JT Autumn 2024

2024 AUTUMN

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SHOWCASE JEWELLERS

2 JT2024 AUTUMN

JT2024 AUTUMN 3

Publisher/Advertising Debbie Whiting Phone: 09 378 1222 Mobile: 0274 777 955 inklink@xtra.co.nz www.jewellerytime.co.nz

Editor Debra Douglas Mobile: 021 185 6846 chaucer@xtra.co.nz

2024

Jewellers & Watchmakers 19 Edwin Drive, Trent Park, Prebbleton 7604, New Zealand Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz Digital Copies Digital copies of our previous four issues are available at www.jewellerytime.co.nz and www.jwnz.co.nz.

Terms and Conditions Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

InkLink Publications Ltd. publishes Jewellery Time on behalf of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated reserves the right at any time and without notice or liability to any party cancel, omit or alter any editorial or advertisement and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and the publisher for all damages or liabilities arising from the published material.

Copyright Reproduction rights in part or full of the contents of this magazine must be obtained with the permission of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and or the publisher.

Disclaimer The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are purely those of the authors and are not necessarily the official views of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated nor those of the publisher.

UPCOMING JT DEADLINES WINTER 2024 BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: MAY 2 AD MATERIAL: MAY 9 MAGAZINE POSTED: MAY 16 SPRING 2024 (JWNZ TRADE FAIR SPECIAL) BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: AUGUST 2 AD MATERIAL: AUGUST 9 MAGAZINE POSTED: AUGUST 16 SUMMER 2024 BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: NOVEMBER 1 AD MATERIAL: NOVEMBER 8 MAGAZINE POSTED: NOVEMBER 15 Published by InkLink Publications PO Box 46-218, Herne Bay, Auckland 1147 Design/Prepress by Rex Eade, Eade Gallery, Ph 027 286 0438, rex@eadegallery.co.nz Printed by Soar Communications Group Ltd (SCG) Registered as a magazine at the GPO, Wellington.

ISSN 1170-9960.

The official magazine of The Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

CONTENTS 6

Talkback

8

News

16

Town and Around

18

Enter the Year of the Dragon … it’s time to breathe fire

21

A princely timepiece

22

Just peachy and heartfelt

23

When lapels become canvases

24

Vicenzaoro, a trend-packed trade show

26

Gifts that keep on giving

28

Five of the best, but there could be only one winner

32

Put a ring on it

34

A cut above the rest

37

Confectionery-coloured collectables

40

De Beers takes us on safari

43

Born to rally

44

Jewellery Industry Registration Board

45

Retailers Review

46

JWNZ President’s Report

46

Watchmaker’s Institute of New Zealand

47

Goldsmiths Guild of NZ

49

JWNZ Executive Notes

50

New Products and Services Rochet brings European style to New Zealand, offering fashionable, timeless and innovative jewellery. Crafted from quality materials, elegant chic is the quintessence of the brand. Whether at work or on the beach, there is a style for every occasion. Stanford: Three khaki flat braided and round leather straps. Adjustable. Rock: 15 mm IP gold ring, tiger eyes. Zen: 8mm beads with elastic bracelet.

Contact Pacific Time: 03 356 3587 or sales@pacifictime.co.nz

Light. Strong. Elegant.

Boccia Titanium Jewellery is made from the highest quality materials. Nickel free and allergy free, titanium is not only light but nice to your skin-perfect for everyday wear.

Pacific Time stock a wide range of Boccia Titanium best-selling rings and earrings.

Wear your story, one accessory at a time.

TALKBACK Introducing Murray Brereton, managing director of Brereton Jewellers, Picton.

Where do you live and who do you share your home with?

I live in Picton with my wife Carmel and youngest son Aidan.

Tell us about your history in the jewellery trade ...

I started making jewellery when I was at Nelson College, after watching silversmith Jens Hansen. Then, while I was at Flock House, (a former agricultural and farm training school in Bulls), I would go into Palmerston North and watch Chris Irvine working at Keith Plier Jewellers.

Later, I got an apprenticeship with Guy Blazina, then transferred to Keith Plier Jewellers and finished my apprenticeship in Dunedin. I moved to Timaru and set up a trade jewellers workshop and did trade work for local jewellers for two years. I then bought Kelvin Smith’s retail shop and worked there for about 12 years.

Akaroa and the setting up of two new jeweller’s stores followed and after 17 years came a move to Picton and another new shop. I’ve been here for 10 years.

Where and when did you start Brereton Blue Pearls?

I started this adventure in Akaroa about 25 years ago when Eyris Blue Pearls showed me its product.

Murray Brereton.

PHOTO DEBBIE WHITING

The business focuses on?

We specialise in Blue Pearls and built the equipment to produce calibrated sizes.

the joy I see in customers when their work is finished.

What other ranges and services do you provide?

I have been a manufacturing jeweller for about 50 years, specialising in repair work and the manufacturing of handmade jewellery We also provide watch battery replacements.

Away from the bench, how do you relax?

Read books.

Two things that top your bucket list ...

Spend more time with my grandchildren. Build an engineering and woodworking workshop.

What are your current best-selling pieces?

Jewellery made using Blue Pearls grown in the Akaroa Harbour and Tory Channel. Over the years we have sold more than 7000 items.

What is the most adventurous thing you have ever done?

Being a member of Search and Rescue. Also doing a five-day Trans Alpine trip from the east to west coast to HariHari, where I grew up on a sheep and cattle farm.

Who make up the majority of your customers? Locals?

Tourists?

Overseas travellers, as well as returning customers who want special items repaired or new items made.

What is your most treasured possession?

My family and my workshop.

Who do you work beside?

Staff members Barbara Shannon and Andrea Larrington and Carmel, who looks after the administration side of the business.

Greatest challenge in your job?

Finding time to do what is asked of me.

Greatest indulgence?

Spending time creating new tools that make my life at the bench easier.

Best summer holiday destination ... and why Sri Lanka. Five years ago I spent a month living there with the parents of a Buddhist whose father owned four jewellery shops. Nice people and a beautiful country.

What advice would you offer to those starting out in the trade?

Learn as much as you can from experienced people. Always maintain a high standard of work. Be honest to yourself and customers. Learning is about how to fix things that go wrong.

Plans for the future?

Retire from the retail jewellery trade. I have been making jewellery for about 50 years, Hopefully someone might take over the business. Picton is busy with the building of a new ferry terminal that will keep the work force occupied for the next few years.

In another life, is there another career you would have liked to have pursued?

Not really, I enjoy bringing to life old and new jewellery and

If there was one special luxury item you would like to buy for yourself today, what would that be?

A laser welder.

6 JT2024 AUTUMN

NEWS CREATIVITY RECOGNISED

Florence Biennale Winner Stacey Whale, who works from her jewellery store in the Old Post Office at Upper Moutere, Nelson, has again received international acknowledgement.

Stacey's ‘Natural Instinct’ 18ct gold and diamond necklace, which received the prestigious 'Lorenzo il Magnifico' award for first place in jewellery art and design at the XIV Florence Biennale 2023, was featured in the exhibition,

‘Winners Showcase of the XIV Florence Biennale’, hosted at the exhibition hall of the Accademia delle Arti Del Disegno (Academy of the Arts of Drawing), in Florence in January.

“My creativity and the uniqueness of my necklace amidst such a competitive environment truly spoke volumes and was celebrated as a piece of art. The recognition means the world to me,” said Stacey.

Stacey’s winning piece.

IN A WORLD OF PURE IMAGINATION Fossil is riding on the famous purple coat tails of Willy Wonka with a range of limited edition watches and jewellery that take cues from Roald Dahl’s iconic novel and the movies it has spawned.

Willy Wonka x Fossil watches include a golden limited-edition Carraway watch with a ‘Golden Ticket’ caseback, brown dial with Wonka Bar design and

FRANCK MULLER TAKES TO THE TOWER Watch maker Franck Muller is associating his brand with one of the world’s tallest clock towers: a 450m residential skyscraper being built in Dubai with a branded clock at its apex.

“With our latest project, where architectural opulence meets timeless luxury, we bring Franck Muller’s first-ever branded residences,” said Eman Taha, CEO of London Gate,

8 JT2024 AUTUMN

which is developing the project. “With this partnership, we aim to reinstate the standards of sophistication and elegance, creating a living experience that reflects the brand values and vision of both London Gate and Franck Muller.”

Residents will move into the luxury residential project in 2026.

an extra ‘Wonka Bar’ strap.

Another piece takes inspiration from Lickable Wallpaper in the Wonka factory for its leather strap and multicoloured hours. It has a caseback carrying a quote from Mr Wonka: “We are the music makers and we are the dreamers of dreams.”

Sell with us.

Auctions Private Sales Valuations webbs.co.nz

Webb's Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories department is seeking entries for our online and live auctions of 2024.

This year we are seeking gold jewellery in various carat weights, designs and applications as market trends have shown it as increasingly popular with our client base.

We are also after diamond pieces, including pendants, earrings, bracelets, rings, and solitaires in larger sizes.

In recent auctions we have had the privilege of bringing to market significant and unique items – such as a vintage diamond tiara which achieved a $32,862.50 hammer price — and would welcome similar items of unique design and heirloom potential.

High quality timepieces from Swiss Manufacture, including vintage, antique, gold and pocket watches will attract much attention come auction day, like that of Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Tag Heuer to name a few.

Contact us today for a complimentary appraisal, we would love to hear from you.

Christine Power AJP (GIA) Head of Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories christinep@webbs.co.nz +64 27 929 5607

auckland 33a Normanby Road Mount Eden Auckland 1024 +64 9 529 5600 wellington 23 Marion Street Te Aro Wellington 6011 +64 4 555 6001

NEWS

DESIGNED FOR THE DAY

Breguet’s 2024 Valentine’s Day offering was a 28-piece limited edition Reine de Naples, which is decorated with tiny red hearts for hour markers and 66 hand-set rubies on a white mother-of-pearl dial framed by a diamond-set bezel.

The watch’s crown also has a cabochon-cut ruby and its lugs are set with pave diamonds.

Housed in a 33 x 24mm 18ct white gold egg-shaped case is Breguet’s 3Hz 586/1 self-winding movement, which has a silicon balance spring and 38-hour power reserve. The Côtes de Genève-finished movement, with its platinum oscillating weight, is presented via an open caseback.

Price was on application, but other models of the same reference typically sell for around NZ$70,500.

HAVE FAITH

Faith Jewels’ latest Masterpiece Series of unique high jewellery designs is inspired by water, fire, wind and air. The Elements series is the latest from Melbournebased designer Faith Hilda, who uses rare gemstones like Madagascan sapphires, Burmese rubies and Santa Maria blue aquamarines to balance bold personalities. Plus, her pieces contain moving springs, a rotating pin-wheel and other kinetic parts to ‘come alive’ as the wearer moves.

Faith Jewels Wave ring with a 4ct Asscher-cut Santa Maria blue aquamarine, 459 blue diamonds, 465 white diamonds and 10 royal blue sapphires, all set in ombre blue titanium.

