Thic skin

Empowering the mind and body through social preservation and protection.

1: thick skin

chapter 2: secluded spaces

chapter 3: peace of mind

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Currently we are living in a digital age where likes and comments dictate the way we engage and operate not only with others but ourselves. With our personal information at free access to the public a new social conscious has arisen leading to the privatisation of our personal lives; becoming more sensitive to information being shared and received. Thick skin explores this concept, becoming more aware of the way we present ourselves online and in private, through prioritising our mental health and security.

Designs will couple the harsh with the comfy: bold metallics, chunky knits and tough leathers. Paired with chainmail motifs, clothing will be used as a form of armour not only for our physical bodies but also our mental attitudes.

Reimagining our spaces into fortresses, a place for seclusion and relaxation. Our need for comfort and privacy will merge into our home lives leading to greater emphasis on our wellbeing and self-care. Brands will champion this idea through their more personable approach to retail. Curating welcoming and intimate environments that feel more like your living room than a store.

In 2023, consumers will be looking inwards as they shift towards a more private lifestyle which focuses on nurturing their mind and regaining control, with these efforts being reflected in their clothing choices and environment.

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chapter 1 - thick skin

The Healing Imprint by Laura Deschl

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soft fabrics

The concept: Comforting, free flowing and soft fabrics are set to drive these knitted looks for s/s 23, as designers have started to explore the limits of ambiguous protective fashion through hyper- functional clothing. This is hugely influenced by the covid-19 pandemic and having to shield away/ communicate a ‘thick skin’ for protection.

Materials and details: introducing Soft to the touch, structured and padded knitwear, paired with flowing materials embodying this idea of protective layering as seen in the Marc Jacobs ready to wear collection of 2021. This collection is an important reference, inspiring this billowing, off the skin look - anything that hangs away from the body, wraps around, contrasts to the layers already created.

Rodarte spring 2017 ready-to-wear

Purl Soho

Surreal Scenes by Marc Sommer

Calvin Klein fall 2018

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protective fabrics

The concept: Developing the idea of having a thick skin, metallic and powerful pieces will give the consumer an extra layer of confidence and support.

Materials: These fabrics can include: metal, leather, chainmail, sequins and many more that give off that shiny effect.

The details: Tones of silver and gold feature heavily, reflecting a hard outer shell. It can be substantial to wear but should be worn with pride as it connotates to warriors fighting in battle.

Hermès spring 2020 ready-to-wear

Givenchy spring 2010 menswear

Zendaya, Met Gala Red Carpet 2018

AllSaints, Nottingham, 2021

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layering

The Concept: During the pandemic we all felt comfortable under layers of thick, padded fabrics such as blankets and night wear which now translates into today’s clothing.

Materials: Feeling secure with multiple fabrics keeping you safe, warm and content. These could be thick, thin, fluffy or whatever you feel.

Marc Jacobs fall 2021

Billie Eilish for Vogue Australia, 2019

Abu Dhabi, 2021

Chloe Tang for Grazia China

Angela Glajcar, n.d.

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chapter 2 - secluded spaces

home comfort

The concept: Due to the Covid-19 pandemic and isolating for long periods of time, consumers got used to creating and upgrading their own habitats. More often people are seeking the feeling of the security of their homes, so it is important to utilise this to engage with them. A re-creation of the comfort and warmth of consumer homes in-store with an evolving, more enhanced version of the lockdown casual look could be set to drive us into 2023.

Materials, details and colours: Brushed cottons, flat weaves and velvets in muted pastels are imperative for communicating a visual elegance and providing a tactile stimuli. They create an inviting, natural look to an interior promoting a feeling of relaxation and comfort. Using soft blues, pinks and minty greens alongside warm greys will create a subtle, earthy feel and evoke harmony and peace thus playing with the thoughts and feelings of the consumer.

Taakk a/w 2021

LAN Architecture in Strasbourg by Lorenzo Zandri

Muuto offices, Copenhagen, 2019

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soft angles

The concept: following the same aesthetic seen in home comfort, soft lighting and curves are expected to give consumers comfort and a feeling of being at home, outside of their homes.

