Planning to travel with your dog? Here’s your pet pre-flight checklist
PG 73
Still plenty to enjoy in September before the back-to-school bell rings
Taste the sea in Malta’s most loved lampuki
PG 79
The KM Malta Airlines In-Flight Magazine
ON THE COVER
A boy takes a nap on a luzzu
MEET THE TEAM
DESIGN
TBWA\ANG
EDITOR
Fiona Galea Debono
SALES AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
TBWA\ANG
CONTRIBUTORS
Adriana Bishop
Alexandra Aquilina
Coryse Borg
Daniel Carabott
Lea Hogg
Lisa Gwen
Ruth Zammit DeBono
Thomas Camilleri
WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE FEATURED IN PASSAĠĠ I?
For advertising opportunities, get in touch with TBWA\ANG on passaggi@tbwa-ang.com or (+356) 2131 0608
Abigail: abigail@tbwa-ang.com or (+356) 9929 0518
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY
Jonathan Borg
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Daniel Vella
Jeff Fabri
Jonathan Borg
Jubilee Foods
Lisa Gwen
Saviour Fenech
HOW TO PRONOUNCE PASSAĠĠ
I /pasˈsadʒi/
Here’s the breakdown: • /p/ as in pass • /a/ as in art • /sˈ/ as in sun (with stress on the following syllable) • /dʒ/ as the sound of the j in 'judge' (geminated or doubled sound) /i/ as in eat
The word passaġġi means 'passages' in English.
The publisher, authors and contributors reserve their rights with regards to copyright. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied by any means without the written consent of the publisher. Editorial features and opinions expressed in Passaġġi do not necessarily reflect the views of KM Malta Airlines, the publisher, or the editorial team. Both KM Malta Airlines and the publisher do not accept responsibility for commercial and advertising content. Although the authors and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this magazine was correct before going to print, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause. Special thanks to KM Malta Airlines and VisitMalta for the provision of photographic material. Printed in Malta by Gutenberg Press. All magazine rights are reserved by KM Malta Airlines.
TBWA\ANG, 3rd Floor, Professional Building, Sliema Road, Gżira GZR 1633 Malta \ (+356) 2131 0608 \ tbwa-ang.com
Welcome to
David Curmi Executive Chairman KM Malta Airlines
As we enter the final weeks of the busy summer holiday period, we’d like to thank you for choosing KM Malta Airlines. This has been one of our strongest seasons yet, with many flights operating at over 90% capacity. Whether you’re travelling for leisure or business, it’s always a pleasure to welcome you on board.
We’re proud to share that KM Malta Airlines has topped London Heathrow’s Fly Quiet and Green league table for Q2 2025 – a recognition of our commitment to quieter, cleaner flying and responsible operations. This milestone reflects our ongoing investment in one of Europe’s youngest aircraft fleets and our vision for a truly sustainable national airline.
Another exciting development this month is the launch of online SkyBux redemption for KM Rewards members. You can now redeem your SkyBux instantly at the payment stage when booking on our website – whether to reduce your fare or cover extras like preferred seats or excess baggage. There’s no minimum spend, so even occasional travellers can benefit. A step-bystep video guide is available online, and if you’re not yet a KM Rewards member, now is the perfect time to join. Soon, we’ll also be introducing new lifestyle and retail redemption options beyond travel.
Our Winter 2024/25 and Summer 2026 schedules are now on sale, featuring increased frequencies and new opportunities to explore. Highlights include our popular Istanbul route, which will operate five times a week this winter and
next summer, offering even greater convenience for connections to and from this vibrant city.
For those seeking a unique gift or keepsake, we invite you to visit our sales office in the Departures area of Malta International Airport. There, you’ll find an exclusive range of Charles & Ron accessories – from elegant scarves and ties to striking jewellery – celebrating Maltese heritage and style. We also stock KM Malta Airlines aircraft models, perfect for collectors and aviation enthusiasts of all ages.
Thank you once again for flying with us. Whether you’re embarking on an autumn escape or returning home after summer adventures, we’re proud to be part of your journey.
The KM Malta Airlines In-Flight Magazine
Fiona Galea Debono Editor
September may be the final chapter of the summer holidays, but the season here still has plenty of pages left to turn. The air may be a touch softer and the routine of autumn just around the corner, yet the sea remains inviting, the skies dazzling and the atmosphere distinctly celebratory.
This month’s Passaġġi is brimming with inspiration to make every remaining summer day count. Think mega open-air concerts, vibrant cultural events and festas that fill the streets with colour, music and fireworks – including the Nativity of Our Lady in Mellieħa. Save the date!
In Gozo, we trade sandy beaches for farmyard fun and unforgettable animal encounters, while on the main island, we wander through Qormi – a town where bread is more than just food; it’s a heritage, an art form, and a source of pride.
Art lovers can follow our curated gallery-hopping trail through some of Malta’s exhibition spaces, while history buffs can leaf through the diaries of Valletta’s Casa Rocca Piccola, revisiting Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation and exploring the island’s unique royal connections on the second anniversary of her passing.
Our culinary adventures celebrate the much-loved lampuka – in season now – and show you how to turn it into a flaky, flavour-packed fish pie. We meet a Calabrian chef shaking up Malta’s dining scene and dip into the seafaring past to discover corsair tales of food, drink and daring exploits.
For a dash of active tradition, try your hand at boċċi, a game steeped in Maltese heritage. And meet an expat
whose love affair with the islands inspired a go-to Facebook community that recommends unforgettable local experiences.
Creativity takes centre stage too, with a homegrown stationery brand capturing Malta’s charm in handpainted blooms and island-inspired designs – perfect for taking a little piece of the islands home. And if you’re short on suitcase space, we have top tips for packing smart without missing out on that must-have souvenir.
Summer’s not over – so make the most of it and make it memorable.
ISLANDS
8
Città Pinto
Visit Qormi, the north of the south
TRAVEL
16
A city with two pulses
Munich balances vibrancy with tranquillity
20
An underrated gem in the heart of Germany
Hannover’s quietly confident charm
HERITAGE 25
Remembering the last Queen of Malta
Reliving Elizabeth II’s coronation through Casa Rocca Piccola diaries
The architect sisters behind Maltainspired stationery
ACTION
51
Rolling through time –Malta’s boċċi legacy
Not just an old man’s game
PEOPLE
55
Meet Mr Malta: one expat’s lifelong love for the island
The man behind Malta Holiday Experiences
PETS
61 Your dog’s pre-flight checklist
All you need to know about flying with your pet for the first time
TIPS
66
The great packing debate
Perks, pitfalls and personalities of heavy vs light packers
TRENDS
73
Slowly saying “so long” to summer
Winding down rituals after sundrenched hols
FOOD
79
Malta’s most loved fish
The lampuka is the queen of late summer cuisine
83
Inviting. Seasonal. Emerging Mama's cooking with a chef's hands
AIRLINE NEWS
91
Flight, company and destination information
All you need to know about flying with KM Malta Airlines
Church of St Sebastian.
Words by Lea Hogg
Lea is a Malta-based journalist and writer, known for her TV programme on current affairs, cultural news and in-depth interviews about politics and global issues.
Città Pinto
Take a stroll through Qormi’s streets and stories. From the Tal-Ħlas Chapel to the parishes of St George and St Sebastian, this town, also referred to as the ‘north of the south’, is a place where community is celebrated.
I visited Qormi to write about it, but before meeting local historian Dr Joe Grima, I took a walk through the town. It began in Wied isSewda, or Black Valley, but despite its name, the morning was warm with honey-coloured light and the scent of wild fennel.
From there, I headed to the lively Qormi market, where traders shouted prices over crates of peaches and prickly pears, and shoppers made their way through narrow lanes with bags already full.
Leaving the bustle behind, I wandered towards the Tal-Ħlas Chapel, first recorded in 1492 and dedicated to the Assumption of Our Lady. Restored in the 16th century, it gained a larger church beside it in 1690, designed by Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà. Today, the original chapel serves as the sacristy.
“The Tal-Ħlas Church area remains peaceful,” Joe tells me. “Walking here, or out to Tal-Bonċ and San Ġwakkin, offers a quiet escape – though progress has crept in.”
This calm setting was the perfect start to meeting the historian, who knows Qormi’s streets and stories better than anyone. Born here in 1945, the
educator and author of over 300 works on Maltese history has served on parish councils, led the Qormi Good Friday Committee for decades and chronicled the town’s traditions in print.
Joe’s voice carries a warmth. He speaks of Qormi with affection as one might of a long-time friend.
“The older part behind St George’s is a maze of narrow lanes,” he explains, “while the St Sebastian area is more orderly with straighter streets. Beyond that, the outskirts are blocks of flats and modern buildings.”
Joe urges me to visit Pinto’s Loggia before leaving. “Qormi, proudly called Città Pinto, treasures this pavilion built in 1772 for Grand Master Manuel Pinto da Fonseca. Once part of a farmhouse with stables, it’s been restored several times and remains a local landmark.”
Locals call Qormi “the north of the south”, reflecting its central position on the island – “not quite northern, not quite southern, but with the best of both,” Joe continues. This mix of old and new is visible throughout the town.
“We played in the streets without fear – traffic was almost non-existent. In summer, we went
to morning Mass at St George’s, then played ball on the church steps. Our mothers asked us the colour of the priest’s vestments to check if we’d really been; we tried to sneak in just enough to fool them, but not the Lord above,” Joe recounts about a slower childhood.
“Life here on a normal day is like any Maltese country town,” he says. “Except for the traffic before 9am as nearby localities funnel through. This eases in summer when schools close.” While shops cluster in the St Sebastian parish, its streets quieten down after dark.
Mornings, though, are alive, especially around bakeries. “We don’t just eat bread here,” Joe says. “We honour it!” Bread is part of Qormi’s identity. Between 1730 and 1760, then called Casal Fornaro, the village of bakers, it helped fund Malta’s defence under the Knights of St John. By 1861, about 500 locals worked in the bread trade, including 300 women. In the 1960s, Triq San Ġużepp alone had 26 bakeries.
Though horse carts have been replaced by vans, Qormi bakes all day and night. “Years ago, it was just the Maltese loaf or ftira,” Joe says. “Now every baker, known by nicknames like taż-Żebbuġ or ta’ Kalċ, has their specialty. And every person has a favourite.”
Jonathan Spiteri, a master baker who spent three years with the Saudi royal family, blends tradition and innovation. His latest is a Maltese loaf infused with za’atar – oregano, sumac, sesame and olive oil – giving it a subtle Middle Eastern twist and a delicate green-hued crust.
“Being a baker from Qormi means 24 hours of hard work,” he says, adding that “it’s worth every second”.
But Qormi’s story isn’t just about bread. Its skyline is marked by two parish churches: St George’s, a late-14thcentury baroque gem, and St Sebastian’s, built in the 1930s. They reflect different eras rather than rivalry.
“St George’s became a parish before 1436; St Sebastian’s only in 1936,” Joe notes. “Both are beautiful but centuries apart.”
Friendly competition runs deep, especially during Holy Week and the feasts of the two saints. Band clubs here are more than music groups – they’re social and quasi-political hubs. For Good Friday’s procession, over 500 locals take part, some in biblical costume, others behind the scenes. “Theatre and solemnity coexist,” Joe explains. “They keep our collective memory alive.
“Carrying processional statues is a family tradition,” he adds. “It’s common to see father and son together. The rivalry between parishes is part of the fun now. In the past, it could get heated, but sense prevails. The feasts blend lavish decorations, band marches, fireworks and church rites, though more people attend the outdoor festivities than the religious ceremonies.”
The feasts are an annual duel of spectacle and devotion. St George’s feast, with crimson banners and a triumphal
march, is full of drama. St Sebastian’s, dressed in blues and golds, parades its band through charged streets. Both parishes are convinced theirs is the greater celebration. To outsiders, it may look like rivalry; to Qormi, it’s tradition.
The historian admits Qormi has changed. “When I was young, front doors were unlocked. You wouldn’t do that now…
“Qormi may be an old town, but it is evolving. We’ve produced many important literary figures and historians. Our chapels and palazzos from the 18th and 19th centuries are treasures worth exploring.
“I’ve lived here for nearly 80 years, and despite change, it’s still home – where bread, faith and community bind us.”
Photos: Jeff Fabri. Qormi's famed Maltese loaf.
tips
How to fall in love with Qormi
Qormi’s Saturday market (7am to noon in the main square) is a noisy, no-frills affair, with prices set for locals.
On your walk in Qormi, check out Il-Kerrejja ta’ Pinto, an 18th-century palace on St Paul’s Street in St George’s parish. It proudly displays three coats of arms dating back to 1798, from the time of Napoleon.
Scout for half-price bread in some bakeries just before closing time.
Expect spectacular aerial fireworks during festa season, confetti in the streets and homes all decked out in lights.
Qormi on your calendar
Festa ta’ San Ġorġ (St George) celebrated every last Sunday of June.
Festa ta’ San Bastjan (St Sebastian) held on the third Sunday of July.
One of the town's alleyways.
Qormi's marketplace.
Words by Heritage Malta
The national agency for museums, conservation practice and cultural heritage, it is the guardian of over 8,000 years of history.
If this is your first visit to the Maltese Islands, you cannot leave without ticking these sites off your list.
Ta’ Kola Windmill Xagħra, Gozo
Imagine… a bright new morning with just the right wind; a miller letting the locals know by blowing through a triton shell; the villagers bringing their cereals to be ground into flour. Ta’ Kola Windmill is a unique relic of breadmaking in Gozo, transporting you back to such a morning. This 300-year-old building is a living testimony to our forefathers’ way of life, marked with hardships and daily struggles, at a time when bread was the most indispensable food item. The exhibits inside the windmill belonged to the last miller residing there and were used to operate and maintain the building and milling mechanism.
St Paul’s Catacombs Rabat
Leave the sights and sounds of modern life behind you as you step down into another world – a burial ground from Punic, Roman and Byzantine times, representing the earliest and largest archaeological evidence of Christianity in Malta. The catacombs form a typical complex of interconnected underground Roman cemeteries that were in use up to the 7th and possibly the 8th century AD. Part of the catacombs was re-utilised during the re-Christianisation of the island, around the 13th century, when an open space was re-cut and used as a Christian shrine decorated with murals.
Ħal Tarxien
Prehistoric Complex Ħal Tarxien
Have the honour and the privilege of stepping inside a UNESCO World Heritage Site! Discovered in 1913 by farmer Lorenzo Despott, the Ħal Tarxien Prehistoric Complex consists of four megalithic structures built in the late Neolithic and then re-adapted for use during the Early Bronze Age. The site was excavated between 1915 and 1919 by Sir Themistocles Zammit, Director of Museums at the time. This year marks the 110th anniversary since the first sketches of the site were made by Zammit himself during the initial excavations.
Borġ in-Nadur Prehistoric Complex Birżebbuġa
If you head down to the fascinating prehistoric site of Għar Dalam, don’t miss the opportunity to visit Borġ in-Nadur, located just 500m away. Excavated in the 1920s by eminent archaeologist Margaret Murray, Borġ in-Nadur yielded crucial information that helped our understanding of facets of Maltese prehistory, which had until then remained problematic, such as the differences between the Neolithic Period and the Bronze Age. Excavations conducted by David Trump in the 1950s uncovered Bronze Age huts, further enhancing the significance of this site.
