HELLO TAITUNG｜3-1｜Extreme Taitung

極限台東

Extreme Taitung Live Free Dive Free + Finding New Ways in Old Places + An Extreme Life in Taitung! + Cycling to Know Yourself

Jennie Miller - a free soul who free dives

Volume 3, Issue 1 | June 2023

A Day in the Life

Contents Taitung Revealed

Taitung Experiences

Extreme Inspiration Simon Foster

So Many Ways to Have Fun

Editor's Note

Bilingual Shops

Extreme Taitung

4

Cover Story

Unique and Friendly Businesses

26

Made in Taitung

Great Local Shops

Live Free Dive Free Jennie Miller

30

6

Special Features

Useful Information

Finding New Ways in Old Places Martin Fogle (Asan Surot)

Start Your Taitung Journey 10

“WaGaLiGong” – “Let Me Tell You All About It … ” – An Extreme Life in Taitung!

Mark Jackson

14

Cycling to Know Yourself Kenji Sugata

18

Published by Taitung County Government Publisher \ April Yao 饒慶鈴 Editor-in-Chief \ Jasper Tsao 曹劍秋 Managing Editor \ Simon William Foster Editorial Team \ Chloe Lo 羅淑琴 Jasmine Lin 林宛靚 Connie Wu 吳亞馨 Gyan Francis Kumar 熊智 Project Manager \ Co-create Planning & Design Consultancy 津和堂城鄉創意顧問有限公司 Executive Editors \ Li-Chin Kuo 郭麗津 Chloe Wu 吳帷稜 Steven Kuan 關正揚 Rosalie Lin 林冠妤 Photography \ Dfusion Photography 拾光快門影像工作室 Layout and Design \ Yu-Che Liao 廖育徹 Address \ No. 276, Zhongshan Road, Taitung City, Taitung County, 950 Date of Publication \ June 30, 2023 ISSN \ 2789-2174

22

2

GPN \ 2011000012

32

Taitung Revealed

W

Extreme Inspiration

elcome to the fifth edition of Hello Taitung!

I’d like to star t by thanking the editorial team for their hard work and all of the contributing aut hor s for sh a r i ng t hei r s tor ie s a nd photo s .

A not her fe w mont h s h a s pa s s e d a nd w it h t he borders now fully open, Taiwan’s most beautiful count y has once again opened its arms to fresh faces from around the globe. Bamboo Bakery sees new customers and finally we get to share the magic of the island with international cyclists after three years of abstinence. The trees are green, heavy with fruit, the winds have changed, there’s moisture in the air and there has never been a better time to get out and experience extreme Taitung in all its majesty!

極 限靈感

By Simon Foster From the UK 19 years in Taiwan

Extreme sports is a broad term that is commonly applied to a host of different sports and activities, not ne c e s sa r i ly a lw ay s ac c u r ately. E s sent ia l ly extreme sports are taken to be those which involve signif icant risk, and require a level of skill and judgement for a successful outcome (ie. no injury) which of ten produces an adrenaline r ush! Such pursuits a re of ten c a r r ied out solo or in sma ll groups, and might be considered an art form as well as a sport, appreciated for aesthetics as much as physical capacity.

Managing Editor at Hello Taitung Guidebook author, travel business director and bakery owner

Some “extreme” sports like bunjee jumping require little more than the courage to jump (or fall) off the edge, but others demand precision and focus.

Endurance events (such as triathlons or Ironman) are also sometimes described as extreme sports.

However, like most things, the level of extremity is subjective, and one person’s epic hike is another’s

Riding local Hercules bikes across Southenn India

Extremely High!

2

Extreme Living

Extremely cold swimming at 4500m

morning stroll – the term extreme sport might be used to describe any activity which takes someone out of their comfort zone. Each discipline requires unique and specific skills and strengths, and whilst many have that shout-out-loud wahoo moment, equally the intense focus required for some extreme spor ts like f reeclimbing or f reediv ing can a lso lead to a meditative state, which is also true for endurance sports.

My own life has been peppered w ith forays into t he world of e x t r eme sp or t s, BM X r id i ng a nd skateboarding as a kid, kayaking, snowboarding, bunjee jumping, climbing and tomb-stoning in my teens and 20s, then shifting to endurance cycling on gearless bikes through the deser t in my 30s and 40s, although the only wahoo moment w ith the latter was stepping off the bike! These days the most extreme I get is barrelling steep downhills on my bike, paddle-boarding with the kids or jumping off the odd cliff. In reading the inspiring articles written by this edition’s contributors and thinking about extreme sports I realized I should get out there and ex per ience Taitung’s ex treme beaut y in some new ways. Hopefully you feel the same climb, hike, paddle, ride, sail, SUP, surf, swim, find your passion and do your thing here in paradise!

中文摘要 Abstract

Hiking in the Picos de Europa

3

Editor's Note

Extreme Taitung

T

he theme for this edition is “Extreme Taitung”, with the aim of giving an idea of the extreme sports and complimentary lifestyles that are possible here in Taitung. In this edition we meet four fascinating individuals who have chosen to practice their passions right here in Taitung, the extreme sports capital of Taiwan. Jennie Miller is a free soul who freedives from her Dulan base. Nearby WaGaLiGong hostel, bar, restaurant and watersports center was co-founded by Mark Jackson who rides almost anything the Pacific or the concrete streets can throw at him. To the north in Douli, Martin Fogle grew up in Germany but now surfs the same waves as his Amis forefathers, and shares his passion and culture with locals and outsiders alike through Torik Ocean Surf. I also get the chance to interview Kenji Sugata, originally from Japan and a man of many talents, now to be found cycling the backroads or tracing mountain streams around Bawengweng.

