrick Frick Lucas Grind Per Heggenes Erik Huss Charlotte Kalla Linus Kulstad Cecilia Lindén Carl Lundberg Mikal Nerberg Erik Rodesjö Johan Rockström Isak Rockström Alex Rockström Brita Staal Isak Stoddard Pella Thiel Nigel Topping Keith Tuffley
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SPONSORED CONTENT FJÄLLRÄVEN
Pioneering for a PFC-free* future: Fjällräven’s journey continues.
Martin Axelhed.
Donna Bruns.
An Inconvenient PFC Truth While “PFC-free” has become a common claim in the outdoor industry, Fjällräven’s extensive journey of eliminating PFCs since 2009, closely aligned with scientific research, reveals a much more complex reality.
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he year 2023 was supposed to be a landmark for the journey that Fjällräven began in the early 2000s. At that time, the company was concerned by the latest research findings on the dangers of PFCs*. Donna Bruns, Global Product Director at Fjällräven, describes it as a wake-up call: “Not only did we learn how toxic these chemicals were to both animals and humans, but they were also already everywhere, and their breakdown was extremely slow,” says Bruns and continues: “Our eyes were opened. Was this truly something we wanted to use? It seemed to completely go against the core values of our brand, deeply rooted in sustainability and nature.” The final piece of the puzzle? A journey would follow with many positive results (such as the Eco-Shell fabric with PFC-free DWR launched in 2012 and the phasing out of PFCs from all fabrics in 2015) as well as major setbacks (such 38 – suston
as hidden contamination from other products or manufacturing discovered on Fjällräven’s products). Coming into 2023, Fjällräven had long since gained control over the full supply chain of fabrics, not only for apparel, but also for its tents, backpacks and more. Now, the last PFC-puzzle piece seemed to be in place: Zippers. After overcoming many challenges, YKK, the world leader in zippers, was able to unveil a waterproof zipper produced without PFCs. “We were just getting ready to once again say ‘yes, we’re there!’ until we found out that all the painted zips still had PFCs in the paint,” Bruns recalls. Science doesn’t have all the answers Researchers believe they’ve only located roughly 80% of fluorochemicals’ areas of application, while 20% are yet to be found. Meanwhile, the ban on fluorochemicals is set to become effective in California by 1 January 2025, followed by the EU later in 2025 or 2026. For
Fjällräven, the upcoming ban is strongly welcomed as it will push other brands to make the same shift and also make it easier to communicate the needed change to suppliers. Fjällräven’s long PFC-journey has made the company skeptical about certificates and bold claims around PFCs. “We have learned so much about testing and validating, and just how thorough you need to be. A certificate is just paper, you need to follow up constantly,” says Fjällräven CEO Martin Axelhed. To this, Brun adds: “It’s like there’s no end to it. This isn’t a success story. Not yet. It’s hard, continuous work. We’re constantly on the lookout for when and where it will pop up again.” *PFCs here stands for per- and polyfluorinated chemicals, a group of toxic “Forever-chemicals” that include PFOA, PFOS and other per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances known as PFAS.
Fjällräven at ISPO: A2.302
SPONSORED CONTENT BRAIND
NextGen Ingredient Brands for a Regenerative Economy From performance to sustainability to the regenerative economy. Ingredient Branding has undergone a “remarkable transformation” says Tomas Vucurevic, Managing Director of the Ingredient Brand consultancy Braind.
• First-Gen Ingredient Brands make their customers’ products better • Second-Gen Ingredient Brands help their customers achieve their sustainability goals • Third-Gen Ingredient Brands support their customers to contribute to the regeneration of the planet.
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s the regenerative economy emerges, the strategic brand consultancy Braind extends its well-known ingredient brand model by a new, third generation: 1st generation: Performance The first generation of Ingredient Brands were rooted in proprietary innovations and technologies that provided significant performance enhancement to the finished products in which they were incorporated. The core mission of first-generation Ingredient Brands was to improve customers’ products and provide a better product experience for their end-users. 2nd generation: Sustainability With the second generation, the focus shifted from performance improvement to sustainability solutions. Materials companies began to address environmental
issues by recycling specific waste streams and making products more sustainable. In this way, second-generation Ingredient Brands help their customers better achieve and demonstrate their sustainability goals such as ESG or SDG targets. Next generation: Regeneration The concept of a regenerative economy goes beyond sustainability and the mere circularity of materials. While sustainability aims to maintain and reuse existing materials, the regenerative economy strives to additionally improve the local environment and societies. This approach involves actively restoring ecosystems, supporting communities, and creating products that biodegrade or serve multiple purposes. Third-generation Ingredient Brands help its customers contribute to the regeneration of the planet’s environmental and social situation.
