Highlights from the biggest-ever analytica Lab Africa
14 Company Focus
SUNSKIN continues to shine
22
18 Beauty Biotech
Plant biotechnology brings fasting benefits to skincare
Origin by Ocean turns the tide on invasive algae
Cellugy innovates to tackle microplastic pollution
24 Hair Care
Novel technology elevates natural oil performance
Cross-category actives: the ‘skinification’ trend
Say goodbye to bad hair days with silicones
Undisclosed benefits of Prolevium in hair care
31 Regulations & Testing
Regulatory ripple effects from Europe to SA
34 Pharma Focus/ Coatings & Equipment
Advanced quality control with compact FT-IR Technology
Continuous coating challenges traditional production methods
Heat recovery revolution cuts pharma energy waste
Precision meets performance in supplement manufacturing
42 Association News
Coschem’s KZN Supplier Day delivers innovation and networking success
28
Welcome to our exciting August edition – and our brand-new look!
After months of planning, I'm thrilled to unveil SA Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review's fresh redesign. The team and I felt it was time for a cleaner, more streamlined design that makes navigating our content effortless. We've stripped away the clutter and focused on what matters most – getting you the information you need quickly and clearly.
What's new: Our simplified layout prioritises readability, with cleaner typography and better content flow that takes you straight to the stories shaping the cosmetics and pharma industries. This month, we take a deep dive into beauty biotech to explore the stories behind new sustainable ingredients hitting the market. Using living systems like yeast, algae, bacteria or plant cells, ingredient producers are developing complex molecules, which not only reduce climate impact, but also increase product efficacy. One story that stands out is the collab between Origin by Ocean and the CABB Group which focuses on processing sargassum, an invasive brown seaweed, into high-value ingredients, such as alginate, fucoidan, and biomass residue.
In our section on hair care, we explore cross category actives from Vantage which demonstrate how the skinification trend is reshaping hair care formulation. We also focus on silicones as a trusted option for addressing the unique needs of textured and processed hair, offering immediate, visible results that empower individuals to care for and style their hair with confidence.
From bans to overarching principles impacting the cosmetics industry, Europe has been quite busy over the past few months. To keep you up to date on regulatory developments Nadia Rashid, CTFA’s technical & regulatory manager, explores the movements within this space while highlighting the implications for South African cosmetics brands and manufacturers.
We’d love to hear your thoughts on our streamlined approach to content in this edition. Please send an email to abby.vorster@media24.com to share your feedback with me.
CONTRIBUTORS: Òscar Expósito, Monika Buchholz, Victoria Vidal, Ana Gallego, Sandra Ruiz, Pau Riera, Daniel Luna, Maria Mas, Marta Gibert, Laura Cano, Sara Laplana, Tarik Ruiz, Raquel Ferreira, Alejandro Guirado, Nadia Rashid
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Overnight skin rejuvenation with LunaRose
Mibelle Biochemistry’s newest launch is derived from the organic rose hips of a unique Finnish rose variety. Inspired by Finland’s extraordinary day-night cycles, LunaRose™ works by providing a melatonin-like effect to restore skin’s natural rhythm, energising and rejuvenating it overnight.
Melatonin, an essential molecule for regulating a person’s internal circadian clock, is naturally secreted by the brain at night to help induce sleep. Interestingly, melatonin can also act directly on skin. It is produced by skin cells, has strong antioxidant effects and a positive effect on the skin barrier. However, insufficient sleep, ageing and environmental factors like blue light exposure or shift work can disturb melatonin synthesis and receptor expression, leading to visible signs of skin fatigue: dryness, dullness, dark eye circles, and wrinkles.
LunaRose™ works by delivering melatonin-like effects, delivering a range of powerful benefits for the skin. It upregulates melatonin receptor expression and modulates the expression of circadian clock genes, helping to support the skin's natural day-night rhythm. Additionally, LunaRose™ provides strong antioxidant protection and strengthens the skin barrier, shielding it from environmental stressors. It also enhances mitochondrial function, which naturally declines with age, ensuring skin remains energised and resilient. This combination of effects helps to restore skin's natural balance, leaving it rejuvenated, revitalised and full of energy – overnight.
LunaRose™ is available in South Africa from Carst & Walker.
IMCD awarded EcoVadis Platinum Medal
IMCD, a global leader in specialty chemicals and ingredient distribution, has been awarded the prestigious EcoVadis Platinum Medal for Sustainability Excellence. This achievement positions IMCD within the top 1% of companies globally for sustainable business practices, reflecting a score of 84/100.
EcoVadis conducted an extensive evaluation of IMCD’s ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) performance across four critical areas:
• environment
• labour and human rights
• ethics
• sustainable procurement.
IMCD Group’s sustainability milestones include the following:
• Sustainable procurement: IMCD implemented robust practices through supplier screening and audits, aligning with initiatives like the Together for Sustainability (TfS) framework.
• Social responsibility: Valued employee development programmes such as Women in Leadership and Rising Leaders were key contributors to this recognition.
• Environmental responsibility: Integration of goals set by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) and proactive emission reduction initiatives earned commendation.
Cecile Westerhuis, group director of sustainability, says: “Receiving the EcoVadis Platinum medal is a meaningful confirmation that our efforts are paying off to embed sustainable practices into our daily operations. It reassures our business partners that IMCD meets ESG standards across all areas of business. We still have more to do, and we focus our efforts on supporting the sustainability journey of our customers and collaborating with industry partners to scale initiatives that enhance data transparency and reduce Scope 3 emissions.”
Cecile Westerhuis, IMCD’s group director of sustainability
Syensqo – a leader in sustainable guar sourcing
SGI’S KEY ACHIEVEMENTS SINCE 2015:
Expansion to 62 villages, involving over 12 300 farmers
Participation of over 3 300 women farmers
An average 2.7x increase in guar yield in an environment of constantly changing climatic conditions
Over 2x increase in farmers’ income.
Syensqo marks 10 years of championing sustainable sourcing for the beauty industry with the Sustainable Guar Initiative (SGI), empowering smallholder farmers and transforming the guar value chain in India.
SGI is a programme designed to build a self-reliant, inclusive and sustainable guar supply chain in India while meeting the beauty industry’s growing demand for ethical products. Launched in 2015, this collaborative effort –run on the ground by the NGO TechnoServe and local guar processor Hindustan Gum & Chemicals (Hichem), in partnership with leading beauty brands such as Henkel and Procter & Gamble – has significantly improved guar farming in northwest Rajasthan’s Bikaner region, setting new benchmarks for sustainable agriculture and community development.
At the heart of SGI is the guar bean, a valuable source of naturally derived polymers used in beauty products to deliver superior conditioning and thickening properties. This renewable resource powers Syensqo’s flagship brands, Naternal™ and Jaguar®, enabling cosmetic chemists to design formulations that meet performance and sustainable sourcing expectations. For example, Jaguar® C162 (SGI) is a unique ecofriendly bio-based conditioning polymer. This double-derivatised cationic guar is suitable for transparent formulations. It provides good conditioning to moderately damaged hair. When combined with plant oils, ester oils, or silicones, it can effectively address the needs of damaged to overprocessed hair. Jaguar® C162 (SGI) is now available in South Africa.
“Aligned with Syensqo’s mission to advance humanity, SGI exemplifies our company’s commitment to sustainability and ethical sourcing. By empowering farmers and fostering autonomous agricultural communities,
We invite and encourage other companies to join this initiative, amplifying its positive impact
we’re not only securing our supply chain, and that of our customers, but also meeting growing consumer demand for responsibly sourced products,” says Ilham Kadri, CEO of Syensqo. “We invite and encourage other companies to join this initiative, amplifying its positive impact.”
SGI is supported by the Syensqo Fund. It is unique in its comprehensive approach to ethical sourcing, focusing on improving agricultural practices, building farmer capacity and establishing producer cooperatives. The programme stands out due to its unique mission to create self-sustaining farming communities that can operate independently in the long term, and focuses on agronomic, economic, environmental and social impacts to address the challenges of responsible sourcing.
“SGI has had a transformative social impact on local communities. We’ve seen remarkable progress in farmer empowerment, especially among women. The programme has fostered confidence, entrepreneurship and a sense of ownership among farmers. It’s not just about improving yields, but also focuses on building resilient, self-reliant communities,” added Joydeep Dutt, country director – India, TechnoServe. “SGI’s focus on women farmers has fostered leadership opportunities, with many now taking on active roles in producer cooperatives and their communities.”
Syensqo – www.syensqo.com/en
On the Street
New products on our radar
A trusted classic reimagined
Tissue oils are enjoying a major resurgence, with the category experiencing impressive growth in both volume and value over the past year (Nielsen, Jan 2025). It’s a clear signal that South Africans are reaching for products that offer both comfort and performance, and Clere’s new Tissue Oil arrives at the right time.
Clere Tissue Oil is a new addition to the trusted Clere family. It is formulated to help improve the appearance of scars, stretch marks and dry skin, using a blend of skin-loving ingredients including vitamin E, sweet almond oil, and argan oil. While the skincare market continues to evolve, so do the needs of everyday South Africans.
“South Africans have always had a deep connection with multi-tasking skincare products, and tissue oil is a staple. With this launch, we’ve taken everything people love about Clere – trust, quality, affordability –and infused it into a product that responds to what skin needs today,” says Xolani Sibanze of Clere Tissue Oil.
Clere Tissue Oil is fast-absorbing, non-greasy and delivers visible results with consistent use. It joins the brand’s popular stable of lotions, crèmes and glycerine products.
Brighten the eyes
Catrice Under Eye Brightener Setting Powder is a lightweight, skin-loving formula designed to lift and illuminate the most delicate part of your complexion! It has a soft, weightless feel that melts seamlessly into skin without settling into fine lines or leaving a heavy, cakey finish. It offers just the right amount of luminosity to brighten up shadows and dullness under the eyes, making the whole complexion look fresher and more vibrant.
What truly sets this powder apart from the competition is its formula. It’s infused with squalane, a deeply hydrating ingredient that helps maintain moisture levels. The setting powder comes in four versatile shades. Like all Catrice products, this powder is created with clean beauty standards in mind.
Skincare that honours skin
SOiL Organic Skincare — a clean, mindful collection crafted from certified organic ingredients and inspired by the sensory richness of aromatherapy. Rooted in the belief that where nature nurtures, your skin is gently supported, each product draws on the aromatic and conditioning power of botanicals to help maintain hydration, softness, and comfort.
From moisture-replenishing facial mists to plant-based serums made with nutrient-rich oils, this range offers natural, everyday care for face, body, and hair. With every drop, experience the glow of integrity — skincare created with transparency, purity, and purpose. Sustainably developed and ethically sourced, every formula is housed in recyclable amber glass and certified organic by ECOCERT Greenlife to the COSMOS standard.
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SEPTEMBER
PharmaConex 1 to 3 September Cairo, Egypt www.pharmaconex-exhibition.com
Propak West Africa 9 to 11 September Lagos, Nigeria www.propakwestafrica.com
Coschem Scientific Conference & Gala Dinner 10 to 11 September Joburg, South Africa www.coschem.co.za
35 th IFSCC Congress 18 to 20 September Cannes, France ifscc2025.com/en
OCTOBER
NOVEMBER
CPHI Frankfurt 28 to 30 October Frankfurt, Germany www.cphi.com/europe/ en/home.html in-cosmetics Asia 5 to 7 November Bangkok, Thailand www.in-cosmetics.com/ asia/
Beauty West Africa 25 to 27 November Lagos, Nigeria www.beautywestafrica.com
Insights from Euromonitor’s Eyes on Africa 2025
When Peter Hirst and Rubab Abdoolla of Euromonitor International took the stage for Eyes on Africa 2025, their combined expertise painted a fascinating picture of a continent on the cusp of transformation. Hirst's economic insights and Abdoolla's consumer trend analysis revealed why Sub-Saharan Africa deserves serious attention from anyone looking beyond traditional markets.
