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Wanderings
BY TENDANCES & CO
Welcome to a new issue of Wanderings by Tendances & Co — brought to you by the Nord Littoral group.
Only 34 kilometres – a mere 18.6 miles – separate England from the Côte d’Opale, yet it often feels like another world. Here, time slows down to the rhythm of sea breezes, cobbled squares, and café terraces. This edition is your invitation to step across the water and rediscover the quiet pleasures of northern France, with its charming towns, coastal walks, festive traditions, and, of course, the irresistible art of French living.
From Christmas markets glowing under fairy lights to winter feasts where local chefs celebrate land and sea, the season offers endless reasons to wander. Whether you’re visiting for a day, a weekend escape, or a longer stay, you’ll find that warmth, flavour, and a sense of welcome await you at every turn.
So pour yourself a cup of tea (or perhaps a glass of Côte d’Opale bubbly), settle in, and let this issue guide your next adventure.
Bienvenue, and happy wandering!
Le Varan: Calais Welcomes a New Urban Monster 4
Enduropale 2026: Motorbikes, Sand, and the Spirit of Le Touquet 21
Contents
Christmas Magic in Arras: Discover One of Northern France’s Most Beloved Holiday Markets 8
The Château d’Hardelot Reopens to the Public 22-23
La Coupole, between History and Science 10-11
Jean-Francois Duquene
Five Highlights from the Gothiques Exhibition at the Louvre-Lens 12-13
Tax-Free Shopping: A Bargain for British Shoppers 26
A Family Vintage Ahead of Its Time 30
Editor : Eric Lepers - Commercial Director : Jérôme Dimarcq - Words : Géraldine John & Jean-François Duquene
Design and Production: Studio Groupe Nord Littoral - Advertising : Groupe Nord Littoral
Reproduction of this magazine in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited. A Groupe Nord Littoral publication, 91 boulevard Jacquard, 62100 Calais. T.: +33 (0)3 21 19 12 12 Printed by SIB - Boulogne-sur-Mer
Byhet
Urban Art
Le Varan: CALAIS WELCOMES A NEW URBAN MONSTER
Calais and its giants go way back. Since 1994 and the arrival of the spectacular creations of Royal de Luxe, the city has developed a close relationship with urban street theatre. In 2019, the Compagnie du Dragon took over, introducing a fantastic new bestiary. Since then, the Dragon de Calais has become a familiar and much-loved figure, delighting visitors from near and far—and occasionally startling a few.
Now, there’s a new creature in town. After making its debut in early November alongside the Dragon and the mysterious Gardienne des Ténèbres, the Varan de Voyage is ready to take to the streets of Calais this December. Twenty-five lucky riders at a time will climb onto its back and join it on its city strolls.
Two pilots to steer the beast
This isn’t your average sightseeing tour. The Varan is an impressive mechanical animal: 14.8 metres long, 5.8 metres tall, and weighing 22 tonnes. It moves at a stately pace—about 7 km/h—thanks to two trained operators who bring it to life and guide it through the city.
A new member of the magical bestiary imagined by street theatre company La Machine, the Varan de Voyage has been roaming the streets of Calais since November. You might not be able to tame it, but you can certainly explore the city from its back.
Made from Accoya wood (chosen for its resistance to sea air), metal, leather and fabric, the creature’s design is inspired by the Australian perentie monitor lizard. Its cream-and-black colouring is a deliberate nod to Calais lace.
Dragons,
Varans, and other chimera
Whether you’ve already had your ride or you’re still waiting for your turn, the free exhibition Dragon, Varan et Chimères is open to the public until 1 March 2026. You’ll find it at Fort Risban, open Tuesday to Sunday, from 2pm to 6pm.
The route begins at the Logis du Major, winds its way outdoors along the fort’s ramparts, and finishes in the Poudrière. The main entrance is at the foot of the fort, just a short stroll from the beach and the headquarters of the Compagnie du Dragon.
Plan to spend about 90 minutes enjoying the full experience, including the breathtaking panoramic views of the city and seafront. Curious visitors can extend their walk towards the charming Courgain Maritime district or down to Calais beach, just a few steps away.
From 29 November 2025 to 5 January 2026, Dunkirk celebrates Christmas in style. The market’s chalets will be set up on Place JeanBart, alongside the return of the traditional funfair, the largest winter fair in France, first held here in 1884! Children can meet Santa in his house and explore the Christmas castle, lovingly built each year by the town teams. Elves will once again take over the Town Hall from 30 November, and both the Ferris wheel and ice rink will be back to make the holidays truly magical.
STEENWERCK
1,000 nativity scenes on display
A weekend not to be missed, known for its warm and friendly atmosphere. Head to the Grand’Place on Saturday 13 and Sunday 14 December, from 10 a.m., for the 32nd Christmas market in Steenwerck. Around 60 artists, artisans and traders will be there to tempt you with their creations. Don’t forget to stop by St John the Baptist Church, where the exhibition of 1,000 nativity scenes (open since mid-November) will be held — a true must-see! Free entry.
LE TOUQUET-PARIS-PLAGE
A fairy-tale parade
The Christmas lights of Le Touquet-Paris-Plage will be switched on Friday 28 November, in the gardens of the Palais des Congrès, with Santa Claus and the Jazz Band Orchestra in attendance. Festivities continue in grand style until Sunday 4 January 2026 with a fairy-tale trail, video mapping, children’s shows, Santa’s house, chalets, rides, and more. The unmissable highlight: the Great Christmas Parade on Saturday 13 December, from 6 p.m., featuring illuminated floats, over 200 dancers, and fantastic characters through the town centre.