Collaboration is the new keyword Collaboration between sustainable material innovators and brands is key to successfully navigating this new landscape. As the world looks for solutions that go beyond maintaining the status quo, Ingredient Brands have the potential to lead the way in regenerating our planet and communities while delivering products that align with these principles. Tomas Vucurevic from Braind predicts that NextGen Ingredient Brands will need to act more holistically and not think only about the full lifecycle of their materials but also the regenerative aspects for communities and the planet. Interested in Ingredient Branding? Get a free 30 min. consultation: bit.ly/ingredientbranding suston – 39
CLIMATE RESEARCH
ICE FOR THE FUTURE From Svalbard to a soon-to-be-realized ice archive in Antarctica; glaciers are central to climate research, but are melting faster and faster. Scientists are now racing against the clock to collect and store ice samples for future research. BY ANNA LILJEMALM PHOTO RICARDO SELVATICO
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now chemistry researcher Andrea Spolaor was not really worried. Everything was planned down to the last detail, after all. The snowmobiles were waiting at the research station in western Svalbard. The drilling machine and its spare parts were packed, as were tent beds and food for the entire research team. He had made seventeen expeditions to Svalbard before. Nevertheless, he would soon find that there were some surprises in store once the expedition was underway. Andrea Spolaor works at the Polar Science Institute of the Italian National Research Council in Venice. He is an expert on ice cores. Now his task was to coordinate an expedition with scientists from Norway, France, and Italy. The goal? To retrieve three 130-meter-long ice cores from one of the largest glaciers in Svalbard. He had spent months planning and now the trip was finally happening. There was a storm, and the whole landscape was white. “We couldn’t see anything, but we set the GPS to the right coordinates. After a couple of hours on the snowmobile we arrived and were able to set up camp,” recalls Andrea Spolaor. The researchers buried their tents in the snow on the Holtedahlfonna glacier at an altitude of 1,150 meters. The thermometer showed 20 degrees below zero, but the strong winds brought the windchill equivalent down to 40 degrees below zero. The next day the work would begin. An arctic outpost Around three hundred polar bears live in the Svalbard archipelago. Spitsbergen, the largest island, is home to the world’s northernmost post office, the world’s northernmost hospital and the world’s northernmost research station. Formally, Svalbard is a part of Norway and Norwegian laws apply, but anyone from anywhere in the world is welcome to settle here and conduct business activities. No visa or residence permit is required. Even so, the population remains only 2,600 people. The archipelago consists of about 60 percent glaciers, 27% uninhabitable rocky areas and only 13% is covered with vegetation. There are no trees taller than knee height. In many ways, Svalbard is a country in reverse. Anyone taking a walk outside the village must, according to the law, be armed with a rifle. Cat ownership is forbidden, however, in order to protect the rich bird population. Ideally, you should avoid dying as well. In fact, dying here is forbidden by another ancient law. The permafrost is so deep that bodies cannot be properly buried - but perhaps this is about to change.
that serves as a historic climate archive. Each air bubble in the ice holds a small sample of the atmosphere from the time the ice was formed. By studying layer upon layer of ice, it is possible to draw conclusions about how the climate at the site has varied over the centuries. It is possible to see how automobiles have developed, whether volcanic eruptions took place and how carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere have changed.
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A frozen archive with ice An ice drill core is a large cylindrical piece of ice
Practical research on Svalbard’s Holtedahlfonna glacier.
The strong winds brought the windchill equivalent down to 40 degrees below zero.
This is information that today’s climate scientists are very interested in. Ice cores therefore provide an important piece of the puzzle when the UN climate panel IPCC models the future climate. The Arctic region is already severely affected by climate change. For parts of the year, the permafrost has now started to thaw and temperatures are rising faster in the Arctic than in the rest of the world; four times faster on average and even up to seven times faster in some places. Almost all of the world’s glaciers are shrinking, and in recent years the melting has also acceleratsuston – 41
CLIMATE RESEARCH
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ed. This will make research on glaciers and climate increasingly difficult. The Svalbard expedition is part of an international project to make such research possible, even in the future. The Ice Memory Foundation collects, rescues and manages ice cores from glaciers around the world to preserve them for future generations of scientists. In 2024 and 2025, a 300 square meter cave will be built under the snow in Antarctica. Called the Ice Memory Sanctuary, it will be a haven for the world’s remaining glacial ice. The idea is to build a large climate archive, much like a library. The extremely cold location has been carefully chosen, as the average temperature here is 54 degrees below zero. For parts of the year, it is as cold as 84 degrees below zero, so in other words, no cooling systems required. Of course, at the same time, glacier research is needed here and now. That’s why Andrea Spolaor and his research team would also drill ice cores that would be transported to the university and analyzed there.
We knew there was a risk that we would encounter meltwater. But we didn’t think it would be this bad.
IMPORTANT CLIMATE ARCHIVE
The thermometer was invented in the 17th century, but thanks to ice cores it is possible to obtain information on historical climate even further back in time. From the cores, it is possible, for example, to make conclusions on temperature, atmospheric carbon dioxide and volcanic activity. The world’s oldest ice core is 800,000 years old.