Sub-Saharan Africa is entering a transformative economic phase.
According to data analytics company Euromonitor International, the region’s real GDP is projected to double between 2024 and 2040, reaching $3.8 trillion. Its share of global GDP is expected to rise from 1.7% to 2.1%, driven by a young, fast-growing population that will reach 1.7 billion people with an average age of just 22 by 2040.
These insights were at the heart of Euromonitor’s Eyes on Africa 2025 – an exclusive client event held in Johannesburg on 24 June. The event offered a deep dive into Africa’s evolving consumer landscape and the strategic opportunities it presents for businesses in the consumer goods sector.
DIGITAL ACCESS FUELLING CONSUMER GROWTH
Urbanisation is a defining trend across SubSaharan Africa. As more people move to cities, they gain access to better-paying jobs and modern retail formats. This shift is reshaping consumption patterns and driving demand for branded and unbranded goods.
Euromonitor forecasts that consumer expenditure will double to $2.49 trillion by 2040. Digital connectivity is also accelerating. Internet penetration is expected to rise from 37% to 63%, while smartphone adoption could reach 91%. This digital leap will enable businesses to reach consumers more
A localised approach is needed to unlock regional growth. For example, prioritise urban centres with growing middle class populations, adapt products to local preferences and price sensitivities, and consider partnering with local players to navigate challenging environments.
Source: Euromonitor International
DID YOU KNOW?
Scenes from Euromonitor International's Eyes on Africa 2025 event
Successful African brands are deeply attuned to local realities
effectively, expand e-commerce, and offer tailored digital experiences. However, income growth remains uneven. Countries like Ethiopia and Côte d’Ivoire are expected to see rapid income gains, while South Africa and Nigeria may experience slower growth.
EAST AFRICA LEADS THE WAY
East Africa is set to lead SSA growth with a 6.2% CAGR, driven by economic diversity, infrastructure, and trade integration. West Africa follows, with Côte d’Ivoire standing out for its strong commodity exports.
Central Africa shows potential despite risks, while Southern Africa is expected to lag at 2.7% CAGR due to South Africa’s challenges. However, Zambia is emerging as a growth bright spot.
TARIFF RISKS AND OPPORTUNITIES
The Trump administration’s proposed tariff agenda could pose a significant risk to SubSaharan Africa’s economic trajectory. According to Euromonitor’s Macro Model, under a full implementation scenario, including a 10% blanket tariff on all countries, South Africa’s growth could dip below baseline projections despite an initial export surge in early-2025.
Conversely, a rollback of tariffs could lift growth above current expectations. These scenarios highlight the importance of regional cooperation and the economic potential of the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA) to mitigate external shocks.
STRATEGIES FOR SUSTAINABLE GROWTH IN CONSUMER MARKETS
To succeed in Africa’s dynamic markets, businesses must adopt localised, flexible and impact-driven strategies. Euromonitor’s Eyes on Africa event highlighted several key approaches:
1. Market expansion through affordability and flexibility – Affordability is crucial, but African consumers also value quality and convenience. With income cycles ranging from daily to monthly, brands are offering smaller, affordable packaging – a trend known as sachetisation. This model, once limited to food and beverages, now includes personal care and household products. Retailers like Makro are also reducing prices on essential items to support pricesensitive shoppers.
2. Rethinking retail and route-to-market strategies – Traditional retail still dominates in Sub-Saharan Africa, but modern formats are gaining traction, especially when adapted to local contexts. Jaza in Kenya exemplifies this shift by locating stores in underserved neighbourhoods, stocking local brands, and leveraging social media to build community engagement. Meanwhile, companies like Tiger Brands are expanding into informal trade through digital ordering platforms, loyalty programmes, and POS support, resulting in significant distribution and sales growth.
3. Strategic acquisitions and partnerships –As multinationals exit challenging markets, local players are stepping in. Tolaram’s acquisition of Guinness Nigeria and Bidcoro’s purchase of Suntory’s beverage brands in Kenya illustrate how mergers and acquisitions are enabling regional growth and vertical integration. These moves not
only preserve brand equity but also localise operations for better market fit.
4. Innovation with local relevance –Innovation in Africa is impact driven. Rather than focusing solely on product differentiation, companies prioritise usability and market penetration. Examples include Defy’s solar-powered fridges addressing load shedding and Truda’s launch of healthier snack options to appeal to modern retail consumers. Branding and premiumisation in fresh produce, such as Woolworths’ ‘Crunchita’ lettuce, also help producers maintain margins while appealing to qualityconscious shoppers.
5. Hyper-local, impactful marketing –Successful African brands are deeply attuned to local realities. Maybelline Nigeria’s collaboration with makeup artists and influencers, including AI-powered product discovery tools, demonstrates how hyper-local engagement can drive exponential sales. Similarly, Kellogg’s and Lactalis’ ‘Your Breakfast, Your Bowl’ campaign used data-driven targeting and omnichannel marketing to boost breakfast product sales.
TAILORED MARKETING WINS CONSUMERS
Africa offers strong growth potential, but success depends on localised strategies. Businesses must innovate affordably, build local partnerships, and tailor marketing to diverse cultures. With a young population, urban growth, and rising consumer power, Africa is a key frontier –despite trade and internal challenges. •
Euromonitor International –www.euromonitor.com
Biggest-ever analytica Lab Africa celebrates record success
Thousands of thought leaders and industry stakeholders gathered at the Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand, Johannesburg from 8 to 10 July, for the most successful edition to date of analytica Lab Africa.
Organised by Messe Muenchen India and Messe München, analytica Lab Africa is South Africa’s only trade fair for laboratory technology, analysis, biotechnology and diagnostics. Over the three days of the trade show, 138 international and local exhibitors showcased innovations across the gamut of laboratory technology, analysis and biotechnology solutions. The analytica Lab Africa Laboratory Forum hosted panel discussions, presentations and demonstrations on key issues such as digital transformation, ethics, quality assurance, the regulatory environment, and sustainable practices. Over 50% of exhibitors participated for the first time in 2025, which is indicative of the powerful opportunities this exhibition presents to
The longevity and success of analytica Lab Africa is an indication of how much it is needed
support industry growth and connect business decision makers.
analytica Lab Africa 2025, co-located with IFAT Africa, secured its highest-ever percentage of visitors this year. The colocated events attracted 7 768 visitors, with delegates travelling to South Africa from across the continent and around the world to share knowledge and discuss key issues in the sector. Both events optimise the synergies across the laboratories, science and innovation sectors and the water, sewage and waste treatment sectors.
WORLD CLASS VALUE PROPOSITION
Bhupinder Singh, president – IMEA, Messe Muenchen and CEO, Messe Muenchen India, comments: “What impressed me most about analytica Lab Africa 2025 was the clarity of purpose. Companies came not just to exhibit, but to engage in a meaningful way – with solutions, partners and the African market. You could see the shift from showcasing products to solving problems. That’s a sign of an industry moving forward.”
Susanne Grödl, exhibition director, analytica worldwide shows at Messe Muenchen, reports that the 2025 trade show was the third edition of the biennial event for the brand.
“We started in 2019, when the event was first brought to South Africa. Since then, it has grown significantly to become a real success story.”
She attributed its success to world-class thought leadership content, a vast exhibition area, and the unique opportunity it presents for industry networking.
“We had 138 exhibitors, and we were very proud to have had a huge German delegation with a pavilion and 13 exhibitors, as well pavilions from China and the UK pavilion, organised by Gambica, the specialist association for UK companies shaping the future of industrial and laboratory technologies.
Analytica, which is staged around the world, remains the world’s leading trade fair for the innovative laboratory technology and pioneering biotechnology for five decades.
Speaking at the official opening, Steve Sidney, executive director of the National Laboratory Association, said: “The longevity and success of analytica Lab Africa is an indication of how much it is needed. This kind of event offers a unique opportunity for parties to meet, network and make the right connections.”
LAB FORUM COVERS HOT TOPICS
At analytica Lab Africa’s CPD accredited Lab Forum, industry thought leaders captivated audiences with global trends, market insights, updates and discussions. The Laboratory Forum was presented by the Southern African Laboratory Diagnostics Association (SALDA), the African Society for Laboratory Medicine (ASLM) and the Society of Medical Laboratory Technology of South Africa (SMLTSA).
Sarah Cohen, executive officer of SALDA, noted: “There were many lab professionals attending the forum, and we had many robust discussions. An industry association, this has
been very positive for us. We hope to collaborate with the analytica Lab Africa team on future events. CPD points are critical for our industry in that all lab professionals need to be registered with the Health Professionals’ Council and need a minimum of 30 clinical and ethics CPD points per year. The Lab Forum with its esteemed speakers presented an opportunity for lab professionals to continue their professional development and earn CPD points at the event at no cost. This was a major drawcard for all the laboratory professionals who attended.”
Among the topics addressed were:
• IVD and diagnostics and laboratory and technology landscapes
• Lab Strengthening Systems. Panel discussions focused on:
• quality assurance practices
• training and competency
• audits and accreditation
• funding and industry roles. Several presentations also explored:
• pandemic preparedness
• the continental regulatory process for certification or listing of priority in vitro diagnostics
• partnerships and innovations for the laboratory industry
• patient care
• ethics and considerations for materials waste management
• laboratory excellence
• cleanrooms
• 3D cell culture.
Another highlight was the Lasec® Pavilion Forum Stage, which featured three days of supplier presentations on the latest innovations, technologies and solutions in the laboratory and scientific industry.
7 768 visitors from 20+ countries
• 138 exhibitors from 12 countries
Event reinforced the global prominence of the analytica trade show brand
Key Lab Forum themes included sustainability, digital transformation and excellence
UNIQUE OPPORTUNITIES FOR EXHIBITORS
A broad range of exhibitors participated in the trade show including long-time supporters and many new brands. Among them were professional industry bodies SALDA – which hosted an SME pavilion – ASLM and SMLTSA, the South African Association of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry, the South African Association for Food Science and Technology, ChromSA – a division of the South African Chemical Institute, and the National Laboratory Institute of South Africa.
On an extensive exhibition floor, leading brands and businesses including Anatech, Lasec® (silver sponsor), Merck (bronze sponsor), Metrohm, Microsep and National Separations, Monitoring and Control, Sartorius, Shimadzu, Verder Scientific and Wirsam showcased and demonstrated their latest solutions.
The German industry association for Optics, Photonics, Analytical and Medical Technologies (Spectaris) showcased German excellence in analytical, biotechnology and laboratory technology at a German Pavilion.
Jennifer Goldenstede, head of foreign trade and export promotion at Spectaris, said: “analytica Lab Africa presented a valuable opportunity to strengthen our presence in Southern Africa and gain deeper insights into this dynamic and rapidly evolving region. For us, the event is more than just a showcase – it is a strategic platform to explore new distribution channels, connect with established dealers and potential end-users, and better understand the specific application fields that are driving demand in the region.”
Shimadzu, which celebrates its 150th anniversary this year, highlighted precision instruments, measuring instruments and medical equipment.
Darryl Harris, executive vice president at Shimadzu, commented: “Coming to this event enables us to raise awareness of how long we have been in existence and the quality of our products. We caught up with existing customers and met new prospective customers in an environment conducive for networking and doing business.”
