Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food n.139

year 22 - number 139 - may 2020 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

Let's Restart the Right Way IN THE NAME OF MANDURIA

VITICOLTURE: A WORLDWIDE OVERVIEW

TRE BICCHIERI AT SMART PRICES

JAPAN'S HIDDEN GEMS

SOMMARIO year 22 - number 139 - april 2020 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

3 4 9 9  10  12  14  18  20

in the name of manduria WORLD VITICULTURE

MORENO CEDRONI IN 3 DISHES

TRE BICCHIERI SMART PRICED

TRAVEL: JAPAN

28 34 50

Editorial. Wine and the happy eggplant News Wine of the Month Seasonal Cocktail My Import & My Export Gambero Rosso & Friends Top Italian Restaurants: Tokyo 10 wines with great value for money The discreet charm of Manduria From europe to North America. What’s happening in the western world’s viticulture Travel Japan.

Recipes: Moreno Cedroni

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Wine and the happy eggplant “The four men looked at each other. Fatter, older, balding and with a grey beard, they still cast the same shadow of what they had once been. ‘So, shall we play it?’ Asked Garmendia, and the four glasses met in a toast on that rainy night in Santiago.” We salute with his own words Luis Sepulveda, one of the greatest writers of our time that this cursed virus has taken away. And we do it while in Italy we’re preparing, after 60 long days on pause, for a slow return to normality.

“Sometimes wine is the liquid manifestation of silence”, wrote the Chilean author in another of his stories, where wine always represents an element of intimacy and hope, a source of truth in language, “since words are like wine: they need to breathe and enough time for the velvet of the voice to reveal their definitive flavour.” In recent years Luis had focused a lot on achieving happiness, which he identifies with a chain of collective elements, including creating a book together with Carlo Petrini, “An idea of happiness”, published in 2014. The concept behind it is exquisitely South American: we can be alive and happy only if others are too.

“There is no happiness without empathy”, he reiterated strongly in his interviews, a simple concept that we still feel vivid in these days where our health depends on that of others, even thousands of kilometers from our home. Sharing, sustainability and ethics were the three driving engines of his work, combined with the unique ability to listen and tell stories. Stories that were often bathed in wine, to naturally prepare ourselvesto listening and projects us towards each other. Wine is there when you have to celebrate a victory, a degree, an anniversary, a personal achievement, and it’s there is when you have to start over, like in the case of the four old men from Santiago in the book “The Shadow of What We Were”. Well, the time has come for all of us to start over with twice the energy and passion, to restore colour to our work, to return to embrace and look people straight in the eyes, not only via zoom. We return to restore flavour and sounds to our cities, resume love stories, clandestine or not, to fill, even if gradually, wine bars and restaurants because our primary and vital need is to exchange. This is the place for wine.

Which never more than today takes on a particular meaning, with its nature that proceeds with full sails and is charged with symbols and values that it’s up to us to exalt, putting to fruition different points of view and tastes. From this month we inaugurate a series of new sections, given we too will remodel ourselves in the race. We chose to start from the soil, in this case on the cover we have the red and generous soil of Manduria, in Puglia. All we need is a freshly picked eggplant and a glass of wine to be happy and to say forcefully that we are very ready to play.

And to raise to all the challenges that time will give us, even the most difficult.

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NEWS

MADE IN ITALY. THERMOMETER USED IN RESTAURANTS AND PUBLIC BUSINESSES HAILING FROM THE WORLD OF WINE While the images of improbable beach plexiglass changing rooms are circulating online, there are those who seriously wonder about the necessary measures to return to safely while visiting social places, which will have the hardest time dealing with the difficulties of the recovery.

Marco Zorzettig, Friulian wine and beer entrepreneur, came up with a simple and necessary idea tailored for restaurants, bars and public places: a standing thermometer, called TAACfatto, 170 cm high and 35 cm wide, to be installed at the entrance of any public exercise, which detects body temperature of those walking in, granting access only to people whose temperature is below 37.5 degrees Celsius. In this case, a green traffic light goes on, otherwise the technology transmits an acoustic and flashing light signal to the customer and the dining room staff, alerting everyone’s attention. The idea was

born with the intention of supporting HoReCa channel by virtue of the relationship of mutual esteem and convenience between those who produce wine and beer - like Zorzettig - and those who buy them for their local venues.

The instrument, patented as a health protection software, was designed in collaboration with Gimmi Bodigoi, owner of the SBengineering Studio.

The advantages? The thermometere is quick to install and to connect, and does not take up too much space; it also avoids the use of personnel in charge of access control at the entrance to the room. And it does not sell for an exorbitant price: the 2,500 euros of the basic price list can benefit from a tax break (50% deduction) included in the Budget Law 2020, for “safety devices”. And an upgrade for the instrument is already available, provided in the premium version with a turnstile whose opening is

subject to the detection of a suitable temperature. Further accessories available are people counters to keep track of number of customers in the dining room (this too will be essential to better manage return to normalcy), a sound device that integrates an acoustic signal and path-marking devices to channel the flows of people.

TAACfatto has the CE mark, it can be sold all over the world and will be available on the market in three weeks. taacfatto.com

CORONAVIRUS KILLS LUIS SEPÚLVEDA, CHILEAN AUTHOR WHO ALSO WROTE ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY “Living for something” invited readers to rediscover simplicity, underlining the importance of sustainable development, respect for the environment, but also sharing and solidarity. The foundations on which the three authors built their careers and lifestyles: in addition to their love for writing, in fact, they shared a passion for ethics and politics, but above all for ecology. Living for something, for happiness, a word that comes back forcefully in Sepúlveda’s stories, happiness understood as collective well-being, reachable only through respect for others, for the environment that surrounds us, animals to plants. A sense of fulfillment resulting from a life lived to the fullest: “Everything you do for a better world has a starting point, and this starting point is to conquer the right to a full existence. A happy existence, in the fullest sense of the word”.

Writer, screenwriter, director, but also environmentalist, political activist, mostly a narrator, spokesman for the derelict, storyteller of the defeated. Chilean author Luis Sepúlveda passed away at 71, losing a battle against Coronavirus since February.

Born in Ovalle, Chile in ‘49, he left his country after being incarcerated by the regime of Augusto Pinochet. His life was based on the principles of justice, equality, respect, values that are found in all his writings, starting with “The old man who read love novels”, his literary debut dedicated to Chico Mendes, completed after spending seven months in the Amazon rainforest with the Shuar natives. Among the many volumes bearing his signature, in fact, there are a number dedicated to environmental sustainability, a theme very dear to him, who together with Carlo Petrini and José Mujica in the book published in 2017

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NEWS

DINING AFTER THE CORONAVIRUS: DAVIDE OLDANI SPEAKS. THE RESTAURANT OF THE FUTURE IS POP

Davide Oldani (Tre Forchette with his D’O restaurant in Cornaredo, near Milan) is not just any cook: he is rightly considered one of the creative thinking heads of fine dining.

“I think there will be a substantial change, but the way it will transform is something I’ve had in mind for some time. Not an idea for now, rather since I wrote “My Pop kitchen” and I opened D’O in Cornaredo when I sought to understand what the new concept of restaurant should be. First of all remember that without customers we, chefs and restaurateurs, don’t exist: the new course must start from there.

We were living in a bubble that did not make us understand reality:

our old people taught us to save and put projects into practice when the foundations were solid. Instead, over the past few years the slogan of many has been different: “all you need is an idea!” and if there’s no money I’ll do it anyway, not caring if my behaviour puts other people in discomfort. Not paying bills for months without reason is an example of the bad habits that will need to change. I believe that the time has come to brush up and re-read the rules of good manners: washing your hands before going to the table is one of them, sitting with other diners in an adequate number, avoiding excessive number of people at a table to allow the group to enjoy

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the time together talking and enjoying the dishes to the fullest. Then we will have to understood which behaviours will remain permanent after that. What I believe and what I’ve put into practice for years is that we need an ethical approach towards food and people. Eating should be accessible and should produce no waste, a message that became truly universal after the 2015 Expo.

Erudite cuisine, in which stories are told (and if we don’t understand them, we’re not ready to consume it) will no longer exist. What could have once been considered a futurist idea, like my Pop cuisine, has proved today to be the actual way to approach the future.”

NEWS

BAROLO. FAMILY-RUN AND SUSTAINABLE: 9 WINERIES GIVING LIFE TO THE DEDITUS BRAND

Deditus is the new association bringing together nine historical families that produce the king of Piedmontese wines: Azelia, Cordero di Montezemolo, Luciano Sandrone, Michele Chiarlo, Pio Cesare, Poderi Gianni Gagliardo, Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Prunotto and Vietti. All with their owned vineyards, cultivated di-

rectly in respect of the environment and agricultural sustainability, and all committed to promoting and bringing value to the additional geographical Mega-Mentions, i.e. vineyards officially recognized by the disciplinary which, vinified in purity, represent the multiple souls of Barolo.

“Deditus,” explains President Gianni Gagliardo, “is the result of the commitment and enthusiasm of some of the most famous Barolo producers who have dedicated their lives to wine and to the value of the denomination and its most prestigious Mega wines. Deditus is the brand that identifies a certain way of being Barolo: traditional, family-run and property vineyards”. The first nucleus of Deditus was established towards the end of the 90s to manage the Barolo Auction which, taking place since 1998 in the wine cellars of Poderi Gianni Gagliardo, in La Morra. In 2011, the producers gathered around the Barolo Auction decided to start the Accademia del Barolo. This lasted until 2019, when the Barolo Academy turned into a collective brand, with a mission statement and strict rules for members.

PINOT GRIGIO. FIRST QUARTER UP BY 6.9%: SO FAR NO BACKLASH The future is tied to the fundamental trend of the coming months: “We can’t hide our concern but we do not want to give in to easy pessimism,” adds Armani, who welcomed the government’s measures to guarantee liquidity for businesses as “indispensable for overcome this very serious emergency situation”.

Once Prowein and Vinitaly jumped straight to 2021 and since transport and b2b contacts are reduced to a minimum, Consorzio delle Venezie has found a marketing alternative, relying on well-known faces of wine to field digital tasting and webinars. The goal is to reach buyers, especially in the United States, but also directly reach consumers, to educate them on the meaning of certification and traceability.

Judging by the numbers of the bottlings and certifications, Pinot Grigio’s first quarter doesn’t seem to have been affected by the initial phase of the health emergency and the consequent blocking of activities. The large DOP from Triveneto has brought home data “in line with the seasonal averages of the last two years”. From January to March certifications mark a +6.9% at 511,000 hectoliters. A constant trend, mostly thanks to the widespread distribution in the international large-scale Gdo distribution channel, with exports reaching 95% of volumes to countries whose demand has so far proven positive. But the board of directors chaired by Albino Armani is ready to “intervene with all the tools allowed by law to guarantee the balance between demand and offer, contrasting any speculative tendencies”.

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NEWS

WINE OF THE MONTH

VALPOLICELLA CA’ FIUI 2018 CORTE SANT’ALDA Loc. Fioi, Via Capovilla, 28 Mezzane di Sotto (Verona) www.cortesantalda.com/ Average retail price: 15 euros

Our Wine of the Month is produced by Marinella Camerani who has been managing Corte Sant’Alda in Mezzane di Sotto, in the heart of eastern Valpolicella, for more than three decades.

