FIBERS, FILAMENTS & PROCESSING SOLUTIONS
ifj.com Issue 6 2023
Biobased Polymers What Will It Take?
CELLULOSE Exploring Waste Utilization RECYCLING France’s Extended Producer Responsibility Program CHINA Fast-Growing Carbon Fiber Marketplace
CONTENTS 2023 | VOL 37 | ISSUE 06
FEATURES
11 Solution Center: Fi-Tech 12 17 20 24 27 30
Showcasing solutions for success
Viability of Renewable Sources in Polymers
By Hafiz Muhammad Kaleem Ullah & Javier Vera Sorroche
Exploring Cellulose Waste Utilization By Marie O’Mahony
On the Cover: iStockphoto.com/greenleaf123/Duangphorn Wiriya
Extended Producer Responsibility in Action
By Adrian Wilson, International Correspondent, IFJ
Dornbirn GFC 2023: Resetting the Global Supply Chain By Geoff Fisher, European Editor, IFJ
Woven Narrow Fabrics for Applications Requiring Superior Properties By Ted Fetterman, Bally Ribbon Mills
China’s Fast-Growing Carbon Fiber Demand
12 32
By Jason Chen, China Correspondent
IFJ Buyer’s Guide 2024
COLUMNS & DEPARTMENTS
6 Viewpoint
New Places with a Great View By Caryn Smith, Chief Content Officer & Publisher, IFJ
8 Tech Spotlight
Lignin Coating Makes Geotextiles Made From Environmentally Friendly Natural Fibers Durable
17
Tech Notes 9 20 36 M&A Insights
New Technology Briefs To Tell the Truth
By Len LaPorta, Managing Director of Investment Banking, Wiley Bros.-Aintree Capital, LLC
38 Movers & Shakers
Industry News and Notes
8 27 24 2 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
BUYER’S GUIDE LUTIO
RCE FOR R RESOU
E 6 2023
36 IFJ ISSU
For Fiber Resources Visit: www.fiberjournal.com/buyers-guide
2024
QUALITY
SU PPLI E R
GUI S ’ R E Y U B
YOU
Your Complete Resource to Industry Companies Offering the Products & Services You Need!
ifj.com
NS
S
DE 9038
, FILA
NG SO
iStock/gyn
FIBERS
OCESSI
& PR MENTS
For Filtration Resources, Visit: www.filtnews.com/buyers-guide
NEW! THE BUYER’S GUIDE JUST GOT BETTER
Do You Want to Increase Your Company Exposure to Fiber & Filtration Professionals?
YOU GET 3X EXPOSURE IN PRINT GUIDE, DIGITAL GUIDE + SOCIAL MEDIA! Take advantage of this incredible way to be found among the best of the industry! w For $495, Standard Company Listings receive: •
• • • •
Up to 5 categories for a searchable listing + logo for 1 year in online guide Print listing + logo with categories listed in IFN or IFJ publication NEW: Buyer’s Guide link accessible from INDA.ORG website, increasing SEO NEW: Promotion of Buyer’s Guide on IFN & IFJ Social Media & in the Monthly E-Newsletter NEW: Digital Flipbook with clickable links on Home Page of IFN or IFJ websites
w For $995, Premiere Vendor Category Listings receive all the Standard Company Listings (listed left), with the additional value of: • • •
2023-2024
BUYER’S GUID 42 IFN ISSUE 4 2023
Up to 12 categories for a searchable listing + logo for 1 year in online guide NEW: New “Premiere Vendors” Buyer’s Guide landing webpage – only for this category – with clickable company logo. NEW: Two “Buyer’s Guide e-Promotions” with the logos of all “Premiere Vendors” (clickable) sent to IFN or IFJ promo lists
Choose from specialties in over 70 categories! IFN Buyer’s Guide for International Filtration News is printed in the July/August issue (Vol. 4). The listing runs for an entire year on www.filtnews.com/buyers-guide. Listing Due by April 19, 2024. IFJ Buyer’s Guide for International Fiber Journal is printed in the November/December issue (Vol. 6). The listing runs for an entire year on www.fiberjournal.com/buyers-guide. Listing Due by October 11, 2024.
WE’VE GOT IT COVERED
To advertise, email Advertising@Inda.Media for a Media Kit or visit us online at https://Inda.Media
1100 Crescent Green Ste. 115, Cary NC 27518 • advertising@inda.media • https://inda.media
E
CONTRIBUTORS | ISSUE 6 2023
For more than 50 years, Fi-Tech has successfully worked with manufacturers of machines and key techical components used in the production of:
Caryn Smith
Chief Content Officer & Publisher, INDA Media csmith@inda.org +1 239.225.6137
Hafiz Muhammad Kaleem Ullah R&D Project Manager CETI hafiz.kaleem@ceti.com
Javier Vera Sorroche Director, Polymer Business Unit CETI mueller-probandt@dienes.net javier.verasorroche@ceti.com
Polymers Synthetic Fibers Nonwovens Textiles & Technical Textiles Our customers trust us to provide the best quality and rely on our commitment to their needs when exploring new opportunities to grow and to improve their manufacturing businesses.
Adrian Wilson
Marie O’Mahony
Jason Chen
adawilson@gmail.com +44 7897.913134
marie.consultant@gmail.com
jasonchen200501@hotmail.com
International Correspondent, IFJ
Feature Writer, IFJ Visiting Professor, RCA, London
International Correspondent, IFJ
Equally, our suppliers highly value the service, dedication, and access to the markets we provide.
Let Fi-Tech be
“Your Global Connection” fi-tech.com 804-794-9615 sales@fi-tech.com
4 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
Ted Fetterman
Geoff Fisher
Bally Ribbon Mills
gfisher@textilemedia.com +44 1603.308158
Vice President, Sales & Marketing
European Editor, IFJ
Len LaPorta
Managing Director of Investment Banking Wiley Bros.-Aintree Capital llaporta@wileybros.com +1 615.782.4107
2024 CALL FOR CONTRIBUTORS International Fiber Journal is actively seeking contributed technical and thought leadership articles from qualified industry professionals and those allied to the fiber industry. If you would like to pitch an article for publication in IFJ, please contact Caryn Smith at csmith@inda.org or +1 239.225.6137.
Traditional and New Markets for Cellulose Fibres with The Fibre Year (CH), AFRY Management Consulting (FI) & Institut für Textiltechnik RWTH Aachen (DE) Cellulose Fibres at the Forefront of the Race to Replace Single-Use Plastic Products with Lenzing (AT) & Innofibre (CA)
1
RED
BY GIG
KA
RA
S
CELLULOSE FIBRE INNOVATION OF THE YEA R 2024 T E B Y
N
D
SP
SO
K
At the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2024, the nova-Institute will present the most successful cellulose-based solutions currently available on the market. First insights into the programme are available:
N
E
To combat the problem of microplastics, the European Union has issued regulations such as the Single Use Plastic Directive (SUPD). This is a great opportunity for the cellulose fibre sector. Sustainable materials used as alternatives to plastics, especially in the disposable sector, are very often based on cellulose.
IN
Cellulose Fibres in Response to the Growing Demand for Eco-fibres as a Substitute for Plastics in Various Applications.
O
O V OVA-IN STIT A R AT I O N AW N
U
Call for Innovation Submit your Application for the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2024” until 15 Dec 2023 Organiser
Award Sponsor
Gold Sponsors
Circular Economy and Recyclability of Fibres with Andritz (FI), Lund University (SE), & Valmet Technologies (FI) Cellulose Fibre based Hygiene Products with LIST Technology (CH), Graz University of Technology (AT) & Kelheim Fibres (DE) Alternative Feedstocks and Supply Chains with Papiertechnische Stiftung PTS (DE) & Fraunhofer LBF (DE)
Bronze Sponsors
Ionic Liquids and New Technologies for Pulps, Fibres and Yarns with German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) (DE) & Aalto University (FI)
cellulose-fibres.eu
CSMITH@INDA.ORG +1 239.225.6137
VIEWPOINT
New Places with a Great View “My destination is no longer a place, rather a new way of seeing.”
– Marcel Proust
s I started the year, my calendar was full of destinations that had me meeting with the industry through large and small events, for both fiber and filtration. From Techtextil to ITMA to Index, and others, I travelled with an agenda to gather business intelligence, meet with progressive industry suppliers, and discover emerging trends. Instead of checking these things off my list, what I found more of was a deeper understanding on the inner workings of the industry and an excitement of knowing we are standing at a crossroads of change. I came away from each event more excited about the potential of what can be, and a desire to reveal a pathway to achieve it inside our pages. I am sure for some of you, pivotal times of change have come and gone in your careers. Yet, for some of us, this is the first time through a significant shift. From my perspective, I realized that change in the industry is not a destination, but a mindset. To become sustainable will require a new vision for the future, and embracing ideological change for a greater purpose – such as preservation of natural resources. This demand for a new vision may have some worried. But in “Resetting the Global Supply Chain,” in Geoff Fisher’s report from Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress 2023 on page 24, he says, “Stephan Sielaff, chief executive officer (CEO) of Lenzing, noted that while the global fiber market has seen many challenges since the 1960s, it has always recovered. It continues to show a healthy growth potential, with an average annual increase of 2.4% predicted by 2030, which means an additional demand of 27 million tonnes a year of fibers.” The article also quotes Robert van de Kerkhof, chief sustainability officer of Austriabased cellulosic fibers producer Lenzing and president of the Dornbirn GFC:
A
6 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
“The challenges currently facing the fiber industry require fundamental changes in the value chains. We see new strategic partnerships being formed to take advantage of new opportunities around innovation, the circular economy and new business models.” Part of the conversation at every event I attended was biobased materials. On page 12, Hafiz Muhammad Kaleem Ullah and Javier Vera Sorroche from the Centre Européen des Textiles Innovants (CETI) discuss the viability of biobased sources in polymers. This article is based on CETI’s presentation at Dornbirn GFC, and spells out what the industry must know to embrace a new vision for polymer-based fiber production. They emphasize that quality must be a key component: “First and foremost, industries must meticulously evaluate whether the properties of these biobased materials align with the specific functional requirements of their intended applications. Factors such as tensile strength, flexibility, durability, and resistance to various environmental conditions must be scrutinized to ensure that they meet industry standards.” On page 20, Adrian Wilson shares about France’s “Extended Producer Responsibility in Action,” highlighting the country’s complex and productive system of recycling textiles in operation since 2008. Wilson notes, “France is now setting the pace in establishing a fiber-to-fiber ecosystem for other nations to follow.” There is much to be achieved in this current shift in textile and fiber manufacturing and handling, End-of-life systems are still being developed and emerging technologies are announced weekly. It is an exciting time to be reporting on this industry. We will have much more to share with you in 2024. Keep reading!
Caryn Smith Chief Content Officer & Publisher, INDA Media, IFJ
CONTENT | EDITORIAL CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Caryn Smith Driven By Design LLC csmith@inda.org +1 239.225.6137
EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION MANAGER Ken Norberg ken@ifj.com +1 202.681.2022 ART DIRECTOR Julie Flynn EUROPEAN EDITOR, Geoff Fisher INTERNATIONAL CORRESPONDENT, EUROPE Adrian Wilson
ADVERTISING | SALES PUBLISHER Driven By Design LLC advertising@inda.media +1 239.225.6137 BUYER’S GUIDE Joan Oakley CHINA Zhang Xiaohua EUROPE & INDIA Sabine Dussey ITALY Ferruccio & Filippo Silvera UNITED STATES Frank Strazzulla ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Vickie Smead vsmead@inda.org +1 919 459 3700 x 3720
AUDIENCE | CIRCULATION CIRCULATION MANAGER inda@stamats.com +1 800.553.8878
International Fiber Journal is published by INDA Media, the b2b publishing arm of INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry. +1.919.459.3700 info@inda.media | www.inda.media INTERNATIONAL FIBER JOURNAL (ISSN: 1049801x) is published bi-monthly by INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry. Subscription price is $125 per year for non-U.S. subscribers. Periodicals postage paid at Charlotte, NC, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to International Fiber Journal PO Box 158 Cedar Rapids IA 52406-0158 USA.
MISSION
International Fiber Journal covers fiber-related trends and material science developments and how they impact the supply chain from raw material to end use. IFJ provides thoughtful insights and perspectives to global producers, users and business leaders who need to know about what’s next in fibers, filaments and processing solutions.
YOUR VIEWPOINT IN IFJ Sustaining Leaders in the Fiber Industry
What is Your Contribution?
Join Us!
s I have travelled to shows and events, it is easy to see that industry contributors are everywhere. Can I suggest that you can consider yourself a key contributor! You make contributions every day in your work life to advance your company mission and vision. No matter where you are in your fiber journey, what you do matters. You are researchers, scientists, developers, manufacturers, process & product specialists, inventors, engineers, administrators, sales personnel, site managers, and more. Maybe you presented a research paper or a keynote address at an industry event. Possibly you applied new technology or processes to your fiber endeavors. Or you installed a new line of machinery to increase productivity. You may even have documented new or improved scientific data.
Our mission in 2024 is sustain leaders in the industry – through education, inspiration and information. By sharing interesting stories, valuable trends, worthy advancements – and even notable advertising – I hope that we inspire you to think differently about solutions to problems and to connect industry colleagues to collaborate. But I need your help to accomplish this! Consider this your invitation to contribute to IFJ. I welcome participation through new story ideas and thought leadership. Review the Editorial Calendar below for issue themes. Then, send an email to csmith@inda.org to receive the IFJ Editorial Submission Guidelines. While I can’t promise all ideas presented will be accepted, I welcome the opportunity to explore them with you. — Caryn Smith, IFJ Chief Content Officer & Publisher
A
Where d?o you fit in
SHOW DISTRIBUTION
ISSUE 1
Editorial: Dec. 18 Ad Close: Jan. 3 Materials: Jan. 8 Mail Date: Feb. 9
ISSUE 2
Editorial: Feb. 23 Ad Close: Feb. 26 Materials: Mar. 4 Mail Date: Mar. 29
OPPORTUNITY!
ISSUE 3
Editorial: Apr. 15 Ad Close: Apr. 19 Materials: Apr. 24 Mail Date: May 31
JEC World, Mar. 5-7, Paris Nord Villepinte France Cellulose Fibres Conference, Mar. 13-14, Cologne, Germany TechTextil, Apr. 23-26, Frankfurt, Germany ANEX, May 22-24, Taipei, Taiwan Smart Fabrics May 14-15, Raleigh, NC World of Wipes (WOW) June 17-20, Minneapolis, MN TechTextil NA, Aug 20-22, Raleigh, NC CAMX, Sept 9-12, San Diego, CA Dornbirn GFC 2024, Sept 11-13, Dornbirn, Austria
ISSUE FOCUS
Textiles & Technology
Making Cuts + Threads & Yarns
Mechanical vs. Chemical Recycling
2024 EDITORIAL CALENDAR SPOTLIGHT
Supply Chain Traceability
• New Special Section for 2024! Nonwovens: Fabrics • AI/Machine Learning in Composites • ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) • Technology
Coloration Trends in Textiles
• Nonwovens Special Section: Equipment • Finishing, Dyeing & Printing • Spinning & Winding • Converting • Cutting & Crimping Systems
Refining, Recycling and Repurposing
MARKETING OPPORTUNITIES
FEATURED TOPICS
• Natural & Cellulose Fiber Composites • Bicomponent Fiber • Apparel/Fast Fashion • Weaving & Knitting
See page 8 for details
Solution Center: Automation & Digitalization Showfloor Showcases: JEC World, Cellulose Fibres Conference, TechTextil (Germany), ANEX Solution Center: Bio-Based Fiber & Yarns Solution Center: Cutting & Crimping Systems Showfloor Showcases: Smart Fabrics, WOW Solution Center: Recycling Equipment Showfloor Showcases: TechTextil NA, CAMX, Dornbirn GFC 2024
Special 7th Edition of IFJ! “Innovating Nonwovens for Sustainable Solutions” This stand-alone publication mails with the May-June IFJ. It highlights the best of the nonwovens industry as it addresses the challenges and opportunities of sustainability and is sponsored by INDA - Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry. To advertise in this special issue of IFJ, contact your Sales Representative.