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Unexpected discovery The drilling site is similarly carefully chosen. In 2005, another research team drilled an ice core here. The plan now was to compare the new material with the old, as the glaciers have changed rapidly over the last 20 years. The researchers wanted to be able to study the change in detail. With new technology, it is also possible to perform analyses that were not possible at the time. The first ice cores were exactly what scientists had hoped for. The drilling machine delivered meter-long ice cylinders. In order for them to be safely transported down from the glacier each core was cut in half. This made them less heavy. They were then packed into coolers made from recycled fishing nets. The problems started at a depth of 25 meters. The drilling machine was brand new, and had been thoroughly tested in advance. The only problem was that they encountered water. A lot of water. “We knew there was a risk that we would encounter meltwater. But we didn’t think it would be this bad,” says Andrea Spolaor. The researchers drilled both on the edge of the glacier and on sloping terrain. During the drilling expedition in 2005, there was no water at all. This was still believed to be a site unaffected by meltwater, but they were wrong. It wasn’t long before
the first drill motor broke down. Fortunately, they had four in reserve. After two hours, they had drained three hundred liters of water from the borehole, but the water flow was still the same. By now, they had managed to drill 50 meters into the ice. Suddenly, the next drilling motor broke down on account of the high water pressure. “At this point, we didn’t dare to continue. We realized that we had to change location,” recalls Andrea Spolaor. Three hundred years back in time A few days later, the drilling dome and the associated drilling machine were moved 150 meters away. At the new drilling site, the research team was able to drill all the way down to the bedrock without encountering water. Nor did they have to drill down 130 meters as they had planned: The depth of the ice here was lower than at the first drilling site, whereby each layer in the ice cores was more compressed. It was enough to drill 74 meters to bring up the entire climate archive. They also managed to drill up a third core. The researchers noted that the shallowest ice cores were slightly less sparkling and crystal clear than they were used to. Was this also a sign of climate change? Catherine Larose notes that it still remains to be seen. She is a researcher in microbiology at the French National Research Center. Like Andrea Spolaor, she has made many previous expeditions to Svalbard. “I estimate we can trace at least three hundred years back in time from these cores,” shares Catherine Larose. When the researchers finally relaxed a bit and sat back, there was another change in the weather. The extreme cold was suddenly replaced by unusually warm weather. In the camp, the temperature had risen to around zero and in large parts of Svalbard it even started to rain. The researchers packed the precious cargo on sledges, but on the way down from the glacier they got stuck in a meltwater stream that had not been there on the way up. It took three hours to unload and move the cargo to safety. Andrea Spolaor admits that he did get a bit nervous throughout the ordeal: “It was extremely stressful at the end. Only when the last block of ice was in the freezer was I able to relax.” After 23 days and pulling up a total of 270 meters of ice cores, the expedition was complete. Technology is constantly evolving The first two drill cores will be analyzed soon. Catherine Larose is responsible for transporting the cores to Europe, with their likely destination being the University of Venice. The researchers
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Three ice cores were drilled, with a total of 270 meters of ice.
Stored and ready for transport to universities around Europe.
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CLIMATE RESEARCH
ICE MEMORY FOUNDATION
A collaboration between several universities and research institutes in France, Italy, and Switzerland. The goal is to build an international ice archive in Antarctica so that future researchers can also examine ice cores. Sponsors include outdoor companies such as Aku and Petzl. ice-memory.org
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will study how much the climate in Svalbard has changed and which parameters affect the glaciers the most. Catherine Larose will conduct one of the world’s very first analyses of the microbiology of the ice cores. “Scientists have looked at microorganisms in the ice before, but in the last 15-20 years, new DNA technology has been developed that enables completely new types of analysis. The idea is to see how the composition of microorganisms has varied with different weather patterns. I’m super excited about this, and really hope it works,” says Catherine Larose. New storage facility in Antartica The third and final core will later be moved to the future ice archive in Antarctica. Carlo Barbante is professor at Italy’s Ca’ Foscari University, Director of the Polar Science Institute and Vice President of the Ice Memory Foundation. “We are talking about the collapse of glaciers. On some glaciers in the Alps, we have lost 90% of
the ice mass in a century. And most of it has happened in the last few decades,” he says. The new drilling core storage facility will be built at an altitude of 3,200 meters, near the Concordia research base in Antarctica. While waiting for the snow cave to be completed, the ice will be stored in various cold rooms around the world. “This is a very big project, but we need to act now. I have realized that these climate archives are literally disappearing under our feet. In thirty or fifty years, we will have completely new analytical methods to study the ice, but by then it could be gone,” says Carlo Barbante. So far, scientists from all over the world have collected ice core samples from countries such as France, Bolivia, and Russia, and the project is urgent. In just a few years, it may become too risky to stay on the Holtedahlfonna glacier in Svalbard, for example. “This was perhaps the last chance to drill there. So, I am very grateful that we succeeded,” reflects Andrea Spolaor.
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SPONSORED CONTENT AKU
Aku Launches “Impacto” Aku offers retailers Impacto, the first manual of its kind that estimates CO2 emissions from outdoor footwear.