Lasec®, another long-standing industry giant which turns 80 this year, showcased groundbreaking innovations including a laboratory information management system (LIMS) partner, highlighting how AI-driven data management can enhance lab efficiency. Once considered exclusive to specialised labs, LIMS is now more accessible and essential for most laboratories. Visitors were able to experience a biotechnology-focused lab setup connected to a simulated LIMS system.
Also celebrating a milestone this year, Labotec marked its 65th anniversary by participating in analytica Lab Africa.
Dylan Groves, general manager at Verder Scientific Africa, added: “analytica Lab Africa has been a fantastic experience for us. We’ve had an array of high-quality visitors asking the right questions from various industries and met our objectives in terms of customer reach. Our customers have been clear in terms of their needs, helping us to understand their challenges and share ideas, enabling us to solve their problems.”
The next analytica Lab Africa will take place in Johannesburg in July 2027. •
analytica Lab Africa –analytica-africa.com/en/
Eighteen years ago, when André and Hanlie Burger first identified the need for quality skincare products designed specifically for children – not babies, or teenagers, but the often-overlooked ‘inbetween’ age group – they could hardly have imagined the journey that lay ahead.
Hanlie, originally a medical social worker who later shifted her focus to beauty therapy, possessed what those close to her describe as “a special gift for connecting with people, identifying their needs, and genuinely wanting to make a difference”. André, who was an engineer and visionary businessman, brought the technical expertise and forward-thinking approach that would set their company apart.
Together, they approached Professor Aubrey Parsons to develop a specialised skincare range, and SKIN KIDZ was born.
The playful and brightly coloured packaging supplied by Impress Products, coupled with the effective formulations, quickly won over consumers. What followed was more enthusiastic feedback from the market, inspiring the Burgers to launch a broader, more accessible brand called SUNSKIN sunscreen, which was formulated and developed by André.
Sadly, four years ago, the family faced an unimaginable challenge when André passed away from Covid. During a deeply emotional and transformative time, instead of allowing grief to derail SUNSKIN’s mission, Hanlie stepped into a leadership role with her characteristic determination.
SUNSKIN continues to shine
In the competitive world of South African skincare, few brands embody the spirit of resilience and innovation quite like SUNSKIN. What began as a couple’s observation about a gap in the children’s skincare market has evolved into one of the country’s leading sunscreen manufacturers. This story is a testament to the power of their vision, determination and family unity. By Abby Vorster
The original SUNSKIN range launched by André and Hanlie, with the help of Professor Aubrey Parsons
André and Hanlie Burger
Meet the SUNSKIN team
“Taking over leadership after André’s passing was not something I expected,” she reflects, “but I’ve been incredibly fortunate to have the unwavering support of our two daughters, Thalita and Chyara, as well as our loyal and dedicated staff. Together, with our passionate team, we have been able to honour André’s vision while shaping the next phase of SUNSKIN’s journey.”
FAMILY STRENGTH IN ACTION
What emerged from this transition is not a story of struggle, but one of remarkable family strength and business acumen. Thalita, the Burger’s eldest daughter, followed in André’s footsteps as an engineer whilst also qualifying as a cosmetic chemist through Coschem’s course in cosmetic science. Thalita now fulfils a critical role in product development and formulation processes. The Burger’s youngest daughter, Chyara serves as the company’s head of marketing with a strong focus on digital strategy and social media. This collaborative approach has enabled SUNSKIN to maintain its founding principle: creating skincare and sunscreens that make a real difference in people’s lives whilst educating the public about skin health.
DID YOU KNOW?
André Burger was a founding member of CECOSA, the Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa.
“From the beginning, we understood the need for products that are both effective and accessible,” Hanlie explains.
The expansion from SKIN KIDZ to SUNSKIN allowed the business to embody this principle more broadly, investing in high-quality formulations and diversifying offerings to cater to every age, skin type and demographic in South Africa.
Education has also remained a cornerstone of the business. The team works through schools and has a strong presence golf days and sports events, like the 947 Joburg Cycle Challenge, to impart knowledge on sun protection and to educate people on how to apply sun care products. It also educates skincare and beauty professionals within the salons that stock SUNSKIN products on the importance of sun protection.
“We’ve expanded our educational outreach, leveraging different platforms and channels to ensure that skin health and sun protection messages reach as many people as possible,” Hanlie explains.
We understood the need for products that are both effective and accessible
LEADING THROUGH INNOVATION
SUNSKIN’s commitment to innovation runs deep. Long before HEV (blue light) and infrared protection became popular industry topics, André’s visionary approach had already led them to focus on formulations that go beyond traditional UV protection. This foresight set SUNSKIN apart and continues to drive its product development strategy today.
SUNSKIN’s latest innovation, its neurocosmetic sunscreen, reflects how the business has remained at the forefront of emerging science in sun care and skincare, addressing physical protection and skin wellness in one solution.
The SUNSKIN UV-Derm range comprises full-spectrum protecting sunscreens. These sunscreens protect skin against UVA (ageing rays), UVB (burning rays), HEV (blue light from electronic devices), and infrared (IR-A, heat from the sun), with the addition of an anti-pollution shield. SUNSKIN also has a gender-neutral skincare range consisting of a Bakuchiol serum, gentle wash, self tan, after sun gel, body scrub, sanitising hand and nail cream, and 3-in-1 Bug Be Gone sun protection and insect repellent moisturiser. Its two ingestible collagen products, Collagen Gold Peptides and a Classic Collagen completethe offering.
One of SUNSKIN’s most popular products is the FACE Tinted Cream-Gel SPF50 Full Spectrum Sunscreen. This range of tinted sunscreens is available in eight shades to meet the needs of all skin tones from light to dark.
André Burger is remembered for his passion for science, and his kindness and humility
Anyone under the sun must wear sunscreen, and that is everyone!
PROUDLY MADE IN SOUTH AFRICA
Manufacturing independence has been crucial to SUNSKIN’s success. Since establishing its own manufacturing plant in 2012, the company has continuously upgraded equipment and processes to ensure top-quality products and efficient production. Most recently, SUNSKIN increased its manufacturing capacity to 250kg with
equipment sourced from Anderson Engineering, positioning the business well for future product launches and potential export opportunities. Plans for further investment in semiautomated filling lines and advanced formulation technologies also demonstrate SUNSKIN’s commitment to growth and innovation.
As a South African manufacturer, Hanlie says they have navigated challenges typical to local industry, such as load shedding, fluctuating raw material costs, and increasing regulatory requirements.
“We’ve strengthened our relationships with reliable suppliers, implemented backup power solutions, and streamlined production processes to stay agile and competitive,” she notes. Being able to innovate quickly and address real-time market needs are additional strengths of the business. SUNSKIN’s approach to market research is refreshingly hands-on.
Customer feedback is also used to directly shape product development. For example, requests for non-sticky, non-greasy formulations led to the launch of SUNSKIN’s popular dry-touch sunscreens.
Perhaps most importantly, SUNSKIN has made inclusivity a priority. Recognising that sun protection historically wasn’t prioritised by many South Africans with darker skin tones, Hanlie and her team have worked tirelessly to ensure everyone feels represented and cared for by their brand. SUNSKIN’s slogan captures this commitment perfectly: ‘Anyone under the sun must wear sunscreen, and that is everyone!’
PASSIONATE ABOUT SUN PROTECTION
Today, 18 years after its founding, SUNSKIN proudly operates its own manufacturing plant and produces over 42 products. The company is built to offer a more holistic skin wellness offering, expanding beyond SPF into treatments, maintenance and prevention. Investment in education – through a short video series and school programmes –alongside the exploration of expansion to neighbouring African markets demonstrates SUNSKIN’s commitment to growth with purpose.
Hanlie’s vision for SUNSKIN’s future is ambitious yet grounded: “to lead the conversation on sun protection and smart skincare in South Africa, where innovation, integrity and accessibility come together”.
This vision honours André’s legacy whilst firmly establishing an ongoing commitment to making a real difference in the South African skincare space.
“We listen closely to customers, consultants, and retail partners; attend industry congresses and maintain memberships with Coschem and CTFA to stay abreast of international research and connected to local market demands,” says Hanlie.
In an industry often driven by trends and profit margins, SUNSKIN stands as a remarkable example of how passion, education and family strength can build something truly meaningful and enduring. •
Thalita Burger and the Anderson Engineering team working together on the Factory Acceptance Test
Thalita, Hanlie and Chyara celebrate the installation of their new manufacturing equipment
FPlant biotech brings fasting benefits to skincare
The future of skin longevity meets fasting-mimicking plant biotechnology for glass skin. This technical article explores the proven benefits of Clarivine™ – a new active ingredient from Vytrus Biotech.
By Òscar Expósito, Monika Buchholz, Victoria Vidal, Ana Gallego, Sandra Ruiz, Pau Riera, Daniel Luna, Maria Mas, Marta Gibert, Laura Cano, Sara Laplana, Tarik Ruiz, Raquel Ferreira and Alejandro Guirado
asting is increasingly recognised as a powerful, science-backed physiological mechanism, garnering attention for its wideranging effects on health and longevity. A growing body of research highlights the capacity of fasting to counteract age-related decline by influencing fundamental metabolic and regenerative pathways. Specifically, fasting has been shown to enhance stem and progenitor cell activity, reduce systemic inflammation, and stimulate tissue repair – making it a compelling biological strategy for promoting resilience, repair and longevity at the cellular level.
Far from being a fleeting trend, fasting is an evolutionarily conserved response developed through natural selection. The human body, shaped by millennia of fluctuating nutrient availability, has evolved adaptive responses that do more than ensure survival – they confer regenerative benefits during periods of restriction. This ancient biological intelligence has become the foundation for a new generation of therapeutic and cosmetic strategies designed to simulate the effects of fasting without actual caloric deprivation.
Vytrus Biotech harnesses this principle through a novel cosmetic approach: the fasting-mimicking strategy. This innovation supports the emerging concept of skin longevity, which moves beyond conventional anti-ageing strategies to target biological ageing, striving to maintain skin function and aesthetic quality over time.
Scientific studies on intermittent fasting and caloric restriction have revealed the modulation of key cellular longevity pathways, including reduced insulin/IGF-1 signalling, enhanced autophagy and DNA repair, diminished chronic inflammation, and sustained telomere integrity.1-5
Applying these insights to skincare, Vytrus Biotech introduces a fasting-mimicking paradigm that activates similar protective and regenerative mechanisms in skin cells. This ushers in a new era of dermocosmetic innovation focused on sustained skin health and rejuvenation.
PLANT-INSPIRED RESILIENCE
Building on the growing scientific understanding of fasting's systemic benefits, Vytrus Biotech has pioneered an innovative approach that translates these biological insights into dermocosmetic application. The result is Clarivine™, a next-generation biotechnological active designed to replicate the cellular responses associated with fasting directly within the skin. This strategy leverages nature’s adaptive intelligence, aiming to visibly enhance skin luminosity and resilience. It also stimulates deep-rooted mechanisms of cellular renewal and longevity.
Clarivine™ acts at the intersection of aesthetic performance and biological function, targeting key markers of skin health and age-related decline. It is derived from Vitis vinifera stem cells. The common grape vine is a perennial plant species known for its regenerative potential and metabolic adaptability. Under rigorously controlled conditions, the plant stem cells are cultivated in a nutrient-restricted environment that simulates intermittent fasting. This controlled deprivation elicits a hormetic response in the form of a positive biological adaptation to mild stress. It activates survival programmes and initiates the production of a fasting-induced secretome. The complex bioactive matrix is enriched with longevity-supporting molecules such as resveratrol, biopeptides and signalling compounds, all naturally encapsulated in plant exosomes for enhanced delivery and effectiveness.
