August 2015 Mazama Magazine

AUGUST 2015

VOL. 97

NO. 8

Alpine Rock

True Confessions of a Novice Climber Climbing Outside the U.S. Transitioning from Indoor to Outdoor Climbing Climbing Multi-Pitch Alpine Rock

FEATURES

There & Back Again: A Tale of Two Punters, p. 6 Teton Memories, p. 8 Book Review: The Tower, p. 10 True Confessions of a Novice Climber, p. 13 How to Climb Multiptich Alpine Rock ... With Style, p. 14 Making the Transition from Indoor to Outdoor Climbing, p. 18 Climb On! Fixed Anchor Policy is Here, p. 21 Mt. Triumph Northeast Ridge, p. 22 Obituary: Gary Beck, p. 25 Rock Climbing Beyond the U.S.: Ten Random Areas, p. 30 Yggdrasil, p. 42

MONTHLY COLUMNS

Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Mazama Families, p. 26 20s & 30s, p. 28 Classics, p. 34 Trail Trips Info, p. 38 Membership Report, p. 41 Successful Climbers, p. 41 Outings, p. 44 Mazama Lodge Notes, p. 45 Executive Council Minutes, p. 46

Mazama Staff Lee Davis • Executive Director lee@mazamas.org Jamie Anderson •Member Services Manager jamie@mazamas.org Adam Baylor • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager adam@mazamas.org Sarah Bradham • Marketing & Publications Manager sarah@mazamas.org Mathew Brock • Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org Laura Burger • Membership & Development Assistant laura@mazamas.org Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager kati@mazamas.org Rick Craycraft • MMC Facility Manager rick@mazamas.org Charles Barker • Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Cover: Karen Natzel leading across the knife edge ridge on the upper half of the complete North Ridge of Mt. Stuart.

(Mazama Climb #902, July 9–12). Photo: Jeff Hawkins. This page: Laura Bax in Chamonix, France. Photo: Tyler Bax.

CONTACT US

Publications Committee

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 • 503-227-2345 • adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Open daily

publications@mazamas.org

Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, Committee Members: Bob Breivogel, Catherine Diaz, Ken Dubois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Pam Monheimer, Lacy Turner Errata: On pages 8 & 9 of the July Bulletin we mistakenly attributed the photos to the article’s author; the photos were taken by Chris Fowler. We apologize for the error.

Fundamentals of Mountaineering Dear Mazamas, I’m pleased to be writing to you from the base of Mt. Blanc, in Chamonix, France—the birthplace of alpine mountaineering. We’ve been working hard these last few years to expand the reach of our programs, and to provide more opportunities for our members to experience the great mountains and climbing areas of the world. In just the last year, Mazama outings and expeditions have visited the Himalaya, Alaska, Patagonia, Kilimanjaro, Yosemite, and the Alps.

This summer Chamonix is celebrating the 150th anniversary of the “Golden Age of Mountaineering” and events are being hosted throughout town by the Alpine Club (UK) which is the first ever association of mountain climbers, founded in 1857.

The Mazamas, as well as many other mountaineering clubs throughout the world were founded in the model of the Alpine Club over the next hundred years.

Mountaineering in its most comprehensive form brings together hiking, scrambling, snow and ice climbing, and rock climbing skills to help the alpinist reach the summit.

We at the Mazamas focus on teaching these skills and this issue of our magazine is dedicated to rock climbing, one of the most fundamental skills in all of mountaineering.

The history of rock climbing begins in the 19th century when the goals of mountaineering started to change. Originally, mountaineering was focused on science and exploration, sending parties to map and measure the highest points in various regions around the world. In the mid-1800s mountaineers started looking beyond the easiest routes to the summits of mountains and began searching for interesting, inspiring, ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 13 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 23 Centered in Motion, p. 29 Classifieds, p. 40 Climb Max Mountaineering, p. 47 Crimp Chimps, p. 37 Embark Adventures, p. 11 Evolution Healthcare & Fitness, p. 45 Green Trails, p. 12

and unclimbed lines (routes) to the tops of major peaks.

Many, if not most, of these lines involved scaling gendarmes (rock towers), cliffs, and steep rock arêtes (ridges) along the way. To prepare, legendary climbers like Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Riccardo Cassin, and others started to practice rock climbing on smaller rock faces and pinnacles throughout Western Europe. Over time, rock climbing became a legitimate sport of its own, with complex technical grading systems, specialized equipment, and worldwide competitions.

Rock climbing is fundamental to mountaineering and integral to the Mazamas mission. Even the easiest routes up notable summits like North Sister, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Washington require basic rock climbing skills and experience climbing rock in boots and even crampons.

Our core values of safety and education drive us to build and organize a community of competent mountaineers. Doing so is a big challenge as, apart from being physically and mentally demanding, mountaineering is often considered to be one of the most dangerous activities in the world.

No amount of teaching and experience can make mountaineering a truly safe endeavor.

We simply cannot control the mountains, and if you climb in the mountains enough you will inevitably see unpredictable rock fall, freak avalanches, and extreme weather changes.

Today rock climbing is exploding in popularity, with literally millions of new climbers learning to climb 5.10 and harder at urban gyms and then independently visiting

Advertise with us! tinyurl.com/MazamaAdvertising Montbell, p. 24 Mountain Shop, p. 36 Mountaineers Books, p. 7 Next Adventure, p. 35 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 20 Petzl, p. 19 SMC Gear, p. 43 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 49 Yatvin Computer Consultants, p. 20

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT

crags and wandering into the mountains.

We, as well as our partners at the American Alpine Club and the Access Fund, are actively working to find ways to teach basic crag safety and ethics to this new mass of climbers.

The impact of all of these new climbers on our sport and the environment is evident if you visit Smith Rock State Park on a nice spring or fall weekend. We at the Mazamas think that all of those new climbers should have easy access to classes to teach them how to climb outdoors safely. And all of us as climbers need to learn how to minimize our impact on the physical environment and not diminish the experiences of others.

Climbing in the mountains is one of the most rewarding, joyful, and intensely exciting experiences we can have in our lives. Several years of experience, training, and mastery of the fundamental skills of mountaineering can greatly mitigate the inherent risks and lead to a lifetime of enjoying and protecting the mountains.

Lee Davis

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas. org). Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org.

Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

AUGUST 2015

3

The Importance of Culture

by Sojo Hendrix, Mazama President Over the last several years the Executive Council (EC), committees, and staff have worked diligently on crafting and implementing a meaningful strategic plan for Mazamas. Out of that hard work, we now have nine strategic projects each complete with their own funding plans. These projects aim to deliver under the collective umbrella goals of Expand, Enhance, and Explore. It is an exciting time of growth. A time that I have described as one that has Mazamas poised for greatness like never before. Our strategic plan and projects give us the framework to aggressively pursue our mission of “promoting mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety, and the protection of mountain environments.” In addition to all of this work on strategy, my time on EC has also found me deep in Mazamas culture. I recently recalled an adage from management guru, Peter Drucker, who famously said “culture eats strategy for lunch.”

I’ve been thinking a lot about our culture during my time on EC and particularly during this past year as President.

Generally, culture is about learned behaviors deemed acceptable and passed on through various socializations. I think the important concept is “acceptable.”

Mazamas engage in difficult and dangerous pursuits that are reflected in our reputation for being hard core. I think being hard core is part of our cultural identity but definitely only part of the story. Who didn’t get a kick out of this line in a 2014 Terry Richard Oregonian article about the Portland Alpine Festival? “The alpine festival necessarily has a hard edge to it, since hard is what the Mazamas do.”

But beneath the rugged exterior, how do we collectively pursue what we do?

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Hopefully by fully embracing our values at all times. Values that are book-ended

by Safety and Respect. Our education offerings are second to none in many ways, e.g. curriculum, volunteerism, and especially safety. Our activity programs are diverse and bring joy to many who are safely able to achieve their outdoor goals. Our committees work to deliver quality education and first class programs.

If you are at the MMC a lot like I am, you know how hard our staff and volunteers work to engage, support, and promote our organization. In order to continue to do all of this great work, we must strive to be respectful, inclusive, supportive, collaborative, and treat one another well.

On the foundation of our strategic plan, the Mazamas are evolving towards a more diverse, community-engaging, 21st-century organization. Our culture must continue to evolve as well. Both strategy and culture are crucial for continued growth and success. Over the last couple of years, in an effort to set some cultural parameters, staff and Executive Council have implemented a new Disciplinary Policy, a Volunteer Code of Conduct, and added Respect to our list of values. With some parameters in place, we can continue in an more organic pursuit of the culture we want.

We must also consider that we are rapidly expanding our Families programming, exposing more and more youth to our organization—and culture. What example shall we set for them?

I will be leaving EC in a month’s time. It has been an honor to serve on the council as a director and as vice-president and president. My request to every member, especially those in leadership, is to model and to expect the sort of organizational culture you want to have. The one you want written about in the Oregonian and the one you want your kids to experience.

An organization that embraces our values of safety, education, volunteerism, community, competence, credibility, stewardship, and respect. The kind that climbs high and is supportive, just, and respectful throughout. In this way, we all win. After all, our culture ultimately reflects what we are really made of. See you in the hills, Mazamas.

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Anniversary Week Retrospective

Did you follow our Anniversary Week coverage on Facebook? If not, you can still go back and review all the posts at facebook.com/mazamas.pdx. You’ll enjoy a 121-year journey through the archives of the Mazamas. This photo is from the founding Mazamas climb of Mt. Hood on July 19, 1894 via the Cooper Spur route.

Community Outreach Aug. 9 and 23

Represent the Mazamas at community events in August. We need folks to staff the Mazamas table from 4–6 p.m. on Aug. 9 at the Evolution Healthcare & Fitness Grand Opening. We also need volunteers at our pop-up tent at Laurelhurst Park on Aug. 23 for the Sunday Parkways event from about 10:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. We will provide equipment, brochures, and talking points; you bring your enthusiasm!

Contact outreach@mazamas.org if you’d like to help out with these or future events.

Hike Leader Needed Late August

The North Coast State Forest Coalition and our allies/partners are planning a campaign to create some positive awareness and investment in the Wilson River corridor (Tilllamook State Forest) this summer. They are making a very distinct effort around protecting the Kings/ Elk Mountain area. At the end of the summer (probably late August) they will be putting on a celebratory activity day that highlights many of the recreation opportunities in the area. They’d like the Mazamas to collaborate on this by leading a hike and joining them for a BBQ afterwards. Please contact Adam Baylor (Adam@mazamas.org), our Stewardship & Advocacy Manager, or Chris Smith (chris. smith.505@gmail.com) with the Coalition for more information if you’d like to lead a hike for this event.

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES

Education Committee Third Wednesday of the Month

Education Committee manages the educational programs at the Mazamas.

The committee works with the subcommittees to update curriculum and provide oversight and educational expertise. The committee also runs an education scheduling meeting in May to plan all educational activities for the upcoming class year. The committee meets every-other month and works on projects remotely in between meetings.

For more information, join the August meeting (Aug. 19), or contact Chair Andrew Bodien, education@mazamas.org.

Conservation Committee Third Wednesday of the Month

The Conservation Committee seeks members to support our efforts to protect the alpine environments where we climb.

The committee is preparing to launch some interesting community outreach and advocacy projects and would like new members to spearhead these efforts. We invite you to attend our next committee meeting on Wednesday, Aug. 19 at 7 p.m. at the MMC, to learn more about how you can get involved.

Trail Tending on Mt. Hood Aug. 15

Join a work party on Yocum Ridge Trail.

Work will include cutting downed trees, repairing tread and other basic trail maintenance. Requires strenuous hiking so volunteers need to be fit and capable of all-day work while carrying tools. Sign up by contacting Adam Baylor, adam@mazamas.org. More about this and other stewardship opportunities at mazamas.org/ activities-events/trail-tending/

Lead Hikes for Kids

2016 RTM Coordinators

Already a Mazama hike leader? Interested in becoming one? You can lead hikes for a variety of groups at the Mazamas—this month we would like to encourage you to help us and our partners get kids onto trails. The Mazama Families hiking program encourages kids and parents to hike together, and they are looking for new hike leaders. Our partner program, the Sierra Club Inner City Outings program, is also currently recruiting hike leaders to introduce at-risk youth to the beauty of the trails. Contact the families program, families@ mazamas.org, or the volunteer manager, kati@mazamas.org to learn more.

After two years of masterfully running the annual Round the Mountain program, our current coordinators will be retiring from the event next year and are looking to hand the program off to a pair (or trio) of enthusiastic volunteers. This project requires planning through the fall, winter, and spring, and then concentrated time during the summer to ramp up for the event over Labor Day weekend.

Coordinators have the support of past program chairs and of the Mazama office. Contact rtm@ mazamas.org to learn more and ask questions.

Ongoing

Ongoing

Evaluation Volunteers Ongoing

The Mazamas is working to measure the impact and outcomes of our new youth outreach programs, and needs help compiling and analyzing the information we collect on our pre- and post-program surveys.

If you have experience with program and data evaluation, consider helping out. This project can be done remotely and on your own schedule.

Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@ mazamas.org if you would like to help.

KATI MAYFIELD VOLUNTEER MANAGER KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG

Kati Mayfield joined the Mazamas as Volunteer Manager in 2012. In this role she supports Mazama volunteers by connecting them with the resources and information they need to fulfill their duties; and by helping new volunteers engage in meaningful ways. Kati also manages the Youth Outreach Program, geared towards creating opportunities for kids in our community to learn about and play in the mountains.

AUGUST 2015

5

A Tale of Two Punters

by Jeremy Lubkin his tale begins as I walk past Testament Crack at the end of a long day of clipping bolts at Smith Rock. After some deliberation, I decide to lead it, proving my worth as more than a sport climber. The event makes it onto Facebook, planting a seed in Katie’s mind … alpine rock with Jeremy? She suggests an adventure.

T

Some weeks later Katie followed through on her threat and asked me to climb Slesse. I had heard of the mountain but knew nothing about it. I accept. Based on prior experiences I assume it is far away, probably scary, and poses a decent risk I will die. I poke around the interwebs and find it is indeed far but offers a reasonable approach, is mostly-solid rock, and can be climbed car to car in a day. This could be fun!

Eventually, free weekends and weather patterns align. With rain forecast through early Friday, we plan a leisurely drive Saturday morning, a climb Sunday, and a drive back late Sunday night. After a brief panic trying to locate my passport, all is set. The drive is painless and we cross the Canadian border with plenty of time to carbo-load near Chilliwack before heading to the trailhead. Katie gently navigates my SUV over the heavily rutted forest service road and we arrive at the unmistakable trailhead marked by “Slesse Mountain ->” carved into a lo . By 7 p.m. we are settled in our tent watching a movie on Katie’s iPhone until we fall asleep.

We awake to alarms and by 3:30 a.m. two happy climbers are scampering down the trail. An easy path leads to a memorial plaque honoring the victims of the 1956 Flight 810 crash and on to the infamous “Propeller Cairn.” We snack while waiting for a little more light before crossing beautiful glacier-polished granite slabs towards the “obvious notch.” Though I was certain a different notch was “obvious,” Katie quickly convinced me of the proper path.

Continuing up slabs past the much-melted Pocket Glacier,

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we arrive at the 3rd class bypass ramp. Arriving first, I take the lead. Our first mistake. For those who have not climbed, hiked, driven, or walked down the street with me before, let’s just say I am “navigationally challenged.” I reach the stump-ledge, clearly mentioned in the route beta. Katie racks up to lead the first several pitches of mostly 4th and low 5th class climbing. As she sets off, no easy route appears. I check the route description and realize I stopped too soon and the path clearly curves around a boulder and continues several hundred feet to a clump of trees. After appropriate scorn, we are back on track and Katie easily finds her way as we simul-climb to the first “real” pitch. Katie takes on this and the next several very enjoyable pitches, bringing us to the escape traverse.

