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Speciality pharma ingredients driven by expertise and innovation

March 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 3


The fragrance industry’s fresh perspective Meet international suppliers at in-cosmetics | New ideas to revolutionise bath time

“ Hair Aficionados Curly & coily. Wild & manageable. Shiny & sleek. Hair has its own individual personality. Understanding multi-ethnic hair, developing tailored scent and care concepts, that’s how we’re offering just the right formula for every individuals crown and glory. We interweave our knowledge about hairy trends and type-specific hair care with our deep hair expertise and are thus facilitating permanently gorgeous and healthy hair.


March 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 3

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Sorbet closes its doors in the UK

Clariant’s new bulk pharma packaging solutions

Ecovadis gives Vantage a Silver rating



In-cosmetics Global returns to Paris

What’s new in South Africa


DuPont hosts a networking session


Pharmintech 2019 opens in April

Meet the team at Iberchem South Africa

In-cosmetics Global returns to Paris

Scentsational Fragrances empowers entrepreneurs

Omya presents new natural ingredients

Traditional themes re-energised by Bell EMEA

Naturals from IFF-LMR to excite the senses

Symrise innovates with green chemistry The evolution of natural perfumes


IMCD’s total product solutions for Africa

Gattefossé appoints sole distribution to Carst & Walker



Top reasons to outsource production


UPM Raflatac opens a distribution plant in JHB

Highlights from the Coschem AGM


Outsource your pharma production


Nielsen reveals growth in private label sales



Marchesini looks to cosmetics for growth

Excipients for African pharma manufacturing


Capture the essence of your brand with Iberchem

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



From the editor


In good company


Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti

he countdown to in-cosmetics

information from Ashland, IMCD South Africa,


Global is always exciting. I’ve been

Gattefossé and Carst & Walker, our pharma

Sales Executive: Carla Melless

fortunate to attend the exhibition

focus will help you find the right excipient for

for five consecutive years and with

your formulation, based on the administration

each occasion, it gets better and better. In-

route of the product, its functionality or the

cosmetics truly is the leading global event for

dosage form.

personal care ingredients. My favourite part of Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541

Don’t miss out on Research & Markets

the show is the educational aspect. There are

Pharmaceutical Contract Manufacturing

so many free to attend seminars on all three

Market Report (2018 to 2028) published on

days which offer something for everyone, from

page 28. The report will give you a good

marketing to technical content.

overview of the global market and provides a

The winner of the P C Review/Symrise

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896

number of reasons why many brand owners


New Product Competition also gets to attend

use contract manufacturers and why some

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien

in-cosmetics. This year, Delia Greeff, Skin

pharma giants choose to outsource the

Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860

Rejuvenation Technologies’ professional

production or packing of certain products.

brand executive, and I will head to Paris,

There are a series of interesting reads in

Italy: Ngcombroker

France, to attend the exhibition. Skin

our bumper feature on fragrances. Turn to

Rejuvenation Technologies took home

page 38 now to read about who’s who at

the winning prize in the 2018 New Product

Iberchem South Africa, to learn more of the

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media

Competition, for its Optiphi Clarity Serum.

difference Scentsational Fragrances makes in

Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318

entrepreneurs’ lives and to understand how

a chance to win a trip to in-cosmetics Global

Symrise harnesses natural by-products using


2020, by entering the 2019 P C Review/

green chemistry.

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers

If you’re a brand owner, you can also stand

Symrise New Product Competition. Entries

Please let us know if you’re attending

Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694

+27 (0)21 701 1566

close on 7 June; more information is available

in-cosmetics Global from 2 to 4 April.

in the competition info pack, which you

I will be there for the entire duration of


can request by sending an e-mail to

the show and would love to cover your

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

principals’ launches and show news. You

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva

can tweet @SApharmacos, like and follow

+27 (0)11 877 6281

If you’re wondering what’s in store for the Paris show, we’ve packaged exhibitor news

@PharmaceuticalCosemticReview on

and expo highlights, such as the live demos,

Facebook or follow @pharmacosreview

education programme and sustainability

on Instagram.

Production Controller: Pam Moodley Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

corner topics, in our preview on page 14. Excipients take centre stage in our March

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park,

Enjoy the read.

69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092

pharma focus. Although inactive, these

Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198

functional ingredients are crucial to the


manufacturing process and to aid drug

PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

delivery in the body. With the detailed

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd


HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112



Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa


PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

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Serving sub-Saharan Africa Regional marketing and technical resources to support personal care innovations in sub-Saharan Africa. BASF’s Care Creations™ is now closer than ever. Meeting the needs of the personal care industry in Africa.



Vijay Bahadur, Seppic’s beauty care

countries through its subsidiaries and

business unit zone manager for the

network of distributors, including CJP.

MEA region, adds: ‘Seppic offers a

CJP has represented Seppic

Vijay Bahadur, Janine Fitzpatrick; product manager at CJP Chemicals, and Ashok Bhatt


wide range of innovation and effective

throughout southern Africa for

active ingredients and technologies

a number of years, making its

for the African market, to address, for

innovative ingredients and formulation

example, pigmentation or even tone skin

technologies available to manufacturers

care needs and Ethnic hair care needs.

throughout the region. The company’s

Sepiwhite MSH is a super effective

newly established speciality ingredients

molecule for skin brightening and even

division will bring a renewed focus and

tone applications. Through a novel

stronger presence in the market for its principals, including Seppic.

and demonstrated mode of action, the active ingredient lights up

changing. It’s becoming increasingly

Ashok Bhatt, Seppic’s director for

complex and requires suppliers to be

the AMEI region, says: ‘Seppic creates

pigmentation related concerns. The

more agile than ever before to meet

inspirational ingredients for cosmetics

effective lightening activity of the

brand owners and manufacturers

which bring performance and technical

active ingredient has been tested on

shifting needs.

sophistication to formulations while

Ethnic skins.’

CJP Chemicals (CJP) is investing in its

limiting their environmental impact.

the complexion while limiting

For Ethnic hair care, Seppic offers

capabilities in line with the requirements

Cosmetics ingredients are the biggest

Xylishine, a natural hair moisturiser

of the market. The company is also

contributor to Seppic’s revenue. As

that enhances shine and curl

solidifying relationships with its

a result, the company has made

definition, as well as EmoSmart V21, an

principals, including Seppic. Prized for its

substantial investments in its associated

environmentally friendly emollient, which

proximity and reliability, Seppic designs

capabilities with new factories, facility

is proven to be as good as Dimethicone

and markets a wide range of speciality

expansions and key acquisitions,

in improving the manageability and

ingredients for health and beauty.

including Serdex and Biotech Marine.’

appearance of textured or curly hair.

Sorbet shuts its doors in the UK ACCORDING TO BUSINESS Insider South Africa, the Sorbet beauty salon concept, which is hugely successful in South Africa, has failed in the UK. In an interview on 702’s The Money Show, Sorbet founder Ian Fuhr told Bruce Whitfield ‘the five stores in London will close their doors after he decided to pull the plug’. The closure won’t affect the South African operations, which are owned by Long4Life – a group run by former Bidvest founder, Brian Joffe, who bought the SA Sorbet group from Fuhr in 2017. Fuhr and a group of other shareholders own the UK business. Fuhr said the closure is due to ‘a very, very difficult’ trading environment in the UK. Retail sales in the UK fell 1.3 percent in December, which was the biggest drop since May 2017. Consumer sentiment is also under pressure amid Brexit concerns. Fuhr added ‘the UK work ethic is a little different to ours, and we


struggled with the culture. The education of beauty therapists is inferior to that in South Africa, which is quite interesting’. There are 207 local Sorbet stores. The local business did ‘extremely well last year’, according to Fuhr. He is still involved in the local operations and says 2018 was the best year yet in Sorbet’s history. The chain saw a ‘fantastic bump’ in Christmas sales and franchise demand remains strong.

| MARCH 2019 | P C Review


The Ingersoll Rand HOC rotary screw dryer

PHARMA MANUFACTURING APPLICATIONS, which high quality, oil free and low moisture compressed air, can now increase their uptime and energy efficiency with Ingersoll Rand’s new industrial heat of compression (HOC) desiccant dryers. The dryers work with oil-free rotary and centrifugal compressors providing constant, moisture-free and high quality air with almost no energy consumption. ‘Our industrial customers require high quality clean air to ensure their product quality is impeccable. They are also looking to make their operations as efficient and sustainable as possible by recovering

energy in every process,’ says Armando Pazos, vice president, Ingersoll Rand compression technology and services in Europe, Middle, East, India and Africa. ‘We have designed our new HOC dryers to respond to all these needs.’ The new dryers use heat – a natural by-product of the compression process which would normally be wasted. Instead, the dryers use it to regenerate the desiccant throughout the drying process, which makes them the most energy efficient type of desiccant dryer available on the market. The dryers feature a dual-tower design using reliable desiccant as the drying agent. They utilise the free heat to provide moisturefree air, while consuming almost no energy. They also offer a continuous supply of dry compressed air by switching the towers between desorption and adsorption cycles to constantly regenerate the desiccant. Compared to other technologies on the market, this allows the compressed air to be in contact with the absorbent media for longer, which ensures less dependency on working conditions to deliver the required air quality.

PACKAGING SOLUTIONS FOR BULK PHARMA PRODUCTS CLARIANT’S HEALTHCARE PACKAGING business line offer products to protect the quality and appearance of bulk pharmaceuticals, such as powders, tablets and capsules, as well as active pharma ingredients (API) during processing and shipment. The business line showcased these packaging options at Pharmapack 2019 in Paris, on 6 and 7 February. ‘It is common practice to include desiccants and other controlled atmosphere products in end-market packaging,’ explains Dr Elisa Le Floch, business development and marketing manager of Clariant Healthcare Packaging, ‘but it is just as important to control moisture and oxygen in bulk packaging, to extend shelf-life and prevent degradation and future processing or assembly problems.’ The simplest solutions use desiccant. Sorb-It Pharma bags are filled with silica-gel desiccant, while Tri-Sorb Pharma bags employ a molecular sieve. Placed inside packages of bulk or finished drugs or work in process APIs, these bags adsorb any moisture in the product, or the surrounding air, to provide a low humidity environment. Moisture can cause a loss of drug potency and caking and clumping, which affects material flow. So, it’s important to provide protection. The desiccant bags comply with US Pharmaceopeia USP (670) testing requirements for auxiliary packaging components. They are available in a range of standard and custom sizes to suit specific requirements. For certain pharmaceutical products, a simple


desiccant may not provide the protection required. For these applications, moisture must be controlled to certain specific levels. Powders, for instance, can cake or clump when exposed to too much moisture, while too little can cause undesirable static electricity. Oral dosage forms, such as tablets or gelatine capsules, need a certain amount of moisture to maintain plasticity and prevent brittleness. Even plastic parts used in medical devices, when stored in bulk packaging, can pick up electrostatic charges if the environment is too dry. For these types of bulk applications, Clariant recommends EQius bags. These bags are made using specially engineered sorbents that can simultaneously act as humectants (desorbers) and desiccants (absorbers), maintaining a particular equilibrium relative humidity (ERH) inside product packaging. The EQius equilibrium stabiliser products can maintain specific ERH levels between 10 and 60 percent, to help maintain the physical integrity of bulk ingredients in boxes or bags. Clariant Healthcare Packaging offers packaging solutions to protect bulk pharmaceuticals, maintaining their quality and appearance

Gerresheimer is expanding its range of services to include surface finishing of plastic pack-aging for ophthalmology and rhinology products with irradiation

Gerresheimer now offers irradiation of dropper bottles AT PHARMAPACK IN Paris, France, on 6 and 7 February, Gerresheimer unveiled its latest ophthalmology and rhinology services. The company has teamed up with select certified partners to add surface finishing of plastic dropper bottles to their irradiation services. ‘We want to make life easier for our customers when it comes to procuring their dropper bottles, by treating our products with gamma radiation using select recognised and certified partners,’ says Niels Düring, global executive VP of plastic packaging. The chosen partner companies all have ISO 11137, 11737 and 13004 certifications. Gerresheimer will be responsible for handling this process from start to finish. The inspection process will also see Gerresheimer physically and chemically testing product

characteristics after irradiation. Ultimately, it will regulate the validation and revalidation of the entire process, helping reduce costs for its customers. The packaging company’s range of ophthalmology and rhinology products encompasses bottles and dropper inserts made from low density polyethylene (LDPE), with pump systems to match. Irradiation also ensures the products are germ-free. As a specialist in plastic packaging for the pharma industry, Gerresheimer offers a wide range of solutions for solid, liquid, and ophthalmological products. All of the company’s primary pharma packaging is produced in ISO class 7 and class 8 cleanrooms at its plants in Vaerloese, Denmark and Bolesławiec, Poland.

