Passaggi, November 2025

The KM Malta Airlines In-Flight Magazine

ISSUE 13

November 2025

PG 8

The Silent City – a national treasure PG 51

Richard England's architectural trail PG 67

Dark tourism: from camping in catacombs to sleepovers in old prisons

in collaboration with

BEHIND ????????

PASSAĠĠI

ON THE COVER Mdina Gate

MEET THE TEAM DESIGN TBWA\ANG

PHOTOGRAPHERS Diana Oros Gareth Mercieca Heritage Malta Jeff Fabri Gavin Borg Marija Grech Patrick van Schaik Richard England Simon Abrahams

EDITOR Fiona Galea Debono

SALES AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT TBWA\ANG

CONTRIBUTORS Adriana Bishop Coryse Borg David Carabott Inkontru.app Lea Hogg Ramona Depares Ruth Zammt DeBono Shirley Jobson Thomas Camilleri

WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE FEATURED IN PASSAĠĠI? For advertising opportunities, get in touch with TBWA\ANG on passaggi@tbwa-ang.com or (+356) 2131 0608 Abigail: abigail@tbwa-ang.com or (+356) 9929 0518

HOW TO PRONOUNCE PASSAĠĠI

/pasˈsadʒi/ Here’s the breakdown: • /p/ as in pass • /a/ as in art • /sˈ/ as in sun (with stress on the following syllable) • /dʒ/ as the sound of the j in 'judge' (geminated or doubled sound) • /i/ as in eat The word passaġġi means 'passages' in English.

The publisher, authors and contributors reserve their rights with regards to copyright. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied by any means without the written consent of the publisher. Editorial features and opinions expressed in Passaġġi do not necessarily reflect the views of KM Malta Airlines, the publisher, or the editorial team. Both KM Malta Airlines and the publisher do not accept responsibility for commercial and advertising content. Although the authors and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this magazine was correct before going to print, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result f rom negligence, accident, or any other cause. Special thanks to KM Malta Airlines and VisitMalta for the provision of photographic material.

Printed in Malta by Gutenberg Press. All magazine rights are reserved by KM Malta Airlines.

TBWA\ANG, 3rd Floor, Professional Building, Sliema Road, Gżira GZR 1633 Malta \ (+356) 2131 0608 \ tbwa-ang.com

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Welcome to The KM Malta Airlines In-Flight Magazine

David Curmi

Executive Chairman KM Malta Airlines As we transition from summer into winter, we take pride in reflecting on what has been, to date, an exciting and rewarding year for KM Malta Airlines. One of our proudest achievements came this autumn when we were officially recognised as an APEX Four Star™ Major Airline for 2026, a prestigious global distinction based solely on verified passenger feedback.

Receiving this honour just 18 months after our inaugural flight is a remarkable milestone – a testament to our team’s dedication to delivering consistently high standards of service to every passenger who chooses to fly with us.

Looking ahead to the festive season, we are preparing for one of our busiest periods of the year. To meet the strong demand, we have added more than 60 extra flights across our network, including popular routes such as Amsterdam, London Heathrow, Paris and Zurich. We have also introduced a seasonal service between Malta and Catania, operating from 18th December to 5th January. These additional services are already available for booking and are designed to make it easier for you to reunite with family and friends or enjoy a well-deserved holiday during this special time of year.

We are also very excited to introduce KM Malta Holidays, our new all-in-one holiday booking platform. This service combines flights, hotels and optional extras like car hire and airport transfers into a seamless booking experience.

Whether you’re planning a weekend escape or a longer break, KM Malta

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Holidays offers competitive flight and hotel packages, generous baggage allowances, and a wide range of accommodation options to suit every taste and budget. Find out more and book your next escape at holidays.kmmaltairlines.com Our KM Rewards loyalty programme has also taken an important step forward. Members can now redeem their SkyBux directly on our website when booking flights or extras, using an easy-to-use slider tool on the payment page. If you are not yet a member, we warmly encourage you to join – you can even sign up today and earn SkyBux on the very journey you are taking right now.

On behalf of everyone at KM Malta Airlines, thank you for choosing to fly with us this November. We look forward to welcoming you on board and wish you a most pleasant journey.

Fiona Galea Debono Editor

I often take my cue for this letter from our cultural section, compiled by inkontru.app and listing the month’s many enlightening events. November has been described as “a season of creativity that’s anything but quiet”. And it got me thinking: does it ever really go quiet on this seasonless island?

Elsewhere, hotels shut down between peak and off-season periods, tourists vanish, and once-bustling destinations turn into ghost towns for a while. But we can hardly speak of shoulder months in Malta, which tirelessly churns out attractions year-round – blessed, too, by clement weather, save for a welcome splash of rain and a breath of fresher air as winter kicks in.

There may be a limit to what we can cover on 316 square kilometres – one of the smallest countries in the world – but somehow there is never a dull moment.

And often, our contributors make life easier, excitedly pitching ideas they are eager to research, explore first-hand, and write about, all while displaying a deep love and appreciation for their island.

It’s wonderful to visit Malta through the eyes of the locals – and that’s exactly what Passaġġi set out to do. So, follow the architecture and artistic trail of Richard England to meet the country’s very soul; or dare to experience a spot of dark tourism, Maltese-style, with catacomb camps or sleepovers in centuries-old prison cells.

For this month – the supposed lull before the coveted Christmas chaos – forget any thoughts of hibernation or indoor inactivity. Instead, expect daring art, moving music and grand theatricality among the many highlights.

While Halloween brings its own original, eerie twist – and shudder – to many Heritage Malta sites, Passaġġi also balances things out with some hearty and humble local dishes that feel like a warm hug.

It’s no surprise, then, that theatres have somehow snuck in from the wings and taken centre stage in this issue of Passaġġi. And while it may seem like an overdose in one edition, stories about behind-the-scenes tours in Gozo’s auditoriums and an encounter with the artistic director of the Mediterranean Conference Centre – the largest theatre on the island – have woven a running theme, offering a wider view of the scene.

From a pot of simple goodness – in the form of Soppa tal-Armla as soup season begins – to other servings of generous, soulful cooking, Malta is also about honest food that speaks of passion and place.

As we mark the first anniversary of KM Malta Airlines’ reborn in-flight magazine, it’s also time to thank our enthusiastic crop of writers, who pour so much heart into their stories on Malta and Gozo. Truly passionate about the islands, they have painted personal and introspective views of local destinations, events and sites, adding fresh perspectives to what we might sometimes take for granted.

In the words of this month’s featured chef, who strives for authenticity: “You don’t need tweezers to make something beautiful; you need heart.”

The people behind the ingredients – from the fisherman in Marsaxlokk to the farmer at Ta’ Qali and the baker down the road – and yes, even the island’s distinct seasons in this case – remain a daily inspiration for him.

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Contents 8

ISLANDS 8

Mdina: Malta’s living treasure The jewel in the crown of cultural heritage

TRAVEL 16

Prague: the playground of the romantics Visit the City of 100 Spires

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Walking through 1,000 centuries in Delhi A destination that feels like a journey through time

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HISTORY 25

The most beautiful floor in the world Over 400 magnificent tombstones at St John’s Co-Cathedral

MUSIC 31

More than a theatre Meet the MCC’s artistic director

CULTURE 36

This month’s must-see events Autumn in Malta is anything but quiet

ART 43

Art, fashion and cinema: 1960 to today A new exhibition at Spazju Kreattiv

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ARCHITECTURE 51

Walking through a live gallery Explore Richard England’s Malta 6

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GOZO 56

Gozo’s mighty Cittadella Tour this majestic hilltop fortress

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Behind the scenes Immersive tours of Gozo’s iconic theatres

ACTION 63

How cricket has taken off The evolution of a sport

ENTERTAINMENT 67

When history haunts Halloween at local historical sites

PETS 72

A Christmas journey to Vienna with your dog One of the most pet-friendly capitals

TRENDS 74

Travel green: a guide to journeying kindly Being a responsible tourist

MADE IN MALTA 81

Turning up the heat

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Local chutneys and chilli with bite

FOOD 85

Vibrant. Evolving. Heartfelt.

Cooking with care and all the senses

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A pot of humble goodness, Soppa tal-Armla Soup season has started

AIRLINE NEWS 95

Flight, company and destination information All you need to know about flying with KM Malta Airlines

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Words by

Adriana Bishop Adriana is a former news journalist and travel PR executive, now a freelance writer based in Switzerland, with her heart and eyes always set on her forever home, Malta.

Mdina: Malta’s living treasure The island’s jewel in the crown of cultural heritage glows with history and legends, sustained by its handful of residents, who preserve the city’s unique spirit. Visit it through their eyes.

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Once upon a time, or so it seems, Mdina was lifted straight from the pages of a fairy tale. Rising on a natural redoubt in the centre of the island, its golden walls glow against the sky, a city that has resisted time and tide. And if all this sounds just too cheesy, wait till you see it IRL. Within its impenetrable fortifications live less than 120 people, some of them descendants of Malta’s nobility, the guardians of a place that has seen Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs and Knights pass through its gates. Today, Mdina may appear frozen in time, but for those who call it home, the city is very much alive.

Those honey-hued ramparts may soon be recognised as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO as the “Maltese Fortifications of the Knights of St John”, a fitting honour for a city that has guarded Malta’s memory for millennia.

Us locals know Mdina for two things (mostly): Fontanella’s legendary chocolate cake and 2am smooches on the bastions when the Silent City truly lives up to its moniker. I dare you to walk through its meandering labyrinth of narrow lanes and not fall in love (again) with your partner, with life, with the place itself.

Mdina has an enduring magic that manages to leave everyone awestruck, no matter how many times they visit.

And I shall make no apologies for waxing lyrical about it.

I am not, sadly, one of the 120 people who call Mdina home. And yet, like every Maltese, I feel the city belongs to me too. It is the crown jewel of our cultural heritage, a national treasure I feel proud of and fiercely protective of. That sense of shared ownership makes its preservation all the more important.

Someone who does call Mdina home is Peter Sant Manduca, who has been the city’s mayor for almost 24 years. “I have always lived in Mdina. I was brought up here, and I don’t know any other way. I love the place. For me, it’s a compliment when people come and admire the city.

I would never leave it. Living here is an honour and a privilege,” he says.

Peter concedes that living in a tourist attraction – last year, Mdina welcomed 2.5 million visitors – can be a bit hectic sometimes, “but that is the price you have to pay when a place is popular”.

With such a small community living within the walls of a city covering an area of just 0.9 square kilometres, it comes as no surprise that everyone knows everybody else, with complex, extended family trees intertwining like old vines.

Peter says he knows every building inside out too. However, he is concerned about the dwindling resident population and what this could mean for the future of the city.

“The vision for the future is to keep maintaining Mdina. It is quite a task with all the visitors, and we are always at it. We have just restored the doors to the city. We cannot lose its charm,” the mayor remarks.

The city, originally called Ann by the Phoenicians and then renamed Melita by the Romans, has not grown beyond its walls in over 1,000 years. With a history dating back 4,000 years, it is one of the oldest and most continuously inhabited cities in Europe and possibly the world.

After a 9th-century massacre wiped out most of its population, it was reborn in the 11th century as Madīnah from which the city’s current name derives. It served as the capital of Malta until the Knights of St John arrived in 1530 and established their capital in Birgu before Valletta was built.

IF ONLY THOSE WALLS COULD SPEAK… Walking through the main gate of Mdina is a journey back in time, through multiple layers of centuries of history. When new paving was laid in St Paul’s Square outside the cathedral 20 years ago, workers uncovered a Roman wall, while restoration of the bastions revealed the remains of a Punic-Roman fortress – reminders that every corner of the Silent City rests on layers of forgotten lives.

Directly opposite the cathedral, Palazzo del Prelato commands an unbroken view of the altar from the main bedroom – almost as if it had been designed that way, so the prelate could watch over it from his bed.

The palace, built by the Castelletti family, ancestors of the current owners, the Lanfranco family, has a colourful, chequered history that could fill volumes. But it is perhaps best known for housing a fragment of the True Cross in its private chapel. While it remains a private home, the Lanfranco family do enjoy sharing it with others.

The son of the current owners, Michael Lanfranco, does not live in Mdina

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permanently, but he is there every day, looking after the family home, while his parents spend part of the year in the city.

“Mdina is a special place,” he tells me. “We always end up here for every single relevant event in our life. It is a point of reference. It is home.”

Asking Mdina residents to name their favourite part of the city is like asking them to choose which child they love most. After a very long pause, Michael finally concedes that his favourite building is the Carmelite Church further up on Villegaignon Street.

Mdina Gate.

His mother, he relates, remembers a time when there were no tourists in the city and the one souvenir shop owned by her family would rush to open only when a cruise ship docked in Grand Harbour.

There is another building that holds a special place in Michael’s heart. Palazzo Vilhena, which today houses the National Museum of Natural History, used to serve as a tuberculosis hospital until January 1956. It is there that Michael’s paternal grandfather, Anthony Lanfranco, lived in a room as a young doctor while he treated patients and helped to eradicate the disease.

It is a unique building not least because it was built by Grand Master António Manoel de Vilhena in 1724, when Mdina was mainly for the Maltese and not for the Knights, as by then, the capital had already migrated to Valletta.

TAKE YOUR TIME You can walk around Mdina in a matter of minutes, or you can linger and savour its history slowly as it unfolds, revealing layer upon layer of its past. Michael feels quite

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St Paul's Cathedral.

But he continues that there is one particular moment in the day when Mdina is at its finest: “Just before the sun begins to set, when the top half of the cathedral is lit as if there’s a spotlight shining on it. It is a time when Mdina is less busy, and the sun washes the cathedral with a beautiful golden light that also comes in through the back window of our piano nobile and casts a deep shadow all the way into the chapel.”

The Carmelite Church

“We have a very close connection to this church. My grandparents got married there and they are buried there. My mother’s side of the family are very devoted to Our Lady of Mount Carmel and are great benefactors of the church,” he explains.

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suggests strongly that visitors should take their time to appreciate the city.

“There is such a mix of buildings in Mdina. To take in the city properly, you need time to wander around; to experience the side streets too. Every corner tells a different story… There is a certain calmness to Mdina that needs to be experienced.”

Michael’s thoughts are echoed by Nico Vella Gatt, who took over the reins of Bacchus Restaurant four years ago, following his father’s death. It has been an Mdina institution for 50 years and it is now Nico’s “honour” to keep the legacy going.

While he does not live there, Nico has been a regular since he was a child. He has grown to love “every nook and cranny” of the place but also urges visitors to take their time to explore it properly.

“Every part of the city amazes me. One place I find quite special is the viewing bastions because they are one of the few parts that show the old medieval fortifications. The walls were ‘beautified’ by the Knights, who renovated the medieval ramparts in the baroque style, so this is quite a nice area because it gives you a clear indication that Mdina was alive and not just a static city,” Nico says.

An architect by profession before he took over the restaurant, Nico points out two more details that reveal Mdina’s multi-layered history. The restaurant itself is housed in two gunpowder magazines built by Grand Master Martin de Redin between 1657 and 1660, one of its walls dating all the way back to the Roman period.

Just a short walk away, the Greeks Gate – Mdina’s side entrance – bears witness to another layering of time, with a baroque façade on the outside and a medieval arch on the inside; “two periods joined in one wall.”

To the left of the restaurant are the narrow, labyrinthine lanes of the 'older' Mdina that survived the 1693 earthquake, while to the right are the wider streets with baroque buildings built after half the city was flattened. “You get two experiences in one city,” Nico points out.

“When you visit Mdina, you have to come with an open ticket. Just start experiencing the city for what it is and start understanding the little details.”

Like Nico, I often visit the car-free city simply to get away from the hectic humdrum of daily life and enjoy slowing down my pace. All that history calls for a moment of reflection on the heritage we have inherited and what legacy we are going to leave behind.

Did you know?•

The large balcony on the front of Palazzo del Prelato is believed to be the place from where the body of French Captain Masson was thrown by Maltese rebels in September 1798, sparking the start of the Maltese uprising against the French.

Where to stay:

The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux: a luxury boutique hotel in a converted 17thcentury palazzo, recently awarded a Michelin Key. Palazzo Bifora: a restored heritage home with six suites named after the revivalist mullioned window on its façade.

Do not miss:

Palazzo Falson: a 13th-century palazzo, the former home of Captain Olof Gollcher, an artist, soldier, collector and philanthropist.

Casa Gourgion: a privatelyowned nobleman’s house with iconic neo-Gothic architecture.

Where to eat:

De Mondion: a One Michelin star fine-dining restaurant on the rooftop of the Xara Palace Hotel.

Lumière: a Mediterranean fusion dining concept on the roof of Palazzo Bifora.

Fontanella: the legendary tea garden on Mdina’s fortifications that has been serving its famous chocolate cake for 50 years.

Il-Maħżen: a charming café featuring a mini-museum of tools that reflect the history of ancient trades.

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Must-see sites

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Words by

Heritage Malta The national agency for museums, conservation practice and cultural heritage, it is the guardian of over 8,000 years of history.

If this is your first visit to the Maltese Islands, you cannot leave without ticking these sites off your list.

Ta’ Kola Windmill Xagħra, Gozo

Imagine… a bright new morning with just the right wind; a miller letting the locals know by blowing through a triton shell; the villagers bringing their cereals to be ground into flour. Ta’ Kola Windmill is a unique relic of breadmaking in Gozo, transporting you back to such a morning. This 300-year-old building is a living testimony to our forefathers’ way of life, marked with hardships and daily struggles, at a time when bread was the most indispensable food item.

The exhibits inside the windmill belonged to the last miller residing there and were used to operate and maintain the building and milling mechanism.

St Paul’s Catacombs Rabat

Leave the sights and sounds of modern life behind you as you step down into another world – a burial ground from Punic, Roman and Byzantine times, representing the earliest and largest archaeological evidence of Christianity in Malta.

The catacombs form a typical complex of interconnected underground Roman cemeteries that were in use up to the 7th and possibly the 8th century AD. Part of the catacombs was re-utilised during the re-Christianisation of the island, around the 13th century, when an open space was re-cut and used as a Christian shrine decorated with murals.

