Turku Times 1/19

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A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

IN THIS ISSUE A superpower in motor sports page 10

A few words about women – Discover the life stories of the 17th century women in Turku Castle page 22

The magical world of the Moomins page 26

A column by Salla Simukka

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

A room of her own page 28

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WELCOME TO TURKU! Urban legends since 1229 MUSIC TURKU PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA AND TURKU CONCERT HALL Aninkaistenkatu 9

KUPITTAA SPORTS CENTER

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES LIBRARY TURKU CITY LIBRARY Linnankatu 2 Open every day, Turku City Library is set in the impressive architecture of two buildings combined as a whole.

The library features several areas for events and exhibitions as well as plenty of places to read. The visitor can delve into the thousands of journals in either paper or electronic format. A wireless network is available in all areas for the use of laptops, but visitors also have access to multiple computers. turku.fi/en/turku-city-library

© Joonas Mäkivirta

tfo.fi/en

in Kupittaa area, only 2 km from the city centre ADVENTURE PARK (Seikkailupuisto) is a cultural centre for children and families, located on the edges of the Kupittaanpuisto-park area.

Adventure Park is open all year round and best suitable for children aged 0 to 12.

During the summer the park’s attractions include a shower sponge, a wading pool, a brook that twists around the park and a traffic town. During the winter season, there’s plenty to do in the park’s indoor facilities, including club and theatre activities, music play schools and open art workshops. turku.fi/en/adventure-park-seikkailupuisto

An excellent place to spend an active day with family, or a perfect place for the active enthusiast or spectator, in any season. The area contains football fields, an indoor sports arena and Finnish baseball fields. Visitors may use free of charge roller coaster rink, outdoor gym, beach volleyball courts and BMX track.

Just like a well-furnished living room, it offers for a perfect place for a cosy picnic in the green park or a nice refreshing swim in the outdoor swimming pool. turku.fi/en/sports

© Ville Solkinen

© Laura Kemppainen

© Seilo Ristimäki

Turku Philharmonic Orchestra offers a wide range of concerts from September to May both in Turku Concert Hall and in the many historical venues of Turku and the beautiful archipelago. The weekly symphony concerts feature guest artists from Finland and abroad.

turku.fi/en/culture-and-sports

MUSEUMS Linnankatu 80 Tue–Sun 10–18 and 3 Jun–1 Sep Mon–Sun 10–18 The majestic Turku Castle has guarded the mouth of the river Aura since the end of 13th century. Concealed inside the tall, grey stone walls are the secrets and dramatic twists of Finnish, Swedish and Nordic history. The atmospheric rooms of the medieval castle, the renaissance splendour and the wonderful architecture, will astonish all who visit.

During its history the castle has been defended and besieged, frequently changing hands between medieval leaders.

During the time of Duke John court life at the castle was transformed, with the introduction of the latest clothing fashions and the enjoyment of sumptuous dining. In later periods the castle would also be used as a barracks, a warehouse and a prison.

PHARMACY MUSEUM AND THE QWENSEL HOUSE Läntinen Rantakatu 13 Mon–Sun 10–18 The museum features a bourgeois home from the 18th century and a pharmacy from the 19th century under one roof. The Qwensel House is the oldest remaining wooden building in Turku. The interior is decorated in the rococo and Gustavian styles of the late 18th century. In the Pharmacy Museum the oldest items on display are over 200 years old, and the pharmacy’s shopping area houses the oldest remaining pharmacy interior in Finland.

midst of all the hustle and bustle. Cafe Qwensel offers old-style delicacies made on the premises.

LUOSTARINMÄKI HANDICRAFTS MUSEUM Vartiovuorenkatu 2 20 Apr–2 Jun Tue–Sun 10–18 and 3 Jun–1 Sep Mon-Sun 10–18 In 1827 the Great Fire of Turku caused massive destruction, but Luostarinmäki was spared from the flames. Nowadays the old quarter and artisans of Luostarinmäki form a unique atmosphere, where time stands still.

At the museum, journey in time to life of the common folk from the 1800’s. The museum presents the professions of the preindustrial era, with many different handicraft workshops located in the houses.

WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM OF ART Itäinen Rantakatu 38 Tue–Sun 10–18.

The Wäinö Aaltonen museum is dedicated to the late, Turku born sculptor and operates as the city art museum by the riverbank. Offerings include changing exhibitions, new and experimental art projects as well as various cultural events.

Exhibitions • HC Berg 7 Jun–22 Sep • When is Now from 11 Oct Exhibitions in WAM X • Vincent Moon and Priscilla Telmon until 9 Jun • Tuomas A. Laitinen 14 Jun–25 Aug • Maeve Brennan from 30 Aug turku.fi/en/museum

The idyllic 18th century courtyard in the middle of the city is a relaxing spot in the

We reserve the right to make changes.

© Joonas Mäkivirta

TURKU CASTLE

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Delicious flavours and a good atmosphere for every occassion.

Pippurimylly is a nostalgic family restaurant.

We have been offering tasty steaks and pizzas since 1974.

Stålarminkatu 2, 20810 Turku / +358 2 277 3350 / www.pippurimylly.fi ma-pe 11-23 / la 12-23 / su 12-21

Restaurant Teini is a landmark in the local culinary history. Teini has been serving classic dishes in the historical Juselius Mansion since 1924.

Let the nostalgic atmosphere enchant you.

Uudenmaankatu 1, 20500 Turku / +358 2 2330203 / www.ravintolateini.fi ma-pe 11-23 / la 12-23 / su 12-21

A cozy atmosphere, wide variety of beers, good wines and burgers. Everything is served in a fancy old factory setting next to the Aura river.

Läntinen Rantakatu 55, 20100 Turku / +358 2 2588000 / www.rantakerttu.fi ma-pe 11-22 / la 12-22 / su 12-19

Gastropub Löytö – laid-back place to enjoy a great burger and a pint or two – always in good company.