ISSUE 4
Editorial: Jun. 21 Ad Close: Jun. 26 Materials: Jul. 1 Mail Date: Aug. 2
ISSUE 5
Editorial: Aug. 21 Ad Close: Aug. 28 Materials: Sept. 2 Mail Date: Oct. 4
ISSUE 6
Editorial: Oct. 21 Ad Close: Oct. 30 Materials: Nov. 4 Mail Date: Dec. 6
Outlook, Sept. 24-28, Rome, Italy ATA Expo, Sept. 24-26, Anaheim, CA RISE, Oct. 1-2, NCSU/Raleigh, NC
Hygienix, Nov., 18-24, Nashville, TN
Automotive, Transportation & Marine Applications
Trends in Textile Machinery & Equipment
The Best of 2024 Fiber Innovation (Ask Us How to Be Featured)
Technical Textiles
Wearable Devices
Polymers and Biopolymers
• Nonwovens Special Section: Drylaid, Spunlaid, Meltblown & Wetlaid • Engineered Fibers • Carbon Fiber Textiles • Geosynthetics
• Nonwovens Special Section: Durables • Adhesives & Bonding • Wipes Manufacturing • Fiber Intermediates
• Nonwovens Special Section: Medical & Surgical • Additives • Nanofiber • Protective Apparel & PPE Solutions
Solution Center: Finishing, Coating & Laminating Showfloor Showcase: ATA Expo Showfloor Showcase: RISE
Solution Center: Superabsorbent Polymers Solution Center: Machinery & Equipment Showfloor Showcase: Hygienix
Solution Center: PPE/Protective Apparel Solution Center: Polymers and Biopolymers Bonus: 2025 Buyer’s Guide
Make Sure to be Included in the 2025 Buyer’s Guide! It is hosted on FiberJournal.com for One Full Year! * Editorial topics subject to change. Please Note: Show copy issues will be distributed either via Print Distribution at the show or to specified lists via e-Blast through show management or INDA Media.
5
ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 7
TECH SPOTLIGHT
Lignin Coating Makes Geotextiles Made From EnvironmentallyFriendly Natural Fibers Durable extiles are a given in civil engineering – they stabilize water protection dams, prevent runoff containing pollutants from landfills, facilitate the revegetation of slopes at risk of erosion, and even make asphalt layers of roads thinner. Until now, textiles made of highly resistant synthetic fibers have been used for this purpose, which have a very long lifetime. For some applications, however, it would not only be sufficient but even desirable for the auxiliary textile to degrade in the soil when it has done its job. Environmentally-friendly natural fibers, on the other hand, often decompose too quickly. To solve the problem, the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are developing a bio-based protective coating that extends their service life. Depending on humidity and temperature, natural fiber materials can degrade in the soil in a matter of months or even a few days. In order to significantly extend the degradation time and make them suitable for geotextiles, the Denkendorf team has developed a protective coating. This coating, based on lignin, is itself biodegradable and does not generate microplastics in the soil. Lignin is indeed biodegradable, but this degradation takes a very long time in nature. Together with cellulose, lignin forms the building materials for wood and is the “glue” in wood that holds this composite material together. In paper production, usually only cellulose is used, so lignin is produced in large quantities as a waste material. So-called kraft lignin remains as a fusible material. Textile production can deal well with thermoplastic materials. All in all, this is a good prerequisite
T
8 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
for taking a closer look at lignin as a protective coating for geotextiles. Lignin is brittle by nature. Therefore, it is necessary to blend the kraft lignin with softer biomaterials. These new biopolymer compounds of brittle kraft lignin and softer biopolymers were applied to yarns and textile surfaces in the research project via adapted coating systems. For this purpose, for example, cotton yarns were coated with lignin at different application rates and evaluated. Biodegradation testing was carried out using soil burial tests both in a climatic chamber with temperature and humidity defined precisely according to the standard and outdoors under real environmental conditions. With positive results, the service life of textiles made of natural fibers can be extended by many factors with a lignin coating. The thicker the protective coating, the longer the protection lasts. In the outdoor tests, the lignin coating was still completely intact even after 160 days of burial. Textile materials coated with lignin enable sustainable applications. For example, they have an adjustable and sufficiently long service life for certain geotextile applications. In addition, they are still biodegradable and can replace previously used synthetic materials in some applications, such as revegetation of trench and stream banks. Thus, lignin-coated textiles have the potential to significantly reduce the carbon footprint. They reduce dependence on petroleumbased products and avoid the formation of microplastics in the soil. Further research is needed to establish lignin, which was previously a waste material, as a new valuable
Nonwoven fabric based on cellulose, coated with the lignin compound as a protective layer against degradation in the soil. DITF Cross-section of a cotton yarn coated with lignin by extrusion process. DITF
Cotton yarns: with lignin coating as a protective layer against degradation in soil and reference material without coating. DITF
material in industrial manufacturing processes in the textile industry. For more information on this research, reach out to PD Dr.-Ing. Thomas Stegmaier, Head of Competence Center Textile Chemistry, Environment & Energy at thomas. stegmaier@ditf.de or Dipl.-Ing. Cigdem Kaya, Team leader Barrier textiles at cigdem.kaya@ ditf.de. The research work was supported by the Baden-Württemberg Ministry of Food, Rural Areas and Consumer Protection as part of the Baden-Württemberg State Strategy for a Sustainable Bioeconomy. www.ditf.de For details on how to submit your company’s technology for consideration as a “Technology Spotlight” in IFJ, contact Ken Norberg at ken@ifj.com or +1 202.682.2022.
TECH
PFNonwovens Launches Product Portfolio Based on 100% Renewable and Compostable Materials
NOTES
Freudenberg Launches Sustainable, Low-Level BPA Thermal Insulation Products Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel, a leading provider of innovative technical solutions in the apparel industry, recently launched two advanced thermal insulation products made from low-level Bisphenol A (BPA) recycled PET fibers (rPET) into the global range of comfortemp®, Freudenberg’s thermal insulation brand. The introduction of DOWN FEEL WA 150LB and FIBERBALL WB 400LB underscores Freudenberg’s commitment to innovation and sustainability. The additions of DOWN FEEL WA 150LB and FIBERBALL WB 400LB to the comfortemp® global range serve as high-quality and ecologically-minded alternatives to down, enhancing the comfort and sustainability of your garments. DOWN FEEL WA 150LB is an extremelylightweight, loose fiber thermal insulation with a super-light loft, while FIBERBALL WB 400LB uses clusters of extra-fine fibers to offer optimal breathability, maximum comfort, and minimal clumping after washing and drying. Both products are crafted using Freudenberg’s advanced technology, utilizing 100% GRS-certified rPET fibers, customizable to desired fill levels. Additionally, these new products not only comply with but significantly surpass the stringent OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 Class I certifications (the strictest requirements, suitable for babies). While OEKO-TEX ® categorizes lowlevel BPA as less than 100 parts per million (ppm), these new products contain less than 1 ppm BPA, a testament to ® Freudenberg´s comfortemp DOWN FEEL WA Series. Freudenberg’s unyielding standards. Freudenberg Performance Materials
www.freudenberg-pm.com
Global nonwoven fabric manufacturer PFNonwovens, a leading innovator in the nonwovens industry, announced the launch of its newest sustainable nonwoven product portfolio based on 100% renewable resin, leveraging the latest Reicofil 5 technology. The portfolio is highlighted by a number of breakthrough materials made entirely from polylactic acid (PLA) resins. These products are setting new standards for eco-friendly spunmelt nonwovens and reinforce PFNonwovens’ commitment to sustainability and environmental stewardship. The commercial launch of the new biobased nonwoven products, produced from 100% PLA and enabled by the Reicofil 5 technology, is the most recent step in the company’s drive to address environmental challenges. These innovative materials set new standards for eco-friendly spunmelt nonwovens, while delivering the performance and quality levels expected in applications such as advanced hygiene products, filtration, medical and many others. These new products composed entirely of PLA (from NatureWorks LLC) are industrially compostable and include both spunbond and SMS structures. Developing products that met the goal was a challenge and was enabled by the state-of-the-art Reicofil 5 technology.
www.pfnonwovens.com
The LYCRA Company Launches New LYCRA® FiT400™ Fiber The LYCRA Company, a global leader in developing innovative and sustainable fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries, recently announced the launch of new LYCRA® FiT400™ fiber for knits. The company’s latest EcoMade offering is a unique bicomponent fiber engineered to optimize the performance and comfort of knits. It delivers a durable soft hand-feel, low shrinkage and high uniformity to fabrics. LYCRA® FiT400™ fiber is made from 60% recycled PET and 14.4% from bio-derived resources and is
GRS certified. It includes two different polyester polymers, which together create a helical crimp, providing permanent stretch and recovery properties, as well as breathability, cooling comfort and chlorine resistance to fabrics. LYCRA® FiT400™ fiber helps set the stage for circularity, a key priority for The LYCRA Company. In controlled tests under specific conditions, this fiber was recycled back into new polyester fibers, thereby demonstrating the technical feasibility of this process.
www.lycra.com
The LYCRA Company has launched a new sustainable solution for athleisure, activewear and swimwear. LYCRA® FiT400™ fiber optimizes the comfort and performance of knits.
ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 9
Slack & Parr Showcases Spin Finish Pump for Polyesters
Spinnova Unveils Sustainable Denim at Kingpins Trade Show
Precision gear metering specialist Slack & Parr showcased its updated Spin Finish Pump for the polyester market alongside its range of fluid metering technologies for specialty fibers at ITMA Asia in Shanghai, China. This is the first time the company has brought its newly redesigned SPO Spin Finish Pump to the AsiaPacific market since the technology was launched at ITMA, Milan, in June 2023. The pump has been re-engineered with fewer components and a modular design that is simple and cost-effective to operate and maintain but capable of very high levels of accuracy. It has been developed for the application of finish emulsions onto filaments typically used in hot-melt manufacture of POY and FDY polyester yarns. Featuring a compact design and robust build, it is used to meter and apply oil-based emulsions onto yarns to improve efficiency in downstream processes and offers capacities down to 0.014cc/rev with very high accuracy including at low speeds. www.slackandparr.com
With a global market of 3.1 billion pairs in 2022, denim jeans could easily be considered a wardrobe staple. Despite this, there has been limited innovation to address the many sustainability challenges of denim production, such as water and resource intensity, heavy chemical use and dyeing, as well as limited recyclability when blended with materials such as polyester and elastane. Sustainable textile material company Spinnova recently presented the first blended denim fabrics made with wood-based SPINNOVA® fiber at the annual Kingpins denim trade show in Amsterdam. The pilot products showcase the Spinnova technology potential to improve the sustainability of denim on multiple fronts. When SPINNOVA® fiber is produced from certified eucalyptus pulp, it has various environmental benefits such as 99% less water consumption and 74% fewer CO2 emissions compared to conventional cotton. The fiber spinning process uses zero harmful chemicals and thanks to the unique mechanical process, the fiber has a natural hand-feel. Finally, the raw material used to make SPINNOVA® fiber can be traced back to its origin. The denim industry doesn’t compromise on quality, which has been a challenge for denim manufacturers exploring new materials in the past. While most man-made fibers lack the quintessential, sturdy feel of cotton-based denim, early tests have shown that denim produced with a blend of SPINNOVA® and cotton maintains those qualities and meets the aesthetic requirements of denim. www.spinnova.com
High-Performance Hydrophobic Fiber With the growing demand among brands and consumers for plastic-free materials and ingredient transparency, VEOCEL™, the flagship specialty nonwovens brand of Lenzing Group, showcased LENZING™ Lyocell Dry fiber at Hygienix 2023. LENZING™ Lyocell Dry fiber which is not classified as “plastic” according to EU SUPD, meets the growing interest for plastic-free nonwoven products across the industry and among consumers. Additionally, along with being an environment-friendly solution, the fiber delivers high-performance dryness and comfort which makes it the optimum fiber choice for absorbent hygiene applications. Comprised of mostly fossil-based materials, absorbent hygiene products are an essential part of many consumers’ daily lives. With heightened concerns towards environmental impact, the product segment has been undergoing a change caused by shifting consumer preferences, increased consciousness and concerns towards plastic waste, and technology advancement. LENZING™ Lyocell Dry fiber has embraced these changes without compromising on quality or performance.
www.lenzing.com 10 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
Mara Hoffman Unveils Dress Made from Textile Waste Sustainable luxury designer Mara Hoffman has released her first dress design using Circ® Lyocell, a filament lyocell derived from 50% recycled textile waste. Dubbed “The Dress that Changes Everything,” this collaboration between Mara Hoffman and Circ, the fashion technology company that recycles polycotton textile waste back into new fibers, is the first time Circ Lyocell is being used in the luxury market. The dress also heralds an ongoing partnership as the designer announces her commitment to transitioning to from virgin lyocell to Circ Lyocell in her collections over the next three years. www.marahoffman.com
ADVERTORIAL | SOLUTION CENTER: FIBER MACHINERY
Fi-Tech – Your Global Connection to the Top Equipment Suppliers for Synthetic Fiber and Nonwoven Fabric Production or more than 50 years, Fi-Tech has connected the fiber, nonwoven and technical textile industries to the leading suppliers of production machinery and technical components. Since our founding in 1972, Fi-Tech consistently brings to the market the most advanced suppliers
F
with unique and technologically superior solutions giving our customers the competitive advantages they need to be successful today and well into the future. From our home bases in Richmond, VA and San Luis Potosi, Mexico, the Fi-Tech Team is with you every step of the way from technical specification, to
order placement, to delivery and after startup spare parts support. The Fi-Tech Team is dedicated to providing the best products and customer service and to your success. Fi-Tech is your Global Connection covering the USA, Canada, and Mexico. fi-tech.com
Our principals include:
by Spoolex
C0 M 100 Y 100 K 15
C0 M 90 Y 90 K0
K 90
ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 11
Viability of
Renewable Sources in Polymers
Overview of Emerging Biodegradable Polymers, Their Suitability and Commercial Applications In Textiles, and Future Challenges
Heartland Polymers
O
ver the years, the consumption of single-use plastics has been on the rise due to their attributes of durability, lightweight nature, and cost-effectiveness. Globally, an astonishing 9.2 billion tons of plastic have been manufactured, with annual production reaching 368 million tons in 2019. It is estimated that the annual generation of plastic waste amounts to 34 million tons, with a staggering 93% of this waste ending up in landfills and oceans. The production of synthetic petroleum-based plastics contributes to the growing issue of plastic waste, which in turn has detrimental effects on the environment, including ozone depletion, eco-toxicity, the release of carcinogens, global warming, and eutrophication.1–3 In response to growing environmental concerns about non-biodegradable plastics, bioplastics have emerged as an alternative solution. Biobased polymers,
12 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
By Hafiz Muhammad Kaleem Ullah and Javier Vera Sorroche
often referred to as bioplastics, represent a class of materials derived from renewable sources such as plants, algae, and microorganisms. Unlike traditional petroleumbased plastics, which are dependent on fossil fuels and contribute to environmental issues, biobased polymers offer a more sustainable and eco-friendly alternative. The bioplastic term is commonly used but its definition is still ambiguous. Biobased plastics are fully or partially made from biological resources, rather than fossil raw materials (Figure 1). They are not necessarily biodegradable or compostable. It is important to examine the full lifecycle of biobased plastics, to ensure that they are beneficial to the environment beyond the reduction in the use of fossil resources. Conversely, a biodegradable plastic undergoes degradation due to the activity of naturally-occurring microorganisms like bacteria, fungi, and algae (ASTM D 640099). Furthermore, a plastic that breaks down through biological processes while
composting, producing CO2, water, inorganic compounds, leaving behind no visible, distinguishable, or toxic residue. (ASTM D 6400-99).4,5 Presently, the worldwide annual production of 100% biobased polymers stands at approximately two million tonnes, with biodegradable plastics constituting the majority, accounting for two-thirds of this quantity. Anticipated growth in the annual production of biobased and biodegradable polymers is expected in 2023. However, when compared to petroleum-based plastics, the bioplastics market share is projected to remain relatively modest at 2%, with an annual growth rate of 4%. In Europe, the growth rate is notably higher at 10%, primarily driven by forthcoming market regulations and increased consumer demand for sustainable products. On a global scale, growth rates could potentially reach 10-20% if bioplastics received similar subsidies and political support as biofuels. Bioplastics and bio-
iStockphoto.com/greenleaf123/Duangphorn Wiriya
BIOPOLYMERS
degradable plastics are currently finding applications in packaging, food packaging, disposable household items, agricultural films, textiles, and construction. The increasing diversity of applications for biobased polymers promises to yield favorable environmental and economic consequences.2,6,7
The bioplastic term is commonly used but its definition is still ambiguous. Biobased plastics are fully or partially made from biological resources, rather than fossil raw materials. They are not necessarily biodegradable or compostable.