Escape? NEVER! We opt for the original route and I take over lead at the 5.10 pitch.

Remember that part about “navigationally challenged”? I clearly remember the route beta stating “keep left,” but after a fun 5.8 crack section, right seems a better choice. I enter a land of fun, type 2 climbing on somewhat solid rock with almost enough protection as I think, “I have no idea if this is the right way but I am pretty sure it’s not.” Realizing I won’t make it to anywhere safe I build an anchor and bring Katie up.

A short pitch bonus puts us back on route and I lead up the next few pitches. We reach the “gigantic bivy’”where easy simul-climbing leads to more moderate pitches as the hours pass. More hours pass before we reach the east side traverse providing an alternate summit path. We are weary and thirsty, and given the time we opt for 4th class traversing, bypassing the last two pitches. As 5:30 p.m. arrives we are both safely on the summit. We are also both out of water and a LONG way from the car.

With daylight remaining and plenty of determination, we review the descent beta for Crossover Pass and find our way to the first rap station. After two short rappels and some route-finding fun we descend a gully and reach Crossover Ridge. Not realizing we had to

INSPIRATION FOR YOUR NEXT ASCENT DRAWN: THE ART OF ASCENT

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. . We’re told it’s would be over . the 401(k). kids, my adventures start stockpiling married and had a better car, and that once I was a bigger house and “People told me , settle down, buy for me.” good to get comfortable right for everyone. It wasn’t right But that’s not necessarily college and mortgage,” “somewhere between friend part by his intrepid Collins found himself climber Jeremy tion. Inspired in four cardinal At 32, artist and need for transforma to travel in the within a profound Jeremy resolved balance and recognized in an avalanche, and to explore a on first ascents, had died tragically himself who Copp, challenge Jonny west—to of home. south, east, and and the necessity directions—north, of wilderness adventure between the pursuit

Jeremy Collins

“..a beautiful book to display as well as a meaningful book on friendship and chasing dreams..”

achieved. of summits lost and will visual exploration to life he discovers textured, and soulful realized approach of Ascent is a rich, else is there?” the more fully Drawn: The Art and asked, “What is Jeremy’s catalyst, out an office window Although climbing who has ever looked resonate with anyone

featured in Rock Collins are frequently and art of Jeremy of outdoorbooks, on a variety The illustrative maps . For this magazines, in numerous and Ice and Alpinist of National Geographic and on the cover Mark Jenkins, Jeff adventure products, Tommy Caldwell, Dana partners included project, his climbing Miranda, Mikey Schaefer, film Pat Goodman, José see a Achey, James Q Martin, Kennedy. Visit Jeremy—and Rich, and Hayden Drummond, Corey www.jercollins.com.

—at Drawn of version

– Goodreads review 1/26/15 11:03 AM

DrawnCover_Final.indd 1

OVER THE EDGE: A TRUE STORY OF KIDNAP AND ESCAPE IN THE MOUNTAINS OF CENTRAL ASIA Greg Child

TRAVERSE the ridge, we spend a bit of time NOT finding the rappel anchors, located at the other side. Light fades, as do the batteries in Katie’s headlamp. Fortunately she has a small flashlight from my car. Unfortunately it is lost, and she reverts to her iPhone flashlight. We carefully navigate along the path and begin our search for the “critical rappel” anchors. And we continued our search. Chilly. Thirsty. Tired. 9 p.m. We decide it is safer to bivy and find our way in the morning light. Finding as much shelter as we can, we put our feet in our packs, don all our clothing, and snuggle restlessly on the ridge as the evening fades. Sometime in the pre-dawn hours … “Do you think it’s light enough? Maybe.” Again not finding the rap station we pretend to sleep. Awakening to morning light we find slings a few feet from where we slept. A quick rap takes us to Crossover Pass just as stunning sunrise views bring abundant smiles, giving us energy and assurance that being here is much better than being at work.

We soon find water and our spirits continue to rise. Making our way into the woods we are overjoyed by an abundant supply of huckleberries! This is my first wilderness huckleberry experience and we gorge ourselves. Light sprinkles begin to fall and we barrel down the steepening path. We rejoin the approach trail near the memorial plaque as the rains increase.

Finally reaching the car, we are wet, tired, and very pleased with ourselves. We pile back in and I (slightly less gently) navigate the SUV down the forest road and we make our journey home.

The Northeast Buttress of Slesse Mountain is listed as one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America, and rightfully so. A mild approach, 2,500 vertical feet of quality rock, exposure, adventure, inspiring views, great memories, and, if you are lucky, huckleberries!

ROCK CLIMBING: MASTERING BASIC SKILLS, 2ND ED. Topher Donahue & Craig Luebben

LEGENDS & LORE Find more Legends & Lore mountaineering adventures at www.mountaineersbooks.org/legends

THAT UNTRAVELLED WORLD Eric Shipton

NEW FROM AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING, 2015

Available in book and outdoor stores, or online at www.mountaineersbooks.org More than 600 outdoor recreation, lifestyle and conservation books in print Mountaineers Books is an independent nonprofit publisher

Slesse sunrise. Photo: Jeremy Lubkin.

Teton

Memories

By Brian Montalto

W

hat makes a climb memorable? If you’ve just started climbing, perhaps you can recall all of them perfectly, but as you add years and summits to your experience, some memories fade or run together. Others remain more clearly imprinted in your mind. Having heard a lot of “war stories” told around campfires and JetBoils, I believe there may be a few universal characteristics that make a person recall a climb clearly. But many of the memorable moments may depend on one’s personality and values.

First, I think any sort of drama on a climb is pretty unforgettable: spending the night on route unexpectedly, serious falls or other mishaps to yourself or your party, getting terribly lost, returning to camp hours overdue or in the pitch black of night always seems to remain permanently in climbers’ minds and make for excellent tales of adventure. Beyond that, I think climbs become memorable when they fulfill something important to the climbers. For some folks, it is the unforgettable scenic beauty; for others, it’s the technical or physical challenge that leaves its imprint. For still others, the climb itself doesn’t matter as much as the group; it’s the company and camaraderie that creates the lasting memory. Personally, I’m a bit of a perfectionist, so flawless

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climbing, conditions, or execution makes climbs stick in my mind, e.g. my tandem climb of Leuthold’s Couloir, without ropes, on a bitingly cold and clear day in early spring. Drama never fails to leave an impression; so getting lost in a whiteout near Misery Hill on Mt. Shasta became a defining event. I also savor the feeling of individual accomplishment when the task is particularly challenging or long, making my trip up Cube Point in the Tetons, and my summits of Cotapaxi and Rainier memorable. Here’s my trip report from the Cube Point climb: In July 2013, my wife Amanda and I travelled to Jackson, Wyoming for vacation, with the intention of doing some rock climbing or mountaineering. After a few days spent in the area waiting out storms and climbing on “The Grand,” Amanda challenged me to find another “doable” mountain climb. Unfortunately, a lot of the climbs in the Tetons area require a large amount of commitment, physical stamina, time, technical skill, or some combination of the above; we were short on several of these, making my search a tall order.

Finally, I located a potential objective: the East Ridge of Cube Point, a ~9,600 ft. peak that rises above Cascade Canyon, near Jenny Lake. The route sounded straightforward, and it fit our criteria, at 2,800 ft. up from the trailhead, 6 hours estimated time (by the book), and 5.4 climbing.

The morning of our adventure, we headed out early to Jenny Lake in Teton National Park. We parked the car and chose to take advantage of the regular ferry across the lake, to cut off several miles

of flat hiking along the shore. We made a mental note, though, that we would have to get back to the ferry landing by the last boat or return on foot around the lakeshore. Once on the opposite side of the lake, we walked north on the lake trail, then northwest on an obvious climber’s trail that headed into Hanging Canyon.

The trail led up a somewhat steep slope awash in abundant summer wildflowers and resplendent with views back toward the lake. Farther up, the trail took us up through a cliff band and near a waterfall en route to Arrowhead Pool in the upper canyon. From that point, we started following the East Ridge route description; as usual, it was relatively vague, but after reading it enough times while looking at the area you we figure it out. We continued cross-country through a large boulder field into the drainage below the east couloir. There we found some typically faint crisscrossing climbers’ trails and scrambled up the couloir. Then, per the book, we picked a spot that looked like it had doable climbing on the NW wall of the couloir, and stopped to drop packs and gear up.

I have always had some anxiety around attempting a lightly travelled and/or indistinct route such as this, especially at the start of a technical climb. Without any markings of any sort to indicate where to begin, I knew we just had to take an educated leap of faith, knowing we might get pretty far up before discovering we had started in the wrong place and that our chosen path led nowhere or into climbing above our skill level! Once we were ready, I led up the first pitch and after only 60 ft.

found a good belay spot at a solid tree growing in a notch. I built an anchor and belayed Amanda up, then proceeded to get the rope hopelessly tangled in trying to “flip it” and go back on lead. Once we sorted that out, I led straight up the wall beyond the notch, jogged right around a step in the ridge, and up the backside of the ridge to a lower angle, knobby face with little protection opportunities. At one point I got that terribly nervous feeling that I think every traditional climber eventually gets, knowing that I was way run-out and into an area that felt like it wasn’t leading anywhere. I realized that the lack of protection, rope drag, and lack of communication with my belayer probably was going to make any fall painful. I felt shaky and sick to my stomach. Fortunately, I was able to back off slightly, then head up and right, over another small subridge to a belay ledge, where I could see the summit and remaining route. Vocal communication was impossible at this point, so I attempted the predefined rope-tug sequence to let Amanda know when my anchor was built and she was on belay. Once she joined me at the ledge, we flipped the rope once more, scoped out the final sequence, and then I set out along the ridge. It was fun, varied climbing with some face climbing, an easy hand crack, an old tree root to use as a hold, some run-out scrambling, and then a final “vertical-jump-and-mantle-up” move on the summit “Cube.” Once I savored the top for a moment and Amanda snapped a picture of me in a triumphant pose, I hopped down and belayed her in to the

finish. From a nice spot just below the summit, we enjoyed a quick lunch while taking in the spectacular views of Mt. Owen to the south. I swear Mt. Doom in Lord of the Rings must have been modeled off that rugged-looking peak.

Our hunger dispatched, we began the non-trivial task of figuring out the descent.

We knew there was a downscramble into the top of the east couloir (where we left our packs below), so we just peered over the edge in several spots before finding one that looked inviting. We built an anchor, and Amanda rapped down to inspect the route in safety and confirmed our choice.

We had chosen wisely. I took down the anchor and downclimbed to her, and we proceeded, unroped, back to our bags.

Whew! We had done it! And we weren’t pressed for time, either, although we didn’t have a lot to waste. Once we packed up the gear, we headed back down the couloir and across the talus slope to the climber’s trail.

Back down the canyon we went, and before long, we were back at the ferry landing in time to catch the next-to-last boat.

Of course I was elated at the end of the climb, filled with a sense that we had accomplished something challenging and fun, and we had spent some quality time together in the wilderness. In the days afterward, I decided that this was one of my most fulfilling climbs, for a couple of reasons. I felt like we hadn’t depended on beta or a guide; also, we had used a combination of the right gear and the right

skills to climb a true ‘wilderness’ rock climb. Upon later reflection, I realized that this was one of my first climbs that was untrammeled, with no anchor chains or paint spots, tree blazes, chalk marks, fellow climbers, or any other signs of human presence besides the faint climber’s trail that led to the couloir entrance. We had figured out the route, climbed, picked our own belay spots and protection points, and figured out the descent, making a few mistakes and correcting them along the way. I have no way of knowing if the route I chose was the exact same as the guidebook description, but ultimately, it doesn’t much matter. This was my first climb of this character, and I have to say, it was extremely satisfying and memorable.

I think if you reflect on the climbs that stand out in your mind, and then think about why they do so, you might just discover (or perhaps reaffirm) what’s important to you as a climber and perhaps as a person. In any case, get out there and climb, take some risks, spend time with other climbers and enjoy your own memories in the mountains. They are priceless.

Left page: Brian Montalto on the summit of Cube Point. Right page: Amanda Montalto on Mt. Owen.

AUGUST 2015

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BOOK REVIEW

The Tower

A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy on Cerro Torre by Kelly Cordes

by Barry Maletzky

T

he old cliché’ goes that “this book was so fascinating, I couldn’t put it down.” I read this nearly 400 page book in a single day…and yes, I did have other things I should have been doing.

Cordes is not a poet. He is a former editor of the American Alpine Journal and spares us the lofty abstractions and philosophies of why people climb; he simply, but elegantly, describes and reports what his extensive researches have revealed: the history of climbing and its major controversies on this singular piece of rock, fittingly born from the chaos of nature at the ends of the earth—in Patagonia.

Of course there is the “king” of the Patagonian Andes—Fitzroy to the east, but its routes had been scaled by 1957.

Then there are the Towers of Paine to the south, all monuments of upthrust that

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must be seen to be believed. But standing on the Torres Glacier some years ago, staring in awe at the tower they call Cerro Torre, I could only be reminded of the famed painting by Edvard Munch of “The Scream,” suddenly turned to stone. Shorter than Mt. Baker, Cerro Torre has driven once-sane mountaineers mad, and sometimes dead. Driving across the desolate and flat Argentinean pampas, these Patagonian ranges appear from 100 miles away as some deranged metropolis, with skyscrapers either designed by an alien architect or part of a science fiction movie set. Rows of sharpened shark’s teeth draw closer and only amplify this impression. No wonder the world’s leading alpinists have been drawn to what were considered the last of the “impossible” towers to be attempted.

One of these, the famed Italian Cesare Maestri, “the spider,” teamed with Toni Egger, “the ice dancer,” to dare the north face of Cerro Torre in 1959. Any route on the Tower is the equal of three stacked “Noses” on El Capitan, but ascended in 100 mph winds, -20 degree temperatures, and

with fangs of icy shards constantly pelting the would-be climber. Maestri claimed success but, unfortunately, Egger died in an avalanche on the descent and his camera has never been recovered, though his leg bones have been more recently discovered gruesomely sticking out of his ancient climbing boots on the glacier below. Few climbers today believe Maestri’s bold claim: if true, it would have been the equivalent of your grandmother climbing K2 in her bare feet and nightgown. In 1959, even the “ice dancer” would have had to chop holds and climb vertical to overhanging ice with a single 75cm bamboo-shaft ice axe and flexible crampons. No pterodactyls, Quasars, or even Foot Fangs for these early alpinists! Maestri claimed to have placed 60 bolts for protection above the “Col of Conquest” yet none have ever been found.

Moreover, following this “conquest,” Maestri could not accurately describe the route nor point it out on a scale model of the Tower. Those who have subsequently climbed it, among the top climbers of the present era, had the advantage of modern

equipment and rated the climb between 5.12 to 5.13, with the need for two modern ice tools for vertical or impossible overhanging ice to tunnel through the rime frostings that constitute the true top. Indeed, these vary from year to year and at times seem to defy Newton, with buttresses and cornices hanging perpendicular to the main walls. In an odd twist, Maestri tried to “prove” he could climb the Tower by using an air compressor drill in 1970 (sponsored by the drill company).

He placed a bolt ladder up an adjacent (and easier) route, standing in etriers as he progressed, thereby engineering a scaffolding upon which he claimed again to conquer the beast. Unfortunately, he did not even attempt to climb the final rime ice cream formations to the top. These are arrayed as icy soldiers blocking rational progress, but Maestri claimed these were not the “true” summit anyway, as they shifted annually.

The controversy has died down in recent years, though Maestri, still alive in his late 80s, refuses to discuss the issue (and typically refused to speak with Cordes about the Tower). Perhaps nothing fixes something in his memory as the wish to forget it. PostWorld War Two, Italy longed for a necessary hero and even today, there exist octogenarian Italian climbers who believe Maestri’s claim.

