Digital Technologies Make Their Way Around the Globe & Across Segments
Weaving AI, Robotics, and Imagery Sensor Technology into Healthcare Textiles DURABLES
Executive Interview: Pioneering the Future of Sustainable Textiles By Arun Rao, Correspondent to India, IFJ
Machinery Goes Digital By Adrian Wilson, International Correspondent, IFJ
Wearables & Healthcare By Marie O’Mahony, Smart & Advanced Textiles Correspondent, IFJ
Prolonging Product Lifecycles for a Sustainable Tomorrow By Caryn Smith, Chief Content Officer and Publisher, IFJ
Bio-Based Fiber Intermediates Market Poised for Lift-Off
By Geoff Fisher, European Editor, IFJ
TTNA Review: A Shared Vision By Matt O’Sickey
Adhesives & Bonding Roundup: Adhering to Solutions That Make a Difference
FOCUS ON NONWOVENS Durables – In The Bag By Adrian Wilson, International Correspondent, IFJ
Nonwovens for a Healthier Planet.
The Intersection of Nonwoven Materials & Sustainability. Emerging Trends. Empowering Innovation. Enhancing Knowledge. Global Reach.
IDEA®25 is a gathering of the international nonwovens industry to discuss the future of nonwoven materials, their applications, and how they will shape both form and function in various market sectors.
Attend – Experiencing IDEA®25 provides a unique opportunity to see, touch and feel innovations in person. Meet and create new business with the professionals and companies behind these developments.
Exhibit – Showcasing your company at IDEA®25 inspires brand owners and brand marketers as they interact with your materials, technologies and processes. Partner with industry leaders to create new products with the intent of recycling, reusing and repurposing…for a healthier planet.
Caryn Smith
Chief Content Officer & Publisher, INDA Media csmith@inda.org +1 239.225.6137
Marie O’Mahony Smart & Advanced Textiles Correspondent marie.consultant@gmail.com
Geoff Fisher European Editor gfisher@textilemedia.com +44 1603.308158
Adrian Wilson International Correspondent adawilson@gmail.com +44 7897.913134
2024-25 CALL FOR CONTRIBUTORS
Arun Rao Correspondent to India Owner, Taurus Communications arun@tauruscomm.net
Matt O’Sickey
Director of Education & Technical Affairs, INDA mosickey@inda.org +1 919.459.3748
Have you got something to say?
We Need Your Expertise! CALL for EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD MEMBERS
This is a unique opportunity to help inform, educate and inspire the global textile fiber industry.
Do you have an interest to be more involved in International Fiber Journal as an IFJ Editorial Advisory Board Member? We are accepting applications! Email Caryn Smith at CSmith@inda.org to receive the Guidelines.
This is a two-year renewable service term. Active participation is expected. Commitment includes meeting basic participation requirements annually.
International Fiber Journal is actively seeking contributed technical, educational, and thought leadership articles from qualified industry professionals and those allied to the fiber industry. If you would like to pitch an article for publication in IFJ, please contact Caryn Smith at CSmith@inda.org or +1 239.225.6137. Inquire to receive an Editorial Calendar of each issue topics.
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International Fiber Journal reaches a vast network of qualified professionals who employ fibers, nonwovens, technologies, equipment and more to optimiz se operations. With unique readers in markets that have strong crossover, IFJ offers print and digital opportunities to maximize marketing investments with a range of solutions based on true thought-leadership platforms. IFJ subscribers are in 67 countries. There are 17 countries with signficant readership (print and digital) that include USA, Hong Kong, Germany, China, India, Italy, United Kingdom, France, Spain, Belgium, Japan, Canada, Australia, Mexico, Switzerland, Brazil, and Taiwan. Don’t Leave Your Fate to Chance. Get a Media Kit: Email Advertising@inda.media today!
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VIEWPOINT
Durability is a Game Changer
Neither machines, nor the commodities made by them, rise in real value, but all commodities made by machines fall, and fall in proportion to their durability.
– David Ricardo (1852), British Political Economist
urability is a topic that is increasingly mentioned in the light of textiles and sustainability. Single-use items are mainly discussed, but it applies to other categories from fashion to home goods to hygiene, and beyond. It seems like a new idea, that textile goods should last longer, but it wasn’t that long ago that in manufacturing it was the gold standard.
It was frowned upon when machines began to make goods that were not durable. Of course, this view was held as society ramped up into the industrial revolution, when machines began to replace labourers who made and assembled items on manual production lines. It was thought that machines could not do as good of work as people. Oddly enough, we still are having that debate today as AI technology is evolving.
Over the last 100 years, we have experienced a slow and steady cultural indoctrination, moving from quality to quantity, durable to disposable, craftsmanship to mass production, fashion over function, needs to wants. Today as a dime-a-dozen throw-away (first world) society, most goods are about having choices and convenience. For the health and wellness category, i.e., the hygiene sector, obviously a sanitary standard must be upheld. Yet, much of the waste from textiles stems from things we could control, if desired.
Plastics usage evolved in the manufacturing world after the Second World War and then again during the 1960s and 1970s and its existence has created mind sets that are almost irreversible now. Plastic makes things less costly to make and purchase. We cannot legislate plastic out of our world. It is everywhere, and in almost everything. So what are the options?
In this issue, two articles on durability offer some solutions.
First, we have an article on Brakeable, on page 21, a small start up company working to connect consumers and manufacturers on defects in goods through a platform. These defects often prematurely end a product’s useful life – things that a consumer may count among their favorites – and this platform is a way for manufacturers to engage with their brand followers on these matters. I met Stefan Hauser, Founder and CEO, at Techtextil in Frankfurt in April, and I was intrigued with the idea that was inspired by a defect in his own backpack. Ultimately, the premise is longer product life equals less textile waste. It is from this generation of innovators that change will likely result.
Also in this issue, on page 36, Adrian Wilson talks durability in the nonwovens sector. From filter bags to geotextiles, innovation is rising to lengthen the useful life of some nonwovens textile applications.
In other news, there is a lot of work on intermediates and sustainability, reported by Geoff Fisher on page 24.
And on page 30, we have our first-ever “Adhesives and Bonding Roundup,” where several companies share innovations that they are working on for this sector. Some of it adds to sustainability, durability and functionality that adhesives play in many areas of textile production.
Lastly, we would love to know what you want to read about! We are planning topics for 2025. Send me your thoughts to csmith@inda.org! Enjoy the read!
Caryn Smith Chief Content Officer & Publisher, INDA
Media, IFJ
Comprehensive Poster on Biodegradable Polymers Updated
The world’s leading poster on biodegradability has been updated by the nova team of experts: current standards and certifications, as well as the latest scientific findings.
The biodegradation of a material is a process that depends on the complex biological conditions at each site. In addition, only a handful of polymers have the inherent ability to biodegrade in different environments. Therefore, specific standards and certificates have been developed in recent years to provide a framework for declaring whether or not a product can biodegrade in an environment. Scientific verification and certification of the communication of environmental claims is becoming increasingly important under the Green Claims Directive. Biodegradability is one environmental claim that will need to be verified by third party certification. In order to improve the understanding of biodegradation and biodegradability and their certification, a group of experts came together a few years ago to develop a poster showing which polymers biodegrade in which environments according to established
standards and certification schemes. This group includes experts from the nova Institute (Germany) together with a number of leading experts from Normec OWS (Belgium), Hydra Marine Science (Italy/Germany), IKT Stuttgart (Germany), Wageningen University & Research (The Netherlands) and in cooperation with DIN CERTCO (Germany) and TÜV AUSTRIA (Austria/Belgium).
The expert group met again this year to discuss the latest scientific evidence in the field of biodegradable polymers in order to make meaningful changes to the poster. The generic classification on the poster is only supported by tests performed in the context of certification. The expert group decided to include the biodegradability of polycaprolactone (PCL) in additional environments: soil, freshwater, marine and anaerobic conditions. In addition, a new certification for marine biodegradability has been published by DIN CERTCO in 2023, based on ISO 22403, the standard that pro-
vides requirements for marine biodegradability, and is now mentioned on the poster. A new poster design and a more precise definition of biodegradation and biodegradability complete the update for this year.
The full team of experts will keep abreast of the latest scientific publications and certifications in the field of biodegradable polymers and will continue to keep this poster up to date.
About nova-Institute
nova-Institut GmbH has been working in the field of sustainability since the mid-1990s and focuses today primarily on the topic of renewable carbon cycles (recycling, bioeconomy and CO2 utilization/CCU).
As an independent research institute, nova supports in particular customers in chemical, plastics and materials industries with the transformation from fossil to renewable carbon from biomass, direct CO2 utilization and recycling.
Both in the accompanying research of international innovation projects and in individual, scientifically based management consulting, a multidisciplinary team of scientists at nova deals with the entire range of topics from renewable raw materials, technologies and markets, economics, political framework conditions, life cycle assessments and sustainability to communication, target groups and strategy development.
Fifty experts from various disciplines are working together on the fossilization of the industry and for a climate neutral future.
For more information visit: nova-institute.eu or renewable-carbon.eu
For details on how to submit your company’s technology for consideration as a “Technology Spotlight” in IFJ, contact Ken Norberg at ken@ifj.com or +1 202.682.2022.
NOTES TECH
UNIFI® Launches Globally Available Circular Polyester Products Made From Textile Waste
UNIFI, Inc., a leading innovator in recycled and synthetic yarn, announced the launch of two new products, making its circular REPREVE ® offering the largest portfolio of regenerated performance polyester in the world. Powered by the Company’s proprietary Textile Takeback™ process, UNIFI® now offers white-dyeable filament yarn and a revolutionary insulation material, ThermaLoop™, representing a major leap forward in scalable textile-to-textile recycling.
“Polyester is the most widely utilized fiber on the planet, and it’s time for transformative change,” said Eddie Ingle, Chief Executive Officer of UNIFI, Inc. “Textile brands can now create solutions with the entire product life cycle in mind and work towards achieving their 2030 environmentally preferred materials targets. Our goal is to provide the best-in-class sustainable products that eliminate the need for virgin materials and reduce carbon emissions.”
Made from 100%* recycled polyester feedstock, with at least 50% textile waste, the two new products both achieve virginquality standards. The Textile Takeback™
process recycles both global post-industrial and post-consumer textile waste into next-generation materials using proprietary technologies. Further enhancing value throughout the supply chain, UNIFI will also partner with global brands to take back their waste and keep materials in circulation longer.
With widespread versatility across industries, applications, and colorways, the new circular REPREVE filament yarn is a white, dyeable, high-performance polyester that is designed for the most critical applications. The circular REPREVE polyester line, which also includes black filament yarn and black and white staple fiber, contains the inherent FiberPrint® tracer technology, meaning that all products can gain U-Trust® certification.
ThermaLoop™ insulation, available in down-like fiber, fiberball, and padding, offers performance, recovery, and thermal efficiency. The padding is engineered with REPREVE low melt fiber, a pioneering innovation that
Indorama Ventures Joins the T-REX Project for Textile Recycling
Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited, a global sustainable chemical company, recently announced its role in the groundbreaking T-REX (Textile Recycling Excellence) Project. This ambitious initiative aims to establish a harmonized EU blueprint for the closed-loop sorting and recycling of household textile waste to help the fashion industry transition towards a more circular and sustainable future. By bringing together key stakeholders across the entire value chain, the project positions itself at the forefront of sustainable innovation. The designated spinning partner, Indorama Ventures, will process the chemical
recycled feedstock into polyester yarns and fibers through the extrusion process, ensuring the elimination of impurities. The company’s participation in the project also aligns with its goals of driving the circular economy and circular fashion industry through PET recycling and supply of recycled materials, underscoring its commitment to sustainability.
enables the production of 100%* recycled synthetic padding. Driven by UNIFI’s ‘waste nothing’ philosophy, ThermaLoop’s launch in black insulation showcases the wide variety of textile waste that can be utilized as feedstock.
The two new products are both available globally now, and can be integrated seamlessly into existing supply chains, without disruption. This commercial scalability tackles a key challenge for polyester-reliant industries, particularly fashion brands, which have long sought to create circular apparel to meet sustainability goals. These products underpin UNIFI’s goal to recycle 1.5 billion t-shirts’ worth of textile waste by fiscal year 2030. www.repreve.com
The T-REX Project launched with the aim of creating a harmonised blueprint which will support the creation of a circular system for post-consumer textile waste within Europe. The EU funded project brings together a
consortium of 13 major players from across the entire value chain along with research institutes to transform end-of-use textiles from waste into valuable feedstock and a commodity for new business models that can be adopted at scale. www.trexproject.eu
UNIFI’s Textile Takeback.
T-Rex Project.
Apex Mills Launches Long-Lasting Stretch Fabric
Apex Mills, a premier USA manufacturer of specialty fabric solutions, announced the launch of OutStretch™, a revolutionary new collection of textiles targeting the high-performance needs of the apparel industry.
Designed for a spandex-free comfortable stretch, OutStretch™ offers exceptional durability and long-lasting quality as a sustainable alternative to fabrics made with elastomer yarns that cannot be recycled.
Exclusively available from Apex Mills, the OutStretch™ fabric collection is a USA-made breakthrough offering exceptional stretch that doesn’t degrade, ensuring superior durability, comfort, moisture-wicking, shape retention and recyclability. Other fabric features include high tensile strength, non-transparency, wrinkle and crease resistance and a soft, supple texture without pilling or “crunchiness” after 25 washings.
The collection has various finishes including fire resistance, antimicrobial/anti-odor protection, abrasion resistance and durable water repellency. It complies with the Berry Amendment, the USMCA Agreement, and the CAFTA-DR Agreement and is OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and ISO9001:2015 certified. www.apexmills.com
Teijin Frontier Expands European Fashion Business with Paris Showroom
Teijin Frontier Limited announced that its European subsidiary, Teijin Frontier Europe GmbH, has opened a new showroom in Paris with the aim of expanding its fashion business in the region. Launched in June 2024, the showroom displays Teijin Frontier’s fabric collection and products, which is centered on environmentally friendly and functional fibers. The collection includes the company’s ECOPET ® polyester fiber, made with recycled post-consumer polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and its ultra-soft and smooth SOLOTEX ® polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) fiber, as well as textiles and other products that use these fibers.
