CHILL IN TAITUNG
Kombucha and Kung Fu on the Mountainside +
The Healing Power of Tea + Improvising a Life in Taitung +
Dulan: A Place Where You Can Find Peace
Kevin Brazier - Enjoys practicing martial arts in nature
CHILL IN TAITUNG
issuu - Hello Taitung
(All editions of the magazine are available online at issuu)
Kevin Brazier
Enan Wang
Viktor Schramek
Stella Grasso
Published by Taitung County Government
Publisher \ April Yao 饒慶鈴 Editor-in-Chief \ Jasper Tsao 曹劍秋 Managing Editor \ Steven Crook
Editorial Team \ Chloe Lo 羅淑琴 Jasmine Lin 林宛靚 Connie Wu
Project Manager \ Co-create Planning & Design Consultancy
Executive Editors \ Li-Chin Kuo 郭麗津 Chloe Wu
Finding Inner Peace Between Green Hills and Blue Ocean
As Taiwan’s most spacious county, Taitung is a splendid place for those who wish to loosen up and slow down. There are countless spots along the coast and in the verdant interior where an introspective individual in search of solitude can find peace and chill out.
By Steven Crook
writer, and consultant
As a frequent visitor to Taitung, I have my own cherished retreats. The seaside south of Nantian, very close to the border with Pingtung County, is one such haven. Along the Southern Cross-Island Highway — the high-altitude road that connects Taitung with the western half of Taiwan — there are several scenic points where I’ve turned off my motorcycle’s engine, gazed out at the surrounding mountains, and felt a refreshing emptiness. Hardly anyone lives on the inland-facing slopes of the Coastal Mountain Range, but the views are intoxicating. If you drive up Songlin Industry Road (Local Road No. 40) or Road No. 197 (part of which is unsurfaced, be warned), you’ll see what I mean.
For all four of this issue’s contributors, the ease with which a person can “Chill in Taitung” is a key reason why they’ve chosen to live here. But let’s make one thing clear: They’re not even close to being hermits. They all engage with local society in different ways and at different levels.
Kevin Brazier sells bread and kombucha to local residents, but they’re just as likely to meet him when he’s practicing martial arts beside Chishang’s Dapo Pond. When he’s not playing with local indigenous musicians, Viktor Schramek
Enjoying Guanshan's bike trail
performs to audiences all over Taiwan and beyond. For Enan Wang, tea is the medium through which he communicates his ideas with others, showing them how it can bring inner peace. When she’s not taking or developing photos, much of Stella Grasso’s time has been spent interacting with sailing-school students and tourists enjoying vegan food at her cafe.
“Chilling” means different things to different people. For many of us, it couldn’t be more straightforward. To kick back and unwind, all we need is a comfy sofa and a good book, or a few friends and something to drink. Others say that’s a recipe for slacking, and prefer structured activities. Each to their own…
The guest writers featured in this issue of Hello Taitung all have their favorite ways to relax. As Kevin explains in our cover story, in Chishang he’s found a setting in which he can refine and elevate his kung fu practice, a discipline he’s been following since the 1980s. He isn’t, of course, the first to comment on the wonderful tranquility of Taitung, where he falls asleep to a “nightly symphony of insects and frogs.”
Having turned his back on a high-pressure professional career in Berlin, Enan now values both the fact he need never wear formal clothes, and the proximity of the Pacific Ocean, the sight of which he and his wife find profoundly calming. As he continues his deep dive into the world of tea, he finds Taitung the perfect place to explore its restorative and recuperative powers.
Comparing Taitung’s power of attraction to that of a magnet, Viktor takes pleasure in a cup of locallygrown tea or cooking wild vegetables his Amis friends have taught him to recognize. Like every outsider who successfully settles far from where they grew up, he’s deeply sensitive to the cultures and traditions of his neighbors.
Describing the many outdoor activities she enjoys in Dulan, from sailing to surfing to running, Stella
asks if she could ever give up such exhilarating pleasures — and ponders if similarities between Taitung and her native Sicily are part of the reason why this part of the world enraptures her like no other.
Perhaps this is the first time you’ve picked up Hello Taitung and you’re wondering why, out of the 200,000-plus people who live in Taitung County, we’re shining our spotlight on these four expatriates. This magazine, which is supported by the Taitung County Government, exists to tell the stories of outsiders who’ve settled down in southeastern Taiwan. Whether they’re drawn by the region’s stunning natural environment, the friendliness of local people, the fascinating blend of cultures (seven indigenous tribes, as well as Han people of Hoklo, Hakka, and mainlander descent), or all of the above, such newcomers are bringing skills, creativity, and diversity to Taitung.
If you’re originally from elsewhere but you’ve chosen to make Taitung your long-term home, we’d love to hear from you. In fact, we value feedback of any kind. Whether you think we’re missing a trick, you’ve got a great idea for a future theme, or you just want to pay us a compliment, drop us a line or post a comment on the Hello Taitung Facebook page.
