first visited Taitung in early 1992, when a friend managed to book seats on the South Link Line, the railway that connects Taitung with southwestern Taiwan. The line had opened to the public just a few weeks earlier and tickets were in great demand.
The train was packed with sightseers and Taitung residents taking advantage of a quicker way to get back to their hometowns, but the journey was thrilling. Every minute or two, the train emerged from one tunnel, rumbled across an uninhabited valley, then entered another tunnel. We glimpsed waterfalls and pristine boulder-filled creeks before the Pacific Ocean came into view. Disembarking at Zhiben, we settled into a hot-spring hotel for a couple of days of R&R.
Since then, I’ve been back to Taitung at least once every year. Last October, I was invited to join a three-day tour of the county organized by Cocreate Planning & Design, the executive editorial team of this magazine. Arranged to showcase local travel experiences that the county office and Co-create have helped develop and refine, it was one of the most enjoyable and meaningful media junkets I’ve ever attended. It was also an introduction to the Co-create team, who later invited me to become Hello Taitung’s editor
That might sound like an important position, but in reality most of the hard work is done by my colleagues. So I’ll begin by thanking them for their efforts, which include approaching potential writers and
interviewees, sourcing photographs, and ensuring that every page is attractive and eye-catching.
I also have to express my gratitude to Simon Foster, who occupied the editor’s chair until the end of last year. Simon, whose reputation precedes him in the small world of Taiwan-based travel writers, did an excellent job. Thanks to him and the rest of the Co-create team, taking over has been as straightforward as putting on a pair of gloves.
This issue’s theme is “Dwell in Taitung,” but none of our guest writers describe a quiet contemplative existence far from the conveniences and distractions of a big city. When reading the articles written by Louis, Gloria, Jacob, and Kari, I was struck by just how busy they keep themselves. The truth is that life in Taitung can be just as laidback — or as lively — as you want it to be. A slogan for the county could be: “Living life at your own speed.”
Between them, this issue’s contributors have taken on quite a range of challenges. Saying he finds life in Taitung especially conducive to personal evolution, Louis is what you might call a “polyartist.” Not content with making a splash in the world of psychedelic music, he also paints, and recently he branched out into tattooing. With her partner, Gloria runs not one business but two. Jacob and his wife fill their days sharing their faith and raising their boys, and Jacob still finds time to enjoy his hobby of geocaching. In between guiding tour groups, Kari has overseen the conversion of a
rural house into a thriving B&B. It’s obvious that Taitung offers inspired individuals both the time and the space to pursue multiple interests.
Hello Taitung exists to profile some of the many outsiders who’ve settled down in Taitung County, drawn by its healthy natural environment, its diverse and friendly population, and the sense of laidback optimism that seems to flavor every moment. It’s worth pointing out that all four of those featured in this issue began their Taiwan adventure in another corner of the island. Only one has a significant other with any kind of family connection to Taitung. A decade ago, none of them imagined they’d be here. But unintentional migrants often become the most committed. I should know, I’m one: I came to Taiwan, planning to stay 6 to 12 months, 32 years ago.
In future issues of Hello Taitung (all editions of the magazine are available online at Issuu) we’ll be meeting more personalities like Louis, Gloria, Jacob, and Kari: People from distant lands who’ve no doubt that Taitung is where they want to be.
Life-work balance, Taitung style!
Experiencing indigenous culture firsthand
DWELL IN TAITUNG
There are people in other parts of Taiwan who’ve not had the good fortune to spend time in Taitung, I’m told, and some of them still believe it’s a county of farmers and retirees. If they read this edition of Hello Taitung, I’m sure they’ll be inspired to visit. They should also realize they had the wrong idea all along. Enlarging on the theme “Dwell in Taitung,” French artist Louis Ossiere, Swiss tourism entrepreneur Kari Batik, Canadian missionary Jacob President, and Hong Kong-born SUP tour leader/ food vendor Gloria Wu describe lifestyles that are very different from one another. Yet all four of these “newcomers” find what they do to be deeply satisfying — proof, if it were needed, that once you set your heart on a place, with energy and initiative you can carve out a meaningful niche for yourself.
Finding space for self-expression
By Louis Ossiere (aka Shwamp)
French
7 years in Taiwan
Musician, multimedia artist, and tattoo artist
CHISHANG
For a longtime, Taiwan was just a name that existed in my mind, and it wasn’t until my twenties that I discovered this unique place. I first moved to Taipei with my partner, Annik, a girl from Kinmen I’d met in Australia when I was 19 years old.
I was fascinated by the effervescence of Taipei, but the crowds and pollution rapidly took a toll on my mental and physical health, which were a bit unstable at the time. I needed to explore the island, breathe fresh air, and seek a slower lifestyle. Annik and I decided to make our way down the east coast, hoping to find a quieter place where we could be close to nature.