Considering that the area has been literally overwhelmed by somewhat unexpected success, a lot has changed over the years, especially in terms of environment and traditions. And yet Marinella’s winery has managed to protect a special bond with the territory that developed before the boom, starting with the decision to use biodynamic management and with their ability to give full expression to each single vine. The result is a style that pursues the highest expression of the cultivarterritory bond. Ca’ Fiui is a sunny hillside place where Corte Sant’Alda has set up its cellar. The grape for this wine are Corvina Grossa, Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinara coming from four young vineyards. Fermentation takes place in oak vats and is spontaneous with native yeasts; rack and return, manual wine-crushing, malolactic fermentation and retention of this wine in fermentation vats for at least six months. We love this wine. It expresses great aromatic finesse, with wild fruit merging with Corvina’s signature spicy notes. On the palate it’s sapid, juicy and dynamic, a truly territorial wine made with super quality grapes. It’s definitely an austere, and bloody honest wine.

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“Et però credo che molta felicità sia agli uomini che nascono dove si trovano i vini buoni.”

rgbcomunicazione.it

-Leonardo Da Vinci

Pighin Aziende Agricole in Friuli www.pinotgrigiopighin.com www.pighin.com

SPIRITS

SEASONAL COCKTAIL COCKTAIL SEASONAL

by byPaola Paola Mencarelli Mencarelli

ILLUSION Michele Montauti THE LOFT -Waldorf Astoria - Bangkok 4,5 cl Hendrick’s Gin - 1,5 cl Mathilde Peach Liqueur Pierre Ferrand - 1 cl Homemade Lemongrass Syrup 2,5 cl Clarified Lime Juice - 9 cl Homemade Pandan and Vanilla Soda

Glass: Oaked Chardonnay Technique: Stir and Strain

I

llusion is one of the most successful signature cocktails of the “Art of Cocktails” cocktail list, which draws inspiration from the legendary “The Old Waldorf Astoria Bar Book” written in 1935 by historian Albert Stevens Crockett, a regular visitor of the Waldorf in New York City. The drink has a moderately dry alcoholic shoulder of gin, enriched with peach liqueur - a reference to the Italian soul of Bellini - with a citric and spicy touch of lemongrass syrup and lime juice, the clarification of which reduces the acid side. The final touch is given by homemade soda, made with kitchen scraps of vanilla beans and pandan root, the latter a distinctive feature of Thai food culture.

THE BARMAN: Michele Montauti was born in 1992 in Pescara, where he attended hotel management school with a passion for flair. He walked his first steps behind the counter between his hometown, Padua, Rome and Lake Garda. He then moved to Sidney at Café Courtyard where he worked as Beverage Manager. In 2014 he arrived in Bangkok: initially Head Bartender and Bar Manager at The House on Sathorn, then owner of the Mikys Cocktail Bar in partnership with Opus Italian Wine Bar & Restaurant. He is currently Head Bartender and Bar Manager of Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, as well as Supervisor for the two exclusive The Loft and Champagne Bar outlets, recognized among the best in the city by The Bar Awards Bangkok 2019.

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NEWS

MY IMPORT GIANCARLO DE CESARE – Italasia Group: "Importing wine into Thailand?

350% taxes, the most expensive in the world" Stuck in his Phuket for almost two months – an unusual Phuket without tourists, and hotels and airports closed until the end of May and a night curfew – Giancarlo de Cesare is at the head of Italasia Group, one of the most important import and distribution groups in the country.

1 Can you profile your company?

Pre-Covid our turnover was about 45 million euro. I have about 350 collaborators, we have several departments for the distribution of wines, coffee, water, and equipment for restaurants and hotels. The Italian brands are 70% of my business. In regards to wine, I deal 30 brands and 350 Italian labels. The main market is Thailand.

2 The most popular brand sold?

Overall it’s Prosecco, but the brand that sells the most is Antinori followed by the Allegrini group because they cover so many areas. Over here if you add up all the taxes on wine, the excise duty, the heathly tax, the import duty, the municipality tax, we hit a total of 350% in taxes. Yes, the most expensive in the world. It especially penalizes the low tier, which ranges from 4 to 10 euros.

3 What’s the current situation?

Very important measures have been taken here in Thailand even with low infection numbers, there is a curfew here in Phuket from 8 pm to 4 am. It’s been two weeks that we can’t sell alcohol, no wine nor spirits, zero. Both retail and online. It’s all stopped. The alcohol ban and some mobility restrictions should lift on May 3.

4 How do you see the recovery?

The point is the airlines, especially for a country like this where consumption is driven by tourism. I foresee the possibility of returning to 50% of pre-Covid sales and not before November. Now most of the hotels are closed and will remain closed until August, airlines not running, there is no possibility of starting over. There are other factors – like the discomfort and fear of travelling – beyond the openings. And the fear of contagion will go on for a long time. The rebound will be at the beginning of 2021 and in November 2020 I think I we’ll see a 50% increase, but no more than this.

5 What will change on sales methods?

There is certainly a significant move towards online retail, on medium and low-end products, while the top products work less.

We will always be loyal to Ho.Re.Ca but we have structured the business for an online store, we will start from coffee and then on platforms such as lazada (Alibaba) or Shope which have 30 million followers here. A lot will be invested in live-streaming with key opinion leaders, by their popularity and followers. Dining will have a significant drop, even here it’s said that 40% of restaurants will not reopen. Consuming wine at home will go a long way.

6 What are the formulas to rise out of this situation?

We will start over next year with regional events and activities, presenting producers as a territory. It was finally understood that there is no competition, but rather that resources and projects can be shared. We will be very supportive of the dining sector, they are our ambassadors. It will be difficult to go back to travelling like we did before, we are talking about medical passports and visas. But I count on the time factor, we have lived through SARS and a Tsunami here, then everything went back to normal and we recovered. You should not be in a hurry and always think with perspective in mind, not on quick openings. Meanwhile, I’m happy to see how producers have started to give importance to new platforms: it took a tragedy to bring WiFi into the barrel room.  Jermann | Loc. Ruttars | Dolegna del Collio (GO) | www.jermann.it

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NEWS

MY EXPORT FELIX JERMANN: “It’s not the end of the world, we’re ready for new challenges” Alojz Felix Jermann is the young face of Jermann wines, the most famous winery in Friuli led by his father Silvio and his brother Michele. He has always traveled a lot, bringing the image and value of the family’s wines around the world.

We met him in Mexico City, on the during the Gambero Rosso event. During a conversation, he told is he ready for negotiating his own path, obviously remaining in the world of wine.

1 What is the percentage of exports out of the company total?

It is 35%. I must say that Italy remains the first market, in recent years it has grown a lot, starting from Milan and Rome, followed by Puglia and Sicily.

2 Where are sales best and where are they the worse. And why?

Germany is number one for us, our prime international market, there are several importers who do a great job. We are strong in the United States too, but my father has always wanted to diversify rather than focus on a single market. Of course Pinot Grigio in the USA sells easily, as does “w dreams”.

3 Do you have a dedicated export manager, how are you set up in that respect?

We are set up according to priorities, my father has travel in his DNA, my brother Michele does too, then we have a person following orders. Few men on the field, but our basis is the quality of the wines, the most important presence. It’s a pleasure to take them abroad.

4 Felix, how do you see the world of wine post-Coronavirus?

First of all, with this virus I immediately singled out the loyal people or not, in these conditions human relationships are and will be increasingly important. In our cellar, we are very active on zoom and on social media to keep the image of our region high. Abroad online sales are for the most part medium-low range wines but I am sure that quality wine, for the companies that have worked on the brand, will never have problems. We will suffer now like in 2008 when everyone canceled our orders. It seemed the end of the world, it was not and it isn’t this time either. We will recover soon. Those playing the price and quantity card will struggle, good wine improves and repays over time.

5 Can you share a particular anecdote related to your experiences abroad?

Well, I have got to see how strong passions are in our sector. Wine brings us all together, we are an extended family, we find peace: it’s a product that brings with it a lot of wisdom. The first time I was in Japan I was squeamish about eating raw fish, but it seemed bad manners to refuse. I forced myself and now I am a great lover of raw foods and their culture. I started offering Pinot Grigio and sushi, pizza or Mexican food pairing around the world. If you want to bring our wines around the world, you need to have respect, know and study the cuisines, think about what flavours we can associate our wines with. In this way I approached many people that I would never have met and now I have friends all over the world. Above all I keep an open and flexible mind. Yes, I’m ready for a new challenge!  Jermann | Loc. Ruttars | Dolegna del Collio (GO) | www.jermann.it

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Gambero Rosso & Friends

Madeleine Stenwreth STOCKHOLM - Sweden

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

Stockholm Sweden

THE BOOM OF BAG IN BOX WINE (+40%), FOCUS ON A LOW IMPACT WINE, AND THE NEED TO REVISE THE EUROPEAN LABEL LAW. Candid, direct and solar. Madeleine Stenwreth is one of the most competent people we’ve met in the world of wine, she combines sensitivity in tasting, empathy and a truly rare ability to listen and relate with others. Especially in his world, the inner circle of the Masters of Wine. She has a free approach and an exquisitely global vision. We reached out to her during quarantine in her home in the woods on the outskirts of Stockholm.

How has your work changed?

At the beginning I had a very hard time accepting the situation, I always travelled a lot, to visit producers, to meet them in person, to inspire and communicate, to take courses and look my students in the face. In a short time everything blew up and I couldn’t do any of that online. Of course, we have learned that with zoom and other platforms we can get in touch more easily, we will continue to use them effectively, but our industry is based on interpersonal relationships. I think of the work of importers. In order to put my wine, my image and my business in your hands I need to know you well. To create a bond I have to meet you in person. And if you want to win a monopoly tender, you have to equip yourself first, you have to create an ad hoc cuvée, you have to compare and put everything in discussion. All things that are done at the workplace, between the vineyard and the cellar.

What do you think of all these live broadcasts and e-tastings?

It’s a good opportunity only if in addition to being a good journalist you are also an entertainer. Now everyone is doing the same thing, if I open instagram I have 50 lives going on at the same time, everyone interviewing everyone. We’re already wasting so much time on the phone, who is actually listening to all these live streams? Fernando Mora in Spain was among the first to launch in this aspect, and he created a serious, targeted calendar. The important thing is to understand who your audience is, know the technical level, speak the language, whether it’s a study subject or just for a chat. Nobody specifies this, I only see appointments with the interviewee’s name. It takes strategy.

GAMBERO ROSSO

What’s happening in Sweden? What will influence sales?

I start with a striking fact. Sales of bag in box wine have increased by 40% in just one month, people are drinking a lot and quality is not their first choice. Unfortunately, cases of domestic violence are also increasing. People drink more because they are desperate, not surprisingly Champagne sales are completely still, because we associate bub-

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ment of happiness. With this crisis we have discovered how important it is to keep our immune system healthy, so we will be increasingly attentive to health. We have gone further, we have plundered the planet and its resources and now we find ourselves fragile. Not only organic or biodynamic wine will be increasingly essential, but also knowing everything about what we are drinking. I believe that we will see a change in the European Union law that today still allows 60/70 adjuvants in wine, this explains the success of natural wines with young people, because even beyond a few flaws, they know that they are putting a healthy drink into their bodies. We would always like to be more certain of this, reading everything on the label, I imagine a new category: a low impact wine, on the body and on the planet.