Absorbing
CHILL IN TAITUNG
In our eighth issue, we feature four contributors from four countries who’ve walked four very different paths. Kevin spent many years in Tainan focusing on martial arts and language study — and starting a family — before the call of the southeast became irresistible. Enan met his Taiwanese wife in his native Germany. When they moved back, his obsession with tea prompted island-wide wanderings that brought them to Taitung. Viktor’s first exposure to Taiwan came when the percussionist performed in Taipei. On his next visit, he explored much of the island. Third time around, he began in Taitung, where he’s been based ever since. Photographer Stella was already a fan of Taiwan, but she (and we) can thank Japan’s visa rules, which led to her taking a short but life-changing trip to Dulan. There’s no way to predict who’ll be bitten by the Taitung bug!
By By Kevin Brazier American
Icame to Taiwan in 1989, intending to study martial arts for one year. I lived in the kung fu school’s spare room and spent my days teaching English and learning Chinese. Immersing myself in the culture was a fresh learning experience every day. After my first year in Tainan, I asked myself: Why not just live here for a few more years?
I helped my kung fu teacher out by running clubs at National Cheng Kung University and a boys’ school. As I met more people, one thing that really stood out compared to back in the US was the Taiwanese entrepreneurial spirit, so after six years of teaching English and kung fu, it was time for a change. I was eager to express my personality and ideas through my own business.
The first was Aprilita Vegetarian Bakery. Since then, I’ve opened a pizzeria, another bakery, and a vegan burger kombucha bar. By summer 2005, however, I felt that life was getting too easy in Taiwan and I wanted my wife April and my kids Pierre and Yvonne (now 20 and 24) to experience living in America. I sold my pizzeria and we moved to Florida to open a kung fu school.
By 2015, we were missing our old life in Taiwan. I moved the family back and I was ready to start my next project, a vegan bakery called Hanji Pang. It soon hit the profitable sweet spot. Like Aprilita Bakery, it thrives to this day.
CHISHANG
Kevin practices kung fu
For my next business, I wanted to do something that wouldn’t require plastic packaging. I always felt it was a shame that glass bottles are often used just once and then tossed. I already liked to ferment and I loved the idea of natural probiotics, so fermenting tea into kombucha in a glass bottle seemed like a perfect fit for me. Besides, Taiwan arguably has the best tea in the world. I started my kombucha microbrewery, Magic Monkey Kombucha, because I wanted a glass bottle recycling solution that added value to both bottles and tea by fermenting it in glass. Magic Monkey presents tea to the public in a unique way.
Soon I had my own non-alcoholic kombucha bar and vegan burger joint. Offering a simple menu of burgers and kombucha, I bragged to everyone who walked in that I made everything by hand. Once I had my serving team up and running, I enjoyed my time at the bar, playing bossa nova guitar or sharing fun kung fu movements with kids and adults.
That was my life in Tainan. But I longed for free time on Taiwan’s east coast… By 2021, exploration was my personal mission. Stealing time to explore
Taitung, I stayed at backpacker hostels or temples, or slept in high mountains where the forests reminded me of the winters of my youth in rural New York. Once I camped at the seashore and watched the sun emerge from the sea.
By late 2023, my search had led me to an abandoned farmhouse on the side of a mountain above Chishang. It was the perfect spot for my new Magic Monkey Kombucha brewery. The previous occupant had grown plums and made plum wine. This part of the township is sparsely inhabited. Some of the folks who grew up here have stayed behind, but others moved to urban areas.
By November 2023, I’d closed my Tainan business and sadly said goodbye to my old customers. We were now officially people of Taitung. I signed the lease and moved my brewing equipment as fast as I could, eager to ferment tea with mountain spring water.
In my mind I told myself that I’d create the most delicious kombucha in the world. But I had labor to do first.
KevinandhiskombuchabrandMagicMonkeyKombucha
Practicing martial arts by Chishang’s rice fields
The damaged farmhouse and its neglected pipes needed a lot of work. After all, I’m surrounded by constant growth and I have to become one with the rhythms of the land. That rhythm includes meeting the neighbors. A local farmer gave me some plumbing tips and helped me reconnect my water tower. Then I spent nearly a month getting the farm’s pipes working again, checking the water lines for leaks.
Each night at bedtime, I ask myself why we didn’t move sooner. I love falling asleep to the nightly symphony of insects and frogs and waking to the melody of singing birds. The sunset calls of the ferocious muntjac frightened me at first. But morning walks revealed sight of this cute half-goat/ half-deer creature. I put the muntjac in my celestial creature category, next to unicorns and fireflies.
As soon as I hear the roosters crow, I’m out of bed, measuring the fermentation of the black tea. If I don’t need to bottle kombucha that morning, I go down the mountain and practice kung fu at Dapo Pond.