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



New ‘double partnership’ for Silab IN PARTNERSHIP WITH Prof. Peter Elias’ research team at the University of California San Francisco (UCSF), Silab’s advanced R&D unravels an unidentified biological cooperation. This is the capacity of skin cells to activate a local immune response. This important discovery has recently been published in Experimental Dermatology, subsequent to a peer review process. Cell to cell communication plays an essential role in protecting the skin from foreign elements. The finding has led to a French-American research collaboration with Prof. Elias, to study the initiation of a cutaneous immune response and the activation of dendritic cells in the presence of Staphylococcus (S.) aureus. ‘Prior work has shown toxins secreted by S. aureus, as well as its structural components, trigger a local immune response. It remained to be elucidated by which mechanism S. aureus creates an inflammatory microenvironment that favours the activation of immune cells,’ specifies Dr Carine Mainzer, Silab’s scientific support manager. Results highlight the role of keratinocytes and fibroblasts in the first steps of an immune response toward structural components of S. aureus, through the generation of a specific local microenvironment. ‘This international academic partnership and its findings are clearly consistent with the philosophy of Silab Softcare, to further understand and care for compromised skin,’ comments Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Silab’s deputy general manager of innovation. Silab’s technologies and active ingredients are available in South Africa from Meganede. An ilustration of the cutaneous immune response, courtesy of Silab


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

ECOVADIS AWARDS A SILVER RATING TO VANTAGE VANTAGE SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS (Vantage) has been awarded the Silver rating by EcoVadis for its 2018 Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) performance. The rating acknowledges Vantage’s commitment and continual sustainability achievements since it earned a bronze rating in 2015. EcoVadis assessed Vantage’s company policies, procedures implemented and company practices in terms of its environmental and labour practices, human rights, fair business practices and sustainable procurement issues. The assessment is conducted by EcoVadis’ CSR experts and based responses to a survey, which is adapted to the country(ies) of operation, sector and size using scorecards covering 150 industry categories and 21 CSR criteria. The rating is based on supporting documentation as well as public and stakeholder information. ‘This silver rating places us among the top 30 percent of companies evaluated. It also recognises our efforts and continuous improvement practices as a responsible company,’

comments Nicholas Marinelli, global regulatory and sustainability director for Vantage. The company embarked on a multiyear sustainable development transformation and cultural shift in 2015 and is making tremendous progress. The company has embraced the chemical industry’s Responsible Care guiding principles and applies them across all of its business units. This enhanced CSR approach broadens its scope and will make the company even more sustainable and attractive for customers, talents and investors.




ood f





in-cosmetics Global

2 to 4 April Porte de Versailles, Paris, France


Pharmintech 2019 10 to 12 April Bologna, Italy

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STREET 1 Rooibos infused wipes African Extracts Rooibos brings real skin care benefits to cleansing wipes. The key ingredient is bio-active Rooibos extract, which is packed with antioxidants and minerals. The spot control, hydrating,


sensitive and all skin types wipes are packaged in a handy resealable container, so they never dry out. The soft pack is also the perfect size for handbags.

2 Protect skin with Cherubs The trusted, proudly South African baby care brand, Cherubs has launched a petroleum jelly range. Available in fragranced and fragrance free variants, Cherubs Petroleum Jelly is packaged in a 250 and 500mℓ tub.

3 The skin vitamin



4 Rethinking retinoids Correctives 5.0 RA serum is formulated with a high concentration of Lamelle’s specially modified, safe, effective and remarkably well tolerated retinoid. Although almost double the dose of retinol in the 3.0 RA serum, is formulated in the 5.0 RA serum, it is still safe and tolerable, causing no effect on blood

Vitamin E has excellent antioxidant, antiinflammatory and skin healing properties. SOiL’s Vitamin E Oil can be used on its own or blended with other carrier or essentials oils. It is formulated with a moisturising blend of organic Jojoba Oil and Vitamin E to soothe and care for


retinoid levels and being comfortable to apply, without a prescription.

5 Liquid gold! Minerva Research Lab’s Gold Collagen is

blemished and scarred skin.

now available in South Africa from Deluxe Laser Salons. Formulated with the highest quality ingredients, Gold Collagen

5 10

| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

supplements boast a patented liquid formulation, with hydrolysed collagen the star ingredient. Gold Collagen helps stimulate the production of new collagen, elastin and moisture retaining hyaluronic acid molecules, which are essential factors to maintain a young, healthy appearance.

Launched a new product in 2018/19

Make a

Statement about it


New Product Competition ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t A b b y V o r s t e r : A b b y . V o r s t e r @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | + 2 7 ( 0 )11 8 7 7 6 2 8 1


Solve your complex problems with DuPont The DuPont brands – Tyvek, Tychem and ProShield – provide reliable protection for workers across the globe. The company recently simplified its product identification system and packaging for easier identification and to ensure compliance with the latest developments in personal protective equipment legislation.


o launch the new developments locally, DuPont South Africa hosted Christian Marx, DuPont VP and GM Ajen Maharaj, business leader at DuPont with Christian Marx, DuPont VP and GM of Tyvek and Typar

of Tyvek and Typar, for a breakfast

session and networking event in January, at the Protea Hotel Fire & Ice Johannesburg, Melrose Arch. ‘Tyvek was discovered by chance in 1955. The first Tyvek manufacturing plant was established in 1964 and last year, DuPont celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Tyvek brand,’ said Marx. When compared to reusable garments, the difference of Tyvek is noticeable. The unique nonwoven fabric has specially engineered properties that make it the number one choice worldwide for cleanroom garments and accessories. Tyvek acts like paper, has film functionality and is flexible like a fabric. It is seen as a truly durable substrate – reliable in all the applications in which it is used.

Cleanroom garments DuPont Tyvek’s IsoClean garments have a long history of use in cleanrooms due to their

Tyvek acts like paper, has film functionality and is flexible like a fabric hazards and are suitable for use in pharma R&D labs, cleanrooms, on aseptic processing lines, during chemical handling, or wherever a dust mask is used. To protect the process or maintain a highly

THE ROAD TO HEALTH CHART DuPont Tyvek is an iconic product with a unique combination of lightweight strength and durability, as well as a smooth surface, which is both printable and writable. This material is used in both government and private sectors for outdoor print media, durable documents, tags and labels, envelopes and industrial packaging. The

excellent barrier to particles, microorganisms

sterile environment, DuPont Tyvek’s IsoClean

South African National Department of Health

and water-based liquid chemicals. Made

protective garments are tunnel free thanks to

(NDoH) has been using Tyvek for almost a

from DuPont Tyvek flashspun HDPE, they offer

their special outward seams. Because they

decade for The Road to Health Chart. This long-

an ideal balance of protection, durability,

also prevent inward leakage, these seams,

lasting data card is crucial to tracking children’s

comfort and contamination control. They

which are limited in number, protect workers

are available in many styles for different

from exposure to the aggressive drugs used

cleanroom and controlled environment

to produce biopharmaceutical products.

applications and are packed and certified to meet global regulatory requirements. Breathability is one of the biggest

health history. Due to the overwhelming success of the application, NDoH has since specified DuPont Tyvek as the only printing substrate to be used for this card nationally.

DuPont Tychem gloves The new DuPont Tychem gloves were also

the right Tyvek and Tychem garments and

advantages of IsoClean garments. This

introduced at the event. This collection

gloves needed to safeguard their workers or

provides exceptional comfort for the wearer.

of gloves will be available in South Africa

to protect critical manufacturing processes

They also have extreme strength compared

in April.

by limiting contamination. Based on the risk,

to other reusable cleanroom garments on the market. There are two categories of IsoClean

The gloves are designed for chemical

find the best protective clothing and gloves

workers in hazardous work environments.

for the site or application. •

garments: non-sterile, and clean-processed

The collection has also been uploaded onto

and sterile. Depending on the requirement,

the DuPont SafeSPEC personal protective

these protective garments guarantee

equipment selector tool website, which

protection from chemicals and biological

enables protective apparel users to select


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

the user inputs information into the site to

exposure protection and to help safeguard

DuPont SafeSPEC –

A pharma packaging supplier, whose products were showcased at Pharmintech 2016


Italian pharma industry on show at Pharmintech Hosted every three years by Bologna Fiere Group, Pharmintech takes place in Bologna, Italy, from 10 to 12 April. The trade show is dedicated to showcasing technologies for the life science industries.


he spotlight will be on the entire

at the centre to source published data on the

pharma industry supply chain and

countries analysed.

related sectors such as biotech,

Data gathered by Pharmintech Monitor will

medical devices, personal care

be included in a detailed report presented at

and nutrition.

Over 300 exhibitors took part in the 2016 the Pharmintech Exhibition

the exhibition’s opening event on Wednesday

Pharmintech Monitor, a brand of the

10 April.

Pharmintech Exhibition, is a reliable source of information and market data collected and

Bologna Health Week

processed together with the UCIMA Study

The fifth edition of Pharmintech, which

Centre. A pool of experts and analysts have

took place in 2016, saw over 300 exhibitors

been studying markets of reference from

representing the entire supply chain

citizens to make their health a priority by

various countries to provide privileged points

participate in the trade show.

providing screening and prevention tests

of view based on economic data, statistics and sectoral studies.

The exhibition takes place in conjunction

at pharmacies partaking in the show. Tests

with Cosmofarma – from 12 to 14 April

include electrocardiogram screening, blood

– offering visitors a 360° overview of

analysis and blood glucose measurement

provides access to up to date information,

the pharma and healthcare industries

etc. For more information, visit www.

news and studies. It also has a section

manufacturing and distribution system. Pharmintech organisers

dedicated to Pharmintech Monitor. By

Bologna Health Week, from 10 to 14

have also launched extended campaigns

sending an e-mail via the site, industry

April, sponsored by Federfarma Bologna

on Linkedin, Twitter (@Pharmintech19) and

players can get in contact with researchers

and the Bologna Council, encourages

Facebook (@PharmintechExhibition).•

The new website,,








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July 9-11, 2019 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg Presented by Messe Muenchen South Africa

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P C Review | MARCH 2019 |


in-cosmetics Global returns to Paris

In Paris, France, from 2 to 4 April, you can source innovative ingredients and learn from industry experts about the trends influencing the beauty industry at in-cosmetics Global. Hailed as the cosmetics industry’s leading trade show, incosmetics Global brings together beauty and personal care industry suppliers and experts from all over the world.


espite economic instability, the

Exhibition manager, Roziani

cosmetics industry achieved

Zulkifli comments: ‘We are

estimated sales of €200 billion

excited to take the global

in 2017. Experts have forecast

show back to Paris – the


100kg. The guide will optimise the show experience of

must attract consumers by successfully

indie brand owners The 2018 edition of in-cosmetics by helping them Global attracted 9 392 unique home of cosmetics. forge important visitors – seven percent more than the 2017 show in London, UK. It has been another connections with International attendance increased by fast paced year in the relevant exhibitors. 19 percent to account for 88 percent cosmetics industry Specifically of all visitors. Major brand owners such as Unilever, Estée Lauder, and we have gathered designed for R&D Coty, L’Oréal, Bio-Oil, Procter together the biggest professionals and led & Gamble and Johnson & and most innovative by leading technical Johnson attended the 2018 expo. exhibitors to join us at Porte consultant and cosmetic

tapping into the latest trends to develop

de Versailles with their most

innovative and exciting products. In-

exciting launches.’

its revenue to increase by 7.14 percent in the next five years. According to Mintel, four key trends will drive this growth: personalisation; the rise of digital; naturals; and marketing campaigns that encapsulate a brand’s personality. To ride this wave of growth, companies

cosmetics Global is the perfect

chemist, Rouah Al-Wakeel, participants will be guided around major show features such as the

platform to provide this inspiration

Indie trail and R&D tours

Innovation Zone and Sensory Bar.

and a must attend event for all cosmetics

This year’s show will see the launch of

Three topics will be covered in the

industry professionals.

the indie trail. Indie brands continue to

tours: protection, sponsored by IMCD;

dominate the market and have become

healthy ageing, sponsored by Mibelle

highly influential in the beauty industry.

Biochemistry Group; and preservation,

The global market saw a 659 percent

sponsored by Symrise.

increase in review volume in 2017, illustrating the popularity and importance

Additional show features

of indie brands. Yet many indie brands say

Sponsored by Ashland, the popular and

they find it difficult to source suppliers that

interactive Innovation Zone will feature

can provide smaller ingredient quantities.

exciting and innovative formulations

To help these brands overcome their

launched within the past six months.

sourcing challenges, in-cosmetics will


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

The highly relevant Sustainability

introduce the indie trail guide, distributed

Corner, sponsored by Cargill, is set

to indie brand visitors. The guide is

to have over 20 pods showcasing

designed to help them navigate the event

sustainable ingredients or supply chain

and meet relevant suppliers by detailing

projects that have positively affected

the exhibitors that provide ingredient

the environment. This educational area

quantities to suit a production of up to

provides visitors with a unique way to

between food and beauty’. Visitors will

anticipates the call for innovation in the

be able to discover the key selling points

predominant anti-ageing segment. The

of food-based ingredients and how new

company will launch a new, avant-garde

opportunities have been created for food

active ingredient, which unlocks the secrets

manufacturers to play an active role in the

of healthy ageing by targeting the long

cosmetics industry.

non-coding RNA 886. Functional claims get

‘Teenage personal care – the gender

learn about how businesses are supporting

and effective alternative to support market

owner of the eponymous company, will

demands for aluminium-free deodorants,

address changes in how young people

alongside a sustainable and safe

identify with sexuality and gender as a way

neutraliser to capture the evolution of the

to define themselves and how the personal

cosmetics industry to eco-friendly products.

care industry can develop a trusted and

Clariant will also introduce a new platform,

meaningful relationship with adolescents.