NEW COLLECTION

EDEN

Distributed by: NAJO PTY LTD Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent M: +64 27 722 6000 E: helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Faith Jewels Rainbow ring with a central 5.02ct ovalcut indigo sapphire, plus more than 800 rubies, sapphires and tsavorites, set in rainbow-toned titanium.

10 JT2024 AUTUMN

WHEN A CLASSIC MEETS A CLASSIC Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent

Neo

M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

JT2024 AUTUMN 11

NEWS NOT TO BE MISSED

A date for your diary... Sunday September 8th. The JWNZ Spring Fair will reveal new collections, highlight the trends which are shaping the industry today and offer the latest solutions to assist businesses.

Trade fair organiser Debbie Whiting looks forward to welcoming exhibitors and visitors to the fair venue, RNZYS, Westhaven, 181 Westhaven Drive, Auckland.

“There were many very happy visitors and exhibitors at last year’s event,” said Debbie “The feedback we received was very positive. A common thread being it was the best fair ever for both sales and the renewing of industry ties.

“Our JWNZ Spring fair is boutique-sized and friendly, to be held on the water at the RNZYS, with new opening hours of 9.30am to 4.30pm. There is free parking, free muffins, free barista coffee and new exhibitors in our two additional spaces. There are ten tables still available.

“Also, for 2024 we have two $500 Air New Zealand vouchers to give away to two lucky buyers. Worth the trip to Auckland, we think so! And join us at the informal trade dinner on Saturday night, 7th September. A great opportunity to chat to old and new industry friends.”

WATCH FOR THE PRICKLES

Made in 18ct rose gold and finished in matte black, these Cacti non-sphere earrings from Mumbai-based Studio Renn are set with five carats of diamonds on the serrated edges of both the outside and inside.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS

February’s Inhorgenta dedicated 4,000 sqm to the world of weddings in honour of the German international jewellery and watch exhibition’s 50th anniversary. Hosted at the Messe München Trade Fair Centre, Wedding World featured all things bridal, including a stylised wedding chapel, 30 jewellery brands, workshops from florists and professional hair and make-up artists, as well as a patisserie and wedding attire.

ENCHANTED

Together with the European Fashion Award (FASH), Inhorgenta presented wedding attire from young fashion designers.

WHAT A MATCH

My Heavy Heart, a boudoir lamp that incorporates a large, shimmering citrine heart poised atop an 18ct gold wheelbarrow overflowing with coloured diamond flowers, was a highlight of the exhibition ‘Enchanting Imagination - The Objets d’Art of 95-year-old André Chervin and his New York atelier, Carvin French’.

Held at the New York Historical Society, the exhibition also featured the Lady Ostrich, in 18ct yellow gold, fancy yellow and black diamonds, rubies, pearls and psilomelane. When removed from the base, the ostrich can be worn as a brooch.

Tennis champion Venus Williams is getting into the fine jewellery game with the debut of Diamond Match, a collection she designed and developed in collaboration with New York City jeweller Reinstein Ross.

Earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and rings in the collection are made with 22ct peach gold and, pavé diamonds. The overall design of the 14 pieces draws inspiration from a ring Venus frequently wears during her matches. As part of this creative endeavour, Reinstein Ross has also given Williams the title of designer in residence.

12 JT2024 AUTUMN

Providing efficient, timely and quality repair and production services since 1986.

Contact us to open a trade account today.

09 414 2526 | trade.jewelleryservices.co.nz

NEWS NEW OWNERS FOR THE SOLAR BRAND

After 50 plus years in the industry Roland and Anne Plank have sold the Solar brand - all its moulds, designs and I.P. - to ‘The Refinery’ in Rotorua. The Refinery was established eight years ago by director Nick Cowley and has rapidly grown to include three full time jewellers and three front of house staff.

“We are passionate about the industry and are keen to deliver the best product and service to the clients Roland and Anne have maintained over the years,” said Nick. “All of the manufacturing and finish will be done in our workshop in Rotorua and as clients you will have access to the 2500 moulds that Roland has supplied to the industry over the years, plus our intention to bring fresh and different designs to your outlets.

“Please look to us for a huge range of diamond, coloured stone designs, gemstones, customer repair and maintenance jobbing. We would like to give special thanks to Roland and Anne to allowing us the opportunity to purchase their family business and will do our best to keep its ‘heart’ in its operation going forward.”

SPARK YOUR IMAGINATION?

Starting from the charm of ten small cabochon rubellite tourmalines to ‘sculpt’ two small matchboxes with calligraphic mastery, the imagination of German jewellery company Hemmerle, kindled by the particular colour and shape of more than 20 carats of stones, turned them into the shining heads of matchsticks.

Bronze is used to form the matchbox earrings sticks and iron, embellished on the back with white gold, acts as the usual cardboard box.

SCENT AND TIME

The unisex fine fragrance is named after the year that the Horological Society of New York was founded and its scent is inspired by smells associated with the group and watches in general.

From left, Roland and Anne Plank with The Refinery owners, Nick Cowley and Michelle and Glenn Edhouse.

- The Refinery & Solar Jewellery, 1290 Tutanekai St. Rotorua, O7 3437425, Nick@therefinery.gold

TARTAN TO GO

Watch distributor and manufacturer Zeon has launched its first Apple Watch Vivienne Westwood strap. The idea is to combine the high-tech of Apple Watch with the style of Vivienne Westwood, as it features her iconic MacAndreas Tartan design.

The strap is designed to fit the 38mm, 40mm and 41mm Apple Watches.

14 JT2024 AUTUMN

Wearing perfume is a tradition that goes back thousands of years and the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) hopes to capture that sense of history with its first signature scent, ‘1866’.

“The idea to create a fine fragrance began when we wanted to expand the offerings in our shop. We already offer classic watch accessories, but we wanted to think outside the box while still making a connection to time,” said Carolina Navarro, the Society’s deputy director.

“We took inspiration from boutique hotels,” she explains.

“When you walk into a lobby, you’re greeted by a signature scent, and we liked the idea of developing our own.”

Navarro says it took two years and a lot of research to determine the kind of fragrance to create. The result, she says, is a well-crafted scent that develops over time as the wearer experiences it, opening with notes of bergamot orange, bitter orange and alpine air.

Founded in 1866, HSNY is one of the oldest continuously operating horological societies in the world. Its members are watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, auctioneers, historians and collectors. The nonprofit group promotes the art and science of horology through education, including a robust scholarship programme.

Discover timeless elegance at Athan Wholesale Jewellers in Melbourne's iconic Manchester Unity Building. Since 1998, we've supplied Australian and New Zealand retailers with the finest Italian gold chains and accessories.

With a rich heritage in the industry, our family-run business offers a carefully curated collection of 9- and 18-carat gold pieces in diverse designs. From timeless chains to earrings and bracelets, each item is meticulously crafted in Italy.

Experience exceptional quality and service with Athan Wholesale Jewellers, where tradition meets contemporary style.

0061 3 9663 2321 INFO@ATHAN.COM.AU WWW.ATHAN.COM.AU 602/220 COLLINS ST, MELBOURNE VIC 3000

TOWN AND AROUND Featuring Kerry Phillips, owner of Country Jewel, WINTON. Tell us about your background in the jewellery industry ... when did it all begin?

My journey began when I started working for Lusty’s Jewellers. I was 21 and working at the local Post Office when Margaret and Brian offered me a position. At that time Lusty’s had two stores, one in Winton and one in Invercargill and were about to open a third store in Queenstown.

I worked in the Winton and Invercargill stores, with retail sales, customer service and stock entry as my main duties and continued to work there for 18 enjoyable years with two short maternity leave breaks with our sons.

The Winton store was eventually sold

Kerry Phillips.

PHOTO: DEBBIE WHITING

to the watchmaker Trevor McMaster in 1991, so I was full time in Invercargill from then.

When did you open Country Jewel?

Was it an existing business?

In 2002 the opportunity presented itself to purchase the Winton store and Country Jewel Jewellery Boutique began.

What services do you offer at Country Jewel. What do you specialise in?

Retail jewellery sales, watch sales and repairs and batteries, jewellery repairs, remakes and engraving services. I like to think we specialise in personal service.

As a retailer this is really important to me.

Who do you work beside? And their role in the business?

Vanessa Iddles looks after retail sales, customer service, repairs and battery fitting and our website. She is also a fabulous display artist.

A watch battery guru, Julie Pilkington oversees retail sales, customer service, repairs and is a talented photographer who takes care of our social media.

Trevor McMaster is our wonderful in-store engraver and helping hand with tricky jobs.

We understand Country Jewel is a certified Antwerp Diamond Broker and you make regular diamond buying trips to Antwerp. How do these trips benefit your customers?

The Antwerp trips have been hugely

Winton is situated on the main highway between Invercargill and Queenstown, 30kms north of Invercargill.

Motto: The Heart of Southland.

WINTON

beneficial for the store, reinforcing the integrity of our diamonds. It also creates personal experiences and a lovely connection to the purchase of a diamond/diamonds for our clients.

Often the diamonds were purchased for a special birthday or anniversary and being involved in every step of creating something beautiful is described as a ‘treat’ by our clients. Substantial savings are made for my clients buying directly from Antwerp.

How have your customers’ tastes in design and materials changed over the years?

Having been in the industry for some years now I have seen designs we first sold come back into fashion again!

Our clients like jewellery they can “live in” that fit their lifestyles. I think it’s important that when we are selling that we ask the right questions and show an interest in how the items intended to be worn. We can then suggest

Precious Gem Imports Ltd

DIAMONDS OF DISTINCTION Roger McKinnon

Joy Thavat

Freephone 0800 PGI GEM or 0800 744 436 16 JT2024 AUTUMN

suitable styles and offer sound advice to protect and increase the longevity of the jewellery, at the same purchasing pieces that our clients love.

What are your current best-selling watches and jewellery pieces?

Jewellery brands have been popular over summer: Stolen Girlfriends Club, Nomination, Karen Walker, along with sterling bangles and our two tone yellow gold and sterling bracelet collection. Watches are not huge for us currently.

Are you finding an increasing number of customers are opting to have old or unused pieces re-modelled?

Yes, remodelling is very popular. It’s an area that can be very time consuming with design and quotes but also very rewarding when we have delighted clients.

What keeps you motivated about the jewellery and watch industry?

My clients keep me positive about the jewellery industry. We get lovely comments about the store and the different stock that we have. We also hear heartwarming client stories about why they might be treating themselves.

I love suggesting to my clients that we clean their existing rings and seeing their reaction. It’s about showing them the beauty in what they already have, not only about what they might purchase.

White gold or yellow ... what will be hot this year?

Both are popular, but certainly a swing back to yellow gold.

We sell two tone jewellery Stg/9ct YG, I would love to see this area expand with our wholesalers. It creates an acceptance of wearing mixed metals

together.

How do you relax away from the business?

I enjoy spending time with my family, which includes our 16-month-old grandson who gives us great joy. I enjoy my home and creating beautiful food.

We understand you are a member of the local ambulance service ...