But the controversy these days seems as pointless (though no less fascinating) as a vegetarian vampire. Until 2012, hundreds of lesser climbers had employed the bolted compressor route to reach the Tower’s summit, though more stopped short of the fantastical rime formations that wind and ice sculpt each year that form the true summit.

In that year, with not only modern equipment but far superior weather forecasts, American superstar Hayden Kennedy and Canadian ace Jason Kruk not only repeated the Compressor Route without clipping any of Maestri’s bolts, but had the audacity (some would say the honest passion) to remove the majority of these as they descended. Were they afraid?

Certainly, they replied, but without fear, there can be no bravery. The “Impossible” Tower had been climbed by fair means. Some in the climbing community were outraged that history had been destroyed and the route desecrated. But can history ever be wiped away? Can original desecration be further vandalized? No matter these days: There are now 14 routes up Cerro Torre; the toughest, the southeast face, was subsequently soloed

by Austrian David Lama and, in 2013, Austrian hardman Markus Pucher free-soloed the route in three hours and 15 minutes: such has the climbing world changed!

Cordes, who himself has climbed the Tower, honors these controversies without relying exclusively on them to bring the story of Cerro Torre to life. He enlivens these Patagonian tales with the exploits and eccentricities of other famous climbers and their attempts on Cerro Torre, including the tales of nonclimbing actors, such as an “official” historian of Italian climbing and an elderly and kind librarian in Buenos Aires, all of whom helped the author with his meticulous probes. As expected in a Patagonian text, other-worldly color photos enhance the text and Cordes provides a number of helpful Appendices, including a chronology, glossary, bibliography and even a brief biography of the main players in this South American odyssey. My only trivial complaint is his lack of comparison, or even mention, of equally difficult towers in the Baltoro area of Pakistan, such as the Trango Towers and Uli Biaho. On the other hand, his focus is admirable.

It is perhaps a tragedy of history that Cesare Maestri, the spider of the Dolomites and the author of over 3,000 first ascents, many of them solo, will be remembered mostly as the creator of a myth. It is of equal wonder that the early climbers of the 1960s and 70s would even attempt such bold routes. Should foreigners (an American and Canadian) been so brash as to decompress the Compressor Route? After all, one of the Mazamas’ goals is for more people to enjoy climbing and the bolts allowed many to scale the Tower who would never have dared without it. To follow that logic, however, was the Compressor Route the equivalent of a ski lift up Mt. Rainier or an elevator to the summit of Hood? Cordes, and most climbers, now agree that climbing a difficult route “by fair means” represents the best of our sport. As Maestri himself put it: “Impossible mountains do not exist, only mountaineers who cannot climb them.”

Read this riveting text to see where you stand amongst these controversies. I believe you will agree with Cordes that the magic of the mountains must always ring true.

Mazama Library number 918.2.C81

AUGUST 2015

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Your Bulletin, Your Stories

You don’t need to be a writer to share your story. We have writers who can help!

Submit your article or idea to: publications@ mazamas.org or sarah@mazamas.org.

How You Can Share Your Experiences

by Sarah Bradham, Mazama Marketing & Publications Manager You may have noticed a few changes to the Mazama Bulletin over the last few years. This publication has transformed from an administrative document, containing upcoming events, classes, hikes, successful climbers lists, executive council minutes, and committee reports, to a full featured magazine that continues to provide you with all of the administrative details of the organization, in addition to feature articles and photos.

If you are a Mazama member you can take a walk down memory lane on the Mazama website. In the members section under “Read

the Monthly Bulletin” you can view issues of the Bulletin dating back to 2000. This is a long enough journey to give you a feel for how much has changed.

Just in the last 4 years the Bulletin size has increased from a standard 24 pages to 32 pages, with April 2015 and this issue being 48 pages. What has filled those pages? Feature articles, book reviews, how-to sections, and photos. Along with the increase in pages came the most noticeable update ... color.

The feedback on these changes has been overwhelmingly positive, and your Publications Committee is striving to not only continue on this track but to keep the improvements coming. To meet this goal we need your help!

The Mazamas has a diverse membership and we want to make sure that diversity is represented in these pages. Each article written, each photo printed, is added to the

history of this organization. Step up and become a part of that history by telling your story. Tell us about your climb, your hike, your outing, your conservation efforts, and your research. Share your voice and your experiences with the Mazamas and with the outdoor community.

I can hear what you are thinking, “But I’m not a writer.” Maybe you don’t have a knack for grammar or turning a phrase, but we have people who can help! The Publications Committee does have writers and editors who are ready to take the “bones” of your story and help you turn them into a wellwritten tale.

As you are out adventuring this summer think about sharing your experience. Take a shot at writing it down, and then drop us a line at publications@mazamas.org or sarah@ mazamas.org to take the next step.

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Multipitch Alpine Rock …

how to climb

by Katie Mills I used to shy away from long alpine rock routes because hey, when have I ever climbed more than, say, four pitches in a day? Never! There was no way I’d risk getting stuck on some heinous ledge, shivering and thirsty, reluctantly spooning with a stinky climbing partner, praying for the sun to come up.

So I kept climbing in my slow, tedious fashion. Along the way I read some books, endured some ridicule about my bad habits, started training harder, and picked up tips for more efficient climbing. I’d like to share some of them with you.

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REDUCE PACK WEIGHT Pack weight will make or break you. Do you want to climb the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart in two days or four?

When I did the complete North Ridge of Stuart, the only thing I brought for camping was a one-pound sleeping bag. I slept on top of the rope and the back pad from my pack. Besides the clothes I wore, I carried only a lightweight puffy. If you’re doing a day trip, ask yourself whether you can get by with only one pack for the following climber to carry. No, you will not bring your “ten essentials” on a vertical rock climb where speed is safety.

How little water can you carry? While doing Stuart’s North Ridge, we left the ground with 2 liters per person. It’s true we had no water from the summit until we hit Ingalls Creek five hours later. It was uncomfortable, but we were fine. If

I weren’t willing to suffer a little, I’d have stuck with cragging.

I started wearing minimalist trail runners on approaches. They work great and weigh much less in my pack than a pair of hiking boots.

Check out Extreme Alpinism by Mark Twight if you want to learn more about what you really need in your pack on a climb. Also, get a lighter pack! I have a small, very lightweight pack I affectionately refer to as my “crusher pack.” It weighs so little it makes me CRUSH! CiloGear makes some great light ones and they are made here in Portland.

DO YOUR HOMEWORK How did people climb before the advent of the internet? I would have just wandered around lost in the forest.

These days, people put topos on the internet! Sometimes they post photos of

Rebecca Schob high up on Paisano Pinnacle as Burgundy Spire looms in the background. Photo: Katie Mills. Inset: Katie Mills enjoying granite for days on the north ridge of Mt. Stuart, Washington. Photo: Todd Eddie.

mountains with giant red lines painted on them where the routes go!

Study these in town. The better you research the route, the less time you will waste staring at your topo while on route.

Know what to expect at different points during the climb. Don’t be the person who does no research and therefore can be of no use when it comes to making navigational decisions. Two informed people are much more likely to make the right decision than one. Getting off route can really ruin your day. If the route looks weird or untraveled, backtrack before you make things worse. People who are “really good at navigation and route finding” probably aren’t any better than you; they just studied the beta beforehand.

SPEED UP TRANSITIONS Many people climb with no sense of urgency. A leisurely pace is fine until you

have 20 pitches to complete before the sun goes down. Transition times should take no more than five minutes. Rack gear properly as you clean it. Stop lollygagging.

You’ll find more tips in Speed Climbing

by Hans Florine and Bill Wright, a highly informative and enjoyable read.

BE A VIGILANT BELAYER Always keep the rope tight on the follower so he/she can climb as fast as possible. I had a partner who thought he was saving time when he stopped belaying me so he could eat. But I wasn’t climbing while he wasn’t belaying. So he really saved us no time. Followers should climb as fast as possible. This is alpine and there is no glory on top rope anyway. Pull on gear and do whatever else it takes to move as fast as you can.

DIAL IN ANCHOR SKILLS Take two bomber pieces, each of which you’d trust your life on (three if you’re hanging precariously, or taking a Mazama class), and tie them together with a power point. What are you bumbling around for with your wishy-washy decision-making?

Stop wasting precious time! If you can’t build an anchor quickly stick to a smaller scale climb until you’re ready.

AVOID ROPE DRAG One time my lead climber led the route then had such horrible rope drag he couldn’t pull the rope up, so I just stood there dumbly wondering why he wasn’t taking in slack and doing nothing forever.

Don’t let that happen to you! When in doubt, extend! If you really need a piece

continued on next page AUGUST 2015

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Multi-Pitch Rock,

continued from previous page

in a wandering area you know is going to cause horrible rope drag, will it be possible to get above the difficult part and then remove it? Check behind you periodically to make sure your rope isn’t caught on a horn or flake.

COMBINE PITCHES LIKE A BOSS No matter how many pitches the guidebook or topo says (22? 26?), climbing 1,500 to 2,000 feet normally takes a whole day and breaks down into 10 to12 full rope-length pitches. Yes you must run pitches together. Bring a few more slings and rock gear than you normally would. A full rope length pitch is 200 feet. That’s the equivalent of six routes at most climbing gyms. No wonder I’m so exhausted after each outside lead. You have to climb at least twice a week to maintain the endurance needed for a full day of full-length pitches. Hate the rock gym? You’re thinking about it wrong. The rock gym is like a McDonald’s Playland except for adults! I get to go play with my friends! Oh and I get stronger and more badass in the process. This doesn’t seem to happen when I go to happy hour. Cardio and overall fitness is important, too, for building the endurance necessary to tackle long pitches. So keep up the running, biking, rowing, etc.

SHOULD YOU SIMUL-CLIMB? Simul-climbing will speed your journey, but fewer pieces of pro and more slack in the rope creates a lot of risk. In deciding whether to simul-climb, consider the terrain. Is it below you and your partner’s ability? Ok, then maybe.

More difficult than you expected? Better not. The weaker climber should lead while the stronger follows because if the follower falls, he can rip the leader off the wall. I am comfortable with simul-climbing when I lead since I’m so small I feel like I’m on belay with a portable anchor following behind me.

So maybe you followed all this advice and had an unplanned bivy anyway because you left your new headlamp batteries on the coffee table as you ran out the door and your headlamp died and now you can’t find the critical rappel on descent in the dark and you’re out of water and you start dry heaving after trying to choke down a granola bar and you reluctantly spoon with your climbing partner as you convert your pack into the world’s smallest sleeping bag and pile the rope on top of you as the world’s worst blanket and shiver pathetically through the night. These are the greatest climbs, and the ones you will remember most vividly. And even though you were miserable at the time, you’ll forget the suffering. Instead you’ll remember how much you loved being one with the mountain that night—with no worries about your 9 to 5 job or the laundry or the traffic—when your only focus was making it through the night. You felt the wind on your face.

You eagerly awaited the sunrise. And that sunrise was the most beautiful thing you ever saw—so beautiful it made it all worthwhile. Well, that doesn’t sound so bad either. As long as you get out there and climb, you win!

Jeremy Lubkin on the NE Ridge of Mt. Triumph in the North Cascades, Washington. Photo by Katie Mills

ARCHIVE EXPLORATION

Harold Bonebrake

by Maggie Tomberlin As a new archive volunteer, I was excited to explore the Mazama’s historical collection.

My first project, accessioning a collection of photographs by the late Harold Bonebrake, did not disappoint. Bonebrake was an avid photographer and an active Mazama in the late 1940s through 1960s. He volunteered his time on several committees, including the photography and research committees, and often showed his work in the Mazama Annual Photographic Exhibition. Highlights from the collection include photographs from past Mazama Annuals and outings, as well as photos of Mt. St. Helens before the eruption. In addition, the collection contains several excellent photographs of local glaciers, providing a valuable record of climate change in the Pacific Northwest.

Two hikers and Mt. Adam’s southeast face.

Photo: Harold Bonebrake.

Portland Premier, September 4 Cinema 21–616 NW 21st Ave.

In October 2008, Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk arrived in India to tackle Meru. What was meant to be a seven-day trip with the equivalent amount of food became a 20-day odyssey in sub-zero temperatures, thanks to the setback of a massive storm that showered the mountain with at least 10 feet of snow. Like everyone before them, their journey was not a successful one. But they had reached further than anyone else, beaten back just 100 meters below the elusive summit.

Heartbroken and defeated, Anker, Chin, and Ozturk returned to their everyday lives, swearing never to attempt the journey again. But they faced sudden physical and emotional challenges back home, too, challenges only exacerbated by the siren song of Meru, one that Anker perhaps heard the loudest. By September 2011, Anker had convinced his two lifelong friends to undertake the Shark’s Fin once more, under even more extraordinary circumstances than the first time around.

MERU is the story of that journey—one of friendship, sacrifice, hope, and obsession.

AUGUST 2015

17

TRANSITION PLANNING

Making the Transition from to

by John Frieh

T

hese days, almost all of us first learn to rock climb in a gym. In my opinion, it is the best place for the curious to be introduced to this activity so many of us have come to know and love. In recent years, if I have been asked to take someone climbing, I have always started them at a rock gym; with its convenience and safety it just makes the most sense. That said, I think all of us would agree, climbing outside is much more enjoyable and we should all aspire to venture outside.

As with any new sport, some apprehension, possibly fear, should be expected. Since climbing can have very serious consequences if done incorrectly, it is understandable why so many of us experience the latter at times. Though I can’t guarantee you will be fearless by the end of this article, I am confident employing some of these strategies will

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allow for a more enjoyable first foray outside.

First and foremost, we all can agree rock climbing requires two people. Yes, some aspects of this sport can be done solo, but if you’re reading this article chances are you are not currently considering soloing. First step: find a partner. Ideally, and I would argue this is mandatory, find someone that has some experience climbing outdoors; the more the better. Bribe these candidates with offers of paying for gas, driving your car, bringing coffee and beers, listening to their playlist ... whatever it takes! Make it clear it is your first time outside and you want an enjoyable trip that will allow you to acquire new skills that will ultimately allow you to do this on your own. You need to understand that this will possibly be a boring trip for your newfound partner so bribery and generosity could make all the difference. But also know that they too were once in your situation and will likely be empathetic to your request. If you absolutely cannot find anyone willing to take you outside, consider hiring an AMGA certified guide.

Once you have a partner the next step is to influence where you go. Though it is in your best interests to let your partner decide, making requests for “fun face climbing” and at least a few routes where you can reach the climbing anchors without having to climb the route. Doing this will allow you to both have a great time as well as learn more about how to set up your own climbing anchors on future trips and take some apprehension out of that first top rope. If your potential partner is insisting on an area that only has crack climbing and you’ve done very little in the gym, be aware you might be signing up for belay slave duty and setting yourself up for a bad first experience outside. Ideally you two will decide on an area with some easy routes appropriate for you as well as some more challenging routes for your partner to try.

Once you and your partner have agreed on a location ask your partner what they would like you to bring and, more importantly, what you shouldn’t bring.

Suggest a pre trip packing session at their place or ask them to text you a photo of their pile of gear before they throw it all in

John Frieh approaching the sublime south ridge of Mt Gimli; a seven pitch 10a that many have remarked is as good, or better than, Outer Space in Leavenworth. Photo by Brock Mayo

a bag. Knowing you brought everything you need as well as avoiding the possible embarrassment of bringing something you didn’t need will only help the nerves. I’ll give you one tip now: take your belay card off your harness before you go outside.

Now you should be ready for your first outdoor climbing trip. Choose a route a few grades below what you climb in the gym and do your best to focus on the same skills you have perfected in the gym. Just like the gym see what you can understand about it from the ground: does it have any rests? Where is the crux? Anything you can figure out before you are hanging off your arms will only make the climb easier and therefore more enjoyable. Consider climbing the same route a few times; early in your climbing career the more climbing volume you can get the more quickly you will see improvement in your technique and skills.