Fort St Angelo Birgu
No other fortress has been engaged with the same intensity in the shaping of Malta’s destiny as Fort St Angelo! Known as Castrum Maris in medieval times, this stronghold was christened as Fort St Angelo by the Knights of the Order of St John, who turned it into their headquarters. They remodelled the building extensively with the construction of a series of artillery platforms that marked the introduction of the bastioned system of defence on these islands. During the British period, the fort served as a shore establishment of the Royal Navy in Malta until the last detachment of foreign forces marched out of its walls in March 1979.
Fort St Elmo and the National War Museum
Valletta
This year is very special for these two sites, as the National War Museum celebrates the 50th anniversary since its inception and Fort St Elmo commemorates the 10th anniversary since it opened its doors to the public. The splendid, unobstructed views of Grand Harbour, enjoyed today from Fort St Elmo, originally served the purpose for which the star-shaped fort was built – to face and hold back the wrath of the Ottoman armada. Indeed, the fort received the brunt of the Ottoman forces during the Great Siege of 1565, resisting for a month against all odds until finally surrendering on 23rd June. The National War Museum, located within the fort, covers 7,000 years of Maltese military history from the Bronze Age until Malta’s accession to the EU. Notable artefacts include military armour of the Order of St John and the Ottoman Turks, and Malta’s award for gallantry during World War II – the George Cross.
‘Lampuki’
Popeye Village
Dingli Cliffs
Rabat
Dingli
Buskett
‘Luzzu’
‘Qarnita’ Octopus
Statue of St Sebastian.
Church of St George.
The old area.
Words by David Carabott
David is a teacher, specialised in mentoring students of different abilities. As a traveller, his target is to visit all the countries in the world. When he is not in Malta or travelling elsewhere, you can find him somewhere in Rome.
A city with two pulses
Munich’s heart beats with deep-rooted history and hums with a laid-back modernity.
I had longed to visit Munich ever since I was an extra in the movie Munich, Steven Spielberg’s 2005 gripping depiction of the 1972 Munich Olympics tragedy partially filmed in Malta.
That story is so powerful that my involvement in it had sparked in me a longing to visit the Bavarian capital. Eventually, I found my way there.
The New Town Hall in Marienplatz.
From the moment I set foot on that beautiful land in southern Germany, I felt that I was in a city with two pulses – one beating with deep-rooted history; the other humming with a laid-back modernity.
WANDERING AROUND
As I made my way to Marienplatz, Munich’s central square, the striking silhouette of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) came into view – a towering neo-Gothic marvel with its famous glockenspiel. At noon, I joined a crowd of onlookers as the figurines danced out their re-enactment of a royal wedding and a barrel makers’ jig. It is touristy, yes, but also charming, almost defiantly proud of its traditions.
The deeper I ventured into the city, the more layers I uncovered. At the Residenz, the former royal palace of the Wittelsbach dynasty, I found opulence frozen in time: a sprawling complex showcasing centuries of art, architecture and history. One highlight is the Grottensaal, or Shell Grotto. Originally constructed in the late 1500s, it was destroyed during World War II and carefully rebuilt using thousands of shells donated by Bavarians from across the region. The sheer number of shells and the intricacy of the design are astounding.
A short distance away is another must-see, the Nymphenburg Palace, the grand former summer residence of the House of Wittelsbach, the former rulers of Bavaria. Its sweeping baroque architecture is complemented by vast formal gardens, tranquil
lakes and elegant pavilions. Walking through its expansive grounds, I felt like stepping into a fairy tale, a reminder of Bavaria’s regal past set amid serene nature.
Munich is also graced by the gentle flow of the Isar River, which winds through the city like a natural thread connecting its many neighbourhoods. Locals and visitors take advantage of the river’s banks for biking, jogging, or simply relaxing by the water. One sunny afternoon, I rented a bike and followed the Isar’s course, enjoying the mix of urban life and peaceful green spaces that make Munich so inviting.
One of my most peaceful moments in Munich came unexpectedly. I found myself wandering through the Englischer Garten, a massive green oasis right in the heart of the city. More than just a park, it is a living, breathing meeting place. Families picnicked in the shade, musicians strummed by the riverside and, to my surprise, surfers tackled the wave on the Eisbach stream with remarkable grace. Here, I could see how Munich manages to balance vibrancy and tranquillity. It is a city that is comfortable doing both.
In the evenings, Munich’s personality truly shines. One night, I wandered into Hofbräuhaus, the world’s most famous beer hall. I was not planning to stay long as I am not much of a beer drinker, but between the oom-pah band, the shared tables and the general good cheer, I stayed far longer than expected. There was something heartwarming about being handed a pretzel bigger than my head and clinking glasses with strangers.
FLAVOURS OF BAVARIA
I love discovering a place through its food, and Viktualienmarkt was a revelation. This open-air market just off Marienplatz has the soul of a village square. I walked past stalls overflowing with produce, cheeses and fresh flowers, soaking in the smells and the chatter of locals.
I joined a communal table under the shade of chestnut trees with a plate of Ente mit Rotkraut und Knödel, roast duck, often a leg or breast, served with potato dumplings and tangy braised red cabbage. The dish perfectly captured the hearty, comforting essence of Bavarian cuisine, especially when paired with a smooth, golden Helles beer from the famous Hofbräuhaus brewery. It was one of those meals I did not just eat but will fondly remember.
Other culinary delights were the delicious Weisswurst, a white sausage, and the crispy Schweinshaxe, a pork knuckle. Each dish offered me an authentic taste of Munich’s rich food heritage.
REBUILDING HISTORY, CHOOSING MEMORY
World War II left heavy scars on Munich, but the city chose restoration over reinvention. While Frankfurt opted to modernise, Munich
The Frauenkirche. Viktualienmarkt.
painstakingly restored its historic heart. As I wandered past the reconstructed St Peter’s Church and gazed up at the iconic onion domes of the Frauenkirche, I felt an undercurrent of resilience. These are not just pretty buildings; they are symbols of choice. Munich chose to remember.
The city’s museums are another testament to that memory. At the Alte Pinakothek, I stood before masterworks by Rubens and Dürer, while the Lenbachhaus introduced me to the vivid, emotional world of the Blue Rider movement. The Nazi Documentation Center, meanwhile, offered a sobering but essential experience – a clear-eyed look at Munich’s role in the rise of the Nazi movement. It was a very important visit, and the city does not shy away from telling the whole story.
PAST EMBRACES FUTURE
Everywhere I turned, I found thoughtful contrasts. The futuristic curves of BMW Welt, for instance, sit just a few miles from the ornate Nymphenburg Palace. One offers sleek modern design; the other, royal grandeur. And yet both feel perfectly at home in this city that refuses to choose between past and future.
A VILLAGE OF A MILLION PEOPLE
Despite its population of 1.5 million, Munich still feels intimate. Locals call it a Millionendorf, which literally means a village of a million people, and that feels exactly right. It is cosmopolitan without being overwhelming, historic without being stuck in the past. And whether I marvelled at baroque churches or rode on a bike along the Isar River, the city invited me to slow down, look closer and stay awhile.
AUF WIEDERSEHEN
I went to Munich because of a movie, but what I found was a city far more cinematic than anything a camera could capture. From its shellstudded palaces to its lively beer garden banter, the city feels alive with stories of its past, present and a future still being written.
The people of Munich and Bavaria are famously warm and welcoming, known for their genuine hospitality. I am eager to return to explore more of the city and connect with its friendly locals.
An escape to Bavaria’s most iconic castle .....
To top off my unforgettable stay in Munich, I took a magical day trip to the fairy-tale-like Neuschwanstein Castle of King Ludwig II, located about two hours from the city. Its enchanting architecture famously inspired Disney’s Sleeping Beauty castle.
Surrounded by crystalclear alpine lakes, it presents a picture so breathtaking and serene it felt like I was stepping into a dream I never wanted to wake up from.
Words by Alexandra Aquilina
An underrated gem in the heart of Germany
Hannover may not have the fame of Berlin or Munich, but it has a unique, quietly confident charm all of its own. With its perfect blend of culture, history, nature and creativity – plus the lack of tourist crowds – it’s an ideal place to slow down and explore at your own pace.
Alexandra is an entrepreneur, screen printer, musician and multi-media artist based between Malta and Berlin.
Roter Faden.
Often left out of Germany’s top tourist destinations, Hannover is definitely not a city to skip! Being the underdog has its perks – tourists often overlook this remarkable destination full of art, history, architectural gems and green spaces, making it a relaxed adventure immersed in local life.
One of the best parts of Hannover is how easy it is to get around. The city is compact and walkable, making sightseeing a breeze. You can explore different periods of history at your own pace without ending up exhausted. You might also spot a red line painted along some streets – this is the Roter Faden (Red Thread) – a four-kilometre self-guided walking trail connecting 36 key sights. Just follow the line and you’ll hit all the major landmarks! You can also grab a brochure or download the mobile app to go with it.
The tour starts at the Tourist Information Centre, near the main train station, where you can get your guide. I recommend heading straight to the Opera House – an award-winning neoclassical building hosting ballets, concerts and operas. Up next is the Aegidienkirche, a baroque church destroyed in World War II and now left in ruins as a poignant memorial to the victims of war and violence. It houses a Peace Bell donated by Hannover’s twin city, Hiroshima.
Like many German cities, Hannover has its own panoramic viewpoint – and it’s a good one! Head to the New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus) where you can ride a
Hidden gems and oddities of Hannover
Das Kleine Museum (The Little Museum)
Nestled in the Linden district, this cosy bar-restaurant is a whimsical cabinet of curiosities filled with vintage treasures and quirky décor. It serves German cuisine with a French twist, made from local ingredients, and often hosts live music and themed events. Reservations are recommended.
The Stepped Reckoner
One of the world’s first mechanical calculators, the Stepped Reckoner was created by Hannover-born polymath Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz. Weighing 14kg, it is considered a 17th-century marvel and is on display at the Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz Library.
The Musical Manhole
Not far from the Ernst August Monument, you might hear music drifting up from below. This playful installation, created by architect Timm Ohrt, features seasonal soundscapes by DJ Gullyman, turning an ordinary manhole into a spontaneous musical surprise.
The Momo Memorial
In the Zooviertel district, you’ll find a statue of Momo, the magical listener from Michael Ende’s beloved novel (same author of The NeverEnding Story). Sitting quietly with her oversized ear, Momo invites passersby to pause, reflect and maybe even share a story of their own.
The Vampire of Hannover Fritz Haarmann, infamously known as the Vampire of Hannover, was a notorious serial killer in the 1920s. His gruesome crimes have earned him a dark legacy, comparable to Jack the Ripper. A memorial to his victims can be found in the Stöckener Cemetery, serving as a sombre reminder of the city's eerie past.
The Aegidienkirche.
one-of-a-kind diagonal glass elevator, called the Kuppelaufzug, up to the top of the dome. On a clear day, you might even catch a glimpse of the Harz Mountains in the distance.
Another must-see on your walking tour is the Altstadt (Old Town). This charming historical core was carefully reconstructed after the war using salvaged timber and bricks. The cobbled streets are lined with quaint cafés, perfect for a relaxing break with some Kaffee und Kuchen. Don’t miss the Marktkirche, a stunning example of North German Brick Gothic architecture.
Hannover takes its green reputation seriously – the city boasts that a green space is just a 10-minute walk away from any point. And they’re not kidding! The most famous of these is the Herrenhäuser Gärten, among the finest baroque gardens in Europe. Don’t miss the Grotto redesigned by French artist and honorary Hannover citizen Niki de Saint Phalle, who transformed three rooms into a dreamlike space of mirrors, glass and sculpture. You’ll also see her colourful and curvy Nana sculptures around the Old Town – they’re hard to miss and impossible not to smile at.
No visit to a European city is complete without a market stop, and Hannover doesn’t disappoint. The weekly Saturday flea market along the river in the Old Town is a treasure trove of antiques and curiosities. For foodies, head to the Markthalle – dubbed the Bauch von Hannover (Belly of Hannover). This impressive food hall, with its elegant glass ceiling and over 50 stalls, offers a wide range of regional and international specialties, with a focus on local agriculture and traditional craftsmanship.
For nightlife and shopping, two of Hannover’s coolest neighbourhoods are Nordstadt and Linden. Both have serious Berlin vibes. Nordstadt is known for its multicultural, bohemian flair, historical architecture and artistic spirit. Don’t miss the Luther Church, and be sure to stroll through Welfengarten, a large park surrounding the university. In the evening, Engelbosteler Damm comes alive with street art, buzzing cafés and lively bars.
You can reach Hannover with KM Malta Airlines via Paris Charles de Gaulle with Air France, via Amsterdam with KLM, via Munich with Lufthansa, via Zurich with Swiss, via Vienna with Austrian Airlines, and via London Heathrow with British Airways.
Neues Rathaus.
Altstadt.
Herrenhäuser Gärten.
The Linden-Limmer district is another hot spot for creatives. Once a centre of textile production, it now hums with indie boutiques, pubs and cafés on every corner. The original weavers' houses still stand as a nod to its industrial past. Make time for a visit to the Faust Cultural Centre, a thriving venue for alternative arts and events, and the striking Ihme-Zentrum, a brutalist mega-complex that’s become a symbol of post-war urban development.
Of course, no holiday is complete for me without a visit to an art gallery. For modern art lovers, I highly recommend the Sprengel Museum, which focuses on German Expressionism and French Modernism. You’ll find works by Picasso, Klee, Ernst and, of course, more by Niki de Saint Phalle. A highlight is the immersive Light Room by James Turrell. For something different, check out the Museum August Kestner, home to antiquities and decorative arts, or the Wilhelm Busch Museum, which specialises in caricature, comics and illustration – a refreshingly offbeat concept you don’t often find.
Hannover may not have the fame of Berlin or Munich, but it has a unique, quietly confident charm all its own. With its perfect blend of culture, history, nature and creativity – plus the lack of tourist crowds – it’s an ideal place to slow down and explore at your own pace.
Whether you're wandering the Red Thread, relaxing in the gardens, or uncovering street art in Linden, Hannover is full of delightful surprises. So next time you’re planning a trip to Germany, don’t overlook the underdog. Give Hannover a chance, and it just might win your heart.
Words by Lea Hogg
Remembering the last Queen of Malta
Inside Valletta’s Casa Rocca Piccola, Baron Jerome de Piro’s coronation diary revives Malta’s close ties to the Crown and a decade of political unrest that reshaped the island’s future to independence.
Photos: Jonathan Borg.
Baron Jerome de Piro and his wife
Phyllis at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II.
This month marks the second anniversary of the passing of Queen Elizabeth II, and no place captures her chapter in Malta’s history quite like Casa Rocca Piccola, Valletta’s stunning 16th-century private palace and the ancestral home of the noble de Piro family.
More than just a museum, it remains the lived-in residence of the 8th Baron of Budach, Marquis Nicholas de Piro, and his wife, Ding. For the reflective traveller, Casa Rocca Piccola offers more than a glimpse into aristocratic life – it’s a portal into Malta’s history.
Casa Rocca Piccola preserves an atmosphere of old-world charm that blends history and family life. “We keep all the bric-a-brac too,” says Nicholas, “because without that, it wouldn’t feel like a real home but a stuffy, old museum”.
This sense of living history resonates deeply with Malta’s connection to Queen Elizabeth II. From 1964 to 1974, she reigned as constitutional monarch of a newly independent Malta that was finding its voice. But her ties to the island go back further. From 1953, when she was crowned Queen of the UK, she also held sovereignty over Malta, then still a Crown Colony within the British Empire.