Ħal Tarxien Prehistoric Complex Ħal Tarxien Have the honour and the privilege of stepping inside a UNESCO World Heritage Site! Discovered in 1913 by farmer Lorenzo Despott, the Ħal Tarxien Prehistoric Complex consists of four megalithic structures built in the late Neolithic and then re-adapted for use during the Early Bronze Age. The site was excavated between 1915 and 1919 by Sir Themistocles Zammit, Director of Museums at the time. This year marks the 110th anniversary since the first sketches of the site were made by Zammit himself during the initial excavations.

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Borġ in-Nadur Prehistoric Complex Birżebbuġa If you head down to the fascinating prehistoric site of Għar Dalam, don’t miss the opportunity to visit Borġ in-Nadur, located just 500m away. Excavated in the 1920s by eminent archaeologist Margaret Murray, Borġ in-Nadur yielded crucial information that helped our understanding of facets of Maltese prehistory, which had until then remained problematic, such as the differences between the Neolithic Period and the Bronze Age. Excavations conducted by David Trump in the 1950s uncovered Bronze Age huts, further enhancing the significance of this site.

Fort St Angelo Birgu No other fortress has been engaged with the same intensity in the shaping of Malta’s destiny as Fort St Angelo! Known as Castrum Maris in medieval times, this stronghold was christened as Fort St Angelo by the Knights of the Order of St John, who turned it into their headquarters. They remodelled the building extensively with the construction of a series of artillery platforms that marked the introduction of the bastioned system of defence on these islands. During the British period, the fort served as a shore establishment of the Royal Navy in Malta until the last detachment of foreign forces marched out of its walls in March 1979.

Fort St Elmo and the National War Museum Valletta This year is very special for these two sites, as the National War Museum celebrates the 50th anniversary since its inception and Fort St Elmo commemorates the 10th anniversary since it opened its doors to the public. The splendid, unobstructed views of Grand Harbour, enjoyed today from Fort St Elmo, originally served the purpose for which the star-shaped fort was built – to face and hold back the wrath of the Ottoman armada. Indeed, the fort received the brunt of the Ottoman forces during the Great Siege of 1565, resisting for a month against all odds until finally surrendering on 23rd June.

The National War Museum, located within the fort, covers 7,000 years of Maltese military history from the Bronze Age until Malta’s accession to the EU. Notable artefacts include military armour of the Order of St John and the Ottoman Turks, and Malta’s award for gallantry during World War II – the George Cross.

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Wied il-Mielaħ Window

Salt Pans

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25 ‘Kappar’ Capers

Żebbuġ

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Tal-Mixta Cave

Għasri

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Għarb

23 Xagħra Victoria

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Qala

Nadur 28

‘Bużbież’ Wild Fennel

Għajnsielem Sannat

Mġarr 22

Sanap Cliffs M

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KEMMUNA

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Crystal Lagoon

Passenger Ferry

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Vehicle & Passenger Ferry

Ċirkewwa

Red Tower

S T P A U L’ S ISLANDS

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Mellieħa

01 Popeye Village

16 St Paul’s Bay

‘Bajtar tax-Xewk’ Prickly Pears

09 ‘Frawli’ Strawberries 08 Mġarr 05

Mos ‘Merill’ National Bird

Rabat

Valletta

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Mdina 13.5km

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Dingli

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BEACHES 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15

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Anchor Bay Armier Bay Balluta Bay Delimara Point Fomm ir-Riħ Għadira Bay Għar Lapsi Ġnejna Bay Golden Bay Marsaskala Bay Marsaxlokk Bay Paradise Bay Pretty Bay Salina Bay St George's Bay

Dingli Cliffs

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

St Paul's Bay St Peter's Pool St Thomas Bay Wied iż-Żurrieq Xrobb l-Għaġin Blue Lagoon Santa Marija Bay Daħlet Qorrot Dwejra Bay Marsalforn Bay Ramla Bay San Blas Bay Xlendi Bay Xwejni Bay ~ Salt Pans

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‘Lampuki’ Dolphin Fish

INSTAGRAMMABLE SPOTS IN AND AROUND MDINA

A medieval narrow street.

‘Xemx’ Sun

KM Malta Airlines Airbus A320neo

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Casa Gourgion.

St Julian’s

03 Valletta

Gżira

Upper Barrakka Gardens 01

‘Ħobża tal-Malti’ Maltese Bread

Birgu Qormi

Żebbuġ

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Buskett

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Marsascala

Luqa

Palazzo Falson.

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ar

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Marsaxlokk

Qrendi

‘Qarnita’ Octopus

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Żurrieq

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sponsored by

FILFLA ‘Luzzu’ Traditional Fishing Boat

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Charles Bridge.

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TRAVEL

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TRAVEL

Words by

Ramona Depares Ramona is an author and journalist with an interest in culture-related topics. She runs her own food and culture website at ramonadepares.com

Prague:

the playground of the romantics Top tips for a visit to the City of 100 Spires in five full-on days.

It’s night-time under a magnificent, starlit sky, and though the air is nippy, Prague’s Charles Bridge is alive with music, magic tricks, food stalls, pet hawks being rented out for photo ops… The touristtrap vibes are real, but the setting itself is so gorgeous, so full of life, that it doesn’t really matter.

The moon reflecting on the Vltava and on the imposing stone sculptures is enough to make anyone dream, and a stroll across one of Europe’s most famous bridges is a must on any holiday in the City of 100 Spires, so that’s exactly how I kicked off my five-day stay.

Prague is, arguably, the ultimate mass-market city break. The tourist concentration is real, which is why I opted to visit during the winter low season. And yet, as soon as I check into my hotel and immediately set off to explore Malá Strana, it doesn’t take me long to realise that there’s no real low season here.

Malá Strana – across the river from the more popular Staré Mĕsto (Old Town), where I’m staying – is quieter. The streets are narrow and cobbled, and there are no restaurant touts trying to lure me in. I end up spending a couple of hours taking photos of the wonderful architecture before walking into St Martin restaurant, a hidden gem with a deceptively traditional façade that hides cool art, a minimalist décor and an excellent continental menu.

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Thus, my first night in this city started out at the most classic of tourist spots and then veered off the beaten track in a perfect combination of busy and quiet. The following day, I left my Airbnb nice and early and, in anticipation of a day that I knew full well would see me clocking over 20,000 steps, I went on the prowl for a lush buffet breakfast.

I found it at the Hotel City Centre, which, despite the uninspired name, laid out a spread that included unlimited Prosecco and freshly prepared dishes for a negligible €15 per person. It was sumptuous enough that I made it my go-to spot for the rest of my stay.

Following this excellent introduction to the city, I proceeded to include a handful of off-the-beaten-track attractions that I will be sharing with you. As always, the more ‘obvious’ tourist destinations should not be missed. In Prague, these include the Astronomical Clock on the façade of the City Hall, St Vitus Cathedral (the stained glass is simply magnificent), the Jewish Quarter and the adjoining cemetery and Prague Castle.

My first stop was the Medieval Underground Tour, a two-hour guided walk that took me all the way from the Old Town Hall to Franz Kafka Square. The underground passageways go back to the 12th century, and run about two storeys deep into the ground, with a very eerie atmosphere that makes you feel like you’ve

stepped into a parallel city. There’s quite a bit of walking to be done, but most of the terrain is flat.

The following day, I was booked to spend the morning at Prague Castle – do book online ahead of time, as otherwise the queues to get in are stratospheric. The castle is located on a hill just outside Malá Strana, a 15-minute tram ride away from the historical centre. So afterwards, I decided to explore this green area…

Here, I discovered the Museum of Alchemists and Magicians, so I walked right in. The exhibits are a mix of cringe and spooky fun, with the building itself being one of the main attractions. The top floor is particularly intriguing, with scores of old artefacts, and I used up a couple of hours meandering in peace.

If you’re the artsy type – and even if you’re not, but you’re up for some unusual fun – the iconic John Lennon Wall should be your next stop. Here, you can either follow everyone else and take a ream of Instagram shots, or you can do what I did and join a graffiti workshop. I’m quite rubbish at drawing, but this is more about the fun than the talent. Our group was small, and we had a pop artist to show us the ropes.

You can visit the John Lennon mural afterwards, with a more discerning eye.

My final unusual stop was at a club, but don’t worry, you don’t need to be 20 and raring for action to enjoy this one. The Cross Club is more of an arts centre, and it’s about enjoying the aesthetic, the steampunk architecture and a cocktail or two.

Early on in the evening, there are various events going on, such as poetry readings and indie film screenings. Later at night, the three-storey building comes into its own, with live DJs belting out anything from ska to rockabilly. On the night I was there, the genre was EDM and, even though my clubbing days are mostly behind me, I had a blast.

Five days were more than enough for me to fit in all the top landmarks and the lesserknown attractions. And I will close with one potentially life-saving tip. The Czechs do many things very well – coffee is not one of them, unless you know where to go. And the place to go is Čerstvě-pražená-káva on Truhlářská 33. It’s a literal hole in the wall, and they will take a good 15 minutes to pull up an espresso or a flat white, but the result is well worth the wait.

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Tombstones in the Jewish Quarter.

The Astronomical Clock.

Pebbled roads in the Old Town.

suggests

KM Malta Airlines operates regular flights between

Malta International Airport (MLA) and Prague (PRG) kmmaltairlines.com

Getting around The historic centre of Prague is very walkable, so get those steps in to make up for all the calories the hearty Czech cuisine will undoubtedly provide. The outskirts, like Malá Strana, are also easy to reach on foot, but my advice is to take a tram as there’s no point getting there tired. You can buy tickets directly from the PID Lítačka mobile app and make sure you tap your phone as soon as you get on.

Trams are also a bit of a historical attraction in the city, and number 42 serves as a more evocative Hop-on Hopoff bus. This is an excellent way to hit all the main attractions without sending your daily step count into overdrive. The route is circular, so it’s very convenient.

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TRAVEL

Words by

Lea Hogg Lea is a Malta-based journalist and writer, known for her TV programme on current affairs, cultural news and in-depth interviews about politics and global issues.

Walking through centuries in Delhi Beneath its Mughal domes and colonial boulevards, history and ambition meet in an extraordinary city, India’s seat of power, where every visit feels like a journey through time.

Long before I ever set foot in Delhi, I had already walked through its centuries in my imagination. From Paul Scott’s Jewel in the Crown, I followed William Dalrymple through to The Last Mughal, absorbing his portrait of Bahadur Shah Zafar, the emperor who wrote poetry as his dynasty crumbled. The Mughals were never just rulers; they were dreamers, relentless in their pursuit of beauty. And Delhi was their canvas.

When I first visited India as a teenager, and later during a two-year technology start-up project in Bangalore and a longer stint in Calcutta, I made a point of detouring to Delhi again and again. Dalrymple’s city wasn’t confined to the pages.

It was all around me: in the crimson walls of the Red Fort, the shadowed arches of Chhatta Chowk, and the delicate sandstone carvings that have survived centuries of dust and noise.

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1,000

Red Fort, Lal Qila.

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If you’re short on time in Delhi, skip the malls and manicured boulevards. Two places reveal more about the city than any modern skyline. Old Delhi still revolves around the Red Fort, Lal Qila. Its sandstone walls, built in 1639, housed Shah Jahan’s imperial dreams. Walk through the courtyards, and you glimpse ambition that once ruled much of the subcontinent.

Nearby, Jama Masjid rises with three domes and two minarets, vast enough for 25,000 worshippers, and open for anyone to pause and take in its grandeur.

Step outside the Red Fort, where imperial and colonial legacies collide with today’s commerce. The city is a layered patchwork with Mughal domes, colonial boulevards and glass towers, each competing for attention. Rickshaws jostle with scooters; vendors shout over the hubbub. Every turn feels like a crossing between centuries: spice stalls beside cellphone outlets, colonial havelis leaning against concrete blocks topped with satellite dishes.

Not far from this chaos, the wide avenues of Lutyens’ Delhi stretch past grand government buildings, the Rashtrapati Bhavan, and the Parliament House, their imposing architecture standing in contrast to the narrow, bustling streets of Old Delhi.

Artisanal cafés share the street with mithai shops, both dripping with ghee. Frying spices cling to the air – India’s fragrance, lingering long after you’ve left.

Walking alone has always offered the clearest glimpse of any city and Delhi was no different. While I usually have a destination in mind, I allow myself to be sidetracked. I slipped from the gloss into labyrinthine alleys, raw, alive and unstaged. Taxis squeezed through impossible gaps, children followed me, and vendors pressed snacks into my hands.

I stumbled upon Sita Ram Diwan Chand, a modest but iconic eatery in Paharganj, near New Delhi Railway Station, where people queue for its famous chole bhature – spiced chickpeas with puffed bread – served straight from the fryer since the 1950s. There’s no seating; patrons stand as they eat. The chole is spicy and complex, perfectly complemented by the fluffy bhature – a must for anyone seeking a taste of Delhi’s culinary history.

From food to shopping, one of the city’s best spots is Karol Bagh, particularly Ajmal Khan Road. It is lined with shops selling bridal saris, sequined lehengas, and other garments, a vibrant window into Delhi’s local culture.

Ghaffar Market nearby is another gem, especially for electronics, a maze of stalls offering every imaginable gadget. Amid the shopping, vendors pour steaming cups of chai, adding to the market’s authenticity.

You can reach Delhi with KM Malta Airlines and Turkish Airlines via Istanbul, ITA Airways via Rome, via Zurich with SWISS, via Paris with Air France, and more.

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TRAVEL

Paharganj’s Main Bazar has a different rhythm. A hub for backpackers, its hostels and souvenir stalls pack the narrow streets. Woks clatter, cumin sizzles, and the scent mixes with diesel exhaust. It’s a place to lose yourself in Delhi’s rhythm and strike up conversations with locals and fellow travellers alike.

Yet Delhi’s life doesn’t end at dusk. Evenings often brought me into gleaming apartments with glass walls and wellstocked bars, where conversations flowed in impeccable English with mild to heavy Indian accents and a quiet code of belonging. Who was old money, who was new, and who truly belonged in the boardrooms of power?

For a time, I was the new flavour of the month, a fresh face invited to gatherings where local women shaped business deals with ease. Ambitious industrial heirs, tech founders and financiers mingled confidently with government officials and diplomats. Yet beneath this cosmopolitan surface, Delhi’s class hierarchy persisted quietly, as unyielding as its old stone walls.

It was during these soirées that I discovered the secret of dum biryani. Raj, the personal chef of a prominent financier, would appear from the kitchen with a steaming pot sealed in dough. The first crack of its crust released a fragrance so deep. Each grain of rice gleamed with saffron, the meat tender and perfumed, the whole creation both humble and regal.

And for anyone visiting Delhi, a detour to Agra is essential to witness the city of dreams and devotion that has shaped India for centuries. The Taj Mahal exceeds every expectation. Floating above its plinth, its white marble softened in the Yamuna’s reflection, it feels more apparition than architecture: a love poem carved in stone

by Ustad Isa under Shah Jahan’s grief for Mumtaz.

Photographs, however polished, cannot prepare you for the Taj. For centuries, Europeans tried to claim its design, attributing it to obscure Italians or French artisans like Austin de Bordeaux, who certainly left their mark on Delhi’s palaces.

But standing before the Taj, you see it for what it is: a creation of Indian and Persian craft, Isa’s genius guided by an emperor’s love. The Taj is devotion made visible.

Delhi in March is a city on fire with colour. During the festival of Holi, the streets explode in pinks and greens, chaotic and alive. In the frenzy of the celebrations in Delhi, I discovered a stall selling the authentic Punjabi samosa.

I have become a samosa connoisseur, if one can exist.

As a teenager, walking the streets of Bur Dubai, I was already familiar with the true Punjabi samosa: potato and peas tucked into rough, imperfect pastry, oversized and unsophisticated. The restaurant samosa – small, precise, manicured – is not even a close comparison. Punjabi samosa is pure street food: greasy paper, oil reused 10 times over, chutney sharp enough to make your eyes water, utterly unpretentious.

Memories of Holi in Delhi came rushing back last year when I celebrated it in Malta with the Indian diaspora at the invitation of the High Commissioner of India. The occasion was warm, communal, a happy family celebration, but it lacked the chaos and thrill of Delhi. And that's yet another reason to visit.

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tips

recipe

Must-See Delhi

Rashtrapati Bhavan.

Qutb Minar: Standing 72.5 metres tall, with building starting in 1199, this brick minaret is a marvel of medieval architecture, surrounded by royal tombs and the mysterious iron pillar.

Jama Masjid: Completed in 1656, it’s one of India’s largest mosques, with space for 25,000 worshippers and stunning views of the walled city Jama Masjid .

Lotus Temple: Opened in 1986, the temple’s flower-like design invites quiet reflection and awe, welcoming visitors of all faiths.

The statue of Lord Hanuman in Karol Bagh.

The Red Fort (Lal Qila): Located in Old Delhi, the historic part of the city, it is very accessible from the Chandni Chowk metro station and is a short drive from central Delhi landmarks.

.....

The Taj Mahal and Agra How to get from Delhi to Agra: Gatimaan Express the fastest train, departing from Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station at 8.10am and arriving in Agra at 9.50am (TripSavvy).

Shatabdi Express departing from New Delhi Railway Station at 6am, reaching Agra at 8.10am (Tripadvisor).

Taj Express another option, taking approximately 2.5 hours.

Self-drive or taxi approximately three to four hours via the Yamuna Expressway (Rough Guide).

Taj Mahal visiting hours:

The Taj Mahal.

Open daily 30 minutes before sunrise to 30 minutes before sunset (tajmahal.gov.in) Closed on Fridays for general viewing; open for prayers.

Night viewing available on full moon nights and two days before and after, from 8.30pm to 12.30am.

Sharing culinary secrets Here’s how to make RAJ’S CHICKEN DUM BIRYANI INGREDIENTS: 500g chicken (bone-in pieces) 1 cup basmati rice 1 large onion, thinly sliced 2 tbsp ghee (clarified butter) 1/2 cup plain yogurt 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp red chili powder 1 tsp garam masala 1/2 tsp turmeric powder 1/2 tsp cumin seeds 2 green cardamom pods 1 cinnamon stick 2 cloves 1 bay leaf 10g chopped mint leaves 10g chopped coriander leaves 30g slivered almonds and cashews, lightly toasted 30g golden raisins or chopped dried apricots Saffron strands soaked in 2 tbsp warm milk Salt, to taste Water, as needed METHOD Marinate chicken with yogurt, gingergarlic paste, red chili, garam masala, turmeric and salt for 30 minutes.