For more than 50 years, Fi-Tech has successfully worked with manufacturers of machines and key techical components used in the production of:
In addition to showcasing materials and disseminating information, the showroom will display applications in collaboration with Teijin Frontier’s Japanese suppliers and serve as an exhibition venue for their clients’ brands. The exhibits will change seasonally and align to evolving customer needs.
By opening a showroom in the fashion capital of the Western world, Teijin Frontier aims to increase its presence as a fiber supplier to the French and European markets. Furthermore, by encouraging customers to visit and learn about its products, Teijin Frontier hopes to uncover new needs and trends, which will be used to guide development of new products and solving customer issues. www.teijin.co.jp
Our customers trust us to provide the best quality and rely on our commitment to their needs when exploring new opportunities to grow and to improve their manufacturing businesses.
Equally, our suppliers highly value the service, dedication, and access to the markets we provide.
Teijin showroom Paris.
Apex Mills launches fabrics for super long-lasting stretch.
Pioneering the Future of Sustainable Textiles
India-Based Birla Cellulose is Leading the Industry with Sustainable Options and Innovation
By Arun Rao, Correspondent to India, IFJ
India-based Birla Cellulose is the recipient of the “Dark Green Shirt” ranking in Canopy’s Hot Button Report for four consecutive years. This recognition highlights the company’s strong commitment to sustainability, significant efforts in reducing its environmental impact, and their leadership in protecting endangered forests and reinforcing its role in advancing sustainable practices in the textile industry.
Innovation launched in the past two years that earned this award include Intellicolor, EcoSoft and SaFR. Birla Viscose Intellicolor was unveiled earlier this year, offering salt-free dyeing to address the long-standing challenge of conventional reactive dyeing.
EcoSoft is their luxurious bamboo viscose fiber derived from sustainably managed bamboo forests and fortified with FSC certification, thus “preserving nature’s rhythm” while crafting a fabric that caters to modern-day demands. Each EcoSoft creation comes with a molecular tracer transaction certificate, enhancing the fabric’s authenticity and building trust that reflects the company’s unwavering commitment to transparency.
Unveiled at ITMA Milan in 2023, Birla SaFR is a phosphate-based, sustainable cellulosic fiber, ideal for making flameretardant fabrics with exceptional performance and eco-friendly characteristics. H.K. Agarwal, managing director, Grasim Industries Ltd & business director,
Q+A
IN THIS ISSUE: H.K. AGARWAL
Managing Director, Grasim Industries & Business Director, Birla Cellulose
pulp & fiber business, stated, “Birla SaFR is the first flame-retardant fiber developed in India specifically for the technical textile segment. We take immense pride in knowing that our product will be used in various categories of protective wear, ultimately safeguarding lives.”
Birla Cellulose, a flagship division of the Aditya Birla Group, stands as a global leader in sustainable fiber solutions. Renowned for its commitment to environmental stewardship and innovation, the company specializes in the production of
high-quality cellulosic fibers, which are integral to a wide range of textiles.
The company has established itself as a pioneer in developing eco-friendly and technologically advanced fibers, catering to the evolving demands of the fashion and apparel industries. With a focus on integrating sustainability into every facet of its operations, Birla Cellulose is dedicated to advancing the future of textiles through responsible practices and cutting-edge technologies.
We spoke with H.K. Agarwal who delved into the vision for the future of sustainable textiles, the challenges faced in the industry, and the strategies driving Birla Cellulose’s success.
International Fiber Journal: Kindly provide a history about your company.
H.K. Agarwal: Birla Cellulose is a producer of manmade cellulosic fibers. It is a division of Grasim Industries, part of the US $100 billion Aditya Birla Group. It was founded in 1947 – the same year as India’s independence and established by GD Birla, founder and patriarch of the group and a close confidant of Mahatma Gandhi, who lead the movement for India’s independence. Anticipating the loss of key cotton regions to Pakistan, post partition of India, and with synthetic fibers still not available in India at that time, GD Birla chose to invest in manmade cellulosic fibers as an alternative to cotton, to meet the clothing needs of India’s large population.
IFJ: Please share details about your manufacturing infrastructure and annual capacity.
H.K. Agarwal: The first cellulose fiber plant was started in the central India state of Madhya Pradesh in Nagda with a capacity of just 5,000 tonnes. The company also started the process of indigenization of machinery, processes, equipment and raw materials. The current cellulose fiber capacity is now 1.25 million tonnes. Birla Cellulose now has four plants in India under Grasim which have a capacity of 850 KT and three plants outside India
IFJ: What are the core company products and solutions you offer for the market?
H.K. Agarwal: We manufacture several varieties of manmade cellulosic fiber like viscose staple fiber, Modal, dyed fiber, fire retardant fiber, short cut fiber, Lyocell fiber, etc. These fibers can be also used in the production of nonwovens. We also supply fibers based on the concept of circular textiles.
We specialize in sustainable, value-added fibers with a closed-loop manufacturing process that recycles chemicals and water. Our sulphur-free Lyocell product, Excel, is produced on three lines with plans for a fourth. Lyocell, offers high tenacity both dry and wet, closely mirroring cotton’s properties. It enhances softness, richness, and moisture absorption when blended with cotton, and thus complements cotton effectively.
IFJ: Do you offer any products in particular for the nonwovens sector?
H.K. Agarwal: For nonwoven applications, we provide standard fibers, short-cut fibers for flushable wipes, and spun-dyed viscose fibers. We also recently launched a fiber which is used in the top layer of feminine hygiene products. This top layer is normally produced through polymer fibers, but we are offering a biodegradable substitute, and it is gaining popularity among consumers in the U.S.
IFJ: Have you launched any new products recently or planning to in the near future?
H.K. Agarwal: At ITMA 2024 in Milan, Italy, we introduced our innovative flame-retardant fibers, ‘Birla SaFR,’ designed for use in protective clothing for firemen. At Bharat Tex 2024, India’s premier textile exhibition, we introduced ‘Intellicolor,’ an innovative fiber that eliminates the need for double dyeing in polyester/acrylic and cellulosic fiber blends.
In the traditional dyeing process, the fabric is dyed first for polyester in the fabric and then dyed for the second time for the cellulosic fiber content. So, the Intellicolor fiber blended with polyester/acrylic can be dyed in same/single bath ensuring huge savings in dyes, chemicals, water and energy while also minimizing the environmental impact. We are getting a very encouraging response for the Intellicolor fiber.
IFJ: What are the key trends in consumer demand and the growth trajectory of the global and Indian clothing market in context of cellulose fiber usage?
H.K. Agarwal: Cellulosic fiber accounts for 6 to 6.5 percent of overall global consumption of fibers, whereas cotton is about 25 percent, and the rest is accounted for by manmade fibers like polyester, nylon and
acrylic fibers. However, in India, cotton consumption is higher, whereas the use of cellulosic fibers matches the global average. Through innovation and business development; we’ve increased our market share of cellulosic fibers from 4.5 percent to 6-6.5 percent over the past six to seven years.
With stable cotton production, we anticipate a future increase in cellulosic fiber market share. As living standards and incomes rise, Indian consumers will prefer higher-quality fabrics as cellulosic fibers offer a soft texture and moisture absorption like cotton, complementing both cotton and synthetics.
IFJ : How is your R&D achieved in the development of innovations offered by your company?
H.K. Agarwal: Through our state-of-the-art Textile Research and Development Centre (TRADC), Birla Cellulose invests heavily in cutting-edge research to develop highquality, eco-friendly fibers and solutions tailored to meet the evolving needs of the global textile industry.
Our dynamic and active R&D team is dedicated to innovating new fiber technologies, improving product performance, and enhancing environmental sustainability. By leveraging advanced scientific research and technology, we strive to create sustainable and biodegradable fiber alternatives that reduce environmental impact.
Our R&D efforts also focus on optimizing manufacturing processes to achieve greater efficiency and lower resource
Birla Cellulose India Plant. Birla Cellulose
consumption, ensuring that our products not only meet but exceed industry standards for quality and sustainability.
IFJ: How is your company increasing per capita cellulose fiber consumption?
H.K. Agarwal: Nearly a decade ago, we introduced the LIVA brand, dedicated to upholding exceptional quality of cellulosic fibres at every stage, from spinning and weaving to dyeing and printing, for all our LIVA brand licensees. Today, women’s wear brands include the LIVA name on their clothing tags, as it enhances the marketing appeal of their apparel. The inclusion of LIVA has also contributed to increased awareness and attractiveness of cellulosic fibers, significantly boosting cellulosic fiber market share in India.
IFJ: What are the key trends and growth trajectory in consumer demand of the Indian clothing market?
H.K. Agarwal: Consumer awareness is increasing significantly regarding the choice and quality of garments. The millennial
generation is purchasing clothing more frequently, which is driving overall fiber consumption. Notably, the growth rate of fiber consumption in India is outpacing the global average. To support this expansion, we are introducing new and higherquality fiber products and actively educating and guiding the textile value chain to produce superior cellulosic fiber-based yarns and fabrics.
We have observed a growing trend of global brands sourcing from India, with nominations from nearly 125 Indian and international clothing brands, including renowned names like H&M, Walmart, and Target. Among Indian brands, we are proud to be nominated by brands of Aditya Birla Retail and Reliance Trends and other brands like W and Biba, among others.
Additionally, garment brands owned by Arvind Ltd and leading Indian home textile producers such as Welspun Living and Trident Ltd utilize our VSF and Lyocell fibers in their premium home products. The increasing application of cellulose fibers is driving our company’s growth, as we continue to meet the rising demand for sustainable and high-quality textile solutions.
IFJ: What were the main challenges faced by the cellulose fiber industry in 2023 and what more challenges do you foresee in the next few years?
H.K. Agarwal: 2023 was a tough and challenging year in India as well as other countries, primarily in the U.S. and the EU, both of which are the biggest importers of apparels. The Russia-Ukraine war led to high inflationary trends and higher interest costs, which impacted consumer spending on clothing. Now since the beginning of 2024, we are seeing a slow revival for demand for clothing, but the growth rate has still not reached the preCOVID levels.
Raw material prices like those of pulp and chemicals, as well as energy prices, have also gone up. Even logistics costs have gone up due to the Red Sea crisis. Future challenges include those related to environmental regulations becoming stricter. However, more clarity is required on those regulations.
IFJ: How important is the sustainability factor for your company?
H.K. Agarwal: Sustainability presents both challenges and opportunities for us. We are dedicated to reducing our carbon footprints and managing water consumption effectively. Globally, our plants are recognized as the lowest consumers of water among cellulose fiber manufacturers. We have implemented Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) technology at one of our plants, ensuring no wastewater is discharged into the environment. At another plant in India, we installed an advanced system that recovers nearly 70 percent of water from effluents. These initiatives have significantly reduced our water consumption over the past few years.
In addition to our water conservation efforts, we are focusing on reducing energy
Birla Cellulose Thialand Plant. Birla Cellulose
Birla Cellulose
consumption. We are transitioning from coal-based energy sources to non-fossilbased alternatives, such as renewables and bio-waste. This shift not only helps in reducing our carbon emissions but also supports global efforts towards cleaner and more sustainable energy solutions.
Apart from the process side, our products such as Livaeco, Liva Reviva, Birla Excel, Birla Purocel cater to diverse needs of the textile and nonwoven value chains. They are made from renewable resources certified for best practices and manufactured in facilities with closed-loop process.
Our commitment to sustainability extends beyond our operations. We actively engage with our supply chain partners to promote eco-friendly practices and support the development of sustainable products. By fostering innovation and collaboration, we aim to lead the industry towards a more sustainable future.
IFJ: How is Birla trying to increase per capita cellulose fiber consumption?
H.K. Agarwal: We continue to support and collaborate with the textile value chain, consistently introducing innovative variants and products derived from cellulosic fibers. Our LIVA platform has been instrumental in these efforts.
Currently, we are focusing on expanding the use of cellulosic fibers in new categories, which are traditionally made from 100 percent cotton or a cotton-polyester blend. By promoting the use of sustainable
and high-quality cellulosic fibers, we aim to drive a shift towards more eco-friendly home textiles, benefiting both consumers and the environment.
IFJ: Please share details of your presence in export markets.
H.K. Agarwal: Most of our exports are from our Thailand- or Indonesia-based plants as our Indian plants are mainly catering to the domestic market. However, we export a few specialty fibers from our Indian plants. We also supply to nonwoven producers in the U.S. and Europe.
IFJ: Any planned capacity expansion or new investments?
H.K. Agarwal: We recently completed a major expansion at one of our Indian plants by adding 220,000 tonnes of cellulosic fiber capacity. We are actively assessing opportunities for expansion and exploring options to enhance our fiber capacity.
IFJ: What are your expectations on future growth and opportunities for cellulose fibers in the Indian as well as overseas?
H.K. Agarwal: Birla Cellulose is fully committed to expanding the use of man-made cellulosic fibers in the textile industry by offering the highest-quality fibers, enabling manufacturers to provide superior products to their end consumers. We emphasize innovation in every aspect of our
Notably, the growth rate of fiber consumption in India is outpacing the global average.
operations, continuously researching and developing new and specialty fibers that offer enhanced functionality.
Our commitment to sustainability is unwavering. We are dedicated to making our operations more sustainable by focusing on circularity and reducing our environmental impact. This includes ongoing efforts to minimize water and energy consumption, as well as transitioning to renewable energy sources.
Through innovation, we aim to lead the industry towards a more sustainable future. By introducing cutting-edge fiber technologies and promoting the use of eco-friendly materials, we support the entire textile value chain in delivering exceptional quality and environmentally responsible products. Our LIVA platform is a testament to this commitment, providing a versatile and sustainable fiber solution that meets the diverse needs of the global textile market.
Birla Cellulose’s dedication to innovation and sustainability ensures that we remain at the forefront of the textile industry, driving positive change and setting new standards for quality and environmental stewardship.
Arun Rao started his career in the textile industry and has worked across the segments of spinning and weaving production. He forayed into the sales function, beginning with selling branded innerwear and graduated to selling clothing of wellknown brands. He then joined Fibre2fashion, a B2B textile website, as News Editor for seven years. Recently, he launched Taurus Communications, a PR & advertising agency focused on the textile industry value chain. With a love for journalism, he freelances for renowned textile magazines, along with managing the agency. He is the India foreign correspondent to the IFJ
Birla Cellulose China Plant. Birla Cellulose
Machinery Goes Digital
Technologies That Can Close the Loop From Fiber to Fiber
By Adrian Wilson, International Correspondent, IFJ
An emerging theme at the huge ITMA 2023 textile machinery exhibition held in Milan, Italy, last June, was the need for advanced technologies for the recycling of fibers and textiles.
