Summer Guide For Visitors YOUR FREE COPY
iLoveAthens
CityGuide
“Web & digital tools development in order to promote Athens as a Destination, within the Smart City context” (MIS 5032728)
EDITORIAL
Dear all,
I am sure you already know the great pleasures of Athens. We have an exceptional climate for every season, some of the most recognizable monuments and museums in the world, and secluded beaches just 30 minutes from the city center. Over the last few years, our visitors have begun to discover that Athens has much more to offer. We have proven that we are creative and resilient, with diverse and vibrant neighbourhoods and the confidence to combine fine art with street food. We are an ancient city that looks undaunted toward the future. As we are investing in quality of life for our residents and visitors in all of our 129 neighbourhoods, Athens is changing a lot little-by-little. We are improving walking paths and connecting our historic sites to the fabric of the city. We’re restoring our urban lungs, repairing historic fountains, and upgrading public spaces to keep the city clean and cool. We’ve signed up for climate action and committed ourselves to sustainable tourism. This is the moment for Athens. I am proud to welcome you. Best wishes, Kostas Bakoyannis Mayor of Athens
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00_INTRO
1. New In Athens. Three cultural
landmarks that just opened their doors.
2. Ancient Athens. A concise guide to
all the essential sites and museums to visit and learn about Ancient Greece.
3. Art & Design. Must see museums,
gallery districts, architectural landmarks and five unusual museums.
4. Secret Athens. Uncovering the city’s lesser known landmarks.
5. Outdoor Athens. Parks, mountains and the open air cinemas.
6. Coastal Athens. Beach life is just
half an hour away from the city center.
Plus: Speak Athenian/Where to skate/ Pocket parks
1st edition
Contents 4 SUMMER 2021
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www.lifo.gr
Editor Rachel Howard Contributors Diane Shugart, Alex King, Chloe Karnezis Chief Editors Michalis Michael, Tasos Brekoulakis Creative Director Yiannis Karlopoulos Design Christos Tzovaras Vanessa Ferle Copy editor Myrto Athanasopoulou Photography Paris Tavitian Coordination Thanasis Haramis
Produced by Dyo Deka Publishing SA 22 Voulis str. ATHENS 105 61 Greece For queries or comments email us at info@lifo.gr
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1. Ne Athe
Küba (2004) by Kutluğ Ataman and Our Ideas #2 (2018) by Adam Pendleton at the Tobacco Factory. Photograph © Natalia Tsoukala. Courtesy NEON.
The new cultural landmarks
e w in hens
N E W I N AT H E N S 1 .0 If you want to survive as long as Athens has, you need to learn how to reinvent yourself. That’s just as true today as it was when the city was founded five thousand years ago. This year marks the 200th anniversary of the start of the Greek Revolution in 1821. Athens is eager to show the world how far it has come in the last two centuries – and determined to prove that this isn’t the city you may have seen before, but a new post-crisis and post-pandemic reincarnation. After months of lockdown, Athens has emerged if not unscathed then revitalised. While some businesses that had survived for generations have sadly closed, a new wave of bars, restaurants, and hotels are being unveiled. The city government has been working hard too – scrubbing away graffiti, renovating derelict buildings and even whole districts, creating new pocket parks and pedestrian zones. The “Historic Triangle”, a tangle of streets and arcades wedged between Syntagma, Monastiraki and Omonia squares, has been largely pedestrianised, and cycle lanes are being introduced to make the compact city centre more friendly to cyclists too. Neglected empty plots in Ano Kypseli, Kolonos, Pangrati and Metaxourgeio have been turned into miniature parks – improving air quality and encouraging a sense of community. This surge of energy has been catalysed by the bicentenary, which has provided the impetus for new cultural landmarks such as the remodelled National Gallery, the long-awaited operation of the National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST), and the €1.2 million conversion of the former Public Tobacco Factory into an ambitious art space. Scattered around ancient ruins, Athens is easily mistaken for a living museum. Spend a little time in the city and you’ll soon realise that the next big transformation is always on the horizon.
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The Exodus from Missolonghi (1853) by Theodoros Vryzakis at the National Gallery.
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New in Athens
Tobacco Factory Lighting up an old landmark
The NEON Foundation is one of the most exciting forces in Greek contemporary art. With no fixed abode, its forwardthinking curators transform unexpected locations around the country into places of site-specific artistic discovery: from growing an edible installation in the gardens of the National Observatory to placing Anthony Gormley’s melancholy iron figures among the ruins on the island of Delos. Now NEON has undertaken its most ambitious project to date: the conversion of the former Public Tobacco Factory into a colossal cultural centre, gifted to the Greek state. The 1930s pastel-yellow building occupies a whole city block on Lenorman Avenue. Inside, NEON have aimed to use every bit of the 6,500 square metre space as creatively as possible. Fifteen site-specific installations have been created for the former Customs Office, the roof, and even the area surrounding the building, such as Kolonos Hill. The inaugural exhibition, “Portals”, features 59 major artists from 27 countries, who are responding to the change and disruption triggered by the pandemic. 218 Lenorman, Kolonos 104 43, +30 213 018 7722, neon.org.gr/en/exhibition/portals
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The National Gallery Art history
After a €59 million overhaul that lasted several years, the National Gallery is back. And it’s a triumph. The brilliantly curated presentation of two centuries of Greek art is an opportunity to uncover Greek history and understand the nation’s psyche. Ever since the foundation of an independent Greek state in 1830, artists have grappled with a national identity crisis: should Greece embrace East or West, religion or reason, tradition or modernity? The first floor of the National Gallery is devoted to the 19th century, beginning with Greece’s long struggle to sever itself from the Ottoman Empire. European philhellenes such as Eugène Delacroix were seduced by the romance of revolution and encouraged their Greek counterparts to join them in painting bombastic canvasses celebrating the heroic sacrifices of the Greeks as they fought for national liberation. The second floor focusses on 20th century artists’ attempts to develop a distinctive identity in the face of profound shocks experienced by Greek society, such as the Greco-Turkish war of 1919-1922, Nazi occupation during World War Two, and the brutal Civil War that followed. On the top floor, instantly recognisable work by well-known artists, such as the hats and plaid jackets of Yannis Gaitis and the billowing figures of Alekos Fassianos, are displayed alongside artists whose mixed media work is often more experimental. Vasileos Konstantinou 50, Pangrati 115 28, +30 214 408 6212, nationalgallery.gr/en
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The National Gallery.
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New in Athens
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Athens Olympic Museum Carrying the torch
The huge Golden Hall shopping complex might seem like an unlikely location for a museum dedicated to the Olympic Games. But the building was originally constructed as the International Broadcasting Centre for the 2004 Athens Olympics. This bright, futuristic museum traces the history of the Olympic Games back to their ancient origins: a means to broker a ceasefire among warring Greek city states, by celebrating the ideals of peace, unity and fair play. Interactive exhibits and artefacts faithfully recreate the sporting and religious festival held every four years in ancient Olympia. Modern memorabilia includes Olympic torches and striking posters from every edition of the modern Games since their resurrection in Athens in 1896. After your visit, step outside into the Olympic Park, centrepiece of the Athens 2004 Olympics, and walk through the striking white arches designed by Santiago Calatrava. Many of the sporting venues are still in use today, such as the velodrome, the open-air swimming pool and the main Olympic stadium, which is where one of Greece’s most successful football teams, AEK, play their matches. Inside Golden Hall Leoforos Kifisias 37a, Marousi 151 23, +30 210 688 5560, athensolympicmuseum.org/en
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Athens Film Office
Athens is an ideal setting for international productions.
How many times have you fallen in love with a city you’ve seen in a movie? What if that city was Athens? Until recently filmmakers who wanted to film in the Greek capital stumbled on red tape and a lack of government incentives. This has now changed thanks to the City of Athens’ brand-new Athens Film Office (AFO). Created in March 2020 through the Athens Development and Destination Management Agency (ADDMA), its main goal has been to transform Athens into a “film-friendly city”, attracting international productions to the Greek capital and proving that the city can work as a stunning film set. The Athens Film Office (AFO) works as a one-stop shop, receiving and managing all production requests, facilitating filming requirements and helping productions with everything, from hospitality and location scouting to overcoming bureaucratic obstacles, while also assisting producers claim a 40% cash rebate entitlement, a brand new national incentive by the government, hoping to attract filmmakers to Greece. In its first year of operation, more than 40 international and Greek productions have been filmed in the Greek capital, including “Tehran”, an Israeli spy thriller series for Apple TV, which will soon begin filming its second season in the city and Perrier’s international ad campaign. “Greek Freak”, a Disney film on the real-life rags to riches story of NBA superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo, is one of the biggest productions to be
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shot in Greece ever, giving an important boost to the city with a crew of more than 200 locals, hundreds of extras and a spend of more than 20 million euros. Other films which were shot this year included “The Grandson” (Homemade Films), “Exodus” (Green Olive), “The other me” (COSMOTE TV), “Dodo” (by Greek acclaimed filmmaker Panos Koutras) and the antiterrorism thriller “Νοvembre” starring Oscar winner Jean Dujardin, which focuses on the November 13, 2015 terrorist attacks in France. This is only the beginning: Paramount (Amazon Prime) will soon be filming season 3 of the action thriller series “Jack Ryan”, and arthouse favourite David Cronenberg will be directing “Crimes of the Future”, a science fiction film with a famous cast (Vigo Mortensen, Kristen Stewart, Léa Seydoux), in several, often obscure, Athens locations including an arcade in Aristeidou street in downtown Athens. These are productions in which Athens will play its own leading role, impressing viewers and reclaiming the place it deserves among the historic capitals of the world.
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Athens goes global, sustainable and accessible
Introducing the Athens Development and Destination Management Agency (ADDMA). In the future, visitors will come to Athens to join surfer tribes and to follow hip-hop artists, to take part in grassroots action and global partnerships, and to discover hidden beaches only 30 minutes away from the Acropolis. The journey starts with This is Athens, the Official Visitors’ Guide online at www. thisisathens.org. The site unlocks hidden neighbourhood gems, shopping, and stylish delights, as well as profiles of the creative communities re-inventing the city every day. There are more than 250 articles and insights written by local journalists in English, French, and German, plus 6500 photos by local photographers, 2000 points of interest, and an events calendar curated with visitors in mind. Athens is focused on cultural heritage found just below the city’s tough surface – a trip to the beach, evenings spent outdoors, a neighborhood taverna spilling happily into the street. That’s what Athenians might call their “quality of life.” It’s the buzz inspiring visitors to make Athens part of their life story. “The City of Athens is investing in quality of life and the well-being of residents in order to become a more sustainable and accessible destination. Athens is not investing in tourism to change the city, but the opposite. Athens has begun making the changes that the city needed for decades to create the conditions that will attract tourism”, says Vagelis Vlachos, CEO of the Athens Development and Destination Management Agency (ADDMA).
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Many visitors enjoy walking through the “open-air museum” of Athens, one of the most beautiful promenades in Europe linking the city’s archaeological sites and looping under the Acropolis. The final stretch of the ancient cultural pathway is coming into place between the Temple of Olympion Zeus and the Zappeion gardens and leading toward the allmarble Panathenaic Stadium, the site of the first Modern Olympics and the finishline of the annual Athens Marathon. From 2021 onwards, it will be easier to explore the city’s 129 neighborhoods and their dense urban fabric thanks to new, cool and green spaces offering a place to rest. The municipality is repairing its urban lungs with more trees and water fountains, nature-based solutions to restore the slopes of Mount Lycabettus, and the first “green corridors” to help move air through the streets. Athens is working to lower summer temperatures and maintain fresh public spaces during the whole year. The first five pocket parks have been created through the Adopt Your City programme, a framework for public-private partnerships that aims to speed-up the transformation of neglected properties to open much-needed neighbourhood spaces. The Athens Development and Destination Management Agency is the city’s tourism authority that is promoting new cultural pathways that go beyond the Acropolis. For example, the online platform “Athens is Back” features incentives for residents and
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visitors to explore shopping, culture, and food throughout the city. And the programme “This is Athens with a Local” connects visitors to a community of local volunteers offering free walks around their neighbourhoods.