The details: soft edges of basic elements such as chairs, tables, sofas and changing rooms, rounded pieces of furniture like poufs and vases offering a harmonious ambience, and dim light bulbs to create subtle shadows.

ASKA for Maria Nila, 2021

Sequel restaurant, Mumbai, 2021

LuxDeco, 2022

Sequel restaurant, Mumbai, 2021

Massproductions, 2018 ASKA for Maria Nila, 2021

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Due to the normalisation of social media, there have been an onslaught of issues concerning mental health, data protection and our privacy. As our digital security and presence is held within a wider conversation we are developing a greater awareness of our digital footprint and the side effects of the constant consumption of social media.

We conducted a questionnaire poised towards Gen Z and Millennials to gain a generalised overview of emerging attitudes. With a great number of them being negatively charged with concerns over their safety especially over location services; raising anxiety levels making people ‘fear over safety and stalking’ as well as feeling ‘insecure’ and ‘uncomfortable’.

Directly correlating to the major spike in mental health issues, this epidemic has been accredited to the rise in social media especially the ‘influencer’ image. As many people within the questionnaire felt being inundated with these highly edited bodies in an overly glamorised lifestyle led to a lack of self-esteem and self-worth.

From this we can sense a retraction of engagement on social media platforms, with a promotion towards more authentic voices that speak to the wider consumer. Making people feel comfortable and welcomed again in their own digital space.

Do you get anxious about how your social media posts will be perceived by others?

Do you interact with social media posts?

Do you read the comment section of posts?

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chapter 3 - peace of mind

Emilia Mäenpää

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taking care of mental health

In this post-covid era people are finding comfort in their connections with others and are seeking a new sense of self. With isolation and anxiety defining our 2020’s people are taking opportunities to re-coup and focus on their wellbeing. Actively altering their lifestyle to become more mindful and self-aware.

Those in the public eye will feel the effects of this trend the most, in particular ‘influencers. Since their image is completely digitally mediated, criticism is in abundance with their lifestyles facing consistent scrutiny. This scrutiny can have damaging and lasting effects on their mental health, leading them to retreat and centre themselves in home comforts and self-care mechanisms.

Taking themselves away from a screen and placing more of their motivations in selfhealing, mindfulness and community projects. Following a more private and discrete lifestyle.

TP Vineeth/Vinpan, 2020

Self-love, Beatrix Hatcher

Photo Session for a Yoga Teacher by Eman Magdy

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Community is a fundamental aspect of life, from the community you live in, your religion, or a club/ group you talk to on your PlayStation.

Community is a social group of any size whose members reside in a specific locality, share government, and often have a common cultural and historical heritage.

Community is a social, religious, occupational, or other group sharing common characteristics or interests perceiving itself as distinct in some respect from a larger society.

Community breeds life, happiness, beliefs, joy, conflict and spirit.

Community was really put to the test during the COVID 19 pandemic. The necessity of keeping those around you safe. From socially distant street parties, making sure your elderly neighbour has shopping, to friends and family waiting outside the hospital to experience the welcoming of a new life into the world or saying goodbye to one leaving. The circle of life continued, even when it felt like the world had stopped. Community was built even stronger to help those who needed it. It took people at their lowest and showed them that there was light at the end of the tunnel, and that no matter how alone they may have felt, they were never alone and that they would always have an army behind them fighting their corner, and lending a helping hand.

Victoria Dawe, 2020

Buddhist nuns pray, Hanoi, by Julian Abram Wainwrigh, 2019

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Our space is a safe space for communities of people. Their habitats are their safe space and that is the vibe we wanted to convey. We believe that our space has a warmth to it, a comfort and security that people crave and need. A metaphorical armour. We want our space to be that protection and comfort to those in there, because everyone always naturally goes back to their safe space at times of sadness, anxiety, fear, but also in joyous times to reconcile with those they love and cherish. Those in their community.