Rinse and soak basmati rice, then par-cook in spiced water with cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and bay leaf. Sauté onions in ghee until golden and reserve half. Cook chicken until nearly done. Layer half the rice over the chicken, sprinkle nuts, dried fruits, mint and coriander. Top with remaining rice. Make wells with a wooden spoon, pour saffron milk into them, scatter remaining nuts, fruits and herbs. Cover and steam on very low heat for 20-25 minutes. Fluff, top with reserved onions, and serve with raita or a fresh salad.

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E X P E R I E N C E M A LTA’ S U N I Q U E N AT I O N A L T H E AT R E

WITH JEREMY GRECH

DAILY VISITS AVAILABLE

HISTORY

Words by

David Carabott David is a teacher, specialised in mentoring students of different abilities. As a traveller, his target is to visit all the countries in the world. When he is not in Malta or travelling elsewhere, you can find him somewhere in Rome.

The most beautiful floor in the world Look down when you visit St John’s Co-Cathedral if you want to see what may be its most precious treasure – history, faith and artistry laid out in a marble masterpiece beneath your feet across over 400 tombstones.

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HISTORY

I visit St John’s Co-Cathedral whenever I seek a moment of calm away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. As soon as I enter this peaceful abode in the heart of Valletta, the outside world fades and gets replaced by centuries of prayer, art and history.

But when I finally did, I discovered what might be St John’s most precious treasure: its floor. There revealed itself a masterpiece: a mosaic of history, beauty and meaning that Malta is uniquely privileged to hold.

A TAPESTRY OF MARBLE AND MEMORY The 17th century brought the baroque, a style that transformed Maltese interiors with elaborate carvings, gilded foliage and grand marble monuments, turning churches into dazzling expressions of faith and artistry.

Yet even in this familiar serenity, there is always something new to uncover. I am fortunate to have a friend who works at this church, the sacristan Godwin Dalli, guiding me to details and sharing stories hidden in the stones – stories I might otherwise miss.

STORIES IN STONE During one visit, I noticed a man meticulously restoring a tombstone.

Curious, I struck up a conversation.

He explained that he and his father work full-time maintaining the more than 400 gravestones that cover this extraordinary floor. I was captivated. I wanted to know everything: the secrets and stories they hold; the care required to preserve their beauty.

Stretching from wall to wall, this floor is far from ordinary. Over 400 tombstones, inlaid with vibrant marble, recount the stories of the Knights of St John, the sons of nobles, aristocrats and Europe’s wealthiest families.

They honour the people resting there, most of them hailing from powerful European lineages.

Every inch of this sacred space echoes with history, artistry and devotion. From its gilded walls to its extraordinary marble floor, the co-cathedral truly deserves its title of Malta’s crown jewel.

LOOKING UP, LOOKING DOWN During my visits, I was always drawn upwards, mesmerised by the gilded walls, painted vaults and baroque splendour that shines at every turn.

For years, wandering through Europe’s greatest cities, I had been taught to look up to marvel at domes, façades and ceilings. Looking down almost felt like missing out.

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These tombstones are far more than mere markers of the dead.

Each one is a work of art, a tapestry in pietra dura, a type of hardstone meticulously cut and pieced together, portraying coats of arms, allegorical figures, symbols of mortality and Latin inscriptions.

Walking across the nave feels like stepping through a living storybook: every stone a page, every design an echo from the past.

Skeletons, angels, hourglasses, crowns, coats of arms and symbols of victory and eternity are intricately carved into the stone. Centuries ago, visitors would bend low to read the names, whisper prayers and reflect that one day they too might rest beneath these ice-cold ornate marble memorials. Latin epitaphs celebrate triumph, courage and virtue through a visual language that is both sacred and worldly. Skeletons with sickles and hourglasses mark the passage of time; angels trumpet the deeds of the worthy; crowns, shields and weapons proclaim noble lineage and valour.

Photos: Courtesy of St John's Co-Cathedral Foundation. Here lies Fra Joseph de Langon of Auvergne. From the inscription on his tombstone, we know that he was wounded while an Algerian flagship was captured. He died as a victor at the age of 41. He was Lieutenant of the Fleets and the battle engraved on his tombstone was a dreadful blockade while leading a supply convoy to Oran. He won it, but still did not manage to come out of it alive. Grand Master Ramon Perellos himself paid for his tombstone in dedication to his merits.

HISTORY

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HISTORY

Each tombstone is a unique work of art, meticulously crafted from coloured inlaid marble, dating from the early 17th to the late 18th century, a silent, enduring testament to history etched in stone.

FROM FLAGSTONES TO AULA HEROUM The floor’s story is as captivating as its artistry. In its earliest days, the cathedral had only a plain flagstone floor. From the 1600s onwards, slabs arrived from the marble workshops of Messina, Palermo, Genoa, Florence and Naples, where the craft flourished. Over time, Maltese artisans joined their Italian counterparts, transforming the floor into a true aula heroum – a hall of fame for Europe’s most illustrious knights. Their Latin epitaphs, rich with baroque symbolism, proclaim triumph, honour and the inevitability of death.

SURVIVAL THROUGH CENTURIES Even as tastes shifted, from Mannerist restraint to baroque exuberance, and later to 19thcentury rearrangements, the floor was preserved when so many others were lost. Time, footsteps and even stiletto heels have worn its surface, yet careful restoration continues to safeguard it.

Today, it is no longer a place of intercessory prayer, but it remains one of the most extraordinary memorials in Europe: history, faith and artistry laid out in marble beneath our feet. It is no wonder that Marquis Nicholas de Piro, who owns Casa Rocca Piccola, the last private palazzo in Valletta, called it “the most beautiful floor in the world”.

After so many visits, I understand why.

A PERSONAL REVELATION What once seemed merely the floor of a grand co-cathedral revealed itself as one of Malta’s greatest treasures. It is not only stunning but deeply symbolic, a reminder of mortality, faith, honour and the enduring legacy of the Knights who shaped Malta’s history.

It took me a long time to see it, but now I am in love with it. Today, whenever I enter the co-cathedral, I find myself looking both up at the magnificence above and down at the wonders below – two worlds of beauty merged to recount history.

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Francisco de Goya

Disasters of War Fundación MAPFRE Collections

4th November - 18th January Exhibited at the Grand Master’s Palace

heritagemalta.mt

Words by

Thomas Camilleri Creative director by day and actor by night, Thomas also founded Lazarus Tiles, a project through which he saves and documents Malta's cement tile heritage.

Ryan Abela.

MUSIC

More than a theatre Working within such a historic building is so inspiring for Ryan Abela, artistic director of the Mediterranean Conference Centre. You simply can’t avoid the weight of history around you in Malta’s largest theatre.

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MUSIC

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MUSIC

As a child, Ryan Abela was used to late nights. His father Paul, a well-known maestro and musician, would rehearse late into the night when preparing for a show as many performers and musicians do, fitting their artistic endeavours around their day jobs.

He didn’t mind though, not for a second. Sat at the foot of his father’s podium as he guided the band through all manner of complex passages, Ryan was a sponge, taking in not only his father's motions, but keenly observing the musicians as they brandished their instruments with ease.

As always, being the child of talented and well-known parents can be both a boon and a curse – his mother, Georgina, represented Malta in the 1991 Eurovision alongside Paul Giordimaina and has had a stellar career in the arts.

Ryan, however, identifies more with the ‘blessing’ side of things: “Music has always been a part of my life. Growing up with my parents meant that rehearsals, performances and conversations about music were simply part of everyday life. It was a privilege, but it also set a standard – I saw first-hand the discipline, passion and craft required to sustain a career in music. That instilled in me both respect for the art form and a drive to make my own mark.”

In a serendipitous twist of fate, Ryan was recently appointed Artistic Director of the Mediterranean Conference Centre, Malta’s largest theatre and host to all manner of shows and events. After so many of those late nights in the pit, he finds himself all over the building today and wearing many hats.

“Part of the MCC’s uniqueness is that it’s a cultural hub as well as a community space. My role is primarily artistic, but I work closely with the operations and events teams to make sure everything runs smoothly. The key is flexibility: one night you may have a major theatrical production, and the next day a corporate conference. It’s about respecting the needs of each event while still upholding the MCC’s artistic and cultural standards.

“Working within such a historic building is inspiring.

You can’t avoid the weight of history around you.

That said, working in such a heritage location does come with certain limitations,” Ryan acknowledges.

To call the building historic is putting it mildly.

Sitting atop one of Valletta’s gargantuan curtain walls with magnificent Grand Harbour views, the MCC was built as an infirmary, known as the Sacra Infermeria, by the Knights Hospitallers when they began the construction of the capital after barely scraping through the Great Siege of 1565.

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La Valette Hall.

MUSIC

To the left of the theatre lies a seemingly never-ending hall that was once the Great Ward and was used for treating patients until the early 20th century.

“We have to be careful about installations, staging, or even simple logistics because we’re protecting a landmark. That said, those restrictions push us to be more creative. The beauty of the space always adds magic to every performance,” Ryan says.

Interestingly, the theatre itself was built within the enormous courtyard of the building, so when you look at the balconies on either side of the auditorium, which today are the theatre boxes, they originally allowed patients to look out onto the garden.

With its use as a hospital becoming outdated by World War I, it assumed many guises, including housing the Police Headquarters and operating as a school. It wasn’t until the late 1970s that a thorough renovation commenced, and the theatre was constructed. Since then, it has become a staple venue locally and has borne witness to many memorable moments.

“I love the diversity of all we have on offer at the MCC, though I may be partial to musical theatre

and orchestral concerts. November is shaping up to be an exciting month, with a variety of performances, and as we head into the festive season, audiences can expect special holiday programming that appeals to families, music lovers and theatre enthusiasts alike,” Ryan announces.

“We also produce our own concerts, and after last month’s Broadway Bound, we’re excited to present Rockwired with Malta’s biggest rock choir on the 29th and 30th of November.”

While the corridors might have once thrummed with the footsteps of hurried nurses and the shuffling of convalescents, there’s a different rhythm today. Whether it’s groups of crew in black T-shirts, building sets, or audiences excitedly making their way to their seats, there’s never a dull moment.

“The MCC is more than a theatre – it’s a living, breathing part of Malta’s cultural identity. I’d encourage everyone, whether or not they think of themselves as ‘theatre people’, to come and experience it,” Ryan says. “There’s something for all, and the magic of live performance is unlike anything else.”

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CULTURE

Words by

This month’s

must-see events Before the festive lights take over, November steps into the spotlight with a season of creativity that’s anything but quiet. Expect daring art, moving music and grand theatricality, all part of this month’s handpicked cultural highlights from inkontru.app

The Full Monty When: 1st & 2nd November Where: Teatru Manoel, Valletta Sheffield’s cheekiest steelworkers are back... this time in Malta! The BAFTA-winning British comedy, The Full Monty, takes to the Maltese stage with local talent in Simon Beaufoy’s hit adaptation about friendship, resilience and bare-all bravery that promises laughs, heart and a touch of northern grit.

Another World Beyond: The Art of Joseph L Mallia When: 1st - 9th November Where: MUŻA, Valletta This retrospective spans over 60 years of Joseph Lawrence Mallia’s career. The exhibition moves from his early figurative studies and still-life to Maltese landscapes and cityscapes, and later to abstract works and self-portraits.

In The Absence of Words When: 6th - 28th November Where: Bizzilla Art Gallery, Floriana KYLO World Album Launch When: 5th - 7th November Where: MCAST Theatre, Paola Maltese multi-instrumentalist Kyle Drakard, known as KYLO, steps into the spotlight with his debut solo album. Expect a genre-bending live show, blending electric guitar, sitar, drums and vocals, with a full band of local and international collaborators bringing his vision to life.

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Artist Lisa Galea invites audiences into a world of silence and colour. Her abstract canvases explore emotion without explanation, trading words for texture and feeling. A deeply personal exhibition that asks viewers to experience art quietly and let the colours speak instead.

CULTURE

Valletta Early Opera Festival When: 7th - 9th November Where: Teatru Manoel, Valletta A rare double bill of Gluck’s Il Parnaso Confuso and La Corona lights up the Manoel. Expect myth, wit and female heroism in these reimagined one-act operas, from Roaring Twenties opulence to wartime grit, performed in Valletta’s most historic theatre.

Kuraġġ 2025 – A Concert Inspired by Real-Life Stories When: 7th - 9th November Where: Teatru Salesjan, Sliema A heartfelt concert celebrating courage, hope and the power of music. Organised by the Malta Community Chest Fund, Kuraġġ shares real stories of resilience through songs personally chosen by patients – each performance a moving reminder of strength, love and joy found in adversity.

ŻiguŻajg Arts Festival For Children When: 14th - 23rd November Where: Various venues, Valletta Malta’s beloved arts festival for children and young people returns with a packed programme of theatre, puppetry, dance and poetry. Designed for ages ranging from toddlers to teens, ŻiguŻajg is all about sparking imagination, creativity and curiosity through the magic of live performance.

World of Reroot: Eyes to Argus When: 22nd November Where: Teatru Salesjan, Sliema Maltese post-rock outfit Eyes to Argus unveil World of Reroot, a new live experience reimagining their acclaimed album through alternate versions, visuals and immersive storytelling. This promises to bring ethereal soundscapes and atmospheric layers in one of the band’s most ambitious performances yet.

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CULTURE

TRADITIONAL FEASTS & CELEBRATIONS St John of the Cross, Ta’ Xbiex 16th November

Once a quiet seaside outpost of farmhouses and family villas, Ta’ Xbiex today is a cosmopolitan waterfront town, home to a mix of nationalities and a lively stretch of bars and easy-going restaurants overlooking the marina.

At its centre stands the Church of St John of the Cross, built by the Discalced Carmelites and inaugurated in 1958 on land donated by Baron Pietro Paolo Testaferrata Moroni Viani. Its design is simple and elegant, inspired by Romano-basilica architecture. A notable feature is the wrought-iron crucifix by Salv Muscat of Luqa, designed by Marion Pace, inspired by St John of the Cross’s original drawings.

Each November, the Feast of St John of the Cross brings a touch of the town’s former village spirit back to life. The celebrations blend quiet reverence with local warmth, from processions, vespers and music in the church square to a strong sense of togetherness among long-time residents. Amid Ta’ Xbiex’s modern, international rhythm, the feast remains a heartfelt reminder of its roots in faith, community and gratitude.

For a guide to upcoming religious celebrations and traditional feasts across the Maltese Islands, be sure to visit inkontru.app

INSTALL inkontru.app Step into Malta’s scene with inkontru.app, your personal guide to all the latest art, culture and heritage events in Malta and Gozo. More than just a calendar, the app connects you with exciting events and artists with exclusive interviews and video features. Easily find event details, get directions and purchase tickets – all in one place. Need a ride? Book a cab effortlessly through the app and share your plans with friends and family with ease.

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CULTURE

ANNIE Mediterranean Conference Centre, Valletta FM Theatre Productions – renowned producers of Rapunzel: A Tangled Panto, Dear Evan Hansen and Jesus Christ Superstar – proudly present the beloved family classic Annie on 1st and 2nd November. With its unforgettable songs and heart-warming story, Annie has enchanted audiences worldwide for decades. This timeless musical follows the plucky young orphan as she sets out to find her family, spreading hope, laughter and joy along the way. Featuring a stellar cast, this dazzling production is brought to life under the direction of Chiara Hyzler, with musical direction by Kris Spiteri and choreography by Francesco Nicodeme. showshappening.com

SPAZJU KREATTIV - MALTA’S ONLY ARTHOUSE CINEMA Castille Place, Valletta Spazju Kreattiv is home to Malta’s only arthouse cinema. It presents newly released arthouse titles, local productions and acclaimed documentaries, alongside live broadcasts from leading international stages such as the National Theatre and the MET Opera. Through its diverse film programme, Spazju Kreattiv supports Maltese filmmakers, nurtures cinematic appreciation and fosters cultural exchange by connecting audiences with distinctive voices and stories from around the world. spazjukreattiv kreattivita.org

TEN08 ONE VISION OF QUEEN NYE LIVE Make your New Year’s Eve magical – Malta’s most unforgettable celebration awaits! Marc Martel and One Vision of Queen ignite the stage with Queen’s most iconic anthems – live in concert! As heard in the Oscar-winning movie Bohemian Rhapsody, Martel’s voice is the closest you’ll get to Freddie Mercury himself. A super line-up of local and international talent awaits!

Ready to rock? Get your tickets now from showshappening.com before they’re gone!

VALLETTA WATERFRONT Triq il-Vittmi Furjaniżi tal-Gwerra, Floriana Discover this hidden gem within Malta's Grand Harbour, where history meets modern indulgence. Enjoy panoramic views, exciting activities and delectable dining experiences along this promenade. Savour Chinese, American, Mediterranean, sushi, or local cuisine in beautifully refurbished 1752-built stores, or dine al fresco by the water's edge. Just a short walk from central Valletta and Floriana, and across from the Three Cities, experience fun and relaxation away from the crowds. There is always something happening at Valletta Waterfront, with cultural celebrations, seasonal events, live music, special themed nights, and family-friendly activities that bring the historic promenade to life. vallettawaterfront vallettawaterfront.com

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Colour, Form & Composition: The Enduring Influence of

MILTON AVERY Harold Ancart March Avery Andrew Cranston Nicolas Party

Henni Alftan Gary Hume Jonas Wood

25 October 2025 – 4 April 2026 MICAS, Floriana

Opening Hours

FIND US

Tue 12:00 – 18:00 Wed 10:00 – 18:00 Thu 10:00 – 18:00 Fri 10:00 – 20:00 Sat 10:00 – 20:00 Sun 10:00 – 18:00

Supported by:

The Milton and Sally Avery Arts Foundation Waqas Wajahat, New York

twistees.com

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Dramatic Art, I was performing Shakespeare across the world, but the lure of opera kept calling me back until I knew it was where I truly belonged.

Brett Nicholas Brown.

For newcomers, what makes these productions appealing?