Thomas Gravanis
More views of Athens will soon be on the big screen through the work of the Athens Film Office. Beginning in
2020, the AFO has leveraged economic incentives as well as the city’s urban and architectural landscape to bring more than 40 international film productions to Athens during the last year. These efforts support local employment by booking film crews and services, while also creating networking opportunities that will strengthen the position of Athenian filmmakers in the international market.
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2. Anc Athe
Visitors at the National Archaeological Museum.
Discover the city's glorious history
ncient hens
A N T I Q U I T I E S 2 .1
Archaeological Sites Athens in ruins
Athens is forever reinventing itself, which can prove confusing to visitors who arrive expecting to find a city defined by its ancient legacy. Instead, they see a conurbation that has sprawled from the antiquity at its core to fill the entire Attica basin, incorporating other ancient towns within its embrace. But this is the essence of the city’s charm: the unforced fusion of the past and an ever-evolving present. Metaphorically and literally, Athens is a city in layers. Few families have roots in Athens – most migrated to the city from mainland or island villages in successive waves since 1834, when Athens was declared the capital of Greece. These connections remain strong. Equally strong are the links to earlier settlers that stretch back millennia. Mycenaeans, Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans added their own layers to the city’s history and their traces are easily discernible among the Greek ruins and the contemporary city. It’s a heady mix that gives Athens a unique texture and depth.
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The Temple of Olympian Zeus.
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Archaeological Sites
The Acropolis The Acropolis defies description: it is after all what you’ve come to Athens to see. The very symbol of Western civilisation, the Parthenon makes you gasp when it comes into view, whether it's your first visit or your twenty-first. There’s much to take in, so arrive early – an especially good plan in summer as there’s little shade up on “the rock”. Acropolis’ was a general term used for citadels built on natural fortifications. But the Acropolis of Athens is unrivalled for the monuments produced by its glittering civilization: the Propylaea, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erectheion held aloft by its caryatids, and, of course, the Parthenon itself – the pinnacle of human perfection whose every measurement is based on the golden mean. +30 210 923 8747
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Ancient Agora Visitors look to the Acropolis as the centre of ancient Athens, but its heart was the Agora. This is where people met to trade goods and gossip, shop, be entertained, argue politics, or just hang out. It’s a large site, built in stages, and worth spending the time to explore. The wide path through the site is, in fact, ancient – a track for chariot races and processional road known as the Panathenaic Way that led to the Acropolis. Two buildings immediately pop: the Stoa of Attalos, marked by a 115-metre colonnade, and the impressive Temple of Hephaestus with sculpted marble friezes depicting the labours of Heracles and Theseus. Note a small mound in the middle of the temple: it’s where the British traveller John Tweddell was buried when the grounds were briefly used as a Protestant cemetery. Adrianou 24, Monastiraki 10555, +30 210 321 0185
Kerameikos Construction of modern Athens filled in and paved over the rivers coursing through the city since antiquity. One, the Eridanos, flowed from Lycabettus through the Agora into Kerameikos, where its banks provided the raw material for the ceramicists for which the area became known. Dry today, the Eridanos cuts a path through this sprawling archaeological site, forming a natural divide between the cities of the living and the dead. There’s a lot to see, including sections of the Themistoclean Walls and two of the ancient city’s gates. But it’s the necropolis that lures. Class and status carry into death, and it’s fun to note how decorations like a water jug over a burial mound signals the grave of a single man. The charming on-site museum is a trove of marvellous treasures excavated in both the ancient cemetery and ceramic studios. Ermou 148, Kerameikos 10553, +30 210 346 3552
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Archaeological Sites
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Panoramic view of the Temple of Hephaestos.
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Archaeological Sites
Temple of Olympian Zeus The largest temple in Greece stands as a monument to the Olympian god Zeus – but also to the age-old problem of construction delays. It took several generations and more than 600 years to complete as it was razed, restarted, and stalled several times. The 108m by 40m temple was initiated in the 6th century BC by the tyrant Peisistratos as a works project intended to suppress the population and was reviled for its link to successive tyrants. Relatively sparse, the expansive site makes for pleasant strolling in the city’s crowded centre. Natural disasters, attacks, and extensive quarrying stripped the temple through the centuries. Just 16 of its 104 columns remain – enough to imagine how it looked in all its glory. Vas. Olgas Avenue 10557, +30 210 922 6330
Theatre of Dionysus The stage has been silent for centuries and only sections of the orchestra remain, but this site drips enough drama to affirm its status as theatre’s birthplace. Slide into a marble throne in the front row –reserved for the priests of Dionysus and other dignitaries– and behold the action: a remarkably detailed marble frieze of Greek deities beneath the stage, which Heracles supports on his shoulders. This is where, in the 5th century BC, the Greek dramatists –Sophocles, Euripides, Aeschylus, Aristophanes, and others– competed in theatrical contests before some 15,000 spectators. The tradition continued into Roman times, both at this site and at the adjacent Odeon of Herodes Atticus, which is still used for performances today. Thrasyllou & Dionysiou Areopagitou, Acropolis 11742, +30 210 322 4625
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Roman Agora Under Roman rule, the city’s centre shifted to a new agora. It was more compact and more ordered, with public latrines (the Vespasianae) and other facilities. Located in the heart of Plaka, the site extends between the Gate of Athena Archegetis, a monumental arch built by Augustus Caesar, and the Horologion of Andronicus, a unique octagonal sundial, water clock, and weathervane. More popularly known as the Tower of the Winds for its frieze depicting the eight ancient Greek wind gods, it’s the first known attempt to build a weather station. In the Early Christian era, the tower was used as a church and in the 18th century as a Dervish monastery. Polignotou 3, Plaka 10555, +30 210 324 5220
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Archaeological Sites
Pnyx A low hill facing the Acropolis, the Pnyx was where the allmale Assembly of the Athenians was held, the bedrock of Greek democracy. This symbolism has carried into our times, with world leaders often choosing the site for speeches, in the tradition of the orations by Pericles and Demosthenes. The site may have been chosen for its sheltered plateau that forms a natural open-air auditorium. There are only scant remains of what was believed to be a sparse site, it’s only purpose being to hold a crowd – the Pnyx could pack in up to 10,000 people at a time. The speaker’s platform was slightly elevated, and you can still see the steps leading up to it carved into the rock. A series of small niches in its surface were made to hold votive offerings to Zeus. Pnyx Hill, Acropolis 11741
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Panathenaic Stadium The late-19th century stadium where the Olympic Games were revived in 1896 was laid over an ancient stadium whose horse-shoe shape later inspired the Emperor Hadrian to convert it into a racetrack. Locally it’s known as the Kallimarmaro, or “comely marble” stadium, for the Pendelic stone with which it was refurbished for the Games by a wealthy diaspora Greek. Today the Panathenaic Stadium is used for special concerts and ceremonies, including the finishing line of the Athens Classic Marathon. It can be admired from outside but there’s admittedly a thrill to be had from entering the stadium through the vaulted passage; if you don’t want to just imagine the roar of the crowd, bring along friends to cheer. Vas. Konstantinou, Mets 11635, +30 210 752 2984, panathenaicstadium.gr
Aristotle’s Lyceum Perhaps the city’s most underrated archaeological site, Aristotle’s Lyceum is charming in its simplicity and serenity. Despite being bordered on one side by the traffic-clogged Vassilisis Sofias avenue, the site is truly an urban oasis fragranced by lavender, oregano, thyme, and other wild herbs. Uncovered by chance during construction works, it was identified as one of the three schools of ancient Athens. Excavation brought to light baths, complete with steam pipes, and a training ring, or palaestra. The site recreates the spirit of Aristotle’s peripatetic teaching method, where he challenged students with questions of reason and logic while strolling the gardens. This mental training was complemented with sports, underscoring the Greeks’ belief that a healthy mind inhabits a healthy body. Rigillis 11, Anaktora 10675, +30 210 7251348
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Statue of a kore in the Acropolis Museum.
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ANTIQUITIES
2.2
Must-See Museums Historical highlights
The Greek capital’s 75+
Intro
museums attest to a rich cultural repository. These include institutions with world-famous exhibits (Acropolis Museum, anyone?), museums that tell the story of the city’s history, and niche collections that delight specialists in fields ranging from stamps and toys to cinema, technology, and crime. If you have limited time, you can pare down the list to the top two –the Acropolis Museum and the National Archaeological Museum– as these will bring context to other sights you visit. Use this guide to build your itinerary from there, choosing by interest or location. 37 LiFO
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Must-See Museums
National Archaeological Museum You could easily feel overwhelmed by the sheer scale of this unmissable museum – it contains more than 10,000 permanent exhibits, not counting temporary shows. Planning is essential to make the most of your visit. For a panorama of Greek history, sweep through the galleries in chronological order and aim to hit all the star artefacts: the kore and kouros, Poseidon, the jockey, Agamemnon’s mask, the frescoes from Akrotiri on Santorini. Alternately, focus on a specific collection or period: the Prehistoric Collection features Neolithic and Cycladic finds, breath-taking in their simplicity and clean lines. Comparing Archaic, Classical, and Hellenistic styles in the Sculpture Gallery is wonderfully reflective of the differences of those civilizations. An entertaining approach to Greek history is to unfold the narratives on vases, which depict surprising details of everyday life. Patission 44, 10682, +30 213 214 4800, namuseum.gr
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Acropolis Museum Even empty, this museum would be stupendous for its design; its collections elevate it to the sublime. Strolling the Archaic Gallery is like walking through a dream. But the pièce de resistance is the top-floor Parthenon Gallery, with the pediments and friezes positioned as they would appear on the monument, which is visible through the glass walls. Smaller treasures excavated all over the Acropolis are equally stunning in their detail, expression and facial features, such as the Calf-Bearer or Moschophorus, or the sheer oddity of a bronze Gorgon Medusa. Guided walks, lectures, and interactive kids’ activities help navigate this rich depository of ancient Greek culture. Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, Acropolis 11742, +30 210 900 0900, theacropolismuseum.gr
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Magnificent views from the Acropolis Museum.
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Must-See Museums
Museum of Cycladic Art Visitors are often befuddled by the clean lines of Cycladic art, which is refreshingly modern and minimalist compared to the ornate sculptures of Classical Greece. Aptly, the museum’s Bronze Age exhibits are housed in a sleek modern building, with temporary (and usually contemporary) shows held in a neoclassical annexe. The permanent collection spans 3000 BC to the 5th century. Lesser-known than their Minoan and Mycenaean peers, the Cycladic style is pared down, reflecting perhaps the starkness of the island terrain. Note the precision with which the marble is cut, in both the straight plank figures and the more rounded figurines. Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki 10674, +30 210 722 8321, cycladic.gr
Epigraphic Museum Much of what is known about ancient Greece comes from meticulous records kept of virtually everything – all expenditures for building the Parthenon, rules for worship on the Acropolis, or the strict legal code instituted under Draco, the first-ever written law. This collection, housed in a smaller offshoot of the National Archaeological Museum, is unique: there is no other such archive. The records are literally etched in stone (or marble), except for a few clay tablets and stamps. There’s also a small but haunting collection of 16th century funerary inscriptions in Hebrew and Latin from the medieval fortified town of Mystras. Tositsa 1, 10682, +30 210 823 2950, epigraphicmuseum.gr
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A cycladic figurine at the Museum of Cycladic Art.