Pop in! With us you won't feel lost.

Uudenmaankatu 1, 20500 Turku / +358 2 2330205 / www.gastropubloyto.fi ma-to 11-24 / pe 11-02 / la 14-02 / su 15-22

RAVANTIT STÅLARMINKATU 2, 20810 TURKU / PUH. +358 2 277 3350

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CONTENTS Welcome to Turku 8 A superpower in motor sports 10 Selected services & places 14 Maps of Turku & Ruissalo Island 16 Hotels & hostels providing Turku Times 18 Turku timeline 20 A few words about women – Discover the life stories of the 17th century women in Turku Castle 22 The forever-fascinating, magical world of the Moomins 26 A room of her own – A column by Salla Simukka 28

Turku Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 1/2019 "Summer" www.turkutimes.fi ISSN 2342-2823 (print) ISSN 2669-8285 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor Anna Eloaho Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

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Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover photos Turku Castle. Photo: Museum Centre of Turku Tall Ships Race. Photo: Olli Sulin Ruisrock. Photo: Maria Kokljuschkin River Aura. Photo: Seilo Ristimaki Salla Simukka. Photo: Hanna Poropudas

Turku Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: www.turkutimes.fi.

Turku Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Turku (see page 18). Next Turku Times issue is out in November 2019.

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Why travel to Milan when you can go to Shopping Centre Mylly WELCOME TO THE BIGGEST SHOPPING CENTRE IN SOUTHWEST FINLAND – 150 SHOPS AND 5 0 FA S H I O N RE TA I LE RS T O CH O O S E F ROM

O p e n: m o n-fri 10 -21 , s at-s u n 10 -19 – My lly n katu 1 , Ra i s i o – ka up p a ke s ku s my lly.f i

photo: Olli Sulin / City of Turku

Welcome to Turku Turku wants to offer its best not only to its

This guarantees that we have wide-ranging know-how in the city.

Our universities are international, and the only Swedish university in Finland, Åbo Akademi, is the gem of the city.

The cooperation between the universities, the city and the businesses aims to make Turku and the Turku region grow at the top of development in the Baltic Sea region. The long-term cooperation for its part has raised the Turku region to be the engine of economic growth in Finland. The spearhead fields in Turku are marine technology, bio and circular economy, health and well-being, manufacturing and technology industry and creative fields.

citizens but also to tourists, whether it is a question of holiday, business, training or a congress.

Original photo: Mikko Kaaresmaa

Turku is the oldest city in Finland. We are taking advantage of our history though we are looking to the future. In 2029 we will celebrate the 800th anniversary of Turku, and the city is already preparing for the jubilee year in numerous ways, of which I am here presenting two: The most visible project at the moment is the large-scale renovation of the market square in the city centre. After a couple of years we will have in our centre an attractive car-free market square with its splendid pedestrian, cycling and recreational facilities.

The target of Turku is to be a carbon neutral city in its jubilee year and after that a climate positive city. We reach the target in cooperation with the citizens and the communities of the city.

So, I am also inviting you to participate in our joint effort to combat climate change, for example, by favouring delicious and clean local food.

Turku is a small large city. There are around 1 9 0 , 0 0 0 re s i d e n t s i n Turku. However, there are six universities in the city and around 40,000 students and university teachers.

City by the river and the sea The River Aura is the heart of Turku. You get to know Turku easier by walking or cycling along the riverside. The route from the Turku Cathedral to Turku Castle is steeped in history and life. By the river there is beautiful scenery, museums and a magnificent main library as well as cosy and high-quality cafés and restaurants where to have a break.

Shops and department stores are close to one another in the city centre. As souvenirs I recommend design of Turku origin, such as high-quality textiles which are light to carry home. It is also worth visiting the traditional market hall where to taste local delicacies and specialties.

The sea and nature are inseparable part of Turku. On Ruissalo island off the city the mind rests all seasons. The island is famous for villas from the 19th century, oak forests, a beach, nature trails and Ruisrock Festival. You can easily get to the island by Föli’s citybike, bus and in the summertime also by Föli’s water-bus.

For culture lovers Turku offers lots of interesting events like concerts, theatre, fairs, art exhibitions and festivals all year round but in the summer season to come you can also enjoy unique outdoor events.

I am a native of Turku and the city is everything to me. That is why I wish that Turku would touch every visitor beneath the surface and would make the visitor come again. s Minna Arve mayor of Turku

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Photos: Timo Jakonen | Layout: Erkki Kiiski

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EXPERIENCE UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE, CULTURAL HISTORY AND ARCHITECTURE

Visit Turku Churches ➤ Turku Cathedral Tuomiokirkonkatu 1 ●

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Finland’s only medieval cathedral and national shrine was consecrated in 1300.

Guide booklets are on sale at the Information desk.

You can use your mobile phone or tablet to find out about the Cathedral and its closed tomb chapels.

Summer cafe Cathedral Museum 2/1 € Open daily, 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

➤ St Michael’s Church Puistokatu 16 ●

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Designed by Lars Sonck, an architectural gem with magnificent ornaments.

Built 1905, representing neo-gothic and national romantic styles.

Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–6 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.–1 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–1 p.m. (3 Jun–30 Aug, except 21–22 Jun) Guides available

➤ St Mary’s Church Maunu Tavastinkatu 2 ●

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Medieval stone church from early 15th century, with rich secco drawings.

Mon–Fri 12 noon–5 p.m. (3 Jun–9 Aug) Guide available

➤ St Catherine’s Church Kirkkotie 46 ●

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Medieval stone church of Catherine of Siena and St Catherine of Alexandria in unique surroundings.

Mon–Fri 12 noon–5 p.m. (10 Jun–9 Aug, except 21 Jun) Guide available

➤ In winter time churches are only open during masses, concerts and other events (except Turku Cathedral).