Kung fu leaves me gasping for breath and with a pounding heart, as if I’ve just run a 100-meters dash. As I return balance to my respiration — called “balancing water and fire” in kung fu parlance — the jumping flame of my consciousness becomes a steady unflickering light.
The quiet and soothing sounds of nature are conducive to this type of half-vigorous/halfmeditative kung fu. The sages of old did their mind and body exercises in quiet remote locations, and I’ve long sought the kind of environment where I could take myself to a deeper level of awareness. In Chishang, I’ve found such a place. As I train surrounded by nature, I feel as if I’m aging in reverse.
But that isn’t the only reason I like to go to Dapo Pond. As the first tourists appear, I think of the vegetable lady down the street. She gets produce grown by old-timers on their small plots, and right in front of her home she sells things you’ll never see in a supermarket. My neighbors and the local aunties are always proud to tell me that their crops are grown without pesticides. “You better make sure there are no baby grasshoppers or butterfly worms!” they tell me.
I then go back up to the farmhouse. If I have a case of kombucha to ship, I use a logistics firm. Then I get to baking, as I don’t want to lose my skills. When the bread is out of the oven, I post a picture on a LINE group. By the time I’ve driven down the mountain, the bread reservations are in and I just drop it off at people’s homes or businesses.
When I first came to Taiwan, my only thought was to study Chinese philosophy, literature, and the subtle aspects of martial arts. Thirty years later, I haven’t changed much. As I get to know the people of Chishang better and discover my favorite corners and alleys, my hope is to find my own little spot where I can recreate something like what I once had in Tainan: A relaxing kombucha bar where people can chill and chat, meet new friends, or work on their art. Within the next two years, I want a beacon of artistic light to shine forth from this cute country town!
KEVIN BRAZIER'S
TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Haiduan
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
Thóo-tē 生地
Located in the mountains east of Dapo Pond, Thóo-tē describes itself as “an organic symbiosis space,” providing light vegetarian meals, books, and mountain living. It also offers books and serves as an event venue. The owners say they wish everyone can experience another way of life, a way that coexists with nature.
Reservation required
+886-963263060
No. 7, Beixi, Dapo Village, Chishang Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Da-Full Dumpling 池上大佛水煎包
These pan-fried vegan buns are made with locally grown cabbage, while the spicy sauce is homemade from green chili peppers. Customers serve themselves and sort out their change while the boss focuses on frying. The business operates from five in the morning until the buns are sold out, typically around eight. Bring your own plastic bag!
5am till sold out
No. 114-1, Zhongshan Road, Chishang Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Bowen Stinky Tofu 博文臭豆腐
The family running this small air-conditioned shop has been selling stinky tofu for more than three decades. Before this shop, the grandpa sold stinky tofu from the back of his bike. The signature dish (the only option!) is fried to order and perfectly complemented by slightly sweet-and-sour pickled cabbage and a dab of spicy sauce.
10:00-18:00
+886-982800073
No. 58, Xinkaiyuan, Chishang Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Just Flow Cafe 順著流走
Just Flow Cafe is a cozy vegan and gluten-free spot famous for its delicious quiches and rice dishes, along with a variety of refined sugar-free drinks and desserts. They offer a different special main dish every month, ensuring there’s always something new and exciting for regular customers to try.
Reservation required
+886-965375995
No. 18, Zhongdong 2nd Rd., Chishang Township, Taitung County , Taiwan
By Enan Wang
I’m Enan, a German guy in his early forties. Prior to moving to Taiwan, I had a career in real estate. I moved to Berlin to study Real Estate Management, intending to give my career a boost and dive into big city life. During my studies, I lived in India and later South Korea for some time. I stayed in that field and specialized in real estate asset management.
The higher I climbed up the ladder and engaged in the rat race, the more I questioned the purpose of what I was doing. Getting up in the morning, cramming myself in the subway packed with grimlooking people, and then chewing through my day with meetings, phone calls, and a flood of emails just to push some numbers on a spreadsheet didn’t feel right to me. It actually felt very wrong. More and more.
I had everything but I felt empty on the inside.
I gradually perceived Berlin — the city I was once so drawn to — as a fast-paced but cold, hostile, and aggressive concrete jungle inhabited by hipsters and pretentious people. Of course that isn’t what it is: Every place on earth is equally good and bad, but one’s perception is the decisive element.
One day I got introduced to Taiwanese oolong tea through my wife Shao-Yun, a Taiwanese who relocated to Berlin in 2015. At that time we both felt lost and were seeking a viable path through life. We started to experiment with tea meditation and soon implemented it into our daily lives. I liked it. It created a pocket of silence before work and on the weekends in my otherwise so-chaotic world.
This went on for many more months, until at some point it just clicked. It became clear that being creative with tea is what we want to focus on. We transformed our living room into a tea room. I eventually quit my job and took a yearlong break to realign. I then started to make my own music and we invited people to tea gatherings.