Malta gained independence in 1964, and the Queen assumed a distinct constitutional role as Queen of Malta,
a title she held until the country became a republic in 1974.
Beyond Casa Rocca Piccola’s baroque courtyards and gilded drawing rooms lies a collection that’s as personal as it is historical: handwritten diaries and royal memorabilia that chart Malta’s evolving relationship with the Crown.
Among the treasures are the original invitations, carefully kept and slightly yellowing at the edges, sent by the Palace to Nicholas’s parents, inviting them to attend the 1953 coronation at Westminster Abbey, an event that deeply resonated in Malta, then still proudly flying the Union Jack.
The highlight of the collection are the personal diaries kept by Baron Jerome de Piro, who, along with his wife Phyllis, attended the coronation. His entries bring to life the details of a day that marked a defining moment in Malta’s shared history with the Crown.
In a quiet sitting room, surrounded by ancestral portraits and the subtle scent of old paper and polished wood, I sat with Nicholas, a celebrated author in his own right, with numerous published works to his name, as he carefully opened his father’s coronation diaries. The room felt expectant, and his voice, steady and clear, brought Queen Elizabeth’s coronation day at Westminster Abbey into sharp focus.
Marquis Nicholas de Piro.
From the Diary of Baron Jerome de Piro, 2nd June 1953
“The driver from the Palace appeared asking for Baron de Piro, holding a piece of paper with a code number written on it. He compared it to mine, which had been sent to me the evening before. Once satisfied I was neither an impostor nor a gatecrasher, he saluted, opened the door, and off we went.
The morning was bleak – rain, wind and cold. In fact, the sum total of the elements made one believe that no place but bed was anyone’s business until at least 9am. This part of London was literally locked in. People without a ticket for the stands were locked out. The streets were cleared, with military and civilian police at key corners, all saluting very smartly.
At six o’clock in the morning, Phyllis and I were sitting on our stools in Westminster Abbey, in the gallery of the north aisle of the nave. In theatrical terms, it was like sitting in the front row of a grand tier box. We settled in and hoped for the best, as we had no idea how long this vigil would last – only that it would end sometime late in the afternoon.”
The diary entries often circle back to Malta’s turbulent political climate at the time, a period Jerome was closely connected to. The early 1950s in Malta were marked by political instability following the brief premiership of Enrico Mizzi, whose death in 1950 ushered in a fragile coalition led by George Borg Olivier and supported by Paul Boffa’s Malta Workers' Party. As parties fractured and ideologies clashed, debates over integration with Britain or full autonomy intensified, setting the stage for Dom Mintoff’s 1955 election win and Malta’s contentious path to independence.
For Jerome, dedicated to public service, Malta’s political tensions were as personal as they were political, alive and debated even in London during the coronation, as his diary reveals. Malta’s uncertain future was never far from his mind.
On the eve of the coronation, Jerome dined at the Lansdowne Club in London with Mabel Strickland, a key figure in Malta’s constitutional debates, their conversation probing the delicate negotiations shaping the island’s destiny.
Later, at the Savoy Hotel, he met Prime Minister George Borg Olivier, where they discussed the fragile coalition government back home and the wider significance of the coronation for Malta’s evolving identity as a Crown Colony. Even in the shadow of imperial pageantry, Malta’s political future was a pressing reality, as Jerome recorded in his diary.
While families across the British Empire wore crêpe paper crowns and clutched glass coronation mugs at street parties in 1953, Baron Jerome de Piro was inside Westminster Abbey, watching it all unfold – not on a neighbour’s flickering television, but in person.
Beside him sat Baroness Phyllis, dazzling in Worth couture, as the pageantry played out in full regal splendour. The very scene that would be replayed for years in cinemas, heralded by the crow of the Pathé News cockerel, was, for him, no newsreel but a living memory captured forever in the pages of his diary with all the pomp and perfectly timed salutes of that unforgettable day.
Casa Rocca Piccola is open Monday to Saturday from 10am - 5pm (last admission at 4pm).
The tiara worn by Baroness Phyllis de Piro for the coronation.
The façade of Casa Rocca Piccola in Valletta.
Welcome
Situated in Valletta, Malta’s capital city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Teatru Manoel, Malta’s National Theatre, was built in 1731 by the Knights of St. John and is a unique example of early baroque architecture. It hosts the busiest theatrical season on the Island and is open for visits all year round.
Passaggi readers are eligible for a 20% discount on our daily visits. Kindly present this Promo Code at the booking office.
For more information, visit our website teatrumanoel.mt
Words by Lisa Gwen
Setting the (ART) scene
Beyond fireworks and festas, Malta’s art scene offers a quieter – but no less vibrant – celebration of creativity. Here’s an exhibition trail all mapped out: from historic bastions to hidden alleys, join this gallery-hopping journey through Valletta and beyond.
Feasts, festivals, fireworks… Malta is associated with much traditional fanfare during the warmer months of the year –marked especially by weekly village and town feasts, but also by wine and food festivals, concerts and lots of parties. Much of the action kicks off somewhere around late April or early May, with a steady crescendo, until the annual Santa Marija (15th August) festivities.
And yet, there is a vibrant visual arts scene, pulsating below the booms and bangs of the colourful displays of pyrotechnics. With a healthy number of independent art galleries, cultural centres, as well as museums with temporary exhibition spaces, the discerning cultural tourist, possessing a penchant for the visual arts, finds much fodder.
Hungry for beauty, Lisa is a writer and curator, working in the creative industry.
MICAS –Malta International Contemporary Art Space.
Valletta, the capital city, is a veritable hub of activity… in every sense of the word. It offers locals and tourists alike a richly-condensed experience, clad with opportunity to sample culture in Malta in the broadest of ways. Cafés and eateries abound – they call you into their midst, beckoning you to sip on flavoured lattes and indulge in decadent pastries, while the shops lining the main streets lure you inside with their brands, colours and promise of perfect purchases.
Not all experiences, however, carry a price tag. And the gallery experience – or what some of us casually refer to as ‘exhibition hopping’ – is entirely enriching, and generally free of charge, while simultaneously offering visitors and audiences a snapshot of contemporary art and culture in Malta.
During the shoulder months, there can be as many as three to four exhibitions launching on the same evening in Valletta (hence the term ‘exhibition hopping’) and most launches are also accessible to the public.
What I recommend: Grab a map of Valletta (you can also do this on Google Maps) – it's 0.6 square kilometres small yet packed with sufficient ‘goodies’ to serve you a week. Start your trajectory, or drop a pin, at Spazju Kreattiv on Castille Square. That marks an excellent point of departure, and it offers you plenty of opportunity to scan the harbour from a vantage point (this author also suggests using the Barrakka Lift to explore the Gardens, most especially if commuting by ferry from the Three Cities).
Your next stop should be MUŻA – the National Community Art Museum, which generally has as many as three to four exhibitions underway. Tip: Do check out the recently launched temporary exhibition gallery in the basement of the imposing Auberge d’Italie, in which the museum is housed.
After MUŻA, where you can also purchase a ticket to view the museum’s permanent collection, take a stroll through some of the busier streets and head towards the Malta Society of Arts (MSA), which can easily be found towards the latter end of Republic Street. The walk is worth it. You can always stop for an ice cream or coffee along the way, and if you need to rest for a few minutes, you can take a seat and soak in the grandeur of the Grand Master’s Palace façade in St George’s Square. Back to the MSA, it has strong artistic programming, with the visual arts offer being particularly noteworthy.
After the MSA, it’s time to explore some of the side roads, specifically St Paul’s Street, where you’ll easily stumble upon the Victor Pasmore Gallery –a gem of a place that recently had a glorious exhibition featuring the late Maltese artist Emvin Cremona.
The Malta Society of Arts.
ART
Jo Borg Gallery.
The next stop should be Valletta Contemporary, which is located on the eastern part of the peninsula, and a few metres away, you will also find Studio 87, just outside of Victoria Gate – which brings us almost full circle, especially when using the fast ferry from Gozo or that crossing from the Three Cities.
That’s just a taste of what the capital city has to offer. A similar trajectory can be mapped out in Sliema and St Julian’s for instance – which might be known as the commercial heart of the island, yet which, in recent years, has embraced a slow yet steady mushrooming of galleries, including 2B Gallery in the seaside tourist town.
Christine X Art Gallery, which was one of the first to open over 20 years ago has to make the list, together with R Gallery and Jo Borg Gallery – all three in close proximity and within walking distance of one another.
Otherwise, there are also a handful of galleries that stand alone in some unlikely yet charming localities such as Mqabba, Balzan and Marsascala.
For the longest time, the culture of the Maltese Islands was associated with traditional festivities, a rich history and heritage. Yet the contemporary art scene is in full bloom and is steadily proving to have an allure of its own, also enhanced by the Malta Biennale, launched in March 2024, and the opening of MICAS, Malta's first dedicated space to international contemporary art, which was launched in Floriana in October 2024.
The juxtaposition of contemporary art spaces ensconced within bastions and military builds or even converted townhouses and warehouses makes the gallery and exhibition experience in Malta a lot more engaging through the constant dialogue between the past and present.
Spazju Kreattiv.
Words by
This month’s must-see events EVENT SPOTLIGHT
The temperature may finally be dipping, but September is still popping with events, from community festivals and open-air concerts to mind-boggling blends of science and art, there’s plenty to enjoy before the back-to-school bell rings.
Opera in the Capital
When: 6th September
Where: St George’s Square, Valletta
An open-air concert under the stars in the heart of Valletta with soaring arias and sweeping orchestration. Featuring Cliff Zammit Stevens, Alan Sciberras and Nadine Axisa, under the baton of Ryan Paul Abela.
Swieqi Fest
When: 12th - 1 4th September
Where: Swieqi Civic Centre, Swieqi
This lively three-day festival celebrates creativity through art exhibitions, workshops and live music from top local acts. With plenty of free kids’ activities, crafts and performances, this community event is all about fun, culture and connection.
Stones to Peppers III
When: 12th September
Where: City Theatre, Valletta
Billed as the Final Chapter to this ongoing concert series, top local performers gather for a rock-tastic tribute to music legends. Sing your heart out with a line-up including Claudia Faniello, Sarah Bonnici, Chris Grech, Martina Borg, Neville Refalo and Ozzy Lino.
Dock Music 2025
When: 20th September
Where: Dock 1, Bormla
This free concert brings the party to Bormla’s historic dockyard, with brassfuelled fun from Drop-Out DJ Brass Band, with Fabrizio Faniello and Petra Zammit, followed by a pop-powered tribute set by Roy in the Legend, performing greatest hits from Elvis, Michael Jackson, Lady Gaga, Bruno Mars and more.
The Music of Andrew Lloyd Webber
When: 24th September
Where: Hilton Malta, St Julian’s
An all-out musical tribute to the maestro of musicals, Andrew Lloyd Webber, performed by the Gozo Youth Orchestra, a 55-piece children’s chorus, and powerhouse vocals. From The Phantom of the Opera to Cats, expect timeless hits from some of the world’s most iconic musicals.
Broadway Bound
When: 27th September
Where: MCC, Valletta
A night of big voices and even bigger tunes, as the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra and top local performers deliver Broadway’s best-loved showstoppers in grand style, drama and plenty of razzle-dazzle.
Inspired by true Maltese queer stories, this show is a love letter to a queer generation that went uncelebrated; their defiant joy, their deep connections and their resilience. Performed in Maltese, with English subtitles provided on select dates.
Science in the City
When: 26th & 27th September
Where: Various venues, Valletta
Malta’s national science and arts festival returns with the theme Past Forward. Through experiments, exhibitions, performances and more, the festival will explore how research and innovations from the past have shaped the world we know today.
TRADITIONAL FEASTS & CELEBRATIONS
The Nativity of Our Lady – Mellieħa
The village of Mellieħa celebrates the Nativity of Our Lady, locally known as Il-Bambina, on 8th September with one of the most passionate festas in Malta.
Recent years have seen the celebrations grow even more elaborate and spectacular, with marching bands, live concerts featuring local and international acts, and colourful fireworks displays synchronised to music lighting up the main piazza, which offers sweeping views of the island’s northern coastline.
The highlight comes in the evening, when a gleaming gold-gilded statue of Our Lady of Victories – carved from tree bark by Maltese sculptor Pietru Pawl Azzopardi – emerges from the parish church. Carried through the village streets on the shoulders of statue bearers, it’s accompanied by stirring band marches as the crowds sing out Marian hymns.
The celebrations end with the crowd joining in a heartfelt Ave Maria, just before the statue returns to the church and fireworks burst into the night sky.
For a guide to upcoming religious celebrations and traditional feasts across the Maltese islands, be sure to visit inkontru.app
INSTALL inkontru.app
Step into Malta’s scene with inkontru.app, your personal guide to all the latest art, culture and heritage events in Malta and Gozo. More than just a calendar, the app connects you with exciting events and artists through exclusive interviews and video features. Easily find event details, get directions and purchase tickets – all in one place. Need a ride? Book a cab effortlessly through the app and share your plans with friends and family with ease.
Photo: Saviour Fenech.
CHRISTINE X ART
JOHAN SIGGESSON I HORSES OF SALT & WIND
When: 18th September to 4th October
Where: Christine X Art Gallery, Sliema
In Horses of Salt and Wind, the acclaimed wildlife photographer Johan Siggesson turns his lens toward one of nature’s most poetic spectacles — the white horses of the Camargue. Set against the stark, untamed beauty of southern France’s salt marshes, this black and white photographic series transcends documentation, inviting viewers into a world shaped by motion, myth and the elements.
info@christinexart.com (+356) 9984 4653
CHRISTINE X ART
POETICS OF SPACE – A COLLECTIVE ART EXHIBITION
When: 11th - 27th September
Where: 1926 La Galerie, Old Theatre Street, Valletta
Poetics of Space is an intimate collective exhibition that delves into the serene beauty of interior environments. Through a carefully curated selection of paintings, the exhibition explores the quiet, contemplative moments found within personal and domestic spaces. Emphasizing light, texture and perspective, these works reveal the nuanced poetry embedded in everyday interiors, inviting viewers to reflect on the emotional and poetic layers of seemingly simple settings.
info@christinexart.com (+356) 9984 4653
TEN08
ONE VISION OF QUEEN NYE LIVE
Make your New Year’s Eve 2026 magical – Malta’s most unforgettable celebration awaits! Marc Martel and One Vision of Queen ignite the stage with Queen’s most iconic anthems – live in concert! As heard in the Oscarwinning movie Bohemian Rhapsody, Martel’s voice is the closest you’ll get to Freddie Mercury himself. A super line-up of local and international talent awaits! Ready to rock? Get your tickets now from showshappening.com before they’re gone!
BENJI CACHIA
AKSHARA LIVE IN CONCERT AT THE RED TOWER
Benji Cachia, AKA Banjo Rancho, a household name in Malta’s percussive/music scene, will be performing an extended version from his solo album, Akshara, at St Agatha's Tower in Mellieha on 5th September between 7pm - 9.30pm. The live performance is filled with rhythms and sounds from around the world, including Maltese folkloric instruments, and features guest artists from different art forms to capture the full experience of Akshara. Held at one of Malta’s iconic historical sites, Torri L-Aħmar, with its amazing backdrop, this eclectic musical experience promises to craft a rich, immersive sound that traverses borders and genres. Benji Cachia and his team are collaborating with Din l-Art Ħelwa and VisitMalta to offer the event for free. The audience is encouraged to bring their own chair/blanket.
INKONTRU.APP MEETS...