4

中文摘要 Abstract

5

Cover Story

I

Water Baby

about freediving, was when my friend and I went to an Olympic-sized swimming pool in Taipei and I swam up and back and up again without a breath.

He observed and said “You know, there is this sport called freediving…”

’ve loved being in the water my whole life. I remember t h row i ng objec t s i nto my u ncle’s frozen over lake in New Hampshire to break the ice so that I could immerse myself in it. I could play in the sw imming pool ALL day ever y day in the summers. I loved holding my breath on the inhale and exhale and diving down as far as I could in any water source. When I was 17 I became a lifeguard and swimming instructor for all age groups. I didn’t start surfing until I was 26. The first time I heard

It sounded amazing, but in 2005, I had no idea how to b e g i n a s at t he t i me t he i nte r ne t w a s less abundant and my finances were slow … The prev ious year I had moved to Taiwan f rom t he USA. Not because I didn’t like it, on the contrary, 6

Live Free Dive Free 自在生活，自由潛水

By Jennie Miller From the USA Lived in Taiwan for 20 Years.

Handpoke Tattoo Artist / Breathwork and Sadhu Board Facilitator / Clothes Designer

Dulan

I wanted something more. I wanted to live in a vast ly d if ferent cu lt ure w it h a vast ly d if ferent language, preferably Mandarin. My requirements were: warm climate, Mandarin language and the income/cost of liv ing gap being large enough to pay my monthly school loans. Through entering my info into databases, a Taiwanese agent contacted me and piqued my interest by advertising my exact requirement s. At t he t ime, I d id n’t even k now Taiwan was its own country! I sold my belongings and motorcycle and moved to Taipei. I lived in

Taipei for 8 years teaching English, and surfing on the weekends. Life in Taipei wasn’t ideal for me, and surfing was my passion, keeping me sane and healthy. On long vacation surf trips to Taitung ever y month, I realized this was the place to be “normally”. So I then most happily moved to Dulan and stabilized my dream of surviving from my arts and skills and have enjoyed living and surfing in Taitung for almost 12 years now.

7

Cover Story

Jennie long posing in the water

Doing yoga

Freediving

“How deep can you dive?”

It wasn’t until the w inter of 2016 that I f inally made a t r ip to Gi l i A i r, I ndone sia to properly t a k e f r e e d i v i ng c l a s s e s w it h a n A I DA S c ho ol (International Association for the Development of Apnea). I meant to do what a friend had done and take Level 1, 2 and perhaps 3, but found myself zooming through these smoothly and confidently, so I went on to 4 and then on to the Instr uctor Course, all within 5 weeks. I ended up extending my trip and changing my f light! However the instructor course didn’t go as smoothly for me: the tests were intense and I had already been training hard for a few weeks, so I didn’t complete one performance requirement and therefore didn’t become an official instructor who could issue licenses. However, I still taught a few people in Taiwan for trade, like fruit, boat tickets, or freediving equipment.

When they hear that I freedive, this is the question that ever yone asks. I did complete the required 40 meter dive, which many people tend to focus on. Someone asked me what is it like to dive to 40 meters and then look up. Since I have only dived this deep once, I was focused on looking straight ahead at the rope I was following and maintaining my technique in equalizing and finning properly.

My instructor told me you can look up and where you are going, but then come right back to looking straight ahead….it keeps your technique smooth, makes equalization easier and puts less stress on your body and compressed lungs. Perhaps someone who often practices at 40 or even 50 meters could look up as they fin because they are so used to it, but I’m not there yet!

Freediving as part of a Meditative Life

There are a variety of places where you can freedive in Taitung, but Lanyu (Orchid Island) is my favorite.

During the late spring, summer and early fall the water is beautifully blue and clear. You can see sea turtles, fish and other coral life and there are plenty of underwater caves and tunnels to swim through.

I have never been to Green Island, but have heard it also has amazing diving. Back on the mainland, Sanxiantai has depths past 40 meters, but often has a lot of currents - one side of the island might be choppy, the other calm, so it really depends on the weather and ocean conditions.

Freediving is considered an extreme sport, however, unlike most others, for this one it’s necessary to calm oneself down, almost like falling asleep and then gently take a breath and meditatively fin down into the depths, with no exhaling the whole dive.

Slowing down the heartbeat and calming the mind are the tricks for freediving. As such, freediving fits nicely into my life since I not only enjoy quality aquatic time, I also love meditative, “going inwards” pr ac t ic e s. W hen I’m not f r e e d iv i ng I pr ac t ic e Intuitive Freehand Handpoke Tattooing, design and make one-of-a-kind upcycled patchwork clothing 8

a nd e c o -bi k i n i s, f ac i l it ate s t a nd i ng on S ad hu Boards (or helping people stand on nails), and run breathwork sessions for therapeutic purposes. All of these practices involve slowing down and being more aware of breathing, which in itself is ver y healing. Many freedivers say that they get a little high from the breath-holds and oceanic pressure on the body, which is like Mother Ocean giving you a hug!

Why Taiwan? Why Taitung?

Many people still ask me this question and the answers are many and might differ depending on t he day. Tait ung’s env ironment and t he people attracted to living in such a place feed a slower, more aware and intimate pace of life. I love the life my partner, Aguang, and I have designed here in Taitung. We have both picked up so many handy skills, become closer to the community, breathing more fresh air, absorbing more sunny weather and getting closer to the earth and nature. Freediving i s ju s t one pa r t of my l i fe her e , but p er fe c t ly enc ap s u l ate s w h at it me a n s to l ive f r e e , s el fsufficient and at one with nature!