I have been involved with St John for 10 years as an ambulance officer, initially as a volunteer. In the past few years as a paid casual, working frontline and events. It can be challenging, rewarding and enjoyable all at the same time.

Greatest indulgence?

I love good food and wine!

What’s on your bucket list for 2024?

To stay fit and healthy, it’s the greatest gift.

Country Jewel doesn’t have a jeweller onsite, so client’s creations are outsourced to various workshops. Kerry and her staff, however, assist instore from conception to the finished item.

Matching wedding rings one in yellow gold, one in white gold, each with a .25pt centre Diamond.

Creating a stunning engagement ring in yellow gold set with a 2.00ct green tourmaline and trapezoid diamond shoulders.

Creating a new look in white gold, using one of the diamonds from a family engagement ring.

COLOURED GEMSTONES

NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIUM GEMSTONE STOCKIST P.O. Box 37597 Parnell, Auckland Phone (09) 3778 038 Email sales@preciousgem.co.nz Fax (09) 309 6807 Website www.preciousgem.co.nz JT2024 AUTUMN 17

Enter the Year of the Dragon ... it’s time to breathe fire As the annual tradition goes, a band of watchmakers has released celebratory watches to coincide with the Year of the Dragon, which began on February 10 and ends on January 28 2025.

Dragons symbolise success, fortune and growth. Historically the mythological creature has been associated with Chinese emperors, featuring on the first Chinese national flag during the Qing dynasty, making it a spiritual and cultural figure.

According to Chinese mythology, those born under the sign of the dragon are said to be, first and foremost, self-assured leaders. Their charismatic and dominant personalities make them natural CEOs, start-up founders, politicians and military commanders. A few famous individuals born under the sign of the dragon are Martin Luther King Jr., Che Guevara, Bruce Lee, Salvador Dali and John Lennon.

From Piaget, the dragon takes centre stage featuring intricate cloisonné enamelling by Anita Porchet. The blue Dragon and the Phoenix, depicted in red, pink, and orange hues, are brought to life with gold engraving. Limited to 38 pieces, the piece showcases a modern and vibrant expression of the Lunar New Year.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art - Brought to life by hand engraving, this limited edition 950 platinum watch reinterprets the technique of decoupage from China and Switzerland, thanks to the expertise of master engravers and enamellers.

From Chopard, the watch dial is a work of art depicting the dragon on Urushi lacquer, using gold powder and mother-of-pearl inlays. Handcrafted for Chopard in Japan by a world-renowned artisan specialising in the Maki-e technique, the 18ct rose gold model is limited to 88 pieces.

18 JT2024 AUTUMN

Swatch has gone all-out with a collection of five watches that celebrate the Year of the Dragon. The watches here are the Dragon in Cloud Big Bold, Dragon in Wind Pay Gent, Dragon in Waves Gent, Dragon in Motion Irony Chrono and Dragon in Gold Skin Irony.

Hamilton’s Ventura ... a triangular artistic and conceptual timepiece features an open worked dial in the shape of a dragon’s face, with burning red eyes that match the red seconds hand.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has taken the concept of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, literally by hiding the dragon on the reverse side of the piece on the Reverso Tribute Enamel Dragon. A smooth, black, Grand Feu enamel base forms an intense, pure background for the golden dragon, with the same enamel forming the basis for the primary dial.

The Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon from Hublot features a layered aesthetic inspired by the traditional art of Chinese paper cutting and designed by a celebrated paper artist, Chen Fenwan. It has a 42mm diameter tonneau case made from titanium that leads into a custom black rubber strap with a decorative dragon scale pattern.

JT2024 AUTUMN 19

EXCLU S IVE LY DIST RIBUT E D IN AU ST RA L IA A ND NEW Z E A L AN D BY

AU +61 2 8543 4600 NZ +64 9 480 2211 | designaaccessories.com.au

Ulysse Nardin highlights the skills of its metier d’art team with the creation of a dragon that prowls across the skeletonised X structure of the dial. The dragon, hand-sculpted and painted in rose gold has five claws, a form that, according to Ulysse-Nardin could only be used by the Emperor and the royal family, while the rest of the population had to use depictions of a four-legged creature. Only 88 have been made.

Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon 2024 edition depicts a rose gold dragon sculpture flying above delicate trees in an aventurine glass sky in blue or black, beneath a mother-of-pearl moon.

Corum has opted to create two designs, the Bubble 47 Dragon and Bubble 47 Dragon Eye. The Dragon 47 edition has a golden dragon emerging from a black dial, whereas the Dragon Eye zooms in to a dragon’s eye - a deep red orb with a piercing black pupil surrounded by lidded scales made from gold.

20 JT2024 AUTUMN

A princely timepiece Meet the Prince Of Brunei Skeleton Clock, an 18ct gold and rock crystal horological masterpiece boasting more than 570 carats of sapphires, rubies, diamonds, and emeralds. M.S. Rau, a New Orleans - based antique dealer is selling it for US$1.985 million.

Designed by British luxury jeweller, Asprey & Garrard, the clock stands 81cm tall and cost just US$6 million to produce.

It was commissioned by Prince Jefri Bolkiah of Brunei and owned by his brother the Sultan of Brunei, Hassanal Bolkiah.

Known for his love of luxury, Prince Jefri allegedly spent an average of US$747,000 per day on indulgences in one 10year period.

“There is no other clock like it in the world, which was the very intention of the man who commissioned it,” said Bill Rau. “At the height of oil-rich Brunei’s wealth, His Royal Highness Prince Jefri Bolkiah filled his palace with unparalleled treasures and price was no object.

“To create a clock that would exude his riches, he turned to the famed artisans of Garrard & Asprey to craft a skeleton clock worthy of his grandeur. The final product captures the pinnacle of opulence and royal influence in its unique shape, lavish materials, and decorative elements.”

The timepiece has approximately 345.9cts. sapphires, 166.75cts. rubies, 49.1cts. diamonds, and 8.75cts. emeralds.

Its engraved movement, which sports gold and blue sapphireencrusted Roman numerals, is flanked by two tigers and encased in a rock crystal ‘egg’ with a blue and yellow sapphire clasp. Three elephants stand on a column below the egg.

When the egg is open, the movement pivots 90 degrees to reveal the clock’s face. A date indicator is on the back of the movement.

“The tigers and elephants are symbols of the sultan’s power in Brunei,” explains Rau. “Rare rock crystal is accented by hundreds of precious gemstones that cover every inch of the clock, crafting an exceedingly ornate casing for the precise movement exposed by the skeleton clock design. As mesmerising as it is grand, this clock is second to none.”

JT2024 AUTUMN 21

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Just peachy and heartfelt Pantone has unveiled its 2024 Colour of the Year - Peach Fuzz (13-1023), which it calls a “velvety gentle peach tone whose all-embracing spirit embraces the mind, body, and soul.”

Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Paramus, New Jersey-based Pantone Color Institute, said the 25th annual choice was influenced by the “unusual time we continue to find ourselves living in. How we live and the concept of lifestyle has taken on new meaning.”

Pressman said a good word for the colour is “heartfelt,” and that people can “draw comfort” from it. The hue conjures “a feeling of kindness and tenderness and a message of caring and sharing, community and collaboration,” she added. “This is a warm and cozy shade that highlights a desire for togetherness with others, or enjoying a moment of stillness and the feeling of sanctuary this creates.”

18ct rose gold ring by Omi Privé features a 14,22ct moganite accented by round diamonds, plus two hidden marquise-cut aquamarines on the north and south sides of the gallery.

Stephen Webster shard slimline ring - 18ct recycled yellow gold, peach quartz crystal haze and white diamonds.

These Assael earrings present Angel Skin coral drops dangling from round bi-colour tourmalines totalling about 16ct, connected by pink spinel trillions.

18ct yellow gold ‘Chara’ ring from Misahara features a 66.50ct moonstone and diamonds.

• Proudly New Zealand made jewellery • 100% New Zealand sourced gold • New Zealand’s largest selection of coloured stone jewellery

W: www.solarjewellery.co.nz E: accounts@solarjewellery.co.nz P: 09 427 9171 or 027 263 3246 22 JT2024 AUTUMN

Sylva & Cie Happy Bear pendant in 18ct yellow gold with approximately 13ct pink opal, the Happy Bear radiates not only peach colour, but the sentiment that goes along with Peach Fuzz, comfort, sweetness, and light heartedness.

Annette Ferdinandsen dahlia earrings in 18ct yellow gold with pink conch shell.

When lapels become canvases Brooches were the hottest accessory of the night for television’s leading men at the 75th Primetime Emmy Awards in Los Angles and the 2024 Critics’ Choice Awards in Santa Moncia.

Host of the Emmy Awards, American actor and comedian Anthony Anderson, stole the show with four distinctive pin changes including a Dena Kemp blue sapphire and diamond dragonfly, a Mindi Mond diamond Art Deco platinum brooch, an elegant Assael’s South Sea pearl and diamond jabot pin and the Haute Joaillerie Collection brooch by Chopard, flaunting 20.78cts of yellow diamonds set in gold and titanium.

Also at the Emmys, actor Ke Huy Quan dazzled with a memorable Cartier high jewellery piece of diamonds, rock crystal, rubies, emeralds and onyx. (Photo: Cartier) At the Critics Choice Awards actor and filmmaker John Krasinsky sported a Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Paris Flames brooch on his cream suit, while actor Kieran Culkin walked the red carpet with an antique shell motif stick pin featuring a cabochon opal and diamonds.

JT2024 AUTUMN 23

Vicenzaoro, a trend-packed trade show As the first major trade show of the year, inevitably all eyes were on Vicenza, Italy. This year, celebrating its 70th anniversary, Italian Exhibition Group (IEG)’s Vicenzaoro January surpassed last year's record edition. The event brought together 1,300 exhibiting brands and closed with a visitation of +3% compared to January 2023. At this edition, T.Gold, the international innovation showcase featuring the most advanced machinery for goldsmithing and the latest processes applied to gold and jewellery, saw a 4.7% increase in attendance.

The close of the fair marked the opening of the building site that will return a new layout to the Vicenza Expo Centre for the September 2026 edition. The new 22,000sqm hall will replace Hall 2, the historic ‘snail’ built in 1971 and Hall 5, to provide

The

ETHICAL LUXURY

more space for exhibitors and better ‘navigability’ for visitors inside the building. The investment of about 60 million euros is fully financed by IEG. Trendvision, Italian Exhibition Group’s independent observatory, directed by Paola De Luca, identified five trends characterising the collections presented at Vicenzaoro...

Urban Essentials: Celebrates the essential and mixes industrial materials, such as titanium or ceramics with refined, minimalist details inspired by urban, gender-neutral architecture. Style options include transformable pieces, earrings with removable parts and layered bracelets. The neutral colour palette of black, white, gun-metal grey and deep metallic tones allows for customised combinations.

Craftcore: Represents reconnection with the past and ‘family treasure’, from cameos to repechage coins blended into the design.

