JT Winter 2024

Page 1

Bringing the past to the present with an iconic design from space exploration history.

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To find out more, contact us today.

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COMMUNITY All the Support you need as an independent jeweller

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Debbie Whiting Debra Douglas

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Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

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The Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated. 2024

The official magazine of

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Contact: Citizen Watches New Zealand, Scott Powell, M +64 21508019. https://www.citizenwatches.com.au

CONTENTS 6 Talkback 8 News 16 Town and Around 18 Shining bright 23 Play list of jewels 24 All things jewellery 28 WHAT’S HOT 33 Contemporary heritage showcased 35 We are all ears… 38 Goodbye Peachtree Road 40 How would you like your pearls, diced or sliced? 43 Lost or stolen 44 Five of the best 45 Gems rediscovered 46 Jewellery Industry Registration Board 47 JWNZ President’s Report 47 Goldsmiths Guild of NZ 49 JWNZ Executive Notes 50 New Products and Services

Light. Strong. Elegant.

Boccia Titanium Jewellery is made from the highest quality materials. Nickel free and allergy free, titanium is not only light but nice to your skin-perfect for everyday wear.

Pacific Time stock a wide range of Boccia Titanium best-selling rings and earrings.

Wear your story, one accessory at a time.

Introducing Lisa Daysh, owner of Audacious Gems …

Where do you live and who do you share your home with?

I live in Napier with my husband Stephen.

Gemstone wholesaler is hardly an everyday career ... how did it happen that you went down this path?

This is my third career, with the previous two providing business experience to enable me to jump into a completely new field. I am a magpie and just love anything shiny. A good friend who is a jeweller started me off in 2011 when I designed my own pieces to sell in his shop and began my GIA study. I couldn’t find the gems I wanted to use and he said that what we really needed was some more gem dealers. From that point I just did it.

What qualifications do you hold?

I started my working career as a Registered Valuer after completing a Batchelor of Business Studies at Massey University, then after Stephen and I moved to Hawke’s Bay and bought land to establish a vineyard/wine production company, I spent a year at EIT completing a Certificate in Grape Growing and Winemaking. I achieved my Graduate Gemologist qualification from the Gemological Institute of America in 2013.

When did you start your company and who do you work alongside?

I created Audacious Gems Limited in 2013 and it is solely owned, funded and operated by me. I do it all – buying, selling, IT and admin.

What is Audacious Gems’ core business and who are your customers? My core business involves sourcing sapphire, emerald and ruby, along with a range of other coloured stones including aquamarine, tourmaline, tanzanite, spinel, garnet, moonstone, quartz, greenstone and pretty much anything that takes my fancy. As a service to my customers, I also stock calibrated semi-precious smalls and a limited range of synthetics including CZ, emerald, ruby and moissanite. My customers are all delightful creative business owners who are a mixture of bricks and mortar and online retailers.

Attending the JWNZ trade fairs and visiting the jewellery schools added artisan and student jewellers to my customer list.

How did the name ‘Audacious’ come about?

Stephen suggested my company name as a play on our surname, Daysh, but it is also a statement about the type of products I wanted to carry, being the more unusual, bold and sometimes outrageous choices.

We understand you travel internationally several times a year… I personally select the bulk of my products, so travel to several cutting centres overseas each year. I have found and acquired many excellent suppliers since the inception of Audacious Gems and built close working relationships with many families and companies. To get the good stuff as they say, you have to go there. The buying process is intense and involves days of looking through several thousand stones and making instant purchase decisions. Followed by the price negotiation, which is part art and part sparring.

There is an increased scrutiny of the ethics surrounding removal and the pathway to markets for gems –how have you had to adapt to the expectations of your customers?

I have always been cognisant of expectations of my customers relating to ethics in the gem industry and have had information on my website long before it became a convention to do so. By being personally inmarket, I keep tabs on supply chain, workers conditions and have a full understanding of the cutting industry in several countries.

Peach Fuzz is Pantone's Colour of the Year - what gemstones would echo this colour?

The best peach tones come from the very elusive pale Padparadscha (Lotus Flower Pink) Sapphire. I call it elusive, as 90% of stones I see at the buying table are too brown, orange, pink or yellow –it is a real win to actually find a perfect peach.

Your personal favourite gemstone? And why?

My perennial favourite is emerald, which I think harks back to a childhood book about The Wizard of Oz and the Emerald City.

Tell us about a memorable moment in your working career…

Being put off a broken down Auto (tuk tuk) in the middle of Jaipur, India, early evening with no hotel address card. Colourful noisy bedlam with a paucity of English speakers and absolutely no idea where I was,

As a familiar face at the JWNZ Fair, tell us your reasons for exhibiting at this annual event…

It is important to support my local industry and JWNZ puts on a great event where I catch up with existing customers and meet new customers. What better opportunity to showcase a larger range of stock than I can carry to instore meetings.

What will visitors see on your fair stand this year?

With consumer spend projected to decline this year I think retail customers are more likely to buy lower cost items for themselves and gifting. My stand focus will be on earring pairs, smaller calibrated gems suitable for cast mounts, big amethyst and citrine bang for buck and of course anything ‘peach fuzz’.

How do you relax in your spare time?

Read, read, read.

If there was one luxury item you would like to buy for yourself today, what would that be?

I have been wanting an Aston Martin DB5 or DB11 all my life.

Lisa Daysh and her daughter Zillah at the 2023 JWNZ Fair.



The 2024 JWNZ SPRING TRADE FAIR is less than four months away and we have so much to share with the industry. The RNZYS will be bursting at the seams - we have two new rooms and 12 new exhibitors.

• Sparkle Impex

• Blu Moon Diamonds

• A& C Oslo Jewellery

• RAD Wholesale Jewellery

• Time Supply

• Poix & Troy

• Eugenes

• Couture Kingdom

• Heart & Grace

• Nina’s Fine Diamond Jewellery

• Oozoo Timepieces


Pictured is James Shue being presented with his Trade Certificate as a qualified manufacturing jeweller tradesperson by Sam Drummond, director of Cameron Jewellery, Palmerston North.

James had previously worked for five years in insurance, but says he wasn’t enjoying the business anymore.

“I was not motivated to go to work and realised that office life just wasn't for me. Given I would be spending a large chunk of my life working, I wanted to do something that I enjoy. Being a

We know this will all help to get more visitors along to view some exciting new ranges never seen in NZ before and welcome back previous exhibitors. We have certainly grown out of the building at RNZYS and for 2025 we will have a wonderful new exhibition space with double the capacity and all on one level. This will be announced at the fair in September.

The Trade Fair weekend will kick off with the JWNZ AGM on Saturday September 7, at the RNZYS. Then get the polish out on your cowboy boots for a Western-themed dinner and dance (we are talking line dancing… but you can just watch if you prefer) from

“I randomly came across a video on YouTube of a ring being made. I thought it was interesting and wanted to give it a go. I attended a one-day workshop in Auckland which sparked my interest in making jewellery.”

James moved from Auckland to Palmerston North and took on a fouryear apprenticeship with Cameron Jewellery. On receiving his certificate James received a watch with his name and trade certificate number engraved on the back from the Cameron

6pm, just $35 for dinner and a house beverage, also a welcome surprise beverage and take home treats.

Come bright and early to the Sunday morning to the fair and enjoy a complimentary barista coffee, free fresh muffins, or a delicious Danish. RNZYS has a wonderful new café, so stay for lunch and enjoy our champagne hour from 3.30pm to 4.30pm.

Just to add icing on the cake, we have two travel prize draws, one at noon and one at 4pm. Each for $500; details will be explained on entry to the fair. Come along and enjoy. Visitors need to register: www.jewelleryfair.co.nz

Sell with us.

Webb's Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories department is seeking entries for our online and live auctions of 2024. This year we are seeking gold jewellery in various carat weights, designs and applications as global prices and market trends have shown it as increasingly popular with our client base.

We are also after diamond pieces, including pendants, earrings, bracelets, rings, and solitaires in larger sizes. In recent auctions we have had the privilege of bringing to market significant and unique items — such as an important, platinum, modern, 3.32ct diamond / .43ct Argyle Pink diamond ring which reached a $179,250 price (including buyer's premium) — and would welcome similar items of unique design and heirloom potential.

High quality timepieces from Swiss Manufacture, including vintage, antique, gold and pocket watches will attract much attention come auction day, like that of Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Tag Heuer to name a few. Contact us today for a complimentary appraisal, we would love to hear from you. Christine

christinep@webbs.co.nz +64 27 929 5607 Auctions Private Sales Valuations webbs.co.nz auckland 33a Normanby Road Mount Eden Auckland 1024 +64 9 529 5600 wellington 23 Marion Street Te Aro Wellington 6011 +64 4 555 6001
Power AJP (GIA)
& Luxury Accessories


As creative partner of this year’s Olympic and Paralympic Games in Paris, LVMH called upon Parisian jeweller Chaumet to design and create the medals, the ultimate Olympic symbol.

Chaumet drew inspiration from its heritage and the iconic symbols of France and Paris. The hexagon, an emblem that symbolises France, is amplified by a series of rays that evoke the radiance of the nation, as well as that of the Olympians and Paralympians who will compete. The faceting on the medals is designed to reflect light and evoke the French capital’s much-loved nickname, the City of Light.

Paris 2024 and its Athletes Commission, felt that the medal-winning champions should have a little piece of France close to their heart. Therefore, the centre of each medal has been cut from an authentic piece of iron from the Eiffel Tower, preserved during the renovation of the monument. Chaumet crafted this centre in a hexagon shape and set it inside the medal with a technique known as ‘griffe setting’, which the Maison employs for the precious gemstones in its high jewellery pieces. This setting evokes the ‘Clous de Paris’ hobnail motif found in fine jewellery, as well as the pattern of rivets on the Eiffel Tower itself.

The other side, which is identical for both Games, illustrates the rebirth of the modern Olympic Games in Greece. Nike, the Greek goddess of victory, is depicted against the backdrop of the Acropolis leaving the Panathenaic Stadium, where the first Modern Olympics were held in 1896. For this edition of the Games, Paris 2024 wanted the Eiffel Tower to join the Acropolis. This side of the Olympic medal thus pays tribute to the Ancient Olympic Games in Greece, as well as the modern games, which this year celebrate their return to the French capital a century after the 1924 Summer Olympics.

Tony Estanguet, President of Paris 2024, commented: “More than a medal, this is a combination of the most coveted object of the Games and the most iconic symbol of Paris and France, the Eiffel Tower. Thanks to Chaumet, the medal for the Paris 2024 Games becomes a veritable objet d’art, a jewel that brings together the radiance of Paris and the crowning achievement of all those who will ascend the podiums during the Olympics and Paralympics.”

Distributed by: NAJO PTY LTD
The Brand Agent M: +64 27 722 6000 E: helen@thebrandagent.co.nz NEW COLLECTION

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia

M. +64 27 722 6000

E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia

Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent

M. +64 27 722 6000

E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

JT2024 WINTER 11 Bear Grylls ECO NO PLANET B 3720 Series More on luminox.com
The Brand Agent
Contact: Helen Finlayson


Geoff Taylor, of Geoff Taylor Goldsmith & Jeweller, Cambridge and a contributor to JT, has closed his business after 55 years of bench work.