SAINT-OMER
A gourmet Christmas
Celebrate Christmas in Saint-Omer from 28 November 2025 to 1 January 2026. Local artisans will set up their chalets on Place Foch and Place Victor-Hugo, offering perfect gift ideas for your loved ones. Expect animations, rides and sparkling lights, and of course, the Ferris wheel! Don’t miss the Gourmet Walk on Saturday 13 December, part of the 9th edition of the “Saison Merveilleuse” by the local tourist office. Starting at 3 p.m., this 90-minute stroll combines discovery and tasting of festive treats during the market. Meet at the cathedral car park in Saint-Omer. Tickets €10 per person. More info: tourisme-saintomer.com
ARRAS
The biggest Christmas market north of Paris
The Arras Christmas Village opens its doors from 28 November to 30 December. Once again this year, it remains the largest Christmas market north of Paris, with 150 chalets — ten more than last year! Visitors can stroll across the iconic Grand’Place, where they’ll find the ice rink, Christmas tree and Ferris wheel, but also wander through the Place des Héros, glowing with lights, Place d’Ipswich with Santa’s house, and the Theatre and Wetz-d’Amain squares. The opening weekend and St Nicholas’ Day will be highlights packed with events. Parades now take place on Wednesdays rather than Sundays. New this year: you can buy the official poster for the 36th edition and have it signed on 5 December by illustrator Matthieu Prudhomme, from the Wim’ agency.
BÉTHUNE
Magic in the heart of town
A month of festive cheer is coming! The Béthune Christmas City runs from 28 November to 28 December. Set in the heart of the Grand’Place, against the backdrop of the belfry, visitors can wander among the chalets in a magical festive setting. The Ferris wheel is back — and this year, the ice rink is replaced by a roller disco rink for some impressive spins! Don’t miss Christmas Eve, when Santa abseils down the belfry at nightfall.
GRAVELINES
A winter wonderland
The Gravelines Christmas market is one of the most beautiful on the Opal Coast. From 6 to 28 December, 86 exhibitors will offer local gourmet products and artisan gifts, perfect for your festive shopping! Alongside the market, enjoy the return of the Ferris wheel, the Christmas farm, and a host of special events: the opening ceremony on Saturday 6 December, at 5.30 p.m., featuring Liane Foly; a tartiflette evening on Friday 12 December from 7 p.m.; Santa’s descent from the belfry on Sunday 21 December, at 5.30 p.m.; the legendary parade on Friday 26 December at 5.30 p.m., and a fireworks finale on Saturday 27 December, at 7 p.m.
BRUAY-LA-BUISSIÈRE
Two magical weeks
The Bruay-la-Buissière Christmas market takes place on Place Henri-Cadot, opposite the town hall, from Friday 5 to Sunday 21 December. The opening ceremony will be held on 5 December at 6 p.m. Among the many highlights: the famous Christmas parade on Saturday 13 December, at 6 p.m., winding through the town centre, and Santa’s descent with fireworks and chocolate giveaways on Tuesday 23 December, also at 6 p.m. Throughout the two weeks, children and adults alike can enjoy the ice rink, funfair rides, shows, and photo ops with Santa.
LENS
Packed with Christmas cheer
Lens celebrates Christmas right through to Wednesday 31 December. The opening ceremony takes place on Friday 5 December, around 5 p.m., with the launch of the Christmas lights and the troupes from the Sainte-Barbe Festival. The Christmas Village, on the town hall square, will host about 20 chalets from 5 to 24 December, alongside rides and an ice rink. A magical day awaits on Tuesday 23 December with the “Sing Disney” karaoke show at 5.30 p.m. in front of the Town Hall, followed by Santa’s descent from St-Léger Church at 6.15 p.m.
WIMEREUX
Christmas market in the salons and gardens of Baie Saint-Jean, rue Sainte Adrienne
From 19 to 21 December, the Christmas Village will whisk you away into a festive wonderland, with wooden chalets, twinkling lights, and fun for all ages. Enjoy the ice rink, market stalls, meet Santa, enjoy street performances featuring giant Mother Christmases, Nutcrackers on stilts, and musicians — something for everyone!
Christmas Magic in Arras: DISCOVER ONE OF NORTHERN FRANCE’S MOST BELOVED HOLIDAY MARKETS
Each year, the historic heart of Arras transforms into a full-scale Christmas village — and the 2025 edition promises to be more magical than ever. From 28 November to 30 December, the 36th annual Arras Christmas Market will take over both the Grand’Place and the Place des Héros, with more than 140 beautifully decorated and illuminated chalets.
Visitors will find a wide range of artisan products, handcrafted decorations, local delicacies (like gingerbread, mulled wine, roasted chestnuts, and Maroilles cheese specialities), and plenty of unique gift ideas. The warm and festive atmosphere makes it a perfect outing for friends and families alike.
Festive rides and twinkling lights for all ages
Among the market’s top attractions are a 35-metrehigh Ferris wheel offering panoramic views over the baroque façades and dazzling lights, as well as a large outdoor ice rink. Children will love the merry-gorounds, the elves’ village (on Place du Théâtre), and Santa’s House (on Place d’Ipswich).
One of the most popular festive events north of Paris returns this winter. The Arras Christmas Market will enchant thousands of visitors from 28 November to 30 December 2025
Street performances, brass bands, and live entertainment will take place throughout the day and into the evening, with a particularly magical vibe after sunset. The towering 25-metre Christmas tree on Place des Héros will be the glowing centrepiece of the decorations.
With its mix of tradition, discovery, and wonder, the 2025 Arras Christmas Market is set to be one of the most unforgettable festive experiences in Hauts-deFrance. It’s the perfect way to soak up the holiday spirit in one of the region’s most charming settings.
Practical info and opening hours
Extended hours make the Arras market even more accessible: Monday to Thursday: 12pm to 8.30pm Friday: late opening until 10pm Saturday: 10am to 10pm Sunday: 10am to 8.30pm
24 December: closes early at 5pm
25 December: closed
30 December: closes at 8.30pm
Day Out
La Coupole, BETWEEN HISTORY AND SCIENCE
Have you ever dreamt of travelling in both time and space? La Coupole made it possible! Its location near the charming town of Saint-Omer and the wider Hauts-de-France region means you can pair it with nature walks, local heritage and quiet reflection.
About history
La Coupole was designed as a massive underground bunker and launch base for the V-2 rockets aimed at London. Its most striking physical feature is its immense concrete dome: roughly 77 metres in diameter, a thickness of some 5.5 metres and a tonnage around 55,000 tonnes. You’ll descend through the former tunnels and galleries, hear the echoes of wartime construction, step into the vast dome space and confront artefacts of the secret weapons programme. Its facilities have an educational role, in cooperation with the French department of Education. Not only does it play a major role in remembrance, history, and science, La Coupole also has a humanistic vocation, fostering reflection, awareness-raising, and good citizenship.