We go behind the scenes with conductor Ryan Paul Abela, who shares what to expect from this year’s Opera in the Capital and what keeps him inspired on the podium.
What’s different about conducting classical music vs pop or rock?
Each genre brings its own unique language and energy. When conducting opera or classical repertoire, there’s a deep respect for structure, nuance and tradition. The conductor acts almost like a sculptor, shaping long musical phrases with care. In contrast, with genres like pop or rock, there’s often more flexibility and a need to support the rhythm section tightly. Groove and timing are key.
How do you keep opera fresh for new audiences?
I believe the key is in storytelling and accessibility. With Opera in the Capital, we focus not only on vocal excellence but also on the theatricality and relevance of the presentation, making sure the staging, pacing and emotional delivery resonate with contemporary audiences. I also work closely with the orchestra to bring a cinematic energy to the score. Opera has always been dramatic. Our job is to make sure modern audiences feel that drama viscerally, not just historically.
What’s in store for this year’s Opera in the Capital?
This year’s edition promises both grandeur and intimacy. We’ve curated a programme that spans beloved classics and lesser-known gems, performed by exceptional soloists and supported by a rich, full orchestra. There are a few theatrical twists and visual surprises we’ve integrated into the staging. Without giving too much away, let’s just say we’re bringing opera closer to the audience than ever before.
WORKSHOPS & MASTERCLASSES
It’s a great month for costume and fashion creatives thanks to these exciting workshops ideal for anyone looking to sharpen their design skills and get inspired.
Designing Shakespeare
When: 6th & 7th September
Where: Teatru Salesjan, Sliema
Explore the art of storytelling and character building through costume and prop design. Learn hands-on techniques to imagine, design and create costumes for Shakespearean characters using found materials and other upcycled resources.
FiftySix Design Talks
When: 24 September
Where: Valletta Design Clutter, Valletta
This monthly workshop brings together designers, makers and design enthusiasts to explore and discuss design practices and projects.
Discover and experience more with inkontru.app, your web-based application that prioritises functionality and performance, meaning no need to download, seamless updates, no storage space taken and easy sharing. Enjoy!
Ryan Paul Abela.
Words by Shirley Jobson
Shirley moved to Gozo a few years ago to enjoy its calmer pace with her English husband. After working as cabin crew for several years, she is now a freelance writer and proofreader who loves discovering Gozo’s little secrets.
Soulful Strolls and Farmyard Fun: Heart-warming Animal Adventures
Animal lovers, get ready to explore Gozo and create lasting memories through these unforgettable and interactive equine experiences.
Being around animals is often a major highlight in the lives of many. Offering companionship in the madness of their daily routine, they can be uplifting and therapeutic. Animals have simple expectations; they make no impossible demands from us, apart from feeding them and spending time with them. They accept us the way we are and love us with an unconditional abundance that humans often struggle with.
As writer Anatole France once affirmed: “Until one has loved an animal, a part of one’s soul remains unawakened.” It is, therefore, no small wonder that there are numerous passionate animal lovers around Malta and Gozo.
The smaller island of Gozo presents several spacious green areas, countryside hiking trails and cliff paths with stunning views, where you can spend time in nature and enjoy long walks with a beloved pet. If you are a dog owner, you probably have, at some point, taken your furry friend for a cooling dip at a dog-friendly Gozitan beach – and likely let them off the lead to play freely at one of the fun dog parks located in the limits of both Qala and Xagħra.
But even if you do not own a pet, there are several animal-related activities around the island that are sure to create unforgettable moments for both locals and tourists. In fact, if you fancy something completely out of the ordinary, a visit to Gozo Alpaca Walks, a petting farm in Xewkija, has to be on your to-do list.
For a small fee, which helps with the running costs of the place, you can mingle with a variety of birds, including peacocks, roosters, chickens, pheasants and turkeys, as well as adorable goats and dwarf rabbits.
But the main attractions here are definitely the six alpacas, which form part of the family-run farm: the adult male, Coleiro; the three female adults, Snow White, Maya and Belle; and the two youngsters, Biscuit and Layla.
So, you may ask, what exactly are alpacas? These woolly, longnecked mammals are often mistaken for llamas, but alpacas are actually their smaller and more affable cousins. Alpacas not only look different from llamas; they are also quite shy, they have cuter facial features and soulful expressions, they are intelligent enough to be taught tricks, and more importantly, they do not spit – unlike their temperamental relatives!
When you arrive at the farm, you are first taken to be introduced to these charming creatures, after which you will have the opportunity to take a few of them out for a leisurely stroll along a nearby country lane. The alpacas love nothing better than to help you unwind, as they amble by your side and enjoy the occasional cuddle. They even know when to stop and pose for that memorable selfie with you.
On your return to the farm, you can hand-feed all the alpacas with some tasty nibbles and take your time to connect with them further in their spacious enclosure, while also relishing close contact with the other creatures flocking around the place. These wholesome encounters will undeniably leave you with a smile that will linger long after you have left this unique farm.
Many other delightful pastimes with equine animals may also be enjoyed on this little rock. If you love donkeys, there are locals
Gozo Alpaca Walks.
who are happy to invite both adults and children to accompany them for free when they take their larger-than-normal pets out on their daily exercise walk in the countryside. Youngsters may even hop on for a short donkey ride on flat ground.
Horse riding is yet another favourite diversion for many. What better way to explore the lush greenery surrounding Gozo’s quaint villages than from the vantage point of the back of a horse, accompanied by the rhythmic clip-clopping of hooves? There are a few stables dotted around the island that may easily serve this purpose, but one place that goes the extra mile is the Dreams of Horses Farm on the outskirts of Xagħra.
This “multi-purpose therapy centre” maximises the benefits from the relationships between humans and animals by providing animalassisted therapy and learning programmes for visitors. Through these personal connections with animals, people with physical, social and emotional issues can find help in boosting their self-confidence and social integration.
Among the domestic species found at the specialised care farm are horses, donkeys, dogs, cats, goats, sheep, pigs and birds. Horses, in particular, are capable of responding naturally to non-verbal cues from humans and reflecting back their thoughts and emotions with effective clarity. Some of these animals have been rescued and rehabilitated, finding purpose through their interactions with people.
Dreams of Horses also offers team-building events and workshops for employees, while educational programmes for schools help children foster a deeper love for all animals. Moreover, families and friends may choose from various customisable packages that will guarantee a fun-filled day at this lovely location. You can discover first-hand what working on a farm entails; walk their lovable ponies in the countryside; and become acquainted with the magnificent horses to understand how you can forge a natural bond with them.
Engage with animals through these diverse activities on the beautiful island of Gozo for an interactive experience that will create lasting memories.
Dreams of Horses.
Words by Thomas Camilleri
Creative director by day and actor by night, Thomas also founded Lazarus Tiles, a project through which he saves and documents Malta's cement tile heritage.
Paint, paper and place
Two architect sisters found unexpected creative freedom during a moment of boredom – not with blueprints, but with watercolours. What started as a side project turned into k.arti, a homegrown stationery brand capturing the island’s details one brushstroke at a time.
As you fly over Malta, you’ll notice pockets of our urban environment, mostly in shades of beige, the colour of our naturally sourced limestone. For millennia, we have fashioned our built heritage from this bountiful resource. Even today, when construction with other materials has become the standard, we still clad our buildings with this honeycoloured stone, grounding and connecting us to our little rock in the Mediterranean.
For some local architects though, the chance to be truly creative is often found in personal pursuits. If their profession tends to require simplicity and profit-centric design, they are left with an artistic itch to scratch. For sisters Becky and Greta Delicata, both young architects, this was compounded by the inspirational boredom that the 2020 pandemic lockdown brought with it.
We often talk about how we’ve lost the chance to be bored – and all the wonderful ideas that come out of it. Luckily for these two sisters, they were living together at the time, and they jointly channelled this creative energy into their ever-growing side gig, k.arti.
For those of you who don’t speak Maltese, the full stop between k and arti creates a play on the word karti, which means papers, by also emphasising the art, arti, in what they do.
“I had this small palette of watercolour paints that I hadn’t touched in at least six years,” reminisces Becky. “I painted this card for my mum and started thinking of how I could transfer this little artwork to a more refined item. That’s where the idea bloomed.”
And from these cards blossomed tote bags, diaries, organisers, bookmarks and all manner of beautiful stationery, characterised by original artworks, often featuring floral designs and Maltese flora, and emphasizing the use of ethically sourced materials.
Greta chimes in about the ironic dichotomy of k.arti and their professions: “As much as I genuinely love architecture, it can sometimes be challenging to feel creatively fulfilled, especially in a context like Malta, where the focus tends to lean more towards practicality and efficiency over design-led thinking.
“So, k.arti really started as a creative outlet; a way to explore ideas more freely. And then it just grew from there, especially when we saw how positively people were responding to what we were creating.”
Photos: Daniel Vella. Becky and Greta Delicata.
In fact, it was this success that led them to bring their mother Maria on board, jolting her out of her sabbatical into this new adventure. “In the beginning, it was mostly preparing and delivering orders that came through our social media platforms, wrapping wedding invitation suites and taking care of our first stockists,” Maria says.
“As the business grew, the need for a more handson approach meant taking on more responsibility and structuring my days to fit in more hours around k.arti. Once the website was launched, we decided that I would handle the logistics to allow Becky and Greta to concentrate more on production and the creation of new material” – after all, it would have been a shame for the artists to sacrifice the artistic for the administrative once again.
When I discovered the brand, I was drawn to it primarily because it was like viewing something I knew so well through a different lens. Our visual vernacular is often reproduced to sell to tourists, and this often stifles creativity.
On the other hand, k.arti was born out of a desire to communicate at a time when we felt so disconnected. It wasn’t originally created with visitors in mind, but rather for the Maltese and those resident on the islands to find joy in the ordinary – plants, insects and flowers, as well as everyday moments and landscapes. Funnily enough, this is perhaps why it resonates so well with foreigners.
“We've found that tourists love our products because they capture small details of the local landscape in Malta,” Becky elaborates. “The stationery is almost like little snapshots of the feelings they experienced during their time here – and something with a local touch, making it more personal and meaningful than a typical souvenir. It's such a beautiful feeling when we see people from different countries connecting with the same things that inspire us.”
So, what’s up next? The bespoke side of the business is growing – an aspect of their work that has flourished mainly thanks to all the artworks they have designed for local weddings.
“This year, we’re focusing on expanding our bespoke side of the business, while still working on releasing a full collection by the end of the year. It’s not always easy balancing k.arti with our architecture work, and sometimes, we don’t always manage to complete all the plans we set out to at the beginning of the year. That said, we have high hopes for k.arti and are super excited for all the new work we’ll be releasing,” says Becky.
SCAN TO EXPLORE
Words by Lea Hogg
Rolling through time –Malta’s boċċi legacy
Introduced during the rule of the Knights of St John, the game of boċċi has since evolved from playground pebbles to sleek, cylinder-shaped balls that are hurled with precision across purposebuilt shaded courts in many of Malta’s towns and villages.
Photos: Jonathan Borg. Mattias Vassallo.
After visiting three boċċi clubs across Malta, I discovered a tradition quietly fighting for survival. Between worn-out pitches and fiercely loyal players, boċċi reveals both the challenges and the quiet joys of a sport that is still very much alive on the island.
A close cousin to French boules, boċċi is a lifelong commitment for many players. The island of Gozo, I’m told, has its own version of the game. Yet, like many local sports, it faces the pressure of screen-based, globalised entertainment.
Mario Buttigieg, a long-time player and member of the Federazzjoni tal-Logħob tal-Boċċi in Malta, has seen the game evolve over decades. “I started playing boċċi when I was just eight years old in Lija,” he recalls. “My family didn’t play, but I’d be out on the swings in the village playground with friends, and then we’d naturally move on to the boċċi court. That’s how my love of the game began.”
Mario has spent the last 40 years playing at clubs across Malta. “As a player, you need commitment,” he says. “This isn’t a casual hobby. You have to train, attend every meeting and event, and be there for your team.”
Today, only 28 clubs remain, down from 40. Most are concentrated in the south of Malta. “Places like Naxxar and Sliema don’t have clubs anymore,” Mario notes. While some players compete in structured leagues, many turn up simply out of passion.
For the federation, the biggest hurdle is financial. “Running the website, buying trophies – it all adds up,” he says. “The federation doesn’t have sponsors, though some individual clubs are fortunate to have some financial backing.”
Then there’s the age gap. “Most players are over 50,” he explains, “and without younger players and proper sponsorship, promoting boċċi to a new generation is a struggle.”
One of those keeping the spirit alive is Johnny Borg, a veteran who has been involved with boċċi for over 35 years. “My father played, and I picked it up from him,” he says. “Now I play for the Buġibba team, but I travel to play at other clubs too. It’s very social and that’s what I love most.”
Johnny sees hope on the horizon. “There are about 30 serious young players coming up nationally,” he says. “We hope it’s not just an old man’s game.”
Boċċi courts are often attached to restaurants and bars, making them social hubs. “Ħal Għaxaq, for instance, is a great place to dine while watching a match,” he adds.
This fusion of sport and social life is best exemplified by the Lija Boċċi Clubhouse, known beyond boċċi circles for good food and wine. From Friday nights all
through the weekend, finding a casual table is nearly impossible. It’s this unique blend that helps keep the game alive despite modern challenges.
During the 1970s, boċċi had a stronghold in Floriana, where players from around the island met. In 1981, the federation was officially formed, providing boċċi enthusiasts with a formal structure, establishing clubs in local towns.
Johnny himself plays four to five evenings a week. “There’s been a bit of a revival in the last couple of years,” he believes. “Some events can draw crowds of up to 700 people. But we need to do more. Schools were starting to introduce boċċi, but that stopped. I’d love to see more education on traditional Maltese games in schools.”
Even with occasional large events, Johnny sees the need for better infrastructure. “A national stadium where finals can be held would give the sport the spotlight it deserves,” he says. “Right now, matches like today’s Champions League game in Tarxien are played across club venues. Each fixture has a referee, and clubs host each other in a home-andaway system. This year, the Żejtun Boċċi Club is favourite to win.”
For Johnny, the connection is deeply personal. “I used to play with my father in Pietà, then for Qormi,
Żurrieq, and now Buġibba. Few friendships can compare to those built on the boċċi court because we share something unique.”
But if the sport is to survive, he warns, the federation must attract new blood. “Right now, the youngest player we have is nine years old.”
During an away match at the Santa Luċija Boċċi Club, we met 11-year-old Mattias Vassallo. He is one of Malta’s most promising young players, already the proud winner of several coveted trophies. Representing the Centru Boċċi San Ġwann, Mattias’ love for the sport radiates from him.
“I’ve been playing for three years,” he says proudly. “I love it because it’s traditional and part of our heritage. There are only three kids at the club, and I’m the only one in my family who plays.”
While many children his age are glued to screens, Mattias prefers the boċċi court. “Instead of spending time on my PlayStation, I like being outside. It’s relaxing, and I enjoy learning from the older, more experienced players. I believe more children should get involved.”
Boċċi’s survival rests in the hands of kids like Mattias. As veterans put it, without a new generation and proper support, the game may die quietly.
Words by Adriana Bishop
Adriana is a former news journalist and travel PR executive, now a freelance writer based in Switzerland, with her heart and eyes always set on her forever home Malta.
Meet Mr Malta: oneexpat’slifelong love for the island
Colin Backhouse first visited as a child with his family. Then a lifechanging event cemented his love for Malta. Now, 45 years later, Colin and his Facebook group Malta Holiday Experiences are the go-to reference for everyone, tourists and locals alike.