“While enjoying the love of my craft, it was time to pull the plug,” said Geoff. “I have great appreciation for those people in the trade who have upheld the principles, are so dedicated to the cause and created the Guild as an


After 17 years in the making, Australian jeweller Matthew Ely has presented his Iluka necklace featuring 713 Argyle pink and white diamonds and one of the largest and longest known strands of South Seas Keshi pearls in existence.

The Iluka necklace, whose name is derived from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘near the sea’, was 17 years in the making, with 13 of those years spent sourcing the Keshi pearls and another four producing the final design concept.

Sourced from off the coast of Broome, the 42 Keshi pearls were the inspiration for Iluka. The largest, measuring 19.43mm, is encased between four diamond and handcarved crystal quartz petals: a detachable lotus flower brooch. The lotus is set with 534 round brilliant cut white diamonds, weighing 9.87ct, and 144 round brilliant cut Argyle pink


Watches & Wonders, the most important luxury watch salon of the year, opened its doors in April in Geneva. This year the annual event at the Palexpo Convention Centre was the largest ever with 54 exhibitors. One of those was Chanel which, with a touch of humour, presented its signature J12 limited edition series featuring Mademoiselle Chanel at work. The charming suited and hatted figure of the great couturier is depicted on dials in two scenarios, either seated surrounded by the tools of her trade, or during a fitting in the atelier with a mannequin and wielding her scissors.

endeavour to uphold a decent level of quality in the field of hand making.

“Being in business just got harder, especially with all the changes, metal costs and imported goods and on top of that I experienced theft of intellectual property from my business, contributing to the interruption of creativity and unnecessary legal expenses.

“It was a pleasure to put through a

diamonds, weighing 3.56ct.

“It was certainly an exercise in patience, but I never thought about giving up,” said Matthew. “I needed to do the Keshis justice; to create something that was fitting to how incredible rare these pearls are. After all, they took 13 years to source!

“This strand is one of a kind; there won’t be anything else that comes close. I’ve always loved to push the boundaries of what it’s possible to make.”

few apprentices to attainment of their qualifications and the teaching of the skills to them was my true love. I was going to transfer my business to my son last year, but he passed away. He was running our CAD machine and had a degree in design. After he went, so much talent died with him.

“May the true joy of this work be experienced by many in the future.”


Fabergé has unveiled its first capsule in a James Bond collaboration. Inspired by the 1983 007 film Octopussy, the capsule includes a hand-crafted, limited-edition egg objet and special edition egg surprise locket. It is fitting that the debut collection takes inspiration from Octopussy, which featured a plot line centred around a Fabergé egg heist.

The piece stands at 8.4cm tall, crafted from 18ct yellow gold and hand-painted with a rich green enamel, carefully selected for its similarity to the enamel used on the Fabergé egg featured in the film. A fascinating pattern is visible underneath the lustrous enamel, a combination of Fabergé’s signature guilloché, accompanied by an intricate artwork of engraved octopus tentacles which mysteriously wrap around the egg.

The egg is mounted on a stand set with white diamonds and blue sapphires and a gold 007 logo sits at the centre of the egg, marking the point of entry into discovering the signature Fabergé surprise hidden within. The egg opens to reveal an 18ct yellow gold octopus nestled inside, adorned with white diamond suckers and black diamond eyes.

Only 50 numbered pieces are available.

The Iluka necklace by Australian jeweller Matthew Ely.

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First time JWNZ Trade Fair exhibitor, Nina's Jewellery, founded in 1965, began its journey in Kununurra, Western Australia, right on what would become the famous Argyle Mine doorstep.

Since then, the company’s master jewellers have been creating quality pieces that celebrate the brilliance of Australian diamonds and pearls from Broome and the South Seas. And in the last few decades, they have added international colour to their mix, expanding their expertise as coloured diamond specialists.

In 1984, they were honoured to set the first Argyle diamonds. It was the start of a relationship that continues to this day, with their celebrated status as an Argyle Pink Diamond Select Atelier. The company’s showroom and workshop are now based in the coastal town of Dunsborough WA, but the great pride they take in the design and crafting of their jewellery remains unchanged - and now, they want to share it with New Zealanders. Having started as a wholesaler and after decades as a boutique jeweller and coloured diamond specialist, Nina's understands the challenges faced by modern jewellers and strives to help solve them. Using years of sales data, they have curated ranges based on

their own best sellers and international market trends, designed to be in line with everyone's bottom line.

Comprising natural coloured diamonds sourced from all over the world, Nina's Coloured Diamond Jewellery ranges include a high-impact take on coloured diamonds - Spectrum, a fresh collection of South Sea pearlsLustre and of course, their strength as one of the first Argyle Select Ateliers shines through with Rosé, their Argyle pink and blue diamond range. Plus, modern classics and high-quality takes on on-trend sparkle abound in their general collection.

"No two coloured diamonds are alike, so there's a real challenge and so much excitement to be able to offer such a unique and quality product to the market," said Shivangi Modi, Nina's General Manager of Product & Finance. "Our strength comes from our close bond with our manufacturing facility and our Australian-based designers and Master Jewellers. We travel to Mumbai every year to provide additional training to our team based there and handselect every stone ourselves. Every piece is inspected for quality by our Master Jewellers in Dunsborough."


After 45 years, Capital Watch Services is for sale. With a prime spot on the Golden Mile in Wellington, the store is the only watch sales and service centre in the Capital, with huge scope for future development such as, second-hand dealing, jewellery, clocks, engraving etc. We are members of the Nationwide buying group. Great staff, huge battery fitting trade, and as many repairs as you could ever want. All interior fittings are modern and attractive. All watchmaking equipment, huge spare parts stock, a massive range of straps, and of course a fine range of watches are included. If interested, ring Ash Wells on 021461614 for a chat. 14 JT2024 WINTER NEWS


April 15, 1912 - The richest man on the Titanic, American business magnate, John Jacob Astor, was last seen smoking a cigarette and chatting with a fellow passenger as the ship went down when it hit an iceberg on its maiden voyage. His body was recovered from the Atlantic a week later, along with his 14ct gold Waltham pocket watch, engraved on the case with his initials, JJA. The watch has been owned and maintained by a member of the Astor family since the tragedy and is known to collectors of Titanic memorabilia. One of those collectors bought the piece in April, at a Wiltshire-based Henry Aldridge & Son auction for £1.2 million. It had a pre-sale estimate of just £100,000 to £150,000.

The previous highest price paid for Titanic artefacts was £1.1 million at the same auction house in 2013 for a violin that was played as the ship sank.


Mexican Rogelio Villarreal was surfing the internet when he saw a pair of Cartier diamond-encrusted earrings priced at 237 Mexican pesos, or about US$13.

According to The New York Times, the earrings were supposed to be priced at 237,000 pesos (about US$13,000). Villarreal knew a deal when he saw one and bought two pairs.

Cartier quickly realised its error and changed the price online. It also tried to cancel Villarreal’s order, telling him it would send a complimentary bottle of Cartier Cuvée champagne and a leather item as “compensation”, the Times reported.

But Villarreal didn’t back down and he filed a complaint with Mexico’s consumer protection agency, citing a

law that said retailers must abide by stated terms and conditions. Eventually, after the incident received a great deal of press coverage, Cartier decided to honour the posted price.

“I’m excited,” Villarrea told the Times, “Especially for my mom. Those earrings are for her. But I hope no one got fired for the mistake.”

And ESSE earrings will add that final sophistication to any outfit.

Delicate amethyst cabochon and marcasite drops (43-266 AM)

Dramatic garnet and marcasite drops with black enamel accents (43-344 GAR) or Elegant green agate and marcasite drops with black enamel accents (43-352) All crafted in sterling silver and bead set with top grade Swarovski marcasites.

JT2024 WINTER 15
Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 or E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz Something to suit every age and taste. Winter ball season is almost upon us ‘Time
to glam up and sparkle’


Tell us about your background in the jewellery industry … when did it all begin?

I started in the industry in 1992 with N R McArthur Jewellers, Balclutha. I had always liked working with my hands, painting, sketching and working on scale models.

I saw an ad in the local paper and thought: "I'd really like to give that a go". I was lucky enough to get the job with the 8000 hours apprenticeship. I completed my hours, then moved to Dunedin and worked at shops in Mosgiel and Dunedin City.

Tell us about Dunedin Goldsmiths... John and Brenda McCallum and I started Dunedin Goldsmiths in 2009. We saw a need for a workshop-based jewellery shop in the centre of town. John and Brenda have since retired, but still pop in now and again to help me out and offer advice.

I deal with the customer directly at the counter and the workshop is right there behind me. A lot of people don't like the idea of things being sent away. It’s the way shops used to be before the malls took off.

What services do you offer?

I do all manufacturing and repairs. I like the one-off manufacturing jobs as they give the most satisfaction, although bringing a worn piece back to life is also very satisfying.

Tell us about the award you won as an apprentice.

That was 30 years ago. The Johnson Matthey Award for 1st Second Year Apprentice and Winner Overall 1993. I made a repose dragon brooch. I wanted to make something unique.

16 JT2024 WINTER Precious Gem Imports Ltd DIAMONDS OF DISTINCTION Roger McKinnon Joy Thavat Freephone 0800 PGI GEM or 0800 744 436
DUNEDIN Don Galog. PHOTO: DEBBIE WHITING Don’s award-winning dragon brooch.

I read up on the process then pretty much learned as I went along, with some guidance from a tutor at the Polytech.

Planned all my pieces out and started, (no YouTube videos in those days!).

How have your customers’ tastes in design and materials changed over the years?

Younger customers have moved a lot more into fully white gold rings and many with alternative central stones, as opposed to the traditional diamond/ sapphire etc. They are attracted to the look of many different stones.

What are your current best-selling jewellery pieces?

Gold chains and earrings are selling well.

Are you finding an increasing number of customers are opting to have old or

unused pieces re-modelled?

Customers have always enjoyed remaking their rings into something new. No real upsurge. They like the feeling they get when old items are remade into something new, but still retain all their previous sentiment.

Who have been your biggest mentors in this industry and what is the best advice they gave you?

Jannie Mowat taught me a lot of skills when I was an apprentice. John added to that with his experience working in Scotland.

What advice would you offer to those starting out in the trade...

Best advice is to learn as much as you can from those around you and to enjoy what you are doing.

What keeps you motivated about the jewellery and watch industry?

The designing and manufacturing of one-off pieces for customers and seeing the delight when they receive their new piece.

White gold or yellow ... what’s hot this year?

I prefer yellow gold, but white is still pretty popular.

How do you relax away from the business?

Away from work I am into scale models – scratch-building parts to expand on basic kits. I'm also in a hot rod car club and enjoy photography of said cars, motorcycle and car races.

Plans for the future...

To continue on and to grow the one-off manufacturing side, with maybe fewer repairs.