Finally make sure and have realistic expectations about both the first climb as well as the trip. Remember you’re there to have fun and experience climbing in a new medium and, just like the rock gym, it takes a few tries, if not a few visits, to start to see real progress. Don’t expect a personal best your first time outside; doing so should guarantee personal satisfaction.

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MAZAMAS

Climb On! Fixed Anchor Policy Is Here

by Adam Baylor, Mazama Stewardship & Advocacy Manager In April 2015, the Access Fund and the American Alpine Club, in collaboration with the National Park Service and Forest Service, released what it describes as a “clear and consistent policy position regarding the placement, maintenance, and management of fixed anchors for technical climbing.”

This news may come as a surprise for some climbers who have never thought twice about the fixed anchors that make their adventures safe. Regardless of what you think of these pieces of climbing protection, it’s safe to say that today’s land managers have a clear policy to enforce fixed anchor placement and maintenance.

The next time you clip into a bolt high above the treeline on your favorite alpine route, try thinking about the fixed anchor policy. Each climbing area is different.

So while you move over stone and enjoy the stainless steel protection provided by some intrepid climber who came before you, here are some key points to think about with regards to all climbing resources in the United States and specifically in wilderness areas.

ACCESS FUND’S FIXED ANCHOR POLICY FOR ALL CLIMBING RESOURCES IN TEN POINTS: 1. Climbing is an appropriate activity and fixed anchors are necessary tools for climbing.

2. Some level of fixed anchor use shall be allowed wherever climbing is allowed, and that the appropriate level of use should be established on an area-by-area basis.

3. Fixed anchor maintenance and replacement shall be allowable for existing fixed anchors.

4. Climbers should bear the responsibility, in accordance with land management regulations, for determining when and where to place and replace fixed anchors, and how to use these tools.

5. Fixed anchors are a significant tool for resource management.

Fixed anchors can be strategically placed to minimize climbing related biophysical impacts that can occur to fragile soils, vegetation, and wildlife. This value is sacrificed if any use of fixed anchors is prohibited.

6. Fixed anchors are a significant tool for managing the climbing experience. Fixed anchors can be

7.

8.

placed in such a way to improve social conditions, enhance safety, reduce the need for land management restrictions, and provide outstanding recreational opportunities.

Public input is critically important for the management of fixed anchors. Climbers need to have a voice in managing key elements of the climbing safety system.

Administrative actions regarding fixed anchors should be well substantiated and noticed to the public. Decisions regarding fixed anchors should be grounded in a firm understanding of resource capacity, associated impacts, and acceptable rates of change to the natural and social environment.

Fixed anchor management alternatives should be evaluated before any decisions are made to restrict the use of fixed anchors.

All administrative changes to the condition of fixed anchors (e.g., removal) should be well-publicized to help mitigate potential negative impacts to climber safety.

SUPPLEMENTAL FIXED ANCHOR POLICY FOR FEDERALLY DESIGNATED WILDERNESS 9. Power drills shall not be used for placement of fixed anchors in wilderness.

10. Occasional fixed anchors are acceptable in wilderness.

Top: An old bolt placed in the early 1990s which is about the time the AAC and Access Fund started discussing fixed anchor policy with land managers. Bottom: Today’s hardware is stainless steel and will last for 50 years if installed properly.

Photos: Adam Baylor.

Mt. Triumph (7,420 ft.), Northeast Ridge

Mazamas Rock!

by Barry Maletzky

I

t is not often that a peak’s name is both noun and verb but that’s not the only paradox of this secretive yet distinctive mountain, for, hidden as it is from most road and trail viewpoints, once up close, you will never forget its reverse L-shaped summit. Indeed, any climber reaching the summits of most North Cascade peaks must look at this isolated and singular tower with uncommon humility; it does appear almost unattainable. For those who dare not venture onto its steep sides, it can be viewed briefly from Highway 20 about one mile west of Marblemount, but look quickly; otherwise, you may believe it was simply an apparition, so steep and distinctive its shape.

Despite its segregation from the more common peaks in our climb schedules, Triumph hides gems worthy of consideration for the mid-5th class climber: a ridge route (mostly) that allows unfettered movement up relatively solid rock, tiptoeing in an alpine setting with wild exposure combined with firm and stable holds; and a view equal to the best the lower 48 has to offer. While Triumph appears to stand alone, it in fact directly faces the Pickets to the east, the rarelyseen and under-appreciated massif of

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Mts. Blum, Bacon, and Hagen to the west, and the northern giants of Shuksan and Baker. Views such as these come but once in a lifetime and provide ample reward for a strenuous approach and some loose heather, grass, and the inevitable question, “Are we on the right route?”

To approach this jewel, take the Thornton Lakes Trail (two miles of level road, then two more miles of steep, sometimes-muddy path—2,500 ft. of gain) to a gorgeous overlook at 5,050 ft. down to the three Thornton Lakes. Scramblers

might prefer here to simply grapple with a rude and rough tread up Trapper’s Peak to the north for even more glorious views.

But to climb Triumph, you must descend 450 ft. (I hate that) to the lakes, then cross a stream connecting the first two lakes, then ascend unpleasant talus, grass, then heather to a notch in the northeast ridge.

This is base camp for most parties. Bivy sites exist at the pass on dirt and on rock a few hundred feet down to the east.

The real climbing begins by finding a way across the receding glacier, now quite

broken up, particularly in the summer season. Next, locate a ramp system low on the ridge proper. The point now is not so much to stay directly on the ridge itself unless you desire to make an heroic diretissima, but instead weave from the ridge-crest to (usually) its west side to find occasional bucket holds, firm rock, and the presence of small tablelands of wet moss and heather. Protection is always available, as knobs and weird protrusions pop up when least expected. There are two steps of 4th- to low 5th-class climbing here until one reaches the first plateau and a breather. Above, 4th-class climbing brings one to the second tableland. From this point, the ridge narrows and exposure

freaks will revel in the solid but airy mid-5th-class climbing where, despite the presence of solid holds, one still feels that sensation of flying above the entire North Cascades. Once the actual ridge becomes a bit much, retreat to its west side is available (at around 7,000 ft.)—and I certainly took advantage of the incut holds present there.

More facile climbing above this point leads to the final rung and, as usual, the most intimidating part of the climb. One must reach around a small knob in the hope (prayer on my part) that an unseen hold exists just to the left. This leads into a notch and a “Thank-God” ledge with easier, if heather-covered, moves to boulders that

mark a relatively spacious top. Take your time here arguing about which summit is which. There can be no argument, however, that this view, which will be enjoyed by so few, could ever be exceeded by so many other points more easily attainable in these parts.

Descent is by rappel, mostly paralleling the route, except for fanatics intent on down-climbing slippery heather, wet grass and rock up to 5.6. Rappel stations are fortunately abundant and solid.

Many parties enjoy a third night camping amongst these giants (we certainly did) as the climb back to the notch above the lakes and the trail out are tedious at best.

To our credit, Mazamas have stood on this summit a number of times and it appears occasionally in our schedule. Even more remote, and sharing the peculiarity of having a name both noun and verb, Mt. Despair (7,292 ft.) is a cousin of Triumph, raising from low footings just to its northwest. Even fewer souls have attained its distant summit, for its approach is even more formidable than that to Triumph.

Perhaps one day we will see this Cascade prize on our schedule as well: Triumph and Despair—opposites in name only.

Either way, do not shrink from signing up if you see Triumph on our climb schedule. The trip is memorable and the views celestial. Sure, like me, you may be disquieted or jittery about the 5th-class rock awaiting you. But without fear, there would be no courage and without foreboding, there would be no heroes.

From left: The catwalk on the NE Ridge. Mt. Triumph. The approach hike. Photos: Glen Widener

Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM)

A Mazama committee providing support services to Mazamas. If you or your group have had a traumatic experience contact the Mazama office (503-227-2345) or Marina Wynton. All debriefs conducted through CISM are confidential.

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Obituary

Gary Beck May 21, 1942–June 15, 2015

by Wendy Carlton & Al Hansen We have lost a climbing partner, a mentor, a friend who made us laugh, and someone who brought out the best in us. Gary Beck moved on to the next big adventure on June 15, 2015.

We attended Gary’s memorial service and were left with a sense of awe of this dear man who we knew as a climbing partner and dear friend, but he was so much more in his life. He was a renowned climber; a wonderful, caring teacher; a dedicated husband, father and grandfather; a musician; an expert in his chosen profession; a life-long learner; and an adventurer in the best sense of the word!

Gary joined the Mazamas in 1969. He was a climb leader for 35 years— from 1976 to 2011! He taught countless basic school groups. He led many climbs, and outings around the world. He received the Guardian Peaks award in 1970, Oregon Cascades Award in 1972, and the 16 Peaks award in 1974. He served two terms on the Mazama Executive Council and was President in 2005.

After summiting virtually every peak worth climbing in the Northwest, Gary turned his attention to other adventures. But he couldn’t get climbing out of his blood, so he “summited” two of the hardest bicycle rides in the world, L’ Alpe d’Huez and Mont Ventoux in France. He rode seven Cycle Oregons and completed week long rides in Idaho, Colorado and Wyoming. In addition, he rode the entire White Rim road in Canyonlands National Park on a mountain bike! After climbing “up” for most of his life he discovered climbing “lower” was fun too. He took up canyoneering and made numerous trips to Southern Utah to explore slot canyons. His favorite included a rappel through the famous Golden Cathedral in Neon Canyon. Gary also rafted the Grand Canyon and enjoyed skiing, snowshoeing, hiking, and backpacking.

When Gary wasn’t off on an adventure, he enjoyed keeping his yard in picture perfect form, singing with Festival Chorale Oregon, working with the Institute of Continued Learning at Willamette University, attending music concerts, and spending time with his family and friends.

And he did it all with humor, a bit of irreverence and a complete lack of pretense.

Gary leaves behind a legacy of climb leaders, and many, many more who love to climb and travel because they learned from the best.

Gary’s zeal for life inspires us to fully live our lives fully­—to do all those things on our bucket list! The following quote describes Gary’s life perfectly:

Rappeling from the Golden Cathedral in Southern Utah. Gary said this was one of his favorite moments.

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, scotch in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming “WOO HOO what a ride!”

AUGUST 2015

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MAZAMA FAMILIES

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MAZAMAS

Summer!

So much to do with our families ...

Summer is in full swing and Mazama Families are enjoying the sunshine and all that our amazing landscapes in the Northwest have to offer. The graduates of Families Mountaineering 101 are busy planning and participating in numerous summer hikes, climbs, and outings, and new and veteran members of the Families Group are joining in on the action.

On June 20, more than 30 kids and parents came out to climb Rooster Rock with full enthusiasm in tow. Several families have attended previous Rooster climbs, and some were experiencing Rooster for the first time. There was at least one audible cock-a-doodle do on the summit! The kids showed us that they were not at all daunted by the exposure, and as soon as they were down a few requested to go right back up! Thanks to Mark Seker, we learned about a great swimming spot at the opposite end of the park and the festivities continued with a picnic and cooling off in the Columbia River. Many thanks to volunteers Henry Kofron, Matt Fogarty, Julie Doumbia, and Bob Murphy for making this happen and standing patiently on belay ledges with gummy bears! This climb is so in demand that

there was another Rooster climb in July, led by Craig Martin.

It wouldn’t be summer without Charles Blanke’s urban tram hike, which took place on July 11. What a great opportunity to enjoy an in-town hike while knowing you have a ride down from the top!

The Tuesday afternoon outdoor rock climbs are in full swing. Destinations are intended to offer a variety of outdoor rock climbing experiences and include Broughton, Ozone and French’s Dome.

Families Rock skills got underway in July and will run every month through the year. Instructors will teach or review any basic rock skill, including how to put on your harness, how to belay, rappel, and more! Drop in for all or part of the session.

Lastly, don’t forget about Families Mountaineering 101. The class begins in August with Justin Rotherham and Craig Martin ready to introduce a new group of families to the love of mountaineering. The class is comprehensive, teaching skills from rock to snow to backpacking to intro to first aid. Please see the website for more details.

To learn more and register for these activities and many other hikes, backpacks and rock climbs, please visit our web page at mazamafamilies.org. To receive announcements of new Mazama Families events and reminders of upcoming activities, drop us a line at families@ mazamas.org.

Climb on, and have a great summer!

Clockwise from top left: Koh Seker on rappel (his second ever!). Photo: Mark Seker. Henry Kofron heading up to safety-check rappelers. Photo: Bob Murphy. Koh Seker and Sarah Mecheski. Photo: Mark Seker. Are the hot dogs ready yet? Photo: Mark Seeker. Jake Norton set to rappel. Photo: Mark Seker. Mark, Koh and Abe Seker at the Gummy Bear Station Photo: Bob Murphy.

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20S & 30S

Upcoming Trips & Activities

Join the fun—get involved today!

The 20s & 30s are rocking the summer with hikes and backpacks near and far. A special highlight from the last month was a backpacking trip to Table Lake over the 4th of July weekend led by Matt Reeder. Table Lake, nestled deep in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness, proved a worthy destination for a threeday trek with incredible views, lovely displays of wildflowers, and spring-fed lakes irresistible yo swimming. The full, magnificent loop totaled 27 miles. Matt recounted that “a few of us made the arduous trip up onto the Table, a mesa in the center of the Mount Jefferson Wilderness.

Up there we had incredible views of Mount Jefferson over a rarely-visited plateau that felt like tundra.” After storm clouds forced them back down to Table Lake, they were treated to a beautiful sunset. The return trip on Sunday included a jaunt on the Pacific Crest Trail, a return to Carl Lake and the trailhead, and a well-deserved stop at the Marion Forks Restaurant for burgers and refreshments.

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Now that you are excited to join us for a trip, check out our page on the Mazama website and our Meetup group to see what is coming up! The bigger trips in the next couple months include: FRIDAY, AUG. 21–SUNDAY, AUG. 23—BACKPACKING TRIP: BULL OF THE WOODS WILDERNESS With summer waning, it’s time for backpacking in one of the most rugged places in the Oregon Cascades!

Join leaders Matt Reeder and Karl Langenwalter for a trip to one of their favorite places, the Bull of the Woods Wilderness. We’ll start out following the Elk Lake Creek Trail. We’ll have a leisurely day hiking up gorgeous Elk Lake Creek, setting up camp at Battle Creek Camp. On Day 2 we’ll climb up to the Bull of the Woods lookout tower and then down to Big Slide Lake, where we’ll camp on Saturday night.

On Sunday, we’ll climb back up to the ridgetop, dropping packs to visit Big Slide Mountain and perhaps Lake Lenore. From there, we’ll drop down to Welcome Lakes and down to Elk Lake Creek to finish our trip. Plan on 5–7 miles each day, plus side trips. This is a beautiful area but very rugged—plan on unbridged stream crossings, downed trees, faint trails and steep uphills and downhills. Also: plan on leaving Friday during the day - if you work a normal

schedule, take a day off or don’t sign up! Hike: 21 miles, 4,000 feet elevation gain. Drive: 140 miles round-trip. Meetup details to be shared only with participants. Wilderness area.

Members: $10/Nonmembers: $20. Leaders: Matt Reeder (mareede@gmail.com) and Karl Langenwalter (klangen@gmail.com). Trip limited to 8; Email leaders to sign up!

FRIDAY, SEP. 4–MONDAY, SEP. 7—LABOR DAY CAMPING TRIP: CLACKAMAS RIVER How well do you know your own backyard?

Our annual tradition is to explore a destination far away on Labor Day Weekend, but this year we are staying close to home. We have reserved a group campsite far up the beautiful canyon of the Clackamas River, and we will make this our base camp for exploring the best of what the area has to offer. Expect everything from leisurely strolls nearby to long treks in the Bull of the Woods and Mount Jefferson Wilderness Areas. We’ll offer a variety of activities every day, and back at camp, expect swimming, barbecues, and camaraderie. Don’t miss out on the best way to end the summer!