Jennie and her husband

looking for inspiration before designing a tattoo

Enjoying music in the yard

中文摘要 Abstract

Facebook

9

Special Feature

DULI

Finding New Ways in Old Places 用 新 的 方 式 探 索 故 鄉

By Martin Fogle (Asan Surot) From Germany and Taiwan Lived in Taiwan 15 Years Torik Ocean Surf

10

Finding Home in Torik a Niyaro’

I

to the village of my ancestors I finally found the closest thing I could call to home - the only place where one’s identity is bound by family. To someone who had never felt a real footing any where, this connection had a profound impact, and my time here has been blessed with the freedom to explore all kinds of passions and interests.

(The village of Torik)

s ome t i me s w ond e r i f i t w a s b y m i s t a k e or design that I ended up back in the land of my ancestors? The seeds were planted early on when grow ing up abroad but coming home to Taitung for ex tended per iods of t ime unex pected ly lef t a long-lasting impression. Par t of my family is indigenous Taiwanese A mis, and as a youngster I always thought our native tongue was spoken throughout the island! Even when I was back in Germany, I would speak that native tongue to other Asians, until I figured out that nobody knew what I was saying …. It wasn’t until the later years of elementary school that I finally realized from an accumulation of differences that our culture really had nothing to do with the Mandarin Chinese which was being taught at the school I attended.

A New Generation of Oceangoers: Torik Ocean Surf S o h e r e I a m t o d a y, m a n y y e a r s l a t e r, f u l l y established, roaming my ancestral homeland and (somewhat) like my ancestors living in accordance to the seasons! Our Torik Ocean Surf operation started early in 2015 as a loose gathering of a few local young guys learning to surf, which coincided w ith neighbor ing elementar y schools becoming mor e env i r on ment a l ly aw a r e , a nd w a nt i ng to include more cultural and outdoor activities in their curriculum. As the East Coast is being pried open for tourism and expansion, we feel it ever more important to value and share our Amis culture with people that come by. We also feel strongly about raising awareness and bringing attention to our natural resources, which seem up for exploitation at the slightest hint of monetary opportunity. People from elsewhere come to Taitung to enjoy the bounty of her nature and have fun, but it is also important for them to understand the impact humans can

After high school graduation in 2008, I immediately left for Taiwan to attend university. Looking back it was all just an excuse to hang out in this part of the world and be closer to my roots. I still vividly recall those days as a child coming home to visit, when I would observe our elders go spearfishing and we would sw im and mess around close to the shore - sand got ever y where! I was mesmerized when my uncles nonchalantly came back to shore with all kinds of exotic ocean creatures. As I returned

Pacefongan surf lesson

11

Special Feature have on their environment, and the ways our Amis cult ure tr ies to limit t his. A ll of our tours and lessons include aspects of Amis culture and teach the original local place names.

A few generations ago Pacefongan was a beach filled with small fishing rafts, with every family owning several and trying to get closest to the rip current.

T he n a me Pac e fonga n me a n s t he pl ac e w her e one gets in the water and was given due to the consistent rip current which pulls our fishing boats and divers out to deeper waters. Today the beach is lined with a new kind of craft: looking something like a traditional fishing raft from afar, the simple SUP surf is a versatile board which has opened up a world of possibilities and the ability to catch all kinds of waves away from the crowds ….

At Torik Ocean Surf we offer in-depth surf lessons to allow all-comers to safely enjoy the ocean from our Pacefongan beach break. We offer various SUP tours to different places. Personally, my favorite is the sunrise SUP tour along our traditional fishing ter r itor y where we can share our k nowledge of the ocean to the w illing ear. In the earlier par t of the year, guests will most likely encounter our t r ibe smen on t he water lay ing out or br ing ing f ishing net s back in - it is a lways g reat to see the catch (or no catch) of the day. Being far out also gives one a unique vantage point to see the enchanting shoreline from a distance. The village coastline stretches for roughly a kilometer and a half, and there are plenty of things to learn and appreciate from this intertidal zone.

Torik Ocean Surf market

SUP surfing is a more niche branch of surfing with many intricacies which we pass on to our guests to help them improve more quickly, and to prevent injury. To me SUP surfing is a lot like life – small steps forward are humbled by new challenges. Every step down in board size forces you to relearn from ground zero. Personally, I like to use the smallest performance SUP to surf when there are waves.

Due to new construction technology, SUP boards are so light and nimble now that they surf much like smaller surf boards but with more volume. When it’s really f lat it is time to take the big SUP out and go spearfishing or explore new places to dive.

Sea urchin harvesting with other T.O.S coaches

Sunrise SUP tour

12

“Where is the Fish?”

Passing on t he lessons of our a ncestors whi lst sharing the joys of where we live with outsiders is the best way we know to protect our culture and env ironment (a nd people’s sa fet y), but it must still seem strange to our elders. With most people here having a background in harvesting or fishing from the ocean, in the early days, it was a shared experience among us to come home from surfing to hear elders asking “Icowa’ay ko Futing (Where is the Fish?)?” or “Icowa’ay ko Cekiw (Where is the Shellfish)?”. Many elders couldn’t comprehend being out on the ocean all day and coming home with no seafood and it does make sense actually!

Teaching others water skills and about our culture is one of the ways we survive here and as such is as good as catching fish, possibly even better as the sea creatures live to see another day!