➤ For other churches and chapels, see Turku and Kaarina Parish Union site: www.turunseurakunnat.fi

photo: Massimo Bettiol / Getty Images

A superpower in motor sports

Finland is one of the most successful countries in the history of motor sports. Why?

G

Written by Matti Mäkelä

iven the small size of the population, is supported by a statement made by the younger Rosberg the country’s performance in this field to the Helsingin Sanomat newspaper in 2005: “Maybe in completely outshines that of any other motor racing I feel a closer connection to Finland, since country. But this small country does it reminds me of my father’s achievements.” not need flattery In rally driving, seven Finns have in this regard – the statistics say it all. won the World Rally Championships, Finland has produced three most of them several times. In the IN RALLY DRIVING, SEVEN Formula One World Drivers’ entire history of the championships, FINNS HAVE WON Championship winners. The only only ten other drivers have won from THE WORLD RALLY country to beat this is the United the rest of the world taken together.

CHAMPIONSHIPS Kingdom, with Brazil and Germany In motorcycle racing Finland has not being equal to Finland. And been equally overwhelming, but still considering that the most recent highly successful. However, between German Formula One world champion, Nico Rosberg, all the different types of motorcycle racing, from the is the son of Finland’s first world champion, Keke Rosberg, FIM Road Racing World Championship Grand Prix to and is a dual Finnish and German citizen, Finland is in fact trials, Finland has produced no less than eight world second only to the UK in the statistics. This interpretation champions.

Above: Jari Matti Latvala and Miikka Anttila of Finland compete in the 2012 WRC Rally Finland in Jyväskylä.

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SuperPark is the friendliest indoor activity park in the world!

Our sports park in Finland is bursting at the seams with an array of family activities for every age and every taste.

Adventure Area. Game Arena. Freestyle Hall. Choose your own adventure! SuperPark is home to a smorgasbord of activities, designed to inspire and entertain you. Come see what all the hype is about!

you Are made To move SuperPark Turku | Kongressikuja 1, 20540 Turku | www.SuperPark.fi

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Much has been said about the secrets of Finnish success in motor sports. Of course, these sports are a natural choice in a country where there has always been a great love of technology. Finland has sometimes been described as a nation of engineers who can develop and create, but not sell.

In addition, it has been noted that the most successful Finnish rally drivers have mainly come from rural areas, where the roads tend to be more winding and in poor condition for much of the year.

In these circumstances, learning to drive well was essential just to survive. If this explanation is true, can the rise of French rally drivers in recent years be explained by improvements to Finnish roads and the run-down state of French infrastructure?

Motor sports are also said to be well suited to the quiet and inward-looking nature of the Finnish character. A Finnish man feels most at home on a quiet road or track, where he is free to put in a death-defying performance without anyone’s support or any rivalry.

However, this lone wolf explanation at least partially fails, because motor sports are largely collaborative efforts, where the best drivers owe their success to good teamwork with engineers, mechanics and all the other members of the team. Moreover, in rally driving the stereotypical strong, silent type would be very bothered by the continual chatter of the map reader sitting beside him – even though there is a good reason for this chatter. Well, the Lone Ranger did have his Tonto, after all, and Batman has his Robin.

Some of the Finnish motor sports champions have certainly been go-it-alone types who have climbed their way to the summit through sheer force of will and a tremendous amount of work. The legendary motorcycling world champion Jarno “The Baron” Saarinen was known to maintain and fine-tune his bike by himself in the early days of his career. And future Formula Once world champion Keke Rosberg quit a well-paid job and moved abroad to forge out a career as a racing driver. He later described his long journey to becoming world champion as “driving through frozen banks of snow”.

There is also great power in example: trailblazing heroes can inspire up-and-coming talent to believe in their own potential. In tennis, for example, the Swedish legend Björn Borg’s wins led the way for

THE LEGENDARY MOTORCYCLING

WORLD CHAMPION JARNO “THE

BARON” SAARINEN WAS KNOWN TO MAINTAIN AND

FINE-TUNE HIS

BIKE BY HIMSELF. Jarno Saarinen.

countless new tennis stars. Similarly, Finnish motor sports masters have lit the spark for later generations of drivers. Keke Rosberg was highly supportive of Mika Häkkinen on the latter’s route to Formula One success and fame, even acting as Häkkinen’s manager. And it must be remembered that before the elder Rosberg, most people in Finland knew practically nothing about the sport. The Finnish media was also largely indifferent to his actual performances, mostly describing him as a bigmouth who was forever dropping out in the middle of races. One magazine, Hymy, even named him “garbage truck driver of the year” in 1981.

And there are no gains to be made without pain and sacrifice. For example, Kimi Räikkönen’s family invested practically everything in their son’s career. His father Matti Räikkönen worked several jobs and the family even gave up on renovating their bathroom to finance Kimi and his brother’s motor sports hobbies.

For some Finnish champions, the sacrifices were on an entirely different scale. Grand Prix motorcycle road racer Jarno Saarinen was killed in an accident in Monza in 1973, and rally driver Henri Toivonen‘s car veered of the road into a ravine in Corsica in 1986.

Sometimes, the secret to success is simply luck. In 1998, rally driving world champion Tommi Mäkinen, who went on to win four world championship titles, was already at the airport heading home when he got a phone call telling him that Spanish star Carlos “El Matador” Sainz’s car had broken down just a few hundred meters from the finish line. With Sainz out of the running, this meant that Mäkinen moved up from second place to win the championship for the third time. Keke Rosberg won the Formula One world championship back in 1982 in a Williams car with a Ford Cosworth engine, whereas the overwhelmingly more powerful turbo-charged engines kept breaking down repeatedly throughout the season.

And as we all know, when the going gets tough, the tough get going.