Members: $20/Nonmembers: $30. Leader:Matt Reeder (mareede@gmail.com).

Meet Your Hike Leaders 20s & 30s at a viewpoint near Bear Butte in the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness. Photo: Matt Reeder.

WE ARE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR NEW VOLUNTEER HIKE LEADERS AND COMMITTEE MEMBERS! Join us for committee meetings on July 27 and Aug. 31 at 6:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. We often partake in festive beverages at a local establishment postmeeting.

Pub nights are monthly and rotate around Portland to various locations. This month’s pub night will be held at Gigantic Brewing at 7 p.m. on Aug. 17.

Looking forward to seeing you at any and all adventures with us!

Elly Pederson

We are proud of our fantastic hike leaders! This month, we’d like to introduce you to Elly Pederson. She hails from Lake Forest Park, WA and joined the Mazamas a few months before she moved to Portland just under two years ago.

What’s your favorite trip that you’ve led with 20s & 30s?

Elly: Cross country skiing in the rain during this past year’s Winter Weekend. Everyone had a great time despite inclement weather. Eating in a warm hut for lunch at Teacup helped too.

What’s on your bucket list?

Elly: Mt Hood continues to be elusive for me, and it keeps mocking me as I drive home from work.

What’s your favorite leader treat?

Elly: Anything that incorporates chocolate in a sweet way including brownies (peanut butter or cheese cake are even better), good chocolate chip cookies, cake...

If you were a superhero, what would be your special power?

Elly: To be able to instantly travel to anywhere in the blink of an eye, but don’t worry, I’d still climb mountains the old fashion way (otherwise what is the point?).

Above: Elly Pederson on Tomyhoi in the North Cascades. Photo: Drew Gaylord.

503.684.9698

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Rock Climbing Beyond the U.S.

(and Canada, and Europe)

Ten Random Areas

by Radek Chalupa We finally stumble back into our camp just as it gets dark, toss down the gear, take off our harnesses and slump down next to the tent. A day and a half of climbin, including a bivy on the thousand meter southeast face of Jebel Misht, and a long and thirsty hike down the opposite side of the mountain are behind us. A search for water in some village (we should learn some Arabic), a bit of hitchhiking, and we’re finally back in camp.

We hear the muezzin’s evening call to prayer from a distant village in the valley. We break down camp, toss things in the car, and once again bang up its undercarriage trying to get across a 300-meter-wide dry river bed full of microwavesized rocks. We reach a small town just shy of midnight and gorge ourselves on roasted lamb in the only open restaurant. Tired, dirty, and— with no plans or reservations— essentially homeless. But we’re in the middle of Oman with a big climb in the bag and we couldn’t be happier.

The choice of how to burn precious vacation time is both exciting and frustrating as we’re always reminded of how little of it we have and how big the world is. It comes down to two questions. First, is there multi-pitch climbing? Second, how interesting is the place itself? Below is a list of areas we’ve tried climbing in and some bits of logistics for each. The hope is that it provides a starting point for further

Left: Shirley Chalupa on the spectacular pitch 2 of the Sacred Site route on The Moai in Tasman National Park. Photo: Radek Chalupa.

research for those who are interested and perhaps motivates those climbers who generally dislike traveling to try something new.

OMAN: Desert climbing on beautiful, golden-colored limestone. Our trip was only a week long and consequently we climbed only one route, The French Pillar on Jebel Misht, the El Cap of the Arabian Peninsula. Route development here has been going on for a couple of decades, driven mostly by European climbers, though more recently Americans have also shown up. There is an English language guidebook for the country (by R. A. McDonald), but its scope is limited to mostly small climbs. However, excellent information for The French Pillar is available online: www.foordkelcey.net/uae/ misht_fp_topo.pdf. Also, internet searches for “Al Hamra” towers and “Wadi Tiwi” should yield some good information. Getting to Oman is reasonably cheap with a few European airlines offering non-stop flights to Muscat. Visa-on-arrival was available in 2014. Once in Oman, you’ll need a rental car and I’d recommend an SUV (gas is cheap) as even some sightseeing will require high-clearance.

Winter is the time to go (we went in February).

WADI RUM, JORDAN: Wadi Rum is located in southern Jordan near the Saudi border. It’s a maze-like system of canyons defined by huge sandstone formations. Rock quality is generally good—somewhere between Sedona and Red Rocks—and the route lengths range from single to 20+ pitches, with a wide spectrum of difficulty. There’s a guidebook by Tony Howard that can be purchased online. Reasonably priced flights (most via Europe) will get you to Amman (in 2012, visa on arrival) where you can take a pre-arranged taxi all the way to the village at the mouth of Wadi Rum. Renting a car seemed pointless.

Once there you can camp by the Rest House in your own tent (or a crappy rented one), buy your meals from

them, and use their bathroom and shower facilities (those last two can be memorable adventures in their own right). Hiring a Bedouin guide is almost essential (eg. www.rumguides. com). This person is not a climbing guide but rather an “enabler”—he will drive you out to climbs (though a handful are accessible by walking from the Rest House), supply you with drinking water and other basic needs, arrange cab rides to Petra, and generally keep an eye on you ... and, if you’re really lucky, invite you for some very sweet tea or even a family dinner in one of the traditional desert encampments. We visited in midFebruary and had mixed weather. Next time we’d go a bit later in the spring or earlier in the fall. Lastly, save a day for checking out the Dead Sea and vicinity.

MADAGASCAR: The only place with long, multipitch routes that we know of is the Tsaranoro Massif located about 90 minutes southwest of the city of Fianarantsoa. This was also the setting for a climbing movie about the establishment of a big new route (Bravo Les Filles) by Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden and team. On the upside, the area is spectacular: colorful, huge, clean granite walls with plenty of lemurs to be seen and heard on the approaches and even on climbs (6b seems to be their free solo limit). The rock is almost totally devoid of cracks and so most of the lines we did were fully bolted. The downside is that the majority of routes were established by climbers much stronger than us. The longest and most spectacular looking lines start at about 7a+ (French or ~5.12-) and the bolt spacing tends to be on the exciting side—not sport climbing. Still, there’s enough climbing to be had at the 5.10-5.11 range to easily fill up a two week trip. Search online for Camp Catta (including Facebook)—their website has most of the topos published. You can buy meals and beer (and peanuts, a staple) from the Camp Catta kitchen and the

continued on next page AUGUST 2015

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Rock Climbing Beyond the US, continued from previous page dinners were outstanding—some of the best French food we’ve had. Getting there can be relatively expensive and painful. Other than some African airlines, Air France operates (2011) a twice weekly flight (so don’t lose your luggage!) from Paris to Antananarivo.

After this 11 hour leg, you will have a 12 hour car ride in store which can be prearranged through Camp Catta.

NAMIBIA: The most established and best known climbing area in the country is centered on a large granite formation called the Spitzkoppe and the nearby domes called Pontoks. There’s a guidebook available (by Eckhardt Haber) and some shops based out of South Africa will ship it to the U.S. Things look great on paper: huge granite formations, beautiful and well established camping, and even a cafeteria nearby run by a friendly South African couple (2013).

However, we found the climbing to be generally scary: flaky, exfoliating rock and run-outs on moderate pitches. Fortunately, the main goal of our trip lay several hours away. We came to Namibia with the goal of repeating the 2009 route called The Southern Crossing, established by Majka Burhardt and team on a remote wall called Orabeskopf in the Brandberg Massif.

Online search will show Majka’s beta on the route, including gear recommendations.

While the logistics for the Spitzkoppe climbing are pretty straightforward ( fly to Windhoek, rent a car and drive yourself), things get a bit more complex for Brandberg.

The recommended starting point is to contact Basil Caditz who runs the Brandberg Rest Camp in the old mining settlement of Uis. He is the person who helped us with arranging permits (Brandberg is a protected area) and a porter (no reliable water in the backcountry) as well as transportation to and from the trailhead which is about an hour outside of Uis and requires a highclearance car to access. The extent of modern day human activity in that valley seems to be limited to three teams of climbers establishing a total of four routes (last one called Hungarob Combination in 2011) with no repeats that we were aware of.

The area really feels very remote and way off the beaten track. An incredibly memorable experience.

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THAILAND: Most climbers have heard of the beachside climbing in Railay and Tonsai (multiple guidebooks available, best one is by Somporn Suebhait); and while those are fun and unique (tower climbing right out of a long-tail boat), they are also overrun with westerners making for a pretty diluted cultural experience. A bit of internet research reveals a handful of relatively obscure crags scattered throughout the country. One that captured our interest was called Khao Chin Lae 2 Peak outside the town of Lopburi. The limestone tower rises suddenly out of the rolling sunflower fields of central Thailand and is home to a couple of summit routes (~6 pitches long) as well as many single pitch climbs at its base. The nearby Lopburi is a logical base and off the beaten tourist track. Noom’s Guesthouse is the place to stay as Noom himself is a climber, rents scooters (best way to reach the crag), and makes an excellent cup of coffee. Lastly, don’t forget to pick up a bottle of Hong Thong before heading off to dinner in one of the local establishments. A guide can be found online (namphapayai-camp. com/pdf/topo-lopburi.pdf).

MALAYSIA: The country has a good selection of small crags scattered throughout both Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo regions.

The latter is also home to some spectacular looking towers nestled in its jungles ( full on expedition value) and the famous Mt. Kinabalu (which has both a complicated permitting system and bad weather). Off the coast of peninsular Malaysia there is also Pulau Tioman, home to a pair of large granite spires called The Dragon Horns.

The South Horn is home to more than a half dozen routes, with most being difficult free climbs (13-ish). Exceptions are the original line called Waking Dream (aid, A2+; hardware at belays replaced with Ti glue-ins in 2013 by climbers from Singapore) and Damai Sentosa which apparently clocks in at 6c+. Our attempt on Waking Dream in June of 2014 ended in failure. Despite trying it in Malaysia’s dry season, we encountered severe thunderstorms on an almost daily basis. As far as logistics, I’d recommend flying to Kuala Lumpur (vs. Singapore; less hassle without the extra border crossing)

and renting a car. Pulau Tioman is accessed via a ferry that departs from the town of Mersing. Once on the island, a quick hop in a small boat is required to reach the village of Mukut on the southern tip.

Contact Mr. Khairudin Haja (Tam) who is an accomplished climber and who runs the Simukut Hill View Resort ( facebook.com/ simukuthillview) at the base of the Horns.

TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA: Though the more accessible climbing in Tasmania is typically not very long, it is certainly different (sea stacks) and can be exciting (venomous snakes). A nicely written guidebook on the select climbs on the island

by Gerry Narkowicz is a great resource and worth the shipping cost from Australia.

There is also a less-glossy but free online guidebook, (thesarvo.com/confluence/ display/thesarvo/Climbing). Although we spent our two weeks there with a constant eye on the weather forecasts for the western part of the island, home to longer, alpine-ish climbs like the Frenchman Cap, we never got a good enough weather window to attempt it. We did get a sampling of the much drier eastern Tasmania’s routes: from the sea stacks of the Tasman National Park (which include swims and Tyrolean traverses), to the multi-pitch splitter crack climbs of Ben Lomond and on to the scenic granite domes of Freycinet Peninsula. Tasmania is easy to get to and to explore (rental car is essential), however, it is relatively expensive (2015).

Extended camping in the wet environment could be painful and so renting a place with a kitchenette might ultimately be a good way to trim costs.

VALLE COCHAMO, CHILE: Advertised as the home of big-wall free climbing, this is the easy Patagonia or perhaps the Chilean Yosemite. We spent two weeks there in the first half of February and had climbable weather about 50 percent of the time. The rock is high quality granite and the routes tend to be long (10 pitches and up) with difficulty starting at about 5.10 but with more options in the 5.11 range.

With sufficient lead time, airfares to Puerto Montt can be reasonable. Flying to Santiago and busing (reliable and comfortable) down could be a money saver as well. The rest of the logistics can be taken care of in advance by contacting the folks who run the climbers’ hut in Cochamo Valley (cochamo. com). Here you can arrange your taxi ride from town to the trailhead, as well as pack horses to carry your supplies on the 13-km hike into the Valley. Although the climbers’ hut (Refugio Cochamo) sells breakfasts and dinners, they often run short. In other words, bring most of your own food (and sneak in all of your own alcohol, the hut is dry). The

A Tyrolean traverse on the descent from Crescent Moon Buttress in Nuevo Leon, Mexico. Photo: Radek Chalupa. Right: Making our way among the Bronze Age beehive tombs somewhere on the Salma Plateau of the Eastern Hajar range, Oman.

Photos: Radek Chalupa.

typical approach is to establish a basecamp on the valley floor (solar showers included) and then do overnight or multi-day trips up to adjacent valleys for the climbing.

Climbing activity in Cochamo started in the early to mid-2000s and the area is still experiencing much new route development.

Consequently, the most complete route beta can be found in binders inside the climbers’ hut—bring a pen, plenty of paper, and some artistic skills for copying the maps and topos by hand (a good rainy day activity).

FREY, ARGENTINA: Frey is a logical complement to a Cochamo visit: short approaches (once you’re camped out by Refugio Frey), more compact routes, drier but colder weather, and plenty of wine (and food for purchase) at the hut. The term “alpine cragging” comes to mind. Climbing here is on small to midsized granite spires (one to eight pitches) that dot nearby ridges. Rock looks loose and dirty from afar but is in fact clean, solid and well featured. Free camping is available near the hut but you pay for the use of a shared

kitchen space (gas stove). Bring a sturdy tent as conditions can be very windy. A nice guidebook by Rolando Garibotti can be purchased at Club Andino in Bariloche. Lastly, transiting between Cochamo (Puerto Varas) and

Frey (Bariloche) is probably best done via a public bus rather than a rental car. Dedicate a day to do this and probably more if you’re in a rental car.

MEXICO (BEYOND EL POTRERO CHICO) Despite a several year lull (2010–13ish), hundreds of mostly foreign climbers once again visit the beautiful El Potrero Chico every year. Yet very few seem to venture beyond. High density of well-bolted, long routes, good weather, nice limestone, trivial connections to US cities are all contributing factors. As fun as racking up the pitch count in EPC is, the adventure aspect is a bit lacking. Partially motivated by the publication of a new guidebook (rockclimbing-mexico.com), we did a twoweek long road trip through the country starting and ending in Mexico City (and yes, we did venture up north to EPC, as well). Two areas with moderate multi-pitch routes were Parque El Chico in the state of Hidalgo (conglomerate rock towers) and a large monolith called Pena de Bernal in Queretaro. While the climbing was good (all

bolted), the setting of the post-card perfect Mexico really completed the experience.

Logistics are trivial (cheap flights) though things seemed simpler in a rental car with Mexican plates as opposed to driving in from the US.

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CLASSIC MAZAMAS

Hikes, Walks, and Lunch at the Lodge For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS ▶▶ Lanning Russell, 503-7751164, lanning16@gmail.com (co-chair) ▶▶ Rose Marie Gilbert, 503-762-2357, gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net (co-chair) ▶▶ Kate Evans, 503-635-6540, kateevans97@gmail.com (EC Liaison) ▶▶ Main email: classics@ mazamas.org.

If you are interested in leading an event in September, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert or Lanning Russell by Aug. 12.

AUG. 10-14 NORTH COAST CLASSIC HIKER GETAWAY Five days of relaxed-pace hiking in the North coast area, including planned hikes of Neahkanie Mountain, Tillamook Head, Fort to Sea, Astoria River Walk, and Saddle Mountain. There will be no organized, in town meeting, but we will meet at the trailhead for each hike. Hikes listed in the Trail Trips section on page 38. For those who want to stay in the area, Fort Stevens State Park will be the leader’s base (early reservations are recommended). For more information contact Ray Sheldon at rbshldn@pacifier. com.

