WINTER
E NG LI S H E DI TI O N
A MAGICAL SEASON Savour the season’s spirits!
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ONAL SEASCIPES RE
No. 37
LËTZEBUERG 13 € GERMANY, FRANCE, BELGIUM, NETHERLANDS, SPAIN, ITALY: 13.90 € EUROPE: 14.50 € WORLD: 18.40 €
FOOD
QUICK & EASY: SOUPS KUDDELFLECK, FUESKICHELCHER FEATURE: SALT, EGG LIQUEUR CHEF PORTRAIT: CYRIL MOLARD RESTAURANT: LA MAISON LEFÈVRE SWEET POTATO, POMEGRANATE
LIFESTYLE ARTIST: PHILIPPE LAMESCH DIY GIFTS WINTER GARDENING
SUMMARY
26 30 56 80 94 106
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108 112 132 KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
RESTAURANT & SHOP NEWS — 08 NEWS — 10
FOOD
M AG A ZINE
SUMMARY
TASTYBOX — 12
SEASONAL MENU — 48 RECIPES — 60
Simmering elegance
FEATURE
PRODUCTS WE LOVE — 13
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Salt 72 Recipes by Bertrand Duchamps
BOOKS — 14
— 76
DETOX RECIPES — 82
COVER STORY — 16
AYURVEDIC RECIPE — 90
FOODOSCOPE — 174
Celeriac schnitzel
RECIPE DIRECTORY — 176
SEASONAL VEGETABLE — 92 Sweet potatoes
IMPRINT — 177
SEASONAL FRUIT — 102 BAKING CLASSICS — 108
TYPICALLY LUXEMBOURGISH — 22
Dark chocolate cake by Alessandro Vitali
Fueskichelcher
KNOWLEDGE BITES — 110
GRANNY’S RECIPE — 24
Fluffy dumplings
Dutch cheese biscuits
TRAVELLING TASTE BUDS — 112
ONCE UPON A TIME... — 26
Red lentil dahl
Onion soup by Léa Linster
KNOWLEDGE BITES
LUXEMBOURGISH CLASSICS — 28
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Sushi, local style 114 Spicehunter 118
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Kuddelfleck by Carlo Sauber
Gromperekichelchen by Thomas Murer
EXPAT RECIPE — 32
Torrone bianco by Nico D‘Introno
K IDS
MY LUXEMBOURG — 30
RESTAURANT PORTRAIT — 34
KIDS DIY — 120
Wintertime crafting fun
KACHEN WITH KIDS — 121 Sweet potato pizza
La Maison Lefèvre – A fine jewel of fine dining
CAFÉ PORTRAIT — 36
DR INK S
Dalmat Coffee House
PORTRAIT OF A CHEF — 38 Cyril Molard
CHEF’S MASTERCLASS — 40
Ruggeri limoncello
BAR SNAPSHOT — 128 Lady Jane
The tables have turned
Kass-Haff – Open-air barns & an organic farmshop
MADE IN LUXEMBOURG — 46
Pauls Winery
EVENTS — 130
Chicken from Gers
LOCAL & REGIONAL — 44
VINTNER FAMILY — 124
FEATURE — 134 Egg liqueur
SHAKE IT BABY! — 138
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LË T ZE BUE RG
Pomegranate
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
COVER STORY
MULLED APPLE CIDER WIT H C A LVA DOS
Serves 4 5 minutes 10 minutes
› › › › › ›
1 tbsp brown sugar ½ tsp ground cinnamon 1/8 tsp ground cloves 1 l cloudy apple juice 2 cm fresh ginger, sliced 60 ml Calvados or rum (optional)
1 Combine the brown sugar,
cinnamon and cloves in a small bowl. 2 Gently warm the apple juice in a pan until it starts to steam ‒ it should not boil. 3 Add the sugar-spice mix and ginger to the pan, cover and turn heat to the lowest setting. 4 Leave to steep for 10 minutes. Stir in the Calvados or rum and serve.
GIFT IDEA
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Combine 4 tbsp brown sugar, 2 tsp ground cinnamon and ½ tsp of cloves. Pour into a small glass jar and decorate with a ribbon and recipe instructions. Use 1 heaped tbsp of the mixture per litre of apple juice.
