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The August lull
Lorenzo Ruggeri
Italian wine needs a holiday. One filled with books, silence and flavours. To clear the mind and shake off this mood of decline, between catastrophism and tariff nightmares. In recent months, the sector seems to have lost its clarity, sense of proportion and identity. All we hear about is crisis: distilling, uprooting, reducing yields at random, reinventing Tuscany as a laboratory for sparkling wines. Are we really ready to scrap centuries of cultural background to chase the market as if it were TikTok? Paradox has become the norm: those who demonise alcohol-free wines today will sign six deals tomorrow to “tap into the segment” and everyone will applaud. Let’s stop for a second and look back to analyse the moment. According to the data, Italian wine has been on a remarkable run for almost 40 years, since the methanol scandal in 1986. There has been uninterrupted growth on all fronts: production quality, turnover, knowledge, training, rediscovered territories in Italy and proudly showcased around the world. In the last 15 years alone, exports have practically doubled. Doubled! Now it’s time to slow down, as the balance between supply and demand is changing and consumption is down almost everywhere. There are numerous issues at stake: economic ones, but also changing lifestyles, just like in the restaurant industry. It is part of a larger cycle; we are not minimising its significance, but it is important to put it into context. This is also to avoid falling prey to collective anxiety, which leads nowhere. As Alessio Planeta argues, we need to stop measuring wine in litres and start measuring it in euros. «Imagine if Armani were asked how many square metres of fabric he sold and where», says the Sicilian producer ironically. The quantity championship is coming to an end, we need to think increasingly in terms of value. And plan actions to bring wine back into everyday life, into our cultural background, into the joy of being together without having to sit through four hours of technical seminars. We need to take wine where it has never been before, tell its story better, make it desirable and appealing to a wider audience. If wine can no longer excite, it is useless. And let’s stop blaming young people for this decline in the market: perhaps it is we who no longer speak their language. Perhaps it is also partly our fault, those who produce and communicate wine: we have lost the true taste for storytelling and sharing. Let’s try again, with passion and humility. In this slow month, as the cities empty out and the first grapes are harvested, wine has a rare opportunity: to rediscover and claim its own time. And, between a fish soup and a beach umbrella, even find meaning. Have a good August. Calm and wine.
food
Barracuda, rabbit fish and blue crab
The Mediterranean is becoming tropical Aliens on the plate
by Antonella De Santis
Imagine a ship returning from a voyage carrying a creature capable of destroying all life. A familiar story: if you are a science fiction fan, the creature is the Alien that landed on the Nostromo and threatened Sigourney Weaver. If, on the other hand, you follow the news, you will remember the recent misdeeds of Callinectes sapidus, alias the blue crab , which – a major threat to our seas –arrived in the Mediterranean about half a century ago, probably in the ballast water of ships. But when the sea temperature rose, other antagonistic species – already exploited by humans – went into stress, while the crab proliferated: omnivorous, voracious, fertile (a female can lay up to 2 million eggs a year) and adaptable (it can live between 3 and 35°C and in all salinity conditions), it has spread along our coasts, devastating and plundering, bringing biodiversity and the economy to their knees. And it is not the only danger to our sea, which is suffering from heat, intensive fishing and Lessepsian migration, which has increased since the expansion of the Suez Canal in 2014, facilitating the passage from the Red Sea of bluefish, scorpion fish, rabbit fish and other species that thrive in tropical waters.
Mare Nostrum
The Mediterranean is a closed body of water that is more exposed to rising temperatures: in July 2024, the monthly average exceeded that of the 1991-2020 period by 1.76°C. This is according to Copernicus, the European Union’s Earth observation programme, which on 22 June 2025 recorded a marine heatwave with surface temperatures more than 5°C higher than normal, but the impact is also felt at depth, where heat and acidity are increasing and oxygen is decreasing. «Climate change is no longer a future threat: it is a present reality that is transforming the sea and, consequently, our fish-based cuisine», says Ángel León (chef at Aponiente in Cadiz), one of the chefs most attentive to the marine environment. «Water temperatures and currents are changing and, with them, marine species that were once common are disappearing or migrating to other areas. Fish such as sea bream and sea bass are rare, while tropical species are beginning to appear on our coasts. This has forced us to stop looking at the sea with nostalgia and start interpreting it from a scientific and modern perspective». León has been working for years with mudfish and estuary fish and other less appreciated species. «Because if the sea changes, cuisine
must change too. We cannot continue to cook as if nothing has happened», he adds. It is not just a matter of adapting recipes: «We must change the model of our relationship with the sea. That is why we are working with natural aquaculture in estuaries, restoring salt marshes and promoting the biodiversity of wetlands». According to the WWF, climate change in the Mediterranean is threatening posidonia, gorgonians and pinna nobilis, causing the tropicalisation of the sea, a boom in jellyfish and fish migration, with the arrival of 1,000 new invasive species, including 126 fish. The biodiversity of the complex Mediterranean ecosystem is in danger and the initiatives implemented so far are not enough.
Mussels and calamari
The black mussel of Taranto is at risk of disappearing due to the temperature of the waters of the Mar Piccolo, and there is also alarm for the mosciolo: the wild variety from Portonovo (Presidium suspended by Slow Food, which has asked Masaf to halt fishing until 2025 and provide financial relief for fishermen) and the farmed variety, which is suffering from heat and mucilage. The climate affects seasonality, as in the case of the calamaro caccia-
rolo (Loligo vulgaris), «an absolute delicacy», says Gennaro D’Ignazio of Vecchia Marina, in Roseto degli Abruzzi. «Here, we used to fish close to the coast immediately after the fishing ban, when they were still small. Now, in mid-September, they are already 20 centimetres long because they reproduce much earlier». Between Abruzzo and Marche, there are no longer any swordfish or argentine, «a kind of small cod that was to die for when fried. They used to throw it at you, there was so much of it», says D’Ignazio, who notes that mazzancolle, once rare, are now abundant. The oceanic variety has arrived in the Marche region, adds Moreno Cedroni (Capannina del Pescatore, Senigallia and Clandestino, Portonovo), which is pinker and sweeter. «The quality is good», he says, «and they are not predators: you could say that they enrich our seas». The case of the Indonesian Scrigno di Venere (Anadara inaequivalvis) is different. This invasive bivalve, which is an antagonist of the clam, resists the low oxygen concentrations of summer waters, as does the Rapana Venosa, a robust and voracious snail, «which», says D’Ignazio, «almost never get caught in accidental fishing, proliferates, killing clams and other shellfish». These are edible
International taste, Calabrian soul.
species, already marketed abroad: «they are both a nuisance and an opportunity, like the blue crab», comments Cedroni, who used to make them into a baked broth.
Impoverished seas
Some species are moving to cooler waters, others are at risk of extinction: «Temperature affects fertility, algae remove oxygen and weaken fish», says Gianfranco Pascucci (Pascucci al Porticciolo, Fiumicino), «deep-sea fish and fish for the table are becoming increasingly scarce: yesterday at auction there was only St. Peter’s fish and cod, not even a sea bream», he says. The central Tyrrhenian Sea –«an important breeding ground with brackish water and high temperatures, and with a beating heart: the Secche di Tor Paterno marine protected area» – is now a capricious sea: «one moment you can catch a lot of one species, then suddenly nothing, and no one knows why; two years ago there were lots of sea bream, today there are none; last year there were very few bonito and cuttlefish, but the tellina clams have returned». Here too there are blue crabs and bluefish, voracious predators. «In Focene I saw schools of giant sardines attacked by bluefish». Dolphins are also sighted near the
coast, «some time ago a manta ray washed up on the beach». In Fiumicino, there is a smallscale fishing system, but there are fewer and fewer fishing boats. “There is European funding for those who return their trawling licences”, which will be banned in Europe from 2030. The future lies in selective fishing, but the Italian industry has been weakened by environmental, biological and geopolitical factors, and the arrival of fleets from previously marginal areas, such as North Africa, is threatening Italy’s primacy in deep-sea fishing.
The limits of the fishing ban
“Climate change is reshaping fish populations in the Strait of Sicily and the central Mediterranean; some fish species are being replaced by more thermophilic ones, such as the alaccia, often sold as sardines, which prefers cooler waters. The sea is no longer what it was twenty years ago,‘ explains Fabio Fiorentino of CNR IRBIM, who stresses the need to rethink the biological rest period, considering the impact of new environmental and biological conditions on the reproductive cycle. Mattia Pecis (Cracco in Portofino) often says: ’A month’s fishing ban is useless: it should be one or two years, then something would really change.”. ‘Banning tuna or
swordfish fishing works,’ adds Lorenzo Ardizzone (Da Noi, Letojanni), ‘but it’s a double-edged sword: it puts small fishermen in crisis. Once upon a time, they lived off anchovies or sardines during the ban, which are food for large fish, but today there are too few of them.’ Costardelle, for example, which were abundant in the 1980s, are no longer to be found, and there are few sea urchins and cuttlefish, while shellfish “have reached exorbitant prices”. Not to mention, add Chiara Pavan and Francesco Brutto (Venissa, Venice), that the ban is of little use if the same rules do not apply a few kilometres away. But there are also those, such as Jacopo Ticchi (Da Lucio, Rimini), who change their menu during the fishing ban, focusing on landbased cuisine, which is not an easy choice in the middle of summer.
The Covid experience has shown that unexploited nature regains its vigour. «It’s always man’s fault», says Mattia Pecis. In Portofino, the water is warmer and there are fewer and fewer fish: the purple shrimp of Santa Margherita is extremely rare this year: «Nowadays, fishing is done at greater depths», says Pecis. «Whereas before the cold water was at 300 metres, now it’s at 700, and it’s not certain that fishermen can reach those
depths». Exactly the same thing is happening with the “alici di menaica” anchovies of Cilento. There are no alien species in Portofino, «it must be the currents, the temperatures or the rocky and immediately deep seabed. Here», he continues, «you find beautiful bottom-dwelling fish that live in the darkness of the abyss and have fatty flesh: chestnut fish, monkfish, muppa. Yesterday we had a 5-kilo sea bass, this morning a swordfish and a moray eel». He works with fish aged for one or two weeks, depending on the case, and relies on a relationship of trust with a curious and willing clientele, a fundamental element, explain Chiara Pavan and Francesco Brutto, who after Covid decided to work only with fish not sold on the market, produce from their own garden and invasive, alien or native species. Those who go to them know that even the moeche (small crabs) are blue crabs. Every week, they use up to 150 kg of blue crab and 60-70 kg of bluefish, which has been around here for a few years now – the Venice lagoon is a climate change hotspot – but in March, it entered en masse through the port mouths and then moved up towards the fresh water: «there was probably a selection process to better adapt to the increased salinity in the lagoon due to drought». Without a
predator, bluefish upsets the balance that ensures biodiversity. Its predator is man. Invasive and non-selective fishing methods destroy the ecosystem: they devastate Posidonia meadows and disrupt the food web with the bycatch of certain species, «such as turtles, which are antagonists of jellyfish», say the Venissa researchers. «Last year in Trieste there was a vast expanse of Pelagia noctiluca». Algae are also a problem: «many grow spontaneously in eutrophicated areas, where high concentrations of nitrogen and other nutrients alter river mouths». Here, alien algae proliferate, taking space away from native species and damaging the ecosystem. The arrival in the lagoon, about ten years ago, of the sea walnut (Mnemiopsis leidyi) also poses a threat to biodiversity as it feeds on plankton and larvae. «We thought the sea was an infinite resource, but now we realise that this is not the case, and it may be too late», says Lorenzo Ardizzone.
Oysters vs. crabs
The blue crab has also invaded the Apulian coast, reaching the salt lakes, historically home to clam and mussel farms, which have been affected by the heat, algae and attacks from the crustacean. In
recent years, something has changed: «Now it’s an area of oysters, which have a stronger shell that the crab can’t break», says Domenico Cilenti (Porta da basso, Peschici). The rhythm of the tides is simulated mechanically in the farms and the area has been reinvented, but the crisis affects all fish. «The oldest trabuccolante, who is 92, says that once upon a time, entire families were supported by trabucco fishing, but today this is no longer the case», and it is not only the heat’s fault. «In the Gargano, it has always been 35 degrees for at least one month a year, but everything else has changed: there is more tourism, more noise, more boats». Twenty years ago, there was also bluefish here: «We learned how to fillet and prepare it, because that’s what people who live by the sea do». Cilenti’s approach is still the same: he changes the menu according to the catch: «There’s the season for big fish, the season for smaller fish, the season for cuttlefish, murici and so on. We change the tasting menu as we go along». In short, we adapt. «Seafood cuisine cannot be a postcard from the past», says Ángel León. «It must be a tool to protect the future. And that means opening your mind, your palate and your heart. Cooking from what the sea is today, not from what the sea was today».
Calatroni: Pinot Noir Excellence in Oltrepò Pavese and the Sparkling
In 1964 grandfather Luigi bought the land that two generations of the Calatroni family have been working as sharecroppers. We began our venture producing traditional wines, but from 2002 on, under the guidance of brothers Cristian and Stefano, the focus has more and more shifted to Pinot Noir. We vinify the noble grape as a red wine and especially as white and rosé Traditional Method sparkling wines.