When thinking about our space we want to have a sense of charity shown in our look and overall vibe. Charity comes hand in hand with community. The small acts of kindness that one human shows another, to those lifechanging moments, whether that be a donation, a job, a favour or a simple helping hand. A donation too means many things to numerous people, it may be a monetary donation, a physical object donation such as clothing or toys. Sometimes a donation is more. It can better a life or save one of someone in need.

BBC News, 2020

BPS News, 2020

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conclusion

Focusing on yourself and ensuring self-love will be at the forefront of this trend. Embodying comfort; personifying protection. Involving softer materials with a metallic accent will be a defying feature that will transcend into our spaces. This trend revolves around the need for us, as a society, to regain a sense of control and draw ourselves inwards. Becoming more self-aware and present in our lives focusing on what makes us genuinely happy without the voices from social media inhibiting this. We will also see this trickle down into companies’ values as they take more responsibility over these voices, placing more self-controlled regulations on our accounts, shifting how we interact with our social media and followers. Promoting a more secure and cushioned experience

Ilana Blumberg

‘The Pleasure Garden’ by Maison de Sable

William Muyayalo, 2021

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thank you

A report by Mar Alcaide Lozano, Maddi Dawson, Regan Ellis, Sophie Fuller, Livvy McAll and Molly Stollar-Fishbourne.

Report design by Mar Alcaide Lozano.

If you have any questions feel free to get in contact:

Mar Alcaide Lozano: n0947901@my.ntu.ac.uk

Maddi Dawson: n0917680@my.ntu.ac.uk

Regan Ellis: n0907597@my.ntu.ac.uk

Sophie Fuller: n0912706@my.ntu.ac.uk

Livvy McAll: n0906478@my.ntu.ac.uk

Molly Stollar-Fishbourne: n0914580@my.ntu.ac.uk

JW Anderson Womens AW 2021

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illustration list

Fig 1. Alcaide, M., 2022. Collage, O.W.

Fig 2. Nocito, J., 2018. Telfar FW18 campaign [digital image]. Dsreps. Available at: https://www.dsreps. com/slideshow-story/25073/telfar-fw18#15 [Accessed 15 January 2022].

Fig 3. Rijskamp, I. 2021. The Healing Imprint by Laura Deschl [digital image]. LS:N Global. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/news/article/27510/these-healing-garments-targetacupressure-points [Accessed 28 December 2021].

Fig 4. Perrenoud, D. 2021. Floating realities, Bureau, @daniel_zamarbide [digital image]. WGSN. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/interiors/article/92137 [Accessed 08 January 2022].

Fig 5. Mäenpää, E., 2020. Contact comfort [digital image]. Behance. https://www.behance.net/ gallery/109177003/CONTACT-COMFORT [Accessed 15 January 2022].

Fig 6. Nocito, J., 2018. Telfar FW18 campaign [digital image]. Dsreps. Available at: https://www.dsreps. com/slideshow-story/25073/telfar-fw18#15 [Accessed 15 January 2022].

December 2021].

Fig 11. Tondo, M., 2017. Rodarte Spring 2017 ready-to-wear [digital image]. Vogue Runway. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/rodarte#gallery-detail [Accessed 04 January 2022].

Fig 12. Canton, J., 2018. Two-Piece Woven Bag [digital image]. Purl soho. Available at: https://www. purlsoho.com/create/2018/05/04/two-piece-woven-bag/ [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 13. Vanderperre, W., 2018. Calvin Klein fall 2018 ad campaign. [digital image]. Fashionista. Available at: https://fashionista.com/2018/07/calvin-klein-fall-2018-ad-campaign#&gid=ci022e8b6c c0002476&pid=pr-jpgs-horizontal-205-f18_8 [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 8. Rijskamp, I. 2021. The Healing Imprint by Laura Deschl [digital image]. LS:N Global. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/news/article/27510/these-healing-garments-targetacupressure-points [Accessed 28 December 2021].

Fig 15. Feudi, M., 2010. Givenchy spring 2010 menswear. [digital image]. Vogue runway. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-menswear/givenchy/slideshow/collection#17 [Accessed 02 January 2022].