Applications for Viable Sustainable Options
into technical textiles, where their unique properties can offer advantages in specialized applications, such as medical textiles, geotextiles, and automotive textiles. The trend toward eco-conscious fashion and textiles is undoubtedly here to stay, with biobased polymers playing a pivotal role in this transformation, contributing to a more sustainable and environmentally conscious future in the textile industry.6,8
Biobased polymers have become increasingly prominent in the textile industry, and this surge in popularity is driven by the pressing need for more sustainable and environmentally-friendly materials. These polymers, notably exemplified by substances like polylactic acid (PLA) and polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA), and Polybutylene succinate (PBS), are being utilized in a wide spectrum of textile applications. They are at the forefront of a burgeoning eco-conscious textile revolution, offering a range of benefits. For instance, biobased textiles are finding their way into everyday clothing and apparel, including the likes of casual wear, activewear, and stylish fashion pieces. These textiles are prized for their comfort, breathability, and softness, offering consumers an eco-friendly alternative to conventional fabrics. Their moisture-wicking properties make them ideal for sportswear, ensuring that athletes and outdoor enthusiasts can perform optimally while minimizing their environmental footprint.6 Moreover, biobased textiles are finding their place in workwear and uniforms, providing both comfort and durability. The workwear sector has recognized the potential of these textiles to meet the dual requirements of sustainability and resilience in demanding environments. Home textiles, such as bed linens and upholstery, are also benefiting from biobased polymers, enhancing both comfort and sustainability for households. Furthermore, eco-friendly accessories, including hats, scarves, and bags, are embracing these textiles, offering consumers stylish and sustainable options. Beyond fashion and personal use, biobased polymers are making their way
Industry Considerations for Biobased Polymers The incorporation of biobased polymers into industrial practices is a multifaceted endeavor, necessitating a thoughtful consideration of numerous key elements. First and foremost, industries must meticulously evaluate whether the properties of these biobased materials align with the specific functional requirements of their intended applications. Factors such as tensile strength, flexibility, durability, and resistance to various environmental conditions must be scrutinized to ensure that they meet industry standards. Equally important is the cost-effectiveness and
the availability of a consistent supply of biobased polymers. While these materials often boast impressive sustainability benefits, they can sometimes come at a higher price point compared to their conventional petroleum-based counterparts. Industries must conduct thorough costbenefit analyses to determine their economic viability. Furthermore, it’s vital to assess the availability and accessibility of these materials to maintain production consistency. At the heart of the adoption of biobased polymers lies the paramount consideration of sustainability. Organizations must explore the numerous environmental benefits that these materials offer, such as a significantly reduced carbon footprint and decreased reliance on finite fossil fuel resources. These sustainable attributes contribute to a more eco-conscious approach to production and can align with corporate sustainability goals. Another pivotal factor to consider is regulatory compliance. Industries must adhere to any relevant regulations, standards, and certifications pertaining to biobased materials. Compost and Renewal
Disposal
Raw Materials Market/ Consumer
Textile Product Manufacturer
Figure 1. Classification of plastics.
Bioplastics Life Cycle
Bioplastic Manufacturer
Research & Development
ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 13
Biobased
PLA
Bio-based
PE
PHA
PET
PBS
PTT
PHBH
Bio-based & Non-biodegradable
PEF
Bio-based starch blends & Biodegradable
Non-biodegradable
PE
Biodegradable Non bio-based & biodegradable
Non bio-based & Non-biodegradable
PET PP PVC
Fossil-based
PBAT PCL
Figure 2. Life cycle of bioplastics.
These may include labeling requirements, compostability standards, and biodegradability criteria. Maintaining compliance ensures both ethical and legal usage of these materials. Moreover, the industry must factor in the end-of-life implications of biobased polymers. Understanding what happens to these materials once they have fulfilled their intended purpose is essential. Questions around recyclability, biodegradability, and compostability are of utmost importance. The availability of proper infrastructure and facilities to manage biobased materials in an environmentally responsible manner must also be taken into account. Also, building an ethical and reliable supply chain is fundamental for the consistent sourcing of biobased polymers. This involves identifying and collaborating with sustainable and certified suppliers. The integrity of the sustainability message relies on a transparent and responsible supply chain. Another critical consideration is the adaptability of processing equipment and technology. Some biobased polymers may require adjustments or even new technology for effective utilization. Assessing whether current infrastructure is compatible with these
14 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
materials and making necessary upgrades is integral to a smooth transition. Furthermore, understanding consumer demand and preferences is vital. Industries should gauge market trends and consumer attitudes towards biobased products. An increasing consumer inclination towards sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives can inform decisions on product development and marketing strategies. Continuous research and development play a central role in the successful integration of biobased polymers. Investments in innovation are essential to improve material properties and cost-effectiveness, expanding the range of applications and enhancing the overall value proposition of these materials. Additionally, industries should consider education and awareness initiatives. Educating employees, partners, and consumers about the benefits and proper use of biobased materials is crucial. Awareness campaigns can contribute to building a positive image and driving acceptance of these sustainable alternatives. Lastly, it’s essential to recognize that adopting biobased polymers should not be viewed as a short-term trend, but as a long-term commitment to sustainability. Industries should plan for the future and work on strategies for continually reduc-
ing the environmental impact of their products. This ongoing commitment is integral to the evolving landscape of sustainable practices and the achievement of lasting, positive environmental change.6,8
Future Challenges and Pathways to Overcome Them The integration of biobased polymers into the textile industry holds promise as a path toward a more sustainable and environmentally friendly approach. However, this incorporation comes with a set of crucial challenges and considerations that must be addressed for a successful transition. One primary challenge revolves around the cost of manufacturing biobased polymers, which can be higher compared to traditional petroleum-based materials. Efforts are required to make biobased textiles economically competitive. Establishing a dependable and scalable supply chain for biobased polymer feedstocks is of utmost importance, necessitating collaboration between industries and suppliers. Moreover, biobased polymers may not always match the performance characteristics of conventional synthetic materials, demanding research and development to enhance qualities like strength, durability, and colorfastness. Furthermore, developing recycling infrastructure, especially for biodegradable textiles, is essential, and so are the suitable disposal methods and composting facilities to mitigate environmental concerns. Ensuring compatibility with other materials in textile blends may entail adjustments and upgrades when incorporating biobased polymers into existing textile processes to maintain product quality. Besides, compliance with regulations is crucial for gaining consumer trust and meeting industry standards. The importance of educating consumers about the advantages and proper care of biobased textiles cannot be overstated for market acceptance. As the demand for biobased materials grows, there is potential competition for renewable resources, which could impact other industries, underscoring the need for sustainable sourcing practices. Addressing technical
challenges related to moisture, temperature, and UV sensitivity is critical to ensure the reliability of biobased polymers. The journey to scale up the production of biobased textiles for commercial use involves investments in technology, infrastructure, and research, representing a significant challenge. Diversifying the range of feedstocks used for biobased materials has the potential to reduce resource competition and enhance sustainability. Convincing consumers and industries of the long-term benefits of biobased textiles and their contribution to sustainability is pivotal for their adoption. While these challenges are substantial, the potential advantages of employing biobased polymers in textiles, such as mitigating environmental impact and reducing reliance on fossil fuels, position them as a valuable avenue for a more sustainable future in the textile industry. Overcoming these hurdles necessitates collaboration among industries, researchers, and policymakers to drive innovation and establish a more sustainable textile sector. By investing in research and development, optimizing production processes, establishing recycling infrastructure, promoting sustainability, and raising awareness, the textile industry can successfully integrate biobased polymers and contribute to a more sustainable future.6–8
Is a Sustainable Polymer Really Possible? Attaining a genuinely sustainable polymer base for plastics is a complex but achievable objective. Sustainability in the realm of plastics hinges on a range of strategies and innovations designed to mitigate environmental impact and reduce reliance on finite fossil fuels. One prominent avenue involves biobased polymers, which derive their origins from renewable sources like plants and algae. These materials, exemplified by polylactic acid (PLA) and polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA), have already made significant inroads by exhibiting reduced carbon emissions and a smaller environmental footprint compared to conventional plastics. Their broader adoption and contin-
One primary challenge revolves around the cost of manufacturing biobased polymers, which can be higher compared to traditional petroleum-based materials. Efforts are required to make biobased textiles economically competitive. ued improvement hold the potential to contribute significantly to the sustainability of the industry.6,9 Recycling, another cornerstone of this sustainable future, demands increased efficiency and broader implementation. The concept of a closed-loop recycling system, where plastics are collected, processed, and reintroduced into the production cycle in an unbroken continuum, is gaining traction. This not only decreases the demand for new plastic production but also minimizes the pernicious impact of plastic waste on the environment. The deployment of biodegradable plastics is yet another facet of this multifaceted effort. These plastics are engineered to break down into natural substances when exposed to specific conditions, mitigating the persistence of plastic waste in our ecosystems. Nevertheless, the successful adoption of biodegradable plastics depends significantly on the existence of an infrastructure for proper disposal and composting. Innovations in materials science hold the promise of delivering plastics with improved properties, extended longevity, and enhanced recyclability. These advancements are achieved through the
development of polymer blends, nanocomposites, and other novel materials. By harnessing the power of advanced materials, the industry can create plastics that better meet the demands of sustainability. However, the shift toward sustainability transcends material innovation. It encompasses the entire lifecycle of plastics, where the principles of a circular economy take center stage. This approach prioritizes the reduction of waste, the reutilization of materials, and the promotion of recycling, all essential steps toward minimizing the environmental impact of plastic production and use. Simultaneously, the reduction of singleuse plastics, exemplified by disposable packaging and utensils, is gaining momentum. Governments and businesses are recognizing the urgency of phasing out or diminishing the use of these items and are either transitioning to alternative materials or advocating the use of reusable options. This multifaceted approach to plastic sustainability is significantly bolstered by comprehensive life cycle assessments. These assessments provide a holistic understanding of the environmental impact of plastic products, from their initial
Figure 3. Islands-in-the-sea bicomponent fiber with biobased water soluble polymer as sea and biobased PLA as islands (left), and PLA fibers after dissolution of water soluble polymer (right). Hills Inc.
ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 15
production to their eventual disposal. Armed with this knowledge, industries can identify areas for improvement and work towards reducing their overall environmental footprint. Public awareness and education play a pivotal role in the journey toward sustainability. By fostering a widespread understanding of responsible plastic usage, recycling practices, and disposal methods, a more informed and eco-conscious society can help curtail plastic pollution. Regulations and policies also hold considerable sway in promoting sustainability. Governments have the capacity to enact legislation that encourages the use of sustainable materials, advances recycling initiatives, and discourages environmentally detrimental practices. While significant strides have been made in the quest for sustainability, challenges remain. These include ensuring that bio-based materials do not compete with food production, addressing the limitations of current recycling technologies, and creating a cohesive global approach to plastic sustainability. Nonetheless, the commitment to reducing the environmental impact of plastics is not merely an aspiration; it is a pressing imperative for the welfare of our planet and for the generations that will inherit it. Therefore, while the journey toward sustainability may be intricate and ongoing, it is a journey well worth embarking upon.10,11
Ongoing efforts Ultimately, the path toward a truly sustainable polymer base in plastics is a collaborative endeavor. It requires cooperation between industries, research institutions, and environmental organizations, as well as an unwavering commitment to reducing the environmental impact of plastic production and usage. As previously mentioned, the introduction of biobased polymers into the textile sector holds promise for sustainability but also poses critical challenges. The Centre Européen des Textiles Innovants (CETI) in France is collaborating closely with material manufacturers and fiber technology developers to integrate biobased plastics
16 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
into textiles. For example, Hills Inc. (USA) has been at the forefront of fiber technology and has established a robust decadelong partnership with CETI. Together, they have engaged in numerous research and development initiatives geared towards bolstering the textile industry. In anticipation of forthcoming challenges, CETI and Hills are working together to push the limits by introducing bioderived polymer materials for textile use. CETI possess cutting-edge Hills advanced spinning solutions that can support novel formulations, enabling the integration of innovative functionalities into fibers. Additionally, CETI’s multi-component fiber
strategy has proven highly successful in ensuring the required mechanical performance at the yarn level, thereby supporting the successful life cycle of biobased plastics. Figure 2 illustrates the proactive involvement of CETI and Hills in the lifecycle of bioplastics. Multicomponent fibers are known to enhance the material’s performance, and are commonly used in the development of innovative solutions when various crosssectional shapes are needed. To develop the high performance fiber, CETI and Hills are currently developing an innovative approach (Figure 3) using a bi-component yarn development configuration.
Hafiz Muhammad Kaleem Ullah, currently working as an R&D Project Manager at CETI (Centre Européen des Textiles Innovants, Tourcoing, France). He served as an R&D Engineer at Packages Ltd., Chawla Group of Companies, and Punjab University’s Institute of Chemical Engineering. He pursued an Erasmus master’s program in Sustainable Materials and Polymer Sciences, split between the University of Strasbourg, France, and the University of Freiburg, Germany. During this period, he contributed to research at the Institute of Charles Sadron, focusing on polymer sciences. Subsequently, he secured doctoral research funding from the Association Nationale de la Recherche et de la Technologie in France, engaging in an industrial Ph.D. program between Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textile and CETI. Throughout his doctoral research, Hafiz collaborated with various European institutes and universities, specializing in multicomponent fiber development, polymer extrusion process optimization, and polymer rheometry. His academic and professional journey underscores his commitment to advancing polymer engineering and his significant contributions to European textile and innovation. Javier Vera-Sorroche is Director of the Polymer Business Unit at CETI. He comes from a strong R&D plastics processing background and his core competences include: melt spinning, nonwoven, extrusion and optimization, compounding and polymer rheology. He holds a Master of Science in Chemical Engineering from the University of Murcia, Spain, and PhD in Polymer Extrusion from the University of Bradford, United Kingdom.
References 1.
2. 3.
4.
5. 6.
Wu A, March L, Zheng X, Huang J, Wang X, Zhao J, et al. Production, use, and fate of all plastics ever made [Internet]. Vol. 388, Nature. 2020. p. 1–14. Available from: chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.science.org/doi/pdf/10.1126/ sciadv.1700782 Ellen MacArthur Foundation and World Economic Forum. The New Plastics Economy: Rethinking the future of plastics. Ellen MacArthur Found. 2016;(January):120. European Commission. A European Strategy for Plastics. Eur Com [Internet]. 2018;(July):24. Available from: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/circular-economy/pdf/ plastics-strategy-brochure.pdf%0Ahttp://ec.europa.eu/ environment/circular-economy/index_en.htm Folino A, Pangallo D, Calabrò PS. Assessing bioplastics biodegradability by standard and research methods: Current trends and open issues. J Environ Chem Eng. 2023;11(2). Report T. EPIC 2000-Biodegradable polymers- A review. pdf.:1–11. Di Bartolo A, Infurna G, Dintcheva NT. A review of
bioplastics and their adoption in the circular economy. Polymers (Basel). 2021;13(8). 7. Li L, Huang W, Wang B, Wei W, Gu Q, Chen P. Properties and structure of polylactide/poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) (PLA/PHBV) blend fibers. Polymer (Guildf). 2015 Jun 26;68:183–94. 8. Hann S, Scholes R, Briedis R, Kirkevaag K. Biobased and Biodegradable Plastics: An Assessment of the Value Chain for Bio-Based and Biodegradable Plastics in Norway. Eunomia Nor Environ Agency. 2018; 9. Qi X, Ren Y, Wang X. New advances in the biodegradation of Poly(lactic) acid. Int Biodeterior Biodegradation. 2017 Feb 1;117:215–23. 10. Odegard I, Nusselder S, Roos Lindgreen E, Bergsma G, de Graaff L. Biobased Plastics in a Circular Economy Policy - Policy suggestions for biobased and biobased biodegradable plastics. Ce Delft. 2017;136. 11. Meereboer KW, Misra M, Mohanty AK. Review of recent advances in the biodegradability of polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) bioplastics and their composites. Green Chem. 2020;22(17):5519–58.