Naturadelic: Embodies the bold fusion of the natural world with psychedelic aesthetics - nature fused with vibrant colours, organic shapes and innovative materials.

Storystyling: The absolute freedom to interpret personal style. The art of combining and layering jewellery in

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24 JT2024 AUTUMN

unconventional ways to tell distinct stories and reflect the personality of the wearer. Chains lend themselves well to creative ways of layering jewellery.

Patternology, with contrasting colour palettes, stylised graphics and patterns featuring simple, yet sophisticated geometric shapes that echo vintage appeal, such as the timeless Art Deco or retro-futuristic vibes of the 1970s.

The Picchiotti brand showcased its Xpandable collection.

From Vicenza exhibitor and luxury pearl jeweller Yoko London.

Count on Chemgold Experience unmatched service and reliability.

• METALS

Fope has continued to develop its patented Flex’it system with new necklace and bracelet designs which can be layered and even connected together to create a unique look.

• CASTING • CAD/CAM • REFINING • FINDINGS • ENGRAVING Email sales@chemgold.com for current freight specials

Pianegonda chains in bronze, PVD and silver.

The next Vicenzaoro will be from 6-10 September 2024.

JT2024 AUTUMN 25

Australia: 1300 984 751 International: +61 02 9698 8500 Follow us

Gifts that keep on giving Looking for something for someone who has everything?

In its latest partnership with New York-based contemporary artist Daniel Arsham, Tiffany & Co. has taken inspiration from the artist’s Venus of Arles Sculpture to create a T1 bracelet that comes with a mixed medium bust of Arsham’s creation.

In honour of the 186th anniversary of the Tiffany & Co. brand, this union of products comes in a limited edition of 186 sets. The T1 bracelet is crafted in white gold and set with 105 diamonds totalling more than one carat and more than 74 tsavorites totalling more than two carats.

Wear your story, one accessory at a time.

Parisian jewellery journalist Eléonor Picciotto has launched her jewellery brand, Maison Romaeo, to celebrate her love of Lithotherapy, which is the practice of using crystals and stones as a therapy method for healing. Maison Romae offers a selection of 12 candles inspired by the birthstone chart, through which each month is linked to one or more gems that provide properties such as healing, love and positive energy. Each candle is made from vegetable wax, which when burned down, reveals a unique gem weighing up to four carats hidden beneath the wax’s surface.

26 JT2024 AUTUMN

Founder and designer of the Foundrae jewellery brand Beth Bugdaycay is known for creating pieces of jewellery that contain holistic properties and romanticisms. As her brand grew, Bugdaycay noticed the importance of her home as her creative inspiration: In a sparkling ode to the December “I’ve been thinking a lot about what birthstone tanzanite, famous women’s makes a home. For me, it boils down shoe designer Stuart Weitzman to what is contained in the home: the partnered with Eddie Le Vian of the energy, the spirit, the love.”

LeVian jewellery brand to create a oneWith this in mind, Bugdaycay has of-a-kind pair of high heels, that feature designed a series of practical and 85 carats of tanzanite and 28 carats of meaningful luxury objects to uplift the diamonds on a base frame of platinum home. In collaboration with The Carl and white gold. And on the back, the Auböck Workshop based in Vienna, 11cm heel is encrusted with 595 carats FoundraePantone has launched the 18ct yellow Half Page 2024 V2 - PRINT READY.pdf 1 13/02/24 9:44 PM of Kwiat diamonds. gold Snake Bookends.

Jewellery for your home ... American jewellery designer Suzanne Kalan (who’s nicknamed the ‘queen of baguettes’ for her creations which heavily feature this gem cut) has collaborated with interior design artist Jonathan Adler on a series of porcelain trays. Kalan and Adler have created these trays to be the focal point of any room by mixing metallic colours with contrasting warm and cool enamel tones. Each tray features Kalan’s style of irregularly placed baguette gemstones.

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Five of the best, but there

The John-Mikaël Flaux L’Abeille Mécanique was easily the most unusual offering among the five finalists. It is essentially a mechanical bee clock that is crafted from gold and silver. The carousel movement inside the body of the bee allows it to rotate on its base and the stinger of the bee indicates the current hour against the engraved scale located on the base below it.

28 JT2024 AUTUMN

e could be only one winner At a dazzling ceremony at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, Louis Vuitton announced Swiss watchmaker Raúl Pagès as the recipient of the inaugural Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives.

Nearly 1000 brands applied for the €150,000 cash prize. Twenty semi-finalists were presented to a 45-person ‘Committee of Experts’ and then, evaluated on the criteria of design, creativity, innovation, craftmanship and technical complexity, five finalists vied for the top honour.

The final jury included Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Movements Director at TAG Heuer; Auro Montanari watch collector and writer; Rexhep Rexhepi,Founder of Akrivia and independent watchmaker; Jiaxian Su, journalist and founder of SJX Watches and Michael Tay (Jury President), Managing Director of The Hour Glass.

The runners-up were independent watchmakers Petermann Bédat, (Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat), who paid tribute to the classic pocket watch. Simon Brette, whose Chronometre Artisans watch merged neo-classicism and art nouveau touches, John-Mikaël Flaux with a surreal L’Abeille Mécanique (mechanical bee) in silver and gold and Andreas Strehler and Enrico Santoni with their mechanical perpetual desk calendar in gilded brass set with lapis lazuli.

Raúl Pagès moved from a restorer of horological masterpieces to an independent watchmaker in 2012. Today he creates about four timepieces a year, crafting them entirely by hand, from design and development of the mechanism to manufacturing, assembly and finishes. His winning design, the RP1 Régulateur à détente is a manual-winding wristwatch in stainless steel with a unique construction, featuring a calibre fitted with pivoted detent escapement.

Historically found in precision marine chronometers, detent escapements are highly accurate but typically not shock resistant. A problem Raúl solved over three years by taking inspiration from a 19th century escapement design. As a result, his escapement is shock resistant enough for everyday use in a wristwatch.

Raúl: "Being honoured by the jury of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Watchmakers is the best possible recognition of my work as an independent watchmaker. I’d like to thank Louis Vuitton for this amazing prize. And I want to say to the four finalists I have the biggest admiration for your work.

Independent watchmakers must be spearheads of creativity and defenders of craftsmanship.”

The second Louis Vuitton Watch Prize will take place in 2026.

JT2024 AUTUMN 29

Understated, but a high achiever... The Raúl Pagès RP1 Régulateur à Détente features a stainless steel case paired with a regulator display, although the unique detail about this watch is that it features a hand-made detent escapement. Dating back to the early days of marine chronometers, the detent escapement has the potential to offer superior precision, although the challenges of making it shockresistant enough for use inside wristwatches has always presented a significant challenge. Raúl Pagès solved this problem by creating a patented roller system for the movement that prevents the escape wheel from leaving the rest position when the watch receives an impact.

Raúl Pagès picked up prize money of €150,000 and a twisting solid silver trophy contained, of course, in a Vuitton trophy trunk.

The Petermann Bédat Chronographe Rattrapante ref. 2941 is a monopusher split-seconds chronograph with a jumping minute counter and a solid platinum case. Among the three wristwatches that were finalists for the prize, the Petermann Bédat Chronographe Rattrapante was the most technologically complex and it was also the only one that featured a case made from precious metal.

The Simon Brette Chronometre Artisans is a precisely finished expression of a classic three-handed wristwatch. While the case is made from titanium on the prototype, the actual production version of the watch features a case crafted from a highly corrosion-resistant zirconium alloy paired with a partially-open worked dial in solid 5N red gold that showcases a striking ‘dragon scales’ pattern throughout its surface.

The Andreas Strehler Tischkalender Sympathique is a mechanical perpetual desk calendar made from gilded brass and lapis lazuli, which also has a detachable Damascus steel pocket watch. The desk calendar stops running when the pocket watch is disconnected, although it features a mechanical memory and will automatically synchronize to the correct date once the owner returns and reconnects the pocket watch to the desk calendar unit.

30 JT2024 AUTUMN

Over 500,000 Lab Grown and mined certified diamonds with videos and images

New Zealand Office: 0274 203 137 Sydney Office: +612 8054 0606 Melbourne Office: +613 7020 7478

Put a ring on it Over the New Year London’s Tomfoolery boutique hosted a new edition of its Art Ring exhibit, a showcase of bold artisan creativity. The 29 independent designers in the show each created a ring that demonstrates their individual style and techniques, resulting in an unconventional collection of looks that made for an inspired jewellery adventure for visitors.

Falkland Islands Stylasteridae Champagne Pool Art by Alice Clarke.

“A Champagne Pool is a bowl which has been created over thousands of years by waves on the shoreline.

During a low tide the ocean leaves a pool of water in the bowl, which makes for a relaxing dip in the sparkling water surrounded by many different corals and kelp.” – Alice Clarke.

(14ct yellow gold and mixed diamonds. £5,175.00.)

Dew Drop by Momo Tamura, Momocreatura.

“During ancient Roman times, there was a belief that dew was a celestial vapor bestowed upon the Earth by the moon and stars. This belief was rooted in the observable phenomenon that dew typically formed on clear, cloudless nights when the moon and stars adorned the night sky. Drawing inspiration from this celestial connection, the Tanzanian Moyo aquamarine is likened to the dew, created by the moon and stars and surrounded by delicate gold drops.” - Momo Tamura.

(In recycled 9ct yellow gold with a 1.73ct. Tanzanian Moyo aquamarine and a 0.02ct. salt and pepper diamond. £1,125.)

Phellem Art by Issy White “A piece that pays homage to the endless, unpredictable beauty of Mother Nature. The ring is cast from the outer crust of English oak bark (phellem), with a negative space that’s ringed by diamonds, like a curl of lichen encrusted on a tree.” - Issy White (14ct yellow gold with white, green, blue and champagne diamonds, £3,750.)

Autumnal Legacy by Ellis Mhairi Cameron “The one-of-a-kind Legacy ring is inspired by the medieval jewellery hoards which have been found across Scotland. The softly distressed texture of the ring band contrasts with the colour of the diamonds. The diamonds are set into the texture of the ring, as though it has just been discovered, like buried treasure.” - Ellis Mhairi Cameron.

(In 14ct yellow gold with 1.3ct. oval diamond and 0.75ct. champagne diamonds, £7,995.)

Coral & Barnacle Cluster by Ami Pepper “This ring explores the intricate cluster formations of shells and life underwater. [My] inspiration and love of shells derives from childhood memories of beach combing along the Pembrokeshire coast. By studying the traces of the tides and colours of the landscape, the ring encapsulates an essence of the raw, organic treasure, encrusted with barnacles like a shell would be over time under the sea.” - Ami Pepper (9ct yellow gold with green sapphires, £5,700.)

Seasons & Time by Sonny Bailey-Aird “Life is a cycle of change and the seasons are just another reminder of that.” - Sonny Bailey-Aird.

(18ct yellow gold with white and salt-and-pepper diamonds, £3,125.)