First of all, there’s the sheer magic of Gluck’s music, which brings mythological stories to life with radiant clarity and emotional power. These works revel in playful artistic mischief and valiant courage. The experience is not only a feast for the ears but also for the eyes, with haute couture creations by Malta’s leading fashion designer Luke Azzopardi adorning the rising stars of the Maltese stage.

INKONTRU.APP MEETS...

We catch up with stage director Brett Nicholas Brown ahead of this year’s Valletta Early Opera Festival. He shares how history, fashion and myth intertwine in this imaginative double bill at Teatru Manoel.

When did you first fall in love with opera?

I first stepped into opera as a child, singing for Opera Australia. I still remember the moment I heard the monumental sound of the orchestra and voices together. It was overwhelming and intoxicating.

Later, after graduating from the Royal Academy of

Your productions draw from the Roaring Twenties and World War II. What sparked those choices?

I wanted eras from the not-too-distant past that could echo the unexpected dramatic arc created between these two works. For me, the drawing room of an English country manor became the perfect stage. The Roaring Twenties lend a joyful sense of liberation and artistic frivolity. As time passes, the shadow of World War II falls over the manor and the drawing room is transformed into a wartime hospital.

What does staging these works at Teatru Manoel add to the experience?

To sit in Teatru Manoel is to be at the cultural and artistic heart of Malta. Built in 1732 by the Knights of St John, it is one of the oldest continuously working theatres in the world and among the most beautiful.

Its warm acoustics and intimate scale create a unique closeness between performers and audience.

WORKSHOPS & MASTERCLASSES Learn a fun new skill or step outside your comfort zone with these exciting workshops and masterclasses coming your way.

Pottery Painting When: Thursdays to Sundays, throughout November Where: Villa Bologna, Attard Get creative in the timeless charm of Villa Bologna with hands-on pottery painting sessions. All materials are provided. Just bring your imagination and enjoy a relaxing few hours transforming blank ceramics into your own hand-painted masterpieces.

Modern Calligraphy When: 10 & 15 November Where: Art Academy, Mosta and Żurrieq Ever wanted to create beautiful handwritten lettering like the ones you see on invitations, greeting cards, or journals, but don’t know where to start? Join this fun and beginner-friendly workshop where you’ll be introduced to the fundamentals of modern calligraphy.

Discover and experience more with inkontru.app, your web-based application that prioritises functionality and performance, meaning no need to download, seamless updates, no storage space taken and easy sharing. Enjoy!

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ART

Words by

MICAS

Milton Avery, New York City, c. 1930.

Clockwise from left: Nicolas Party, Henni Alftan, March Avery, Jonas Wood, Gary Hume, Harold Ancart and Andrew Cranston.

Colour, form and composition: Milton Avery

Watch this space! Contemporary greats in a rare Malta showcase of American master Milton Avery at MICAS. The Malta International Contemporary Art Space in Floriana hosts the island’s contemporary art highlight of 2025 all throughout the year and until March 2026 – a rare and unique showcase of modern and contemporary art from seven major global artists, hanging alongside 30 works of master American colourist Milton Avery.

“This is a significant, one-of-a-kind exhibition for Malta – MICAS is the second only European institution to hold a Milton Avery retrospective, together with the participation of a stellar cast of contemporary artists, each with a conscious response to the Avery works to be shown,” says curator and MICAS artistic director Edith Devaney.

Widely recognised as an important 20th-century American artist, Avery’s (1885-1965) works are held in a multitude of key institutional collections across the US. Titled Colour, Form and Composition: Milton Avery and his Enduring Influence on Contemporary Painting, the exhibition shows his work hanging alongside responses by contemporary artists who credit him as an influence. These include Henni Alftan, Milton’s daughter March Avery, Harold Ancart, Andrew Cranston, Gary Hume, Nicolas Party and Jonas Wood.

Avery is widely credited as having influenced the younger protagonists of Abstract Expressionism, namely Mark Rothko, Barnett Newman and Adolph

Gottlieb, who expressed their deep admiration for, and debt to, his work and practice throughout their careers.

“To an extent, he became the link between two significant 20th-century national movements, American Impressionism and Abstract Expressionism – so this MICAS exhibition is exploring the extent to which Avery and his oeuvre continues to be held in high regard by some of the leading contemporary artists of our time,” Devaney says.

MICAS executive chairperson Phyllis Muscat says the Avery showcase once again confirms Malta Contemporary as the island’s premier destination for contemporary art.

“MICAS is a platform for the excellence of the island’s contemporary artists, as well as a destination for international contemporary art. This Avery exhibition is a high-water mark for our very young ambitions, hosting the work of an American master of colour and responses from seven painters.”

Effectively a survey of Avery’s entire career, it covers his mid-career subjects from the mid- to late 1940s, as well as his late work from the 1950s through to the early 1960s, demonstrating the continuing influence of European Modernism on his work, particularly Matisse; as well as the profound influence Avery had on the emerging colour field of Abstract Expressionist painters, and what he took from them as his works became less dependent on the figurative content. micas.art

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ART

Words by

City of Art

Art, fashion and cinema: 1960 to today A new exhibition, Blow-Up, examines how image-making has not only documented reality but increasingly shaped and distorted it.

A new exhibition Blow-Up by City of Art at Spazju Kreattiv examines how, since the 1960s, imagemaking has not only documented reality but increasingly shaped and distorted it. What began as cinema reflecting the world around it has, 60 years later, inverted into a filmic reality where images dictate how we perceive truth.

Taking its title and conceptual starting point from Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1966 masterpiece Blow-Up, the exhibition traces the complex relationship between art, fashion and cinema from the 1960s to today. Across four rooms, it juxtaposes canonical artefacts from the decade with contemporary works, posing the film’s enduring, unanswerable question: is all that remains of the real, that which resists being seen?

The exhibition includes artworks and artefacts by, or featuring, Helmut Newton, Christian Dior, Andrew Grima, Andy Warhol, Karlheinz Stockhausen, Joana Biarnés, David Hockney and Sylvia Plath.

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City of Art’s second multidisciplinary project, Blow-Up extends into a wider programme alongside the exhibition.

As an integral part of it, an academic seminar on 6th December will provide a space for in-depth discussion of the project’s central themes and critical assumptions.

Bringing together a panel of academics and practitioners, and moderated by Maria Theuma, the seminar invites dialogue across disciplines and perspectives.

The seminar also marks the official launch of the Blow-Up catalogue, the publication accompanying the interdisciplinary exhibition. Structured in two parts, it offers both a visual survey and a discursive reflection: a richly illustrated record of works featured in the exhibition, including photography, cinema, performance, fashion, music and archival material

Photo: Simon Abrahams. David Hockney.

ART

alongside a collection of original writings by local and international contributors. Artists, scholars and curators each reflect on a concept, figure, artefact, or cultural phenomenon resonant with the project’s wider concerns.

More than a companion to the exhibition, the Blow-Up publication serves as a platform for interdisciplinary thinking across eras and mediums. Moving between the cultural ferment of the 1960s and contemporary questions of visibility, power and mediated experience, it offers a lens on how we see, and how we are seen, today.

As part of the ancillary programme, Spazju Kreattiv will also host an interview on 8th November between Maltese couturier Luke Azzopardi and Francesca Grima, jewellery designer and daughter

Photo: Marija Grech. Francesca Grima.

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ART

of the renowned jeweller of Maltese heritage Andrew Grima (1921–2007).

Andrew Grima is widely celebrated as one of the most innovative jewellery designers of the 20th century, often hailed as the "father of modern jewellery". Known for his sculptural approach and bold use of unconventional materials, Grima revolutionised post-war jewellery design, counting royalty and cultural icons among his clients. His legacy continues to shape the dialogue between art, design and adornment.

Francesca, who now oversees the Grima heritage and contemporary practice, has dedicated herself to preservingand expanding her father’s extraordinary legacy. Her work ensures that his visionary contribution to jewellery design continues to resonate with new audiences and generations of makers.

This event marks Francesca’s first visit to Malta, making the occasion particularly significant.

In conversation with the City of Art

team, she will reflect on her father’s life and work, the ongoing relevance of his practice, and her own role in sustaining one of the most important names in modern jewellery.

As part of the programme of Blow-Up by City of Art, Azzopardi Studio will also present its 22nd collection, titled Venus in Furs, on 13th December.

Unlike previous seasons, where the studio has staged highly anticipated solo presentations, this new collection will be unveiled within the wider context of the Blow-Up exhibition, drawing upon its central engagement with the imagemaking of the 1960s.

Founded by Luke Azzopardi, the studio has established itself internationally for its philosophical approach to dressmaking, weaving together historical research, decadent aesthetics and a rigorous commitment to craftsmanship.

Past collections have been presented as multidisciplinary experiences; immersive events that move beyond fashion into performance, theatre and visual art, earning the studio a reputation for challenging conventions of both couture and presentation.

With the new collection, Venus in Furs, Azzopardi Studio turns to the visual language of the 1960s, not through the lens of nostalgia, but as a means of renegotiating its codes for the future. The collection interrogates the decade’s radical shifts in art, cinema and fashion to craft garments that are at once decadent and forward-looking clothing, not of the past, but of tomorrow.

Blow-Up is on from 8th November 2025 to 4th January 2026. It is being held under the patronage of City of Art’s main patrons Jordi Goetstouwers and Valeria Limentani, alongside an extensive list of sponsors and supporters.

For tickets, registration and more information, visit cityofart.eu

A scene from Blow-Up, courtesy of Warner Bros. Pictures; image from Alamy.

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ARCHITECTURE

Words by

David Carabott

Walking through a live gallery My first meeting with Richard England was at Bologna Airport in northern Italy. On that occasion, we exchanged mobile numbers. A few years later, we crossed paths again, this time in Gozo, where one of his exhibitions unfolded against the background of the island’s salt-kissed shores.

Soon after, he welcomed me to his luminous studio at The Gardens in St Julian’s. From that day onwards, we have not stopped exchanging ideas, sharing stories, and enjoying silences that speak as eloquently as words.

generation of creators. In 2023, he was awarded the Freedom of the City of London honour in recognition of his outstanding contributions to architecture. Here’s why…

WHERE ART MEETS LANDSCAPE England’s creations are never monuments to the self but celebrations of place. Each work enters dialogue with history, resonates with the natural environment, and is a reminder that art can both shelter and liberate.

England’s work is borne of the same philosophy that guides his life: shapes, colours and spaces that breathe with the land, sky and sea that cradle them.

His legacy – a constellation of works scattered across the islands like waypoints on a poetic map – illuminates Malta. To follow England’s trail across the islands is to step into a visual diary one that merges architecture and sculpture with the intimacy of lived spaces.

Among Malta’s modern visionaries, few have left a mark as vivid as this architect, sculptor, poet, artist, academic and the last of Malta’s golden

In Sliema, the marble sculpture White Shadows captures a family in motion, projecting shapes across the pavement that shift with the sun to remind

Photos: Prof. Richard England and Patrick van Schaik. The Word Biblical Garden, Paceville.

Following Richard England’s architectural and artistic trail is an invitation to encounter the very soul of Malta.

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ARCHITECTURE

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Aquasun Lido, St Julian's.

passers-by of time and presence. In St Julian’s, the landmark Love Monument reveals its message only when reflected in water or through its shadow, a reminder that love is often glimpsed indirectly.

Valletta holds some of his most important works: the striking Central Bank Annexe and the Millennium Project at St James Cavalier’s Spazju Kreattiv, where historic fortifications were reimagined as a cultural hub, alive with activity. In both projects, the interventions remain carefully confined within the fortifications, reflecting England’s respect for the texture and spirit of the past.

Further inland, the Sculpture Garden of Verdala Palace at Buskett Gardens holds a multi-coloured penguins’ installation.

England’s spiritual works are equally compelling.

The Church of St Joseph in Manikata was his first built work, a daring blend of modernism with Malta’s vernacular traditions. Later came the Church of St Francis of Assisi in Qawra, a serene interpretation of a sacred space, and the Dar il-Ħanin Samaritan conference centre in Santa Venera, where architecture serves compassion and community.

In St Julian’s, the complex comprising the Millennium Chapel, the rooftop Word meditation garden and the WOW (Wishing Others Well) centre, conceived as tranquil spaces for reflection amid the bustle of modern life, stands as an embodiment of England’s architectural philosophy.

In Blata l-Bajda, the church of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal, where the blessed remains of Malta’s first and only saint, San Ġorġ Preca, are enshrined, carries the refined elegance of his design principles and offers a place where simplicity and proportion become acts of devotion.

His modern compositions speak a different language.

In Msida, the University of Malta extension shows how contemporary design can be woven seamlessly into the heritage of a campus. The Gateway building serves as the university's main entrance and exemplifies this integration.

England’s residential and hospitality projects also carry his signature. An example is the sculptural lines of Villa G in Siġġiewi. At Mġarr, Ir-Razzett ta’ Sandrina blends traditional charm with contemporary elegance, while several structures within Lancaster Court in Buġibba, a vibrant 1960s complex distinguished by vivid colours, add rhythm to the seaside town.

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BEAUTY IN EVERY BITE

LAND YOUR MOMENT

Richard England at his home.

A Garden for Myriam, St Julian's.

Dar il-Ħanin Samaritan in Santa Venera.

ARCHITECTURE

For a glimpse of the most personal side of England’s vision, one can visit his studio villa at The Gardens in St Julian’s, where the walls become sculptural forms and light dances across layered textures and geometric compositions, reflecting the intimacy of his creative world. The villa features two gardens: A Garden for Myriam (1982) and A Garden for Apollo (2007).

All of England’s hotel designs have been demolished, abandoned, or altered, apart from Aquasun Lido. Built in 1987 and now part of St George’s Park Hotel in Paceville, it stands out with its rich blues, bold forms and striking heights, combining volumes of Maltese stone with concrete to create surreal atmospheres.

Meanwhile, the crumbling Festaval Hotel in Mellieħa, on Marfa Ridge beneath the iconic Red Tower, has become a magnet for urban explorers and street artists.

Other notable projects by England include the striking Ta’ Monita Tourist Village, completed in 1971 in Marsascala, now partially destroyed, as well as the elegant geometric Joinwell Showroom in Sliema, which opened in 1964 and now houses the Next clothing store.

England also designed a series of (former) Mid-Med Bank buildings across Malta between the 1960s and 1980s. Only the Balzan building is still in use (as a Lombard Bank branch). All the others have been abandoned, with most scheduled for replacement.

From bustling harbours to tranquil gardens, his works offer moments of reflection, wonder and a deeper connection with the islands. For the traveller willing to wander, pause and look beyond the obvious, England’s Malta unfolds as a living story written in stone, light, shadows and colours. Following his trail is an invitation to encounter the islands’ very soul.

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GOZO

Words by

David Carabott

Gozo’s mighty Cittadella Follow the author on a personal challenge up to this majestic hilltop fortress and be rewarded not just by layers of history but also by natural beauty, bathed in a golden light, and endless views at the top.

On a late summer afternoon, I boarded the ferry to Gozo, accompanying a friend on a couple of errands. With a few hours free in the capital, Victoria, I found myself wondering whether I would finally make it to the Cittadella, also known as Il-Kastell.

I made it to the top just as the warm sun began to kiss the honeyed Maltese stone, while the Mediterranean Sea and sky shimmered in deep shades of blue. Each step felt like a gentle return to something timeless. For a few blissful moments, the world seemed to pause. The beauty of the fortress and its surroundings was almost magical, carrying me back through time.

GOZO’S MAJESTIC HEART The hilltop fortress dominates Gozo’s skyline, visible from every corner of the island. Only a few people live within its walls today, yet it resonates with the echoes of those who once sought shelter, worshipped and governed here.

As I wandered along the winding streets, I felt

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the weight of history surrounding me while taking in the natural beauty. This ancient walled city is also home to several endemic species of flora and fauna and is a designated Natura 2000 area.

A GLIMPSE THROUGH TIME The Cittadella has been occupied since prehistoric times, with evidence of settlements from the late Neolithic, Bronze Age and Phoenician period. Under Roman rule, Gozo was elevated to a privileged municipality, and the hilltop developed into a complex acropolis serving administrative, military and religious purposes. Over the centuries, the site evolved into a medieval fortress and later a stronghold, rebuilt by the Knights of St John between 1599 and 1603.

History here is tangible. The northern walls bear traces of Aragonese construction, while their southern counterparts flank baroque and military architecture from the Knights’ era. The fortress withstood corsair raids, Ottoman attacks and even Napoleon’s brief occupation. And in 1551, almost the entire population of Gozo was taken into slavery after an Ottoman siege.

GOZO

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GOZO

Every corner in the Cittadella tells a story.

HIDDEN TREASURES AND TIMELESS WONDERS Every corner of the Cittadella told me a story.

Coats of arms adorn façades, some weathered by centuries, others scarred by past conflicts.

I marvelled at Norman-style windows, carved arches and hidden shrines that invite discovery and reflection. Even the smallest details, from worn doorways to medieval stonework, spoke of resilience, creativity and continuity across generations.

The Cittadella complex also houses the old prison. During my school days, many years ago, I remember being fascinated by the story of Fra Jean Parisot de Valette, future Grand Master and founder of Valletta, who was imprisoned there for four months in 1538. I finally visited this prison.

Inside, the Visitors’ Centre brings history vividly to life. Housed in 19th-century water reservoirs, it offers interactive exhibits on the evolution of the Cittadella, its people and the local flora and fauna. Nearby, the Cathedral Museum, the Museum of Archaeology, the Folklore Museum and the Gozo Nature Museum reveal the island’s artistry, traditions and everyday life across the centuries.

I lingered in the Folklore Museum, captivated by the objects and imagining life in centuries past. In the Museum of Archaeology, I paused before the Majmuna Stone, its Arabic inscription echoing across time, and the quintessential Roman statue of the wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, a striking reminder of Gozo’s classical ties. While at the Nature Museum, a huge megalodon shark tooth transported me back millions of years, a tangible trace of the island’s ancient origins.

The narrow streets are full of surprises. Each step revealed details I might have missed at first glance, from carefully carved stonework to traces left by Napoleon’s troops.

THE PIAZZA AND THE VIEW The grand staircase leads to the main piazza, dominated by the Cathedral of the Assumption.