When Colin Backhouse first set foot in Malta as a 12-year-old on a family holiday in 1980, he couldn’t have imagined how deeply the island would embed itself in his life.
Now, 45 years later, the Bradford-born, Sunderland-raised expat is considered an honorary Maltese by thousands — from nostalgic locals to first-time tourists — who turn to his Facebook group, Malta Holiday Experiences, for honest, heartfelt and up-to-date insights on everything from hidden beaches to the best English breakfast in town.
You might expect locals to be the ultimate experts on their own country. But sometimes, it takes the fresh eyes of a devoted outsider to remind us of what makes a place truly special.
As a Maltese person who has lived abroad for half my life, I get it. Every time I land back home, my heart leaps with pure joy, much the same way Colin’s did on his very first visit. Over the decades, he has transformed that feeling into a passion project that now connects over 54,300 followers with the Malta he loves: vibrant, evolving and full of stories.
He may yet to apply for his Maltese citizenship despite moving permanently to Malta in 2014, but his love and knowledge of the island is second to none, and I say that as a local.
I confess I am one of those followers who regularly check out his unbiased reviews on the latest bar/restaurant/hotel/sight to visit and get a dose of home whenever I am feeling homesick. And I am not the only Maltese in the group. Colin revealed that even a former Tourism Minister is a regular follower, along with countless Maltese living in Australia and the US, many of whom had left the island several decades ago.
But how did Colin’s love affair begin? Rewind to 1980 when his parents decided to copy their next-door neighbours and booked a family holiday to the Mediterranean island.
“I was 12. In those days, not many people went abroad, and if they did, they normally went to places like Spain. I think, in that year, the whole street went to Malta after the neighbours visited,” Colin reminisces.
And he was smitten from the moment he stepped on the plane, which he still remembers with extraordinary detail. Malta’s national airline at the time was called Air Malta and the nearest airport to their house was Newcastle, with flights departing at 1am and landing at sunrise.
“We flew on the old Boeing 720B four-engine aircraft, a very iconic plane in Air Malta’s portfolio,” he recalls.
The family stayed in Balluta Bay, then a very quiet residential area between Sliema and St Julian’s. “There was nothing there for tourists except for the little kiosk in the square.” Holidays from the UK were organised by the Maltese Movement and accommodation was in a large, no-frills apartment that was originally part of a complex built for servicemen in the 1960s.
The family returned to Malta again every year. Then in 1983, a “life-changing event sank Malta in the system even more” and the holiday destination suddenly came to mean so much more to Colin and his family.
“We were staying in an apartment overlooking St Paul’s Bay that year. One day, we went to Pretty Bay in Birżebbuġa. We were walking along the beach, and I spotted something floating in the water. It was a very young
child; she was around two years old. She was unconscious. My brother-in-law Ian ran into the water to pull her out and managed to resuscitate her.
“The next day, there was a knock on the door of our apartment. It was the little girl’s uncle, Paul Debono, who was a policeman at the time. He had managed to track us down and invited our entire family back to his home for a celebration to thank us.”
From that day on, the two families became firm, lifelong friends. When Paul passed away a couple of years ago, Colin was by his side. That girl, Audrey, is now in her 40s, and in 2006, Colin and his family were all invited to her wedding in Lija, just as Audrey attended the wedding of Colin’s niece – the daughter of her rescuer – this August in Malta.
“It was a full circle kind of thing,” Colin says.
Colin first travelled to Malta with his now wife Mandy in 1985, and they continued visiting around four or five times each year until, in 2014, they decided to make their holiday destination a permanent address.
They moved to Mellieħa, which they considered “a safe option” as there were many British people living there. “It was easy to settle there, and it felt like a permanent holiday.”
However, they soon started looking for somewhere more central that would make their work commute a little easier.
It was at around the same time that Colin came across the Malta Holiday Experiences group on Facebook, which had been launched by two tourists, Daniel and Romeo. “It literally had no followers. I started posting minimal content, and I soon realised it was my niche and started getting a lot of likes.”
Daniel and Romeo asked Colin to become the admin of the group, and it soon grew from just 2,000 followers to a global community of 54,300, and counting.
While the majority are British, Colin says he gets messages from followers from all over the world. It proved to be a point of contact during the dark days of the pandemic when travel was impossible and people were stuck miles away, missing family and friends.
“I supported so many people during Covid. I was sending photos to people in Australia just
because they couldn’t get here.” Some followers even became lifelong friends, like the saxophonist who travelled to Malta to play at his niece’s wedding.
Keeping the content fresh is hard work (no, really) on top of his full-time job as a senior safer gaming analyst with a French iGaming company based in Sliema. On most days, within 10 minutes of clocking off work, he and Mandy are out the door exploring, trying out new bars and restaurants.
“I do it for the love of Malta, not for the money. I help people plan their holidays, but I get no money from this,” he points out, adding that, at most, he might get a free beer from a bar to thank him for a review he would have previously posted as a full-paying customer.
“Even if just five more people try a place (because of a review), I count that as a success.”
Colin occasionally gets invited to review new hotels and, in some cases, he’s been called in to give his honest appraisal of an accommodation property that might be suffering from bad press due to ongoing construction works nearby.
“I’ve become an advocate for all things Malta, but I don’t give bad reviews. If I get bad service, I just give the place a miss next time, but I wouldn’t give them a negative review because I never know the background. Malta is evolving minute by minute. You could go to a restaurant this week and it’s great, then the chef walks out and you return the week after and the food is different. Or maybe you visit on a bad day when they have staff shortage.”
Having established himself on Facebook, Colin is now turning his attention to TikTok. “Facebook is dying a slow death. It is not the way forward. Malta seems to be trending quite a lot with the younger generation and that’s why videos on TikTok are so popular.”
Case in point, a little clip of a new business in St Paul’s Bay amassed 25,000 views in just a few days – “their phone never stopped ringing” – while a very informal video of a trattoria in Balzan hit 16,000 views.
So, what I really want to know is, which is Mr Malta’s favourite place? When I first approached Colin for this interview, he replied by sending me a photo of a new rooftop bar overlooking the majestic parish church of Naxxar.
“Let’s meet here,” he said. Unfortunately, our schedules never coincided so our meeting occurred over WhatsApp, with me sitting in the Swiss Alps, and him in Jersey.
Colin Backhouse and Mandy on their first visit to Malta in 1985 (above) and more recently.
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“Wrong island,” I chide him.
“Yes, sometimes even I need to get away,” he laughs.
During the Covid-19 lockdowns, he started taking his two dogs out for long walks as far away as possible from urban areas and discovered the small hamlet of Baħrija outside Rabat, which has now become a firm favourite with the Backhouses. He is a regular at the North Country restaurant there, where he loves their authentic Maltese menu.
In fact, Colin has a personal plea to all visitors: get off the beaten track. Malta is much more than Sliema, St Julian’s, Valletta and Mdina. The villages are veritable hidden gems, and he hopes tourists will have the “courage” to go that extra mile to discover them, especially those on all-inclusive packages.
“People who have never been to Malta do not understand the geography of the island. They stop in one resort and do not realise there are other places to see. I’d love people to try more village life in Malta; to take themselves away from the mainstream tourist hot spots.
“One thing that puzzles me is that people say they stop going to Malta, but go to Gozo because it is quieter. In Gozo, they go to the little villages, but they never go to the little villages in Malta.
“My aspiration is to try and get people to see the other side of Malta; the up-and-coming areas that need a bit of publicity. Baħrija may be packed on a weekend, but mid-week it is empty.”
So, when is the best time to visit? “May and the first two weeks of June are probably the most perfect time to come to Malta. It is just warm enough for a British person to swim and you can walk around or sit out on a terrace without getting too hot.”
Colin has witnessed many changes to the island over the past 45 years, and he’s got his opinion on what works and what doesn’t, but there is no doubt that his love for the Malta remains strong.
suggets
Colin’s favourites
VKlabb,Lija:
One of my favourites for steak and fresh food; very small, personalised service. If you go a few days before and ask for a particular fish, they’ll get in touch with the fishmonger and get it for you, fresh off the line.
NorthCountry,Baħrija:
Traditional Maltese food for when you want to get away from it all.
OldCharm,Naxxar:
Housed in a centuries-old Maltese building, with an open fire in winter, this Indian-style restaurant is owned by a British guy and his Indian wife. The food is superb.
TheConfession,Rabat:
I gave the bar owner, James Aquilina, two bottles of Lindisfarne Mead. I wonder what cocktails he’ll create with that.
SengleaSuites:
This 400-year-old building was a wreck when Michael and Eric bought it. They have transformed it beautifully and furnished it with pieces they salvaged and upcycled from the Vittoriosa flea market. Every room is different.
LeRegattarestaurant,Senglea: Stunning!
Colin’s top tips for the perfect holiday in Malta
Visit White Tower lido in the North of Malta for a lovely sandy beach.
Dine out in a local village such as Lija, Baħrija, Balzan, Attard among many others.
Hire a car to see the hidden gems of Malta.
Take a four-hour boat charter with a skipper.
A night out in Valletta.
Spend a day exploring the Three Cities, using the traditional boat and then follow this up on land.
Words by Ruth Zammit DeBono
(while Roy enjoys a well-earned late summer break)
Ruth is a passionate traveller, artist and devoted dog mum, who finds joy in storytelling and discovering the world always with her pet by her side.
Your dog’s pre-flight checklist
Flying with your dog for the first time?
Here’s everything you need to know (from one dog mum to another).
If you’ve been thinking about taking your dog on a plane for the first time – whether it’s a weekend escape to Sicily or something bigger – welcome to the club. I still remember that blend of excitement and mild panic the first time I booked a flight with my dog, not just for him. It felt like I was suddenly responsible for a tiny, fluffy passenger with absolutely zero sense of airport etiquette.
Roy, my miniature poodle and seasoned travel buddy, has since become an expert flyer. But right now, he’s on late summer leave: snoozing in air-conditioned rooms and dipping his paws in the sea.
So this month, it’s me, Ruth, stepping in to guide you through the essentials. If you’re a first-timer flying with your pup (or just want a few pro tips for smoother skies), here’s what you really need to know.
BEFORE YOU BOOK ANYTHING
Vaccines & Microchip
Your dog will need a microchip and a valid rabies vaccination. This is non-negotiable, especially if you’re flying within the EU. If it’s your dog’s first rabies jab, you’ll need to wait at least 21 days before travelling.
Within the EU, an EU Pet Passport is your best friend. It’s a small booklet with all your dog’s health records – like a mini travel diary, but less poetic and more official. You can get your pet passport sorted directly at your vet’s clinic; they’ll take care of the microchip scan, update the rabies records, and issue the passport booklet on the spot if everything’s in order.
Check the Airline’s Pet Policy
Not all airlines allow pets in the cabin, which is exactly why I choose to fly with KM Malta Airlines whenever I can. Their pet-friendly cabin policy makes it so much easier for dog mums like me to travel stress-free with our four-legged companions. Just make sure to always check each airline’s rules, even within Europe.
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PACKING FOR YOUR PUP
A few items that always go in Roy’s flight bag:
• A soft, airline-approved carrier (one that fits under the seat in front of you)
• A small absorbent liner or puppy pad inside the carrier Collapsible water bowl
One or two favourite treats (skip full meals before flying)
A comfort item like a toy or a scarf that smells like home Poop bags and pet wipes (trust me on this)
If your pup hasn’t used a carrier before, give them time to get used to it at home. Make it a safe, cosy space well before the travel day.
BEFORE TAKE-OFF: VET VISIT & PAPERWORK
I still like to pop into the vet around a week before flying – not just to make sure Roy’s all set, but because this is when they officially declare your dog fit to fly and, if needed, administer any treatments required by the destination. Some EU countries, for instance, ask for a tapeworm treatment within a specific timeframe, and this must be recorded in the pet passport. While Roy is now so used to travel he just naps through the whole flight, that pre-travel vet visit is still a must.
Also, if you’re returning to Malta with your dog, don’t forget to submit the pet arrival notification form at least a few days in advance – you’ll find it on servizz.gov.mt
AT THE AIRPORT
Arrive early – earlier than you think. Between check-in, security and a final pre-flight bathroom break (for the dog, not you!), time can move fast.
Many airports now have pet relief areas. Malta International Airport doesn’t yet, so I always give Roy a final walk before entering the terminal. I carry extra wipes in case of accidents inside the carrier (though he’s never had one – he’s far too proud).
Most airlines require dogs to stay zipped up in their carriers once on board. As tempting as it is to peek, it’s best to let them settle in – they usually sleep once the engine hum kicks in.
WHAT I’VE LEARNED ALONG THE WAY
• Your energy is everything. Dogs pick up on your mood. Stay calm and they’ll follow your lead.
• Book early. Airlines only allow a limited number of pets per flight.
• Take a test run. Before flying, try a long bus or ferry ride with your dog in the carrier. It helps them get used to the sensation of being in motion in a small space.
• Celebrate the little wins. First flight without a fuss? That’s worthy of a pupuccino and a selfie.
Flying with your dog might feel overwhelming at first – I’ve been there. But with the right prep (and a deep breath), it becomes part of your travel rhythm. And watching your dog nap at 30,000 feet, knowing you’ve just unlocked a whole new kind of adventure together? There’s nothing quite like it.
If you’ve got questions, our Instagram DMs (@pupspaintandprosecco) are always open. Roy may be on holiday, but we’re always ready to help another dog-and-human duo take flight.
Wishing you tail wags and turbulence-free skies!
Cabin travel is allowed for small cats and dogs weighing up to 10kg (including the carrier).
Carrier requirements: soft, leak-proof and well-ventilated. It must fit under the seat in front of you.
Booking in advance is essential. There’s a limited number of pet spots on each flight.
Your pet must stay in the carrier for the duration of the flight.
Fees apply. Check kmmaltairlines.com for the most up-to-date rates and information.
From boarding gates to belly rubs, the journey doesn’t stop here – follow @pupspaintandprosecco on Instagram for more paws, prosecco and pup-approved places.
Words by Janica Buhagiar, Heritage Malta
THE SHADOW BENEATH THE SUN: MALTA’S DARKER ALLURE
When most travellers imagine Malta, they picture sun-drenched harbours, gilded churches and postcard-perfect limestone lanes. But beneath this radiant veneer lies a shadowy past, one that is slowly, stylishly, stepping into the spotlight. This is Malta’s Dark Tourism scene.
Welcome to Malta’s Dark Tourism scene, where death, memory and the macabre are woven into the cultural landscape – curated by Heritage Malta at a number of sites that embody this evocative legacy.
From ancient underground necropolises to allegedly haunted forts, Heritage Malta invites visitors to engage with something more evocative than just sun and sea: an unfiltered, often immersive encounter with the island’s complex past. Sites such as the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, a subterranean burial complex over 5,000 years old, and St Paul’s Catacombs, echoing with Roman rituals of the afterlife, speak not only of mortality, but of deeply rooted human spirituality and communal remembrance.
Yet Dark Tourism in Malta is not a fixation with decay. It offers a reflective lens through which to trace the contours of absence and trauma, finding in these silences echoes of our shared humanity. Heritage Malta’s historic fortifications, including Fort St Elmo and Fort St Angelo, are not merely strategic marvels; they are conflict-laden palimpsests, sites where blood was spilled and identities shaped. Through Heritage Malta’s stewardship, such sites are being reimagined not just as heritage attractions, but as places of empathy, education and affective experience.