“The first vintage of our Traditional Method sparkling wines was in 2008. Right from the very beginning, we had a clear vision of the style of our Traditional Method: elegant, fresh, mineral bubbles, that must be the truest expression of the grape, of the soils where it’s planted and the peculiarities of the vintage” told Cristian.
”Today, grow about 28 hectares of organic vineyards, embracing sustainability as the core value of their philosophy of work. That’s why environmental, social and food sustainability issues have become more and more relevant to us over the years, inspiring a set of choices and practices” continued Stefano. We have always considered Traditional Method sparkling wines as the most rewarding challenge of his work. The growing awareness of the quality of the local Pinot Noir led us to acquire new vineyards. At the moment we own five Pinot Noir
vineyards in Versa Valley: each vineyard has its own peculiar identity, given by the nature of the soil, the orientation and the altitude.
All the grapes of Pinot Noir used for the production of our Traditional Method sparkling wines are harvested by hand in 20 kg plastic boxes to preserve them in perfect shape.
The grapes of each vineyard are vinified separately: in the single-vineyard sparkling wines (Poggio dei Duca and Riva Rinetti) it is possible to find the authentic expression of the vineyard and the vintage, while in the multi-vineyard ones you will appreciate the perfect balance reached through a precise blending of the base wines.
Poggio dei Duca 2019 has won the “Sparkling Wine of the Year” award in the Italian Wines Guide 2025: Traditional Method sparkling wine from Pinot Noir grapes grown in a vineyard located at an altitude of 540 m AMSL facing north, crossed by the historical Abbott’s Way: the three stylised abbots on the march featured on the label are a reference to that.
It’s possibile taste our wines and visit the cellar all day: we hope to offer you an insight into the Oltrepò Pavese region and its wine & food culture, to let you feel the passion that constantly fuels our love for wine and to share with you our vision and our dreams.
i centesimi
wines to pair with fried seafood
Crispy, golden and irresistible, fried seafood calls for fresh, savoury wines that can stand up to the richness of the dish without overpowering it.
Here is a selection of sparkling, white and rosé wines that elegantly enhance every bite, playing on acidity, minerality and aromatic finesse.
>RGC Valtènesi Chiaretto Cl. Fontanamora ’23 95
F.lli Turina Moniga del Garda (BS) Fontanamora captivates with its pale, bright pink colour. It is a wine of great complexity on the nose, offering small fruits and spices, smoky and mineral notes, and elegance. Composed, full and taut on the palate, it shows incredible freshness and textbook progression. 13,50
>Valdobbiadene Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Brut Col Credas ‘23
by William Pregentelli
Adami Spumanti Colbertaldo di Vidor (TV)
From the towers of Credazzo comes Extra Brut Col Credas, which explores the most hidden and fresh soul of the Treviso variety, with strong aromas reminiscent of Granny Smith apples and capable of conquering the palate with its decisive acidity. 19,80
>Tullum Pecorino Biologico ‘23 94
Feudo Antico Tollo (CH)
The Tullum Pecorino Biologico is always excellent: this year, the 2023 version has captivated us with its fresh notes of mountain meadows, green and yellow citrus peel and delicate hints of flint. It melts in the mouth with great precision on the palate, playing on citrus notes, and is deep with great progression. 15,90
>Colli di Luni
93
Vermentino V. Basse ‘23
Terenzuola Fosdinovo (MS)
The vineyards cultivated by Ivan Giuliani are spread across several areas: some are in the Cinque Terre appellation; others are in the Colli di Luni DOC, on the border between Liguria and Tuscany. The Vigne Basse ‘23 is very fragrant with citrus notes, a wine that enchants with its sapidity and mineral tension that gives character to its elegant structure. 14,80
92
>Circeo Bianco Innato ‘23
Villa Gianna Latina
Delizioso il Circeo Bianco Innato ‘23, da uve trebbiano, malvasia del Lazio e chardonnay, che al naso presenta sentori di fico d’India e cedro con sfumature floreali, per un palato sapido, piacevole e teso, articolato su una ricca base minerale. 15,50
92
>Rosato ‘23
Cenatiempo
Ischia (NA)
Pasquale Cenatiempo offers highly expressive wines that harmoniously blend tradition and drinkability. The excellent Rosato ‘23 has fresh iodine nuances amid notes of white cherry and raspberry. A wine with a mineral structure, it is flavourful and fragrant, rich in salty nuances and energy. 17
92
>Verdicchio
dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. Vito ‘23
Podere Vito Cardinali Morro d’Alba (AN)
Vito Cardinali is the owner of a new, stateof-the-art winery in Morro d’Alba. The winery impressed us with its Verdicchio Vito ‘23, which offers classic almond notes intertwined with hints of aromatic and medicinal herbs. The palate is rhythmic, harmonious and decidedly pleasant. 14,30
92
>Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Canayli ‘23
Cantina Gallura Tempio Pausania (SS)
Canayli is a true Vermentino that reflects the profile of the territory and the winery’s production. Its pulpy palate is accompanied by a bouquet ranging from acacia flowers to almonds, with hints of lemon peel and pear. The finish is savoury, with good freshness and length. 12,50
91
>Etna Bianco Aedes ‘23
I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna Solicchiata (CT)
The philosophy of Mario Paoluzi’s company, assisted by Salvo Foti, is encapsulated in its name. With 60% Carricante and the rest Catarratto, Grecanico and Minnella, Aedes ‘23 has mineral hints, smoky notes, exotic fruit and citrus, is savoury on the palate, still sharp with acidity and a lovely spicy pepper finish. 20
89
>Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut M. Cl.
Puiatti Romans d’Isonzo (GO)
The Blanc de Blancs is truly delightful: a Chardonnay-based sparkling wine with an aroma offering hints of white peach, jasmine and orange blossom. It is light on the palate with a creamy mousse and a finish that lingers on mineral notes. 20
Terre dell’Etruria is an increasingly impressive cooperative. The Brumoso Frizzante Ancestrale ‘23, made from Vermentino grapes, is a prime example. Immediately fragrant on the nose, it offers a delicious and lively drinkability that is hard to resist. 13,30
11 labels for grilled fish recipes
Grilled fish, thanks to its combination of smoky aromas and salty flavours, finds ideal companions in structured white wines and savoury rosés. Some light reds are also effective pairings: fresh, low in tannins and with good acidity, they balance the aromatic nuances of the dish.
by William Pregentelli
97
>Verdicchio di Matelica Cambrugiano Ris. ‘21
Belisario Matelica (MC)
For over 50 years, Belisario has been at the heart of wine production in the upper Esino Valley. The range is particularly impressive in the Verdicchio category, where the fascinating Cambrugiano ‘21 stands out, offering hints of citrus, stones, flowers and white fruits bound together by a subtle balsamic note that can be found on the palate, which is elegant, cohesive and full of complex nuances. 19,50
>Abruzzo Pecorino Giocheremo con i Fiori ‘23 96
Torre dei Beati Loreto Aprutino (PE)
Adriana Galasso and Fausto Albanesi continue to produce incredible wines year after year –ever since they founded their winery back in 1999 – thanks to their strong ties to the territory and the character and quality of their wines. The 2023 Pecorino Giocheremo con i Fiori is refined and sunny on the nose, taut, flavourful, graceful and linear on the palate. 15,30
95
>Collio Sauvignon ‘23
Tiare - Roberto Snidarcig
Dolegna del Collio (GO)
In 1991, Roberto Snidarcig and his wife Sandra decided to establish their own company, which is now one of the most prestigious names in the regional wine industry. Sauvignon is a sure bet, with its classic citrus notes of grapefruit and lime and tropical fruit flavours, resulting in a refined, elegant and flavourful wine. 20
95
>Lambrusco di Sorbara Brut M. Cl. Brutrosso ‘23
Cantina della Volta Bomporto (MO)
Among the various labels in Christian Bellei’s consistently solid and convincing range, Brutrosso ‘23 certainly stands out. This Metodo Classico spends little time on the pastry and expresses all the fullness of the Lambrusco di Sorbara fruit, with an acidic backbone that supports the overall richness of the palate. 15,60
94
>Greco di Tufo Cutizzi Ris. ‘22
Feudi di San Gregorio Sorbo Serpico (AV)
Feudi di San Gregorio’s Riserva Cutizzi ‘22 boasts extreme aromatic precision. In this Greco di Tufo, notes of light citrus and mown grass overlap against a slightly smoky background, before giving way to a clean, elegant palate with a decisive progression and captivating flavour. 17,60
94
>Lison Cl. 150 ‘22
Borgo Stajnbech Belfiore (VE)
The plain stretching from Venice towards Pordenone has always been one of the cradles of Tai, the grape variety that gives life to Lison. The Valent family is one of the most highly regarded producers of this Venetian wine, and the 150 is a white of absolute value. The yellow fruit is accompanied by salty notes and dried flowers, which are even more pronounced on the solid and juicy palate. 17,80
92
>Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Fonte
Cupa ‘23
Montori Controguerra(TE)
The 2023 version of Montori’s Cerasuolo Fonte Cupa is one of the most interesting in recent years thanks to its varietal character, which combines delicious fruitiness, cherry and ripe raspberries with intriguing hints of graphite and red flowers. On the palate, it is juicy and well-structured, yet agile and rhythmic. 14,70
91
>EstRosa ‘23
Pietraventosa
Gioia del Colle (BA)
Marianna Annio and Raffaele Leo manage almost 8 hectares of vineyards in the Gioia del Colle appellation, located on calcareous and clayey soils, rich in skeleton and mineral salts, at an altitude of about 380 metres. The Primitivo Rosato EstRosa ‘23 offers floral aromas with hints of iodine on the nose, while the palate is savoury, very pleasant but also well-structured. 16,80
>Riviera Ligure di Ponente Rossese ‘23 90
92
>Monreale Catarratto ‘23
Porta del Vento Camporeale (PA)
It was 2005 when Marco Sferlazzo decided to revive some old catarratto vineyards on the hills of Camporeale and cultivate them biodynamically. This wine, from a 50-year-old vineyard, offers pleasant aromas of cantaloupe, peach, dill, mint and chamomile. Fragrant on the palate, it is well balanced between acidity and fruit, with a lovely finish and a touch of white pepper. 18
Laura Aschero Pontedassio (IM)
Now run by Bianca Rizzo, the winery is located in the small village of Pontedassio, below the square, where the cellars are housed and where the grapes from the surrounding vineyards are brought. Pleasant hints of cherry, blackberry and a distant pink pepper in the Rossese ‘23, with a good character that offers harmony in a simple but intriguing body. 20
89
>Trentino Pinot Nero ‘22
Cantina Aldeno Aldeno (TN)
The Pinot Nero from this cooperative, which tends vineyards ranging from a minimum altitude of 160170 metres to around 700 metres, is very multifaceted in its bouquet and lively and crisp on the palate. It is easy to drink, with delicate tannins and marked acidity that is well integrated with the body. 14,10
Fish stews and where to find them
Seven thousand kilometres of coastline, dozens and dozens of fish soups and guazzetti
by Valentina Marino
There is an aspect of Italy that can be described in a deep saucepan, with the flavours of the sea, the scent of seaports and the ancient knowledge of fishermen. It is that side of Italy boiling in fish soups, a mosaic of local gastronomic traditions that for centuries have told the story of the country’s coastline through intense broths, noble offal and bread crusts steeped in the Mediterranean and Adriatic.
The journey along more than 7,000 kilometres of Italian coastline (including the islands) can start in the upper Adriatic, where every port boasts its own brodetto: the one in Grado, clear and delicate, is distinguished by the use of white vinegar and the absence of tomato. A few kilometres away, in Chioggia, the broeto is denser, made with small fish such as gobies, conger eels and cuttlefish, and scented with bay leaves. Further south, the typical dish of Fano (different from that of San Benedetto del Tronto, which requires vinegar) includes at least 13 species of fish and is lightly flavoured with tomato. Then we come across zuppa vastese on the Trabocchi coast, in the deep south of the Abruzzo coast, and further down the coast, the Rodiana del Gargano, and, once we reach Salento in Gallipoli and Lecce, the characteristic quatara.
In the central Tyrrhenian Sea, things get more daring. On the Tuscan coast, in a challenge between Livorno and Viareggio, cacciucco triumphs, strictly with 5 ‘c’s, a poor dish that has become a symbol of the coast: it is said that it was prepared with ‘at least five fish’ (one for each ‘c’ in the name), cooked in a thick red sauce, made vibrant by chilli
pepper and red wine. Served on toasted bread rubbed with garlic, it is a hymn to the recovery and layering of flavours. In Liguria, there is ciupin, while in Lazio, little known but delicious, there is zuppa alla civitavecchiese, where fresh tomatoes and cuttlefish are preferred, with a lighter but equally intense result.
And that’s not all. What about Neapolitan fish soup, where mussels, clams and scorpion fish come together in a sauce fragrant with garlic, parsley and cherry tomatoes? (In Ischia, sea water was once also used as a base). And what about Sicily?