CELLULOSE
EXPLORING
Cellulose Waste Utilization Forms of Cellulose, Including Waste, Have Potential to Offer Competitive Performance to Synthetics with Environmental Benefits By Marie O’Mahony
N
ovel forms of cellulose, including waste, are being developed to of fer c omp etitive performance to synthetics with environmental benefits. Some of these will be very familiar, such as cotton, but others such as lignin, less so. As the technology to manufacture these materials advances so is the exploration of application areas where they have the potential to reduce e-waste and reuse valuable metals currently being lost to landfill and waterways. Fiber manufacturers, textile designers and traditional craft techniques from Japan are all exploring the use of cellulose waste in quite different ways. Cellulose materials such as wisteria, banana leaf, cotton and hemp were traditionally used and reused in Japan, while fiber manufacturers and contemporary textile designers are also turning to materials such as citrus peel, pineapple and seaweed to produce jacquard woven fabric. At Asahi Kasei’s Sustainable Polymers Lab in Japan, researchers are developing cellulose nanofibers (CNFs). The company has successfully combined CNF with
polyamide and polyacetal and lab manager Tomofumi Maekawa, they hope to be in a position to offer commercial quantities in the next two years. The process predominantly uses wood fiber, but the company is also working with cotton linter, the “fluff ” around the seed that carries a high cellulose content. The CNF has very good sliding properties that make it ideal for applications where movement and wear are issues, such as composite gears. The company are looking at largescale applications such as the replace-
Details from a Basho-fu jacket from the mid twentieth century comes from the Okinawa area of Japan using a type of wild banana leaf commonly found in the region.* Marie O’Mahony
ment of glass fiber reinforced plastics (GFRPs), to offer a more sustainable alternative to glass fiber. First there are issues of strength, scale for commercialization and cost to be overcome. Transparency will also be important, showing evidence of the environmental impact of the production and chemicals used, but ahead of that the source of the cotton itself. At launch, the automotive interior is likely to be the first major sector to adopt. It is a market that is ready, but also one that is already becoming populated. Researchers at the VTT Technical Research Center of Finland are addressing two environmental needs in their development of The original paper used in the making of ashehajiki was taken from used account books. These would have been painstakingly cut and the ink columns dispersed during the process of making the garment’s paper cordage. In the detail of Siân Bowen’s recreation of a Japanese ashehajiki garment, banana leaves are used to make abaca paper instead. Marie O’Mahony
ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 17
DITF lignin precursor fibers spun from water, stabilized and carbonized continuous fibers.
that it is well suited as a substrate for high-resolution printed electronics with good mechanical and optical properties. The researchers have used it to make an electrocardiograph (ECG) device and successfully tested it with human volunteers. Research has also been done on material degradation and the process for extracting metals with good results. The work looks to address limitations in paper as a source of cellulose for printed electronics where stretch, conformability and transparency are needed. E-waste is acknowledged to be one of the fastest
Marie O’Mahony
a biodegradable cellulose nanocomposite substrate for recyclable flexible hybrid electronics (FHE). FHE are most commonly printed onto a petroleum-based polymeric substrate such as thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), with the use of different materials making it difficult to repair or recycle. There is a growing call for a green electronics industry, and as the sector grows and integration miniaturizes further. This development uses a composite comprised of a cellulose nanofilament (CNF) coupled with a hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC). Studies so far indicate
DITF
“Planted” series by Tanja Kirst showcases the designer’s exploration of hemp and citrus, pineapple and seaweed yarn in a series of jacquard weaves. Exhibited at Material Matters during London Design Festival, 2023.
18 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
growing waste streams with materials that are highly polluting such as mercury and lead, as well as high-value materials including gold, silver and lithium being released into the environment. The researchers at VTT tested the product for both soil and marine degradation finding that within weeks this could be achieved so that printing inks and electronic components recoverable and reusable. Lignin is derived from wood, usually extracted as a waste biproduct such as paper production. However, it has proven difficult to manufacture until now so that only an estimated 2% is being used commercially. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have developed a process that allows them to manufacture carbon fibers from the cellulose. It offers energy-saving, environmental efficiencies and reduced cost. The process uses an aqueous solution of lignin. To do this the wood is separated into its components of lignin and cellulose. A sulfite digestion process enables the production of lignosulfate that is then dissolved in water. A dry spinning process is used to extrude the material through a nozzle and into a heated spinning shaft to produce a uniform continuous fiber, requiring no solvent or toxic additive. Following on from this, in order to produce a carbon fiber the lignin fibers are stabilized with hot air in an oven, achieved quickly and with relatively low temperature. This means an energy saving of around 50% compared with PAN. The resulting fibers offer sustainability and cost efficiencies, the DITF see the development as being of particular interest to the automotive and construction sectors. European researchers in a recent paper in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences points to lignin as an environmentally benign building block that is underutilized but with great possibilities across an array of applications, including Shape Memory Materials including polymers. The researchers from the Institute of Functional Materials in Germany, the laboratory of Polymers and Biomaterials and the Open University Affiliated Research Centre both at the Fondazione Instituto Italiano
VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland Ltd. Left: A fully assembled ECG device at the beginning of the soil degradation test. Center: The disintegrated device after three weeks of burial. Right: The recovered electronic components after sieving the soil with a 2 mm mesh.
di Tecnologia, point to its potential in Shape Memory Polymers (SMP) in particular. A multifunctional lignin-based material based on maleic anhydride grafted polyethylene elastomer has been found to be sensitized to light with AL used as a photo-thermal agent. The smart composite has been shown to have excellent lightcontrolled self-repairing properties as well as a light-activated shape-memory performance with potential applications such as robotics and sensors. The lignin itself is not smart but contributes through its ability to convert light into heat. There is still much work to be done before reaching commercialization on lignin within SMPs. The lignin extraction process, the type of wood, its age, the environmental conditions where the wood is grown, and the different parts of the wood used are just some of the variables that can impact on behavior. The researchers are keen to point out in their paper “Lignin, the Lignification Process, and Advanced, Lignin-based Materials” that much of this is at proof-ofconcept stage. In Italy, Orange Fiber is using citrus juice by-products to produce sustainable yarns using a patented technology. The cellulose is obtained from the citrus pulp. The waste after extracting juice is referred to as “pastazzo,” and accounts for 60% of the weight of the fruit so that the company are creating value in a sustainable product while reducing waste in citrus growing regions, such as Sicily.
Orange Fiber is developing fabrics with a number of partners including Tessitura Serica Taborelli, Tessuti di Sondrio and Candiani. Most recently they have collaborated with the Lenzing Group to create a Lyocell fiber using orange and wood pulp marketed under the brand TENCEL Limited Edition x Orange Fiber and used for apparel. The Danish textile designer, Tanja Kirst, specializes in textile weaving on a Jacquard loom. For the London Design Festival held in September this year, she created a collection of textile panels that combined hemp fiber with citrus peel as well as pineapple leaf fibers and seaweed yarns. All the yarns have been spun with bio-dyes at the TextielLab in The Netherlands. In Japan, wild banana leaves (Musa liukiuensis) have been used to provide fibers that are very fine and delicate. These were traditionally used to make a Bashofu (banana fiber) jacket. Textile crafts such as this are being recognized as an important cultural tradition and afforded the title of Intangible Cultural Asset. In rural Japan, an ashehajiki is the name given to an undergarment referred to as a “sweat repeller.” The warp can be cotton and the thread for the weft made of paper. Siân Bowen is Artist-in-Residence (20222025) at London’s Kew Gardens. She is in the process of making a replica ashehajiki using abaca paper that is made from banana leaf and Japanese wheat starch. The original garment dates from the nineteenth century and is housed in the Harry S. Parkes Collection of Japanese Paper in the garden’s Economic Botany Collection. Because the original garment has no seams, the only way that the artist could fully understand the garment was
by the process of making it herself. This involves repeated plaiting, dividing and twinning four strands of the paper cord. A single line of plaits across the back of the garment takes around three hours to complete. This type of ethnographic research has an important role to play in inspiring new yarns and textiles. Not in a literal translation, but in their design, functionality, use and reuse of local material. Twenty years ago, I visited Patagonia’s head office in California and one thing that I was not expecting to see was a small collection of ethnographic garments that I was told were the personal collection of the founder Yvon Chouinard. They included a Chinese fisherman’s bamboo jacket made of a lattice configuration not unlike the ashehajiki in the result, but a different structure made of tiny bamboo long “beads” brought together in a net-like structure. This became the inspiration for Patagonia’s Polartech grid fleece. In a talk given to the American Society of Craftsmen in the middle of the last century, Charles Eames maintained that industry and craft had much to gain from one another. It would seem that we still have much to learn from one another. *The Basho-fu jacket, as well as the ashehajiki jacket were exhibited at “The Japanese Aesthetics of Recycling” exhibition held at the SOAS Gallery, London July 13 – September 23, 2023.
Dr. Marie O’Mahony is an industry consultant, author and academic, the author of several books on advanced and smart textiles published by Thames and Hudson. She can be contacted at marie.consultant@ gmail.com. www.linkedin.com/in/marie-omahony-94776836. ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 19
RECYCLING
There are now 47,406 voluntary drop-off points for waste clothing, household linen and footwear across France. Refashion
Extended Producer
RESPONSIBILITY IN ACTION France Points to the Future for the European Union and Recycling By Adrian Wilson, International Correspondent, IFJ
20 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
I
t’s no accident that there is currently so much activity related to recycling textile waste and the production of regenerated fibers currently being announced in France. The country has had an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme for waste clothing, household linen and footwear (CHF) in operation since 2008, under which manufacturers pay annual fees for its collection and sorting. The European Commission’s Textiles Strategy is mandating the separate
collection of waste CHF Europe-wide from 2025, so it’s interesting to note what progress has been made in France to date. The first thing to say is that the scheme is extremely complex, with so many companies and institutions involved, so many factors that have to be taken into account and the complicated calculations that are necessary, and in many cases have to be approximated. There are, for instance, now 47,406 voluntary CHF drop-off points which are being overseen by 583 local authorities across France, and 67 separate sorting
companies with differing technologies involved in dealing with the waste as part of the EPR scheme. Meanwhile, 6,087 participating manufacturing companies made declarations to the scheme in 2022, with 4,354 registered as putting less than 5,000 items on the market and 1,733 companies who produced more than 5,000.
Paris-headquartered Refashion was created solely to manage the scheme, and is accredited by the French authorities and governed by 29 manufacturers and brands, and three industry federations. In the last clear indication of the annual cost of the scheme to industry, Refashion reports that in 2021 some 4,351 companies paid in €71.44 per ton of waste, based on an estimated 715,290 tons of CHF put on the market, which equates to fees of over €51 million. The scheme is currently undergoing a change in methodology which shows 2022 as a “blank” year in terms of fees declared, as readjustments to accounting are made. It would be also in the interest of transparency if those 29 brands and manufacturers governing the scheme – who include major names like C&A, Decathlon and LVMH (owner of Louis Vuitton and Dior) – included their own annual production figures in tonnage or items placed on the market within Refashion’s annual
Bertrand Lapègue
Management
The new CETIA recycling facility has a proprietary system for the robotic separation and sorting of shoes.
reporting, as examples for others to follow. There’s so much talk about the need for transparency from brands right now, but the majority are reluctant to disclose how much they actually produce each year.
Collection In 2022, however, Refashion calculated that 3.3 billion items of CHF were placed on the French market in 2022, representing an estimated volume of 826,935 tons. Collection in 2022 was 260,403 tons and 187,609 tons was successfully sorted – the objective is to collect 300,000 tons per year, and sort all of it.
French Minister for Industry Roland Lescure (left) with representatives of partner brands and Carbios CEO Emmanuel Ladent (far right) at the opening of the company’s new fiber preparation line. Carbios
In 2022, 59.5% of the quantities collected and sorted were considered to be reusable. Less than 10% of these items will be sold in France and add to the quantities of clothing and footwear sent for redeployment before sorting. It is estimated that between 10,000 and 30,000 tons per year of CHF are redeployed mainly in outlets run by charities. The remainder are exported to other countries, primarily in Asia and Africa, with Pakistan and Tunisia the leading destinations. The challenge in the years to come remains to optimize the reuse rate within France and Europe. Refashion carried out audits of 53 of its members responsible for putting some 566 million items of CHF on the market during 2022.
Eco-Modulation In 2023, Refashion’s plan involves overseeing a total fund of almost €93 million, with €39 million going to the funding of sorting, local authority initiatives and R&D activities, €15 million on repair and redeployment of the waste CHF and most interestingly, over $13 million in the payment of so-called “eco-modulation” bonuses. Specifically, products incorporating raw materials from the recycling of postconsumer CHF waste collected or funded by an approved organization qualify for a bonus of €1,000 per ton, and those made ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 21
including packaging, carpets and textiles of any color, transparency or condition, and even ocean plastics that have been degraded by the sun and salt. The resulting monomers are filtered, purified and polymerized to create virgin-quality Infinite Loop-branded PET resin suitable for use in both food-grade packaging and polyester fibers. The monomers can be recycled infinitely without degradation of quality, it is claimed. This project will follow on from the first Infinite Loop manufacturing facility which is being built in Ulsan, South Korea, and will also have an annual capacity of 70,000 tons.
Enzymatic Recycling Eastman is investing up to $1 billion in its French material-to-material molecular recycling facility. PRNewswire
from recycled mill waste a bonus of €500 per ton – significant concessions when considering the huge volumes that can be involved.
Incentives In short, this is further incentivizing the use of recycled fibers by making it economically advantageous, and in parallel with other support measures from the French government, is resulting in some very major initiatives. Two of the biggest involve chemical companies supplying the raw materials for the production of synthetic fibers, and specifically PET polyester. In January 2022, French President Emmanuel Macron and Mark Costa, CEO of Eastman, jointly announced a plan to invest up to $1 billion in a material-tomaterial molecular recycling facility in Port-Jérôme-sur-Seine, in Normandy, France. It will use Eastman’s polyester renewal technology to recycle up to 160,000 metric tons of waste annually and is scheduled to become operational by 2025. The multi-phase project includes units that will prepare mixed plastic waste for processing, a methanolysis unit to depolymerize the waste, and polymer lines to create a variety of first-quality materials
22 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
for both packaging and textile applications. Eastman’s polyester renewal technology promises to retain the value of materials almost infinitely, by keeping them in production, lifecycle after lifecycle. With the technology’s inherent efficiencies and the renewable energy sources available in France, materials can also be produced with greenhouse gas emissions of up to 80% less than traditional methods.
Loop Technology Paris-headquartered water solutions leader Suez is meanwhile partnering with SK Geo Centric (SKGC), a subsidiary of the South Korean chemicals giant SK Group, to establish a €450 million PET plastic and fiber recycling plant in SaintAvold, based on the technology of Loop Industries. With commissioning also planned for 2025, the facility will manufacture 100% recycled and infinitely recyclable virginquality PET resin with a planned capacity of 70,000 tons per year. Loop Industries, headquartered in Montreal, Canada, owns patented and proprietary technology that can depolymerize PET plastic and polyester fiber waste currently of little or no value,
Carbios and PET plastics and fiber leader Indorama Ventures are partnering to build an enzymatic PET bio-recycling production plant in Longlaville, Meurthe-et-Moselle, France, with a processing capacity of around 50,000 tons of post-consumer PET waste per year – the equivalent to 2 billion PET bottles or 2.5 billion PET trays. The capital investment required for the project is expected to be around €150 million for the Carbios core technology, with an estimated €50 million for the infrastructure preparation of the site. Carbios has received strong financial support from the French Government and from the Grand-Est Region for the project. Carbios is a pioneer in the development of enzymatic solutions dedicated to the end-of-life of plastic and textile polymers and fibers and has already successfully started-up a demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand.