Innovative events, such as sleepovers at St Paul’s Catacombs and at the Inquisitor’s Palace, are reshaping how the public interacts with dark heritage. These are annual events, part and parcel of Heritage Malta’s official calendar, which features curated experiences across the year. These events cannot be booked on demand
or requested individually. Their dates are established in advance and released as part of the calendar. Visitors interested in participating are encouraged to keep an eye on the calendar – accessible via heritagemalta.mt/whatson/to plan accordingly and secure their place when bookings open.
These experiences allow participants to inhabit the space not simply as spectators, but as temporary custodians of its memory. Sleeping within walls once hewn for the dead creates an intimate, affective encounter with Malta’s funerary past, transforming abstract history into a deeply personal narrative.
So, while your tan may fade, the resonances of Malta’s darker past will linger. Dark Tourism here is not about voyeurism or spectacle; it is about acknowledging the shadow, not to dwell in it, but to recognise it as the contrast through which light – and life – gain meaning. After all, what is beauty without a whisper of the macabre?
For those who wish to delve deeper into Malta’s forgotten narratives and haunted histories, Heritage Malta offers more than just physical sites. Explore the darker layers of Mdina, Rabat, Birgu, Bormla and Isla through these compelling reads.
Words by Coryse Borg
Coryse is a broadcaster, actress and voiceover artiste. She is passionate about writing, travelling and spending time with her loved ones; discovering new places and sampling new food in as many countries as possible.
The great packing debate
Are you the kind of traveller who packs everything but the kitchen sink... or the one who could probably survive a month with a carry-on? Let’s unpack the ongoing debate between heavy and light travellers, revealing the perks, pitfalls and packing personalities we’ve met along the way – while proudly waving the flag for the minimalist method.
There are two kinds of travellers in this world: the ones who show up at the airport with a trolley bag so compact it could almost be mistaken for a lunchbox; and the ones who are visibly struggling with a 30kg suitcase, three tote bags, and (I imagine) a sense of regret.
I’m definitely in the first category – a light packer – and not just out of practicality. For me, it’s a philosophy – part Marie Kondo; part survival instinct. I’ve learned that travel becomes infinitely more enjoyable when you’re not dragging your entire wardrobe, toiletries cabinet and bookshelf around Europe or, indeed, the globe.
That’s not to say that ‘my way’ is all roses. Of course, the fear of being unprepared is still present sometimes. What if there's a surprise summer downpour in Rome? A spontaneous invitation to a black-tie event in Vienna? Well, my reasoning is, if these unlikely scenarios do crop up, it is simply an excuse for some impromptu poncho or ballgown shopping!
Enter my friend Sandra, a self-confessed heavy packer, who sums her reasoning up thusly: “My story is one of delusion, drama and denim I haven’t worn since 2014. I like to think of myself as a minimalist, but my suitcase strongly disagrees. I nobly begin with good intentions – just the essentials – and end up with heavy delusions, packing for a sudden climate shift, a yacht party and a minor emotional breakdown… just in case.”
Sandra’s suitcase typically includes items she wouldn’t wear in real life but might need for that unexpected camel ride or an impromptu themed dinner; a hat she has never worn but thinks might magically suit her in another country; three books she won’t read; and all her creams and serums – which she forgets to use at home but is absolutely convinced she will apply religiously on holiday.
But before we judge (too much), there are perks to packing heavy. Being prepared for anything means you’re never caught off guard by weather, spontaneous plans, or dress codes. You also get to bring the comforts of home with you (I actually know of someone who takes her own pillow with her when she travels).
That said, there are some drawbacks too. Heavy bags are a literal pain, especially when you are navigating cobbled streets, stairs, or busy metro stations. Additionally, you risk paying extra luggage fees and wasting precious holiday time waiting at baggage claims or dealing with lost bags.
On the flip side, light packers like me breeze through the airport. Carry-on only? Yes, please! So why don’t more people pack light?
Daniel (AKA Mr Overhead Compartment) thinks he has cracked the code: “I can’t remember the last time I packed an actual suitcase to travel – it must have been over 10 years ago,” he recalls. “I’ve learnt the trick of only packing the barest of essentials and travelling with just a trolley bag that’s small enough to squeeze into the overhead rack on the plane.”
Daniel’s go-to travel kit? One pair of jeans, a few versatile T-shirts, a layer or two depending on the weather, and an all-purpose pair of shoes. Everything else – including his laptop and toiletries – goes into a backpack.
“Once I learned how to travel light, it made life so much easier. I doubt I’ll ever go back to packing a full suitcase,” he admits.
Nicola shares the same minimalist mindset and travel style, almost word for word. Coincidence? I suspect she and Daniel may be part of a secret club. Which begs the question: why am I not also a member of their club? But I digress…
Nicola explains: “I did a lot of backpacking when I was younger, so packing light just stuck with me. It makes it way easier to get around and gives me more independence. I always end up using the same few things anyway, so no need to drag around stuff I won’t even touch.”
Then there’s Matthew who, somehow, manages to marry minimalism with indulgence: “I class myself as a ‘light packer going abroad and a heavy packer coming back’,” he says with a grin.
“Unless you have a specific event with a dress code, taking loads of clothes is pointless. Go for smart-casual outfits that can work in different contexts. And roll your clothes – don’t fold them.”
His parting advice? Leave space on the way out. Not just for clothes, but also for experiences and a healthy dose of responsible retail therapy.
“Buy from small local businesses. Artisanal markets. Real souvenirs with a story. You’re not just taking something home – you’re giving something back to the local economy.”
I couldn’t agree more with Matthew. Shopping locally when travelling is one of the most rewarding ways to connect with a destination. And when your suitcase has breathing room, there’s less guilt (and less stress at the check-in/weigh-in counter) when you fall in love with that special souvenir.
At the end of the day, how much you pack says a lot about your travel mindset. Are you the planner who wants to be ready for anything, or the free spirit who likes to pack and go? Or maybe you’re somewhere in-between?
Of course, there’s no right or wrong, really. But if you’re looking to move more freely, spend less time un/packing, and more time actually travelling, I say come over to the light side!
Make a list. This is the first thing I do to prepare for a trip –even if it’s just a quick weekend away. This helps prevent both under- and overpacking.
Use packing cubes. I’m a great fan of these – game changers when it comes to organisation.
Choose versatile clothing. Stick to neutral colours and pieces that you can mix and match.
Wear your bulkiest items. This saves space (and keeps you warm on the plane when travelling during the colder months).
Go travel-size. Your back (and the airport liquid limit) will thank you.
Leave space. Don’t fill your suitcase or backpack to the brim. That extra space will come in handy. Believe me!
Keep essentials in your carry-on. Medication, documents and one change of clothes – just in case.
FEASTING WITH CORSAIRS: A TASTE OF HISTORY FROM MALTA’S
MARITIME PAST
Step aboard a Maltese corsair ship in the 18th century and you won’t just find daring sailors and cannon fire – you’ll uncover a fascinating culinary world where pork was salted with precision, pasta simmered with beans, and sugar sweetened the strongest coffee.
Words by Liam Gauci, Heritage Malta
Heritage Malta has just published the book, Morte o Fortuna – Corsairs in Malta 1747-1798, which dives deep into the rich gastronomic traditions of Malta’s seafaring past, bringing history to life through the stories of food, drink and adventures at sea.
In collaboration with Taste History – an immersive initiative by Heritage Malta that recreates traditional dishes from historical records – we invite readers and diners alike to experience the sensory side of history. Taste History is more than a culinary journey; it is edible storytelling that mirrors the meticulous research and flavourful narratives found in Morte o Fortuna
Take, for instance, Captain Giuseppe Grech, who in 1794 preserved pork in salt bought from Antikythera – an autumnal practice aligned with European tradition and the knowledge of the ship’s cook. Or Captain Guglielmo Lorenzi, who in 1767 captured six turkeys aboard a Turkish ship, delighting his officers with an unexpected feast. These tales reveal the importance of planning, knowledge, and occasionally, serendipity in feeding a ship's crew.
Pasta, of course, was a staple. In 1778, Giacomo Potesta delivered baskets of macaroni, vermicelli, tagliolini and taria to a corsair ship in harbour. One humble but enduring variety of pasta was – fdeusca. This holds a special place in the island’s culinary history. Described by the 18th-century lexicographer Agius de Soldanis, this flat broad pasta was prepared with herbs, legumes, or milk – simple ingredients with profound meaning. Aboard corsair ships, it was both sustenance and comfort food.
Wine and sugar added layers of luxury to the corsair diet. Port wine – favoured by both Grand Master Hompesch and Captain Cavazza – was decanted into crystal and silver-tagged vessels, while sugar, often captured from enemy ships, was a valued treasure. It sweetened the bitter coffee of the crew and, on rare occasions, made its way into a luxurious cup of hot chocolate.
Through Morte o Fortuna and the experiences offered by Taste History, Heritage Malta invites you to rediscover the flavours that shaped Maltese maritime heritage.
Fdeusca, corsairs' ribbon pasta.
Ramla Bay, Gozo.
Yes, the end of summer can be bittersweet. After cramming your calendar with beach days, barbecues, ice cream, late nights with friends and family trips, the days start getting shorter, and the air feels a little cooler. But before diving headfirst into school runs and sweaters, why not pause and truly enjoy this golden in-between time?
One of the simplest ways to celebrate the season’s gentle farewell is by getting outdoors –not necessarily in the beach-towel-and-bucket sort of way, although this is still doable – but with intention and calm. A sunset picnic, or a morning coffee on your balcony can turn into rituals that ground you and gently nudge you towards the cooler months.
A nice stroll, or a relaxed boat ride can provide the perfect blend of movement and stillness. There is something deeply soothing about being on the water as the season starts to turn, when the sun hangs lower in the sky and everything is bathed in its golden light.
Family routines can feel chaotic as summer winds down, but September is actually a great time for calm, low-pressure outings. Let’s not forget, though, the joy of festivals and fairs – the kind that bring communities together with food trucks, local music and a laid-back vibe.
There are plenty of events and activities to enjoy at this time of the year, including the Malta International Airshow, featuring spectacular aerial displays and scheduled to take place on 27th and 28th September.
The annual Science in the City event is held in Valletta around the same time, with hands-on science installations, live experiments, shows and family entertainment on 26th and 27th September, paving the way to school life in a fun way.
Feasts also continue well into this month, with Our Lady of Victories festa celebrated on 8th September and Independence Day on the 21st, while 4th October, just around the corner, sees the annual arts and culture festival, Notte Bianca, held in Valletta and transforming the capital into a vibrant hub of free performances, exhibitions and events.
Late-summer gatherings tend to be less crowded, more casual and just the right amount of festive. They are also a great excuse to try seasonal treats and the time to enjoy the last of summer’s delicious fruits and vegetables, which become a little feast in themselves. Late peaches, prickly pears, plums and melons are usually at their sweetest.
WINDING DOWN RITUALS
• As the temperature begins to drop slightly, it is also the perfect moment to start thinking about bringing some cosiness into the home. Start thinking of swapping out lightweight throws for softer blankets, add a few scented candles, and rearrange your favourite reading corner. These small tweaks can help signal the upcoming change in season while keeping the vibe relaxed and welcoming.
• Of course, winding down doesn’t have to mean slowing to a stop! Gentle movement is one of the best ways to stay energised and balanced. Whether it’s yoga by the sea, a long walk at golden hour, or simply dancing around the kitchen, staying active – without pushing yourself – can keep your spirits high.
* Mornings themselves can become more meaningful during this time of year. Try starting the day with five minutes of calm – sipping your tea or coffee on your balcony, doing gentle stretches, or listening to a quiet playlist. Even the shift in sunlight – less harsh, more golden – can feel like a well-needed invitation to pause and relax.
* The end of summer is also the perfect time to take stock – not necessarily in a ‘productivity hack’ kind of way, but through moments of intentional reflection. You could put together a summer photo collage. Alternatively, you could perhaps write down your highlights in a journal. Children could be encouraged to draw or paint their favourite holiday memories. These small acts of remembering help bring gradual closure to the summer holidays and can spark conversations that linger long after it is over.
• And then there’s the joy of preparing your own body and mind for the season ahead. Switch up your skincare to suit cooler air and reintroduce comfy clothes into your wardrobe.
If you are someone who struggles with the seasonal transition, especially when the days get shorter, make the most of natural light while you can. Open your windows, go for daytime walks, or simply sit by a window with a good book. Staying connected to the outdoors can make a big difference in your mood and energy levels.
• As routines start to creep back in, there’s no need to rush into them. If you have a young family, ease the children into earlier bedtimes with soothing rituals such as warm baths, calming music, shared story time, or simply dimming the lights earlier. These subtle shifts help prepare their body and mind for the rhythm of the new season, making the eventual change feel smoother and more intentional.
Finally, rather than mourning the end of the summer, do your best to embrace the idea that different seasons bring their own kinds of adventure. It is a chance to slow down; to exhale after the high energy of the summer holidays; to appreciate what was, and to step softly into what’s next. After all, the joy of summer will not disappear with the calendar. It lingers in our memories (and possibly our phone photo rolls) forever.
SIP, CHAT AND UNWIND
LAND YOUR MOMENT
Words by Adriana Bishop
Malta’s most loved fish
There are many fish in the sea but only one claims the crown as the queen of Malta’s late summer cuisine – the iconic lampuka.
It may not be Malta’s official national fish (that’s the killifish – il-bużaqq – in case you were wondering), but the lampuka is by far the most loved and popular of local seafood, so much so that the season is launched with a religious blessing.
always loved the end result on my plate, especially when it was encased in a buttery, crumbly pastry. Thanks mama!
We even have two streets named after it – one in Paola in the South of Malta, and the other in Żebbuġ on the sister island of Gozo.
The lampuka (Coryphaena hippurus) is globally known by many other names including dorado, a reference to its golden, metallic blue-green hue, dolphinfish, or mahi-mahi, which means very strong in Hawaiian. In Italy, it is known as corifena, lampuga or pesce capone and has even given its name to the much-loved Sicilian caponata in which it used to be added instead of today’s chunks of fried aubergine.
With its firm white flesh and particular ‘sea’ taste – “togħma ta’ baħar” as we would say in Maltese –particularly when freshly caught and fried simply in olive oil, the lampuka is as versatile as every home cook’s creativity will allow.
I have a distinct memory of my mother stocking up on as many of the freshest lampuki she could get her hands on and storing them in a specially bought freezer in the basement to ensure a continuous supply throughout the year, until next season. I confess, as a kid I hated having to dig out a whole creepy-looking frozen fish from that freezer, but I
The EU decreed that the season starts on 14th August, but for the locals, it is the feast of Santa Marija the next day that marks the traditional start of the lampuki season. The catch tends to peak in September and early autumn and continues until the end of the year.
The fish enters the Mediterranean from Atlantic waters to spawn in spring near Crete, and the young lampuki migrate past Malta between mid-August and December after which they make their way across the ocean to the Americas. They are also found in the Pacific and Indian Oceans.
Lampuki are one of the fastest-growing fish around –putting on around 100g a day – and adults can typically weigh between 7kg and 13kg, measuring a metre in length. The ones caught off the coast of Malta are half that size in general as they are still young.
Female lampuki have a sleek round head, while the males have a pronounced, steeped forehead. But it’s their forked tail that is the standout feature here, helping them to propel through water at exceptionally fast speeds of anything between 65km/h and 95km/h. You’d wonder how they’re even caught at all.