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he issue of environmental impact will continue to be a central topic in the outdoor industry. Aku’s commitment to researching design and production solutions to reduce this impact has long been one of the main assets driving the brand’s development strategy and its relationship with retailers. “Impacto” is an innovative tool developed by Aku that involves the quantification and certification of CO2 emissions levels for individual products and the entire organization.
Complex system in a simplified manual The launch of Impacto represents the final stage of a two-year analysis process by Aku. The calculation of its Carbon Footprint of Product, was conducted according to internationally recognized standards and was verified by the external body Bureau Veritas, underscoring the reliability and credibility of the results. The CO2 footprint is not a generic framework into which data can be simply inserted. Instead, it is a meticulously 46 – suston
developed model that takes into account Aku’s distinct organizational structure, procurement practices, production methodologies, and shipment processes. Consequently, the calculation of the CO2 footprint now enables Aku to work with a specific and accurate data model. The data collection process encompasses all stages of Aku’s operations, extending up to Tier 3, which entails tracing the footprint back to the raw materials. All this information forms the basis of the CO2 calculation system, and empowers Aku to determine the CO2 footprint for each individual model within its product collection. A long and complex work, but now made simple and accessible through a working tool that explains to retailers how to realistically estimate the CO2 emissions resulting from the sale of outdoor footwear in different categories. This quantification enables the retailer to independently or in collaboration with the manufacturer take concrete actions aimed at offsetting the impact.
BELLAMONT V-LIGHT GTX Footwear for urban and nature use. Produced in Europe in Aku-owned factories. 100% of the components are traceable. Featuring animal leather free upper with Gore-Tex membrane, coconut-latex bamboo insole and recycled materials.
Read the manual on Aku’s website: www.aku.it/en/co2-working-tool/
SPONSORED CONTENT GORE-TEX
Made for Those Who Demand More
Since the invention of the Gore-Tex membrane almost 50 years ago, the brand stands for durable weather protection and comfort in functional outdoor clothing. During that time, the membrane technology has been constantly improved and reinvented.
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he year 2021 marked the beginning of a new era, when Gore presented a completely new complementary material platform as the basis for their membrane technologies. In autumn 2022, the first Gore-Tex products with the completely newly developed ePE membrane entered the market – initially two-layer products for moderate outdoor activities. In 2023, brands such as Mammut, Norrøna and Patagonia launched the first three-layer performance garments, suitable for trekking, freeriding or ski mountaineering – the type of Gore-Tex jackets and pants outdoor enthusiasts demand. The success of new innovative Gore-Tex technologies has always been based on scientific research and development in Gore’s own labs. The aim: To make the lives of
outdoor enthusiasts, mountaineers and athletes safer and more comfortable. Firstly, suitable materials are identified and processes are developed, for example to transform polyethylene (PE) into a highly microporous, thin and yet strong membrane. Scientific methods are then constantly used to test, test, test. Gore ensures that all products are “fit for use” – that the products do what they are supposed to do to follow the strict brand standards for the intended use.
The next step: For those who demand more
Brands that have previously relied on Gore’s durable, functional apparel solutions are working on their next gen products incorporating Gore’s new technologies. Brands like Adidas Terrex,
Arc‘teryx, La Sportiva, Lowa, Mammut, Meindl, Mountain Equipment, Norrøna, Patagonia, Peak Performance, Rab, Reusch, Roeckl, Salomon, Ziener, Zanier and many more will introduce garments, footwear and gloves at the ISPO for fall/ winter 2024. The company, which not only invented a new material in the 1970s, but also laid the foundations for a completely new category of clothing, footwear and gloves, is taking the next step with the new technologies and remaining true to its goal: To ensure long-lasting product performance, being durably waterproof, windproof, and breathable with low impact on the environment. Gore at ISPO: A3.404 suston – 47
INNOVATION
THE LATE BLOOMER
The snow sports industry has been slow in adapting sustainability as a business driver – but it has recently found its momentum. Suston’s expert Joel Svedlund reports on today’s status and suggests where the industry might be in the coming years. BY JOEL SVEDLUND ILLUSTRATION JONNA FRANSSON
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JOEL SVEDLUND
Sustainability Consultant Peak63N Outdoor Lab
now sports experience the pressures of climate change from several angles, being directly affected by warmer temperatures that in turn lead to shorter, less predictable seasons and loss of snow and ice cover. At the same time, supply chains, travel to ski resorts and the efforts to produce perfect snow conditions are emitters of greenhouse gas emissions, which in turn directly contribute to climate change. Over the last two years, I have been in sustainability dialogues with snow sports companies, building collaborative action towards sustainability. It all started with a report on environmental impact from skis by the Swiss NGO Mountain Wilderness, at the same time as a group of ski brands initiated work around ski recycling with the Federation of the European Sporting Goods Industry, FESI. Several brands were already making individual progress but, up until this point, there was very little industry collaboration for sustainability in the sector. Since then, we have together built a network with the main international ski and snowboard brands in the EU and US, guided by the advancing EU legislation and the industry’s own will to adapt and incorporate sustainability as a core ingredient of business.