Around the same time, I released my first electronic music album under the name Shwamp. That album has a special place in my heart, and it was well received by the international psychedelic music community. But that wasn’t enough to pay the bills, so in the lovely town of Chishang, Taitung, we decided to open a restaurant that we named Wu Lou Pie Pie.
The beauty of the East Rift Valley is striking, and Chishang is a good place to evolve as an artist. Inspired by the local people and the scenery to embrace a laidback lifestyle, I’ve continued creating music using sounds I’ve recorded in abandoned buildings and wild places, while painting and drawing with different mediums, including wallpainting and digital illustrations. I’ve always been a creative person and I enjoy using everything I have at my disposal to make art. Soon, I realized I wanted to make art for a living.
The restaurant was quite popular among locals and tourists, selling vegetarian food and handicraft products. Running it was an opportunity for me to practice my Mandarin, as for some time I seemed to be the only non-Asian foreigner in town. But I grew tired of overworking and realized I needed to free myself from the constraints of running a business full time, and dedicate my time to exploring art. I felt selfish and cowardly, abandoning the ship like that, but deep down I knew it was necessary. Annik, my partner, is resilient and courageous. She has kept the restaurant afloat, while I sailed off to chase my dream.
Chishang then became my home base. I’ve spent a lot of time traveling from place to place, performing music or doing livepainting gigs, in clubs or during outdoor events. I’ve met different people and discovered new opportunities, making new friends and improving my communication skills.
The people of Taiwan, especially those in Taitung, are welcoming and friendly. Coming from a country where the mentality leans toward negativity and mistrust, I’m deeply grateful for the sense of safety and mutual respect, although I sometimes get frustrated when feelings are left unspoken, or when culture restrains communication. Perhaps Confucian philosophy puts excessive constraints on creativity and independent thinking...
But losing my wallet or phone on a train and getting it back is amazing. I feel people here have more respect for each other’s boundaries and belongings than they do in France.
Taitung has countless creeks, rivers, waterfalls, caves, bays, and jungles. The diversity of natural places is astonishing, and the best part is that a lot of them remain wild and relatively untouched. I often camp overnight and explore the wilderness. It’s no wonder so many artists choose these natural landscapes as their subject matter. The
atmosphere and the deep shades of blue-green that cover these majestic mountains never disappoint. I often go there to quiet my mind and refresh my body in crystalline river water.
In early 2022, I began my journey as a tattoo artist. Money was scarce, but the idea of going back to being an employee facing a rigid schedule and hierarchy repulsed me. Independence is so important to me. So I bought the necessary equipment and began learning how to tattoo, using internet resources and the advice of tattooist friends. My work mainly uses black ink, with a focus on abstraction, flowing lines and gradients, rounded and organic shapes. Drawing and painting has always felt natural, but to mark someone’s skin for life adds meaning to my craft, as well as financial stability. To be entrusted in this way is both humbling and empowering. It also requires patience and self confidence, qualities which my life lacked for many years.
Painting in the yard
Playing music (photo by Ou Ting Hua)
Chasing opportunities in Chishang or elsewhere in Taiwan has led to an ever-growing tiredness. Because I feel I lack solid ground to stand on, I wish to settle down more and build a functional studio that would allow for better productivity and comfort when I create. I also envision a space where I can exhibit artwork and installations, host events, and draw people into my world in a compelling and intriguing way. But I’m still looking for the right place.
Northern and western Taiwan have far bigger populations, so those regions might seem to offer artists a better chance to thrive. However, Taitung’s local government and the local community are certainly helping creative endeavors. They’ve opened their minds to new forms of expression, and Taitung is slowly developing into a young and culturally diverse place.
I’m currently working on my sixth electronic music album and a few collaborations with other musicians. I love having several projects ongoing at the same time, so I can go back and forth
between them. It allows me to feel refreshed and not get stuck. In October 2024, I’ll join a tour to the United States. That’ll be the first time for me to go to the American continent and perform at big festivals. Hopefully I’ll gain a lot of inspiration from that trip and bring it back to Taiwan.
Being far away from my French family and roots is tough. But for the time being, I’ll continue investing time and energy to project my vision. I hope Taitung and Taiwan can prosper and grow even more diverse while preserving their wilderness.
There’s so much I want to express, and I’ve mostly relied on myself to do so. As a perfectionist and an autodidact, it’s sometimes difficult to accept help and to collaborate. But as I slowly open up to the world and accept the imperfections of life, I’m willing to work with others, and Taitung seems like a great place to do so.
