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Just open it
Lorenzo Ruggeri
“I’m at the restaurant. Which wine should I order?” It happens more and more often. A phone call, a text message, maybe even just a whispered voice message. Always the same tone. It’s not just about the price –although the price is important, and not just a little. It’s the fear of making a mistake. Of being judged by the waiter, by the other diners, even by oneself. It’s that feeling of not being good enough. As if ordering a bottle meant passing a private law exam.
If choosing a wine in a restaurant today causes anxiety, then something has gone wrong. Or perhaps worse: we have explained too much or too little. Too many words, too many technical terms, layers of expertise that keep normal people at bay, those who live their lives without saying “Kimmeridgian” every day at 6 o’clock while thinking about the soils of the Aube. Wine has become a language for initiates, a relic to be observed from the other side of the glass. And paradoxically, the more we talk about it, the less we drink it. And there are those who are ashamed to ask for “a fresh white wine that goes well with fish”.
We have built a liturgy around ourselves that has robbed us of beauty: spontaneity, light-heartedness, the desire to open a bottle just because. Because it’s Thursday. Because there’s some delicious pasta with tomato sauce. Because we feel like it. Because we’re alive. And it’s okay to do so even without a Zalto Universal, an important anniversary, or the right occasion that never seems to come along. Meanwhile, the bottles age and gather dust. And so do we.
And then there is prejudice. The kind that ruins everything before you even pour it into your glass. That wine that “I already know what it’s like”, even if you’ve never tasted it. The one that doesn’t convince you because it reminds you of another. Or because you can’t stand the producer. But wines are not judgements, they are encounters. And like all encounters, they can sometimes surprise you, if you let them.
And great wines, the real ones, don’t need much introduction. They speak to you before they are explained, they impress without going through the glossary. If a wine is good, you can tell right away. Not in 2045, not after twelve hours of oxygenation, not on the third tasting with a playlist in the background. Right away. Then maybe it gets better, of course. But if it doesn’t say anything today, it’s unlikely to speak tomorrow.
So let’s start again with the immediate joy of well-made Vermentino. And the spontaneous smile of Diego Bosoni, who talks about wine without pretension, with sincere curiosity and a glass that arrives, convinces and leaves without fuss.
In the end, those who really have something to say do so between sips. And to that friend who writes to me, “Which wine should I get?”, the answer is increasingly simple: “Get whatever you like. At most, you’ll pay double and it’ll taste awful”.
A ballad
Diego Bosoni: “Fresh, drinkable and accessible, a popular wine that reflects our times”
by Raffaele Mosca
for Mr. Vermentino
When you say Vermentino, you think of summer. You find it there, at summer lunches based on fish and vegetables, in an ice bucket in a dimension of pure relaxation, with a refrain in your ears. Distinctive features? It has the good fortune to acclimatise very well near the sea and to convey the atmosphere of the Riviera with its aromas. And while in some cases its limitation is a certain lack of depth and originality, in the Colli di Luni, on the border between Liguria and Tuscany, you can find versions with great character. We had a chat with Diego Bosoni, the most important producer in the area. His true passion? Music.
What is behind the success of recent years?
Well, there is no question that quality is an important factor: first of all because it expresses something different depending on where it is planted (and works well in different regions, ed.). And then because its contemporary nature is its strong point: today’s wine lover is not looking for structure and power, but freshness and drinkability.
In short, has it established itself as the opposite of those heavy, oaky whites that were popular twenty years ago and have now become boring? Definitely. But here it’s not a fad: it’s an integral part of the history of Colli di Luni. There was also a period when people here were looking for woodiness and richness. But my father was never a fan of that style and immediately moved towards something that combined complexity with smoothness. Today, seeing all this attention to this approach makes us very happy.
So you’re not worried that the fact that Vermentino is growing everywhere could create inflation and damage the reputation of the variety?
This thought is there and we often talk about it with colleagues in the area. However, I believe that if we at Colli di Luni manage to maintain a certain level of quality, we will have no problems. Of course, there are fluctuations linked to market trends, and it is likely that, as with other fads, there will come a time when it will fade away. But if you really know how to value what you do, there is no risk. The closest example is music: genres go out of fashion, but if the artist maintains their inspiration and reputation, they do not run the risk of ending up badly!