‘We need to change… fast”
Fast forward to the Ski Industry Climate Summit in Salzburg, Austria in September 2023. With 150 participants from all parts of the snow sports industry, hosted in a collaboration between the 48 – suston
Amer-owned ski giant Atomic and the NGO Protect Our Winters, it manifested the new industry approach to climate and sustainability: Open and bold discussions paired with concrete collaborative action. This was a good starting point, with the challenge of producing a roadmap towards the ambitious goals of the Paris Agreement and EU green deal. The summit started and ended with Protect Our Winters’ message to the industry, framed by pictures of wildfires, droughts and floods: We need to change, and we need to do it fast. Not just for more precious winter days and business survival, but also for human wellbeing and ecosystem resilience. With expert presenters from both within the industry and topical experts on legislation, life cycle assessments, recycling and more, the summit focused on solutions to accelerate the climate journey. Examples of production waste recycling, environmental footprinting and best practice materials were paired with in-depth legal sessions and closed room sessions to develop LCA frameworks.
Do we dare to dig deeper?
While it was a positively overwhelming experience to see this level of commitment, there are still big questions that did not appear on the agenda. The issue of resource consumption, growth and current business models did not make a mark in Salzburg. Maybe it was enough to dive into all the technical and product-related aspects of sustainability this time. But, if we are serious,
it is imperative to start looking at the way we do business as well. Circular Business Models is a holy grail to lower resource use, keeping the products in use for longer. The second-hand market is lively during seasons. Similarly, ski, boot, and pole rental has been around for ages and is an integral part of business. However, the possibility to make specific rental equipment, which is highly serviceable, modular, and repairable for a long lifespan, has not been fully realized.
New business models
As next steps, it’s imperative that ski, boot, and pole rental starts with product design and includes very long product lifecycles where a product can be revived over and over again by changing the wear parts and “re-baking” the ski to new conditions. Rental should include protective
equipment and clothing when needed, with digital condition monitoring of the protective gear and full-service wash and care for all parts that get sweaty or stained during the days in the slopes. If the previous years have been relatively silent from the snow sports industry, I predict that the communication will intensify drastically now that the big players are on the move and have started aligning their targets with each other. We have a long journey ahead and I sincerely hope that most global industries and societies will join in so as to keep prosperous living – including deep powder skiing – a reality also 100 years from now. It is still possible! suston – 49
INNOVATION
FRESH TURNS FOR SNOW SPORTS? Learn more about low-impact skiing and how snow sports can become more sustainable, from the skis to the mountain operations.
THE SLOPES Fossil-fueled snow management contributes to carbon emissions. Today: Diesel-fueled groomers shifting snow during a large portion of the off-hours, for a perfect carving surface and fun park. A large part of the snow is produced synthetically. Tomorrow: Electric or hydrogen powered groomers, more backcountry ski areas with “natural” slopes and less machine work in the remaining cold climate zones. At the same time, almost all snow within the groomed ski areas is either stored or produced, due to a warmer climate.
SKIS A major part of the materials used in skiing. Today: A complex mix of wood, foams, plastics, metals, and fibers laminated together by epoxy glues. Produced with a considerable amount of fossil energy in the supply chain. Tomorrow: Consciously selected materials that enable repair, refurbishment, and recovery of materials after use, using glues that can be taken apart in recycling stage. Most materials and involved chemistry are either bio-based or recycled. Produced using only renewable energy for both factories and transports.
50 – suston
TUNING, REPAIRS, REFURBISHMENT A key to multiply product lifecycles. Today: Tuning and waxing is a standard offer, repairs and refurbishing can be made if you find a good ski technician on your own. The lifespan of a ski is unclear, no simple indicators of when it has lost its performance. Tomorrow: Every ski store/rental offer tuning and simpler repairs of all their products. More complex repairs and full refurbishment are supported by the brands, with educated ski technicians available in all skiing countries. An accredited, honest condition assessment of skis, bindings, poles, and protective equipment can be done in any repair shop.
RECYCLABILITY At the end, no valuable parts or materials should go to waste. Today: For skis and snowboards, there are available epoxy solutions that can be dissolved, breaking up the product into its different materials and parts for recycling. However, only a few such products are on the market. Poles in aluminum can be material recycled if there is collection of metals in your country. Helmets and other protection are generally incinerated or landfilled. Tomorrow: Full-scale industry collaboration around recyclability standards that influence material choices, design for recyclability and marking of parts to make sorting simple. Joint efforts to build collection systems, sorting and recycling facilities that re-utilize the products and materials at their highest value.
BOOTS AND PROTECTION Key ingredients to keep your body safe.
BINDINGS Safely transferring control and power. Today: Mechanical pieces made of virgin metals and plastics, often thought of as an accessory to the ski, replaced when something breaks and discarded when the ski breaks. Tomorrow: Parts made to last and outlast the binding itself – while other parts are made for wear. Highly serviceable and made for disassembly. Bindings outlast the skis and longlasting parts can be used in the next generation of bindings. Wear parts go to material recycling.