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
COVER STORY
HIB ISCUS &
G I NG E R T E A Serves 4
5 minutes
› 2 tbsp (6 g) dried hibiscus flowers › 12 g fresh ginger, sliced into coinsized discs
5 minutes › 2 slices of orange › 600 ml water, freshly boiled › 1–2 tsp honey, to taste
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1 Place the hibiscus flower, ginger and orange slices in a teapot. 2 Pour over freshly boiled water and allow to steep for five minutes. 3 Pour into mugs through a strainer and sweeten with honey if desired.
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
LUXEMBOURGISH CLASSICS
DI E K I RC H - S T Y L E
K UDDE LF LE C K If anyone knows their way around typical Luxembourg cuisine, it’s Carlo Sauber. This time he has prepared a real winter comfort dish, Diekirch-style Kuddelfleck. Even if the “original” Kuddelfleck (in red sauce) may not be everyone’s cup of tea, this version is sure to be a hit!
Serves 6 1 hour 50 minutes + day before
› 2 kg of pre-cooked Kuddelfleck (tripe)
› Cold milk › 1 bouquet garni (leek, onion, carrot & celery tied in a bundle)
For the marinade
› 2 onions › Parsley › Salt & pepper
For the breading
› 1 egg › Breadcrumbs › Flour For the sauce
› › › ›
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› › › › › › › › › ›
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
1.5 l brown stock 50 g diced bacon 40 g lard 150 g diced vegetables (leek, celery, carrots, onions) 2 garlic cloves 30 pickled gherkins 20 g capers 100 ml tomato purée 1 tbsp tomato paste 200 ml Elbling (or other white wine) Thyme, parsley, chervil, tarragon Espelette pepper or cayenne pepper 30 g butter 30 g flour
LUXEMBOURGISH CLASSICS
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Add the thyme and simmer for 25 minutes, skimming regularly. Strain the sauce. Reduce the sauce until it thickens.
Finely chop the gherkins and mix with the capers in a bowl. Before serving, reheat the sauce and add the pickles, capers, parsley, chervil and tarragon.
Pour the stock reduction and vegetables (step 4) over the roux while whisking to prevent lumps. Boil for 5 minutes and add the garlic cloves and two pinches of Espelette or cayenne pepper.
Drain the meat. Bread the meat by dipping each piece into the flour, followed by the beaten egg and then the breadcrumbs. Fry in a pan at 180°C.Serve with the sauce and a side of homemade chips.
Carlo Sauber Marc Dostert
In another saucepan, prepare a brown roux by melting 30 g of butter (or the lard from step 2) and adding 30 g of flour. Heat until it turns slightly brown. Bring the rest of the stock to a boil and add. Leave it to cool.
In the same pot, caramelise the tomato paste and purée to reduce the acidity.
RECIPE PHOTOS
Deglaze with a glass of white wine, then reduce by half. Boil half of the brown stock with the reduced wine and the vegetables for 10 minutes.
For the sauce, sweat the vegetables in a pot, over a low heat with the lard. Drain off the fat, set it aside for later and put the vegetables back in the pot.
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Cut the Kuddelfleck into 10 x 6 cm rectangles and arrange them in a bowl, alternating with onion rings mixed with parsley, salt and pepper. Drizzle with cold milk and leave to marinate for 2 hours.