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The impressive interiors of the Numismatic Museum.
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Numismatic Museum True to its name, this museum is a coin collector’s delight. But the Numismatic Museum isn’t for currency aficionados only. For one, there’s the building. The one-time residence of archaeologist and Troy excavator Heinrich Schliemann, the two-storey mansion was perhaps the most lavish residence after the royal palace. Its splendour is very much intact: floors with marble inlay designs, mosaics, and massive frescoes featuring scenes from the Trojan War. This wealth is a fitting backdrop for exhibiting money. Coins reveal history in a singular way, highlighting who and what was important enough to project power and status at any given moment. Panepistimiou 12, Syntagma 10671, +30 210 363 2057, nummus.gr
Culture Shots
Sightseeing in the summer heat can be an endurance test. Take a break at the museum’s in-house café. You could even skip the exhibits and simply delight in these unique retreats in the heart of Athens. The Museum of the City of Athens lends its 19th-century ambience, and some furnishings, to its bistro. A similar fin de siècle mood permeates the grounds of the Byzantine and Christian Museum and its outdoor café. The Numismatic Museum courtyard exudes the elegance of a European manor house, and the garden café seems kilometres from the traffic outside. And if you can’t keep your eyes off the Parthenon, the Acropolis Museum café and restaurant lets you feast on it a little longer.
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3 Art&D Ath
Still Life with Green Curtain (1982) by Fernando Bottero at the B&E Goulandris Foundation.
Aesthetic pleasures and design treasures
3 . D esign h ens
ART & DESIGN
3 .1
Unmissable Museums More than its shiny marble
Intro
surfaces and monuments, Athens is a city brimming with layers of history and contemporary culture. The city’s museums are rich with treasures that reach far beyond its ancient past. From neoclassical mansions housing Islamic art to modernist buildings filled with works by Greece’s most influential 20th-century painters, and minimalist landmarks that have hosted the likes of performance artist Marina Abramovic, these are spaces that evolve in tandem with the city itself. Besides Greek art and crafts, not to be missed are the city’s growing collections of international art. 48 SUMMER 2021
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National Museum of Contemporary Art.
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Unmissable Museums
National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST) The beer may have stopped flowing at this former brewery, but art connoisseurs will find plenty of refreshment. With its almost oppressively stark interiors and immersive, large-scale installations, EMST is the first serious attempt to give a global platform to contemporary Greek art. The collection has grown since EMST’s tentative beginnings in 2000, and today comprises 1,300 works of painting, sculpture, installation, film and mixed media by Greek (and some international) artists. Plagued by delays and false starts, EMST finally opened for real in 2020. The permanent collection is complemented by temporary exhibitions such as UBUNTU, a pan-African selection of contemporary art, featuring titans such as South African photographer and activist Zanele Muholi (until 22/8/21). Kallirrois and Amvrosio Frantzi, Koukaki, 117 43, +30 211 101 9000, emst.gr/en
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B & E Goulandris Foundation “To my dear Basil Goulandris, who loves all painting,” reads modernist painter Balthus’ dedication, scrawled across the back of the paint-splattered palette that he gifted to his patron. Nestled in the residential neighbourhood of Pangrati, this shiny new museum has become an art haven for locals and visitors alike. Late Greek shipping mogul Basil Goulandris and wife Elise’s private collection makes for one of the most important of the 20th century. When the museum opened its doors in 2019, it became Greece’s first large-scale collection of heavyweights from Picasso and Degas to Bacon and Pollock, to name a few. (Don’t miss van Gogh’s popular “Olive Pickers”; a second original hangs in New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art). After exploring the museum’s five floors, head to the café to enjoy a glass of homemade lemonade in the indoor oasis that spills out onto a lush terrace. Don’t forget to check the museum’s roster of live events and concerts. Eratosthenous 13, Pangrati 116 35, +30 21 0725 2895, goulandris.gr
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Unmissable Museums
Byzantine and Christian Museum It’s almost impossible to explore Athens without stumbling upon relics of its Byzantine past in one form or another: from Panagia Kapnikarea, one of the oldest churches in the city and the crowning jewel of the Monastiraki area, to countless other fresco-adorned chapels with their highriding domes poking out here and there. The Byzantine and Christian Museum is home to an unrivalled collection of over 25,000 icons, mosaics, manuscripts, and other artefacts, dating from the 3rd century AD. Save some time for a stroll through the museum’s grounds: a shady oasis of flowers, fruit trees, and fountains. There you’ll find three small outdoor permanent exhibitions, including “Paradise”, which beautifully unravels the Byzantine concept of the afterlife. Leof. Vasilissis Sofias 22, Kolonaki 106 75, +30 21 3213 9517, byzantinemuseum.gr
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Athens City Museum This museum is for anyone keen to dip into modern Greek history and culture. Originally set up to champion the development of the capital and the education of its people, the museum is housed in two historical buildings that once served as the residences of the rich and powerful: in the 19th century, the “Old Palace” was home to Greece’s first royal couple, King Otto and Queen Amalia, while the “New Building” is a two-storey residence designed by military engineer Gerasimos Metaxas. Spanning these buildings is a permanent collection with artefacts ranging from antiquity to the 21st century, including the first royal couple’s authentic cooking utensils. The replica of Amalia’s parlour, brimming with quaint personal objects and memorabilia, is an intimate portrait of the Queen’s life. Parnassou 2, Platia Klathmonos 105 61,
+30 21 0323 0168, athenscitymuseum.gr
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The Benaki Museum
Intro
Taking its name from one of the most important families of the Greek diaspora, The Benaki Museum is a city-wide “treasure hunt” for art lovers, with seven separate buildings scattered throughout Athens. Apart from the museums listed below, there’s the Yannis Pappas Studio in Zografou, which doubles as a workspace for students at the Athens School of Fine Arts. It provides an intimate view of the atelier of one of the most important 20th century Greek sculptors (see if you can spot blind bard Homer among the trees in the garden). Embroidery enthusiasts should head to Mentis Passementerie, a oncerenowned textiles factory turned museum. Visit the Benaki Museum’s website to check out the many temporary exhibitions on show across the city, and opt for the good-value combined ticket if you plan to museum-hop. benaki.org
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Pireos 138 In keeping with the minimalist design of its building, the exhibitions hosted within this museum’s pink brick walls are geared towards lovers of all things contemporary. Past highlights have included Jean-Paul Gaultier’s “Tribute to Greece” haute couture collection, a retrospective of the great 20th century painter Yiannis Moralis, and “AS ONE”: an ambitious six-week performance art project led by Marina Abramović. Drop by the museum gift shop to stock up on statement jewellery, handcrafted ceramics, and limited edition prints by Greek designers and artists. The glasswalled cafe is a great spot for soaking up sunlight after a wander around the museum’s three floors.
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Leonidas Kourgiantakis
Pireos 138, Gazi 118 54, +30 210 345 3111
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Museum of Islamic Art “This was the first dedicated museum of Islamic culture in both Europe and the Americas,” says Benaki Museum Director, George Manginis. Keep your eyes peeled during your visit – there’s artwork on every surface: the reception room’s dazzling marble floor came straight from a 17thcentury Cairo mansion. After feasting your eyes on jewellery, porcelain, and other finely wrought gems that span several continents and centuries, head up to the top floor café to marvel at the colourful floor-to-ceiling mural by Athensbased, British artist Navine G. Khan-Dossos. 22 Ag. Asomaton & 12 Dipilou, Kerameikos 105 53, +30 210 322 5550
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Museum of Greek Culture Situated opposite the National Garden and the Hellenic Parliament, this neoclassical-style building is almost as much of a local institution. The permanent collection features everything from prehistoric plaques and ancient amulets to Byzantine icons, traditional costumes, mementos of the Greek War of Revolution, and everything in between. A mustsee for history buffs and folk art enthusiasts alike. Koumpari 1, Kolonaki 106 74, +30 210 367 1000
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Ghika Gallery The former residence of 20th-century painter Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, the Ghika Gallery also houses the work of other prominent artists of the so-called “1930s Generation” – the artists, writers, and intellectuals who introduced the modernist movement to Greece. Among them are painters Yannis Tsarouchis and Yiannis Moralis, as well as Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas himself, whose art is also displayed in London’s Tate Gallery and the Musée d’art Moderne in Paris. After making a stop to take in poets Giorgos Seferis and Odysseas Elytis’ framed Nobel Prizes for Literature, head up to the top floor where you’ll find the reconstructed atelier of Ghikas himself. “The permanent exhibition spans five floors and is made up of Greece’s entire artistic output for the majority of the 20th century,” says Constantinos Papachristou, the gallery’s curator. Make sure you visit when you’ve got plenty of time to spare. Kriezotou 3, Syntagma 106 71, +30 210 361 5702
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Toy Museum From wicker and porcelain dolls to board games and marbles, the Toy Museum is filled with antique childhood treasures from around the globe that put modern day children’s entertainment into historical perspective. “This sensory experience may use simple (but artful) materials and low-tech solutions, but is no less inventive than today’s toys. It engages the viewers in ways that are ancient and yet feel novel in the twenty-first century,” says George Manginis, the director of the Benaki Museum. If you’re travelling with children, an adventure among the playthings of centuries gone by may be just the thing to knock a few hours off their screen time. 14 Poseidonos & 1 Tritonos, Palaio Faliro 175 61, +30 212 687 5280
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Cultural Powerhouses The performing arts have
Intro
always played a central role in the cultural –and political– life of Athens. The marble theatre of Dionysus, on the slopes of the Acropolis, was as vital to ancient Athenian society as the surrounding temples and citizen’s assemblies. Today, modern cultural landmarks and historic venues continue to inspire with an ever-changing line-up of theatre, dance, and live music.
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Greek National Opera
Yiorgis Yerolympos
Masterfully designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano, the Greek National Opera’s (GNO) main stage is in some ways an homage to operatic traditions. The signature cherry red colour-scheme evokes the classical opera house. But there’s no red velvet or gilded chandelier in sight – instead, a kinetic sculpture by Japanese artist Susumu Shingu is suspended from the ceiling. Indeed, the GNO is anything but a conservative institution. Recent performances include Alban Berg’s avant-garde opera “Wozzeck”, and Patari Project’s environmentally conscious spin on Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons” at the smaller Alternative Stage. The acoustics are pitch-perfect, and the seating (five seat types of three different heights and inclinations in the main hall) has been painstakingly designed for streamlined sightlines no matter how cheap your seats. (Even the most expensive tickets are a steal by European and American standards). 364 Syngrou Avenue, Kallithea, 176 74, +30 216 809 1000, nationalopera.gr
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Cultural Powerhouses
Onassis Stegi. Photo by Stelios Tzetzias
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Cultural Powerhouses
Stelios Tzetzias
Onassis Stegi Stegi (literally “roof”) hosts a fearless, thought-provoking and always fascinating arts programme that bridges disciplines and champions the marginalised, the experimental and the up-andcoming. Sure, you might catch the world premiere of the latest work by Dimitris Papaioannou or Akram Khan (their dance game is especially strong). But you’re just as likely to stumble on a queer film festival, an exhibition exploring digital technology, or a symposium on migration. Stegi is part of the Onassis Foundation, which also offers workshops and scholarships for young Greek creatives to develop their craft. Check out their online radio station, Movement Radio (movement.radio) for equally eclectic podcasts, DJ sets, and boundary-bending music. 107-109 Syngrou Avenue, Neos Kosmos 117 45, +30 210 900 5800, onassis.org
Odeon of Herodes Atticus Better known as the “Herodion”, this ancient amphitheatre, hollowed out of the southern slopes of the Acropolis, is anything but antiquated; it remains active as ever, still fulfilling its purpose millenia after its construction. As the main venue of the annual Athens Epidaurus Festival (aefestival.gr), which takes place from June through August, this marble monument has staged modern takes on Greek tragedy and Shakespeare (including Oscar-winning director Sam Mendes’ “Richard III”), as well as concerts by the likes of Florence and The Machine and Foo Fighters. During the summer, the Greek National Opera occasionally takes over the Herodion, too – a theatrical experience like no other. Be sure to book tickets in advance, as they sell out fast. Dionysiou Areopagitou, Acropolis 105 55, +30 210 92 82 900, aefestival.gr
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National Library of Greece In 2018, the National Library relocated from its neoclassical home in downtown Athens to the shiny new Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre. “There’s something incredibly positive about such an important institution being housed under a modern roof,” says filmmaker Elias Giannakakis who, over the course of four years, documented the complex relocation process in his film, “Transfer”. The Library contains over one million books, magazines and manuscripts, including Greece’s oldest-ever printed books. Renzo Piano’s spectacular glass-walled, green-roofed space includes a lending library for the first time. It’s also an excellent place to bring your laptop if you need a quiet –and inspiring– place to work for a few hours.