Tucked away in the rolling countryside of northern France, nestled just a short drive from Calais or Lille lies a place like no other – La Coupole. From the outside, it’s an immense concrete dome buried in the hillside. Step inside, and you’ll find yourself moving through time: from the dark, echoing tunnels of WWII to the dazzling expanse of a 3D planetarium that takes you to the edge of the Universe.
About science and discoveries
The world’s first 10K-3D planetarium offers visitors a 360° immersive experience. After being completely redesigned for use of the latest technology, the planetarium now offers visitors the chance to explore outer space in a completely new dimension.
Float among the stars, aim for the Moon on board the Saturn V rocket, or set foot on Mars!
The Planetarium offers a year-round programme of educational shows for all ages on a variety of subjects, ranging from outer space to history. With no less than 4 shows for the general public per day, each on a different subject, you are sure to find a session that matches your interests.
For the wanderer seeking depth, emotion and originality, La Couple offers more than a visit – it offers an experience. You’re not just seeing a museum; you’re walking through a place where history was literally built into the landscape, then being transported years forward to contemplate the stars.
Five Highlights FROM THE GOTHIQUES EXHIBITION AT THE LOUVRE-LENS
From 24 September to 26 January, the Louvre-Lens invites visitors on a new journey through time. Discover an exploration of Gothic worlds from the 12th to the 21st century, from soaring cathedrals to contemporary counter-culture. Here are five remarkable works you won’t want to miss.
The Gothic world isn’t just about cathedrals. Since the 12th century, the movement has shaped art in countless ways and “inspired exceptional forms of artistic expression,” explains Gothiques curator and Louvre-Lens director Annabelle Ténèze. Among the 250 works and installations on display,
here are five that are sure to surprise.
Spot the intruder
Annabelle Ténèze, the exhibition’s curator and museum director, loves to surprise visitors — like with this Altarpiece of the Nativity dating from…
2024. Only a sharp eye might notice the odd one out among the medieval works.
With this triptych, Malo Chapuy, born in 1995, reimagines the birth of Christ. Like a medieval copyist, he reproduces the old masters’ techniques down to crafting the wooden frame himself, creating a perfect illusion. The work blends references to early Italian and Flemish painting with touches of mid-20th-century Brutalist architecture.
The vanished Visigoths
At the far end of the medieval galleries, the cathedral’s apse (where Wim Delvoye’s stainedglass is displayed) brings together every era and asks: Gothic in colour or in black and white?
For her triptych The Sack of Rome by the Goths, Agathe Pitié chose colour. To “exorcise war,” she rewrites history, erasing the Visigoths and replacing them with an army dressed in black fishnet, adorned with studs, chains and piercings, sporting spiked hair. The result, rich in humour and hidden references, took 1,500 hours of meticulous research and creation.
A local masterpiece
Perhaps less surprising but no less captivating: the Angels of Saudemont, described by Louvre curator Florian Meunier as “a masterpiece from the late 13th century.”
This local treasure — named after a village near Arras — consists of two gilded and silvered wooden statues, rediscovered in a chapel in 1958. They once belonged to Arras Cathedral, destroyed during the Revolution.
“Curly hair framing a softly smiling face, a silhouette drawn as if in motion through a slight sway of the
hips and a cupped drapery — these traits link the statues to Parisian production around 1270,” notes the exhibition catalogue.
Wim Delvoye’s lace-like sculptures
Even before stepping into the exhibition, visitors are greeted by a Wim Delvoye masterpiece in the museum’s entrance hall: the Gothic Bulldozer, somewhere between construction machinery and cathedral.
Made of stainless steel, the sculpture is composed of thousands of laser-cut pieces assembled into a striking whole. Delvoye draws on “buttresses, pointed arches, sinuous lines, curves and countercurves characteristic of flamboyant Gothic style,” explains the catalogue. Inside the exhibition, smaller works continue this dialogue — including a Twisted Dump Truck, equal parts industrial and divine.
The cabinet of curiosities
Gothiques also features a neo-Gothic “period room”, a reconstructed 19th-century interior complete with perfectly preserved solid-walnut furniture. On the other side of the wall, in contrast, stands a modern Gothic bedroom — the personal cabinet of curiosities of Christine and Thérèse Lipinski, two museum staffers and key figures of the Goth scene in northern France.
Inside are “a few unusual things,” the twin sisters admit with a smile: a collection of ex-voto (religious offerings), along with objects linked to life and death, alchemy, and surgery. A selection of musical, visual, and literary references rounds out this immersive experience.
Gothiques, from 24 September 2025 to 26 January 2026. Full price: £12, 18-25 years old: £6, under 18s: free.
What began centuries ago as popular festivities has become a vibrant tradition. Proof that in Dunkirk, the past still sings, shouts, and dances.
Although the Dunkirk Carnival dates back a long way, don’t expect to find a caveman at the origin of the first stone-throwing. We have to go back to Roman times to find the first traces of popular festivals that enlivened Europe.
It is difficult to pinpoint the precise origin of the carnival tradition, but experts agree that the first milestone was reached in the 17th century, when groups of fishermen took some time off to enjoy themselves before setting off for Iceland to find fish. A six-month expedition – with all the dangers of the high seas – deserved a little celebration.
At the time, part of the sailors’ wages were paid in advance to their families – in case of misfortune – and the shipowners organised the ‘Foye’, a festival that allowed the fishermen to enjoy themselves before setting sail. This ‘Foye’ became ‘Visschersbende’ (a band of fishermen in Flemish), an event held between Shrove Monday and Ash Wednesday. These three days mark the beginning of Lent. Today, the 3 Joyeuses are the remnants of this ancestral tradition.
The festival was initially held in the warmth of an inn, but the sailors soon took to the streets and began dressing up to parade and sing. The first record of a parade of masked people dates back to early 1676. In 1709, there is mention of a Dunkirk merchant who rented out masks and costumes.