Table 1: A comparison between the effects of fasting and metformin on ageing markers
SOFT, SILKY HAIR WASH AFTER WASH
Vytrus Biotech implemented specialised protocol where Vitis vinifera stem cells undergo metabolic conditioning under fasting-like conditions. This process stimulates the cells to shift into resource-conserving mode. The mode initiates recycling mechanisms and activates longevity pathways, mimicking the physiological effects observed in caloric restriction models. 6,7
To validate this approach, comparative metabolic profiling was performed between secretomes from fasted versus non-fasted cultures. Key metrics included the levels of peptides, proteins, sugars, polyphenols and resveratrol, as well as their overall antioxidant potential.
The analysis confirmed that the fasting condition significantly enhanced the antioxidant profile of the secretome, with notable increases in polyphenols (especially resveratrol) and peptide content. Resveratrol has been well documented for its role as an antioxidant and a modulator of key cellular processes tied to longevity, calorie restriction and inflammation management. 8-11
BIOACTIVE PILLARS
The unique value of Clarivine™ lies in the rich composition of its secretome, characterised by four main bioactive pillars:
1. Polyphenol-rich matrix – the fasting-triggered secretome features a robust concentration of antioxidant polyphenols, including resveratrol. These compounds are critical for neutralising oxidative stress, supporting cellular longevity and preserving skin integrity over time.17
2. Abundance of plant-derived peptides – naturally secreted signalling peptides and proteins play essential roles in cellular communication and skin renewal. These molecules aid in maintaining epidermal balance, enhancing regeneration and reinforcing the skin barrier.
3. High-density natural exosomes – the bioprocess yields an exceptionally concentrated population of plant-derived nanovesicles, measured in the range of millions per millilitre. These exosomes protect and transport the bioactive compounds, facilitating precise delivery and improved absorption by skin cells.
4. Exosomic resveratrol – this form of resveratrol is a breakthrough innovation by Vytrus Biotech. It is naturally encapsulated within plant exosomes during the fastingmimicking process and serves as a potent cellular modulator, activating longevity pathways and enhancing bioavailability. These characteristics amplify its regenerative and protective effects within the skin.
Collectively, the findings underscore how strategic nutrient deprivation can reprogramme plant cell metabolism to yield a highly potent bioactive profile. Among the resulting compounds,
resveratrol emerges as a cornerstone ingredient – not only due to its antioxidant strength but also for its role in cellular signalling, promoting pathways that enhance skin vitality, regeneration and long-term resilience.
BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITY (INVITROASSAYS)
In vitro studies were conducted to validate how the plant fasting factors of Clarivine™ enhance resource optimisation and modulate longevity-related biomarkers. Human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and senescent melanocytes were sub-cultured for two months under different conditions:
• control with a known hypoglycemic agent (C+; metformin)
• Clarivine™ at different concentrations (0.65% and 2.5%).
The key findings underscore the biomimetic potential of Clarivine™ to induce metabolic optimisation and regeneration in skin cells. Clarivine™ activates the following longevity pathways:
• IGF-1 modulation – treatment with Clarivine™ led to a significant modulation in IGF-1 secretion in HDF cultures, indicating a metabolic shift that mirrors caloric restriction.12-14 While a modulation of up to 60% in IGF-1 levels was observed, the result suggests a potential downstream activation of FOXO pathways, which are known to regulate DNA repair, oxidative stress resistance and longevityassociated gene expression.15,16
• Autophagy – the conversion of LC3-I to LC3-II, a widely accepted marker for autophagic flux, was significantly increased upon Clarivine™ exposure, comparable to hypoglucemic effects of metformin (C+) (see figure 2).
• Telomere protection – extended culture studies in HDFs revealed stabilisation of telomere length in Clarivine™ treated cells, suggesting a protective role against replicative senescence.
• Protection against senescence – it enhances cellular recycling, reducing senescence markers like SA-β-galactosidase (see figure 3).
• Results demonstrated a marked reduction of intracellular ageing pigments lipofuscin (34%) in fibroblasts and melanin content (29%) in senescent melanocyte models.
Figure 1: Bioactive profile of Vitis vinifera fasting-mimicking secretome
Table 2: Fasting-induced changes in Vitis vinifera secretome. Comparison between key compound production and metabolic markers
Figure 2: Autophagic activity measured by LC3 immunodetection in HDF
– a key marker of cellular senescence – compared to the untreated control
CLINICAL EVALUATION (INVIVOASSAYS)
To confirm the biological findings in human subjects, Clarivine™ underwent clinical validation. This included three randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled studies on multi-ethnic panels consisting of Caucasian and Asian volunteers with signs of photoageing, uneven pigmentation, dehydration and fine lines.
During in vivo 1 and in vivo 2, a formulation containing Clarivine™ was applied twice daily over 28 to 56 days. Key endpoints were assessed to prove the fasting-mimicking and glass skin effect, as well as the short term wellageing benefits demonstrated in in vivo 3.
INVIVO1: THE FASTINGMIMICKING EFFECT
On a panel of Caucasian volunteers, clinical studies demonstrate that Clarivine™ delivers visible and measurable improvements like those observed in fasting (see figures 5 and 6). The results demonstrate Clarivine™’s dual action in terms of visible aesthetic benefits and deeper cellular renewal.
By reducing oxidative stress and skin surface roughness (see figure 4) and promoting cellular recycling mechanisms, Clarivine™ enhances long-term skin resilience and vitality. This contributes to a more even tone, healthier appearance and improved radiance. Furthermore, a significant reduction in the skin melanin index was observed – 27% at day 28 and 28.9% at day 56, demonstrating the effective depigmenting action and its contribution to a more uniform complexion (see figure 5).
5: Clarivine™ effectively reduces global pigmentation and dark spots, delivering results comparable to those associated with fasting interventions
INVIVO2: RADIANCE, PIGMENTATION AND TEXTURE IMPROVEMENT
The clinical evaluation of Clarivine™ on the Asian panel demonstrates significant improvements across key markers of skin quality. The active ingredient notably enhanced skin radiance, with increases up to 70.5% at 28 days and up to 96.5% at 56 days, indicating a strong brightening effect.
Skin melanin content was reduced by 14.4% at day 28 and 23% by day 56, reflecting a measurable depigmenting action. Furthermore, skin roughness decreased by 29.5% at day 28, and maintained a reduction of 33.9% at day 56, supporting its role in improving skin texture and surface smoothness. Collectively, these results confirm the efficacy of Clarivine™ in promoting a more luminous, even tone and refined skin appearance over time.
INVIVO3: SHORT-TERM WELL-AGEING BENEFITS
In terms of moisturisation and anti-ageing effects, Clarivine™ showed visible results within 14 days. Skin hydration increased significantly, up to 48.1% at day 14 and 67.8% at day 28, indicating rapid and sustained improvement in skin’s moisture retention capacity. These results contribute to a visibly healthier, more supple, and luminous complexion which are hallmarks of the glass skin ideal.
In parallel, wrinkle depth was reduced by 27.4% at day 14 and 36.1% at day 28, confirming
the efficacy of Clarivine™ in improving skin smoothness and in minimising signs of ageing within a short application period.
CONCLUSION
Clarivine™ is a 100% natural active. Developed using patented technology, it is obtained from Vitis vinifera stem cells and developed through sustainable plant biotechnology. It is designed to promote skin longevity while delivering the smooth, translucent radiance characteristic of the glass skin ideal.
Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, this plant-based biotechnological ingredient is COSMOS-certified, Chinacompliant, Halal-approved and microbiotafriendly. It offers a clean, inclusive profile for global skincare innovation.
Through a carefully designed nutrient restriction protocol, the plant cells undergo a mild stress response (hormesis), stimulating the production of a uniquely potent secretome. This metabolically enhanced complex is rich in plant fasting factors such as resveratrol and skin-signalling peptides, which are naturally encapsulated in plant-derived exosomes to maximise bioavailability and targeted cellular communication.
Acting as a true fasting-mimetic at the cellular level, the ingredient reactivates essential longevity mechanisms including autophagy, oxidative stress protection and telomere maintenance. It also reduces lipofuscin accumulation – the hallmark pigment of cellular ageing – and lowers melanin levels, helping restore clarity and uniformity to the skin.
Clinical trials on Asian and Caucasian skin types demonstrate significant improvements in skin glow, moisture retention, evenness, pigmentation reduction and wrinkle smoothing. Combining immediate visual results with deep regenerative potential, Clarivine™ represents a new generation of highperformance cosmetic biotechnology. It offers a robust tool for formulators focused on well-ageing, brightening and skin revitalisation and is perfectly aligned with consumer demand for results-driven, health-conscious and sustainable skincare solutions. • References available on request
Savannah Fine Chemicals – savannah.co.za Vytrus Biotech – www.vytrus.com
Figure 4: (A) Skin profilometry (Rz parameter) to assess the progressive results of Clarivine™ on skin roughness compared to fasting. (B) Skin antioxidant potential was assessed in the first skin layers
Figure
Figure 7: Clarivine™ boosts and maintains skin hydration while reducing wrinkle depth, contributing to the glass skin effect
Figure 6: After the Clarivine™ application, skin appears less yellowish due to a reduction in lipofuscin – the pigment associated with ageing
Turning the tide on invasive algae
Origin by Ocean is partnering with the CABB Group for a first-of-a-kind biorefinery to commercialise and scale ingredients from invasive brown algae.
The transition away from fossil-based ingredients has put industries like cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and food in urgent need of sustainable, functional alternatives on a large scale.
Finnish green chemicals company, Origin by Ocean and the CABB Group, a leading contract development and manufacturing organisation (CDMO) specialising in fine chemicals, have entered a strategic partnership to establish a first-of-a-kind algae biorefinery at CABB’s production site in Kokkola, Finland.
The facility will use Origin by Ocean’s patented biorefinery technology and is set to begin operating in 2028. It will focus on processing sargassum, an invasive brown seaweed, into high-value ingredients, such as alginate, fucoidan, and biomass residue. Origin
by Ocean will construct the biorefinery and CABB will operate it under a Manufacturing as Service (MaaS) arrangement.
FROM ENVIRONMENTAL CRISIS TO COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITY
Currently, nearly all everyday consumer products, such as plastic items, cosmetics, detergents and soaps, contain fossil-based chemicals.
Simultaneously, mounting plastic waste, tightening regulations and consumer demand have put pressure on brands to find alternative, safe options for traditional ingredients.
The answer may lie in our oceans. Fuelled by agricultural nutrient runoffs and rising ocean temperatures, harmful algal blooms have impacted coastal communities in the Caribbean and West Africa. Producing up to 40 million tonnes of biomass annually, these blooms have rendered beaches unusable and disrupted local economies, especially fishing, as marine ecosystems are thrown off balance. According to the Government of Jamaica, cleaning up sargassum from Caribbean beaches costs an estimated $120 million annually. However, algal blooms are starting to affect marine communities all around the world, not just in the Caribbean.
Origin by Ocean intends to turn the environmental disaster into a solution for the chemical industry.
A PARTNERSHIP THAT IS MAKING WAVES
“Our fossil-based world is broken. For change to be possible on a large scale, we need to reimagine the value chains of the products that we use in our everyday lives.
DID YOU KNOW?
Algae-based ingredients offer unique competitive advantages to the chemicals industry, and an opportunity to reduce the environmental footprint of consumer goods products. Algae-based ingredients better meet the requirements of existing and incoming regulations, make it possible to respond to consumer demand for sustainability, and often have better functionality, availability and cost compared to existing ingredients.