The wine sector is going through a difficult period. As producers of a “trendy wine”, what do you think about this situation? It would be foolish to say that we are immune. But we consider ourselves lucky: probably because of our ability to build a solid reputation, we maintain a certain stability. But it must also be said that, unlike others, we have had very steady growth, without extreme peaks.
Most Italian companies have invested heavily in internationalisation. Instead, you sell 80% of your production in Italy. This is where we started: we began in the area around us and gradually expanded into neighbouring regions, primarily Tuscany and Liguria, then throughout Italy. We arrived abroad much later. What is the biggest advantage and the biggest disadvantage of working mainly in Italy?
The advantage is maintaining a chain of human relationships that is difficult to create outside Italy. The risk with exporting is becoming depersonalised and disconnected from the end consumer, not knowing where your wine actually ends up. The problem is extreme fragmentation: you sell small quantities to a huge number of customers. But we are used to this because our vineyard is the same: the more than 50 hectares we own –plus others from suppliers – are all broken up into small plots.
How does it feel to be the largest producer in a denomination – and in a region – of small winegrowers?
In reality, size has never been our concern: we work like all Ligurian winegrowers. Of course, we have to run a business that produces over 500,000 bottles a year. And we do it as farmers: we don’t have a business background. We are the largest in Liguria, but in other regions we would be considered medium-small. We try to be
leaders and create synergy, establishing a network that can elevate the territory, including through Ca’ Lunae, our facility dedicated to wine tourism with an adjoining restaurant.
In your opinion, is it more important to promote the Colli di Luni territory or the Vermentino grape?
We need to promote the place through the grape and the grape through the place. Of course, we are different from other areas suited to Vermentino, but we owe our success to the grape variety and depriving ourselves of its name – as they are doing in other areas – would be unthinkable. Not least because it is the best interpreter of this area between the sea and the mountains, between Tuscany and Liguria, which has a multitude of nuances within it.
Of all the Vermentino wines, is Colli di Luni perhaps the most northern in style?
In some ways, yes: this is definitely a coastal area,
it doesn’t have a mountain climate. But the Apuan Alps are nearby and the mountain breezes always descend to cool the vineyards: this is where the aromatic elegance and acidity that sometimes recalls more northern territories comes from.
What else is there in this area besides Vermentino?
A wealth of mostly indigenous grape varieties that we are working on: among the whites, Albarola. Among the reds, Vermentino Nero, Massaretta and Pollera. All these cultivars produce agile, contemporary wines. But even within the Vermentino plots, there is enormous biodiversity: first of all, because the vineyards are interspersed with woods and olive groves. And secondly, because they range from the area of ancient Lunae around the Roman amphitheatre, which is on the plain and outside the DOC, to the peaks of the hills, which reach 500 metres.
Here, the border - as well as between Tuscany
and Liguria and between the sea and the mountains - is also between the sandy coast and the rocky coast...
This is the absolute wonder: it is a world of influences. And the landscape, traditions, architecture and gastronomy reflect this mix. But the soul of the area remains strongly Ligurian, albeit with Tuscan-Emilian influences.
You have invested in the construction of an architecturally impressive winery. What is the real purpose?
We want to reaffirm our objectives in the vineyard through architecture and cultivate the future through aesthetics, building a building that not only houses wine but also provides a better experience for everyone, from the staff who work there to the customers who visit it. Beauty is an important value, there is nothing frivolous about it: it must be cultivated in every way, from the terraced vineyard overlooking the valley to the production areas. The beauty of our winery is minimalist, camouflaged in the landscape,
with an essential design, even if every element is highly symbolic.
Longevity of Vermentino: it tends to be drunk young, but tastings show that it evolves in a fascinating and unusual way.
It is a wine that does not necessarily need to be aged: it is enjoyable right from the start. However, it can be interpreted in two ways: drink it young and appreciate its fruitiness and acidity. As it evolves, if the grapes and areas are right, it sheds its more exuberant side and develops great complexity, while always maintaining its Mediterranean character intertwined with that hydrocarbon touch that enthusiasts love.
However, producing a version specifically designed for ageing was not easy.
Not at all: here, if you want, you sell everything immediately.