Carnival-goers stronger than the law
By now, the carnival tradition seemed well established: in February 1759, the municipality of Dunkirk noted that it was no longer possible to prevent sailors and seafarers from roaming the streets of the city in masks to spend their money before heading to Iceland. During the Revolution, the Department also tried to ban the wearing of masks at carnival. But the masquelours were stronger.
Once the revolutionary period was over, the sarabande resumed for a while before disappearing at the end of the 19th century, at the same time as the heyday of deep-sea fishing came to an end. People then preferred indoor balls.
It was Mayor Alfred Dumond (elected between 1893 and 1908) who revived the tradition in 1906. Only serious historical events put the festivities on hold, such as the First World War and then the Second. It took more than that to defeat the faithful followers of Jean Bart. In 1946, the carnival and the city of Dunkirk rose from the ashes. Several societies were created: first the Corsaires in 1946, then the Acharnés (founded in 1962), who organised their first ball in 1967. More recently, it was Covid that temporarily put an end to centuries of joyful customs. But even then, “Carna” as it’s lovingly nicknamed by locals, proved to be the strongest.
From sweeping coastal cliffs to hidden marshes and storybook villages, Nord–Pas-de-Calais is full of trails that refresh the body and clear the mind.
Winter may feel long, but northern France has the cure: fresh air, wide skies, and landscapes that change with every season. Whether you’re strolling along the Deux Caps, drifting through Audomarois marshes, or climbing Mont Cassel for a panoramic view, these walks promise space, calm, and
1. The Caps
You see them everywhere, in newspapers, on TV, on social media, and in every season. That's how popular the Caps Blanc-Nez and Gris-Nez are! In winter, stalactites cover the
You'll never tire of the magnificent landscapes of the Deux Caps!
good weather and admire the English coast, just 30
How about a trip in a bacôve (traditional boat) in the Audomarois marshes? L'Indépendant
2. The Audomarois marshes
A walk in the Audomarois marshes allows you to immerse yourself in an authentic and unspoilt environment, far from the stress of everyday life. We recommend a first walk in Clairmarais. There, you will be alone with nature! Listen to the croaking of frogs and the singing of birds, watch butterflies and dragonflies flit by, hear the wind blowing through the plants and the crunch of wood underfoot, and enjoy the peace and quiet! You can continue your adventure with a boat trip. To do so, head a little further afield to the Maison du Marais in Saint-Omer, where you can breathe in the sweet scent of the vegetation and admire the spectacle of the herons. Low season: Tuesday to Sunday, 2pm to 6pm.
Mont Cassel, the highest point in Flanders, promises panoramic views and is well worth a visit! First, take the time to visit this Village Préféré des Français 2018 (France's Favourite Village 2018). Then, climb up to the public garden to discover the Cassel beech tree, which won the Tree of the Year 2022 competition. Take a moment to contemplate it, lying under its branches, and enjoy a peaceful moment! Then admire the casteelmeulen, the Cassel Mill, the equestrian statue of Marshal Foch and try to locate the towns of Nord-Pas-de-Calais thanks to the panoramic view.
On a dull day, there's nothing like a zip line ride for a good laugh at
Since 1974, the Olhain Departmental Park has offered visitors a preserved haven covering 170 hectares. It is open all year round, and you can recharge your batteries by taking the footpaths around this green setting in the heart of the departmental forest, passing by the unmissable Château d'Olhain. At the park, take a break at the top of the Belvédère. Access is free and offers a breathtaking 360° view of the Artois countryside. Looking for thrills? Take the slide (free) or zip line down 564 metres!
The view from the top of Mont Cassel allows you to locate certain towns in Nord-Pas-de-Calais.
Orlando Norie, THE SCOTSMAN WHO PAINTED THE CARNIVAL OF DUNKIRK
Among the host of artists who immortalised the Carnival of Dunkirk through the ages, Orlando Norie stands out, a painter of Scottish descent honoured by Queen Victoria.
Many artists have carried their palettes and easels through the streets of Dunkirk. Among them was a man who loved the city of Jean Bart so much that he lived and kept a pied-à-terre there even after his last breath. Orlando Norie came from a family of Scottish origin who had moved to the continent. This is why he was born in Bruges, Belgium, on 15 January 1832. He eventually settled in Dunkirk, where he spent most of his professional life. It was there that he painted numerous scenes, mainly in watercolour. Among his Scottish ancestors was a very talented painter named James Norie.
An artist appreciated by Queen Victoria
The painter is mainly known as an artist of military subjects. He is perhaps the most prolific painter of the British army in the 19th century, with some 5,000 paintings and more to his credit.
Even more astonishingly, Orlando Norie received a lifetime pension from Queen Victoria for a painting that the Queen loved very much.
Beyond their aesthetic qualities, Norie’s works are of interest to Dunkirk history buffs, particularly for everything related to the carnival and its heritage.
Thanks to his watercolours, we can perhaps attest to the presence of bagpipes in 1856 during the Reuze procession parade. Norie shows four bagpipers walking ahead of a giant.
In another work attributed to Orlando Norie in 1896, carnival-goers dance around the statue of Jean Bart. Although it was mainly in the 20th century that the famous Dunkirk corsair took pride of place in the Dunkirk carnival, Place Jean-Bart has been the rallying point for carnival-goers since the very end of the 19th century.
Orlando Norie’s grave is located in the old Dunkirk cemetery, adjacent to the Commonwealth Cemetery. Orlando Norie’s works can be admired at the Dunkirk Museum.
TRAVEL TRAVEL THE without
But not without your furry four–legged bestie in our on board Pet Lounges
The Field of the Cloth of Gold PAGEANTRY
AND POWER: A ROYAL HOUR IN PAS-DE-CALAIS
In the summer of 1520, a patch of land between the towns of Guînes and Ardres in what is now the Pas-de-Calais region of northern France became the stage for one of the most extravagant diplomatic meetings in European history.
Known as the Field of the Cloth of Gold, this 17-day encounter between King François I of France and King Henry VIII of England was a dazzling display of wealth, power, and Renaissance pageantry.