Are you able to drink with gusto during quarantine?

I drink wine every night, I need something nice to look forward to during the day. I don’t want to waste time, so if I don’t like it, I immediately open another bottle, since I need to feel inspired. I want to think of the person who made that wine, the place, the philosophy, I imagine the vineyard, I escape. In this wine is perfect.

How do you see the recovery? Will online sales continue to boom? What about the ailed dining sector?

Here in Sweden online sales have not increased as much as in the United States or other countries because we have never really been in a real lockdown. It will be very difficult for restaurants to return to the level of pre-Covid wine sales. People have improved a lot in the kitchen and have experienced many excellent bottles by paying a fourth of what they do in restaurants. Here restaurants also tend to mark-up by 800%, alcohol sales pay for staff wages. With the price of a good bottle we can buy a round trip ticket to London, as an example. Will we accept those markups now? Sommeliers will have to perform super research work, give even more personality to the wine list to present something new and original. I see two directions in which consumptions will go, one, a growth of low budget wine because people will have less money; two, those who have money will spend even more for important bottles. We realized that time flies, we don’t know when the next virus will hit, we look at the important bottles in the cellar impatiently. What am I waiting for? Now is the time!

The great thing about having a history is keep writing its future.

For our 150th anniversary we have brought together our principles in the Zeni Method 1870: our way of celebrating the past, our way of imagining the future.

Zeni Method 1870 was born from the history of the Zeni brand and was codified on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the winery. A century and a half, 5 generations and 5 pillars support the Zeni Method 1870: the biodiversity cultivated in the vineyard, the quality pursued with innovation in the cellar, the value of the Cru set by Nino Zeni, the dissemination of wine culture, the active role of the family. Five beliefs that have brought us this far and that will accompany us in every future evolution, accepting the challenge to grow while remaining true to ourselves.

Zeni 1870 - Araldo + Logo - Colore

APRIL 2020

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN TOKYO

ETRUSCHI

IL RISTORANTE LUCA FANTIN

ICARO

3-15-13 Minami Aoyama

2-7-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku - Tokyo

2 Chome-44; Kamimeguro, Meguro

+81 0334707473

+81 363620555

- Tokyo - +81 357248085

etruschi.jp/

bulgarihotels.com/

Average Price: ¥ 10,000

Average Price: ¥ 8000.0

Average Price: ¥ 17,000

The deep care and study

Tokyo can easily surprises you.

Ten years of great authorial cook-

of the italian cuisine by the

There’s always a small city into a city.

ery. Luca Fantin, in his Ginza head-

Japanese chefs has only

That’s what we were thinking when

quarters, built Asia’s most solid

a few equals around the world. A great

we reached this elegant restaurant in

Italian creative cuisine, blending

example lays in the work of Yoshitaka

the relaxed atmosphere of Omotesando

exceptional local ingredients and the

Miyamoto, five minutes away from the

district. In our last visit we had a very good

seasons. Sensitivity and flavours are in-

Nakameguro station. They learnt the

risotto with white truffle. The service is ex-

tertwined to perfection, masterful hand

cooking techniques in Italy, to revive a

tremely professional and friendly, while the

on smoking, meat cuts, details that make

very solid traditional style, made of au-

super extensive wine list has also a Tuscan

the difference are: service temperatures,

thentic flavours and typical recipes from

soul. The attention to to the finest details

cooking methods, fragrances, the man-

the north of Italy. The consistencies of

guarantee a very high quality experience.

agement of the savoury and spicy ele-

the pasta dishes are simply perfect, as

Surgiva Taste & Design Award 2020.

ments. The monograno Felicetti spaghetti

well as toppings and sauces, from the

with sea urchins is a thrill, as well as the ri-

pappardelle alla lepre, to the gnocchi al

sotto with chestnuts and Parmigiano Reg-

ragù, to the delicious tortellini in brodo;

giano Vacche Rosse: very difficult to find a

not to mention boars and lambs, charm-

risotto of this level in the great restaurants

ingly and tastefully served. An essential

of Italy.. For us this is the Restaurant of the

cuisine, simple but perfectly balanced,

Year and the highest experience of Italian

to enjoy in an intimate atmosphere, be-

author cuisine outside national borders.

tween wooden tables and historic and

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

up-coming wine labels to uncork under the responsibility of Munetaka Miyamoto who displays a deep passion for Italian vignerons.

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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

If you’re a foodies, Tokyo should always be in your wish list. Merit for this also goes to those Italian restaurants that could rise above the rest even in Rome or Milan. The attention to detail, striving to perfection and an unrivalled gastronomic acuteness characterised some of the most memorable dining experiences we had during our travels. Plus, if you love Neapolitan-style pizza, you’re in the right place. Check our likst and choose carefully.

NAPOLI STA CA’

INCANTO

1-11-4 Azabudai, Minato - Tokyo

Minato, Minamiazabu, 4 Chome -

+81 364591846 napolistaca.jp/

Tokyo +81 3-3473-0567

Average Price: ¥ 4,000

If you love Italian wine, you love

Close your eyes and in a

Incanto which is at the same

second you can erase the

time a lovely wine bar (from

9,844

separate

6pm to 10pm) and a refined

Tokyo from Naples. Peppe Ericchiello’s

restaurant. Here, we’re at Hiroo – Ten-

Margherita is the best example of the

genbashi, you’ll find a proper selection of

level reached by Italian pizza abroad: the

Italia classic labels, all the big names are

dough is majestic, the flavours blend into

also served by the glass, covering all the

a single bite of extraordinary pleasant-

regions of Italy and a huge amount of

ness, soft and airy, with the incisive taste

native grape varieties. The atmosphere

of mozzarella and the delicacy of the to-

is elegant, warm and relaxing, seat at the

mato. In short, a pie that would be con-

counter and forget about work. And then

sidered excellent even in Naples. Behind

enjoy of of the most traditional and solid

this result there’s the story of a boy who

traditional cuisine in Tokyo, with a fixed

worked hard, bit the bullet and who is

menu well focused on regional dishes

now getting his due acclaim. There are

which display a deep knoweldge and re-

two branches in town, the kitchen is also

searche about our food culture.

km

that

very good.

GAMBERO ROSSO

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APRIL 2020

THE PIZZA BAR ON 38TH 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi Chuo-ku - Tokyo +81 332708188 www.mandarinoriental.com/ Average Price: ¥ 4000.0

A nice surprise and totally worth going up to the 38th

floor of the Mandarin Oriental in Tokyo. Here Daniele Cason prepares an excellent pizza slab, to enjoy seated at the beautiful marble counter and comfortable red chairs (eight seats in all). Quality organic flours imported from Italy, high hydration and 48-hour leavening for an airy and fragrant dough. We recommend the bufala, or the pizza with tomato and anchovies (among the optional add-ons also culatello di Zibello). Fine wine list, also poured by the glass, and meal endings that close with a good seasonal sorbet.

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN TOKYO

TRATTORIA DEI PAESANI

BAR & ENOTECA IMPLICITO

Shinjuku - Tokyo

4-6-3-1F Higashi, Shibuya-ku -

+81 364573616

Tokyo +81 3 5774 4433

Average Price: ¥ 7,000

Average Price: ¥ 4,000

One should not be surprised to read “sfugliatelle nghe la crema”

drinks excl.

This is our favorite Italian wine bar

on the menu of Giuseppe Sabati-

in Tokyo. The entrance is like that

no’s restaurant, which he started when he

of a classic wine bar, but inside,

was very young to take his Italian flavours

meticulous Japanese attention to detail

abroad. Defining his Dai Paesani an Ital-

and research in the selection of the Ital-

ian restaurant is too limiting. His is rather

ian wines is evident. About twenty wines

an Abruzzo restaurant, as evident by the

by the glass are listed, many of them real

bilingual Abruzzo/Japanese menu. Ev-

gems – the owners have a passion for

erything here speaks of Giuseppe’s native

small producers and natural wines. Plates

region, which is present in the furniture,

of cured meats and cheeses are on hand,

knick-knacks, books and above all in the

and downstairs, guests can sit down for a

flavours. The garlic is from the variety of

traditional dinner. Italian producers often

Sulmona, the asparagus comes from Cas-

show up to present their wines.

telguidone, the sweet peppers from Altino,

HEINZ BECK Nissei Marunouchi Garden Tower 1-1-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo +81 332840030 www.heinzbeck.jp/ Average Price: ¥ 13,000

Having tried all the Heinz Beck restaurants abroad, we can confirm that the Tokyo branch is certainly the best for complexity and

nuances of flavours, thanks also to crazy good ingredients. We salute chef Giuseppe Molaro, who has returned to Italy with a project of his own after having done an excellent job, and we welcome Carmine Amarante, also from Campania, who immediately gave proof of his talent in the kitchen. The classic Heinz Beck fagottelli stuffed with carbonara were exactly as good as those tasted at

not to mention the cured meats, which a

La Pergola in Rome. Among the dishes

lot is owed to, since the meeting with Da-

of the two tasting menus we highly rec-

vide Fabiano, chef and partner, took place

ommend the ravioli with pork, smoked

thanks to the ventricina made in Japan.

potato and oxidised onion sauce, as well

Do not forget the liver sausage, the Callara

as the pigeon breast with chestnuts and

style lamb, the pasta and, of course, the

pomegranate. Sweets, needless to say,

cured meats. The service is warm and the

are fantastic, so leave adequate room.

wine list speaks of the owner’s passion for

Perfectly fused aesthetics and taste. ..

quality and research..

GAMBERO ROSSO

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APRIL 2020

VINI D'ITALIA

10 WINES WITH GREAT VALUE FOR MONEY In our Vini d’Italia guide we have a special section dedicated to the Tre Bicchieri owning the best value for money, i.e. wines whose cellar price never exceeds 10 euros, and in some cases even well below this threshold, costing the end customer an extremely accessible figure considering the quality expressed in the glass. Here's a selection of 10 wines awarded in the 2020 guide that can't be missing from your wine cellar, wines that have everything: character, typicality, elegance and even the surprising ability to age.

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

Lambrusco di Sorbara Paltrinieri Leclisse 2018 Paltrinieri Here at the heart of Cristo di Sorbara, on alluvial soil surrounded by the Secchia and Panaro rivers, lies the best area for cultivating Lambrusco di Sorbara. The 2018 Leclisse is an elegant, pinkhued Sorbara with superb floral aromas, closefocused fruit, savoury, clear, scented and sharp, making for an impeccable interpretation.

What striking drinkability! Thank you, Alberto.

Falanghina del Sannio 2018 Fontanavecchia Libero Rillo makes valuable contributions in Sannio both as a producer and as President of the

local wine consortium. The Falanghina Del Sannio '18 brings together penetrating acidic vigour and a summery character. Intense in its mineral sensations and citrusy nuances of grapefruit, while the palate is supported by a firm acidity and marked salinity, only to close deep and elegant.