Torik Ocean Surf shop

中文摘要 Abstract

Instagram

Torik SUP

13

Special Feature

“WaGaLiGong” – “Let Me Tell You All About It …. ” – An Extreme Life in Taitung! 讓 我 告 訴你－在台東的極限生活

Dulan

By Mark Jackson From South Africa Lived in Taiwan for 19 Years Co-founder of WaGaLiGong

Air gybe at Dulan, 2022 (Photo by Wouter van Marle)

14

Where it All Began –

lake. The sk y turned dark and the temperature dropped as a storm approached. It was mesmerizing watching the water texture change from glass to white horses which gathered speed and galloped across the lake. It was scary and exciting, feeling my sail suddenly fill up with so much primal energy.

My skinny arms couldn’t hold all that power, so I moved back on the board and for the first time put my feet in the foot-straps. When the full brunt of the squall hit, the energy transitioned into forward m o m e nt u m a n d t h e b o a r d , u s e d t o c hu r n i n g through the water like a hippopotamus, suddenly came alive, gracefully rose up and breached the surface until only the back third was in contact with the water. The speed was exhilarating – I was f lying over the lake driven by the wind – and I too was hooked on windsurfing!

Skating and Windsurfing in South Africa

M

y hometown in South Africa couldn’t have been further from the sea. Weekends were spent skateboarding with friends, or windsurfing with my family at one of several lakes. I didn’t know it at the time, but these two sports, although very different and contradictory, would shape my life’s path.

My dad’s love of windsurfing developed on a trip to Maur it ius where he managed to dest roy t he sail over the coral reef but still come home elated, proudly declaring that we were now about to learn t he c oole st new spor t - w i nd su r f i ng! We were curious, but not convinced, and I had just begun my own love affair with skateboarding. Christmas 1988 my Dad bought me my first skateboard, a Christian Hosoi with black Bullet wheels and Independent trucks. Skateboarding opened my world to infinite possibilities, from the style and fashion, music and the attitude, to the fact that you didn’t need a ‘team’ to practice. When skateboarding hit conservative, doldrum-dull, censorship-loving, khaki-wearing Apartheid South Africa in the late 80s, it felt as refreshing as a storm in a drought.

High school f lew by. Skateboarding dominated and holidays were spent at the coast where the winds were stronger. After school I left for the UK, working in a skate-shop for two years and saving money for a skate-inspired pilgrimage to California.

I returned to South Africa at the age of 22 and my college years in Durban, staying across the road from the beach, were a blur of studies, working at the skatepark, surfing and windsurfing. I graduated with a degree in economics, but was unashamedly in love with several boardsports!

It took a little longer to appreciate windsurfing, but everything changed one fateful day at the local

It was my mother’s idea to travel to Taiwan. My father had strong ties to the island through his work, and we had many Taiwanese friends passing through our house when I was young. My oldest sister, Lisa, had worked in Taipei as a sub-editor for the (now defunct) China News and came back with hilarious accounts detailing their stay. The first chapter of her book Travel Seekness is dedicated to that year in Taiwan.

Mark getting air at secret spot

15

Special Feature Taitung Motley Crew – Surfing

Jimmy - Windsurfing

I arrived in Taiwan in 2004, with no job and no skateboard or surf equipment. First impressions weren’t great, but that all changed as I slogged into Kenting on a borrowed 50cc scooter. Kenting was beautiful, but I had been told that better waves awaited further up the east coast in Taitung. On my way into the city, I ran into a university classmate who was teaching English in Taitung. He took one look at my 50cc and invited me to piggyback on his 125. As we headed north Taitung began to show its beauty. Coconut trees lined Highway 11, and the Coastal Mountain Range ran northwards, teetering on the edge of the blue Pacific. Our destination was Donghe, where an expat American had secured a tiny beachfront plot with a 20-foot container facing the break. Thomas had keys so we grabbed t wo boards and spent the afternoon catching play ful little runners. In between waves, we looked back at the mountains and half expected King Kong to poke his head around the corner of a valley, pterodactyls buzzing around his head like f lies. The shack’s ow ner, Pete Brow n (a pre v iou s Hel lo Ta it u ng c ont r i butor) show e d up l ate r. It w a s t h r ou g h Thomas and Pete that I met the small motley crew of Taitung surfers – I felt right at home!

I later discovered that Taitung also offered world class windsurfing. Around 2006 I was surfing near Dulan, when the wind came up and blew out the surf. We were about to call it a day when several locals showed up, walking dow n the beach path with windsurf gear on their heads. One of them, a short well-built guy set his board down, and holding the sail, hopped on and the w ind propelled him into the surf. We watched in awe as this guy came f lying towards us. He was nearly on us when a wave reared up offering a nice steep ramp, so he pumped his sail to increase his speed, hit the wave and was projected into the air like an albatross, f loating for a second just meters away from us. He landed smoothly, and offered a toothy smile, welcoming us to his playground. The handsome pilot, Jimmy, ended up becoming my mentor and fr iend, and to this day is still one of the best windsurfers in Taitung. I owe Jimmy a huge gratitude as he is the reason I rediscovered windsurfing, and ended up staying here as long as I have.

Hosoi Calling - Skateboarding Thomas had another surprise for me that week just behind the university sports stadium lay an empt y skatepark, complete w ith an illuminated 5-foot high by 24-foot wide mini ramp. Apart from the occasional glance from passing exercisers, it just lay there unappreciated, unused, untouched by urethane. I swore then and there that I would reunite with the skateboard. Life in Taitung became a blur of surfing days and skateboarding nights shared with a small crew of friends.

Website Taitung skatepark, circa 2005.

16

Newcomers – SUP and Wing Foiling

I c ont i nue to lo ve a l l of t he w ate r s p or t s I ’ve described, so why choose just one? Purists in each sport might find it odd and sometimes make their opinions know n, but I’m hav ing the time of my life! So when people ask me why we chose to open WaGaLiGong, our watersports center, in Dulan the answer is simply because of the variety it offers.