Inside it, don’t miss looking up at the trompe l’œil ceiling, a painted illusion. The fake dome

The Cathedral of the Assumption.

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GOZO

Stunning views from the top of the Cittadella.

is the work of Antonio Manuele Pippi from Messina, created in 1739. Instead of signing his name, he painted a small gecko or lizard, which can still be seen on one of the righthand windowpanes.

The ceiling was inspired by the famous Sant’Ignazio di Loyola church in Rome, where Jesuit artist Andrea Pozzo created a remarkable 3D dome illusion in the 17th century.

Another intriguing feature can be found outside, by the side of the church: ex-votos in the form of etched ships and boats from centuries past, left by those whose prayers for a miracle had been granted.

From this vantage point, I could see Gozo stretching below in a patchwork of fields, rooftops and distant hills, while the sea sparkled towards the horizon. The sun’s rays softened as it dipped, transforming the Maltese stone into warm honey tones.

WHY YOU MUST VISIT Every stone, every view, every detail tells a story. Unlike crowded tourist sites, here, one can pause, reflect and truly feel connected to the surroundings.

Even beyond history, the fortress delights the senses. The scent of wild herbs drifts through the streets, the breeze brushes one’s face and sunlight plays across the stone walls. Panoramic views of Gozo and the Mediterranean create a sense of calm and wonder; a moment to pause and soak in the beauty.

AN EXPERIENCE TO REMEMBER As I descended, I carried more than just photographs. I held a connection to Gozo’s past, an appreciation for its resilience, and a memory of beauty and tranquillity.

Climbing to the Cittadella was not merely an uphill struggle; it was an intrapersonal challenge. I immersed myself in centuries of history and, as the sun set, casting its glow over the sea and sky, I understood why this place has captured hearts for generations.

Inside the Cathedral Museum.

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GOZO

Words by

Shirley Jobson Shirley moved to Gozo a few years ago to enjoy its calmer pace with her English husband. After working as cabin crew for several years, she is now a freelance writer and proofreader who loves discovering Gozo’s little secrets.

Behind

the scenes Have you ever wondered what goes on behind the velvet drapes separating the audience from the performance unfolding in front of their eyes? Well, now you can find out through immersive backstage tours of Gozo’s iconic theatres.

Within the heart of Gozo’s capital city of Victoria, both the Teatru Astra and the Teatru Tal-Opra Aurora have been adding richness to the island’s cultural domain for decades. Their stages are, obviously, the central spot where all the magic happens.

But have you ever wondered what goes on behind the velvet drapes separating the audience from the performance unfolding in front of their eyes?

Within the hidden corners of these historic buildings, the run-up to every anticipated show brings its own exciting preparations.

The backstage crew assembles the setup of the stage, props and costumes are planned meticulously, and scripts and musical scores are scrutinised and recited over and over.

On the opening night, the actors don their costumes, put on their make-up, and rehearse their lines one final time before appearing onstage to transport theatregoers into various fantasy realms. Very few members of the public have been luck y enough to actually experience this unique – and usually unseen – perspective of the theatre world. But now, even you can venture behind the scenes of these two prestigious theatres!

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Rising from humble beginnings, the Astra was almost entirely built through voluntary effort and community fundraising. It was designed by noted mid-century artist, Frank Portelli, and remodelled after being ravaged by a fire in 2003. Ever since January 1968 – when it opened its doors and marked a turning point in local cultural life and artistic excellence – the theatre has hosted concerts, films, drama, ballet, musicals, and most famously, grand opera. Many of Europe’s most celebrated performers have been welcomed on its stage.

The newly organised guided tours at the Astra offer a comprehensive journey through the theatre’s history and inner workings, highlighting over half a century of cultural history, creativity and community spirit that shaped Malta’s cultural legacy. You will have the rare opportunity to visit the magnificent auditorium without an audience, admire the architectural details and explore the stage, backstage areas, dressing rooms and rehearsal spaces where decades of performances have come to life. Tours are offered on a regular basis but may be subject to changes and restrictions during production periods.

A highlight of the tour is an exclusive exhibition of original costumes, among which are those worn by world-famous tenor Joseph Calleja during his operatic debut at Teatru Astra in Verdi’s Macbeth in 1997. Other attire used by legendary singers – such as Aldo Protti, Nicola Rossi Lemeni, Daniela Dessì, Ghena Dimitrova,

GOZO

Astra Theatre.

Aurora Theatre.

Dimitra Theodossiou, Giuseppe Giacomini, Mark Rucker, Rumen Doikov and Pamela Kučenić – are also on display. The exhibits are changed periodically on rotation, and each costume tells a story of artistry and passion, representing the theatre’s enduring legacy as a stage for some of opera’s finest voices.

the backstage areas, the private guest room featuring beautiful frescoes from the late 19th century, and the musical archives belonging to the Leone Philharmonic Society. The tours are conducted in English and will help you uncover inspiring knowledge and explore areas you have never seen before.

A couple hundred metres down the road, the Aurora theatre was built in the 1970s, with Maltese artist, Chev. Emvin Cremona, behind the planning and designing of the building. The theatre is owned and operated by the esteemed Leone Philharmonic Society, which was founded 150 years ago.

Among its many memorable productions, the stage at the Aurora has showcased several renowned operas and plays, symphonic shows, concerts presenting various genres of music, and a multitude of other remarkable performances.

The Aurora also offers specialised guided tours to provide visitors with exclusive glimpses behind its stage curtains. Before major productions are presented onstage, you will be able to experience a fascinating behind-the-scenes journey deep within the theatre’s walls, walking you through its vibrant past and offering an intriguing insight into the historical opera house.

Apart from having the privilege of stepping onto the grand stage itself, you will also gain access to

Moreover, at the Aurora, you may participate in 45-minute lectures – again, presented ahead of scheduled performances – which deliver precious nuggets of information relevant to the upcoming opera. These interesting lectures sometimes introduce visitors to the specific complexities of protagonists from the central cast of characters. At other times, directors and set designers reveal the ways in which they create certain scenes, intricate costumes and onstage settings, so as to breathe life into the operatic display that will subsequently leave audiences enthralled.

If you want to go beyond merely being part of an audience, watching a play or an opera, then this is your chance to satisfy your curiosity, find out what happens behind the onstage spotlights and scenery, and learn more about the two distinguished opera houses on the island of Gozo.

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ACTION

Words by

Lea Hogg

How cricket has taken off

“There were times, when the sun shone, and he caught sight of white flannels on a green ground, and heard the ‘plonk’ of bat striking ball…” P. G. Wodehouse’s novel, Mike and Psmith.

Cricket may conjure images of English lawns and village greens, yet in Malta and Gozo, the sport has carved out a home of its own.

Introduced during the British colonial era, it has quietly evolved from a leisurely pastime into a thriving, multicultural pursuit, sustained by locals, expatriates and Commonwealth migrants beneath the Mediterranean sun.

At the heart of this revival is Dr Indika Pereira, a Sri Lankan doctor who arrived from Sweden in 2012. “When I came here, it was a struggle to find cricket,” he recalls. Back then, the game was mostly social, played in occasional matches

at Marsa Sports Club. But the informal setup didn’t satisfy his expectations. Having competed in Sri Lanka, he admits: “I honestly didn’t like cricket in Malta at first.”

Founded in 1902, Marsa Sports Club, once better known for tennis and polo, has since become Malta’s cricketing hub. Its grass outfield and matting wicket host both local and international matches, including the Valletta Cup, which attracts teams from across Europe. Players from Malta, India, Sri Lanka and the UK gather here, forming a uniquely diverse community. The ground is fullsized and maintained year-round thanks to Malta’s

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ACTION

favourable climate, with weekly Saturday matches and regular midweek fixtures throughout the season.

The Marsa Sports Club offers more than just the pitch. Its restaurant, bar and clubhouse facilities create a social setting that blends community with competition. Overlooked by the late-medieval Ta’ Ceppuna Chapel and framed by Mediterranean palms, the ground is a picturesque landmark. Limestone boundary walls, sight screens and a manicured outfield reflect the club’s commitment to maintaining international standards.

When Pereira took over as President of the Malta Cricket Association, there was only one active cricket club. “The only way we were going to make our mark on the international stage was by going to the World Cup qualifiers,” he says. To qualify, Malta needed eight senior teams playing in a national league for two consecutive years, a daunting requirement. “I said, well, we’ll do it. Nothing hurts by trying,” he recalls.

With the help of South African resident Lee Tuck and British player David Mark, Pereira launched a pilot league project.

The response was remarkable. Within a few years, Malta expanded from a single club to eight; today, there are 20 cricket clubs, men’s and women’s, and he’s waiting for applications from another two, plus potentially eight more in Gozo.

The sport’s growth mirrors Malta’s changing demographics. Migration from cricketloving nations, particularly in South Asia, has helped build a strong player base.

Local schools have joined in, introducing coaching sessions for children and nurturing early enthusiasm. Infrastructure, however, remains a challenge: Malta and Gozo still have only one full-sized cricket ground, and scheduling matches for both social and competitive teams demands careful coordination.

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Photo: Gavin Borg.

ACTION

Across the channel from Malta, Gozo is emerging as cricket’s next frontier.

Children there are increasingly taking up the game, encouraged by visiting coaches and community initiatives. The Malta Cricket Association has proposed building a dedicated cricket ground on the island, a project that, if approved, would mark a major milestone by giving Gozo’s players a permanent home.

Marsa Sports Club continues to host international tournaments beyond the local league. The venue has seen Four Nation tournaments featuring Hungary, the Czech Republic, Russia and Malta, along with annual European cricket festivals that draw visiting sides from across the continent.

Managed to international standards, the club provides not only a regulation wicket and outfield but also modern facilities for visitors and spectators, making it one of the Mediterranean’s bestappointed cricket venues.

Pereira’s leadership has been central to this transformation. “When I took over, we had only one cricket club. Today we have 20, with 21 more applications pending approval,” he says. His focus on structured programmes, youth development and community inclusion has turned a once informal pastime into an organised national sport.

He believes sport, like medicine, can heal.

“Cricket unites people,” he says. “It brings cultures together, encourages inclusion.

Sport harmonises a nation.”

In less than a decade, cricket in Malta has grown from a social gathering to an ambitious plan. With new clubs forming, international tournaments on the horizon, and Gozo poised to gain its own ground, the sport is no longer just a symbol of the colonial past but part of Malta’s evolving cultural landscape.

Photos: Diana Oros.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Photos: Courtesy of Heritage Malta. Dark Tales at Fort St Elmo.

Words by

Ramona Depares

WHEN HISTORY HAUNTS Halloween brings its own unique twist to many historical sites as they are cloaked in an eerier than usual atmosphere, complete with spooky moonlight stories to match the mood. Now is the time to shine that torchlight on some dark tourism.

It may be an imported tradition, but Malta’s ties to prehistoric temples and baroque and Gothic architecture make the island a natural home for Halloween rituals. The balmy autumn nights are an added bonus, of course, as we can indulge in a spot of outdoor ghost hunting without the inconvenience of freezing our toes off.

Halloween in Malta offers all the traditions you’re probably used to – such as trick-or-treating and the screening of horror films. But locally, the feast also brings its own unique twist on the festivities as Heritage Malta has seen to it that many historical sites take on an eerier hue than usual, with spooky moonlight stories to match.

The starting point for many this year is likely to be the Valletta underground tour, titled Beneath the Capital: Underground Valletta By Night. The splendour of the overground city is matched by the mysterious parallel world that forms a labyrinth of discoveries, with the entrance point being right opposite the Law Courts.

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suggests

For those who want to raise the stakes

.....

If you’re a committed spook-chaser, you may fancy taking the thrills a notch higher with a sleep over on 31st October – if you dare. In Rabat, St Paul’s Catacombs will be open for a one-off camping event, hosting participants over the age of 12. You can pitch your tent in the grounds leading to the catacombs at 6pm, right at dusk, before meeting up with the rest of the group at 7pm for a detailed briefing about the deliciously spooky activities that will keep you wondering what lies beneath.

The night kicks off with the all-important Lemuria ritual, a recreation of an ancient Roman rite that is said to chase restless spirits away. At 8pm, a screening of Heritage Malta’s Malta Oskura – Rabat and Mdina will uncover the darker side of local history and get you ready for the main event at 8.30pm – a guided night tour of the catacombs, where you get to experience hidden areas usually closed to the public.

Like all good Halloween nights, this one ends with a moonlight picnic and ghost stories under the stars, a dim torch your only light. You can bring your own food or order a delivery. Once the sun rises, you will be served a continental breakfast – if you survive the ghost-laden events of the night, of course.

Those of you who are staying in Gozo may be suffering some FOMO right about now. Happily, you can still enjoy the ultimate Halloween sleepover, in this case at the Gozo Old Prison. This event is open to 18+ guests only: and be aware that you’ll be sleeping in a confined space shared with strangers. How about that for something scarier than ghosts?

The fun starts at 8.30pm with a guided tour of the Old Prison as you let the sinister history and stories of confinement soak through you.

As the night gets darker, there will be a Clue Quest by torchlight around the Citadel, challenging you to solve mysteries in the darkened streets and hidden corners. Until finally, the real test begins – will you manage to drop off, locked within the prison walls that have seen so much suffering? Come sunrise, you’ll be able to celebrate your release from prison in that classic way – with food.

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Blink and you’ll miss it, as the tiny manhole takes you down the winding staircase right into the belly of the city. You will barely believe that, only a few minutes before, you were listening to cheerful live music and perhaps sipping a spritz, as the vibe in this underground city is diametrically opposite.

Try not to look over your shoulder as you listen to the drip-drip-dripping of the cisterns, the water glistening on centuries-old tree roots.

Tours in English are held at 7pm and 9pm on November 1, right when the darkness has settled in.

You may wish to follow this up the next day, on November 2, with a Dark Tales of Fort St Elmo experience. Valletta’s famed fortress has seen its fair share of bloodshed during the Great Siege of 1565, making it fertile ground for a haunting or two. Your guide will also revisit some other equally disturbing historical sagas, including the Slaves’ Revolt of 1749, to the Rising of the Priests in 1775, the deadly bombardments of World War II and the shocking Egyptair hijack of 1985. This one isn’t for the squeamish and is only recommended for audiences aged 16 and over.

Truth is, St Elmo is spooky enough without the need for extras – add some of the most bloodthirsty events in our island’s history, and don’t blame us if you spend a sleepless night.

This one kicks off at 8pm and lasts just under two hours.

If you prefer to do your own thing without the benefit of a tour, there are plenty of dark corners to investigate on your lonesome or, perhaps more wisely, with a friend or three.

By day, the Buskett Woodlands is one of the prettiest, greenest areas on the island; by night, it takes on a completely different vibe with Verdala Palace rising ominously in the background.

Night hike anyone? Just make sure you give the Blue Lady a wide berth – stories as to why she haunts the area differ, but you don’t really want to stick around to figure out the truth.

The gorgeous Manoel Theatre, in the capital, is also said to be home to various spirits – you can catch a guided tour to tempt your fate.

But perhaps the best solo expedition you could undertake would be around the Three Cities, with their quiet streets and old palazzos, including the Inquisitor’s Palace, in Birgu, and its association with dark rituals, torture devices, prison cells and numerous stories of hauntings.

But there are also dozens of charming restaurants and wine bars to help you forget the darkness of the night.

ENTERTAINMENT

Castra ad Catacumbas at St Paul's Catacombs.

A sleepover at the Gozo Old Prisons.

Dark Tales at Fort St Elmo.

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The Little Things

.....

Always be prepared – never has the timehonoured Scouts’ motto been so apt. Here are my personal hacks to make sure that no evil spirits get to steal your zen.

It’s all about comfortable

footwear: Many historical sites have uneven flooring, and at night the dew makes everything slippery, so this is not the time for your fancy heels. Wear a pair of tried and trusted trainers that you know will keep you grounded and won’t lead to the fun being ruined by blisters.

The nights can be chilly: autumn in Malta is very mild and you’re quite likely to be running around in short sleeves during the day.

Don’t be fooled as at nighttime the temperature drops.

Going deep underground means that the air will be even cooler, and older buildings like Gozo’s prisons tend to hold humidity, so dress appropriately.

If you opt for either of the sleepovers, make sure you have all equipment needed to be comfortable. You’ll need to take a tent, sleeping bags, water, snacks and a torchlight to scare those demons away.

All the above events are organised by Heritage Malta, which is the agency in charge of all historical sites in Malta. You can book tickets directly from the official site.

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EXPERIENCE EXPERIENCE WHERE IT ALL STARTED

WHERE

IT ALL

STARTED

VISIT CISK THE HOME OF

The Brewhouse, Mdina Road, Birkirkara +356 2779 6700

RETAIL

Words by

The Point

Experience Black Friday at The Point

A milestone year. An unmissable weekend.

The Point Shopping Mall celebrates 15 years of serving Malta as a premium shopping destination, and we’re more excited than ever to mark that milestone during one of retail’s biggest moments: Black Friday 2025 on 28th November.

Fifteen years on, The Point remains Malta’s retail jewel, evolving, growing, and setting new standards in how people shop, dine and connect.

Over the past year, The Point has welcomed a wave of exciting new brands and flagship concepts, enriching our retail mix and refreshing the visitor experience. Our mall now exceeds 150 brands, with full occupancy reaffirming confidence from our retail partners.

Complementing this growth, earlier in 2025 we completed a significant interior refurbishment.

The atrium is now bathed in warm textures, elegant lighting and digital screens gracefully integrated into the balustrades. These updates not only elevate aesthetics, but reinforce The Point’s commitment to delivering a modern, immersive environment for our guests. Fifteen years and still going strong.

But 2025 is not simply a year of celebration, it’s also a year for performance. The Point has long

been at the forefront of major retail trends in Malta, and was among the first to embrace the Black Friday concept locally – helping shape it into the shopping phenomenon it is today. Since those early events, Black Friday has become a key date in our calendar, drawing thousands of eager shoppers and delivering strong results year after year.

At The Point, our expectation for Black Friday 2025 is resolute optimism. With our refreshed ambiance, expanded brand portfolio and a highly trafficked location in Tigné Point, we anticipate a strong turnout and meaningful conversion. We’re working closely with retailers to coordinate compelling discount strategies, extended hours and immersive promotions to engage shoppers all weekend long.