I’m still looking for the right people to work with, as being an artist in 2024 requires a lot of different skills, including how to promote oneself, how to apply for funding, and how to develop a social media presence. All of these things are difficult for me, so don’t hesitate to reach out if you’re interested in my work and feel a special connection to it!
Tattooing for client
Louis and his creation (photo by Sabrina Shen)
TIPS FROM EDITOR STEVEN
If you arrive in Chishang by train, you’ll be near eateries and bicycle-rental businesses. Biking is an excellent way to explore the township’s main attractions, such as Dapo Lake and the sublime rice-field scenery around Mr. Brown Avenue.
LOUIS OSSIERE'S TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Haiduan
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
ShanAo Cafe Bar
山凹。咖啡 | 精釀啤酒 | 小食 | 藝文展演空間
Located not far from the train station in Chishang, ShanAo was created in the remains of an old house that burned down years ago. The boss, Mr. Peng, is an artist who is well known for his wood sculptures and natural dyes. Accompanied by his partner, Flower, who prepares creative cocktails and snacks, they always show great hospitality. Inside, you can enjoy art displays and meet interesting people.
Wed. - Sun. 14:00 - 22:00
+886 - 919598046
No. 86, Zhongxi 3rd Rd., Chishang Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Foyuan Chan Temple
This Buddhist monastery overlooks the town of Guanshan from the mountains. The monks and nuns who live here are like a family, and they welcome people who want to retreat and meditate in return for a small donation. I once spent three days there, enjoying a peaceful getaway from city life.
+886 - 89 - 811945
35G4+W8 Haiduan Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Moonlight Inn / The Other Woman Gallery
月光小棧 / 女妖在說畫藝廊暨咖啡屋
Picture a place in the mountains, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, that has a beautiful wooden house (which you can visit) and a charming garden, all decorated in great taste. Moonlight Inn is a café, a handicraft shop, and an art gallery. They sometimes host music and/or dance performances. A lovely getaway place to chill!
11:00 - 17:00 (Wed. & Sun. off)
+886 - 89 - 530012
No.20, 46th Neighborhood, Donghe Township,Taitung County, Taiwan
Taitung Art Museum
臺東美術館
Taitung’s art museum is on a small esplanade right on the outskirts of the city. The exhibitions here are often varied and interesting, and the size of the place ensures you won’t feel overwhelmed. The museum occasionally hosts music events. There’s no admission fee and the surrounding parkland is a good spot for a walk or a picnic.
9:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 17:00 (Mon. off)
+886 - 89 - 341148
No. 350, Zhejiang Rd, Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
A life focused on sharing
志在分享的生活
By Jacob President
Canadian
9 years in Taiwan, 3 years in Taitung Self-supported Christian missionary
TAITUNG
I’m a 37-year-old Canadian residing in Taitung with my American wife, Amber, and our two children, aged four and one. We serve as Christian missionaries in this beautiful region, a commitment that has enriched our lives immeasurably.
My journey to Taiwan began in 2015, when I had an opportunity to attend a nine-month Bible school with YWAM (Youth With A Mission) in Taipei. This program, which involved reading the entire Bible five times through inductive study and delving into its history, was also where I met Amber. Following the completion of the program, we decided to make Taiwan our home, dedicating ourselves to teaching the Bible to others and making God known. After six years in Taipei, we transitioned to Taitung.
Our introduction to Taitung came through various volunteering opportunities, including typhoon relief efforts. We immediately noticed a stark
contrast between the busy streets of Taipei and the breathtaking landscapes of Taitung. Unlike Taipei’s narrow roads and pollution — and the constant noise of city life that makes establishing deeper connections challenging — Taitung was a peace-filled escape. Its clean air, crystal waters, quietness, and the ease of forming meaningful relationships in its relaxed environment drew us in. Taitung isn’t only a haven for those seeking peace. It’s a vibrant place with frequent events, festivals, and outdoor activities that cater to all interests. Year-round, there are plenty of options for those seeking a busier atmosphere.
We also had a one-year-old son at the time, and Taipei felt less family friendly than Taitung, which has big parks, lakes, and plenty of activities where we could grow our family.
These were just a few of the reasons we were drawn to Taitung — but even if they were all of the reasons, that’d be more than enough. I could go on about benefits like the artistic culture, less pressure at school, beaches, and beautiful landmarks. This is a place that draws you in and gives you a sense of joy and wholeness, but isn’t cut off from the rest of the world.
We’ve now lived in Taitung for three years. Some things have changed in that time, but one thing that remains strong is how solid the community culture is. It seems like everywhere I see people that I know and who treat our family as if we’re part of theirs. We often journey up to rivers and waterfalls in the summer, and meet people who offer us food, beer, and betel nut. We’re happy to spend time with them and eat, chat, and swim — although we’ve not been up to trying betel nut yet!