Dulan allows you to practice multiple activities in one location, and if conditions aren’t perfect, there are other spots just ten or twenty minutes away.

Ever y few years something new comes along. In the 2000s the SUP made its debut in Taitung and of fered all k inds of possibilities – inaccessible breaks or those with “soft” waves were now readily at our disposal. I dove head first into SUP surfing and it soon became another irreplaceable weapon in my arsenal of fun! Another more recent addition, t h e f o i l h a s a c t u a l l y b e e n a r o u n d f o r l o n ge r t han people t hink – w indsur fers in Maui were experimenting with surf foils (towed behind jetskis) back in the 90s. Then kitesurfers and windsurfers started to fix foils under their boards, which caught my attention as the w ind solved the problem of generating speed to get the initial lift and ‘f ly’ the foil. And more recently, a foil-based cross between windsurfing and kitesurfing appeared – the wing.

Similar to a windsurf sail that is not attached to the board, the wing is inf latable and can perform in very light winds, which is what appeals to me most – I now have something to do when the wind is too light for windsurfing.

Taiwaii, our new watersports center (a work in progress)

中文摘要 Abstract

Mark surfing (Photo by Ho Cheng Heng)

17

Special Feature

Cycling to Know Yourself 透過騎車認識自己

By Kenji Sugata From Japan Lived in Taiwan for 15 Years.

Professional photographer, Videographer, divemaster, bike guide & mechanic, kayak & SUP guide

18

CHENG GONG

Happy Kenji!

Fixing Bikes

W

A Journey through Cycling

hen we first moved to Chenggong back in 2015 and people found out that we were in the bike touring business, everyone kept telling me I had to meet this Japanese guy, Kenji Sugata …. A few weeks later an informal gathering at someone’s hou se pre sente d t he oppor t u n it y a nd we have been working together ever since! Kenji is a man of many talents, but true to his Japanese roots, he is as humble as he is skilled, and didn’t feel like his written English was up to writing an article, so we decided on an interview, another first for Hello Taitung, and a great opportunity to get to know more about the elusive cameraman, cyclist, dive master, pasta chef (the list goes on …..)

When did you first get into cycling?

“I remember learning to ride a bike with friends as a kid, using a stabilizer on one side if memory serves me correctly – it was a long time ago! I had a basic mountain bike, but only really used it to get around, and was more interested in riding my motorbike.

But that all changed when I moved to the States and started to get into mountain biking. One of my favorite rides ever was through remote Utah, cycling through the majesty of Bryce Canyon, Zion National Park and into Salt Lake City. Whilst my principal career was as a cameraman, I also became involved in sports photography, documentary, film, commercial, specifically cycling, and so had the opportunity to cycle with some of the biggest names in the business, covering events like the K ing of the Mountains, around Taiwan and the Taipei Cycle Show”.

Growing up in Japan Hi Kenji, great to have you here. Can you please tell us a little about growing up in Japan in the 1970s?

“I was bor n in K awasak i Cit y, not too far f rom Tok yo, and had a fairly uneventf ul childhood. I remember high school being hard work, but also t hat I enjoyed play ing ba seba l l a nd racing my motorbike. As I got older I had a few jobs to provide some extra money, including as a waiter, and even a model! But really I had my mind set on learning how to make movies in Hollywood, and at age 20 I left Japan and lived in LA for the following three years.”

Checking out the Giro d’Italia trophy

19

Special Feature Emigrate to Taitung

Riding around the Island

And how is it that you came to live in Chenggong, Taitung County?

“I first visited Taiwan in the late 2000s as part of the production crew for a Japanese band. I decided I liked it and then ended up working as a cameraman in Taipei. But as I’ve gotten older the appeal of the cit y has waned whilst the attractions of the countr yside have grow n. I f irst v isited Taitung County around 12 years ago as part of a ride around t he isla nd a nd k new t hat I’d found somewhere special. So a few years ago when a friend moved down here it seemed like the perfect opportunity and I decided to leave the Big Smoke behind me and retreat to the wilds of Taitung County. When I lived in Taipei I used to miss Japan, but since I’ve moved to Taitung I rarely think about “home”. I think I will live here forever.”

Yo u m e n t i o n r i d i n g a r o u n d t h e i s l a n d – t h e huandao – which is now seen as something of a once in a lifetime rite of passage for many young Taiwanese. Is that something you’d recommend?

“I’ve now completed the island circuit six times and think it is the best way to see this beautiful island – slow enough to experience real life and “stop and smell the roses”, but faster than walking!

With government and private investment in cycling infrastructure (like cycling paths and rest stops) and the advent of new technology including GPS navigation and e-bikes there has never been a better time to see Taiwan from the saddle. There is also something uniquely powerful about using your own “engine” to circumnavigate the island, the shared experience when you meet other riders doing the same thing, and the meditative effect of riding all day every day for 9 or 10 days that allows you to really know yourself. ”

Mountain Biking or Road Cycling I know that you’ve done lots of different kinds of riding over the years – what is your favorite at the moment?

“I used to love mountain biking, but these days I’m enjoying high-speed fun on my road bike. Whilst it feels like hard work at the time, the satisfaction of using my own steam and willpower to get up tough hills, and then the reward and thrill of the downhill keeps me happy! My favorite road in Taitung at the moment is Highway 23 from Donghe to Fuli – it’s the longest route across the Coastal Mountain Range which peaks out at around 650 meters, but t he scener y is spec tacu la r, you of ten see more wildlife than cars, and there are even a couple of spots to cool off for a dip along the way …”

Mountain Biking

Kenji diving

20

Hobbies other than Cycling

The Charm of Living in Taitung

We’ve talked a lot about cycling, but I know you have a number of other passions. What do you enjoy doing when you’re not riding?