JT2024 WINTER 17 NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIUM GEMSTONE STOCKIST P.O. Box 37597 Parnell, Auckland Phone (09) 3778 038 Email sales@preciousgem.co.nz Fax (09) 309 6807 Website www.preciousgem.co.nz
From Don’s work bench - a Welsh dragon signet ring, in 2.9ct yellow gold and jade. 1.9ct white gold, sapphire and Celtic shoulders. 3.18ct white gold, 1ct diamond solitaire.

Shining bright

Amidst the vibrant streets and towering skyscrapers of Hong Kong, the glittering world of fine jewellery took centre stage in March at the 40th annual Hong Kong International Jewellery Show.

For four decades, the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show has been a beacon of innovation, excellence and prestige, attracting exhibitors and buyers from across the globe. This year's event was no exception, back in twin venues, the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre and the AsiaWorld-Expo, providing a sprawling canvas for the 40,000 exhibitors from 44 countries to showcase their finest creations.

One of the highlights of this year's event was the ‘Heritage Pavilion’, a tribute to the rich history of jewellery craftsmanship. Here the evolution of design techniques, cultural influences and iconic jewellery styles from around the world were explored.

In addition to showcasing the latest trends and innovations, the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show serves as a platform for industry networking, knowledge exchange, and business opportunities. Exhibitors and buyers converge to forge partnerships, discover new talent and gain insights into emerging market trends, shaping the future of the global jewellery landscape.

Amidst the glitz and glamour, sustainability and ethical sourcing took centre stage, reflecting a growing awareness of social and environmental responsibility within the industry. From ethically sourced diamonds to responsibly sourced gemstones, exhibitors showcased their commitment to transparency and ethical practices,

catering to an increasingly discerning clientele.

Beyond the exhibition halls, a series of seminars, workshops, and networking events offered buyers the opportunity to engage with industry experts, designers and thought leaders. Topics ranged from gemstone grading and investment strategies, to the intersection of technology and jewellery design.

The successful return of HKTDC’s ‘two shows, two venues’ format for the first time since the pandemic reaffirmed the Show’s position as a premier destination for New Zealand manufacturers and buyers to view what is arguably one the most expansive, yet friendly fairs.

Buyers saw several key trends and offerings showcased by exhibitors. Here are some of the highlights:

• Sustainable and Ethically Sourced Jewellery: With growing consumer consciousness around sustainability and ethical sourcing, buyers showed keen interest in jewellery pieces that emphasised responsible practices

• Innovative Designs and Artistic Expression: Buyers were drawn to exhibitors who presented innovative and avant-garde designs that pushed the boundaries of traditional jewellery aesthetics.

• Customisation and Personalisation: In an era where individuality reigns supreme, buyers gravitated towards exhibitors who offered customisation

18 JT2024 WINTER
AsiaWorld-Expo exhibitor George Emmanuel Christianos, Christianos Opals, Lightning Ridge, NSW. AsiaWorld-Expo exhibitor Asi Abir, Asi Abir Diamonds, Israel.

and personalisation options for their jewellery pieces.

• High-Quality Craftsmanship and Materials: Buyers placed a premium on craftsmanship and quality, seeking jewellery pieces that were meticulously crafted with attention to detail and made from the finest materials.

• Technology Integration: The integration of technology into jewellery design and manufacturing processes intrigued buyers looking for innovative and cutting-edge offerings. Exhibitors who showcased advancements such as 3D printing, CAD/CAM design and augmented reality experiences in their jewellery collections captured the interest of buyers.

At the AsiaWorld-Expo for the 2024 Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, several gem trends emerged, captivating the attention of buyers and enthusiasts alike:

• Vivid Coloured Gemstones: Vibrant and saturated coloured gemstones took centre stage at the show, with buyers showing a strong preference for stones in rich hues such as deep blues, vivid greens, fiery reds, and vibrant purples. Gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and amethysts along with exotic options like Paraiba tourmalines and tanzanites, were particularly sought after.

• Sustainable and Traceable Gemstones: With a growing emphasis on ethical sourcing and sustainability, buyers showed increased interest in gemstones with transparent supply chains and ethical certifications.

• Rare and Unique Gemstone Varieties: Buyers were drawn to rare and exotic gemstone varieties that offered uniqueness and exclusivity. Gemstones such as alexandrite, padparadscha sapphires, spinels, and demantoid garnets.

• Gemstone Cuts and Shapes: Exhibitors showcased a variety of innovative and artistic gemstone cuts and shapes, ranging from classic cuts like round brilliants and emerald cuts to more unconventional shapes such as free forms, rose cuts, and fantasy cuts.

• Gemstone Pairings and Combinations: Mixing and matching different gemstones to create striking colour combinations and complementary contrasts was a notable trend at the show. Buyers showed interest in jewellery pieces featuring creative gemstone pairings, such as combining contrasting colours like blue sapphires with yellow diamonds or pairing complementary hues like emeralds with pearls.

JT2024 WINTER 19

What was your impression of the fair?

What was your impression of the fair?

The HK fair was fairly quiet this March. The pearl hall was busy, but I was told overall it was a quiet fair.

What was the new trend or exciting new product that you thought you would bring back to Australia and NZ?

I found some great parcels this trip for Tahitian and Natural Gold South Sea pearls. We want to expand these collections, so the best value for money is when you buy in bulk, sort them and design gorgeous jewellery for each pearl.

What advice would you give to fellow wholesalers attending this fair?

Be organised and know your costings before going. I spent most of my time in the loose pearl hall and prices can be very different supplier to supplier.

- Erica Miller, Ikecho Australia Pty Ltd. u u u

Loved the fair and the fact you could pre-register. All the staff were lovely and helpful.

What was the new trend or exciting new product that you thought you would bring back to NZ?

We were excited by the different variety of stone cuts and different semi-precious stones available. You will be seeing these in our upcoming range.

What advice would you give to fellow wholesalers attending this fair?

Pre-register! It was great and saved a lot of time.

- Kirsty Shutkowski, Regal Ltd

u u u

Erica and Zane Miller, Ikecho Australia.
Feedback from members of the Australasian contingent to the fair ...
Vanessa Astley and Kirsty Shutkowski, Regal Ltd.

What was your impression of the fair?

My impression of the HKTDC Fair this year was that it was well-attended and had an energetic, buzzing atmosphere. The exhibition halls were packed with vendors showcasing an incredible breadth of product lines. Despite its massive scale, the layout is always easy to navigate and discover new products.

What was the new trend or exciting new product that you thought you would bring back to NZ?

One of the most noticeable trends I observed was the strong push back towards yellow gold. We saw beautiful new collections featuring chunky gold link chains, bold hoop earrings and statement yellow gold rings.

What advice would you give to fellow wholesalers attending this fair?

My advice to fellow wholesalers attending the HKTDC Fair would be to go in with a very specific product sourcing strategy and must-have criteria. It can be an overwhelming experience and having a clear focus on what you're looking for is crucial.

- Chris Worth, Worth & Douglas Ltd u u u

What was your impression of the fair?

After a long hiatus from the HK fair, I was pleased to see a reasonable turnout. However, I noticed that there wasn’t the same excitement or enthusiasm of the buyers as in

JT2024 WINTER 21 EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND BY AU +61 2 8543 4600 NZ +64 9 480 2211 | designaaccessories.com.au FURLA_SS24_NewZealand_TradeMagazineAd_87x217mm.indd 1 4/17/24 10:01 AM
Chris Worth and Toni Macdonald, Worth & Douglas Ltd. From left, From left, visitors Chris Worth, Adam van Sambeek, Debbie Whiting, Toni MacDonald and Melle van Sambeek.

previous years. The floors were less congested and as the days progressed, they thinned out. Hard to tell if it was a success for the exhibitors. There seemed to be a larger number of Asian exhibitors, selling similar products.

What was the new trend or exciting new product that you thought you would bring back to NZ?

One of the most successful booths was one selling ‘Do it Yourself Jewellery’ imagery products. There was a lot of interest to simplify the production of quality images for social media and website promotions.

What advice would you give to fellow wholesalers attending this fair?

The fair is fun and a good place to find inspiration, however, for good service, reliable supply and support, look locally first. The 1 for 1 exchange rate takes out any currency hassles. There’s value in knowing that a local company will look after you if there are any issues with the product.

- Adam van Sambeek, Morris and Watson. u u u

What was your impression of the fair?

The fair was a good one for us. Fairly quiet in general, but serious business.

What was the new trend or exciting new product that you thought you would bring back to NZ?

It seems this time the trends are very classic and ‘safe’. Nothing too exciting and different.

What advice would you give to fellow wholesalers attending this fair?

Tricky question that, I wish I knew what I was doing to give others advice. But be organised at the fair and don’t be afraid to experiment!

Also thanks to the valuable assistance given by HKTDC.

- Sahil Wadhwa, House of Bond


Watchmaker and jeweller Cartier sometimes enjoys a whimsical approach to its pieces. And so it is with the Santos Dumont Rewind, a red-dialled watch that tells the time in reverse.

At first glance it looks like a regular Santos Dumont, but on closer examination things aren’t quite as you expect. In the standard 10-past-10 shot you can see that the hands are flipped and everything is the wrong way around. The backwardness extends to the manual-winding movement, which must be wound, of course, in reverse.

This turnaround of time is available in a limited edition of 200 pieces, with a platinum case and red leather strap.

22 JT2024 WINTER
From left, Jeremy Keight, Jewellery World magazine with Marienne Barbara and Sahil Wadhwa, House of Bond.

Play list of jewels

Ice Cold: An Exhibition of Hip-Hop Jewelry opened this month at The American Museum of Natural History, New York. The exhibition celebrates hip-hop’s cultural influence through spectacular custom-made jewellery worn by some of its most iconic stars, as well as the 50th anniversary of hip-hop as a global phenomenon.

Ice Cold features dozens of jewellery pieces that trace the history of hip-hop from the 1980s to today, including Slick Rick’s gem-encrusted crown, the Notorious B.I.G.’s legendary gold ‘Jesus’ piece, the diamond-studded Roc-A-Fella medallion for the record label co-founded by Jay-Z, Nicki Minaj’s

sparkling ‘Barbie’ pendant and pieces from Erykah Badu, A$AP Rocky, Joey Bada$$, FERG and Tyler, the Creator, among others.

Ice Cold traces the evolution of jewellery in hip-hop over the past five decades, starting with oversized gold chains embraced by rap’s pioneers in the 1980s and moving through the 1990s, when emcees turned business moguls sported record label pendants sparkling with diamonds and platinum.

Fuelled by hip-hop’s exponential growth in the 2000s through to today,

the genre’s most influential artists have turned to multi-coloured, avant-garde jewellery with designs that reference high fashion, pop culture, rap history and more. Ice Cold presents exquisite examples of pieces from each decade and highlights hip-hop jewellery as enduring statements of individuality, empowerment and resilience in the hip-hop community and global culture at large.

WINTER 23 sales@regal.co.nz • 09 638 7378 • 7 Akiraho Street, Mt Eden, Auckland 1024
Slick Rick (Ricky Waters) and his gem encrusted crown. Photo:Janette Beckman, Nicki Minaj’s sparkling ‘Barbie’ pendant. Notorious B.I.G.’s legendary gold ‘Jesus’ piece.