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MONDAY, AUG. 17 LAURELHURST NEIGHBORHOOD WALK Explore the Heritage trees and history of Laurelhurst Park and the Laurelhurst neighborhood. We will talk about how the park and neighborhood were developed and take a walking tour of Heritage and other notable trees in the area. It has been found that a concentration of large trees such as in this neighborhood cools the area significantly in hot weather in addition to adding to house values. We will plan to walk 1-2 miles, ending at the Laurelhurst Café on 47th and Burnside for lunch.

We will meet at 9 a.m. at the Ankeny entrance to the park, on the terrace on the south side of the Ankeny building one block south of Burnside at SE Ankeny and Laurelhurst Place.

Leader: Nancy Chapman, 503-234-0162.

TUESDAY, AUG. 25 TICKLE CREEK PARK AND TRAIL WALK Meet at 10 a.m. at the west trailhead in Tickle Creek Park in Sandy. Bring water and food. 3.6 miles, round trip, at a leisurely pace. A good choice of restaurants is available in Sandy, as well as the excellent Sandy Historical Society. The hike is approximately 1.8 miles of wooded, scenic trail in the heart of Sandy. Dogs are welcome; city law requires them to be on a leash.

Directions: Meet at the Tickle Creek Park west trailhead at 362nd Drive and Chinook Street. From East Powell Blvd and SE Burnside in Gresham, go east on Powell which will go slightly right, and then follow a broad curve to the left to onto Highway 26. Go 8.6 miles to 362nd Drive. Turn right (at the sign to Fred Meyer). Go .5 mile.

Chinook Street is on the right.

The trailhead is on the left.

Leader: Lanning Russell, lanning616@gmail.com, 503528-6080 FRIDAY, SEP. 11 LUNCH AT THE LODGE, 12:30 P.M. Join the Classics for lunch at Mazama Lodge at 12:30 p.m. You can drive or travel in a van or bus provided by the Mazamas. The lunch is free; transportation is $10 and will leave from the MMC at 10 a.m. If you are interested in transportation you MUST contact Dyanne Foster at dyfozter@gmail.com or 503267-8937 by Friday, Sep. 4, and RSVP (there are limited spots available; if you don’t RSVP you may have to provide your own transportation).

Those providing their own transportation must RSVP by Tuesday, Sep. 8.

THURSDAY, SEP. 17 NORTHWEST ALPACAS/OAKWOOD GARDENS TOUR Visit alpacas on a severalacre formal garden at the farm where Dick and Jane Miller’s two alpaca “boys,” Fito and

Toyo, were born. Meet at 10 a.m. in the farm parking lot.

We’ll spend a couple of hours strolling in a loop through the gardens and by the pastures.

Bring a sack lunch. If available, the farm owner or manager will talk about alpacas. Mike Safley, the owner, is the most highly-regarded and experienced judge for alpaca shows worldwide. The farm manager, Steve Johnson, and his daughter, Jamie, have their own herd of more than 100 alpacas.

Directions: From Highway 217 take Scholls Ferry Road westerly for 7 miles to a roundabout at the junction with SW River Road. Exit onto River Road (toward Hillsboro) and go 1.5 miles to Northwest Alpacas on the left. The address is 11785 SW River Road.

Leader: Dick Miller, 503-5903598.

OCT. 2017 HIKING THE DRAGON KINGDOM—WEST Fifteen days of day hikes in Bhutan. For more information contact David Christopher at David.R.Christopher@gmail. com.

Whether you are a life-long Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

Are you ready to join? Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the oldest mountaineering organizations in the country here: mazamas.org/join

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes & outings.

This MAGAZINE, filled with activities, events, and articles, delivered to your door monthly.

DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms.

Icebreaker, Mountain Hardwear, The Mountain Shop, Mountaineers Books, Next Adventure, Oregon Mountain Community, Portland Rock Gym, Prana Portland, Redpoint Climber’s Supply, Rock & Ice Magazine, Sharp End Books, Trail Butter, US Outdoor Store

Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood along with great member rates.

INFORMATION Access to special member pages on the Mazama website.

Receive free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters.

Gain full access to the world-class 5,000-volume mountaineering LIBRARY.

AND MORE!

The list of Executive Council and Nominating Committee candidates for our upcoming 2015 election, listed alphabetically, is as follows: Executive Council Jon Jurevic Chris Kruell Barbara Weiss Darrell Weston

Nominating Committee Matt Carter Hannah Seebach Joan Zuber

You may view candidate biographies for Executive Council online; they will also be mailed out with your ballots, which will be arriving around Sept. 10, 2015.

AUGUST 2015

35

True Confessions of a Novice Climber

by Jamie Anderson, Mazama Membership Services Manager

Every month, a copy of Rock and Ice arrives at the MMC. I flip through the glossy pages, look at photographs, and think: Nope. That’s not me. I’m not a real climber.

I “sort of ” climb. The easy stuff. The local beginner’s routes. Nothing big.

I will let you in on a little secret, however. Deep down, I am proud of those routes. An even deeper secret: each of these routes, all alpine rock, scared me. I have been listening to our executive director talk about “shared growth

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MAZAMAS

experiences in the mountains” for over two years now. For me it is alpine rock where the boot-rubber hits the rock and this concept makes sense—it is where I have felt my comfort zone expand the most.

This could be called the True Confessions of a Novice Climber, or, What Has Made My Knees Wobble: ▶▶ Scree. I used to think that scree fields were benign, stable rocks that one hops across.

Not anymore. Now I have a four-fold classification: 1st class: deep and sandy (easy, if exhausting); 2nd class: deep, largish stone (easy to move through but can cause some danger to climbers below or from climbers above); 3rd class: small pebbles on a steep, hard

substrate (Wiley E. Coyote on ball-bearings; can I keep control?); 4th class: large, moving rocks on a steep, hard substrate (everything moves, and fast. You can’t trust anything above or below you; getting out of control or being smacked by a boulder are equally unpleasant possibilities.) ▶▶ Fourth-class scrambles. I loved the idea of scrambling until I discovered scrambling with exposure. Something about heights makes me want that rope bad. ▶▶ Rappels. These were fun, AFTER I got started. The first step off of an edge wondering if I put my system together correctly and if that creaking tat is going to hold? Not so fun. My first climbs I ran through BARK at least three times before trusting it, and then I still held my breath on that first long step.

▶▶ Pack weight; or, can I possibly keep up? This is more trepidation than fear.

A full day’s gear for all weather, water, food, group gear, up a steep approach has led to the concern of can I cut the cardio mustard? ▶▶ Down climbing. Going down is just like going up in reverse, right? I remember the first time I looked down a stiff

scramble and thought: “I have to go back down that?!?”

None of these actually address the actual fifth-class climb, supposedly the most difficult part, but this is where the real “growth experience in the mountains” has come for me. I’ve learned to trust myself and recognize risk. I’ve also discovered many “ah ha!” moments when I realized I used those fancy gym laybacks and mantles on a block of basalt looking down hundreds of feet to snow slopes and scree fields and miles of forest. My comfort zone grows a bit with every peak, and that’s climbing.

Left: Jamie Anderson soaking in the view from The Tooth (Washington). Above: Successful summitters! From left: Stephen Perkins, Jamie Anderson, and Stephen Hirai.

Photos: Stephen Hirai.

AUGUST 2015

37

TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE

Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open

to members and non-members alike.

Contact Trail Trips Committee co-chair Terry Lawson at 503819-9250 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, log on to https://mazamas2.org.

CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas.org/ activities-events/hike-schedule/ for updates!

HK A2 Aug 01 (Sat) Salmon River Trail (Upper). Terry Lawson, lawson.terry@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. This outand-back hike starts ascending overlooking the river, travels through an old growth forest, and climbs to an overlook of the canyon carved out by the river. Email leader to reserve a spot, held until 7:50 a.m.

7.2 miles 950 ft. Dr. 82 TH Gateway 8 a.m. MU

HK B2 Aug 05 (Wed) Timberline LodgeParadise Park-East Zig Zag Mtn Hike.

William O’Brien, 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo. com. Wilderness— Limit 12. Very scenic hike from Timberline Lodge across Zig Zag Canyon to the Paradise Park loop where wildflowers will be in full bloom, then take trail #775, passing Burnt Lake from above, to East Zig Zag Mt. and a great view of the west side of Mt. Hood.

This hike involves a car shuttle. 14.4 miles 2,500 ft. Dr. 120 miles TH MMC 7:30 a.m. MU

HK B2 Aug 01 (Sat) Tom/ Dick Mountain. David Nelson, dkbmnelson@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Hike up to Mirror Lake and then up to the ridge for a great views of Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens and other peaks. Have lunch, return to Mirror Lake and hike around the lake before heading back to the trailhead and cars.

Contact leader at dkbmnelson@ gmail.com to register your spot on first come first serve, up to wilderness limit. 7.2 miles 1,715 ft.

Dr. 94 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 02 (Sun) Hamilton Mountain Loop. Terry Lawson, lawson.terry@gmail.com. We hike up past scenic Rodney Falls to Hamilton Mt. with views of the gorge, Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, and Table Mt. Discover Pass required.

7.6 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 88 State Park Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU HK C2 Aug 02 (Sun) Devil’s Peak Lookout (Cool Creek). David Nelson, dkbmnelson@gmail.colm.

Wilderness—Limit 12. This hike offers a great workout. Hike up the Cool Creek trail to the old fire lookout. Have lunch, explore the lookout and enjoy the views before hiking back down. Great views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams and Mt. Jefferson, if weather permits. Contact leader at dkbmnelson@gmail.com to register your spot. 8.2 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 84 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

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HK B2 Aug 06 (Thu) Black Crater. Jess Beauchemin, 503-4460803 or beauchemin. jess@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Lavapalooza #1, hike to one of the best viewpoints in Central Oregon. We’ll start east of McKenzie Pass and climb through dry forest to the top of a cinder cone with front-row views of North Sister. Call or email leader for more information—registration required.

7.8 miles 2,500 ft. Dr. 9.4 TH Scott Lake Campground 9 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 07 (Fri) Belknap and Little Belknap Crater. Jess Beauchemin, 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Lavapalooza #2, hike the PCT across jagged cinder to Little Belknap Crater.

Explore the lava caves near its summit, then scramble cross country to Belknap Crater, just 500 ft. higher. Call or email leader for

20S & 30S MAZAMAS ARE ALSO HIKING Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/ activities-events/20sand30s

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION Wilderness—Limit 12 inidicates that the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area and the number of participants is limited to 12, including the leader.

Larry, Naomi Segal Deitz, Kimiko Gibson, and Julie Neuman at Devils Rest. Photo: Regis Krug. more information—registration required. 8.5 miles 1,650 ft. Dr. 6 TH Scott Lake Campground 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 Aug 08 (Sat) Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge. Jim Selby, 828-508-5094. We’ll hike much of the Carty Unit (songbirds galore) and the Kiwa Trail in the River S Unit (huge variety of birds). The Chinook Cathapoltle plankhouse should be open as well. Nature and culture on this meandering hike. 5 miles 200 ft.

Dr. 54 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Aug 08 (Sat) Scott Mountain and Hand Lake Loop.

Jess Beauchemin, 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Lavapalooza #3, forest, lava, lakes, meadows and highpoints; you’ll see it all on this hike. From Scott Lake, we’ll hike to the top of Scott Mountain, then loop

back past Hand Lake. We’ll contour around the lake by taking an old section of Wagon Road cut through the lava. Call or email leader for more information—registration required. 10 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 0 TH Scott Lake Campground 9 a.m.

HK C2 Aug 08 (Sat) Paradise Park ( from Hwy 26). Dan Smith, 503408-8923. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Strong hike up to Timberline Trail!

Then turn north and hike to Split Rock and views of Yocum Ridge and maybe mountains to the north. This will help you in shape for RTM. Extra water and food. Mt. Hood is great from the side. Call for a spot but will open up at 6:50 a.m. 12.7 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway 7 a.m.

HK A2 Aug 09 (Sun) Heritage Trees # 6, Northwest Portland.

Tom Guyot, 503-761-9519. Hike

STREET RAMBLES

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles

Mt. Tabor Ramble Eastside

JULY DATES ▶▶ Tuesdays: Aug. 4, 11, 18, 25 ▶▶ Thursday: Aug. 6, 13, 20, 27

Walk at a brisk pace from the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) to the top of Mt. Tabor. Then spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs climbing up and down to get fit for climbs/hiking this spring/summer. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk; bring cash if interested in grabbing a quick bite. Total time 2 hours. 5 miles 500 ft.

Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd & Stark) 6 p.m. Leader: Meg Linza, 503-502-8782. $2 (arrive a little early to sign in).

Dates: Aug. 5, 12, 19, 26

Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday. Multiple groups will be led at different paces.

Bring a headlamp. 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

in the Nob Hill and Hillside neighborhoods of Northwest Portland to view 13 Heritage Trees representing 11 species. The pace will be moderate with stops to learn about the trees and a bit of Portland History. This is a dog friendly activity. Meet in Wallace Park at the corner of NW Pettygrove and NW 26 St. Park on nearby side streets. 4.25 miles 460 ft. Dr. 0 none 9 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 09 (Sun) Obsidian Trail Loop. Jess Beauchemin, 503446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@ gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Lavapalooza #4, hike through the spectacular Obsidian Limited Entry area and discover wildflower meadows, alpine lakes, a waterfall and of course, sparkling obsidian flows. Call or email leader for more information—registration required.

12 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 1 TH Scott Lake Campground 9 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 09 (Sun) McNeil Point Shelter. Sojo Hendrix, sojo42@ gmail.com Classic hike on Mt. Hood’s west side to the iconic stone shelter. We will take the steep, scramble path up to the shelter and return along the gentle McNeil Point Trail back to Timberline, plus a bonus loop around Bald Mountain! 9 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 100 8 a.m.

HK A2 Aug 10 (Mon) Matthieu Lakes. Jess Beauchemin, 503446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@ gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Lavapalooza #5, visit one of Oregon’s best swimming lakes on a casual stroll near McKenzie Pass.

We’ll hike through the forest and along a lava flow to visit North and South Matthieu Lakes, plus take in great views of the Cascades along the way. Call or email leader for more information—registration required. 6 miles 800 ft. Dr. 7.5 TH Scott Lake Campground 9 a.m.

HK B1 Aug 10 (Mon) Neahkahnie Mountain. Ray Sheldon, 360-5740221. Meet at the parking area on the west side of Hwy 101, across the

highway from the west side trail head at 9 AM. This parking area is about 1.1 miles south of the Oswald West parking lot on 101. We will hike through a coastal forest to the summit which offers views south as far as the eye can see. We will return on the same trail to the cars.

Note: Leader will be staying at Fort Stevens State Park. 4 miles 1,200 ft.

Dr. 190 9 a.m.

HK A1 Aug 11 (Tue) Fort to Sea. Ray Sheldon, 360-991-8489. Meet at the Fort Clatsop Visitors Center at Lewis and Clark N.P. located S.E. of Astoria at 9 a.m. We will hike past Clatsop Ridge Viewpoint, under Hwy 101, past the Pioneer Church, across the floating bridge, then on to Neoxie Lake and the parking lot where a shuttle car will take drivers back to the Fort. To actually do the full hike, there is a .3 mile walk from the lot down to the Pacific. National Park entrance fee.

Note: Leader will be staying at Fort Stevens State Park. 6.9 miles 340 ft.

Dr. 210 TH 9 a.m.

HK B1 Aug 12 (Wed) Saddle Mt. Ray Sheldon, 360-991-8489. Meet at TH at 9 AM at Saddle Mt. State Park, located 7 miles off Hwy 26.