After one year had passed a decision had to be made: find another job and stay in Germany, or move to Taiwan and walk our own path. We chose the latter, not so much through reasoning as following our hearts. Taiwan was the obvious choice since my wife is from here, and I’d already developed a deep interest in East Asian cultures through my visits to South Korea, Japan, China, India, Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, and of course Taiwan.
We left everything behind, pushed the reset button, and started all over in Taiwan in May 2021. At first, we lived with my wife’s family in Chiayi. We soon bought a motorbike and started to explore the island, searching for a place where we’d want to settle down. In just a few months, we put around 10,000 km on the clock, exploring as much as we could, from the mountains to the sea, across the countryside…
During this journey we also built our tea map of Taiwan. We sat down with countless farmers and tea makers, listening and learning from them. In this process it became obvious to us that most of Taiwan’s agriculture depends heavily on fertilizers and pesticides. The countless betelnut farms in Taiwan’s west were an eye-opener and a huge shock for me. So we set out to find the cleanest, purest, and richest tea — sustainably farmed — that can be grown on Taiwanese land.
Enan has an in-depth appreciation of tea
Around half a year later, during one of our motorbike trips across the island, we visited Taitung and immediately fell in love with it. The ocean, the clean air, the slow pace… all that felt so healing. We had just a few days to spend in the city when a vacant apartment by Liyu Mountain caught our eye. We called the landlord, took a look, liked it, and signed a lease on the morning of our departure back to Chiayi. Shortly after we relocated to our new place in Taitung. Finally we could settle down and fully focus on tea, meditation, and making music, photography and film.
Our tea room satotea became the center of our life. We started to welcome people to enjoy wild farmed tea in traditional gong fu style with us. (Wild farmed tea is grown with no agrochemicals at all, and with minimum human intervention.) We sit down, have a chat, and contemplate life. Meditation retreats have also become part of what we have to offer.
We also create lots of content through our international brand, satotea. This is more geared towards foreigners who might want to visit or even relocate to Taiwan / Taitung. Through satotea we introduce and document our life in Taitung, especially the breathtaking nature. We are active on Instagram and YouTube where our writing, photography and videos can be found.
Rationally our move to Taiwan doesn’t make sense to most people. But life isn’t all rational. Most of it can’t be planned for. So we decided to just follow our heart and contribute to a better world, a better society, and a better Taitung within our very limited means.
Our biggest motivation is to support local farmers who respect the land instead of exploiting it and grow tea with minimal human interference. That means no use of pesticides or chemical fertilizers, and no machine harvesting or pruning. Wild and natural farming means to take only as much as nature can restore without losing balance.
Being able to then share this tea with more people and raise awareness about the important topic of sustainable land use in Taiwan reminds us why we left our comfort zone in Germany. It reminds us why we bear the harsh climatic conditions along Taiwan’s east coast, the little black mosquitoes, and the countless noisy scooters that pass our house. But then there are those priceless moments, when we can sit down with people who are just as lost as we were when we left Germany. As we share a cup of tea with them in a safe and quiet space to rest their tired minds, a transformation takes place. They loosen up. We ease their pain. We provide relief for their body and soul.
Enan and his wife Shao-Yun on the beach
Enan follows locals into the mountains
This is the main reason why we are still here after three years. Other significant factors are the kindness and open-mindedness of the people and being surrounded by mountains and sea. Staring into the waves of the Pacific Ocean, just five minutes’ drive away, provides us with such deep relaxation. We also value having access to affordable and clean food from organic markets and small farmers. And lastly it’s such a bliss to not worry too much about how to dress or other social obligations city life brings along. I just get up, put on a T-shirt, shorts, flip flops and I’m good to start my day. This is Taitung! 中文摘要 Abstract
I’ve visited many countries all over the world and I lived in India and South Korea for some time. From a practical point of view, what stands out to me — especially for people who’re considering moving to Taiwan — are the super-smooth public services, including health care. Everyone is friendly and helpful. Things get done quickly, efficiently, and at low cost. That’s something I could only dream of in Germany, India, or South Korea.
Enan loves nature and animals
Meditating in front of the sea
ENAN WANG'S
TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Haiduan
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
FLOT LIFE 合流生活提案所
This young couple moved from Taipei to Taitung a few years ago. Like many others they were seeking a quieter life with less city and more nature. Just recently they decided to take it one step further and started their newest project: FLOT LIFE. The venue offers seasonal light meals, crafted drinks, and handmade desserts, all nourished by Taitung's natural environment. It also features locally curated products and promotes sustainable activities.
Reservation required
+886-955605271
No. 55, Donghe Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Taitung St. Mary’s Health Farm
Even though this location is a bit out of town, it convinces with a calm atmosphere, super friendly staff and clean buffet style lunch. Some of their ingredients are grown right on the spot in their own garden. We highly recommend a walk through the compound afterwards to say hello to the goats, chickens and flowers.