All things jewellery

For a warm welcome and a fair full of happy faces, pop Melbourne on your must-do list for 2025. The Melbourne Jewellery Industry Fair 2024 (JIF) drew a crowd of industry individuals, undeterred by the soaring temperatures and eager to immerse themselves in all things jewellery.

Despite the allure of competing attractions, the JIF proves the unwavering dedication and thirst for

knowledge of the jewellery industry. With its third consecutive year of growth, the Fair continues to attract

seasoned professionals and budding talents, The JIF owes much of its success

NZ Agent: Fabuleux Vous I +64 0274 203 137 I K E C H O A U S T R A L I A www ikecho com au

to the robust support of industry associations and participants. At the Timber Yard, the JIF emerged as a pivotal gathering point for jewellery professionals showcasing the industry. With all major industry associations in attendance, the Fair exemplified a united front towards advancing the

sector’s collective interests.

The JIF witnessed an impressive turnout. This attendance highlighted the industry’s eagerness to re-engage and kickstart the year on a high. Good to see the sold-out status, many friendly faces, old and new. And beyond the showcase of innovation

and industry insights, the Melbourne JIF provided ample networking opportunities, encouraging connections that will extend far beyond that weekend,

An array of exciting unveilings and presentations took place within the lively ambience of the JIF. A highlight

JT2024 WINTER 25 ✓ Casting All Alloys Daily ✓ Waxes, Moulds & Mounts ✓ Design, 3D Printing & Finishing Your Casting Specialist Experience exceptional quality and service 1300 984 751 Email sales@chemgold.com for further information
Brendan McCreesh of O’Neils enjoys a freshly chucked oyster. BECKS’ crew, Des Ambagtsheer, Greville Ingham, Jess Blake and Jessica GonzalesCabrera. The Retail Edge team of Leon Van Magen, Kim Ridley, Emily Hayes and Malcolm Scrymgeour.

being the Women in Jewellery (WIJ) luncheon, which provided a platform for discussions on safeguarding social media accounts, reflecting the industry’s commitment to inclusivity and professional development.

Melbourne JIF participants echoed sentiments of success and satisfaction. Richard Morgan from Keda celebrated the JIF as an exceptional platform for brand exposure and product awareness. According to Richard, the event provided invaluable support and opportunities for exhibitors.

Kim Ridley from Retail Edge emphasised the significance of personal interactions fostered by the Fair, highlighting the value of building relationships beyond mere transactions. Kim appreciated the Fair’s vibrant ambience, attributing much of their success to the unique setting and engaging activities curated by the Jewellery Industry Network (JIN).

Greville Ingham from Becks emphasised the Fair’s importance as a forum for industry professionals to network and showcase their offerings. Greville also highlighted the Fair’s role in promoting their brand and expanding their product range to new audiences.

Palloys, a key sponsor of the event, brought sophistication to the fore with a Glenfiddich sommelier offering complimentary whisky tastings. The presence of Chase Shiel added a touch of luxury as he discussed the collaborative venture with Glenfiddich and Palloys in designing his latest pair of shoes infused with gold.

JIN managing director Laura Moore is excited for the future of this Melbourne event and all JIN events in the upcoming

Distributed by

26 JT2024 WINTER
Whisky tasting at Palloys. Nicholas Shadiac of Paul Shadiac Imports with Tracy Eden, Stef Grant and Justin Eden from The Gold Shop, Arrowtown

year. “We have developed even more assets for the industry in the past year that we were very excited to launch and showcase at this Melbourne Fair.

“Our new centre in Sydney will be a strong space for the industry to connect and provide a secure location for businesses to trade and jewellers to work from. JIN was also very excited to launch to the industry some new tech for jewellers to use, which we received amazing feedback on, and, as always, we gathered more insights into the current market and how we as an industry can adapt to changes to remain strong into the future.”

• Sydney JIF will be held at Carriageworks on August 17 & 18.

JT2024 WINTER 27
Brothers Michael and Ian Pitt of Cudworth. Enjoying the Melbourne heat, JIF 2024. Richard Morgan, KEDA


The thicker gold tone rectangular case and dual finishes on the mint green dial of the new Heirloom watch from Rosefield are pure sophistication.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

3 Stone Overlapping Wave Ring

9ct white gold with 3 x 0.07 (2.6mm) grade 2 diamonds

Contact Solar Jewellery by The Refinery.gold, info@solarjewellery.co.nz, Ph: 09 427 9171, solarjewellery.co.nz

Product code: LGRE-16198

Price: $2103 + GST

Wear this 2.00ct Lab Grown Diamond Ring in 18K White Gold for a more environmentally responsible piece of jewellery. Crafted with 18K white gold for a remarkable finish, this lab grown diamond features 1 beautiful VS2 diamond for ultra clarity.

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia

Contact Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Nationwide members are supported with Web & Social Media solutions including an extensive marketing resource library and tutorials.

Premium Buying Power / Complete Support 100% Independence www.nationwidejewellers.com.au

NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz JT presents a special

Coeur de Lion

Gorgeous Coeur de Lion German handmade jewellery, including the iconic GeoCubes®, offers fashion forward colour pallets, many with natural stones for a sophisticated and timeless style.

Contact: Timesupply P +614 8 8221 5580 E sales@timesupply.com.au www.timesupply.com.au

18-1088 Onyx

Stunning new ESSE ring, crafted in sterling silver, featuring a curved Onyx slab set into marcasite shoulders, perfect for day or evening wear.

Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd

the 2024 JWNZ Spring Trade Fair RNZYS,
WHAT’S HOT preview of a selection of the latest product to be showcased at
Westhaven, Auckland September 8th


Lab Grown Diamond Jewellery Made to Order as per your requirements

Contact: Satish Kathiriya M: 022 101 3235 E: satish@lagani.co.nz, www.lagani.co.nz

Boccia 3739-05 Chronograph. 10 bar water resistant, 40mm, Partial Gold-Plate. RRP $475 Contact: 03 356 3587 www.pacifictime.co.nz


The Adidas Retro Pop One celebrates our unique adidas history blending heritage design with a modern aesthetic.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

3 Stone Huggies

Shown with Tanzanite & 9ct Yellow Gold Available in a variety of combinations

Contact Solar Jewellery by The Refinery.gold, info@solarjewellery.co.nz, Ph: 09 427 9171, solarjewellery.co.nz

Nomination Italy

Fresh new designs to the W&D and ZiRO collections offering a sophisticated tri-tone look. Crafted in yellow, white, or rose gold with black zirconium, these rings feature unique patterns that cater to a variety of tastes. Perfect for adding newness to any collection.

Contact: 09 303 4666


The impeccably handcrafted Eden Earrings fuse Earth’s precious metals with gemstones of the sea to instil a sense of harmony.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent Ph: +64 27 722 6000 www.najo.com.au

The highly collectible and unique Nomination Composable Collection, made in Italy, with sterling silver, 18k gold, and 9k rose gold, generates excellent repeat business.

Contact: Timesupply P +614 8 8221 5580

E sales@timesupply.com.au www.timesupply.com.au

Gold Earrings:

View our beautiful range of new gold earrings including our stunning new huggies. Contact info@peka.co.nz www.peka.co.nz, Ph: 0800 892 432


A jewellery piece from Rosefield that simply cannot miss in your collection.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

Shield Ring

This solid mens shield ring has many variations with 4 different shield shapes and single or 2 tone material choices.

Contact The Refinery.gold info@therefinery.gold, Ph: 021 0293 4546, www.therefinery.gold


Geometry guides this fabulously contemporary timepiece from Furla, with a sophisticated rectangular leather-wrapped case with soft corners crafted in rose goldtone steel for a feminine flair.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

Bathe your hand in an aura of positivity with our symbolic Aura Ring collection.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent Ph: +64 27 722 6000 www.najo.com.au

5 Stone Straight Wave Ring shown here with 5x 3.5mm Amethysts in 9ct Yellow Gold

Available in many variations

Contact Solar Jewellery by The Refinery.gold, info@solarjewellery.co.nz, Ph: 09 427 9171, solarjewellery.co.nz

Paperclip Chain:

Explore NZ’s largest selection of STG, 9ct/18ct Gold and platinum chain featuring the stunning paperclip range!

Contact info@peka.co.nz www.peka.co.nz, Ph: 0800 892 432


The iconic Furla Arch is accented by sleek golden stripes, and the Furla name engraved on the interior elevates this bangle from basic to brilliant.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au


An iconic and bold design handmade in Spain. If you are looking for truly unique statement jewellery with organic styling, UNOde50 delivers.

Contact: Timesupply P +614 8 8221 5580

E sales@timesupply.com.au www.timesupply.com.au

Maserati Sfida Chronograph Watch. R8871640001

44mm yellow gold PVD case, 100mm water resistant, luminous hands, screw down crown and case back, silicone strap. (NZ RRP $549)

Contact: West End Collection, John Rose, Mob +61 416 087 880 john@westendcollection.com.au www.westendcollection.com.au

Sif Jakobs

Multi-award winning Danish jewellery brand

Sif Jakobs offers high quality, sophisticated designs crafted from sterling silver, with a strong International fan base, including celebrities such as Katy Perry and Lady Gaga.

Contact: Timesupply P +614 8 8221 5580

E sales@timesupply.com.au www.timesupply.com.au



Our legendary durability comes to life with a modern analog watch that’s expertly built to take a licking and keep on ticking.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au


The soft metallic hues of our Tumbaga Bangles will always make a sophisticated statement. Handmade by our renowned silversmiths in Taxco, Mexico.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent Ph: +64 27 722 6000 www.najo.com.au

Georgini Mirage Collection Augusta Earrings. IE1167W

Set with floating stones giving the piece a feeling of weightlessness, mirroring the alluring mystique of a Mirage. (NZ RRP $99)

Contact: Melinda Carey, Mob +61 451 531 662 melinda@westendcollection.com.au www.georgini.com.au

18-1077 Citrine

Warm golden tones of Citrine with black enamel shoulder accents, crafted in sterling silver and bead set with top grade Swarovski marcasites. This beautiful ESSE ring is a ‘head and shoulders’ winner!

Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd

NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz


Lab Grown Diamond Jewellery

Contact us to choose from our current stock, or to place your bespoke order.

Contact: Satish Kathiriya M: 022 101 3235 E: satish@lagani.co.nz, www.lagani.co.nz

Qudo is an exciting range, offering colourful, stylish tops that can be added to rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings, and taps into the global trend for personalisable jewellery, encouraging repeat customers.

Contact: Timesupply P +614 8 8221 5580 E sales@timesupply.com.au www.timesupply.com.au


Elevate your wristwear to stellar heights with the Ted Baker Fitzrovia Constellation collection.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

Nationwide offer a FREE business health check & exclusive Retail Jewellery Management Course. Ongoing mentoring & support. Premium Buying Power / Complete Support 100% Independence www.nationwidejewellers.com.au

Rochet HA152 Rock, 15mm IP Gold Steel and Tiger Eyes. RRP $139

Contact: 03 356 3587 www.pacifictime.co.nz



Lab Grown Diamond Jewellery

Contact us with your lab grown diamond jewellery design to delivery requirements.