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
PORTRAIT OF A CHEF
C Y R IL MOL A R D S TA R C HE F
TEXT PHOTO
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The owner of fine dining restaurant Ma Langue Sourit in eight years and became executive chef. But at the age of Moutfort comes from a humble background, owing his 37, Molard, now a father, handed in his notice at Le Royal and moved to Moutfort, where he put together a first-rate successful culinary career to hard work alone. Cyril Molard grew up in Cornimont, in the Vosges team, including his sous-chef from Le Royal, Frédéric region, where his parents ran a butcher’s shop. “I used to Riffaud. “The following year, I obtained my first Michelin help out in the evenings, on Sundays...We lived directly star,” he smiles. A star he has retained ever since, adding a above the shop,” he recalls. As a child, he dreamed of second to his name in 2018. “It was a difficult time for me. becoming “a professional footballer or handball player…” My mother had died a few months earlier, while having But a minor heart defect meant he wasn’t destined for a minor surgery,” he says sadly. “I lost my lust for life for career on the pitch. After some deliberation, he opted to pretty much everything. I felt so low I didn’t even want to study for a vocational qualification in butchery, graduat- go to the Michelin ceremony.” But he went anyway, and ing as second-best apprentice in Lorraine, before going on was presented with his second star. It was then that Cyril Molard decided to get his act to obtain an advanced vocational certificate in Nancy and together. And he did so, in style. The awards have been coming top in the region. Back in the Vosges, he met Éric Goddyn, crowned flooding in ever since! He became Gault&Millau Chef of ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) charcutier-traiteur’ the Year, with the guide also awarding him 18.5/20 (the highest score ever awarded to any restau(Best Artisan Butcher in France) in 1995 and rant in Luxembourg). Ma Langue Sourit was today in charge of products at Thiriet. “Éric named a ‘Grande Table du Monde’ (one of the put me in touch with André Lenormand – also “It was tough best restaurants in the world). He was invited an ‘MOF’ – in Orléans, and I went to work for going, but I to cook at the exclusive Villa Louise, where he him.” Cyril Molard thrived here, becoming was used to delighted diners with his culinary creations, more and more involved in the cooking side the stress of and to the prestigious Hangar-7 in Salzburg of Lenormand’s high-end catering business. working in a as its Chef of the Month. This tireless chef Then, at a dinner party helping out chef Guy top kitchen.” also organises charity dinners and galas, Krenzer, Krenzer offered him a job in Paris. collaborates on menus with renowned chefs, And not just anywhere in Paris: Molard found himself working as a ‘garde-manger’ at Lapérouse – one of trains amateur chefs for competitions, takes part in the the first restaurants in Paris to be awarded three Michelin World Pastry Championships and works on dinner cruises in the Caribbean alongside other Michelin-starred chefs. stars. It was the start of his career in the kitchen. It therefore comes as no surprise when the 52-year-old Shortly afterwards, Guy Krenzer, both a ‘Best Artisan Butcher in France’ and ‘Best Artisan Chef in France’ title- tells us he works “around 90 hours a week”! And in his holder, set sail for horizons new, but not before helping his free time? Well, when he has any, he enjoys spending time kitchen crew secure new posts. “I set off to work for Emma- with his teenage sons and – “far too rarely” – fishing. “I nuel Renaut, now a three-star Michelin chef at Flocons de also love music. As I live an hour’s drive from the restauSel in Megève,” in London and Haute-Savoie, but then life rant, I have time to listen to music in the car. I like a varicalled him back to Cornimont, to help his parents. There, ety of artists: Julien Clerc, Simple Minds, Jacques Brel...” a friend encouraged him to apply for a job at La Lorraine His little treat to himself when he’s not indulging others! in Luxembourg City. “The chef there at the time was Patrick Käppler, from the Robuchon school. There was a gourmet restaurant on the MA L ANGUE SOURIT first floor and I became his sous-chef. It was tough going, but I was used to the stress of working in a top kitchen. I 1, Rue de Remich — L-5331 Moutfort loved it!” It was here that Cyril Molard met Anne-Sophie, Tel. +352 / 26 35 20 31 now his wife, colleague and mother of his children. His next career move took him to Le Royal, where he stayed mls.lu
Marie Tissier Ramunas Astrauskas
Cyril Molard’s restaurant Ma Langue Sourit is one of Luxembourg’s most prestigious gourmet addresses. Despite his outstanding achievements of two Michelin stars and a score of 18.5 in the Gault&Millau guide, Cyril Molard remains very much down-to-earth.
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
S E ASON ’S E AT ING S :
A FESTIVE FEAST F OR E V E RY PA L AT E
SEASONAL MENU
Our seasonal menu for the upcoming holidays caters to every taste. Our selection of simple, versatile recipes promises effortless enjoyment for Christmas, New Year, or any spontaneous gathering. Rich in flavour and perfect for any occasion. Celebrate the holidays with wonderfully simple, yet extraordinary, dishes. And, most importantly, no stress in the kitchen!