The Trapani-style fish soup served with couscous, which many still “incocciano” (knead) by hand, is distinguished by the sweetness of ripe tomatoes and the presence of shellfish and molluscs, often enriched with chopped almonds, an Arab legacy that enhances the dish. In Syracuse, on the other hand, a white version is made with cuttlefish, almost primordial. Finally, in Sardinia, between Alghero and Cagliari, there are soups with eels and bottarga, and even burrida, made with dogfish and wine vinegar, prepared the day before to release all its intensity. Not to mention the Sardinian cassola from Cagliari.
Italian fish soups tell of seasons, boats, full nets and ancient hunger transformed into profound flavour. Every coast has its own voice, every rock its own recipe. And so, from north to south, maritime Italy can be savoured with a spoon. Here are some of these traditional soups and the best places to eat them.
>Boreto di Grado: the pale gold of the Upper Adriatic
In the heart of the Friuli lagoon, where the sea laps the streets of Grado, one of Italy’s oldest fish soups is born: brodetto gradese. It differs from other Adriatic variations in its extraordinary clarity and golden colour, which express the elegant simplicity of lagoon cuisine. Its origins lie in the life of the “casoni”, the huts of the lagoon fishermen: there, sheltered from the wind, they cooked whatever they caught, often small fish, bones, offal, shellfish, everything that the market rejected but that the fishermen did not waste. Brodetto di Grado is a perfect example of peasant cuisine, born of ingenuity and necessity.
ADDRESSES
Tavernetta all’Androna Grado (Go)
calle Porta Piccola, 6 0431 80950
androna it
Trattoria ai Ciodi
Grado (Go)
Porto Buso 335 7522209
PortoBusoaiciodi it
Its secret lies in gradual cooking that perfumes the broth in a unique way. Unlike almost all other Adriatic brodetti, it contains no tomato, only garlic, white vinegar and black pepper. When almost cooked, sometimes shellfish and molluscs are added, releasing their juices into the clear broth. It is served with slices of toasted bread or white polenta, according to local tradition. A delicate, almost ethereal soup that reveals the gentlest side of the Adriatic, with its silent lagoons, nets pulled at dawn and the humble wisdom of the fishermen of Grado.
Hotel Ristorante Marea Grado (Go) via dei Provveditori, 6 hotelmarea it 342 1893027
Alla Pace Grado (Go)
P zza duca d’aosta, 20 0431 81551
Al Pontil de’ Tripoli Grado riva G. GariBaldi, 17 0431 80285 alPontildetriPoli it
>Broeto di Chioggia: the solidity of the Venetian sea
In Chioggia, broeto is not just a fish soup, it is a dish that defines the local identity. It originated in the kitchens of boats and fish markets, in a fishing town that has made recycling and simplicity a virtue. Broeto is made with discarded fish, those that did not find a place on the stalls but are undeniably tasty and substantial. Compared to other Adriatic brodetti, the Chioggia version is more rustic and straightforward. There is no saffron, but a strong base made with fried onion, vinegar, tomato and extra virgin olive oil. The base is composed of gobies, conger eels, cuttlefish, small sole and, if available, monkfish.
The fish are cooked in sequence, from the
ADDRESSES
Casa Cappellari venezia calle larGa della donzella san Polo, 806 041 4587078 casacaPPellariristorante it
most substantial to the most delicate, to obtain a full-bodied and well-structured broth. It is not uncommon to find mussels or clams added at the end, but the oldest tradition excluded them. The flavour is intense, with the acidity of the vinegar balancing the sweetness of the tomato. In Chioggia, it is served with yellow polenta, not as a simple side dish, but as an integral part of the dish.
Broeto reflects a practical, no-frills cuisine, born out of necessity and transformed into a daily habit. It is still cooked today in homes, trattorias and during local festivals, testifying to the strong link between food and the lagoon’s seafaring tradition.
Osteria alle Testiere Venezia castello calle del mondo novo, 5801 041 5227220 osterialletestiere it
Valentino venezia fraz lido - via s. Gallo, 81 333 145 8315 ristorantevalentinovenezia it
La sgura chioGGia (ve) fondamenta maranGoni, 1295 041 403232 lasGura it
>Brodetto di Fano: the mark of the central Adriatic
Among the many fish soups that dot the Adriatic coast, Fano’s is one of the most representative. We are in the Marche region, on a stretch of coastline historically linked to fishing, where seafood cuisine has developed according to the seasons and what the sea offers each day.
Brodetto fanese is a codified dish: it is not improvised, but constructed according to precise rules. At least thirteen varieties of fish are required in the traditional recipe: weever, tub gurnard, cuttlefish, scorpion fish, but also squid, sole, ray and small fish. Everything is cooked in a large pan – the “tiella” – to prevent the fish from overlapping.
The main feature is the use of tomato, but in a light form: concentrate or purée is preferred, with a modest addition that does not overpower the flavour of the fish. The base starts with onion, garlic, white wine vinegar and extra virgin olive oil, then the fish is added in several stages, from the toughest to the most delicate, avoiding too much stirring so as not to break them up.
Brodetto di Fano is served with toasted bread or polenta and is also celebrated in local festivals. It is a dish that speaks of abundance, but also of balance: each ingredient must play its part without overpowering the others, in perfect harmony.
ADDRESSES
AlMare
fano (Pu) - via r ruGGeri, 2 0721 969727
www ristorantealmare it
Il Galeone all’Hotel Elisabeth Due fano (Pu) - Piazzale G. amendola, 2 0721 823146-347 9383785
www ilGaleone net
Alla Lanterna
fano (Pu) - fraz metaurilia
strada nazionale adriatica sud, 78 0721 884748
www allalanterna com
La Liscia da Ori feat Casa Orazi
fano (Pu) - via Giacomo Puccini, 2 0721 809781
www.casaorazi.it
Da Tano
fano (Pu) - via del moletto, 10 0721 823291
www.datano.it
>Brodetto alla vastese: the cuisine of the “trabocchi”
On the Adriatic coast, the definition of ‘brodetto’ is actually only generic, because, as we have seen, every region, area, province (and even every family) has its own recipe and its own cooking ‘rhythms’. Indeed, preparation is always a ritual, requiring knowledge of the characteristics and cooking times of the different types of fish used, a large, heavy earthenware pot that ensures slow heat distribution, and all the related accessories required by local tradition. In Vasto, and in general along the southern coast of Abruzzo on the border with Molise, also known as the Costa dei Trabocchi, “lu vrudatt” is prepared as follows: raw garlic and oil, Abruzzo pear tomato purée (and no sprinkling of vinegar as is done in the Marche region) and then cuttlefish first, followed after about ten minutes by ray, dogfish, monkfish, scorpion fish, cod and large sole, plus shellfish (scampi, prawns, mantis shrimp if in season), but no blue fish.
Cook for another twenty minutes over a low heat and finally add the mussels and clams and, with the heat off, a handful of chopped parsley. It is essential never to stir, and equally essential to serve with toasted homemade bread, but the best comes at the end. Custom dictates that a handful of spaghetti should be added to the remaining sauce and stirred in to enjoy every last drop of the delicious concentrated flavour of the sea left in the bottom of the pan. And after that, no dessert is needed...
ADDRESSES
L’angolino da Filippo san vito chietino (ch) loc marina via sanGritana, 1 0872 61632 flanGolino1891
Caldora Punta Vallevò rocca san Giovanni (ch) loc vallevò s s. 16 adriatica nord 0872 609185 fristorante-caldora-Puntavallevò
Trabocco Cungarelle
vasto (ch) - loc casarsa ss 16 adriatica Km 516+500 340 8629815
>Zuppa “alla rodiana”: the rural sea of the Gargano
On the Gargano promontory, where the mountains plunge into the Adriatic Sea and the trabucchi (traditional fishing platforms) dot the coastline, fish soup alla rodiana is a perfect blend of maritime and rural traditions. It takes its name from Rodi Garganico, one of the oldest and most charming villages in the area, with a past strongly linked to coastal fishing. This soup is distinguished by the careful use of simple ingredients and slow cooking that respects the raw ingredients. The fish used is mainly small: scorpion fish, weever, tub gurnard, cuttlefish, squid and small mixed fish. The base is made with garlic, onion, local extra virgin olive oil and ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped and left to stew. No stock is added: the flavour comes exclusively from the fish and its juices.
A distinctive feature of rodiana is the addition, in some versions, of thinly sliced potatoes, which absorb the juices and make the dish more complete. In other cases, a dash of vinegar or white wine is added to give the broth a lively flavour. The soup is served on homemade bread, toasted and often rubbed with garlic. The dish reflects the hybrid soul of the Gargano: land and sea, simplicity and flavour, a cultural background of survival. It is still prepared in many local families, especially in summer, and represents a bridge between past and present in a corner of Italy still tied to its slower rhythms.
Fra Stefano
Peschici (fG) via forno, 8 0884 964141
fristorantefrastefano
Trabucco da Mimì Peschici (fG) - loc. Punta san nicola 0884 962556
www.altraBucco.com
Trabucco di Monte Pucci Peschici (fG) s s. 89 345 8933151
ftraBuccodimontePucci
Il Trabucco del Pizzomunno
Vieste Palace vieste (fG)
lunGomare enrico mattei Km. 1 0884 708741
hotelPizzomunno it
Enoteca Vesta vieste (fG) via duomo, 14 0884 938096
www enotecavesta it
>Quatara of Porto Cesareo: fish soup from Upper Salento
On the Ionian coast of Salento, and in particular in Porto Cesareo, quatara is the fish soup par excellence. Its name derives from the large copper or wrought iron pot that fishermen used on board to cook unsold or undersized fish. Quatara is a communal dish, created to feed the crew, but today it has become a symbol of Lecce’s coastal cuisine. Its distinctive feature is the layering of flavours: each ingredient is added in a specific order to ensure harmonious cooking. It starts with a base of onion, garlic, parsley, olive oil and plenty of ripe tomatoes, often crushed by hand. Then the fish is added, starting with the more substantial ones such as cuttlefish, red mullet, scorpion fish and tub gurnard, followed by
ADDRESSES
Aqua de Le Dune Suite Hotel
Porto cesareo (le) s da dei Bacini, 89 0833 560660
aquaPortocesareo it
the more delicate ones such as sea bream or small mullet. Mussels, clams and shellfish are also added, if available.
An important detail is the use of sea water — now replaced with salt water — which makes the broth naturally savoury and gives it an authentic depth. When cooked, the soup is served hot with stale bread or local friselle, which soften in the liquid and absorb all the flavour of the fish.
Quatara is a dish that truly reflects the maritime nature of Salento: few frills, lots of flavour and a strong identity. Even today, it is the star of village festivals and fairs, where it is prepared in large quantities in large pots that evoke the communal origins of this dish.
Cosimino dell’Hotel Falli
Porto cesareo (le) via c alBano, 18 (riviera di Ponente) 0873 569076 www.hotelfalli.com
Solaris Porto Lapillo Porto cesareo (le) via achille Grandi, 62 328 0876341 www salentosolaris it
Lido Sottovento
GalliPoli (le) – Baia verde 348 3860129 www lidosottovento com
La Vecchia Osteria da Totu lecce v le francesco lo rè, 9 0832 308057 www lavecchiaosteriatotu it
>Trapanese-style fish couscous: Sicily meets the Maghreb
In Trapani, Marsala and on the Egadi Islands, fish soup takes the form of couscous: a dish that tells the story of the island, between port trade and the fusion of Mediterranean cultural backgrounds. It is the signature dish of western Sicily, so much so that it has its own famous festival.
The base is made from couscous kneaded by hand according to traditional methods: semolina is moistened and worked to obtain regular grains, then steamed in a couscous pot. The accompanying broth is the soul of the dish: an intense and fragrant mixture of mixed fish (scorpion fish, tub gurnard, soup fish, crabs, but also shellfish), onion, garlic, tomato, saffron, bay leaf and a pinch of cinnamon or
ADDRESSES
Cantina Siciliana traPani via Giudecca, 32 0923 28673 www cantinasiciliana it
Le Lumie marsala (tP) c da fontanelle, 178B 0923 995197
www ristorantelelumie com
cloves in some versions.
Once filtered, the broth is poured over the couscous just before serving, often accompanied by whole pieces of fish or seafood. The aroma is intense, the taste enveloping, with a slight sweet and spicy note that distinguishes it from any other Italian seafood soup.
Fish couscous is the result of centuries of coexistence and trade routes, a gastronomic synthesis between Sicily and North Africa that has become deeply rooted and local.
Even today, it is a dish prepared for special occasions, served during religious holidays or community events, a symbol of openness and identity at the same time.