A meeting of kings
The meeting, held from 7 to 24 June 1520, was intended to strengthen ties between two long-time rivals. With tensions rising in Europe following the 1519 election of Charles V as Holy Roman Emperor, François I hoped to secure an alliance with England to counterbalance Habsburg influence. Henry VIII, though initially receptive, ultimately refused the offer and later aligned himself with Charles V, making the meeting a diplomatic failure despite its grandeur.
Luxury on an unprecedented scale
The name "Field of the Cloth of Gold" comes from the lavish gold-embroidered tents and attire that defined the event. With over 6,000 attendees, the royal courts competed in a festival of opulence. Jousting tournaments, banquets, fireworks, and musical performances filled the days. Each monarch sought to outshine the other:
François I erected a massive tent featuring a statue of St Michael slaying the dragon.
Henry VIII constructed an elaborate temporary castle made of wood, canvas, and glass. Both sides had wine fountains, of course.
The atmosphere was one of mutual admiration and theatrical rivalry, capturing the very spirit of Renaissance diplomacy.
The Field of the Cloth of Gold is depicted in Hampton Court Palace in London. The original painting depicting this historic event is preserved there. This work, dating
from the 16th century, is an anonymous painting produced by several hands. The original painting at Hampton Court Palace is an important historical source that provides a detailed illustration of the meeting between Francis I and Henry VIII in 1520. It depicts the sumptuous pavilions, the festivities and the general atmosphere of this major diplomatic event.
Visiting the site today
While little remains of the temporary structures that once covered the fields near Guînes and Ardres, the area still holds historical importance and offers visitors a chance to connect with this extraordinary episode of royal showmanship.
The town of Guînes, close to Calais, provides a good base for exploring the region. Though the exact site is now farmland, its peaceful rural setting allows visitors to imagine the scale of the gathering. Interpretive panels and local museums, such as the Tour de l’Horloge, sometimes commemorate the event, especially during anniversaries.
Alternatively, if you are in Calais, head over to the cathedral and its Tudor garden modelled on Hampton Court Palace. It boasts a wine fountain replica from the painting that the local historical and heritage association researched and had built by students at the local technical college.
Winter Sports
Enduropale 2026: MOTORBIKES, SAND, AND THE SPIRIT OF LE TOUQUET
A true institution in the Hauts-de-France region, the Enduropale du Touquet marks its 50th edition in 2026. Sand, speed, engines and the roar of the crowd, each race feels familiar, yet each one writes a different story.
One year, a rider is in the spotlight; the next, a mechanical glitch knocks them out of the running. Weather can upend the best-laid plans. A newcomer can bring down a favourite. Stars are born, mistakes are made, and risk is always part of the deal. Over the past three editions, British rider Todd Kellett has mastered the chaos, winning in 2023, 2024 and 2025.
The race, set in a natural environment, depends heavily on tides and weather. In 2026, high tidal coefficients early in the year left organisers with just one viable option: the weekend of 13–15 February. These dates ensure a high-level competition in safe conditions.
In preparation, registrations opened in late September 2025 and were instantly overwhelmed. Within minutes, all slots for Sunday’s main race
For thrill-seekers and fans of beautiful machines, Le Touquet is the place to be in February, as the legendary Enduropale celebrates its 50th edition.
and the Vintage Enduropale were snapped up. In total:1,300 riders for the Enduropale, 700 for the Vintage, 125 in the Espoir category, 220 Juniors and 420 Quads.
A historic edition and a world championship
To mark this milestone edition, organisers are planning special tributes to the champions who have shaped Enduropale’s history. Their names and victories will be celebrated, bringing five decades of motorsport memories back to life on the sands of Le Touquet.
Even more remarkable: for the first time, the Enduropale will serve as the final stage of the World Championship. It will not only crown the world champion of off-road racing, but also the French champion, closing out the FFM French Sand Racing Championship (CFS).
This dual distinction raises the profile of the Enduropale even further, turning it into a key international event and reinforcing Le Touquet’s status as a must-visit destination for motorsport fans.
Restored to its former splendour, this 19th-century neo-Tudor manor brings renewed vitality to the Entente Cordiale centre.
“We missed it,” says Éric Gendron, the site’s director. “This château is an integral part of who we are, it’s our showcase. Without this manor, which tells the story of relations between France and England, our entire cultural programme would lose its meaning. This reopening feels like a rebirth, for the public as much as for our teams.”
Indeed, the château has always drawn curious visitors, eager to know what lay behind its closed doors. The Centre culturel de l’Entente Cordiale and its rehabilitated manor first opened in 2009, with the permanent exhibition as we know it today following in 2014.
After nearly two years of closure, the Château d’Hardelot is welcoming visitors once again with a newly restored roof and a refreshed museography. A much-anticipated return for this emblematic site of the Entente Cordiale.
A journey back through time
The château has been restored as faithfully as possible, within the budgetary limits of the Department.
“The furniture is very eclectic from one room to another,” explains Camille Lanciaux, curator of the collections. “In the 19th century, aristocratic homes often mixed styles and eras — that’s what we wanted to recreate.”
Most of the furniture comes from national collections, with a few original pieces belonging to the château. Each item serves as a narrative thread, allowing guides to connect the manor’s story across the centuries.
The visit takes you on a chronological journey from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. It begins
in the billiard room, the 19th-century equivalent of a grand reception hall, where mediators evoke the château’s past owners, including John Whitley, founder of the seaside resorts of Le Touquet and Hardelot.
Next comes the smoking room, a quintessentially English space with dark wood panelling and a hushed, masculine atmosphere. Here, visitors discover the world of the 19th-century British aristocracy and, through neo-Gothic decorative elements, take a leap back to medieval times.
The salon, its feminine counterpart, displays neo-Renaissance furniture, setting the scene for discussions on England’s 17th-century revolution and the execution of King Charles I.
A house of history and friendship In the magnificent dining room, the focus shifts
to the Second Empire and the growing friendship between France and Britain, a relationship nurtured by royal and imperial families alike, culminating in the signing of the Entente Cordiale in 1904.