8:00-17:30 (Sun. off)
+886-89-381382
No. 110, Museum Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Jiafeng Motorcycle Repair Shop 佳峯機車行
The family-run business just recently relocated to this new address. They are super friendly and have a cute dog to play around with while waiting for your motorbike to get fixed. All work is high quality and very reasonably priced. On top of that they picked us up already twice when our motorbike broke down. They arrived in no time, threw the bike on the back of the truck and immediately solved our headache.
8:00-21:00 (Sun. off)
+886-89-330333
No. 867, Sec. 1, Zhonghua Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Fengli Canteen
The owners are a very cute and interesting couple that made the move from hectic Shanghai to Taitung to slow down and share their delicious cooking. Hands down the best dumplings in Taitung. Everything on the menu is prepared with love, good ingredients and served with a big smile that makes you want to stay and have a chat even after finishing your huge plate.
11:00-13:30 / 17:00-19:30 (Mon. & Tue. off)
+886-917004717
No. 71, Sec. 4, Zhonghua Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Photo by Mineshine 麥閒
Improvising a Life in Taitung
即興生活在台東
TAITUNG
My first taste of Taiwan was back in 2010, when I joined a cultural exchange visit to Taipei. It was a very short stay — less than a week — but I felt there was something really special about Taiwan. After I got back to Prague, where I was studying, I couldn’t stop thinking about the island. I was so curious, and I hoped to return to see what I could find there.
I didn’t have to wait very long. When I visited in 2012, I stayed for three months, traveling with a backpack and trying to see as much of Taiwan as possible. I enjoyed hanging out in the countryside and on tea farms, but it wasn’t enough to satisfy me. I knew I’d have to come back.
I grew up surrounded by music and performance. My grandparents, my parents, and my sister have all worked in the theater in Slovakia. I took piano lessons from the age of eight, switching to drumming when I was twelve. I learned to play all kinds of drums and percussion instruments. I’ve made experimental music using unusual objects, or by playing instruments like a guitar in an unusual way to create new sounds. However, by late 2015, I was tired of being a session musician and playing in clubs most evenings.
Because I was so fed up and thinking of quitting music and becoming an organic banana farmer in Taiwan, I decided to visit a friend living in Taimali in Taitung. I intended to stay for just one month, working at my friend’s hostel in return for free accommodation. My farming dream was impractical — I had no land and no money — until a local Paiwan lady gave me free use of a small piece of land. Her generous offer really impressed and touched me, so I grew bananas, leafy greens, eggplants, carrots, and radishes for about a year. I just did it for myself, I wasn’t trying to be commercially successful.
It wasn’t long before I was an active musician again. I ended up drumming with a local band called Kaying no Makerahay. They performed traditional Amis songs remade as psychedelic rock. I played with them all over Taiwan, getting to know a lot of people as a result.
At least 95 percent of the time when I’m playing music, I’m doing it with Taiwanese people. I feel I work in two different worlds. One is the improvisational/experimental field. The other is working with indigenous people, trying to support their folk-music traditions.
For two years, I taught part-time at a music center in Taitung City. Taiwanese education tends to be strict and doesn’t tolerate mistakes, whereas improv is all about making music while being allowed to make mistakes. I noticed that the kids who’ve been homeschooled or who attend alternative schools find improv much easier than those going to regular schools. These days I seldom teach music; I only take students who are really interested.
By Viktor Schramek
Slovak, 8 years in Taitung
Website
Photo by Ting-Yu Lin 林庭宇
I studied jazz which includes free jazz and improv, but those genres still have some rules you should follow. In my performances now, anything goes. No rules, no style, just a spontaneous conversation with other artists through music. Sometimes I know I’ll be working with dancers, but none of us know what’s going to happen. We start with a blank sheet of paper! Recently I’ve been working with an amazing violin player named Hsin-wei Chiang who not long ago moved back to Taiwan from New York.
Performing with indigenous artists is different. I play with folk musicians, and folk music is really about telling stories. Indigenous people are especially good at this, because music is how they used to pass on mythology and culture from generation to generation. So when I play drums alongside indigenous musicians, I try to support them so they can tell those precious stories.
During Covid-19, most public performances were canceled. This gave me some time to work on my other passion, Taiwanese tea, and build a website (www.vikoshancha.com) through which I introduce and sell my favorite teas.
I first got to know Asian teas when I was about 20 years old and working in a teahouse in Prague. During my 2010 visit, I bought some oolong as a souvenir. Drinking it when I got back to Europe was an almost transcendental experience. The smell and taste seemed so familiar. To me, they represented Taiwan. Tea was certainly a big reason for me to come back.
Selling tea online helped me survive the loss of income because I couldn’t perform live shows. It’s become my second job. The local tea industry is most active in the spring, while musicians tend to be very busy in summer, so there’s a balance. In my opinion, Red oolong from Luye is Taitung’s best tea.
