Turku Times 1/2021

1 / 20 2 1

MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

IN THIS ISSUE Finland, paradise of crazy summer events Page 8

Sports in the time of coronavirus Page 10

Archaeological finds give glimpses of early pub culture Page 21

A column by Emmi Itäranta

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

What I dream about when I dream about coffee

1

Cafes & Restaurants

Clothing & Accessories

Health & Beauty

Specialty Stores

Entertainment & Electronics

Askartelu- ja leivontatarvikeliike Askartelu- ja leivontatarvikeliike

Inspiraatio Inspiraatio

Sports & Leisure

m y l ly

Banks, Insurance & Other Services

Groceries

Home & Decorating

Mylly is the largest shopping center in the southwest of Finland hosting more than 150 shops, restaurants and services only a 15-minute drive from the heart of Turku.

Nice days come to those who take it easy, as they say.

Bus lines:

220, 221 & 300 MYLLYNKATU 1, 21280 kauppakeskusmylly.fi

3€

0€

CONTENTS Thank you for choosing Turku! 6 Finland, paradise of crazy summer events 8 Sports in the time of coronavirus 10 Maps of Turku & Ruissalo Island 14 Hotels & hostels providing Turku Times 16 Turku timeline 18 Archaeological finds give glimpses of early pub culture in Turku 21 What I dream about when I dream about coffee – Column by Emmi Itäranta 25

Turku Times – Magazine for Visitors Issue 1/2021 "Summer" www.turkutimes.fi ISSN 2342-2823 (print) ISSN 2669-8285 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor in chief Roope Lipasti Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

8

10

21

25

Graphic design & layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover photos Vähätori square. Photo: Visit Turku Paavo Nurmi Marathon. Photo: Visit Turku Villa on the island of Ruissalo. Photo: Visit Turku The Tall Ships Races. Photo: Visit Turku Emmi Itäranta. Photo: Liisa Takala

Turku Times map application for mobile phones and tablets: www.turkutimes.fi.

The magazine is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Turku (see page 16). The next issue will be out in November 2021.

4

Need a cab? はい

oui!

da!

Haa!

是的

Yes!

да

jah!

si!

Kyllä!

Taxidata on Turun alueen suurin, turvallinen ja luotettava taksipalvelu.

Taxidata is the largest, safe and reliable taxi service in the Turku area.

Tilaa taksi aina numerosta 0200 10041

Always order a taxi from the number +358 200 10041

Puhelun hinta on 1,84 €/puhelu + pvm/mpm.

The price of the call is 1.84 € / local network fee + mobile phone payment

Voit myös ladata Book a Taxi sovelluksemme Google Play tai Apple Store -palvelusta

www.taxidata.fi

ja!

photo: Seilo Ristimäki / Visit Turku

Thank you for choosing Turku!

We warmly welcome you to our city. We

and operators to act sustainably by increasing demand for services that have the least possible impact on the environment.

It is natural that sustainability is most often viewed from an environmental perspective. Modern tourists also appreciate a destination’s sustainable way of maintaining the area’s cultural heritage. In Turku, our goal is to respect and strengthen local traditions, bringing the past into harmony with daily life in the modern world.

also want to do our best to make you feel comfortable and safe during your stay.

Tourism entrepreneurs and operators in the Turku region are strongly committed to health security, which takes into account hygiene and the well-being of customers. To implement these goals, we have created the Clean & Safe Turku operating model together with accommodation services, restaurants, event producers and the city’s own providers, such as museums, libraries, theatres and orchestras. Health-secure operators can be identified by the Clean & Safe Turku logo.

Health security is an important part of the sustainability of travel destinations. Both health security and sustainability are ideals that are now a permanent part of our daily lives – and it is a good thing.

Turku is the oldest city in Finland, where history and modernity combine in a fascinating way. You can enjoy the atmosphere of the past, for example, on a walk on both sides of the River Aura. The river that crosses the city has always been of great importance to Turku’s cityscape and even to the identity of the local residents.

A good starting point for a riverside cultural tour is Turku Cathedral, which was consecrated in the 14th century. As your journey continues towards the over 700-year-old Turku Castle, get to know Turku’s delicious food culture, a speciality which grows with the personal style of every new restaurant. Turku Market Hall is also a popular meeting place for gourmets. The atmospheric restaurants and boutiques of the 120-year-old market hall offer quality local food and are popular with tourists and locals alike.