The library celebrates great figures of British culture, from Sarah Bernhardt and Walter Scott to Charles Dickens and Guy d’Hardelot, the French composer (and woman) behind the famous song Because.
Finally, at the top of the manor, the cabinet of curiosities of Abbé Bouly, the château’s last owner, has undergone the most striking transformation. Its new decor features warmer tones, fewer taxidermy pieces, and new furnishings including a stunning roll-top desk that gives the room a refined, timeless character.
Cheese Before the Turkey? A FRENCH TWIST ON CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS
In northern France, master affineur Romain Olivier suggests shaking up your festive meal by serving the cheese platter not after dinner — but as the apéritif.
British travellers may raise an eyebrow, but in France, even long-held traditions can be reimagined. For Romain Olivier of the renowned Philippe Olivier cheese shop, a Christmas cheese board enjoyed with a glass of champagne before the feast isn’t sacrilege — it’s a chance to savour flavours at their very best.
And everyone will agree on the first point: the festive cheese platter is an essential part of the
Christmas meal that should not be missed. And that’s the problem.
After the apéritif, starter and main course, our taste buds begin to become saturated, as does our stomach. ‘By serving the cheese platter with the apéritif, you can still enjoy a relatively light starter. We also address many topics, particularly food and drink pairings.
Romain Olivier, cheese refiner, nurtures his cheeses in five different cellar environments in Boulogne-sur-Mer.
‘Because if you serve the cheese platter after the meal, what you drank before and what you are going to drink afterwards will be important in determining what goes on it. Eighty per cent of the time, cheese goes better with white wines than reds. But after enjoying a bottle of red with the poultry, it’s difficult to switch back to white. And if you only serve one wine with the cheese platter, you’ll have to compose your platter around the drink,’ he explains.
With an apéritif, these questions don’t arise, and we can put together a very diverse platter that will go very well with beer, wine, champagne, whisky or even port or muscat drinkers! ‘Here, we’re more focused on the taste experience!’
An apéritif, yes, but how big should it be?
Here too, the question of how much space you want to give your cheese platter is important. ‘If this apéritif platter is effectively replacing the platter during the meal, it doesn’t necessarily need to be smaller. It can simply be a moment of sharing and, above all, bring a diversity to the tasting that can sometimes be interesting. It also eliminates peanuts or crisps, which are a little less festive,’ says the cheese maker. So, we bring back a nice crusty baguette and a few loaves of bread, and here we have an experience that is certainly unusual, but festive, where everyone helps themselves from the platter for a more convivial atmosphere!
Which cheeses should I include on my platter?
To please the whole family, aim for a festive cheese platter containing the six cheese families:
• Natural rind lactic cheeses: goat’s milk cheeses such as Charolais, Pouligny-Saint-Pierre, Chabichou du Poitou, all of which are rather delicate, but which can also be made from cow’s milk, such as Saint-Marcellin...
• Soft cheeses with a bloomy rind: Brie, Camembert, Chaource, Crémet du Cap Blanc-Nez, etc.
• Uncooked pressed cheeses: Reblochon, Saint-Nectaire, Belval, etc.
• Hard pressed cheeses: Comté, Beaufort, Emmental...
• Soft cheeses with washed rinds: Maroilles, Livarot, Pont-l’Évêque...
• Blue-veined cheeses: Roquefort, Fourme de Montbrison, Bleu de Gex, etc.
For a balanced platter, choose different types of milk and cheeses from different regions, ‘to capture the terroirs and characteristics, and a relatively wide range of flavours’. Conversely, for a platter at the end of a meal, we would prefer three or four types of cheese from the same region and terroir, with wine from the same region and terroir. ‘This will give us a range of flavours that is bound to work well,’ says Romain Olivier. On a tight budget? Opt for cow’s milk cheeses, which are more affordable than goat’s or sheep’s milk cheeses.
What about a 100% local platter?
‘For a 100% local platter, we would recommend white or lager beer rather than wine to accompany a fine Maroilles, Mimolette, Demi-Française, natural rind, matured, semi-aged or extra-aged, Bergues and a small local goat’s cheese’. What’s more, our region boasts over 600 varieties of cheese, thanks to our different terroirs... You’re sure to find something you like!
A beautiful cheese platter, perfect for Christmas drinks!
Shopping
Tax-Free Shopping: A BARGAIN FOR BRITISH SHOPPERS
Since Brexit, British visitors can now claim VAT refunds on their purchases in France. In Calais, retailers are stepping up efforts to attract deal-hungry travellers. Here's how it works at Pidou and Auchan.
Since the UK left the European Union, British and Northern Irish citizens can claim back VAT on purchases made in Calais. Stéphane Bernard, head of tax-free development at Pidou, explains: “This scheme allows visitors to benefit from a significant discount as soon as their purchases reach the threshold of €100.01. The only condition is that the goods must pass through customs unused,” he clarifies.
So purchases of wine, spirits, and other goods are eligible for tax-free shopping—unlike items consumed on the spot. “For example, if you go through customs with a watch on your wrist, it’s not eligible. You have to open it after going through customs,” he adds.
To simplify the process, two solutions are offered to customers. The first involves the SkipTax app: after creating an account, customers scan their receipts, send them to SkipTax, and receive a tax-free form (bordereau). Alternatively, Pidou staff can create
the form for customers and print it for them. “We use Global Blue, which allows shop staff to generate a form online by scanning the customer’s passport, bank card, and filling out an information sheet online, along with details of the products. We have an older customer base who aren’t always online, so this makes it easier for them,” says Stéphane Bernard.
The tax-free process ends when customers scan their forms at a PABLO terminal, located at the port or other exit points. Once the form is validated, the VAT refund becomes effective. Random customs checks may be carried out to verify that the goods are being exported as declared.
“We have a loyal British customer base who come to us regularly and make good use of this system,” says Sandrine, customer relations manager at Auchan Calais. “It’s true during every holiday period, especially in summer and in the run-up to Christmas. From the end of November, lots of English tourists come to buy alcohol here. But not only that, they also love French cheese, cured meats—like Bayonne ham—and all kinds of French products. It can even include cleaning supplies.”