To our community of shoppers, tenants and partners, we thank you for 15 years of trust, loyalty and shared growth. As we step into this Black Friday season, we invite everyone to experience The Point, not just as a mall, but as a celebration of how retail can elevate daily life.

Our vision remains rooted in delivering exceptional retail, enriching experiences, and creating a space that reflects the evolving needs of our community. Whether you're joining us for the thrill of Black Friday, a coffee with friends, or your next wardrobe refresh, we can’t wait to welcome you through our doors. Here’s to many more years and many more moments made under our roof.

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PETS

Words by

Ruth Zammit DeBono Ruth is a passionate traveller, artist and devoted dog mum, who finds joy in storytelling and discovering the world always with her pet by her side.

A Christmas

trip to Vienna with your dog Bundle up, book that flight for two, and get ready to experience the Austrian capital’s charm – pawprints in the snow included. Whether you’re drawn by the Christmas markets, the grandeur of imperial palaces, or the romance of snow-dusted streets, Vienna offers the perfect blend of culture, atmosphere and pet-friendly hospitality.

There’s something undeniably magical about Vienna in December. The Austrian capital transforms into a winter wonderland, with the aroma of roasted chestnuts filling the air, fairy lights strung across baroque streets, and Christmas markets that feel like they belong in the pages of a fairy tale.

For travellers from Malta, reaching this festive city is made wonderfully convenient with direct flights to Vienna. And for those of us who never go anywhere without our fourlegged companions, here’s the best part: Vienna is as delightful for humans as it is one of the most pet-friendly capital cities in Europe.

Experiencing the city with a small dog is a new way of viewing the metropolis. Imagine wandering along snowdusted streets, stopping for a mug of mulled wine at a market stall as your dog absorbs the sounds and smells of the season. Unlike some locations, where dogs are considered an inconvenience, in Vienna they are welcomed warmly in most public spaces, restaurants and hotels. With some planning, you and your furry friend can enjoy a holiday filled with festive cheer, history and comfort.

ARRIVING IN VIENNA The Malta to Vienna flight is a comfortable one, and with KM Malta Airlines’ PETC (Pet in Cabin) service, your dog can accompany you in the cabin as long as it meets the criteria.

Public transport upon arrival is extremely efficient and generally dog-friendly. Dogs are allowed on buses, trams and the metro, usually as long as they are leashed and muzzled. For smaller dogs travelling in carriers, the rules

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are even less stringent. This makes visiting Vienna with your dog not only possible but also easy.

CHRISTMAS MARKETS WITH A TAIL-WAGGING TWIST Vienna’s Christmas markets are famous worldwide, drawing tourists from all over the globe. From late November through December, the city squares are filled with wooden stalls selling handmade crafts, Christmas decorations and rich seasonal treats. The most famous and largest market is situated in front of the grand Rathaus (City Hall), where fairy lights twinkle against the neo-Gothic façade, and the scent of cinnamon and spice lingers in the crisp winter air.

For dogs, the markets are a playground for the senses – just watch out for the crowds. Weekdays and early mornings are usually quieter, which makes it more convenient for your pup to walk alongside you. Some stalls also carry dog-friendly treats and accessories, so your companion won’t feel left out. Keep them on a short leash and steer clear of hot drinks and food stalls with jostling crowds though.

EXPLORING VIENNA’S DOG-FRIENDLY LANDMARKS Vienna isn’t just about Christmas markets. The city offers a rich tapestry of cultural landmarks and open spaces that are accessible with your dog.

The Ringstrasse: This famous boulevard encircles the old city and is perfect for a long walk with your dog.

Along the way, you’ll pass impressive buildings like the Opera House, the Austrian Parliament and the grand Hofburg Palace.

????????

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5 essential KM Malta Airlines rules for travelling with your dog

.....

PETC (Pet in Cabin) is for small dogs or cats only – for the comfort of both pets and passengers.

Your pet, together with its carrier, must not exceed 10kg in total weight – a rule designed for safe, hassle-free travel.

Ruth Zammit DeBono and Roy.

Schönbrunn Palace Gardens: Though the palace itself is for human guests only, the sprawling gardens are open for all to enjoy. Picture strolling through baroque-designed landscapes as your dog sniffs contentedly along the paths under the bare winter trees.

Vienna Woods: For a break from the festive bustle, the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods) provide countless trails where your dog can run, roam and enjoy the great outdoors just a short distance from the city centre.

Cafés and Restaurants: A highlight of touring Vienna with a dog is how welcome they are in cafés. Warm up with a Viennese coffee or hot chocolate after your chilly walks, while your dog relaxes at your feet – a true taste of gemütlichkeit (cosy comfort).

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR WINTER TRAVEL WITH DOGS Travelling with your dog in winter requires some extra preparation.

Vienna can get cold, with temperatures often dropping below freezing in December. Small dogs, especially those with finer coats, benefit from a warm jacket or jumper. Paw protection is also useful, as pavements may be salted or icy. A collapsible water bowl, a travel blanket and familiar snacks will make your dog more comfortable when you’re on the move.

Keep your schedule flexible, with regular stops where your dog can get warm and rest inside. Many hotels in Vienna offer dog-friendly accommodation, with some even providing little beds or welcome treats for their canine guests.

WHY VIENNA MAKES A PERFECT CHRISTMAS ESCAPE Travelling with a dog changes the rhythm of your holiday – and in a city like Vienna, that’s a gift in itself. Instead of rushing from museum to museum, you’ll find yourself strolling slower, soaking in details, pausing at cosy cafés and enjoying the sparkle of Christmas lights from a dog-friendly perspective. For those of us who consider our dogs family, experiencing the joy of Christmas together makes the memories even more special.

And with direct flights from Malta, it’s closer than you think. Whether you’re drawn by the Christmas markets, the grandeur of imperial palaces, or the romance of snow-dusted streets, Vienna offers the perfect blend of culture, atmosphere and pet-friendly hospitality.

The container must meet safety standards – it should be durable, ventilated and leak-proof, with enough space for your pet to turn around.

The carrier must fit under the seat in front of you and remain stowed throughout the flight – your pet must remain inside for the duration of the flight.

Pet strollers can be checked in free if you’ve paid for PETC – onward travel is easier upon arrival at your destination.

A CHRISTMAS TO REMEMBER Vienna in December is the kind of destination that remains with you long after you return home. It’s not just the grand architecture, the festive atmosphere, or the sparkling lights – it’s also the feeling of sharing it all with your dog by your side. With a little planning in advance and the ease of being able to travel there direct from Malta, your Christmas break can be every bit as magical for your pup as it is for you.

So, bundle up, book that flight, and get ready to experience Vienna’s Christmas charm – pawprints in the snow included.

Dreaming of twinkling lights, mulled wine and a pup by your side in Vienna? Reach out on Instagram anytime – Roy and I love helping fellow travellers plan their most magical journeys. @PupsPaintAndProsecco

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TRENDS

Words by

Coryse Borg Coryse is a broadcaster, actress and voiceover artiste. She is passionate about writing, travelling and spending time with her loved ones; discovering new places and sampling new food in as many countries as possible.

Travel green: a guide to journeying kindly From choosing greener routes to packing lighter and supporting local communities, sustainable travel is good for the planet, and makes your adventures richer, more meaningful and more rewarding.

English author and television presenter Simon Reeve once said: “Responsible travel is not only better for our world; it’s also more interesting and memorable.

Responsible tourism is the future of travel.”

The way we travel shapes the places we visit. Each flight, road trip, or holiday choice leaves some kind of environmental footprint… but it also offers the chance to make a positive difference.

Sustainable travel means making conscious choices that minimise harm to the environment, support local cultures and enrich your overall experience. You can think of it as travelling in a way that future generations will thank you for.

Of course, flying will always be part of long-distance travel, but there are ways to make your journeys more efficient, such as choosing airlines that make a commitment to sustainability in one way or another.

For example, KM Malta Airlines has partnered with OpenAirlines to strengthen its commitment to sustainability by adopting the SkyBreathe® Fuel Efficiency platform. This advanced system uses big data, AI, and machine learning to analyse flight information and help pilots, engineers and operations teams reduce fuel use, cut CO₂ emissions and improve efficiency.

Another thing you can do is to choose direct flights whenever possible. Take-offs and landings relatively

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use the most fuel, so non-stop routes can significantly cut emissions. In this way, you will reduce your carbon footprint and discover hidden gems tourists often miss.

Awareness is the first step towards improvement. To understand your own impact, online tools such as the ICAO Carbon Emissions Calculator or the Sustainable Travel Footprint Calculator can give you a clear picture of the CO₂ created by your trip.

And once you’ve arrived at your destination, how you explore makes all the difference too: When possible, swap hired cars for trains, buses, or even bikes. If driving is unavoidable, as it sometimes is, look for hybrid or electric options.

Instead of high-impact activities that stress the environment, try hiking and cycling along marked trails, kayaking, or paddleboarding, wildlife watching (with respect and distance), and cultural experiences led by local guides, who offer deeper insights while keeping traditions alive.

Hotels and other types of accommodation are also stepping up their sustainability game, and you can help by choosing wisely. Look for trusted sustainability certifications for the tourism industry such as Green Key, LEED, EarthCheck, or Travelife, which verify that a property is genuinely reducing its impact rather than simply ‘greenwashing’.

Practical ways you can be eco-friendly in hotels include reusing towels and bed linen, rather than requesting daily changes, and turning off lights, heating and electronics when leaving the room, as well as refusing to use mini toiletries and opting for your own reusable alternatives.

Supporting locally owned or community-run hotels, where profits flow back into the region, is also a great idea.

Sustainable travel is also about connecting with landscapes, people and traditions.

When shopping, choose locally made crafts or souvenirs instead of mass-produced imports. This way, your money stays within the community, empowering artisans and preserving cultural traditions.

One of the easiest – and tastiest – ways to travel sustainably is through your stomach! Choosing locally grown food reduces transport emissions and supports community livelihoods. Seek out neighbourhood cafés, street food stalls and family-run eateries.

Another way you can help is by doing your best to pack lighter. Every extra kilo on board means more fuel burned, so trimming down your suitcase helps both you and the planet.

Choose versatile, quick-dry clothing that can be mixed and matched, and bring along ecoconscious travel gear such as a reusable water bottle or bamboo toothbrush.

And finally, share your eco-friendly practices with friends, family and fellow travellers, support companies with strong sustainability commitments, and encourage destinations to continue improving. Every conscious decision adds up, and collectively we can make travel a force for good.

With every refillable bottle, every direct flight, and every bit of money spent locally, you’re helping ensure the world stays as vibrant and diverse tomorrow as it is today.

A GUIDE TO SMART SUSTAINABLE PACKING Stick to one lightweight carry-on when possible – it reduces stress and fuel consumption.

Pack multi-use clothing (for example, a scarf that doubles as a shawl or sarong).

Bring biodegradable laundry soap sheets with you instead of full bottles.

Choose luggage made from recycled materials.

Carry reusables: water bottle, coffee cup, utensils and shopping bag.

Swap liquid toiletries for solid shampoo bars, toothpaste tablets and bamboo toothbrushes.

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Scan for more information.

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The Cittadella in Gozo.

Mdina.

Birgu.

St John's Co-Cathedral.

Manoel Theatre.

HISTORIC SITES:

MALTA’S ART, ARCHITECTURE & CULTURAL CITIES Malta before the Knights was already a treasure trove.

This living museum is waiting to be explored, and you never know what gripping story you'll hear next.

Malta has been a cultural hub since prehistoric times, with art embellishing walls as reverent relics. Contrary to popular belief, the island before the Knights was not a backwater, but already a treasure trove full of heritage and story.

However, it is true that, during their reign from 1530 to 1798, the influence of the Knights Hospitaller gave Malta its rich relevance; and this can be seen strongly in Valletta.

Culture is one of the most sought-after forms of entertainment when discovering the capital city; from 16th-century cathedrals to modern-day galleries, the Malta art scene is thriving.

VALLETTA Historic sites in Malta are numerous, and Valletta’s recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage City makes for a great urban destination to visit or even call home during your stay. Envisioned by the Knights of St John under Grand Master Jean de Valette’s rule, it was designed as a fortress after the victorious Great Siege of 1565. The city itself is a maze of baroque architecture that celebrates grand halls, high ceilings, embellished theatres and breezy open spaces. Valletta is a thriving modern city thanks to the noble visionaries of Malta’s history. Some of its most prized architectural wonders that are still accessible today include: Manoel Theatre: Envisioned by Grand Master António Manoel de Vilhena, this gem of a theatre is the third oldest functioning theatre in Europe and is embellished with gold as seen on its iconic ceiling. Visit for a guided tour, or book a show in the city.

Art & Culture in Mdina: Mdina transforms at twilight into a romantic stage that encourages moonlit walks and openair dining. One can also discover the National Museum of Natural History, the panoramic bastion walls and the iconic Misraħ il-Kunsill, where Malta’s news was first transmitted verbally to a collecting crowd.

The Moorish architecture gives Mdina its eerie yet captivating energy. Wander through the streets further back in history to Villegaignon Street, where the oldest building of Palazzo Santa Sofia can be found, dating back to 1233. Discover historic homes such as Palazzo Falson, Casa Gourgion and other magnificent architectural wonders. Step into St Paul’s Cathedral for a collection of curiosities. From lush tapestry and Preti’s Apparition of St Paul, to the Bishop’s Window and random spyholes found in doors, this cathedral is full of surprises.

Birgu’s Maritime Wonders: Malta’s maritime past is prevalent in the old city of Birgu, with a fully dedicated Maritime Museum housed in the former Royal Naval Bakery that used to supply bread and provisions to the Royal Navy's Mediterranean Fleet during Europe’s wars. The Malta Maritime Museum is the largest on the island, but it's not your only stop in terms of historic sites. Malta’s combat history can also be noted by visiting the Malta War Museum, or the Inquisitor’s Palace for more knightly relics.

St John’s Co-Cathedral: Valletta’s culture can begin and end with St John’s Co-Cathedral. From the coveted Caravaggio masterpieces to the angelic Mattia Preti works hidden in the langue chapels, finding the work of art that most resonates with you will be a hard challenge.

THE CITADEL IN GOZO Crowning Victoria with its limestone pastels, the Citadel is a fortified city that dates back to the Neolithic and Bronze Age. As the beating heart of Gozo’s military and religious life, the Cittadella served as a Roman Acropolis, a municipal entirely separate from Malta. Throughout history, Gozo went through Phoenician, Aragonese and Hospitaller rule, where the island experienced rich architectural changes as did Valletta, Mdina and Birgu in Malta.

MDINA & BIRGU Two particular areas that received special treatment from the Knights in terms of architectural refinement were Malta’s Silent City, Mdina, and the Three Cities of Cottonera, namely Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (Isla) and Cospicua (Bormla).

Discovering something new when journeying through the streets of Malta and Gozo is always thrilling, but sometimes, looking back at its history and understanding the old gives everything a new perspective. Malta is a living museum that is waiting to be explored. You never know what gripping story you’ll hear next.

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Spicy McCrispy®

© 2025 McDonald’s Corporation.

All pictures shown are for illustration purposes only. Actual products may vary.

MADE IN MALTA

Words by

Thomas Camilleri

Turning up the heat Born from a lockdown passion project, a niche Maltese brand with big, bold flavours is redefining the island’s spice one fiery jar at a time. From humble kitchen experiments to award-winning chutneys, this is a story of taste, talent and a touch of hot.

I often wonder about how future generations might look back upon the COVID-19 pandemic. Will it pale in comparison to all the other pandemics that have ravaged the world? Will it stand out as the first global plague that was tackled with a greater understanding of science? Or might it be seen as somewhat of a turning point?

For many of us, myself included, it meant a shift to working from home, which allowed me to develop my extra-curricular passions and eventually focus entirely on these. People moved to the countryside and the ability to work remotely is now firmly entrenched in many industries. This period saw the advent of the COVID Project. We all had one! Whether finally getting round to those photo albums or learning a new skill, life changed, and priorities were reevaluated.

Malcolm Ricci was no stranger to expanding his boundaries at this time. His studies thus far had included agriculture, English literature and languages, martial arts, photography, motion design and marketing at various points in his life. A restless mind, coupled with restless tastebuds, he was always up for trying something new, and this period proved to be fertile ground.

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MADE IN MALTA

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MADE IN MALTA

As luck would have it, his wife Michèle turned out to be as culinarily adventurous as he is and this led to lots of fun experimenting with all manner of chutneys and chillies, though strictly for fun.

It wasn’t until the first lockdown hit that the two of them started delving deeper into researching this field, egged on by friends and family who couldn’t get enough of their kitchen creations. Luckily for all of us, they eventually took the plunge and decided to start up as a business – the Filfla Chilli Co. Inspired by our very own islet of Filfla, the name was an easy one to settle on. Named by the Arabs when they ruled Malta in the Middle Ages, it is derived from the Arabic word felfel, meaning pepper.

Interestingly, for a man who produces chillies, Malcolm is no great fan of spiciness. “More often than not, the spice level is a little too much for my taste, so I wanted to create my own version of harissa, and this eventually led to the first iteration of Filfli.”

After developing a few recipes, he settled on a formula where each product should be a celebration of Maltese cuisine as well as an evolution of the flavours we know so well by pushing the boundaries of common pairings and combinations.

His starting point is always a single ingredient, subtly layering others to create exciting departures from our traditional favourites. Based on the blend he’s going for, Malcolm researches how best to treat the chilli peppers – smoked, grilled, fresh, dry? Next comes balance and texture, as well as the overall gamut of flavours and colour, ensuring the final product is wellrounded and polished.

It’s always interesting to see who likes what, and Malcolm’s favourite isn’t what most go for. “The crowd's overall preference would definitely be Filfli, which is

our Maltese Chilli Chutney, with a base of kunserva (a traditional paste made by reducing tomatoes to a thick concentrate), sun-dried tomatoes, carob syrup and red chilli peppers. Filfli was the first chutney we launched and perfected, and it is also the most 'Maltese' of the lot, making it an instant crowd favourite, especially with tourists.”

And his own choice? It’s got to be the Xemxi orange and habanero jam: “It goes well with all my favourites – flame-grilled steak, pork ribs or belly, duck, soft cheeses, as well as chocolate brownies and gin and tonic.”