I’ve considered moving to Taipei because there are more opportunities, but Taitung always pulls me back. It’s like a magnet! It’s really my home now. I find it hard to adjust to city life after living in the countryside. I used to live in the mountains. Now I’m quite near the ocean, in an oldish single-story house. Finding a suitable place to stay isn’t easy, however, as houses in popular areas tend to get snapped up by wealthy city folks, especially since the pandemic.
Performing in a natural environment with other musicians
Photo by Ting-Yu Lin 林庭宇
Taitung isn’t the right place for everyone. It may disappoint people who expect certain conveniences. You need your own transportation and you’ll have to cook for yourself. Of course, nature lovers adore it here.
If you move here, I recommend understanding the culture and history of the indigenous people, out of respect for their land and tribes. Knowing a few words in the local indigenous language is a small gesture that can have a big impact. Perhaps the best way to enter this society is through music. I feel it’s a great honor to play with Taitung’s indigenous musicians, and to have been accepted into many different bands and communities.
I’ve also learned a huge amount from them about foraging. Some wild vegetables are fibrous or bitter, but many so-called weeds are quite edible. I don’t have much time to collect wild vegetables these days, but sometimes I find wild bitter melons growing by the road. Some people boil this small orange gourd for a short time, as it’s a very cooling food in summertime. I like it raw, mixed with tofu. No seasoning is necessary, but not everyone likes the bitterness or texture.
Some people compare Taitung to Thailand, but I think there’s a key difference. Taitung isn’t as easy as Thailand, but once you get in, it can become a lifetime thing. You can choose a place, but also a place may choose you. Taitung is one of those places anybody can choose, but not everyone is chosen by it. Many people come for a summer, then leave because they don’t find something that gets them engaged in local society. But that’s the beauty of Taitung. I don’t think it’ll ever become like some places in Thailand. Here, you need to find a way to make a living, or be willing to make small sacrifices. Give it a try, but don’t force it.
中文摘要 Abstract
Victor loves Taiwanese tea
Victor enjoys his life in Taitung
VIKTOR SCHRAMEK'S TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
’Etolan Style Honest Food Market 都蘭國誠實菜市場
Taitung has amazing fruits and vegetables, but getting produce to market is a challenge for some farmers. This shop aims to bridge the gap between local growers and shoppers searching for ultra-fresh food. It runs on the “honesty box” principle: Prices are clearly marked, and there’s a box for customers to drop money into. Depending on the season, you may find bamboo, eggplants, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, as well as beans and leafy greens.
Mon. 9am till sold out
+886-89-531864
No. 224, 29 Neighborhood, Donghe Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Shifang Vegetarian Restaurant
This affordable eatery combines two popular culinary traditions: meat-free cuisine and “hot stir-fry” (rechao) cooking techniques. Best enjoyed by groups of three or more, because many of the dishes are quite substantial, Shifang offers “mock meat” imitations of chicken and fish alongside noodles, soups, and a few Thai and Japanese flavors.
11:00–14:00 / 17:30–20:30 (Tue. off)
+886-89-350560
No. 18, Ln. 50, Gengsheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Seven Quinoa Restaurant 七里坡紅藜養生料理
With a menu that satisfies both vegetarians and carnivores — among its specialties are cured ham hock and pigs’ trotters — this restaurant is named for a native cereal that Taitung’s indigenous Paiwan people call djulis. Rich in protein and fiber, it’s recently become a popular superfood; here it’s added to some rice and noodle dishes.
JIAO 角琉璃
11:00-14:00 / 17:00-20:00 (Wed. off)
+886-89-325777
No. 203, Zhongzheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Glass-bead jewelry has long been treasured by the Paiwan and Rukai indigenous people, both for its beauty and as a symbol of high social status. The Paiwan artisan behind JIAO both teaches this art and creates beautiful objects for sale. In Paiwan tradition, each pattern has a meaning, such as eternal love or honor.
Reservations required
+886-981031025
No. 7, Shun'an Rd., Taimali Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Dulan: A Place Where You Can Find Peace
By Stella Grasso
心靈平靜之所：都蘭
My life hasn’t been very linear. Since switching to “travel mode,” I’ve been an artist-in-residence, a volunteer, and a reporter for NGOs. I’ve learned new skills, but the one constant has been my photography. And among the many places I’ve been to, only one has pulled me back each time I felt lost: Dulan in Taitung.
Why? In 2016, while working in Japan, I had to do a visa run. The previous year I’d been to and loved Taiwan, so I emailed Federico about volunteering at Cape Café. He told me that if I didn’t mind camping by the ocean, I’d be welcome. As it sounded like an adventure, I booked two weeks in Taiwan.
So here I was, in Dulan, the small village between mountains and a deep blue ocean that now I can call home. I helped out at the bar, made friends, and learned to surf. I was hooked!
My time in Taiwan was about to end when a typhoon hit Taitung and my flight was cancelled. That unplanned extra time, surviving a natural disaster with people who soon felt like family, transformed it from a quick visit into an extremely meaningful journey, a milestone which had a huge impact on my life.