Clariant Naturals, helping customers source

the achievement of the UN Sustainable Development Goals. Visitors will be able to put brand new

a boost with the introduction of a natural

agenda’, presented by Samuel Farmer,

more sustainable yet effective ingredients.


formulations to the test, as well as the

Mibelle Biochemistry PhytoCellTec Goji is Mibelle Biochemistry’s

opportunity to see and experience the

BASF Beauty Creations

novel stem cell active ingredient based

latest eye, skin, nail and lip makeup

The trio of actives Arganyl, Ciste’M and

on goji plant stem cells. The active

formulations at the MakeUp Bar, sponsored

DN-Age, from BASF Beauty Creations,

improves cell to cell communication

by BASF. Exhibitors including Interpolymer,

helps protect against cellular and dermal

via exosomes. These are small vesicles

Biesterfeld and Lubrizol will showcase their

damage as a result of exposure to blue

surrounded by a membrane which contain

latest makeup innovations, demonstrating

light. Arganyl protects dermal fibres; Ciste’M

messenger molecules. Latest research

how the beauty industry continues to

provides collagen protection against

has shown exosomes produced by

create new functional ingredients

natural and artificial blue light and DN-

and technologies.

Age promotes DNA protection against

More from the education programme

BASF Beauty Creations will be showcasing these ingredients at in-

The free to attend interactive sessions

cosmetics Global, as well as its newest

at the Formulation Lab, sponsored by

innovation, Bix’Activ, which corrects oily

Brenntag, will provide R&D professionals

skin by acting on the sebaceous gland

with a unique opportunity to learn the

to reduce sebum overproduction.

secrets to designing winning formulations.

It also addresses P.acnes virulence

Some of the key suppliers confirmed for

and acts on keratinocytes to reduce

this feature include Evonik, BASF, DSM and

hyperkeratinisation and the size of

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.

pores. An increase in pollution as well

The Formulation Challenge, sponsored

The goji plant is the source of PhytoCellTec Goji

natural blue light.

as poor lifestyle choices and diet lead

by Lonza, will take centre stage on 4

to increasingly oily skin. Oily skin affects up

mesenchymal stem cells are a beneficial

April. Six teams of highly skilled R&D and

to 80 percent of teenagers and adolescents

signal for skin regeneration and collagen

marketing professionals will be given a

in their early 20s and it’s not unusual to

production by fibroblasts. In vitro studies

box of mystery personal care ingredients

have oily skin into one’s 30s and beyond.

show PhytoCellTec Goji revitalises aged

and will be tested with creating an

Botanichem is the South African agent for

mesenchymal stem cells and boosts their

innovative formulation in 90 minutes. The

BASF Beauty Creations.

exosome production. This results in the

finished products will be evaluated by a

improved production of collagen and

panel of expert judges, based on their


elastin by fibroblasts. In placebo controlled

technical merit and marketing story.

Clariant is going all out at in-cosmetics

clinical studies, treatment with PhytoCellTec

The Marketing Trends sessions

Global to simplify the perceived

Goji significantly improved skin density and

are also free to attend, and

relevance and benefits of

wrinkle depth. A significant improvement of

will present insights into the

its products. Every new

oval face shape through reduced sagging

newest industry trends, data and market analysis. Ioannis Efthymiopoulos,

innovation will be grouped to a specific need, presented within the

ingredients analyst

Envisioning Beauty

at Euromonitor

brand. With skin care

International will deliver a presentation entitled ‘Personal care ingredients: blurring the boundary

finally having knocked colour cosmetics off the top category spot in the second half of 2018, Clariant

of facial contours was also observed. PhytoCellTec Goji and other actives from Mibelle Biochemistry are available in South Africa from Carst & Walker.

Bell Flavors & Fragrances ‘It’s all about you’ is the theme of Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA in-cosmetics Global marketing campaign. The

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |


German manufacturer of fragrances and botanical extracts, represented in South Africa by Fourchem, will present new product concepts and formulations in the fragrance zone. The broad scope of concepts embraces fragrances and extracts for conventional and natural cosmetics, for younger and

Over 20 pods will showcase sustainable ingredients or supply chain projects that have positively affected the environment

Addressing cellular senescence concerns, Codif has developed a biotech extract of Rhodella violacea, which has stress resistance properties. To stimulate these properties, Codif grows the alga in photobioreactors where it is repeatedly subjected to severe oxidative stress. The Rhodella reacts by producing a unique

more mature target groups and for

exopolysaccharide and intracellular

different applications. These include


enzyme – Detoxondria. At in-cosmetics,

shower gel and skin care applications.

Natchem’s principal, Greentech will

Codif will showcase Detoxondria to the

For fine fragrances, Bell will introduce a

launch two active ingredients, Epsilinea

global cosmetics industry. Codif’s active

silicone free version of its perfume cream

and ExpoZen. Epsiline was developed from

ingredients are available in South Africa

Scent2Last, tapping into the solid perfume

Porphyridium cruentum in collaboration

from Vantage Specialty Chemicals.

trend. Its Glow & Glitter concept is for

with its sister company, Greensea. The

shimmering skin while Me Time addresses

microalga is cultivated with optimal


consumers’ needs for inner peace and

parameters to reveal its full potential.

With multiple ingredient launches,

improved well-being. Travel addicts will find

Epsiline prepares the skin for sun exposure,

Dow has a lot in store for the in-cosmetics’

olfactive inspirations in The New France

activates tanning and extends its effects.

crowds. To help brands score points with

and the rich flora of the Amazon rainforest.

eco-conscious consumers, the company

ExpoZen improves skin protection from the external and internal aggressions

will launch its first essentially natural

responsible for sensitive skin. It delivers

ingredient and a ‘planet savvy’ film former.

If you’re looking for customised solutions

soothing properties by inhibiting the

Dow’s first silicone hybrid film former helps

for all the dazzling individualities, Sederma

substance of P receptors. It also acts on

combine performance and affordability.

has a new brightening active ingredient

TRPV1, which provides the sensations of

For next level luxurious experiences with a

specifically developed for olive skin

heat and pain (nociception). It leaves skin

high level of efficiency, Dow is introducing a

tones. Issued from plant cell culture,

beautified and reduces the feeling

sensory enhancer.

using an eco-designed production

of discomfort.


Dow’s TrendsLab 2019 collection, deemed

mode, the active addresses skin dullness,

engage and embrace, explores key trends

heterogeneous pigmentation, hyper-


for skin and hair care. At the interactive

sensitivity and dehydration of phototypes

To detoxify, revitalise and oxygenise tired

touch table on the Dow exhibition stand,

III to V.

skin, Codif has determined a method

visitors will be able to experience the

to read cell senescence based on the

innovations with all their senses. Please send

level as each skin microbiota is unique.

study of three cellular variables: cell size;

an e-mail to

Sederma has a range of active ingredients

mitochondrial mass; and autophagy.

to arrange one on one meetings with Victor

dedicated to restore, maintain and

Senescence cells, according to Codif,

Berowsky of ChemSystems, Dow’s distributor

protect skin microbiota harmony.

are characterised by a quicker increase

in South Africa. •

Probiotics, prebiotics, postbiotics and

in autophagy compared to the increase

other microbiota friendly solutions will be

in mitochondrial mass, implying the

presented, including Ecodermine, which

effectiveness of mitophagy is diminished.

recently underwent new tests proving its

It is now possible to define the mitophagic

ability to rebalance microbiota.

performance index from these variables.

Diversity also exists at the bacteria

Visit, for more information about the show, to register to attend and to receive the latest updates from exhibitors and the organisers. Email: +27 (0)11 609 1488



| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

Let nature take care of your innovation At in-cosmetics Global, stand F108, Omya will present a new generation of natural ingredients. It will also showcase lipstick, foundation and soap bar prototypes.


mya, a CJP Chemicals'

a softer skin feel. Omyaskin can be used

be heated up to 85°C and homogenised

principal, will launch

as an alternative to talc or kaolin. It also

without affecting their properties.

Cosmospheres – its high

supports the performance of titanium

quality cellulose based

dioxide in terms of coverage.

additives that provide visual effects as well

Observing emerging trends for waterless beauty products and a reduction of plastic packaging, Omya has developed

as carrier functions. An example is the

Sustainable formulations

an eco-friendly concept for soap bars,

Cosmos and NaTrue certified Omyaskin

The Omyacare range for skin care

which combines its natural minerals and

range for colour cosmetics applications.

formulations consists of natural high purity

distribution products. Featured products

calcium carbonate with multifunctional

include Omyacare, a natural calcium

the particles, the composed

benefits. Omyacare minerals can be used

carbonate for foam generation and sensory

minerals can absorb sebum,

in a variety of products, including emulsions

improvement, and Omyascrub, a mineral

reduce drying time and

(o/w and w/o) and anhydrous (non-powder)

scrubbing agent that can be used as a

deliver a matte finish.

formulations, to provide body and texture.

sustainable alternative to microplastics or

They deliver smoothness and a pleasant

polyethylene beads.•

Thanks to the porous structure of

Adding between one and ten percent of Omyaskin

skin feel when used in body lotions, body

to a formulation enhances

scrubs and decorative cosmetics, and are

compressibility and the

intended for better spreadability, reduced

finished product’s ability

tackiness and less greasy feel. Whatever

to provide smoothness and

the formulation, Omyacare minerals can

CJP Chemicals – Omya –

Omya Consumer Goods

Visit us at: 19, In-Cosmetics 20 Booth F108

Created by Nature – Enhanced by Omya Omyaskin® – A New Functional Mineral for Color Cosmetics · High absorbency power & Efficient mattifier · Superior coverage & Color strengthening · Skin feel modifier

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |


Enhancing performance through our purest grades of excipients to help you formulate seamlessly and drive your drug products to market. Super Refined Polysorbates n Super Refined Polyethylene Glycols n Super Refined Fatty Acids n

Super Refined Glycols n Super Refined Ethers n Super Refined Vegetable Oils n


Protect™ Enteric Coating System Performance You Can Trust Dating back to the early 2000s, fish oil has always been one of the most popular dietary supplements due to omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA and their exhaustive list of health benefits. Consumers are fueling a US$2.2 billion fish oil market globally on the backs of the health promises this super vitamin can deliver.


eading market intelligence agency Mintel has coined the HEALTH YOURSELF trend, showing overall consumers want to lead healthier lifestyles while improving their physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual wellness. Omega-3 rich fish oil is an ideal nutraceutical solution that meets consumers’ self-care needs and wants. Despite all the accolades for the health benefits of fish oil, consumers have complained that most omega-3 dietary supplements have some kind of burp back, where one gets the ‘fishy burps’ after consuming these daily vitamins. Sensient has developed Protect™ Enteric Coating systems to prevent these ‘fishy burps’ that everyone tries to avoid.