Fig 16. GETTY IMAGES, 2018. Zendaya, suit of Armor to the Met Gala Red Carpet 2018. [digital image]. Seventeen. Available at: https://www.seventeen.com/fashion/celeb-fashion/a20271890/ zendaya-met-gala-2018-dress/ [Accessed 02 January 2022].

Fig 17. Fior, F., 2020. Hermès spring 2020 ready-to-wear. [digital image]. Vogue runway. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/hermes/slideshow/ collection#24 [Accessed 02 January 2022].

Fig 18. Lizotte, J., 2019. Billie Eilish interview for Vogue [digital image]. Vogue Australia. Available at: https://www.vogue.com.au/celebrity/interviews/how-billie-eilish-went-from-unknown-teen-tomegastar-in-two-years/image-gallery/4f656153176bac884b94ec750bb49d52 [Accessed 02 January 2022].

Fig 19. Glajcar, A., n.d [digital image]. Tumblr. Available at: https://moodboardmix.tumblr.com/ post/135868537456/artist-angela-glajcar [Accessed 02 January 2022].

https://www.ignant.com/2015/11/14/striking-surreal-scenes-by-artist-marc-sommer/ [Accessed 28

[Accessed 02 January 2022].

Fig 7. Stollar-Fishbourne, M., 2022. Colour palette, O.W.

Fig 9. Stollar-Fishbourne, M., 2022. Concept board, O.W.

Fig 10. Sommer, M., 2015. Surreal Scenes by Marc Sommers [digital image]. Ignant. Available at:

Fig 14. McAll, L., 2021. AllSaints Nottingham. [photograph].

Fig 20. Jacobs, M., 2021. Marc Jacobs fall 2021 [digital image]. Marc Jacobs. Available at: https://www. marcjacobs.com/default/about-marc/collections/fall-2021/

Fig 21. Stollar-Fishbourne, M., 2021. Abu Dhabi. [photograph].

Fig 22. Kim, J., 2021. Chloe Tang for Grazia China [digital image]. Fashion Gone Rogue. Available at: https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/editorial/chloe-tang-grazia-china-jason-kim/ [Accessed 02 January 2022].

Fig 23. Alcaide, M., 2022. Collage, O.W

Fig 24. Perrenoud, D. 2021. Floating realities, Bureau, @daniel_zamarbide [digital image]. WGSN. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/interiors/article/92137 [Accessed 08 January 2022].

Fig 25. Stollar-Fishbourne, M., 2022. Concept board O.W.

Fig 26. Bindel, P., 2019. Muuto offices, Copenhagen [digital image]. Dezeen. Available at: https://www. dezeen.com/2019/06/03/muuto-copenhagen-office-hq-pastel-interiors/ [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 27. Broyez, C., 2021. LAN Architecture in Strasbourg by Lorenzo Zandri [digital image]. Dezeen. Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2021/06/11/lan-architecture-designs-pastel-colouredhousing-in-strasbourg/ [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 28. Tsuchiya, .K., 2021. Taakk autumn / winter 2021 [digital image]. Taakk. Available at: https:// taakk.jp/pages/2021-autumn-winter-look [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 29. Lundblad, M., 2021. ASKA uses organic shapes and pastel colours for Maria Nila hair salon [digital image]. Dezeen. Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2021/05/18/aska-maria-nilaheadquarters-stockholm/ [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 30. Atelier Ashiesh Shah, 2021. Ashiesh Shah creates “visually soft” restaurant interior in Mumbai [digital image]. Dezeen. Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2021/06/29/ashiesh-shah-sequelmumbai-interior/ [Accessed 05 January 2022].

[digital image]. Dezeen. Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2021/06/29/ashiesh-shah-sequelmumbai-interior/ [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 33. Lindh, L ., and Hedengren, K., 2018. Students team up with six Swedish brands to create furniture prototypes [digital image]. Dezeen. Available at: www.dezeen.com/2018/02/07/studentsswedish-brands-furniture-collection-stockholm-design-week/ [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 34. Lundblad, M., 2021. ASKA uses organic shapes and pastel colours for Maria Nila hair salon [digital image]. Dezeen. Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2021/05/18/aska-maria-nilaheadquarters-stockholm/ [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 35. McAll, L., and Stollar-Fishbourne, M., 2022. Mock-up, O.W.