“W here to beg in ….. Dif ferent sea sons of fer different outdoors opportunities here in Taitung, and I try to work with nature on these, so cycling in the fall, w inter and spring, surf ing when the waves are good, kayaking, river-tracing and standup paddleboarding in the summer. And then diving when the chance presents itself …. But I can’t really talk about my passions w ithout mentioning my animals – I love my cats and dogs and also enjoy looking after friends pets when they go away, plus the local neighbourhood menagerie.”

And to round off, what is it that appeals to you most about living in Taitung County?

“First of all the environment – it’s clean, beautiful and tranquil here in Chenggong and I can do all of my favorite sports just a short distance from my house. Secondly, the people – not only are the local A mis people warm and f r iendly, they also seek to protect this beautiful land and I have enjoyed supporting them in their mission and participating in all k inds of local activ ities (even a slingshot competition!) Many of the people who have chosen to reloc ate to Tait ung have done so for qua lit y of life reasons, and so there is also a diverse and welcoming foreign community which I enjoy being a part of.”

日 本 に い た 時 は 都 会 で 仕 事 に 明 け 暮 れ 、 休 み を と る た び に 海 外 に ス キ ュ ー バ ダ イ ビ ン グ 旅 行 に 出 か け て ま し た。 台 北 に 移 り 住 ん で か ら は 自 転 車 関 係 の 仕 事 に 関 わ る 機 会 が あ り 、 そ れ 以 降 自 転 車 に 携 わ る こ と に な り ま し た。 週 末 に なる度に仲間たちと陽明 山 に 走 り に 行 っ た り 、 何 度 か環 台 で 台 湾 の 色 々 な 場 所 を 訪 れ ま し た 。 私は自転車で島一周 ( 環島 ) を 6 回完走しましたがゆっくりと現実の生活を体験し、この美しい島を見る最良の方 法 だ と 思 い ま す。 ま た 、 自 分 の 「 エ ン ジ ン 」 を 使 っ て 島 を 一 周 す る こ と に は 特 別 な も の が あ り 、 同 じ よ う に 環 島 し てる他のサイクリストに 出 会 っ た 時 の 共 有 体 験 、 そ し て 9 、 10 日 間 毎 日 一 日 中 乗 る こ と で 瞑 想 的 な 効 果 が 得 ら れ 、 自分自身を本当に知るこ と が で き ま す 。 波の音を聴きながら眺め の 良 い 海 沿 い の 道 を 走 っ た り 、動 物 や 虫 の 声 を 聞 き な が ら 緑 多 い 山 道 を 走 っ た 時 の 充 実 感 。 そして、車や人ご みの 中 を 走 る 都 会 と は 違 い 田 舎 道 は 人 や 車 と す れ 違 う こ と も 少 な く ゆ っ く り と 時 間 を 過 ご せ て 独 り 占 め し た 道 を 走 っ た よ う な 満 足 感 を 味 わ え る 自 転 車 で 走 れ る 環 境。 そ れ ら が 台 東 に 移 住 す る 理 由 の 一 つ に な り ま し た。 私 は 台 北 に 住 ん で い た 頃 は 日 本 が 恋 し か っ た で す が 、 台 東 に 来 て か ら は 「 故 郷 」 の こ と を ほ と ん ど 考 え な く なりました。

中文摘要 Abstract

Road Biking USA

21

Taitung Experiences

So Many Ways to Have Fun I

n 2020, the Taitung County Government launched the “Cross-generational Bilingual Training Program” to develop in-depth travel experiences in Taitung for international visitors. Through workshops and training programs, participants throughout Taitung learn how to create attractive itineraries and introduce their communities in English.

1

The Association of South-Link Health Care Promotion for Taitung County

2

Hani Art Studio 哈匿藝術工作室

3

Fugang Community Development Association 富岡社區發展協會

4

Amis Kakeng Music Group Amis 旮亙樂團

5

Uninang Multicultural Workshop 烏尼囊多元文化工作坊

南迴健康促進關懷協會

Changbin

Chenggong Chishang

Haiduan

Guanshan

Yanping

Luye

5 4

Beinan

3

Donghe

2

Taitung City Green Island

Jinfeng

Taimali

1 Daren

Dawu Orchid Island

22

1

Tuban Community and Paiwan Culture

The Association of South-Link Health Care Promotion for Taitung County 南迴健康促進關懷協會

Tuban is an indigenous Paiwan community. Here, you can admire the first church in Taitung that combines the cultural imagery of the Paiwan with Western beliefs. You’ll learn about the woodcarving crafts of the Paiwan, and visit the ancestral spirit house under the chieftain's leadership. At the end you’ll experience picking Paiwan traditional vegetables and enjoy traditional dishes that are cooked together.

2

Website

The ceramic art of the Amis

Hani Art Studio 哈匿藝術工作室 According to tradition, Amis pottery is simple hand-building and uses the clay found nearby. In the olden days, only women made pottery, and they did it in spring, but now at the Hani Art Studio everyone can learn to make Amis pottery and let their creativity run wild, immersed in clay.

23

Facebook

Taitung Experiences

3

Fugang Geopark and Fishing Harbor Tour

Fugang Community Development Association 富岡社區發展協會 Tectonic movement and marine erosion have turned the coastline here into nature’s own sculpture park. On this tour, you’ll see spectacular rock formations, unique inverted topography and highly specialized f lora that manages to grow here. At eight o’clock every morning, there is a fish auction at nearby Fugang Harbor. You will get to see all kinds of fish, observe how the auction is carried out, and enjoy the lively atmosphere.