The most common flavours for dietary supplements in South Africa over the past three years: • Orange • Strawberry • Berry • Lemon • Tangerine • Raspberry • Apple • Blackcurrant • Cherry • Tropical

controls that lead to more efficient cycles and improved processing time. The enteric coating allows for ambient mixing for ease in preparation, has a rapid spray rate, minimises gun clogs, has excellent adhesion and flexibility and eliminates tackiness. Protect™ delivers a smooth, transparent film with levels as low as 2.5 percent weight gain, all with minimal cleanup for reduced down time in your manufacturing cycle. The Protect™ Enteric Coating system is unique because it offers the opportunity to incorporate a vivid colour or flavour to match your brand without compromising the integrity of the coating. It is also versatile in its ability to coat onto a variety of soft gel types, including hard, soft, high and low water content and seam depths.•

Recent trending flavours: • Tropical • Apple • Vinegar • Pineapple Common product claims noted in at least 15 percent of product launches over the last 90 days: • Low/no/reduced allergens • Gluten free • Botanical/herbal • No additives/preservatives • Sugar free • Low/no/reduced lactose • Brain/nervous system support

DELAYED RELEASE COATING Protect is a patented high-efficiency enteric coating system with unique delayed release coating function that delivers processing efficiencies that are premium to industry standards. The robust, aqueous two-part system is GRAS and vegetarian. Protect™ offers more processing

Dietary supplement trends in SA

• Immune support • Functional energy • GMO free Sensient Technologies South Africa E-mail: Website:

• Vegan • Bone health

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |


PHARMA FOCUS//Excipients

A total product solution for pharma manufacturing in Africa Through its extensive portfolio and technical experts, IMCD has become a leader in the distribution of speciality pharma ingredients. The company’s market focused technical and commercial experts in the EMEA region, AsiaPacific and the Americas, provide customers with innovative solutions to overcome their complex problems.


he South African pharma industry is the largest of all pharma manufacturing markets in Africa


of pharmaceutical products consumed in South Africa are imported from Asia and Europe

with the fifth highest expenditure

per capita. In 2015, the total market was valued at R44 billion with R34 billion attributable to the private sector. Bringing expertise, innovation and

In 2019, the export market is set to grow from R4.6 billion to R7.1 billion, due to fluctuations in the exchange rate

product efficiency to the South African and African pharmaceutical markets, IMCD South Africa supplies high value excipients and active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) for pharmaceutical synthesis, biotech, originator products

At a pharma manufacturing plant in South Africa, a worker examines the quality of a tablet

and generic pharmaceuticals and veterinary products. It also supplies contract manufacturers and contract R&D facilities, specialising in pharma products and nutraceuticals. All IMCD’s APIs and excipients are supported by full documentation and comply with the guidelines of Good Distribution Practice and regulatory requirements for suppliers. Its warehouses throughout South Africa and the one located in east Africa are all ISO compliant. Globally, the company is aligned with strategic partners, which are leaders in manufacturing APIs and excipients for pharma applications. Its range of excipients, APIs, speciality solvents, process chemicals and intermediates for formulation and chemical synthesis are all world class, quality products that are fully traceable.

IMCD’s APIs and excipients are supported by full documentation and comply with the guidelines of Good Distribution Practice

Enhanced trade in Africa

turnover and is strategically aligned with

into east Africa through IMCD Kenya,

At IMCD South Africa, the

international principals that are leaders

which has established a strong position

pharmaceutical business unit is

in producing sustainable and cost-

in the region. Based in Nairobi, IMCD

structured in the same way as the

effective pharma ingredients.

Kenya also serves the neighbouring

personal care one. Pharma contributes 10 percent to the company’s overall


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

IMCD South Africa provides national market coverage as well as penetration

markets of Uganda, Tanzania, Rwanda and Ethiopia.

PHARMA FOCUS// Excipients

IMCD'S PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNICAL CENTRE IN OCTOBER 2013, IMCD established its Pharmaceutical Technical Centre in Cologne, Germany, for technical marketing support and co-development projects. The laboratory is equipped to support activities for solid dose development, tablet coating and the development of suspensions and syrups. Since its launch, a number of IMCD’s principals have visited and run specialist courses in the technical centre. The support of its principals recognises IMCD’s commitment to the global pharma market and adds tremendous value to

commercial perspective, and is

typically used as a non-swellable, insoluble

actively driving the growth of pharma

component in matrix or coating systems.

manufacturing on the continent.

It can be used to coat one or more active ingredients of a tablet to prevent them from

Innovative polymers

reacting with other materials or with one

Ashland, one of IMCD’s strategic partners

another. Aqualon ethylcellulose can also

for pharma ingredients, helps its customers

prevent discoloration of easily oxidised

apply pharmaceutical polymers in ways that

substances, such as ascorbic acid.

ensure the efficacy, integrity and usability of their formulations. Klucel hydroxypropylcellulose provides

Aquarius Protect is a premium multifunctional barrier coating system that effectively reduces moisture uptake and

a remarkable set of physical properties for

masks against offensive taste and odour.

tablet binding, modified release and film

This more natural, film coating system is

coating. It is a surface active, thermoplastic

available in a range of options from clear

polymer, which is soluble both in aqueous

and white to pigmented variations.

and organic solvents. AquaSolve HPMCAS is used as a

Plasdone S-630 copovidone is a tablet binder, matrix polymer for solid dispersion

polymeric carrier in solid dispersions to

formulations. It can also be used as a film

enhance the solubility of poorly soluble APIs.

former for topical applications. This polymer

The amphiphilic nature, high glass transition

is commonly used to enhance the solubility

temperature and low viscosity in various

of APIs and to increase the bioavailability of

enhance trade and manufacturing on

solvents of this polymer, are some of the

APIs with poor solubility in water. •

the continent, IMCD South Africa has

unique properties that make it ideal for use

established the IMCD Africa pharma

in spray dried dispersion formulations.

its products and services.

To realise its full potential and

team. The team provides customer support, both from a technical and

Aqualon ethylcellulose is soluble in a wide range of organic solvents. Ethylcellulose is

Ashland – IMCD –

who supports continuous processing? — aquarius genesis ™

ultra high solids film coatings

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |


PHARMA FOCUS//Excipients

Gattefossé – a reliable supplier for drug development

As a leading provider of functional lipid excipients and formulation solutions to healthcare industries worldwide, Gattefossé is committed to delivering high quality excipients, technical support and inspiring formulations for drug delivery.


Compritol 888 ATO is a smart solution to sustain drug release when used at 10 to 25 percent. It forms an inert matrix from which the drug diffuses slowly over time. Used alone or in combination with HPMC, it enables the production of sustained release tablets using a direct compression process. A higher drug load is also achievable


with Compritol 888 ATO. ipid excipients for oral drug delivery include solubility and bioavailability enhancers, lubricants, modified release,

taste-masking, API protection and suspending agents. Excipients are used in a variety of processes enabling the formulation of different dosage forms, mainly tablets, granules, hard

Emulsifiers are designed for challenging formulations and deliver excellent texture and sensorial properties

and soft capsules. Compritol 888 ATO is a lubricant for

Gelucire 44/14 and Labrasol ALF are self-emulsifying excipients that can be used as a single excipient to increase drug solubility, permeability and bioavailability of poorly water soluble drugs. Multiple excipient combinations using oils such as Maisine or Peceol, surfactants like Gelucire or Labrafil and solvents such as Transcutol, form selfemulsifying lipid-based formulations.

production. It is also known as

Geloil SC is a ready to-use suspending

challenging pharmaceutical tablets,

the ‘trouble-shooting’ lubricant

agent, specially designed for easy soft

when used at one to three percent.

for tableting.

gelatin capsule production.

Its inertness eliminates drug-excipient

Precirol ATO 5 is ideal for taste-

incompatibility issues. As mixing time

masking and API protection when used

Topical drug delivery

and speed do not affect its efficiency

in a high shear or fluid bed coating

Lipid excipients for topical drug delivery

nor tablet hardness, it offers flexibility

process due to the formation of a film

include solubilisers, emulsifiers and

in formulation development and

coating around the drug particle.

viscosity modifying agents. Emulsifiers


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS// Excipients

1: Tablets and capsules for oral drug delivery 2: Lipid excipients for topical drug delivery 3: Suppositories and pessaries for rectal and vaginal drug delivery

Suppocire NAI 25 A is a versatile suppository base used with numerous APIs, including paracetamol, guaranteeing excellent drug release properties for a fast-acting antipyretic effect.

enabling a one pot process


Ovucire 3460 is a hard fat pessary base

and offering excellent mucosal

delivering enhanced spreadability within

and skin tolerance. It is used

the vaginal cavity and good mechanical

worldwide with a broad range

resistance. As it is non-irritant and

of APIs, including the ‘azole’

provides excellent mucosal tolerance, it is

antifungals to treat vaginal

widely used in antifungal treatments.

infections and mycosis. In

Alternative dosage forms for rectal

combination with Labrafil M 1944

or vaginal mucosal delivery can be

CS, it delivers exceptional heat

formulated with Gattefossé’s safe and

stability to topical emulsions.

non-irritant emulsifiers and thickeners.

Transcutol P is a safe and


effective hydrophilic solvent

International technical support

widely used to deliver drug

With an international network of

to the skin. In combination

technical representatives and

with Capryol or Lauroglycol, it

technical centres of excellence in

offers interesting synergies for

the USA, France, India and China,

transdermal drug delivery.

Gattefossé provides bespoke technical and regulatory support to accelerate drug development.

are designed for challenging

Rectal and vaginal drug delivery

formulations and deliver excellent

Lipid excipients for suppository and

appointed the local distributor

texture and sensorial

pessary formulation include

properties. Solubilisers offer skin penetration enhancement and viscosity agents stabilise formulations. Excipients are used in creams, emulgels, lotions, foams, microemulsions and gels. Tefose 63 is a multifunctional emulsifier,

hard fat and hard fat


with additives. These bases

Thousands of different excipients are used in medicines and make up, on average, about 90 percent of each product. According to industry experts, excipients represent a market value of €3 billion, accounting for 0.5 percent of the total global pharmaceutical market.

provide excellent

Carst & Walker was recently of Gattefossé’s portfolio of pharmaceutical excipients and is equipped to offer technical support in the region. For more information on the


excipients and to download up

stability and

to date technical and regulatory

optimise drug

documentation, brochures and case

delivery for a wide

studies, visit the company's website. •

range of active pharmaceutical ingredients and

manufacturing equipment.

Carst & Walker – Gattefossé –

Designer, manufacturer and provider of personal care ingredients and pharmaceutical excipients, we specialise in oleochemistry and biological extraction to best serve the Health and Beauty markets worldwide.

Carst & Walker is the proud distributor of Gattefosse’s personal care and pharmaceutical products in South Africa. For more information contact Tammy Smith at 021-506-4567 or 073-200-6980

People make our name

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



SA’s first Cannabis testing laboratory at Afriplex Afriplex has established a dedicated Cannabis Laboratory. This facility meets the requirements for high quality Cannabis-related processing and testing, as prescribed by SAHPRA and created by the emerging Cannabis industry in South Africa.


he Cannabis Laboratory’s capabilities have been developed over the last 18 months to bring our cannabis processing facilities up to regulatory standards set out by the National Department of Health and the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA). We have invested in a specialised team of experienced professionals and researchers to bring this laboratory online. It is our clear focus towards Cannabis and Cannabinoid testing that has resulted in the South African Cannabis Research Institute (SACRI) nominating the Afriplex Cannabis Laboratory as the laboratory of choice in South Africa. SACRI proudly represents the coalition between investors, producers, innovators, manufacturers, regulators and distribution centres maintaining the focus on the reliable, standardised, safe and regulated cannabis products for the use by patients in need. The incorporation of Afriplex’s services into its portfolio is a direct result of SACRI’s perspective on an ethical Cannabis industry.

COMPLIANCE AND CORRECT CONTROLS Wesgro, the official tourism, trade and investment promotion agency for Cape Town and the Western Cape, believes the medical Cannabis market has significant potential to boost the region’s economy. The Western Cape is moving fast to position itself as the country’s main hub for this new industry. The Afriplex Cannabis Laboratory includes an intricate security system and stringent Good Laboratory Practice (GLP) to ensure correct control throughout the facility. Documentation and an integrated Laboratory Information Management System (LIMS) keep track of arrival, storage, client and partner research projects; details of samples from seeds and plants right through to the development of Active Pharmaceutical Ingredients (APIs) and other extraction samples of Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), Cannabidiol (CBD) and Cannabinol (CBN).

REPRODUCIBLE AND EFFECTIVE Robert Longrigg, Afriplex’s Responsible Pharmacist says: ‘The Afriplex Cannabis


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

Laboratory takes on a three tiered approach: receiving, identifying and processing; end product analysis and finally research and development. The processing laboratory is set up to ensure reproducible and effective Cannabis products to the market.’ Quantitative assays using GC-MS, GC or HPLC will be used to ascertain the volume of THC, CBD or CBN in the respective identification samples. Afriplex will make use of existing libraries of identification markers and create new ones to identify the stock arriving at the facility. Samples from the final powders, tinctures, oils and APIs will be tested in the Afriplex Cannabis Laboratory for stability, quality, reliability and reproducibility in the same manner Afriplex prides itself in its current Quality Control Laboratories.

INNOVATIVE MEDICATIONS ‘Afriplex will utilise and build partnerships with our clients, South African universities, medical practitioners, pharmaceutical companies, SACRI and other international medicinal plant specialists,’ says Wayne Robinson, Afriplex Business Development Director. ‘Together we will be able to run pharmaceutical, clinical trials on various Cannabinoid products and Afriplex developed Cannabis APIs to create new, innovative and patient specific medications.’ The advanced innovation of the new Cannabis Laboratory establishes Afriplex’s footprint in the developing market of regulated Cannabis production, distribution and research. The laboratory is just another manifestation of Afriplex’s ethos and our belief in quality medicinal products for the health benefits of South African patients. • | +27 (0)21 872 4976 +27 (0)86 578 1305 | Afriplex Pty Ltd

Afriplex Pty Ltd



An estimated 120 new products have become available online in the past six months. The Afriplex Cannabis Laboratory has tested samples of many of these products to find not only no traces of Cannabis components, but also high levels of toxic solvents, pesticides and insecticides. ‘The danger is not the Cannabis but the unsafe levels of contaminants,’ says Afriplex MD, Danie Nel. ‘The public is unaware of this and is being exploited by unscrupulous operators. It’s the Wild West out there; a complete free for all.’