Parrinello Pescheria e Cucina marsala (tP) via v florio, 5 392 0844887
ParrinelloPescheriaecucina it
Pocho
san vito lo caPo (tP) loc isulidda maKari s da Prov le 16 custonaci 0923 972525
www hotel-Pocho it
Salamureci traPani
P zza Generale scio, 17/18 0923 21728
www salamureci it
Sirah Ristorantino
san vito lo caPo (tP) 0923 972028 ristorantinosyrah it
>Syracuse fish stew: simple seafood in an Ionian sauce
In south-eastern Sicily, between Ortigia and the coast of Syracuse, fish soup retains a more essential profile than other island variations. The Syracuse version is distinguished by its quick, straightforward preparation, faithful to the logic of the “catch of the day” and with moderate use of tomato, leaving room for the natural flavour of the sea.
The dish originated in the ports and homes of fishermen, as a single meal to be eaten upon their return from fishing. The protagonists are local fish: scorpion fish, tub gurnards, red mullet, cuttlefish, squid, small mantis shrimp and occasionally shellfish. Unlike other brodetti, here the aim is not aromatic complexity, but the immediacy of flavour.
The base is prepared with garlic, parsley, extra virgin olive oil and freshly crushed or peeled tomatoes. Sometimes a little white wine is added, but the alcohol is allowed to evaporate so as not to alter the delicate profile of the soup. The fish is added in several stages, depending on the cooking time, and is never stirred: the pot is simply shaken, as is customary.
The result is a clean soup with a clear, ambercoloured broth, in which each type of fish retains its own distinctive flavour. It is served with toasted stale bread, and in some variations it is accompanied by lemon or orange slices, to recall the citrus profile typical of the area.
This soup is an authentic example of Syracuse cuisine: dry, linked to the season and the sea, capable of saying a lot with few ingredients and adapting to the catch of the day.
ADDRESSES
L’Ancora siracusa via Perno, 7 0931 462369 ristoranteancora com
La Darsena siracusa
riva GiusePPe GariBaldi, 6 331 3422000 fladarsenasiracusa
Don Camillo siracusa via maestranza, 96 0931 67133 ristorantedoncamillo it
Mamma Iabica siracusa via Perasso, 3 339 4531731 www mammaiaBica com
Sorelle a Mare siracusa
loc ortiGia - lunGomare alfeo, 13 0931 1380163
ADDRESSES
Antico Francischiello da Peppino massa luBrense (na) via PartenoPe, 27 081 5339780
www francischiello com Osteria da Antonio via a. dePretis, 143 081 5510138
www osteriadaantonio com
Azzuppa Restaurant naPoli via vincenzo Bellini, 15
>Neapolitan fish stew: intense and theatrical local flavour
Neapolitan fish stew is one of the most expressive dishes of Campania's maritime tradition. Originating in the working-class neighbourhoods overlooking the Gulf, it has established itself as a symbol of a cuisine that knows how to transform even scraps into riches, thanks to the skilful use of tomatoes, garlic and chilli peppers. It is a stew with strong flavours, designed to impress and satisfy.
The recipe varies depending on the catch, but always includes a generous assortment of cuttlefish, squid, scorpion fish, weever fish, small octopus, clams, mussels and sometimes prawns and crabs. It starts in a casserole dish with extra virgin olive oil, plenty of crushed garlic, parsley and piennolo tomatoes, which give it the typical sweetness of the Vesuvian coast.
A distinctive feature of the Neapolitan version is the use of chilli pepper, which gives it a spicy kick without overpowering the taste of the sea. Dry white wine is also added to deglaze the pan, and everything is cooked fairly quickly to prevent the fish from falling apart.
The soup is served piping hot with homemade bread, often toasted, but in some cases it is also accompanied by short pasta or broken spaghetti, transforming it into a rich, one-course meal. A final sprinkling of fresh parsley is always added.
This recipe is deeply rooted in the popular cultural background, present in the taverns of historic neighbourhoods such as Borgo Marinari or Santa Lucia, and cooked in homes during the end-of-year festivities, when fish returns to centre stage. Neapolitan soup perfectly reflects the spirit of the city: strong, passionate and generous.
081 18286964
www.azzuPPa.it
Trattoria Castel Nuovo naPoli
P zza francese, 42 081 5515524
fcastelnuovotrattoria La Catagna
Bacoli (na) via Pennata, 50 328 1679431
‘A Figlia d’’o Marenaro naPoli via foria, 180 081 440827
www.afiGliadomarenaro.eu
Ieri, oggi, domani naPoli via nazionale, 6 081 206717 ierioGGiedomani it
Mimì alla Ferrovia naPoli via a d’araGona, 21 081 5538525 mimiallaferrovia it
Zi Teresa naPoli
BorGo marinari 1 081 7642565
www ziteresa it
>Cassola: mixed soup from southern Sardinia
In the panorama of Italian fish soups, Sardinian cassola represents the maritime voice of the south of the island, particularly the area around Cagliari. The name derives from the Spanish word “cazuela”, meaning casserole, and reflects the Iberian influence on Sardinian cuisine, especially during the Aragonese period. Cassola is a generous dish, designed to make the most of every part of the local catch, and is still a staple of coastal tradition today.
There is no single recipe: it varies from family to family and from village to village, but the basic structure remains the same. Whole fish (red mullet, scorpion fish, tub gurnard, sea bream) are used, along with shellfish (cuttlefish, squid) and crustaceans (scampi, prawns, crabs), depending on availability. The base is prepared with olive oil, garlic, onion, fresh and concentrated tomatoes, parsley and sometimes a pinch of chilli pepper.
A key step is the preparation of a broth with the fish scraps (heads, bones, shells), which is then filtered and added to the soup to enhance the flavour. Cooking takes place in several stages: first, the base is flavoured, then the fish and shellfish are added in order of consistency, so as to keep their flavours and texture intact.
Cassola is served hot, with slices of toasted bread or carasau bread, which absorbs the broth and sea aromas. In some cases, it is completed with chopped potatoes or saffron, which gives it a typically Sardinian touch.
A convivial and hearty dish, cassola is served at Sunday lunches and seafood festivals in the Cagliari area, bearing witness to Sardinia’s deeprooted maritime culinary tradition.
ADDRESSES
Sa Piola caGliari
vico santa marGherita, 3 070 666714 - fristorantesaPiola
Luigi Pomata caGliari
via reGina marGherita, 18 070 672058 - luiGiPomata com
Stella Marina di Montecristo caGliari
via sardeGna, 140 347 5788964 - fstellamarinacaGliari
Lo Zenit caGliari
villaGGio Pescatori - v le Pula, 2 070 250009 - ristorantezenit.it
>Burrida from Cagliari: the dogfish becomes noble
Burrida cagliaritana is a cold soup – or rather, a marinated dish – that occupies a place of its own in the southern Sardinian recipe book. Unlike classic hot and broth-based soups, burrida is served at room temperature and is based on a cooking and preservation method that has its roots in the world of fishermen and the concept of cooking with leftovers.
The star ingredient is gattuccio, a small shark common in Sardinian waters, with firm, flavourful flesh. It is cleaned, skinned and gutted, boiled in salted water and then left to cool. Separately, a sauce is prepared using the fish's livers, white wine vinegar, garlic, parsley, capers and chopped walnuts: an intense, rich condiment that binds the meat to the deep flavour of the sea and a very characteristic hint of acidity.
ADDRESSES
S’Anninnia Gonnesa (su) via iGlesias, 105 0781 45132 fstellamarinacaGliari
Once ready, the fish is sliced and layered in a terracotta bowl, covered with the sauce and left to rest for at least 24 hours. Time is essential: it allows the aromas to penetrate the meat and create a balance between the saltiness, acidity and sweetness of the fish. It is served as an appetiser or main course, often accompanied by carasau or civraxiu bread.
Despite being a simple dish, burrida has a complex gastronomic profile. It is a dish that reflects the ingenuity of Cagliari's fishermen, who are able to enhance less prized species using ancient techniques. It is still served today in trattorias and homes, especially during popular festivals and family celebrations.
Sa Cardiga e Su Schironi caPoterra (ca) loc la maddalena sPiaGGia 070 71652 sanninnia it
Leopardi caBras (or) via G. leoPardi, 53 389 7620863 fleoPardicaBras
Taverna Bonora caGliari via sassari, 52 380 2323203 www tavernaBonora com
>Civitavecchia fish soup: the Lazio sea in a deep dish
The Lazio coast has a long seafaring tradition that is reflected in the cuisine of its port towns. Among these, Civitavecchia boasts one of the most characteristic fish soups in the central Tyrrhenian Sea. Less well known than the big names on the Italian scene, Civitavecchia soup is a historic dish, an expression of the popular cuisine of local fishermen.
The preparation starts with a classic sauté of garlic, onion and parsley, flavoured with extra virgin olive oil. Ripe tomatoes are then added – today often peeled or chopped – which form the base of the sauce. The fish varies according to the catch of the day: scorpion fish, tub gurnard, cuttlefish, squid, mantis shrimp and small sea bream are preferred, but shellfish such as prawns and mantis shrimp are always included.
A distinctive feature of the Civitavecchia version is the aromatic note given by dry white wine, which is added at the beginning, and the use of local wild herbs, such as catmint or wild fennel, in some family variations. The result is a thick, fragrant broth with a much-appreciated balance between acidity and sweetness.
It is served on slices of toasted homemade bread rubbed with garlic, often placed directly on the bottom of the plate to collect the broth and fish juices. It is not uncommon for it to be proposed as a single dish in generous portions. Civitavecchia fish soup has now been revived in many restaurants in the port, thanks to a new focus on authentic local cuisine. It is a dish that tells the story of Civitavecchia's quays, returning boats, hand-pulled nets and families who cooked with whatever they had, transforming very little into flavour.
ADDRESSES
La Bomboniera civitavecchia (rm) via G. marconi, 50 0766 25744
laBomBoniera info
Er Corsaro tarquinia (vt) strada sant’aGostino snc 339 8862972 www ercorsaro it
v.le Giosuè carducci, 39 0586 402367 laBarcarola it
Buonamico viareGGio (lu) via sant’andra 27 0584 943266 trattoriaBuonamico com
>Tuscan caciucco: the duel between Viareggio and Livorno
Whether the chicken or the egg came first, we cannot know. What is certain is that between Viareggio and Livorno, the broth is filled with less and less small fish and more and more noble fish. In cacciucco, the differences are now determined by the increasingly delicate stomachs of diners, with Versilia tending towards delicacy in both taste and colour, banning bones and parts that make tasting less pleasant. The latter are essential in making the broth, which is less liquid than the Livorno version (now protected by De.Co). The latter is characterised by its intense red colour and flavour, one of the symbols of Tuscan seafood cuisine. However, cacciucco, in all its variations, originated as a poor man’s dish, the result of the imagination of fishermen who used everything the sea had to offer but had no commercial value. The name has uncertain origins: according to some, it derives from the Turkish “küçük” (small), emphasising the mixture of small fish. Others trace it back to a dialect term meaning “mixture”. In any case, the dish has evolved into a codified preparation with a very strong identity.
The base is a tomato sauce enriched with garlic, chilli pepper, sage and extra virgin olive oil. Everything is cooked slowly in the same pan until a thick, flavourful sauce is obtained. Tradition dictates that at least five different types of fish are used, one for each “c” in the name. The dish is served on slices of stale bread, toasted and rubbed with garlic. The bread is not an accompaniment but an integral part of the dish: it soaks up the sauce, absorbs the flavours and completes the experience.
Il Buonumore
viareGGio (lu) via marco Polo anG viale caPPoni 339 6920936 fBuonumoreristorante
Da Miro alla Lanterna viareGGio (lu) via m. coPPino, 289 0584 384065
ristorantedamiro com
La Perla del mare san vincenzo (li) via della meloria, 9 0565 702113
laPerladelmare it
Pesce Baracca forte dei marmi (lu)
v.le franceschi, 2 0584 1716337
PesceBaracca it
Pesciolino Briaco via sant’andrea anG via vesPucci 0584 1533023
PesciolinoBriaco.it
La Pineta BiBBona (li) loc la marina via dei cavalleGGeri nord, 27 0586 600016
laPinetadizazzeri it
Osteria La Torre di Populonia PiomBino (li) fraz. PoPulonia 0565 1953110
osteriatorrediPoPulonia it
Trattoria Il Sottomarino livorno via terrazzini, 50 0586 887025
fanticacacciuccheria
>Ciupin ligure: the frugal soup of western Genoa
Ciupin is the Ligurian answer to traditional fish soups, particularly in the area of Sestri Levante and the Ligurian Levante. Less well known than cacciucco or brodetto, it is nonetheless equally important for understanding the seafood cuisine of the Riviera. The name seems to derive from the verb “ciupar”, meaning to soak, referring to the gesture of dipping bread into the broth.
It is a simple dish, created to make the most of less prized fish: small rock fish, bones, poor cuts, anything that was left unsold or discarded at the market. The essence of ciupin lies in its ability to concentrate flavour with very little. The base is made with garlic, onion, parsley, olive oil and peeled tomatoes. The fish are cleaned and cooked in a saucepan to flavour the broth,
ADDRESSES
Quelli dell’Acciughetta
Genova
c so a. Podestà, 51r 010 2363323
acciuGhetta.it
which is then filtered to remove bones and fish bones. In many versions, this is then thickened and enriched with pieces of more tender fish, or simply poured over slices of stale bread, preferably homemade and toasted.