Yiorgis Yerolympos
364 Syngrou Avenue, Kallithea, 176 74, +30 216 809 1000, snfcc.org/en/national-library-greece
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Cultural Powerhouses
Technopolis The industrial complex of Technopolis used to be the Athens gasworks (which is why the area is called Gazi). The giant machines that once generated light and power for the city are intact in the Industrial Gas Museum, which is great fun for families. Most locals come to Technopolis for the festivals (from jazz to science), temporary exhibitions (from Banksy to Greek industrial design) and regular craft markets. Vibrant and offbeat, it’s one of the capital’s largest and liveliest cultural centres. Technopolis, 100 Pireos, Gazi 118 54, +30 210 346 1589, athens-technopolis.gr
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Athens Conservatoire Housed in one of Athens’ most distinctive Bauhaus buildings, the Conservatoire was designed by modernist architect Ioannis Despotopoulos – the only Greek to have studied under Walter Gropius. This institution takes credit for the musical education of legendary alumni like soprano Maria Callas, pianist Gina Bachauer, and composer Mikis Theodorakis. Constantly expanding into new areas, the Conservatoire recently joined forces with Goldsmiths, University of London, to launch a Bachelor of Music programme in 2021. It’s also an occasional venue for contemporary art exhibitions (the prestigious “documenta 14” was hosted here in 2017) and concerts, featuring international personalities like two-time Oscar-winning composer Alexandre Desplat. Rigillis & 17-19 Vasileos Georgiou B, Pangrati 106 75, +30 210 724 0673, athensconservatoire.gr
Megaron Widely regarded as one of the most impressive venues of its kind, the Athens Concert Hall’s imposing premises on Vassilissis Sofias Avenue are impossible to miss. Christmas at the Megaron sees festive classics like “The Magic Flute” take the stage. During the summer, the lush garden at the rear is a moonlit stage for concerts (think gypsy jazz, Caribbean soul, Greek folk and everything in between). The Megaron’s garden is open to visitors year-round; it’s particularly pretty in spring, when the ornamental plum tree, Japanese quince and forsythia come into bloom. The tunnel-shaped gift shop stocks cool souvenirs made from recycled materials. 115 Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, Ambelokipi 115 21, +30 210 722 82714, megaron.gr
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Gallery Districts Beyond Athens’ blockbuster museums and mainstream galleries lies a world of smaller, artist-run spaces that have converged around affordable neighbourhoods like Kypseli, Metaxourgeio and Piraeus. Whether you’re a curator scouting for talent, a visiting artist, or simply looking to tap into the city’s zeitgeist, a wander around these gallery districts will give you a sense of the current Athenian art scene. Intro
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Rodeo Gallery.
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Gallery Districts
Kypseli
Inclusive community spirit “There’s a raw, unrefined quality to Kypseli,” says sculptor Augustus Veinoglou, the founder and director of Snehta, a non-profit art organisation that supports local and international artists through its gallery and residency programme. “Traces of the past still hang in the air, but there’s also a sense that something brand new can emerge at any moment.” Kypseli is a melting pot of ethnicities and a mosaic of architectural styles that appeals to curious creatives. The area’s Bauhaus and Art Deco buildings are testament to its status as a focal point of urban development in the 1930s. As its affluent residents moved to the suburbs, Kypseli evolved into an inner-city enclave for immigrants from Africa and the Balkans. Now young artists from all over the world are moving in and local galleries are multiplying. On pedestrian Fokionos Negri, Kypseli’s 24-hour meeting point, Blank Wall Gallery focuses on contemporary photography. At number 16 Fokionos Negri, the Sotiris Felios Collection focuses on Greek figurative art, but the space hosts regular talks, screenings and live performances. Bhive is an experimental space run by an artist collective. snehtaresidency.org blankwallgallery.com felioscollection.gr mumsocialclub.com
Local artists and their muses congregate at the cafes and tavernas on circular St George Square, or at Mum Social Club, a monthly pottery, book and food club hosted by Stamatia Dimitrakopoulos, artistic director of the city’s biggest contemporary art fair, Art Athina.
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Piraeus
Port-side post-industrial vibes The port of Piraeus is one of the busiest (and grubbiest) in Europe. Incongruously situated among the thrum and thrust of tradesmen and dock workers are three contemporary art spaces with international clout. All three are clustered on Polidefkous street, which is still populated predominantly by industrial workshops. The high-ceilings, timber roofs and stone walls of these former warehouses and workshops are as much of an attraction as the cutting-edge exhibits. Rodeo, the first gallery to open on Polydefkous in 2018, was previously located in London and Istanbul. A penchant for mixed media and diverse backgrounds characterise Rodeo’s roll call of artists, who often create site-specific works. “Through Rodeo I got to see a different side of Piraeus, which eventually led to me opening The Intermission,” says Artemis Baltoyannis, an art advisor and now a gallerist. “You can’t get these types of industrial buildings in the centre of Athens.” rodeo-gallery.com theintermission.art carwangallery.com
Carwan Gallery, dedicated to championing the work of international designers, from Italian Roberto Sironi to Korean Jeonghwa Seo, recently touched down in Piraeus from Lebanon. “Our former space in Beirut was also by the port, bearing a strong resemblance to the DNA of Piraeus,” says co-founder Nicolas Bellavance-Lecompte. “We feel at home here.” On opening nights, all the galleries stay open late and patrons mingle at the outdoor tables of the wine bar next door.
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Gallery Districts
Metaxourgeio Sex and the city
Metaxourgeio takes its name (meaning “silk mill”), from a 19th century scarf factory. Located on Avdi Square, the area’s de facto meeting place, today it’s the Athens Municipal Art Gallery and hosts exhibitions by local artists. A working class area through and through, Metaxourgeio attracts young artists in pursuit of affordable studio and living space. Concrete lofts, turn of the 20th century townhouses, and crumbling cottages are jumbled alongside “studios” of a different nature – the brothels clustered on and around Iasonos Street. thebreedersystem.com rebeccacamhi.com
Housed in a masterfully renovated ice-cream factory from the 1970s, The Breeder is arguably the neighbourhood’s most notable gallery. Sealed behind massive metal doors, the stark white spaces offer a dramatic canvas for highly conceptual and often challenging work. Located in a neoclassical townhouse that doubles as the gallerist’s home, the Rebecca Camhi Gallery is equally influential; photographers Nan Goldin and Nobuyoshi Araki and artist Konstantin Kakanias are long-time collaborators. “At the moment a lot of artists from all over the world are moving their studios or opening project spaces here,” say Breeder co-founders Stathis Panagoulis and George Vamvakidis. “Metaxourgeio’s extensive empty spaces and numerous red light establishments make the area feel like it’s forgotten in another era.”
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Kolonaki
Hey big spender
Cementing Athens’ arrival as an international art destination, the Gagosian gallery opened an extravagant outpost in Kolonaki in 2020. American multimedia artist Sterling Ruby’s current paintings and ceramics exhibition (on show until July 31, 2021) is one example of the global heavyweights gracing the neoclassical space. This ritzy neighbourhood in the foothills of Mount Lycabettus has long been a magnet gagosian.com zoumboulakis.gr nitragallery.com kalfayangalleries.com tseliougallery.com
for serious collectors with deep pockets. Kolonaki is home to over 20 galleries, all within walking distance of each other. The Zoumboulakis Gallery on Kolonaki Square is a local institution; it represents some of Greece’s most renowned artists, such as the late Takis and Chryssa. Nitra and Kalfayan’s Athens outposts (they both have counterparts in Thessaloniki) have introduced both established and emerging artists like Maria Loizidou and Antonis Donef to the neighbourhood. For an edgier experience, check out Eleftheria Tseliou’s under-the-radar gallery, located in an unmarked apartment at 3 Iraklitou street.
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Architecture Intro
From classical temples to closely-packed concrete apartment blocks, the architecture of Athens is as unpredictable and untidy as the city itself. Byzantine chapels, neoclassical mansions, repurposed industrial buildings and boxy Bauhaus flats co-exist in a kind of discordant harmony. Like a trail of breadcrumbs, Athens leaves traces of its evolution in its patchwork of architectural forms.
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Anafiotika.
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Architecture
Anafiotika
Island anachronism Big city buzz melts away as you enter the narrow alleys of Anafiotika, a Cycladic village clinging to the rocky north slope of the Acropolis. Built by workmen from the island of Anafi, who settled in Athens in the 19th century to help build the modern capital, these white-washed stone dwellings were designed as a little piece of home. This tiny neighbourhood is also home to several notable Byzantine churches. Agios Symeon (on Theorias street) is a singlenaved, barrel-vaulted structure that was built as a replica of its namesake church in Anafi.