The new Cannabis Laboratory establishes Afriplex’s footprint in the developing market of regulated Cannabis production, distribution and research


business shares 0-year-old 1its0secrets to success W.Last is a trusted supplier of premium extracts. Although the company’s history dates back to 1907, it’s been prepared to change throughout the years to stay relevant in the pharmaceutical, complementary medicines and food industries.


.Last has been in business for

‘We have over 20 years’ experience in

more than 100 years. In the

extracting herbal and homeopathic

’70s, it pioneered the Health

starting materials. Dealing with customers

Products Association and

on a daily basis has given us insight into

managed to register over 2 500 ingredients

which products work and which don’t,’

with the authority.

Glenn comments. ‘There is definitely a

‘Many of the extractions we

gap in the market for botanical extracts

manufacture today meet the original

that taste good and outperform

regulatory requirements and are sold with

conventional tinctures. We’ve

the original ingredient registrations,’ says

invested heavily in cutting edge

Glenn Ferguson. ‘We believe we are the

technologies to meet market

only company in South Africa that can

demands and believe W.Last is

extract botanicals in a variety of extraction

the only company on the African

media. Historically, we’ve used ethanol,

continent using ultrasonic technology

just like many other companies. Yet

for mainstream botanical herb extraction.’

W.Last is at the forefront of hydroglycerol extraction, which is both ethanol- and

Diversified to supply

sugar-free, and propylene glycol extracts

Prior to 2018, W.Last primarily

used primarily in the perfume, cosmetics

manufactured and distributed

and vape industries.’

homeopathic products to many of

With its rich history and decades of

South Africa’s leading pharmaceutical

experience, the W.Last team strives to

contract manufacturers. Last year, it

produce products of timeless quality.

was decided the focus of the company

The company is still family owned and

needed to be redirected.

managed and is currently owned and

‘We have always manufactured a good

managed by the Ferguson’s. Glenn

quality herbal tincture but needed this

oversees product development and

to become our speciality. So, we have

customer relations, Lance Moore

aligned ourselves with many leading

handles quality control and regulatory

contract manufacturing companies,

affairs, Deryk Ferguson is the production

supplying them with raw materials in the

manager and Julie Ferguson handles

form of herbal tinctures and homeopathic

marketing and advertising.

remedies,’ Glenn says. ‘By focusing on


W.Last is involved in gin flavouring and Vanilla extraction. If regulations allow for it, Cannabis extraction may become a future market for W.Last, though it has not been able to proceed with it to date, due to current legislation.

this specialist area of business, W.Last has diversified from a small contract manufacturer to sought after supplier of raw materials.’ If the company did not continually innovate and change direction, Glenn says it would have gone out of business many years ago. Changing its focus to botanical extracts is no different. Glenn believes W.Last is well positioned to supply local and international market with quality, locally produced extracts, using a clean, energy efficient and environmentally friendly process.

Extraction innovation Ethanol based extractions have been manufactured in relatively the same way for more than 200 years. Although an

The W.Last team

ethanol based tincture is highly stable and has many favourable characteristics, the taste is unpleasant and a high ethanol percentage is not suitable for children and many religious groups. To overcome these challenges, W.Last has developed an ethanol-free, sugar-free liquid extraction. Glenn explains: ‘Initial trials where favourable but the extraction period


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review


August 1942 The late Willem Last purchased Flemmings Chemist from a Mr Patterson.



Mid 1960


Willem Last was joined by his son Jan Last in the business.

W.Last Chemist moved to 69 Joubert Street after the Tower building premises became too small. During this period, W.Last Chemist grew steadily and became well known in homeopathic circles.

The name of the business was changed to W.Last Chemist and its focus shifted to being a homeopathic pharmacy, making it the first homeopathic pharmacy in the Transvaal.

Wilhelm Venter snr joined W.Last Chemist after completing his master’s in pharmacy at Potchefstroom University.

1977 – 1978

Sanctions, import restrictions and the falling Rand made importing increasingly difficult. During the late seventies, W.Last started importing medicating tinctures from Ainsworth’s Pharmacy in London, UK, instead of pre-medicated tablets and granules from Nelson’s. Tablets, granules and liquids were then medicated locally, which allowed W.Last Chemist to keep up with the demand for remedies while keeping the prices affordable.


Willem Last also passed away, leaving Wilhelm Venter snr to continue with the business. Although he became a well-respected figure in the homeopathic community, the Rand value continued to fall, making it less viable to import complex remedies from Reckeweg, Schwabe and Madaus. So, he decided to concentrate on single remedies.



Wilhelm Venter jnr immigrated to Canada and sold all his shares to Glenn. All aspects of manufacturing and distribution were moved to a centralised location in Joburg.

was prohibitively long which made

materials, need to wait long lead times for

the commercial viability unlikely. So,

international deliveries.

we searched the world for suitable

‘We hold stock of a large variety and

technologies and came across ultrasound

large volumes of botanicals and have over

from Hielscher in Germany. Hielscher

350 extractions in stock. If we don’t have

assisted us with customising a machine

the volume to meet the customer’s needs,

and extraction methodology that yields

we will immediately manufacture the bulk,

an extraction 20 percent stronger than

which takes less than a week on average,’

conventional methods and in a fraction of

says Glenn.

the standard time.’ The herbal starting materials as well as


Lance Moore joined W.Last as the responsible pharmacist.


Today, W.Last is located at 40 True North Road, Mulbarton, Joburg.

Mthokozisi Mbatha, W.Last's production supervisor

Customers not only benefit from a much but also have the advantage of the full shelf

party laboratory. As a result, W.Last has

life of the extract. ‘We are approached by new customers

methodology and test the strength of

daily, needing botanical extracts for new

extractions against previous standards.

projects. In less than 12 months, the business

The company has also developed an

W.Last Chemist relocated to Cape Town and opened a distribution office in Joburg, due to the continued degradation of the Joburg city centre and a saturated market.

shorter lead time when ordering from W.Last,

extracted materials are tested by a third been able to standardise an extraction


Jan Last passed away and Willem Last decided to sell all the shares to Wilhelm Venter snr.


Wilhelm Venter snr passed away suddenly. His wife Brenda Venter took over the reins until Wilhelm Venter jnr completed his pharmacy degree in 1992.


After completing his master’s in homeopathy, Glenn Ferguson became general manager of the distribution office. A decision was taken for the Joburg office to concentrate solely on manufacturing and wholesaling, while gels and creams were produced in Cape Town.

Wilhelm Venter snr becomes a partner in the business.

has expanded by over 40 percent and we

organic ethanol-free vanilla extract for

are hoping for more growth in the upcoming

export. ‘This was a very exciting project for

year,’ he adds.The business will likely move

us. After just a few weeks, we exceeded the

to new, bigger premises next year to allow

customer’s expectations and now supply

W.Last to further expand its capabilities. With

this extract as a bulk raw material for further

the strategic partnerships it has in place,

processing and packing,’ he comments.

W.Last will continue to grow, supplying

Nomvula Mashinini oversees the dispensary

customers with quality botanical extracts at

A growing business

a reasonable price, within short

W.Last is a small company with big

lead times.•

intentions to grow. It fulfils a gap in the market where customers, who require large quantities of botanical raw

W.Last –

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



The benefits of outsourcing pharma production Over the years, the contract manufacturing market has grown into a prominent and promising segment of the overall pharmaceutical industry. Since 2000, close to 150 new contract manufacturers have been established worldwide, offering cost-efficient solutions to several industry stakeholders.


A liquid’s filling pharmaceutical production line

he present pipeline of pharmaceutical products is increasingly complex and requires specialised facilities,

equipment and operational expertise. Small molecule drugs account for nearly 90 percent of the therapeutics in the global pharma market. In 2017, the US FDA’s Center for Drug Evaluation and Research

Many smaller brand owners and certain pharma giants outsource a significant part of their business operations to contract packers

exorbitant. It’s also difficult for

are known to offer significant

companies with limited finances and

cost benefits, have access to

capacity constraints to succeed

larger production capacities and

by themselves in a manufacturing

reductions in time to market.

environment, especially in South Africa approved 34 small molecule drugs.

where labour issues and increasing

A fragmented market

This represents an annual growth

electricity tariffs are challenges.

The current global pharma contract

of nearly 56 percent, signifying the

These constraints have led many

manufacturing market is highly

growing importance of contract

smaller brand owners and certain

fragmented but characterised by

manufacturing in the overall

pharma giants to outsource a

multiple acquisitions and mergers

pharmaceutical industry.

significant part of their business

as stakeholders strive to broaden

operations to contract packers.

their respective service portfolios.

These third party service providers

This has enabled several contract

The costs associated with acquiring manufacturing capabilities are

Remancos P&C 177x65mm Quarter page copy.pdf



10:51 AM

to page 30


Remancos Nature is our business |

Formulation Development In-house Laboratory Stability & Safety Testing Blending & Filling

• • • •

Production Manufacturing Plant Creative Product & Graphic Design Team Bottle & Packaging Sourcing Marketing Consulting


we make your dreams a reality. Tel : +27 11 791 3757 | Cell: +27 745 648268 | Fax : 086 547 1959 ADDRESS:

Unit E2, Metropolitan Park, Wakis Ave. Strijdom park, Jhb. 2196 South Africa Email:


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

Manufacturing • Liquids - Syrups - Suspensions - Emulsions • Creams/ointments/gels • Powders/granules • Tablets (uncoated/sugar-coated/film coated) • Capsules • Caplets • Lozenges

Packing • Blister and strip packing of capsules, tablets, softgel caps and caplets • Sachet filling- liquids, powders, cream and ointments • Tube filling (aluminium, plastic and laminated) • Shrink-wrapping • Filling (creams, powders, liquids) • Flowpac/pillow packing of various products • Tablet/capsule packing into containers • Aerosol filling

Laboratory Services Fully Equipped stability laboratory offering: • Stability tests • Research & Development

Confidentiality The company enforces a strict confidentiality code. Full documentation accompanies all work.

Certification MCC Licence; GMP Certificate; ISO 9001:2008 and ISO 22000:2005

WRAPSA (PTY) LTD Tel: +27 (0) 12 653 0347/8 | Fax: +27 (0) 12 653 0857


manufacturers to offer end to

short to mid-term and long

end services, ranging from drug

term, for the period 2018

development, including preliminary

to 2028.

R&D, preclinical and clinical trials, to

The report also provides the

commercial scale production and

likely distribution of the market

regulatory filings.

based on:

Despite the pharma industry being

• the type of business

among the most highly regulated

segment, be it active

industries, analysts expect the demand


for core competencies to continue to

ingredients (APIs) or

drive sponsor companies to outsource various parts of their manufacturing

finished dosage forms (FDF) • regional evolution of the

operations. Amidst tough competition,

market covering North

the availability of advanced tools

America (the US, Canada

and technologies is an important

and Mexico), Europe (Italy,

differentiating factor. This will provide a

Germany, France, Spain,

competitive edge to certain contract

the UK and rest of Europe), Asia-Pacific

packers over other stakeholders in the

(China, India, Japan, Australia and rest

industry. However, given the ongoing

of Asia) and rest of the world

innovation in production technologies

• type of API product (branded

and the steadily evolving pipeline

and generic) within the afore

of small molecules, the pressure on contract manufacturers is expected to increase in the coming years. In order to cope with the evolving demand,

Pharmaceutical capsules in production

mentioned regions • type of FDFs manufactured (solids, liquids or semi-solids and injectables) • type of packaging forms, including

tracks of the market's evolution. For more information about this report, visit •

REGULATED MANUFACTURING The pharmaceutical industry is one of the

contract manufacturers

tablet, capsule or blister packing;

world’s most highly regulated industries thanks

will likely be required to devise and

ointment, gel or tube; vial, ampoule,

to the active role of regulatory authorities.

implement different business strategies

sachet, pouch or bag; glass or plastic

According to the second edition of the Research

and models.

bottle and pre-filled syringe

& Markets report entitled Pharmaceutical

• scale of API manufacturing (clinical,

An informed estimate

commercial and both)

Contract Manufacturing Market 2018 to 2028, 79 percent of contract manufacturers have received

One of the key objectives of Research

• size of manufacturers (small,

operational approval and certification from the

& Markets Pharmaceutical Contract

mid-sized, large and very

US FDA. This is followed by those manufacturers

Manufacturing Market 2018 to 2028

large companies).

that have received operational approval from

report was to evaluate the current

To account for the uncertainties

the European Medicines Agency (33 percent),

opportunity and future potential

associated with the growth of

World Health Organization (30 percent) and

of the pharmaceutical contract

the pharmaceutical contract

the UK Medicines and Healthcare products

manufacturing market over the

manufacturing market and to add

Regulatory Agency (20 percent). In addition,

coming decade.

robustness to the research model,

several contract manufacturers have sought or

Research & Markets has provided

received operational approval and certification

report provides an informed estimate of

three forecast scenarios, portraying

from regulatory bodies in other regions such as

the likely evolution of the market in the

the conservative, base and optimistic

Australia, Brazil, China, Canada, India and

Based on various parameters, the

South Africa.