We will sometimes bring a BBQ and meat to cook and share with others, because… well, that’s just what you do here. You share life with the people you meet along the path, in the park, at the store, by the waterfall, or at the beach. That’s what life in Taitung is all about.
Hezekiah (Jacob's son) is learning how to cut rice
With that being said, since we’re Christian missionaries here, it’s such a privilege to be in this culture because while people share their lives with us, we can also share our life with them which is all about Jesus. We want others to know that God loves them, so being in a community culture — rather than a place where people are more individualistic — makes it very natural and easy to convey this.
Part of our life here is to serve others the best way we can, so our typical week looks a bit different compared to the average working person, or foreigners who teach English or follow another career.
During the weekdays, my wife spends the majority of her time with our two boys at parks or teaching them at home, and in that time getting to know people she meets along the way. She also leads a weekly women’s English-language Bible study group that she prepares for on weekday nights.
My weekdays are a mix of self-motivated things. For part of the week, I study Chinese to communicate better and connect with people. I often ask people if I can pray for them, which I hope will open the door to them seeing God’s love.
Each week we also try to serve people by having a big community meal at our home where we provide all the food, usually from a different culture each time. We chat in English and Chinese, and then look at some scripture together and talk as a group, sometimes about the Bible, sometimes about what we’re thankful for recently and what each of us needs. Then we just try to be good friends to those who come by, helping and praying for one another and staying connected. If someone is interested in knowing more about Jesus, we try to be available to answer their questions while listening to them and caring for their needs.
Planning and preparing for this weekly community night takes up some of our time. As other needs in Taitung come up, we do our best to help and volunteer in whatever way we can. Whether it’s a special needs sports event, teaching English at local schools, running English-language day camps, or just helping with a building project, we try to help wherever the need is and be a blessing to Taitung.
At forest park, renting bikes to ride down the trails
Christmas community night
Friends from YWAM praying for us
Another big difference between our lives and others’ is that we don’t receive salaries. Our financial situation varies from month to month. Instead of earning a salary, we trust that God will provide for all of our needs. This unknown is challenging, but also a blessing to be able to see how He takes care of us so that we can help others. This lifestyle removes the pressure of trying to constantly make more money, as that’s not our goal. This makes life in Taitung a lot more meaningful, because our relationships are more important and Taitung is a wonderful place for connecting with people.
When we’re not busy, I’m making art, building something, making candles, or doing some photography for fun. We use these additional activities as a way to supplement our finances and also just to have a bit of fun. During weekends or holidays, we like to explore outside. We love to find new places and ride our bikes around town.
One activity I love doing with friends or with my oldest son is geocaching. Think of Pokémon Go, but instead of going somewhere to find a virtual Pokémon, there are hundreds of locations around Taitung and elsewhere in Taiwan where you can find hidden containers that you sign your name on and then put back for the next person to find. You use the geocaching app to log your find and take a picture; the app tells you an approximate location and gives hints where the treasure is hidden. It’s a fun way to explore new places and do something with family or friends.
As for the future, we intend to stay in Taitung as long as God continues to open doors for us and we’re preparing to plant a bilingual house church. Life here is rich and there are always new things to learn and experience.
String art lion
TIPS FROM EDITOR STEVEN
Various bus routes set out from Taitung Bus Station, a stone’s throw from TTwilight Bazaar in the heart of the city. Many services also stop at Taitung Railway Station. To get to Zhiben Hot Spring, you can take route 8129.
JACOB PRESIDENT'S TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Haiduan
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
Taitung Forest Park 臺東森林公園
There’s a lot more to Taitung Forest Park than trees. This 280-hectare patch of nature, conveniently close to downtown Taitung, includes estuary and coastal wetlands, grassland, and three lakes where you can watch birds. It’s a peaceful oasis with well-maintained trails through lush woodland that’s teeming with wildlife. It’s perfect for a leisurely walk, a bike ride, or a picnic. A refreshing escape where you can truly breathe and unwind!
7:30 - 17:30
+886 - 89 - 362025
No. 300, Huatai Rd, Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Mahimahi Today
Mahimahi Today has by far the best fish and chips in town. Their batter is light, crispy perfection, and the fish is always fresh and flavorful with a good portion at a good price. Paired with their golden, crunchy fries, it's a meal you don’t want to miss, and you’ll want more after you try it. Definitely a local favorite of mine! This eatery also has vegan and gluten-free options.