Fig 36. Dawson, M., 2022. Pie chart, O.W.

Fig 37. Dawson, M., 2022. Pie chart, O.W.

Fig 38. Dawson, M., 2022. Pie chart, O.W.

Fig 39. Mäenpää, E., 2020. Contact comfort [digital image]. Behance. Available at: https://www. behance.net/gallery/109177003/CONTACT-COMFORT [Accessed 09 January 2022].

Fig 40. Alcaide, M., 2022. Concept board, O.W

Fig 41. TP Vineeth/Vinpan, 2020. Consolazione [digital image]. Behance. Available at: https://www. behance.net/gallery/108404215/CONSOLAZIONE [Accessed 09 January 2022].

Fig 42. Hatcher, B., 2021. Self-love [digital image]. Behance. Available at: https://www.behance.net/ gallery/111600815/Self-love [Accessed 09 January 2022].

Fig 43. Magdy, E., 2021. Photo Session for a Yoga Teacher [digital image]. Behance. Available at: https:// www.behance.net/gallery/112504647/Photo-Session-for-a-Yoga-Teacher [Accessed 09 January 2022].

Fig 31. LuxDeco, 2022 [digital image]. WGSN. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc. org/interiors/article/92986?show=image.35233157 [Accessed 05 January 2022].

Fig 32. Atelier Ashiesh Shah, 2021. Ashiesh Shah creates “visually soft” restaurant interior in Mumbai

Fig 44. Dawe, V., 2020. [digital image]. University of Birmingham. Available at: https://www. birmingham.ac.uk/news/latest/2020/06/community-spirit-dwindling-amongst-british-publicduring-lockdown-says-new-poll.aspx [Accessed 12 January 2022].

Fig 45. Wainwrigh, J., A., 2019. Buddhist nuns pray at a pagoda outside the Vietnamese capital Hanoi [digital image]. New Europe. Available at: https://www.neweurope.eu/article/religious-communitiesin-vietnam-honour-victims-of-violence/ [Accessed 12 January 2022].

Fig 46. PA, 2020. The residents of Cambrian Road in Chester dress up in 1945 clothing and have a tea party to mark the 75th anniversary [digital image]. Daily Mail. Available at: https://www.dailymail. co.uk/news/article-8302063/Garden-centres-OPEN-Customers-return-week-lockdown-eases.html [Accessed 12 January 2022].

Fig 47. The British Psychological Society, 2020. Community action vital to stopping the spread of Covid-19 [digital image]. The British Psychological Society. Available at: https://www.bps.org.uk/ news-and-policy/community-action-vital-stopping-spread-covid-19 [Accessed 12 January 2022].

Fig 48. Trannoy, G., 2019. Hand-knit mohair trousers [digital image]. @ilanablumberg Instagram. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx1zK4Yl80b/ [Accessed 11 January 2022].

Fig 49. Maison de Sable, n.d. “The pleasure garden” by Maison de Sable [digital image]. Selfridges. Available at: https://www.selfridges.com/GB/en/features/moodboard/good-nature-artists/ [Accessed 11 January 2022].

Fig 50. Muyayalo, W., 2021. Comfort [digital image]. Behance. Available at: https://www.behance.net/ gallery/123100819/-COMFORT- [Accessed 09 January 2022].

Fig 51. Anderson, J., 2021. JW Anderson Womens AW 2021 [digital image]. JW Anderson. Available at: https://www.jwanderson.com/us/colllections/womens-aw21 [Accessed 13 January 2022].

Fig 52. Anderson, J., 2021. JW Anderson Womens AW 2021 [digital image]. JW Anderson. Available at: https://www.jwanderson.com/us/colllections/womens-aw21 [Accessed 13 January 2022].