WINE RECOMMENDATIONS Philippe Schmitz
CRE AMY SOUP WITH CHES TNUTS & MUSHROOMS Serves 6
20 minutes
30 minutes
› 600 g cooked chestnuts
› › › ›
1 Brush and slice the mushrooms.
3 At the end of the cooking time,
( jar or vacuum-packed) › 500 g button mushrooms › 1 white onion › 30 g butter
Coarsely crush the chestnuts. Peel and chop the onion. 2 Melt the butter in a casserole dish. Brown the mushrooms and chestnuts over a high heat. Season with salt and pepper. Remove 3 tbsp of the mixture for decoration. Add the onion and sweat without browning for 2 minutes. Crumble in the stock cube and top up with water. Cover and cook for 20 minutes.
200 ml whipping cream Fresh thyme 1 vegetable stock cube Salt & pepper
remove some of the stock from the pan (to adjust the texture of the velouté later). Blend with a hand blender or blender until smooth. Pour in the cream and blend again to combine. 4 Season and reheat if necessary. Divide between soup plates or bowls and garnish with the reserved chestnut/mushroom mixture and thyme.
WINE PAIRING
VIGNUM, Riesling Wormeldange Koeppchen, Grand Premier Cru
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The minerality and freshness of this white wine perfectly balance this dish.
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
F E AT U R E
A PINC H OF SA LT Henry the Lion was furious. The salt road led directly over a bridge across the Isar river on Bishop Otto of Freising’s land. This entitled the bishop to all the bridge tolls. Henry lost his temper, had the bridge destroyed and promptly built a new one five kilometres away on his land. And so now the money went into his coffers. The tolls were high, and Henry the Lion, though only Duke of Bavaria, was a King of the salt trade. For it brought wealth; the kind of wealth prized by the rulers of Ancient Egypt. Taxes, storage fees and monopoly contracts turned some towns into prosperous cities. People have been seasoning, preserving and bathing with salts for several thousands of years. For a long time, the crystals, oftentimes
referred to as “white gold”, were the reserve of the rich, in their palaces, castles and villas. With the discovery of larger salt deposits in the 19th and 20th centuries, salt became an affordable condiment for all, to, in some respects, once again become a status symbol today. In particular, the white flakes extracted by salt marsh workers, with traditional wooden shovels and centuries-old skill, from the surface of huge basins in the Camargue and on the Guérande Peninsula in France and from Ria Formosa Natural Park near Tavira in eastern Algarve, are considered a gourmet product in haute cuisine. Sea salt is obtained directly through the evaporation of seawater. A speciality is “fleur de sel” or “flor de sal” (literally: flower of
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TEXT
Oliver Zelt
We’re all more than familiar with the little white crystals that we use in and on almost everything we eat. But did you know that the mineral comes in a plethora of colours and has not always been used just for seasoning food? Salt: between love and culinary passion.
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
salt), where a thin layer of salt settles on the surface of the water and is delicately skimmed off by hand. Unlike refined sea salt, which is harvested by machine, bleached in a chemical solution and rapidly dried with a gas burner and electric furnace, fleur de sel retains a total of 92 essential minerals for the human body, including magnesium, iodine and selenium. However, foodwatch, an organisation that keeps a close eye on the contents of foodstuffs, found microplastic particles in sea salts that they tested. According to foodwatch, these contaminations are probably due to the abundance of microplastics in seawater. Despite all the hype about the crunchy salt flakes from the sea, 96 percent of all salt types consist
F E AT U R E
tains – a little more than two-thirds. Salt deposits from ancient oceans are mostly mined underground. When mined directly by drilling, cutting or blasting, these salts are called “rock salts”. If the salt content in the rock is only around 50 to 60 percent, the salt deposits cannot be extracted directly from the mountain. Instead, they are dissolved out with water. The salt is then usually enriched with iodine and fluorine and mixed with anti-caking agent, to make it easier to shake out of the shaker. But salt was never solely intended as a seasoning for a tasty meal. In ancient times , it was used as an aphrodisiac, and the Greeks believed that too little salt affected male potency. A belief that appears to have been long-held.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, “salting one’s spouse” was a fashionable practice, at least in art. A woodcut from the time depicts four women salting their husbands in a salting tub, accompanied by the words: “Our husbands are so noble and sweet that they gladly endure our service. That’s why we salt them in the salting tub, from front and back, to make their sex even prouder.” Doctors have long warned against consuming too much salt. Although the mineral is vital for our water balance, bone structure, nervous system and digestion, the World Health Organisation recommends no more than five grammes a day.