11:00 - 20:00 (Wed. off)
+886 - 89 - 220100
No. 993, Gengsheng Rd, Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
TTwilight Bazaar 微光集
Whether you live in Taitung or you’re just visiting, you cannot miss TTwilight Bazaar. It’s a vibrant hub of culture and music, where local artists and musicians bring the place alive. You can stroll through the cobblestone lanes, enjoy live music performances, eat delicious local food, and maybe pick up some unique, handmade craft items. It’s a great way to spend an evening, soaking up local vibes and creativity.
Thu. - Sun. 17:00 - 22:00
No. 123, Xinsheng Rd, Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Dong Tair Spa Hotel
Situated between the river on one side and mountains on the other, this hot spring in Zhiben is a perfect spot to soak. In addition to outdoor pools that offer a range of temperatures — there’s even a cold pool — this hotel has a water park, a big sand pit, and a large soft-play area equipped with a trampoline and climbing equipment for kids. For families, it’s hard to beat this hot spring.
+886 - 89 - 512918
No. 147, Longquan Rd, Beinan Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
The irresistible embrace of sun and sea
無法抗拒陽光與海浪的擁抱 DULAN
Born to a Hong Kong mother and a Taiwanese father and raised in the bustle of Hong Kong, I’ve always doubted my identity. My values of peace, tranquility, and sustainability are at odds with Hong Kong’s fast-paced and competitive lifestyle. After graduating from a Traditional Chinese Medicine course, I returned to my father’s homeland. After first visiting my Taiwanese relatives in Keelung and Yilan, I decided to go on a round-island journey and look for a place where I could settle down.
Upon arriving in Taitung, I dove headfirst into the vibrant community, eager to immerse myself in its rich culture and natural beauty. I arrived at a hostel in Meishan in Chenggong Township, having arranged two months’ free accommodation in exchange for working there. Thanks to years of practicing with my father, I didn’t have any pronounced accent when speaking Mandarin. The locals welcomed me with open arms. Some even thought I was from the same village, because of my tanned skin and round eyes!
I started learning about indigenous culture, from how indigenous people speak to what they eat. “The ocean is our fridge, and the mountain is our night market. Our ancestors taught us how to hunt, when to hunt, and what not to because we need to keep nature in balance,” said one of the kaka (Amis for older brother). He also offered to name me after the ocean, giving me the Amis name Riyal. I was told to return to the village for the next harvest festival (Ilisin, 豐年祭 ). That planted a seed in my heart, and I immediately began planning my next visit.
After leaving Chenggong, my round-island trip continued to Green Island and Orchid Island, but I had to pause it and return to Hong Kong because of the pandemic. A few months passed before I again stepped on Taitung’s soil. Instead of continuing my journey to southern and western Taiwan, my heart insisted on returning to Taitung.
It was supposed to be a short visit, but destiny seemed to have different plans. During my second visit to Chenggong, I met A’do, who later became my life and business partner. She is a city-grown Amis who didn’t know much about her indigenous roots, but decided to return to her hometown. Together, we began our “new” life in Taitung.
After we both got restaurant jobs in Dulan, we moved to this lively community down the coast. Unlike any other place I’ve been to, Dulan is a unique village filled with indigenous
By Gloria Wu
Hong Konger
3 years in Taiwan, Taitung Food and outdoor adventure entrepreneur
Gloria(left) with A'do(right) and the puppies
people, Han Taiwanese, and foreigners. It preserves the rich cultural history of Amis and, at the same time, welcomes a mix of foreign cultures. The magical chemistry between traditions and modern ideas truly makes the small village spark.
With a shared passion for culinary exploration and a flair for entrepreneurship, we embarked on a journey to start our own food business in 2022. We named our brand Minokay, which means “returning home” in Amis. The name carries two meanings: My partner returning to her Amis roots and learning about her culture, and me finding a place in Taitung to call home. For me, food is more than just sustenance; it is a bridge to understanding the soul of a place. While running our business, we dig deep into Amis culture to understand their generations-old wisdom. We strive to honor Taitung’s indigenous heritage and preserve its culinary legacy for generations through our creations.
Taitung has fantastic food resources from both the land and the ocean. We use rice from Chishang, fish from Chenggong, and produce from around Taitung to create our version of yaki onigiri (Japanese grilled riceball). Inspired by indigenous food culture, we crafted fusion cuisine using
indigenous herbs and culinary skills to celebrate the region’s diverse flavors and traditions. From the Slow Food Festival to the Moonlight Sea Concert, our dishes quickly found a place in the hearts of locals and tourists alike.
Beyond the kitchen, Taitung’s breathtaking landscapes became my playground for exploration and rejuvenation. Whether sunbathing on the beach or doing stand-up paddling (SUP) in the ocean, I find solace and serenity in the county’s natural splendor. Even though I was given the nickname “Little Fish” (Xiao Yu, 小魚 ) after arriving in Taitung, I never felt any bond with water before moving here. My love for the ocean began in Taitung after getting my first scuba-diving license in Green Island. Later, I got a SUP coaching license, which eventually led me to start a watersports business with A’do.