32 JT2024 AUTUMN

Balance Within Asymmetry

by Derek Mckay Duncan, DMD Metal “This ring is a continued exploration into finding a balance within asymmetry. Gemstones like this uniquely shaped sapphire pose a new challenge to find equilibrium weighing elements of stone orientation, colour, texture, and negative space. Each of these composition style rings demands its own set of logic for how stones and designs are arranged, creating an innovative visual narrative for the wearer.” - Derek Mckay Duncan (In 14ct yellow gold with sapphire and diamonds, £5,310.)

Gold Ribbon Art by Marion Lebouteiller “This ring is all about movement, it is like a golden ribbon that delicately joins two parts together. Strong, steady lines mix with lightness and fluidity.” - Marion Lebouteiller (Recycled sterling silver, recycled 18ct yellow gold, diamonds £2,200.00.)

Symmetry Art Ring by Lynne MacLachlan Beauty is rather a light that plays over the symmetry of things than that symmetry itself. – Plotinus. “The ring features an intricate geometric pattern, a projection of a polygon of many symmetries, creating a tribute to the beauty of harmonious geometries.” – Lynne MacLachlan (Sterling silver, blue zircon, topaz, tanzanite, blue sapphire, pink tourmaline, £1,700.00.)

Tower Of Love II Art Ring by Maud Traon “Inspired by my six-year- old goddaughter, I fell in love with the idea of creating a ring with pink heart shaped stones.

Figurative elements and figuratively-cut stones such as stars, butterflies, flowers, and heart shapes always caught my interest. I aim to bring these elements into a wider world of poetry and metaphor. Tower of Love II is part of a limited series of rings exploring the different states of love throughout our lives.” - Maud Traon (Sterling silver, pink & red cubic zirconia, £1,250.00.)

JT2024 AUTUMN 33

NZ Distributer sales@fabuleuxvous.com HELEN: +64 274 203 137

CUDWORTH.COM.AU

A cut above the rest Images by Jeff Mason On show at the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Gem Fair in Tucson in February were the winners of the 2023 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards.

AGTA Spectrum Awards entries are judged on overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad‐based consumer appeal and potential to generate positive publicity for natural-coloured gemstones.

AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honour excellence and creativity in lapidary arts, including natural coloured gemstones and cultured pearls, carvings and other gem materials.

Among the award winners are ...

Niveet Nagpal, from Omi Privé, took First Place & Best of Show in Spectrum for his platinum ring featuring a 15.22ct. black opal, accented with Paraiba tourmalines (0.72ct.) and tsavorite garnets. (0.40ct.)

Bridal Wear - Manufacturing Honours: 18ct white gold ‘Enchanting Moon’ earrings featuring rainbow moonstones (16.0ct.) accented with heart-shape rainbow moonstones (2.00ct.) and diamonds (0.97ct.). Bella Campbell, BHI/Campbellian Collection.

LUXURY PEARL & OPAL JEWELLERY

+612 9266 0636 • ENQUIRIES@IKECHO.COM.AU

WHOLESALE.IKECHO.COM.AU

34 JT2024 AUTUMN

NZ Agent: Fabuleux Vous I +64 0274 203 137

Best Use of Pearl: 22ct yellow gold ‘Birds Eye View’ hand-carved ring featuring a cultured South Sea baroque pearl bird - Fannie Thomas Jewelry.

Evening Wear: Platinum Honours, Helen Kim Currens, for her platinum ‘The American Queen 2023’ brooch with a 6.47ct. pear-shape tanzanite accented with coloured diamonds (1.08ct.), white diamonds (2.3ct.) and tsavorite garnets (0.36 ct.).

Spectrum Editor’s Choice - Business/Day Wear: ‘Pendulum/I Spy’ pendant necklace in 14ct. yellow gold with black jade and a 13.88ct. fantasy-cut pink tourmaline with opal inlay. Ai Van Pham, Gem & Gold Creations.

Best Use of Platinum Crown: Platinum ‘Fantasia’ ring featuring a 12.24ct. aquamarine highlighted with Akoya pearls and diamonds. Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc.

Best of Show in Cutting Edge went to this magnificent matching suite of four oval Paraíba-type tourmalines (31.01ct.) from Mozambique: B Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.

Beautiful new summer collection from ESSE

Pendant 72-823 BTP, drop earrings 43- 351 BTP and a striking ring 18-1090 BTP, crafted in sterling silver and bead set with ever-popular Blue Topaz and top-grade Swarovski marcasites (also available in Rhodolite Garnet).

Something to suit every age and taste.

Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 or E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

JT2024 AUTUMN 35

Best Use of Colour: Jeffrey Bilgore LLC. for this platinum ‘Ocean & Grass Wave’ bracelet containing heated sapphires (25.02ct.), accented with Russian demantoid garnets (7.87ct.), yellow diamonds (1.14ct.) and white diamonds (7.32ct.).

Business/Day Wear - 2nd Place: Argentium and 22.35ct. placer yellow gold ‘Aspen Duet Cuff in Turning Colours from Green to Red’, using tsavorite garnet (0.38ct.) accented with orange sapphire (0.61ct.). Wolfgang Vaatz, Earth Terra Erde, Inc.

Men’s Wear - 3rd Place: ‘Somewhere in the Rainbow’. Steel and 18ct rose gold ring with an 8.19ct. faceted-edge garnet with diamonds. Marc Hollmuller.

Carving-1st Place: 515ct. Heliodor carving titled ‘The Green Jewel – Frog on Heliodor’. Patrick Dreher, Dreher Carvings LLC.

Innovative Faceting-1st Place: 17.13ct. indigo precision carved tanzanite titled ‘Nine of Diamonds’.

Bryan D. Drummond, Drummond Gems & Jewelry.

Objects of Art - 1st Place: 457 gram agate ‘Playtime’ fish accented by 18ct. yellow gold, jasper and rock crystal quartz. Patrick Dreher, Dreher Carvings LLC.

AVAILABLE AT 36 JT2024 AUTUMN

HTTPS://WWW.PACIFICTIME.CO.NZ

Confectionery-coloured collectibles Brisbane luxury jewellery designer Margot McKinney understands the power of colour and is best known for her bold statement pieces featuring a sophisticated blend of yellow sapphires, rubies, opals and luxurious oversized South Sea pearls.

The latest jewels to leave her workshop give proof of access to the finest that the earth has to offer. The new collection pairs vibrant clusters of

gemstones in luscious colours, cool and creamy baroque pearls, local opals and unusual, unheated green Paraiba tourmalines from Brazil.

In 1884 John McKinney emigrated from Ireland to Australia and established the groundwork for what would propel his luxury goods business for years to

Margot McKinney.

JT2024 AUTUMN 37

come. Margot, the fourth generation, positioned the family name on the international stage in 2006 when she launched her brand in the United States.

Opal miners, pearl farmers and gem cutters who have done business with the McKinneys over the past 140 years will come to her first, offering her the best specimens and she is an expert in hunting down the most unusual variants.

“All the opals I use were mined in the last century,” said Margot. "They are irreplaceable. The opal in the Athena cuff is a Boulder Opal from West Queensland, offered to me by a 5th generation opal miner who knows where these amazing gems are kept. When they are released from an old safe on

the minefield, he knows to offer it to me first.”

In the same Athena cuff, she has used kunzite in a mauve colour rarely seen, the norm is a delicate purple pastel hue. Margot explains: “This colour is so special as it is ancient material.

My gem cutter, Paul-Otto Caesar in Idar Oberstein, Germany, knew of its existence and offered me ten pieces of rough. Any luxury house would have snapped it up, but he offered it to me as we have a close family relationship.

He likes what I create from these special gems and that I treat them with the deference they deserve. We both agree that rare and unique gems must be in equally special settings.”

Margot McKinney’s ripple ring features a banded 34.75ct Australian Boulder opal, surrounded by Paraiba tourmalines, diamonds and blue, yellow and orange sapphires.

A show stopper – the Cosmic Girl necklace features an impressive 81.27ct morganite at its centre and clusters of diamonds and pink, orange and purples sapphires, as well as amethysts and pink tourmalines.

Margot McKinney is known for her bold and distinctive cuffs featuring brilliantly bright gemstones as in the Athena cuff with two deep mauve kunzites on either side of a dazzling opal, each one surrounded by multi-coloured gemstones.

Two Australian Boulder opals, each weighing 32.20 carats, sit at the centre of the Isle earrings that are enhanced with multi-coloured gemstones and a pair of Australian South Sea pearl drops.

Recreating the cosmos Investing 1,500 hours of craftsmanship. Louis Vuitton's Paris master jewellers have brought to life the most valuable necklace ever created by the luxury house.

The Louis Vuitton Aster necklace, a bespoke creation for a private client, comprises of 23 Kashmir sapphires weighing more than 125 carats, with a natural and untreated 17.88 carat sapphire at its centre, emanating light with a star-like quality. Perfectly matched in colour, shape, and crystal transparency, the remarkable gemstones are elegantly assembled to form an extraordinary regal design.

The sapphires alternate with 24 star-cut diamonds to create the effect of a dusky evening sky.

Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton Artistic Director for Watches and Jewellery said: “The Louis Vuitton High Jewellery Aster necklace is an extremely rare creation and, maybe for the first time in my life, I have been given the opportunity to design a necklace fit for royalty. To marry this incredible layout of sapphires with our Louis Vuitton Monogram Starcut diamonds meant that I could create a continuous constellation of spectacular gemstones.”

38 JT2024 AUTUMN

NEWS FABERGÉ OCEAN COLOURS

The House of Fabergé has unveiled its latest one-of-a-kind egg objet, produced in partnership with leading luxury ocean cruise line Regent Seven Seas Cruises.

The Fabergé x Regent Journey in Jewels Egg Objet is the pièce de résistance of Regent’s 1,600-piece art collection, now on display aboard the cruise line’s newest ship Seven Seas Grandeur and is the first Fabergé egg to permanently reside at sea.

Founding member of the Fabergé Heritage Council and great-granddaughter of Peter Carl Fabergé, Sarah Fabergé was appointed as godmother of Seven Seas Grandeur last year and unveiled the Journey in Jewels egg at the ship’s christening ceremony in Miami, Florida.

As godmother, Ms Fabergé will host a Fabergé Spotlight Voyage aboard Seven Seas Grandeur, sailing 1 July 2024, enveloping luxury travellers into the world of Fabergé with small group masterclass programmes, exclusive access to unique and intimate shore-side tours, jewelled egg demonstrations and lectures and screenings.

Crafted in England, the unique Fabergé x Regent Journey in Jewels Egg Objet is inspired by the seven seas that Regent’s ships cross and features an array of

Distributed by Olympic Watch

colourful gemstones which evoke the colours of the ocean, alongside guilloché enamel and ombre lacquering to represent not only the waters, but also sunrises and sunsets.

e: sales@olympicwatch.com p: 09 825 0061 JT2024 AUTUMN 39

De Beers takes us on safari From De Beers, a walk on the wild side. The first instalment from the De Beers ‘Forces of Nature High Jewellery’ collection has been unveiled. Eight solitaire diamond rings, each with an accompanying crown or jacket, bring to life designs inspired by eight animals native to southern Africa.