By the time of the next edition of this major industry event, which will be held in Hannover, Germany, from September 16-22 2027, it’s likely that the space devoted to such technologies will be significantly expanded as a result of the current push to establish fiber-to-fiber recycling in automated closed loop manufacturing systems.
Two technology areas which were not featured to any noticeable extent at ITMA 2023 were systems for the successful sorting of textile waste prior to recycling – identified as a major bottleneck – and those for the chemical recycling of fiber-based materials that cannot be reprocessed via established and preferable mechanical technologies.
Sorting Goes Digital
At present, as far as textile sorting is concerned, NIR (near infrared) spectroscopy is widely employed, using handheld devices or sorting tables in which samples are exposed to electromagnetic waves to establish their chemical signature. With hyperspectral imaging, the detection of non-uniform materials on surfaces is also possible.
Advanced digital waste sorting technologies, however, developed to meet the needs of other industries already more advanced in recycling, such as metals, plastics, packaging and paper, are now being rapidly adopted for textiles and a leader in such technologies is Tomra, headquartered in Oslo, Norway.
This company specializes in waste management and material recovery systems with sensor-based sorting and grading technology and already has more than 110,000 installations in 100 markets operational globally. Employing 5,400
people around the world, Tomra has annual revenues of €1.4 billion.
Its Autosort sorting systems are based on flexible sensor configurations and for the sorting of textiles combine high precision near-infrared (NIR) and visual spectrometry sensors to separate whole materials by color and type.
Automated Sorting Installations
Tomra was the main technology provider to the world’s first fully scaled automated textile sorting facility, SIPtex, established in Malmö, Sweden in 2021, and this has provided valuable lessons for optimizing and reconfiguring technology for the industrial-scale sorting of post-consumer garments.
In addition to Tomra, automated sorting lines for textiles are also now being manufactured by Pellenc ST, of Pertuis, France, Picvisa, of Barcelona, Spain, and Valvan, of Menan, Belgium. Ten textile waste sorting lines are known to be
Tomra was the main technology provider to the world’s first fully scaled automated textile sorting facility, SIPtex, established in Malmö, Sweden in 2021.
Tomra
currently either fully established or in development in Europe.
In addition to SIPtex, this includes two in France at CETAI and Synergies, one in Germany at Soex, Texaid in Switzerland, LSJH in Finland, Wieland Textiles in Denmark, Coleo Recycling in Spain and the Salvation Army in the UK. In addition, the fully automated sorting, fiber recycling and preparation and nonwovens production line of Nouvelles Fibres Textiles was inaugurated in Amplepuis, France, in November 2023.
Building a Stream
The newly-established Tomra Textiles division of the Norwegian group is now teaming up with Carbios, headquartered in Clermont-Ferrand in the French Auvergne region, to establish a textile waste collection, sorting and preparation stream in Northern Europe.
The collected material will be prepared via Tomra technology and transported to the first commercial Carbios plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France, at a cost of €54 million. It will then be converted back to monomers for PET polyester fibers using the enzymatic depolymerization technology developed by Carbios.
“The textile industry has been optimized for cost and efficiency for centuries,” says Vibeke Krohn, head of Tomra Textiles. “Closing the gap means scaling all the elements of a circular value chain – from collection to sorting to recycling. Future recycling solutions depend on reliable access to feedstock and through this collaboration with Carbios we hope to stimulate the further investments needed to scale textile circularity.”
The Carbios process deconstructs any type of PET – the dominant polymer in bottles and trays, as well as textiles – into its basic monomers, which can then be reused to produce new PET fibers and plastics with equivalent quality to virgin.
Carbios already has take-off agreements with major apparel brands for the regenerated PET from its Longlaville plant, including On, Patagonia, Puma, PVH Corp., and Salomon, but in addition to operating its own plant, is seeking to establish it-
self as a leader in chemical PET recycling technology via licensing agreements.
Partnership in China
This July, Carbios signed an agreement with Zhink Group to establish a new PET polyester recycling plant in China.
Zhink Group is one of China’s Top 500 private enterprises and specializes in both PET polyester and textile production.
The two companies are planning a longterm partnership beginning with a first licensing contract to build a plant with a minimum annual processing capacity of 50,000 tons of prepared PET waste.
China is the world’s largest PET producer and also currently accounts for 78% of all recycled PET, at present largely from bottles.
Turkey as Near-Shore Partner
In August Turkey’s SASA announced that it is also in discussions with Carbios to license a PET biorecycling facility with an annual capacity of 100,000 tons that it will build and operate at its site in Adana.
“As a leading producer of polyester, it’s our duty to pave the way in terms of sustainability and environmental responsibility,” says SASA general manager Kemal Oz. “SASA needs to be a part of the recycling business and our partnership with Carbios reinforces our commitment to innovation to advance a circular economy for textiles.”
As the EU’s closest near-shore partner, Turkey is ideally positioned to lead the field in the conversion of fiber-to-fiber recycled materials into new products.
Tomra Autosort sorting systems for textiles combine high precision near-infrared (NIR) and visual spectrometry sensors. Tomra
The Carbios process deconstructs any type of PET into its basic monomers. Carbios
As the EU’s closest near-shore partner, Turkey is ideally positioned to lead the field in the conversion of fiber-to-fiber recycled materials into new products.
In fact, this is already happening, and it’s no surprise that many European machine builders are partnering with Turkey’s fiber and fabric manufacturers for the next big opportunity.
“With the creation of a major PET yarn and fiber manufacturing capacity on a European scale, we believe Turkey will play a pivotal role in the expanding textile market,” observes Carbios CEO Emmanuel Ladent. “Partnering with SASA is a natural fit for our international ambitions for licensing our biorecycling technology.”
SASA’s Ambitious Plans
This is only a component of SASA’s current ambitious plans that aim to see Turkey soon become entirely self-reliant in the raw materials for polyester production.
A new $1.5 billion SASA Polyester plant for purified terephthalic acid (PTA) is poised to come on stream this year in
Adana, with an annual capacity of 1,750,000 tons. In addition, the company, which is owned by Erdemoglu Holding, plans to have a second $400 million PET polyester fiber plant also operational before the end of this year, adding a further annual capacity of 402,500 tons.
This will instantly position Turkey as a net exporter of PET, rather than a net importer. Oz points out that raw materials self-reliance is how both South Korea and China strengthened, stabilized and significantly grew their textile industries.
Waste Management Interest
Finally, the UK has been announced as the latest potential location for a licensed Carbios enzymatic depolymerization PET recycling plant.
Doncaster-headquartered FCC Environment, one of the UK’s leading recycling and waste management companies,
has signed a letter of intent with Carbios to jointly study the implementation of a plant in the UK using the technology.
For Carbios, this confirms interest from the waste management sector, in addition to from plastic and fiber producers, and would mean a foothold for its technology in the UK.
“We need to think creatively about how we recover the value in materials that society no longer wants and textiles – as we know from our work promoting a reuse culture – pose a huge challenge,” says FCC Environment CEO Steve Longdon. “We are keen to explore with Carbios what contribution this technology could make to the UK circular economy and to examine further its place in the UK waste hierarchy from a firm evidence base.”
Adrian Wilson is an international correspondent for International Fiber Journal. He is a leading journalist covering fiber, filtration, nonwovens and technical textiles. He can be reached at adawilson@gmail.com.
Carbios enzymatic solutions for end-oflife of plastic and textile polymers have been successfully proven at the company’s demonstration plant in France. Carbios
Wearables
MBy Marie O’Mahony, Smart & Advanced Textiles Correspondent, IFJ
& Healthcare
ateriality is rising to the forefront in some of the latest research and development in wearables for healthcare applications. The Wearables Collective symposium co-hosted by the Royal College of Art and UC Davis held in March 2024 highlighted this, looking at the motivations and case studies across North America, Europe and Asia.
A number of drivers to this trend were identified during the symposium and the accompanying exhibition: The first is technological integration that is moving towards greater invisibility. The result here is wearables that look and feel more like regular clothing. A second impetus is coming from user-centred design that addresses how researchers
listen to the needs and preferences of users, then the mechanism for bringing the data into design. A third driver is textile designers and makers who are keenly interested in the possibilities of the e-textile structure to deliver in a way that makes the user want to engage. These are all interconnected prompting new forms of cooperation between the different stakeholders.
Dr. Jeanne Tan gave one of the keynote presentations titled “Intuitive surfaces with Artificial Intelligence and Knitted Textiles.” Dr. Tan is COO of the Laboratory of Artificial Intelligence in Design (AiDLab) and Professor of Fashion and Textiles at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University (HKPolyU). In her research, she focuses on the integration of
Professor Jeanne Tan's work with Polymeric Optical Fiber (POF) investigates the potential for surface pattern and texture in e-textiles. Marie O'Mahony
An interactive photonic dress has been equipped with a gyro sensor embedded in the motherboard to detect movement and change colour with the motion of the wearer’s body.
AI and textiles to create interactive materials for an array of applications including wearables and rehabilitation. Her perspective is that of a textile design practitioner, specifically looking at light-emitting etextiles with AI affording the user a highly intuitive experience. Textiles for her are a natural choice because of their omnipresence in people’s daily lives.
In one project, Tan has developed an intelligent textile system that is based on computer vision with deep learning and illuminating photonic knitted textiles. The light transmission is generated using a Polymeric Optical Fiber (POF), with light travelling through the core of the Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) fiber that is further enclosed in two sheath layers with the textile treated to allow light to travel from the core through the lateral sides of the fiber to become visible to the eye.
An integrated camera has the capability to receive images that are processed by a mini-computer with AI algorithms to provide feedback via different colored illumination. The smart textile can decipher specific imagery as commands, it can be produced as a stretched knit and with a range of surface patterns enhancing the comfort and haptic qualities.
A number of different use case investigations have been undertaken. In one, the technology has been adapted to fit the needs of users with gesture-recognition for multi-sensory rehabilitation using codesign between the therapists, users and caregivers. In another, an interactive photonic dress has been equipped with a gyro sensor embedded in the motherboard to detect movement and change color with the motion of the wearer’s body.
Researcher Robert Pettys-Baker presented a paper jointly written with Brad Holshuh both from the University of Minnesota on “Intention vs. Reality: Managing the sensory language of soft robotic skin stretch wearables.” The premise for this is the need to consider haptic experiences more holistically and without making assumptions about the wearer’s experiences. In the design of haptic skin stretch systems the aim is to develop products that produce sensations that are consistent for all users.
This relies on the creation of a device that works with the body to afford the intended perceptual, cognitive and emotional experience of a sensation. PettysBaker points out the tendency to prescriptively assign haptic sensations when
testing, proposing a better approach that would be to first conceptualise the user’s own subjective experience of the stimuli in their own words.
The researchers are addressing this by creating two iterations of a skin stretch device located on the forearm using Shape Memory Alloy (SMA) actuators with eyelet crimps utilizing a silicone backing layer for displacement of the skin with hook and eye attachments. In one device a hook and loop closure was used, with the second using a stretch fabric and zipper. The first device recorded a more nuanced set of responses with multiple unique touch sensations identified by participants. Primary, secondary and unique descriptors were noted, for example ‘localized squeeze/pinch’ [Primary], followed by ‘tickle’ [Secondary], then ‘cat licking arm’ [Unique Descriptor]. In contrast, the second device received single descriptors for example ‘squeeze/pinch’.
Half of the participants using both devices reported the sensations to be unique and not a readily identifiable touch sensation that they tend to think about. The authors note that “a device might work, might be generally liked, but that does not confirm true efficacy without true consideration of the user.” The outcome is being used to inform the design, materials and the type of closure for the next iteration where the focus will be on a refined design and more detailed perceptive testing of the haptic qualities. At UC-Davis Hafsa Akter presented a research paper
Organizers and Speakers at the Wearables Collective symposium held at US Davis march 2024. Marie O'Mahony
written jointly with Gozde Goncu-Berk on “Cocoon – A Novel Smart Hospital Gown for Toddler Patients.” There are an estimated four million young children (0-4 years) admitted to inpatient care in North America each year, with around 5% of ER visits resulting in hospitalization according to the Agency of Healthcare Research and Quality (AHRQ).
As hospital gowns play an important role in the toddler’s experience, the study presented is directed at improving the gown’s functionality, usability and comfort as well as overcoming issues around poor fit, reduced mobility and rejection by child patients. The work brings together different stakeholder perspectives such as the patient and caregiver as well as the healthcare professional. Parents described the loose fit of one-piece gowns as more uncomfortable for their children researchers found during interviews, with the reason attributed to the unfamiliarity of the form and its fit compared with the childrens’ regular clothing. Sensorial and thermal comfort needs were also highlighted by parents, while for nurses easy access for pulse oximeters is a key design problem.
A design that would allow for the nonintrusive monitoring of vital signs was identified as offering an improvement to the patient’s physical and emotional wellbeing during hospital stays. The researchers have set about developing two designs. The first is a novel smart gown incorporating e-textile-based signal transmission lines to attach devices such as ECG/Apnea monitoring electrodes. The second item is for a bootie for thermal comfort with an embedded POF-based sensor pulseoximeter to allow for the non-intrusive monitoring of oxygen saturation levels. The discussion and feedback process continued through the development, taking on board nurses’ suggestion to color-code snaps to enable easy donning/doffing. The color system was also used for navigating closures with the right side red, left sides yellow and a QR code for video instructions printed inside each gown.
Dr. Laura Davendorf is an Assistant Professor at the Atlas Institute at University of Colorado, Boulder where she
directs the Unstable Institute. Positioning herself as an artist, computer scientist as well as design researcher, she explores the counterfactual narrative around “what if” questions: “What is the purpose of the Anthropocene, we’re not getting what we want might be exactly what we need.”
Her presentation “Weaving and counterfactual narratives of technical progress” considers questions such as how might
our relationship with devices change if we hand-crafted them with fiber, mended them with thin metals and sought out ways of adapting them to our changing bodies with crochet hooks. Underpinned by complex weaving, the practice of creating complex 3D, electronic, hybrid and robotic structures, she mixes historical textile narratives with current practice such as artist-in-residence at her lab. Davendorf’s aim is to craft a technology narrative that emphasizes humility, care and a sense of community with the AdaCAD open-source complex weaving toolkit and its international community network at its core.