During summer, we take people out on SUP tours so they can watch the sunrise from sea level. Sometimes, we even bring along our two fur babies, Aray (“thank you” in the Amis language) and Baiji (“money”), since they enjoy the water as much as we do. Then we do what we are best at, cooking delicious food, but we do it by the beach. The tour usually ends with chilling while having breakfast next to the Pacific, which we think is the best thing to do on the East Coast.
Christmas dinner with friends
Harvest Festival in Xiaogang, Chenggong
Because of our businesses, our days in Taitung are always packed with adventures. People used to say the Taitung lifestyle equals retirement, but for us, life is no less busy than living in a city. We work just as much, if not more, than any office worker. A busy day starts early in the morning with our sunrise SUP tour, then continues with opening up our food booth in a market, and finishes with midnight washing and cleaning up our kitchen. Yet we enjoy every bit of the life we’ve created in Taitung, because it brings tremendous joy that we couldn’t experience elsewhere.
Even since moving to Taitung, I’ve been lucky enough to be surrounded by great friends whom I consider family away from home. Starting a business in a brand new environment isn’t easy, but things got more manageable when I met people who have been or are going through the same struggles as me. Meeting like-minded people and sharing meals are among the best times I spend in Taitung. I can’t imagine myself without the support and love my “brothers and sisters” have given me since I started my life here.
Taitung is a huge county, but it bonds people more closely and more profoundly than in a highly developed city like Hong Kong. Before, I’d spend hours on my phone, scrolling on social media and texting with friends. Now, I prefer sitting next to my dear friends around a campfire, drinking homemade mulled wine, and sharing stories under the stars.
Reflecting on my journey so far, I’m grateful for the opportunities and experiences that Taitung has given me. This place has provided me with a livelihood and enriched my life in ways I could never have imagined. I’m excited to continue my journey in this idyllic corner of the world, surrounded by its people, nature, and culture.
Taitung is where my heart belongs, and as long as its embrace continues, I plan to call this place home for many years to come.
Minokay food booth in Slow Food Festival
Gloria and the puppies
TIPS FROM EDITOR STEVEN
To access the coast north of Taitung City and places like Dulan and Chenggong, useful buses include the 8101, 8102, 8103, and 8119. These also stop in Fugang (the harbor for ferries to Green Island and Orchid Island), and at points of interest like Xiaoyeliu and the surfing hotspot of Donghe.
GLORIA WU'S TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
Haiduan
Tiao Gang Café 眺港咖啡
Located in a renovated private clinic next to a traditional Japanese-style residence, Tiao Gang Cafe is one of the best places to relax and enjoy a warm afternoon in Chenggong. Linda and Alvis work as a duo in the cafe, serving heart-warming herbal tea and desserts made with local ingredients. It’s the only “clinic” I love to revisit again and again.
12:00-18:00 (Wed. off)
No. 57, Zhongshan E Rd, Chenggong Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
AQUA Café 海廢咖啡
Located right next to a famous surfing spot, AQUA Cafe welcomes surfers and travelers with delicious coffee and handmade desserts. Lulu, the owner, does her bit to reduce marine pollution by reducing the amount of plastic waste her business produces. Inside, you’ll find a display of handicrafts made of driftwood or from plastic bottles collected from nearby beaches.
12:00 - 18:00 (Thu. off)
+886 - 920517863
No. 181, Donghe Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Bryce’s Garden 江克白在花園
Dulan’s best burger place, for sure! Bryce’s unique recipes make the food here highly distinctive. Their juicy pulled pork with guabao surprises newcomers. And if you love your food to be a little spicy, the ghost-pepper sauce burger won’t disappoint you. They also offer a range of craft beers from around the world to pair with their finger-licking dishes. Don’t worry if you don’t know which beer to pick — Wancy always gives excellent recommendations.
Thu. - Mon. 16:00 - 21:00
+886 - 981231302
V6CF+Q7 Doulan Village, Donghe Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Hai Gui Studio 海歸工作坊
"I bought my candies in this store when I was a kid, and I wanted to open my own candy store in the same place when I returned to Fugang, my hometown,” says Qiqi, the owner of Hai Gui Studio. Not only does she sell old-school sweets, but she also collects and sells handicrafts made by the locals. There’s a story behind everything in her store, and she’s the storyteller in this beautiful fishing village.
9:00 - 17:00 (Wed. off)
+886 - 976538186
No. 130, Fugang St, Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Traveled the world, then chose Taitung
By Kari Batik
Swiss
19 years in Taiwan, 4½ years in Taitung Tour guide and B&B host
LUYE
Not long after my first visit to Taiwan in 1986, while working at a store back home in Geneva, I met a Taiwanese lady, Shiau Hong. She was studying Spanish at the University of Salamanca.