Source:OriginbyOcean
As we partner with CABB and prepare for the construction of the first-of-a-kind biorefinery, we are already planning for additional biorefineries in the Caribbean, closer to the sargassum blooms. The advantage of our technology is that we can establish facilities anywhere around the world. Now, we are ready to scale and are actively looking for partners to accelerate the widespread industrial adoption of new ingredients derived from brown algae,” says Mari Granström, chief executive activist and founder of Origin by Ocean.
The market identified by Origin by Ocean can benefit immediately from algae-based ingredients and is worth $220 billion. CABB is the ideal partner with its existing industrial infrastructure and industry leading expertise in the scale-up and production of customised and complex molecules.
“We are excited to partner with Origin by Ocean and to have an opportunity to advance our sustainability agenda as well as our growth strategy in life science," says Ari Venninen, managing director of CABB Oy in Finland.
To date, Origin by Ocean is working with multinational consumer goods companies, and Finnish fashion and lifestyle companies, such as Marimekko. •
CABB Group – cabb-chemicals.com
Origin by Ocean – www.originbyocean.com
Mari Granström, chief executive activist and founder of Origin by Ocean
CABB is using Origin by Ocean’s patented biorefinery technology to process sargassum into alginate and fucoidan – ingredients for the consumer goods industry
Sargassum, an invasive brown seaweed
Biotech innovation tackles microplastic pollution
Cellugy secures a major investment to replace microplastics in personal care products with a biobased alternative.
Danish industrial biotechnology startup, Cellugy develops innovative, biobased solutions to replace fossil-based materials in the personal care industry. The startup has secured €8.1m in funding to support scaling up the production of its biofabricated cellulose-based rheology modifier material, EcoFLEXY. The funding comes in the form of a grant from the LIFE Programme, which is the European Union’s funding instrument for projects supporting environment and climate action.
EcoFLEXY is designed to replace fossil-based carbomers, known as harmful microplastics, significantly reducing environmental pollution and the use of hazardous chemicals in the cosmetics sector. It delivers superior product performance and adaptable sensorial properties, along with scalable, operationally efficient manufacturing to meet the needs of a fast-evolving beauty industry.
ESSENTIAL
TO COSMETIC
PRODUCTS
The release of microplastics from personal care products is a growing concern. Studies indicate that products such as facial scrubs and liquid soaps contribute to environmental pollution.1 Recent research also suggests that microplastics can enter the human body through inhalation, ingestion or skin contact, raising questions about their potential impacts on human health. 2
EcoFLEXY is positioned to prevent the release of 259t of microplastics annually
Rheology modifiers, for example, are essential to virtually every personal care product, from skincare and colour cosmetics to deodorants and oral care. However, nearly 70% of the €2.8bn global rheology modifier market remains dependent on fossil-based carbomers and acrylates. These are classified under the EU’s REACH regulation due to their persistent and toxic nature.
OVERCOMING BARRIERS TO TRANSFORMATION
Through BIOCARE4LIFE, EcoFLEXY is positioned to prevent the release of 259t of microplastics annually by project completion, scaling dramatically to 1.289t per year by 2034. This will be equivalent to removing millions of contaminated beauty products from the market each year.
The timing of BIOCARE4LIFE is crucial, as reports suggest the beauty industry could stand to lose around €12bn ($13bn) due to the EU microplastics ban and US restrictions on PFAS, also known as ‘forever chemicals’. 3 But there is more the challenge than a sustainabilityrelated issue.
“An alternative material that simply aims to be more sustainable is not enough. The critical challenge is about delivering bio-based solutions that actually outperform petrochemicals in performance parameters like texture, functionality, and user experience, while also being scalable and operationally efficient,” explains Dr Isabel AlvarezMartos, CEO and co-founder at Cellugy. “Good intentions won’t drive industry change; we need higher-quality alternatives like EcoFLEXY that make it easier, not more difficult for brands to choose sustainability. Only when bio-based materials match or exceed
the performance and economics of traditional ingredients will we see the transformation needed to protect both human health and our planet.”
A HIGH-QUALITY ALTERNATIVE
EcoFLEXY offers superior performance and previously unachievable functionalities compared to existing biobased ingredients, such as xanthan and cellulose gums, while eliminating the handling challenges associated with plant-nanocellulose alternatives.
The biofabricated cellulose material delivers enhanced stability, compatibility and sensoriality – all critical factors for cosmetics manufacturers who cannot compromise on product quality while meeting growing sustainability demands. This bridges the gap between the performance of fossil-based modifiers and the environmental benefits of natural materials, enabling the creation of effective and eco-friendly personal care formulations.
COLLABORATING WITH EXPERTS
The BIOCARE4LIFE project will drive EcoFLEXY’s scale-up process through the work of a specialist consortium of experts in biotechnology, sustainability, and data management. These include the Footprint Firm (TFF), which focuses on circular economy solutions and environmental impact validation, as well as Sci2sci, a Berlin-based startup specialising in data management, machine learning and AI-driven process optimisation.
"The project signals real progress toward more sustainable manufacturing in the personal care sector," said Will Nunn, Manager at The Footprint Firm. "Our role is to validate the environmental impact and ensure the best alignment with circular economy principles. The project’s combination of technical innovation and sustainability validation positions EcoFLEXY very strongly for market adoption and supports the EU’s broader transition to a more resource-efficient economy.”
“Scaling a biotech solution is never simple, but it’s where the real value lies,” comments Angelina Lesnikova, Sci2sci CEO. “Our role is to optimise every layer of production, from fermentation parameters to supply chain predictability. This will enable EcoFLEXY to compete with petrochemical alternatives not just on environmental benefits, but also on cost and performance metrics that matter to manufacturers. Together we have the potential to make sustainable chemistry economically irresistible as well as environmentally essential.”
COMMITTED TO DELIVER MEASURABLE IMPACT
The €8.1mn investment will fund critical scaling activities, process optimisation and commercial validation over a four-year period.
“This grant provides the resources we need to transform our vision into reality. Within three to five years, we expect to be generating significant revenue while delivering a measurable environmental impact. Our end goal is sweeping petrochemicals from an industry that is worth billions, and we now have the backing and the partnerships to make it happen,” Dr Alvarez-Martos concludes. •
DID YOU KNOW?
EcoFLEXY is a first-of-its-kind fermentation platform, which produces high-performing dry cellulose from the bioconversion of sugar using an energyefficient process.
Cellugy’s leadership team is committed to delivering a measurable environmental impact
EcoFLEXY is biofabricated cellulose material
EcoFLEXY delivers enhanced stability, compatibility and sensoriality in cosmetic products
Novel technology elevates natural oil performance
After nearly a century of pioneering excellence in the supply of natural ingredients, W. Ulrich has achieved a milestone that is set to redefine the sensory standard of cosmetic oils.
The company proudly announces the launch of its exclusive SQ transformation process, a cutting-edge innovation that is revolutionising the way natural vegetable oils are perceived and used in cosmetic formulations.
The SQ process – short for ‘Sensory Quality’ – is a 100% natural, nonchemical enhancement technology that transforms the tactile and absorptive characteristics of oils without altering their composition or INCI classification. This ensures that formulators maintain the integrity and clean-label purity of their ingredients, while dramatically improving product performance.
ENHANCED SENSORY QUALITY
Traditionally, many vegetable oils have been associated with a heavy, greasy texture that lingers on skin and impedes absorption. SQ changes this paradigm. Through a proprietary physical process, oils treated with SQ acquire an ultra-light, silky-smooth and fast-absorbing profile, elevating their usability across a wide range of cosmetic applications, from luxurious facial serums to weightless hair oils.
“It’s not just an improvement – it’s a sensory revolution,” says a spokesperson at W. Ulrich. “We’ve taken nature’s best oils and refined their tactile properties to meet the modern consumer’s demand for lightness, elegance and efficacy, without any compromise on naturalness.”
POWERFUL BIOAVAILABLE INGREDIENTS
The SQ process protects the oil’s natural antioxidants and essential fatty acids
One of the most compelling applications of the SQ process has been demonstrated in Oilrich® Argan, W. Ulrich’s premium argan oil offering. Thanks to SQ, the oil’s molecular structure is reshaped to enhance absorption into the hair fibre, providing intensive nourishment without the typical greasy afterfeel. Users report dramatically improved shine, smoothness and manageability – even under challenging humidity.
Applied to refined olive oil, it mimics Squalane at half the price and becomes a sustainable, plant-based option with enhanced functionality and a lightweight feel. This is perfect for formulations targeting hydration, softness and skin barrier support.
Moreover, the SQ process protects the oil’s natural antioxidants and essential fatty acids, ensuring that the full power of the ingredient remains intact and bioavailable. The result is hair that looks
healthier, feels softer and performs better with lasting, visible benefits.
And because the SQ process involves no solvents, additives, or chemical modification, it is perfectly aligned with the rising demand for clean beauty and ecoconscious formulations.
LOCAL DISTRIBUTION AGREEMENT
As W. Ulrich celebrates its 93 rd anniversary, this achievement stands as a testament to its unwavering commitment to innovation, sustainability and quality. The company is not only honouring its past but also shaping the future of natural cosmetic ingredients.
next generation of sensory excellence in their products, the message is clear: Experience the transformation. Feel the difference.
The SQ transformation process is now available exclusively through W. Ulrich. For formulators seeking the
Contact Afrisil Speciality Ingredients, W. Ulrich’s exclusive distributor in South Africa, to elevate your formulations to a new level of sophistication. •
DID YOU KNOW?
The SQ process unlocks entirely new possibilities for formulators, such as:
Facial oils that vanish into the skin with a dry, luxurious finish
Massage and body oils that nourish deeply without residual heaviness
Hair treatments that hydrate and repair without build-up
• Creams and emulsions that glide on effortlessly and absorb quickly.
Afrisil Speciality Ingredients –https://afrisilspec.co.za/ W. Ulrich – www.ulrichgmbh.de/en
The SQ Process - short for “Sensory Quality” - is a 100% natural, non-chemical enhancement technology that transforms the tactile and absorptive characteristics of oils without altering their composition or INCI classifi cation. This ensures that formulators maintain the integrity and clean-label purity of their ingredients, while dramatically improving product performance.
Cross-category actives: the skinification trend
Vantage Specialty Chemicals presents three actives that demonstrate how the skinification trend is reshaping hair care formulation.
The beauty industry is witnessing a fascinating trend – the ‘skinification of hair’ – with the strategic application of traditional skincare ingredients to address hair and scalp concerns. This cross-category approach recognises that hair, like skin, requires targeted nutrition, hydration and protection to maintain its health and vitality.
Vantage Specialty Chemicals, through its innovative agencies Codif and Solabia, presents three actives that perfectly embody this trend.
DEEP HYDRATION MEETS SUSTAINABILITY
Hydranov by Codif represents the pinnacle of sustainable hydration technology for hair care. Derived from sodium carrageenan powder (furcellaran), this naturally sourced active delivers progressive moisture enhancement that mirrors the best skincare moisturisers. Clinical studies demonstrate impressive results: hydration levels increase significantly with each application, showing marked improvement from first use through to the fifth application. What sets Hydranov apart is its environmental credentials. The production
process utilises fully recycled water, minimal energy consumption, and generates virtually no solid waste, with 23% of materials being recycled or reused. For formulators seeking sustainable solutions, Hydranov offers efficacy comparable to traditional moisturisers whilst maintaining exceptional environmental responsibility. The recommended usage level of 0.5% to 2% makes it highly versatile for various hair care formulations.
THE GLASS HAIR PHENOMENON
Solabia’s 3Dermilyn breaks new ground by delivering structural and emotional benefits traditionally associated with advanced skincare. This bio-sensory active, extracted from Plantain (Plantago lanceolata) seeds, contains a highly branched carbohydrate network that creates unique biomimetic properties.