Taking responsibility

for providing quality service. MJ Labs is a contract manufacturer and packer for complementary medicines, health supplements, cosmetics and vitamin fortification. This is done in capsule, powder, cream, liquid, tablet and sachet form for human use. New machinery has been introduced which includes a blister pack machine, tablet coating machine and an effervescent tablet packing machine.

Contact us on 0128048966 or e-mail for any queries.


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

VITAL HEALTH FOODS CONTRACT MANUFACTURING SOLUTIONS At Vital, we are more than just a contract manufacturer. Our plant is a world class producer of Complementary Medicines and Health Supplements. We offer a full turnkey solution with a fully integrated Quality Assurance system. We are backed by cGMP accreditation (from SAHPRA, the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority), integrity, trust, quality, innovation and a high standard of service excellence & communication. Our areas of expertise include but is not limited to: • Soft-gel capsules, two part capsules, coated/uncoated tablets, liquid and powder manufacturing • Various forms of packaging options – doy, glass, plastic, blister, fill form & seal • Regulatory Experts • Research & Development: Formulation • Research & Development: Analytical • Quality Assurance • Quality Control

For more information, please contact us at: Telephone: +27 21 900 2500 Email: Website: Address: Lavender Lane, Kuils River, Cape Town 7580



| MARCH 2019 | P C Review


New JHB distribution terminal for UPM Raflatac A leading global supplier of selfadhesive label stock, UPM Raflatac has opened a new slitting and distribution terminal in Johannesburg.


Shaun Johnson, director: EMEIA service and logistics at UPM Raflatac; Rui Nozes, advisor: financial affairs, trade policy, public diplomacy and communications of the Embassy of Finland and Ralph Bhengu

genuine products,’ Bhengu adds. ‘Our anti-counterfeiting products incorporate specific properties in the face material. Although the nature of these properties is diverse,

he grand opening of the new

they have a common goal: making

terminal, which will supply

the life of counterfeiters difficult thanks

innovative and sustainable paper,

to features that are tricky to reproduce yet

film and specials products to label

easy to check by legitimate end-users.’

converters in sub-Saharan Africa, was celebrated on 7 February. Over 100 guests from around South Africa

‘With the new terminal, we will be

A sustainable choice

and neighbouring countries, including

better equipped to meet customer and

For personal care, cosmetics and home

customers and local trade media, joined

market demands for high quality products

care applications, UPM Raflatac’s new

UPM Raflatac for the commemorative event.

with enhanced service. It improves our

Vanish PCR line of ultra thin clear film labels

competitiveness and better positions UPM

are produced with 90 percent recycled

area with highest growth potential in the

Raflatac as a leading label supplier throughout

content face and liners. According to

region. Located in Germiston, the new

Africa,’ says Ralph Bhengu, country sales

the company, this is a global first for

terminal features one

manager of UPM Raflatac South Africa.

sustainable packaging. These no label,

Johannesburg is the largest market

and two metre wide slitting capabilities. The new terminal is part of UPM Raflatac’s strategy to improve, adjust and consolidate the company’s operational and service platform in South Africa. The company’s former Joburg


Solutions for pharma At Pharmapack 2019 in Paris, on 6 and 7 February, showcase its

UPM Raflatac’s RafCycle service gives new life to self-adhesive label waste, which would otherwise be sent to landfill or incineration.

and Durban operations have been relocated to the new terminal,

look labels allow brand owners to increase their sustainability measures without sacrificing label performance. More and more iconic global and local

comprehensive range of security

brands are setting ambitious targets

labelling solutions for pharma

for incorporating recycled content in

and healthcare packaging. The

their packaging materials. ‘These labels

range includes a reliable tamper

are already commercially available

evident label offering for cartons

in South Africa and specified by some

and unique identification track and

of the leading cosmetics companies,’

trace labels.

concludes Bhengu. •

‘The goals of security labelling are to

while the Durban sales office was relocated

hinder tampering of genuine goods, to limit

to a new address in Durban. UPM Raflatac

production of counterfeit products and to

also has a terminal in Cape Town.

facilitate the identification and tracking of

UPM Raflatac South Africa –

Trim size – 65mm (H) x 177mm (W)

IF THERE ‘S A WAY TO STAND OUT... WE’LL FIND IT! Experts in Shrink Sleeve, Wrap Around & Pressure Sensitive Labels For further information on how we can help build your brand contact our Project Developement team on Tel 031 502 5050 T: 031 502 5050 E:

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



Look beyond cleansing to elevate your brand Bath and shower products and bar soaps are an essential part of maintaining daily hygiene and can be found in nearly every household. The backbone of this category of products is surfactants, which are vital to the personal care industry.


ver the past two years, global sales in the bath, shower and body

care category have increased steadily due to innovation in a number of areas. These include novel ingredients for sensitive skin and product formats


Whamisa, a natural and planet

owner’s belief that consumers need

friendly K-beauty brand,

to live more consciously, to slow their

uses a signature waterfree formula based on botanical extracts

In 2017, Google said ‘bathing is back’. The search engine called the category one to watch with more and more consumers moving towards DIY beauty products for bath, shower and body care applications.

which, according to Mintel, go beyond the functional cleansing

pace, be mindful of their footprint and take care of the earth that provides for them. The collection includes a night

(instead of traditional

time bath concentrate, temple balm

purified water)

and body oil skin care products and

and fermentation

ingestible infusions for an inside-out


sleep care routine. Key ingredients

At least 80 percent of the workforce

at Beco, the Better Considered brand, are either

include established sleep-aiding herbs roman chamomile and St John’s wort, in addition to trending Cannabis sativa. In South Africa, bath and body

and moisturising benefits to offer an

visually impaired, disabled or

innovations use indigenous African

element of fun, or unique sensory and

disadvantaged. The company

ingredients to add value. Rain Africa’s

wellness benefits.

produces eco, natural and vegan

g range uses rich, ancient African

products. Its hand wash saves 88ℓ of

ingredients. The newer male grooming

and Europe often attempt to recreate

water per bottle compared to liquid

‘g range’ includes a Kalahari melon

the spa experience, and in Africa,

hand wash.

and olive oil soap on a rope.

Bath and shower products in the US

Mintel expects to see more disruptive,

Rosalia Di Gesu, Mintel’s global

The Woolworths Ingredients soap

eco-friendly innovations to emerge in

beauty and personal care analyst,

bar collection is available in variants

2019. In particular, there is a gap for

also notes in the 2019 report, ‘there

that showcase indigenous African

more concepts that focus on saving

is scope for more soap, bath and

botanicals such as rooibos and

water with waterless formulations

shower products that aid sleep, to

honeybush, and marula and

or easy rinse, low foam formulas;

appeal to those who seek more

fynbos honey.

which limit plastic waste; incorporate

holistic ways to de-stress and rest

sustainable palm oil or sugar based

the body and mind’. This is mainly

Surface active agents

surfactants; or those that tap into the

because bathing is commonly

Because shower gels and body washes

vegan and clean label trends.

perceived as a relaxing activity.

have come to represent a significant

Bamford B Silent is an organic

part of the bath and body care market,

Inspiration for innovation

collection of bath and body

there is an increased demand for

There are some stunning bath and

products born out of the brand

skin friendly ingredients and milder

body brands that direct the trends and have become guideposts for innovation. Some of these are featured in Mintel report entitled A year of innovation in soap, bath & shower, 2019. The limited edition Esteny Bath Salt

34 to 62%

of soap, bath and shower launches in Europe, in 2018, had a natural (62%) or eco (34%) claim


of soap, bath and shower launches in the MEA region, in 2018, featured whitening claims versus three percent globally, rising to 44% of launches in Nigeria

Body Heat bath additive embodies the active beauty trend. It is formulated with a spice ginger scent, chili extract and ginger rhizome to promote perspiration and provide a ‘hot yoga’ experience.


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review


chassis ingredients and multifunctional formulations. To help formulators fulfil these

EOC Surfactants ultra mild anionic surfactant, Eurasol KCO is a green detergency and cold processable liquid

demands, Savannah Fine Chemicals,

soap derived from coconut and olive

through its international principal EOC

oils. It shows good cleansing and foam

Surfactants, offers a range of high quality

control properties, is suitable for use in

surface active agents, some of which are

natural liquid soaps and as additive in

Eco-cert and Cosmos approved. These

body cleansing formulations. Eurasol

ingredients are mild, of natural origin

KCO is palm oil and palm kernel oil free,

and ideal for use in liquid foaming and

preservative free, easy to handle and has

cleansing personal care formulations.

natural moisturising properties.•

The amphoteric, non-ionic and anionic surfactants help with designing the backbone of bath and shower gel formulations by optimising rheology, fine tuning foam structure and

EOC Surfactants – Savannah Fine Chemicals –

imparting mildness. One example is the liquid rheology modifier, Euroflow 100, which is preservative free and designed to give cleansing formulations suspending, stabilising and thickening properties. It is particularly useful for thickening sulphate free systems.

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



Antimicrobial solutions from nature A-Leen Aroma-3 and E-Leen Green A are two new universal solutions from Minasolve, represented in South Africa by Orkila.


-Leen Aroma-3 is a mild

allergens and harsh preservatives,’ says

Skin moisturiser

perfuming agent while E-Leen

Emmanuel Peulens, CEO at Minasolve.

E-Leen Green A is water soluble up to

Green A is a skin moisturiser and skin conditioner based

Fragrance agent

three percent, making it ideal for clear, water based products. It combines Pentiol

on the multifunctional compound,

A-Leen Aroma-3 is the first fully nature

Green+ with lipophilic phenylpropanol,

bio-based pentylene glycol. This

derived version of phenylpropanol – a

so it remains predominantly in the water

multifunctional compound is marketed by

fragrance component found in the

phase of emulsions. This also contributes

Minasolve as Pentiol Green+. It also acts

natural aromas of flowers and fruits. It

to its broad antimicrobial effect, which is

as an antimicrobial boosting agent that

brings a mild and pleasant scent to body

achieved regardless of the pH value.

naturally protects cosmetics. It inhibits

care products. A key advantage of this

‘A unique ingredient, E-Leen Green

the growth of microbes in a formulation

perfuming agent is its broad spectrum

A represents the synergistic combination

and is an innovative alternative to

antimicrobial activity that helps protect a

of a humectant and a fragrance

petrochemical-based preservatives,

wide variety of formulations from microbial

and is completely nature derived,’

which can be harsh and unfriendly to the

degradation – even at high pH-levels.

comments Minasolve’s technical director,

skin and the environment. ‘Both A-Leen Aroma-3 and E-Leen

The perfuming agent is produced

Markus Nahrwold. •

using Cassia essential oil, which

Green A are ready to use solutions

is traditionally obtained by steam

developed in response to consumer

distillation from the leaves and

demand for safer, milder and nature

branches of the Chinese cinnamon tree,

based cosmetics free of fragrance

Cinnamomum cassia.

Minasolve – Orkila South Africa –

Crest Chemicals Product Offering

Contact us: Johannesburg +27 (0)11 245 3300, Cape Town +27 (0)21 534 3140, Durban +27 (0)31 902 5324, East London +27 (0)43 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth +27 (0)41 453 1981


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review


Cosmetics essential to Marchesini’s growth

The 2019 calendar of Marchesini is full of activities and anniversaries, with the group taking part in various events and trade shows. First up, Marchesini is preparing for Cosmopack, taking place in Bologna, Italy from 14 to 17 March.


archesini will demo a filling and closing line for squeezable


tubes at Cosmopack,

alongside two stand-alone Dumek machines. The cosmetics packaging

line is a Marchesini evergreen solution.

creamy products, such as cream/

linear filling-closing model Mill 120

milk emulsions, serums, oils and balms,

with Robovision and a cartoner

gels and lotions. Specialised versions

model, MA 155, which offers

are also available to process makeup

newly designed guards and

formulations, such as mascara and

panelling, innovative electric and

foundation; hair dyes; toothpastes and

pneumatic systems, as well as new

mud products.

components to comply with today’s

Marchesini will market its new beauty

high safety standards. These and

division at the tradeshow. The division

other Marchesini equipment are

is located near its headquarters in

available in South Africa from

Pianoro, Italy where Dumek machines are

MGSA Projects.

produced. It is already up and running and boosts the group’s competitiveness in

Process technology Two Turbo-Mek turbo-emulsifiers, one for laboratory use and the other for mass industrial production, will feature at the expo, to showcase the Dumek brand. The vacuum turbo-emulsifiers are

Marchesini’s automatic linear filling-closing model, MILL 120 with Robovision

Dumek’s core machines. They are designed to produce liquid and

TO BE CONSTANTLY AT THE FOREFRONT OF TECHNOLOGY EFFICIENCY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE an expanding market. The beauty division will become increasingly important within Marchesini’s strategic plans. •

Marchesini – MGSA Projects –





MGSA PROJECTS MGSA PROJECTS(PTY) (PTY)LTD LTD Mobile +27 (0) 82 460 2766 +27 (0) 82 460 2766


P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



Capture the essence of your brand with Iberchem The international fragrances and flavours manufacturer, Iberchem is continuously expanding its footprint in key markets. Its new commercial office in South Africa is set to boost the company’s already strong presence in the country while catapulting its expansion in east and west Africa. By Abby Vorster projects, which is a very good sign,’ says Gardner. ‘We are highly optimistic at the vast amount of development happening at local companies and will maintain Iberchem’s momentum in 2018 for another very good year for fragrances in the African market.’