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of pure sodium chloride. It is the remaining 4% that makes all the salty difference: whether through phosphate, potassium or algae, from the sea, mines or high mountains. Salt is not just little white crystals, but comes in a variety of colours and forms. Australian Murray River salt gets its colour from tiny algae and ranges from orange to pale pink. The activated charcoal-filtered sea salt “Perle Noire” is black and comes from the Hawaiian island of Molokai, while the graphite-coloured Indian Salish Alderwood salt gets its distinctive colour and flavour from being smoked over red alderwood. The vast majority of salt on the market does not, however, come from the sea, but from the moun-
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
SE A SONA L V EGE TA B L E
5 FAC TS A BOUT
SWE E T POTATOE S P O TATO VS SW E E T P O TATO While potatoes belong to the Solanaceae family, sweet potatoes are members of the Convolvulaceae family. Both are rich in vitamins and minerals. Sweet potatoes, however, are higher in calcium, vitamins C and E and beta-carotene. Unlike potatoes, sweet potatoes do not contain the natural toxin solanine. What’s more, they are an excellent source of Vitamin A, have high antioxidant potential and, thanks to their fibre content, help regulate blood sugar levels.
R AW & W I T H THE SKIN ON? An initiative of the Luxembourgish Government in the framework of the plan “Gesond iessen, Méi beweegen”. More infos: gimb.public.lu
T H E S E C R E T TO SW E E T P O TATO F R I E S
FIBRE CONTENT C OMB AT S C R AV I N G S
BUYING & S TO R I N G Fresh sweet potatoes are firm and almost odourless, with orange flesh. Tubers that are soft and wrinkled, or even watery or discoloured, are no longer fit for consumption. Otherwise, sweet potatoes can keep well for several weeks, if stored in a cool, dark, dry place – but never in the fridge. Frozen, they will keep for 10 to 12 months, but must be cooked before freezing.
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Sweet potatoes contain 3 g of fibre per 100 g, and are therefore filling. They help reduce blood sugar spikes and promote healthy digestion. High in potassium and magnesium, they regulate water balance and blood pressure and strengthen the heart. The Vitamin A they contain has an antioxidant effect and protects the liver, while the Vitamin E in them has anti-ageing properties.
Yes, sweet potatoes can be eaten raw, as sweet potato sticks or grated into a salad, for example. And eating the skin can help lower their glycaemic index, which is around 50. The skin contains caiapo, a substance known to have a positive effect on hypertension, diabetes and anaemia. The sweet potato’s leafy green tops are also edible, and can be prepared in the same way as spinach. Before eating raw sweet potato, make sure you cut off the ends, as these can have a bitter taste.
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
For crispy chips, cut your sweet potatoes into thin sticks and soak in water for an hour. After drying, coat your sweet potato sticks in starch and toss them lightly in oil before cooking in the oven until golden brown. Tip: Avoid salting before cooking and make sure you space the sticks sufficiently apart on the baking tray. For a healthier alternative that’s just as tasty: Cut your sweet potatoes into thin slices, season with oregano and pepper, drizzle with olive oil and pop in the oven.
SWE E T POTATO &
L IME S OUP
Serves 4 › › › › › ›
10 minutes
2 garlic cloves 2 spring onions 500 g sweet potatoes, peeled 3 cm fresh turmeric 4 cm fresh ginger 1 tbsp sunflower oil
1 Roughly chop the garlic cloves and
spring onions. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut into cubes. Use a small spoon to peel the fresh turmeric and ginger, and finely grate them. 2 Heat the sunflower oil in a large pan. On a medium heat, fry the spring onions and sweet potatoes for 5 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, turmeric and curry
25 minutes › › › › › ›
1 tsp curry powder 600 ml vegetable stock 50 g cashews 1 tin coconut milk 1–2 limes ( juice) Salt & pepper
powder, and fry for another minute. Deglaze with vegetable stock. Add the cashews and simmer for about 20 minutes until the sweet potatoes are soft. 3 In a food processor, blend the soup until creamy. Stir in the coconut milk and lime juice. Heat up and season to taste with salt and pepper.