Today: A mix of plastics, foams, textiles, and some metal. Generally made from virgin materials, with very low content of recycled materials and not designed for recycling. Personal Protection regulations set strict rules on the lifespan and when a product should be replaced. Tomorrow: Products made for service, disassembly, and recycling. Condition monitoring made simple with chips that log skiing and impact forces, and scanning devices in the service shop indicating material integrity issues. Priority is to change parts rather than whole products. Parts go to recycling.
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SPONSORED CONTENT SYMPATEX
Ready for Circular Economy Sympatex has developed its own Eco Design Guide that brand partners can design their products in a circular way. The eco-design recommendations have been implemented in a separate trade fair collection together with YKK.
T
he ecological footprint of a garment depends very much on the choice of material. Membrane manufacturer Sympatex is convinced of this and is therefore expanding its product portfolio every year to include laminates made from fibre2fiber recycling. Interesting for everyone, because the entire textile and outdoor industry is called upon to reduce its footprint immensely within the next few years. At the same time, a circular economy only works if everyone participates and the implementation is complex. Companies that previously acted separately from each other must now cooperate. 52 – suston
Sympatex continues to demonstrate that this is possible through a variety of pilot projects. In fact, the membrane manufacturer has been working for years to drive change in the industry. For example, Sympatex is explicitly dedicated to the topics of design-to-recycle, digitalization, recyclability through mono-material, the development of a product portfolio based on recycled textiles, water savings, CO2 emission reductions and the use of bio-based contents. “A circular economy is the most effective solution for reducing the ecological footprint, along with promoting product longevity, conscious consumption and, of course, the elimination of certain
chemicals such as PFAS,” says the CEO of Sympatex Dr. Rüdiger Fox. The company’s focus is on polyester. As a fiber, polyester has many advantages. Polyester fabrics are very durable and can be recycled in a closed-loop system. The production of polyester, especially recycled polyester, uses less water than many other fibers, and by working closely with carefully selected suppliers Sympatex ensures that production is done in the most sustainable way possible. “We strive for innovation projects, cooperation and trend-setting collaborations that ideally accelerate our efforts towards a circular economy. “, says Kim Scholze, CSMO Sympatex.
The joint pursuit of collaboration is demonstrated by Sympatex in its trade show collection with YKK. The idea is to integrate matching trims that underlines the importance of choosing the right ingredients for a sustainable garment. The process allows the brand to better understand the issues its brand partners face and find starting points in the design process to close the loop. The design underscores the importance and necessity of making decisions regarding the right materials for a sustainable garment.
Design Thinking
One approach that should lead to problem solving and the development of new, innovative ideas is Design Thinking. The goal is to find solutions that are convincing from the user‘s point of view while also being market and product oriented.
Sympatex offers design training for their partners. With regard to high-performance functional clothing, everyone is faced with the challenge of making the right decision between aesthetics, purpose and function, all of which are aimed in the direction of sustainability. The Sympatex „Sustainable Design Guide“is designed to help everyone to develop the most sustainable product possible with the brands waterproof and recyclable materials, combining proven principles with new approaches. Sympatex does not aim to provide definitive answers but thought-provoking approaches, inspiration & impulses. Changing the fashion industry towards sustainability is also about changing behaviors, ideas and general perceptions about what fashion is – and what it can become.
CIRCULAR ECONOMY – THE NEW STANDARD In March 2022, the EU Commission published the new EU legislative packages - The textile sector will thus be the first industry to fully transition from a linear to a circular economy. Raw material-saving, waste-avoiding, low-pollutant, and recyclable. These are the new principles for the European textile market. Here, circular design strategies will play a crucial role and must be implemented already in the design process. While sorting and advanced recycling technologies are constantly being developed, changing the design process is the basis for overcoming the subsequent technical challenges.
Sympatex at ISPO: A1.156 suston – 53
TUTORIAL
OUTDOOR MINIMALISM 10 CLOTHING AND GADGET TIPS An outdoor wardrobe that blurs the lines between work and play, using carefully selected equipment that can be used for all possible occasions. Here are ten tips to help outdoor enthusiasts make smart decisions for both their wallets and the environment. BY ANDREAS BJÖRKMAN AND GABRIEL ARTHUR ILLUSTRATION VERONICA BALLART LILJA
1
Choose multi-functional solutions The outdoor industry has always been driven by innovation, be it gas stoves or tent poles. For some of your activities, you might really need specialist gear (ice climbers, for example, need gloves with good grip and extra protection over the knuckles). But in many cases, the same shell jacket can be used for skiing, hiking, or cycling to work. Today, more and more designers are looking for multi-functional solutions, such as climbing helmets that can be converted into ski helmets (and vice versa).
54 – suston
2
Reduce the number of colors In the world of fashion, “capsule wardrobe” has become a familiar concept. In short, it’s a minimalist wardrobe with few but well-thought-out pieces that work in many combinations and contexts. The same thinking can be applied to the outdoor wardrobe. Colors are an important factor here, whereby it’s better to have a few carefully selected colors that match each other rather than a chaotic explosion of color. This also helps reduce the risk of getting tired of your garments. If you want to add an “accent color” that stands out - do it with smaller and less expensive pieces.