Infrastructure to meet customers’ needs Iberchem employs a broad team of experienced perfumers, all offering a versatile expertise in fragrance development. Their experience is a distinctive asset and competitive advantage Iberchem’s commercial team in South Africa: Beverley Gardner, Margaret Reynolds (back) and Mishkah Moyce


ince its foundation,

from which its clients directly benefit. which trends emerge. These are some


of the reasons why, in line with its 2020 expansion plan to grow its footprint in emerging

markets, Iberchem Of the 650 employees at Iberchem, 50 percent are chose to establish a contributed to women. A great majority of commercial office in the success the head office management South Africa. of countless brands team are also women, who In November 2018, by engaging emotions work in production, shipping, Beverley Gardner was across the world. The fragrance evaluation, regulatory affairs appointed head of sales. company specialises in the and R&D. Mishkah Moyce (ex-Symrise) creation of fragrances for fine Iberchem has

fragrance, personal care, home

and Margaret Reynolds (ex-

Its constant investments in R&D also ensure Iberchem remains abreast of the latest advances in the industry, using modern technology to offer competitive solutions. In South Africa, Iberchem will leverage the existing infrastructure and support of the Versachem facility, which includes ample warehousing space and regular shipments, to shorten lead times and respond to customers’ needs much faster. Headquartered in Centurion, Versachem has been operating successfully in South Africa since 2006. Iberchem acquired 70

care, fabric care and air care products.

SymScent) have also recently joined

percent of the South African business in April

Thanks to its optimal size, Iberchem

Iberchem in South Africa, bringing their

2018 to expand the footprint and capabilities

has the agility and proximity of a local

extensive experience in the fragrance

of its flavours division.

provider strengthened by the benefits

and personal care industries to the

and savoir-faire of a global company

new commercial office.

‘Worldwide, Iberchem operates as a customer centric business,’ Gardner

with 20 facilities and eight production

Gardner, Reynolds and Moyce

plants, strategically located across the

have a positive outlook for the year

the company’s ongoing success and a

world. Iberchem also has a commercial

ahead thanks to Iberchem’s already

significant difference in the traditional

presence in over 120 countries.

established business in

approach to business in the South

the market, which is remarkable

African market. Iberchem is also highly

Local commercial office

considering there was previously no

flexible when it comes to pack sizes and

It’s been active in South Africa for several

dedicated team in South Africa.

will ship as little as one kilogram for a

years and has a strong understanding of local market dynamics and the pace at


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

‘We have built on Iberchem’s strong local presence with numerous pipeline

adds. ‘Customer satisfaction is key to

customer.’ The local commercial office will maintain the same focus on flexibility

FRAGRANCES 1985 Murcia, Spain 1990 Tunisia

1990 Singapore

Iberchem is passionate about customer service, creating fragrances in line with customers’ briefs and delivering solutions in unique ways

2000 Malaysia

2002 Shanghai, China

2011 Dubai, UAE

2012 Ethiopia

2015 Russia

2017 Ghana

2017 Mumbai, India

2003 Colombia 2017 Turkey Iberchem has application labs located in strategic centres worldwide

2009 Mexico

and agility as the global headquarters in Spain, which has remained

2018 Thailand

a family business for the past 34 years. The group’s motto is ‘no matter where you are in the world, you can count on Iberchem’ – even in Africa. Iberchem is also already thinking of the next steps to expand its presence in the region. This

2010 Italy

will include a stronger technical presence and additional customer support to provide brands with insightful solutions that maintain their magnetism and relevance. •

Iberchem –

2010 Amhedabad, India

2018 South Africa

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



Brands, scents and the direct selling market Scentsational Fragrances, a leading importer and distributor of high quality perfume oils, is firmly rooted at the heart of the South African cosmetics and perfume industries. The company has established a massive network of direct seller customers, who have transformed their lives thanks to the company’s support.


ith its team that has over 50 years’ combined knowledge of perfumery coupled with a young and

vibrant outlook of current industry trends,

At Scentsational, everyone has a voice

Scentsational Fragrances (Scentsational) covers all areas of excellence. The company supplies a wide variety

with fragrance layering, using two finished accentuates their personalities, emotions

new fragrances are received from our

and individual sense of style.’

it’s constantly keeping up with the newest

on their preferences.’ At Scentsational, being innovative means

market. If a customer is looking for a

lending a helping hand during tough

fragrance the company doesn’t stock,

financial times. The company runs specials

Scentsational will assist with trying to get

throughout the year to help its customers

a matching sample, which is sent to its

grow, despite challenges in the market.

‘We pride ourselves in going the extra

explains. ‘Consumers are also experimenting products to create a unique new scent. This

supplier, we even get our customers input

supplier to bring into the country.

Chanel No. 5 are still the biggest sellers,’ he

‘We are a family,’ Diamond adds. ‘When

of A grade oils. This list grows monthly as fragrances launched on the international

‘In our experience and specifically in our market, traditional fragrances such as

The company is also active on social media, Facebook particularly.

Taking a glimpse of what Scensational will look like in a year, Diamond says the company is heading upwards. ‘We are looking for bigger premises and are in the


mile and offering all round excellent

Scentsational uses this social media

service,’ says Dean Diamond, co-owner of

platform to remain visible in the market,

Reselling fragrances and body products is a

Scentsational. ‘We offer advice on mixing

communicate information and to advertise

multi-million Rand industry. Better known as

tips and tricks, as well as sales guidance

its products. This has worked in its favour,

direct selling, this market is backed by the

to new customers at no extra cost. We

especially where its customers are

personalised experience customers receive

make ourselves available at all times in the

supportive and active on its Facebook

when engaging with a direct seller to purchase

working day to give a helping hand. We

page too.

his or her products. Scentsational plays a crucial

value each customer no matter how big

role in the direct selling market by empowering

Trends and future focus

entrepreneurs to make a living, helping men and

One of the biggest global trends in the

women create new opportunities for themselves.

one individual who plays a key part in the

fragrance industry is the demand for

It does this mainly by waiving the surcharge most

business. Each employee is responsible to

eco-friendlier scents, which Diamond

companies usually place on purchases of smaller

the success of this business. Each brings a

says, use more natural ingredients such as

quantities of oils.

unique attribute and skill. In turn, this is why

sandalwood, lemon and bergamot.

or small. ‘We at Scentsational do not have just

we are where we are today. We all work towards the same goal and support each other along the way.’

Unique selling points At Scentsational, everyone has a voice. Employees’ views are sought out and listened to, because their opinions count and make a difference to the success of the business. A strong sense of listening and responsiveness permeates the organisation, so that when decisions are made, all staff give their input.


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

The team at Scentsational Fragrances



Scentsational Fragrances is established.



Operating originally out of a garage with three staff members, Scentsational Fragrances’ doors are opened for business. After six months, the business moved to larger premises due to growth.

Scentsational Fragrances moved to its first factory in Sebenza Edenvale, where the company is currently based. Its total number of staff is 14.


The company expands its product offering to include lotions, atomisers and new bottles.


The business kept growing making another move necessary.


Scentsational Fragrances is undergoing a complete revamp of the business and will soon reveal its fresh, modernised look. The company is also moving to new premises.

process of hiring sales representatives, both in Cape Town and Durban.’ Scentsational has also taken the initiative to get more involved in its community and with charities. ‘We will continue to make it our priority to stay relevant and to keep up with the trends of the perfume industry,’ concludes Diamond. •

Scentsational Fragrances –


S C ENT S Scentsational Fragrances was established in 2010, after founders Ann & Steve Diamond identified a growing demand for superior quality perfume oils and fragrances, soon after inception partnerships were developed with leading French oil manufacturers and Scentsational Fragrances has grown from strength to strength ever since. We are now rooted in the heart of the South African Cosmetic and Perfume Industry as one of SA’s Leading Perfume Oil Importers and Distributors. We offer a large variety of oils available to purchase from 100g, alcohol compound, lotions and a small range of bottles.

Head Office: 5A Ingwe Road, Sebenza, Gauteng T: 011 609 8499 | 011 452 3963 | 082 780 8853 vanessa@scentsational | |

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



Traditional themes re-energised By re-interpreting well-known concepts, Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA is bringing popular themes in the fragrance industry back to life.


ooking at 2019 fragrance trends,

compositions. Previously hidden facets of

change is infiltrating the cosmetics and

well-known themes with new

France, the new positive image of hemp,

home care segments.

interpretations will become very

inner peace and coral – the colour of

popular. Impulses can be found in

the year – all serve as inspirations for new

breathtaking landscapes found between

fragrance creations.

Brittany and the Côte d'Azur, lavender

various familiar concepts ranging from Vive la France to the Pantone Colour of the Year.

Focal points include the jewels of

in exciting variations, truffles and the

Rediscovering France

popularity of sea fennel and oleander. Both

Fragrances EMEA, the fragrance and

No other country stands for luxury and

plants, previously unused in cosmetics,

aroma house represented in South

elegance like France. French cuisine has

have become increasingly popular.

Africa by Fourchem, emphasises a

just undergone a revival thanks to the rise

distinctive sense essential to extraordinary

of young Michelin star chefs. This wave of

In its trend forecast, Bell Flavors &

Up to now, sea fennel was mainly found in gourmet kitchens. Its appearance is

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email

Sensetek.indd 1


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

2017/03/02 11:50 AM


Bell’s perfumers have been inspired by coral to create new compositions, ranging from summerymaritime notes to floral-powdery nuances

These days, the valuable and ornamental

enveloping the consumer in a soft layer

hemp plant is more present than ever in

of scent, harmonising body and mind.

the beauty industry. Personal care product

The holistic approach of this trend is

manufacturers are taking advantage of

applicable to personal care applications,

the beneficial properties of this natural

air fresheners and candles.

product, eliminating the parts of the plant

A dignified colour

containing THC. Hemp oil is said to strengthen the immune

The Pantone Institute named Living Coral

system and fight skin diseases. Rich in

as the Colour of the Year for 2019. Living

nutrients and vital substances, this product

Coral is a tone that best reflects the

is particularly recommended for sensitive

spirit of time. According to the Pantone

skin, as it could improve the skin barrier.

Institute, life-affirming coral red with golden

reminiscent of algae. The fresh yet bitter-

undertones shows the perfect combination

salty scent of the umbellifer is not only

A little luxury in life

of the natural and digital realities. It is a

perfect for personal care products, but

In this fast paced world, moments of

comforting colour found in nature and has

also detergents. Due to its exotic character,

relaxation are important. Fragrances

a vivid presence on social media.

sea fennel is primarily used on its own,

help consumers to find inner peace and

yet the opulent scent of oleander is often

to prioritise ‘me time’. Both fresh and

coral to create new compositions, ranging

found in combination with other nuances.

slightly spicy notes, which are also used

from summery-maritime notes to floral-

When combined with the notes of sparkling

in aromatherapy, are suitable for this

powdery nuances. These compositions are

champagne, the floral fragrance turns into

purpose. Soft and soothing fragrances,

ideal for cosmetics, fine fragrances and

a harmonious arrangement that provides

which are neither too sweet nor too

trendy home care products. •

refreshing variety in everyday life.

dominant are effective.