Preparation for Recycling At the beginning of October this year, Carbios inaugurated its textile preparation for recycling line at the ClermontFerrand site, in the presence of French Minister for Industry, Roland Lescure. To streamline the textile preparation phase, which is currently carried out by hand or on several lines, Carbios has developed a fully integrated and automated line that transforms textile waste from used garments or cutting scraps into the
raw material suitable for depolymerization with its enzymatic biorecycling process. This patented line integrates all preparation stages including shredding and the extraction of hard materials such as buttons or fasteners and provides Carbios with a high-performance, scalable development tool. The capacity of the new line is 300kg per hour in a continuous process.
Mechanical Recycling With the acquisition of Laroche, based in Cours La Ville, France, at the end of 2020, the Graz, Austria-headquartered Andritz Group became a leader in the field of mechanical fiber recycling. Laroche has specialized in fiber recycling lines for both spinning and nonwovens for just short of 100 years and the acquisition complements the leading position of Andritz in nonwovens technology. Andritz Laroche has been involved in a number of new French recycling projects, including Renaissance Textile, established by workwear specialists Klopman and TDV Industries, which aims to localize a circular supply chain for workwear fabrics in Europe – currently 85% dependent on non-European countries. Unlocking the potential of automatic sorting in order to accommodate more recycled fibers is the aim of another project in which Andritz is partnering with companies Pellenc ST and Synergies TLC. The three companies are setting up a new industrial-scale business called Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, combining Pellenc ST’s automated sorting technologies with Andritz recycling machines. Pellenc ST has installed more than 2,000 machines globally, including those for sorting fibrous materials such as paper, as well as plastics. “Nouvelles Fibres Textiles will process post-consumer textile waste to produce recycled fibers engineered for the spinning, nonwovens and composites industries,” said Andritz product manager Elina Peronen. “It will serve as a production line and also as an R&D line for the three partners, as well as a test and demonstration center for customers.”
Andritz tearing line at the Renaissance Textile plant in France.
CETIA This September also saw the inauguration of CETIA, a new center dedicated to textile recycling in Hendaye in the south of France, as a subsidiary of research organizations CETI and ESTIA Leveraging automation, robotics and artificial intelligence, its aim is to build efficient systems to make recycling operations competitive. Its work will involve prototyping concepts with the aim of removing technological barriers and establishing their technical feasibility on an industrial scale, developing pilot lines and launching preproduction runs. It will further transfer core competence and skills for the implementation of solutions at customer sites. The 1,200-square-metre CETIA site at Hendaye is equipped with a Valvan Fibersort machine for sorting waste textiles by both composition and color into ten separate bins, using NIR and RGB technologies, with a throughput of a garment each second. Two openers and a cleaning willow supplied by Dell’Orco and Villani, with a capacity of 600kg per hour, are further
© Robin Inizan, Lucas Pavy Production
in place for the separation of fibers and trims from waste garments. A proprietary system for the separation and sorting of shoes is also being developed as part of the Re-Shoes project, using robotics to remove glued, sewn, injected or vulcanized soles at a rate of 120 shoes per hour to date.
Brands support CETIA is supported by a number of brands, including Decathlon and Zalando, and has received €900,000 from Refashion to fund projects, along with almost €1m million from the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. It may have taken a while, but all things considered, it looks like France is now setting the pace in establishing a fiber-to-fiber ecosystem for other nations to follow. Adrian Wilson is an international correspondent for International Fiber Journal. He is a leading journalist covering fiber, filtration, nonwovens and technical textiles. He can be reached at adawilson@gmail.com. ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 23
RESETTING
This year’s Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress featured around 125 presentations on fiber innovation, recycling, circular economy, sustainability, nonwovens, technical textiles, sports and apparel.
THE
Global Supply Chain Fundamental Changes are Required to Support Circular Ideas By Geoff Fisher, European Editor, IFJ
For three days each year in September, Dornbirn in western Austria – one of the smartest cities in Europe – is the center of the textile world, with networking and cross-industry partnerships beginning to bear fruit.
T
he fibers sector faces tough challenges in the years leading up to 2030 and beyond. Difficult – and critical choices – will have to be made about raw materials, energy sources, products and processes, a major international conference was told. While the circular economy and recycling continue to be the main issues facing the fiber and textile industry, legislation appears to be the key agent that will drive circularity and force major change in global supply chains. In the European Union (EU), for example, a strategy on textiles is being translated into regulations as a new initiative on recycling textile waste is launched. For synthetic fibers the message is clear – the industry needs to move away from petroleum-based raw materials toward renewable and recyclable material inputs. But while fibers, and therefore textiles, re-
24 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
and new business models. Dornbirn GFC shows once again that it is the perfect place for such new partnerships.”
Healthy Growth Potential main an environmental problem, they are here to stay; polyester, in particular, will not disappear any time soon.
Fundamental Change Required Despite the difficult economic and geopolitical climate, more than 550 participants from over 30 countries attended the 62nd Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress (GFC), which featured around 125 presentations on fiber innovation, recycling, circular economy, sustainability, nonwovens, technical textiles, sports and apparel. Opening the congress, Robert van de Kerkhof, chief sustainability officer of Austria-based cellulosic fibers producer Lenzing and president of the Dornbirn GFC, said: “The challenges currently facing the fiber industry require fundamental changes in the value chains. We see new strategic partnerships being formed to take advantage of new opportunities around innovation, the circular economy
Stephan Sielaff, chief executive officer of Lenzing, noted that while the global fiber market has seen many challenges since the 1960s, it has always recovered. It continues to show a healthy growth potential, with an average annual increase of 2.4% predicted by 2030, which means an additional demand of 27 million tonnes a year of fibers. The key drivers of this growth are an increase in the global population, a rise in the middle class, especially in Asia, and more “conscious” consumers, said Sielaff. He noted that of the total man-made fibers market, synthetic fibers currently account for 92% with a forecast growth rate of 2.7% per annum to 2030, which translates to an additional 20 million tonnes a year. Cellulosic fibers currently account for 8% with a forecast growth rate of 5.6% per annum to 2030 – an additional four million tonnes a year. However, growth in natural fibers is expected to remain flat
Photos courtesy of Dornbirn GFC
DORNBIRN GFC
owing to pressures on land use and other environmental concerns. “The fashion industry is heavily criticized for its impact on the environment, and consumers really do care about the products they buy and also about the processes,” said Sielaff. “At the same time, consumers are overwhelmed about their purchasing decisions. “They rely on brands that give them a promise that the products they buy are sustainable and we [the fiber industry] have to help them to ensure that the brands follow those promises – without confusing them.” Sielaff noted that 20% of all women’s garments bought in Germany, for example, are worn “less than once” – the percentage for men is even higher. “Our value chain is creating waste, during and after the manufacturing process,” he said. “We are still using virgin material today, depleting resources, and we are throwing away the products at the end of their use – this is not sustainable and has to change. “But we can make this value chain more sustainable; the key is networking. Circularity is the key driver, moving away from a linear business model. We should buy less and buy more consciously. “And circularity starts with the design of a product. Producers have to play a role, making the right products using the right processes. So, we should stop using coal, phase out natural gas and use more green energy – and work on more fiberto-fiber solutions.”
EU Textile Strategy The EU textile industry is moving from being a fairly unregulated sector to becoming a highly regulated one, according to Dirk Vantyghem, director general of Euratex, the European Apparel and Textile Confederation. He said European institutions are making rapid progress in implementing the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, which was launched in 2022. The framework will introduce 16 separate pieces of legislation that companies have to comply with, although this is still under negotiation.
“There is a lot of textile-bashing in the media and a lot of confusion about textiles, but we need to be very clear in our communication about how the industry is making efforts to become more sustainable,” said Vantyghem. “We also have to be more transparent in our communication. For example, today there are more than 100 sustainability labels. “We are at a crossroads and there will be many changes and casualties, as well
ReHubs Initiative It is estimated that Europe produces around 7.0–7.5 million tonnes of textile waste a year, of which only 30–35% is currently collected. An amendment to the EU Waste Framework Directive will see mandatory separate collection of textile waste coming into force on January 1, 2025.
Left to right: Robert van de Kerkhof, chief sustainability officer, Lenzing; Friedrich Weninger, managing director, Austrian Fibers Institute; and Andreas Dorner, director, commercial fibers, Europe and Americas, Lenzing. The 62nd Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress attracted more than 550 participants from over 30 countries.
as a lot of new start-ups. But we need to join forces and work together more than ever within the textile value chain. “The EU’s new framework of rules and regulations will see the market move from being based solely on free trade to freebut-fair trade, and it is essential to create a level playing field for all operating within it,” he said. Vantyghem said European companies are committed to investing in sustainability, developing new circular business models and producing high-quality textile products as required by the new legislation. “We are working in Brussels to ensure a clear and coherent regulatory framework that is realistic, enforceable and not damaging to small and medium-sized enterprises,” he said. “And all of this has to be developed in a global context to ensure the EU strategy becomes a global strategy.”
Euratex has welcomed the EU’s regulatory effort to solve the problem of waste, both to reduce waste and to enable textile waste recycling. And in October, it officially launched a new non-profit organization that aims to boost textile recycling. ReHubs Europe will gather key players from the textile value chain, including manufacturers, fashion brands, collectors and recyclers, as well as chemical industry and technology providers, with the ambition of recycling 2.5 million tonnes of textile waste by 2030. This will require up to 250 industrial projects across Europe, covering different types of fiber-to-fiber recycling, and an investment of €6–7 billion to scale up a sufficient sorting and processing infrastructure. ReHubs estimates that the economic, social and environmental value of the initiative could be worth €3.5–4.5 billion a ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 25
year by the end of the decade and create around 15,000 new direct jobs. Chris Deloof will lead ReHubs Europe as executive director. The organization will operate from Brussels, Belgium, in close partnership with Euratex. Membership is open to any companies who wish to invest in textile waste recycling in Europe. Meanwhile, led by Switzerland-based Texaid, a leading European organization for collecting, sorting and recycling used textiles, “Transform Waste into Feedstock” has been announced as the first project supported by ReHubs, which aims to build up a 50,000-tonnes capacity facility by 2024.
The Third Innovation Days featured 25 start-up companies.
New World Order In a comprehensive overview of global trade and the new world order, Giuseppe Gherzi, CEO of textile management consultancy Gherzi Engineering, Switzerland, stated that India will soon become the world’s largest consumer market for textiles and footwear, overtaking China, while Nigeria, with a forecast population of 730 million in 2045, will also catch up. He said total fiber consumption in 2022 was 120 million tonnes, with filament dominating with 62 million tonnes and polyester the leading fiber material; Gherzi expects total global consumption to rise to 140 million tonnes by 2030. However, consumption of traditional textiles, especially garments, will increase very little in future owing to more reuse and resale, he said. The biggest growth will be in nonwovens, as well as prepreg/composites and technical textiles. In addition, around two million tonnes of fibers are currently recycled per year using mechanical recycling methods, which is forecast to increase to 10 million tonnes by 2030. Gherzi believes the mid-price garment sector will shrink in favor of both luxury products and the low-price segment, with department store sales losing significant market share and online sales growing. He noted that while more than half of the global labor force (aged 15–64 years) is in the Asia-Pacific region, this share is expected to gradually decline, while the proportion in Africa and the Americas will rise.
26 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
The exhibition area featured some 20 producers and research institutes covering a wide range of fibers and textile processes.
Innovation Days The Third Innovation Days at this year’s Dornbirn GFC featured 25 start-up companies presenting their novelties in a fourth lecture hall, as well as a meeting point with delegates in the foyer of the Dornbirn Kulturhaus. “Dornbirn GFC is a great opportunity for innovators to meet the decision makers in the fiber and textile industry,” said Bjol Frenkenberger of MIR Insight, Norway, one of the participants in the conference-within-a-conference. “The congress with its focus on innovation and research offers an inspiring environment for highquality contacts.” Meanwhile, a special block of lectures during the congress was the result of cooperation on the topic of sustainability and the circular economy between RWTH Aachen University, Germany and European industry partners. Texaid started this section of presentations, discussing how spinning mills turn recycled material into yarn.
Dornbirn Awards During the congress opening, the Paul Schlack/Wilhem Albrecht 2023 prize was awarded to Dr. Henriette Grellmann for her work at the Institute of Textile
Machinery, Technische Universität Dresden, Germany, on the development of textile-based actuator and sensor systems for adaptive fiber-elastomer composites. The second honorary prize was awarded to Dr. Tim Höhnemann of the German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research (DITF), Denkendorf, Germany, for his work on the generation of monofilaments with defined cross-sectional shape from polymer melt, in work carried out at the Friedrich-Alexander-Universität ErlangenNürnberg, Germany. Meanwhile, a jury of experts from the fiber industry selected two winners of this year’s Lenzing Young Scientist Award: Nina Sirén, a student at Aalto University, Finland, for her study comparing preconsumer modal with modal recycled using the Ioncell process, and Clara Davis, a researcher at Eurecat – Centro Tecnológico de Cataluña, Spain, for her work exploring the potential of using bacterial nanocellulose as a tree-free feedstock for regenerated cellulose fibers.
Management Change During the reception hosted by the Mayor of Dornbirn, Andrea Kaufmann, it was announced that Friedrich Weninger, who has organized the fiber conference as managing director of the Austrian Fiber Institute since 2015, will step down over the next two to three years, allowing Andreas Dorner, currently director, commercial fibers, Europe and Americas, at Lenzing, to take over management of the event, initially as co-managing director. The 63rd Dornbirn GFC is scheduled for September 11–13, 2024 in Dornbirn. The topics of circular economy, recycling and sustainability will continue as main themes, alongside nonwovens and technical textiles. www.dornbirn-gfc.com
Geoff Fisher is the European editor of International Fiber Journal and a director of Textile Media Services, a B2B publisher of news and market reports on transport textiles, medical textiles, smart materials and emerging markets. He has more than 35 years of experience covering fibers and technical textiles. He can be contacted at gfisher@textilemedia.com or +44 7803 718443.
WEAVING SCIENCE
Woven Narrow Fabrics for Applications Requiring
SUPERIOR PROPERTIES Selecting the Textile Construction Method That Ensures End Item Performance By Ted Fetterman, Bally Ribbon Mills
oven narrow fabrics can serve as structure or substrate for components in critical customer applications that require superior properties. End product designers and engineers should understand weaving technology and how it differs from other textile production so they can correctly select a textile construction method that ensures end item performance.
W
Weaving of Narrow Fabrics – The Basics Weaving is a method of creating a structural textile by interlacing fibers and yarns in a way that maximizes specific fiber properties. Weaving yarns are interlaced in a perpendicular manner, with both longitudinal yarns (x-direction), and horizontal yarns (y-direction). Known respectively as warp and weft or filling yarns, they are oriented at 90 degrees to each other. Weaving produces a stable construction in both the x and y directions. In fact, of all the available methods used to create textile material, weaving provides the most stable and versatile construct. Key properties include high strength, elongation, energy absorption, optimum strength to weight ratios, flexibility, and sewability. Narrow fabrics are generally divided into two types: webbing and tape. Webbing, narrow fabrics 12 inches wide or less,
Highly engineered woven narrow fabrics can be the substrate in critical customer applications that require superior properties.
refers to fabric with a longitudinal strength equal to or greater than 1000 pounds per inch of width. Tape refers to narrow fabrics with a longitudinal strength of less than 1000 pounds per inch of width. Both shuttle looms and needle looms are used to manufacture both structural webbing and tape. The needle loom is designed for speed and is the best option for large runs of production material. A shuttle loom enables more weave design versatility and provides structural, uniform, and woven edges that results in more even loading across the webbing’s width. This method is preferred for applications requiring maximum weave design flexibility. Flat woven, tubular material and 3-D fabrics can all be produced with
perfect symmetry on both edges of the woven substrate. This provides uniform edge loading during, for example, highspeed deployment of parachutes.