Fethiye Mosque Ottoman influencer
This mosque was built from the ruins of a Byzantine basilica soon after Athens was occupied by the Ottoman Empire. Its location opposite the Roman Agora is far from random: this was to be the “Mosque of the Conquest”, designed to project the new rulers’ power and influence. One of the few surviving remnants of the Ottoman occupation, it features a characteristic red tiled dome and a porch supported by five arches crowned with smaller domes. During the brief Venetian occupation of the city in the 17th century, it was converted into a Catholic church. Eventually restored and reopened to the public as an exhibition space, the building is a testament to the religious tides and power struggles that have marked Athens through the ages. Panos and Pelopida, Monastiraki 105 55
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The Athens Hilton Modern love
Completed in 1963, during Greece’s post-war economic boom and the country’s “golden age” of tourism, this curved landmark stands for far more than a hotel chain. The 15-storey building combines both Classical elements, like white Pentelic marble, and traces of modernism. A bold combination at the time of its construction, the building and its four architects (the prolific quartet of Vourekas, Vasileiadis, Georgiades and Staikos) were initially met with controversy. Today, it stands as a timeless emblem of the mid-century modernist movement in Athens. You can’t miss the monumental reliefs gracing the hotel’s façade, designed and executed by Greek artist Yiannis Moralis, featuring symbols from Ancient Greece. Vasilissis Sofias 46, Ilissia 115 28, +30 2107281000, hilton.com
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Architecture
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre (SNFCC) Twenty-first century landmark
Its name may be cumbersome, but the SNFCC’s streamlined design is anything but. Dreamt up by starchitect Renzo Piano (the mastermind behind the Pompidou in Paris and the Shard in London), this vast cultural and recreational complex is not only beautiful and user-friendly. It’s also a pioneer of sustainable design. The massive Canopy suspended over the Lighthouse –a lookout on the roof of the National Opera house– is covered in 5,700 solar panels that contribute to the building’s energy needs. Despite giving the impression of a sail or ship floating into the sea, the Canopy actually weighs around 4,500 tons. Leoforos Andrea Siggrou 364, Kallithea 176 74, +30 2168091000, snfcc.org
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National Gallery State-of-the-art glasshouse
Originally built in the rationalist International Style in the ‘60s and ‘70s by a team of Greek architects, the National Gallery’s long overdue refurb took eight years to complete. Its latest glossy, glass-clad incarnation (the external ramps and see-through facade vaguely reminiscent of the Pompidou Centre) reopened in spring 2021, joining the ranks of other recently opened cultural powerhouses, like the B&E Goulandris Foundation and the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center. Vasileos Konstantinou 50, Pangrati 115 28, +30 214 408 6212, nationalgallery.gr/en
Tobacco Factory Art portal
Funded by non-profit NEON Arts Foundation, the disused Public Tobacco Factory in Kolonos has been transformed into 6,500 square metres of white-washed exhibition space. The building, which once housed 25 different tobacco companies, is defined by a vast glass and metal covered atrium – a bold feature at the time of its construction in the early 20th century. The skylit hall shines a spotlight on largescale contemporary art by the likes of El Anatsui, Danh Võ, and Cornelia Parker. 218 Lenorman, Kolonos 104 43, neon.org.gr/en/exhibition/portals
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Five Unusual Museums In Athens From puppet theatre to pinball machines, Athens has museums dedicated to all kinds of niche interests. These are five of our current favourites. Intro
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Five Unusual Museums
Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Just off popular promenade Dionysiou Areopagitou, this Athenian townhouse is the former residence of Greek jewellery designer Ilias Lalaounis. Worn by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Charlize Theron, here you’ll learn not just the history but the craft behind Lalaounis’ creations too. On display are some of the brand’s most celebrated pieces – 50 collections in total, inspired by historical treasure ranging from Priam to Byzantium. The museum occasionally hosts temporary exhibitions, such as a showcase of sustainable jewellery designer Debra Rapoport’s eccentric creations. Don’t miss the ground floor workshop; if you’re lucky you might catch a glimpse of the resident goldsmith at work. Kallisperi 12 & Karyatidon, Acropolis 117 42, +30 210-9221044, lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr
Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology Lesser known than the undeniable contributions of ancient Greeks to the fields of philosophy, science, and art, are their contributions to technology. The Kotsanas Museum’s permanent collection brings together over 300 reconstructed inventions, devised as far back as 2000 BC. From the first robot invented by humans (it served wine!), to the Antikythera mechanism (the world’s first computer), the models at the museum are sure to get you thinking about the parallels between ancient technology and today’s developments in automation, telecommunications, cryptography, and cartography. An entertaining pitstop for kids tired of traipsing around ancient ruins. Pindarou 6, Kolonaki 106 71, +30 21 1411 0044, kotsanas.com
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Katakouzenos House Entering this historic house is like stepping into the lives of its previous occupants, the 20th century psychiatrist Angelos Katakouzenos and his wife, writer Leto Katakouzenou. The space is reminiscent of the Freud Museum in London; after Angelos’ death in 1982, Leto did for her husband what Anna Freud did for her father: “They dedicated their lives to their memory by retaining in their houses the same atmosphere as when they were alive,” says the museum’s curator Sophia PeloponnissiouVassilacos. “Our visitors often say it’s like a home, not an institution.” The Katakouzenos house is full of tokens of appreciation gifted by the couple’s circle of prominent friends (these included George Seferis, William Faulkner, Henri Cartier-Bresson and Albert Camus). Mahogany doors are custom-painted by their close friend, Nikos Hatzikyriakos-Ghikas, and family photographs are displayed alongside sixty paintings by the likes of Marc Chagall. The bookshelves sag under a hefty collection of books on psychiatry, art and archaeology. The typewriter Leto used to author her own books seems poised for action. Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias 4, Syntagma 105 57, +30 21 0322 2144, katakouzenos.gr
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Five Unusual Museums
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The Katakouzenos House.
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Five Unusual Museums
Ai Stratis Political Exiles Museum
This museum lays bare two of the darkest chapters in Greek history: the 1940s Civil War and the military Junta of the 1960s and ‘70s. Named after Ai Stratis, an island that housed left-leaning political prisoners in exile, the museum contains dozens of artefacts that are both unmissable and yet not for the faint-hearted: a bridal gown belonging to a young woman who was executed before she got the chance to wear it makes for an especially harrowing sight. Also exhibited are stones and paper boxes engraved and illustrated by poet Yiannis Ritsos during his time as a political prisoner on Ai Stratis. A somber exploration of what happens when we lose sight of democracy. 31 Agion Asomaton, Psyri, 105 53, +30 210-3213488, exile-museum.gr
Bathhouse of the Winds, Plaka As the capital’s only public bath building still standing, this well-preserved 17th century Turkish bath (or hammam) is a reminder of Greece’s Ottoman past. Although it no longer fulfills its original purpose, the Bathhouse of the Winds (which falls under the umbrella of the newly renovated Museum of Modern Greek Culture) is now a museum and exhibition space dedicated to the art of bodily cleanliness. With its striking marble interior and characteristically Ottoman design, the architecture alone makes it worth the detour. Kirristou 8, Plaka 105 56, +30 21 0324 5957, mnep.gr
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Speak Athenian
Most Athenians speak excellent English (and plenty of other languages too). But these handy phrases will help you feel more like a local. Ένα φρέντο εσπρέσο σκέτο, παρακαλώ. Ena freddo espresso sketo, parakalo
An iced espresso, no sugar, please. Πάμε για μπάνιο; Pame gia banio?
Should we go for a swim? Έχει φοβερή κίνηση. Exei foveri kinisi.
The traffic is terrible. Θα αργήσω λιγάκι. Tha argiso ligaki.
I’m going to be a little late. Ένα κιλό παϊδάκια και μισό κιλό κρασί, παρακαλώ. Ena kilo paidakia kai miso kilo krasi, parakalo.
A kilo of lamb chops and half a litre of house wine, please. Άσπρο πάτο! Aspro pato!
Bottoms up! Εγώ κερνάω. Ego kernao.
It’s on me, my treat. Έχει περίπτερο εδώ κοντά; Exei periptero edo konda?
Is there a kiosk anywhere round here? Τα λέμε. Ta leme.
Speak soon. Γεια χαρά. Geia hara.
See you, be well.
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The Art Galleries of the City of Athens Iconic spaces hosting artistic creations.
The Art Galleries of the City of Athens tell their own story, as their iconic buildings are connected with the city’s past. The Municipal Gallery in Metaxourgeio is housed in one of the oldest neoclassical buildings in Athens, the work of Danish architect Christian Hansen. Until 1875 it operated as a silk factory, giving the neighbourhood its name (Metaxourgeio literally means silk mill in Greek). Restoration works on the building began in 2007, so that it could host cultural events. Its operation as a gallery began in 2010, hosting the permanent collection in one room and temporary exhibitions in the other.
Municipal Gallery of Metaxourgeio Leonidou and Myllerou Str., Metaxourgeio, 210 3243022.
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The building of the Old Gallery in Koumoundourou Square, is the work of architect Panagiotis Kalkos, which was completed in 1875 and operated as an orphanage until 1977. It is a typical example of an entire architectural concept that governs neoclassical buildings in the public and urban space from the founding of the Greek state to the first decades of our century. In 1923 the City of Athens began to organize the collection with the first purchase of the sculpture of D. Filippotis “The Fisherman”. Today the Old Municipal Gallery houses more than 3,000 paintings, engravings and sculptures. Most of them were acquired between 1930 and 1940, while most important Greek artists of the 20th century are represented in its collection. The collection also includes remarkable works of the great masters of engraving but also of the artists who were inspired by them and continue their creation until today.
Koumoundourou Sq. Gallery
51 Piraeus Str., Koumoundourou Sq., 210 5202420, 210 3243023.
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4. Se Ath Sleeping Female Figure (1877), by Yannoulis Chalepas, at the Tomb of Sofia Afentaki, First Cemetery of Athens.
Uncover lesser known landmarks
cret ens
S E C R E T AT H E N S 4 .0 Intro
Athens invites exploration. Visitors who think it’s enough to hit the highlights before hopping a ferry to the islands are missing the essence of the experience: discovery and serendipity. In Athens, myths and mysteries lurk around almost every corner: a network of arcades that recall the covered galleries of Paris, but are actually a modern adaptation of the ancient stoa; catacombs beneath a Byzantine church’s belltower; ancient city walls in an underground car park. “Historically, socially, and architecturally, it’s a city with multiple layers”, says Tina Kyriakis, founder of tours and experiences company Alternative Athens. “In order to understand it, you need to put the pieces together. That’s no easy task: you need historical knowledge, of course, but also a special eye.” One of her favourite “secret” spots is in the basement of Zara on Stadiou street, where you can see Roman tombs behind a glass wall in the children’s clothing section. The steel and concrete of modern Athens rises above “a mishmash of ancient Greek and Roman ruins, Byzantine churches, stately neoclassical edifices, Ottoman-era meandering alleys, makeshift settlements and grey apartment buildings”, notes Yannis Zaras, founder of hospitality and events company Big Olive. The Greek capital today has evolved into a very different city than the one envisioned by its 19thcentury planners. “Athens is built on the dreams, hopes, and aspirations of its newcomers. It is exactly this character of the Greek capital –always a work-in-progress, never really finished and hard to decipher– that makes it a place full of stories and secrets.” The pastiche of architectural styles reflects the social and cultural influences that shaped the city you see today. Some are clustered in neighbourhoods that emerged as the city grew; most are interspersed. Nikos Vatopoulos, culture editor of the Athens daily “Kathimerini” and author of “Walking in Athens”, cites an area a short distance from the National Archaeological Museum. “If you walk along Patission street you might notice two cross streets that are different. Around 1950-53, Efpalinou and Karamanlaki streets experimented with a new kind of apartment building with small gardens in front. Some 70 years later, these streets echo a vintage mid-century modernism with lush Athenian vegetation.” But you don’t have to venture far off the beaten tourist track to uncover the city’s secrets. Even touristy Plaka and Monastiraki have hidden delights to reveal. Just look around.
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Interiors at the Queen's Tower.
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Secret Athens
Agia Dynami The city’s layered history is stacked in this architectural oddity: a tiny 16th-century church sheltered under the support columns of a hotel. The church (located on the corner of Mitropoleos and Pendelis streets, near Syntagma) pre-dates the hotel (the building formerly housed the Ministry of Education), but it too is built over another structure: an ancient altar dedicated to Heracles. The church also links to the tunnel network under the city, which was used to smuggle weapons during the Greek War of Independence, 200 years ago.
The Queen’s Tower A suburban park is hardly a secret, but this one’s status as an urban wildlife refuge isn’t widely known. The extensive grounds of the Antonis Tritsis Park in Ilion also enclose a fairytale castle – a small retreat built in 1848 for Queen Amalia, wife of Greece’s first post-independence monarch Othon, who rode here from the palace every day. Arched windows, ramparts, and polygonal towers conjure the style of the palaces in the young monarch’s native Bavaria. Amalia’s fondness for horticulture is her legacy to Athens: in addition to the National Garden, she also created a small farm here. Today, visitors can book tours to the organic vineyard, the stables with Arabian horses as in Amalia’s day, and the meticulously restored tower with the eye-catching geometric parquet flooring, antique furniture, and trompe l’oeil-style ceilings.