Verdicchio di Matelica 2018 Bisci Ten years of work by Mauro Bisci (heir of the founding family) and oenologist Aroldo Bellelli have definitely pulled the company out of the transitional stylistic phase that characterised the start of the new century. Their Verdicchio di Matelica '18 stole the show from its more renowned brothers.

A great year made for a memorable version in terms of transpar-

GAMBERO ROSSO

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APRIL 2020

ency, territorial identity, sapidity and extraordinary drinkability.

Pompeii Bianco 2018 Bosco de’ Medici The winery's vineyards are on the southern part of Vesuvius and extend more than eight hectares, in the heart of the Pompeii archaeological excavation. Here the ancient history of Roman wine intertwines with that of the Florentine Medici dynasty. For the first time the producer takes home the Tre Bicchieri. It's all thanks to their Pompeii '18, a monovarietal white Caprettone that’s rich in personality. On the nose it exhibits mineral sensations supported by aromas of wheat and almonds. Complex and stylish, on the palate it betrays its force and flesh, all set to a slow, extremely long pace

10 WINES WITH GREAT VALUE FOR MONEY

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Rosa-ae 2018 Torre dei Beati Adriana Galasso and Fausto Albanesi's adventure began in 1999 when they both decided to leave their professions to produce wine with vineyards near Loreto Aprutino. Torre dei Beati is among the region’s most top-performing producers, as evident by the impressive range of wines that features an incredible Cerasuolo Rosaae ’18. With floral and red fruit sensations of pomegranate, it reveals typical Montepulciano smokiness and earthy verve on a juicy, spicy palate.

Cesanese di Olevano Romano Silene 2017 Ciolli Damiano Ciolli has become a symbol of Cesanese and of a territory that is often overlooked and misunderstood. Tre Bicchieri for Cesanese di Olevano Romano Silene '17, which exhibits good body played on fruit. Vegetal and undergrowth notes give way to hints of blueberry and mulberry, which capture the fresh, long and pleasant palate. Pair it with amatriciana pasta.

Aglianico del Vulture Gricos 2017 Grifalco

region wholeheartedly. Lorenzo and Andrea now carry on their father's legacy with the same great passion. Their Aglianico del Vulture Gricos '17 takes the gold: its intense, elegant nose is notable for nuances of ripe red berries and tobacco. The same finesse follows on its sapid, harmonious palate with delicate tannins and featuring a big finish.

Barbera d’Asti Lavignone 2018 Pico Maccario The winery founded in the late 1990s by ambitious brothers Pico and Vitaliano Maccario avails itself of a virtually contiguous 70-hectare estate. Here in Mombaruzzo, in the Nizza winemaking zone, we find a proper ‘grand cru’ for Barbera. Among the many interesting options available, once again their Barbera-based reds stand out, starting with their Barbera Lavignone '18. Contoured by fresh aromas of red berry and cooking spices, it boasts a lovely, fruity sweetness and suppleness on the palate.

Best Value for Money Wine in Vini d’Italia 2020.

The story of a winery that fell in love with and will continue to love this

GAMBERO ROSSO

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Chianti Classico Etichetta Bianca 2016 Lamole di Lamole Hallmarks include clear personality and territorial identity — wines that are austere but never banal. The Chianti Classico Etichetta Bianca '16 stands out for its lovely aromatic finesse, with red berries alternating with flowers, hints of grass and flint, adorned by spices. On the palate it does even better, proving sapid, energetic and full of contrast before giving way to a rising finish. What an elegant wine!

Castel del Monte Rosso Vigna Pedale Riserva 2016 Torrevento Francesco Liantonio's Torrevento boasts an impressive park of vineyards. Approximately 250 hectares of owned property mostly within the Parco Rurale della Murgia and on the area’s typically rocky limestone, karsttype soil. The Castel del Monte Rosso Vigna Pedale Riserva ’16 offers up superb notes of black forest fruits and spices, while the palate impresses for its persistence and freshness, proving long and sapid. It’s a Tre Bicchieri — no ifs, ands or buts. Great ageing potential here.

THE DISCREET CHARM OF MANDURIA

Sea urchins, sunshine, masseria farms and lots of wine: a journey on the path of Primitivo

Words by Lorenzo Ruggeri

STORIES

1.

A

fire grill placed in the middle of an eggplant field. We pick up a nice ripe and fat one, carve nice thick slices from it, lay them on the fire. Then we season with good olive oil and garlic. And a bottle of Primitivo di Manduria to keep us company. We are in Masseria Palombara, in Puglia, an organic bio-resort in the countryside of Oria, in the beautiful heart of Salento. Yes, we are particularly attached to this part of Italy, which finally begins to give itself value for what it is, attracting tourists on the hunt for something real and new: so much beauty found without a gps navigator. You’ll get lost in bumpy dirt roads, you’ll forget the highways, you’ll be charmed by the intense colours of this countryside, the red soil, a sea that needs no filters,

exaggerated scent of wild herbs, flavours that know no compromise: real, direct. And that sense of hospitality that is not learned in hotel management school, which is typical of the people of the South. People with a strong and passionate character, such as our host, Angelo Lippolis, owner of the Masseria with his wife Fabiola. When he finds a common passion he is the type to stop the world and talk about it for hours, but he also knows how to understand very well when you just want total privacy. At night we saw him fishing one of his well-seasoned capocolli from the bottom of the well, giddy as a child.

Hanging in the old cisterns are bunches of cherry tomatoes left to dry, a few meters away is the Torre Palombara, an old medieval structure that served as a sighting point, we reach it walking

GAMBERO ROSSO

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APRIL 2020

1. 2. and 3.

Masseria Palombara

THE DISCREET CHARM OF MANDURIA

3.

FOUR DREAMY MASSERIE TO VISIT

2.

through irrigation channels of ancient origin, roughly 2500 years old, Angelo tells us. Decorated with simplicity and taste, with its own restaurant serving local products and an adjoining wine bar, Masseria Palombara is a perfect starting point to savour the territory.

Like so many other local venues, they are gearing up for the re-opening in style after the lockdown. “We are committed to reopen, also to test the business model, to focus on our customers. There is a great need for solidity now, in the kitchen but also in experiences. Of beautiful and true things, beyond fashion, like a well-tailored cashmere overcoat that never goes out of style: the canon of beauty”. And beauty in the territory of Primitivo di Manduria shines brighter. We like to return to Salina dei Monaci often. Located in San Pietro in Bevagna, these are 

thirty hectares of nature reserve in the municipality of Manduria. If you like that penetrating and intoxicating scent of helichrysum, this is a sort of natural sanctuary, it mixes with rosemary, sea lilies and juniper, with ancient plants that sink into the sand dunes. Add the whiffs of the Ionian Sea, and in the lagoon if you’re lucky you’ll also spot the pink flamingos. Sunset overlooks the sea, with Torre Colimena behind us. The entire stretch of coast is nothing short of beautiful and wild, kilometers of beach and very low population density, the area of Campomarino is certainly among the most suggestive, with delicious bars built directly on the beach. In recent years few wine territories, like this one, have grown so much in regards to local businesses, bringing new life to an area that extends across 18 munici-

GAMBERO ROSSO

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APRIL 2020

The light of the stone, dotted with prickly pears and aromatic herbs, flavoured by history. Voilà the masserie of Salento and their magnetic charm. The farmhouses were territorial units entrusted to the conduct of industrious men, called “massari”, from which the term derives. They were born as structures to support an economic system based on the work in the farmlands with constant dedication, and on manpower, with stables destined to welcome animals. Today the m,asserie have been restored and decorated with extraordinary taste. From Masseria Palombara and its rooms immersed in the scents of the Mediterranean scrub, to Masseria Vinilia with the fantastic Casamatta restaurant by chef Pietro Penna. Also Masseria del Sale (in the photo), pampered by a cuisine of true flavours and an enchanting atmosphere thanks to the work of the young Andrea Lippi and Simona Fusco. Finally, if you are going to get married, the atmosphere of Masseria Potenti is a great added value.

Masseria Paolombara www.masseriapalombararesort.com

Masseria Vinilia www.viniliaresort.com

Masseria del Sale www.masseriadelsale.it

Masseria Potenti www.masseriapotenti.it

6.

STORIES

palities between Taranto and Brindisi, for a total of 57 wineries. The primitivo grape, declined in the three denominations Primitivo di Manduria, Riserva and Dolce Naturale, pulled a sprint.

Equally in the cellar, quality has had a great surge, thanks to the arrival of the generations and many new companies that increasingly focus on the characteristics of the individual sub-areas. The colour of the soil here marks the differences, the white and sandy soils, closer to the sea, host numerous vines in piedfranc system, the red soils in the Torricella area with soils marked by iron, the black soils in the area of San Marzano and San Giuseppe, the innermost part of the denomination. Here clay and deeper soils reveal more powerful and often more alcoholic wines. In recent years the way of regarding Primitivo di Manduria has changed, which in the most sought-after selections increasingly ages in large barrels or in cement tanks, as in the case of Primitivo Liri-

ca, a delicious Primitivo di Manduria from the Cantina Produttori di Manduria, which was awarded the Special Prize for Sustainable Vitivinculture in the Vini d’Italia 2020 guide. The cooperative can count on 400 wine-growing members, of the approximately 900 hectares of vineyards, over half are dedicated to the production of primitivo grapes. “For more than a decade the cooperative has been committed to sustainability, all members have been trained to follow strict protocols that take into account all aspects of sustainability, social, economic and environmental”, said Director Giovanni Dimitri, walking amid capasoni (huge terracotta vats where wine aged) and ancient tools of the cellar museum that well narrates the area’s agricultural past. Innovation also comes through rosés that play a whole other game. Standing out among these is the one produced by the Varvaglione family, “Idea,” launched last year and Tre Bicchieri recipient for the first time in 5. Trullo in a winery (photo

by Consorzio di Tutela del Primitivo di Manduria) 6. Idea by Varvaglione 7. Drinking Primitivo 8. e 9. Varvaglione Winery



5.

GAMBERO ROSSO

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APRIL 2020

Consorzio di Tutela del Primitivo di Manduria consorziotutelaprimitivo.com

8

the Vini d’Italia 2020 guide. Subtle, elegant delicate, with great texture and precision on the palate. Two years ago the Varvaglione family also acquired the Masseria Carducci in Leporano, strengthening a very long tradition: an essential and enchanting building from the late 1600s. Inside the huge concrete tanks that are so fashionable today play a starring role. We meet Marzia Varvaglione, the heart and image of the historic winery. “Where would I take a visitor? Well, I would start with sailing a

catamaran in the Gulf of Taranto, enjoying aperitivo with our wines on board. We like to organize picnics in the vineyard or under one of these ancient olive trees, or in the fields among the bales of hay, perhaps with a freshly made mozzarella on the spot.

Tourists want what we want: authenticity, an experience, combining food, wine and culture. And then we could steal way to explore an underground oil mill in Leporano and maybe then a typical taste of Tarantine mussels eaten raw at Par Piccolo”.

With a view of the Aragonese Castle,

THE CONSORTIUM IN FIGURES

57 WINERIES 1,000 ASSOCIATED VINTNERS OVER 4,000 HECTARES PLANTED IN VINES 18 MUNICIPALITIES (between the Taranto and Brindisi provinces) 17 MILLION LITRES PRODUCES 23 MILLION LITRES PRODUCES PRODUCTION IN 2019 + 12% OVER 2018

7.