Weave Design Options Several weave designs are available to meet specific application requirements. 1. Plain weave is the simplest form of weaving. The filling/weft is inserted up and down every other warp yarn. Edge binding and reinforcement tapes utilize plain weave designs due to their need for high structural stability and minimum surface abrasion. 2. Twill weave involves passing the filling/weft yarn over or under two more warp yarns. It is generally softer and more ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 27
Highly engineered woven narrow fabrics can be the substrate in critical customer applications that require superior properties.
pliable than a plain weave and has increased tensile and decreased elongation properties. Twill constructions are used to bind edges with complex curves and tight corners and for high strength applications that require maximum strength of the woven warp yarns. 3. Tubular weave joins two sets of warps yarns at the edges. When woven on a shuttle loom, the fabric created is completely seamless, resulting in a fabric with a uniform water porosity and air permeability property. Often designed into filtration and other medical device applications, tubular webbings are also utilized for their hoop strength in inflatable vessel constructions. 4. Stuffer yarn constructions are those with a tubular weave to which a stuffer yarn and a binder yarn is added to multilayer woven fabrics to add strength. One example is industrial belting applications that use woven thermoplastic fibers around aramid stuffer yarns used for its high tensile properties. The method is also used in parachute harness webbing to improve webbing strength and stiffness. The binder yarns act as woven sewing type stitches that help to stabilize the weave and lock in the jacket fibers with the stuffer yarns. Many variables affect the success of a specific webbing. Questions to consider during the design process include: • What performance properties will be required in the final weave design? • What is the stiffness requirement? How should it feel when held? • What type of hardware will be required? • What termination method will be used? • Does the end-use application require specific consideration?
28 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
• For composite applications, what are the specific properties of different fibers required?
Fiber Size and Strength Weaving yarns are composed of bundles of individual filaments of a specified number. When these filaments have long continuous lengths, it gives the yarn optimum strength and tensile resistance. All types of manmade fibers are specified for size. Comparisons are made among fibers by referring to their denier, which equals the mass in grams of 9000 meters of weaving yarn. For example, a 220 denier nylon is composed of a smaller bundle of continuous filament fibers and has less mass than a 440 denier nylon, so it is less strong. The strength to mass ratio is in direct proportion; for example, 440 denier nylon 6.6 has two-times the strength as 220 denier nylon 6.6 from the same batch of fiber. Fiber producers publish tenacity values that can be valuable for comparison purposes, but actual tensile strength yields of woven fabrics will be less than these
published numbers. This is due to a concept known as translational strength, defined as a comparison of the properties of a fabric to that of the input base fiber. Due to many weaving process variables, translational tensile strength yields are typically 20-40 percent less than published fiber tensile strengths. It is critical to understand the many trade-offs needed to achieve performance characteristics and the relationship between variables and performance.
Fiber Selection Fiber selection is an important aspect of woven fabric design. Available options include natural fibers, standard manmade fibers, and high-performance advanced fibers. Natural Fibers Cotton is the most typical natural fiber used in webbings, especially for packing material for mechanical bearings and flame wick applications. Preferred for next-to-skin contact, cotton is not used for most industrial applications.
Fabric selection is an important aspect of woven fabric design.
Weaving is a method of creating a structural textile by interlacing fibers and yarns in a way that maximizes specific fiber properties. It is difficult to produce structural cotton webbings using U.S. cottons that meet United States Military Standard (MIL-SPEC) specifications for thickness, strength, and weight. However, the Berry Amendment requires that fibers be grown in the U.S. for U.S. DOD contracts. This can present challenges when using cotton webbing for technical applications and may require that end users consider nylon or polyester webbing as an alternative. Man-Made Fibers Man-made fibers include such standard options as nylon, polyester, polypropylene, and rayon. Nylon is used on many webbing applications because of its toughness, strength, durability, and dyeability. Nylon will elongate under load, which absorbs energy, making it a good choice for parachutes and PPE/fall protection applications. Nylon is also hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture. While all fabrics will wick moisture, the nylon fiber itself will gain moisture content. Polyester is another common standard manmade fiber used in webbing construction. With a strength similar to nylon, polyester has a lower elongation property, making it a good option for automotive and aircraft seatbelts. Polyester is hydrophobic, so it has minimal moisture regain and can be used for applications at or around fresh and salt water. Polyester is dyeable but must be dyed at a higher temperature and pressure than nylon. High Performance/Advanced Fibers Polymer chemistries advancements have given high-tech fibers desirable inherent properties, for example, greater strength to weight ratios, high temperature resistance, chemical resistance, and minimized elongation properties. Key examples include aramids, UHMWPE (ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene), PPS (polyphenylene sulfide), and PBO (polybenzoxazole).
High performance fibers feature greater strength to weight ratios, high temperature resistance, chemical resistance, and minimized elongation.
Webbing Used in Critical Applications Requiring Superior Properties BRM designs, engineers, and manufactures woven materials that serve as structure or substrate for components in critical customer applications that require superior properties, including: • Strength: specific, interlaminar shear, enduring • Resistance: impact, abrasion, chemical, environmental • Light weight, reclaimable • Conducting, sensing • Shapes: 2D, 3D For example, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) fiber chemistry makes fibers resistant to specific chemical exposure and gives them a natural lubricity. BRM uses this type of fiber on the webbing surface to impart a wear-surface. One successful application is as a wear surface for structural components of highway bridges. The other fibers used in this proprietary construction are high strength aramid, which gives the fabric the strength needed to survive the tensile and compression forces on concrete and steel bridge structures from high-weight vehicle travel and thermal expansion and contraction. Another example is PPS, used in industrial filtration and air cleaning, where high concentrations of sulfuric acid must be removed from effluent air from power plants and other industrial processes. A final example is a woven composite belting/narrow fabric being utilized in a proprietary application as a drive/control belt in a machinery process. The customer pursued the use of DuPont™ Kevlar® aramid, whose high strength and low elongation
seemed ideal. However, Kevlar tends to degrade from bending fatigue. To counteract this negative property, BRM added polypropylene fibers to the outer jacket of the woven material to provide some protection. The final item is heated to approximately 300 degrees F, at which point the polypropylene melts around and through the Kevlar fibers, completely encapsulating the aramid fiber and providing a wear surface and protection from flexural fatigue.
Understanding the Art and Science of Weaving Weaving is both an art and a science. Many variables affect the success of a specific webbing, irrespective of predictions based on bench top design. With its years of experience, BRM understands how to control many of these variables, but such knowledge does not necessarily always improve strength yields. That is why BRM always runs rigorous trials at the loom to test properties and understand the trade-offs that must be made to ensure fabric performance. Using a careful iterative process to create innovative new fabric prototypes, BRM designs solutions with fabrics that meet a wide range of property requirements for highly engineered applications. After all, we have material on the planet Mars! Ted Fetterman is Vice President, Sales and Marketing at Bally Ribbon Mills. He maintains oversight responsibility for sales, marketing, customer service, R&D and Engineering. He has been with Bally Ribbon Mills for 28 years and specializes in customer relationships, product development, and innovation. ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 29
XXX
China’s Fast-Growing Carbon Fiber Demand Expanding Sustainability Includes Exploring Fiber Advancements in China for the Growth of Their Green Economy By Jason Chen
t the 29th China International Manmade Fiber Conference (CIMFC), September 26-27 in Jilin City, Jilin Province, China, experts and executives spoke about challenges and opportunities, advanced materials, manufacturing technologies, and sustainability relevant to the manmade fiber industry. More than 30 speakers and approximate 400 fiber professionals attended the conferences for two days of programming. Speakers and attendees were primarily from mainland China, with representatives from the Europe, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Taiwan, and Thailand also in attendance. The conference was organized by the China National Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC), the Jilin Municipal Government, the China Chemical Fibers Association (CCFA), the China Textile International Exchange Center (CTIEC), and Jilin Mr. Chen Chemical Fiber Group Xinwei, president ( J C FG), th e w orl d ’s of CCFA, hosted second largest carbon the conferences. fiber producer, which is
A
30 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
Mr. Duan Xiaoping, vice president of CNTAC, spoke about the challenges and opportunities for the Chinese manmade fiber industry.
headquartered in Jilin City. A combined conference, the 10th China Carbon Valley Carbon Fiber Industry Conference (CCVCFIC), was also held simultaneously with the CIMFC, making carbon fiber a main focus of the events.
Ambition for Carbon Fibers
Jilin Province is where China started its dream for carbon fibers. In 1962, the Changchun Institute of Applied Chemistry (CIAC), a Chinese Academy of Sciences (CAS) branch located in Changchun City, the capital of Jilin Province, began the research and development for carbon fibers. But commercialization hadn’t been achieved until in the 2000s when JCFG and several other Chinese companies launched their carbon fiber lines. JCFG, founded in 1959 as one of China’s oldest manmade fiber producers, started to manufacture carbon fibers in 2007. Today it has capacity of 49,000 metric tons per year, ranking No. 2 in the world, only
after Toray. In addition, it has annual capacity of 160,000 metric tons of carbon fiber precursor, and 20,000 metric tons of carbon fiber composites. JCFG has an even bigger plan. Currently, it is building several new plants, aiming to expand its capacity to exceed 400,000 metric tons per year in the near Mr. Song future. The goal includes Dewu, president 100,000 metric tons of of JCFG, spoke in carbon fibers, 330,000 the conferences. metric tons of carbon fiber precursors, and 65,000 metric tons of carbon fiber composites. JCFG’s ambitious expansion is based on China’s fast-growing carbon fiber demand. In 2022, China’s apparent consumption for carbon fibers reached 70,300 metric tons, up 21.98% from 57,600 metric tons in the previous year. Homegrown producers only met part of the demand, with 29,300 metric tons of carbon fibers and their related products imported in 2022. The fast growth and the gap between supply and demand attract Chinese companies to invest a lot more to expand their capacity rapidly.
Carbon Reduction Boosts Carbon Fibers The booming demand for carbon fibers is mostly boosted by China’s efforts for a green economy. In September 2020, China proposed its “double carbon goal” of reaching peak carbon emissions by 2030 and achieving carbon neutrality by 2060. For this goal, China will largely increase its renewable energy output to replace conventional energy, and wind energy is one such solution. Wind power generation emits zero greenhouse gases, and carbon fibers are the main materials for making turbine blades of wind power plants. Compared to its main competitor fiberglass, carbon fiber helps reduce the blade weight by approximate 30% due to its light weight and high strength properties. The weight reduction would allow the production of longer blades, which have higher energy efficiency than their shorter counterparts. As a result, carbon fiber has been gradually replacing fiberglass, becoming a primary material for making wind power blades. China installed over 37.63 million kilowatts of wind power capacity in 2022, increasing its total wind power capacity to 365 million kilowatts. The installation of wind power in 2022 consumed 23.5% of China’s carbon fibers, or 16,520 metric tons, according to ATA Carbon Fiber Tech Guangzhou Co Ltd (ATA), a Chinese consultancy. At the same time, China has a goal for wind power of exceeding 581 million kilowatts by 2025, which means the country will install at least another 216 million kilowatts of wind power capacity in the following three years, creating a demand for another 95,000 metric tons of carbon fibers from 2023 to 2025.
Car Weight Reduction China’s double carbon goal also relies on emission reduction from other industries such as automobile and aerospace through using advanced materials such as carbon fiber reinforced polymers (CFRPs). For automobiles, CFRPs are often used to make the bodies, chassis, and suspension system components, reducing 20% to 50% weight compared to their metal counterparts. When an automobile reduces
10% weight, it typically reduces 6% to 8% energy consumption. As transportation accounts for around 10% of China’s total greenhouse gas emissions, the use of CFRPs will help China reduce a substantial amount of greenhouse gas emissions. Mr. Ye Fuheng, senior engineer and researcher of China FAW Group Co Ltd (FAW), one of China’s oldest and largest automakers, spoke about carbon fibers’ use Mr. Ye Fuheng for FAW automobiles in the 29th CIMFC. He said that FAW had been developing carbon fiber-based components since 2012, and the company’s flagship model, Hongqi, has used carbon fibers for making engine hook, wrap frame, and other structural components. According to ATA, Chinese automakers took 2.56% of the country’s carbon fiber consumption in 2021, or a total of 1,475 metric tons. Automobiles’ carbon fiber consumption is expected to have a double-digit annual growth rate in the following decade.
Low Manufacturing Cost, Recycling and Bio-Based Route Although having all the advantages and benefits, carbon fibers are expensive to manufacture, impacting their adoption. Currently, the prices of carbon fibers mostly range from $13 to $35 per kilograms, depending on grades, manufacturers, and specific deals. As a result, experts are looking for new solutions to lower the manufacturing costs for market expansion. Mr. Ziwen Liu, research assistant at Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA), introduced a method to shorten the stabilization time Mr. Ziwen Liu by 20% by using potassium permanganate (KMnO4), or nitrogen (N2), under atmospheric pressure as pretreatment media. Today, about 96% of the world’s carbon fibers are produced by spinning polyacrylonitrile (PAN) co-polymer to form PAN fibers, and then thermally converting the PAN fibers to carbon
fibers. The thermal conversion process includes multiple steps such as stabilization and carbonization. Stabilization usually accounts for 15%-18% of the total cost of making carbon fibers. Mr. Liu said that the method not only reduces the stabilization time, but also lowers the stabilization temperature. The reduced time and lower temperature would result in energy reduction and cost saving. Recycling is another solution for lowering carbon fiber cost, and also makes carbon fiber’s lifecycle more environmentally friendly. However, most of the recycling methods currently available in the market would produce short fibers and cause fiber damage, thus decreasing the quality and values of recycled carbon fibers. Mr. Deniz Yesilyurt, research assistant at ITA, introduced a new method to reduce the fiber damage by optimizing surface treatment and sizing. He said in the Mr. Deniz conferences that this Yesilyurt method would make multiple recycling for continuous carbon fibers a possible solution. On the other hand, although carbon fibers help reduce weight and emissions, their production still emits a substantial amount of greenhouse gases as they mostly made from fossil-based PAN. Mr. Stefan Schonauer, another research assistant at ITA, said in the conferences that making acrylonitrile (ACN), the raw material of PAN, from bio-based glycerin is a promising solution. He said the glycerin used for making ACN is a waste in biodiesel production, which is significantly cheaper than crude oil. As a result, the glycerin route is both greener and more economic than the fossil routes. Jason Chen is an international correspondent for International Fiber Journal. He is a leading journalist covering the fiber industry in Asia and a senior analyst who has published more than 50 books and reports for polymers, composites, and other advanced materials and technologies. He can be reached at jasonchen200501@hotmail.com ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 31
FIBERS, FILAMENTS & PROCESSING SOLUTIONS
ifj.com
2024
YOUR RESOURCE FOR QUALITY SUPPLIERS
32 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
iStock/gyn9038
BUYER’S GUIDE
Chase Machine & Engineering Inc. 324 Washington Street West Warwick, RI 02893 Tel: 1-401-821-8879 • Fax: 1-401-823-5543 Email: guygil@chasemachine.com Website: www.chasemachine.com Contact Person: Guy Gil Founded in 1954, Chase Machine and Engineering designs and builds custom converting machinery for Film, Foil and WovenNonwoven Fabrics. We utilize 3-D modeling to design equipment such as Unwinds/Rewinds, Slitters and Laminators, Festooners, Blockers, and Spoolers/Traverse Winders, while integrating technologies such as Ultrasonics, Glue Dispensing, Impulse and RF welding as well as Thermal bonding. When you have a web converting project, contact CHASE! EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Automation Equipment I Cutting & Joining Equipment I Equipment to Manufacture Limited Single Use Products I Extrusion Equipment I Filtration Equipment I Pilot Lines I Ultrasonic Converting Systems
Davis-Standard 1 Extrusion Drive Pawcatuck, CT 06379 Tel: 1-860-650-4886 Email: ndenerley@davis-standard.com Website: www.davis-standard.com Contact Person: Nichole Denerley Davis-Standard is a global leader in the design, development and distribution of extrusion and converting technology. Our systems support manufacturing applications and customers in a wide variety of industries, including automotive, building & construction, consumer products, medical, and packaging. Davis-Standard is committed to engineering systems for you that are cost-effective, environmentally friendly, and offer a high return on investment. END USES: Absorbent Hygiene Agriculture l Building Construction – General l Building Construction – Insulation l Building Construction – Roofing l Disposables l Electronics l Home & Office Furnishings – Floor Covering l Home & Office Furnishings
– Furniture l Home & Office Furnishings – Miscellaneous l Medical or Surgical l Packaging l Pilot Lines l Plastic Machinery l Protective Disposable Apparel l Protective Durable Apparel l PPE l TransportationAirplane l Transportation – Automotive l Transportation – Marine l Web Forming Machinery, Complete Processing Lines l Wipes – Baby l Wipes – Industrial or Institutional l Wipes – Personal Care l Wipes – Specialty
Dilo Systems GmbH P.O. Box 1551 69405 Eberbach, Germany Tel: + 49 6271 940-0 Email: info@dilo.de Website: www.dilo.de DiloGroup supplies complete production lines for all nonwoven fabric technologies which employ staple fibre. A range of equipment is engineered for fibre opening/blending, recycling of textiles, web formation by carding or airlay, subsequent crosslapping and needle punching as determined by fabric characteristics and application. Potential fabric uses can either be disposable or durable ranging from geotextiles, automotive, filtration, synthetic leather and papermakers’ felts to cosmetic, medical and hygiene. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Filtration Equipment l Web Bonding Machinery l Web Forming Machinery, Complete Processing Lines l Web & High-Loft Forming Machinery Components
EDWARD C. GREGOR & ASSOCIATES, LLC 10432 Bethpage Drive Indian Land, SC 29707-5868 Tel: 1-803-431-7427 Email: ecg@egregor.com Website: www.egregor.com Contact Person: Edward C. Gregor Edward C. Gregor is a specialty technical consultant, who works with clients to bring new disruptive material technologies to market in fiber, technical textiles and nonwoven fabric markets and M & A activities.