You can also feel the lively and authentic cultural history of Turku by popping into Port Arthur, an idyllic neighbourhood of wooden homes with narrow cobbled streets. Towering over the residential area is the hill of Kakolanmäki, an area revitalised from the shadow of the fascinating 200-year history as a former prison compound.

The hill is now a trendy district under construction, where residents and visitors can already indulge in services such as a bakery, a coffee roastery and brewery, as well as a ‘lifestyle-hotel’ built within the former prison walls.

Sustainable tourism is not only safe but also ecologically, economically, socio-culturally and ethically sustainable. Tourism operators in the Turku region are widely committed to developing their operations and services.

They seek to become increasingly sustainable in accordance with the national Sustainable Travel Finland development path.

Sustainable tourism requires good cooperation from both tourism entrepreneurs and their customers.

The tourist’s responsibility begins at home when selecting a destination and means of transport. Values are shown by our choice of accommodation, activities and food. So you, dear tourist, have an important role to play in sustainable tourism. For example, you can push local businesses

In 2029, Turku will turn 800 years old. To warm up for this significant birthday, we celebrate the 10th anniversary of Turku as the Capital of Culture. In 2011, the explosion of cultural creations left a wonderful and lasting impression on our cityscape. So, come and join us to celebrate and discover the culture of Turku for yourself!

Anne-Marget Hellén Director of tourism 6

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photo: Joona Kotilainen

Reigning Heavy Metal Knitting world champions 2019: Giga Body Metal from Japan.

Finland, paradise of

crazy summer events

F

inland’s short summer gets people so amped up that every year we see dozens of world championships, each more outlandish than the last. Usually, they’re in some small town hardly anyone has ever heard of. And every summer there are new competitions as old ones fade away.

The clear favorite in this panoply of sporting mayhem is the throwing of various objects as far as one possibly can. Previous years’ lob-fests have included mouse pads, keyboards, mobile phones, and toilet paper tubes. The mosquito killing race was also legendary, but it had to be put down after some animal rights activists came out against it. That was all well and good, but everyone who has ever been to Finland, especially Northern Finland, knows that we aren’t in any danger of driving them to extinction.

Fortunately, there are plenty of great competitions left in the country. This summer, the COVID-19 situation may affect things, so if you plan to attend an event, make sure to check well in advance if schedules have changed.

In any case: Welcome to Finland’s Nonsensical Summer!

Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Owen F. Witesman

two dry obstacles. The wife being carried can be one’s own or on loan, but she must be more than seventeen years old and weigh at least forty-nine kilograms. If the wife is lighter than this, she may be outfitted with a backpack to bring her over the weight limit. To enter, just arrive an hour before the competition starts. www.eukonkanto.fi

Teat liner milk can throw Yes, you read that right. Sonkajärvi also excels in this event, which is organized in connection with the wife carry. A teat inflation liner is the part of a milking machine that is attached to the cow’s udder.

So the competition is to see which thrower gets the most teat liners into a milk can. For some reason, the competition rules stipulate than no one over the age of one hundred is allowed to participate. www. eukonkanto.fi/tonkkumin-mm-kisat

Scythe Harvesting World Championships Every summer in Liminganlahti, near Oulu, athletes line up to compete at mowing grass with a scythe. This traditional event requires speed, technique, and quality of the end result. For example, one’s technique cannot be too hunched over. The men’s division mows one hundred square meters, while the women’s division is limited to one half that area. www. liminka.fi

Wife Carrying One of the most famous Finnish summer hobbies is wife carrying.

The Wife Carrying World Championships are held every year in Sonkajärvi in Northern Savonia. The track is 253.5 meters, and along the way there is one water obstacle about a meter deep, as well as 8

Boot throwing

Summer ice fishing

Finland is known for Nokia, but before Nokia made mobile phones, they made rubber boots, which were both high quality and highly aerodynamic. The World Boot Throwing Championship began in Finland, but nowadays it’s an international pastime with its own sports federation. Because this is such an important competition, the rules are strict: men throw a size forty-three boot, and women throw thirty-eight. The event is freestyle, but the shaft of the boot must remain straight during flight. The longest throw recorded so far was sixty-eight meters. www. bootthrowing.net

Finland is a nation of ice fishermen, with thousands of people going out on lake or sea ice in the winter and drilling little holes to fish through. Some do this for hours every day, even at the risk of their own lives. Maybe that’s better than things at home? Or perhaps ice fishing is just beyond fun. However, the problem with this activity is that the ice is all gone by June at the latest, which makes ice fishing extremely difficult. But not to worry! Every year Pudasjärvi, in Northern Ostrobothnia, hosts a summer ice fishing event in which competitors take a sheet of Styrofoam, carve a hole in it, and fish through that. For ice anglers, none of this seems strange. www.pudu.fi/pilikkiviikko

Swamp football

Hay Pole Throwing World Championships

Relatively speaking, Finland is the swampiest country in the world, and Finland is also always crap at football, so no wonder we invented a version of the sport where we can almost hold our own. This is swamp football, where you play. . . in a swamp – in Hyrynsalmi in the Kainuu region, to be exact.