3
Do your research We often talk about the ills of “fast fashion.” But is it only poor quality that sees products discarded early? Impulse purchases that fit poorly, cause chafing or are impractical are in fact the worst purchases - for both the environment and your finances. Doing research like reading tests and reviews, talking to knowledgeable friends and experienced outdoor salespeople will help you find the right products. Think long-term. If you want to use the product for many years, it’s worth spending extra time and money now to avoid repeating the procedure again soon.
4
Pursue timelessness Several studies end up with the same conclusion: Today, many people have lots of unused clothes in their wardrobes. This also applies to outdoor clothing. A common reason is that fashions have changed. But surely there are many garments, shoes and gadgets that never go out of fashion? That have that elusive yet distinct timelessness. There’s no shortage of examples of such classics in the outdoor world, many of which only look better and better with time.
5
Think outside the box Do you have a pair of comfortable wool base layer pants for skiing? Try using them as tights when jogging in the winter - you’ll probably appreciate how warm they are even when you get a little sweaty. Another good tip: Many ski pants are made to fit over your slalom boots, but flap around your ankles when you wear regular shoes. It is often enough to add an extra button or sew on Velcro to make the pants fit better. NOTE: Don’t forget to check the warranty of your garments and gadgets before modifying them.
6
Invest in a vest A reinforced down vest or jacket has become a well-known favorite when it’s cold outside. And it’s easy to see why: These vests are very warm for their weight. They also make great insulating layers on the ski slopes, hiking or cycling, still permitting air flow under the arms when you’re exerting yourself. They are also useful for day-today commuting, where you can wear one under your coat or cloak on the way to and from the office in the city.
7
Find a versatile backpack Today, backpacks are available to suit many activities. Try finding a model with features that suit your exact mix of needs so you can use it at the gym, the office, on weekend day trips and on the ski slopes. Are there any details missing, such as straps to attach your skis? Many outdoor stores have a wide range of straps, elastic cords and more, and maybe even a workshop to help set it up. If not, your local tailor may be able to help (again, remember to check your warranty).
8
Use reusable items! “Take away” has many advantages, but also a big disadvantage: The amount of material that is used once and then discarded. The jacket, thermos and lunch box are the cornerstones of outdoor life. Make it a habit to carry the same items in your everyday life. More and more cafés now offer discounts if you bring your own coffee cup. At first, asking the restaurant to put your meal in a takeaway box may seem like a bit of a hassle. But if everyone did this, the restaurant would save a lot of money every year and produce less waste.
9
One water bottle is enough If you buy a sturdy water bottle, you will never need another one. Remember that the opening should be wide enough to be easily filled in a stream. Then you can also store electronics in it (empty first, of course) while canoeing or wading across a river. And then there’s one trick that any cold-weather camper should know: Warm up your sleeping bag in the evening by tucking the bottle into it, filled with hot water.
10
Put on boots for hiking and everyday use Some people find hiking boots needed for a long Alpine hike to be a bit clumsy in the city. But if you’re one of the many people who mainly do day hikes in the forest or mountains, a more flexible and lightweight pair of hiking boots may be enough. These are particularly good in winters where rain, sleet and snow are common. Many outdoor shoe manufacturers have also realized that design, shape, and color are all important to their users, and have therefore developed durable and comfortable models with a more urban look. suston – 55
2024 Save the date June 03–05, 2024
ispo.com/ outdoor 56 – suston
Voices From the Show ISPO Munich is one of the best global networking and education platforms the industry has to offer for the sustainability-minded. Four experts share their hopes and expectations for the show. LENA HAUSHOFER, EXHIBITION DIRECTOR, ISPO How do you see ISPO Munich’s role driving sustainability within the industry?
ISPO Munich plays a crucial role promoting sustainability by serving as a platform for brands, manufacturers, retailers and innovators to showcase lower-impact products and practices. Through exhibitions, conferences, and networking opportunities, ISPO Munich fosters collaboration and knowledge-sharing, driving the adoption of sustainable solutions and inspiring positive change.
ADRIAN HUBER, HEAD OF CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY, MAMMUT: What sustainability themes will you be presenting at this year’s trade show??
We are committed to creating positive change in the outdoor industry by following our climate strategy “do our best, remove the rest.” This means reducing our emissions, but we also acknowledge that some are unavoidable. That’s why we invest in carbon removal technologies to take out these emissions from the atmosphere. At ISPO, we share our vision for carbon removal and collaboration with partners like Klimate.co and Climeworks, whose solutions help us towards net-zero.
KIM SCHOLZE, CHIEF MARKETING AND SALES OFFICER, SYMPATEX From your perspective as an ingredient brand, what are the main benefits of attending ISPO?