The following year, Shiau Hong brought me back to Taiwan. I lived in Taipei for six months, selling bracelets from Sri Lanka in Gongguan Night Market, and Chinese teapots in a morning market. I returned for eight months in 1989-1990 to sell artifacts, jewelry, and clothes I’d bought in Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand.
Shiau Hong and I rented a shop to sell our goods near Xinyi Road Section 2, just a few minutes’ walk from a simple yet popular dumpling shop we often ate at. We had a huge surprise when we went back some years later, and the cheap little shop had become the super-famous Ding Tai Fung. I still enjoy eating there whenever I go back to Taipei.
Twelve years later, Shiau Hong — by now my wife — and I subleased our restaurant in Geneva and moved for two years to Dongshan in Yilan County so our two boys could attend Chinese-language elementary school and soak up their mother’s culture.
During those two years, I spent much of my time exploring Taiwan. I snorkeled and dived in the Pacific. I grilled fish over driftwood fires. Back then, the beaches were mostly empty. Few people knew how to swim. Nowadays the younger generation learn how to swim, dive, surf, and get a suntan.
Taiwan is covered with mountains, and Taitung has a beautiful high-altitude little lake called Jiaming Lake. If you go there, it’s possible to continue northward and enjoy a multi-day hike through true wilderness.
During our second year in Yilan, we made our first family trip to Taitung, driving down the east coast
to Taitung and flying to Lanyu (Orchid Island). We spent two incredible weeks discovering the culture of the Tao people, which revolves around the sea and fishing. We had a chance to visit traditional half-buried houses, designed to withstand the strongest typhoons. With some Tao locals, I went fishing near Little Lanyu. It was quite an experience, snorkeling up and down to install the net, holding it down with stones, and then swimming a certain way to direct a huge school of fish into the net. We pulled thousands of fish into the boat that morning.
At the end of those two years, we went back to our life and restaurant in Geneva. We missed the freedom we’d had in Taiwan, so we thought of moving again. We almost went to India, but in the end we chose Taiwan. We moved back in 2007 and
Harvest bamboo shoots
For the first four or five years I worked as a mountain guide, but I had to stop after hurting my back. About that time I decided to buy a house and remodel it to my taste. I shocked my friends by smashing all the interior walls, doors, windows, floors, toilets, and kitchen. Then began the work of rebuilding it according to my design. My wife would tell our friends that I was playing “Big boys’ Lego”! It was much harder than I thought, trying to get bricklayers and electricians to do what I wanted, as my ideas were a little too exotic for them. I wanted unconventional materials and strange curved corners everywhere. The house eventually became livable again. I had to learn so many things, and went through so many frustrations, but it was like creating a piece of art. Once we moved in, I was rewarded with a lot of compliments from friends who mentioned various faraway countries when trying to describe the style of the house.
Yilan is great in many ways, but it’s too damp for me. Once our boys moved out, we started thinking of finding another place to live. India came up again. We also considered France, New Zealand, and Croatia — but we would have been too far from our sons, who wanted to stay in Taiwan. I wanted countryside and clean air, and thought about doing some organic farming and running a bed and breakfast.
We started searching south of Hualien and ended up, in the final few months of 2018, buying a place in Luye. I’d thought about getting a property near the coast, but I realized it might be difficult to grow trees (except for coconuts) because of the typhoons.
The house we chose is a fully legal structure quite far from the main road and from other houses. In addition to being delightfully quiet, there’s no “light pollution” from street lights. The land it’s on is quite sizable and has several mature trees. Also, it’s near the main venue of Taitung’s annual hot air balloon festival.
We were working as tour guides and my wife was regularly traveling abroad as a tour leader, so we thought we’d be financially prepared for me to again play “Big boys’ Lego” and make the house attractive and exotic.
Of course, we hadn’t anticipated Covid-19, which meant no traveling and no income. It was a bit unsettling at first, since we had a large bank loan. Again, there were multiple problems when renovating the house, similar to those we’d experienced with the Yilan house, but on a much larger scale. We managed with more loans, some English teaching, and local bicycle-tour guiding
Kari with his wife and the puppies
work. After three and a half years, we finally started welcoming guests at Six Lands, our bed and breakfast, around the end of spring 2022 — just before the balloon festival high season.
My comfortable yet unusual design and our delicious cooking were quickly rewarded with a good number of customers. This relieved our financial stress, yet it was still quite a challenge and a gamble to start a business we’d never done before. I guess, because we’d both traveled a lot and stayed in all kinds of places, and we’d run a restaurant, we had lots of ideas and experience dealing with people. We weren’t completely unprepared. It helps that Taitung isn’t a fast-paced place. People come to connect with a countryside lifestyle. That made it easier to learn our new job.