Ciupin is not a showy soup, but a simple dish, perfectly in keeping with the austerity of Ligurian cuisine. Today, it has been rediscovered in traditional trattorias and taverns and is often served in terracotta cocottes, reminiscent of old boat pots.
Ciupin closes the circle of a coastal Italy that has been able to transform necessity into gastronomic culture. A journey that starts with recovery, passes through identity and arrives, today, at the enhancement of memory.
Paolo e Barbara sanremo (im) via roma, 47 0184 531653
PaoloBarBara.it
Polpo Mario sestri levante (Ge) via XXv aPrile, 163 0185 480203
PolPomario com
Da Ö Vittoriö recco (Ge) via roma, 160 0185 74029
www.daovittorio.it
Agri-food and sustainability: it’s now time for decisions
Sustainability is no longer an option, it is a necessary direction. And if there is one place where this awareness has taken shape, data and voice, it was the Global Summit 2025 ‘Sustainability: a growth factor for companies in the agri-food sector’, held on 5 June in Milan and organised by the Gambero Rosso Foundation in partnership with Intesa Sanpaolo. The stage was shared by economists, agronomists, bankers, producers and representatives of institutions, united by a common urgency: to transform the agri-food sector into an economic model capable of facing the future. A future that not only cannot ignore competitiveness and sustainability, but which, precisely in the relationship between these two aspects, must draw strength to implement a healthy growth model based on ESG values (remember, the acronym for three fundamental concepts: Environmental, Social, and Governance). Lorenzo Ruggeri, editor-inchief of Gambero Rosso, is right to talk about love for the future “for the next story, for the next victory, for those who, despite their fears, continue to rewrite reality. It is not just a question of sensitivity, it is also a question of sustainability, one of the most powerful communication tools we have”. However, sustainability means applying it, combining quality, competitiveness and value. This is reiterated by Paolo Cuccia , executive vice president of the foundation, who deliberately uses the concept of pragmatism: “Business needs
Gambero Rosso Foundation and Intesa Sanpaolo Global Summit 2025: without sustainability, business is impossible. “We need growth that puts people and territory at the centre.”
concrete action: it must look at its balance sheets and take action. Sustainability therefore also becomes an economic concept. It is possible, even if difficult. But without the economy, there is no autonomy. Businesses must also be sustainable in order to survive”.
FIGURES AND CHALLENGES IN THE AGRI-FOOD SECTOR
After all, today even the financial system recognises and incentivises sustainabilityoriented choices, as emphasised by Anna Roscio , Executive Director of Sales & Marketing for Businesses at Intesa Sanpaolo’s Banca dei Territori Division: ‘Investing in a sustainable transformation process means that a company gains a competitive advantage and strengthens its leadership. As a Group, we support the Italian business fabric by making a concrete contribution to building a greener future that values Italian manufacturing and human capital. To this end, we have allocated € 10 billion to Italian agri-food supply chains to provide dedicated solutions tailored to the specific characteristics of individual products.” The point is that being sustainable pays off. Although there are still many shadows – the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation is causing more concern than those faced during the pandemic – the path to sustainability, seen as an investment and no longer just a cost, is becoming increasingly
clear. This is what emerges from the analysis presented by Stefania Trenti , head of industry & local economies research at Intesa Sanpaolo’s Research Department, which highlights strengths and weaknesses: Italian food products are resilient and competitive in terms of exports, but still lack environmental sustainability: «According to our analysis, based on Istat data, only 25% of agri-food companies monitor their water consumption,» Trenti specifies, «and only 20% use energy from renewable sources or recycled materials. This is a big difference from the green image that Italian-made products keep showing to the world». But the same data tells us that there’s a lot of potential: Italy has lower greenhouse gas emissions than the EU average (33 tonnes per employee compared to over 50 in France and Germany) and companies that invest in organic certification achieve better economic results (between 2019 and 2023, turnover growth for companies without organic certification stood at 22.4%, while it reached 28.6% for certified companies). The industry is concerned about energy, raw materials and semi-finished products costs, and climate change, but a good 20% of responses collected by Intesa Sanpaolo in a survey of its relationship managers also highlight that the deterioration in domestic demand and collection difficulties remain crucial issues. However, solutions to the difficult economic situation come from sustainability, «because the food and wine world
is specialising in self-production of energy and efficiency gains in processes», explains Trenti.
THE IMPORTANCE OF A SYSTEMIC APPROACH
Shadows remain on the horizon. US tariffs, uncertainty over monetary policy and energy costs could slow down investment. Some companies are postponing strategic decisions, while only a minority, which is then rewarded by results, is adopting proactive strategies. In this context, sustainability can no longer be an ancillary lever, but a genuine industrial policy. This is explained by Massimiliano Cattozzi , Head of Agribusiness at Intesa Sanpaolo’s Banca dei Territori Division: «Companies with sustainable certifications are more inclined to export and better able to attract the best talent, because young people are more oriented towards working in sustainable environments. Finally, they can count on greater attention from consumers, who are increasingly willing to spend more on a certified product.»
In September 2023, Italy raised the bar on its international commitments by signing a national sustainability strategy at the UN Summit. The goal was ambitious: to accelerate the achievement of the SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals) of the 2030 Agenda through an integrated, interministerial plan. In particular, there was talk of a “transformation” involving key sectors such as sustainable agriculture, which has historically lagged behind other indicators. However, months later, good intentions have not translated into concrete action. According to Enrico Giovannini , scientific director of ASVI S - the Alliance for Sustainable Development - the lack of consistency between the policies adopted is one of the main obstacles: «Our report, published on 7 May,” explains Giovannini, ‘reaffirms the need for an integrated vision: energy transition, renewables, revision of regulatory instruments and strengthening of the circular economy. Not just theory. Manufacturing companies that have believed in sustainability have already recorded a 16% increase in added value.»
AGRICULTURE AND DATA: BETWEEN DEMONISATION AND INNOVATION
During the summit, trade associations addressed the issues of scientific research and crop protection products. Ettore Prandini , president of Coldiretti, spoke on the latter point: «In recent years, some European policies have
demonised agricultural practices without any real scientific basis. In reality, Italian agriculture has reduced emissions. We need to use scientific data correctly, avoiding harmful generalisations, especially when it comes to plant protection products, whose use should be based on necessity and research, not on ideological dogma.» Knowledge then goes hand in hand with expertise, and here the head of Coldiretti highlights other needs, such as technical training, adequate infrastructure and people who are prepared to support businesses in global markets. Luca Brondell i, vice president of Confagricoltura, is not far from these positions, highlighting the lack of structural agricultural policies, which have been at a standstill for 50 years: «While the concrete support of agriculture 4.0 needs to be taken seriously,» explains Brondelli. He is referring to TEA, or Technologies for Sustainable Agriculture (modifications to plant DNA starting from the plant’s own genetic heritage), which, according to Confagricoltura’s number two, are unfairly mistreated: «Unfortunately, part of the population has not grasped the significance of this innovation, which could avoid the use of treatments in agriculture, as demonstrated by the destruction of experimental rice and wine fields last spring. These acts of vandalism go against sustainability».
LEARNING TO COMMUNICATE CERTIFICATIONS
It is now well established that Expo 2015 in Milan, dedicated to food and nutrition, represented a turning point for Italian food and wine: Italy stood out for the quality and naturalness of its ingredients, its expertise in processing and traceability, factors that have brought high added value to Italian agriculture. Today, ten years after the event, according to the speakers at the summit, the message is clear: the country must continue to harmonise research and tradition in order to offer sustainable products of excellence, and certification plays a key role in this context. The experience of Equalitas, for example, as recounted by its president Riccardo Ricci Curbastro , shows that a non-mandatory but authoritative label can be a real driver towards sustainability: «Certified companies,» explains Curbastro, «demonstrate more efficient use of resources, greater investment and growing employee satisfaction.» This belief is shared by Angelo Riccaboni , president of Santa Chiara Lab, a research centre/spinoff of the
University of Siena dedicated to sustainability and competitiveness for SMEs and agri-food businesses, who cites Equiplanet, the new certification reserved for agri-food businesses –in practice the equivalent of what Equalitas is for wine – created through collaboration between Santa Chiara Next and Valoritalia.
THE VOICE OF BUSINESSES: PRACTICES, CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES
A concept that came up a lot was human sustainability , meaning caring about the dignity of work, growing skills, and having good relationships within the company. It was clear that young people are increasingly judging companies based on their social and environmental impact, and that companies need to become places where people can grow together, both professionally and personally. From northern to southern Italy, the testimonies gathered at the Summit offer a concrete insight into how agrifood companies are addressing the challenge of sustainability with strategic vision and measurable actions.
Auricchio , a long-standing player in the dairy sector, described the internal transformation it has undergone through the centralisation of data and the creation of a corporate function dedicated to sustainability, with a focus on human wellbeing thanks to the EquiPlanet project. In Puglia, the Muraglia oil mill has shown how predictive models and DSS (Decision Support Systems) can regenerate not only the soil but also work, aiming for a 15% reduction in working time. Arborea , with its project in the protected area of the S’Ena Arrubia pond in Sardinia, has integrated innovation, digitalisation and environmental management, valuing data not as an end in itself but as a lever for building virtuous relationships between agriculture and the territory. Rigoni di Asiago , a pioneer in organic farming, presented a mature model of 360° sustainability, ranging from the circular economy to cogeneration, social responsibility and the use of waste in cosmetics. In the world of wine, Cantina Curbastro emphasised the importance of more effective communication on sustainability, supported by scientific tools such as environmental DNA to certify biodiversity. All these experiences demonstrate how a regenerative approach, based on technology, governance and social impact, is redefining the competitiveness of Italian agri-food products.
Global Summit Sostenibilità 2025
gamberorosso.it/sostenibilita
wine
Exile wine
The only two labels produced on the island of Ventotene are a manifesto of passion, resistance and redemption
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
It takes two hours by boat from Formia to reach Ventotene. The smallest of the Pontine Islands is a destination that does not reveal itself immediately, unspoilt, with wild features and a mysterious backdrop that makes it even more attractive. This small island in the middle of the Tyrrhenian Sea, just under three kilometres long, is essentially flat and has one constant feature: the wind. Surrounded by sea on all sides, there are no barriers to curb its energy. ‘In winter, there are about 300 residents, but in summer, the number can reach 5,000. However, it is quality tourism, especially this year. After all, you don’t exactly arrive in Ventotene by chance,’ smiles Luigi Sportiello, born in 1992. He decided to stay on the island because of the wine. His tenacity is responsible for the island’s only winery, Candidaterra, run in collaboration with an inspired oenologist,
Vincenzo Mercurio. Just under two hectares of volcanic soil and a story that began by chance, like all serious things. «It all started one evening in October, with my father Modesto, over a bottle of Passito di Pantelleria. I had finished high school but didn’t want to continue my studies, I didn’t even know what a vine looked like. But we had the land, we looked at each other and said: let’s give it a try. All young people want to escape from the island, we chose a reason to stay». Luigi personally oversees all the work, dividing his time between the port, where his brother Ercolino works, and the vines. «Today, it’s as if I have 4,000 daughters. I’ve developed a passion for it, and if they let me, I’ll plant another hectare next year», continues Luigi. Since 2022, the wine has been bottled in the micro-cellar, just under 100 square metres in size
>At the table
Il Giardino via Olivi, 45 - 0771 85020
La Terrazza di Mimì p za CastellO, 5 - 392 202 7003
Un Mare di Sapori via pOrtO rOmanO, 3 - 0771 85292
Mast'Aniello via CalanOne - 0771 854007
– typical of Ventotene – and from next year, cellar tours will also be available, with a couple of tastings of the island’s wines.
A humanist oenologist
The first person to believe in the project was Vincenzo Mercurio, a longtime winemaker with a broad vision: «This is more of an anthropological project than an oenological one. Here, wine is not made just to sell: it is made to stay». Mercurio is someone who observes, studies and smells. Even before tasting the grapes, he wanted to learn about the history of Ventotene. He read books about the island’s confinement, walked among the cells of Santo Stefano and spoke to those who lived on the island before tourism. «There was hunger here, people bartered: fishermen exchanged baskets for vegetables. It wasn’t folklore, it was survival». After the initial idea of sweet wine, Mercurio and Sportiello
decided to opt for Campania grape varieties for the production of dry wines. Three varieties coexist in the two plots: «Greco gives acidity, Fiano gives floral notes, and Falanghina gives freshness and sapidity. Together, they form another language: it’s a Ventotene slang, which embodies the sea, the wind and that incredible light that you can only see here», explains Mercurio, who warmly invites us to return to the island out of season to rediscover all its magic. The name of the main wine is Pandataria, like the island before it became Ventotene, from the Greek meaning “dispenser of all good things”. It is not a blend: it is a unique vinification, different every year, of Fiano, Greco and Falanghina. Only two plots, the smallest of which is 30 metres above sea level.