In 1998, Mika Häkkinen and Michael Schumacher both started the last leg of the Formula One world championship equally placed to win. Schumacher failed to get his car started and is moved to last place on the starting grid for a restart. Häkkinen kept his cool and won the championship. Nine years later, the outcome of the championship seemed a foregone conclusion, with Lewis Hamilton leading Kimi Räikkonen by 17 points with just two races to go in the season. At the following race, the Chinese Grand Prix, Hamilton’s concentration lapsed, and his car veered off the track at a pit entrance. Räikkönen won, shrinking the gap to seven points. In the final race, Hamilton slipped far from the lead early on, and Räikkönen won the world championship title by a single point. s

ONE MAGAZINE EVEN NAMED ROSBERG “GARBAGE TRUCK

DRIVER OF THE YEAR” IN 1981.

photo: Hans van Dijk / Anefo

Keke Rosberg.

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Bowlbionagrd le shuff leeroom p

esca p burgers&Craftbeer

Yliopistonkatu 29 Turku • www.bowler.fi 10

SELECTED SERV IC ES AN D PLAC ES I N TU RKU AREA Locations are marked on the map (pages 16–17) with the numbers below.

Our advertisers are marked below with green text and on the map with a green, numbered dot.

Bars, Pubs, Cafés

Museums, Galleries

Ale Pub Telakka ..............................8 Bowler ..............................................9 Café Qwensel (see Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House) ......................... 221*|1 Café Vimma ......................................... 286 Coffee House Wiklund ..................27 Cup&Pint .............................................. 407 Fika Café ................................607*|28 Gastro-Pub Löytö .................... 551*|2 Hugo ........................................................ 181 Pelimies Bar & Cafe .............. 132*|26 Teerenpeli ......................................22 Tiirikkala ...............................598*|19 Walo Rooftop Bar Wiklund ..........27

Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova ................ 16 Biological Museum (closed for the time being) ............................219 Forum Marinum Maritime Centre .. 18 Kylämäki – Village of Living History ...............222 Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum ..............220*|1 Old Great Square – several art galleries ......................... 157 Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House ................ 221*|1 Sibelius-Museum ..........................20 Turku Castle and Historical Museum (see also pages 22, 24–25) ..... 73*|1 Turku Art Museum ....................... 17 Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art ........................ 163*|1

and Live Music

Restaurants

Baan Thai Restaurant ........... 541*|26 Brewery Restaurant School (Koulu) .. 21 Dennis Ristorante ......................... 23 E. Ekblom ..............................636*|19 Gustavo Mediterranean Delicacies ......................................24 Göran Restaurant Forum Marinum .19 Huong Viet Vietnamese Restaurant ....... 642*|26 Hus Lindman ........................ 496*|28 KASVIS-ravintola Vegetarian Restaurant .............................................530 Kerttu ......................................................179 Kivi Restaurant (see Turku City Theatre) ... 155 Panini ..................................... 637*|19 Pippurimylly ........................... 181*|2 Rantakerttu ............................ 482*|2 Rapido Wiklund Burgers & Green Stuff ..................27 Rioni Authentic Georgian Food ....11 Shibui Japanese Restaurant .........25 Smör .......................................638*|19 Teini ......................................... 551*|2 Trattoria Wiklund .........................27 Vaakahuoneen Paviljonki ............ 10 VENN Wiklund ..............................27 Hotels & Hostels

See numbered blue dots 16–17 and 18.

on pages

Map information marked with red dots is based on the database of Turun Aika Magazine.

and Exhibitions

Shopping

You will find the numbered green dot in each advertisement on the map on pages 16–17.

Churches

St Catherine´s Church ...............68*|5 St Mary´s Church .....................205*|5 St Michael´s Church ..................76*|5 Turku Cathedral ...................... 69*|5 Other Services

Central Post Office of Turku ........... 270 Humalistonkatu Pharmacy ......... 14 LOGOMO - Centre for Cultural, Creative and Business Events .........416 Pharmacy Shopping Centre Hansa ................................. 13 Terveystalo Medical Center ......... 15 Turku City Theatre .......................... 3 Turku Concert Hall ...................60*|1 Turku Market Hall ............................. 262 Turku Market Square ..............................1 Turku City Library (see page 26)... 127*|1 Turku University Hospital First Aid and Emergency Services (in case of emergency call 112)........................................ 276

For an accurate event calendar of Turku area, see www.turunaika.fi (in Finnish).

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Children and Families

Adventure Park for Children and Families (Seikkailupuisto) ............. 162*|1 Sports

AuraBiljardi – Billiard Room & Bar .................. 12 Impivaara Sports Centre ................... 631 Kupittaa Sports Center ........... 588*|1 Paavo Nurmi Athletic Track ........... 268 SuperPark – Indoor Activity Park ...6 Swimming

Caribian Spa (Holiday Club Caribia) .......66 Ekvalla Beach – disability access (Satava Island) .......587 Impivaara Public swimming pool ...281 Ispoinen Beach ....................................583 Kupittaa Outdoor Swimming Arena .264 Saaronniemi Beach (Ruissalo Island) ...582 Samppalinna Swimming Stadium .. 274 Transportation

Funicular at Kakolanmäki (will be opened May 24th) ...........................653 Föri – Non-stop ferry across the river for pedestrians and cyclists .............261 Kupittaa Railway Station ..................265 Local Traffic Service Office – Föli Turku Region Traffic ............. 460 Main Railway Station ......................... 271 Turku Airport .......................................275 Turku Bus Terminal .......................... 266

A MAP IN

YOUR POCKET

Turku Times MapApp: www.turkutimes.fi

More info: www.visitturku.fi

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Authentic Georgian food and wines in the heart of Turku Lunch – Brunch – Dinner – Wine & Dine

Georgian food Cuisine of the year in the 2019 Hospitality Trends Report

Georgian dish khachapuri - best rated dish on TasteAtlas’s top 100 list

Kristiinankatu 9, Turku 050 4688051 www.rioni.fi

1st Rioni ranked #1 of restaurants in Espoo on Tripadvisor

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photos: City of Turku

Turku timeline Written by Anna Eloaho

10 000 BCE

1562

1918

The ice age ends relatively late in Finland, around 12,000 years ago.