Contact: Satish Kathiriya M: 022 101 3235 E: satish@lagani.co.nz, www.lagani.co.nz

18-1063 Garnet

Big, bold and beautiful. Another ESSE eyecatching ring, handcrafted in sterling silver, featuring garnets and bows and top grade Swarovski marcasites.

Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd

NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115

E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

“We understand that you work for yourself. With Nationwide and 350+ retail members there is no need to work by yourself.”

Premium Buying Power / Complete Support 100% Independence www.nationwidejewellers.com.au


Function not at the sacrifice of fashionability. This Maxum tide watch understands that timing is everything when it comes to the ocean.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

Rochet Zen 8mm Tiger Eyes and Rhodochrosite. RRP $85

Contact: 03 356 3587 www.pacifictime.co.nz

Crossover Ring

Shown with golden diamonds and tanzanite this ring is available different stone combinations and either single or 2 tone gold

Contact The Refinery.gold info@therefinery.gold, Ph: 021 0293 4546, www.therefinery.gold

Shield Ring

This solid men’s shield ring has many variations with 4 different shield shapes and single or 2 tone material choices.

Contact The Refinery.gold info@therefinery.gold, Ph: 021 0293 4546, www.therefinery.gold


Turn every moment into an unforgettable experience, featuring a gunmetal tone 44mm case, military green dial and brown leather strap this timepiece is crafted to take on any adventure.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

Pearl Earrings:

Alongside our huge range of pearls we have some beautiful new drop earrings that are proving to be very popular.

Contact info@peka.co.nz www.peka.co.nz, Ph: 0800 892 432

Contemporary heritage showcased

Jointly organised by the HKTDC, the Hong Kong Jewellers’ & Goldsmiths’ Association, Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association, Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association and the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, China, the 25th Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition, held in conjunction with HKTDC Hong Kong Jewellery Show, aimed to discover industry talents, elevate Hong Kong design excellence and promote exquisite jewellery collections designed and manufactured in Hong Kong to international buyers.

In line with the Contemporary Heritage theme, competition participants combined traditional craftsmanship with modern designs to create fashionable jewellery which embodied the significance of craftsmanship across generations and echoed the twin jewellery shows' theme this year, Be Part of the Splendid Legacy.

A panel of six jewellery and design sector professionals evaluated both Open Group and Student Group entries based on creativity and innovation, aesthetics, craftsmanship, wearability and topic relevance. Marketability was a sixth criterion for the Open Group.

One of the three Open Group Best of Show Awards went to Swan Chung for Kid IT Bag (Category: Bracelet/ Necklace). Ms Chung received a coin purse from her grandfather when she was a child, inspiring her to incorporate the double-clasp concept it into her design. She wished all “grown-up kids” could own beloved treasures forever to pass on the love and memories.

Another Best of Show Award winner was Joanna Shum who used gold, gemstones, diamonds and enamel to recreate Hong Kong’s vibrant neon-lit street views with The Colour of the Neon Sign (Category: Pendant/ Brooch), hoping to preserve this unique visual art permanently.

Pre- Fair


Get Together

Saturday, September 7th, 6pm to 8pm

Cowboy dinner with a house wine or beer

chili con carne / beef brisket / rice

Nachos, sour cream, salsa, guacamole

RNZYS Quarterdeck, $35.00 per person including entertainment and line dancing

Contact Craig Anderson for tickets, info@jwnz.co.nz

Presales only no door sales

JT2024 WINTER 33

Chan Hoi-yi also won Best of Show with Born of Blue (Category: Pendant/ Brooch), which weaves the symmetrical Chinese knot feature and tassels into a blue, wavy design, perfectly embodying traditional art which goes beyond boundaries and exemplifies the design excellence of the modern generation.

Open to students of institutions registered in Hong Kong, the Student Group category aims to inspire young design talents to join the jewellery design profession. The top three awards went to Hong Kong Design Institute students this year.

Siu Wing-ki was Student Group Champion with Flame Dance Blessing (Category: Bracelet/ Necklace). She used a pearl to emulate the dragon ball guiding fire-dragon dancers and 18ct gold threads to intricately recreate burning incense sticks, symbolising luck and blessing, on the fire dragon’s body.

Cheung Hoi-lam won the Student Group First Runner-up and Second Runner-Up with two entries: Lion’s Rhythm with Bamboo (Category: Bracelet/ Necklace) and Lion’s Echo of Tradition (Category: Earrings), both with a liondance concept. Guangdong Lion Dance is listed as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage and Ms Cheung used green gems to bring eyes of the lion to life for the Cai Qing ritual, bringing prosperity. Lion’s Rhythm with Bamboo added the bamboo, traditionally symbolising the virtues of a nobleman.

The Craftsmanship and Technology Award, selected from Open Group and Student Group entries, went to Tse Ka-wing (Category: Ring) for Dance With the Fire Dragon, which presents the delicate features of a fire dragon (including the dragon bone and incense sticks), using 18ct gold, diamonds and semi-precious stones.


We’re all ears…

Earlobes are a natural place to enhance with ornamentation, humans have been doing so since before the beginning of recorded history. Many civilizations throughout time have used earrings to denote cultural identity and tribal affiliation, or to indicate status.

But most of the time, earrings have been popular because of their decorative function. As earrings sit near the face, where most of us look while speaking to someone, they're an instant

Hand crafted locally…

bench mark of someone's sense of style, rank or wealth.

Following we feature the work of local and international jewellers who have given lobes some love, crafting

earrings, ear cuffs, studs, hoops, ear climbers and shoulder grazers to complement faces and accentuate outfit choices.

Platinum and 18ct yellow gold - 7.84cts (total), opals - 0.36cts (total) and diamonds E-F, SI1. - Lucas Ebbeke, Ebbeke & Co Jewellers, Auckland ‘Spiral dance’ - Teal sapphire and 9ct yellow gold earrings. - Rob Wright, Ringcraft Moana Jewellers, Oakura, Taranaki. For a client who had been given one opal for her birthday. 18ct yellow gold, platinum, black opal and diamonds. - Tony Williams, Tony Williams Goldsmith, Dunedin

Rose-cut kyanite and emerald bezelset earrings made with sterling silver, emphasising the imperfect beauty of the ocean's underwater world.

- Jo-Ann French, JIRBNZ Apprentice of the Year 2023, Jewellery by Maree, Whangarei.

Harakeke earrings featuring two hand carved black jade twist profile drops set with eight bezel-set brilliant cut diamonds, all handmade. The jade colour resembles dried Harakeke seed pods. The whole unit hangs from handmake ear-hooks that have a special ball joint connection, meaning the whole earring can spin around when worn and showcasing all the diamonds at the same time.

- Ian Douglas, The Village Goldsmith, Wellington

Ebony (salvaged from a piano damaged in the Christchurch earthquake!), with inlaid silver and freshwater pearl.

- Mieke van Dam, Mieke van Dam Contemporary Jewellery, Nelson,


These earrings have been delicately crafted firstly in jewellers wax, then each wax has been moulded and cast in glass, with fine gold applied overtop and fired once more. The Chrysalis are then finished with little caps of 18ct yellow gold, suspended from blackened twigs crafted in sterling silver.

- Steph Lusted, Steph Lusted Jewellery & Objets d'Art, Wellington

36 JT2024 WINTER
Honeybee earrings in 14ct yellow gold platinum with diamonds and hand-shaped chrome tourmaline. - Les Riddell, Objets of Art Ltd, Cromwell. Amethyst earrings in yellow gold. - Brian Barrett, BHB Designs Ltd., Wellington 18ct gold, sterling silver, copper, iron and rubber. - Juerg P. Muff, Orbit Jewellery, Queenstown Flower patch of studs in sterling silver and tumbaga (10% gold, 90% copper). - Les Riddell, Objets of Art Ltd, Cromwell 18ct yellow gold with orange cabochon sapphires. - Lynaire Kibblewhite, Lynaire Kibblewhite Goldsmith, Hamilton
JT2024 WINTER 37 Also available in 2-tone, PVD plated or stainless steel. Full bracelet or leather strap. e. sales@olympicwatch.com FEELING BLUE? 29770 Stainless steel case Genuine leather strap Raised index dial & date $279 From international collections…
Simone Jewels ‘Tattoo Beautiful Life’ earrings in black gold tanzanite and diamond. Garrard ‘Wings Rising’ lapis lazuli and diamond earrings. Emerald and ebony wood earrings by Antonia Miletto from Fred Leighton. Cultus ”Artem Ammil’ earrings in gold, quartz and diamonds. Jessica McCormack’s earcuff in gold and diamond. Carved orange, diamond and titanium earrings from Neha Dani.

Goodbye Peachtree Road

Christie’s New York auction house achieved more than double the low estimate of US$10 million for The Collection of Sir Elton John: Goodbye Peachtree Road, a series of live and online sales comprising more than 900 objects celebrating Elton John’s discerning eye for collecting and the impact the city of Atlanta had on his life.

In total the collection, which included photographs, artwork, furniture, clothing, jewellery and watches realised US$20,537,842.

More than 450,000 collectors and fans browsed the sales online in the weeks leading up to the auctions. Christie's livestream auction attracted

nearly 1 million views from around the globe.

Tash Perrin, Deputy Chairman, Christie’s Americas, said: “Collaborating with Elton John and David Furnish to steward the collection offered in Goodbye Peachtree Road was a truly memorable experience. The enthusiasm

A Cartier 18ct yellow gold sapphire ring signed Cartier sold for US$132,300, estimate: US$50,000-US$80,000,

Lange & Söhne, white gold and diamond-set 'saxonia' with date, sold for US$32,760, estimate: US$15,000.

of Elton’s fans was equally memorable, especially the first client on the first day of viewing who had flown from Australia to view the collection. The extraordinary success of the sales speaks volumes for the joy and exuberance of his eye and Elton John's lasting impact on collectors and fans alike.”

& Francis

sold for US$13,860, estimate: $US3,000.

Estimated to sell for US$7,000, these Oscar Heyman & Brothers platinum, ruby,


38 JT2024 WINTER
Sir Elton John, pictured hosting his 2024 AIDS Foundation Oscar Party gala, while wearing a Chopard high jewellery bird brooch with a feathery diamond-donned tail pinned to his lapel. The auction’s headline act was a gold Rolex Daytona featuring a leopard print dial and strap with a case in diamonds and orange sapphires. It sold for US$176,400, estimate: US$40,000. Deakin aluminium rocket cufflinks sapphire and diamond American flag cufflinks garnered

How would you like your pearls, diced or sliced?

Japanese high jeweller Tasaki celebrates its 70th anniversary this year, as well as its 10th year working with Greek designer Melanie Georgacopoulos under the M/G Tasaki name.

Since studying ancient Greek jewellery-making techniques in Athens, a degree in sculpture from the Edinburgh College of Art and then a Master's degree at the Royal College of Art in London, Ms Georgacopoulos has focused on creating a bold new look for pearls. Her first collection for the Tasaki house was 'Sliced', featuring pearls cut in half, revealing a secret inner world, much like the growth rings of a tree.