The starting point of each sculptural ring was a hero diamond, chosen for its individual character and quality. Each ring can be worn in several ways: the four jacket rings transform from solitaires into cocktail rings, while the four crown rings offer even more versatility. They can be styled with or without the hero diamond, or spread across several fingers, providing multiple looks in one spectacular piece.

Celine Assimon, De Beers Jewellers CEO, said: “When designing the rings, we had no constraints: we were guided by the individual character of eight extraordinary diamonds. Their incomparable beauty challenged us to create strikingly modern, abstract interpretations of the majestic animals that roam the environment that De Beers strives to conserve through our #BuildingForever programme.”

The eyes of a leopard are represented by paired marquise diamonds and a jacket of white and green pavé-set diamonds.

The bold and powerful buffalo Crown Ring sees a 2.01ct Fancy orange-brown diamond top pavé-set diamond horns.

The lion inspired Jacket Ring features a mane of beaded gold, surrounding a 5.09ct warm-white trilliant-cut diamond.

A jacket of faceted titanium encircles a 3.17ct Fancy Dark greenish-yellow pearshaped diamond to form the face of the rhinoceros.

Two V-shaped rings set with brown rough diamonds embrace a 5.78ct round brilliant solitaire diamond in the giraffe Crown Ring.

The zebra Jacket Ring features a pair of diamond and lacquered zebras prancing either side of a 3.09ct Asscher-cut diamond.

Three rings make up the greater kudu, whose elegant pavé-set antlers interlock around a 2.01ct cushion-cut diamond.

A 3.2ct heart-shaped diamond crowns a ring whose intertwining trunks evoke the elephant.

40 JT2024 AUTUMN

TECHSPAN NEW ZEALAND

Ultrasonic Cleaners Made in Germany

Visit the Elma Ultrasonics Online Web Shop -

www.elma-ultrasonic.co.nz

Save time, buy online

Introducing the new SELECT series from Elma....

Free phone 0800 603 603 | info@elma-ultrasonic.co.nz |

www.elma-ultrasonic.co.nz

JWNZ Spring Trade Fair 2024

Sunday 8th September 9.30am to 4.30pm Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron Westhaven, Auckland To exhibit Contact Debbie Whiting, 027 477 7955, E. inklink@xtra.co.nz To visit Contact Craig Anderson for details, 021 596 988, E. info@jwnz.co.nz

info@jwnz.co.nz

www.jewelleryfair.co.nz

Born to rally First it was Chris Evert coining the term ‘tennis bracelet’ during a U.S. Open match in 1978 when her diamond bracelet broke while she was playing and was lost on the court, now there is pickleball jewellery.

Pickleball is a fun paddle sport enjoyed by millions of people worldwide. A cross between tennis, badminton and table tennis, pickleball is played on a badminton doubles-sized court using paddles and a hollow plastic ball with holes, also known as a wiffle ball. The net is slightly lower than a tennis net.

The game was created in 1965 on Bainbridge Island, Washington, at the summer home of Joel Pritchard, who later served in the United States Congress. Pritchard and two of his friends, Barney McCallum and Bill Bell, are credited with devising the game and establishing the rules.

According to Joan Pritchard, Joel Pritchard's wife, "The name of the game became Pickleball after I said it reminded me of the ‘pickle boat’ where oarsmen were chosen from the leftovers of other boats. Other sources state that the name pickleball was derived from the name of the Pritchards' family dog, Pickles.

And a third possibility: Bill Bell claimed that he had named the game because he enjoyed hitting the ball in a way that would put his opponent in a pickle.

Pickleball was first introduced to NZ in Rotorua in 2015. There are now more than 30 clubs nationwide.

From Everwild Designs, California, a pickleball gold-plated and crystal paddle necklace.

Miami’s Boho Essentials’ pickleball 18ct gold-pated necklace.

The pickleball Apple watch band fits all 38/40/41 mm Apple watches. From Crosscourt Jewelry, Alabama.

JT2024 AUTUMN 43

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY REGISTRATION BOARD In my last article I touched on what has been the subject of much discussion, research, formal agendas motions and resolutions. In short, at the Annual General Meeting of the Jewellery Industry Registration Board the motion was put to enable us to continue to recognise who is a Master as defined in the Masters and Apprentices Act. What had become apparent is there is much feeling and a great desire, if not responsibility on us, to not only continue with apprentice training, but to also continue to ensure that term Master is not lost in the commercialisation of the apprenticeship system.

The term “Master” is defined by an Act of Parliament and that the Masters shall; “teach the apprentice in the trade of... (manufacturing jewellery and or watch and clockmaking) ..., and all and everything relating to it according to the best of the power, skill, and knowledge under the master’s command.”

Why this particular group of wording is so important is that it is the same wording that is used in the Masters and Apprentices act of 1865, the very same wording used in the oldest copy of an apprenticeship contract that JIRBNZ holds, being the indenture of JAMES PASCOE to WILLIAM MAUD 1896 in the Trade of Watch-maker and Jeweller for the sum of 50 pounds and the very same wording used in the Defence Act 2017. Quite incredible really. For a set of procedures to have endured the umpteenth changes to apprenticeship training by successive governments and departments for nearly 160 years is nothing short of brilliant.

Yes, parts of the old wording that Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

Puri Panekiretanga – Keeping Standards High

Sponsors 2024

2024 44 JT2024 AUTUMN

James Pascoe signed up for makes interesting reading. For example, that any Master who shall ill-treat or neglect to instruct their duty towards an apprentice may be summoned to appear before any two Justices of the Peace, who may fine the Master the sum not exceeding ten pounds.

And on the flip side and I can see some employers eyebrows’ being raised here, that upon application the Master may lodge a complaint against the Apprentice for a breach of duty disobedience or ill behavior while in their service and the same two Justices of the Peace may if they think fit, punish the apprentice by commitment to solitary confinement in any jail for up to three days. There is a proviso in that this may not be inflicted upon any female apprentice and that a female apprentice can also break away from her Masters command by marriage.

While we have not decided to hold our apprentices and masters to all of the old wording I am delighted to announce that the motion was put, voted and passed unanimously to form a Resolution from all of the JIRBNZ Executive to recognise those who have undertaken to: “teach the apprentice in the trade of... (manufacturing jewellery and or watch and clockmaking) and all and everything relating to it according to the best of the power, skill and knowledge under the Master’s command.”

This will be done by means of issuing each qualifying Master with a Certificate of Attainment as a TRADE CERTIFIED MASTER JEWELLER or a TRADE CERTIFIED MASTER WATCH and CLOCKMAKER. The TRADE CERTIFIED MASTER

Whangarei’s Jo-Ann French (left), now having met all of the requirements to be recognised as a Qualified, Trade Certified Manufacturing Jeweller with Qualified Tradesperson Maree Benson of Jewellery

by Maree.

Certificates have been approved and loaded for print. Applications are invited by means of direct email to JIRBNZ or though the JIRBNZ website. The recording of those who hold their TRADE CERTIFIED MASTER Certificate will be added to the formal JIRBNZ online Register which is available for public inspection.

Thank you again for all those who have worked so hard to make this happen and not the least to the commitment shown by the apprentice banner supporters for 2024 who are listed below.

– Grant Harrison Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand M: 027 693 0001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz W: www.jirbnz.org.nz

RETAILERS REVIEW BY SUSI CHINNERY-BROWN

Monique Twichel and Gina Dean.

Tucked away in the Whangarei Town Basin, in the most elegant little shop, you'll find local jeweller and owner Gina Dean, who trained at Edward Dickson in Whangarei and worked there for 13 years before taking a sabbatical overseas.

She returned to New Zealand in 2019 and started up her own studio, making hand mades 'by appointment', then established Dean & Dust in December 2021. The business makes all its own stock and concentrates on bespoke pieces, working only in gold, platinum, diamonds and precious stones.

In her spare time Gina loves travelling, spending time with family and friends and enjoying great food.

In August 2023 Gina became engaged to Adam Sheppard and made her own spectacular engagement ring. Adam is also very talented as he made all the bespoke cabinetry for the Dean & Dust store.

Gina is assisted in store by her team - Monique Twichel (Creative Director), Meg Black (jeweller) and Renee Bertie (gemmologist and jewellery valuer).

If you're in Whangarei, do pop in and see them at the Town Basin.

PANDORA SHIFTS TO RECYCLED METALS

Pandora has announced changes to its precious metals supply, with the brand now sourcing only recycled silver and gold for all its jewellery. The brand will avoid approximately 58,000 tons of C02 per year by sourcing recycled metals - this is similar to the annual electricity use of 11,000 homes.

CEO Alexander Lacik said: “Precious metals can be recycled forever without any loss of quality. Silver originally mined centuries ago is just as good as new and improved recycling can significantly reduce the climate footprint of the jewellery industry.”

As per its 2020 targets, Pandora intended to shift its sourcing to 100% recycled gold and silver by 2025.

Having reached this milestone early, the brand attributes the success of the shift to the strong commitment of its suppliers.

JT2024 AUTUMN 45

Phone 03 389 9878 Email sales@finneys.co.nz www.finneys.co.nz

JWNZ PRESIDENT’S REPORT Happy New Year to you all, I hope you all enjoyed some time off with your family and friends and had time to relax, unwind and re-charge the batteries after another challenging year.

I have just come back from my first trip to the South Island this year and had a good chance to chat to the retailers. The Christmas period was a bit of a mixed bag, but in saying that, most ended up very close to their 2022 figures (give or take) and there were tourists and visitors everywhere. Motels and restaurants busy, roads insane and multiple events on to visit and enjoy.

Would just like to see far fewer roadworks in peak holiday time. Nearly turned into an ‘exasperated lobster' after seven hours in the car from Morrinsville to Waiouru (usually about 4 1/2 hours), multiple long delays in 30+ heat and no loos. 2024 looks to be a sizzler, so it’s night travel for long trips from now on!

Not a huge watch Christmas, but the basics were still strong and with such high gold prices, it seems customers were often looking for a slightly more affordable piece of jewellery. Good

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quality silver, coloured stone jewellery, men’s bracelets and greenstone/paua jewellery. Long dangly earrings seem to be flavour of the month and Stolen Girlfriend remains a firm favourite with the younger crowd. All manufacturers were still busy at their benches with lots of repairs and re-makes.

Just when we thought the ramraids and burglaries were easing off, it is concerning to hear of more (and unfortunately, we do not always hear about them). Security is still a top priority to protect yourselves and your staff. Ensure you have robust systems in place, a clear action plan and regular staff training to keep everyone up to speed on what to do if the unthinkable should happen.

Lastly, we are already well into the year and the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair is only six months away. The time will fly past. So, lock the date into your diary - Sunday 8th September at the RNZYS, Westhaven, Auckland, 9.30am to 4.30pm. If you see a cheap airfare, GRAB it. It is a fabulous event, in a fabulous venue, a highlight of our year and 2024 promises to be even bigger

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and better.

If you have any questions or concerns, please feel free to contact me at any time.