New inventions, trends and fashions reach Turku swiftly. Among them the habit of using both fork and knife. The first fork in Finland belongs to Catharina Jagiellon, the Polish princess who married Swedish prince John.

Along with her fork she is said to have brought the Renaissance era to Turku Castle.

In 1918 the Swedish University of Turku, Åbo Akademi is established. It is the third university of Finland and the first one outside Helsinki.

3200 BCE Findings from the Stone Age show that there are hunters and gatherers in the Turku region already in ca. 3200 BCE, right after the land had risen from under the sea.

700 CE The cultural landscape of Finland Proper starts to develop during Iron Age, when people live by farming and rising cattle. The rivers are an important mean for transportation and trade. The roads start to form.

1229 In his letter to the Bishop of Lindköping, Pope Gregorius IX orders the Bishop’s seat in Nousiainen to be moved to a more appropriate place, ad locum competenciorem.

End of 1220’s The representatives of the Crown, the Catholic Church and the Dominican Order decide to establish a city on the east side of the river Aura to have a more appropriate place for episcobus Aboensis, the first Bishop of Turku.

1300 The Turku Cathedral is inaugurated in June in1300. Also the building of the Turku Castle had started by the end of the 13th century.

1500 By the late Middle Ages, Turku has developed into a bustling town and an important actor in international trade, as it has good connections to motherland Sweden, the Baltic and the major Hanseatic cities as well as Novgorod.

1500 By the end of the Middle Ages there are approximately 1500 inhabitants in Turku.

The population of all of Finland at that time is ca. 100,000.

1640

1920 In 1920 the Finnish speaking University of Turku is established with funds collected in a public fund-raising with over 22,000 contributors.

The royal command of Queen Christina of Sweden establishes a university in Turku in 1640. The Royal Academy of Turku is the third university in all Sweden-Finland, the first two being Uppsala (1477) and Tartu (1632).

1939–1944

1732

1965

Industrialism reaches Turku. The first factories manufacture tobacco. The long line of building ships in Turku starts when the Åbo Gamla Skeppswarf is founded in 1732.

Turku decides to end the tram traffic by year 1972. The tracks, covering the central parts of the city are gradually dismantled. The later generations have considered this an ill decision and tram may well return to Turku in the future.

1800 By the beginning of the 19th century there are 10 000 people living in Turku, the population of Finland being ca. 1 million.

1812 Turku enjoys her position as the number one city of the country until 1812, when Helsinki is made the new capital and the administrative center of the Grand Duchy of Finland, at that time part of Russia.

Turku suffers great damages in the World War II. Even the Turku Castle is bombed.

1970’s A more visible trend of decision-making in the 1960’s and 1970’s is to demolish old buildings and replace them with modern blockhouses.

The demolishing epidemic is known as the Turku disease. The current tendency is to preserve buildings form 19th century and the beginning of 20th.

2011

1827 A major blow to the academic position of Turku is given by the Grand Duke, the Russian Emperor Alexander I, who transfers the Academy to the new capital after the Great Fire of Turku in 1827.

1880 Turku is the first city in Finland to have a horse-drawn tramline.

1917 Finland declares its independent on December the 6th in 1917.

20

Turku, along with Tallinn in Estonia is the European Cultural Capital in 2011.

2019 In 2019 Turku is the sixth largest city of Finland with its 191,000 inhabitants. The Turku sub-region is the third largest urban area in Finland. There are two universities and four universities of applied sciences in Turku, with the total number of nearly 40,000 degree and post-graduate students and teachers. s

13

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photo: Ville Mäkilä, Museum Centre of Turku

A Few Words about Women - Discover the life stories of the

17th century women in Turku Castle

H

written by Maria Huokkola, The Curator of the exhibition, Museum Centre of Turku

istory of Turku often pass over women with a few words. The latest historical study conducted at the University of Turku by Ph.D. Veli Pekka Toropainen has highlighted women in Turku as active and influential actors as far back as the 17th century and even earlier. Turku Castle’s new exhibition focuses on the intricate and rich life stories of six very different women. Some of them ran successful family businesses and took care of international trade.

Some women even worked as notable employers as they widowed. Their role was much more influental and important in the society, than it was known before.

Some of them lived more traditional lives as daughters, wives and mothers.

A scene from a film about the life of Margareta Kitt.

Kitt was sentenced to die for poisoning her husband.

Turku - a growing city In the 1600s Turku was one of the most important cities in Sweden, and home to over 6,000 inhabitants in its heyday.

Turku had staple rights for trading, and also the episcopal see, court of appeal and the seats of the Governor and the Governor General were located in Turku. The Royal Academy of Turku, which was the first university in the area of Finland, was also established in 1640. The cityscape was dominated by the Cathedral and Turku Castle, the surrounding hills with their numerous windmills together with the River Aura, which runs through the city. Turku Castle’s new exhibition A Few Words about Women takes a closer look to the 1600’s societies in Turku and the life stories of women of that time.

22

16

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ABOA VETUS & ARS NOVA MUSEUM AND M KITCHEN & CAFE ARE OPEN EVERY DAY FROM 11 AM TO 7 PM Itäinen Rantakatu 4–6, 20700 TURKU | info@aboavetusarsnova.fi | tel. +358 0 207 181 640 | www.aboavetusarsnova.fi | mkitchencafe@mbakery.fi | tel. +358 40 1979005 | www.mbakery.fi/mkitchencafe

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HANNALEENA HEISKA

IMOGEN CUNNINGHAM

EMIL NOLDE

8 Feb – 19 May 2019

7 June – 15 Sep 2019

4 Oct 2019 – 5 Jan 2020

COLLECTION :

FOUR ELEMENTS TURKU ART MUSEUM AUR AK ATU 26 TUE– FRI 11–19 SAT–SUN 11–17 W W W.TURUNTAIDEMUSEO. FI

photo: Ville Mäkilä, Museum Centre of Turku

DESPITE THE HIGH DEGREE OF CONTROL IN THE SOCIETY,

WOMEN INFLUENCED IN THINGS THROUGH THEIR MANY ROLES

AND VIGOROUSLY MADE THEIR

WAY THROUGH LIFE TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY, EVEN DURING DIFFICULT TIMES.