One thing that is most missed by those Maltese who leave the island is our flavours, and this is evidenced by the fact that even a young company like Filfla Chilli is already exporting its products as far as Australia!

The thrill of success can also be tasted in the awards the Filfla Chilli Co. is proud to have won. Besides a slew of local plaudits, they also walked away with Gold and Bronze in the European Hot Sauce Awards.

“At the moment, we’re busy researching and developing the next few chutneys that we are planning on launching over the coming couple of years,” Malcolm says when asked about what’s in the pipeline. He also coyly talks about some collaborations that are ones to watch out for, but stops short of revealing any juicy details: “Nothing we can reveal for now!”

Well, I’m already spoilt for choice with the spread I’m about to tuck into, and I look forward to seeing where Malcolm and Michèle’s kitchen adventures take us next.

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TIME FOR A NEW ADVENTURE

LAND YOUR MOMENT

FOOD

Words by

Passaġġi

Vibrant.

Evolving.

Heartfelt.

Cooking is more than a skill; it’s an act of care for Chef Godfrey Zammit from La Nostra Padrona in Marsaxlokk. No tricks, no unnecessary frills; he just wants honest food that speaks of passion and place. Simple, generous, soulful cooking – that’s what Maltese food is all about.

WHAT OR WHO SPARKED YOUR PASSION FOR COOKING – AND WHO TAUGHT YOU THE MOST? It all began in my nanna’s kitchen in Żurrieq.

She used to make ħobż biż-żejt with tomatoes straight from the garden, and the smell alone could make anyone fall in love with food. She was my first teacher – not through recipes, but through intuition and love. She taught me that cooking is more than a skill; it’s an act of care.

YOUR ALL-TIME FAVOURITE INGREDIENT AND HOW YOU USE IT BEST? Without a doubt extra virgin olive oil! It’s the heartbeat of Mediterranean cuisine. I drizzle it over grilled octopus, roasted vegetables, ġbejniet, even desserts sometimes. To me, it’s liquid gold – simple, pure and full of soul.

YOUR GO-TO MEAL TO WIN OVER FAMILY AND FRIENDS? Fenkata, the traditional Maltese rabbit stew. I cook it slowly with red wine, bay leaves, garlic and plenty of love. Serve it with crusty Maltese bread, and you’ve got a table full of laughter and good memories.

YOUR FAVOURITE COMFORT FOOD? Ross il-forn – baked rice. It’s humble, hearty and

feels like a warm hug after a long day, especially when the top gets that perfect crispy crust.

WHEN YOU EAT OUT, WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR? Authenticity. I want to taste the chef’s story in every bite. No tricks, no unnecessary frills; just honest food that speaks of passion and place.

DO YOU PASS ON DESSERT? Never! Life’s too short to skip dessert. Give me imqaret with vanilla ice cream, or a spoonful of ħelwa tat-Tork, and I’m a happy man.

WHAT WOULD YOU NEVER SAY NO TO (FOODWISE)?

Fresh seafood, always. A grilled lampuka, a simple octopus salad, or spaghetti with clams – if it comes from the sea that morning, I’m in.

COMPLICATED HAUTE CUISINE, OR ALLA BUONA HOME COOKING? Alla buona, every time. Simple, generous, soulful cooking – that’s what Maltese food is all about. You don’t need tweezers to make something beautiful; you need heart.

HEALTHY OR SINFUL, DECADENT AND RICH? Balance, yes – but let’s be honest, a bit of indulgence makes life worth living. A drizzle of butter or a slice of cheese never hurt anyone.

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THE IDEAL CUSTOMER PROFILE… Someone who eats with curiosity. I love when guests ask questions – about the olive oil, the farmer, the fish. It means they care, and that’s the kind of diner every chef dreams of.

WHO IN THE WORLD WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO COOK FOR, AND WHY? Massimo Bottura. He’s a master of turning tradition into art. I’d love to share Maltese flavours with him – see how he interprets our humble ingredients in his creative way.

A CULINARY SECRET YOU CAN SHARE? Cook with all your senses. Smell, taste, listen. The kitchen talks to you. You just need to pay attention.

Add salt early, not at the end – it builds flavour as you go.

WHAT DO YOU SAY TO SOMEONE WITH NO CONFIDENCE IN THE KITCHEN? Start with what you love to eat. Keep it simple.

Even the best chefs burned their first dish – the trick is not to give up. Taste everything, learn from it, and have fun.

WHAT INSPIRES YOU WHEN CREATING DISHES? The seasons and the people behind the ingredients.

The fisherman at Marsaxlokk, the farmer at Ta’ Qali, the baker down the road – they’re my daily inspiration. Good food starts with good people.

THE CUISINE THAT HAS INFLUENCED YOU THE MOST? Italian and North African. Malta sits right between them, so our cuisine naturally blends both the warmth of the Mediterranean and a hint of spice from across the sea.

WHERE WOULD YOU TRAVEL TO EAT, AGAIN AND AGAIN? Sicily. It’s close, yet every visit feels like a culinary adventure. The flavours are familiar, the passion is shared; it’s like visiting a cousin who cooks just as well.

YOUR IDEA OF QUINTESSENTIALLY MALTESE FOOD? Rabbit stew, ħobż biż-żejt, kapunata, lampuki pie, and bigilla. Simple ingredients turned into something deeply satisfying – that’s the Maltese way.

YOUR OWN TAKE ON A LOCAL DISH? I make a modern lampuki pie: flaky pastry filled with spiced fish, capers and caramelised onions. It’s a nod to tradition with a little chef’s twist.

THREE WORDS TO DESCRIBE THE MALTESE RESTAURANT SCENE? Vibrant. Evolving. Heartfelt.

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Chef Godfrey Zammit from La Nostra Padrona.

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Mediterranean seafood crudo Try your hand at Chef Godfrey Zammit’s light and elegant crudo. It highlights the purity of Mediterranean seafood – thin slices of local fish and shellfish dressed in a bright, citrusforward vinaigrette. Inspired by coastal simplicity, it balances freshness and texture with a subtle touch of Asian flavour.

SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS • Selection of the freshest local fish and shellfish (such as mahi-mahi, snapper, prawns, clams and calamari) • Extra virgin olive oil • Lemon juice and zest • A hint of soy and rice vinegar • Fresh ginger and red chilli • Micro herbs and toasted sesame seeds, to garnish • Flaky sea salt and freshly ground pepper

METHOD Prepare the seafood: Use only the freshest catch. Slice thinly and arrange elegantly on chilled plates.

Make the dressing: Whisk together olive oil, citrus and subtle Asian notes to create a bright, aromatic balance.

Adjust to taste – it should enhance, not overpower.

Assemble the crudo: Season lightly, drizzle with the dressing, and finish with herbs, sesame and delicate citrus touches.

Serve immediately: Present cold and glistening – a dish that captures the sea at its most refined.

TA’ MARIJA – YOUR GASTRO MALTESE KITCHEN Constitution Street, Mosta Established in 1964, Ta’ Marija is one of Malta’s most historically rich restaurants.

Enjoy its Folklore Dinner shows on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays for some Maltese liveliness. (Transport can be arranged.) The gastro menu is bursting with creativity and local traditions, stamped with Ta’ Marija’s signature flavours. From appetizers and platters to traditional homemade ravioli, Ta' Marija brings Maltese favourites to the table in a unique way. Mains include a popular rabbit selection, fish and shellfish in season, local meats and the famous Whisper chargrilled steaks. (+356) 2143 4444 tamarija.com TamarijaRestaurantMostaMalta

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MUŻA RESTAURANT Merchants Street, Valletta If you're looking for an extraordinary dining experience in the capital city, book a table at MUŻA Restaurant. Situated in the picturesque courtyard of an old auberge, MUŻA provides a cosy, laidback ambiance, perfect for a romantic dinner, or a night out with friends. The menu is bursting with fresh, local ingredients, and the knowledgeable staff can help you select the perfect wine to complement your meal. (+356) 7979 0900 MUZARestaurantValletta

muzarestaurant

OSTRICA 66, Church Street, St Paul’s Bay Discover Ostrica at Gillieru, where tradition meets innovation on the shores of St Paul’s Bay. Located within the iconic Gillieru Harbour Hotel, a landmark with over a century of history, it celebrates the finest local ingredients from fresh fish to dry-aged meats, prepared with a modern twist. Its talented chefs craft each dish with care, offering an unforgettable dining experience.

With stunning views of the bay and a tranquil atmosphere, Ostrica invites you to indulge in Malta’s rich culinary heritage. (+356) 7902 2371 ostrica.mt ostrica

ostrica

BOTTEGIN PALAZZO XARA Triq San Pawl, Rabat Tucked away in the heart of Rabat, just a short stroll from the historic Mdina, Bottegin Palazzo Xara offers an authentic Maltese dining experience. Situated within a local band club, the cosy bistro provides a welcoming atmosphere, while the peaceful Mediterranean Courtyard offers a tranquil setting for al fresco dining. The extensive menu features everything from hearty breakfasts to pizzas, pastas, grills and traditional local dishes. With soft jazz music and a vibrant, social atmosphere, it's the perfect place to dine like a local. (+356) 7945 4538 bottegin.com.mt

botteginpalazzoxara

botteginpalazzoxara

GROTTO TAVERN Misraħ Ii-Paroċċa, Rabat The Michelin-recommended Grotto Tavern restaurant offers a unique and unforgettable dining experience in the heart of Rabat. Nestled in a cave, the ambience is enchanting and romantic. Grotto Tavern’s chefs expertly craft tasting menus that showcase their passion for local and seasonal ingredients. Guests can sample innovative dishes by indulging in its fiveor seven-course experience. A visit to Grotto Tavern is a must for those seeking fine dining with a twist. (+356) 7945 3258 grottotavern.net

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grottotavernrestaurant

thegrottotavern

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ANDREW’S BAR St George’s Bay, St Julian’s Andrew's Bar is a freshly re-opened venue where fun is not optional, good food is compulsory, and building great memories is essential. Steeped in legacy, this is, in fact, Malta's oldest bar! The place is a go-to, and you're simply going to love indulging in the extensive menu, with a great local cuisine focus, serving traditional Maltese and modern dishes, such as pizza or pasta. Ideal for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it is also perfect for a quiet drink or two. (+356) 2138 8031 info@andrewsbar.com

TA' KOLINA 151, Tower Road, Sliema Ta’ Kolina is a quaint, family-run restaurant on Tower Road (one of Sliema’s most popular spots). Open since 1974, it is a typical Maltese restaurant with a traditional Maltese interior and décor. A set menu comprising of traditional Maltese food offers a choice of starter, main dish, dessert and coffee for €27 per person. There is also a vibrant à la carte menu and daily display of fresh local fish. Dining here is a true Maltese experience for a reasonable price. Ta' Kolina is open for both lunch and dinner from 12 to 10.30pm. (+356) 2133 5106 www.takolina.mt

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Valletta

Explore more

Get ready to dive into a festive wonderland of holiday events, sparkling celebrations, and joyful activities that will make your stay truly unforgettable this Christmas season!

@VisitMalta

magic

FOOD

Words by

Adriana Bishop

A pot of humble goodness: Soppa tal-Armla Featuring whatever green and white vegetable neighbours could spare to help a widow rustle up a meal, this soup is a symbol of resilience and resourcefulness, and still a favourite today.

On 30th September, the minimum temperature in Malta dropped below 20 degrees Celsius for the first time in 118 days. This could only mean one thing: soup season had officially begun.

After months of sweltering heat, we were all ready for real autumn feels, despite the fact that summer seems to go on forever on the island, sometimes even up to Christmas. And nothing says autumn more than a warming bowl of comforting goodness packed with nutritious vegetables and a chunk of history.

– poor cooking – using cheap, seasonal vegetables such as potatoes, onions and cauliflower.

Just a couple of generations ago, almost every household was self-sufficient in the ingredients department: its larder was the veg patch or field, plus a few chickens for eggs. Milk was delivered fresh, milked directly on your doorstep from the goat, cheese and pasta were homemade and bread was always on the table, sometimes the sole ingredient of a frugal meal. Many lived on just what they could afford to grow in their field and meat was a rare treat saved for special occasions.

Because, of course, every dish in Malta comes with a story and this particular soup is a testament to simpler times when meals were cooked on a stone kenur, with ingredients grown in your own garden or field, all produced by hand.

Characteristically green and white from the type of vegetables used, this soup is a symbol of resilience and resourcefulness, proving how a filling, nutritious meal can be created from just a few simple, readily available ingredients.

As the name implies, Widow’s Soup – Soppa talArmla – is a budget-friendly, nourishing meal made from humble ingredients that even a penniless widow could afford. It is the very definition of cucina povera

What makes this soup different are the eggs that are poached directly in the brothy mix at the end, along with ġbejniet – traditional Maltese goat’s cheese – providing nutritious protein and turning it into a complete, hearty dish.

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Photo: Jeff Fabri. A version of the Soppa tal-Armla.

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In preparation for this article, I decided to make Soppa tal-Armla for lunch on the first day of October as a freak storm thundered outside signalling the definitive end to summer, at least for that day.

“Hmm, what are you cooking?” asked my English husband hungrily.

and spinach. Food writer Helen Caruana Galizia, who wrote The Food and Cookery of Malta and Gozo, a veritable bible of local gastronomy, adds kohlrabi, cos lettuce, curly endive and even a handful of borage, a traditional addition “that has largely been forgotten”.

“Widow’s Soup,” I finally said. “It’s research,” I continued, unhelpfully.

She recalls how eminent politician Herbert Ganado, who wrote the four-volume Rajt Malta Tinbidel (I saw Malta change) biography of the nation wrapped around his autobiography, goes into raptures over this soup prepared for him and his siblings by their maid Dolor whenever they visited her house.

Every cookbook and blog I checked seemed to have its own version of the recipe, which is unsurprising given that the soup is basically a pot of humble goodness using whatever is in season. It is believed that its name derives from the fact that a widow’s neighbours, taking pity on her reduced income, would donate whatever ingredient they could spare, and she would add it in her pot to make a meal.

In an attempt to trace the origin of this dish, Caruana Galizia points out that in some parts of Spain, namely Andalucia and Catalonia, they too like to poach eggs and add soft cheese to soups and stews. She suggests that this practice might have been introduced to Malta by Spanish Knights of St John, who hailed from Castile and Aragon, or earlier still, from the time when the islands were part of the Catalan empire of the Kings of Aragon after the Sicilian Vespers of 1282.

I decided to stick to tradition as much as possible, using potatoes, white onions, celery, cauliflower, peas

Whatever the story, the soup remains a staple of the Maltese kitchen to this day, and not just among widows.

I looked at him, not sure how to respond.

Widow’s soup Try this recipe from The Food and Cookery of Malta and Gozo by Helen Caruana Galizia.

SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 2 onions, sliced 2 potatoes, peeled and chopped 50g butter Olive oil 200g cauliflower florets 1kg fresh spinach 1 stick celery 1 kohlrabi, chopped 1 cos lettuce, chopped 1 curly endive, chopped 400g peas 4 eggs 4 fresh ġbejniet (or other soft goat’s cheese) 4 tbsp ricotta Pepper and salt Optional: borage, a small bunch METHOD Cook the onions gently in the butter and olive oil, without allowing them to brown. Add all the rest of the vegetables and cook for a few minutes longer. Add water to cover, then simmer very gently for about an hour.

Just before serving, poach the eggs gently in the soup and add the fresh ġbejniet and ricotta. Place a poached egg, a ġbejna cheeselet and a portion of ricotta in each bowl and ladle the soup over them. Borage leaves, if using, may be used in the same way as spinach and the blue shoots added at the very end.

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Historian Liam Gauci.

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Chef Philip Zammit, Taste History.

VisitMalta and Heritage Malta collaborate in London to showcase culinary delights of Malta's past Taste History, the culinary arm of Heritage Malta, in collaboration with VisitMalta, will be at WTM London 2025.

Taste History, in collaboration with the Malta Tourism Authority (MTA), will host the Maltese delegation’s main networking event in this year’s edition of WTM London.

This year’s chosen venue, the Foundling Museum in London, is an inspired setting, echoing the enduring cultural and social ties between Malta and England.

At the heart of this initiative lies Taste History, a project that harnesses the power of food to bring Malta’s history to life. By curating experiences that blend gastronomy, research and storytelling, Taste History fosters active engagement and participation, inviting audiences to connect with the island’s past through the universal language of food.

The choice of the Foundling Museum as the stage for this event is both intentional and symbolic. Beyond the political and economic connections between Malta and England in the early 19th century, there exists a rich social dimension. One striking example of this is found in the autobiography of George King, an 18th-century foundling whose unpredictable life and fortunes took him across the globe. In his account, one of the places he mentions visiting is Malta.

In many ways, George King can be seen as a visitor, a tourist of sorts. Through his writings, and what we know was being consumed in Malta in the early 19th century, we can speculate what this foundling was eating on our islands.

Drawing upon King’s accounts, Taste History’s chairman and historian, Liam Gauci, together with Chef Philip Zammit, have curated a bespoke menu for this evening. The dishes, served within the very corridors where King once spent his childhood, are recreated using the same ingredients he savoured during his time in Malta decades later.

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Among the highlights of the menu are: • Grilled polenta with baccalà and bitter orange conserve • Venison Wellington • Smoked albacore tuna en croûte • Seared duck breast marinated in verjuice, honey and juniper • Galette with soft Maltese goat’s cheese and roasted Maltese figs Each dish offers a sensory portal into Malta’s culinary past.

The polenta and baccalà are sweetened with bitter orange conserve, hand-picked and prepared from the Queen’s residence in Guardmangia, owned by Heritage Malta.

The duck prepared with verjuice and juniper speaks to the island’s long-standing reliance on preservation techniques.

In fact, Taste History has this year prepared its own Verjuice from Maltese Chardonnay and Malvasia grapes. These are grown and pressed by Chef Malcolm Baldacchino, another member of the Taste History team.

The inclusion of venison highlights the island’s strategic position at the crossroads of the Mediterranean, where influences from the European mainland and beyond shaped its food culture.