GAMBERO ROSSO

25

one of the most fascinating and visited structures in the whole of southern Italy, also confirming a new moment that has affected the city and the province of Taranto. The cellars offer ever more complete experiences, like for example Claudio Quarta and his daughter Alessandra who love to combine wine projects with music, art and social commitment events. Always in the name of biodiversity, just visit the garden of the Eméra estate to understand the family’s commitment. There are truly many realities that deserve attention, like the Paolo Leo winery, which has been able to arrive brilliantly with its wines all over the world, thanks to the new generation present in the production and promotion phase. And the attention to detail and no compromise policy of Gianfranco Fino and his wife Simona for wines with a unique charm; the extraordinary battery of Primitivo proposed by producer (and pianist) Gregory Perrucci with his Accademia dei Racemi cellar; plus the wines produced by journalist Bruno Vespa, increasingly fond of Primitivo and those of Masca del Tacco, the company of the Mergè family that is investing heavily in the area. And, again, a garage-like cellar like Antico Palmento, with Gabriele Garofano who lends perfect continuity to the work carried out by his father Bruno, with 

STORIES

9.

5 versions of Primitivo offered in very few bottles. Many changes are under way, summarized by Mauro di Maggio, President of the Primitivo di Manduria Consortium and of Cantine San Marzano. “I think we are just starting to have fun with Primitivo di Manduria, the best is yet to come. That fruit that makes it so sexy and appealing is only the first approach, now we are going far beyond its famous big body. Harvest times have changed, now shortened to seek freshness, as well as the study of soils which are now making a difference”. At the same time, also the area’s white merit attention, starting from Verdeca, a native Pugliese wine with an increasingly centered expression that enhances that delicately herbaceous and aromatic trait, combined with a slight closing minerality. It should only be uncorked in the presence of the freshest sea urchins, those in the Tarantino area which are among the best in Europe.

The last stop on our journey is the town of Manduria, which now is increasingly popular around the world thanks to its bottles: some call it “the Montalcino of the South”. It has something mysterious and fascinating, beautiful and shabby as if looking to hide its actual beauty. Which in the end is the secret of attraction. We get lost in the old Jewish quarter, the mystical atmosphere of the Fonte Pliniano, the beautiful and hidden Chiesa Madre cathedral. We savour the legendary Manduria Cherry Tomato, Slow Food Presidium, with an incredible, excellent and delicate flavour: rain is its worst enemy. 

TRAVELLING VINE Let’s focus for a moment on the history of the primitivo, so called for the early ripening of its berries. A complex path closely linked to migration routes started from Dalmatia and arrived in Puglia. From a crop collection of the Austro-Hungarian Empire the grape landed on the east coast of the United States, to then find his natural habitat in California. The first findings lead to the end of the 18th century near Gioia del Colle: the parish priest Don Francesco Filippo Indelicati identified a variety, with a particularly sweet and fruity taste, which matured early. In 1881 the cuttings arrived as a wedding gift in Manduria, precisely between the dunes of Campomarino a few steps from Torre Colimena and the ancient Salina salt flats. In parallel, the zinfandel arrived in Boston and from there it spread on the west coast. In 1967 Anthony Goheen, Professor at the University of Davis, first became noticed the gustatory assonance between Primitivo and Zinfandel during a trip to Puglia. The turning point in 1994 when Carole Meridith certified the genetic identity between the two vines. The common ancestor hails from Croatia, precisely from Dalmatia, identified as Crljenak Kaštelanski. Today we find examples of zinfandel-primitivo in South America, Mexico, South Africa, even on the Australian west coast. Gregory Perrucci - Accedemia dei Racemi - is the only Italian producer who’s part of the World Zinfandel Association, which has been organizing a highly popular event in San Francisco for the past 30 years.

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trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri 02 SEOUL 02 SEOUL - Korea 02 SEOUL - Korea 02 SEOUL - Korea 02 SEOUL - Korea - Korea

trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW04 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 06 CANADA 04 SHANGHAI 04 SHANGHAI - China SHANGHAI 04- SHANGHAI China 04- China SHANGHAI - Chinatrebicchieri - Chinatrebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri WEB SHOWWEB SHOW trebicchieritrebicchieri WEB BEIJING SHOW06 WEB BEIJING SHOW trebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri trebicchieritrebicchieri 06 - China 06 BEIJING - 06 China BEIJING - 06 China BEIJING - China - China 13 HONG 13 KONG HONG 13 HONG 13 KONG HONG KONG JULYKONG

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26 trebicchieri WEB SHOW

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FROM EUROPE TO NORTH AMERICA. WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE WESTERN WORLD’S VITICULTURE If online sales are booming in Canada and buying alcohol ha become easier in the United States, the United Kingdom is worried about the combined Brexit + Covid-19 effect.

Small Portuguese companies are shaking, while Germany is dealing with lack of seasonal work force

Words by Andrea Gabbrielli

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othing will be like before. Let’s take a look at the West, where we consulted importers, distributors, producers, journalists (in Canada, USA, UK, Germany, etc.) to understand how safety and social distancing measures caused

by Covid-19 impact the various supply chains, from production to sales and consumption channels. Portugal in particular should be mentiones where the prospects for small wineries are not looking good at all. In Italy the situation is very similar. Take as an emblematic case like Pantelleria, where in a confined space away from the mainland, problems are amplified out of proportion and producers are discussing whether it’s preferable to harvest or skip the 2020 vintage altogether. A dramatic discussion, rich in consequences not only from an economic-production point of view, but above all from a social one, which will soon concern the choices of many small continental companies. In the meantime let’s take a look at what happens in the rest of the world.

CANADA, SURGE OF ONLINE SALES Canada is a strategic market for Italian wine where the presence of our products has been consolidated for many years. Sale of alcoholic beverages is under provincial jurisdiction and in Quebec responsibility lies with the Saq (Société des alcools du Québec) owned by the national government.

Alain P. Proteau is the President of Noble Selection, a Montreal-based company that imports wines from around the world and many Italian regions. “In the province of Quebec” he told Tre Bicchieri “the Government has declared that sale of alcoholic beverages is an essential service for the population and, therefore, has kept shops open but with reduced hours and with limited customer attendance. In the past two weeks, Saq has already hired many new employees to solve the question. In addition, the existing “private import channel” will further contribute to increase in sales and, in the last three weeks, sales online have boomed, increasing the normal volume by 15 times”.

On the Ontario side, Craig de Blois of NobleEstates.com confirms the positive trend of Canadian demand: “Retail

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channels are still open, but only for a few hours and not every day. However, sales are increasing”. The situation is different for other channels. “We are very sad to see the state of dining that is really suffering a lot. Our company,” continues de Blois, “brings more than 60% more cases to consumer homes. We say that up to now, in our market, e-commerce had never really taken off and now we expect the trend to continue even afterwards”.

There is in fact no danger of running out of stock, at least for the moment: “The Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO) has been very proactive in increasing the ordering of the best-selling wines, therefore surely we will have wine to sell. The hospitality sector certainly is losing more, but when it will be all over I’m sure that most consumers will have more desire to leave the house and eat in our restaurants.”

Another and no less important issue concerns another market that’s our neighbour, namely the United States: “A bad management of the emergency in the States” said de Blois, “I fear may delay, even in Canada, the return to the new normal”. But let’s see what’s really going on across the Canadian border.

USA – PARADOXICALLY NOW IT’S EASIER TO PURCHASE ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES To this day, New York State is still allowing restaurants to consider beer, wine and spirits as takeaway and delivery items. It’s no coincidence that the Governor of New York, Andrew Cuomo considered liquor stores to be “essential” activities, allowing them to remain open. The new rules in force are primarily intended to provide aid to small businesses by keeping alcoholic products available to consumers. Similar measures are also in force in other states - such as Maryland and New Jersey, California, Nebraska, Vermont,

WORLD

Kentucky, Colorado and the District of Columbia - which allow take-out orders and delivery of alcohol to restaurants, while Maryland and Texas have allowed home deliveries. But not all states have reduced restrictions normally in force.

For example, the governor of Pennsylvania, Tom Wolf, has closed all liquor stores and other alcohol distributors (source: The Hill-Washington, D.C.).

At the moment, grocery and club stores, in addition to online platforms, are operating at full speed. Roger Nabedian, Senior VP and General Manager of the Premium Wine division of Gallo, the largest wine production, distribution and import company in the world, with a turnover of 4.5 billion dollars, in the only statement released in these days, explained that the company is continuing to operate “as a food and beverage manufacturer in California providing essential businesses, such as food stores, supermarkets and convenience stores, according to federal and state guidelines.”

UK, BREXIT AND COVID-19 ARE PUTTING THE FUTURE AT RISK In the UK, Tim French, Managing Director of Thorman Hunt, a London-based company specializing in high quality wines (also many Italian labels) said that “Currently in the UK, the wine business is under severe stress: all restaurants have closed, as well as many retail businesses, some are offering reduced service. Off licenses, however, have been classified as ‘essential stores’ and therefore can remain open if the owners want to.” The future? “I think this crisis will reassess lifestyles. The shops that are open are witnessing a significant return in trade, while people only drink at home. During this period, the online wine trade has increased and I expect it will also continue after the business freeze. Dining will probably see a slower recovery even afterwards, because customers will maintain social distanc-

ARGENTINA: HARVEST AND LOCKDOWN

I have been coming to Argentina for the harvest for a decade, to Bodega Chacra (owned by Piero Incisa della Rocchetta) in the Rio Negro valley, Patagonia.

This was a somewhat particular year, but luckily the pandemic came late compared to the vintage. In fact, having early varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, we collected almost everything from February 10 to March 10, and in Argentina the first case of Coronavirus occurred on March 3 and the mandatory quarantine was introduced on March 20. So we were not forced into restrictions in the vineyard. Subsequently, in the cellar, the process was carried out in the shortest possible time: we supplied disposable masks and gloves, soap bars at every corner of the cellar, sanitizing the handles with alcohol at the end of the day. Compared to a traditional harvest, we experienced some slowdown in operations, having reduced staff by 25%. Activity has gone on anyway – keep in mind that we are in the middle of the Pampa steppe – but limiting access to visitors. As far as I’m concerned, together with my out of town roommates, I live in a house on the property: we are no longer leaving the estate and the supplies are delivered twice a week. I was due to return to Italy shortly, but flights got canceled and I am waiting for the Italian embassy in Buenos Aires, together with Alitalia, to organize another flight home.

– Gabriele Graia, consultant and production manager at Bodega Chacra

ing. Financial pressure will certainly put a strain on the sector and there will be less disposable income available for spending”.

Again from London, Simon Cassina, wine educator, sommelier and buyer who deals with marketing and events, observes that “for over two weeks the entire on trade sector has been wiped out by pouring onto the off trade. Working for an independent shop” he adds “during phase 1 we had to close off the wine lounge and cancel all tastings and courses. The wine shop continued to operate, adopting so-

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cial distancing of 2 meters and payments only with credit cards. The closure of the business to the public has certainly pushed the online business, especially by loyal customers acquired over the past two years”.