«People always talk about minerality, but here you can smell the iodine everywhere. On mistral days, it hits your skin, the leaves, your mouth. It’s not a question of contamination but of direct contact. It’s a wine that cannot be replicated elsewhere», continues Mercurio. The first planting was in 2013, the first bottle went on sale in 2019, and today total production is around 10,000 bottles. It has been an uphill struggle: «These have been years of hard work, bureaucratic red tape, spare parts arriving months late from Formia, but since 2024, sales have started to pick up. We are getting a lot of satisfaction out of it. We always believed in it, even when we told ourselves we were crazy», says Sportiello proudly. Seventy per cent of the wine is consumed directly on the island, where it is one of the main
attractions, from the excellent wine bar with kitchen on the harbour (Un Mare di Sapori), where you can also buy the island’s exceptional tiny lentils, to bars and restaurants. Although at the beginning, as Luigi tells us, the project was met with curiosity but also a dose of mistrust. «We are from here. But it’s never easy to be a prophet in your own land. In the end, however, it is becoming a source of collective pride. At least for many», he corrects himself. And his bottles bring the name of this small island far and wide throughout Italy and beyond. Enthusiasts have realised that this is not just any white wine: it is a message in a bottle, a story of redemption. And, above all, in terms of quality, standards have been achieved that were truly impressive and unimaginable just a few harvests ago.
A manifesto for wine
The production range is completed by a Charmat method wine from Fiano, produced according to tradition, i.e. not every year, and, above all, from the 2022 harvest, an even rarer white wine: Manifesto. The name refers directly to the island’s avant-garde movement, its rich cultural heritage and the precious document written by Altiero Spinelli and Ernesto Rossi in 1941, which laid the foundations for European integration: “For a free and united Europe. Draft manifesto”. A document to which the territory of Ventotene undoubtedly contributed: the air, the light, the power of the soil, its flavours, its otherworldliness. The wine in question? It is a cru from the vineyard, Sportiello explains, where the volcanic soil gives way to clay. The varieties are always Fiano, Falanghina and Greco, but the character is very different from its sibling Pandataria, which is more serious and profound. It seems to have, at least in its aromas, a shy, reflective character, a bit like the atmosphere
of the island. «This is an island that always keeps a low profile, just look at Luigi or the other residents». And you only need to travel around the island a little to meet iconic characters, starting with Fabio and his bookshop Ultima Spiaggia in the town square, with its incredibly curated selection of books on maritime literature and its tasteful and courteous presentation. But what really makes this island special? Sportiello sighs for a few seconds.
«Ventotene is an island that has remained an island. There are no buses and few cars. Culturally, we are Neapolitan, open and sociable, so I would say we are not very islanders». His family has been on the island since the late 19th century, when they had sailing ships and a tradition handed down from generation to generation. We discover that until the 1960s, the area cultivated with vines was much larger in Ventotene, but then the inhabitants abandoned it to take up more lucrative and less laborious activities
The hot-air balloon race
On 20 September 2025, the highlight of the Feast of Saint Candida, patron saint of Ventotene, returns, and with it the most iconic image of the island: paper hot air balloons taking flight from the Town Hall square. It is a collective ritual that combines faith, art and lightness. Each balloon – or pallò – is handmade from tissue paper, decorated with unique symbols and colours, then inflated with fire and released into the night sky. Seeing them fly freely and then fade and fall into the sea under the starry sky of Ventotene is an unforgettable experience. The tradition, which originated in Naples, dates back to the 19th century and continues to thrive thanks to the efforts of the island’s young people. Since 2011, the festival has been recognised as part of Italy’s cultural heritage. It is a moment of escape and dreams, adding even more flavour to this tiny island of less than 2 square kilometres.
linked to tourism. Yet, despite the development of recent years, the atmosphere is still intact and there is plenty to inspire. Starting with the disused Bourbon prison on the island of Santo Stefano, a natural setting that looks like it was designed by a cruel director: cells arranged in a circle with the guard in the centre. The island, inhospitable to say the least, is a treasure trove of stories, letters, escapes, political visions and European dreams. Back to Ventotene, where producing wine means experiencing first-hand the limits, the absence and the hard work. It also means choosing not to leave, while everyone else goes away or perhaps returns for a couple of weekends a year. In the end, it remains a manifesto for the entire wine sector, a symbol of a viticulture that is stronger than tourism, logistical pitfalls and economic difficulties. A marine wine, graceful and full of identity.
The taste of the island in 2 wines
93
>Manifesto 2023
Candidaterra
Ventotene (LT)
This is the part of the vineyard with the highest concentration of clay. Unlike Pandataria, it is shy on the nose. Pure and rocky, it releases hints of aniseed, broom and iodine in the glass. The palate is something else: rich in pulp, juicy and flavourful with hints of medlar and citrus zest. The salinity is pressing. Refined: only 1,000 bottles. 38
91
>Pandataria 2023
Candidaterra
Ventotene (LT)
Light and expressive, immediate in its tones of white melon and fennel. The palate is fresh, perfectly modulated, unfolding with class between balsamic tones and a whispered minerality, from start to finish. Fiano, Greco and Falanghina complement each other in a compelling sip. It has little density but a finesse and character that are simply unique. 26
Pure identity: the philosophy of Tenuta di Arceno’s single-varietal wines
There are approximately 112 hectares of vineyards owned by Tenuta di Arceno, divided equally between Sangiovese and Bordeaux varietals. The vineyards are located in the southern part of Chianti Classico, in Castelnuovo Berardenga, just a few minutes from Siena. This viticultural heritage is immersed in a natural landscape rich in biodiversity, protected by surrounding woods that help preserve its balance. These thirty years of production have been a long and continuous journey of studying our territory», says Pepe Schib Graciani, Global Brand Ambassador of the estate.
The vineyards span an altitude range from 300 to 650 meters above sea level, with soils that vary from sand and galestro to pebbles. This diverse topography, articulated in almost 100 individual plots, allows for the cultivation of different grape varieties, each capable of authentically expressing its full potential.
Tenuta di Arceno embodies two worlds: on one hand, the tradition of Sangiovese, which tells the story of the heart of Chianti Classico; on the other, an international vision with varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, which give voice to the territory through a contemporary lens. The estate was acquired in 1994 by Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke, founders of Jackson Family Wines. A turning point came in 1997 with the arrival of Pierre Seillan and in 2002 of Lawrence Cronin. A
new chapter began, marked by in-depth research, micro-zoning, and a focused enological vision. It was in this context that micro-parcels were identified, which today form the backbone of the estate’s production.
«It was a crucial transition, which now allows us to focus on single-varietal labels that can purely express the potential of our land», Graciani explains. This philosophy is embodied in wines such as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Strada al Sasso, Arcanum - which became a pure Cabernet Franc starting with the 2016 vintage - and Valadorna, a 100% Merlot.
«It would be easier to rely on blends of different varieties to harmonize the best characteristics of each grape. But the challenge of single-varietals pushes us to maximize the value of each grape, expressing the deep identity of the estate», says Graciani.
The work of observation and experimentation continues, driven by a vision that constantly looks to the future. In 2024, the estate introduced Rosambra, an elegant rosé made from Sangiovese, and new projects are already underway, including a Chardonnay label grown at 650 meters above sea level, expected in the coming years.
«We never stop. We’re looking into amphorae and considering the introduction of large casks alongside the French oak barriques. It’s still too early to talk about new labels, but many ideas are evolving».
Crazy angels
The hard work and magic of winemakers on small islands
by Marzio Taccetti
Vineyards overlooking the sea, constant breezes, ancient vines. But that’s not all. There are several aspects that link the plots of the small islands, from the terraces of the Aeolian Islands to the vertiginous slopes of Giglio: extreme conditions, difficult life, heroic viticulture. To quote Veronelli, it is the world of the “angeli matti” (crazy angels), protagonists in territories off the beaten track where wine is a way of life. Before being an economic choice.
Natural laboratories
The islands are an exceptional natural laboratory. Biodiversity and unique agricultural practices offer other worlds in the glass, worlds that are distinctive and surprising. The encounter between contrasting elements — intense light, volcanic or rocky soils, tempera-
ture variations, constant winds — gives life to bottles with an unmistakable profile, often unconventional, capable of thrilling from the very first sip. No, it’s not just storytelling.
Real life
Behind the wines of the small islands are winemakers who work in silence, an agricultural world that often has to fight to make room for itself amid tourist excesses and operational difficulties. There are stories of resilience, of children returning to their fathers’ land, of laborious harvests to produce a handful of bottles. Yet, even with all this, there is great charm and character. Drinking a wine from the islands means choosing a strong identity, a specific landscape, a history that often
goes against the grain. It is a way of remembering that in wine, as in life, it is the most difficult conditions that produce the most interesting characters.
On the dry side
Constants? We see a clear and distinct trend: sweet wines are becoming increasingly dry. Whether we are talking about Muscat or Aleatico, versions designed for drinking throughout a meal are growing rapidly. The small islands have been able to interpret the demands of the market, adapting grape varieties and production styles. We have selected eight labels, eight worlds: these are the basic glasses to start discovering the extraordinary variety that these wines have to offer.
Small islands told through 8 wines
94
>Verticale ‘22
Vigne di Mare Stromboli (ME)
The nose tells the story of the island of Stromboli: scents of iodine-rich air, Mediterranean scrub, floral notes and smoky lava rock that recall the soil in which the vines have their roots. The palate reveals intense peach flavours intertwined with mineral notes, almonds and sea salt. An intense and rare wine 42
93
>Grotta dell’Oro ’23
Hibiscus Ustica (PA)
A wine that seduces as soon as you put your nose in the glass. The delicate aroma of tropical fruits, citrus, helichrysum, anise and lavender is combined with hints of Mediterranean herbs and mineral notes. The palate is lively and elegant, with good structure and a clean finish with pleasant nuances of green almond. 30
92
>Súlana ’23
La Mursa Capraia (LI)
A pure Grenache, the nose plays on fresh notes of raspberry, cherry and strawberry, enriched with floral notes of rose and violet. On the palate, it reveals structure and liveliness, with juicy fruit, delicate spices, well-integrated tannins and bright acidity. The long, harmonious finish combines energy with promising ageing potential. 40
93
>Biancolella ’23
Antiche Cantine Migliaccio Ponza (LT)
The sea and its scents connect this Biancolella to Ponza. In the glass, you find the characteristics that define the island, with a nose that smells of Mediterranean scrub, caper flowers, citrus fruits and white fruits. On the palate, the wine is described as savoury and iodine-like, with a full-bodied and crisp texture and a remarkably long finish. 35
92
>Faro
della Guardia Biancolella ’23
Casale del Giglio Latina
Pure Biancolella grown on the steep slopes of Ponza. Iodised and marine aromas provide the backdrop for a texture of white flowers, citrus fruits and Mediterranean scrub. On the palate, it is savoury, with a fine minerality that directly recalls its place of origin, but it is the vertical freshness that gives it energy and brightness on the palate. 35
92
>Ansonaco ‘22
Altura
Isola del Giglio (GR)
From a terraced vineyard of about 3 hectares, Francesco Carfagna, a former maths teacher, produces an orange wine that expresses the potential of the island of Giglio. The aromas range from saltiness and Mediterranean scrub to orange peel and dried apricot. The palate is taut with a tannic grip that gives it structure and complexity. 45
91
>Capri Rosso ‘20
Masseria Frattasi Bonea (BN)
From a centuries-old ungrafted vineyard on the island of Capri, this red is a blend of Aglianico, Piedirosso and native black grapes. On the nose, liquorice, violet and blackberry distinguish an intense bouquet. The palate is no less impressive: creamy and pulpy, with well-extracted tannins. A wine with charm and character and a very well-rounded finish. 180
90
>Strulli ’23
Cantina Parasole
Isola del Giglio (GR)
Strulli is Milena Danei’s orange wine, created in 2018 on Giglio. The grape variety used is Ansonaco, which macerates for 5-7 days on the skins and matures in steel. In the glass, it is a wine with iodine and salty aromas enriched by notes of apricot and sage, with elegant tannins that give structure and depth. 30
55
Tre Bicchieri in Singapore: A Grand Italian Event in the Garden City
by Marco Sabellico
In just a few years, Singapore has transformed from an emerging market into a pivotal hub for one of the world’s most significant wine markets: Southeast Asia. This vibrant region, home to over 600 million people and a burgeoning young middle class, is projected to become the world’s fourth-largest economy by 2030. Market analyses indicate that revenue from alcoholic beverages in Southeast Asia is expected to grow by approximately 10% from 2023 to 2027, underscoring the region’s evolution from
emerging to essential. As a regional trade center, Singapore offers an unparalleled environment to unite the purchasing power of Southeast Asia - encompassing Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia, and the Philippines - under one roof.
Amidst the grand festivities of Vinexpo Asia 2025, one of the most eagerly anticipated events was the Tre Bicchieri by Gambero Rosso, featuring some of Italy’s finest producers on May 28 at the Sands Exhibition & Convention Center. This
day dedicated to exceptional wines attracted a remarkable turnout of industry professionals and enthusiasts alike, opening its doors at 11 AM and witnessing record attendance until 6 PM.