Up to 300 teams compete for the World Cup title – although unfortunately foreign groups enter now as well, so Finland winning isn’t a foregone conclusion anymore. Sadly. In good years, as many as 30,000 fans have descended on Hyrynsalmi, a town of 2,200, which is significantly more than bother to turn out for the Finnish national team. www. suopotkupallo.fi

In the old days, hay was placed on long poles to dry, but that hasn’t been done for decades, so the country is full of unused hay poles.

Fortunately, some inventive Finns have found a way to reuse them as javelins. Each year, Kannankoski in Central Finland puts on the Hay Pole Throwing World Championships. The javelin, usually a juniper hay pole, is quite heavy, up to 3.5 kilograms. Even so, in 2019, the farthest throw was thirty meters. www.mmkisat.com

Air Tango Finnish Championships Since 2006, the Seinäjoki Tango Festival has also included the Finnish Air Tango Championships. As the name suggests, this competition involves dancing the tango with an imaginary partner. So, this is especially suited to anyone who is single or shy. And for once you don’t have to worry about treading on anyone’s toes... www.tangomarkkinat.fi/kilpailut

Air Guitar Playing Playing the air guitar is perhaps the highest manifestation of musical virtuosity, so it’s no wonder that competitions in this noble art have been going on for a quarter of a century now. The Air Guitar World Championships are held in Oulu in August, drawing people from as many as twenty different countries.

The idea is to play along with music on an imaginary guitar.

Whoever has the best act wins. For once a competition where participation doesn’t depend on having the money to buy a proper instrument! www. airguitarworldchampionships.com

Sauna Whisk Throw A sauna whisk is a bundle of (usually) birch twigs with the leaves on, which Finns use to beat themselves in the sauna. This helps to increase circulation, spreads leaves everywhere, and creates a pleasant scent.

So why not also use a sauna whisk as sports equipment? The Sauna Whisk Throwing World Championships in Urjala in the Pirkanmaa region are a Midsummer event that has been held since 1997. Last year the longest throw sailed 13.5 meters. Whisks can be purchased at the event for five euro a piece, so you don’t have to bring your own. www.facebook.com/vihdanheitonmm

Heavy Metal Knitting Another event similar to air guitar is heavy metal knitting. This is sort of the mirror image of air guitar, where the idea is to knit with real knitting needles but to the beat of heavy metal music – for example, knitting behind your head the way Yngwie Malmsten plays guitar.

Attitude decides the winner. The competition is held in Joensuu, in North Karelia. Last time, a Japanese knitting team won. www.heavymetalknitting.com

Soapbox racing Finnish championships Soapbox race cars have no engines, so they can only be driven downhill.

In this event, organized for the first time in 2019 on Pyynikki Hill in Tampere, racers compete both for speed and personal style. www.pyynikinmakiautosm.fi

Berry picking

Beer floating

In Finland, Everyman’s Rights guarantee that anyone can go to any forest to collect berries and mushrooms – just for yourself or to sell.

Thirty-seven varieties of edible berries grow wild. The three most picked are bilberries, lingonberries, and cloudberries (in the North).

Berry picking is hard work and requires technique as well as a tolerance for mosquitoes. So, no wonder it can be turned into a competition! Every autumn, the town of Suomussalmi in the Kainuu region hosts the World Berry Picking Championships.

The main event consists of one hour of lingonberry picking, with divisions for individuals and teams. The record haul is seventy liters in an hour! www.arktisetaromit.fi

This isn’t actually a competition. Really, it’s the opposite. And while it may be one of the most unique summer events in Finland, it has been going on for twenty years now. Beer Floating is a day-long, unofficial event held in the Helsinki region, where a random number of participants float on all sorts of rafts and inflatable rings, swilling beer as they float on the Keravanjoki or Vantaanjoki rivers. The lack of an official organizer has not hampered the event’s popularity, because in recent years there have been thousands of floaters, including many tourists. The Beer Float is on the last weekend in July or the first weekend in August, depending on the vibe. www.kaljakellunta.org s 9

photo: George Grantham Bain collection at the Library of Congress

Johnny Aitken (left) at the Sheepshead Bay Speedway on May 13, 1916. Aitken died in 1918 of bronchopneumonia from the Spanish flu influenza pandemic.

Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Owen F. Witesman

Sports in the time of coronavirus

The COVID-19 pandemic has shaken the world to its core, and sports

have experienced their own share of disruptions. Competitions have been

F

postponed or canceled, and pursuing athletic activities has become more difficult. But one hundred years ago, we were in the same situation. or Finland it was the best of times and it was the worst of times: in 1918 Finland had just gained its independence but immediately after drifted into a bloody civil war. At the end of the war, the Spanish flu that had been ravaging the world hit Finland in four waves, the last coming in the winter of 1920. And then, as now, we attempted to

rein in the virus by reducing social contacts.

And then, as now, the restrictions provoked opposition. In Helsinki, for example, the city magistrate rejected a proposal to close cinemas because it was considered to be a disruption of people’s source of livelihood.

But the restrictions of a century ago differed from today, especially in how they applied to sports. Whereas recreational 10

photo: Museum Centre of Finland

WHEN THE LAST WAVE OF

THE DISEASE WAS OVER, THE ROARING TWENTIES BEGAN, USHING IN A PERIOD OF

EXUBERANT EXPANSION THAT

ONLY ENDED WITH THE COMING OF THE GREAT RECESSION.

VB&JS, The Vyborg Bandy and Football Club, won the Finnish Bandy Championship during the pandemic in 1919. The team won the title 14 times in 1914–1933.

opportunities are limited now, and, for example, the Finnish Elite number of Finns killed by the Spanish flu at as many as 27,000, which Ice Hockey League didn’t even finish their spring 2020 season, is fifty times more than COVID-19 has killed per capita. Researchers competition continued throughout the Spanish flu, and there were investigating this topic have been unable to provide an unequivocal virtually no restrictions on sporting events. Other public gatherings, answer, but in addition to a general lack of understanding at the on the other hand, were canceled and people were encouraged to time, differences in the role of sports in health promotion and civic avoid congregating. For example, bandy, essentially field hockey education come up frequently. A similar debate has now taken place, played on ice and the most popular winter team sport of the time, in particular about whether restrictions on team sports for children was played normally: “A total of twenty-four series competitions and young people have done more harm than good. have been held in Helsinki, demonstrating that the beautiful game “We have evidence that, along with school restrictions, the of bandy has garnered strong support in our country and that in situation is leading to stress and anxiety in children and young the future years of peace – let us believe that such years will finally people, and as it continues, the risks are increasing. We base our come for humanity – it will become the national game of the North,” decision on science and expert opinion,” said the mayor of Helsinki, wrote the Helsingin Sanomat in March, 1919. This journalist was more Jan Vapaavuori, in explaining the city’s decision to open up concerned about the price of playing equipment than the pandemic. limited activities for children and young people, contrary to the In the spring of 1919, football leagues began their season, even government’s instructions. though the third wave of Spanish flu was still raging in the country.

However, during the time of the Spanish flu, there would have After the third wave subsided, the Spanish flu was mistakenly believed been more justification for limiting sports than now because of to have been defeated, and in September the first international football the large death toll it exacted among young adults. One of the match in the history of independent Finland was played. A crowd of dead was the multiple-time Finnish sprinting champion, Valentin nearly five thousand witnessed Finland play to a 3–3 draw against Bergman. “We can explain your departure in no way other than Sweden on a field in the Töölö neighborhood of Helsinki without by saying, like the ancient Greeks: Whom the gods love dies young,” any distancing. People traveled to the venue in packed trams, still said Urheilulehti in the grandiloquent tone typical of the time when mostly without distancing or masks. writing Bergman’s obituary.