Hard to say when the recovery will begin: “It will take several years to recover what has been lost” ventures Cassina “without forgetting that Brexit will also arrive at the end of the year. Despite everything, I see the opportunity to rebuild on the rubble and to return to a profitable business in 2025”. ››

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GERMANY: STRICT RULES AND FEW SEASONAL WORKERS

German producers are experiencing a working situation that’s very similar to the Italian one: work can be done both in the vineyard and in the cellar, respecting the rules of health and social distancing. But there is one problem in common: lack of seasonal workers. Urged by farmers, the Ministry of Agriculture has drawn up a protocol together with the Ministry of the Internal Affairs. Last April 2nd, 40,000 seasonal workers were given permission, limited to April and May, pushing the requirement to approximately 100,000 by the end of May and 300,000 by the end of 2020. In addition, the German government has decided that social security payments to seasonal workers paid by employers, can take place until 31 October, after 115 working days instead of the usual 70. The safety rules are extremely strict. For example, seasonal workers cannot arrive by bus but only by plane; companies must go to the airport to pick them up and the first 14 days they must live practically in quarantine. Before the protocol, the Deutsche Bauern-verband (DBV), a similar body to Italian Coldiretti, and the Ministry of Agriculture had already activated free online job supply/demand platforms to recruit seasonal workers, also giving the opportunity to join to students, asylum seekers, unemployed and restaurant and bar staff. Training material was made available.

The total closure of restaurants, bars, etc. started on the third weekend of March nationwide, so it’s too soon to estimate the damage. For the dining business, pick-up or home delivery service is allowed. Direct sales in the cellar are allowed throughout the country, obviously without tasting, and observing the safety rules. In Baden-Württemberg wine shops must remain closed but sales can continue in the other production regions. Companies that sell agricultural equipment, machinery, fertilizers, etc. are operational.

The government has also decided on an “emergency support” program for “VAT number holders” and for small businesses, which also applies to farmers. Companies with up to 5 employees receive 9,000 euros, up to 10 employees the sum amounts to 15,000 euros. The stimulus is valid for three months and the money is non-refundable. In addition to this, also further regional measures and access to credit are applied.

– Veronika Crecelius, Italy correspondent for Weinwirtsch newspaper

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PORTUGAL, A BRUTAL ANALYSIS: ESTIMATED LOSS OF 50% IN SALES Maria Vicente, CEO and winemaker of the Casa de 1927 winery in Santarem and ambassador of Portuguese wine in the world, writes that “The wine sector is in total stagnation. Horeca-related companies and distributors complain of a 98% drop. The closings of hotels and restaurants together with the sharp drop in tourism, will reduce annual domestic consumption by 30%-35%. Furthermore, the hypothesized recovery scenarios are devastating”.

The Grupo de Acompanhamento e Avaliação das Condições de Abastecimento de Bens nos Sectores Agroalimentares e do Retalho, created by the Government, foresees “very serious consequences for the entire wine sector. The cancellation of international orders (and the logistical obstacles in exporting to European markets), the consequent loss of purchasing power will aggravate the annual drop in sales by around 50%”. Furthermore, without storage capacity, with more stocks to sell and with the next harvest coming, the price of grapes and wine will drop dramatically. The much lower turnover and the foreseeable lack of liquidity in businesses, in a sector that the working group claims to be composed of 76.6% of micro-wineries, “will cause their deterioration, causing the closure of many, with very serious future implications for the whole wine sector”. Nevertheless, there is no lack of initiatives to increase sales and market online: “In particular” continues Vincente “there’s the Mercado dos Vinhos Digital, the virtual wine fair and other initiatives such as Portugal Wine Week, Wine Hour at Home and also the initiative of the Association by Portuguese wine municipalities: 6 wine tastings online via Zoom, every Friday, with the producers. Plus the various Comissões Vitivinícolas Regionais have created platforms to make wine sales available online”.

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MISO, SAKE, FISH,AND ZEN IN THE TOHŌKU REGION. DISCOVERING JAPAN’S RURAL DISHES

Outside of the metropolitan are of Tokyo, Japan is another universe in terms of gastronomy, as well as for its profound culture. In many respects it has similarities with Italy, especially for its passion for quality ingredients and territorial diversification of its traditions. We went to the Northern prefectures of Aomori, Akita and Yamagata to learn more about some of the country’s most authentic culinary roots

Words by Giovanni Angelucci – Photos by Massimo Colombo

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apan is the dream destination of many and beyond passing fads, it continues to hold a solid place in the rankings of the countries to visit. Even those who have never been to the land of the Rising Sun know that the local cuisine is special, unique, worthy of a special trip. However, less is known about how diverse the Japanese cuisine is and how different it is across the 47 prefectures. Discovering Tokyo’s gastronomy, however compellingis a given, which is why this time we focus on a lesser-known itinerary, the north of Japan, the Tohōku region.

Among mountains, temples, ancient sake productions, samurai residenc-

es and monks at the stove, we discover its most authentic side. The prefectures we recommend are Aomori, Akita and the enchanting Yamagata, in the Tohōku region (which literally means “North-East”).

THE NORTH-EAST TERRITORY In 2011 a devastating earthquake and tsunami struck this area, but the strong nature of the people of Tohōku contributes to the recovery of the northernmost region of the country, which is much more rural than Tokyo (located further south) but more developed than Hokkaido (even further north). When arriving in the capital a good idea is moving immediately to Yamagata using 

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1. The temple complex of Yamadera in the prefecture of Yamagata, a coastal region famous for its production of different fruits such as cherries sold in very elegant and expensive packages

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STORIES

MINI GLOSSARY Dashi Light and clear fish broth used as a base in many preparations (such as miso soup).

Kombu Dark seaweed belonging to the laminaria group, used as a flavouring and/or sweetener and as a side dish.

Hotate Japanese scallops.

Komekoji Rice cooked with koji (see above).

Imoni Beef and vegetable stew with taro root and konyaku (see below).

Konyaku Flour obtained from the konjac tuber.

Kiritanpo Rice dumpling skewers.

Kisakata Iwagaki Giant oysters from the Sea of Japan.

Koji Koji is the fermentation base for a number of important preparations: a mold derived from the mix of cooked rice and the fungus aspergillus aryzae.

Kura Cellars where sake is produced.

Maguro Tuna.

Miso Seasoning derived from the fermentation of yellow soy beans (Hatcho Miso), sometimes combined with other grains.

Mochi Gelatinous pastry made from glutinous rice..

Nokke-don Rice bowl topped with raw fish.

Sake Also called “rice wine�, an alcoholic beverage made from rice, water and koji spores (see above).

Samurai Soldiers of the ancient feudal military class (but abolished in the late 1800s) belonging to one of the two Japanese aristocratic castes, the warriors.

Shojin ryori Vegetarian cuisine of Buddhist monks.

Soba Thin buckwheat flour noodles.

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2. A monk living in the Mount Yudono shelter, in the prefecture of Yamagata, a destination for pilgrimages and prayer visits 3. A monk following the path that leads to the sanctuary where he lives, on Mount Haguro in the Yamagata region 4. The stone and wood staircase leading to the sanctuary of Mount Haguro

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Tempura Fish or vegetables battered separately and fried.

Teppanyaki Cooking performed on a very hot steel plate (teppan) often placed directly at the table.

Tofu Originally from China, this is soy milk curd. Also known as vegetable “cheese”.

Umami Identified in 1908 it’s the fifth flavour perceived on the palate. In Japanese it means “savoury” and indicates the taste of glutamate.

Zen Set of Japanese Buddhist schools (and teachings) deriving from Chan Chinese Buddhism.

the fast and punctual Shinkansen “bullet train”. Yamagata is a large prefecture along the coast of the Sea of Japan, known for its agricultural products, in particular cherries, in regards to which the Japanese manically sell them neat and shiny in packs that seem more like chocolates than fruit.

THE CUISINE OF THE BUDDHIST MONKS The fruit was brought here in 1876 and today the prefecture produces approximately 70% of all Japanese cherries.

In this part of the country all the rural charm surrounded by natural beauty emerges, first of all its mountains where it’s also possible to ski. And it’s precisely here that one can tread the paths of Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono to visit the Sanctuary of Mount Haguro.

It’s a magical and peaceful place removed from mass tourism. Located here is Miyashita-bo refuge, a mountain  3

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SAKE FROM TOHŌKU. THE ALCHEMY OF TERROIR The particularity of the Yamagata sake lies in the special relationship between the sakagura: a horizontal alchemy has been created between the over 52 wineries that make it a unique region in the world of sake and spirits. Thirty years ago a biologist, Master Koseki Toshihiko, played a fundamental role in the construction of this network. As head of the institute’s sake research centre, he defined the regulation for sensory analysis and tastings that took place monthly at the Yamagata Brewing Research Society. Participants were asked to comment on each sample tasted and to focus on the limits of each sake. The aim was to encourage producers to be open with each other by sharing their techniques and opinions. In addition, a two-day annual workshop helped strengthen connection between producers. This intelligent system of cooperation was responsible for the rise of a region that today finds itself as the first for sake quality, as evidenced by the numerous victories in competitions and international recognition through the International Wine Challenge. The average quality in Yamagata has increased, with general sharing in which all the producers are aware of the work of others without however incurring any vaguely similar sake.

– Lorenzo Ferraboschi, Italy Representative for SSA (Sakè Sommelier Association) and President of Sake Company

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destination for pilgrims hailing from all over the country. Here it’s possible to visit particular temples called shukubo where everything is focused on purification of the soul and on silence. Guests sleep in a traditional tatami room and eat shojin ryori, vegetarian cuisine of Buddhist monks with a set menu: bamboo, native mushrooms that grow on oak trunks, soba, vegetables with miso, seaweed noodles. The trekking routes are somewhat hard, but rest is also guaranteed; preparing head and belly to different habits, primarily the elimination of coffee for breakfast, replaced by vegetables in vinegar, wild vegetables, tempura, tofu and tea.

CHERRIES, WATERMELON, BEER AND SAKE Leave the refuge and head to the Yamadera temple which is the perfect

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8 5 and 6. Ritual and prayer objects hanging from the trees that surround the sanctuary of Mount Haguro in a crisp forest, whose 5-storey structure stands out among the tops of the evergreens that embrace it 7. The outdoor terrace of one of the rooms of the Outou No Hana Yubou Ichiraku Hotel, where you can enjoy a bath while sipping sake or beer.

The hotel is famous for its beer (Saint Cherry) made with pink cherries and for the Framboise liqueur, made instead with red cherries 8. A traditional dance performance in the courtyard of the Tendo hotel in the prefecture of Yamagata

example of the peaceful corners of this prefecture, where 1,100 steps surrounded by woods and majestic nature await you. As said, the area is famous for its large and juicy cherries and in the Tendo region there are also those who use them for the production of craft beer: Outou No Hana Yubou Ichiraku Hotel, for example, produces three different styles but always with the addition of the fruit.

Soba Dry with slightly smoked buckwheat, Saint Cherry with fresh pink cherry pulp and slight acidity, the more structured and alcoholic Framboise, produced with the red variety.

But the territory is also characterized by the Obanazawa watermelon to which the temperature changes between day and night confer a high sugar content and a very sweet taste: they are used to make local wine, car-

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bonated drinks and many desserts.