The technical marvel lies in its dual action: whilst forming a protective biofilm that smooths hair cuticles for enhanced shine (a 40% increase versus placebo), it simultaneously boosts hair hydration through improved enthalpy (29% increase at 0.5% concentration and a 39% increase at 1.0%). This mechanism enables the coveted ‘glass hair’ trend – ultrashiny, healthy hair with mirror-like luminosity.
Perhaps most intriguingly, 3Dermilyn addresses the emotional aspect of beauty by stimulating happiness molecules: dopamine increases by 19% and serotonin by 12%. This approach mirrors skincare’s move towards wellness-focused formulations. The ingredient’s ability to replace synthetic silicones like amodimethicone, whilst delivering superior performance, positions it perfectly for the clean beauty movement.
ANTI-AGEING FOR HAIR
D-Glycargine produced by Solabia introduces antiageing technology to hair care through its unique approach to glycation – the process where
By applying skincare science to hair concerns, formulators can address consumer demands
sugar binds to proteins, forming Advanced Glycation End-products (or AGEs), which contribute to ageing. This patented combination of Arginine and L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid works preventively and curatively.
The clinical data is compelling. In ex vivo studies on hair follicles of 54-year-old women, 1% D-Glycargine increased melanin content by 205%, effectively addressing hair greying at a cellular level. For colour-treated hair, formulations containing 0.5% D-Glycargine retained dye vibrancy by reducing colour loss up to 63% after 15 washes.
This active exemplifies ‘skinification’ by applying advanced anti-ageing science to hair concerns. Its dual mechanism – inhibiting new AGEs formation whilst repairing existing damage – mirrors sophisticated skincare approaches to cellular repair and protection.
THE FUTURE OF CROSS-CATEGORY INNOVATION
By applying skincare science to hair concerns, formulators can address consumer demands for multifunctional, sustainable and efficacious products. As the lines between skincare and hair care continue to blur, ingredients like Hydranov, 3Dermilyn and D-Glycargine represent the future of beauty innovation – where every category benefits from cross-pollination of the best scientific advances. •
The universal & inclusive hair care ingredient. Repairs, protects and moisturizes dry and damaged hair.
3DERMILYN
Acts as a biofilmogenic hair conditioner to elevate shine and lock in essential moisture.
D-GLYCARGINE
Curative and preventive action. Increases melanin content in greying hair roots and preserves hair dye from fading.
Wacker has developed a novel silicone coemulsion that ensures bad hair days are a thing of the past
Say goodbye to bad hair days
Silicones remain a trusted option for addressing the unique needs of textured and processed hair, offering immediate, visible results that empower individuals to care for and style their hair with confidence.
As a valuable ingredient in hair care, silicones are particularly beneficial for textured, curly and coily hair types. This is due to the unique ability of silicones to address common challenges like frizz, dryness and tangling. By forming a protective layer around the hair shaft, silicones smooth the cuticle to reduce frizz and enhance shine. Both parameters are especially beneficial for high-porosity hair prone to moisture loss.
Silicones also provide excellent slip, making detangling easier and reducing breakage, which is a key concern for curly and coily hair. Additionally, they can act as a heat protectant, shielding hair from damage caused by styling tools.
CONDITIONING AND PROTECTION FOR HAIR
Although silicones have faced criticism for potential buildup, this issue can be mitigated with thoughtful formulation. When combined with nourishing ingredients, silicones provide targeted benefits without weighing down the hair. Their ability to smooth, protect and enhance shine makes them particularly useful to consumers seeking frizz control, curl definition, or protection during heat styling.
Take, for example, BELSIL® DADM 3240 E from Wacker – this innovative silicone co-emulsion with outstanding conditioning
properties protects hair and gives it a silky, smooth finish. The co-emulsion relies on the synergy between two silicones to create a network-like structure, which envelops the hair, providing gentle care and long-lasting protection. These properties make BELSIL® DADM 3240 E ideal for the formulation of shampoos, conditioners and leave-in products.
The combination of dimethicone and the amodimethicone crosspolymer is extremely effective, in the following ways:
• Rough, damaged hair is left feeling soft and supple.
• It feels silky and makes wet or dry hair very easy to comb.
• Its conditioning properties last longer than un-crosslinked silicone fluids.
• It is highly effective even at low concentrations.
• Shampoos require just 0.3% of silicone to boost hair softness by a factor of four.
SOFT, SILKY HAIR WASH AFTER WASH
Hair has become our most versatile accessory, offering endless opportunities for self-expression and style transformation. Yet when hair becomes brittle and damaged, one’s confidence can take a real knock.
With BELSIL® DADM 3240 E, Wacker has developed a novel silicone co-emulsion that ensures bad hair days are a thing of the past. This and other formulation technologies from Wacker are available in South Africa from IMCD.
“Customers say that a long-lasting conditioning effect is their greatest wish. The network-forming technology working in synergy with dimethicone oils has helped us achieve outstanding results: BELSIL® DADM 3240 E keeps the hair feeling silky even after several washes,” says Dr Gerhard Beer, head of technical marketing, Wacker Hair Care. •
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za Wacker – www.wacker.com
BELSIL® DADM 3240 E consists of a combination of dimethicone and an amodimethicone crosspolymer (Source: Wacker)
Shampoos containing the novel co-emulsion BELSIL® DADM 3240 E improve the silkiness of damaged hair by more than twice as much as shampoos containing conventional dimethicones. This is a genuine technological advance, especially as just 0.8% silicone is enough to generate this e ect in mild, sulfate-free shampoos. Another benefi t: thanks to BELSIL ® DADM 3240 E, combs can slip e ortlessly through wet hair, thereby preventing further damage. Furthermore, we are sure that BELSIL® DADM 3240 E will become a favorite among hair products manufacturers. Firstly, because it is compatible with all conventional surfactant systems. Secondly, because it can be admixed without lowering the viscosity of the formulation or impairing the foaming properties of the shampoo. For more specifications visit www.wacker.com/personalcare
Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Silkiness of Damaged Hair
Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Wet Combing of Damaged Hair
Undisclosed benefits of Prolevium™ in hair care: Hair humidity proof protein
Croda, the company that uses smart science to create high-performance ingredients and solutions that improve lives, has published the undisclosed benefits of Prolevium™ in hair care.
Prolevium™ is a versatile plant protein that has been part of Croda’s portfolio for over 10 years. Historically positioned for the skincare industry for its counter-irritant properties, new performances on hair have recently been discovered, responding to one of consumers’ main interests: frizz control.
Adapted to different lifestyles, Prolevium™ is a perfect asset to keep hair well-defined. It offers exceptional frizz control and style retention, leaving hair looking and feeling beautiful, even in different climates and at extreme humidities.
Prolevium™ is part of Croda’s extensive portfolio of naturally derived biopolymers
MARKET CONTEXT
At a time when consumers are embracing the longevity philosophy, the demand for healthylooking hair over time is increasing – for all hair types.
Aude Lemoine-Dessaint, EMEA hair care marketing manager, comments on the market drivers behind this new product positioning.
“Hair health and aesthetics are influenced by many different factors, including natural hair morphology; the use of mechanical, thermal, or chemical processes; lifestyle; ageing and external aggressors. With a growing concern about climate change and its impact on the environment and people, consumers are looking for solutions to protect their hair and scalp from external aggressors. This includes protection from humidity directly linked to frizz formation, recognised as one of the main concerns related to climate change.”1
Prolevium™ – a humidity proof protein – taps into this trend, offering consumers healthy and frizz-free beautiful hair.
BENEFITS AND FEATURES
Prolevium™ is a protective protein that helps to regulate water within the hair fibre to prevent frizz formation, even at extreme humidities. It visibly reduces frizz by 40% for virgin type 2 hair and by 25% for double bleached type 1 hair*. The results are shown in figure 1. Prolevium™ also preserves hair texture and aesthetics to maintain consumer-perceivable smooth hair and hair softness. It protects styled hair from humidity without any negative impact on feel and no greasiness or residue.
Prolevium™ is part of Croda’s extensive portfolio of naturally derived biopolymers. It is 99% naturally derived (according to ISO 16128), from cottonseed found in the cotton flower, which is a global symbol of softness and comfort. Prolevium™ is vegan suitable, Halal certified, non-GMO, and free from phenoxyethanol. Furthermore, it is IECIC listed, and EU and UK REACh compliant, ensuring compliance for global beauty markets.
Prolevium™ offers exceptional versatility for formulators across all hair care formats. This innovative ingredient is particularly effective in
prevents frizz from occurring
styling products, where its frizz and humidity control properties deliver outstanding results. Regardless of hair type – whether straight or curly – Prolevium™ helps achieve sleek, smooth hair or beautifully defined curls.
DUAL-ACTION PROTECTION
Prolevium™ offers a combination of hair moisture regulation and skin counter-irritation properties, which work synergistically to control frizz and humidity in hair and soothe skin.
Croda Beauty is excited to present the new performance in hair care, helping consumers to navigate the challenges of climate change while coping with external aggressors, to keep hair looking and feeling beautiful. •
REFERENCE:
1. WGSN Key Trend 2025 Next Gen Hair Styling Products
Figure 1: Prolevium™ visibly reduces frizz on virgin type 2 hair and double bleached type 1 hair. Images reveal the formation of frizz on hair exposed to 80% humidity for 3 hours and proves that Prolevium™
Control Prolevium
Control Prolevium
Prolevium
Control
Prolevium
Regulatory ripple effects from Europe to SA
Europe has been quite busy, from bans to overarching principles impacting the cosmetics industry. CTFA’s technical & regulatory manager, Nadia Rashid explores movements in the regulatory space and the implications for South Africa.
The cosmetic industry in South Africa falls within the scope of the National Department of Health (NDoH) while the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association of South Africa (CTFA) plays a key role in the self-regulatory environment. Most elements within our overall regulation are extracted from the European Cosmetic Regulation EC 1223/2009. When the EU undergoes changes, we take each change under very careful consideration for local adoption.
The past 12 months have seen significant movement in the regulatory space with bans, the reopening of the recommendation of the European Commission on sunscreen products and the opening of the public consultation on the evaluation of the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Committees involved in the safety assessment of ingredients, such as the Risk Assessment Committee (RAC) and European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), play a significant role in the eventual banning and restriction in cosmetics. Without the defence of the safe use of ingredients according to Article 15 of the EU regulation, a substance enters the EU regulation and eventually, the CTFA Compendium. With many ingredients under the spotlight, it’s crucial to pay careful attention to those that would significantly impact the South African cosmetics industry, such as talc and tea tree oil.
THE TALC AND TEA TREE OIL SHAKE-UP
Talc has been a toiletry essential in almost every home for decades. From a cosmetic regulatory perspective, it is a restricted substance. When a substance is restricted, it means that a condition for its use is set; it could be in the form of a quantity limitation, extra wording for the label, product type limitation or even a combination.
In the case of talc, extra wording is added to label as a precaution stating that it must be kept away from children’s nose and mouth when used in powdery products intended to be used for children under three years of age. However, this categorisation for talc is about to change. In a report from September 2024, ECHA’s RAC classified talc as a CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic,
The impact of changes in regulation affects not only the South African cosmetics industry, but those in many other countries worldwide
and reprotoxic) substance Category 1B according to criteria set by the Regulation on Classification, Labelling, and Packaging of chemical substances (CLP Regulation). Official deadlines from the EU are awaited before taking any further action, but talc is expected to be banned in the EU during 2027.
Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree oil) is used extensively in personal care products. In
November 2023, RAC adopted an Opinion that tea tree oil is a category 1B reproductive toxicant.
The committee concluded that classifications were warranted in nine hazard classes. In the Opinion, it said that it was not possible at the time to conclude on the mode of action nor show that results from the animal studies in the dossier are not relevant to humans. It also noted that there was no human epidemiological data on tea tree oil’s reproductive toxicity. Any substance classified as a CMR in the EU CLP regulation, which includes those classified as Category 1B, are banned for use in cosmetics in the EU, unless industry members receive an exemption by demonstrating safe use according to specific criteria as per Article 15 of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) 1223/2009.
A NEW ASSESSMENT APPROACH
When it comes to defending the safety of a substance used in a cosmetic product, it is important that the applicability of the approach itself is considered. A risk-based approach considers the likelihood and consequences of exposure to a hazard, whereas a hazard-based approach focuses on the inherent danger of a substance, regardless of exposure. Almost anything at a high enough dose and under the right conditions can be lethal. Yet all hope is not lost, as the European Commission received a dossier in August 2024 to defend the safe use of tea tree oil as an ingredient with anti-seborrheic and anti-microbial function in rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products. Thereafter, the European Commission requested the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) to carry out a safety assessment on this ingredient.
On 6 June 2025, the European Commission published two SCCS opinions open for comments until 18 August 2025 – one of which was on tea tree oil. In its Opinion, it states that tea tree oil (also referred as ‘TTO’) is considered as an anti-seborrheic and anti-microbial agent and considers its use in cosmetics is safe up to the maximum concentration of:
• 2.0% in shampoo
• 1.0% in shower gel
• 1.0% in face wash
• 0.1% in face cream. Comments on the Opinion can be submitted directly to the contacts provided by the
Talc is expected to be banned in the EU during 2027
SCCS Number.
Tea tree oil contains a substance known as p-cymene. Depending on the outcome of the ECHA’s Risk Assessment Committee opinions regarding the proposed new harmonised classification and labelling, p-cymene is at risk of being banned as a CMR.
According to the EU Cosmetics Regulation No. 1223/2009, cosmetic ingredients classified as CMR of categories 1A or 1B under Part 3 of Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008, shall be prohibited. This substance is of great concern as it’s found in many essential oils in varying amounts, thus their safety and classification as a banned substance may be at risk.
SUN CARE STANDARDS UNDER THE MICROSCOPE
When it comes to sun care, the current status of the regulation is that it is essentially a non-formal legislation and the recommendation used by industry and EU authorities, is a reference. Over the past months, a working group has been established to delve into the principles of sun care as a whole. Feedback on the recommendations and conclusions of the working group is expected by the end of this year.
At this stage, what we do know is that although some aspects of sun care, such as critical wavelength and new methods of testing, are valid – others are being debated. These aspects include:
• the photoprotection ability ratio of UVA:UVB of 1:3
• certain sun-sensitive skin types and considerations regarding them
• the fact that secondary sun protection products are not included in the current scope
• many labelling considerations with possible reduction in categories
• the UVA logo
• warning changes.
REGULATION REVISION: 2025-2029 ROADMAP
With great power, comes great responsibility and so rests the charge of regulation in Europe. The impact of changes in regulation affects not only the South African cosmetics industry, but those in many other countries worldwide. Taking this into consideration, Europe has opened the public consultation on the evaluation of the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Work on the targeted revision of the Cosmetics Product Regulation (CPR) showed that apart from areas identified in the Chemical Strategy for Sustainability (CSS), there are other areas needing revisiting and changes in the broader regulatory context advocate for a comprehensive and not ‘piece meal’ approach.
Consultations began in Q1 of 2025. It is expected that an adoption of the evaluation report with recommendations will happen by
Q3 of 2026. A revision of the CPR will most likely happen, however the drivers behind it would be radically different from the ‘targeted revision’ discussed over the past three years. Targeted revision was imposed by the CSS and issues were identified under the chemicals legislation (REACH, CLP).
The revision now proposed would be more driven from within, based on an assessment of what actually works (or does not work). A proposed timeline will follow on from the report in 2026 to an impact assessment and scrutiny by the board by mid-2027, Commission proposal for revised Regulation by end 2027, Ordinary Legislative Procedure (European Council and Parliament) until end 2028 and publication of the revised Regulation in early 2029.
SA'S CONFIDENCE IN EUROPEAN STANDARDS
In principle, any topic can be raised for regulatory change in the legislation. However, the topics discussed for the ‘targeted revision’ will certainly be brought up again, unless they have been addressed in the meantime. There is the possibility of relooking the following:
• Article 15 (CMR substances) and specific provisions on Endocrine Disruptors
• The safety assessment of mixtures/combinations
• updating the definition of nanomaterials
• the management of scientific committee SCCS
• better consumer information through digital means
• ‘Lisbonisation’ of the Cosmetics Regulation (i.e. introduction of procedure of ‘delegated act’ and implementing act’ instead of ‘comitology procedure’)
• improved market surveillance though better coordination between customs and in-market control.
The director of technical regulatory & international affairs at Cosmetics Europe
stated that “although improvements can always be made on the fringes, the core principles and requirements of the European Cosmetics Regulation are solid and continue to provide a strong reference for international legislations”.
This statement gives the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa (CTFA) confidence in our selfregulatory environment in South Africa and supports the fact that basing our framework on the European model while incorporating local nuances holds well for a reliable South African cosmetic industry to flourish. •
CTFA – ctfa.co.za
image gettyimages
Advanced quality control with compact FT-IR Technology
In South Africa’s evolving pharmaceutical landscape, ensuring product quality and regulatory compliance are critical. Bruker's ALPHA II compact FT-IR spectrometer is a game-changing solution, specifically designed to support the rigorous validation needs of pharmaceutical laboratories whilst delivering exceptional reliability and efficiency.
The ALPHA II's compact, laptop-sized footprint makes it ideal for spaceconstrained pharmaceutical facilities without compromising analytical performance. Its patented RockSolid™ interferometer technology guarantees over 10 years of maintenance-free operation, providing the longterm reliability essential for pharmaceutical quality assurance programmes.
What sets the ALPHA II apart for pharmaceutical applications is its comprehensive regulatory compliance framework. The system fully adheres to ALCOA+ standards and maintains 100% compliance with 21 CFR Part 11 requirements, ensuring data integrity throughout the analytical process. This compliance support is crucial for local pharmaceutical manufacturers navigating both domestic and international regulatory landscapes.
STREAMLINED QUALITY CONTROL OPERATIONS
Pharmaceutical laboratories require rapid, accurate analysis for incoming raw materials inspection and finished product verification.
The ALPHA II's QuickSnap™ sampling modules enable seamless adaptation between different sample types, from powdered APIs to liquid formulations, without extensive method development.
The integrated OPUS TOUCH software transforms complex analytical procedures into guided workflows, allowing new operators to become proficient within minutes. This userfriendly approach significantly reduces training costs whilst maintaining analytical rigour—a vital consideration for pharmaceutical facilities managing diverse testing requirements.
VERSATILE ANALYTICAL CAPABILITIES
The ALPHA II excels in multiple pharmaceutical applications, including raw material identification, contamination detection, and
quantitative analysis of active pharmaceutical ingredients. Its Platinum ATR module, featuring a diamond crystal, handles even the most challenging pharmaceutical samples, from corrosive compounds to hard tablets.
The system’s CenterGlow™ source technology, with its extended five-year lifetime, ensures consistent spectral quality essential for method validation and transfer between facilities. Meanwhile, the integrated diode laser provides exceptional wavenumber accuracy, supporting the precise identification required in pharmaceutical analysis.
COST-EFFECTIVE INVESTMENT
For South African pharmaceutical companies, the ALPHA II represents exceptional value. Its low energy consumption and maintenance-free design reduce operational costs, whilst the modular architecture accommodates evolving analytical needs without requiring complete system replacement.
The ALPHA II’s durability and compliance features make it particularly suitable for local pharmaceutical manufacturers
The ALPHA II’s durability and compliance features make it particularly suitable for local pharmaceutical manufacturers seeking to enhance their quality control capabilities whilst meeting international standards. As South Africa's pharmaceutical sector continues expanding, the ALPHA II provides the analytical foundation necessary for maintaining product quality and regulatory compliance in an increasingly competitive market. •
The ALPHA II allows you to chemically analyse any kind of sample, may it be solid, liquid or gas. Pharmaceutical powders can be easily and efficiently analysed by the ALPHA II. DID YOU KNOW?
Compliant Spectroscopic Solutions for Regulated Pharmaceutical Industries
Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FT-IR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and cost-effective compliance.
Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP
Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ
Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability
ALPHA II - Compact and Reliable FT-IR Spectroscopy
State-of-the-Art FT-IR spectrometers should be effi cient and straightforward above all else. The ALPHA II follows this approach and makes FT-IR analysis easier than ever before. The user can swiftly exchange Bruker’s versatile QuickSnap™ sampling modules to ideally fi t the device to almost any kind of sample (e.g. solids, liquids and gases).
BRAVO - Handheld Raman Spectrometer
BRAVO mitigates fluorescence (SSE™), addresses a large spectral range (Duo LASER™) including CH stretching region and is a class 1M Laser product. The intuitive and guide workflow gives the ability for Raman spectroscopy into everybody’s hands
LUMOS II - Fully Automated Stand-Alone FT-IR Microscope
LUMOS II provides best performance for visual inspection and infrared spectral analysis of micro samples with highest comfort in use.
TANGO - The Next Generation of FT-NIR Spectrometer
Faster, simpler, more secure - with TANGO your NIR analysis speeds up. TANGO has exactly what users require of an FT-NIR spectrometer suitable for industrial use: robustness, high precision and straightforward operator guidance.
Bruker South Africa (Pty) Ltd Unit A-A001-G
Contact us for more details: www.bruker.com/optics info.za@bruker.com
Ground Floor, Lincolnwood Office Park Woodlands Drive, Woodmead Johannesburg 2191
Tel: +27 11 463-6040
FT-IR, FT-NIR, RAMAN
Continuous coating challenges traditional production methods
Continuous coating technology is shaking up pharmaceutical manufacturing with 85% efficiency gains and massive cost cuts. South African producers can now access O’Hara Technologies’ game-changing continuous coating systems through local agent, Formpak.
Tablet coating is a critical operation in tablet manufacturing process. The pharma industry has undergone significant innovations, evolving from traditional coating pans to advanced batch coaters. Among the most groundbreaking advancements in this field is the continuous coaters, credited to O’Hara Technologies, a manufacturer based in Canada.
Unlike traditional set-ups requiring multiple coaters, a continuous coating system streamlines operations by consolidating them into a single, modular unit. This innovation not only simplifies the cleaning and validation process but frees up valuable space for other manufacturing activities.
BREAKING THE BATCH BARRIER
It is a common misconception that the continuous coating process necessitates a continuous feed of tablets from the tablet press.
This technology allows manufacturers to coat all tablet batches continuously, from the first tablet to the last, without the need to break down the batches into multiple ones.
While batch coaters involve a time dependent process and are typically
manually operated, continuous coaters are rate dependent and recipe driven.
As pharma manufacturers face increasing pressure to boost output and reduce costs, the continuous coating technology presents several benefits, such as:
• reduction in product losses
• reduced in-process control
• significantly reduced carbon footprint
• reduction in capital costs
• reduction in labor costs
• significant reduction in utility consumption
• up to 85% operational equipment efficiency.
The shift towards continuous coaters is not only inevitable but also essential
SUSTAINABILITY MEETS PROFITABILITY
Brian O’Hara, president of O’Hara Technologies, believes that continuous coating technology holds significant promise for the future of tablet coating. He emphasises that the shift towards continuous coaters is not only inevitable but also essential for tablet manufacturers.