4

Facebook

Experience the Amis culture

Amis Kakeng Music Group Amis 旮亙樂團 Kakeng is a bamboo instrument Amis use to announce weddings. The Amis Kakeng music group performs A mis folk songs about A mis culture w ith more than thir t y traditional bamboo instruments. In Amis Folk center, you can have a taste of Amis’ culture: the traditional architecture, the music, and the delicious food. You’ll experience a bamboo cannon, which is from Dianguang Community in Taitung, visit a traditional Amis house and the priest’s house. In the end you may try out instruments, such as the Kakeng, the xylophone, different kinds of bamboo drums, and shakers.

24

Facebook

5

Bunun Indigenous Cuisine

Uninang Multicultural Workshop 烏尼囊多元文化工作坊 Located in Yongkang Community the indigenous Bunun tribe have established the Uninang Multicultural Workshop. In the Bunun language, uninang means gratitude and blessing. So, when you want to say thank you, just say, “uninang”. At the workshop you can learn about hunting and Bunun indigenous cuisine. On their Hunting Trail Experience techniques like the stone slab trap and archery and spear-throwing will be taught. You will also have the chance to try traditional indigenous cuisine. During the meal, they’ll sing Bunun songs and though you might not be able to understand the lyrics, you can still feel the story behind them through the rhythm.

25

Facebook

Bilingual Shops

Unique and Friendly Businesses Designed to help non-Chinese speakers to experience local culture in Taitung, in this section we highlight bilingual businesses around the county that are ready, willing, and able to welcome international visitors.

1

Grandma Feng’s INN 鳳奶客棧

Located nearby King Kong Avenue in Changbin, one of the most beautiful roadways in Taiwan. You won't want to miss an early morning walk as the sun rises. Make sure to experience the Amis' hunting and cooking culture while staying in Grandma Feng's INN. Quadruple room, female dorm, male dorm

No.20,Siwei Road, Changbin Township, Taitung County 962 , Taiwan +886-905-909506 Reservations required

2

Treasure Sea & Town 藏濱有限公司

Treasure Sea & Town, a 40 - year - old aquatic products brand in Taitung, sells premium white shrimp and Taiwan abalones.

Whiteleg shrimp, giant grouper, Abalone

No.52, Changbin boundary bridge, Taitung County 962 , Taiwan +886-89-801256 08:00-12:00 14:00-18:00

3

Fudin Café 浮定咖啡

Fudin Café is a famous gourmet cafe in Chenggong Town, Taitung. You can have a drink and chill here, or if you're interested in water activities, they also provide kayaking, SUP, and river tracing experiences.

Amis cuisine, BBQ, water sports

No. 186-3, Zhitian Rd., Chenggong Township, Taitung County, 961, Taiwan +886-933-658935 11:00-21:00

26

4

Monkey Rice 泰源幽谷獼米

Using a combination of A mis traditional methods and eco -f r iend ly fa r ming. Monkey R ice is pla nted in t he beautiful, clean Mawuku valley surrounded by nature.

Rice, Abai(Millet Dumplings)

No. 63, Pasture, Taiyuan Village, Donghe Township, Taitung County 959 , Taiwan

Mon-Fri 09:00-17:00

5

Qiao Ben Wei Vegetarian Restaurant

Qiao Ben Wei is a vegetarian restaurant serving locally sourced organic dishes like seaweed rice rolls, curry rice, braised stinky tofu, and even herbal medicinal cuisine made with world-renowned Chishang rice.

巧本味蔬食人文料理

Toon, Seaweed rice rolls

No. 102, Jingxiu Rd., Chishang Township, Taitung County 958, Taiwan +886-89-865871 11:30-14:00, 17:00-19:30 Closed on Mon. and Thu.

6

Zhengyi Tea Farm and Mama Fu’s Kitchen

Zhengyi Tea Farm is a tea farm and processing factory in Luye, Taitung. The principal, Mrs Fu, observed that there weren’t any other convenient places to eat nearby, and so decided to open a restaurant showcasing the fragrance of their red oolong tea as well as the natural f lavors of the ingredients.

正一茶園傅姐風味餐

Olong tea cuisine No. 588, Yong'an Rd., Luye Township, Taitung County 955, Taiwan +886 89-551818 11:00-14:30, 17:00-20:00

7

Paiwan-Bunun Crossover Kitchen

The kitchen is set up in a Bunun village, but the chef is a Paiwan woman, Kiuwa, who is proficient in plants. She integrates the traditions from her hometow n into the cooking to create delicious dishes that combine Paiwan and Bunun elements. K iuwa a lso designs interest ing hands-on activities.

蕎仁美部落廚房

Pigeon pea soup, fried mulberry leaf No. 174, Taoyuan Vil., Shengping Rd.,Yanping Township, Taitung County 953, Taiwan +886- 912-700110 Tue.-Sat. 09:00-17:00

27

Bilingual Shops 8

HANSHE TEA HOUSE 寒舍山莊茶坊

Hanshe Tea House is an atmospheric spot to chill out with friends, enjoy tea and snacks and soak up the nightscape of Taitung in the distance.

The night scene of Taitung city. Tea. Antique.

No. 1-9, 29th Neighborhood, Dingyanwan, Binlang Village, Beinan Township, Taitung County 954,Taiwan +886-89-229977 17:00-01:00

9

Eastern Medicinal Herbs 東方草藥舖

This well-known brand was founded in 1953 and has been selling healthy herbal tea in Taitung ever since. They insist on using pure and simple ingredients to make the most natural and healthy herbal tea.