A movie scene depicting the life of a burgher woman.

Living in the shadows of the war In the early 17th century, Sweden was first at war with Denmark and Russia, and in particular against the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth in the Baltic and East Prussia regions. The war was caused by the monarchy disagreements among the House of Vasa, and the expansion of Sweden in Livonia, which was a region in present-day Estonia and Latvia. After making peace with Poland, the Swedish army moved to Germany in 1630 to participate in the Thirty Years’ War, which lasted until 1648. People in Turku were relieved of recruitment, but the burghers were ordered to belong to the burgher guard formed to defend the city. It was divided into companies according to city quarters, and the company commander of the Convent Quarter was the commander for the entire guard.

The Thirty Years’ War took place in Germany, and as a result of the war the focus of the foreign trade by the burghers in Turku shifted westwards during the years of the war. At the beginning of the century, the trading focused around Riga and Tallinn, but during the war, foreign trade shifted to Holland and England, and even to Spain and Portugal.

A sound reputation was the basis of everything Abiding by the rules of the society and ensuring one’s sound reputation were important to the citizens of Turku. It was very important, that the citizens in different social classes lived their lives according to the written and the non-written rules of their own social class and the surrounding society. Order and discipline reigned both in everyday life, as well as in the church. Since 1637, everyone had a named seat in the church pews determined on the basis of their social position.

The seating order did not entail silence, however, as churchgoers continued to chat amongst themselves as before during the sermon.

The sermons instructed parishioners on how to live their lives and participation in the Communion was recorded. Priests also observed the behaviour of the parishioners: promiscuity, heavy drinking, swearing and fighting were condemned.

The virtue of women was monitored even more closely than that of men. The strict rules on sexuality were based on the idea of the sanctity of marriage and only a married couple could have a sexual relationship approved by the community. A bad reputation made

The exhibition represents a rich variety of objects of the 17th century.

photo: Ville Mäkilä

photo: Aleks Talve

photo: Ville Mäkilä

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photo: Ville Mäkilä

living in the community very difficult, and it caused problems with trading relationships too. Therefore, defamation of character trials were quite common among the burghers in Turku. Family and community stood by members of the community who were considered to have a good reputation.

Turku Castle The stately Turku Castle has guarded the mouth of the Aura River since the late 13th century. The tall granite walls conceal unique moments from history within them. Over the course of its history, the castle has been defended and besieged, and its governors changed frequently in the Middle Ages. During Duke John’s era, the castle became a stage for court life, with courtiers who followed the latest fashions and enjoyed sumptuous meals. The castle later served as a barracks and prison, among other things.

The medieval rooms of the keep and the ballrooms built

by Duke John allow visitors to experience the splendour and bleakness of times past. The main exhibition and period rooms in the bailey give us a sense of what life was like throughout the centuries. For their part, the prison cells tell us of a time when almost the entire bailey functioned as a prison.

More than just a few words The exhibition depicts the lives of very different women – a countess living in Turku Castle, a murderer, a mother and wife, a widow who tirelessly fought for her rights for her own property, a successful merchant lady and an ironworks owner who was also a notable employer. The life stories of the women draw us a picture of life in which the church and society regulated notions about women’s education, station, appropriate behaviour, love and even marriage. Despite this high degree of control in the society, women influenced in things through their many roles and vigorously made their way through life to the best of their ability, even during difficult times. The war influenced in their everyday lives in many ways, as well as the continuous presence of death. There was no cure for many common diseases that spread and even a childbirth could be dangerous and lethal for women.

Some of them also lost their children or other close family members.

Exhibition A Few Words about Women from 8 March The exhibition depicts the lives of middle-class women and Countess Kristina Katarina Stenbock, who lived in Turku Castle, in 17th century Turku. The colourful lives of the women paint a picture of a time when perceptions of how girls should be brought up, what women’s status was, what was considered appropriate behaviour for women, and love and marriage in general were controlled by society and the church.

At the Fatabur Museum Shop you’ll find gifts, souvenirs and costumes for your adventurous little knight or princess.

Information to feed the imagination can be acquired from the shop’s range of books. In Duke John’s Cellar you can enjoy a refreshing cup of coffee or a delicious lunch as a break from your museum visit.

MARGARETA KITT WAS A YOUNG WIFE OF

SCOTTISH ORIGIN, WHO LIVED IN AN UNHAPPY MARRIAGE WITH HER HUSBAND, MERCHANT

MÅRTEN HOEN. HOEN DIED OF POISONING, AND

THE YOUNG WIFE WAS LATER FOUND GUILTY OF THIS HORRIBLE CRIME.

Library and the Nordic Museum in Sweden. The 17th century objects in the exhibition include beautiful textiles, silverware of different types, jewellery, different kinds of currency, numerous paintings and furniture among others. There are also historical short films about the lives of the women of different social classes on display. The films were produced in co-operation with the Arts Academy of the Turku University of Applied Sciences. In the exhibition the visitors will also get to see dress replicas made after portrait paintings of the 17th century. It is also possible for the visitors to take take their own portrait photograph in the style of the 17th century portrait paintings.

The exhibition will be open in Turku Castle until March 8th 2020. s

photo: Ania Padzik, Museum Centre of Turku

Some of them didn’t live happily ever after though, one woman that the exhibition portrays, was even accused of poisoning her husband. Margareta Kitt was a young wife of Scottish origin, who lived in an unhappy marriage with her husband, merchant Mårten Hoen. Hoen died of a poisoning, and the young wife was later found guilty of this horrible crime. Margareta was then sentenced to death.