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Vorres Museum Paiania, a suburban municipality 11 km from downtown Athens, is (little) known as the birthplace of Demosthenes, as well as for its vineyard and olive cultivation, and its proximity to Athens airport. Few Athenians know it as home of one of the most exquisite collections of contemporary Greek art, the private collection of late philanthropist and biographer Ian Vorres (vorresmuseum.gr). The museum compound comprises a restored 19th-century mansion and stables on an 80-acre estate. Its 6,000 holdings are an eclectic mix of contemporary and modern art, folk artefacts, farm tools, icons, and even an anchorage stone used by Greek warships in the Battle of Salamis in 480 BC. In a hat tip to the rural setting, the grounds include a Mediterranean garden with endemic plants matched to the local environment – a lovely setting for the museum café.
First Cemetery of Athens The city’s past is literally buried here. This serene enclave in Mets is a burial ground for prominent Athenian families. But many graves are also markers of history, the resting place of eminent Greeks from politics, business, and the arts like Melina Mercouri and George Seferis – even Heinrich Schleimann. Often described as an openair sculpture park, the cemetery is testament to the skills of Greek marble craftsmen – from mausolea that mimic miniature temples to bas relief scenes and monumental stele reminiscent of those in the ancient cemetery of Kerameikos. Although Greeks are overwhelmingly Orthodox, the First Cemetery also has Protestant, Catholic, and Jewish quarters. Don’t be misled by sphinxes and other Egyptian symbols: these mark the graves of the wealthy diaspora Greeks from Alexandria.
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Secret Athens
Stoa Emporon The “stoa” or covered arcade of ancient Greek architecture is also a feature of the modern city, although today’s passages are completely covered and run beneath office buildings. Incorporated in the design for modern Athens by Bavarian and other Northern planners accustomed to their own cold, rainy climates, there’s a maze of these arcades in the city centre. They offer pedestrians shortcuts to the next block and house an astonishing range of small businesses, from printers and rubber-stamp makers to milliners, stamp traders, and cobblers. Situated between Voulis and Lekka streets, the aptly-named Stoa Emporon, or Merchants’ Arcade, is illuminated by a Technicolour neon glow from vintage signs collected from around Athens, restored, and hung from the arcade ceiling. Nearby, Stoa Tositsa is one of the smaller arcades, but with greater architectural interest: a glass dome, interior windows and balcony-style corridors. The building originally housed a hive of dressmakers’ studios and the seamstresses passed time chatting through the windows. Keep an eye out for these covered streets and don’t hesitate to pop down one: who knows what you’ll discover. Most arcades, of course, have a kafeneion tucked inside – a stark contrast with today’s pavement-café culture and a taste of the traditional coffeehouse.
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Catacombs of Athens Hidden beneath the city is an extensive network of tunnels dating back millennia, which proved very useful to Nazi resistance fighters during the second world war. “It’s exciting to think that there’s a parallel universe just a few metres underground”, says Yiannis Zaras of Big Olive. “The catacombs of Athens are a web of ancient galleries and labyrinthine passages connecting the Acropolis, Parliament, and even, reportedly, go as far as Piraeus port.” The only section accessible to the public is under the Agia Triada Russian Orthodox church (Souri & Filellinon 21, +30 210 323 1090). Built in the 11th century, it is the largest preserved Byzantine church in Athens, with unique exterior brickwork, frescoes by 19th-century German painter Ludwig Thiersch, and icons brought by refugees fleeing the 1917 Russian Revolution. Entry to the catacombs is by prior arrangement with the priest (usually after Sunday services).
The Durenne bronze Exarchia is an Athens neighbourhood that’s often the focus of attention, usually for all the wrong reasons (anarchists, petty crime, drug dealers). Yet a remarkable local landmark goes unnoticed: a bronze mid-19th-century lamp post featuring three life-size cherubs stands in the middle of its main square. Made in Paris at a small foundry owned by French sculptor Antoine Durenne, the lamp is similar, but less ornate, than those commissioned for the French capital’s Pont Alexandre III. Another bronze from the same foundry (but with four cherubs) adorns Agios Georgios square in nearby Kypseli. Both are by Albert-Ernest Carrier de Belleuse. Their backstory is unclear, but by one account they originally flanked the Municipal Theatre which was razed in 1940.
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5. Ou Ath
When you need to catch a breath, there’s a simple solution: climb
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O U T D O O R AT H E N S
5 .1
Peak Performance The hills of Athens
Intro
Densely populated and tightly packed, Athens is not a city of lush parks, wide boulevards, and open spaces. Navigating potholed pavements and rule-defying motorists can be challenging. When you need to catch a breath, there’s a simple solution: climb. High above street level, the forested hills offer a clearer perspective of this chaotic metropolis. They say Athens is the city of seven hills. But there are at least a dozen hills within the city limits, if you count the smaller outcrops poking above the urban fray. “The geological transformation of the Athenian plane over thousands of years has left these little hills, like islands sticking out of the sea,” explains Thomas Doxiadis, head of the landscape architecture practice doxiadis+. “These ‘islands’ have the same relationship to the city as the Aegean islands have to the sea: they rise abruptly and create brilliant platforms to overlook what lies below.”
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Peak Performance
The Rock: Areopagus The first hill of note is, of course, the magnificent Acropolis. For a similar vantage point without the entry fee, climb the steps carved into the Areopagus, just below the main entrance to the Parthenon. The short scramble up this massive rock rewards with a vista as spectacular as its surface is dull. The “Hill of Ares”, an outcrop of the Acropolis shelf, is the perfect standpoint for surveying the city, which in antiquity expanded at its feet and today stretches from the sea to the mountains cupping the Attic basin. The view is especially lovely at dawn and dusk. Paul stood here to deliver his address to the Athenians, and in mythology the site was the court where the gods tried murderers. Some of that tradition survives to this day: the Areios Pagus, from the ancient Greek, is the name of the Supreme Court.
The Muse: Filopappou At the summit of Filopappou Hill (also poetically known as the Hill of the Muses) is the well-preserved shard of a tomb: the 2nd century BC Monument of Filopappos, who was a respected benefactor from what is now Syria. Filopappou is a pilgrimage site for Athenians at sunset, with the Acropolis centre stage and widescreen vistas stretching all the way across the Saronic Gulf. One of the biggest and most tranquil green spaces in Athens, Filopappou’s meandering footpaths were laid out by architect Dimitris Pikionis in the 1950s, using stones and marble salvaged from local buildings. The stern rock walls of the Pnyx stare down over the place where democracy was born, while the National Observatory’s silver dome contains
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an antique telescope where you can go star-gazing on winter nights. “I walk around Filopappou almost every day,” says Thomas Doxiadis. “You’ll stumble across things that people walked on two or three thousand years ago. It’s crazy to have an ancient piece of rock peppered with antiquities in the middle of your everyday city walk.”
The Landmark: Lycabettus
Christos Tolis
The highest point in Athens, Mount Lycabettus would have made an even more strategic location for the Parthenon. However, the ancient Athenians realised that the springs on the Acropolis hill could sustain them through sieges – and the rest, as they say, is history. There may be no temple atop Lycabettus, but the Orthodox church of Agios Georgios (and the lesser known chapel of Agios Isidoros, half-way up the hill) makes for a pretty great vantage point. Take the funicular railway from Aristippou Street to the top (kids love it) or wander up through the pine, carob, and cypress woods, much loved by local runners and dog-walkers. An old stone quarry is now occupied by an open-air theatre – a modernist landmark whose red, yellow and white seats fan out in a cheerful radius. The theatre is being restored after a long hiatus and should reopen in 2022.
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Peak Performance
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Exrcising on Ardittos Hill
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Peak Performance
The Outlier: Strefi Strefi is Lycabettus’ grittier little sister. Every evening, a diverse young crowd climbs up to the rocky outcrop crowning Strefi to drink and smoke as they watch the sun set over the city. Cultural and community events, from live rembetiko nights to neighbourhood assemblies, occasionally take place on this scruffy little hill in Exarchia. (Another popular gathering place is the stairway that leads up to Strefi from Kallidromiou Street, emblazoned with the logo of Asteras Exarchion, Athens’ anti-fascist football team.) “Strefi Hill is one of the smallest in Athens but has this really interesting character,” explains Thomas Doxiadis, whose studio has been entrusted with the redevelopment of Strefi. “People used it as a quarry to build their houses in the 18th and early 19th centuries and created a caldera as they cut into the hill. The thing I love about Strefi –and Athens in general– is that it’s not perfectly designed. There’s no imposition of an overall plan, which makes it more interesting and alive. That character is what we have aimed to preserve through the regeneration scheme.”
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The Runner-Up: Ardittos Cupping the Panathenaic Stadium, this low hill offers a panoramic view over the marble stadium to the Acropolis; on clear days, you can even see Aegina island across the bay. Enter from Archimidous street to access the stadium’s upper ring – a popular training track for runners. Ardittos is believed to be the famed Helicon of antiquity where jurors were sworn in. Scant ruins atop the wooded peak mark a temple Herod Atticus dedicated to Tyche. In the second world war, resistance fighters fled Athens via a tunnel on the hill. The Acropolis view from the top, with the colossal Corinthian columns of the Temple of Olympian Zeus in the foreground, is sensational.
The Lookout: Kastella The pinnacle of Piraeus offers a totally different outlook on the city. Above the yacht-lined harbours of Mikrolimano and Marina Zea, Kastella is crowned by an obligatory church – plus the Veakio amphitheatre, a scenic venue for summer concerts. Stroll up from the waterfront through winding streets of colourful cottages and crumbling mansions. The summit affords spectacular views over Faliro Bay and back across the glaring concrete skyline. Take it all in from one of the great fish tavernas with sea views. Don’t miss the Piraeus Bowling Centre, which has a limousine full of Minions out front, a kitsch-tactic restaurant inside and a bowling alley that plays Trap in the basement. There’s only one word to describe this place: bizarre.
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O U T D O O R AT H E N S
5.2
Park Patrol
Shady business Athens may not have a Hyde Park, a Central Park, or a Jardin du Luxembourg, but the city’s precious green spaces offer a serene respite from the summer heat. Throw in an occasional alfresco tai chi session, free movie screening, and botanical museum, and Athenian park life doesn’t look so bad. Intro
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National Garden Queen Amalia’s backyard
This 40-acre park in the city centre was originally designed by Queen Amalia as her private garden. (The royal palace, since converted into the Hellenic Parliament, backs onto the park.) It’s a botanist’s delight, with more than 500 species of plants, many of them rare. Their foliage is an ornithological oasis, sheltering tawny owls, peacocks, and a large colony of feral parrots. Trellis-covered gazebos, busts of literary figures, two duck ponds, a playground, a tiny botanical museum, and an ivy-covered walk are some of the surprises that make a stroll more than a welcome escape from the urban bustle.
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Park Patrol
Zappeion Park Ground zero
In recent years, this walking park adjacent to the National Garden has regained its place at the centre of Athenian life. Like the grand conference hall at its centre, it too is named after the benefactors who funded its construction as a venue for trade fairs. Their busts flank its columned entrance. Zappeion Hall hosts ceremonial and state events, such as the signing of Greece’s accession to the EC. Its basement served as the first studio for Greek state radio in the 1930s. The city’s annual book fair and other open-air events are held on the beautifully landscaped grounds.