Among the most typical dishes, a must is the imoni, a beef and vegetable stew prepared with thin slices of beef, taro root, konyaku (flour obtained from the konjac tuber), spring onions and various seasonal ingredients cooked slowly in a sweetened soy sauce broth cooked in a giant cast iron pot. Yamagata is famous to most for its important sake production that takes place in the period between January and February, the only time it’s possible to taste sake nama (still unpasteurized) inside the approximately 60 wineries, called kura (see box): sake is now produced in each of the 47 Japanese prefectures - a bit like wine in Italy - but only Yamagata obtained the GI “Geographical Indication”, a name similar to the Typical Italian Geographi- 

TOHŌKU REPRESENTED BY 8 DISHES

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1 Sendai beef tongue In Sendai alone, the capital of the Miyagi prefecture (next to Yamagata), there are over one hundred restaurants specializing in this dish.

The tongue is cut into thick slices, grilled on charcoal and accompanied by an oxtail soup.

2 Iwate Jajamen Noodles Created by a Japanese person after visiting China, this is a dish of soy noodles mixed with minced meat, cucumber and green onion, chilli oil and grated garlic.

3 Akita Inaniwa Udon Originating in the southern part of Akita, these thin noodles have been made by hand and consumed for over 300 years in Tōhoku. They are accompanied by different sauces, hot and cold.

4 Yamagata Yonezawa Beef Yonezawa (in the Yamagata prefecture) is famous for its black cattle breeders. Their meat is finely infiltrated with high organoleptic quality fat due to the temperature changes to which the bovines are subjected. Simply grilled, it releases all its umami.

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5 Aomori Oma Tuna Rice Bowl Oma bluefin tuna is considered the best in Japan: to make the best of it, it’s placed in a bowl with rice to create maguro (tuna)-don (bowl).

6 Fukushima Kitakata Ramen Ramen with a soy sauce flavour obtained from a pork bone broth and small dried fish.

7 Negi-soba A must in Ouchi-juku (Fukushima prefecture, also in Tohōku) is the famous soba noodles prepared strictly by hand and enjoyed using a leek instead of common chopsticks.

8 Grilled char In Tohōku lives a variety of giant char fish. The Japanese love it and prepare it in various ways, but the most classic is Ouchijuku, that is salted and then grilled on coals.

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cal Indication which certifies the origin and quality of the product. This is where some of the best expressions of this ancient beverage actually come from. Just think that even in the sanctuary of Mount Haguro a ritual sake is served: used during religious ceremonies and first offered to the god and then consumed together with visitors. This “sacred” sake is chosen not by type, but based on its place of production: it’s important in fact that the distillery be located near the temple and that it is managed by people belonging to this territory.

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IN THE HOMELAND OF THE SAMURAI (AND MISO) Entering the Akita prefecture one can reach Kakunodate, the city of the Samurai. Here the Suzuki distillery, sakagura (winery) born in 1689 is worth a visit: now in its 19th generation, the family produces twen- 

9 and 10. Images of the processing at the Suzuki Sake Brewery: top, the bottling and below, a ripening container 11. Alexander Childs, export manager of the Suzuki Sake Brewery winery in Kakunodatein Akita prefecture

TOHŌKU CUISINE: ALL THE FLAVOURS OF NABE-MONO In my country, during the cold season, we warm up with nabe-mono; the Tohoku region is no exception and we can taste variations of this dish. What is nabe? Literally it means pot (usually clay) while mono means stuff. So when we talk about nabe-mono we refer to the food prepared in the pot, with broth. One of the best known of these preparations is kiritanpo, traditional of the Akita prefecture. The dish is prepared with rice pressed around a skewer and then cooked; then it is placed in a pot with local ingredients such as native Hinai breed chicken, Japanese Seri parsley and mountain mushrooms. The broth thus obtained has astrong flavour; plus added soy sauce, sake and sugar.

In the prefecture of Yamagata, there is a dish called imoni which uses typical products such as Yamagata beef, Taro potato and konnyaku obtained from potatoes: All these ingredients coexist together in the pot, seasoned with a soy sauce-flavoured broth. Depending on the area, the recipe may vary, soy sauce is replaced by miso or pork takes the place of beef. It’s not really a nabe-mono, but I would also like to mention a soup always prepared in a pot with shiru broth, such as miso soup. In Aomori prefecture I would not forget the vegetarian keno shiru dish, historically consumed on January 15th: day called ko-shougatsu (ko means small and shougatsu means New Year) and where traditionally a kayu dish based on rice and other cereals was eaten . Rice was precious and was replaced and “imitated” by very finely chopped vegetables.

This type of soup can be found not only in Aomori prefecture, but also in Akita prefecture. Today it is eaten when the cold season arrives and is based on vegetables such as daikon, carrot, mushrooms, and other vegetable protein ingredients such as tofu (also fried) seasoned with soy sauce or miso.

– Gen Ohhashi, gastronome, ex docent at Università di Pollenzo and owner of Ciotto restaurant in Milan

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STORIES

ty different types, including aged koshu. «We have a female patron Saint of sake: in order not to risk her being jealous, women have never been allowed to enter the production area to this day - smiles Suzuki Naoki, President of the winery - We are the only ones who use pure water from Mount Oū and part of the process is still carried out by hand.

We produce 150,000 bottles a year for twenty different labels, including the centuries-old Hideyoshi sake whose story deserves to be told - explains the entrepreneur - In 1848, when the Samurai era was drawing to a close, the feudal lord of Akita Lord Satake, organized a competition to determine the best sake in his domain. Producers from all over the prefecture gathered around Kubota Castle, each with the best of intentions. At that time few had heard of our “Hatsu-Arashi” but after one sip Lord Satake exclaimed “Hidette-Yoshi” which means “extremely good”, proclaiming him the best. From that day

we changed the name to Hideyoshi and today it is our pride».

In Kakunodate it’s also possible to get the best miso-tasting ever. Since 1850, the Ando Joozoo city distillery has been producing soy sauce and miso, an activity that has now become a sort of ritual and has now reached its fourth generation. Japan traditionally produces different types of miso: made with rice, soy beans or barley. Depending on the raw materials used and their origin, the miso can be sweet or spicy, red, white or light. The one produced by the Ando distillery is red and spicy and stands out for its high percentage of koji, for its umami flavour and for the right salty point resulting from long fermentation. It is produced using only rice, soy beans, salt and Aspergillus Oryzae. The steps for the production of this miso retrace the ancient centuries-old traditions: cooking rice and making koji,

12 13 12. Miso produced by the Ando Joozoo distillery in Kakunodate 13. Wraps for the maturation of the soybean meal used to make the mochi 14. The preparation of kiritanpo: grilled rice skewers topped with a walnut sauce. The rice used is Akitakomachi which must dry thoroughly before being passed on the grill

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steaming the soy beans, the mixing of these and the komekoji (rice cooked with koji). Plus the delicate processing in the barrels (some still from the Edo period) in which everything is assembled. The scent of this place is enchanting and it will linger even when walking along the wide avenues of the “little Kyoto”, as Kakunodate is known as. It’s like time stopped here, the urban landscape has remained practically unchanged since 1600 and gives the city the eternal charm of the ancient legends of Japan, the Samurai and the cherry blossoms.

Here it’s worth enjoying a dinner by chef Sato Satoru of Domanin restaurant to try some of the dishes that made him famous, such as tuna sashimi (maguro). «The secret is obviously the freshness of the raw material but also the flesh of the fish, including the presence of water in it, or the precision in the clean cut operated», says

ADDRESSES

the cook. Sato has been working here for 3 years - but he spent 40 years working in the restaurants of the Oogiri group - and he is famous for his suimono – a soup that is consumed on important occasions consisting of kombu (seaweed), salmon, hotate (scallops). The ingredients vary according to season – and for his local chicken dishes with chewy and tasty meat, whose best preparation is the oyako don made of egg and rice.

Where to stay  Outou No Hana Yubow Itiraku Hotel

Tendo (Yamagata) – 2-2-21 Kamata Honcho – +81(0)236543311 - itiraku. com

Hotel featuring tradition and modernity that offers a public or private onsen

(spa) if you book a suite.  Shukubo Miyashita-bou

Tsuruoka (Yamagata ) 223 Haguromachi Touge +81(0)235622371 A unique place to share with pilgrims, for those who want to participate in

THE “RICE SKEWERS” OF THE HUNTERS Akita is also known for the kiritanpo of the Kazuno locality, where Mrs. Ruoko Hosoya prepares exquisite varieties in the Experience Museum. «At the origin of this preparation there are the needs of the local hunters: they left for the mountains and brought with them balls of rice which they would then skewer with cedar sticks and then heat on the fire. The 

morning rituals the dawn alarm clock is the sound of the gong

 Tamachi Bukeyashiki Hotel

Samboku (Akita) – 23 Kakunodatemachi +81(0)187521700 - bukeyashiki.jp If you want to stay in the samurai district this is the place for you, located in a vintage building

 Oirase Keiryu Hotel

Towada (Aomori) – 231 Tochikubo Okuse –+81(0)5037861144 oirase-keiryuu.jp High-level resort immersed in nature with a relaxing onsen

 Keyo Plaza Hotel

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Shinjuku (Tokyo) – 2 Chome-2-1 Nishishinjuku –+81(0)333440111 keioplaza.com A piece of history in the city and a place to stay at, one of the oldest hotels in tokyo that welcomes clients since 1971. the sky lounge aurora is the place to drink a cocktail on the

45th floor.

 Mandarin Oriental Tokyo

Chuo (Tokyo) – 2 Chome-1-1 Nihonbashimuromachi +81(0)332708800 mandarinoriental.com The most luxurious hotel in tokyo. located on the 37th and 38th floor of the nihonbashi mitsui tower. not only wonderful rooms and spas but also twelve between restaurants and bars two of which are michelin stars.

Where to eat  Trattoria Takifudo Kisoba

Yamagata – 4359 Yamadera 81(0)236 952039 During the trek to the yamadera temple you will enjoy an excellent bowl of soba, the famous buckwheat noodles

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Sapporo Tatehana Wharf Morning Market Keyo Plaza Hotel Oirase Keiryu Hotel

Mandarin Oriental Tokyo

Furukawa Fish Market Auga Fresh Market Osaka

Tokyo

Aomori Hirosaki Market Hirosaki

Hachinohe

Ōdate

Noshiro

Tamachi Bukeyashiki Hotel Domanin

Ando Joozoo

Akita Akita Shimin Ichiba Akita

Suzuki Shuzo Ten Shukubo Miyashita-bou

Yokote Nikaho

Kamaishi

Ōshū

Outou No Hana Yubou Ichiraku Hotel Trattoria Takifudo Kisoba

Sendai Murakami

Stay Eat

Niigata

Markets and Street Food Sake

Fukushima Sendai Morning Market

Miso

Aizuwakamastu

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100 km

NOTHERN JAPAN

15. An example of a pilgrim’s dinner that can be eaten inside the various shrines in the area, enjoying Buddhist cuisine

 Domanin Semboku (Akita) – 30 KakunodateMachi – +81(0)187521703 Typical local specialties by the hands of veteran chef sato satoru, unmissable udon with tuna.