We are more than a membrane – by asking questions, we enhance our portfolio while developing the perfect tools (apart from high performance and eco-responsibility). This is our why for trade shows: We support, apart from ISPO of course OutDoor by ISPO, A&A, Linea Pelle, Performance Days and Functional Fabric Fair, just to name a few. For all partnerships we love meeting in person, seeing each other’s eyes and feeling energy – as an ingredient, this is our highest potential for partnerships.
JANE TURNBULL, SUSTAINABILITY PROJECT MANAGER, EUROPEAN OUTDOOR GROUP How does ISPO Munich serve as a platform for EOG to provide services to its members?
For the EOG, ISPO and OutDoor by ISPO have always played a key role in our ability to connect with both our members, the sustainability community and many others. The shows remain the best opportunity to share product, stories and information and this is as true for our members as for the EOG itself. For the first time, the EOG will have its own stage and we are incredibly excited to further develop the great opportunity the show offers us to connect with our members and beyond.
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performancedays.com
THE SUSTAINABLE FAIR FOR FUNCTIONAL FABRICS & ACCESSORIES
! w o n t e k ic T e e r f r u o y Get PERFORMANCEDAYS
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Experience sourcing at its best.
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MARCH 20-21, 2024 MUNICH & ONLINE
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EVENT CALENDAR
Sustainability Events at ISPO Munich Education, workshops, panels and networking - here’s a select overview for the sustainability crowd. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 28 10:00 – 12:00
PFAS Round Table With: Phil Patterson, MD, Colour Connections Textile Consultancy, Jan Beringer, Senior Scientific Expert, Hohenstein Group Location: EOG Conference Room A31/A32 (First floor above hall A3)
11:00 – 12:00
Sustainability Hub Guided Tour This day joined by Suston’s Editor-in-chief Gabriel telling about Solution Journalism. Location: Hall 1, Sustainability Hub
11:00 – 11:30
Single Use Plastics Project: Relaunch With: Verity Hardy, Sustainability Project Manager, European Outdoor Group Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
11:30 – 12:30
Building the EU Circularity Ecosystem With: Theresa McKenny, Director of Sustainability at NEMO Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
12:30 – 13:00
EOG CSR and Sustainability Update With: Katy Stevens, Head of CSR & Sustainability, European Outdoor Group Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
13:00 – 14:00
Natural Rubber – Responsible sourcing from Forest to Retail With: Sean Nyquist, Rubber Lead at FSC; Dr. Antje Ahrends, Head of Genetics & Conservation, Royal Botanic Garden of Edinburgh; Maiprae Loyen, Managing Director at AGRIAC, David Ekelund, coFounder and co-CEO at Icebug Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
14:00 – 14:30
Sustainable Apparel Coalition; Lottie Watkinson, Social Labour Convergence Program; Jason Mandels, Fair Wear Foundation Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
Coordinator, Four Paws Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 29
With: Gabriel Arthur, Editor-inChief, Suston Magazine & CEO, NORR Agency. (Moderator) Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
07:30 – 09:00
Industry Breakfast / Growing Change: Collaborations to Keep Ancient Forests out of Supply Chains Speaker: Cait Green, Senior Corporate Campaigner, Canopy
Location: CSR HUB 09:10 – 10:00
Next Generation Materials Showcase – An Expert’s Perspective With: Alexa Dehmel, Sports Clothing Design & Functional Material Consultancy Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
10:00 – 10:30
Advancing climate action with science-based data: the case of Salomon hardgoods LCA With: Marie-Laure Piednoir; Global Sustainability & Impact Director, Solomon Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
Q&A session for EOG:BSI Sustainability Data Exchange Project With: Scott Nelson, Director of Operations, European Outdoor Group Location: BSI Booth, Hall A1 152
11:00 – 12:00
15.45 – 16.30
Sustainable Change for Animals & the Planet With: Rebecca Picallo Gil, Textiles Campaigner and Mobilisation
Synergies and Leverages in the Social and Labour Space With: Carolina Van Loenen,
17:00 – 17:45
Suston Magazine Panel: Creating great collaborations – success factors and pitfalls
17:30 – 18.30
Sustainability Sundowner All the best sustainability projects are the result of collaboration, so come and join us to network with your peers and industry stakeholders at the Sustainability Sundowner. Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
EVERY DAY: 11:00 – 12:00
Sustainability Hub Guided Tour Location: Hall 1, Sustainability Hub
For the full sustainability program, visit Suston’s website here.
Protect Our Winters – Manifesto and Strategy Update With: Dan Yates, Director of Partnerships and Initiatives, POW Location: EOG Stage, Hall A1 244
13:00 – 14:00
Sign up for the Suston Monthly!
Besides the Summer and Fall print issues of Suston Magazine, we also publish one of the most popular newsletters within the outdoor industry: The Suston Monthly. Each month, you will receive our stories, knowhow, inspiration, as well as best practices from our Suston Partners. Sign up and read more articles and guides at: sustonmagazine.com
NEXT PRINT ISSUE: Spring/Summer 2024 Over-production bad for economy, worse for the environment. Can it be avoided? Published before OutDoor by ISPO.
suston – 59
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