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Stavros Niarchos Park Designer recreation
This purpose-built park has transformed the densely populated neighbourhood of Kallithea – living proof of the positive impact of Renzo Piano’s sustainably minded structure. Gravel walkways fringed by evergreen Mediterranean plants are dotted with wooden playgrounds, water jets, and metal chairs strategically placed under olive trees. Start from the bottom and walk up the fragrant slope to the Faros (Lighthouse), a viewing platform with commanding views of city and sea. The floating canopy overhead is covered in solar panels that power the National Opera and National Library slotted underneath the artificial hill. The park is one of the liveliest spots in the capital, with an impressive programme of free outdoor concerts, film screenings and festivals all year round. Leoforos Andrea Siggrou 364, Kallithea 176 74, +30 216 809 1000, snfcc.org/en/snfcc/stavros-niarchos-park
Pedion tou Areos Field day
Pedion tou Areos, or the “Field of Ares”, is one of the largest and oldest parks in Athens. It is dedicated to the heroes of Greece’s uprising against the Ottoman empire in 1821, who are commemorated in a series of stern-faced statues. The park’s designers may have had their eye on history, but it’s the everyday life that spills over from the surrounding neighbourhoods of Kypseli, Exarchia, Victoria and Gyzi that gives this recently revamped park such a vibrant energy. From old geezers playing chess on the benches to blackclad anarchists walking their dogs, Syrian families enjoying a picnic and Pakistanis playing cricket, this is one of the few public spaces that embodies Athens’ nascent multicultural spirit.
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Park Patrol
Diomedes Botanical Garden Suburban exotica Theophrastos, a student of Aristotle, created the world’s first botanical garden in Athens in the 4th century BC. Its modern descendant, the Diomedes Botanical Garden, was founded in 1950. Gifted to the Agricultural University of Athens by a wealthy donor, at 460 acres it’s the largest garden of its kind in the eastern Mediterranean. The unlikely location, buttressed by a roaring highway in the nondescript suburb of Haidari, means this green haven tends to be overlooked by visitors and locals alike. But it’s worth the trek. The herbarium alone contains over 19,000 different dried plants. Get your tongue in a twist trying to pronounce the Latin names of plants such as Cupressus sempervirens (Mediterranean Cypress) and Pinus halepensis (Aleppo pine). Or just run through the park shouting and screaming as local kids do every weekend. Iera Odos 403, Haidari 124 61, +30 210 581 1557
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Antonis Tritsis Metropolitan Park City limits This park in the outlying suburb of Ilion is big enough that you can almost trick yourself that you’re in the countryside, with Mount Parnitha looming in the distance. A number of waterways coalesce into a large lake at the park’s centre. You can follow the miniature railway line that winds its way through the park – although it never ran, so you’ll have to rely on your own steam. At the Centre of the Earth eco-park, you can learn about biodiversity and kids can take pony rides, while Disney would be proud of The Queen’s Tower, hidden at the centre of the park and impossible to find unless you know it’s there. Leoforos Dimokratias 67, Ilion 131 22, +30 210 232 5380, centeroftheearth.gr
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O U T D O O R AT H E N S
5.3
Rise & Shine
Mount pleasant
Intro
During lockdown, the mountains surrounding the capital were a lifeline for adventurous Athenians. With activities for all fitness levels, Attica’s mountains offer a deep breath of fresh air. Escape the inner city smog, heat, and hubbub, and rediscover that rare commodity: silence. Whether you’re into swimming, hiking, or running, the warm, dry Athenian climate makes it easy to stay active all year round. But three reasons tower above all others: Parnitha, Penteli and Hymettus – the three wooded mountains that surround Athens. Each of these stone titans offer opportunities for road cycling, mountain biking, trekking, and rock climbing. Staring back at the city from any of these majestic peaks is an exhilarating experience within easy reach of the centre. 116 SUMMER 2021
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Hymmetus Summit in the city
Hymettus is the easiest mountain to reach from central Athens, just above the lively suburb of Kaisariani. Start at Kaisariani Monastery, a Byzantine masterpiece probably built on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Aphrodite, the goddess of love, pleasure and passion. It’s a fitting launchpad for pursuing outdoor passions: well-marked trails vary from a stroll through a botanical garden to a scramble up gravelly slopes to the summit. From the transmitter towers, you can see over the other side of the mountain and watch planes landing and taking off at Athens airport. As you climb, the atmosphere and foliage change, from the humid, pine-scented air and thick forest of the foothills to the harsh, rocky terrain above the tree-line. The Kalopoula canteen is a charming, shady spot to refuel (order the bean soup, if it’s winter), while small chapels and abandoned huts are scattered across the slopes, just waiting to be discovered.
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Rise & Shine
Parnitha High times
Mount Parnitha is the closest national park to a capital city anywhere in Europe. At 1,500 metres, it’s also the tallest mountain in Attica. If you’re on foot, the 726 bus takes you to the teleferik (cable car), which will whizz you up to the casino at the summit. Hundreds of kilometres of hiking trails stretch in all directions. A popular route is to the mountain refuge of Bafi (mpafi.gr), a scenic spot for a mountain tea or a rakomelo (warm grappa laced with honey). You can even stay overnight. Alternatively, start from the village of Fyli and follow any of the waymarked trails in Parnitha’s foothills. An easy route with spectacular views skirts a lush valley, ending at a series of ice-cold waterfalls and the sacred cave of Faneromeni.
Saddle up
Parnitha is paradise for mountain bikers. From downtown Athens, it’s an hour’s cycle ride to the base of Parnitha, followed by a stiff climb up a seemingly endless series of switchbacks until you emerge at a plateau near an abandoned sanatorium. From here, it’s a choose-your-own-adventure scenario, depending on your fitness levels and whether you have an off-road bike. Sadly, forest fires decimated the area several years ago; the windswept highlands feel almost lunar, while the lower slopes are a lush habitat for birds of prey, wolves, and deer. The northern end of Parnitha is an easier proposition: aim for the ghostly former royal palace of Tatoi for a picnic with post-apocalyptic vibes or Beletsi Lake for a serene soak. Continue to Avlona or Afidnes, where you can catch the suburban railway back to Athens.
GR Cycling Tzaferi 16, Gazi 118 54, +30 210 867 5623, grcycling.com
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Penteli Marble run
Mount Penteli is where the marble to build the Parthenon was mined, then dragged all the way to Athens in enormous chunks. Today, it’s nowhere near as torturous to reach: take the metro to Kifissia, then bus 526 to Platonos or bus 536 to Dionysos. Alternatively, take the suburban railway to Agios Stefanos, then hike or cycle up into the mountain. The views are a knockout – beyond the shores of Marathon to the island of Evia. Explore the austere marble quarries of Dionysos, whose sheer rock-face is popular with daredevil climbers. Daveli’s Cave, named after a 19th century bandit, was once dedicated to Pan, the goat-footed god of shepherds and mountains. Today, the grotto shelters a rare double-sided Byzantine chapel.
Action plan
Although a car is useful, the mountains are accessible (with a little effort) on public transport or a bicycle. GR Cycling has a range of road, mountain and e-bikes for rent, and organises cycling tours in and around Athens. For guided hikes try Trekking Hellas, who also run caving and rock climbing expeditions on Parnitha. Going it alone? First pick up detailed maps from Anavasi, a specialist shop for maps and guidebooks near Syntagma Square. (The Anavasi mapp also has offline trekking maps.)
Trekking Hellas Dim. Gounari 96, Marousi 151 25, +30 210 33 10 323, trekking.gr/en
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Anavasi Voulis 32, Syntagma 105 57, +30 210 321 8104, anavasi.gr
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O U T D O O R AT H E N S
5.4
Stars Under the Stars
Intro
Athens is home to dozens of Art Deco, Bauhaus, and modernist cinemas that evoke the golden era of the silver screen. They’re not just a treat for movie lovers but architecture buffs and time travellers, too. Athens is a city of cinephiles. While most other capitals bulldozed their picture palaces long ago and replaced them with soulless multiplexes, almost every Athenian neighbourhood still has a much-loved open-air cinema. Around 65 outdoor movie theatres are scattered across Athens – wedged between apartment blocks, in flower-filled empty lots, and even on rooftops. 120 SUMMER 2021
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Stars Under the Stars From late May until late September (or even October, depending on the weather), Athenians can enjoy an eclectic selection of films from around the world – from the latest blockbusters to silent films, obscure cult classics or new releases by Greek auteurs. Programming is usually at the whim of each cinema owner, so expect some offbeat selections. The late owner of Cine Palas, an Art Deco institution in Pangrati, once screened nothing but “Hairspray” for weeks because he loved watching it so much. But when you go to a summer screening in Athens, the film isn’t really the headline act: the cinemas themselves are the stars. Where else could you watch a movie with the Acropolis as a backdrop, or cooled by the Aegean sea breeze instead of air conditioning? One cinema –Cine Dexameni in well-heeled Kolonaki– sits above an aqueduct commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian. At Riviera, in neighbouring Exarchia, you’ll be confronted with the concrete reality of modern-day Athens: the screen is framed by a patchwork of life that spills out from the apartment blocks that box it in.
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Pangrati is the arthouse capital of Athens; there were once 23 cinemas squeezed into this downtown neighbourhood. Many have since closed, but those that survive are some of the most spectacular in the city. The unmissable Cine Palas has barely changed since it opened in 1925. The neon-rimmed screen is a museum piece, and the Sinatra soundtrack adds to the retro atmosphere. Charming Cine Oasis is a more idiosyncratic affair: the auditorium is surrounded by kitsch statues, vintage cinema memorabilia and plants donated by neighbours. On pedestrianised Apostolou Pavlou street, in the foothills of the Acropolis, Cine Thisio dates from 1935. Besides astonishing Parthenon views, movie-goers are treated to
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Stars Under the Stars gourmet snacks, such as home-made cheese pies, sour cherry cordial, and organic wines. Just over pine-clad Filopappou Hill, Zefyros was originally a stage for shadow puppet theatre and cabaret acts; now it exclusively screens arthouse classics for its bohemian clientele (and a loyal audience of stray cats). For Greek independent movies and world cinema, Lais Open Air Cinema is perched on the roof of The Greek Film Archive, a digital library, laboratory and museum dedicated to the history of Greek cinema. Down in the seaside suburb of Faliro, Cine Flisvos is hidden in a waterfront park. Movie screenings are mostly mainstream blockbusters, but the snack bar fare is as local as it gets: souvlaki skewers and loukoumades (puffy honey-drenched doughnuts).
Athens Open Air Film Festival
The Athens Open Air Film Festival (aoaff.gr) treats the whole city as an outdoor theatre. Locations range from iconic landmarks like Lycabettus hill and the Temple of Olympian Zeus to neighbourhood parks, mansions, and museum gardens. The 2021 festival, which runs June 14 to August 23, takes inspiration from Wong Kar-Wai’s moody masterpiece, “In the Mood for Love”. Spike Lee’s “Do The Right Thing” and the Cohen brothers’ “Fargo” will be screened in venues as varied as Plato’s Academy park and the Duchess of Plaisance’s palace on the slopes of Mount Pendeli – an opportunity to venture to under-the-radar venues that are not always open to the public. And the plot twist? Entrance is free. Cine Palas Imittou 109, Pangrati 116 33, +30 210 751 1868, cinepallas.gr
Cine Riviera Valtetsiou 46, Exarchia, 106 81, +30 210 384 4827, facebook.com/riviera.athens
Cine Dexameni 7 Plateia Dexamenis, Kolonaki 116 33, +30 210 362 3942, cinedexameni.gr
Cine Oasis Pratinou 7, Pangrati 116 34, +30 210 724 4015
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Box Office
All films are screened in their original language with Greek subtitles (only kids’ movies are dubbed). Most cinemas have two screenings each evening, starting around 8:30-9 p.m. followed by a late show at 10:30 or 11 p.m.