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rice used is Akitakomachi which must dry thoroughly before being cooked on the grill. Originally, these preparations were eaten without condiments or just with a little miso. Today, however, it’s also seasoned with a walnut sauce». Famous in this area are also two traditional preparations that were offered to pilgrims traveling to the temples: one is suimono, a soup with keiran (eggs) in a dashi base, mochi made of glutinous rice stuffed with anko, an azuki bean jam. The other dish often offered to travelers is horumon, i.e. pork tripe with a base of miso and a (secret!) sauce cooked in a pressure cooker with dried cabbage. Before leaving Akita, look for the fleshy Kisakata Iwagaki, giant and wild oysters from the rocky and cold depths of the Sea of Japan, sought after for their creamy appearance and fresh taste, a must for oyster lovers (the best can be enjoyed between July  and August).

 Oirase Keiryu Hotel

Towada (Aomori) – 231 Tochikubo, Okuse –+81(0)5037861144 oirase-keiryuu.jp A restaurant within the resort featuring a buffet dinner with every sort of delight in north japan, between instant cooking, steaming ramen and super fresh seafood.

Markets & Street Food  Furukawa Fish Market

Aomori – Fukurama 1-11-16 +87(0)177630085 – nokkedon.jp Well stocked fish market where you can shop and lunch by choosing the freshest fish from the various stalls.

 Auga Fresh Market

Aomori – 1-3-7 Shimmachi auga.aomori.jp The other fish market (and more) of aomori, further north of the former: here too you can buy and taste local food.

 Hirosaki Market

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Hirosaki – 2-1 Hyakkoku-machi +81(0)172382256 – tsugarunavi.jp/en/ The market in the aomori prefecture that sells every kind of street food, not only japanese but also chinese and indian.

 Tatehana Wharf Morning Market

Hachinohe-shi (Aomori) – 3-chome Shinminato – +81(0)178273868 – minatonichiyouasaichikai.com Known as the largest wet market in japan, held every sunday in tatehana wharf, in the fishing port. before dawn it fills with over 400 vendors and thousands of visitors who eat and shop.

 Akita Shimin Ichiba

Akita – 4-7-35, Nakadori A lively market near jr akita station with hundreds of vendors, where to shop and eat while strolling. it is dubbed “akita’s kitchen”.  Sendai Morning Market

Sendai (Miyagi) – 4-3-1 Chuo, Aoba-ku A market dedicated to the gastronomic culture of tsuruoka, city of unescoprotected cuisine. a small road with stores that sell typical and lesserknown delights.

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FRUIT, VEGETABLES AND THE FISH MARKET A one hour and a half drive takes you to the Aomori prefecture, the northernmost of Tohōku. This area is known for apples (such as fuji and mutsu). In the restaurant of the Oirase Keiryu Hotel it’s possible to taste dishes prepared with Teppanyaki, a Japanese cooking method: here Japanese cuisine and western habits meet on the teppan, the special cooking hot plate. The modern and enjoyable version proposed at Oirase Keuryu uses beef ribeye, onion, bean sprouts and lettuce; or with hotate scallops from the Okkaido prefecture (in the north) which are distinguished by their much larger than average size.

Another must is the Furukawa Fish Market also known as Aomori Gyosai Center, a five-minute walk from

Aomori station. An authentic and buzzing place where local fishermen meet and where visitors can decide to eat their nokkedon: with tickets in sets of five (650 yen) or ten (1,300 yen), diners can choose and pay for various types of raw fish that sellers lay on the rice bowl.

Diners walk among the counters and stop to look at what the fishmongers are selling: crab, molluscs, seaweed, fish eggs of all kinds, sashimi unlike we’ve never seen in Italy and other delicacies.

All enjoyed on one of the tables set up around the market using common condiments such as wasabi, soy sauce and ginger. Delicate gestures, unequivocal flavours.

Atmospheres and similar flavours can be experienced at the other city fish market in Auga, only a few blocks further north: but our advice is to reserve it for another day, on an empty head and stomach!

SOBA: THE THOUSAND (AND MORE) BOWLS OF JAPANESE NOODLES The origins of soba (Japanese buckwheat noodles) served on repeat (even by the hundreds in small characteristic bowls) are rooted in the history of the pIwate refecture (also known as the Nambu region): rich in folklore and inhabited by feudal lords for which the portions of the famous noodles were never enough. The term wanko (which in local dialect means “small wooden bowl”) came into use only recently, after the WWII, when the phenomenon became part of Pop Culture and real competitions began to take place. While hearing stories of incredible numbers (the record is said to be 570 “wanko”, let’s see if with the 2020 Olympics, the real ones hosted in Tokyo, this record will be beaten) a “sport” within everyone’s reach. Each bowl contains what we will call “a forkful” of soba and 15 are needed for the equivalent of a “real” plate or bowl. A consumption of 100 bowls is the dividing line to surpass in order to earn the respect and admiration of the Japanese. If you follow the advice (don’t drink the broth, season a little, don’t eat anything else and... don’t chew) you can aim to down at least 6 portions (about 600g of soba) and enter the Olympus of the top 100, those who were able to eat more than 100 bowls. You will have earned the respect of the Japanese. The wanko soba lunch is therefore a sort of competition in which waitstaff arrives every two or three minutes with a tray carrying ten bowls and only those who have finished the previous round can eat the next. And don’t put the lid on the bowl: it means you surrender! Do you want to train? In Morioka, the capital of the prefecture of Iwate (one of the 6 provinces in the Tohōku region) there is honten (the flagship store) of Azumaya, which is the oldest and most famous restaurant specializing in Wanko soba. Here, with 25 euros you can literally eat “all you can” and they will give you a wooden souvenir plate with your number of ingested bowls (wankosoba.jp).

– Marco Massarotto, Founder and President of Nippon Concièrge - nipponconcierge.com

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Aomori, which is also the main city of the prefecture and which gives it its name, is the home of Nebuta Matsuri festival held in August and for which it is famous in the country: colourful allegorical floats made of rice paper on parade represent Japanese myths and characters of films.

Its 300 years of history testify how this festival is particularly celebrated by the citizens who during the year work hard at the preparations to compete and above all to win the parade to which the Nebuta Warasse Museum is also dedicated.

The TohĹ?ku region has six prefectures in all, but the three we travelled to give much more than a taste of what this land can give to those who visit it. An unusual Japan, far from the stereotypes. A Japan that can be remember for a lifetime. ď ś

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17. In the Aomori fish market a raw fish seller fills a visitor’s nokkedon: a raw shrimp covering the rice in the bowl 16. Also in Aomori, a fish vendor is packing a slice from the tentacle of a large octopus 18. The main entrance to the Aomori Fish Market 19. Another raw fish seller in the market is ready sell for take-out or consumed in a bowl of rice filled upon request at the various counters

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Finally, even in Italy, experts, consumers and wine lovers will have at their fingertips an authoritative tool to promote and divulge the culture of Italian wine in China

Listing all the DOCG, DOC and IGT wines, and over 600 vines grown in Italy, for the first time translated into Mandarin

ITALIAN-CHINESE

Available on www.gamberorosso.it and on Amazon

PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN THREE DISHES - MORENO CEDRONI

MORENO CEDRONI INVENTING MEMORY Born in 1964, Moreno was one of the first Italian chefs struck on the path of creative Spain. But his creativity developed independently and personally. «It all started with the debut of Susci (my "sushi" reform) presented here and with gaining Tre Forchette recognition by Gambero Rosso: therefore I like that my story starts there». In that way we'll miss other important creations... «There are many, like the turbot chop. Some are however no longer on the menu. For this reason, since 2020 I have a new tasting menu called Childhood memories».

WHERE MADONNINA DEL PESCATORE Senigallia (AN) - Lido di Marzocca Lungomare Italia, 11 071698267 - morenocedroni.it PUNTEGGIO GUIDA 2020 Cuisine 47 Wine Cellar 17 Service 27 Bonus 1 Total 92 OPEN SINCE 1984 words by Stefano Polacchi – portrait by Francesco Zoppi

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN THREE DISHES - MORENO CEDRONI

“

SUSCI & SUSCI It was 1999 and my passion for raw seafood and for Japan was big. A few years earlier I had put "eight tablespoons of appetizers" on my menu which turned out to be a great success.

Why 8 bites? Because the dishes that my mother cooked for me led me to eat them in only 8 forkfuls! I thought of working on eight bites (raw and cooked) where "colatura" anchovy sauce of Cetara was my soy sauce together with extra virgin olive oil, tomato and burrata: a series of Italian ingredients for a recipe that had ancient Asian origins.

This fostered a series of fortunate situations: the creation of a glass plate with eight holes (among the first ever) and the opening of the Clandestino Susci Bar in Portonovo. It may have appeared, however, that I was mocking Sushi, with the name Susci: so every year the Clandestino menu changes with different themes and flavours, while the original is always on the menu here at Madonnina, in the "Mariella" tasting menu photo Michele Tabozzi

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PENNE RIGATE, SEA URCHIN BUTTER, DRIED SCALLOPS, WILD HERBS AND COAL-ROASTED CUTTLEFISH From 1999 we jump to 2019 focusing on a new pasta recipe, equally innovative in the way it's eaten: you eat the pasta with a tongs, one piece at a time. Italy is big on "forks", but taking one single penne at a time slows down the degustation time and prolongs the pleasure...

In addition, the texture also changes between the first and last bite. The complexity of the dish comes from the fact that the dried scallop powder, wild herbs and cuttlefish roasted on embers create a mix of flavours that range between savory and bitter, and that perfectly balance the sea urchin butter. The dish is garnished with a freeze-dried star-shaped Mediterranean sea urchin that diners can crumble on top to finish the dish. A dish bearing the signature of Luca Abbadir, head of research in my Lab)

photo Francesca Brambilla - Serena Serrani

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN THREE DISHES - MORENO CEDRONI

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN THREE DISHES - MORENO CEDRONI

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CEDRONITA (black banana peel gelato, gianduia, hazelnut streusel, sorrel syrup) A dessert born at The Tunnel, my research and development laboratory. Precisely a year ago, I realised that research was the element that could make my story always up-to-date: research executed with different equipment than the classic kitchen equipment, where the product could have different evolutions.

Without distorting the menus created so far, but by adding extra notes. Black banana, for example, was the first test in the Korean pressure cooker: the colour resembled something rotten, butth taste was very good, as the gelato derived from it. From there on, a sequence of new discoveries, such as freezedried banana to be grated in the dining room, and an edible wafer host in the shape of the famous bananas brand sticker, but bearing instead the name of the dessert.

photo Francesca Brambilla - Serena Serrani

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GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Chiara Buosi, Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Giovanni Angelucci, Andrea Gabbrielli, Stefano Polacchi

PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Consorzio di Tutela del Primitivo di Manduria, Massimo Colombo, Francesco Zoppi GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia Advertising Class PubblicitĂ SpA Milano, Via Marco Burigozzo, 8 - tel. 02 58219522 For commercial enquiries: mprestileo@class.it Advertising director Paola Persi email: ufficio.pubblicita@gamberorosso.it Gambero Rosso and are registered trademarks belonging to Gambero Rosso S.p.A. GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2020.

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GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials.

May 2020

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