When I first tried to make a limited edition wine with a longer ageing period in 2008, released almost four years after the harvest, I called it Numero Chiuso because I thought it was a “one shot”: my father thought it didn’t make sense to wait so long. But then he changed his mind: he never told me directly, but, given the results, he allowed me to continue!
As a great white wine expert, what advice would you give to a colleague who wants to achieve success with a white wine?
Be introspective, don’t force yourself to try to align with a specific style, and don’t get carried away by dreams or beliefs that are at odds with where you are. And then a good mortgage for investments in the vineyard and winery...
And again, regardless of the type of wine, a little meditation to always keep calm!
Solo debut
PadreFiglio and L’Incantatrice: Diego Bosoni’s first two singles, marked by change
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
Diego Bosoni has a kind face and calm manner, inspiring trust even when you meet him for the first time. He has the serenity of someone who does not seek the limelight because he has found his place in the world. Between bottles of Lunae Bosoni –the winery founded by his father Paolo in 1966 in Castelnuovo Magra (pictured with his son) – he talks naturally about a parallel, personal project that does not appear on any official website. It bears his name, his trajectory. That of a son who walks alone,
evolving – and contrasting – with his father’s model. On the back label of the macerated white wine PadreFiglio, he writes: “We are all children of a memory and fathers of a vision... Two souls linked, but at the same time different. A relationship that lives in the encounter of differences and sensibilities in a shared time”. A dedication, but also a declaration of intent. “Inside is the generational clash that affects us all: the tension between roots and vision, tenderness and rough edges, continuity and
divergence,” he adds. Something had already been hinted at with Numero Chiuso, a Vermentino produced in 2,600 bottles from a single barrel, designed for ageing. At first, Paolo was not convinced. “It was supposed to be a one-off,” says Diego, “but then the feedback was positive and my father had to change his mind.”
With PadreFiglio, the step forward is even more decisive. A Vermentino from a single vineyard in Castelnuovo Magra, at the foot of the hills, rented because his father did not want to give him his own. Harvest 2022, not declared on the label. The aromatic profile is almost bold: apricot, ripe peach, thyme. Maceration on the skins for 15 days, only steel, then a year in amphorae and Tava ceramics. The palate is rich, full, textured, but without complacency. It has depth and momentum, with a finish reminiscent of almonds and sesame. Ample but dynamic on the palate. “An approach that combines contemporary technique and ancient gestures, we use steel as well as amphorae.”
Diego describes the second wine with a broader smile. “Less cerebral, more direct: more for drinking than for tasting. It is a wine that is born out of spontaneous feeling.” It is called L’Incantratrice and is a bottle-fermented wine made from Vermentino, Albarola and Malvasia grapes. It plays on the fragrant tones of bread crust and yeast, followed by candied citron and apple. The palate is more energetic than refined: dry, direct, rustic. With a bitter almond finish that cleanses and closes.
Two wines, two stories. One more intimate, the other more instinctive. Two different ways of coming out into the open. Like two tracks on a solo album. Meanwhile, the parent company is also undergoing a transformation. After the new winery and guest rooms, there is now a restaurant inspired by old Ligurian taverns: open only for lunch, from Tuesday to Saturday, with a set menu that changes every month. Simple dishes, designed to accompany its wines. Local ingredients, a convivial spirit: Ostaia Ca’ Lunae
Vermentino secondo Lunae
96
>Vermentino Colli di Luni
Etichetta Nera 2024 93
Cantine Lunae Luni (SP)
From vineyards in the hills, it has been aged only in steel and plays heavily on fermentation, with classic tones of white flowers, herbs, citrus peel and summer fruit. Lively, still very young and slightly vegetal, but well balanced between pulp and freshness. With a little bottle ageing, it will grow in thickness and depth.
92
>Vermentino Colli di Luni
Etichetta Nera 2020
Cantine Lunae
Luni (SP)
Radically different from the ‘24. Medlar, broom and a hint of tropical fruit intertwine with a hint of hydrocarbons and some sweet spices. It has the fullness and richness of fruit typical of coastal wines, combined with a citrusy kick and a long, lively finish with rich Mediterranean references.