The Experimental Weaving Residency was established in 2019 with the intention of fostering a spirit of exploration and collaboration between textile designers, artists, programmers and open-sourcing new techniques in textile fabrication. Elizabeth Meiklejohn took up the residency in 2023, working with Irene Posch and Davendorf to develop project ideas.
With the focus on process and community cooperation, a form of design bookkeeping was established. This included detailed notes directed at a future self that might one day want to extend the work, so that the bookkeeping is not simply a documentation of the techniques, but also a recording the ‘why’ of the decision making: “This is the only weft sequence that will work!” This process of community sharing and feedback is gaining traction
In the exhibition accompanying the symposium Hafsa Akter and Gozde Goncu-Berk showed their development and prototype for a smart hospital gown for toddler patients. Marie O'Mahony
The final outcomes and processes of Elizabeth Meikljohn's residency are well documented in the "Experimental Weaving Residency 2023" catalogue that is available to download online. Marie O'Mahony
in a sector that is particularly guarded of its IP as much in academia as in industry.
Traditional weaving as a basis for woven pleated e-textiles is the subject of Bine Roth (RCA) and Dr. Kaori Ueda’s (Saga University) research discussed in their joint paper “Nishijin Weaving and Pleating to Create Textile Sensors.” The work looks at ways of creating stretch in weave to move more easily with the body, as an alternative to knitted structures. The
Bine Roth and Kaori Ueda's Japanese jacquard woven patterns having been dipped in hot water to create the origami structures that offer a woven alternative to knit fo stretch wearables. Marie O'Mahony
main challenge is in using the traditional weave to craft sensors that unfold and align easily with the movement of the wearer with the potential for use in movement tracking for health applications. Nishijin weaving is a Japanese technique that uses hatcho nenshi (involving significant twisting of silk yarn that shrinks when immersed in hot water) and creating a doubleweave structure with a brocade-like texture. Used here, the high-twist yarn allows the material to “shrink” into the pleated structure with the conductive thread also responding to
the heat causing it to contract, effectively giving the fabric the properties of a shape memory material. The addition of sensors monitor body movement or vital signs, with the well-defined folds allowing for accuracy in localized sensing placement within a finished garment.
Materiality is a vital component in comfort and user-engagement for wearables, and there is no single way to achieving this. Academia brings a particular lens to bear on how these questions are looked at and in solution-finding to the benefit of the whole sector.
Dr. Marie O’Mahony is an industry consultant, author and academic, the author of several books on advanced and smart textiles published by Thames and Hudson. She can be contacted at marie.consultant@ gmail.com or https://www.linkedin.com/in/ dr-marie-o-mahony-94776836.
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Prolonging Product Lifecycles for a Sustainable Tomorrow
Exploring Durability and Innovation within the Textile Industry
By Caryn Smith, Chief Content Officer and Publisher, IFJ
Durability is a key textile industry initiative in the drive towards sustainability. This idea triggered Stefan Hauser, Founder & CEO of Brakeable, to pursue a way to help textile and product manufacturers identify and correct design and materials flaws. He was inspired by flaws in his own well-worn and well-loved backpack (seen above). He had a hunch that there were others like himself frustrated with inadequacies in favorite textile goods. Further, he felt that if products were constructed to last longer, people would benefit from this, the environment would benefit and it would increase brand loyalty. Hauser believed that the consumer and manufacturer could accomplish this together through a communication tool to identify those defects, repair them and/or enable the manufacturer to make a better version in the future.
Brakeable’s
Stefan Hauser, Founder & CEO, Kim Schmidt, CPO, and Marc Berli, Co-Founder & CTO inspecting a damaged textile. Brakeable
Building on Experience
The result is Inspector By Brakeable®, a platform for consumers and brands to connect about manufactured textile goods. Consumers identify the flaw through a photo upload and description in the Brakeable platform. Brands track product defects identified by consumers, and act accordingly.
The platform has spurred companies to think differently about defects in their products. Instead of being a negative, they can turn it into a positive, offering the ability for a consumer to repair the damaged part themselves to extend the life of their textile goods – something that next generation consumers value. The result is better made products, opportunity to sell parts for a DIY repair, a greater degree of loyalty for the brand, and increased customer service for the consumer.
Hauser’s motivation for Brakeable was inspired by his interests and work experience. “My background is rooted in sports, climbing, kiteboarding, and splitboarding, which naturally led me to study sports equipment,” says Hauser. “After working with a major Swiss outdoor brand for several years, I decided to start my own venture. I was fascinated by the potential to enhance the interaction between consumers and brands. Initially, we focused on market research and prototyping, but we soon realized that customer support offered the greatest opportunity to drive meaningful change and deliver value to both businesses and their customers.”
Over a three-year span, along with Brakeable team members Marc Berli, Co-Founder & CTO, and Kim Schmidt, CPO, they have developed and tested versions of the technology. “Em-
Stefan Hauser Founder & CEO Brakeable
bracing AI from the outset has been crucial in capturing and processing information, offering extensive possibilities and advantages,” Hauser says. “We began by validating our core hypotheses with a pilot customer, which proved to be a successful approach. From this initial functional prototype, we developed a robust versatile platform designed to drive efficiency and transform customer support from a cost center into a value-driving hub. We’re proud to deliver a unique customer experience and efficiency gains, that sets us apart from competitors and is challenging to replicate.”
With environmental concerns topping the list for the textile industry, Brakeable offers a timely solution for brands to showcase their efforts to consumers.
With Hauser and his team making the rounds at various expos, they have gotten attention of consumers and retailers. It’s ease of use, report ability and interactive nature is attractive for retailers who desire to serve their loyal following, and allows a way for that loyal customer to interact their favorite brand. “Our platform provides a seamless self-service solution that integrates smoothly into clients’ existing systems,” says Hauser.
“It features several modules that continuously assist companies in optimizing their operations and effectively leveraging insights,” he says. The modules include Repair, Warranty, DIY and Feedback, where the brand chooses the engagement tool to use with the consumer. “This comprehensive approach ensures that our clients can efficiently manage customer interactions and improve their overall service delivery.”
The reception of Brakeable has been overwhelmingly positive. Consumers often remark on the speed and efficiency of the service, while companies appreciate the diverse benefits it provides, serving multiple roles in the internal value chain. “Customer Support Departments value the reduction in manual requests,” says Hauser, “while the Sales Departments benefit from insights that can drive additional sales, and Product and Supply Chain teams gain valuable information on product quality, which was a key focus when we launched our startup.”
“Durability comes in two forms: physical, which refers to a product’s ability to withstand mechanical stress, and emotional, which pertains to the lasting connection users have with their products. The DIY activities enhance emotional durability by fostering a deeper personal connection to the product,” emphasizes Hauser, “Making DIY options and spare parts as accessible as purchasing a new product will support prolonged use and contribute to greater sustainability. Design for repairability is the foundation for all of these activities.”
To understand the lasting benefits of Brakeable, Hauser and his team work to educate brands and consumers on the impact they hope to ultimately make – durability and longevity to lessen the global issue of textile waste1. Here are their key points.
The Bottom Line of Durability and Longevity
The global “Fast Moving Consumer Goods” (FMCG) industry is witnessing a rising tide of ecological challenges that demand profound transformations towards sustainability. Setting the scene in the textile industry, one must first understand key concepts of sustainability and the crucial part Brakeable can play to help leverage the benefits of the product lifecycle expansion.
Exploring how the product durability and use phase longevity intersect with aspects of sustainability, Brakeable differentiates between product-circularity and material-circularity while supporting the strategy of prolonging the use-phase of products (Figure 1) to brake the fast-paced FMCG market.
Tackling Known Textile Industry Issues
The textile industry looms large on the environmental canvas by creating CO2 emissions, leaving significant footprints in water consumption, and ultimately generating waste.
Brakeable Founder/CEO Stefan Hauser (right) and Co-founder/CTO Marc Berli (left) at the Techtextil Frankfurt 2023. In the forefront is the backpack that inspired Inspector by Brakeable® Caryn Smith
CO2 case study results. Brakeable Research with VAUDE and DITF - 2024
Figure 1
Textiles contribute to 10% of global CO2 emissions, surpassing those of international aviation and maritime shipping combined. 77% of these emissions come from global clothing manufacturing. Furthermore, over 14 million tons of microplastics litter the ocean floor, with up to 500,000 tons originating from textiles annually. Extending the use-phase of textiles by just 9 months could unlock savings of up to 27% in CO2, 33% in water, and 22% in waste2
The multifaceted concept of sustainability is comprised of a triad of social (fair labor practices), economic (exchange of shortterm capitalism in favor of long-term responsibility), and ecological (eco-friendly production processes) dimensions. The synergy of these dimensions is crucial for true sustainability3. The UN Sustainable Development Goals refine the aspects of sustainability further, where use-phase longevity particularly impacts SDG 12 –Sustainable Consumption and Production, SDG 6 – Clean Water and Sanitation, and SDG 13 – Reducing Carbon emissions.
Durability Over FMCG
Embracing long-lasting products lowers the need for frequent replacements, translating to reduced resource consumption and waste. Hence, durability and longevity not only bolster economic sustainability but also decrease environmental impacts.
Fueling factors, according to studies, Gen Z consumers will expect brands to act authentically, improve their eco-credentials and interact with brands who engage in unique content and digital experiences. Gen Z demands transparency and conscious consumption4. Their selections mirror informed choices, reshaping consumption norms of today. Product durability reflects a commitment to quality craftsmanship and responsible consumption for brand consumers of tomorrow.
Domino Effect of Longevity
A sustainable shift across the product value chain involves transitioning from linear to circular economies, where extending the lifecycle of products becomes essential. These circular systems encompass both material and product circularity, with a pivotal role played by Brakeable, which enables companies to understand their products from a consumer’s point of view.
This fosters a sustainable and responsible approach to consumption and centers on the product strategies of sharing, leasing, reusing, repairing, refurbishing, and recycling of existing materials and products. This phase unfolds during the product circularity, encompassing activities like wearing, washing, and maintenance, all with the goal of maximizing the product’s lifespan.
It is time for industries to step up and make a lasting impact. Companies that champion quality and longevity are financially rewarded in many ways. Waste reduction and deeper consumer loyalty and patronage provide a profitable path forward to those who seize this innovative opportunity, thereby enjoying enhanced competitiveness5 and visionary profit-building.
Brakeable Puts the Brakes on the Cycle
With the case made, Hauser and his team believe it is time for consumers and brands to extend the life of useful textile products.
Embracing long-lasting products lowers the need for frequent replacements, translating to reduced resource consumption and waste.
“With the Inspector By Brakeable® platform,” says Hauser, “an unprecedented way of measuring product quality and longevity sets the stage to amplify longevity across industries. We collect insights around product use and defects from consumers during the use-phase, to enable brands to choose the right product strategy, product design and communication means, to support maximal use-time and utility.”
It pioneers a new method towards sustainability through:
1. Prolonged Product Lifespan: By assessing quality and durability, Inspector fosters the creation of longer-lasting products.
3. Quality and Durability Assessment: Brakeable empowers companies to monitor quality and address potential issues proactively.
4. Value Amplification: Enhanced quality and durability elevate brand reputation and pricing, while consumers enjoy higher-quality, sustainable textiles.
5. Alignment with Regulations: In an era of impending regulations like the Green Claim Directive and Eco-Design Directive, Brakeable stands as a partner to facilitate sustainable transformations.
What's Next for Team Brakeable
Pushing further to expand their impact, the team at Brakeable is embarking on research and development of end-of-use research for rainjackets. “In collaboration with MID-Sweden University, we are exploring the ‘End-of-Use’ phase for rainjackets, an area that remains relatively unexplored,” shared Hauser. “Under the leadership of Judith Wallner, they are working with numerous outdoor brands to analyze the condition of discarded rainjackets. This research aims to provide insights that can prevent similar issues in future products. To maximize the value of this research, MidSweden is adapting our platform to handle large volumes of data and extract relevant findings. We’re excited about the potential impact on sustainability and product development.”
Contact Stefan Hauser at stefan@brakeable.com to discuss how to supercharge your brand's journey towards sustainability.
1. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (23.11.2021). Design products to be used more and for longer. https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/ articles/designing-products-to-be-used-more-and-for-longer
2. Cooper, T., Hill, H., Kininmonth, J., Townsend, K. & Hughes, M. (2013). Design for Longevity Guidance on increasing the active life of clothing. WRAP , UK.
3. Kropp, A. (2019). Die Dimensionen der Nachhaltigkeit. In: Grundlagen der Nachhaltigen Entwicklung. Springer Gabler, Wiesbaden.
4. Grimm, A. & Malschinger, A. (2021). Green Marketing 4.0. Springer Gabler (1. Aufl. 2021).
5. Montalvo, C., Peck D. & Rietveld, E. (2016). A Longer Lifetime for Products: Benefits for Consumers and Companies. European Parliament.
Bio-Based Fiber Intermediates Market Poised for Lift-Off
By Geoff Fisher, European Editor, IFJ
The fiber intermediates market continues to grow with rising demand for textiles, automotive and packaging materials, but is increasingly being driven by sustainability concerns and environmental regulations. Fiber intermediates are the raw materials used in the production of synthetic fibers, principally polyester, polyamide, acrylic and polypropylene, as well as plastics, disinfectants and other industrial products.
Fiber intermediates include purified terephthalic acid, polyethylene, ethylene glycols (monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and triethylene glycol), ethylene oxide (ethoxylates, glycol ether and others), acrylonitrile, cyclohexanone, paraxylene, adipic acid and caprolactam.
Market Size
A recent report from Worldmetrics.org suggests that the global fiber intermediates market is projected to reach a value of US$61.6 billion by 2026. While AsiaPacific, especially China, is the dominant region for the production of fiber inter-
mediates with a share of more than 50%, the Middle East and Africa (MEA) region and India are forecast to be the fastest growing regions over the next few years.
The fiber intermediates market is expected to witness significant growth over the next few years owing to the rising demand for textiles and packaging materials, as well as growth in the automotive sector with greater use of lightweight materials.
PTA: Preferred Raw Material for Polyester
Paraxylene (also known as p-xylene) is an essential chemical in the polyester fiber production process, according to Alfa Chemistry, a global contract research organization headquartered in Holbrook, New York, USA. It is widely used as a feedstock for the manufacture of other industrial chemicals, notably terephthalic acid (TPA), purified terephthalic acid (PTA), and dimethyl terephthalate (DMT).