Ms Georgacopoulos explains: "'Sliced' is a groundbreaking collection for fine jewellery, and I wanted to cut pearls in half to reveal the inside. At the time, some people thought slicing pearls was sacrilege, but I wanted to go beyond the preconceptions about pearls. When you cut a pearl open, you see that no two are the same and I wanted to reveal the organic nature of the pearl. There was and is so much emphasis on the perfect pearl and necklace that they can

sometimes look fake. But I want to celebrate the uniqueness of each pearl and give a contemporary approach to pearls."

Over the past ten years, 'Sliced' has become one of Tasaki’s best-selling lines. To celebrate, M/G Tasaki presents two new variants called 'Sliced Bezel' and 'Sliced Sphere'. Like all the previous 'Sliced' collections, freshwater pearls with lustrous surfaces are carefully chosen from Tasaki’s pearl farms.

In the 'Sliced Bezel' series, a gold frame enhances the lustre of the creamy white pearls and focuses the eye on its enigmatic banded interior. The pearls are clustered like bubbles in groups of two, three and five. 'Sliced Sphere' drops gold spheres amongst sliced pearls, offering a fresh twist on the classic pearl jewel. Both collections feature a clasp designed to mimic the form of a sliced pearl.

40 JT2024 WINTER
The gold bezels are made one by one to perfectly frame each pearl in the M/G Tasaki Sliced Bezel collection. The collection’s sliced sphere bracelet features yellow gold spheres mixed with pearls. Sharply-cut pearls contrast against smooth gold spheres. The ear cuff can be worn on either ear. M/G Tasaki’s sliced sphere earrings mix clusters of sliced freshwater pearls with gold spheres.

A tribute to Venus

Marking the launch of Swarovski’s northern Summer 2024 collection, Swarovski global creative director Giovanna Engelbert paid tribute to the goddess Venus, taking inspiration from the science of identification, description, classification and interpretation of symbols and themes in the visual arts to turn top models Irina Shayk, Fei Fei Sun, Imaan Hammam, Karlie Kloss, and Abby Champion into bejewelled modern muses. Engelbert explained: “The Venus campaign was inspired by a dream of an underwater universe. In this campaign, I reimagined the timeless Venus archetype, exploring it through a modern interpretation that resonates with contemporary ideals of elegance, empowerment, creativity and grace, perfectly embodied by these iconic models.”

The collection dives into an underwater garden of shells, corals, seahorses, starfish and anemones, using the magic of light-catching crystals and pearls to capture the motion and motifs of the sea.

JT2024 WINTER 41 CUDWORTH.COM.AU NZ Distributer sales@fabuleuxvous.com HELEN: +64 274 203 137
Irina Shayk. Karlie Kloss. Fei Fei Sun. Abby Champion. Imaan Hammam.
JWNZ Spring Trade Fair 2024
www.jewelleryfair.co.nz Contact Debbie Whiting, 027 477 7955, E. inklink@xtra.co.nz or Craig Anderson 021 596 988, E. info@jwnz.co.nz Sunday 8th September
to 4.30pm Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron Westhaven, Auckland Twelve exciting new exhibitors in two new rooms. Make a weekend of it in Auckland. Get your tickets for the Saturday Western Style Get together dinner at the RNZYS 6pm to 8pm. Arrive early on Sunday and get a free barista coffee, fresh muffin and a pastry. Register to visit now www.jewelleryfair.co.nz

Lost or stolen

Headquartered in London, The Watch Register, which holds the world’s largest and most established international database of lost and stolen watches, has seen a 236% increase in the number of watches with unique serial numbers added to its global database over the last 12 months.

The 10-year anniversary report from The Watch Register, the global watch crime prevention database that was established 10 years ago, reveals that the total value of missing or stolen watches (more than 100,000), currently registered on its global database amounts to around £1.5 billion.

The report documents the evolution of the global database of lost and stolen watches and discusses the obstacles that need to be overcome in the fight against watch crime. One of the key challenges recognised in the report is the proliferation of fragmented watch registration database services which cause confusion and dilute data archives, reducing the chances of returning a match for a watch that has been lost or stolen.

In an effort to tackle the escalation in luxury watch crime and to disrupt the global trade in stolen watches, the report highlights the need for increased collaboration from all stakeholders, including insurers, auction houses, watch dealers, manufacturers and law enforcement agencies, to support a centralised global database for the registration of lost and stolen timepieces. One recognised, single point of registration would enable a user to trade in confidence.

Katya Hills, Managing Director at The Watch Register said: “From our parent company the Art Loss Register’s 30 years’ experience in protecting the trade and improving standards in the art world, we know how important it is to provide the market with a single due diligence database that is recognised industry-wide across the globe to identify lost or stolen works of art.

“The issue of watch crime is a growing public concern which is impacting consumer confidence. A crowded and fragmented market with multiple registration sites is unhelpful. It significantly increases the chances of

a stolen watch not being picked up, as a trader may search a different database to the one on which a stolen watch was registered. It also causes confusion amongst traders over which platform to use, which can make them reluctant to use any database at all. These are just some of the challenges highlighted in our report, which recommends industry-wide support for one international searchable database that reduces the liquidity of a stolen watch.

“Alongside the sophisticated search algorithms of our global database that help with the practical identification of a watch serial number, we employ an experienced investigative team who has the necessary cross-border negotiation skills to reunite a watch with its legal owner once a match has been made.”

• The Watch Register actively searches for lost and stolen watches on the global pre-owned market until they are recovered. The database is used by watch dealers, jewellers, pawnbrokers and auction houses to identify solen watches prior to transactions. From the moment a stolen watch is located, The Watch Register’s specialist recoveries team steps in to secure the watch and remove it from circulation. The Watch Register finds four lost and stolen watches per day on average. Fifty per cent of watches it finds are located within a year of the theft and 35% within six months.

JT2024 WINTER 43

Five of the best

Diamond rings are always included in the most expensive jewellery sold at Sotheby's auction house, with coloured diamond rings topping the charts year after year. In 2023 Sotheby's sold more than 25 diamond rings priced over US$1m, for a total value of over US$130 million. The most expensive diamond rings were, of course, the rarest diamonds, including fancy vivid pink and fancy vivid blue diamond rings.

In first place was the Eternal Pink Diamond Ring which sold for US$34.8 million. The Eternal Pink is a Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond weighing 10.57cts. The diamond was determined to be Type IIa, a letter from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) attesting to the rarity and intense degree of saturation of the diamond and a GIA monograph detailing the mining, cutting and grading of the diamond and describing it as "a stunning specimen; one of nature's great wonders transformed through artistry and ingenuity."

Of the great storied diamonds of history, only a few have been pink, and these have always been highly treasured. The Agra, the Regent, the Williamson Pink and the Darya-iNoor were among the most prized possessions of great rulers. The GIA’s monograph on the Eternal Pink diamond noted that its rarity is “difficult to overstate”.

Pink diamonds have always been scarce, but the recent closure of the Argyle mine in Australia has made the future availability of newly-mined pink diamonds a matter of uncertainty. In its letter accompanying the diamond report for the Eternal Pink, the GIA stated, “Purplish pink diamonds with this level of saturation or intensity have typically been confined to diamonds found in the now closed Argyle mine in Australia. The contrast is that the Argyle diamonds rarely weighed more than one carat.”

The Eternal Pink was discovered in 2020 at the Damtshaa mine in Botswana, the rough weighing

23.78cts. Multi-national company Diacore cut the diamond at the company’s New York City facility over a period of six months. The resulting shape, an elegant mixed cushion-cut, optimises the stone’s astonishing colour and gives it a remarkable brilliance.

The second most expensive diamond ring sold for US$25.8 million. The fancy vivid blue diamond ring has a radiantcut fancy vivid blue diamond weighing 11.28cts. It is also embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds and diamonds of pink tint, mounted in 18ct white and pink gold. The diamond is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity and was accompanied by a GIA diamond type classification report stating that the diamond is determined to be a Type IIb diamond.

It was further accompanied by a separate monograph expressing the rarity and the characteristics of the stone, as well as a letter stating that “To say the Infinite Blue is special cannot be overstated. The odds of finding a blue diamond is of the topmost rarity. This glorious and notable diamond is an example of what can occur when nature leads the way and humankind embraces the earth’s treasures, producing a gem of spirited light performance.”

In third place, the Laguna Blu 11.16 carat diamond ring sold for US$25.7 million. The exceptional and rare fancy vivid blue diamond ring or Laguna Blu is mounted in a Bulgari setting. The centre diamond is a fancy vivid blue, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity and has a type IIb classification letter.

As one of the world’s distinguished jewellery houses, Bulgari holds a place

in history as a paragon of superb craftsmanship and style. Bulgari creations feature some of the most prestigious gemstones ever discovered and it is no wonder that Giorgio Bulgari, a connoisseur in coloured diamonds, was eager to own this stone. It was not long after its acquisition that another distinguished collector who also had an eye for diamonds of unsurpassed quality purchased this diamond as a ring from Bulgari and it remained in this collection until it was offered for the first time at auction.

Fourth place went to a ring featuring a fancy intense pink centre diamond weighing 21.94cts with fancy deep greyish blue diamond shoulders weighing 0.51 and 0.46 carat and a mount enhanced with brilliant-cut diamonds. The centre diamond is Fancy Intense Pink, Natural Colour, VVS2 Clarity. The side diamonds weighing 0.51 and 0.46 carat, are Fancy Deep Greyish Blue, Natural Colour, VS2 and SI1 Clarity. The ring garnered US$11.8m.

Number five, at US$6.4m, was a diamond ring set with a round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy vivid purplish pink diamond weighing 5.01cts. The seamless mount set with fancy-shaped diamonds is further enhanced with brilliant-cut diamonds. The centre diamond is Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink, Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity. The remaining diamonds stated to weigh a total of approximately 2.90 carats, on average D-F colour, VVS-VS clarity.

44 JT2024 WINTER
place Second place Third place Fourth place

Gems rediscovered

Gems were the picture book of the ancient Mediterranean world. Depicting deities, famous individuals, animals, objects and scenes from myth or daily life, these small artworks have made a significant impression throughout history.

Classical gems have been highly prized by collectors from the Renaissance onwards, but never more so than in 18thcentury Europe. Collected by royalty, aristocrats, artists and antiquarians, their designs reflect and serve as a record of personal tastes and aesthetic preferences. Yet, their popularity meant they were widely reproduced and faked. Distinguishing between the two is still contentious.

Used as seals, worn as jewellery, or collected as objects of beauty in their own right, these miniature designs required phenomenal skill to carve and became soughtafter luxury objects and status symbols.

Some of these objects have had a more difficult recent history. In August 2023 the British Museum, London, announced that a number of items from its collection of engraved gems had been stolen, were missing or damaged. The Museum says it is committed to recovering all the stolen items and to preventing thefts from happening again. Hundreds, including those pictured, have already been recovered and are part of a current display, Rediscovering Gems.