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DECOR AT ION
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
DECOR AT ION
CONCEPT PHOTOS
You can find more decoration ideas by Heike Meyers at pmg.lu
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The holidays are not only a good time to spoil your loved ones with special kitchen creations, but also to make your home look festive. Heike Meyers shares her ideas for an elegant and cosy table setting with just a few simple “ingredients”. She uses timeless classics such as fir branches, red bows and, of course, candles galore. And with a homemade savoury festive wreath as the perfect treat, nothing will stand in the way of a magical get-together with your loved ones.
Heike Meyers Ramunas Astrauskas
C A NDLE LIG H T & PINE SC E N T
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TEXT PHOTO
Charel Heinen Joerg Saenger
T H I N K V EGE TA B L E S! T H I N K F RU I T!®
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23
T H I N K V EGE TA B L E S! T H I N K F RU I T!®
R IC K Y SAWA R D
FUS S -F R E E V EG A N H AUT E CUIS INE Ricky Saward has had an astonishing career, one that has taken him from the kitchens of a retirement home and eateries in his hometown to grand hotel kitchens in Vienna and Sydney, and eventually to Michelin-starred restaurants in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. Starting out in the world of conventional fine-dining fan of people who go overboard about things, who do cuisine, Ricky was soon ready to spread his wings in nothing but get on their soapbox. I’m a fan of getting on with the job and delivering. We take a fuss-free approach search of a new challenge. In 2018, Ricky was hired by Michelin-starred vege- here. We cook – exclusively with vegetables – and cook tarian restaurant Seven Swans, where he took over as very well. That’s what makes us stand out.” Labels and frills and fancies are generally not his head chef just a few months later. A jump into the deep end that was a risky move for both him and the restau- thing. They distract from what’s important. This is rant. “I wouldn’t do anything like that again today,” he evident in Seven Swans’ minimalist, stylish interior, as well as in its menu: There isn’t one. Diners at Seven says. But we’d be forgiven for not quite believing him. Swans are offered only its “secret” tasting Then, towards the end of 2019, he decided menu – with or without wine – and have to take an even riskier step and overhaul the restaurant’s menu to offer exclusively “I’m a fan of getting the little works of culinary art served to them straight from the kitchen by the chef regional and seasonal vegan dishes. What on with the job and his team. Because there are no waitis more and more of an established concept and delivering. We today still sounded far out a few years ago: take a fuss-free ing staff here either. “There’s no need for “People thought we were crazy,” the chef approach here. We them. We’re the ones preparing the dishes recalls. But his courage paid off, and to cook – exclusively in the kitchen, and so we’re also best great success: Seven Swans is currently with vegetables – placed to tell the diners about them.” booked up over a year in advance! and cook very well. The starting point for the restaurant’s That’s what makes dishes is always simple: What’s in season Ricky isn’t afraid to radically rethink us stand out.” and available right now? What can we modern haute cuisine. Of course, his make with it? What marries well with ideas aren’t always popular with everywhat? This requires a certain level of skill one. Some don’t understand the concept and dismiss it as nothing but a short-lived trend, while and expertise, and it is vital you know your products and others praise him as being revolutionary, a pioneer, produce inside out. The restaurant’s fresh ingredients even a missionary of vegan cuisine. He doesn’t like such come from its very own permaculture garden; with 350 labels: “Anyone can do what I do. I’m no different from different types of vegetable grown there all year round. anyone else. But what I can do is make people think, and These are dried, matured, grilled, smoked, fermented or powdered and offer plenty of scope for keeping the menu that’s something that’s important to me.” Does every original idea have to be revolutionary or interesting. This impresses non-vegans most of all as missionary? Of course, sustainability is important to they usually only realise towards the end of the evening him, but not in a pushy, showy way. “I’ve never been a that they haven’t missed their usual meat or fish at all.
SEVEN SWANS Mainkai 4 — D-60311 Frankfurt am Main Tel. +49 / 69 219 9622
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sevenswans.de
KACHEN No.37 | WINTER 23