- Susi Chinnery-Brown, JWNZ President 07 889 3545, 021 751 115 susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

WATCHMAKERS’ INSTITUTE OF NZ

Cambridge’s tower clock - in line for a major overhaul.

46 JT2024 AUTUMN

Cambridge, New Zealand is home to a historic tower clock that has been a landmark in the town for more than a century. The clock movement was supplied by Littlejohn and Sons of Wellington in 1908 and was originally in a tower on the Post Office (now Alpino Restaurant). It was reconstructed at its current location in 1934 and has been an iconic feature ever since. Its elegant design and precise timekeeping have made it a beloved symbol of the town's history and culture.

Over the years, the clock movement has been well maintained by Pilbrows Watchmakers, ensuring that it continues to serve as a timeless reminder of Cambridge's past. Today, it stands as a testament to the town's enduring legacy and is a must-see for visitors to the area.

Earlier this month Rowan Pilbrow, Paige Lilley and I have had the privilege of starting work on the movement in the top of the tower, as part of a complete restoration of the clock tower. So we finished the removal, which culminated in the lowering of the

On the job, Nick Parker, Paige Lilley and Rowan Pilbrow.

GOLDSMITHS GUILD OF NZ I hope everyone managed to have a relaxing break over the summer. It’s a great time to recharge the batteries for the year ahead. I haven’t had the opportunity to talk with many of our members over that time, but I have not been made aware of any major issues that are concerning people. If there are concerns that you wish to bring to the attention of the Goldsmiths Guild, then I am only a phone call away.

The all-important GG AGM, which was held on the 21st of November in Wellington, was well attended. We attempted to set up a Zoom video link for members to attend remotely, but we had technical issues that prevented any success there. We have been wanting more involvement from members outside the Wellington region so it was a problem we could have done without.

The new committee voted in is: • Brian Barrett - Chairman • Darren Orr - Wellington • Ian Douglas - Wellington • Mike Sherring – Hutt Valley • Warren Beard – Hutt Valley • Sam Drummond – Palmerston North • Steve Haywood - Whangarei

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Lloyd Kelly decided to stand down after many years on the committee.

I would like to thank Lloyd for his enthusiasm and many years of dedication and support for the Guild.

If anyone feels they are in a position to be involved with any Guild issues please contact me. It would be nice to have a wider national representation at the committee level.

One of the issues raised at the AGM was communication among members, which seems to be a dying art. It could be particularly useful when it comes to job opportunities, for instance. Another important issue is promotion of the Health and Safety Manual. Although the uptake has been good, there are still people who are unaware that it is now a legal requirement to have one.

We strongly encourage use of the Guild Facebook page. The Facebook page (Goldsmiths Guild of New Zealand) is a closed group and is an excellent forum for Guild members to air any issues, to share their thoughts, to post photos of work of which they are proud or with which they are seeking guidance, or to ask questions

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that would stimulate conversation from like-minded people. It is your page; please use it.

The loss of three members during the year was sadly noted: Rolf Kluger, Wellington; Rex Mason, Christchurch; Jesse Taylor, Cambridge.

- Brian Barrett, GGNZ Chairman Tel: 04 476 4764, 021 661 060, brian@bhbdesigns.co.nz

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clock frame, (which we estimate weighs in excess of 200Kg), to the ground via the rather narrow weight shaft.

The drop is three stories or approximately 11 metres. The whole project will take about five months to complete. The movement itself will

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receive a complete overhaul including a fresh coat of paint.

As always if there is anything I can help with please do not hesitate to contact me.

Nick Parker.

– Nick Parker, nick@pilbrowswatchmaker.co.nz, Ph 03 351 1320.

JT2024 AUTUMN 47

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc. M E MBE R BE NE F ITS: Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication.

JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry.

Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.

2024

Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.

Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy.

BUSINESS SERVICES: ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking.

ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.

Crombie Lockwood Insurance Brokers - Business, Personal and Travel insurances.

Business & Personal Banking

Merchant Facilities

CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.

EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions.

Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales.

Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions.

Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables.

Vodafone - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband Vodafone - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers

INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION: Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand - Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training.

Telecommunication Services

TRADE & COMMERCE: Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development.

48 JT2024 AUTUMN

JWNZ EXECUTIVE NOTES 2024 JWNZ TRADE FAIR

The JWNZ Spring Trade Fair is scheduled for Sunday 8 September 2024 and the exhibitor space is almost sold out. There is a limited number of exhibitor tables left, as we have added additional space to supply the demand from potential exhibitors. The event is to be held at the RNZYS, Westhaven, 181 Westhaven Drive, Auckland and Debbie Whiting, Trade Fair Manager, has advised the choice of venue received very positive comments from both exhibitors and visitors in 2023.

As in previous years the JWNZ Annual General Meeting is scheduled to take place prior to the Trade Fair on Saturday 7 September, at the same venue.

JWNZ FINANCIAL MEMBERSHIP ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTIONS Your 2024-2025 Annual Membership Subscriptions will remain unchanged.

However, be advised that a complete review of all membership categories is being undertaken and there will be a yet to be determined increase in

Members’ Lounge, RNZYS.

Main Hall, RNZYS.

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the annual subscription rates for the 2025-2026 year. Subscriptions have not increased for several years and with the changing business and economic environment over the last five years, an increase is essential to maintain the benefits provided to you by the organisation.

We thank you for your support through your financial membership of the JWNZ. The JWNZ Executive has been very aware of costs and our budgeting should see the organisation with a small surplus reflected in the 2023-2024 accounts.

Our financial year end is 29 February 2024 and your 2024-2025 annual subscription invoices will be sent to you in March. As your Financial Membership Certificate ends 30 June 2024, this will allow you three months to pay your subscription. To help with your budgeting we offer the option of paying the annual membership subscription by monthly by instalment.

JWNZ RULES FOR THE FUTURE

Currently the re-registering of the organisation dates are set, but the content has yet to be finalised as there are several requirements from Government, which we understand, are yet to be advised. This means that our initial time frame to complete the review has been extended until such time we know all the final requirements to be included in the new rules.

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Craig Anderson.

INDUSTRY SURVEY

The JWNZ needs to have a better understanding of the turnover and pay rates within our industry. We will be sending members a questionnaire that we would appreciate members participating in. Information requested will include a survey on turnover, wages and salaries. This will remain confidential and your response will give us an overview and understanding of the industry, as well as any regional differences that may occur.

JWNZ INC. NATIONAL OFFICE Craig Anderson JWNZ Executive Secretary T 021 59 69 88 E info@jwnz.co.nz

Quarterdeck, RNZYS. JT2024 AUTUMN 49

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES BE BEDAZZLED Indulge in luxury with this exquisite round diamond circle necklace, crafted to perfection with lab-grown diamonds of VVS-VS clarity and E-F colour, elegantly set in 18ct white gold. This is a stunning addition to any jewellery collection. Round Diamond Circle Necklace GP0082 - $999.

Discover elegance redefined with Lagani's exquisite lab-grown diamond huggie hoop earrings. Crafted in 14ct yellow gold, each piece boasts impeccable VVS-VS clarity and EF colour, radiating brilliance and sophistication. Elevate your collection with our captivating designs. Huggie Hoop Earrings ER0146 - $519.

Lagani's 6 prong setting side stone engagement ring features a round 1.03ct lab-grown diamond set in 14ct yellow gold offering timeless sophistication and offering clients the perfect blend of luxury and sustainability. Contact us for inquiries or explore our entire collection.

6 Prong setting Side Stone Engagement Ring LR0240 - $1,299 Contact: Satish Kathiriya, Ph 022 101 3235, satish@lagani.co.nz, www.lagani.co.nz

YES, PLEASE From GUESS. Add a touch of old school glamour to your look with this new gold tone hexagonal dial watch from GUESS, featuring a 28mm sparkling glitz dial and crystal case bezel. The unique hexagon shape and delicate, thin link polished gold tone bracelet create the perfect jewellery inspired timepiece. $NZ429.95. GW0680L2.

Experience a completely new aesthetic with the new Heirloom watch from Rosefield.

The thicker gold tone rectangular case and dual finishes on the white dial are pure sophistication. The mini links on the duo tone silver and gold tone bracelet add a feminine touch and are easily adjustable with a sliding closure. $NZ229.95. HWDSG-H03.

An 80's throwback digital mood infused with modern flair, taken directly from the extensive archives of adidas Originals. The blacked out Digital Two watch is a playful accessory with serious timekeeping capabilities including time and date display, alarm, and chronograph functions in an all black 36mm case with a stainless steel black IP expansion band. $NZ219.95. AOST24059.

On trend and easy to style, this new gold tone necklace from GUESS features a gold tone dagger pendant and black coin icon with our iconic G logo framed in a gold tone stainless steel backing. Pair it with the matching earrings and bracelet for a bold style statement. $129.95.

JUMN04023JWYGBK. Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaaccessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au 50 JT2024 AUTUMN

LOOKING GOOD...

680-12: Ion plated black polished stainless steel /tiger eye signet ring.

380-81: Ion plated gun metal stainless steel thick curb link neck chain.

380-46: 6mm Labradorite & red tiger eye & stainless steel beaded stretch neck chain.

TAKE YOUR PICK...

695-76: Rhodium plated sterling silver/onyx signet ring.

380-45: 6mm Yellow tiger eye & matt agate & Ion plated gold stretch bead neck chain.

Bracelets in polished stainless steel & double rope in scarlet, navy, royal blue, cool blue, army, yellow ochre and black. 640-20.

Contact: Cudworth by Renniks, NZ Agent: Helen ThompsonCarter, Ph 0274 203 137, helen@fabuleux.com, www.fabuleuxvous.com

DESIGNED TO DELIGHT

These stunning new 12mm gold huggies are lightweight and elegant featuring a 7mm freshwater drop pearl.

Also available with a Keshi pearl, or any style of pearl you desire, our workshop can tailor these to your liking. Product code ERW030.

If you’re looking to make a statement these beautiful new Keshi drop earrings will make a splash. Hugely popular with brides, or anyone looking to add a touch of elegance to their outfit.

Product Code KT060G.

Introducing our latest must-have chain, the Italian made 9ct solid gold paperclip. This sleek and modern piece is now one of our most sought-after designs, available as a necklace or bracelet. Product code 9YKRD70.

Brand new to PEKA’s collection is our 18ct gold bezel set diamond necklace.

Available in both yellow and white gold, this petite diamond pendant is already proving to be extremely popular.

Product code DIA01518Y. Also introducing PEKA’s new catalogue!

After 12 months in the making, PEKA is excited to announce the launch of its new catalogue featuring an extensive range of new products, including brand new chain styles, findings, pearls and earrings. To get your hands on one you must be a registered PEKA customer, so if you would like to sign up head to www.peka.co.nz and complete the online registration form.

Contact: PEKA, Ph 03 379 8498, NZ Freephone: 0800 892 432, AU Freephone: 1800 571 963, info@peka.co.nz, www.peka.co.nz JT2024 AUTUMN 51

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES INTRODUCING...