JT2024 WINTER 45 Phone 03 389 9878 Email sales@finneys.co.nz www.finneys.co.nz
An ancient gem of green, white and blue banded glass showing the Roman god of wine and pleasure, Bacchus, dating from the 1st Century BC. Glass intaglio, helmeted Minerva, 1st Century BC. Ancient glass cameo with winged Cupid’s head, Roman, late 1st century BC-1st century. Modern glass cameo with bust of bearded man in profile, 18th-19th century. Glass intaglio, Jupiter as an eagle abducting Ganymede, Roman, late 1st century BC-1st century.

Wellington watchmaker Ash Wells is the first person in New Zealand to be awarded a Statement of Attainment Certificate as a Trade Certified Master Watch and Clockmaker. This follows on from the award of the title of Trade Certified Master Certificate for Manufacturing Jewellery to Helen Grubi of Berry’s Jewellers, Wellington.

It was great to have awarded the first Masters Certificate in Jewellery to Helen, but equaling fitting to also be awarding the first Masters Certificate in Watchmaking to Ash.

Ash established Capital Watch Services in 1979 and has been serving the Wellington public for more than 40 years. Twelve watchmakers have been trained at Capital Watch Services and many have taken their skills around the world.

Helen joined Berry's in 1980 to begin her apprenticeship in manufacturing jewellery under the mentorship of Paul Berry. After travelling and working as a goldsmith in England and South Africa, Helen returned home and bought Berry’s Jewellers in 1990.

Both Ash and Helen have been huge contributors to the trade, producing many highly skilled apprentices under their guidance. The passing on of skills and trade secrets from master to apprentice is a time-honoured tradition, which ensures the continuation of our trades and this should be recognised. Our Qualified Tradespersons are among the best in the world.

A Masters Trade Certificate is for someone who has fulfilled their duties as a master to an apprentice, as stated in the Master and Apprentices Act of 1865. The 1865 Act defines the term 'master' as someone who will: 'teach

the apprentice in the trade and all and everything relating to it according to the best power, skill, and knowledge under the master's command.'

The oldest copy of an apprenticeship agreement JIRBNZ holds shows the same words were used between William Maud and his apprentice James Pascoe in 1896. And despite all that has been thrown at it, the Master and Apprentice system has proven remarkably resilient over time and these words have survived 150 years. JIRBNZ feels it's our responsibility to see that they continue for another 150.

A skilled trade is one that requires an apprenticeship. We produce apprentices that are globally recognised as among the best and are well sought after as qualified tradespeople. We shouldn’t forget the importance the role of the Master plays.

Also to receive a Masters Certificate: Les Riddell - Objects of Art, Cromwell;

Andrew Linn - Artisan Manufacturing Jewellers, Tauranga; Steve CroutJubilee Jewellers, Wellington; Alistair Saywell, GMB, Wellington; Brian Barrett - BHB Design, Wellington and Craig Anderson, Christchurch.

Information on how to apply for a Masters Trade certification can be found at www.jirbnz.org.nz, or request by direct email: info@jirbnz.org.nz.

– Grant Harrison

Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

M: 027 693 0001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz W: www.jirbnz.org.nz

46 JT2024 WINTER Sponsors 2024 Puri Panekiretanga – Keeping Standards High Registration Board of New Zealand Jewellery Industry 2024
Ash Wells receives his certificate from Grant Harrison at a presentation ceremony in Wellington.

It is very disheartening to see an increased number of jewellers being robbed again, more brazen then ever and a real worry for industry members. It is impossible to predict when or where these are likely to occur and without sounding like a broken record, we can only reiterate to all retailers, Prepare, Plan and Protect your staff, yourselves and your business.

It will be a sad day in New Zealand when we have to install a locked door/ buzz in policy but unfortunately, in my view, it is getting to the point when it is going to be a necessity for survival. For anyone who travels overseas, you will know this is already ‘the norm’ to access jewellery stores in many countries.

Questions that need some serious attention are: Where does all this stolen jewellery go? Is it being sold in pubs? Is

it being melted down? Who is buying this jewellery? When and IF the culprits are apprehended, why aren’t the sentences harsher? I have no answers (not that could be published), but our thoughts go out to all affected by these awful crimes.

On a more positive note, the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair on September 8 will be here before we know. It is already a sold out event, thanks to the hard work of our Trade Fair manager, Debbie Whiting. Lots of new companies will be exhibiting, so time to start looking out for some cheap Grab-A-Seat airfares and hotel deals. There will another fun get-together on the Saturday evening prior to the Fair on the Sunday, so get ready to ‘party’.

Please feel free to contact me at any time.

Susi Chinnery-Brown, JWNZ President 021 751 115 susi@twentyfive7.co.nz


I get the impression that most goldsmiths are finding things a bit tough in the current climate. There are many factors at play, including economic uncertainty, rising gold prices and the flood of cheap imported products.

There are people who still search out a goldsmith when wanting a special, personalised piece to be crafted, but the challenge is to attract those clients to the right person for the job. The Goldsmiths Guild needs a much higher public profile, but simply doesn’t have the funds to advertise. It is the members themselves who need to push the relevance and importance of the Guild. Customers need to know that when they discuss their requirements with a Guild member they are dealing with a trained and qualified goldsmith. I have noticed a trend towards many

untrained, unqualified people calling themselves jeweller, with many selfappointed qualifications being claimed. Some call themselves Master Jewellers! Where did that come from?

Thankfully we have an industryrecognised organisation (JIRBNZ) that is responsible for qualifications and certificates. We are now seeing the introduction of ‘Master’ certificates being presented to deserving recipients - those who have attained the necessary standard as laid down by the rules of the industry body. Helen Grubi was the first to receive her certificate for jewellery and Ash Wells received his for watchmaking. I was fortunate to be there for Ash Wells in my role as photographer. I’m looking forward to seeing (and photographing) future presentations.

- Brian Barrett, GGNZ Chairman Tel: 04 476 4764, 021 661 060, brian@bhbdesigns.co.nz Brian Barrett.

JT2024 WINTER 47
Susi Chinnery-Brown and Joshua Sharp, President of the JAA, at the 2024 Jewellery Industry Fair in Melbourne.

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc.


Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication.

JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry.

Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.

Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.

Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy.



ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking.

ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.

Crombie Lockwood Insurance Brokers - Business, Personal and Travel insurances.

CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.

EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions.

Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales.

Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions.

Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables.

Vodafone - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband

Vodafone - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers


Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

- Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training.


Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development.

48 JT2024 WINTER
Busines s & Pers onal Banking Merchant Facilities
Telecommunication Services


Thank you to those members who have paid their annual subscription. Membership subscriptions allow the JWNZ to maintain our existing benefits and initiatives. Your continuing support of the JWNZ, NZ’s largest industry specific jewellery and watch organisation is greatly appreciated. If your contact detail, email, or website addresses have changed please advise Craig Anderson, JWNZ Executive Secretary, so we can maintain our databases and mailing lists.


With the success of our 2023 Spring Trade Fair the JWNZ will continue the event at the same venue on Sunday 8 September at the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron, 181 Westhaven Drive, Westhaven Marina, Auckland. Additional exhibition space has been negotiated and we will have at least 10 more exhibitors than in 2023 showcasing their products and services. We are looking forward to another successful event.

An early evening get together and dinner with a Western theme will take place at the Squadron on Saturday the 7th , from 6pm-8pm. Contact info@jwnz.co.nz for tickets.

The JWNZ greatly appreciates the continuing support of our 2024 Trade Fair sponsors; Star Gems & Jewellery,

Landau Jewellery (Christchurch), Pacific Time Industries, Morris and Watson and PEKA and exhibitors.

There are several hotels close to the venue and parking is available, a short walk from the venue.

Industry members are invited to register online to visit the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair 2024 at www.jewelleryfair. co.nz


The JWNZ National Council will meet prior to the JWNZ Annual General Meeting on Saturday 7 September at the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron, 181 Westhaven Drive, Westhaven Marina, Auckland. The date and venue, meeting room will be advised as soon as confirmed.


The upcoming issues of JT 2024, Jewellery Time magazine, are available as an e-magazine one month after the publishing and posting of the printed version. JT 2024 is the focal point for JWNZ member communication. Keep yourself informed as the magazine contains information such as events, JWNZ reports and editorial, business, news and industry updates.


The ongoing issue of these events and the effects on members and industry


The family of Michael Schumacher, the seven-time Formula 1 Champion who has not been seen since a near-fatal skiing accident in December 2013, have put eight of his watches up for auction at Christies flagship sale later this month.

Two star pieces are a F.P Journe ‘Vagabondage’, featuring a platinum case and a personalised dial finished in ‘Ferrari red’ with the marque’s prancing horse shield at the nine o’clock position and a facsimile of Schumacher’s race helmet at three.

The other is a white gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak chronograph with the image of Schumacher’s race helmet forming the background of the 12-hour sub dial at nine o’clock, while the Ferrari prancing horse symbol appears on the 60-second sub at six o’clock.

Christie’s European watch head Remi Guillemin says he was in discussion with Schumacher’s family for two years regarding the watches and that they decided to sell in order to make them available to collectors, F1 enthusiasts and fans of the German driver.

participants is extremely concerning. Both business owners and employees feel the brunt of these incidents, which often has impacted on their ability to carry out their normal business, as well as their staff members, some of whom are suffering from the trauma of these events. The JWNZ is extremely disappointed that approaches to the previous Labour Government received no response. However, the JWNZ National Office is currently in contact with the NZ Police in relation to recent events.

JWNZ Inc. National Office

Craig Anderson

JWNZ Executive Secretary T 021 59 69 88

E info@jwnz.co.nz

Encircling the Vagabondage dial are seven FIA globe emblems, each representing one of the star’s seven F1 driver’s World Championship victories, (the last five of which Schumacher achieved consecutively between 2000 and 2004 while driving for Ferrari).

JT2024 WINTER 49
Craig Anderson.



Dive into the trendsetting fusion of style and sustainability with the adidas Retro Wave Two watch, where retro aesthetics meet modern sustainable-innovation. Crafted with a sustainable mindset, this timepiece features 37mm white eco-ceramic case with a corresponding white dial and a stunning white bio-resin strap providing a comfortable fit and sporty aesthetic. AOSY24030. NZ$249.95.

Sweet and dainty as a petit four, this Furla Arco Chain is accessorising at its most refined. The 25mm case in a polished rose gold tone offers high visibility with four rose gold-toned dot indices. This timepiece is enriched by a white mother-of-pearl dial and the signature link attachment with a slim band of premium leather. WW00015019L3. NZ$329.

Oh, so elegant and feminine, the Tessye collection from Ted Baker is a sure way to add a chic touch to every outfit. A petite 17mm rose gold tone rectangle case with a rose gold tone dial and crystal detailing is cleverly linked to a rose gold tone stainless steel chain, adding a feminine touch to your wrist. Now available with packaging made from 100% sustainable sources. BKPTTS406. NZ$355.

Effortlessly chic, this stunning new watch from GUESS features a 24mm rectangular champagne dial on a polished gold tone jewellery inspired bracelet for ultimate comfort and style. GW0668L2. NZ$399.95.