That’s where fishermen got clever. Lampuki like to swim in surface waters and tend to congregate in the shade, so local fishermen devised kannizzati rafts, made out of polystyrene blocks, anchored by a heavy limestone slab and fringed with
large palm fronds to create that much desired shade. The fishermen spend the whole year preparing them and cut the palm fronds just days before setting off to ensure they are fresh.
Every fisherman places anything between 120 and 300 kannizzati (or ċima) in allocated places within the Fisheries Management Zone up to 46km from the Maltese coast, which is reserved for fishing vessels that are not longer than 12 metres. The kannizzati are left afloat for a day or two and then the fishermen return with their luzzu or skuna to find the lampuki huddled under the shadow of the palm fronds.
In olden days, some fishermen would attach a bell, a small oil lamp, or even a live cricket in a tin can to help them locate the kannizzati in the dark. The fishermen then throw a 75-metre-long seine net to catch the fish and bring them back ashore to sell as quickly as possible. So quick in fact that fish sellers would typically holler “għadhom ħajjin” (they’re still alive) to indicate how fresh they are (metaphorically speaking, of course).
While fishing accounts for barely one per cent of Malta’s GDP, employing 1,000 fishermen, it is deeply linked to the country’s identity and the lampuki season is the strongest reflection of that cultural heritage. Before the fishermen set sail on the first night of the season, the parish priest of Marsaxlokk celebrates Holy Mass on the waterfront and then hops onto a small kajjik to bless all the fishing vessels and their crew.
So closely linked is the town in Malta’s southernmost tip to the fishing community that the parish church dedicated to the Madonna of Pompeii is topped by a statue of the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus and standing on a luzzu.
Every season, the fishermen catch around 400,000kg of lampuki, although last year, it was significantly less for various reasons. In any case, for sustainability reasons, fishermen were restricted to a daily bag limit of 10kg (or five lampuki), measuring more than 35cm a piece.
For an island in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, you’d think that we lived off a diet of seafood. But historically, fish was considered a food of penitence rather than prized for its nutritional value. We know better now, of course. Centuries ago, meat was far more important in the local diet than fish, which was typically eaten during Lenten fasting days and any other days, like Wednesdays and Fridays, when meat was not allowed by the Catholic Church.
While those who could afford it bought it as fresh as possible, the poor had to settle for fish that was preserved in salt, costing less but lasting longer. Old documents offer a snapshot of how fish was sold in the Middle Ages.
A decree of 1469 stated that fish could only be sold at the market, and only after the break of dawn, while a decree issued in 1462 stated that no one could force the seller to sell them a particular fish – as arguments often broke out with fishmongers who were suspected of keeping back the best fish for preferred customers. Another decree issued around that period also stated that no one could snatch a fish out of a fisherman’s hand.
The best days for buying fish remain the traditional Wednesdays and Fridays, and there are still those who opt to eat fish on those days even though there are no religious restrictions anymore. Helen Caruana Galizia, who, along with her sister Anne, wrote the bible of Maltese gastronomy, The Food and Cookery of Malta and Gozo, notes that some people were bound by a wartime vow not to eat meat on Wednesdays if their families were saved from bombs during World War II.
HOW TO EAT IT
Helen lists several ways to cook the much-loved lampuki. One of the most popular methods is to cut the cleaned fish in fillets, lightly cover them in flour, fry them in olive oil and serve them with a piquant tomato sauce, flavoured with mint, black olives and capers.
Perhaps the most iconic way to serve lampuki is as a pie, my personal favourite. It is a labour of love, and I wish my mother were still around to thank her for taking the effort to make it for us.
Photo: Jubliee Foods. Lampuki pie.
Torta tal-lampuki
SERVES 4 - 6
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE PASTY
400g plain flour
200g butter and lard, mixed
Pinch of salt
4 tbsp cold water
FOR THE FILLING
2 medium-sized lampuki (approx. 400g)
1 onion, sliced
2-3 tbsp olive oil
2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 medium cauliflower
800g spinach
8 black olives
1 tbsp sultanas
6 walnuts, shelled
Freshly grated rind of one or two lemons
METHOD
Start by making the pastry by rubbing the fats into the flour till it resembles fine breadcrumbs, then add the water carefully, using just enough to enable the mixture to hold.
Cut the fish into four or five steaks, coat lightly with flour and grill or fry in shallow oil until just cooked. Remove the bones and skin.
In a large pan, soften the onion in olive oil, add the tomatoes, cook for a little longer, then add the cauliflower, broken into florets, and the spinach. Add 250ml of hot water, cover the pan and simmer till the cauliflower is cooked al dente. Remove from the heat, add the olives, sultanas and walnuts. Let the mixture and the fish cool before proceeding, then add the grated lemon rind.
Line a shallow pie dish with slightly more than half the pastry. Lay out half the vegetable mixture, then the fish slices, then the remaining vegetables. Roll out the remaining pastry and cover the dish. Heat the oven to 200˚C/400˚F/ Gas Mark 6 and bake the pie for 30 minutes. Then reduce the temperature to 180˚C/350˚F/ Gas Mark 4 and continue baking until the pie is golden brown, about 20 minutes.
Words by Passaġġi
Inviting. Seasonal. Emerging.
A proud ambassador of all things Southern Italian, chef Francesco Mazzei feels like Malta is home too. After years in London, the island’s sunshine, smells, seasonal produce are more like his homeland Calabria, and working at Villa Corinthia and the Secret Garden in the Corinthia Palace feels like he is cooking in a place deeply aligned with his roots.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR COOKING?
My cooking is rooted in Calabria; simple, flavour-forward, ingredient-driven Italian dishes, made with a chef’s precision and respect for tradition. It’s ‘mamma’s cooking with a chef’s hands’ – home-style food elevated by technique.
WHO DID YOU LEARN MOST FROM IN THE KITCHEN?
I inherited most from my grandmother, learning classic Southern Italian and gelato-making recipes in our family gelateria. That rustic Calabria upbringing shaped everything I do today.
YOUR ALL-TIME FAVOURITE INGREDIENT AND HOW DO YOU USE IT BEST?
Olive oil, and when I can get Calabrian nduja, even better. I use it to enliven sauces, pizza toppings, or pastas. Its spicy, salty depth is versatile. I also created a signature nduja pizza at the Secret Garden that showcases this beautifully.
YOUR GO-TO MEAL TO WIN OVER FAMILY AND FRIENDS?
A fresh pasta dish or crisp pizza, with regional accents. Perhaps nduja-drizzled pizza or a vibrant seasonal pasta. They’re comforting, communal and unmistakably Italian.
YOUR FAVOURITE COMFORT FOOD?
Definitely Southern Italian classics: pasta with nduja, tomato and basil, or gelato made the way I learned in my uncle’s gelateria as a kid. Nostalgic and satisfying.
DO YOU PASS ON DESSERT?
Never! I believe every meal should end sweet, especially when it's homemade Sicilian or Calabrian style.
WHAT WOULD YOU NEVER SAY NO TO (FOOD WISE)?
Nduja, I truly believe it goes with almost anything. It’s deeply Calabrian and I rarely resist it in any dish.
Francesco Mazzei.
HEALTHY OR SINFUL, DECADENT AND RICH?
My cooking embraces the Mediterranean diet: fresh, seasonal, sometimes vegetarian-friendly. Even if indulgent aspects like pizzas or cured pork appear, it is quality over excess.
WHEN YOU EAT OUT, WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR?
I look for simplicity and quality; flavours that speak for themselves; seasonal ingredients and an honest cooking style. The less pretentious, the better.
THE IDEAL CUSTOMER PROFILE?
Someone open to relaxed luxury, who appreciates highcalibre ingredients in a warm, inviting setting. Whether by the pool at the Secret Garden or in a trattoria-style room, they value authenticity.
WHO WOULD YOU ASPIRE TO COOK FOR AND WHY?
I have already cooked for King Charles III at the Royal Residence of Highgrove and worked with Stanley Tucci, fuelled by shared values of sustainability and slow food. Cooking at that scale showed how food can unite culture and quality.
A CULINARY EVENT OR EXPERIENCE THAT WILL GO DOWN IN HISTORY FOR YOU?
Designing the menu for King Charles III’s dinner, hosted by Stanley Tucci at Highgrove, celebrating British Italian relations and the Slow Food philosophy. We used mostly British ingredients, couple with Italian philosophy, and it was a transformative sustainable dining moment.
DO YOU HAVE A CULINARY INVENTION?
Yes, the nduja pizza concept, a modern classic rooted in Southern Italian boldness. And the Pastachina con N’duja, a Calabrian-inspired lasagne based on my mother's recipe, featured in my cookbook Mezzogiorno.
AND A CULINARY SECRET YOU CAN SHARE?
Embrace leftovers… To me, they’re not waste but creative material. Reinvent scraps into delicious second-day dishes. My philosophy: maximum flavour, minimal waste.
WHAT DO YOU SAY TO SOMEONE WITH NO CONFIDENCE IN THE KITCHEN?
Start simple with good ingredients. Learn foundational recipes, like fresh pasta, tomato sauce, bruschetta… and build confidence one dish at a time. Passion goes a long way.
WHAT’S THE CUISINE THAT HAS INFLUENCED YOU THE MOST?
Southern Italian cuisine, especially Calabrian. It’s where I grew up and where my culinary soul was formed. It is rustic, seasonal, yet bold in flavour.
AND WHERE WOULD YOU TRAVEL TO EAT, AGAIN AND AGAIN?
I’m always drawn back to Calabria, my homeland, its coastal markets, citrus groves and age-old olive trees. Wherever I go, that region’s ingredients and flavours pull me home.
YOU’VE WORKED IN RESTAURANTS ALL OVER THE WORLD – FROM LONDON TO BANGKOK. HOW HAS THE MALTA EXPERIENCE BEEN SO FAR?
Malta feels like home. After years in London, the sunshine, smells, seasonal produce are more like Calabria. Working at Villa Corinthia and the Secret Garden at Corinthia Palace in Attard, I feel I’m cooking in a place deeply aligned with my roots.
WHAT IS YOUR IDEA OF QUINTESSENTIALLY MALTESE FOOD AND DO YOU INCORPORATE ANY ELEMENTS IN YOUR CUISINE?
I see Maltese cuisine through the Mediterranean lens: simple, seaside flavours, high-quality local produce. I incorporate Maltese olives, fish, seasonal vegetables into Italian preparations, letting the island speak through the dish.
THREE WORDS TO DESCRIBE THE LOCAL RESTAURANT SCENE…
Inviting. Seasonal. Emerging. Malta has warmth, a strong sense of seasonality, and it's growing fast as a Mediterranean culinary destination.
Villa Corinthia.
Try Mazzei's TORTELLI WITH BURRATA, GRANA PADANO AND AGED BALSAMIC VINEGAR
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE PASTA
100g “00” flour
100g semolina flour
3 medium eggs
FOR THE FILLING AND SAUCE
300g ricotta
300g burrata
150 Grana Padano, grated
Salt and pepper
50g butter
70g Grana Padano
200g rainbow chard
6 leaves of sage
Nutmeg
Aged balsamic vinegar
Chard leaves
50g hazelnuts
METHOD
In a bowl, combine 100g “00” flour, 100g semolina flour and 3 medium eggs. Mix by hand. Once it starts to come together, transfer to a work surface and continue kneading with the palm of your hand until you achieve a smooth dough. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Place 200g burrata in a bowl and crush it with a fork until smooth. Add 200g ricotta and mix well. Stir in grated Grana Padano, then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Transfer the mixture to a piping bag.
Remove the green part of the chard from the central stalk and place the leaves in a bowl with iced water. Cut the stalks into sticks (5cm long and 1cm wide). Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the green leaves for about 1 minute, then cool them quickly in iced water. Do the same with the stalks, cooking them for 2 to 3 minutes before cooling.
Preheat the oven to 170°C. Place the hazelnuts on a tray and roast until lightly golden. Let them cool completely, then halve using a small knife.
Roll the dough very thin using a pasta machine. Cut into 10cm squares and pipe about half a tablespoon of filling into the centre of each. Lightly spray with water, fold into a triangle, and pinch the edges to seal. Bring the two corners on the longest side together and pinch to secure.
Bring a pot of water to a boil and add rock salt. Cook the tortelli for about 1 minute, depending on the thickness of the pasta.
Meanwhile, in a pan, melt 50g butter with sage, a pinch of salt and freshly grated nutmeg. Add a few spoonfuls of the tortelli cooking water.
Drain the tortelli and toss in the butter sauce. In the final seconds, add the blanched chard leaves and stalks, and stir in grated Grana Padano to create a creamy sauce.
Plate the tortelli, garnish with chard leaves, roasted hazelnuts, a sprinkle of Grana Padano and finish with a few drops of balsamic vinegar.
TA’ MARIJA – YOUR GASTRO MALTESE KITCHEN
Constitution Street, Mosta
Established in 1964, Ta’ Marija is one of Malta’s most historically rich restaurants. Enjoy its Folklore Dinner shows on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays for some Maltese liveliness. (Transport can be arranged.) The gastro menu is bursting with creativity and local traditions, stamped with Ta’ Marija’s signature flavours. From appetizers and platters to traditional homemade ravioli, Ta' Marija brings Maltese favourites to the table in a unique way. Mains include a popular rabbit selection, fish and shellfish in season, local meats and the famous Whisper chargrilled steaks.
If you're looking for an extraordinary dining experience in the capital city, book a table at MUŻA Restaurant. Situated in the picturesque courtyard of an old auberge, MUŻA provides a cosy, laidback ambiance, perfect for a romantic dinner, or a night out with friends. The menu is bursting with fresh, local ingredients, and the knowledgeable staff can help you select the perfect wine to complement your meal.
(+356) 7979 0900
MUZARestaurantValletta muzarestaurant
OSTRICA
66, Church Street, St Paul’s Bay
Discover Ostrica at Gillieru, where tradition meets innovation on the shores of St Paul’s Bay. Located within the iconic Gillieru Harbour Hotel, a landmark with over a century of history, it celebrates the finest local ingredients from fresh fish to dry-aged meats, prepared with a modern twist. Its talented chefs craft each dish with care, offering an unforgettable dining experience. With stunning views of the bay and a tranquil atmosphere, Ostrica invites you to indulge in Malta’s rich culinary heritage.
(+356) 7902 2371 ostrica.mt ostrica ostrica
BOTTEGIN PALAZZO XARA
Triq San Pawl, Rabat
Tucked away in the heart of Rabat, just a short stroll from the historic Mdina, Bottegin Palazzo Xara offers an authentic Maltese dining experience. Situated within a local band club, the cosy bistro provides a welcoming atmosphere, while the peaceful Mediterranean Courtyard offers a tranquil setting for al fresco dining. The extensive menu features everything from hearty breakfasts to pizzas, pastas, grills and traditional local dishes. With soft jazz music and a vibrant, social atmosphere, it's the perfect place to dine like a local.
The Michelin-recommended Grotto Tavern restaurant offers a unique and unforgettable dining experience in the heart of Rabat. Nestled in a cave, the ambience is enchanting and romantic. Grotto Tavern’s chefs expertly craft tasting menus that showcase their passion for local and seasonal ingredients. Guests can sample innovative dishes by indulging in its fiveor seven-course experience. A visit to Grotto Tavern is a must for those seeking fine dining with a twist.
St George’s Bay, St Julian’s Andrew's Bar is a freshly re-opened venue where fun is not optional, good food is compulsory, and building great memories is essential. Steeped in legacy, this is, in fact, Malta's oldest bar! The place is a go-to, and you're simply going to love indulging in the extensive menu, with a great local cuisine focus, serving traditional Maltese and modern dishes, such as pizza or pasta. Ideal for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it is also perfect for a quiet drink or two.