Two highlights of the day included an extensive masterclass on the Special Awards from the Gambero Rosso Wine Guide, led by Marco Sabellico, the guide’s curator, which drew over 60 journalists, sommeliers, and industry operators. Following this, the Award Ceremony for the Top Italian Restaurants in the World
by Gambero Rosso took center stage, at the presence of the Italian Ambassador, Mr. Dante Brandi. Few cities globally can boast such a wealth of outstanding Italian restaurants as Singapore, which saw 18 establishments honored, ranging from classic pizzerias to Italian-style pastry bars, not to mention wine bars and fine dining venues.
It was indeed a resounding success, with Garibaldi, a delightful wine bar restaurant boasting an impressive cellar, earning the coveted Tre Bottiglie. Additionally, two exceptional restaurants, recognized among the best in the world for their quality, received the prestigious Tre Forchette from Gambero Rosso: Buona Terra, led by Chef Denis Lucchi, and Somma, where Chef Mirko Febbrile works alongside Vincenzo Donatiello in the dining room. Somma’s exquisite cuisine was perfectly complemented by a remarkable selection of wines, earning it the Top Contemporary Wine List Award by Villa Sandi, presented by Diva Moretti Polegato, co-owner of the renowned Venetian winery.
Prosecco Doc shines in Singapore: Italian Effervescence meets Asian Charm
The partnership between the Prosecco DOC Consortium and Gambero Rosso marks yet another success.
The Gambero Rosso World Tour once again made its mark in Singapore on May 28th with a Special Edition of the Tre Bicchieri Tour during Vinexpo Asia 2025. The event proved to be another triumph, evidenced by the strong turnout of industry professionals, communicators, and sommeliers within our spaces.
The highlight of the day was a packed masterclass, organised in collaboration with the Prosecco DOC Consortium. For nearly two hours, a large audience of professionals deepened their understanding of this exceptional Italian sparkling wine, a symbol of freshness and vitality. Prosecco DOC is renowned for its ability to naturally complement not only traditional Italian dishes but also a wide range of international cuisines, including Asian fare. Its elegance, fine perlage, and delicate aromas allow it to respect and enhance diverse flavours and fragrances. This versatility makes it especially well-suited to integrate seamlessly into local dining rituals, offering a surprisingly harmonious and innovative tasting experience.
The masterclass also explored the unique characteristics of the DOC’s terroir -its mineral-rich soils and ideal climate- that impart Prosecco with its unmistakable aromatic profile. Production techniques, strictly regulated by the Consortium, ensure consistent quality and adherence to tradition. Participants embarked on a tasting journey through various styles, sampling five distinguished labels: San Simone, Ruggeri, Viticoltori Ponte, Val d’Oca, and La Marca.
The Special Corner dedicated to Prosecco DOC was an overwhelming success, captivating wine lovers and industry insiders alike, while providing significant growth opportunities for the companies involved in this key Asian market.
Gambero Rosso Returns to Bangkok
by Marco Sabellico
It was a grand comeback that marked the arrival of the Top Italian Wines Roadshow in Bangkok on June 4th. After a few years of absence, a formidable team of sixty producers welcomed a large and enthusiastic audience at the Dusit Thani hotel in the capital. The familiar script unfolded at 10 AM with the start of the first masterclass led by Marco Sabellico, the guide’s curator, followed by two more sessions until 4 PM, all packed with passionate wine lovers, educators, sommeliers, and industry professionals. The walk-around tasting
kicked off at 2 PM, initially reserved for trade members, and continued until 7 PM after being opened to the public. The atmosphere that our producers encountered was particularly vibrant: the past years have seen significant growth in the wine sector. The increase in imports, the opening of specialized wine bars, and the rising appreciation for wine among younger generations have become constants. Wine consumption is on the rise, thanks to the abolition of excise taxes by the Thai government in 2024, aimed at boosting tourism and economic growth. Italy plays a crucial role in this narrative, with our exports—led, of course, by Prosecco—trailing only France and Australia, securing a commendable third position. This growth is mirrored by the flourishing Italian restaurant scene, which is reflected in the wine lists of both casual and fine dining establishments. “This is a market with great potential - declared Federico Cardini, president of the Thai-Italian Chamber of Commerce, which collaborated on the event - The presence of Italian wine operators in this market could be a fundamental factor in this growth”. “The event was a success,” confirmed Giacomo Iobizzi, the Chamber’s Secretary General. “Thais love Italy, as evidenced by the many new Italian venues opening and the increase in imports. Our country remains a symbol of lifestyle, art, nature, gastronomy, and beauty, exerting a profound allure. Thailand, also a major tourist destination, shares all these aspects with us.”
Top Italian Restaurants Awards
The highlight of the event was the Award Ceremony for the Top Italian Restaurants in the World guide, which recognized a remarkable 24 Italian establishments, ranging from Italian pastry shops like Dolcetto to cocktail bars that uphold the ritual of “apericena” like Capricci, as well as pizzerias, wine bars, and fine dining restaurants. “Few capitals in the world can boast such a rich Italian gastronomic scene,” said Italian Ambassador Paolo Dionisi, “and with such promising prospects.” This statement held particular significance as just two days prior, the embassy had hosted a spectacularly crowded gastronomic event for the Festa della Repubblica, which has become a classic in the Thai capital. The most prestigious accolades of the guide, the coveted Tre Forchette, were awarded to two restaurants: the elegant and sophisticated Clara, led by chef Christian Martena, and the delightful and refined Volti at the Shangri-La Hotel, helmed by chef Bruno Ferrari. Among the outstanding establishments, we also highlight Acqua, led by chef Stefano Frau, which received Tre Bottiglie. Acqua not only boasts an exceptional cuisine but also the richest selection of wines in Thailand, earning it the Top Contemporary Wine List award from Villa Sandi.
Back to the North
Italian Wine to Celebrate Midsommar
by Marco Sabellico
On June 9th, the Tre Bicchieri 2025 tour made a stop in Stockholm, basking in the enchanting atmosphere of Midsummer, when the sun seems to linger forever in the sky. It was a jubilant celebration of Italian wine, eagerly anticipated by Swedish
enthusiasts who filled the halls of the Moderna Museet, adorned with contemporary artworks, on the picturesque island of Skeppsholmen, right in the heart of the city. From 1 PM to 6 PM, the language spoken was that of wine, as our finest producers engaged with
industry professionals, Systembolaget officials, and the press at the event’s debut, before opening the doors to the countless wine aficionados who traveled from across the country (and even from Norway and Denmark) for the most significant Italian wine event of the year. While volumes in this crucial
market have seen a slight and steady decline, in this last few years revenues have grown by an average of 2-3% annually. “Consumers are increasingly gravitating towards the premium and super-premium wine segments - those reviewed by Gambero Rosso - and they
Amarone at Midnight. In Stockholm
June 9th was a memorable day for wine lovers in Stockholm. On the Tre Bicchieri event organized by Gambero Rosso, Bertani hosted an exclusive gathering dedicated to a select audience of enthusiasts, industry professionals, and wine communicators.
The setting was Spesso Terrassen, one of the most charming venues in the Swedish capital - a rooftop in the heart of Malmskillnadsgatan that celebrates the excellence of Italian cuisine while offering a breathtaking view over the city. Amid the enchanting atmosphere of Midsommar, an exceptional Masterclass took place, led by Alberto Lusini, CEO of Angelini Wines & Estates - of which Bertani is now a part - Marco Sabellico, editor of the Guida Vini d’Italia, and Pietro Riccobono, technical director of the historic Veronese winery. A passionate journey that led the audience deep into the soul of Bertani, a symbol of Valpolicella winemaking since 1857 and today one of the most prestigious names in Italian wine.
The tasting featured some of the winery’s most iconic labels, beginning with the fresh and refined Soave Vintage 2024, followed by the elegant Cru Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ognisanti di Novare 2023. The highlight of the event, however, was the extraordinary vertical tasting of Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Bertani, with bottles sourced directly from the winery’s legendary Library - a true vault of historic vintages preserved in perfect condition.
The selected vintages - 1967, 1975, 2005, and 2015 - were opened and described with insight and passion by Riccobono and Sabellico.
“I was truly impressed,” said Mathias Gade, wine writer and leading voice at Gourmet, Sweden’s top gastronomic magazine. “Bertani’s Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a monument of elegance and complexity. You feel it in the historic vintages like 1967, but also in more contemporary expressions such as the Soave and Ognisanti. It was a close and inspiring encounter with an extraordinary winery, rich in heritage and always at the pinnacle of quality.”
From 8pm, the event evolved into an elegant after-hours gathering at the exclusive TETTO space, with a walk-around tasting of Bertani’s finest wines, paired with gastronomic creations by Desirée Jacks - the creative soul behind Spesso and one of the brightest stars of Sweden’s contemporary culinary scene.
A truly unique experience, blending great wines and haute cuisine, which under the “midnight sun” turned into a celebration. A tribute to the magic of Midsommar and to the timeless style of Bertani.
know that Italy offers a variety of styles and types unmatched anywhere in the world, with an unbeatable price-toquality ratio,” shared Mathias Gade, wine writer and the visionary behind Gourmet, Sweden’s leading gastronomic magazine.
Among the day’s highlights was the extraordinary masterclass featuring the 12 Special Award wines from Vini d’Italia 2025 paired with an exceptional partner: Asiago Dop cheese. Marco Sabellico, curator of Vini d’Italia, and Luca Cracco from the Consortium paired five different Asiago cheeses of varying agesfrom Fresco to Stravecchio - with the twelve wines of the seminar, ranging from sparkling wines to whites and aged reds, including the OP Pinot Nero Poggio del Duca di Calatroni, Alto Adige Sauvignon Gran Lafoa by Colterenzio, and Trentino’s San Leonardo, among others. “A fantastic experience of taste,” remarked Börje Ekberg, food and wine expert and reporter. “A good pairing elevates both elements in a captivating way: and Asiago is a magnificent cheese!” “It was a true workshop,” said Luca Cracco. “Asiago is well-known in Sweden, but by exploring the concept of pairing with wine, we added a new dimension, one that was fresh to many consumers. The result was fascinating!”
It was indeed a special day, where the sun never seemed to set, embodying the allure of Swedish Midsommar!
The main sponsor of the event was the exquisite mineral water Smeraldina, sourced from the pristine springs of Sardinia.
Top Italian Restaurants Awards
As in every stop, Gambero Rosso awarded the best Italian restaurants from its Top Italian Restaurants in the World guide. Stockholm certainly has much to offer, with an impressive sixteen gourmet addresses earning the guide’s coveted red plaque. Establishments like Trattoria Montanari, Capannone, Trattoria Corazza, and Macelleria were honored with Una Forchetta, while the vibrant wine bar and bistro scene saw Corvina Enoteca, O’ Pizzicato, L’Avventura, Adria, and Restaurant Portofino awarded Due Bottiglie, the latter also securing the prestigious Best Contemporary Wine List Award by Villa Sandi for its extensive wine selection. The pizzeria scene is equally lively in Stockholm, with six establishments receiving the recognition of Due Spicchi: Magari, 450 Gradi, Eataly Pizzeria, Bara Vedugnspizza (which translates to “only pizza baked in a wood-fired oven…”), Giro Pizzeria, and The Italian Cousins. We conclude our review with Mancini, a long-standing emblem of excellence, where the tradition of great Italian cuisine has been celebrated since 1978, thanks to Claudio Mancini, chef Domenico Lobina, and Giancarlo Clark, who oversees the dining room and the prestigious wine cellar. This is the best Italian restaurant in Sweden and among the finest in the world—Tre Forchette.
A toast between Poland and Italy
by William Pregentelli
After a few years away, the Gambero Rosso tour returned to Warsaw with a stop on the Vini d’Italia roadshow. And it seems that Poland missed us, judging by the large crowd that filled the hall of the Reduta Banku Polskiego, the charming venue that hosted the event on June 13. The wineries present in Warsaw offered a comprehensive snapshot of the Italian wine landscape: from north to south, nearly every region was represented, showcasing both prestigious appellations and lesserknown native grape varieties that sparked the
curiosity of attendees. An attentive and inquisitive audience – made up of industry professionals, importers, sommeliers, journalists, and wine lovers – had the opportunity to taste a selection of producers featured in our Guide, meet the winemakers in person, and delve into the stories behind each label. After all, Italian wine is enjoying a good moment in Poland: data from recent years confirm that Italy is the leading supplier, thanks to a mix of characteristics that only our country can offer — centuriesold history, incredible variety, and quality at a fair price. But the desire for all things Italian can also be felt in the realm of gastronomy. Warsaw loves Italy. And above all, it loves Italian food. During the same event, Gambero Rosso took the opportunity to honor the best Italian restaurants and pizzerias in Warsaw, recognizing the dedication and quality of those who continue to uphold the Italian culinary tradition in the Polish capital with passion and expertise. Additionally, the restaurant Le Braci received the special Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List Award, thanks to a smartly curated wine list that combines Italian great classics with emerging artisanal winemakers who are making a name for themselves. The awards were presented to a selection of venues that stood out for the authenticity of their offerings, the quality of their ingredients, the level of service, and their ability to represent Italian food culture at its best abroad. In a city where Italian cuisine continues to grow and gain recognition, these restaurants confirm themselves as true ambassadors of taste and tradition. The culture of fine drinking served as a bridge between Italy and Poland, once again confirming the strength of a winemaking heritage unlike any other. A true success that reinforces Gambero Rosso’s role as a global ambassador of Italian wine excellence.