SOPHISTICATION PLUS

HB7481: ‘Dear’ 8mm black satined steel bracelet. Also available in stainless and IP Gold. RRP $135.

HB2888010: ‘Zen’ bracelet with beads, 8mm tiger eyes, rhodochrosite and arabesque polished steel. Elastic bracelet. RRP $85.

A2381: ‘Cabestan’ ring, steel/IP Black cable. 6mm. RRP $85.

A0510: ‘Hybrid’ ring, stainless steel and black carbon. 8mm. RRP $85.

Enhance your personal style with our exquisite Gwendolyn bracelet, a perfect blend of individuality and timeless elegance. This bracelet boasts a strand of round freshwater pearls, highlighted by a generously sized Baroque pearl at its centre, all elegantly fastened with a 9ct ball clasp for easy wearing. Suitable for any event, it radiates understated sophistication and beautifully highlights your distinctive fashion sense. IC-W7B19-BAR-9YG. Contact: Ikecho Australia, Ph 61 2 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.com.au, www.ikecho.com.au

OF THE MOMENT

HB01380: ‘Major’, 4mm polished steel bracelet. RRP $69. Also available in IP Gold.

Contact: Pacific Time Industries, P: 03 356 3587, sales@pacifictime.co.nz, www.pacifictime.co.nz

TO KEEP Imagine a world where cherished memories are beautifully preserved.

Introducing our Cremation Keepsake Locket, a heartfelt blend of elegance and sentimentality. This sterling silver (24 x 24mm) engraved heart locket is a stunning piece of jewellery that holds a special place for your loved ones.

With a discreet base metal urn inside, it becomes a tender resting place for a precious portion of ashes. When you choose this locket, instructions on how to use the urn are included, ensuring a seamless and meaningful experience.

Carry the love and memories close to your heart with this timeless piece, a symbol of eternal remembrance.

A 45cm chain in included.

Contact: Heart in Diamond, Ph 06 759 1914, 0800 600 013, kara@heart-in-diamond.co.nz, www.heart-in-diamond.co.nz 52 JT2024 AUTUMN

Big, bold and beautiful...these cocktail rings from ESSE make a real statement.

Crafted in sterling silver and hand set with Swarovski marcasites and green agate (18-1002 GAG), lapis lazuli (18-1085) and synthetic ruby (18-112 RMC).

Contact: AM IMPORTS Pty Ltd. NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 or susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

NATURAL CHOICES

The divine Nature’s Knot Bangle celebrates humanity’s harmonious ties to our natural world. Designed in Australia, the striking four-knot design is meticulously handcrafted by our Thai silversmiths using a single piece of solid precious wire. Available in sterling silver and 14ct yellow gold-plated silver.

B7044: Nature’s Knot Bangle (68mm).

This heavenly solid sterling silver ring embodies nature, our ultimate muse. The organic twist symbolises humanity's interwoven connection with the natural world and the harmony it inspires. Consciously crafted by our longstanding Thai silversmiths. 7.5mm wide solid band with single twist feature. R7005: Muse Ring.

PAY ATTENTION

This idyllic sterling silver necklace weaves a story of attraction and protection inspired by the beauty of nature’s botanical husks. The turquoise cabochon is encased in sterling silver to disperse light and colour as you move.

The pendant slides along a round box chain crafted by our Italian silversmiths.

N7055: Husk Turquoise Small Necklace (45cm+ext).

The Illusionist Earrings are inspired by the Aurora's dancing waves of light.

Their clever optical illusion achieves the look of an artful double hoop stack with one glamorous pair of earrings.

Each pair is sculptured using a single strand of precious metal, fusing contemporary playfulness with eternal elegance. Available in sterling silver and 14ct yellow gold- plated silver. 10mm x 24mm, stud fastenings. E7048: Illusionist Earrings.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, helen@thebrandagent.co.nz, info@najo.com.au, +61 2 9415 6663

JUST RIGHT FOR MAY

New to W&D, matching 9ct yellow gold earrings, pendant and ring design, featuring natural emerald and diamonds, perfect for the birthstone of May. Contact: Worth & Douglas Ltd, P +64 9 303 4666, sales@worthdouglas.co.nz. www.worthdouglas.com

Make a sparkling, confident statement.

This cocktail ring, made of the finest materials, is perfect for a grand entrance. Made of recycled silver, the piece is set with small, pink zirconia stones. Thanks to their elaborate octagon, pear or round cut, they provide a unique sparkle and draw all the attention to their intense pinkish colour.

THOMAS SABO – TR2441P, $499

A CLASSIC MEETS A CLASSIC

This sophisticated and masculine chronograph seamlessly blends the classic panda dial, a white dial with black sub-dials, with the iconic Swiss railway station design creating an irresistibly appealing fusion of two watch classics.

Mondaine - MSD.41420.LBV, $849.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, TS Retail NZ, DGA Duraflex Group Australia, Ph +61 2 9417 0177, NZ 027 7226 000, helen@dgau.com.au JT2024 AUTUMN 53

DIRECTORY JEWELLERY BUSINESS FOR SALE HAWERA, TARANAKI Opened in 1981, after 43 years of trading in the middle of High Street, Hawera, the Unka’s are retiring and offering their well established and very profitable business for sale.

Well equipped with a wide selection of Jewellery, Watches, Clocks and Trophy stock. Also offering Jewellery, Watch and Clock repair services and Engraving.

Current staff are very knowledgeable and have been in the Jewellery business (repair and sales) for many years, willing to stay on.

Located in prime main street position. Competitive lease rental. Vendors may consider selling freehold.

For more information contact Selwyn Metcalfe, ph 027 444 8863 Metcalfe Real Estate. Licenced Agent REAA2008

WATCHMAKER / WATCH TECHNICIAN WANTED Come join our friendly team in our busy Auckland workshop.

Position for either a fully qualified Watchmaker or Watch Technician. Full time position, all enquiries will be treated with confidence.

All rethreading including lengthening & shortening Extensive range of clasps Pearl drilling 19 Tapestry Grove, Silverstream, Upper Hutt 5019 p 04 528 9699 e info@aven.co.nz www.aven.co.nz

Importers and wholesalers of premium Gold, Platinum and Sterling Silver findings.

• NEW WEBSITE WITH PRICING FOR EASY ONLINE ORDERING • QUICK DISPATCH OF ORDERS • PERSONAL CUSTOMER SUPPORT • HAPPY TO HELP SOURCE FINDINGS NOT ON OUR WEBSITE Contact Julie on 09-478 9950 or info@nzfindings.co.nz www.nzfindings.co.nz 54 JT2024 AUTUMN

Very competitive remuneration Please email:

antonylow@watchworld.co.nz

• Quality Akoya & Freshwater Pearls • Unique semi-precious necklaces • ESSE Marcarsite Sterling Silver jewellery PO Box 62, Morrinsville 3340, New Zealand I E: susi@twentyfive7.co.nz P: +64 7 889 3545 I M: + 64 21 751 115

NZ Distributer sales@fabuleuxvous.com HELEN: +64 274 203 137

CUDWORTH.COM.AU

Our Clocks range from traditional to contemporary, Collectables to Grandfathers.

Pronto Clock Company Ltd Ph 07 880 9795 info@prontoclocks.co.nz

C o l l e ct ab l e s Lucida Calligraphy font, bold, italics

OV E R 3 00 STY L E S O F G O L D A N D S I LV E R C H A I N H E L D I N STO C K CHAIN PEARLS FINDINGS EARRINGS PENDANTS SERVICES

N Z : 0 8 0 0 8 9 2 4 3 2 AU : 1 8 0 0 5 7 1 9 6 3

w w w. p e ka . c o . nz | info @ p e ka . c o . nz JT2024 AUTUMN 55

DIRECTORY

ARGOSY GEMS for Design Work & Trade repairs.

Sourcing of Gems from the cutters.

Hand Engraving, Setting, Sizing, trade repairs.

Prompt Turn around of your Jobs.

Richard 021670145, Argosy 03 3669332 141 Holly Rd, Christchurch 8014 argosy.jewellery@gmail.com argosyjewellery.co.nz

Directory Advertising $150.00 each

for Standard Business Card size advertisement

$400.00

$300.00 each

Carl Yung Gems Ltd Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones & Jewellery Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available.

P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland.

Ph: 09-623 2078 Email: info@carlyung.com

Ultrasonic Cleaners Made in Germany

Elmasonic “SELECT” series

for Double Standard Business Card size advertisement

$800.00

for 4 issues (1 year)

for 4 issues (1 year)

Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland.

Phone 09 - 378 1222 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: inklink@xtra.co.nz

www.elma-ultrasonic.co.nz TECHSPAN NEW ZEALAND LTD

0800 603 603 info@elma-ultrasonic.co.nz

1st Floor Gibson Sheat Centre 1 Margaret Street, Lower Hutt New Zealand’s leading Safe & Vault specialists.

I

I

I

Bullion Safes Jewellery Safes Cash Safes Modular Vaults & Vault doors

www.safeman.co.nz 56 JT2024 AUTUMN

Ph: 0800 723 365

0800 743 774 sales@rings.co.nz www.rings.co.nz

2024 2024 AUTUMN

2023

2023

Happiness Blossoms Inspired by May bells.

Designed to spread happiness.

FURLA.COM

JT_MAGAZINE_210x275mm.indd 1

#ITALYBYFURLA

8/9/23 9:44 AM

The crew at Jewellery Time would like to thank our loyal advertisers and contributors.

Thirty years plus behind us now and with good support from our industry we look forward to 2024 and four bumper issues!

2024 foretells a year of prosperity for the sign of the Dragon, symbolising authority, abundance, and good fortune. The Wood Dragon’s influence in 2024 promises evolution, improvement, and abundance.

Deadlines for 2024: 2024 Winter Booking and Editorial: May 2, Ad Material: May 9, Magazine Posted: May 16

2024 Spring Trade Fair Special Booking and Editorial: August 2, Ad Material: August 9, Magazine Posted: August 16

2024 Summer Booking and Editorial: November 1, Ad Material: November 8, Magazine Posted: November 15

2025 Autumn Booking and Editorial: February 10, Ad Material: February 17, Magazine Posted: February 24

Give us a call to discuss how we can help.

Any support the trade can give us is welcomed. If you have an advertisement, new products to promote, or an editorial feature suggestion, please get in touch.

Debbie Whiting (advertising) and Debra Douglas (editorial) inklink@xtra.co.nz 09 378 1222 / 0274 777 955

chaucer@xtra.co.nz 021 185 6846

Quasar Diamond is New Zealand’s foremost diamond authority. Each Quasar diamond is carefully selected by qualified diamond experts for complete peace of mind. Purchasing a Quasar Certified diamond is your ethical guarantee of both sustainability and exceptional quality.

Sustainable

4Cs

Natural Diamonds

High Grade Cuts

GIA Report

sales@nzgem.co.nz, 0800 NZ GEM (0800 69 43 67), P +64 9 377 3855, @quasardiamondsnz, quasardiamonds.com