(+356) 2138 8031 info@andrewsbar.com
TA' KOLINA
151, Tower Road, Sliema
Ta’ Kolina is a quaint, family-run restaurant on Tower Road (one of Sliema’s most popular spots). Open since 1974, it is a typical Maltese restaurant with a traditional Maltese interior and décor. A set menu comprising of traditional Maltese food offers a choice of starter, main dish, dessert and coffee for €27 per person. There is also a vibrant à la carte menu and daily display of fresh local fish. Dining here is a true Maltese experience for a reasonable price. Ta' Kolina is open for both lunch and dinner from 12 to 10.30pm.
(+356) 2133 5106 www.takolina.mt
Brewhouse,
Birkirkara
KM MALTA AIRLINES tops London Heathrow’s fly quieter and greener table for Q2 2025
KM Malta Airlines, the national airline of the Maltese Islands, is proud to announce that it has been ranked No. 1 in London Heathrow Airport’s Fly Quieter and Greener league table for Q2 2025. This ranking reflects the airline’s strong environmental performance, quieter aircraft operations and commitment to reducing its carbon footprint at one of the world’s busiest airports.
London Heathrow’s Fly Quieter and Greener programme assesses the 50 busiest airlines at the airport each quarter using nine key metrics,
including noise and NOx emissions, the use of continuous descent approaches (CDA), track-keeping on designated flight paths, and operational punctuality. KM Malta Airlines achieved the highest overall score among all carriers in Q2 2025.
This recognition follows another milestone for KM Malta Airlines earlier this year, when it was named operator of Europe’s youngest aircraft fleet by ch-aviation. The airline operates a modern fleet of Airbus A320neo aircraft, which are significantly quieter and more fuel-efficient than previous-
generation models. And they have been instrumental in securing the top spot at London Heathrow.
The Fly Quieter and Greener programme is part of Heathrow’s long-term Noise Action Plan, which encourages airlines to improve their environmental performance by highlighting best practices in noise and emissions management. KM Malta Airlines’ leading performance demonstrates the success of its environmental strategy and supports its ambition to be among Europe’s most sustainable carriers.
TAKE HOME A MODEL AIRCRAFT!
Love our sleek Airbus A320neo? Now you can take one home! Visit our Sales Office, found in the Departures area at Malta International Airport, and pick up your very own KM Malta Airlines aircraft model. Choose from two sizes: small (1:200 scale) for just €25; or large (1:100 scale) for €55. It’s perfect for collectors, aviation fans, or as a unique Maltese souvenir.
Timeless, meaningful and unmistakably Maltese – your perfect souvenir
We're excited to launch a collaborative collection, designed exclusively for KM Malta Airlines by Charles & Ron.
This curated range of luxurious silk scarves, elegant silk ties and a stunning set of jewellery celebrates the essence of Maltese heritage. Each piece is infused with iconic Maltese elements: from the bold geometry of the eight-pointed cross to the majestic architecture of Mdina and also intricate motifs inspired by the armoury of the Knights of Malta. The vibrant prints and intricate detailing tell a story of pride, tradition and style, reflecting the island’s rich culture and history.
This limited collection is only available for purchase from the KM Malta Airlines Sales Office at Malta International Airport’s Departures area.
Discover a world of exclusive benefits with KM Rewards, the loyalty programme designed to make your travels with KM Malta Airlines even more rewarding. Every time you fly, you earn SkyBux, which can be redeemed for flights, extras and more!
Join for free today and start turning your SkyBux into unforgettable journeys. Climb the tiers faster and unlock the exclusive perks of KM Elite – before you can say: "Ready for take-off!"
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Use them to save on your flight or to enjoy extras like extra legroom or more baggage. With our easy-to-use slider, you decide how much SkyBux and cash to combine. Your SkyBux are ready to go!
AND THERE’S MORE TO COME!
New ways to redeem your SkyBux are on the way – not just for travel, but beyond. Stay tuned!
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Merħba abbord
il-KM Malta Airlines
Aħna ħerqanin li inti tkun magħna, u rridu nkunu żguri li jkollok titjira komda u pjaċevoli. Hawnhekk issib ftit pariri importanti biex jinżamm kollox pinna u sigur għal kulħadd.
IĊ-ĊENTRU EWLIENI TAL-AJRUPORT TAGĦNA
Malta International Airport (MLA), the main hub for KM Malta Airlines, first opened in 1958 as Luqa Airport and has since grown into a modern, world-class facility. Playing a crucial role in connecting the island to hundreds of destinations, MLA supports KM Malta Airlines’ extensive network of flights. Guided by core values, the airport ensures a seamless travel experience for all passengers. By working sustainably and collaboratively with its partners, MLA continues to enhance Malta's connectivity and deliver exceptional service to travellers worldwide.
L-Ajruport Internazzjonali ta’ Malta (MLA), iċ-ċentru ewlieni għall-KM Malta Airlines, fetaħ għall-ewwel darba fl-1958 u minn dakinhar kiber f’faċilità moderna u ta’ klassi dinjija. Bi rwol kruċjali biex jgħaqqad ’il gżiritna ma’ mijiet ta’ destinazzjonijiet, l-MLA jappoġġja x-xibka estensiva tat-titjiriet tal-KM Malta Airlines. Iggwidat minn valuri tal-qalba, l-ajruport jiżgura esperjenza ta’ vjaġġ trankwill għall-passiġġieri kollha. Permezz tal-ħidma sostenibbli u kollaborattiva mal-imsieħba tiegħu, l-MLA jissokta jsaħħaħ l-konnettività ta’ Malta u jagħti servizz eċċezzjonali lill-vjaġġaturi mad-dinja kollha.
OUR FLEET
IL-FLOTTA TAGĦNA
AIRBUS 320NEO
QUANTITY: 8 IN FLEET
NUMBER OF SEATS: 180
ENGINES: CFM LEAP-1A
MAXIMUM TAKE OFF WEIGHT: 73.5 / 77 METRIC TONS
OVERALL LENGTH: 37.57M
WINGSPAN: 35.8M
CRUISING SPEED: MACH 0.78 (450KNOTS, 833KM/HR)
RANGE: 6,500KM, 3,500 NMI, 4,025 SMI
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 1.8 LITRES PER 100KM PER PASSENGER*
* Based on a 1,000NM (1,860KM) journey with 180 pax and bags.
A quick heads-up!
Inħejjuk bil-quddiem!
SEATBELT SAFETY
Your seatbelt is here for your protection! Please fasten it whenever the seatbelt sign is on or while the aircraft is moving. For your safety, we recommend keeping it fastened throughout the flight. If you’re travelling with a child under two, they’ll need to be secured on your lap with an infant seatbelt, which our crew will be happy to provide.
ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION
Only alcohol served by our crew is allowed on board, and it’s only for passengers aged 17 and over. Remember, alcohol can have a stronger effect at high altitudes, so please enjoy responsibly. In line with international regulations, we may prevent intoxicated passengers from boarding or continuing their journey.
PHOTOGRAPHY ETIQUETTE
We want everyone to feel comfortable, so please respect your fellow passengers and crew. Please do not take photos or videos on board without their verbal permission.
NO SMOKING ZONE
For the safety and comfort of everyone, smoking – including e-cigarettes and vaping – is strictly prohibited at any time when on board the aircraft. If you see anyone smoking, let our crew know immediately.
SURVEY
Customer satisfaction is of the utmost importance at KM Malta Airlines and we are always looking for ways to improve. Scan the QR code to tell us about your experience and be in with a chance to win a pair of return flights with us!
IS-SIGURTÀ TAĊ-ĊINTURIN
Iċ-ċinturin tiegħek qiegħed għall-protezzjoni tiegħek! Jekk jogħġbok aqflu kull meta s-sinjal taċ-ċinturin ikun mixgħul jew sakemm ikun miexi l-ajruplan. Għas-sigurtà tiegħek, aħna nirrakkomandaw li żżommu maqful matul it-titjira kollha. Jekk qed tivvjaġġa bl-ulied taħt is-sentejn, dawn għandhom jinżammu fuq ħoġrok b’ċinturin għat-trabi li l-ekwipaġġ ikun kuntent li jagħtik.
IL-KONSUM TAL-ALKOĦOL
Abbord huwa permessibbli biss l-alkoħol servut mill-ekwipaġġ tagħna, u dan qiegħed biss għallpassiġġieri li għandhom 17-il sena jew iktar. Ftakar, f’altitudnijiet għolja l-alkoħol jista’ jkollu effetti aqwa, għalhekk, jekk jogħġbok, ħu gost b’mod responsabbli. Skont ir-regolamenti internazzjonali, nistgħu nipprevjenu lill-passiġġieri fis-sakra milli jitilgħu abbord jew milli jissuktaw bil-vjaġġ tagħhom.
L-ETIKETT TAL-FOTOGRAFIJA
Irridu li kulħadd iħossu komdu, għalhekk, jekk jogħġbok, irrispetta lill-passiġġieri ta’ miegħek u lillekwipaġġ. Jekk jogħġbok tiħux ritratti jew filmati abbord mingħajr il-permess verbali tagħhom.
POST LI FIH MA TPEJJIPX
Għas-sigurtà u l-kumdità ta’ kulħadd, it-tipjip – inklużi s-sigaretti elettroniċi u vaping – huwa pprojbit f’kull waqt abbord l-ajruplan. Jekk tara lil xi ħadd ipejjep, għarraf lill-ekwipaġġ tagħna minnufih.
ST ĦARRIĠ
Is-sodisfazzjon tal-klijent huwa tal-ogħla importanza għall- KM Malta Airlines u b’hekk aħna dejjem infittxu modi kif intejbu dan. Skennja l-kodiċi QR biex tgħidilna iktar dwar l-esperjenza tiegħek u idħol fiċ-ċans li tirbaħ magħna żewġ biljetti bir-ritorn!
USING PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES (PEDs)
L-UŻU TAT-TAGĦMIR ELETTRONIKU PORTABBLI (PEDs)
Most portable electronic devices (PEDs) are equipped with powerful lithium batteries. Under certain conditions, these can overheat and catch fire. By following these instructions, you will be enhancing safety on board our aircraft. Monitor your PEDs during the flight and protect them from damage and unintentional activation. E-cigarettes and power banks can be easily activated and raise their temperature quickly. Keep them on your person if you can, and do not place them next to flammable items such as perfume when in hand baggage. Power banks are not to be used or charged during the flight.
PEDs IN FLIGHT MODE
Any devices that can send or receive data by wireless means, such as smartphones, tablets and e-readers must be switched to flight mode before departure and can be used throughout the flight. If data transmission capability cannot be switched off while the device is operating, the device itself must be switched off completely for the duration of the flight. Bluetooth connectivity can be used during all phases of flight.
LARGER DEVICES (LAPTOPS, LARGE TABLETS)
These should be turned off and stowed away during taxi, take-off and landing, but you’re free to use them during the cruise.
Wi-Fi
The use of Wi-Fi with flight mode enabled is allowed on aircraft which are equipped with an in-flight entertainment system. Follow any crew instructions regarding connectivity.
USE OF HEADPHONES
Headphones may be used during all phases of flight, however we ask you to remove them during the safety briefing. Customers sitting in an emergency exit row must refrain from using headphones during taxi, take-off and landing.
DAMAGED OR OVERHEATING DEVICES
If any device is damaged, starts to overheat or produces smoke, is lost or falls into the seat structure, please notify our crew immediately. Do not try to retrieve it yourself if it falls between seats; we’ll take care of it. Carriage of damaged, defective or recalled lithium batteries or devices is prohibited on board our flights.
We kindly ask that all passengers follow these guidelines for the safety and comfort of everyone on board. Have a fantastic flight with KM Malta Airlines!
Ħafna mill-PEDs huma mgħammra b’batteriji b’saħħithom tal-litju. Meta jkunu taħt ċerti kundizzjonijiet dawn jistgħu jisħnu żżejjed u jieħdu n-nar. Jekk issegwi dawn l-istruzzjonijiet, inti tkun qed issaħħaħ is-sigurtà abbord l-ajruplani tagħna. Osserva l-PEDs tiegħek matul ittitjira u pproteġihom mill-ħsara u milli jixegħlu b’mod mhux intenzjonat. Is-sigaretti elettroniċi u l-power banks jistgħu jixegħlu faċilment u t-temperatura tagħhom tista’ tiżdidilhom malajr. Jekk tista’ żommhom fuqek, u tqegħedhomx ħdejn oġġetti li jieħdu n-nar bħal fwieħa meta dawn ikunu fil-bagalja tal-idejn. Il-power banks m’għandhomx jintużaw jew jiġu ċċarġjati matul it-titjira.
IL-PEDs FUQ IL-MODALITÀ TAT-TITJIRA
Kwalunkwe tagħmir elettroniku li jista’ jibgħat jew jirċievi d-data mingħajr il-ħtieġa ta’ wajer, bħall-ismartphones, it-tablets u l-e-readers għandhom jinqalbu għall-modalità tat-titjira qabel it-tluq, u hekk jistgħu jintużaw matul ittitjira kollha. Jekk il-funzjoni tat-trasmissjoni tad-data ma tistax tintefa waqt li t-tagħmir elettroniku jkun mixgħul, it-tagħmir innifsu għandu jintefa għalkollox tul it-titjira kollha. Il-konnettività tal-Bluetooth tista’ tintuża tul il-fażijiet kollha tat-titjira.
IT-TAGĦMIR ELETTRONIKU TA’ DAQS IKBAR (LAPTOPS, TABLETS KBAR)
Dawn għandhom jintfew u jintrefgħu matul is-sewqan, it-tlugħ u l-inżul, iżda tista’ tużahom b’mod liberu tul il-kruċiera.
L-użu tal-Wi-Fi bil-modalità tat-titjira mixgħula huwa permessibbli fuq l-ajruplani mgħammra bis-sistema taddivertiment ta’ matul it-titjira. Segwi kull istruzzjoni talekwipaġġ rigward il-konnettività.
L-UŻU TAL-HEADPHONES
Il-headphones jistgħu jintużaw tul il-fażijiet kollha tat-titjira, madankollu nitolbuk tneħħihom waqt l-ispjegazzjoni tas-sigurtà. Il-klijenti bilqiegħda f’xi filliera tal-ħruġ tal-emerġenza m’għandhomx jużaw ilheadphones matul is-sewqan, it-tlugħ u l-inżul.
IT-TAGĦMIR ELETTRONIKU BIL-ĦSARA
JEW LI JKUN SAĦAN IŻŻEJJED Jekk xi tagħmir elettroniku jkollu l-ħsara, jibda jisħon jew idaħħan, jintilef jew jaqa’ fl-istruttura tal-pultruna, jekk jogħġbok għarraf lill-ekwipaġġ tagħna minnufih. Tippruvax issibu inti jekk jaqa’ bejn il-pultruni; nieħdu ħsiebu aħna. Il-ġarr ta’ batteriji tal-litju jew tagħmir elettroniku bil-ħsara, difettuż jew wieħed li ntalab jinġabar lura huwa pprojbit abbord it-titjiriet tagħna.
Ġentilment nitolbu li l-passiġġieri kollha jsegwu dawn il-linji gwida għas-sigurtà u l-kumdità ta’ kulħadd abbord. Nixtiqulek titjira fantastika mal-KM Malta Airlines!