>Vermentino Colli di Luni
Etichetta Nera 2018
Cantine Lunae
Luni (SP)
The cool vintage has carved out a profile with hints of grapefruit, flint and medicinal herbs, almost in the style of Sancerre. Very lively on the palate, sharp and citrusy, but also exquisitely Mediterranean thanks to a return of wild herbs: what freshness! It still has a very long life ahead of it: White Wine of the Year in the 2020 Guide.
>Vermentino Colli di Luni Cavagino 2023 92
Cantine Lunae Luni (SP)
A single vineyard surrounded by woods produces a wine of rare elegance, with aromas of plum, chamomile, wildflowers, resins and balsamic herbs. Fermentation in wood rounds out and plumps up the palate, but it also has a great acidic-savoury vigour that makes it a gastronomic passe-partout. Long finish with a mentholated breath.
88
>Vermentino Colli di Luni
Cavagino 2022
Cantine Lunae
Luni (SP)
Perhaps the least convincing wine, with an intriguing bouquet of hydrocarbons and spices, but with a honeyed and dried fruit undertone that indicates a somewhat premature evolution. It enters broadly, creamy, and then thins out. The finish is slightly bitter and a tad lacking in freshness, emphasising the hot vintage.
>Vermentino Colli di Luni
Numero Chiuso 2021 94
Cantine Lunae
Luni (SP)
Long ageing in large barrels and bottles sculpts a white wine that resembles Cavagino in its Mediterranean expression, but with an intense hint of iodine and flint that gives it more depth. Very fresh, with a salty note that makes it very drinkable, despite having the right concentration, depth and length for ageing.
>Vermentino Colli di Luni
Numero Chiuso 2018 92
Cantine Lunae Luni (SP)
Less expressive than the Etichetta Nera of the same vintage, with subtle hints of hydrocarbon, herbs and hay prevailing over fruit. Somewhat cryptic, almost austere, but with pressing acidity and accompanying salinity that suggest a slow evolution in the years to come. Right now, it doesn’t leave you speechless, but it could surpass its little brother in the long run.
95
>Vermentino Colli di Luni
Numero Chiuso 2010
Cantine Lunae
Luni (SP)
Almost fifteen years old, and the nose explodes in an ultra-coastal riot of bitter honey, freshly picked figs, orange blossom and capers in brine, with a hint of white chocolate in the background. Rich on the attack, then exceptionally fresh, almost vibrant. Long finish with hydrocarbons, iodine and honeyed notes. Mature, yes, but still far from the end of its journey!
Castello di Gabbiano The school (and beauty) of Chianti Classico
Chianti Classico is a designation that continues to set the standard. This is certainly due to its history, but also to its ability to reinvent itself while remaining true to its roots: while it is the guardian of tradition, it also continues to be fertile ground for investments aimed at improving the quality and recognition of its wines. This is the backdrop against which Castello di Gabbiano stands: we are in San Casciano in Val di Pesa, on a 12th-century estate that today looks to the future with the solidity of Treasury Wine Estates, an international group that has chosen to invest here to strengthen its presence in Italian wine.
The wine-growing tradition of this place dates back to ancient times. The first cellars were built in 1124, when the castle belonged to the Bardi family, Florentine bankers who enlarged it in the 13th century with crenellated walls in the Guelph style. In the 15th century, it passed to the Soderini family, who transformed the residence into a farm. After various events and a long period of neglect, the castle was given a new lease of life in the 17th century, with subsequent restorations and extensions that have managed to maintain the charm of a place that has always had wine as its driving force.
A 12th-century estate that now looks ahead with the solidity of Treasury Wine Estates and also offers charming hospitality
THE WINES
Today, the estate covers over 150 hectares of vineyards, the largest in the province of Florence for Chianti Classico, with altitudes ranging from 250 to 350 metres. Sangiovese is at the heart of production. Castello di Gabbiano’s Chianti Classico is direct, with notes of crisp fruit and an agile palate, while the Riserva raises the bar with greater density, chiselled tannins and a flavour profile that gives space to spices and undergrowth. Sangiovese reaches its peak with the two Gran Selezioni, Bellezza and Cerbaiola, the fruit of two single vineyards and therefore a true expression of the territory linked to the crus. All wines that move without stylistic constraints and show an increasingly clean technical hand compared to the past. Alongside these labels, the winery offers labels that include international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot: choices that are aimed primarily at a global audience, with convincing results in terms of balance and the ability to combine structure and drinkability. Great credit goes to oenologist Federico Cerelli, who joined the company in 2011 and led the recent modernisation project of the winery with the creation of an innovative mechanised and computerised fermentation system, the result of collaboration with an engineer specialising in watches.