This event not only underscores the versatility of Maltese produce but also highlights how food connects Malta to the wider Mediterranean and global context. By exploring these intersections, Taste History reaffirms its commitment to connect with cultural entities from across the globe and present Malta as a destination where culture, heritage and gastronomy intertwine.

Welcome!

Merħba!

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AIRLINE ????????

NEWS

KM MALTA AIRLINES Launches Flight + Hotel Packages with KM Malta Holidays

KM Malta Airlines is delighted to announce the launch of its brand-new holiday packages, KM Malta Holidays (www.holidays.kmmaltairlines.com), offering travellers a seamless and flexible way to plan their perfect getaway from and to 18 destinations. The new service combines flights, hotels and optional extras in one simple booking experience through the KM Malta Airlines website.

Whether it’s a short weekend break or a longer escape, customers can now enjoy unbeatable package deals on flights, fantastic hotel options, and the freedom to personalise their holiday with airport transfers or car hire for added convenience.

Key Benefits of KM Malta Holidays: • Destinations: 18 European destinations that include all major capital cities • Best Flight Deals: Competitive prices across all destinations for great value getaways.

• Generous Baggage Allowance: Includes a small bag, 10kg hand luggage, and 20kg checked luggage.

• Wide Range of Hotel Choices: Catering to all preferences and budgets.

• Stress-free Add-ons: Simple booking for airport transfers or car hire to make travel effortless.

• All-in-One Booking: Everything you need for the ideal holiday, all in one place.

“Our aim is to make booking a holiday simple and affordable,” said David Curmi, Executive Chairman for KM Malta Airlines. “By offering flights and hotels together in one package between Malta and a range of top destinations, we ensure travellers get the best value and a hassle-free experience. Package holiday bookings are expected to soar to 32% by 2025/2026, and by 2030 the market is expected to be 49%. This is now KM Malta Airlines moment to secure its share of this booming travel sector.”

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POWERED BY TRIPX The KM Malta Holidays packages are made possible through a partnership with TripX Travel, a market-leading travel-tech company and online travel agency founded in 2010 with headquarters in Sweden. TripX provides directto-consumer travel services based on a unique, real-time, dynamic packaging solution to more than 200 destinations in over 50 countries.

Since 2012, TripX has served hundreds of thousands of customers in Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland and throughout the EU. In addition, TripX operates partner-branded direct-to-consumer package travel services for international airlines and travel companies such as Norwegian Air, airBaltic, Wakacje, Vola, Rejsespejder and Holiday Pirates through an innovative white-label/clone setup seamlessly integrated into European e-commerce websites.

For more information about TripX Travel, visit tripxtravel.com or contact info@tripxtravel.com The new KM Malta Holidays packages are available now covering 18 KM Malta Airlines destinations. For more information or to book your next holiday, visit www.holidays.kmmaltairlines.com

AIRLINE NEWS

REMEMBERING 110 YEARS

Photo: Gareth Mercieca.

of aviation in Malta

October 2025 saw the holding of the eighth edition of the Como to Malta Seaplanes Rally – Roberts Cup, starting from the beautiful lake and mountains of Como, Italy. Pilots of several small seaplanes each year navigate the often-treacherous October weather to reach the Grand Harbour of Malta with its equally fascinating background of medieval bastions and magnificent waters.

This all takes place in the name of adventure and this year also in remembrance of the 110 years of aviation in Malta, which includes a glorious history of seaplanes from 1915 until the late 1940s.

And just as in the pioneering days of aviation, the pilots of this interesting competition personally sign and carry the Italian post to Malta! This year’s cover in fact celebrates the 10th anniversary of the Malta Seaplanes Association, a not-for-profit voluntary organisation VO/1222, which continues to support the creation of a seaplanes base, with clean and quiet electric aircraft and a chic civic centre in Marsa.

With the appropriate level of government support, this club will bring the inner harbour community together for a better social environment and a more exciting economic future. seaplanesmalta

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Step into a world of rewards!

Your Journey, Your Rewards

Join

KM Rewards Scan below to register

Or visit kmmaltairlines.com/en/km-rewards

Download the KM Rewards mobile app

Discover a world of exclusive benefits with KM Rewards, the loyalty programme designed to make your travels with KM Malta Airlines even more rewarding. Every time you fly, you earn SkyBux, which can be redeemed for flights, extras and more!

Join for free today and start turning your SkyBux into unforgettable journeys.

Climb the tiers faster and unlock the exclusive perks of KM Elite – before you can say: "Ready for take-off!"

WITH KM REWARDS, YOU’LL ENJOY: Exciting rewards Seamless travel perks Exclusive offers and discounts … and much more!

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AIRLINE NEWS

EARN INSTANTLY! Just joined KM Rewards or forgot to add your membership number?

You can earn on flights flown up to 3 months before the date you join; existing members can claim for the past 6 months. To claim, visit your KM Rewards account and click Claim Missing SkyBux.

BOOK FASTER, FLY SOONER! Log in to your account before you book and let us do the work for you!

Your personal details are filled in automatically, saving you time.

Less typing, more travelling!

SKYBUX AT YOUR SERVICE – NOW ONLINE! Whether you fly often or just once in a while, your SkyBux can help you save on your next trip with KM Malta Airlines.

Use them to save on your flight or to enjoy extras like extra legroom or more baggage. With our easy-to-use slider, you decide how much SkyBux and cash to combine.

Your SkyBux are ready to go!

AND THERE’S MORE TO COME! New ways to redeem your SkyBux are on the way – not just for travel, but beyond. Stay tuned!

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FLIGHT INFORMATION

KM MALTA AIRLINES DIRECT FLIGHTS

Amsterdam

Berlin

London – Heathrow London – Gatwick Brussels

Düsseldorf Prague

Paris – Charles de Gaulle

Munich

Paris – Orly

Vienna Zurich

Lyon Milan – Linate

Rome – Fuminicio

Istanbul

Madrid

Malta

WINTER SCHEDULE 2025/2026 Mon

Tue

Wed

Thur

Fri

Amsterdam (AMS) Berlin (BER) Brussels (BRU) Düsseldorf (DUS) Istanbul (IST) London (LHR) London (LGW) Lyon (LYS) Madrid (MAD) Milan (LIN) Munich (MUC) Paris (CDG) Paris (ORY) Prague (PRG) Rome (FCO) Vienna (VIE) Zurich (ZRH)

Information is subject to change.

Sat

Sun

FLIGHT????????

INFORMATION

FLIGHT AND COMPANY INFORMATION INFORMAZZJONI DWAR IT-TITJIRA U L-KUMPANIJA

Welcome on board KM Malta Airlines

Merħba abbord il-KM Malta Airlines

We’re excited to have you with us and want to ensure you have a comfortable and enjoyable flight. Here are a few important tips to keep everything smooth and safe for everyone.

Aħna ħerqanin li inti tkun magħna, u rridu nkunu żguri li jkollok titjira komda u pjaċevoli. Hawnhekk issib ftit pariri importanti biex jinżamm kollox pinna u sigur għal kulħadd.

OUR MAIN AIRPORT HUB IĊ-ĊENTRU EWLIENI TAL-AJRUPORT TAGĦNA Malta International Airport (MLA), the main hub for KM Malta Airlines, first opened in 1958 as Luqa Airport and has since grown into a modern, world-class facility. Playing a crucial role in connecting the island to hundreds of destinations, MLA supports KM Malta Airlines’ extensive network of flights. Guided by core values, the airport ensures a seamless travel experience for all passengers. By working sustainably and collaboratively with its partners, MLA continues to enhance Malta's connectivity and deliver exceptional service to travellers worldwide.

L-Ajruport Internazzjonali ta’ Malta (MLA), iċ-ċentru ewlieni għall-KM Malta Airlines, fetaħ għall-ewwel darba fl-1958 u minn dakinhar kiber f’faċilità moderna u ta’ klassi dinjija. Bi rwol kruċjali biex jgħaqqad ’il gżiritna ma’ mijiet ta’ destinazzjonijiet, l-MLA jappoġġja x-xibka estensiva tat-titjiriet tal-KM Malta Airlines. Iggwidat minn valuri tal-qalba, l-ajruport jiżgura esperjenza ta’ vjaġġ trankwill għall-passiġġieri kollha. Permezz tal-ħidma sostenibbli u kollaborattiva mal-imsieħba tiegħu, l-MLA jissokta jsaħħaħ l-konnettività ta’ Malta u jagħti servizz eċċezzjonali lill-vjaġġaturi mad-dinja kollha.

OUR FLEET IL-FLOTTA TAGĦNA AIRBUS 320NEO

QUANTITY: 8 IN FLEET NUMBER OF SEATS: 180 ENGINES: CFM LEAP-1A MAXIMUM TAKE OFF WEIGHT: 73.5 / 77 METRIC TONS OVERALL LENGTH: 37.57M WINGSPAN: 35.8M CRUISING SPEED: MACH 0.78 (450KNOTS, 833KM/HR) RANGE: 6,500KM, 3,500 NMI, 4,025 SMI FUEL CONSUMPTION: 1.8 LITRES PER 100KM PER PASSENGER* * Based on a 1,000NM (1,860KM) journey with 180 pax and bags.

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FLIGHT INFORMATION

A quick heads-up!

Inħejjuk bil-quddiem!

SEATBELT SAFETY

Your seatbelt is here for your protection!

Please fasten it whenever the seatbelt sign is on or while the aircraft is moving. For your safety, we recommend keeping it fastened throughout the flight. If you’re travelling with a child under two, they’ll need to be secured on your lap with an infant seatbelt, which our crew will be happy to provide.

ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION

Only alcohol served by our crew is allowed on board, and it’s only for passengers aged 17 and over. Remember, alcohol can have a stronger effect at high altitudes, so please enjoy responsibly. In line with international regulations, we may prevent intoxicated passengers from boarding or continuing their journey.

PHOTOGRAPHY ETIQUETTE

We want everyone to feel comfortable, so please respect your fellow passengers and crew. Please do not take photos or videos on board without their verbal permission.

NO SMOKING ZONE

For the safety and comfort of everyone, smoking – including e-cigarettes and vaping – is strictly prohibited at any time when on board the aircraft. If you see anyone smoking, let our crew know immediately.

SURVEY

Customer satisfaction is of the utmost importance at KM Malta Airlines and we are always looking for ways to improve. Scan the QR code to tell us about your experience and be in with a chance to win a pair of return flights with us!

IS-SIGURTÀ TAĊ-ĊINTURIN

Iċ-ċinturin tiegħek qiegħed għall-protezzjoni tiegħek! Jekk jogħġbok aqflu kull meta s-sinjal taċ-ċinturin ikun mixgħul jew sakemm ikun miexi l-ajruplan. Għas-sigurtà tiegħek, aħna nirrakkomandaw li żżommu maqful matul it-titjira kollha. Jekk qed tivvjaġġa bl-ulied taħt is-sentejn, dawn għandhom jinżammu fuq ħoġrok b’ċinturin għat-trabi li l-ekwipaġġ ikun kuntent li jagħtik.

IL-KONSUM TAL-ALKOĦOL

Abbord huwa permessibbli biss l-alkoħol servut mill-ekwipaġġ tagħna, u dan qiegħed biss għallpassiġġieri li għandhom 17-il sena jew iktar. Ftakar, f’altitudnijiet għolja l-alkoħol jista’ jkollu effetti aqwa, għalhekk, jekk jogħġbok, ħu gost b’mod responsabbli.

Skont ir-regolamenti internazzjonali, nistgħu nipprevjenu lill-passiġġieri fis-sakra milli jitilgħu abbord jew milli jissuktaw bil-vjaġġ tagħhom.

L-ETIKETT TAL-FOTOGRAFIJA

Irridu li kulħadd iħossu komdu, għalhekk, jekk jogħġbok, irrispetta lill-passiġġieri ta’ miegħek u lillekwipaġġ. Jekk jogħġbok tiħux ritratti jew filmati abbord mingħajr il-permess verbali tagħhom.

POST LI FIH MA TPEJJIPX

Għas-sigurtà u l-kumdità ta’ kulħadd, it-tipjip – inklużi s-sigaretti elettroniċi u vaping – huwa pprojbit f’kull waqt abbord l-ajruplan. Jekk tara lil xi ħadd ipejjep, għarraf lill-ekwipaġġ tagħna minnufih.

STĦARRIĠ

Is-sodisfazzjon tal-klijent huwa tal-ogħla importanza għall- KM Malta Airlines u b’hekk aħna dejjem infittxu modi kif intejbu dan. Skennja l-kodiċi QR biex tgħidilna iktar dwar l-esperjenza tiegħek u idħol fiċ-ċans li tirbaħ magħna żewġ biljetti bir-ritorn!

SCAN & WIN • SKENNJA U IRBAĦ • SCAN & WIN • SKENNJA U IRBAĦ 102

ELECTRONIC ????????

DEVICES

USING PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES (PEDs) L-UŻU TAT-TAGĦMIR ELETTRONIKU PORTABBLI (PEDs) Most portable electronic devices (PEDs) are equipped with powerful lithium batteries. Under certain conditions, these can overheat and catch fire. By following these instructions, you will be enhancing safety on board our aircraft. Monitor your PEDs during the flight and protect them from damage and unintentional activation. E-cigarettes and power banks can be easily activated and raise their temperature quickly. Keep them on your person if you can, and do not place them next to flammable items such as perfume when in hand baggage. Power banks are not to be used or charged during the flight.

PEDs IN FLIGHT MODE

Any devices that can send or receive data by wireless means, such as smartphones, tablets and e-readers must be switched to flight mode before departure and can be used throughout the flight. If data transmission capability cannot be switched off while the device is operating, the device itself must be switched off completely for the duration of the flight. Bluetooth connectivity can be used during all phases of flight.

LARGER DEVICES (LAPTOPS, LARGE TABLETS)

These should be turned off and stowed away during taxi, take-off and landing, but you’re free to use them during the cruise.

Wi-Fi

The use of Wi-Fi with flight mode enabled is allowed on aircraft which are equipped with an in-flight entertainment system. Follow any crew instructions regarding connectivity.

USE OF HEADPHONES

Headphones may be used during all phases of flight, however we ask you to remove them during the safety briefing. Customers sitting in an emergency exit row must refrain from using headphones during taxi, take-off and landing.

DAMAGED OR OVERHEATING DEVICES

If any device is damaged, starts to overheat or produces smoke, is lost or falls into the seat structure, please notify our crew immediately.

Do not try to retrieve it yourself if it falls between seats; we’ll take care of it. Carriage of damaged, defective or recalled lithium batteries or devices is prohibited on board our flights.

We kindly ask that all passengers follow these guidelines for the safety and comfort of everyone on board. Have a fantastic flight with KM Malta Airlines!

Ħafna mill-PEDs huma mgħammra b’batteriji b’saħħithom tal-litju. Meta jkunu taħt ċerti kundizzjonijiet dawn jistgħu jisħnu żżejjed u jieħdu n-nar. Jekk issegwi dawn l-istruzzjonijiet, inti tkun qed issaħħaħ is-sigurtà abbord l-ajruplani tagħna. Osserva l-PEDs tiegħek matul ittitjira u pproteġihom mill-ħsara u milli jixegħlu b’mod mhux intenzjonat. Is-sigaretti elettroniċi u l-power banks jistgħu jixegħlu faċilment u t-temperatura tagħhom tista’ tiżdidilhom malajr. Jekk tista’ żommhom fuqek, u tqegħedhomx ħdejn oġġetti li jieħdu n-nar bħal fwieħa meta dawn ikunu fil-bagalja tal-idejn. Il-power banks m’għandhomx jintużaw jew jiġu ċċarġjati matul it-titjira.

IL-PEDs FUQ IL-MODALITÀ TAT-TITJIRA

Kwalunkwe tagħmir elettroniku li jista’ jibgħat jew jirċievi d-data mingħajr il-ħtieġa ta’ wajer, bħall-ismartphones, it-tablets u l-e-readers għandhom jinqalbu għall-modalità tat-titjira qabel it-tluq, u hekk jistgħu jintużaw matul ittitjira kollha. Jekk il-funzjoni tat-trasmissjoni tad-data ma tistax tintefa waqt li t-tagħmir elettroniku jkun mixgħul, it-tagħmir innifsu għandu jintefa għalkollox tul it-titjira kollha. Il-konnettività tal-Bluetooth tista’ tintuża tul il-fażijiet kollha tat-titjira.

IT-TAGĦMIR ELETTRONIKU TA’ DAQS IKBAR (LAPTOPS, TABLETS KBAR)

Dawn għandhom jintfew u jintrefgħu matul is-sewqan, it-tlugħ u l-inżul, iżda tista’ tużahom b’mod liberu tul il-kruċiera.

IL-Wi-Fi

L-użu tal-Wi-Fi bil-modalità tat-titjira mixgħula huwa permessibbli fuq l-ajruplani mgħammra bis-sistema taddivertiment ta’ matul it-titjira. Segwi kull istruzzjoni talekwipaġġ rigward il-konnettività.

L-UŻU TAL-HEADPHONES

Il-headphones jistgħu jintużaw tul il-fażijiet kollha tat-titjira, madankollu nitolbuk tneħħihom waqt l-ispjegazzjoni tas-sigurtà. Il-klijenti bilqiegħda f’xi filliera tal-ħruġ tal-emerġenza m’għandhomx jużaw ilheadphones matul is-sewqan, it-tlugħ u l-inżul.

IT-TAGĦMIR ELETTRONIKU BIL-ĦSARA JEW LI JKUN SAĦAN IŻŻEJJED Jekk xi tagħmir elettroniku jkollu l-ħsara, jibda jisħon jew idaħħan, jintilef jew jaqa’ fl-istruttura tal-pultruna, jekk jogħġbok għarraf lill-ekwipaġġ tagħna minnufih.

Tippruvax issibu inti jekk jaqa’ bejn il-pultruni; nieħdu ħsiebu aħna. Il-ġarr ta’ batteriji tal-litju jew tagħmir elettroniku bil-ħsara, difettuż jew wieħed li ntalab jinġabar lura huwa pprojbit abbord it-titjiriet tagħna.

Ġentilment nitolbu li l-passiġġieri kollha jsegwu dawn il-linji gwida għas-sigurtà u l-kumdità ta’ kulħadd abbord. Nixtiqulek titjira fantastika mal-KM Malta Airlines!

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