The exhibition represents a rich variety of objects of the 17th century from six different collections from Finland and Sweden, including objects from the Museum Centre of Turku, the National Museum of Finland, the Collections of Reitz Foundation, Turku Cathedral Museum, The Crime Museum, The University of Turku’s

TURKU CASTLE The Museum is open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm and 3 Jun–1 Sep Mon–Sun 10am–6pm.

Check exceptions to opening hours turku.fi/en/turkucastle Admission Adults 12 € / 5 € (7–15 yrs) / Family ticket 29 €.

Increased ticket prices on special events.

Tour bookings tel. +358 (0)2 262 0322 or opastilaukset.linna@turku.fi Turku Castle Linnankatu 80, tel. +358 (0)2 262 0300 SEE NUMBER 73 ON MAP (PAGE 16).

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photo: WSOY

The forever-fascinating, magical world of

the Moomins

A

written BY Pauliina Eriksson

Cover art of the first Moomin book Moomins and the Great Flood, originally published in 1945.

the artist Tuulikki Pietilä. Snufkin, with his longing for a peaceful life and his own place in the world, and the outsiderly and lonely Groke have been interpreted as reflections of Tove Jansson herself.

The Moomins are also relevant to present-day concerns, as respect for nature, caring for one’s fellow human beings, and mutual acceptance are all clearly present in Jansson’s texts. Moominhouse is always a welcoming place for visitors, and no-one is excluded. Family and friendship are important themes in the books, which also throw in a touch of adventure and playfulness to spice up everyday life. One character who is particularly in touch with the times is Snufkin, a nature-lover who wanders far and wide carrying only the contents of his backpack.

And now, with a 3D animated series, the Moominvalley characters get yet another lease of life. The previous TV adaptation of the Moomins was produced in the early 1990s. The latest adaptation is a big-budget international effort that was long in the making. Much attention has been paid to the choice of voice actors. The Finnish- and Swedish-language versions are voiced by Finland’s finest acting talents, and Kate Winslet, Rosamund Pike and other superstars give Jansson’s characters their voices in English.

The series has been well received, and the first episode was watched nearly 1.5 million times in its first week.

The new TV adaptation should dispel any lingering misconceptions that Moominland and its inhabitants represent a bygone world. By keeping a firm hold on universal character traits and emotions, Jansson made sure that the world of the Moomins would remain timeless and permanently relevant. They – and their creator – are sure to continue shaping imaginations for generations to come. s

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photo: Irmeli Jung / WSOY

re you already familiar with the inhabitants of Moominvalley, created by Tove Jansson? Fond and gentle Moominmamma with her handbag, Moominpappa with his black top-hat, and the gutsy and boisterous Little My are well known to many people in Finland from picture books, television or a visit to Moominworld in Naantali, western Finland. The Moomins are especially topical this year, with the release of the new animated TV series Moominvalley.

Tove Jansson (1914–2001) was a Finnish-Swedish writer, cartoonist and painter whose Moomin creations have become an important part of the Finnish cultural tradition. The Moomins also enjoy great popularity further afield, especially in the other Nordic countries and Japan. Jansson’s books have been translated into over fifty languages, with a huge secondary market for Moomin-branded products. Moomins can be found in all sorts of places – containers, clothes, sweet bags, in theatre performances, and more.

Far from being an overnight success, however, it took years for the world to warm to Jansson’s Moomin books and the Moomin cartoons she created with her brother Lars. The Moomins themselves were also very different from what they are now. In their early days, back in the 1930s, they were black, red-eyed horned creatures – a bit on the scary side, threatening even. It was only later that they softened into the characters we know today.

The first Moomin to emerge from Jansson’s literary imagination was Moomintroll, and the first book was written in the early 1940s. The Moomins and the Great Flood Tove Jansson. was published in 1945, as World War Two came to an end. It was first published in Swedish, Jansson’s mother tongue. It was only with the third book in the series, Finn Family Moomintroll, published in 1948, that the inhabitants of Moominvalley began to make a truly big impression.

Jansson’s creations became loved by young and old alike. The author incorporated aspects of people she knew into the characters, and those who knew Jansson well were able to see themselves in one or other of the Moominvalley folk. Moomintroll has often been described as the author’s alter ego, while Moominmamma has many features of her mother. Too-Ticky, for her part, was inspired by Jansson’s long-time partner,

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19*

H ere the S ea B egins!

archipelago. Come to enjoy our summer menu, selection of seasonal drinks, street food etc.

Exhibitions

Buffet lunch Mon–Fri from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Brunch buffet Sat–Sun from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.

Cafeteria is open daily starting from 11 a.m.

rEstaurant

ConfErEnCE rooms

musEumshop

Linnankatu 72, 20100 Turku - 02 267 9511 - www.forum-marinum.fi 20

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SIBELIUS exhibition INSTRUMENT exhibition CONCERTS –

spring and autumn season Temporary exhibition 1.2.2019–5.1.2020

BEST BEER AND FOOD IN TOWN

Brewery restaurant School (Koulu) is one of Finland´s largest in Brewery-Restaurant Koulu restaurant breweries.

On the first floor is the Wine room, with dining possibility, a History classroom, the Brewery Pub as well as the brewery itself.

During weekdays we serve tasty home-made lunch from the buffet.

In the Brewery Pub craft brewed beers and ciders from our own brewery and a diverse selection of quality whiskies are served.

On the Wine room´s wine list is about 50 quality wines, several of them are also served by glass.