Signs inform British shoppers about the scheme from the entrance of the hypermarket and at every till. “Our team members who are confident in English don’t hesitate to encourage customers to take advantage of this very easy-to-use benefit,” says Sandrine. “You just go to the central till with your receipt. We use Global Blue. If British customers are already registered, it’s very quick. If not, we register them. It’s really easy.”
L'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé. Excessive alcohol consumption is dangerous for your health, please drink responsibly.
If you’re crossing the Channel in search of local flavour, Le Spot is worth a detour. Housed within the Castelain brewery at Bénifontaine, this immersive museum traces nearly a century of brewing, blending family history, hands-on exhibits, and of course, a well-earned tasting or two.
Beer has been flowing in Bénifontaine since 1926, but Castelain’s new visitor centre, Le Spot, is all about today’s traveller. With touch-andlearn exhibits, a brewer’s garden, family-friendly surprises and weekly events, it’s the perfect stop for a cultural and culinary adventure.
‘Since the 1990s, we’ve had a small museum where our customers and tourists can learn a little more about us and our beer. But 1990 was a long time ago! Visitors’ expectations have changed, as have museum habits and concepts, with an increasing focus on touch, immersion and, of course, our
In the museum, you can touch, taste, smell...
history has also evolved over the last 30 years,’ says Nicolas Castelain, the current managing director. The museum was therefore given a facelift in 2024. ‘We really wanted visitors to be active participants in their visit,’ adds Marie Posmyk-Bossut, head of development and seminars.
You can touch, taste, learn…
The approximately one-hour tour has been designed to be educational, immersive, multimedia and sensory. You enter through a stainless steel fermenter... and are immediately taken on a journey through time: from the creation of the brewery in 1926, the stories of three generations, the passing on of this heritage, the successive crises, but also the great successes and innovations!
Did you know that their beer, JADE, was the first organic beer in France, created in 1986? Did you also know that the water needed to produce the beer is drawn from the brewery’s basement? Legend has it that the village takes its name (bénifontaine, blessed fountain) from a blind man who miraculously regained his sight thanks to the water from the fountain!
From room to room, you can discover the tools of yesteryear and today, enter the old brewing room with its impressive copper vats, and learn about the birth of the iconic garde beer, the original Ch’ti, from 1978! You can also taste it: three tastings of galopins (or soft drinks) are included in the tour! You can touch, smell, have fun…
As a bonus, the tour ends with a discovery of the brewery... in LEGO®. A creation designed by the Ch’ti Lug association. And, on sunny days, the public can frolic in the brewer’s garden, a green interlude to discover the raw materials in their natural state: hops, wheat, barley, aromatic herbs... Children are also given a small booklet to accompany them throughout the tour.
Weekly events
This is a tour not to be missed, especially as the brewery will be celebrating its centenary next year! Want to go further? At least once a week, Le Spot organises an event in its taproom: tasting workshops, aperitifs, open-air café, beer yoga, gourmet hikes, food trucks, culinary events, quizzes, match broadcasts... A kind of village square where people can meet, chat and have fun!
Free admission. Tours depart every hour, by reservation. Opening hours: Wednesday and Thursday from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. and from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Prices: £10 including the tour and three tastings; £7 for 8-18 year olds, free for under 8s.
Le Spot is located within the Castelain brewery in Bénifontaine.
The impressive copper vats.
Food & drink A Family Vintage AHEAD OF ITS TIME
The Ferme du Nortbert, which has been producing wine since 2021 in the village of Mentque-Nortbécourt, has just wrapped up its 2025 harvest a full two weeks early. Laughter, teamwork, and family spirit filled the vines as the last clusters were cut.
Winegrowers have nature to thank this year — a gentle spring followed by a warm summer brought the grapes to ripeness ahead of schedule. “This early harvest is a good thing for us,” smiles Éric Bouin, who runs the Ferme du Nortbert. A few years ago, the family’s oil mill added another string to its bow by launching its own vineyard. This season marks the third harvest from their vines.
On the final weekend of picking, around fifteen people rose early, heading for the rows of vines by 8 a.m. After the Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, they finished with Pinot Noir, “three emblematic Champagne grape varieties,” says Éric. Friends, neighbours, relatives, everyone joins in. Éric’s daughter Agathe has been helping with her sister since the very first harvests. The rule is simple: leave the green grapes on the vine, remove the spoiled ones, and keep only the best. Quality starts with careful sorting. Her brother Antoine, who works in the wine cellar, insists on hand-picking. “We wanted to do it this
way, it lets us sort properly and makes for better wine,” he explains.
Taking time to savour it all
Next to Agathe, Paul, a first-time picker from Saint-Omer, beams. “It’s my first harvest and it’s a delight. You get to enjoy the countryside.” He’s in no rush. “We’re not here to race, we’re here to enjoy the landscape and this beautiful terroir.”
And that’s exactly the point. Between rows, amid laughter and the soft rhythm of shears snipping, the harvest feels less like labour and more like celebration. After an hour or so of picking and sorting, everyone heads down for coffee and breakfast together. Grey skies threaten rain, but spirits stay bright. There’s still work to be done, and no one’s complaining.
Like many here, he plans to return next year — drawn by the mix of good company, fresh air, and hearty shared meals that make the Ferme du Nortbert harvest so special.
In the heart of Nord and Pas-de-Calais, the humble waffle is anything but ordinary. Here, it’s a symbol of family tradition, festive indulgence, and age-old rivalry — crisp and buttery strinj on one side, soft and filled gaufres fourrées on the other. Whether served with coffee on a quiet winter morning or melting with brown sugar on a summer market stroll, these waffles are woven into the region’s culinary soul.
In Nord Pas-de-Calais, there are two opposing camps, lovers of dry waffles and those addicted to waffles filled with brown sugar. In the past, they were all homemade, but today, we let professionals prepare whilst we have the (difficult) job of savouring these wonderful waffles. Strinj, or small dry waffle, is a northern delicacy that is still very popular. These small, thin, round, pure butter biscuits are crunchy and go well with coffee. This biscuit has even found its place in family traditions, as it is customary to offer them to wish people a happy new year. It was a tradition that was widely observed in families. But waffles took a long time to prepare and were tedious to cook, especially when the waffle iron
was still passed over the fire. As a result, the homemade dry waffle has fallen by the wayside.