EMTEC Electronic GmbH Gorkistr. 31 D-04347 Leipzig, Germany Tel: + 49 341 245 7090 Fax: + 49 341 245 7099 Email: info@emtec-electronic.de Website: www.emtec-electronic.com Emtec Electronic, located in Leipzig, Germany, develops and manufactures very specialized test devices for the pulp and paper, nonwoven and textile industries. Globally positioned in more than 80 countries, their TSA Tactile Sensation Analyzer in combination with the cloud-based Virtual Haptic Library is the game changer in objectivity, digitization and sustainability and can be used for process & product optimization, R&D, quality control and troubleshooting. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Lab/Testing Equipment
Fibre Extrusion Technology Limited Units F & G, Treefield Industrial Estate, Gelderd Road, Leeds, LS27 7JU, England Tel: + 44 (0)113 253 7676 Fax: + 44 (0)113 253 6006 Email: sales@fetuk.com Website: www.fetuk.com Contact Person: Richard Slack Fibre Extrusion Technology (FET) designs, develops and manufactures small scale extrusion equipment for technical textile material applications. Typical applications include melt and wet spinning of biomedical materials, sustainable polymers, functional materials and for a wide range of composites. The FET product range covers melt spinning systems for multifilament, monofilaments, non-woven structures and also wet spinning systems for filaments and fibres. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Extrusion Machinery Man-Made Fibers I Pilot Lines
SERVICE PROVIDERS: Consulting
ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 33
2024 BUYER’S GUIDE
Fi-Tech, Inc. 2400 Pari Way Midlothian, VA 23112 USA Tel: 1-804-794-9615 • Fax: 1-804-794-9514 Email: sales@fi-tech.com Website: www.fi-tech.com Contact: Jeffrey Bassett Fi-Tech is the leading manufacturer’s agent and distributor serving the synthetic fiber, nonwoven fabric and technical textile industries in N. America. Our extensive offering of complete lines, machinery, technical components and spare parts gives manufacturers a single source access to the leading global suppliers. Fi-Tech is responsible for sales, marketing, customer service and other duties for these component and machinery suppliers: AstenJohnson, Autefa Solutions, Baldwin, Benninger, Brückner Textile Technology, Cason, Corino, Enka Tecnica, Erbatech, Futura, Galan Textile Machinery, Guarneri, Hansa Mixer, Hastem, Heberlein, Idrosistem, Mario Crosta, Mayer & Cie, Mozart Bladws, Neuenhauser Ontec, ProJet, Reifenhauser Reicofil, Sauer Fibrevision, Saureressig Surfaces, Schill & Seilacher, Shelton Vision, Spoolex, Tecnorama, TEMCO, Testa, T.EN Zimmer, and Tokuden. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Accessory Equipment, Supplies l Chemicals l Extrusion Machinery l Finishing Equipment l Godet Rolls l Lab/Testing Equipment l Plastics Machinery l Separator Rolls l Web Bonding Machinery l Web Forming Machinery Complete Processing Lines l Web & High-Loft Forming Machinery Components
Frankl & Thomas 111 Smith Hines Road Suite A Greenville, SC 29607 Toll Free: 1-800-832-7746 Tel: 1-864-288-5050 • Fax: 1-864-234-7544 Email: info@frankl-thomas.com Website: www.frankl-thomas.com Contact Person: Robina Hogan Tel: 1-704-575-4333 Email: robina.hogan@frankl-thomas.com Contact Person: Michael Alexander Email: Mike.alexander@frankl-thomas.com “Frankl & Thomas, in business since 1946, is the premier North American representative
34 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
for Nippon Nozzle (Spinnerettes, Meltblown & Spunbond Dies, Spunlace Jet Strips & Filters, Spinnerette Inspection Equipment, Ultrasonic Cleaner and Pilot Meltblown line), Ramina Nonwoven Turnkey Production Lines, Sanyo Seiki Separator Rolls, Kluber Lubrication, Fourné Pilot Lines & Vacuum Pyrolysis Ovens, LUTZ® exactly Staple Cutter Blades and Chopping Blades, Reiners & Furst (Ring Spinning), Yamauchi Cots & Spinning Aprons, Strayfield Radio Frequency Dryers.” EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Fiber Pilot and Plant Spinning Equipment I Fiber Preparation Machinery and Parts I Meltblown Lines I Nippon Nozzle Spinnerettes, Dies and Nonwoven Equipment I Spinnerette Measuring Equipment I Ultrasonic Cleaning Equipment I Strayfield Radio Frequency Dryers I Web Forming Machinery, Complete Processing Lines
HYDAC Process Technology GmbH Am Wrangelflöz 1 D-66538 Neunkirchen, Germany Tel: + 49 (0) 6897-509-1241 Fax: + 49 (0) 6897-509-1278 Email: thomas.schorn@hydac.com Website: www.hydac.com Contact Person: Mr. Schorn HYDAC Process Technology GmbH as part of HYDAC group is your contact for fluid filtration in the production of polymers. Filter elements made out of Chemicron® are pleated as standard or tailor-made and have proven most effective in this field. Our filters are high performance quality products so we can ensure the function and the extension of the service life of components, systems and machines. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Filtration Equipment l Filtration-Liquid Nonfood l Polymer Filtration
Advancing Engineered Material Solutions
INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry 1100 Crescent Green, Suite 115 Cary, NC 27518 USA Tel: +1-919-459-3729 Email: jtessari@inda.org Website: www.inda.org Contact Person: Joe Tessari
INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, serves hundreds of member companies in the nonwovens/engineered fabrics industry to achieve business growth. Since 1968, INDA helps members convene and connect, innovate and develop their businesses. INDA’s educational courses, business intelligence and market insights, test methods, consultancy and issue advocacy help members succeed by providing information they need to better plan and execute their business strategies. INDA Media is the business-to-business publishing arm of INDA and publisher of International Fiber Journal and International Filtration News, which reach a vast network of professionals who employ fibers, filaments, and filtration systems to optimize their application environments. SERVICE PROVIDERS: Government Agencies, Associations
Live Oak Capital, LLC 10432 Bethpage Drive Indian Land, SC 29707-5868 Tel: 1-803-431-7427 Email: ecg@egregor.com Website: www.egregor.com Contact Person: Edward C. Gregor Specializing in mergers and acquisitions of technical textiles and the nonwoven fabrics industry having company sales of between $10 million and $1 billion. Focus is on family-owned businesses and smaller public companies. SERVICE PROVIDERS: Acquisitions
MEZGER, INC. 170 Metro Drive Spartanburg, SC 29303 USA Tel: 1-864-542-8037 Fax: 1-864-542-8039 Email: info@mezgerinc.com Website: www.mezgerinc.com Contact Person: Mark Mezger MEZGER INC. is a global distributor of equipment, testing instruments and accessories for the fiber and filament yarn extrusion processes. Such as online sensors, spinnerets, spin packs, screens, gaskets, ovens, inspection systems and much more. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Accessory Equipment, Supplies l Lab/Testing Equipment
Mid Atlantic Industrial Textiles Inc. 7854 Browning Road Pennsauken, NJ 08109 Toll-Free 1-855-793-0325 Tel: 1-609-261-4886 Fax: 1-609-261-6345 South Carolina Warehouse Tel: 1-864-436-1854 Email: reginal@yanpai.com Air and liquid Filtration media now. Filter press cloth, dust collector fabrics, woven and nonwoven, non-woven membrane laminated, and chemical finishes all direct from Yanpai parent plant, in stock in the USA. No stress and no aggravation dealing with China. Deal directly with the world’s largest manufacturer through N. America Yanpai office. High quality, good service, low prices. We stock what you need!
SAHM – Georg Sahm GmbH & Co., KG
RAW MATERIALS/MATERIALS/MATERIAL SUPPLIERS: Coatings l Filtration-Air l Filtration- Liquid Nonfood l Nonwoven Materials l Plastic-Formed Netting & Scrims l Woven Materials
EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Winding Technology
Sudetenlandstr.33 37269 Eschwege, Germany Tel: + 49 5651 804-0 Fax: + 49 5651 13620 Email: info@sahmwinder.com Website: www.sahmwinder.com Contact Person: Oliver Eichenberg SAHM is the worldwide technology leader for winders in the markets including high performance fibers, carbon fibers and slit film tapes for the converting industry. SAHM supports companies with winding solutions for a wide range of applications and materials and is always ready for new challenges. Sales and service will be supported by American Starlinger-Sahm, Inc. based in Fountain Inn, SC.
SCHWING Technologies
Onyx Specialty Papers, Inc. 40 Willow Street South Lee, MA 01260 Tel: 1-413-243-1231 Fax: 1-413-243-4602 Email: info@onyxpapers.com Website: www.onyxpapers.com Contact Person: Pamela Hayden Onyx Specialty Papers, Inc. is committed to the design, development and manufacture of synthetic and fiber based filter media that meets complex and demanding performance challenges. Through an extensive knowledge of materials and processes, our team of accomplished scientists and engineers collaborate with customers to devise creative solutions that meet both performance and end use attributes. RAW MATERIALS/MATERIALS/MATERIAL SUPPLIERS: Papers
300 Carnegie Center Drive #150 Princeton, NJ 08540 USA Tel: 1-609-786-2404 Email: info@schwing.tech Website: https://schwing.tech Contact Person: Sales Dept. SCHWING Technologies is a leading supplier of thermal cleaning equipment for the safe removal of polymer from spinnerets, filters, and extrusion tooling. SCHWING has over 50 years of experience cleaning spinnerets and tooling at its headquarters in Neukirchen-Vluyn, Germany – with North America office located in Princeton, New Jersey. Products include VacuClean, InnovaClean, CompactClean, and post-treatment solutions. Systems are energy efficient and environmentally friendly. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Accessory Equipment, Supplies
SOSSNA GMBH Fürst-Leopold-Allee 96 46284 Dorsten/Germany Tel. + 49 (0) 2362 993710 Email: sossna@sossna.de
Website: www.sossna.de Contact Person: Susanne Sossna SOSSNA GMBH – SOSSNA Spinnerets(R) - is one of worldwide leading manufacturer of spinnerets for all kinds of high pressure, stainless steel spinnerets for melt spinning, dry spinning and the production of non-woven. Spinnerets and spin packs according samples or drawings can be supplied, and - in addition professional service for the development of new spinnerets or optimization of existing spinnerets and spin pack design is provided. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Polymer Equipment, Materials, Services l Spinnerets, Spin Packs
Tentoma Packaging Solutions Smøl 1, DK-6310 Broager, Denmark Tel: + 45 79 30 62 10 Email: info@tentoma.com Website: www.tentoma.com Tentoma manufactures RoRo StretchPack® packaging solutions, which are particularly suitable for 6-sided packaging of large rolls and products. RoRo StretchPack® provides 100% waterproof sealed packaging, and packaging and sealing are done in one automated operation. This reduces energy consumption and film consumption by 25-60% compared to conventional ways of packaging. Tentoma installs packaging systems for customers worldwide. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Packagin
Zund America, Inc. 8142 South 6th Street, Oak Creek, WI 53154 Tel: 1-414-433-0700 Email: infous@zund.com Website: www.zund.com Zünd digital cutters, manufactured in Switzerland, are industry-leading cutting solutions for (tech-)textile, composites, foam, and many other industrial applications. Unmatched in versatility and modularity, Zünd systems are completely customizable, with specialized tooling and application-specific workflow automation. This includes efficient nesting options for maximum yield, marking/labeling devices, projection-assisted sorting & kitting, automated/ robotic loading/off-loading, IoT-based production monitoring and analysis, and so much more. EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY: Automation Equipment l Cutting & Joining Equipment ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 35
M&A INSIGHTS
To Tell the Truth Sell-Side M&A Versus Estate Planning
By Len LaPorta Managing Director of Investment Banking, Wiley Bros.-Aintree Capital, LLC
Len LaPorta is a managing director of Investment Banking at Wiley Bros.-Aintree Capital, LLC – a 75-year-old firm, located in Nashville, TN, focused on investment brokerage and underwriting municipal bonds for utility districts in the state of Tennessee. Len brings to the Firm experience in crossborder M&A transactions between USA and Europe, advises business owners on sell-side and buy-side transactions, capital advisory, and valuations. Len is a graduate of the U.S. Naval Academy with MBA from Boston College and a veteran of the U.S. Navy. He is also a member of INDA’s non-woven Technical Advisory Board. llaporta@wileybros.com or (615) 782-4107.
Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System (US), Industrial Production: Total Index [INDPRO], retrieved from FRED, Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis; https://fred.stlouisfed.org/series/ INDPRO, June 12, 2023.
36 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
We are constantly hearing that a family business owner is “going through an estate planning” initiative to understand their potential value. In many cases, the value created from a competitive M&A process is a better use of time. he professional industry supporting estate planning has a good reputation. It has a comprehensive network of knowledgeable advisors with strong academic backgrounds, subject matter expertise and it is an area that is heavily regulated. In a broad sense, these estate planning professionals include accounting, financial advisors, commercial bankers, real estate, community stewards, wealth planners and legal advisors. Please note, the author has great ties with members of these professional organizations. Let’s not forget the “non-professional” members supporting the business owner. This group includes the multi-generational extended family members. This mix includes current and former spouses,
T
uncles, aunts, in-laws, children and grandchildren of the owner. An evolving third element in the estate planning game involves the university and religious institutions that are extremely active courting the business owner. Also not to be forgotten are the private undergraduate and elementary schools looking for a charitable contribution when your grandchild graduates from third grade. • Do these various groups have an impact on how the value of the business is determined for estate planning purposes? You bet they do! • Do these various groups attempt to sway discussion on the value determination? Unfortunately, yes. • Do these various groups agree with the ultimate decision regarding valuation? No. Enter your experienced investment banker to lead a sell-side M&A process for the business owner. Creating a competitive M&A sell-side process will provide a value that the market is willing to pay for your business. I would like to review some actual advisory scenarios involving families:
Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System (US), U.S. Dollars to Euro Spot Exchange Rate [DEXUSEU], retrieved from FRED, Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis; https://fred.stlouisfed.org/series/DEXUSEU, June 12, 2023.