Learning from the experiences of other countries could have Globally, the disease also laid low successful athletes at the top of helped. In the United States, the second wave of Spanish flu began their careers. Among those killed were racecar driver Johnny Aitken, with the baseball playoffs between Boston and Chicago. “All of those the baseball players Larry Chappell and Pearl Douglas, and the events and the regular interactions that people had on streetcars and hockey players Hamby Shore and Joe Hall, the latter of whom is a in saloons and so on helped spread the virus. And Boston became member of the Hockey Hall of Fame. really the epicenter of the outbreak in September of 1918,” wrote What will happen after the coronavirus? There has been a lot sports historian Johnny Smith. of talk about a new normal and the fact that there is no going back After this, significantly stronger restrictions were applied to sports to the old world. For a long time, there will certainly be a need for in the United States than in Finland. For example, baseball players caution, because as the French existentialist and generally cheery and coaches wore masks even during games and many college sports Albert Camus observes at the conclusion to his novel The Plague: leagues were canceled altogether, as was a much-anticipated bout “The plague bacillus never dies or disappears for good.” Despite this, between Jack Dempsey, later heavyweight world champion, and it is good to remember the experience of Spanish flu once more: Battling Levinsky. The Stanley Cup finals were canceled after all when the last wave of the disease was over, the Roaring Twenties the players on both teams were hospitalized. began, ushing in a period of exuberant expansion that only ended Why was the approach to sports and sporting events in Finland so with the coming of the Great Recession. So, when the coronavirus different then than it is today? Especially when estimates place the disappears, the party will start. s 11

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ARCHIPELAGO RESTAURANT

C

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Y

MEDITERRANEAN DELICACIES

BY THE RIVERSIDE

CM

MY

CY

Restaurant Gustavo invites you to enjoy Mediterranean specialities with a Scandinavian twist!

CMY

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• Wines & pintxos • Naples style pizza • Summer terrace menu • A’la carte dinner You can also choose takeaway or delivery by Wolt.

Restaurant OOBU invites you to enjoy authentic Finnish archipelago specialities with a modern twist on the banks of river Aura.

Reservations and information: www.gustavo.fi/en Tel. +358 46 9222 488 • Linnankatu 1, Turku

+358 (0)20 128 09 00 Läntinen Rantakatu 9

www.oobu.fi

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Ruissalon Telakka

TENLÉN BBQ & SMOKERY TULE JA TESTAA ODOTETUN UUTUUSRAVINTOLAN TAIDOLLA SAVUSTETUT HERKUT SEKÄ LAADUKKAAT VIINIT. www.tenlen.fi

Ruissalon Telakan vierasvenesatama on veneilijän helmi. Poikkea visiitille ja ihaile telakan kauniita klassikkoveneitä.

AVELIA CAFÉ TRENDIKKÄÄSSÄ AVELIASSA TUOKSUU TUORE KAHVI; SISUSTUSLIIKKEEN YHTEYDESSÄ SINUA PALVELEE TUNNELMALLINEN KAHVILA.

ZAKÉ PIZZERIA & WINE BAR NAUTISKELE KEHUTUISTA ARTESAANIPIZZOISTA, VIINISTÄ JA MERELLISISTÄ MAISEMISTA ZAKÉN KESÄTERASSILLA.

Ruissalon Telakka | Hevoskarintie 23 | 20100 Turku | www.ruissalontelakka.fi | info@ruissalontelakka.fi

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Wine Bar Viinille

is a small and cosy specialist wine restaurant in Turku’s centre.

A selection of over 200 wines, most of which are reasonably priced and sold by the glass. Small pastries, olives, chorizo sausage as well as tasty cheeses perfectly compliment the beverages.

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BEST BEER AND FOOD IN TOWN

in Brewery Restaurant Koulu

Brewery restaurant School (Koulu) is one of the largest and oldest restaurant breweries in Finland.

With plenty of seating, tasty food, wide range of drinks and a relaxed atmosphere, Koulu is a welcoming local hangout.

We serve our craft brewed beers and ciders on tap in our full-service Brewery Pub. Enjoy a pint or order a flight of 4 different beers for a beer tasting.

During weekdays we serve tasty home-made lunch from the buffet on our second floor.

In summer you can enjoy a cold beer with a burger in our lush beer garden.

Our Summer Grill and Bar offer tasty food and wide range of drinks to enjoy with friends and family.

YLIOPISTONKATU - WALKING STREET

AURAKATU

KRISTIINANKATU

Hansa shopping center

EERIKINKATU BREWERYRESTAURANT

KOULU

HUMALISTONKATU 6, TURKU TEL. +358 2 232 3314 9

Eerikinkatu 18, Puh.(02) 274 5757 www.panimoravintolakoulu.fi

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Turku timeline

Written by Roope Lipasti

1229

1634

1917

The Pope orders the bishopric to be moved from Nousiainen to the new city of Turku. By the river Aura in Koroinen, there is a white memorial cross standing in the place where the Bishop’s little castle once was. It is a nice place to visit, as is the entire riverbank, where one can walk or go jogging.