TPA, PTA and DMT are further used to make polyethylene terephthalate (PET) polyester, which is a polymer commonly
BASF is supplying Asahi Kasei’s Roica division with biomass balanced tetrahydrofuran to produce sustainable stretch fiber. BASF
Italy’s RadiciGroup has developed a range of Biofeel yarns made from bio-sourced materials, including polyethylene terephthalate, polylactic acid and polyamide, derived from agricultural feedstock not in competition with food chains. Shown here is a maxi dress made of Biofeel Eleven, produced on a sknitting machine. RadiciGroup
used to make polyester fibers and yarns, as well as major application in the packaging and automotive and industries.
PTA is the fastest growing segment of the fiber intermediates market and is expected to grow with a compound annual growth rate of around 10% to 2030, according to IndustryARC. It is the preferred raw material for polyester, which finds application in a wide range of products from clothing, furniture and upholstery, packaging, films and engineering plastics.
PET is a resin commonly made from the combination of two monomers, PTA and monoethylene glycol (MEG) to form the thermoplastic PET polymer through an esterification reaction. PET consists of 70% (mass percent) PTA and 30% MEG. As well as being a key component in the production of polyester fibers, MEG is also used in the manufacture of PET bottles and other packaging materials.
Increasing Urbanization
More than half of the world’s total PET production is destined for synthetic fibers, with bottle production accounting for around a third of global demand. (PET is generally referred to as polyester for textile applications, whereas the acronym PET is preferred for packaging.)
With polyester accounting for more than 50% of total global fiber production, the rising population, increasing urbanization and fast-changing fashion trends will continue to drive the consumption of polyester fiber-based clothing and home textiles, where the fiber’s key properties, such as durability, wrinkle resistance and easy care, make polyester fabric a preferred choice among consumers.
In addition, the increasing use of polyester in technical textiles, such as a automotive fabrics, medical textiles and geotextiles, will further increase the demand for fiber intermediates, as will growth in emerging markets, such as India, Southeast Asia and Africa, which are seeing increased urbanization, rising disposable incomes and rapid industrialization.
Acrylonitrile
Acrylonitrile is usually obtained by a catalytic ammoxidation process from
ammonia and propylene. It is an important monomer for synthetic fibers, such as acrylic and modacrylic fibers, which are typically used for the manufacture of knitted apparel.
Acrylonitrile can be prepared by radical vinyl polymerization, usually of acrylonitrile monomer and methyl acrylate, to produce polyacrylonitrile (PAN). PAN fiber is also one of the important precursor fibers for the manufacture of polymer carbon fibers.
Major Challenge
The major challenge facing the fiber intermediates industry is instability in the price of crude oil, which is a raw material for various petrochemicals and fiber intermediates.
And as a result of environmental concerns and increasingly stringent government regulations, the fiber intermediates market is seeing a shift toward sustainable and bio-based raw materials, together with the adoption of advanced manufacturing technologies to improve efficiency and reduce environmental impact.
Examples of more sustainable raw materials include the development of biobased PTA (bioPET), recycled PET (rPET) and bio-based acrylonitrile to cater to the increasing demand for “green” products.
bioPET and bioPTA
In the case of bioPET, the MEG fraction (bioMEG) is produced from renewable plant resources, such as ethanol from sugarcane, rather than fossil resources.
bioPET exhibits identical properties, such as high tensile strength, durability and mechanical stability, to conventional petrochemical PET. Further, it is 100% recyclable although not biodegradable. While bioMEG has long been available and has become increasingly popular, replacing petroleum-derived PTA with biomass-derived PTA has been a challenge. Several companies, using different technologies, are working to develop biorefinery operations that will deliver the PTA precursor paraxylene along with other products directly from plant feedstocks. For example, US-based renewables manufacturer Virent has developed a process to use plant-based paraxylene (bioPX) using sugar from corn that is converted to plant-based terephthalic acid (bioPTA), which Coca-Cola has used to produce a prototype 100% plant-based plastic bottle (excluding the cap and label).
Supply Chains Established
Meanwhile, Japan’s Marubeni and Idemitsu Kosan, together with Oriental Petrochemical Taiwan (OPTC) have agreed to establish a supply chain for bioPTA produced from biomass naphtha derived from plants, with production of bioPTA planned to begin later this year in Taiwan. Idemitsu Kosan will produce bioPX from biomass naphtha using the mass balance method. It will then be converted to bioPTA by OPTC, a PTA manufacturer under the Far Eastern New Century Group (a PET manufacturing company
in Taiwan). Marubeni will be coordinating the management of the supply chain’s establishment as well as the marketing of the bio-based products.
Japanese companies Mitsubishi, Suntory and Eneos are similarly collaborating on the development of a new, sustainable supply chain for PET bottles that have been derived from biomass using bioPX produced from Neste Re, supplied by Finland-based Neste, which is made from 100% bio-based raw waste and residues, including used cooking oil.
While most of these developments have been aimed at PET bottle production, it is more than likely that spinoffs into the fiber sector are not far away.
Biodegradable Polyester
A consortium of Senbis Polymer Innovations and several Dutch universities and research institutes plans to invest €6.6 million in the development of a new biodegradable polyester. Their research projects started in September 2023 and will run for three years. The consortium has already received a €3.3 million grant through the European Just Transition Funds.
In their BIOTT EK project, information is being gathered on what makes certain biopolymers biodegradable but also what makes them melt spinnable and achieve high performance, especially looking at molecular design and physical properties.
This insight will be used to develop new bio-polyesters that will be evaluated both analytically and through application testing via, for example, the melt spinning of fibers. Artificial intelligence is also being utilized to speed up the development and to provide new suggestions for molecular design.
Sustainable Stretch
Earlier this year, BASF announced that it is to expand production of several of its biomass-based raw materials that are key ingredients in the manufacture of elastane fibers, which are used for a wide range of textiles such as swimsuits, sportswear and underwear, and also outerwear such as shirts and stretch jeans.
The global chemicals giant is to increase the bio-based production of BMBCert (biomass balanced certified) 1,4-butanediol, tetrahydrofuran and polytetrahydrofuran (PolyTHF), all of which are used as raw materials in elastane production, at its flagship plant in Ludwigshafen, Germany, as well as at its facility in Geismar, Louisiana, USA. The BASF plant in Ulsan, South Korea, has also been certified for the production of PolyTHF.
BASF has been supplying biomass balanced tetrahydrofuran (THF BMB) to the Roica division of multinational Japanese company Asahi Kasei to produce its mass balance grade stretch elastane fiber under the Roica brand, which is used for sportswear and other textiles. This is claimed to
India’s Reliance Industries is amongst the largest global producers of fiber intermediates, which includes its purified terephthalic acid, ethylene glycols and ethylene oxide businesses.
result in an approximately 25% reduction in carbon dioxide emissions compared with Roica’s existing products.
Bio-based Scrylonitrile
Meanwhile, Ineos Nitriles has recently begun sales of Invireo, a new bio-based acrylonitrile, for the production of carbon fiber, which is used in the aerospace, automotive, healthcare and sporting sectors, and is also essential in the water treatment industry.
Invireo acrylonitrile is produced via a controlled and certified (ISCC+) mass balance route that offers a 90% reduction in carbon footprint compared with conventional acrylonitrile-based products, said Gordon Adams, business director for Ineos Nitriles, the world’s largest producer of acrylonitrile.
Earlier, Solvay and Trillium Renewable Chemicals signed a letter of intent to develop a supply chain for bio-based acrylonitrile for carbon fiber manufacturing. Trillium’s bio-ACN process delivers acrylonitrile from plant-based feedstocks such as glycerol with a lower carbon footprint.
Geoff Fisher is the European editor of International Fiber Journal and editorial director of UK-based Textile Media Services, a B2B publisher of news and market reports on transport textiles, medical textiles, smart materials and emerging markets. He has more than 35 years of experience covering fibers and technical textiles. He can be contacted at gfisher@ textilemedia.com or +44 7803 718443.
A consortium of Senbis and Dutch universities and research institutes plans to invest €6.6 million in the development of a new biodegradable polyester. Senbis Polymer Innovations
Reliance Industries
A Shared Vision
Driven Towards a Collaborative Approach in the Value Chain
Techtextil North America 2024 Offered Insights on Innovations, Challenges and Opportunities within the Industry
By Matt O'Sickey
Techtextil North America 2024 (TTNA), August 20-22 in Raleigh, North Carolina included a full slate of symposium and “on-the-floor” tech talks. The nonwoven portion was led by Dr. Raoul Farer of the Nonwovens Institute at North Carolina State University. Raoul presented snapshots of the growth nonwovens have experienced in all geographies and highlighted areas in which nonwoven fabrics have and continue to displace conventional woven textiles. It has been noted that in transportation applications, parts made with nonwoven fabrics and/or nonwoven-based composites are displacing heavier injection molded plastic parts (which previously displace metal parts in many cases).
Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi provided an overview of sustainability solutions within nonwovens with particular focus on nonwovens produced from polylactic acid (PLA). PLA is gaining traction as a sustainable raw material as availability increases, prices decrease, and more alternatives for blending with other polymer are identified. Polylactic acid that is both bio-sourced and potentially biodegradable making it a well established leading sustainable raw material.
In addition to the talks provided by the Nonwoven Institute faculty, a number of graduate students also presented their research, including Dominic Garcia who discussed thermal bonding of polyester fibers in nonwovens and the impact
of processing aids on bond integrity. From the Wilson College of Textiles, Nur Mazumder explored the quantification of potential PFAS exposure in firefighter turnout gear by layer. A key insight was the need to consider which layers of the protective garb present an enduring risk over many uses rather than simply quantifying PFAS content “fresh out of the box.”
In some cases, such as the thermal liner nonwoven, the layer is contaminated with PFAS during manufacturing, but this is mitigated after the first washing of the garment. Feyi Adenkunle demonstrated how yarn pullout tests, normally used to quantity fiber-to-fiber drag friction can be adapted to measure and predict adhesive laminate failures. Muneeb Tahir shared work in which PLA fibers can be made
even more sustainable with the inclusion of micronized soy hulls. These materials provide some level of reinforcement to the PLA fibers as they resemble “microsoy logs” in the PLA fiber matrix. Additionally, their presence may accelerate biodegradation of the PLA fibers.
The final student presentation looked beyond raw materials and considered how processing of textile fibers and yarns could be more sustainable. Michele Schmidt presented work in which polyester was dyed using supercritical carbon dioxide rather than water-based carriers. While acknowledging that the cost of using supercritical carbon dioxide that has characteristic of both liquids and gases is higher than that of water is was seen that color-fastness of the resultant fabrics was
Women Safety PPE Panel – Second from Left: Dr. Cassandra Kwon, Research Assistant Professor at Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, Melissa Dixon, Director of Product Management at National Safety Apparel, and Kelly Franko, Founder & President at Seraphina Safety Apparel & MFG. Left: Women’s PPE safety apparel failing fire testing. Vickie Smead
improved. This is in addition to obviating the need for water (up to seven gallons of water per t-shirt!).
Industrial Takes on Sustainability
Switching from academic to industrial innovations in sustainability, there was a particularly exciting presentation from Beth Esponnette of Un-Spun and Julie Rader of Walmart. They discussed a joint project to 3D spin apparel items in an approach that, while not quite “on-demand,” could enable local manufacture and greatly shorten the supply chain and inventory loads. It was noted that in addition to significant trim scrap in apparel manufacture, nearly 30% of apparel produced was not sold via primary markets and/or was scrapped.
The 3D spun apparel would nearly eliminate the trim waste in garment production. Enabling localized production would collapse long logistic channels, eliminating cost and environmental impacts. Finally, by collapsing logistics and enhancing response time to market demand, apparel waste can be reduced as what’s produced will better reflect current consumer desires. While fashionable prototypes were worn throughout the week at TTNA by Beth Esponnette, it is acknowledged that there are still challenges in scale-up of the technology, ensuring yarn supply, and unlocking finishing steps.
In addition to considering how to reduce apparel textile waste on the frontend, Professor Karen Leonas discussed the case and challenges of driving circu-
larity in post-consumer textile recycling. Amongst the challenges she noted were consumer education about apparel recycling, apparel textile fiber mix, unknown composition of minor fiber components, inconsistencies in “waste” apparel supply, variable market pull, and an overall lack of infrastructure. Noting that this remains a classic chicken-or-the-egg debate of whether infrastructure is needed before full-scale recycle can begin, she provided examples of apparel textile EPR legislation from California, Massachusetts, New York and the European Union that will
begin to force the issue by requiring that apparel textiles are not landfilled. For greater insight into the EU efforts, she provided excerpts from one her student’s (Caitlin Jones) research that categorized each EU nation’s readiness to meet the 2025 target dates of the 2022 EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. Professor Leonas also discussed technology improvements in artificial intelligence, near infrared fiber classification, and digital ID/product passports that are making the sorting of apparel waste easier and more reliable.
Also, on the topic of circularity, Xochil Herrera Scheer of The Chicago Pattern Maker led a lively panel discussion on Real World Circularity with Sean Su Circ Inc., Shane O’Toole of Origin Materials, and Bob Carswell of Material Return. Starting with the sometimes-loaded question of what does sustainability mean, each panelist gave their take and noted that circularity rarely equates with “zero waste” or “zero carbon emissions.” In the best-case scenario, there is still working loss that will occur.
Furthermore, when considering use of recycled fibers, occasionally there will be a need to augment with virgin materials. Some parties may use these arguments to imply that circularity is impractical or a failed recycling approach, while more pragmatic environmentalists will recognize the need for progress over perfection. Each participant noted two important considerations for companies entering the “circular economy” space – first, new entrants need to find some quick wins to
Vickie Smead
Vickie Smead
A greater emphasis is needed on including circularity considerations into the initial product designs to avoid unnecessary complications as fibers are reclaimed and reused. Both policy and educational efforts are needed to drive public awareness of circularity.
establish credibility, even if those wins are not the endgame goal of the technology, and second, it’s important to be cognizant to avoid taking sustainable materials and making an unsustainable end-product.
While the primary focus of their efforts is around the fibers, it’s critical to not lose sight of treatments, colorants, sizings, and other additives that may be included with recycled fibers. A greater emphasis is needed on including circularity considerations into the initial product designs to avoid unnecessary complications as fibers are reclaimed and reused. Both policy and educational efforts are needed to drive public awareness of circularity.