However, the Castello di Gabbiano experience does not stop at wine. Today, the estate also offers charming hospitality, with rooms in the historic residence and a restaurant, Il Cavaliere, which offers local cuisine with a modern twist: fresh handmade pasta, grilled meats, vegetables from the garden and a selection of local cold cuts and cheeses. A proposal that combines Tuscan tradition and contemporary creativity, designed to complement the wines of the Castello. In summer, tables are set out on the terrace overlooking the hills, while the warm atmosphere of the historic residence dominates the interior rooms. The result is a journey that accompanies the visitor from the glass to the plate.
THE VERTICAL
Let’s go back almost thirty years to its first harvest, in 1997, when the wine was released on the market as IGT Toscana. Those were the years of Supertuscans, and this wine, the fruit of a vineyard planted in 1993, was one of them. In 2008, it became Chianti Classico, and in 2009, Vigna Bellezza appeared on the label. Then, in 2011, it became one of the first 26 labels with the Gran Selezione designation, the very year the Consortium established this new category. Only Sangiovese grapes and a single vineyard, as we said, covering 13 hectares, five of which were replanted in 2007 and are now used to produce the wine. The other eight hectares were replanted in 2023 and will bear their first useful fruit in a few years. Depending on the vintage, between 15,000 and 20,000 bottles are produced, mainly due to the rigorous selection of grapes carried out in the vineyard.
BELLEZZA 2000
96
Twenty-five years have passed, but the wine still has incredible vitality. The nose still offers hints of ripe fruit, followed by hints of undergrowth, bark and a touch of rust. The palate is still fresh with acidity, the tannins are well integrated and the savoury notes push the wine towards a beautiful finish.
BELLEZZA 2005
92
Warm, balsamic and mentholated notes prevail on the nose, with a hint of wood that is now well integrated but still clearly discernible. On the palate, however, it shows considerable character, with lively, imposing tannins and notes of ripe black fruit that emerge gradually. Here too, there is no lack of savouriness, which enhances the beautiful acidity.
CHIANTI CLASSICO BELLEZZA RIS. 2009
902008 was the first vintage to bear the Chianti Classico DOC designation, while from 2009 onwards it began to be released as a Riserva. The wine is complex on the nose, with notes of cinchona and black fruits prevailing. The palate is structured, with significant extraction marked by severe tannins and a hint of astringency. However, it has a beautiful sapidity and a particularly fleshy, sanguine, haematic finish.
CHIANTI CLASSICO BELLEZZA RIS. 2010
96A true thoroughbred, also the product of a splendid, fresh and balanced vintage. The nose still offers primary sensations and the aromas range from small red fruits to herbaceous notes, from hints of undergrowth to touches of noble resins. The palate
is energetic and lively, with sharp but precise tannins and a long, flavourful finish.
CHIANTI CLASSICO
GRAN SELEZIONE BELLEZZA 2011
91
Since the Gran Selezione designation came into force, the wine has immediately benefited from this designation, thanks to being 100% Sangiovese and, in this case, the product of a single vineyard. The vintage was very hot, which is reflected in the high alcohol content. The wine is dense, with warm notes on the nose, but the fruit is never overripe. On the palate, the tannins are sharp but creamy, and the finish is fresh, mentholated and savoury.
CHIANTI CLASSICO
GRAN SELEZIONE BELLEZZA 2013
93
Until the 2013 vintage, barriques were mainly used, with a large proportion of new barrels. At first, there is a hint of excess alcohol, then the nose reveals notes of Alchermes liqueur, a touch of truffle and a distinct sensation of cherry. Despite what the nose might suggest, the palate is fresh, crisp and savoury, underpinned by lively but never astringent tannins.
CHIANTI CLASSICO
GRAN SELEZIONE BELLEZZA 2017
94
A vintage that clearly shows a marked change in style. Larger wood barrels are used, with less extraction, resulting in brighter, more graceful wines. Despite the hot 2017 vintage, the wine offers a beautiful bloody nose, with hints of small fruit, light spices and orange peel. The palate is pulpy, the tannins caressing, the sip fresh, graceful and deep thanks to its exemplary sapidity.