The first map of Turku is published, and for a good reason, too: there were already 6,000 habitants, so the city was huge!

Finland declares independence.

1300 The Turku cathedral is inaugurated. It is the most beautiful cathedral in Finland. Not least because it is also the only proper cathedral in Finland.

1308 The first documented mention of the Turku Castle, although the construction probably began as early as the 1280s. Builders in Turku were in no hurry, as the castle wasn’t completed until 1588. The most magnificent Renaissance period in the history of Finland was seen in Turku castle during the reign of Catharina Jagiellon and Duke John (later king John III) 1562–1563.

1640 The University of Turku is established.

Nowadays, Turku is still a renowned city of higher education with more than 40,000 students studying at six universities.

1642 Finlands first printing house is established in Turku. It prints books, among them the thesis Aboa Vetus et Nova by Mr Daniel Juslenius (1676–1752), in which he studies the birth of Turku. His conclusion was that the people in Turku are decendants of Jaafet, the third son of Noah.

Sweden loses Finland to Russia in 1809, and in 1812 Helsinki is declared as the new capital – something that still slightly upsets people in Turku.

1414

1827 Turku burns down and almost the whole city must be built again, which is the reason why Turku doesn’t have a medieval centre anymore.

Turku is not quite a Hanseatic city, but almost.

It is one of the major cities in Sweden and its international trade is significant.

1543

1939–1945 Finland is at war with Russia. Turku suffers great damage during the bombings, among other buildings the castle is partly burned.

1956, 1976, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1993, 1995, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2010.

TPS, the biggest ice-hockey club in Turku, wins the Finnish championship

1812

The first bridge over river Aura is built. It was called The Pennybridge.

1500

1922 The University of Turku is established again, since the original Academy was moved to Helsinki after the great fire in 1827. Åbo Akademi University, the only university in Finland with Swedish as official language, was founded in 1918. (Åbo is the name of Turku in Swedish.)

1960–1980 Turku suffers from the so called “Turku sickness” – meaning that many beautiful old buildings were demolished in order to be replaced with modern blockhouses.

2011 Turku is the European Capital of Culture.

1900

2021

The first Christmas tree illuminated with electric lamps is erected in front of the Cathedral. The tradition became regular in the 1930s.

Turku is the sixth largest city in Finland with 193,000 inhabitants. It also is one of the nicest cities and most popular holiday destinations in Finland, with its historical attractions and magnificent archipelago. s

Mikael Agricola, the father of written Finnish, publishes his first book. It is also a milestone of Protestantism in Finland.

18

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THE ONLY ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IN FINLAND INTERESTING CONTEMPORARY ART EXHIBITIONS

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17.5.2021 15.35.51

photo: Jari Nieminen/Aboa Vetus Ars Nova

Aboa Vetus Ars Nova is situated in the middle of Old Turku. There are still many unexcavated ruins in the museum’s area.

Archaeological finds give glimpses of early pub culture in Turku

T

Written by Ilari Aalto

oday, Turku is renowned for its ample selection of restaurants and bars.

Written records and archaeological finds show that love of food and drink goes far back in history; residents of Turku have enjoyed sitting down with their friends with a pint of beer since the founding of the town around 1300. Some of the early taverns were located in the area known nowadays as the Aboa Vetus Ars Nova Museum. Archaeological finds discovered in the museum’s excavations offer glimpses of pub culture dating back hundreds of years.

Museum of archaeology and contemporary art

The Aboa Vetus Ars Nova Museum is situated in the heart of the historic town area of Turku, by the River Aura. The Latin name of the museum means Old Turku and New Art. It is one of the three art museums in Turku and the only archaeological museum in Finland. The museum houses a collection of contemporary art, changing exhibitions and the underground ruins of several medieval stone houses.

The archaeological section was excavated in the 1990s, and archaeological research is continued on a regular basis.

In the medieval period, beer was drunk from German stoneware jugs.

Photo: Raila Tapio / Aboa Vetus Ars Nova.

21

photo: Klaus Koszubatis

photo: David Teniers the Younger, 1640s Wikimedia Commons.

This cellar might have housed a public sauna or tavern in the Middle Ages.