Once I got back to Japan, I remember looking down at my dirty sneakers and comparing them with other shoes on the Tokyo metro. Like my old shoes among those new, elegant, and polished ones, I suddenly felt that I didn’t fit in. I was a sea creature out of the water, a wild animal in an urban jungle, and I found myself in tears.
In 2017, I returned to Cape Café, staying for three months. I started putting down roots, exploring by bike or by hitchhiking, and taking photos.
Then, after stints in Nepal, Italy, and Hong Kong, Taiwan called me yet again. After five long years away, ten days in Taitung were enough to let me feel at home again. The unconditional hospitality of friends, the warm welcome of locals who recognised me, the ocean, the misty mountains… I realized how much I’d missed them all.
Italian
Nearly
DULAN
About to sail the ocean on a zest boat
At the end of June 2023, I started working as an instructor and photographer with Taitung Sailing School. Then, given the opportunity to rent a little hut by the ocean, I opened Green Tara, offering raw vegan desserts, coffee, and fermented drinks.
As a vegan, I’d always struggled to find places where I could satisfy my sweet tooth. So I created one! I wanted to offer what I’d been missing and share my lifestyle with a slice of cake. In everything I do, I try to minimize my impact on the environment. Green Tara was a chance for me to help others mindfully live in harmony with nature. I tried to make everything from scratch, using fresh seasonal fruits, local ingredients, and farmers’ goodies. There’s so much this blessed land has to offer! And in Taitung I found an amazing community of like-minded people who care about sustainability.
I faced various challenges including a typhoon. Despite the success of my products and support from the community, I recently decided to close that location, because it demands compromises I’m not willing to make anymore.
During those difficult times, I realized there’s another reason why I live here: I’m surrounded by people who genuinely care. Expats and locals coexist within a circle of solidarity which also works as a safety net. I feel so privileged to be part of it. Sailing is another experience I’m grateful for. Growing up beside the Mediterranean, it was an inaccessible elite sport. Now, thanks to Taitung Sailing School, it feels so natural to enjoy that dream.
In the meantime, I’ve been working on some photography projects which I’ll soon exhibit at The Other Woman Gallery as part of their artin-residency program. They let me stay in their Japanese-style hilltop house, immersed in forest with views over Dulan’s bay.
For me, photography is a visual conversation and also alchemy. Being an analog photographer means dealing with the chemical and physical printing process and experimenting with its multiple fascinating possibilities. I love being not only an artist but also an artisan. Lately, instead of using traditional chemicals, I’ve been experimenting with sustainable alternative processes, developing organic chemicals made from plants or food waste, and finding inspiration in photosynthesis.
Walking around Taitung with her camera
Vegan dessert made by Stella
Since I was a little girl, I’ve been very hyperactive, so it took me a while to adapt to the slow pace of Dulan. I’m an early bird and a night owl. After a long run at sunrise I take time for my coffee ritual and a healthy breakfast. In my free time, I like to go for shaved ice, cycle down to the sea and stare at Green Island, or collect driftwood. I love riding to Donghe to grab a steamed bun or to snorkel in my favorite coral bay.
Living in a small place means that everyone knows each other, and somehow Dulan has gathered an amazing bunch of people. I might hang out for live music and drinks, or join a jam or juggling session on the beach. Or just chill alone on my rooftop, look at the stars, and fall asleep to the sound of the waves.
I’m always challenging and reinventing myself. I’m often asked: Don’t you ever want to settle down? My answer, which used to be a firm negative, has recently evolved into: I’d love to find a base where I can keep my stuff, a place that I can happily leave and come back to. Might this be the place?
Sometimes I ask myself why, coming from an island in the Mediterranean, I keep returning to this island in the Pacific Ocean. And why Taitung? The more I learn about this place, its native tribes, and its being the cradle of Austronesian cultures, the more I feel connected to it. Could this spot, sandwiched between the ocean and the mountains, unconsciously remind me of my hometown in Sicily? Maybe the answer can be found in my own roots. As I learn about others’ history, I’m also discovering mine. Is here “home”? Well, it’s home today. Tomorrow? No idea! To quote Basho, “Every day is a journey, and the journey itself is home.” 中文摘要 Abstract
Cycling around her favorite Dulan cliffs
Teaching sailing With Taitung Sailing School
STELLA GRASSO'S
TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Haiduan
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
Donghe Douhua 東河豆花
A perfect pitstop if you’re passing through the area or simply need something sweet and refreshingly cool, this shop’s yummy offerings include douhua (tofu pudding), shaved ice, and ice cream. The ingredients are fresh and delicious, prepared on the spot, and served with care and a friendly smile.