Functional Fabrics
Another panel session, Smart Threads and Healing Fibers, explored the topic of functional fibers, textiles, and fabrics. Jordan Schindler of Clothing 2.0, Jeff Margules of Norton Rose Fulbright US LLP, and Samantha Shintay of Hohenstein Institute explored the opportunities and challenges of using fibers and fabrics to deliver therapeutic solutions to the user. Selling of textiles with drug claims will generally require FDA approval, even if the drug is already FDA approved. This is due to the
concept that “old drugs” with new carriers, e.g., fibers, become “new drugs” in the eyes of the FDA. Such materials will also require drug facts labelling. On the other hand dietary supplements that do not claim disease treating attributes are not FDA regulated. However, the FTC monitors advertising of health products to avoid claim that are untrue, misleading, or unsubstantiated.
Samantha Shintay detailed many of the claim verification testing protocols that Hohenstein is involved with including but not limited to biocompatibility, cytotoxicity, skin irritation, chemical irritation, total digestion of fabrics to determine presence of various substances (e.g. heavy metals). It was suggested that for companies exploring the functional fabric space, that socks are often a good starting point since they are not likely to be in contact with membranes that may require more rigorous verifications. Finally, it was noted that when designing such materials, that end-of-life considerations become more important. For instance, how efficacious is the product after 25 washings and will the product require a regulated disposal channel or can it be disposed of in a manner typical to conventional apparel textiles?
A final panel session explored the challenges of providing textile PPE solutions for women in the workplace. Melissa Dixon of National Safety Apparel, Professor Cassandra Kwon of the Wilson College of Textiles at NCSU, and Kelly Franko of Seraphina Safety Apparel participated.
While sizing and availability are perhaps more commonly known challenges, it was revealing to learn that in some cases of high visibility PPE apparel, that there are minimum requirements for the area of reflective or otherwise highly visible fabric in the garment. This may result in PPE for persons of smaller frame being larger and/or more cumbersome than necessary, to the point of potentially impeding the person from performing their task safely.
Similarly, diversity in shape and more complex body shapes may require more sophisticated seaming to ensure the fit necessary for proper PPE performance. It was alarming to hear that less than 30% of female firefighters believed that their turnout gear fit well. Due to smaller order volumes, overseas producers are less willing to produce properly fitting PPE for women which has cost implications but also creates opportunities for domestic semi-custom production.
Overall, the various areas of innovation were exciting to learn about. A common theme throughout was the need for regulators and legislators to keep pace with changing market needs and the technical advances addressing those new needs. It was also clearly stated by many of the speakers and panelists that to meet the challenges, whether related to sustainability, trade, or ESG issues, a collaborative approach, entailing all elements of the value chain, was needed to ensure success in a timely manner.
Matt O’Sickey, PhD is Director of Education & Technical Affairs at INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry. Matt was previously Director of Technology for RKW-North America and Global Director of Market Development for Tredegar Film Products and may be reached at mosickey@ inda.org or +1 919 459-3748.
Vickie
Smead
Adhering to Solutions That Make a Difference
Industry Companies Share Adhesives and Binding Innovation
Many segments of the textile industry rely on adhesives and binders that securely hold a product together, in one way or another. From automotive, medical, hygiene and more, this seemingly invisible technology contributes to the critical success of products that are used by consumers daily. Adhesive and binding solutions are undergoing their own epiphany in the research and development to support the advancement of the products that utilize them, and industry wrestles with sustainability, durability and circularity.
IFJ highlights several companies who share their most recent news in our first edition of the IFJ Adhesives and Binding Roundup.
By Nick Carter, Head of Innovation Gottlieb Binder GmbH and Co. KG, Germany
iaper closures, which some consider as the humblest of diaper components, play a critical role in the design of disposable diapers and incontinence products. From newborn infants to adults, the closure system enables the liquid and solid management wizardry of a modern absorbent product to stay where it belongs and do what it is intended to do. To explore what the future “holds” for the diaper closure system, it is necessary to first consider the interesting co-evolution of the fastener with the diaper design itself.
As a starting point for this historical review, let us consider the classic cloth diaper. Properly folded and applied, a length of cotton material was secured using what was most commonly available, (i.e., simple shawl and coat pins). As clothing pins were not necessarily designed for such hygiene-inspired applications, there was the ever-present risk of an inadvertent pin stick or for the pin itself to disengage during use. The advent of “safety” pins in the mid to late 1840s, such as the specific diaper pin of Thomas Woodward in 1842 (notably, seven years before the Hunt and Rowley safety pins that we are familiar with today) was one of the first to improve the user experience while affording a unique performance advantage in fitting diapers. The advantage in performance came in allowing the diaper to be adjusted to the anatomical variances of the user by the simple placement of the safety pins. This approach to diaper closures was accepted practice for both the “Baby Boomer” and much of the “Gen X” generations.
The next historical landmark was the market migration to early reusable diaper hygiene chassis with disposable absorbent components of the late 1930s, followed by the antecedents of modern disposable diapers in the 1950s. Here, we see the market acceptance for integrated closure systems becoming more prevalent.
Whether the closure system was defined as tying together lengths of fabric, such as that of the Wilson patent from 1939, or the use of specialised macro-scale fasteners as described by Horowitz and Laser, we see a new trend occurring: defined horizontal closure placement on the belt line (across the waist) of the diaper. Two notable advancements in belt line closures of that time remain with us today – the use of adhesive-tape fasteners (e.g., Miller) and hook-and-loop fasteners (e.g., Brooks et al.). Both types of fasteners allowed for easier integration of closures in the waist band while also supporting consumer interest in aesthetic appeal. These types of fasteners also introduced the need for dedicated counterparts (or landing zones) to achieve reliable closure
and resistance to inadvertent opening. Hook-type structures require a durable loop fabric counterpart whereas adhesive tapes use a counterpart contact patch that is typically smooth and essentially fibre-free.
With the introduction of integrated closures in the disposable diaper, the issues of convenience in fastening improved, although another issue arose: how to achieve good fit and function of the diaper. This is a classic example of diaper closures affecting diaper function. With the belt line now taken care of and different diaper sizes becoming available to best manage different waist dimensions, the next issue to consider was the variance in the thigh dimensions of target users. Early approaches for improved fitment around the thigh involved manual adjustment of the “leg hole” by application of secondary fasteners, such as those found in the patent of Schaar. Whereas such adjustments improved the fit of the disposable diaper, it did require initial manual adjustment as well as proper retention of that adjustment during the
Our industry can benefit from a “back-to-basics” approach with an eye towards challenging our preconceptions of performance in the modern baby diaper.
use of the diaper. Alternative technologies came to the forefront that overcame such manual fitting steps, specifically though inclusion of elasticated fabrics, bands and filaments creating defined “leg cuff” structures. Looking at patents such as those of Buell and other related efforts of that time, we see a rapid adoption of, and improvement upon, the functionality of the leg cuff.
It is interesting to note that across the patents cited in this article, phrases such as “comfortable fit,” “easy adjustment” and “inexpensive construction” remain just as relevant today as they were at the time. To innovate in new directions, we can look to the past in view of the current status quo and focus on a compelling question: “Can the industry produce a product/closure fixture that ensures flexibility and enhanced fit while reducing the environmental impact and conserving resources?”
Our industry can benefit from a “backto-basics” approach with an eye towards challenging our preconceptions of performance in the modern baby diaper. Landing zone structures require more manufacturing steps, logistical management, levels of resource consumption (both in fabrication and shipping) and
waste/quality control requirements. Why is a landing zone still required in the modern baby diaper closure system? Incontinence management manufacturers have explored ways of using a “hook on backsheet” approach to enhance the fit on an adult.
Whereas incontinence products are intentionally produced using far more robust fabrics to account for stresses resulting from an active user, baby diapers have not developed in a comparable way. Baby diapers show the side effects of applied downgauging/lighter weight materials, particularly in the nonwoven fabric layers of the diaper, as part of continuous cost reduction. For example, we now have back sheet structures that have spunbond facing layers of 15 gsm or less. With such low basis weights, the diaper chassis has limited structure for a fastener to engage and still achieve reliable closure performance.
To address the above scenario, Gottlieb Binder has combined new perspectives with fresh knowledge to introduce a new solution to a historical challenge in diaper performance. Drawing on years of conventional hook and loop experience in hygiene applications, together with knowledge of how to specifically al-
ter the performance of micro-scale structures, a series of new hook-type fasteners are now available in both conventional and bio-sourced/biodegradable technologies. This series of fasteners incorporates uniquely formed engagement elements that embody the attributes of flexibility and durability to allow enhanced “grab and hold” behavior with typical spunmelt fabrics. Continuing the evolution of these “Hook Anywhere” designs allow for high shear force performance to keep the closure closed under load, yet provides an opening/repositioning force without creating undo stresses on the back sheet’s fibre/filaments. As the adjoining table shows, peel and shear strengths are achieved without the need for a defined landing zone, simplifying diaper designs and production.
The “Hook Anywhere” fastener from Binder offers a new direction in diaper closures. Achieving fit and functional performance – which is and always has been a challenge and core focus of diaper designers throughout the years – is now possible using a fixture system that engages anywhere on the diaper. The product’s flexibility and its optional biobased content will be a catalyst for each link of the supply chain. Such an evolution of the humble closure should be just one contribution towards products that are truly “ready for the future.”
Visit Gottlieb Binder at https://www. binder.de.
Nick Carter has 35+ years in the advancement and placement of technical products in B2B markets, including more than 24 years in the nonwoven industry. Carter has served in key roles including intellectual property, new product development, research & development, business intelligence and marketing. He currently is in the role of head of innovation for binder where he is focused on commercialization of advanced fastener and closure systems. He is the inventor of 100+ patent concepts and a regular author/presenter of thoughtprovoking leadership articles directed at the hygiene industry.
Example of micro-scaled structure.
SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE DESIGN WITH ADHESIVES IN MIND
By Bostik, Inc. Technical Experts
n today’s market, textile manufacturers strive to enhance product sustainability while meeting high performance standards such as durability, breathability, waterproofness and softness. This sustainability focus stems from needing to address regulatory and societal pressures as well as corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiatives. However, adhesives are one component often overlooked in the sustainability journey primarily due to a lack of awareness and understanding about their impact. Instead, manufacturers may focus simply on whether the adhesive works without considering its broader impact on sustainability.
IIn fact, adhesives’ formulation, performance attributes and their impact at the end of a product’s life all influence textile manufacturing sustainability. By considering these elements during product development and throughout the product’s lifecycle, manufacturers can better design for sustainability.
Consider an Adhesive’s Formulation
An adhesive’s sustainability begins with its raw materials selection, which impacts chemistry selection for textile bonding applications. Water and solventbased adhesives provide various characteristics for textile bonding; however, they can use valuable resources (water), can contain VOCs (solvent) and require energy for evaporation (waste production) that impede sustainable design. When considering sustainable design, specialty hot melt adhesives (pellets, powders, webs and films) should be explored. In addition to reducing reliance on valuable resources and VOCs, they can be based on sustainable raw material sources, such as castor beans. For example, copolyamide hot melt adhesives (castor-based) are a great choice for more sustainable launder resistant bonding applications.
Consider an Adhesive’s Performance Attributes
Historically, certain materials, such as polyurethanes, PTFE and other petroleum-based solutions have been used in the textile industry, because they possess soft hand feel, elasticity and breathability characteristics. However, when designing for sustainability, manufacturers can consider other technologies. For example, copolyester chemistries can be designed to provide soft hand feel and elastic properties similar to that of polyurethanes while bringing monomaterial design into mind for polyester textiles. Although not an adhesive, a bio-based, breathable film membrane can pro -
vide breathability and elastic properties without relying on unsustainable fluorinated chemistry in PTFE.
Consider an Adhesive’s Ability to Influence a Product’s End of Life
Recycling and reuse of textiles are key trends in sustainable end-of-life design, and adhesives can be a factor in more complex textile products. Disassembly and monomaterial chemistry selection are common asks for all components
(including adhesives) of sustainable textile design. In addition to meeting performance requirements, thermoplastic specialty hot melts can offer material separation when subjected to high heat unlike thermosetting adhesives. While polyester and nylon monomaterial textile designs mitigate the need for disassembly and enhance material reusability, these designs may be difficult to achieve due to chemistry compatibility and performance. To combat this, consider copolyester and copolyamide adhesive chemistries. With similar raw materials, they can allow for flexibility in mechanical and/or chemical recycling.
By carefully selecting adhesives based on their formulation, performance and textile end-of-life impact, manufacturers can enhance their product sustainability efforts.
As an Arkema company, Bostik offers an unmatched range of specialty hot melt copolymers (pellets, powders, webs and films) to aid in sustainable textile design. These include:
• Castor bean bio-sourced adhesives for sustainable raw material selection.
• Soft hand feel copolyesters for monomaterial design and performance.
• Arkema Pebax® membrane for a sustainable alternative to PTFE membranes.
• Thermoplastic specialty hot melts for product disassembly.
To learn how these products can help you design for sustainability and get in touch with a Bostik expert at https:// tinyurl.com/munewmwn.
JOWAT CORPORATION ANNOUNCES NEW BIOBASED HOT MELT ADHESIVE TECHNOLOGY FOR IMPROVED SUSTAINABILITY
Jowat Corporation is proudly announcing the expansion of our biobased adhesive technology into the textile and product assembly markets. This biobased adhesive technology, known as GROW, replaces a high percentage of fossil-based ingredients with renewable resource ingredients for improved sustainability. This GROW biobased technology has been successfully used for two years in the packaging industry, and is now being offered for adhesives in the textile and other industries.
With GROW technology, Jowat is able to provide adhesive with up to 47% biobased content, and new formulas are being tested which will exceed 50% Biobased content. For a customer using 10,000 lbs. of adhesive per month, a Biobased adhesive can eliminate nearly 50,000 lbs. of fossil fuel-based ingredients, replacing them with renewable resourcebased ingredients.
While this improved sustainability is a welcome result, perhaps the most notable development is that this biobased adhesive requires no change in performance or processing requirements over fossil-based hot melt adhesive. It requires no change in equipment and is
a drop-in replacement for fossil-based adhesives.
“Sustainability has been an increasingly popular adhesive topic for several years, but has remained a challenge since most options require expensive upgrades to equipment of complicated processing changes,” said John Elder, VP Sales. “This biobased adhesive is the first real world solution, where manufacturers can substantially improve their manufacturing sustainability, immediately and without disruption to their existing adhesive application.”