Daily beer In the Middle Ages (1200–1520 AD), Turku and most of modern Finland belonged to the Kingdom of Sweden. The medieval town law of Sweden dictated that every town should have the minimum of two inns that would provide lodgings and serve beer and bread. Beer was the staple beverage of the Middle Ages, but as an important trading town Turku was also able to import fine wines from the Rhineland and beyond. The town hall situated by the Old Great Square had a monopoly on the wine trade in the town.

Only a few written documents mention taverns in medieval Turku, but they are known to have existed. Beer was consumed in inns, public saunas and guild halls that held banquets for their members.

At times drinking together ended in quarrels, such as in 1498 when a group of cathedral priests started arguing and one of them threw a pint of beer in a deacon’s face. This was not the kind of behavior that would have been appropriate for a priest, and the culprit had to travel all the way to Rome to seek absolution.

The remains of a large stone house situated in the middle of the museum’s underground area known as Aboa Vetus seem to have housed a tavern or perhaps even a public sauna. This is evidenced by finds of refined wine glasses, stoneware jugs and gaming pieces.

The finds also suggest that nuts and lamb chops were eaten at the establishment as snacks.

Tavern culture in the 17th century During the past few years, the museum has been focusing its archaeological research especially on two stone houses that were destroyed in the disastrous fire of Turku in 1827. One of these houses

Drinking and smoking went hand in hand in the 17th century. Clay tobacco pipes identical to the one in this Dutch painting were smoked in Källaren.

was known by the Swedish name Källaren, simply meaning pub. The property was owned in the early 17th century by the Scottish merchant Anders Merthen, one of the richest tradesmen in Turku. He was struck by a disaster in 1630s when he lost a great deal of his fortune in several shipwrecks, and he subsequently decided to start a career as an innkeeper. Anders and his wife Carin received the right to sell imported wines at the town hall, and from 1634 they were allowed to run a tavern at their home, Källaren.

The patrons of Källaren belonged to the upper classes of Turku.

This did not mean that they always knew how to behave. There are several documented court cases that followed from tavern brawls and other misbehavior in the tavern. Once, a customer unwilling to pay his dues started to smash tankards and gaming boards, and while leaving he even broke some windows! It is intriguing to think that some of the archaeological shards found on the site might have resulted from this very incident.

22

photo: Jari Nieminen / Aboa Vetus Ars Nova

photo: Jari Nieminen / Aboa Vetus Ars Nova

Gambling was a popular pastime in taverns. This tiny dice was probably lost by one of the pub’s patrons.

Foot of a German Roemer drinking-glass that was used in Källaren pub in the early 17th century. It was intended for drinking white wine.

A TAVERN SITUATED IN THE HEART OF TURKU AND RUN BY A SCOTTISH COUPLE VISITORS

SMOKED TOBACCO IN DUTCH PIPES WHILE SIPPING FRENCH WINES FROM GERMAN GLASSES.

International commodities from 400 years ago Archaeological finds are telltale signs of activities that took place in the pub. During an excavation, a bunch of broken clay tobacco pipes was discovered right in front of the tavern entrance. Smoking tobacco was a new vice in the early 17th century, but it had already found its way to taverns, where the delight of enjoying a pipeful alongside a tankard of beer was a common practice.

Dutch made smoking pipes and tobacco were sold by the tavern.

Clay tobacco pipes are regarded as one of the first mass produced articles, and they were mostly relatively inexpensive. However, tobacco was not exactly cheap. It was considered valuable enough that in 1633 one young Henrik Knutsson was sentenced to death at the town hall by hanging because he had stolen tobacco from Anders Merthen’s tavern.

During archaeological excavations, masses of animal bones, household waste and broken objects are found. However, it is very rare that the researchers can interpret what a certain house has been used for. In addition to clay pipes, shards of fashionable wine glasses, pieces of ceramic plates and a tiny gaming dice were found in connection with Källaren. All these finds are related to the leisure activities that took place in the tavern.

All in all, the finds are also evidence of early multiculturalism and globalisation: in a tavern situated in the heart of Turku and run by a Scottish couple visitors smoked tobacco in Dutch pipes while sipping French wines from German glasses. Even in the pre-industrial age patrons wanted to have some luxuries. s 23

ABOA VETUS ARS NOVA MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND CONTEMPORARY ART Itäinen Rantakatu 4–6, Turku | tel.: +358 207 181 640 www.avan.fi | info@avan.fi Museum is open* Tue–Sun 11 am–6 pm (Closed from 25 to 27 June 2021) Open daily 11 am–6 pm (28 June to 1 August) *Please note that there may be changes to opening hours due to the coronavirus pandemic.