According to Brian, the urgency for advancements in coating technology has never been greater, particularly in the light of rising operational costs and the high value of the formulation blends.
By adopting continuous coating technology, manufacturers can alleviate numerous challenges and enhance operational efficiency. While the industry has gradually transitioned from continuous coating systems to batch coaters, the move towards continuous coating technology will be swift and unavoidable. This evolution represents a critical step in progression to optimise the production process and ensure sustainability of manufacturing practices in the pharma industry.
For more information, contact Formpak, the South African agent for O’Hara Technologies. •
Figure 1: An example of a continuous coating system (Image: O’Hara Technologies)
CUT YOUR TABLET COATING COSTS
Suitable for 75 KG, 250 KG, 500 KG, & 1200 KG
Our patented Fastcoat™ Continuous technology allows users to significantly improve productivity through coating a wide range of capacities continuously.
BENEFITS
• Capital and operational cost savings when compared to batch coating. Most efficient method of coating, rapid and adjustable throughputs.
• Higher quality product output, reduction in product damage.
• Less GMP space required when compared to multiple batch coaters.
• Quick transition from pilot to production using a single system.
FEATURES
•True continuous or batch style of production Zero Waste start-up and shut down system
• Automated bed-tilting for tablet bed-depth control
• O'Hara Professional Coating Arm with Schlick™ ABC (anti-bearding cap) spray nozzles
• Built-in solution pump(s) with solution flow meters and recirculation valves
• Remote air handling unit with preheat humidity control and HEPA filtration
• Remote exhaust fan and dust collection system
• 21 CFR Part 11 compliant Siemens™ or Allen Bradley™ PLC control
• Wash-in-place system
• Solvent capability optional
• Material handling equipment available – conveyors, diverters, cooling/polishing tunnels, etc.
Heat recovery revolution cuts pharma energy waste
Pharmaceutical manufacturers are literally watching millions of kilojoules of energy disappear into thin air every day. Romaco Innojet just became the first company to capture this wasted heat – by integrating a hightemperature heat pump directly into its fluid bed process.
It is common knowledge that the fluid bed process is extremely energy intensive. During production, significant energy is required for drying and coating granulates and pellets used in the pharmaceutical, food and chemical industries.
The Heat Recovery System (HRS) developed by Romaco Innojet for its VENTILUS® product family aims to reduce this enormous energy consumption. Centred on sustainability, the innovative technology is easy to implement in the fluid bed process and enables energy savings that are equivalent to about 60% of the heat output.
At the heart of the Romaco Innojet HRS is an industrial heat pump rated for a flow temperature of up to 100°C. It responds with flexibility to the outlet air conditions of the different processes running on the machine.
The parameters dictated by the production process, such as air and spray flow rates, or the required heating temperature, result in variable outlet air conditions.
The heat pump also adjusts its operation accordingly. The setpoints for the temperatures of the cold and hot water streams are established on the HMI panel or in the fluid bed processor’s automated process recipe system. This is also where users specify the process step in which the heat recovery system should be activated. And the fluid bed process runs independently of active heat recovery.
EFFICIENT ENERGY CYCLE
The water-to-water heat pump that is used for the HRS is no different from a standard commercial heat pump in terms of the way it works.
The relatively low temperature level of the outlet air is sufficient to boil the refrigerant in the heat pump and to transform it into a
gaseous state. This gas is then compressed under high pressure, heating it to a very high temperature and emitting the heat to the processing machine’s inlet air via a water circuit. The energy transfer causes a cooling cycling, cooling down the refrigerant once again, so that it condenses and flows through an expansion valve in a liquid state. It expands due to the drop in pressure and returns to its original temperature, so the heat pump cycle can continue.
In Romaco Innojet’s HRS, the heat pump is divided into two water circuits:
1. for the inlet air
2. for the outlet air.
The energy transfer is controlled using four heat exchangers. The thermal energy that is recovered from the outlet air is fed directly into the inlet air during the process and
The HRS can recover thermal energy equivalent to up to 60% of the heat output
The HRS from Romaco Innojet can be easily integrated into any fluid bed processor in the VENTILUS® product family and IGL series
utilised solely to heat the process air stream. Complex intermediate storage or secondary usage scenarios are no longer needed for the recovered energy.
INNOVATIVE USE OF OUTLET AIR HEAT
The frictional heat from the outlet air fan is also used by the recovery system in addition to the thermal energy from the process outlet air. The high-pressure fan, which pulls the process air through the fluid bed system, is situated upstream from the recovery module in the outlet air handling unit. It heats the air to approximately 5°C to 15°C. Thanks to the HRS, this energy can be fed directly into the heat pump and recovered, instead of the energy escaping unused into the atmosphere together with the outlet air.
Romaco Innojet has registered intellectual property rights regarding the development of the circular HRS.
The heat pump achieves a COP of 3.5 on average – recovering 2.5 times more energy than is consumed electrically. In relation to
YOU KNOW?
The innovative technology is easy to implement in the fluid bed process
EASY TO IMPLEMENT
The HRS is very easy to implement in all new machines belonging to the Romaco Innojet VENTILUS® product family and IGL series. The system can also be retrofitted.
At the InnoTech laboratory in Steinen, Germany, a V 150 featuring an integrated HRS is available for product trials. A pharmaceutical manufacturer from Southern Germany is the first to use the technology in practice – in a VENTILUS® processor with a maximum batch volume of 900 ℓ
the fluid bed process, this equates to energy savings of up to 60% in the heating process –equivalent to an approximate 50t reduction per year in carbon dioxide emissions, depending on the size of the machine.
The Innojet fluid bed processors ship with an energy monitor, which is integrated in the HMI, to enable precise calculations of energy efficiency. This tool measures the exact consumption of the system as a whole and its individual components. All energy streams, including recuperative heat recovery streams, are recorded over the machine’s entire service life. These values can be displayed in megawatt hours, carbon dioxide or carbon equivalents and are stored in the system. Robust data can be obtained for sustainability reporting, which is mandatory for a growing number of companies worldwide.
The Romaco Innojet HRS is particularly efficient when it comes to granulating and drying wet granules – in all processes with high spray rates and high air consumption. Where fluid bed processes are concerned, the enormous energy saving potential represents an important step towards more sustainable production of pharmaceutical, food and chemical products.
Romaco is participating in POWTECH TECHNOPHARM from 23 to 25 September, taking place at NürnbergMesse, Exhibition Centre 1, in Nuremberg, Germany. Visit Booth 9-549 in Hall 9 for more information on the Romaco Innojet HRS. •
In 2024, Romaco was awarded its first-ever gold medal in the EcoVadis sustainability ratings for its commitment to climate protection. DID
Precision meets performance in supplement manufacturing
When Vital Products needed a reliable solution to check the weight and completeness of its products, both precisely and efficiently, it turned to Minebea Intec.
Vital Products is a leading contract manufacturer. Its manufacturing plant is based in Waldsassen, Germany, where it produces nutritional supplements in tablet and capsule format which are mainly filled into plastic bottles.
Since 2002, the company has been offering comprehensive services from product development to packaging. With modern production facilities and the highest quality standards (DIN EN ISO 9001, IFS Food), Vital Products supplies ‘Made in Germany’ capsules, tablets and powder blends to customers worldwide.
To guarantee the quality of the filled tablets and capsules in plastic bottles, Vital Products invested in the Flexus® checkweigher and the SPC@Enterprise software solution from Minebea Intec. This is made possible by the precise
weight control and comprehensive process monitoring of the solution. The main objective of the investment was to ensure the company’s high-quality standards through reliable technologies.
PROCESS MONITORING REQUIREMENTS
Minebea Intec supplied the Flexus® WS one kilogram checkweigher including the powerful SPC@Enterprise software solution. This combination not only enables precise weight control, but also comprehensive process monitoring and analysis.
The Flexus® checkweigher accurately checks the weight of the plastic bottles to ensure that each product meets the defined specifications. At the same time, the check scale performs a quality check to ensure that all the containers are filled correctly.
The Flexus® checkweigher accurately checks the weight of the plastic bottles
The seamless integration of the SPC@ Enterprise software allows Vital Products to evaluate in detail the required production data to identify any weak points and optimise its production processes.
A LONG LIST OF BENEFITS
The advantages for Vital Products are obvious: • Quality assurance and greater efficiency
• The software is easy to use
• seamless integration into exsisting production processes.
Thanks to the detailed data analysis, quality standards can easily be met while audits are facilitated with little effort. This strengthens the reliability of internal processes and ensures customers remain confident in the products produced by Vital Products.
Extremely satisfied with the solution supplied, Vital Products emphasised the reliability of the checkweighers and the quality of the Minebea Intec service and support team. This positive experience led to a further investment in two additional checkweighers, which will be added to the production lines to ensure that the entire production process at Vital Products is equipped with Minebea Intec’s technology.
DID YOU KNOW?
Minebea Intec is a leading global manufacturer of industrial weighing and inspection technologies. The company offers products and services that have stood for innovation, performance and reliability for more than 150 years. Its portfolio includes high-resolution platform scales, load cells, hopper and silo scales, checkweighers, metal detectors, X-ray and visual inspection systems as well as intuitive software solutions.
LONG-TERM PARTNERSHIP
This relationship between the manufacturer and technology supplier demonstrates how Minebea Intec creates added value through innovative solutions and customerorientated service. The combination of precision, efficiency and process control not only improved production quality at Vital Products but also laid the foundation for a long-term partnership.
Vital Products is an excellent example of how customised solutions from Minebea Intec can help to meet demanding customer requirements and at the same time secure a competitive advantage.
“The solutions of Minebea Intec, especially the Flexus® checkweigher, have significantly improved our product quality and processes. The precision, reliability and excellent service are convincing across the board,” says Rainer Skotnik, managing director at Vital Products GmbH. •
Minebea Intec – www.minebea-intec.com/en
Vital Products – www.vitalproducts.de/en/home
Minebea Intec’s Flexus® checkweigher with the SPC@Enterprise software
Vital Products production facility
THIS YEAR’S EXHIBITORS IN KZN
Acti-Chem SA
AECI Specialty Chemicals
Azelis
Botanichem
Carst & Walker
Chempure
CJP Chemicals
Cosmetic Ingredients (hosted the registration desk)
KZN Supplier Day delivers innovation and networking success
Raw material innovation took centre stage in KwaZulu-Natal as the local cosmetics industry community came together for a Supplier Day hosted by Coschem.
The second Coschem KZN Supplier Day exceeded expectations, drawing over 100 industry professionals to the Westville Country Club on 23 July for a day of innovation and networking.
Twenty-three leading raw material suppliers showcased their latest formulations and technologies, providing attendees with valuable insights into emerging trends and breakthrough ingredients. The event created prime opportunities for cosmetics industry professionals to explore new partnerships, discover cutting-edge solutions, and expand their professional networks within the KZN region.
STRENGTHENING INDUSTRY
CONNECTIONS
Coschem extends its gratitude to all participating suppliers, including those who travelled from across South Africa to share their expertise with the KZN cosmetic manufacturing community. Their commitment
The event created prime opportunities for cosmetics industry professionals to explore new partnerships
to knowledge-sharing was instrumental in delivering exceptional value to all attendees.
The society commends its KZN Chapter, under the capable leadership of Ann-Tarlia Moodley, for orchestrating this successful event. The chapter’s meticulous planning and execution ensured a seamless, engaging experience that strengthened industry connections throughout the province. •
Coschem – www.coschem.co.za
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