A hundred-year-old strinj…
But the pastry chefs of the Nord region have not given up the fight. And many continue to make them, some for nearly 120 years. This is the case of the Biscuiterie La Dunkerquoise, which, as its name does not indicate, is located in Bergues, a town South of Dunkirk. Keen to keep the good old recipes of yesteryear, the biscuit factory has nevertheless developed different varieties, but the rum waffle is ‘one of the factory’s bestsellers’, emphasises Lucie Cool, deputy sales manager. They are also available in salted butter caramel, apple/cinnamon or lemon/ginger flavours. Savoury varieties also exist.
…Versus the ‘gaufre fourrée’
This is the other version of the waffle that is all the rage in Nord and Pas-de-Calais: the filled waffle, ‘gaufre fourrée’ in French. The texture of the biscuit is softer, designed to melt in the mouth. This thin waffle is filled with a layer of brown sugar or vanilla cream. Care must be taken not to overdo the filling, so as not to overpower the taste of the dough or make the waffle sickly. You’ll find this particular waffle on markets all summer (follow the smell) or in some pâtisseries, most famous of which is Méert, in Lille.
Photo
Restaurants
From Lille to Le Touquet
THE REGION’S MICHELIN STARS OF
2025
The annual Michelin star ceremony took place on 31 March 2025 in Metz, celebrating the finest in French gastronomy. For Nord and Pas-de-Calais, the event brought a double dose of pride: two new stars were awarded, highlighting the region’s rising culinary scene.
France now boasts more than 650 Michelinstarred restaurants, with ten located in Nord and Pas-de-Calais.
Among them, three have achieved the coveted two-star status : Château de Beaulieu in Busnes, La Grenouillère in La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, and Rozó in Marcq-en-Barœul, which earned its second star this year.
The region’s one-star establishments also continue to shine:
- The Pavillon at the Westminster Hotel in Le Touquet (for the 18th consecutive year)
One of the evening’s standout moments was the announcement of the Michelin Young Chef Award, presented to Valentina Giacobbe, 30, of Ginko. The young chef learned of her first Michelin star at the very same ceremony.
Born in Italy and raised in Asia, Giacobbe first earned a political science degree before training at Pierre Gagnaire’s Gaya, later refining her craft at Rozó and SOlange. Her diverse background translates beautifully into her cuisine.
The Michelin Guide praised her menu for its seasonal creativity and global influences, highlighting dishes such as peas with nettles and wild garlic hollandaise or cod with Asian flair. Her style blends plant-based preparations, Italian sensibilities, and Asian touches with finesse. Women remain underrepresented in French haute cuisine, accounting for only 7% of Michelinstarred chefs. Anne-Sophie Pic continues to be the only woman in France helming a three-starred restaurant (Pic, Valence). Giacobbe’s recognition marks a refreshing shift and a new voice in northern France’s culinary story.
Second Star for Rozó
Also turning heads was Rozó, now one of just nine French restaurants to earn a second star in 2025. Chef Diego Delbecq, named a "young talent" by Gault & Millau in 2019, shares the spotlight with pastry chef Camille Pailleau, his partner in both life and work.
Rozó first gained Michelin recognition in 2019, and has since become a regional landmark. The Guide lauds its cuisine as "creative, inspired, and delicately balanced," full of contrast and character: sauces, sharp and bitter notes, condiments, peppers, and nods to the north like endives and sugar tart.
Dishes such as Cobrieux asparagus with mint and lime, roast chicken with peas and meadowsweet sabayon, and signature plates like the "land & sea vegetables" starter or "heather honey" dessert showcase the restaurant’s unique flair.
From Le Touquet’s classic elegance to Lille’s fresh talent, the 2025 Michelin stars confirm the rich and diverse culinary spirit thriving in Nord and Pas-de-Calais.
The Nord and Pas-de-Calais is a region known for animals: the sole (sorry Dover), the Rouge Flamande cow, the Boulonnais horse and the seals who routinely sunbathe on Berck’s beach to name a few. Some towns have gone further and made animals part of their identity.
Many towns have their emblems: Lille has the fleurde-lis and the Paris coat of arms features a nave (ship). But some towns in Nord and Pas-de-Calais feature an animal. Merville has a cat, Hazebrouck has hares and Arras has rats (for a very good reason).
The cat in Merville In 1566, in the midst of religious unrest and the Revolt of the Beggars, the latter, who were Protestant, captured a cat, then a symbol of lust, witchcraft and the devil and locked it in the church tabernacle.
From then on, the inhabitants of Merville were nicknamed ‘Les Caous’, which means ‘cats’ in Picardy patois. Le ‘Caou de Merville’ is also the name of the town’s giant.
Hares in Hazebrouck
Hazebrouck was founded towards the end of the first millennium. It is located in the heart of inland Flanders and literally means ‘the marsh (brouck) of the hares (Haze)’. Its name probably originates from the fact that the monks cleared and drained the heart of a vast swampy forest in the region at the beginning of the Christian era.
The hare can be found on the town’s coat of arms, with the traditional lion of Flanders. Stone hares are also dotted about on one of the town’s roundabouts.
The rats of Arras
In the past, the ‘s’ in Arras was not pronounced. ‘Arra’ became ‘A Rats’ in popular imagery and language. Rats appeared on the official city seals from the 14th century onwards, around a lion and a fortified enclosure. They also feature in the emblems of the Bishopric of Arras, from 1331 onwards. Adopted
by the mint of Philip II of Spain in the 16th century, the image of the rat was exported and became the curious emblem of a rather mischievous city. Today you can still find three little rats on the Town Hall parapet and a few inside, made of stone or wood. They have even made their way onto the roof of the Cathedral of Our Lady of Assumption and Saint Vaast.
The rat is a household name in the heart of the town square, as the name of a restaurant (Le Petit Rat Porteur), a café (Le Rat Perché) and organisations (Les Rats d’Arras, the American football club). Taste the only ‘official’ chocolate version in Arras’ Patisserie Thibaut on the Grand Place.