Zefyros Troon 36, Petralona 118 51, +30 21 0346 2677, facebook.com/CineΖέφυρος-348089106061349 Cine Flisvos Flisvos Park (next to Flisvos Marina), Paleo Faliro 175 61, +30 21 0982 1256, cineflisvos.gr
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Lais Open Air Cinema Iera Odos 48 & Megalou Alexandrou 134-136, Keramikos, 104 35, +30 210 361 2046, tainiothiki.gr/en/programme/laisopen-air-cinema
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Sidewalk Surfers Where to skate in Athens.
Athens might have a similar climate to southern California, the spiritual home of skate culture, but it lacks the smooth concrete and extensive infrastructure. Athenian traffic is chaotic and public skateparks are scarce, but there’s a vibrant street skating scene. “Skaters differentiate themselves through the creative ways they overcome these difficulties and constraints,” explains Zachos Varfis, a skater and architect. Frustrated by the lack of options for vert skating, Zachos found an empty lot in the grubby Kerameikos district and crowdfunded the construction of Latraac (latraac.com), a state-of-the art bowl with an attached bar and garden. With DJ sets from some of Athens’ biggest underground stars, Latraac has become a late-night hangout for artists and skaters alike, even pulling in American pros such as Tony Hawk and Curren Caples. For street skaters, Zachos recommends the marble forecourt of the Athens Conservatoire and the Galatsi DIY skatepark in Veikou Park. “Galatsi is in a really scenic spot, surrounded
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by trees,” says Varfis. “It was built by the community so there’s almost a family atmosphere.” There’s a well-equipped skatepark inside Santiago Calatrava’s Olympic Park in Marousi, and smaller but lively skate parks in the suburbs of Vyronas, Illioupoli, Glyfada, and Halandri.
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Pocket parks
A breath of fresh air in Athens’ neighbourhoods.
Among the green recovery initiatives that the City of Athens has launched – upgrading the city’s water fountains and creating accessible walking and bike routes– the city’s new pocket parks hold a special place. Abandoned plots of land in downtown Athens are being turned into vital green spaces, an international best practice that works exceptionally well in a city that needs more open spaces. The first pocket park was created in July 2020 in Ano Kypseli, one of the most densely populated areas of Athens. Parks in key city neighbourhoods such as Pangrati, Kolonos and Metaxourgeio followed, while the new park in the residential neighbourhood of Sepolia was particularly successful, as an abandoned space was transformed into a lavender garden, giving the area a much needed breath of fresh air.
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The pocket parks are part of the “Adopt your city” programme, aiming to make the city greener, cooler and to improve the residents’ quality of life. “It’s about creating green spaces, lowering the temperatures, improving quality of life and creating new reference points inside the city,” Athens Mayor Kostas Bakoyannis has said. Tackling pollution and high temperatures and providing quality of life for its residents are on top of the City’s agenda for the years to come as Athens is branding itself as an accessible, resilient destination.
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Legrena beach.
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Great beaches just half an hour away from downtown
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Urban beach culture The Αthens Riviera becomes less gritty and more ritzy as it extends from Piraeus port to the temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion. The sandy shores are awash with beach bars, marinas, and bronzed Athenians. The rest of Attica’s coastline is a sleepier affair – from isolated coves for skinny dipping to rolling waves for surfing. Most of the beaches listed below are less than an hour from downtown Athens and many are accessible on public transport. 132 SUMMER 2021
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Vouliagmeni
Never knowingly underdressed “The most beautiful part of the Αthens Riviera is around Vouliagmeni”, according to Petros Parthenis, founder of WeSwim, an open water swimming club. “There are spectacular beaches and bays, but also great restaurants, an abundance of water-sports, and even an open-air cinema, Akti.” Vouliagmeni is certainly the most exclusive stretch of Athenian coastline. The wide, sandy beach of Akti Vouliagmenis is very popular with winter swimmers and pensioners engaged in furious racquetball tournaments. There’s excellent swimming and surfing on the pine-clad peninsulas of Mikro and Megalo Kavouri (Little and Big Crab) too. The three rocky coves of Limanakia are a not-so-secret hideout for nudists and the LGBT+ crowd, who bake on the sun-bleached rocks.
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Lake Vouliagmeni Bathing beauty
Thermal springs maintain a constant temperature of 22-29 degrees Celsius at Lake Vouliagmeni (limnivouliagmenis. gr/en), making this a very doable destination for an offseason swim. Once a traditional municipal spa frequented by arthritic old codgers, this sunken cave sheltered by cliffs has significantly upped its glam factor. Wooden decking surrounds the lake, with sun loungers along the water’s edge. The murky, mineral-rich waters have therapeutic benefits, and the tiny fish eat away at your dead skin. Locals say there are monsters lurking in the underwater caverns, but that doesn’t stop experienced divers from taking the plunge.
Althea, KAPE and Legrena Bay watch
Ten kilometres south of Vouliagmeni is Althea, a sliver of sand beneath rocky cliffs, Althea is another of Parthenis’ favourite beaches. “A wild-feeling beach with a small island off the coast, I’d recommend it as an alternative to the organised beaches because it really looks like you’re on an island. You don’t see any evidence of urban life – just the rocks, the shoreline and the open sea.” Further along the coast towards Sounion, KAPE and Legrena have the same wild beauty and turquoise water. Legrena is loveliest at twilight, as sunset gilds the Doric columns of Poseidon’s temple, which has guarded the entrance to the Saronic Gulf since the 5th century BC.
Kape beach. Photo by Updrones
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Schinias Fringe benefits
On Attica’s eastern coast, Schinias faces the island of Evia. The long crescent of golden sand is fringed by windswept pine trees that provide shade if beach bars aren’t your thing. Equally popular with families, twentysomethings, and water-sports enthusiasts, the beach and Olympic Rowing Centre both lie within Schinias National Park, a popular training ground for triathletes thanks to its proximity to Marathon (yes, that Marathon). Run by Greek triathlete Danae Moraitis’ family, Moraitis Beach bar is a great spot to survey the action on the shoreline. But its primary focus is watersports: offering windsurfing, wakeboarding, SUP, sea kayaks, subwing and snorkelling.
The Gulf of Corinth Way out west
Around an hour and a half from Athens, the beaches of western Attica are considerably quieter than those closer to the capital. “For me, north of Porto Germeno is the best area for swimming in the whole region,” says Parthenis. “The water in the Gulf of Corinth is fresher and the scenery around the slopes of Mount Kithairon is amazingly green.” Parthenis prefers to venture beyond the lively beach resort of Porto Germeno. Further north, Agios Vasilios is much more remote and unspoilt, with a pebble beach and traditional tavernas. Aghios Nikolaos is barely developed, like a small village with just one old taverna and deep, crystal clear waters that sometimes attract harmless sharks.
Swim Meet If you fancy open water swimming with a non-competitive, welcoming group of locals, Petros Parthenis and his WeSwim (weswim.gr) crew hit the water in Voulliagmeni bay every Wednesday at 7pm. Sessions are free and are suitable for all abilities. Petros also hosts a private Airbnb Experience (https://abnb. me/o1PqdCDlTgb) in Vouliagmeni. Over three and a half hours, you’ll swim two to three kilometres and polish up your open water breathing, safety and navigation techniques. Tap Petros for the secrets he’s picked up over decades of wild swimming along Attica’s coastline. 135 LiFO
Wednesdays at 6:45-7pm. Meet in the car park outside Sardelaki taverna. Poseidonos 18, Vouliagmeni 166 71
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Sunsets at Sounion.
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Getting Around Transport for Athens (OASA, oasa.gr) offers a solid transport network and a very reasonable flat fare for travel within the city limits (except for trips to and from the airport). Electronic signage at bus stops, real-time travel information and trip planning via the OASA website or app ensure a smooth transit. Bus, trolley and metro are best for getting around the neighbourhoods and suburbs, the tram for the beaches and Athens Riviera. The city centre is best explored on foot. Bicycles and electric scooters are surging in popularity among younger Athenians, with designated lanes gradually being incorporated into urban planning. Metro: Fast, efficient and spotless, the Athens metro is the quickest way to get around town. The metro system has three lines and is being expanded. Line 1 is the old ilektrikos, or electric rail, that is mostly overground. Ticket etiquette:
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Single tickets on all modes of public transport (including the suburban railway) are valid for 90 minutes. The paper ATHE.ENA ticket (athenacard.gr) is valid for unlimited travel for 24 hours, 3 or 5 days; a plastic ATH.ENA card is also available. Buy or top up at vending machines in metro stations, tram stops or ticket offices in central metro stations. (Top up paper tickets after they run out, plastic cards before.) Getting to and from the airport: A half-hourly metro service links the airport to downtown Athens, from 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Schedules are posted in stations along the airport line; estimate about 40 minutes travel time from Syntagma. Three bus lines offer a 24-hour service from the airport to the city centre and the port of Piraeus. The suburban railway also runs a regular airport service to Piraeus and Athens Railway Station (Larissa Station). Fares to/from the airport are purchased separately. Getting to the islands: Three ports, Piraeus, Lavrio, and Rafina, connect Athens to many of the Greek islands. Piraeus is easily reached from both Athens and the airport, by metro, bus or the suburban railway, with a planned tram extension underway. Both Lavrio and Rafina can be reached by coach (KTEL, ktelattikis.gr/en); some ferry companies also run coaches to and from Lavrio for their passengers.
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Kolokotronis statue, hero of the Independence Revolution of 1821
Travelling to the mainland: Greece’s mountainous terrain has limited the development of a wide-ranging railway network, but you can catch a train to destinations like Meteora, Volos, and Thessaloniki. There’s also a suburban rail network, the Proastiakos, linking Athens to nearby towns like Corinth and Halkida. The Athens Railway Station (Stathmos Larissis) is the main train hub (trainsose.gr). The Greek mainland is served by an extensive network of intercity KTEL buses that also covers Attica (ktelattikis.gr), including Sounio and Marathon. KTEL routes are organised by region, and depart from different terminuses. Taxis: Taxis in Athens are cheaper than most European cities. Hail a cab on the street, call, or book in advance using an app such as Beat, Taxiplon, or Uber (which operates exclusively with taxis in Athens). There’s a set fare from airport to city centre, but confirm that your destination falls within that range. All fares are metered, with a minimum fare currently set at €3.50. Rates per kilometre (double outside the city limits and between midnight and 5 a.m.), plus extra charges such as baggage or station pickups, must be posted inside the taxi. Driving: Driving and parking in the centre of Athens can be frustrating, but is often the best option for day trips around and beyond Attica. Roads and signage are much improved, but driver’s etiquette hasn’t always kept pace. Underground art Unlimited travel passes allow you to pop in and out of stations – a bonus on the Athens metro as each station has its own permanent exhibition of art or antiquities. Ancient finds unearthed during metro construction are exhibited at Syntagma, Monastiraki, Acropolis, Kerameikos, Egaleo, and Elaionas. Other stations offer a crash course in modern Greek art, with works by internationally renowned artists Yiannis Moralis (Panepistimio), Dimitris Mytaras (Dafni), Stephen Antonakos (Ampelokipi), and Chryssa (Evangelismos).
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CityGuide
ATHENS CULTURE For all this summer’s events, exhibitions and concerts press here.
New in Athens: Three cultural landmarks that just opened their doors to the public. í Ancient Athens: A concise guide of all the right sites and museums to visit if you want to learn about Ancient Greece. í Art&Design Athens: Must see museums, gallery districts, architectural landmarks and five unusual museums with great art. í Secret Athens: Uncovering the city’s lesser known landmarks. í Outdoor Athens: Parks, mountains and a list of all the open air cinemas worth visiting. í Coastal Athens: Beach life is just half an hour away from the city center.