4 minute read
Finding Inner Peace Between Green Hills and Blue Ocean
by Steven Crook
As Taiwan’s most spacious county, Taitung is a splendid place for those who wish to loosen up and slow down. There are countless spots along the coast and in the verdant interior where an introspective individual in search of solitude can find peace and chill out.
By Steven Crook
writer, and consultant
As a frequent visitor to Taitung, I have my own cherished retreats. The seaside south of Nantian, very close to the border with Pingtung County, is one such haven. Along the Southern Cross-Island Highway — the high-altitude road that connects Taitung with the western half of Taiwan — there are several scenic points where I’ve turned off my motorcycle’s engine, gazed out at the surrounding mountains, and felt a refreshing emptiness. Hardly anyone lives on the inland-facing slopes of the Coastal Mountain Range, but the views are intoxicating. If you drive up Songlin Industry Road (Local Road No. 40) or Road No. 197 (part of which is unsurfaced, be warned), you’ll see what I mean.
For all four of this issue’s contributors, the ease with which a person can “Chill in Taitung” is a key reason why they’ve chosen to live here. But let’s make one thing clear: They’re not even close to being hermits. They all engage with local society in different ways and at different levels.
Kevin Brazier sells bread and kombucha to local residents, but they’re just as likely to meet him when he’s practicing martial arts beside Chishang’s Dapo Pond. When he’s not playing with local indigenous musicians, Viktor Schramek performs to audiences all over Taiwan and beyond. For Enan Wang, tea is the medium through which he communicates his ideas with others, showing them how it can bring inner peace. When she’s not taking or developing photos, much of Stella Grasso’s time has been spent interacting with sailing-school students and tourists enjoying vegan food at her cafe.
“Chilling” means different things to different people. For many of us, it couldn’t be more straightforward. To kick back and unwind, all we need is a comfy sofa and a good book, or a few friends and something to drink. Others say that’s a recipe for slacking, and prefer structured activities. Each to their own…
The guest writers featured in this issue of Hello Taitung all have their favorite ways to relax. As Kevin explains in our cover story, in Chishang he’s found a setting in which he can refine and elevate his kung fu practice, a discipline he’s been following since the 1980s. He isn’t, of course, the first to comment on the wonderful tranquility of Taitung, where he falls asleep to a “nightly symphony of insects and frogs.”
Having turned his back on a high-pressure professional career in Berlin, Enan now values both the fact he need never wear formal clothes, and the proximity of the Pacific Ocean, the sight of which he and his wife find profoundly calming. As he continues his deep dive into the world of tea, he finds Taitung the perfect place to explore its restorative and recuperative powers.
Comparing Taitung’s power of attraction to that of a magnet, Viktor takes pleasure in a cup of locallygrown tea or cooking wild vegetables his Amis friends have taught him to recognize. Like every outsider who successfully settles far from where they grew up, he’s deeply sensitive to the cultures and traditions of his neighbors.
Describing the many outdoor activities she enjoys in Dulan, from sailing to surfing to running, Stella asks if she could ever give up such exhilarating pleasures — and ponders if similarities between Taitung and her native Sicily are part of the reason why this part of the world enraptures her like no other.
Perhaps this is the first time you’ve picked up Hello Taitung and you’re wondering why, out of the 200,000-plus people who live in Taitung County, we’re shining our spotlight on these four expatriates. This magazine, which is supported by the Taitung County Government, exists to tell the stories of outsiders who’ve settled down in southeastern Taiwan. Whether they’re drawn by the region’s stunning natural environment, the friendliness of local people, the fascinating blend of cultures (seven indigenous tribes, as well as Han people of Hoklo, Hakka, and mainlander descent), or all of the above, such newcomers are bringing skills, creativity, and diversity to Taitung.
If you’re originally from elsewhere but you’ve chosen to make Taitung your long-term home, we’d love to hear from you. In fact, we value feedback of any kind. Whether you think we’re missing a trick, you’ve got a great idea for a future theme, or you just want to pay us a compliment, drop us a line or post a comment on the Hello Taitung Facebook page.