Since the B&B business has picked up pretty fast and it uses most of my energy, I haven’t developed many of my farming projects. We grow some fruits and vegetables, and we raise a few chickens. So far, it’s all on a small scale. I’m looking forward to getting back to it, hopefully in the near future, and investing some time and money in the various ideas in my head. Life is an ongoing project with multiple possible outcomes. Time will tell what I’ll get into next! 中文摘要 Abstract
Kari and his wife in front of a rice field
Serving the bread
TIPS FROM EDITOR STEVEN
The location of Luye’s train station isn’t very convenient for tourists. To get up to Luye Highland, the only public transportation option is the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle East Rift Valley Line (8168A). See www. taiwantrip.com.tw for timetables and details of this and other Tourist Shuttle services around Taiwan.
KARI BATIK'S TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Haiduan
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
Taitung Drug Abuse Rehabilitation Center Café
武陵咖啡廳
Taitung has so many different restaurants and coffee shops. This one is unusual in that it’s located within a prison and the staff who prepare and serve food and drinks are all inmates. It may not be five-star but the food and service are certainly more than adequate. A memorable place to visit with an interesting twist.
Mon. - Fri. 9:00 - 17:00
+886 - 89 - 581014 #308
X4CF+M4 Luye Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Arong Natural Farm 阿榮甘仔店
The happy sweet couple that run this shop grow and sell dried, slightly smoked pineapples. They’re really delicious and quite different from the dried pineapples sold elsewhere. They make great gifts to bring back to friends and family. They also run an atmospheric cozy tea/coffee shop. A must stop while visiting Longtian Village in Luye!
7:00 - 21:00
+886 - 910176827
No. 163, Guangrong Rd, Luye Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Lin Wang Tea Farm 林旺製茶廠
Years ago, the owner’s father and his friends would go into the mountains to pick wild-tea leaves. This gave the owner the idea of growing wild mountain tea varieties on his land in Longtian and processing them in his factory, to avoid the tiring climb. He also cultivates other kinds of tea, but I find the wild teas particularly interesting. Thanks to the owner’s years of experience, this is a good place to buy organic teas.
8:00 - 18:00
+886 - 963427889
No. 55, Naner Rd, Luye Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Luye District Administration Office
Many houses built during the 1895-1945 period of Japanese colonial rule have been restored, but oftentimes they lose much of their old charm. This building was destined to be demolished. However, a group of locals decided it was worth saving, and they now pay a yearly rent to the owner, Taiwan Sugar Corp., raising funds by organizing concerts, seasonal markets, and other events. They also sell Japanese antiques. The building has been partly renovated, but mostly left as it was.
+886 - 9551485
No. 135, Guangrong Rd, Luye Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Hello! Taitung: Your launchpad for experiential travel
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An essential guide for everyone eager to explore Taitung in depth, this recently launched nonprofit website integrates and promotes Englishspeaking service spots cultivated by the Taitung County Government over the years to ensure effortless accessibility for international visitors.
Presented by the Taitung County Government International and Planning Department, Hello! Taitung (hellotaitung.com) ingeniously categorizes Taitung County into four distinct regional destinations, aligning with transportation arteries and topography. But that’s not all – a myriad of activities and interest clusters have been thoughtfully curated for outsiders to explore, promising rich and unparalleled experiences.
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Bilingual Websites
Hello Taitung
Facebook page managed by the International Development & Planning Department of the Taitung County Government.
News, upcoming events, stores offering bilingual services, in-depth bilingual experiences, international reception teams
Taitung Travel Website
Official website managed by the Tourism Department of the Taitung County Government.
Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation
Taitung Taidong 台東 , Taiwan Group
Facebook group for people who live or have lived in Taitung, Taiwan.
News, upcoming events, and other information
Discover Taitung
APP & Transport
Taitung Travel App
Official app managed by the Tourism Department of the Taitung County Government.
Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation
Official website managed by the International Development & Planning Department of the Taitung County Government.
Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation
Taiwan Bus Tracker 臺灣等公車
Android
Android iOS iOS
Emergency Telephone Numbers
The Taitung County Government has collaborated with Crossroads ( 社團法人台灣 全球連結發展協會 ) to launch TTNomads - a platform to attract digital nomads and travelers, connect them with local businesses, and boost economic development in Taitung County.
Local stakeholders wanting to connect with new customers, or anybody wishing to meet new friends in Taitung of all nationalities and walks of life are welcome to join TTNomads. Click on the URL or scan the QR codes below to visit the platform and register a free account.