YLIOPISTONKATU - WALKING STREET

AURAKATU

KRISTIINANKATU

Hansa shopping center

EERIKINKATU BREWERYRESTAURANT

KOULU

Piispankatu 17, Turku | www.sibeliusmuseum.fi

Eerikinkatu 18, Puh. (02) 274 5757 www.panimoravintolakoulu.fi

Market square

TURKU TI MES

COLUMN

A Room of Her Own

that was due to my own incompetence, of course. Overall, though, there have been quite few problems given the number of hours I have spent in different hotel rooms. For me, the best hotel room is one where you don’t have to interact with the hotel staff at all. If I can avoid meeting the cleaning staff, I’m even happier.

The hotel room of my dreams would have a bathtub, bathrobe and slippers, electric kettle, writing desk and a pleasant view. Having a private sauna is such a rare luxury that I have come across it only a couple of times. Nowadays when I travel, I will gladly pay a little extra to get a room that is at least a cut above the basic level, since I know from experience that I will probably spend more time in the room than the average person. The amount of money that some other hotel guest might spend in the bar is money I’d rather spend on a nicer room.

One more reason to love hotel rooms is that, as liberating and relaxing as they are, after returning home my own bed feels like the best place in the world, at least for a couple of nights. Perhaps it would be a good idea to take a short holiday in your home town with a few nights at a hotel? You might even start to see the old familiar places from a fresh point of view, and could at least forget the housework for a while. s

Of course, over the years I have encountered all sorts of hassles in hotel rooms: noise from outside or a neighbouring room, the room is too warm, or too cold, the air conditioning is too loud, or is non-existent, the toilet is blocked, the shower doesn’t work, the floor drain is clogged... Once I had a hotel room with a shower so new-fangled that I couldn’t figure out how to get it to work. I ended up having to wash my hair while crouched down under the tap. But 28

Salla Simukka (born 1981) is a writer who lives in Tampere. She has won many awards, and her Snow White trilogy has been an international success. The rights for the novels have been sold to more than 50 countries. She has travelled all over Europe, and even to Japan, Mexico and Thailand, in connection with translations of her books.

Photo: Hanna Poropudas

I love hotel rooms. I love their anonymity, cleanliness and orderliness, creating the illusion that I am the very first person to spend the night there. I am not the least bit bothered if a hotel room is impersonal. Quite the opposite: I find that calming. Hotel rooms with their own distinctive character and quirks do have a place in my heart, but I can sincerely say I love the rooms in hotel chains, where there may well be absolutely nothing to tell you even what town or country you’re in.

Once in the room, I can let myself be whoever I want to be. The furniture and objects around me carry no memories of my own life. I have not chosen the bedlinen or bathroom products or wall colours. Nothing in the room is “me”, so my identity can also take new forms. That’s why hotel rooms are often good places to write something completely new and different, while in a way keeping it a secret from yourself. Your thoughts get to roam freely and search out untrodden paths.

Another wonderful thing about hotel rooms is that they give permission to rest, since there is simply no housework to be done.

I confess that on my travels I have often spent a downright sinful amount of time in the hotel room simply for the pleasure of being able to lie in a soft bed or in a bubble bath and read a good book. For me, this brings more happiness and is a greater luxury than checking out the restaurants or nightlife in a new town. I mostly travel alone, so for a brief period the hotel room is completely my own reality, beyond the reach of the outside world.

Written by Salla Simukka

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BREWERY

DISTILLERY

BAR

BEERS AND WHISKIES FROM OWN BREWERY AND DISTILLERY • KITCHEN OPEN TILL CLOSING TIME

TEERENPELI TURKU - EERIKINKATU 8 - WWW.TEERENPELI.COM

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Welcome to enjoy our tasty pizza, fresh pasta and à la carte dishes Find a Dennis restaurant Order take-out or delivery www.dennis.fi Linnankatu 17 +358 2 469 1191 Follow us RistoranteDennis dennisfood1975

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MEDITERRANEAN DELICACIES

BY THE RIVERSIDE Restaurant Gustavo invites you to enjoy Mediterranean specialities with a Scandinavian twist!

• Wines & pintxos • Naples style pizza • Summer terrace menu • A’la carte dinner

Reservations and information: www.gustavo.fi/en Tel. +358 46 9222 488 • Linnankatu 1, Turku

26*

Restaurant Huong Viet

Restaurant Baan Thai

The only authentic Vietnamese restaurant in Turku.

The oldest Thai restaurant in Turku. A vacation in Finland can also be a mini vacation in Thailand!

Linnankatu 27 20100 Turku

Kauppiaskatu 15 20100 Turku

Best Karaoke In Town!

Bar Pelimies Wed–Tue 16–00 Fri–Sat 16–03 Linnankatu 27, Turku

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FIVE INVITING RESTAURANTS UNDER ONE ROOF Would you like to grab a coffee, enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner or have a glass of wine? Maybe zip on a zingy cocktail in the city’s only roof top bar while admiring the views? At Wiklund you can do all of this!

We look forward to seeing you. Read more at raflaamo.fi/en/turku/wiklund

28*

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Bag full of best souvenirs!

Skassi täyteen parhaita tuliaisia!!

GET YOUR BAG FULL OF BEST SOUVENIRS AT THE MOST COMFORTABLE SHOPPING CENTER IN TURKU! YOU’LL FIND OVER 90 SHOPS AND SERVICES EASILY BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION: BUSES P2, 9, 90, 91, 99 AND 221.

TIMETABLES FOLI.FI | SKANSSISTA LÖYDÄT YLI 90 LIIKETTÄ JA PALVELUA! PERILLE PÄÄSET HELPOSTI MYÖS JULKISILLA: BUSSIT P2, 9, 90, 91, 99 JA 221. AIKATAULUT FOLI.FI

We’re open every day. Shopping Center Skanssi. | Auki joka päivä. Kauppakeskus Skanssi.

Skanssinkatu 10, Turku. Mon–fri / Ma–pe 8–21 | Sat / La 8–19 | Sun / Su 11–18 More information / Lisätietoa: skanssi.fi