Turn off Hwy 26 at the State Park sign near milepost 10. We will travel through Red Alder, then Douglas Fir and Spruce before skirting around house-sized boulders and into steep, rocky meadows. We then drop down into the saddle before making the final climb to the summit where we will have views from the Pacific to Mt. Hood. 5.2 miles 1,620 ft. Dr. 190 State Park 9 a.m.

HK A1 Aug 13 (Thu) Astoria River Walk. Ray Sheldon, 360-991-8489.

Meet at the Safeway Parking Lot located on Hwy 30 at the east end of Astoria at 9 AM. We will travel a short distance east on the walk to view the East End Moorage Basin and the sea lions that have taken over the docks. We then turn back and travel west on a paved walkway along the Columbia River as we take in all the excitement of

historical Astoria and how it has morphed into the modern day area. At the west end you will have the option of walking back to the cars or taking a return ride on the trolley ($1) 6.4 miles 0 ft. Dr. 160 9 a.m.

HK B1 Aug 14 (Fri) Tillamook Head. Ray Sheldon, 360-9918489. Meet at the north trailhead at 9 AM. From Hwy 101 on the south side of Seaside, turn west on Avenue U for two blocks, then left on Edgewood which turns into Sunset Blvd. for 1.2 miles to roads end TH. We will hike south, crossing the high point of the trail before reaching the WW2 Bunker and a view of Tillamook Rock. We then travel down past Indian Beach to Ecola Point, passing three of the most scenic viewpoints on the hike.

A shuttle will take drivers back to their cars. 7.6 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 190 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 Aug 15 (Sat) Upper & Lower Falls Creek. Kent Meyer, 360-574-0784. We hike to the lower tall falls and continue on for lunch at the low upper falls. 7 miles 1,250 ft. Dr. 120 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 15 (Sat) Tom-Dick Mountain. Dan Smith, 503-4088923. Wilderness—Limit 12. Great short hike with beautiful views!

We’ll take pictures at Mirror Lake and on the top. Good warm up for RTM hikers! Call for spot but will open up at 6:50 a.m. 7.2 miles 1,715 ft. Dr. 94 Gateway 7 a.m.

HK C2 Aug 15 (Sat) Rock of Ages Loop. Brett Nair, 503-847-9550.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Join me on this tough, iconic gorge hike. Tree cover will keep us cooler than if we were exposed to the sun, but you’ll work up a sweat on this hike.

First two miles are thigh-busters!

10.6 miles 3,500 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m. MU

continued on next page

Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g.

1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

AUGUST 2015

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Trail Trips, continued from previous page HK B2 Aug 16 (Sun) Mazama Trail (TH to Timberline).

Rex Breunsbach, 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. We will hike up Vista Ridge to the Timberline Trail, then loop down through beautiful Eden Park before returning to our cars. Expect a couple, possibly gnarly water crossings. 9.5 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 116 TH Gateway Park & Ride 8 a.m.

HK C2 Aug 16 (Sun) Casey Creek via Gorton Creek. Dyanne Foster, 503-267-8937. Wilderness—Limit 12. Hike the beautiful Herman Creek trail for 4 miles then take a sharp left up the winding Casey to the ridge to enjoy lunch with a view. Descend via Gorton Creek on a gradual soft trail.

We can add a side trip to Indian Point if group desires. 15 miles 3,995 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK A2 Aug 17 (Mon) Trails to Ales: Tryon Creek State Park. Regis Krug, 503-704-6442. We’ll do the 7 mile outer loop around the park, keeping an eye out for woodpeckers and owls, then retire to the nearby Sasquatch Brewing Company for some refreshing ales. 7 miles 500 ft Dr. 25 Tryon Creek State Park 11321 SW Terwilliger Blvd 6 p.m. MU HK B2 Aug 19 (Wed) Angora Peak. Rex Breunsbach, 971-8322556 or breunsba@teleport.com.

A Manzanita Oregon area Coastal Hike. Panoramic views of Pacific Coast and Nehalem River Valley 9 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 180 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 21 (Fri) Opal Creek Loop. Larry Solomon, muensterhump@hotmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Follow the Little N. Santiam River past several waterfalls among huge old growth Doug fir & red cedar. Visit Jawbone Flats, once a mining settlement now a forest research center. Then on to stunning Opal Pool. 10.5 miles 500 ft.

Dr. 190 MMC 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Aug 22 (Sat) Heritage Trees #7, Alameda. Tom Guyot, 503-761-9519. Enjoy an urban hike to see Heritage Trees in the beautiful Alameda area. On this moderately-paced hike we will see 24 spectacular trees representing 12 species, including a rare Judas tree. Our last stop will be to see two trees on the grounds of the Thomas Autzen mansion. Dogs are welcome.

Meet at the intersection of NE 18th St. and NE Failing (the SE corner of the Sabin Elementary School play field). Park on nearby side streets.

4.0 miles 100 ft. Dr. 0 none 9 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 22 (Sat) McNeil Point (Top Spur to Tie-In).

Mitch Auerbach, 503-505-2160.

Wilderness—Limit 12. A late summer favorite. Fantastic views of Mount Hood up close from the north, as well as Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier and other peaks to the north. Plus, the wildflowers should be at their peak. 9 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Aug 23 (Sun) Franklin Ridge Loop. Sheri Alice Smith, 503-807-9373. Car shuttle, leaving from Horse Tail Falls. Hike up the Oneonta Gorge to Franklin Ridge high point. A short visit to Wispi View Point then down Multnomah Creek. Nice shady scenery if it’s hot, and if raining—you’re covered! 10.1 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m.

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.

FOR SALE: Forested land in Gifford Pinchot NF. 70 miles from Portland. 2–13 acre lots, some on Trout Creek. Nice cabin, private.

Contact: acunatpdx@gmail.com.

HK B2 Aug 25 (Tue) Heather Canyon. Ed Rea, edrea9@gmail. com. In conjunction with the Von Trapp Family Singers concert & dinner at the Lodge, a short hike up Heather Canyon is offered to get participants in an eating and music enjoyment mood. Clark Creek in Heather Canyon is one of the places to have wild flowers late in the season. We will stay close to the creek as we climb the multiple benches forming the creek bed.

Even possibly without much in the way of flowers each bench has a bedrock carved waterfall to engage the hiker. Trekking poles are strongly recommended to assist in making multiple stream crossings to work our way up and downstream. Back at the Lodge dinner and concert await those with tickets. 6 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 124 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK C2 Aug 26 (Wed) Whetstone Mountain. Larry Solomon, muensterhump@hotmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Experience beautiful Bull of the Woods wilderness with a hike that includes more than 20 switchbacks to the summit. Close-up view of Jefferson and panoramic views from Mt. Rainier to the Sisters to Mary’s Peak on the coast. 11 miles 3,500 ft. Dr. 190 MMC 7:30 a.m.

HK A1.5 Aug 28 (Fri) Junction Lake and Blue Lake Triangle. Kent Meyer, 360-574-0784. Wilderness— Limit 12. This hike is in the Indian Heaven Wilderness. We will be on about 1 mile of an old, not maintained trail. The rest is good trail with about 2 miles on the P C T. 8.8 miles 1000 ft. Dr. 128 TH Lewis & Clark near toilets 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 29 (Sat) Split Rock— Ramona Falls. Rex Breunsbach, 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will cross the Sandy River and climb on

the Timberline Trail to Split Rock Paradise Park. On our way back we will cool off at Ramona Falls. Bring your water wings. 11 miles 2,200 ft.

Dr. 95 TH Gateway Park & Ride 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Aug 29 (Sat) Larch Mountain. (Multnomah Falls).

Kate Evans, 503-635-6540. Enjoy multiple-mountain great views on this conditioning hike. 13.8 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C1.5 Aug 30 (Sun) Mt. Defiance. Tom Eggers, 503-3346356. Slow and steady to the top!

Wilderness—Limit 12. This hike is for those who never thought they could hike Mt. Defiance with a group, as most go too fast. We’ll take a slower pace to help you get to the top of the tallest mountain looking directly into the Gorge. We’ll go up Starvation Ridge, enjoy some views, then up past Warren Lake.

Wonderful views to the north while on the way to the summit, where we’ll look out onto the Hood River Valley and Mt. Hood. Return via the Defiance Trail. Call leader if you have questions or to pre-register.

11.9 miles 4,800 ft. Dr. 98 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK C2.5 Aug 30 (Sun) Yocum Ridge. Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@ gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Fast hike to one of the most stunning overlooks anywhere on the flanks of Mt Hood. The approach trail to Yocum Ridge is long but not steep. The only real gnarly part is the log crossing of the Sandy River near Ramona Falls. We’ll leave town early so we have time to hike 1.5 miles beyond the first viewpoint (7 miles in) if we’re inspired by the views. Email RSVP required by Fri 8/28. 17.4 miles 3,800 ft. Dr. 92 TH Gateway 6:30 a.m.

Sunny Freeman

WIDE FORMAT PRINTER ideal for printing 11x17 map. Great for photos too! Canon PIXMA iX6520 (new $349) plus ink cartridges ($140) for $250. Email rdenker@mac.com or call/text 503-956-3791.

COUPLE LOOKING FOR HOUSING: Mazama members Kati Mayfield & Aleksi Merilainen are looking for a rental apartment or house in SE Portland. Must be pet-friendly to accomodate our big, sweet dog.

Rental references available. Email kati.mayfield@gmail.com if you have a property to rent or know of one in your neighborhood.

HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

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sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes

Your Mazama Realtor

NE

W Darren Aboulafia—Mt. St. Helens Tracy Andrews—Mt. Adams Brandon Booth—Mt. Hood Joel Bruhn—Mt. Hood Don Davies—Mt. St. Helens Kristin Dreves—Mt. St. Helens Alexandra Frye—Cerro Dedicado Bill Guiffre—Mt. Adams Nick John—Mt. Hood Austin Jones—Mt. Hood Kim Kauzlarich—Mt. St. Helens Fanchon Knight—Mt. St. Helens Anne Kari Lyshaug—Mt. Ruapehu Scott McCormick—South Sister Megan McElroy—Unicorn Peak Jana Mines—Sahale Sue Pritzker—Mt. Shasta Chris Rivard—Mt. St. Helens Daniel Santos—Mt. St. Helens Eben Travis—Mt. Adams Carol Zuiches—Mt. Hood

Deceased (year joined) Gary Beck (1969), Rick Posekany (1973))

30

5

ASED CE

, 2014

3,300

21

TATED NS

REI

Reinstated Merle Clifton (2006), Tina Hadley (1998), Elizabeth Miller (2013), Rick Neahring (2004), Tamiko Stone (2012)

DE

June 27, Castle, Plummer, Pinnacle, Standard.

Leader: Chris Kruell, Asst: Kirstin Labudda. David Holton, Heather Laptalo, Bree Russell, Rebecca Schreiber, Patrick Sweeney, Craig Warden June 27, Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lake. Leader: Justin Rotherham, Asst: Craig Martin. Nicole Heath, Kyla Martin, Kaleb Martin, Mary Rotherham, Julia Rotherham, Erik Rotherham, Samantha Rumford, Mark Rumford, Leah Rumford, Laura Rumford June 27, Castle-Pinnacle-Plummer, Reflection Lake.

Leader: Jeff Litwak, Asst: Daniel Mick. Abhishek Dhanotia, Eric Einspruch, Alison Elliott, Sabina Grover, Pradheepa Krishnasamy, John Merrill June 28, Castle Dome, Standard. Leader: Kirstin Labudda, Asst: Chris Kruell. Dominique Bergner, David Eliason, Jeff Hungerford, Mike Lambert, Nils Martinsson, Aivy Nguyen, David Nichols, Chris Weaver, Mike Zuckerman June 28, Castle-Pinnacle, Reflection Lake. Leader: Dan Schuster, Asst: Nick Hershman. Mary Beth Turner, Nancy Goering, Peter Latriano, Brian Meyer, Brian Murray, Michael O’Brian, Jennifer Richards, Kate Wolf June 28, Eagle & Chutla, Eagle Trail. Leader: Jeff Litwak, Asst: Eric Einspruch. Abhishek Dhanotia, Alison Elliott, Sabina Grover, Pradheepa Krishnasamy, John Merrill, Daniel Mick June 28, Hibox, SW Route. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Seeger Fisher. Keith Dechant, Greg Graham, Lisa Hemesath, Gregg Ragland June 28, Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Steve Warner. Michael Austin, Jean Cavanaugh, Mahesh Dasarath, Eric Dattoli June 29, Castle-Pinnacle, Reflection Lake. Leader: Ania Wiktorowicz, Asst: Eric Einspruch. Aaron Bailey, Cheryl Frankenfield, Andrea Gentile, Jeff Litwak, Anna Revolinsky July 2, Middle Sister, SE Ridge. Leader: Ellen Gradison, Asst: Whitney Lindahl. Greg Long, Linda Man, Ashley Nelson, Christine Petersen, Deb Sankovitz July 3, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Aaron Nelson. Bob Farnes, Kendra Howard, Brian Meyer July 4, Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flat. Leader: Dan Schuster, Asst: Nancy Goering. Chrystal Dietz, Seth Dietz, Peter Latriano July 10, Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm. Leader: Ania Wiktorowicz, Asst: Margaret McCarthy. Susan Jeltch, Jesus Martinez, Marta Martinez, Andrew Sweany, Jacek Wiktorowicz July 12, Aiguille du Midi, Arete des Cosmiques.

Leader: Justin Brady, Asst: Jon Skeen. Tyler Bax, Laura Bax, Ally Imbody

Ju n e

June 13, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Dian Ott. Scott Baumberger, Jennifer Harmon, Diane Lloyd, David Lorang, Chad Rossmeissl, Philip Shatz, Mariela Szwarcberg, Erica Timm June 13, Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Leader: Alexander Fox, Asst: Steve Heikkila. Mahesh Dasarath, Lisa Kosher, Walker McAninch-Runzi, Andy Nuttbrock, James Pitkin, Jeff Shuman, Larry Watercott June 14, Brothers, Lena Lake. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Tom Davidson. Anne Ames, Angela Bohlke, Howard Buck, Seeger Fisher, Steven Loos, Ryan Reed June 16, Middle Sister, North Ridge. Leader: Justin Brady, Asst: Gary Ballou. Sean Connell, Kristen Frank, Denara Goble, Alex Howard, Nick John, Gary Riggs, Nicole Sisco, Kai Snyder, Valerie Uskoski June 17, Middle Sister, North Ridge. Leader: Ania Wiktorowicz, Asst: Francisco Villa. Andrea Bailey, Any Bauer, Alyssa Hursh, Rico Micallef, Andrew Neal, Richard Stellner June 20, Mt. Bretherton & Mt. Lena, Upper Lena Lake. Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Richard Stellner. Lisa Hemesath, Sojo Hendrix, Michael Kacmar, Sandee Meyers, Jonathan Meyers, Alison Stengrim June 20, Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge. Leader: Azure Olson, Asst: Mike Treadwell. Larry Buzan, Tammi Mosnot, Eric Olson, Maggie Tomberlin, Charissa Yang June 20, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Greg Scott, Asst: Vinny Marianielli. David Baumgarten, Jennifer Cox, Joe Kellet, Peter Latriano, Andy Veenstra June 20, Mt. Cruiser, South Corner. Leader: Glenn Widener, Asst: Thomas Dodson. John Andrews, Martin Gillen, Shem Harding, Joe Powell, John Rettig, Suresh Singh June 20, Unicorn, Snow Lake. Leader: George Cummings, Asst: John Meckel. Stephen Baker, Thomas Buttrick, Alison Elliott, Craig Francis, Tracy Gagnon, Kyle Johnson, Megan Oberle, Andrea Ogston, Kaitlin Rupert June 21, El Dorado, East Ridge. Leader: Amy Graham, Asst: Amy Mendenhall. Ardel Frick, Jeff Maag, John Merrill, Carrie Merrill, Barry O’Mahony, Del Profitt June 21, Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier. Leader: Preston Corless, Asst: Rico Micallef. Kelly Diephuis, Sanman Rokade June 21, Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Leader: George Cummings, Asst: John Meckel. Stephen Baker, Thomas Buttrick, Craig Francis, Tracy Gagnon, Kyle Johnson, Megan Oberle, Kaitlin Rupert June 27, El Dorado, Eldorado Glacier. Leader: Robin Wilcox, Asst: Heather Campbell. Martin Gillen, Ryan Johnson, Britt Laurenti, John McNulty, Drew Prochniak, Vivek Tiwari June 27, The Tooth, South Face. Leader: Rayce Boucher, Asst: Stephen Hirai. Jamie Anderson, Francisco Cardenas-Waller, Jeff Perkins, Layne Russel

Welcome New Mazamas!