This technology was initially proven successful in the packaging industry, where the GROW biobased adhesive
Jowatherm® PUR GROW 631.20 - Biobased polyurethane hot melt adhesive for sustainable textile lamination.
has been recognized as USDA Biobased Certified – the only hot melt adhesive to achieve this designation. This sustainability technology is now available to hot melt adhesive users in textile lamination and assembly applications, where Jowat can offer both biobased and recyclable hot melt adhesive technologies.
“Sustainability and concern for the environment is a topic that will only grow in importance for the manufacturing world,” said John Elder. Biobased adhesive can significantly reduce the use of fossil fuel, and these new developments finally offer a solution that performs without compromise.
For more information about biobased hot melt adhesive for improved sustainability, please contact Jowat Corporation at info@jowat.com, or visit us online at www.jowat.com.
MICHELMAN'S INNOVATIVE SOLUTIONS FOR TECHNICAL TEXTILES
Michelman’s Unyte® line represents a significant leap forward in technical textile technology. By offering a non-fluorinated range of water-based, environmentally friendly solutions that enhance multiple aspects of textile performance, Michelman enables manufacturers to create more durable, functional, and versatile products. Michelman’s comprehensive portfolio of products provide the ability to improve adhesion, water repellency, and other vital properties, both for synthetic and natural fibers, without relying on fluorinated compounds or substances of concern.
For the medical market, Unyte® 211 binds multiple layers of fabric together, improving durability and wet strength, allowing medical wipes to withstand stringent performance requirements in a medical setting.
Our next-generation binder for UltraHigh Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) balances bind strength and adhesion between ballistic fabric layers. The binder does not degrade or change performance when exposed to high heat conditions. Beyond binding, the fiber aids
in protection against bullets and sharp objects, protecting the wearer.
Polyimide-based Unyte® 620 is used for products that need to withstand high-heat applications. The product is heat stable up to 500ºC and retains the fiber’s adhesion properties. It also offers abrasion resistance.
As more emphasis is put on sustainability, not only do adhesion and bonding agents need to perform – there is a shift to biobased and biodegradable solutions. This aligns well for Michelman, a global developer and manufacturer of environmentally friendly materials across multiple markets. Michelman offers surface additives and polymeric binder
solutions for the fibers, technical textiles, composites, coatings, printing, and packaging markets.
Michelman’s expertise extends to a diverse range of applications, including ballistics, synthetics, polymeric and natural fibers, non-woven fabrics, and composites. In these applications, adhesion and binding performance are critical to the success of the specific application and its final use. Reach Michelman at www.michelman.com.
FIBER-TO-MATRIX ADHESION – Unyte® promotes adhesion between fibers and polymeric matrices, helping to improve various functional or mechanical properties. This increased fiber-to-matrix adhesion is beneficial to prepreg fabric for composites and multilayer systems that combine woven and nonwoven materials.
FIBER-TO-FIBER ADHESION – Unyte® offers multiple solutions that improve fiber-to-fiber adhesion. This improved binding of fibers creates a better structure for applications such as laid or woven scrim and pre-pregs.
Necessity for Nonwovens In The Bag
When Longevity is
a
By Adrian Wilson, International Correspondent, IFJ
urability is critical to the high performance of many nonwovens, and two of the most extremely demanding uses they are put to where a long life must be guaranteed is firstly as the filter media employed in industrial baghouses, and secondly, as geotextiles which are widely used in civil engineering projects.
DKing Coal
Despite the rapid expansion of renewable energy, surging electricity demand in major economies saw the world’s use of coal increase by 2.6% in 2023 to reach an alltime high, according to the International Energy Agency (IEA). A turning point, however, may now be on the horizon.
In China – which accounts for more than half of all global coal consumption – electricity generation from hydropower has been recovering in 2024 from exceptionally low levels in 2023. This, alongside the continued rapid deployment of solar
and wind, is significantly slowing down the growth in coal use in 2024.
Another major annual increase in China’s electricity demand, however, forecast at 6.5% in 2024, makes a decline in the country’s coal consumption unlikely. In the first half 2024, India’s coal consumption also climbed sharply.
Coal demand in Europe meanwhile continues on a downward trend, largely due to emissions reduction efforts in power generation and coal use has also been contracting significantly in the United States in recent years, although stronger
electricity demand and less switching from coal to natural gas threaten to slow this trend in 2024.
Boilers
Pulverized coal-fired boilers dominate the electric power industry, providing steam to drive the large turbines. The basic concept is to make use of the entire volume of the furnace for the combustion of solid fuels and as a consequence the coal, often with added biomass and other materials, is ground into fine grain, mixed with air and burned in the flue gas flow.
Most baghouses employ cylindrical filter bags that can be up to fourteen feet long and are usually needlepunched nonwovens or woven fabrics. Donaldson
Swedish companies ACG Kinna Automatic and ACG Nyström have this year delivered the first automated microfactory for the production of fully finished filter bags to a major international customer.
The coal contains mineral matter which is converted to ash during combustion and has to be removed at the furnace bottom in the baghouse, where the engineered durability of high-performance filter media is so critical.
Baghouses are not confined to the energy industry but are also installed in the plants of steel mills, pharmaceutical and chemical producers, food manufacturers and other industrial companies.
They came into widespread use in the late 1970s following the development of high-temperature fibers capable of withstanding temperatures of over 175°C.
These fibers include polyphenylene sulfide (PPS) meta-aramids and even higher performance polyimide (PI) and polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).
Efficiency
Baghouses typically have a particulate collection efficiency of 99% or better, even when particle size is very small. Most employ long, cylindrical filter bags that can be up to fourteen feet long and are usually needlepunched nonwovens or woven fabrics, reinforced with scrims. For applications where there is relatively low dust loading and gas temperatures are 170°C or less, pleated nonwoven cartridges can be used instead of bags.
The dust-laden coal gas enters the baghouse through hoppers and is directed into the baghouse where it is drawn through the bags – either on the inside or the outside depending on the cleaning method – and accumulates on the filter media surface until air can no longer move through it.
When sufficient pressure drop occurs, the cleaning process begins. Baghouses are very efficient particulate collectors because the dust cake is formed on the surface of the bags.
Cleaning methods can significantly influence how quickly filters clog and how often they need to be replaced.
In pulse-jet baghouses, where filters are cleaned with short bursts of compressed air, filter bags can last anywhere up to three years, while filters in reverseair and shaker systems, which use mechanical shaking or reverse air flow, need
to be changed less frequently, with intervals ranging from three to five years or even longer.
Substantial Contracts
A single contract for a coal plant baghouse can be substantial.
BWF Envirotec, for example, a major supplier of filter media headquartered in Offingen, Germany, lists amongst its references the contract supply of 16,640 of its needlona PTFE glass fiber nonwoven filter bags to a pulverized coal plant in Czech Republic, and a second contract to a similar plant in South Africa for the supply of no less than 36,960 needlona bags.
Geotextiles
Nonwoven geotextiles are meanwhile essential components in civil engineering projects, serving as a versatile material used for filtration, separation, reinforcement, protection and drainage.
Made primarily from polypropylene (PP) and polyester (PES), they are commonly used in applications such as road construction, embankments, retaining structures, landfills and for erosion control. Understanding the lifetime expectancy of nonwoven geotextiles is crucial for engineers and project managers to ensure the longevity and durability of the structures that need to be supported.
The lifespan of nonwoven geotextiles can vary widely depending on a number of factors including the material composition, and both PP and PES are inherently resistant to ultraviolet (UV) radiation while exhibiting chemical stability and mechanical strength.
Expectations
Continuous exposure to environmental factors such as UV radiation, temperature fluctuations, chemical exposure and biological activity, however, will still degrade nonwoven geotextiles over time, with UV radiation, for example, causing the fibers to become brittle and lose strength.
The mechanical stresses that geotextiles endure during installation and throughout their service life, including tension, compression and abrasion, can also impact their longevity, as can interaction with the surrounding soil, which may contain aggressive chemicals or microorganisms which can lead to chemical or biological degradation.
In medium-term applications where the geotextile is used for its mechanical properties over a moderate period, such as in road construction projects or certain types of embankments, life expectancy is up to 25 years, but in permanent installations where the geotextile is expected to function for the life of a structure, such as landfill liners, long-term erosion control and certain types of foundation stabilization, the expectancy is for a lifetime of up to 100 years.
All performance tests indicate this to be the case, but since nonwoven geotextiles were only introduced in the 1960s, full proof of this longevity will only be ultimately confirmed from an existing site in the future.
Integrity
Nonwoven polypropylene geotextiles have, however, been excavated from sites after 30 years and shown minimal degradation, indicating that they retain their
Gore low-emission filter bags have a PTFE-based seam tape that makes it virtually impossible for dust to leak through the stitch holes. Gore
structural integrity and continued to perform their intended functions effectively. The physical properties, such as tensile strength and puncture resistance, were found to be largely intact, demonstrating long-term durability.
Sources such as the Geosynthetics Handbook, published by the Geosynthetics Materials Association headquartered in Roseville, Minnesota, as well as studies by industry experts have documented similar findings, reinforcing the reliability of nonwoven geotextiles for subgrade stabilization in various environmental conditions. The use of geotextiles has also been shown to significantly extend the lifespan of road structures, reduce maintenance costs and improve overall performance.
Alternative Fibers
The durability of nonwoven geotextiles has recently become something of an issue, however, as manufacturers seek to use more sustainable alternatives to oilbased PP and PES fibers.
Geotextile manufacturer Naue, headquartered in Espelkamp, Germany, reports that it has recently introduced a high-performance range of nonwoven geotextiles called Secutex Green, which are available in a weight range of 300-1,000 gsm and based on biobased PLA (polylactic acid) fibers.
The Secutex Green range was developed in response to demands from speci-
fiers for products that are 100% plasticfree, but at the same time, guarantees of a long performance life of up to 50 years are required.
“The problem we face is that under the current European Union Construction Products Directive, geotextiles based on bioplastics, as well as recycled products, can only receive a durability rating of five years,” explains Chris Quirk, managing director of Naue Geosynthetics UK. “This is as opposed to fabrics based on virgin plastics like polypropylene which have proven durability.
“It means that our new PLA products can only be used in temporary works at present, although we know that PLA has far greater durability than the guarantee we are allowed to give.”
At the same time there is a rise in the application of bans on the use of plastics in construction works, notably in National
Parks in Europe, California and New Zealand.
“For some challenging applications, fossil-based plastic will always have to be used and there is good bio-based plastic too, but this is not yet understood by regulators,” Quirk says.
Bentofix Green
Such frustrations, however, are driving innovation at Naue, and its latest product launch is the patent-pending Bentofix Green, which is designed for sealing operations on ponds, streams, ditches, dams, rivers and banks.
Bentofix Green consists of a geosynthetic clay liner which sandwiches bentonite powder between carrier and cover layers of Secutex Green nonwovens.
Sodium bentonite powder is a highly effective waterproofing mineral and a one centimeter layer of it has a sealing effect of several decimeters.
Once the Bentofix Green has been installed and poured over, the bentonite begins to swell under the influence of moisture and forms a homogeneous sealing layer. Bentonite has the ability to close punctures or dry cracks on its own, so that a lasting sealing effect is achieved.
In effect the nonwoven layers are simply an installation aid, engineered to disappear over time – completely turning the tables on the usual requirement for durability in nonwoven geotextiles.
Adrian Wilson is an international correspondent for International Fiber Journal. He is a leading journalist covering fiber, filtration, nonwovens and technical textiles. He can be reached at adawilson@gmail.com.
Bentofix Green is a geosynthetic clay liner which sandwiches bentonite powder between carrier and cover layers of Secutex Green nonwovens. Naue
In permanent installations such as landfill liners, geotextiles are expected to retain their function for up to 100 years. GEOfabrics
At 2024 Hygienix, being held November 18-21, 2024 at the Renaissance Nashville Hotel in Nashville, TN, industry leaders will be sharing the future of consumer trends. Learn about what is shaping purchasing behaviors across the generations; discover the key factors that are influencing global markets; hear about opportunities in up-and-coming markets like pet care and wound care; and explore the latest insights in regulatory and legislative activities.
“For anyone involved in the hygiene or personal care product space the INDA’s preeminent Hygienix Conference is a must attend event,” emphasizes Tony Fragnito, President & CEO of INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry. “In addition to in-depth training opportunities, product and material innovations and compliance and regulatory updates, this event brings the major players in the industry together for business development and networking opportunities.”
Discussions
on discovery and innovation include:
■ Price Tiering - Value vs. Cost-Consciousness
■ Shipping & Trade Impacts
■ FemTech - Consumer Insights & Mobile App Technology
■ Period Poverty
■ Pet Care - Markets Worth Watching
■ Adult Care Innovations & Treatments
■ UN Plastics Treaty
■ PFAS Regulations
Furthermore, the Hygienix Expo attracts top tier companies showcase their innovations during the open networking event. Emerging companies have launched their brands at the expo, and take advantage of the “lightning talks,” where they can share their innovative ideas with the industry. The Hygienix Innovation Award®, which is announced at Hygienix, supports these efforts with an opportunity to apply for the coveted award acknowledges the top innovation of the year.
Participation at Hygienix also affords an opportunity to take a deep dive into education in the pre-show workshops. “In addition to two and a half days of talks covering market trends, advances in materials, shifts in the regulatory landscape, and
avenues to achieve more sustainable hygiene products,” says Matt O’Sickey, PhD, Director of Education & Technical Affairs at INDA, “Hygienix also includes three workshops on Monday afternoon before the welcome reception. These workshops cover absorbent system design and the specific challenges and opportunities in adult incontinent products, the changing landscape in menstrual care products, and an overview of the baby and infant care market provided by Diaper Testing International. These workshops and other INDA provided absorbent hygiene training events have helped kickstart the entrepreneurial efforts of new producers of absorbent products. It’s truly been a tale of going from the classroom to store shelves.”
To kick off the event, a discussion on the shifting sands of the hygiene world is explored. “I am honored to be moderating the opening session of Hygienix 2024, the first steps into our twoand half-day journey,” says Nick Carter, Head of Innovation at Gottlieb Binder GmbH & Co. KG. “This session ensures that conference attendees are well grounded in the overall status of the ever-evolving Hygiene industry in North America, while building a backdrop of how other key geographic markets are approaching absorbent hygiene product performance linked to sustainability enhancements. By the end of the session, we will have set
Greta Meyer, CEO/Co-founder of Sequel. The company was the 2023 Hygienix Innovation Award recipient. INDA
a framework of topics that each of the following talks will then further expand upon and develop.”