Hemp revamped

omnipresent role. The aim is to always

It was only a few years ago when the idea

create a well-balanced blend of relaxing

Bell’s perfumers have been inspired by

With ‘me time’, harmony plays an

Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA – Fourchem –

of Cannabis in cosmetics was taboo. They support the concept by FOURCHEM 130x177 hemp ad 2/22/19 10:08 AM fragrances. Page 1 C








P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



Excite the senses with IFF-LMR naturals

IFF-LMR, a subsidiary of International Flavors & Fragrances, gained FairWild certification for Peru Balsam from El Salvador, an ingredient used in perfumery. The certification recognises IFF’s commitment to sustainable harvesting processes and fair working conditions. has established a sourcing platform with two goals: 1. to improve the quality, transparency, and sustainability of ingredients sourced in the region while optimising the supply chain Balsam of Peru is an aromatic resin obtained from the balsam tree and used to fragrance perfumes and toiletries or to flavour food and drinks

to obtain full traceability 2. to develop new botanicals sourced in the region. IFF-LMR partners with producers in Madagascar to honour the rich biodiversity of the island and the tradition of producing perfumery ingredients. The subsidiary’s R&D team is deployed to improve aspects of yield and quality, including cultivation, harvesting, post-harvesting and the transformation of the crops. Its scientists


stablished in 2008, the FairWild

Bertrand de Preville, general manager

Foundation promotes the sustainable

of IFF-LMR comments: ‘Gaining FairWild

use of wild collected ingredients,

certification for Peru Balsam underscores

with a fair deal for those involved

our commitment to sourcing ingredients

partner with the botanical and extraction research departments at Madagascar’s Antananarivo University to identify breakthrough perfumery ingredients. These long standing relationships allow

throughout the supply chain. FairWild

responsibly, conserving natural resources

Standards ensure the continued use

and improving the livelihoods of farming

and long term survival of wild species

communities. IFF-LMR offers a portfolio of

and populations in their habitats, while

sustainable fragrance ingredients that

respecting traditions and cultures and

satisfy our customers’ needs and reduce

supporting the livelihoods of stakeholders.

our environmental footprint.’


complete, this will be the first FairWild

Honouring biodiversity

Certified natural extracts

certified fragrance ingredient to be

Africa is home to 25 percent of the world’s

While its ingredients portfolio features

commercially available globally.

botanical species. In Madagascar, IFF-LMR

a variety of renewable and sustainable

Once the Peru Balsam harvest is

IFF-LMR to share its botanical expertise and provide guidance on achieving the requirements of For Life, FairWild and Eco-Cert certifications for sustainable

Proudly appointed distributor of Symrise Fragrances and Cosmetic Ingredients Tel: +27 (0)11 791 0312 |


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

FRAGRANCES A balsam log worker from the El Salvador region in central America

Geranium Heart Oil. Three of IFF-LMR’s sites are


certified organic compliant; nine

There are several programmes in place that have transformed the way IFF-LMR sources ingredients and design its products

products have Eco-Cert For Life

BERNARDO JUAN FLEMING, trends marketing

certified supply chains; and the LMR

manager: fragrances for IFF, shares some of the key

Naturals headquarters is certified

market opportunities on his radar. ‘In South Africa

across the following five areas:

there is an increasing demand for natural, organic

• organic

and indigenously grown fragrance and body care

• Kosher

options that honour ancient beauty rituals and offer

• For Life – social responsibility • ISO 9001:2015 • ISO 14001:2015 for quality and environmental management.

Optimised classics

many benefits. A rapidly growing, younger, health conscious, middle class consumer base is driving the demand for masstige, affordable, aspirational products inspired by the scents and landscapes of the region.’ Fleming believes there is an untapped opportunity in this emerging market, heavily influenced by a

The outputs from the Madagascar

digital and eco-conscious mindset, for offerings that

platform enable IFF-LMR to offer the

pay homage to the region’s abundance of natural

options that satisfy customers’ needs, there

industry a pipeline of classic yet new

ingredients and to the thriving, timeless cultural

are several programmes in place that

optimised naturals such as LMR Naturals’

practices, strengthening and perpetuating both to a

have transformed the way IFF-LMR sources

Pepper Black Oil, Ylang Absolute, Ginger

much wider, global audience.

ingredients and design its products.

Oil Fresh, and Cinnamon Essential, all

LMR Naturals has an industry leading position with 90 natural extracts in the

home grown on the island. Cinnamon is one of the emblematic

portfolio certified vegan by EVE, the Expertise

plants of ‘the isle of spices’. Working

Vegan Europe group. The certified extracts

closely with its partners, IFF-LMR

include Rose Essential, Ylang Oil Complete,

introduced Cinnamon Essential to

Vetiver Oil Haiti, Patchouli Oil Indonesia and

the industry in 2015. This completely

new natural product contains all of the scented molecules from the fresh cinnamon bark. •


P C Review | MARCH 2019 |



Nature’s bounty celebrated! To achieve a sustainable future, Symrise believes it is imperative to protect the environment and the communities contributing to its prosperity. These successes are made possible through the company’s commitment to continuous innovation and green chemistry.


ymrise works tirelessly to conserve resources and transform those

it uses to minimise its environmental impact. Every Symrise ingredient and formulation technology is a celebration of nature’s bounty and of the people who work with them.

Symrise optim reaction va ises the various tempera riables, such as duration, toture, pres sure and prod floral scentsuce the best from pape by -product r s

These people include

optimise the various reaction variables, such as temperature, pressure and duration to produce the best results.’

the farmers who harvest land and the trailblazing scientists who harness nature’s finest qualities. Green chemistry is based on a set of principles

The beauty of orange peel The Jacksonville team has also designed and

that enable scientists to protect and benefit the

patented a truly green proprietary process for

economy, people and the planet. It uses renewable,

delivering l-Carvone from d-Limonene, a by-product

biodegradable materials and offers a strategic

isolated from orange peels, sourced from the

pathway to build a sustainable future.

beverage industry.

Almost all of Symrise’s large scale footprint,

Symrise’s unique process produces ultra pure

innovation, sourcing and care (FISC) achievements

l-Carvone, free from chlorides, nitrogen compounds,

wouldn’t be possible without its underlying

solvents and toxic reagents. This is achieved by using

commitment to the principles of green chemistry,

the most environmentally friendly production methods

from sourcing natural and renewable feedstock

possible, having developed a process that eliminates

wherever possible to drastically reducing the amount

millions of litres of wastewater annually.

of wastewater generated.

The end result is an ingredient that provides a refreshing, cool and minty taste to a range of

CST transformation

everyday oral care and confectionery products,

Working with the pulp and paper industry in south

while also embodying Symrise’s commitment to

eastern United States, Symrise utilises a by-product

sustainability and innovation.

called Crude Sulfate Turpentine (CST), which is created during pine tree pulping. Traditionally CST would have gone to waste. Symrise

Despite all of the company’s achievements to date, Symrise recognises the concept of sustainability is constantly evolving. As a result, it’s an ongoing

recognises the value of this by-product, utilising it in

journey for Symrise which it continues to tackle with

its aroma molecules facility in Jacksonville, Florida.

energy and urgency. •

The company’s innovative team of scientists and engineers have developed processes to transform the natural and renewable by-product into a range of high quality ingredients used in personal, beauty and

Symrise utilises unique and patented processes to transform by-products

home care products worldwide. Gene Kolomeyer, head of R&D at Symrise’s Jacksonville plant, has spent more than 20 years working on how to efficiently convert the terpenes from CST into value adding products. The process

It designs chemical processes that reduce waste and the demand on diminishing resources

starts with separating CST into its main components – alpha-pinene and beta-pinene. Further chemical transformation occurs thereafter, allowing Symrise to create valuable fragrance molecules that replicate those which naturally occur in rose,

Symrise creates renewable alternatives to fossil crude oil based feedstocks

geranium and lavender. Although generating floral scents from paper byproducts may sound like a minor miracle, in reality it boils down to a tireless scientific approach. ‘The

The company develops earth friendly ingredients, which touch consumers’ lives daily

basic material remains the same, with its 10 carbon atoms. We just modify and recompose it,’ explains Kolomeyer. ‘It isn’t magic – it takes expertise and hard work to define the right chemistry. We then


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

Symrise –

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: | 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028



The complexity of natural perfumes explained he cosmetics industry is facing

‘When we create a natural

on the impact of essential oils or

a consumer who is searching for

perfume, we have at our

truth and transparency. Modern

disposal a very limited

consumers wish to be certain of the

palette of raw materials,

composed of many

products they use and expect complete

deprived of synthetics.

molecules, some of which

transparency from brands.

This leave us without

can be allergenic. This

marine accords or

means allergens can be

The industry is in fact witnessing a wave of consumers turning towards natural

even musky accords for

products in the hope of eliminating so

example, which cannot be

called chemicals. Natural perfumes are

obtained naturally.’

evolving in the same way, reinforced by the

Perfumers must exhibit

absolutes found in perfumes. ‘Essential oils are

found in natural perfumes.’ These substances must Mé

lanie Carestia

appear on the label of cosmetics product when present in

aromatherapy trend – a medical method

imagination to facet their perfumes

the finished formula at certain levels to

that consists of healing with essential oils.

naturally. ‘Thanks to different terroirs, raw

inform the consumer. Between synthetic

materials develop particular accents. For

molecules and allergenic components,

Naturally complex

instance, the Bulgare or Turkish Damascena

it appears difficult to tell which

Natural perfumes were previously frowned

rose is naturally fruitier, whereas the

composition is safer.

upon by consumers because they were

centifolia rose from Grasse appears to be

perceived as uncreative. Yet, while working

warmer and sweeter,’ Carestia states.

around the diversity of natural products,

and security. •

perfumers are capable of manifesting their

Not necessarily safe

creativity. Mélanie Carestia, perfumer at

Are natural perfumes really safer than

Sozio, a Millchem principal, explains the

perfumes composed of synthetic

complexity of creating a natural perfume.

materials? Carestia explains this, based

THE NATURAL EXPERTS Nowadays consumer trends are searching for truth and transparency in the composition of the ingredients in products, resulting in a wave of consumers turning towards natural products and perfumes. Millchem, through our agency Sozio, are at the cutting edge of this trend and are experts in natural fragrances. Email for further information. JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

So, it is up to brands to decide their proposition in terms of naturality

Millchem – Sozio –


Honouring the students


n 4 February Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review joined

Coschem vice president, Kim MacCallum; immediate past president, Ivor Zwane and 2019 president, Rene Spada

Eileen Botes of DC Labs; Tiffany De Astui of Carst & Walker and Erica de Kock of Unicare Ingredients

Coschem’s education committee and its students at Gino’s Pizzeria for the Diploma in Cosmetic Science student prize giving.

Congratulations to all the students on completing Modules I and II, and to those who achieved top awards in their respective modules. These students are: • Top Module I student: Danielle Aucamp • Top Module II Student (the Jill Gardiner Award): Michelle Davies • Top Module II Project (the Norman Sanan Award): Serina Sowman • Top Module II Presentation (Sensient Technologies Most Creative Award): Nikita Venter. •

Helen Playdon of The Care Co. and industry consultant, David Bass

Ivor Zwane and Veronica Lintner, who received her long term membership certificate at the AGM

Danielle Aucamp and Roy Gardiner

Coschem’s 2019 council (absent: Ivor Zwane and Erica de Kock)

Serina Sowman and Roy Gardiner

Roy Gardiner received a presidential award from Ivor Zwane

AGM ushers in a new era for Coschem


he science of beauty is a remarkable thing. Why? Because the cosmetics industry has a huge impact on people’s lives. While the industry takes care of consumers, the Society of

Michelle Davies and Jill Gardiner

Nikita Venter and Jill Gardiner

Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) seeks to take care of the

industry in its professional capacity. At the Coschem AGM on 7 February, members and attendees witnessed the end of an era and the start of something new and exciting for the society. Roy Gardiner has stepped down in his capacity as treasurer and Jill Gardiner stepped down as education officer; both Roy and Jill will also no longer be on the council. With a new executive committee in place and new council members announced for 2019, Coschem has a great outlook for the year ahead. The society turned 42 this year, and while it is steeped in knowledge and industry expertise, it needs to be young at heart

Some of the Module I students who attended the prize giving

and agile to keep up with the times and be on par with change. As a result, there are some fresh faces on the 2019 council, who have great plans to make this a successful year for the society, particularly with the HPCI expo and Coschem Scientific Conference taking place in conjunction at Gallagher Convention Centre on 4 and 5 September. The Coschem council for 2019 includes: president, Rene Spada; vice president, Kim MacCallum; honorary secretary, Patricia Kruger; immediate past president, Ivor Zwane; honorary treasurer, Michael Butt; as well as Jacques Strydom; Lumbi Moyol; Amanda Dahl; Charmaine du Preez; Erica de Kock; Kudzai Gwazira; Samantha Pols;

Some of the Module II students who attended the prize giving

Percy Sibanda and Wayne van Wyk. •

P C Review | MARCH 2019 |


Tea time


De-stress and enjoy some colouring in with P C Review

Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Gayle Kihn Sales executive


+27 (0)82 457 0896

06 Agencies A-Thermal Retort Technologies ............. BASF Personal Care & Carst & Crest Chemicals......................................36 Croda SA ................................................ Dr IMCD SA ......................................... OFC/ ISW SHRINK............................................. Messe München South Africa .................. MGSA Millchem MJ


| MARCH 2019 | P C Review

Moco Packaging Omya....................................................... Savannah Fine Scentsational Fragrances........................ Sensetek Siyakha Imperial Printing Symrise Vital Health Wrapsa




Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the

Tel: 010 595 9690

cosmetics and toiletries industries.




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Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,

extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing

plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review March 2019  

The March edition of P&C Review features in-cosmetics Global highlights and exhibitors’ news, tips on how to innovate in the bath and body c...

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review March 2019  

The March edition of P&C Review features in-cosmetics Global highlights and exhibitors’ news, tips on how to innovate in the bath and body c...