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ON MAP (PAGE 15)

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Layout and illustrations: Erkki Kiiski | Original photos: Timo Jakonen

We hope that you will find our wonderful churches during your visit in Turku! ➤ Please note that there may still be restrictions due to the coronavirus epidemic. If the disease situation were to suddenly become worse, individual municipalities may impose tighter restrictions locally to prevent the epidemic from spreading. ➤ More information about Turku and Kaarina churches and their opening hours, tel. +358 (40) 3417 111. ➤ Under normal health conditions as follows: ➊ Turku Cathedral Open daily 9–18 Tuomiokirkontori 1, Turku Summer Café Cathedral Museum 2/1 € ➋ St Mary’s Church Maunu Tavastin katu 2, Turku Mon-Fri 12 noon–6 pm (1 June–2 Aug, except 25 Jun) Guide available.

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TURKU TI MES

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What I dream about when I dream about coffee

One thing, however, remained a constant pleasure on these trips. I would always report home about it, wherever I was in the world: the morning coffee at the hotel breakfast. In the words of special agent Dale Cooper from Twin Peaks, “The true test of any hotel, as you well know, Diane, is that morning cup of coffee.”

In the past year, like so many of us, I have been mostly homebound.

When I talk about my latest novel Kuunpäivän kirjeet, it is mainly virtually. And when I dream of travelling, I find myself dreaming of memorable cups of coffee I have encountered. These may not always be the most impressive at the culinary level, but are etched on my memory for other reasons, such as the setting, life events, or the novelty of the experience.

There was a wondrous cappuccino I had on the top floor of a hotel with a view over Tokyo after I had just arrived in Japan for a book fair. Later that same week, I drank a strong, hot cup of filtered coffee at a ryokan, a traditional inn in Kyoto while watching the heavy rain falling on the deep-green leaves in the garden outside. In Latvia, I stayed at a boutique hotel just before Christmas one year: a lovely breakfast buffet with one of the most outstanding coffees I have tried.

“Coffee report: five out of five cups,” I texted home. In rural Virginia, US, at a hotel that probably was the only one in town, my report read: “Five different types of coffee (filtered, decaf, instant, with added sugar, and extra strong, in case you were wondering), but nothing at the buffet that is recognisable as fruits or vegetables – maple syrup does not count. Four cups out of five.”

Oh, and that hotel in Twin Peaks? It exists, and I once stayed there too. I do not remember a chandelier, but in that setting any coffee would have tasted of dreams.

While I wait for my life as a tired travelling author – by which I of course mean a glamorous international adventuress – to resume, I dream fondly of these coffee-drinking experiences, and many more to come. Of placing my hands around the cup at a hotel, of taking that first sip of the morning, and of the feeling of freedom it always brings: that anything is possible that day. s

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Emmi Itäranta is a Finnish bestselling novelist whose work has been translated into more than 20 languages. She lives and writes in Canterbury, UK.

Photo: Liisa Takala

O

nce upon a time I was an international adventuress: the kind of cosmopolitan lady who travelled the world, met interesting people and stayed at hotels with chandeliers, spas and names like The Grand This, The Great That and Something Palace.

This is how I would like my fictionalized biography to begin, when somebody writes it in a hundred years’ time. Truth be told, the reality is somewhat more prosaic: I did use to travel a lot, but it was mainly for work. Most of the time, when I got to my hotel room at the end of a long day, I wanted nothing more than to collapse in bed. The preceding twenty-four hours were frequently spent on packed trains, sitting at various airports waiting for delayed flights, or working 14-hour days consisting of school visits, library talks and book festivals.

If there was a spa, I rarely found the time to enjoy it; if there were chandeliers, I barely noticed them because I was so focused on getting some sleep. It may or may not be true that my hotel dinner once consisted of a chocolate bunny gifted to me on a school visit, because it was late at night and no other food was available within the nearest hundred kilometres. As it turns out, the glamorous life of a travelling author is a lot less glamorous than one might think.

Written by Emmi Itäranta

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IF YOU WANT TO SHOP, YOU ONLY NEED ONE STOP! Shopping centre Skanssi is like a charming little village just 5 km from downtown Turku and it’s easy to get here by car, bus or bicycle. Over 80 stores, the K-Citymarket, excellent, free parking facilities, a wide variety of cafés and restaurants and a nice outdoor patio. What else do you possibly need?

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