The event is crafted to ignite aspirations and goals for the industry, tempered with working examples of progress. “The goal we set for Hygienix 2024 is to deliver an agenda of forward-leaning perspectives and technologies that are balanced with practical, ‘here and now’ examples of commercial implementation,” Carter continues. The schedule includes speakers who will be sharing their real-world practices in advancing the absorbent hygiene product industry. “The intent is that attendees will return to their companies after the conference with expanded market understanding combined with actionable content that is both relevant and realistic.”
Panels and Sessions to Note
Tuesday, November 19
“The Sun Never Sets on the Hygiene World,” with moderator Nick Carter, Head of Innovation, Gottlieb Binder GmbH & Co:
■ Shifting Sands in the Global Economy for Absorbent Hygiene Products, with Pricie Hanna, Managing Partner, Price Hanna Consultants LLC
■ Latest Development of Disposable Hygiene Products Industry in China, with Ashley Wang, Deputy Executive Chief Editor of Tissue Paper & Disposable Products Magazine and China National Pulp and Paper Research Institute Co., Ltd., China National Household Paper Industry Association (CNHPIA)
■ The Intersection of Nonwovens, Sustainability, and the Environment: An African Perspective, with Raymond Chimhandamba, Director, Handas Consulting
“What’s Keeping Us Up at Night,” with moderator Kyra Dorsey, Ph.D., Principal, Glory Group LLC:
■ The United Nations Global Plastics Treaty: Looking at the Potential for Global Plastics Policies, with Wes Fisher, Director of Government Relations, INDA
■ Business Not as Usual – The Impact of Reusables on the Absorbent Hygiene Market, with Matt O’Sickey, Ph.D., Director of Education & Technical Affairs, INDA
Create better strategies with the latest intelligence. Advance your business with industry leaders. Make your plans to attend Hygienix today.
“The Four Rs in AHP Design: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle & Recover,” with moderator DeeAnn Nelson, Ph.D., Senior Innovation Manager, Front-End Nonwovens Innovation, Avgol Nonwovens:
■ Capitalizing on Capabilities to Support the Shifting Hygiene Industry, with Jelle Westerterp, Category Leader Global Hygiene, Glatfelter
■ Utilization in Hygienic Incontinence Articles, with Chris Nelson, Business Development Manager, Curt G. Joa, Inc.
■ Synergy of Components - Upstream Advancements Offering DownstreamSustainabilityOpportunities,withNickCarter, Head of Innovation, Gottlieb Binder GmbH & Co. KG
Wednesday, November 20
“It’s Not a Stretch to Have a Fully Sustainable Product,” with moderator Vinit Singh, Ph.D., Global Innovation Segment Manager, Glatfelter Sontara Old Hickory, Inc.:
■ Shifting to Sustainability: Natural Fibers in Diapers and the Rise of Eco Brands, with Richard Knowlson, Principal, RPK Consulting
■ Connecting Consumer Insights with AHPs: Designing Elastics & Naturality, with Marcel Gruendken, Ph.D, Senior Manager EMEA, MD&TS, R&D and Regulatory Affairs, Kuraray Europe GmbH
■ From Farm to Fiber: Developing Elastane with 70% Renewable Content, with Melissa Stewart, Ph.D., Vice PresidentProduct Management, The LYCRA Company
“We’ve Got Skin in This Game,” with moderator Pavan Maheswaram, Ph.D., Market & Product Development ManagerFibers, Americhem, Inc.:
■ The Menopausal Skin Microbiome – What Do You Need to Know? Kristin Neumann, M.D., CEO, MyMicrobiome GmbH
“Fundamentals of Absorption Systems and Opportunities in Adult Incontinence,” with moderator Jim Robinson, Principal, Absorbent Hygiene Insights, LLC
This unique workshop will provide attendees an overall view of the basic concepts of absorption systems used in disposable hygiene products, focusing on the components and interaction of the absorption system: SAP, fluff, adhesives, and acquisition layers. Attendees will have the opportunity to evaluate SAP absorption for different SAP’s, identify the presence of adhesives, and deconstruct and examine several hygiene products including infant, adult, and feminine hygiene products to increase their understanding of these systems.
Monday, November 18: Afternoon Session
“Innovations in Menstrual Care,” with moderator Heidi Beatty, Chief Executive Officer, Crown Abbey, LLC
This workshop will be a deep dive into period products, looking at the technologies as well as the change in attitudes that have driven the industry, to enable us develop better products for the future. Looking at this fascinating category
“Treatment Advancements & the True Cost of Incontinence,” with moderator Jim Robinson, Principal, Absorbent Hygiene Insights, LLC:
■ Latest Medical & Surgical Treatment for Incontinence, with Diane Newman, DNP, Adjunct Professor Of Urology In Surgery, University Of Pennsylvania, Division Of Urology
■ The High Cost of Adult Incontinence, with Andrew Stocking, Ph.D., CEO, Principle Business Enterprises
from the eyes of product development, what can the past teach us about the future? Traditionally, it was challenging to innovate in a “silent” category, when no one wanted to talk about period products. For the future, how can the latest fibers, formats and consumer trends all fit together to build a product roadmap for your brand? Which products being used today are an echo from previous generations? …What we refer to as the “old-new.” Have we done enough to break down the taboos around periods, and what more can we do?
Monday, November 18: Late Afternoon Session
“Baby and Infant Care Market Dynamics,” with moderator Natalia Richer, Market Research & AHP Consultant, Diaper Testing International
The Diaper Testing International team will be dissecting all diaper components from major leading US brands and share insights focusing on nonwoven GSM and trends, materials that contribute towards key performance metrics and overall aesthetics. In this one-hour webinar that team will share learnings between premium and value brands in the U.S., correlate to their experience with other markets and include an analysis on overnight products. Separate Fee.
Register now at www.hygienix.org.
“There’s an App for That, with moderator Heidi Beatty, Chief Executive Officer, Crown Abbey, LLC:
■ Nonwoven Period Care Products and an AI-backed Mobile Application to Diagnose Heavy Menstrual Bleeding, with Justyna Strzeszynska, Founder & CEO, Joii Ltd.
■ There’s an App for That! The New World of Incontinence Tech, with Rachel Braun Scherl, Managing Partner, Entrepreneur, SPARK Solutions For Growth
Thursday, November 21:
“Sustainable Solutions: Innovations in Bio-Based SAP,” with moderator Matt O’Sickey, Ph.D., Director of Education & Technical Affairs, INDA:
■ Exploring the Performance of Polyaspartic Acid Superabsorbents in Hygiene Products, with Jim Robinson, Principal, Absorbent Hygiene Insights, LLC
■ Comprehensive Sustainability in Hygiene Products: Exploring Biodegradable Alternatives and Circular Economy, with David Choi, Vice President - Marketing, SK Leaveo
■ The Final Frontier: A Bio-Based Source for Super Absorbents, with Louis Chapdelaine, Director of Consumer Products Development, ZymoChem
Each evening reception allows for networking around tabletop displays of leading industry companies. Find the list of exhibitors at https://www.hygienix.org/exhibitors.html. Register at https://www.hygienix.org
Suzano Completes Purchase of 15% Stake in Lenzing AG
Suzano, the world’s largest pulp producer, announced the completion of its acquisition of a 15% stake in Lenzing AG, the Vienna-listed leading global supplier of sustainable premium cellulosic fibers for the textile and non-wovens industry, from B&C Group. As announced in June this year, the transaction value is EUR 230 million (or EUR 39.70 per share). The agreement was subject to regulatory approval, which was granted without restrictions.
The long-term partnership between Suzano and B&C Group establishes that Suzano has the right to hold two seats on Lenzing’s Board and the option to acquire an additional 15% stake from B&C Group until the end of 2028. Following the sale of the 15% stake, B&C Group now holds 37.25% of Lenzing’s share capital. www.suzano.com.br
James T. Glerum, Jr. Appointed to the Board of Directors of Berry Global Group, Inc.
Berry Global Group, Inc. announced that James T. Glerum, Jr. has been appointed to its Board of Directors.
With multiple production facilities in South Carolina and one in Brownsville, Texas, this investment expands capacity to meet growing production needs. All products will continue to be made in the U.S. while supporting industries throughout North America, South America, and Europe.
The two companies provide a seamless solution for textile recycling, from highvolume to specialty custom fibers, across industries including automotive, apparel, bedding, and acoustic insulation. A greater raw material base and production capacity will expand sourcing options for customers seeking quality recycled fibers.
Glerum, age 64, retired as Vice Chairman, Investment Banking at Citigroup in July 2024. Prior to joining Citigroup in 2011, Glerum held senior leadership positions in investment banking at UBS and Credit Suisse in Chicago and New York City. Over his 40-year investment banking career, Glerum executed more than 325 corporate finance and strategic transactions with an aggregate value of over $500 billion. Glerum’s clients spanned multiple industry sectors, including manufacturing, healthcare, consumer and retail. Glerum serves on the board of trustees for several Midwest non-profit institutions, including Denison University, The Ravina Festival and The Griffin Museum of Science.
Glerum earned an M.B.A. from The Harvard Business School and a B.A., cum laude, in Economics and Mathematics from Denison University. www.berryglobal.com
RE&UP Wins ITMF Start-Up Award 2024
RE&UP Recycling Technologies, a leading innovator in scalable recycling solutions for Next-Gen fibers announced its recognition as one of the winners of the prestigious ITMF Start-up Award 2024. This esteemed accolade highlights RE&UP’s commitment to advancing more sustainable practices in the textile industry through groundbreaking recycling technologies.
The ITMF Start-up Award, presented annually by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), aims to honor start-ups that showcase innovative and transformative ideas poised to make a significant impact on the textile sector. This year’s award ceremony will be held during the ITMF & IAF Conference 2024 in September in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, co-hosted by the Uzbek Textile & Apparel Industry Association (UZTS).
Evonik and ICIG Complete Sale of Superabsorbents Business
Evonik has successfully completed the sale of its superabsorbents business unit to the International Chemical Investors Group (ICIG). The closing of the transaction took place on August 31, 2024, following approval by the competition authorities. Superabsorbents are powdered polymers that are used as absorbent materials in diapers and other hygiene products. The division generated sales of €892 million in 2023 and has around 1,000 employees. It includes three locations in Germany and two in the United States.
The unit is the second of a total of three parts of the Performance Materials divi-
sion that Evonik has put up for sale. Following the divestment of the Lülsdorf site and its associated businesses (also to ICIG) and the sale of the superabsorbent unit, only the former Performance Intermediates business line is left. Here, Evonik is currently sounding out the market situation for a possible start of the sales process.
ICIG is an experienced chemical investor based in Frankfurt am Main. Together with the superabsorbent activities, the Group now generates annual sales of well over €4 billion at around 50 locations worldwide and with more than 7,800 employees. www.evonik.com
Kimberly-Clark Factory to Close in North Wales
Around 300 jobs will be lost at Kimberly-Clark’s wet-wipe factory in Wales, UK after the company announced it will be closing next year. KC said the closing will take place in 2025 and is a result of the UK government’s ban of sale of wet wipes containing plastics from mid-2026. KC said phasing out plastics from baby wipes is part of their sustainability plan, but it wasn’t possible to adapt the manufacturing process in Flint, North Wales in time, and the factory was therefore not viable. www.kimberly-clark.com
World’s largest pulp producer Suzano has completed purchase of 15% stake in Lenzing AG.
Three Finalists to Compete for the 2024 RISE® Innovation Award
NDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the finalists for the 2024 RISE® Innovation Award. On October 1-2, technology scouts, product developers, and business development professionals will gather at the James B. Hunt, Jr. Library, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC, to explore groundbreaking nonwoven research and advancements. Finalists will present their innovations to RISE participants on Tuesday, October 1st. The Award winner will be revealed on Wednesday afternoon, October 2nd.
Meet the 2024 Award Finalists:
Dual-Layer Filtration Media by Ahlstrom Italia S.p.A. – Ahlstrom’s new duallayer filter media technology enhances engine air intake filtration performances, offering up to double the dust holding capacity and extending filter lifetime by
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over 50% compared to single-layer media. It also enables smaller, lighter filter designs, meeting current and future engine specifications, including fuel cells. Dual-layer filter media can be offered with flameretardant functionality for various transportation and industrial applications, ensuring safety, improved performances and reduced environmental impact.
ENDURA™ rPP Spunbond & SMS by Berry Global – A pre-consumer recycled Spunbond and SMS product, recognized by SCS Recycled Content Certification. With Spunbond products containing up to 90% recycled content and SMS products containing up to 40% recycled content, customers/consumers are provided a product with greenhouse gas emissions benefits, validated with life cycle assessment tools assumptions based on the actual production. ENDURA Spunbond products have the opportunity to reduce CO2 emissions per kilogram of production
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PlantPanel X by Hempitecture Inc. – PlantPanel X is a rigid continuous insulation material used in exterior aboveground applications. With an R Value of R3.25 per inch, PlantPanel adds to thermal and acoustic comfort and performance. Engineered with a density to resist compression and deflection, PlantPanel is used in split-insulation wall and roof assemblies with either a rain screen cladding or roofing material, depending on the application. With 100% biobased and recycled content, PlantPanel is a sustainable, low carbon continuous insulation solution that’s easy to install and safe to handle.
For more details, visit www.riseconf.net.
POLYMERS
PET/PBT/PBAT/PBS/PTT/PLA/PETG/PC/PA6/PA66..
RECYCLING
POLYMER: Physics / Chemistry
GAS & COAL CHEMICAL
BDO/EG/MeOH/Heat recovery and comprehensive u�liza�on HP
Hydrogen Peroxide, H2O2
R&D
Own R&D Center and pilot plant
ENGINEERING
Project EPC Contrac�ng (Turn-key)
POLYTEX is a professional chemical engineering company and technology supplier integra�ng R&D, engineering, equipment manufacturing, procurement and EPC management services. From technology licensing, project planning, equipment manufacturing and engineering design, procurement and construc�on management, as well as start-up and opera�on services, Polytex provides diversified services and one-stop solu�ons to customers all over the world.