Elegance in pink: Valtènesi speaks to the heart of Warsaw
The Dolce Vita of Valtènesi enchanted Warsaw thanks to a masterclass held by Juri Pagani, director of the Valtènesi Consortium, and William Pregentelli, co-editor of the Vini d’Italia Guide, during the Vini d’Italia tour stop on June 13, hosted at the Reduta Banku Polskiego.The rosé from the Lombardy shore of Lake Garda sparked the interest and curiosity of a discerning and attentive audience: the eight wines tasted offered a comprehensive picture of this elegant and captivating rosé, floral, savory, and mineral. The most curious attendees also had the chance to explore other wine varieties offered by this magical area thanks to a dedicated Valtènesi corner within the walk-around tasting. An opportunity for promotion and storytelling that confirmed the international potential of Valtènesi rosés and the growing interest in Italian wines that combine typicity, elegance, and a strong connection to their territory.
Gambero Rosso on the Thames
by Giuseppe Carrus
On 17 June, London hosted the final leg of the Gambero Rosso Wine World Tour 2024/2025.
Here’s
how one of Europe’s most important Tre Bicchieri events unfolded
in a country where Italian wine exports are worth €850 million.
Summer seemed to have arrived here already, and a clear sky and pleasant temperatures welcomed the finest Italian
wines to London, which, despite all the uncertainties characterising this period in history, has lost none of its dynamism and sparkle. On 17 June, at the Horticultural Hall, a beautiful event space in the heart of the capital, dozens of Italian companies offered journalists, importers, restaurateurs and wine merchants a taste of both the wines awarded in the Guida Vini d'Italia 2025 and new wines ready to be released on the market. The London event was a special occasion: on the one hand, it marked the end of the 2024/2025 tour, and on the other, it was a real preview of new products in a market where Italian wine exports have been growing for several years.
Italian wine exports to the United Kingdom
The United Kingdom is one of the main European markets for Italian wine. In 2024, the value of wine exports grew compared to the previous year, reaching €851 million, with a 2% increase in value and 2.8% in volume. These figures are mainly driven by sparkling wines, which recorded a 5.8% increase in volume, in addition to bulk wine, of which the UK is the main importer. David Williams, master sommelier and consultant to several leading restaurants in the capital, tells us: 'Italian wine is increasingly
appreciated, but while in the past it was mainly low-cost wine that appeared in wine bars and restaurants, now there is no shortage of prestigious labels and the British are beginning to take an interest in niche products, those linked to unknown DOCs and indigenous Italian varieties, the true heritage of your country. The world of Prosecco obviously drives exports, especially sparkling wines, but here too something is changing: Italian Metodo Classico wines are increasingly appreciated, from Alta Langa to Franciacorta, passing through Oltrepò Pavese and Trento, thanks in part to a culture of this type of wine stimulated by increasingly good English Sparkling Wines, which, however, provide a good reason for comparison with the most prestigious Italian sparkling wines.
In fact, we heard Williams' words during the event itself. Many people arrived at London's Horticultural Hall, a beautiful Art Deco building in the city centre. As mentioned, the Italian companies present offered tastings of both the wines awarded Tre Bicchieri in the latest edition of the Guide and the new wines presented at recent international European trade fairs. It was therefore a real preview that allowed British buyers to get an idea of the new wines to import from now on.
The event also featured a masterclass on the Special Awards of the 2025 Guide. This was an exclusive tasting of the 12 awards that are the real highlight of the publication. The class was led by Giuseppe Carrus, one of the three editors of the Guide, and featured the Ferrari winery for an initial toast. One of its awardwinning Trentino wines opened the proceedings, for a toast with one of the most prestigious wineries in our country, especially when it comes to the Metodo Classico. Numerous restaurateurs were in attendance, also drawn by the award ceremony for Top Italian Restaurants, the digital guide that recognises the best Italian restaurants in the world.
The best of Italian cuisine in London
A total of 20 establishments have been awarded in the British capital, a real record and a sign that London is proving to be one of the cities where you can eat the best Italian food. Gone are the days when the sign “Italian Restaurant” was just a lure for customers. Nowadays, typical ingredients, inspiration from Italian tradition and high-quality preparation are the order of the day. The award-winning establishments are divided into restaurants, pizzerias, wine bars and, new this year, cafés, which are awarded one, two or three croissants. Three establishments received awards: Mileto Cafè, Popham Bakery and Capilungo. Among the wine bars, Passione Vino and Satyrio are confirmed winners, while Ciro Salvo’s 50 Kalò, the London branch of the famous Neapolitan restaurant, which ranks among the best pizzerias abroad, is a must for pizza lovers. Let’s move on to the restaurants. There are two important new additions: Pinna Mayfair, owned by Sardinian Achille Pinna, has been awarded Due Forchette, as has Locatelli, which welcomes its guests in the famous National Gallery. Last but not least, at the top of our ranking, is Pollini at Ladbroke Hall, run by the talented chef Emanuele Pollini. He has established himself as one of the best Italian chefs in the world.
Miglior Cantina Bio emergente 2024
Eleonora Bianchi
travel
The vegetable revolution you weren’t expecting
Domingo Schingaro, agricultural fine dining and the paradox of Borgo Egnazia
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
C for chicory, not caviar. We repeat this to ourselves as we interview Domingo Schingaro, born in 1980 in Bari, who has been in charge of catering at Borgo Egnazia in Puglia since 2016. He returned to Savelletri, among the olive trees of the Itria Valley, after working in London, Bangkok and northern Italy. “When I left twenty years ago, there was nothing here. No five-star luxury hotels. And very little open-mindedness when it came to food.”
Today, styles – especially those associated with luxury – are changing rapidly. “We can express our identity in the kitchen without mimicking the usual stereotypes. Let me give you an example: people ask me for wagyu beef? I serve gnumareddi. But at La Frasca, our trattoria. At Due Camini, our gourmet restaurant, we no longer serve meat: only vegetables.” His fine dining is agricultural. Technical. Contradictory. It perfectly encapsulates the evolution of a large part of Italian and international haute cuisine, which is rewriting its production models and tapping into new sensibilities. The customers? Italian, but above all foreign. They come here from all over the world. And they expect Champagne, caviar, polished lobsters. «Every now and then someone is disappointed, “I was expecting something more refined,” they say. But then they taste it. And they change their minds». When you arrive at a resort built from scratch – as Borgo is often described – you think of it as a plastic operation. But the substance lies in the way a place is inhabited. “Identity is also built in a new place. It is not a birthright. We decided not to compromise.”
The new Apulian cuisine
Schingaro does not raise his voice. He has a lower profile than many of his more boisterous colleagues. But in a landscape where everyone talks about identity and then serves courgettes in December, his cuisine carries real weight.
The tasting menu? It’s there, but he doesn’t recommend it. “I prefer people to choose from the menu. Each vegetable has three representations: a main dish and two side dishes. That way you understand our philosophy. That way you get into the work that goes into it.”
One day the star is the onion, another day it’s the tomato, another day it’s chicory. “A dish made today may not be the same in three days’ time. The varieties change, the ripeness changes, everything changes. It’s an unstable cuisine, but it’s alive. And we keep up with it through continuous
work. You can’t impose your own timing on vegetables. You have to respect theirs”.
The dishes feature vegetables grown in-house or selected from small producers. This year, 250 types of tomatoes alone were planted. “I don’t put them all on the menu, of course, but I choose the ones that work at that moment. Two days more or less of sunshine and everything changes. The taste changes.” Even the chicory comes from three different areas of Puglia. One is sweet, one is crunchy, one makes your tongue tingle. “It’s a way of letting people taste the difference that the market has tried to erase.”
Vegetables are no longer just a side dish
“We have always focused on vegetables. Even when we had fish and meat on the menu, vegetables were the majority.” The turning point came with
Executive Chef
Domingo Schingaro
La Calcia, Borgo Egnazia’s summer bistro, designed to offer a green and relaxed alternative. “We served 60 covers a night. When I saw that it was working, I closed that and brought everything here to Due Camini.”
The leap was not only productive, but cultural. In a region where the idea of vegetables in a restaurant still often equates to a plate of grilled aubergines, choosing vegetables as the centrepiece is a risk. “At first, some people got angry. They didn’t understand. Now we see more curiosity, more openness. But it takes patience. And consistency.”
Technique is also important. A lot.
“We work every part of the plant. We ferment, toast, cook sous vide, reduce, smoke. But not to show off how
good we are. Because if you want to bring out the flavour of a leaf, you have to cut it right, use the right temperature, know how to keep it alive.”
The signature dish? Crazy wheels with onion. A dish that looks simple. But it’s actually not. “A very thin sheet of pasta dough, rolled into a spiral and stuffed with red onions from Acquaviva cooked for twelve hours. Inside there is also a toasted vegetable base, smoked butter and a hint of acidity to balance it all out.”
The wheels are steamed, then baked in the oven and finally regenerated in a pan. “It’s a dish that doesn’t seek to surprise. But it stays in your mind. You could eat a tonne of it.”
The prejudice of the Apulian customer
The most unexpected compliment came from a customer from Puglia. “A local, who knows the region, but had never been here before. He thought it was the usual posh place, with grandmothers in the window and bottles costing 600 Euro.”
Pepper Due Camini Restaurant
Once a customer asked, “Can I kiss my wife after this onion?” Schingaro replied, “Of course. But then she’ll never be able to pull away.” He laughs about it, but he knows that the point is not the joke. It’s the recognition. “If you can make a memorable onion, you’ve hit the mark.”
Then he had dinner. And he wrote a post. “The dishes are not international at all, as one might expect. They are Apulian, clean in taste and deep in perception. They surprise and satisfy both the most authentic locals and the most seasoned gourmets. In life, it’s nice to be proven wrong, because you realise how prejudice makes animals blind and ignorant.”
“I showed it to the whole team. I said: maybe we don’t realise it, but we’re making a small revolution.”
The challenge is to rewrite the concept of luxury. No longer the
rare product, but the right product. “The time you devote to a leaf. The broth made from scraps. The chicory grown in the hills. That’s luxury.” Breakfast follows the same logic. Two versions, one Apulian and one international. “No salmon. We use trout. We buy it raw, marinate it and smoke it. We make our own bacon from black pigs from Lucania. The same goes for the cooked ham. The cakes are cut into small slices to avoid waste.”
Who complains the most? “Often Italians. Foreigners are more curious. More willing to be guided.”
Looking for a trattoria
The paradox is that today it is easier to find an authentic dish in a luxury restaurant than in a trattoria. “In Piedmont, even the most remote bistro makes homemade ravioli. In Puglia, they just open a packet.” Schingaro does not hold back: “Most trattorias don’t cook. They boil. Turnip greens? Always the large variety, which yields a lot and tastes of little.
Apulian breakfast at La Frasca Restaurant
But no one says anything. Because it’s cheap, it lasts a long time, and it doesn’t cause any problems.” When we ask him if Apulian chefs form a group among themselves, he pauses for a moment. We shift our attention to what needs to be done. “Puglia has an infrastructure problem. It’s a long, narrow region with no highspeed rail and areas that only come to life for three months of the year.” The Itria Valley is holding up. Bari too. But in the Gargano and coastal Salento, everything is still too tied to the season. “If we don’t deseasonalise, we won’t create a system.” And the restaurant industry, says Schingaro, must take responsibility. “Not just towards the customer. Towards the territory. Vegetables are our strength. We can’t treat them as a filler.” A tomato, he says, must possess umami. “It must make you close your eyes and say, “What the hell is this stuff?”
A gastronomic system
Borgo Egnazia is a small gastronomic system, designed for every moment of the day. It starts with La Frasca, an authentic trattoria that serves an authentic Apulian breakfast in the morning: Altamura bread, nodini cheese, buffalo mozzarella, broad beans and chicory. A vast buffet, no folklore. At lunch and dinner, the menu remains simple and seasonal, with fairly reasonable prices that are surprising in a place like this. Cala Masciola, overlooking the sea, is the realm of fish: raw, caught daily, cooked in salt or on the grill. You choose what to eat and how you want it cooked. The restaurant works because it focuses on customer satisfaction. In the centre of the village there is a good pizzeria and the Porticato, which serves Apulian cuisine with a twist, but not quite at the same level as Due Camini. All the restaurants share an extensive local wine list: around 350 bottles are opened every day, 60% of which are from Apulia, including Susumaniello, Nero di Troia, Verdeca and Ottavianello. Coordinating everything is Giuseppe Cupertino, the group’s wine manager. A new large wine cellar has also recently been opened under the Due Camini restaurant: 3,500 bottles, with an impressive range of vintages from Italy and France. This is a significant investment, which shows how important wine is here.