Herbal Tea

No. 1, Ln. 298, Zhengqi Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County 950,Taiwan +886-89-332156 09:00-23:00

10

Chang’s Oyster Noodles 客來吃樂

Chang’s Oyster Noodles, the f irst oyster noodle stand in Taitung, has been ser ving oyster and pork intestine noodles for over 40 years.

Oyster and pork intestine noodles, sweet mung bean soup

No. 218, Xinsheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County 950, Taiwan +886-89-343096 10:00-20:00

11

Lin-Jia Dumplings 鄰家蒸餃

L in- Jia Dumplings of fers ha nd made dumplings. The dumplings here are cooked for immediate consumption only, so that customers can have the freshest steamed dumplings.

Fresh steamed dumplings No. 48, Zhongzheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County 950,Taiwan +886-89-333020 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:30 Closed on Wednesdays

28

12

Wild Veggie Queen 野菜皇后

Founded by seven indigenous women who traveled the island to learn about the vegetables used across the tribes of Taiwan, Wild Veggie Queen offers boxes filled with wild greens and soaps made with wild vegetables.

Wild vegetables, Handmade soap

1F., No. 33, Xinzhan St., Taitung City, Taitung County 950, Taiwan +886-89-221679 Mon.-Fri. 10:00-18:00

13

Yinghui Indigenous Art Workshop

T h i s si mple B & B of fer s c oz y ac c om mo d at ion i n t he pic t u re sque v i l la ge of Ji n lu n. Here you c a n se e t he beautiful view with cherry blossoms in winter and smell the fragrance of the cof fee, and there are hot springs nearby.

英惠原藝工作坊

Accommodation services, Roasted coffee and handcrafts DIY No.9-6, 14th Neighborhood, Jinlun Village, Taimali Township, Taitung County 963, Taiwan +886-89-771277 24hr

14

Sauniyau Bake Shop 少妮媱手工烘焙坊

Sauniyau Bake Shop offers cakes and desserts made with local produce in Taitung, such as red quinoa, millet, and pigeon pea, etc.

Focaccia with prickly ashes, lemon tart with Pigeon pea powder, dessert with millet No.18-2, 2nd Neighborhood, Liqiu, Jinfeng Township, Taitung County 964005, Taiwan +886-988-896059 Wed.-Sat.10:00-18:00, Sun.12:00-18:00

Taitung’s growing number of bilingual venues means that there are now fewer barriers to exploring this county’s diverse cultural experiences and natural wonders.

29

Made in Taitung

Great Local Shops Our contributing authors share their recommendations for local specialty shops in Taitung, from snacks to crafts.

Amui Coconut Oil Massage Amui Coconut Oil Massage is our favorite destressing/ muscle rela x ing treat. Our f r iend, A mui, a Dulan indigenous local, really applies her focus and heart on her craft and her workspace is deservedly popular.

Recommended by Jennie Miller

30

Instagram

Atolan Atolan is a great little shop that sells local crafts and promotes awareness of indigenous culture and natural products. I wholly support people being educated on how to appreciate what the earth gives us locally and bountifully.

Website Recommended by Jennie Miller

Guozhen Nong A tiny little shop in the heart of Taitung. Pay NT$60, and seemingly seconds later your multi-colored drink will appear. Pink and brown pearls give way to Chulu milk, pineapple and, topping it all off, dragonfruit.

Shake the cup to wake the drink and the whole thing turns deep dragonfruit magenta. Too good!

Website

Recommended by Kenji Sugata Photo by mineshine

Ata Beads On the edge of tow n at the old Sugar Factor y, Ata Beads makes beautiful multi-colored glass qata beads.

Qata is the Paiwan word for decorated beads, and every design has its own specific cultural meaning. Of course you could just buy a piece of jewelry here, but making your own glass bead is recommended.

Recommended by Simon Foster

31

Instagram

Useful Information

Start Your Taitung Journey Bilingual Websites

Hello Taitung

Taitung Taidong 台東 , Taiwan Group

Facebook page managed by the International Development & Planning Department of the Taitung County Government.

Facebook group for people who live or have lived in Taitung, Taiwan.

News, upcoming events, and other information

News, upcoming events, stores offering bilingual services, in-depth bilingual experiences, international reception teams

Taitung Travel Website

Discover Taitung

Official website managed by the Tourism Department of the Taitung County Government.

Official website managed by the International Development & Planning Department of the Taitung County Government.

Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation

Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation

APP&Transportation

Taitung Travel App

Taiwan Bus Tracker ( 臺灣等公車 )

Official app managed by the Tourism Department of the Taitung County Government.

Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation

iOS

iOS

Android

32

Android

E-newsletter

Free WIFI

Taitung Times

TTFREE

In-depth reporting, upcoming events

Stay connected in Taitung with Free WIFI

Emergency Telephone Numbers

110

119

Police Station

Fire Department

Pedestrian Protection: Stop & Let Them Walk Stop Stop

1999

County Service Center

The Taitung County Government has collaborated with Crossroads ( 社團法人台灣全球連結發展協會 ) to launch TTNomads - a platform to attract digital nomads and travelers, connect them with local businesses, and boost economic development in Taitung County.

Local stakeholders wanting to connect with new customers, or anybody wishing to meet new friends in Taitung of all nationalities and walks of life are welcome to join TTNomads. Click on the URL or scan the QR codes below to visit the platform and register a free account.

Install the Circle Communities App

Platform URL

Apple Store

Hello Taitung is seeking writers If you are an expat living in Taitung and interested in sharing your experience and encouraging others to think about making Taitung their home or long-stay holiday destination, please e-mail us at cocreate.taitung@gmail.com.

Google Play

The definitive guide to life in Taitung

ISSN 2789-2174