Case Study #1
Case Study #2
• At the passing of the parents, CEO is gifted additional shares to become 51% majority owner of family business. Two (2) siblings (not involved with the business) given 49%, in aggregate. • Siblings want to be “bought out.” • Three years later, with high professional expenses deployed and multiple estate valuations rejected, an agreement for a valuation is agreed upon with CEO now controlling 100%. • Six months later, the company is sold for 2x above the estate planning valuation. • Professional estate planning advisors followed the conventional conservative practice to generate the valuation. • Conversely, the M&A market spoke loud and clear that the company’s niche was more valuable in a competitive process.
• Founder passes and provides children (3) from first family 58% ownership, while his stepchildren (3) receive 42% of the family business. • Founder had established a 70% super majority vote requirement on all business initiatives. Since this threshold was established 35+ years ago, the 4 children/stepchildren have never had a vote pass due to the 70% threshold. • Professional estate planning advisors followed the wishes of the founder and saddled the next generations with a challenging burden at exit. • The investment bankers were highly confident the business market value of $200+ million would be attainable. Please consider all your options and tools when considering your estate planning initiatives. We would encourage you to ask your team of professional advisors to invite an investment banking team to speak with you and your family to further evaluate your options.
This article has been prepared solely for informational purpose. This article does not constitute an offer, or the solicitation of an offer, to buy or sell any securities or other financial product, to participate in any transaction or to provide any investment banking or other services, and should not be deemed to be a commitment or undertaking of any kind on the part of Wiley Bros. –Aintree Capital, LLC (“WBAC”) or any of its affiliates to underwrite, place or purchase securities or to provide any debt or equity financing or to participate in any transaction, or a recommendation to buy or sell any securities, to make any investment or to participate in any transaction or trading strategy. Any views presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of WBAC. While the information contained in this commentary is believed to be reliable, no representation or warranty, whether expressed or implied, is made by WBAC, and no liability or responsibility is accepted by WBAC or its affiliates as to the accuracy of the article. Prior to making any investment or participating in any transaction, you should consult, to the extent necessary, your own independent legal, tax, accounting, and other professional advisors to ensure that any transaction or investment is suitable for you in the light of your financial capacity and objectives. This article has not been prepared with a view toward public disclosure under applicable securities laws or otherwise.
ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 37
MOVERS & SHAKERS
Kelheim Fibres and Santoni Win the ITMF International Cooperation Award 2023
ITMF Award Ceremony From left to right: Mr. Ruizhe Sun, CNTAC President and former ITMF President; Patrick Silva Szatkowski, Santoni S.p.A., Betty Wu, Kelheim Fibres; Mr. Juan Parés, Textil Santanderina Spain, Jury Member and Vice President ITMF; Dr. Christian Schindler, ITMF Director General. ITMF
elheim Fibres GmbH, a leading manufacturer of specialty viscose fibers, and the Italian textile machinery manufacturer, Santoni Spa, were honored with the ITMF International Cooperation Award 2023 during the ITMF Annual Conference in Keqiao, China. This prestigious recognition by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) acknowledges outstanding achievements in international collaboration within the textile industry in alignment with the values of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. Together, Kelheim Fibres and Santoni have developed an innovative and sustainable period panty, built upon advanced machine technology and highperformance viscose fibers. The result is a sustainable and high-performance underwear garment that seamlessly combines comfort and functionality. Santoni’s specialized machinery enables a significant reduction in fabric waste, or even the potential for entirely waste-free production. Simultaneously, it enhances production efficiency, leading to cost savings. Kelheim Fibres’ woodbased specialty fibers, such as the trilobal Galaxy® and the hollow Bramante fiber, replace synthetic materials in the absorbent core of the menstrual underwear. They offer excellent performance and reliable protection for the wearer. www.kelheim-fibres.com
INDA’s Wes Fisher Named a 2023 Top Lobbyist NDA, The Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced that Director of Government Affairs Wes Fisher was named a 2023 Top Lobbyist by the National Institute for Lobbying & Ethics (NILE). The list includes professionals with significant legislative success in 2023, have been innovative in their field, are held in high regard by their peers, give back to their community through charity or pro bono work, and adhere to the highest ethical standards.
I
K
38 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
in 2021 and now we are continuing our journey. We are constantly looking for various ways to decrease the greenhouse gas emissions from our operations. In 2022 we also installed a solar panel plant with over 2200 solar panels to our Alicante site,” said Juan Carlos Esteve, Director, HSEQ. Reducing the environmental impact of operations ensures that the company can offer more sustainable products to their customers. By shifting to fossilfree electricity sources, Suominen can significantly reduce the carbon footprint of their products. As part of Suominen’s sustainability work, they are calculating the carbon footprint of their nonwovens as well as corporate level emissions annually. www.suominen.fi
Milliken & Company Named a Best Employer for Veterans iversified global manufacturer Milliken & Company was recognized as one of America’s Best Employers for Veterans 2023, a list compiled by Forbes and Statista. Milliken, included on the list for the first time this year, is one of seven manufacturers recognized.
D
Fisher joined the INDA staff in 2022, he previously held senior government affairs positions at the Pet Advocacy Network and the National Automatic Merchandising Association. His work at INDA has included interfacing with lawmakers, regulators, and stakeholders at the state, local, federal, and international levels and participating in UN negotiations regarding the ongoing Global Plastics Treaty. He serves on the board of directors of the Washington Area State Relations Group (WASRG) and in 2022 was appointed by the Governor of Virginia to the Virginia Rare Disease Council. www.inda.org
Suominen Goes Green in Brazil onwovens roll goods manufacturer Suominen with headquarters in Finland, continues its work in reducing its greenhouse gas emissions as its Paulínia, Breazil site is now shifting to fossil free electricity. “Suominen shifted entirely to fossil free electricity in all our European plants
N
“Our veterans come to work each day demonstrating their commitment to our values and to our people,” said Halsey Cook, president and CEO of Milliken & Company. “We’re proud of their contributions, and we’re grateful for the skills they bring to the table as part of Team Milliken.” The cohort of America’s Best Employers for Veterans 2023 all exemplify company cultures that are welcoming and supportive of veterans. Nearly 8,500 U.S. veterans, all of whom work at companies employing at least 1,000 people, were surveyed by Statista, and both their direct and indirect recommendations informed the rankings. www.milliken.com
Heberlein Completes Sale of its Business to New Owners wiss firm Heberlein, founded in 1835, has successfully completed the sale of its business on October 31, 2023. The new joint ownership comprises the company’s management, alongside industry expert Daniel Lippuner and th e Renai ssan c e inv e stm ent foundation. Starting in November, the company will operate under the name “Heberlein Technology AG.”
S
Heberlein management team.
The owners are committed to investing in the long-term success of a business that already combines traditional values with innovative power. The brand is known for its high level of expertise, as well as its tailor-made solutions for the textile business. As the world’s leading supplier of jets for synthetic yarns, Heberlein develops, produces and distributes key components for the manmade fiber industry. Around 80 employees and an efficient infrastructure in Wattwil, Switzerland, ensure that international customers can continue to rely on quality and reliability. The Renaissance investment foundation was established by pension funds, for pension funds, and has been investing in unlisted Swiss SMEs for over 20 years. Under the new ownership, Heberlein will continue unchanged at the current location in Wattwil with the current management and all current employees. The board of directors and management of Heberlein AG welcome this solution and are convinced that the existence of the company and its traditions will now be secured in the long term and that it will continue to develop successfully – positive news also for the business location of Toggenburg and the canton of St. Gallen. www.heberlein.com
INDA Releases New North American Nonwovens Industry Outlook Report NDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, has released a new report, North American Nonwovens Industry Outlook, 2022-2027. This report is the twelfth edition detailing demand data for 2017 through 2022, with forecasts to 2027, and is now available for purchase on the association’s website. The report provides analysis across all nonwoven end-use markets, providing a comprehensive and accurate view of the total North American nonwovens industry. INDA redesigned this report to support strategic business planning and decision-making. The projections in the report were made by analyzing current market trends and drivers to highlight the market potential in terms of dollar value, units, and volume in both square meters and tonnage. Tony Fragnito, INDA’s President, said, “This report provides insights on nonwoven demand in the short-life and long-life market segments. The intelligence included in this report is critical for business leaders who manage the assets or operational planning for their organization.” This report includes: • Economic and population drivers contributing to market growth over the next five years for markets in the U.S., Mexico, and Canada. • Disposable, Filtration, Wipes, Medical and Other applications. • Long-Life durable sectors for Transportation, Building and Construction, Furnishings, Geo and Agro Textiles, and Apparel. • Key drivers for the demand models and reasons for market upsets like the COVID pandemic. • A summary of historical and future trends that will affect the nonwovens market. www.inda.org
I
Suominen Appoints SVP, Americas homas Olsen, MBA, has been appointed senior vice president, Americas business area at Suominen. He will be a member of Suominen’s Executive Team and report to president and CEO Tommi Björnman. Olsen started in his new position on Nov. 1, 2023. “Thomas has a strong experience in leading sales in global organizations,” said CEO Björnman. “He also has industry knowledge and proven record in successfully executing company goals. I am sure he will be a valued member in our Executive Team and support us in our journey towards profitable growth.” www.suominen.fi
T
National Spinning Company to Close Whiteville Plant ational Spinning said it regrets to announce the closure of its North Carolina Whiteville Plant, its last yarn-spinning facility, during the first quarter of 2024. About 100 employees will be affected. In a filing with the N.C. Department of Commerce, Jim Booterbaugh, president and CEO, blamed declining business conditions over the past few years due to a shift by some customers to import yarns from China, Turkey and India. “In addition, the rise of import garments due to de minimis shipments for online shopping has deteriorated sales at retail stores, thereby impacting our domestic supply chains,” he said in the letter. www.natspin.com
N
ISSUE 6 2023 ifj.com 39
MOVERS & SHAKERS
AD SALES ADVERTISING | SALES
PUBLISHER Driven By Design LLC advertising@inda.media • +1 239.225.6137
Frank Strazzulla
UNITED STATES franks@tmsmedia.net • +1 949.459.1767
Sabine Dussey
GERMANY, FRANCE, AUSTRIA, SWITZERLAND, SCANDANAVIA, BENELUX sabine.dussey@dussey.de • +49 2129.348390
Joan Oakley
BUYER’S GUIDE & CLASSIFIED ADS joakley@inda.media • +1 248.347.3486
Ferruccio Silvera & Filippo Silvera ITALY & SPAIN info@silvera.it • +39 02.284.6716
Zhang Xiaohua
CHINA ifj_china@126.com • +86 13522898423 ADVERTISING COORDINATOR VICKIE SMEAD vsmead@inda.org • +1 919 459 3700 x 3720
Inquire Today for the 2024 Media Kit! Email advertising@inda.media
STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP
Hygienix Heads to Nashville in 2024 ygienix 2024 will take place at the Renaissance Nashville Hotel in Nashville, Tennessee, November 18-21, 2024. The event will feature three days of industry-focused presentations on disruptive innovations that are creating new categories and opportunities in the absorbent care and related industries. www.hygienix.org
H
Milliken Rebrands Healthcare Business as Ovik Health illiken, known as a U.S. specialty chemical company, is rebranding its healthcare business Milliken Healthcare Products to Ovik Health. “Launching Ovik Health marks a new era in our work to positively impact the healthcare industry,” said Halsey Cook, president and CEO of Milliken. “Through Ovik, we reaffirm our commitment to providing innovative healthcare solutions and open the door to future opportunities that can heal, protect and support patients.” The rebranding began on Oct. 31, with an expected completion date of Dec. 1, 2023.
M
Milliken Healthcare Products will transition to Ovik Health in all brand and visual instances; however, all current healthcare product names will remain the same, Milliken said. Ovik Health, as a subsidiary of Milliken, will carry forward Milliken’s portfolio of wound and burn dressings, compression solutions, cohesive bandages, and tapes. www.milliken.com
Indorama Ventures Achieves 100 Billion PET Bottles Recycling Milestone ndorama Ventures Public Company Limited, a global sustainable chemical company, announced that this fall it had recycled 100 billion post-consumer PET bottles since February 2011. This has diverted 2.1 million tons of waste from the environment and saved 2.9 million tons of carbon footprint from the product lifecycles. Demonstrating its commitment to support the establishment of a circular economy for PET, in the last ten years Indorama Ventures has spent more than $1 billion towards waste collection of used PET bottles. www.indoramaventures.com
I
SUBSCRIBE TO IFJ TODAY!
Tracking Fiber Trends & Innovation, Material Science, & Supply Chain Impacts You Need to Know
Get Your Complimentary Subscription at www.fiberjournal.com/subscription
ADVERTISER INDEX ADVERTISER
WEB
PAGE
Beijing Chonglee ....................................................ctamp.com.cn.....................................................................BC China Chemical Fibers Association........................cfa.com.cn............................................................................ 1 DM&E Corporation..................................................dmecutter.com…….......................................................... IFC Fi-Tech......................................................................fi-tech.com............................................................................ 4 IFJ Buyer’s Guide 2023...........................................fiberjournal.com/buyers-guide............................................ 3 Nova-Institut GmbH................................................Cellulose-fibres.eu............................................................... 5 Polytex.....................................................................polytex.cc..........................................................................IBC
40 IFJ ISSUE 6 2023
IFC = Inside Front Cover | IBC = Inside Back Cover | BC = Back Cover
POLYMERS
PET/PBT/PBAT/PBS/PTT/PLA/PETG/PC/PA6/PA66..
RECYCLING
POLYMER: Physics / Chemistry
GAS & COAL CHEMICAL
BDO/EG/MeOH/Heat recovery and comprehensive u�liza�on
HP
Hydrogen Peroxide, H2O2
R&D
EQUIPMENT
ENGINEERING
Own R&D Center and pilot plant
Project EPC Contrac�ng (Turn-key)
Manufacturing of Cri�cal Equipment
POLYTEX is a professional chemical engineering company and technology supplier integra�ng R&D, engineering, equipment manufacturing, procurement and EPC management services. From technology licensing, project planning, equipment manufacturing and engineering design, procurement and construc�on management, as well as start-up and opera�on services, Polytex provides diversified services and one-stop solu�ons to customers all over the world.
POLYTEX ENGINEERING GROUP Corp: 5th Floor, No.20 Wenchang Mid Rd. Yangzhou, Jiangsu, PRC. Head: No.1, Private Industrial Park, Yuetang, Yizheng, Jiangsu, PRC. Tel: +86-514-85553618; +86-514-87859276 Mail: market@polytex.cc; polytex@vip.sohu.com Website: www.polytex.cc
EPC CONTRACTOR
WWW.POLYTEX.CC
Nov 2023 Shanghai • China Visit POLYTEX at booth H6D27
TECHNICAL SERVICE 24/7 Technical Support & Service
EPLASTMER NEW MATERIAL CO., LTD
Bo�le grade, Tex�le grade, Film grade PET chips will be launched soon. Our own factory capacity in phase-1st will reach up to 1260 tons per day. China Sales: Mr Sun Mob: +86-133 1990 0139; Email: sg_sun@e-plastmer.com Mr Cao Mob: +86-181 5290 1436; Email: cao@e-plastmer.com Ms Pu Mob: +86-185 0992 5214; Email: pu@e-plastmer.com Russia and Central Asia Sales: Mr Li Mob: +86-189 5105 3772; Email: �ger@e-plastmer.com Mr Gao Mob: +86-138 5159 0251; Email: gaocx@e-plastmer.com Mr Dos Mob: +86-135 1991 0418; Email: dos@e-plastmer.com Other markets: Ms Emma Mob: +86-158 9939 1075; Email: emma@e-plastmer.com
Add: No.3 xingguang Forth Street OPOT-Mechatronics Industrial Park, Tongzhou Park of Post Code:101111 zhongguancun Science Park, Tongzhou, Beijing Fax:0086-10-65987455 Overseas Sales Dept: Tel:0086-10-65987926 65987925 E-mail:bizlee@126.com Website:http://www.ctamp.com.cn