A true GUESS icon, these super light 60mm gold tone hoops featuring our iconic triangle shape. Pair them with your favourite GUESS watch to elevate any look. JUBE04192JWYGT. NZ$129.95.

This necklace from GUESS exudes fierce masculinity. The gold tone 18mm chain necklace is coupled with a gold lion coin on a black background is sure to make a bold statement. JUMN04000JWYGBKT. NZ$139.95.

Roar across the finish line with our high-performing Q Timex® Chronograph. Inspired by the original motoring watches that graced the tracks of Europe’s most iconic races, this timepiece celebrates the endurance of our legendary 1970s Q Timex. An ultra-precise chronograph movement and tachymeter bezel recreate the finesse and function of a true racing watch, allowing you to determine elapsed time and average speed like the greatest daredevils in motorsports. Contrasting sub-dials, a date feature, hand-applied dimensional indices, and an updated Q Timex logo stand beautifully against a midnight dial, while a stainless-steel crown and brushed and polished 40mm stainless-steel case bring dynamism and durability to its retro construction. Infinitely wearable, it presents with a sleek stainless-steel bracelet. TW2W51600. NZ$499.95.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 4802211, customer.service@designaaccessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

50 JT2024 WINTER


Beautiful new ESSE drop earrings, crafted in sterling silver, featuring green agate, top grade Swarovski marcasites and black enamel accents ( 43-353 ) and a gorgeous matching ring (18-1086). Pendant also available: (72-825).

Contact: AM Imports Ltd. NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 or E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz


Introducing the Luka necklace from Ikecho, our latest treasure. Crafted from sterling silver, this exquisite piece showcases a stunning generous white Edison pearl, elegantly poised in a fixed centred position on a stylish paperclip chain. Elevate your style with its refined simplicity and timeless allure. IP318NSS.

Level your look with our sterling silver ring, showcasing three bands. The central band gracefully tapers towards a radiant white button freshwater pearl, accentuated by sparkling cubic zirconias, an exquisite blend of sophistication and elegance. IPRS54.

Introducing our Frances earrings, a generous expression of elegance and individuality. These sterling silver organic shape hoop studs feature a sizable white baroque pearl at their centre, making a striking statement of refined beauty. IP320ESS.

Contact: Ikecho Australia, Ph 61 2 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.com.au, www.ikecho.com.au


Embrace a bold new you with the Sporty Bulova Ladies’ automatic Marine Star. Designed with thoughtful engineering to suit diverse and modern women's styles, the Marine Star collection commands attention. With lustrous open-aperture dials, premium 24-jewel slim movements offering a 42-hour power reserve and water resistance up to 100m these watches cater to your everyday needs. Their versatile and distinctive designs seamlessly transition from day to night and business to leisure.

Contact: Citizen Watches New Zealand, Scott Powell, M +64 21508019, www.citizenwatches.com.au

JT2024 WINTER 51
96L324 96L325 96L326 97P171 98L317



Nina’s Jewellery’s launches its first wholesale collections in almost 50 years this season with two stunning natural coloured diamond collections. Evia, Polaris and Ostara all headline their Argyle pink and blue diamond collection: Rosé is inspired by their long history as Argyle Select Ateliers.

Spectrum, Nina's Jewellery's second specialty range, showcases ethically sourced, natural, coloured diamonds from all over the world, with some pieces featuring diamonds from up to five countries. This stunning on-trend collection showcases Nina’s Jewellery’s unique abilities as coloured diamond specialists, with each piece featuring hand-selected and hand-matched stones for optimal contrast.

One of Nina's customers most loved pieces, the Bubbles ring showcases spectacular earthy colour on a grand scale. Featuring four natural champagne diamonds and a single white for sharp colour contrast, this decadent dress ring is also available with Argyle pink diamonds and even a rainbow combination of orange, green, yellow and champagne. This bubbly beauty has gone on to inspire it's own range - explore the Effervescence collection by contacting wholesale@ninas.co.

Contact: wholesale@ninas.co, www.ninasjewellery.com.au


A modern and sleek take on the classics, our Tantalum rings are hypoallergenic and highly resistant to tarnish and scratches – perfect for today’s busy lifestyle.

Spectrum Signets - A new take on the classic signet ring. These bold statements feature hard wearing, highly polished ceramic and are available in a range of colours.

Australian Beauty. Our sapphire and diamond rings embody the unique beauty of Australia’s natural treasures.

Visit BECKS at the upcoming 2024 JWNZ Spring Trade Fair to see our new products and chat about your specific needs.

Contact: BECKS GROUP AUSTRALIA, + 61 08 8440 3369, +61 4072 71298, MichaelGrant@becksgroup.au, www.becksgroup.au

52 JT2024 WINTER
Ostara 0101280 Evia 0201518 Polaris 2800613 Stellar 2800687 Carousel 0101184 Aurelia 0201510


641-91 Polished stainless steel, ion plated gold and matt ion plated black ring.

641-05G Polished ion plated 14ct gold stainless steel ring.

641-86 Polished stainless steel with steel corded Beads Ring

641-87 Stainless steel ring with ion plated black corded bands

280-30 Ion plated black stainless steel tyre pattern cufflinks

384-61G Ion plated 14ct gold and black chequered inlay cross onIon plated gold curbed link chain


185-41A Ion plated gold stainless steel chain

Contact: Cudworth by Renniks. NZ agent: Helen Thompson-Carter, Ph 0274 203 137, helen@fabuleux.com, www.fabuleuxvous.com


Boccia 3667-01:

Pure titanium, sapphire crystal, 5 Bar. Navy PU strap. RRP $360. Also available in burgundy and khaki.

Boccia 3356-01:

Pure titanium, mother of pearl dial. 10 Bar, PU strap. Also available in green and blue. RRP $313.

Boccia 3361-03:

Pure gold-plated titanium and ceramic. Sapphire crystal, 5 Bar. RRP $420.

Contact: Pacific Time Industries, Ph 03 356 3587, sales@pacifictime.co.nz, www.pacifictime.co.nz

The Wolf Ida Trunk Jewellery Box is a trunk style box with a recycled canvas exterior in luxurious muted tones and top grain leather trim and drawer pulls. The perfect blend of elegance and functionality. Product code:190041. NZD $1,555.


These Thomas Sabo medium sized hoop earrings are made of shimmery, recycled silver. With their diameter of 4cm, they attract everyone’s attention. Due to their simple, flexible design, these silver hoop earrings are easy to put on and comfortable to wear. Product code: TCR728. NZD $89.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, DGA Duraflex Group Australia, Ph + 61 2 9417 0177, NZ 027 7226 000, helen@dgau.com.au

JT2024 WINTER 53

All rethreading including lengthening & shortening

Extensive range of clasps Pearl drilling

19 Tapestry Grove, Silverstream, Upper Hutt 5019 p 04 528 9699 e info@aven.co.nz www.aven.co.nz

Contact Julie on 09-478 9950 or info@nzfindings.co.nz www.nzfindings.co.nz


Opened in 1981, after 43 years of trading in the middle of High Street, Hawera, the Unka’s are retiring and offering their well established and very profitable business for sale.

Well equipped with a wide selection of Jewellery, Watches, Clocks and Trophy stock. Also offering Jewellery, Watch and Clock repair services and Engraving. Current staff are very knowledgeable and have been in the Jewellery business (repair and sales) for many years, willing to stay on.

Located in prime main street position. Competitive lease rental. Vendors may consider selling freehold.

For more information contact Selwyn Metcalfe, ph 027 444 8863 Metcalfe Real Estate. Licenced Agent REAA2008


Come join our friendly team in our busy Auckland workshop. Position for either a fully qualified Watchmaker or Watch Technician. Full time position, all enquiries will be treated with confidence.

Very competitive remuneration

Please email: antonylow@watchworld.co.nz


Pronto Clock Company Ltd Ph 07 880 9795 info@prontoclocks.co.nz

JT2024 WINTER 55 CHAIN PEARLS FINDINGS EARRINGS PENDANTS SERVICES NZ: 0800 892 432 AU: 1800 571 963 www.peka.co.nz | info@peka.co.nz OVER 300 STYLES OF GOLD AND SILVER CHAIN HELD IN STOCK Our Clocks range from traditional to contemporary, Collectables to Grandfathers.
C o l l e c t a b l e s Lucida Calligraphy font, bold, italics CUDWORTH.COM.AU NZ Distributer sales@fabuleuxvous.com HELEN: +64 274 203 137

GEMS for Design Work & Trade repairs. Sourcing of Gems from the cutters. Hand Engraving, Setting, Sizing, trade repairs. Prompt Turn around of your Jobs.

Richard 021670145, Argosy 03 3669332 141 Holly Rd, Christchurch 8014 argosy.jewellery@gmail.com argosyjewellery.co.nz

Directory Advertising

$150.00 each for Standard Business Card size advertisement

$400.00 for 4 issues (1 year)

$300.00 each for Double Standard Business Card size advertisement

$800.00 for 4 issues (1 year)

Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland. Phone 09 - 378 1222 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: inklink@xtra.co.nz

Carl Yung Gems Ltd

Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones & Jewellery

Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available. P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland. Ph: 09-623 2078 Email: info@carlyung.com

56 JT2024 WINTER
DIRECTORY 1st Floor Gibson Sheat Centre 1 Margaret Street, Lower Hutt 0800 743 774 sales@rings.co.nz www.rings.co.nz New Zealand’s leading Safe & Vault specialists. Bullion Safes I Jewellery Safes I Cash Safes I Modular Vaults & Vault doors www.safeman.co.nz Ph: 0800 723 365


The crew at Jewellery Time would like to thank our loyal advertisers and contributors. Thirty years plus behind us now and with good support from our industry.

Future deadlines:

2024 Spring Trade Fair Special Booking and Editorial: August 2, Ad Material: August 9, Magazine Posted: August 16

2024 Summer Booking and Editorial: November 1, Ad Material: November 8, Magazine Posted: November 15

2025 Autumn Booking and Editorial: February 10, Ad Material: February 17, Magazine Posted: February 24

2025 Winter Booking and Editorial: May 2, Ad Material: May 9, Magazine Posted: May 16 Give us a call to discuss how we can help. Any support the trade can give us is welcomed. If you

2023 FURLA.COM #ITALYBYFURLA 2023 Bringing the past to the present with an iconic design from space exploration history. Limited Edition LUNAR PILOT CHRONOGRAPH 2024 Happiness Blossoms Inspired by May bells. Designed to spread happiness.
an advertisement, new products to promote, or an editorial feature suggestion, please get in touch. Debbie Whiting (advertising) and Debra Douglas (editorial) inklink@xtra.co.nz chaucer@xtra.co.nz 09 378 1222 / 0274 777 955 021 185 6846


sales@nzgem.co.nz, 0800 NZ GEM (0800 69 43 67), P +64 9 377 3855, @quasardiamondsnz, quasardiamonds.com
authority. Each
diamond is carefully selected by qualified diamond experts for complete peace of mind. Purchasing a Quasar Certified diamond is your ethical guarantee of both sustainability and exceptional quality. Natural Diamonds Sustainable High Grade Cuts 4Cs GIA Report
Diamond is New Zealand’s foremost diamond

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