June

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

30

2

, 2015

3,422

AUGUST 2015

41

Yggdrasil

Main: The Incredible Hulk is located in the High Sierra. The Red Dihedral climbs perfect, clean, golden granite with straightin jamming cruxes on the West face, visible on the right-hand side of the photo. Photo: Rebecca Schob. Inset: Katie and Rebecca take a moment to appreciate the views and the quality of the route when swapping pitches. Photo: Katie Mills.

42

MAZAMAS

by Rebecca Schob

N

o, that’s not the onomatopoeia of me hurling when I heard Katie suggest we climb ‘The Red Dihedral’ (aka Yggdrasil) on The Incredible Hulk though it could have been had I not come up with more dumb­struck words like, “I don’t know; do you think we can?”

It seemed audacious and out of our league. Was she baiting me or serious? “I don’t know!” She blurted back. Followed by, “Why not?” Her voice quivering with bravado meant to convince us both.

Hmm, well, high in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California, phrases such as “The Hulk”, “Peter Croft,” and “long­strenuous­5.10­alpine­trad­route” tend initially to instill fear in me. And rightly so!

Fear serves its purpose to make us stop and think.

Would we play it safe and go on climbing whatever we KNEW was within our ability, or take the leap and trust in our ability?

So hope crept in, “Whoa, what if we did???”

“That would be THE SEND OF THE CENTURY!” “Maybe we can ....” Yet those 12 alluring moonlit pitches of solid granite rising up like a 1500-foot iceberg were overshadowed by doubt still larger.

Why is doubt so powerful? That mental hurdle, of believing in one’s ability to meet the challenge and reap the rewards, is most often the crux of any climb for me. It’s also a conversation handed back and forth between climbing partners—like pitches or the lead pack, ‘Are we ready?’ Ultimately, you share the weight of the decision though you never know how the climb will go until you get there and fully shoulder the responsibility.

By the time Katie and I had sat shivering for an hour at the base of the climb, wondering if the wind would die down when the light came up, we had already determined we would give it our all. We marveled at each other’s bravery when we followed what the other had led. And when the technical crux I most feared presented itself, I laughed out loud remembering how difficult it had looked from below and moved through the crux with relief because I’d made it larger in my mind that it ultimately was!

It’s so easy to get into a comfort zone, maybe never push ourselves from a 5.9 to a 5.10, from a Mt. Hood to a Mt. Rainier, or even just out the door to hike. But, imagine the possibilities ....

To paraphrase a favorite quote: we’ve got be ready at any moment to sacrifice what we are for what we could become. So let’s embrace the possibilities and go surprise ourselves this summer! Let’s grow and discover something that shifts how we think, and move. Let’s believe in ourselves.

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ADVENTURE TRAVEL— FOREIGN & DOMESTIC

Go Exploring in 2015!

Enjoy affordable adventure travel with qualified trip leaders this summer.

JOHN MUIR TRAIL TREK Aug. 28–Sep. 10

Follow in the steps of John Muir as we take his 220 mile namesake trail from the top of Mt Whitney (14,494 ft.) to the Yosemite Valley, traversing the beautiful and scenic high Sierras. To overcome issues with obtaining a permit we will be starting our journey a little South of Mt Whitney at the Cottonwood trail head. This will add 17 miles to the hike.

Highlights of the trek include multiple 10,000-foot passes, alpine lakes, jaw dropping scenery and the summit of Mt. Whitney.

Get full details online—mazamas.org/ activities-events/outings.

TECHNICAL SLOT CANYONEERING Oct. 13–18

Explore the hidden and mystical world of slot canyons in the remote deserts of Southern Utah. During six days the group will take on several technical and challenging routes in areas around Lake Powell, San Rafael Swell, Robber Roost, and Canyonlands National Park. Desert Navigation and skills in technical canyoneering will take you to amazing slot canyons to experience some fascinating rock formations in intriguing ambient light.

Get full details online—mazamas.org/ activities-events/outings.

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form.

Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers— seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club— outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club— americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.”

44

MAZAMAS

MAZAMA AFFILIATE OUTING ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREKKING TOUR Oct. 26–Nov. 13, 2015

This will be a 19-day trip, fully supported by local guides and porters, with 13 days of trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary, the very heart of the amazing Annapurna Massif, home to more than 30 individual peaks, some over 26,000 ft. in elevation. We will visit numerous Garung villages along the way and stay overnight at two of the massif ’s many climbing base camps, including Machhapuchhre (summit elevation 22,943 ft.) at 12,139 ft. and Annapurna South (summit elevation 23,684 ft.) at 13,550 ft. The remaining days will be available to explore on our own in exotic and chaotic Kathmandu and the charming, lakeside city of Pokhara—the two largest population centers in Nepal. The cost is $2,995.

This is a chance to visit one of the highest and densest concentrations of mountain peaks anywhere in the world.

This is a true adventure travel bargain. Led by Mazama Jim Ronning.

MAZAMA CLIMB AWARDS Every year the Mazamas recognizes climbing accomplishments and gives out climbing awards in various categories. The Climbing Committee is now accepting applications for all climbing awards. All qualifying climbs for these awards must be successful official Mazama climbs.

CLIMBING AWARDS ▶▶ Guardian Peaks: Mount. St. Helens, Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. ▶▶ Seven Oregon Cascade Peaks: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, ThreeFingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister and South Sister. ▶▶ Sixteen Major Northwest Peaks: Mt. Shasta, South Sister, Middle Sister and North Sister, Mt. Washington, ThreeFingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan.

LEADER AWARDS Terry Becker Award: Successful leads on the 16 Major Northwest Peaks 5, 10 and 15 Point Leadership Awards: Leading and assists on sixteen major Northwest peaks.

All qualified applicants are encouraged to apply. Application deadline for the Sixteen Peaks and Terry Becker Award is Sept. 20. For all other awards, the deadline is Oct. 15.

Submit your application (including scanned copies of your summit certificates) online. Login to the Mazama Member section of the website, click on Awards, and then Awards–Climbing.

KHUMBU, NEPAL SERVICE TREK Oct. 14–Nov. 11, 2015

28 day trip: Fly to Katmandu and stay in Thamel, an historic district near world heritage sites. A short domestic flight along the Himalayas lands in Lukla and there the trek begins. We trek along the Duh Kosi River on the Mt. Everest Base Camp Trail on the way to the center of the Khumbu: Namche Bazar. The destination is Phortse where we will spend 13 days working to complete the shell of the Khumbu Climbing Center (an Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation project) and help with reconstruction of homes in the village.

This is a wonderful opportunity to work with the Sherpa villagers of Phortse to rebuild their lives after the recent devastating earthquake and avalanches and support Nepali expedition workers by working on the KCC. Seeking people in great condition who possess a sense of adventure & good construction skills.

Evolution Healthcare & Fitness is offering free altitude training in their gym for folks going to Nepal to participate in relief efforts.

For more information about the trip and altitude training contact Mike Pajunas, 503-260-2693, mikepajunas@gmail.com

MAZAMA LODGE

Your Home on the Mountain The good news is we have plenty of availability at the lodge mid-week this August. The bad news is if you’re a summer skiing enthusiast the Palmer Ski Lift is likely be operating on a very limited basis, if at all. All of our regular summer ski camps have cancelled due to the lack of snow.

Fortunately we booked our weekends in August with wedding so the lodge will not see much financial impact from the summer ski season being cut short. The other trend we are seeing with regards to summer use is by midAugust many schools are back in session. Portland Public Schools is opening before Labor Day (Thursday, Aug. 27).

The upside is more availability—not just at the Mazama Lodge but at campgrounds throughout the Mt. Hood National Forest.

VON TRAPP CONCERT We have been having a great response for our August 25 concert featuring the great grandchildren of Captain and Maria Von Trapp. Tickets are available online or you can purchase tickets at the MMC. Tickets are $36 and include dinner. For those interested in some “Sound of Music Inspiration” prior to the concert we have a hike leaving the lodge at 9 a.m. and returning at 4 p.m.

VON TRAPP CONCERT DINNER ▶▶ Cheese Fondue with Apples and Bread ▶▶ Mixed Green Salad with Alpine Dressing ▶▶ Chicken Schnitzel Garnished with Lemon Wedges ▶▶ Grilled Summer Squash with Olive Oil and Fresh Basil ▶▶ Coconut Lemon Cake served after the Concert

Adirondack Mountain Club members Kate Balduzzi, Sarah (11), and Emily (7) enjoy a relaxing evening at Mazama Lodge. Photo: Charles Barker.

AUGUST 2015

45

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MINUTES—JULY 14, 2015

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. Draft Minutes.

Attending: Sojo Hendrix–president, Judith Baker–vice-president, John Rettig– secretary, Steve Hooker–treasurer, Kate Evans, Sunny Freeman, Marty Hanson, Joan Zuber. Absent: Amy Mendenhall. Staff: Jamie Andnerson, Sarah Bradham, Mathew Brock, Kati Mayfield.

The meeting was called to order at 6:32 p.m. by President Sojo Hendrix. It was noted that a quorum was present.

The agenda was reviewed. Requested changes were: ▶▶ John Rettig requested a slot after the Secretary’s report to announce an Executive Council election petition received, and to discuss the letter from counsel regarding Bylaws interpretation. ▶▶ Joan Zuber requested time to discuss the Stewardship Conservation survey ▶▶ Kate Evans requested a small time slot for a Classic Mazamas verbal report.

It was moved by Judith Baker and seconded by Steve Hooker to approve the agenda as amended; motion carried unanimously.

The general minutes from May 12, 2015 and June 9, 2015 were reviewed. It was moved by Judith Baker and seconded

by Marty Hanson to approve both sets of minutes as written; motion carried unanimously.

The executive session minutes from May 12, 2015 (2 sets) and June 9, 2015 (3 sets) were reviewed. It was moved by Kate Evans and seconded by Marty Hanson to approve all five sets as written; motion carried unanimously.

John Rettig announced that he had been served petitions for Jon Jurevic to run for Executive Council, comprised of 76 written signatures and 29 electronic signatures, total 105, as of the start of this meeting. Staff will verify signatures,

but since the Bylaws require a minimum of 75 voting members to petition for a candidate to qualify, it is highly likely he will qualify, given the margin. No further approval action was needed by Executive Council or Nominating Committee for this to proceed, and the candidate has already been engaged to produce a biography and photograph for the election. These petitions are incorporated herein by reference [note that the acceptance period for electronic signatures did not close until adjournment, per the Bylaws, and two more electronic signatures were received after this report was made, bringing these numbers up to 31 electronic and 107 total].

John Rettig had previously announced that one of the Nominating Committee’s Executive Council nominees named in the June minutes, Lynn Dingler, had been challenged by a member because of not having a contiguous three year membership immediately prior to the upcoming election, and that an analysis of our Bylaws by counsel (Schwabe Williamson Wyatt) had upheld the challenge, disqualifying the candidate from running in 2015. This is now entered into these minutes to put it into the record. A recommendation from counsel was also made to address the “next preceding” language that initially caused the confusion on the matter, and the next time we update the Bylaws to clarify this language to just say exactly what we mean. John Rettig requested a sense of the directors to either leave it as-is with present meaning (contiguous three year membership required immediately prior to the upcoming election), or to direct something different. By consensus, we elected to leave the meaning as-is when the Bylaws update occurs.

BUSINESS AND STAFF REPORTS: ▶▶ Secretary’s Report: The June 30 membership report was read verbally into the record. ▶▶ Treasurer’s Report: As of the end of May, the Mazamas total operational revenue is $657,571 ($44,759 for the month) and total operating expenses are $783,727 ($90,223 for the month).

Current total assets are $1,565,370. ▶▶ Executive Director’s Report: Jamie Anderson presented the report, since Lee was absent. Items noted beyond the written summary provided in the packet were as follows: ▷▷ Sept. 4 is the new date for the Portland premier of the movie Meru. ▷▷ July 24 is the deadline for committees to submit 2015-16 budget request changes relative to the 2014-15 budget. ▶▶ Kati Mayfield presented a Volunteer Management Plan update, and submitted a written report Twelve Elements of Volunteer Management. ▶▶ Mathew Brock presented a Mazama Library Update, and a Needs Analysis and Recommendations report for both the Library and Historical Collections.

Mathew asked us for guidance on the work plan going forward; it was moved

by Steve Hooker and seconded by Kate Evans to support conceptual approval of the LHC 2015-16 work plan, subject to seeing budget impacts for next year; motion carried unanimously. ▶▶ Preston Corless and Teresa Bright presented a business/feasibility plan for the Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock. The immediate expenditure coming up will be about $15,000 to test both the well production and septic system capacity, paid by Mazamas Foundation.

Executive Council minutes are abridged and subject to approval; for official version, go to mazamas.org/ members/executive-council-reports/.

46

MAZAMAS

OLD BUSINESS The Consent Agenda was reviewed; there were written reports from the following committees: ▶▶ 20s and 30s Mazamas ▶▶ Climbing ▶▶ Education / ICS ▶▶ Expedition ▶▶ Outings ▶▶ Outreach ▶▶ Risk Management ▶▶ Strategic Plan ▶▶ Trail Trips Classics: Kate Evans gave a verbal report for Classic Mazamas that they had a great turnout—52 members—for their potluck at Dick Miller’s home.

Conservation: Joan Zuber noted there had only been one electronic announcement of the Stewardship/ Conservation survey sent out recently, that it was missed by many, and that we may not get a good response if this is not addressed. Staff announced that they planned on several more promotions in both written and electronic media.

THE REPORTS NOT REQUESTING ACTION WERE APPROVED BY CONSENSUS. Action items requested were: ▶▶ ICS: Matt Sundling requested an additional $3,000-4,000 beyond budget in this fiscal year to initially ramp up to a new financial plan for ICS over the next two years; it would after two years be self-supporting. He additionally requested $6,000 additional for upfront purchase of 8 trad racks. After some discussion, Matt was encouraged to move the trad racks into next year’s budget for ICS, given our financial performance at the moment leaves us $20,000 over budget with only two months remaining. It was moved by Steve Hooker and seconded by Kate Evans to increase ICS budget by $3,500 for 2014-15 year; motion carried unanimously.

NEW BUSINESS: The Mazamas Foundation Board member recommendations agenda item was tabled to next month.

Jamie Anderson presented a new

proposal for the 2015 Annual Meeting, which would include food service and a revised agenda. It was approved by consensus.

Marty Hanson presented a Bylaws change proposal to put before a membership vote, wherein the Nominating Committee chair would be subject to Executive Council approval, as are the other standing committees, and have a liaison assigned. It was clarified that we presently have a liaison assigned already; this does not require any change. Some discussion then ensued regarding what benefits and detriments have occurred as a result of making the Nominating Committee elected and also more independent of Executive Council in 2012; in the end, it was requested that we see draft language first before continuing that discussion. Marty agreed to withdraw the motion and work on drafting language to present.

We adjourned at 9:04 p.m.

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AUGUST 2015

47

Nov. 17–22

Portland Alpine Festival

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