10:00-17:30 (Tue. off)
+886-89-531400
No. 38-1, Xingchang Village, Donghe Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Highway 11 台11
Whether you’re an expat living in Taitung, a Taiwanese local, or a tourist passing through, don’t miss Brian’s bar, where you can listen to talented live musicians while sipping craft beer, homemade mead, or a personalized cocktail. This cozy place has additional space outdoors, where winter evenings often feature a bonfire. Buy a drink and they’ll give you a marshmallow to roast!
Thu.- Fri. 19:00-23:00 / Sat. 12:00-00:00
+886-978092087
No. 61, Dulan Village, Donghe Township, Taitung County , Taiwan
Kamod Bay 加母子灣
A beautiful hidden spot just off the highway between Dulan and Taitung, Kamod Bay’s pebble beach and clear calm water are ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Beneath the surface, there are corals and colorful fish. The bay is also a stunning place to chill at sunset, when the purple sky mirrors the ocean’s surface, creating photogenic scenes.
Donghe Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Taitung Sailing School 台東帆船學校
The dream-come-true of an Argentine-Spanish sailor, the school has transformed local watersports culture and opened Taiwan’s southeast coast to the endless possibilities of the Pacific Ocean. Federico and his team offer lessons for all ages and levels on a lake and, for more advanced sailors, on the open sea. Seasonal camps include river tracing, kayaking, climbing, snorkeling, and art and craft workshops connected with local indigenous culture.
Reservations required
+886-928798484
Flowing Lake, Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Authentic Taitung Travel Experiences
A few years ago, international travelers exploring Taitung often described the county as highly rewarding, yet not the easiest place to navigate. Compared to Taiwan’s big cities, fewer people speak English, and most tourism businesses are geared to the needs of domestic sightseers.
That’s fast changing, however. Thanks to the efforts of the Taitung County Government and expert advisors, several local businesses are now able to provide in-depth experiences to visitors from afar. And in this issue of Hello Taitung, we’re delighted to introduce some of them.
Juhu Ecological Park
If the great outdoors is calling to you, Juhu Ecological Park might be the right place to spend a day or a night. An expanse of forest with top-notch food and accommodation, the park has one of Taiwan’s most exciting ziplines, plus other facilities that’ll give you hair-raising yet entirely safe thrills.
Wild Veggie Queen
To open a door into the culture of the Pinuyumayan indigenous people, book a morning or afternoon interactive tour of the Palang Mountain Site. In addition to learning something of the tribe’s history and rituals, you’ll see firsthand how the area’s unspoiled environment serves as a bountiful larder, providing a range of nutritious wild vegetables.
Kaiana Workshop 蓋亞那工作坊
Anyone fascinated by the foodways of yesteryear might also like to sign up for one of Kaiana Workshop’s Bunun pickled mustard making sessions. At the end, you’ll sit down to a meal featuring Bunun delicacies including smoked pork and millet.
Tuban Community 土坂部落
Hani Art Studio 哈匿藝術工作室
For the artistically inclined, learning how to make a traditional Amis two-handled ceramic vessel with master potter Hani Caki is both a satisfying creative experience and a solution to that perennial travel problem: How do you find a truly unique and memorable souvenir?
Tuban Community is the venue of the Paiwan tribe’s famous Maljeveq Festival. There won’t be another of these exhilarating get-togethers until 2028, but between now and then a local social enterprise is encouraging outsiders to get to know the village through a tour that includes a woodcarving studio, a chieftain’s home, the Catholic church, and a site devoted to the cultivation of edible plants. For an extra fee, visitors can enjoy a scrumptious meal with a choice of proteins. If you’re a gonzo gourmand, go for the snail pizza!
Start Your Taitung Journey
Bilingual Websites
Hello Taitung
Facebook page managed by the International Development & Planning Department of the Taitung County Government.
News, upcoming events, stores offering bilingual services, in-depth bilingual experiences, international reception teams
Taitung Travel Website
Official website managed by the Tourism Department of the Taitung County Government.
Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation
Taitung Taidong 台東 , Taiwan Group
Facebook group for people who live or have lived in Taitung, Taiwan.
News, upcoming events, and other information
Discover Taitung
Travel & Transport Apps
Taitung Travel App
Official app managed by the Tourism Department of the Taitung County Government.
Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation
Official website managed by the International Development & Planning Department of the Taitung County Government.
Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation
Taiwan Bus Tracker 臺灣等公車
Android
Android iOS iOS
Numbers
The Taitung County Government has collaborated with Crossroads （社團法人台灣 全球連結發展協會） to launch TTNomads - a platform to attract digital nomads and travelers, connect them with local businesses, and boost economic development in Taitung County.
Local stakeholders wanting to connect with new customers, or anybody wishing to meet new friends in Taitung of all nationalities and walks of life are welcome to join TTNomads. Click on the URL or scan the QR codes below to visit the platform and register a free account.
If you are a foreigner living in Taitung and interested in sharing your experience and encouraging others to think about making Taitung their home or long-stay holiday destination, please e-mail us at cocreate.taitung@gmail.com .
The definitive guide to life in Taitung
ISSN 2789-2174