CHIANTI CLASSICO
GRAN SELEZIONE BELLEZZA 2018
95A fresh vintage and a well-defined style, now the current one, give us a truly good wine, which we could define as a purebred Sangiovese. The nose is complex and multifaceted, with notes of red fruit, pepper and blood orange. The palate is subtle, juicy and extremely elegant, and thanks to its sapidity, it has a very long and clean finish.
CHIANTI CLASSICO
GRAN SELEZIONE BELLEZZA 2019
97
A wonderful vintage and equally wonderful wines. The Gran Selezione 2019 is undoubtedly the one that surprised us the most, thanks to a truly
incredible nose in terms of finesse (the notes range from wild berries to hints of rose, passing through sensations of cherry) and a graceful, elegant palate, where everything is in its place, from the tannins to the acidic freshness.
CHIANTI CLASSICO
GRAN SELEZIONE BELLEZZA 2020
A great wine despite its youth, it is denser and more compact than the previous vintage (partly due to a warmer summer). The fruit is ripe and lively, with a spicy component that anticipates an austere palate, with pronounced but never intrusive tannins. The rest is done by the substance, well balanced by the acidity and savouriness that can be detected especially in the finish. This wine is currently on the market and is reviewed in the Vini d’Italia guide, which will be released on 12 October. For this reason, we are not giving a score out of 100 here, but we can reveal that it is an exemplary version that will give much satisfaction in the future.
Castello di Gabbiano
San Casciano in Val di Pesa (FI) fraz. Mercatale Val di Pesa via Gabbiano, 22 +39 055 821 053 castellogabbiano.it fcastellogabbiano
$castellodigabbiano castellogabbiano
Mediterranean epicentre
Sardinia, Liguria, Tuscany and beyond
A journey to the origins of Vermentino
by William Pregentelli
There are some grape varieties that have travelled further than others through space and time. Among the vineyards that caress the Tyrrhenian coast and climb the sunny hills of Sardinia, Vermentino stands out as one of the most emblematic grapes of Italian winemaking. Behind its aromatic profile and salty freshness that captivate the nose and palate lies a complex history, intertwined with ancient trade routes, genetic migrations and ampelographic controversies that still stimulate the interest of the scientific community today. The history of these grapes is shrouded in mystery, reflecting the restlessness of the vines and peoples of the Mediterranean. Vermentino belongs to a genetic group similar to western Mediterranean vines, but its precise origins remain controversial. One of the most credible hypotheses places it in the Ligurian-Provençal basin, probably in Corsica or on the Ligurian coast, from where it then spread to Sardinia, Tuscany and finally to the south of France, where it takes the name Rolle. Today, Vermentino’s adopted homeland is Sardinia, where it has found ideal soil and climate conditions and has achieved the status of Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) with Vermentino di Gallura. Here, among the gran-
ite soils and constant mistral winds – with many differences between the coast and the inland areas, which rise to an altitude of up to 600 metres – the grape variety expresses its minerality to the full, often accompanied by notes of Mediterranean scrub, peach and white flowers. However, this grape is widespread throughout the island and acts as a sort of litmus test for the various territories in which it grows. In Liguria, Vermentino is mainly grown in the Colli di Luni hills, on the border with Tuscany, where the resulting wine takes on a citrusy and savoury profile thanks to the poor soils and the influence of the sea; but there are also interesting labels from the Riviera di Ponente. Tuscany is another important production area, especially with the Maremma and Bolgheri areas: the results range from fresh and immediate versions to more complex interpretations, aged in wood. The success of Vermentino is not limited to Italy: in recent years, it has also been the subject of interest in countries such as California and Australia ( as Raffaele Mosca tells you in the following pages). So much so that for the past four editions, a national wine competition (concorsovermentino.com) has been held, in which labels from other parts of the world also participate.
Vermentino not to be missed
93
>Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Sienda '24
Mura
Loiri Porto S. Paolo (SS)
The company’s production focus is undoubtedly on Vermentino. The granite, sandy and clayey soils in which the vines are rooted give the wines character, minerality and typicality. As with Sienda ‘24: peach, lemon leaf and hints of iodine characterise the bouquet, anticipating an elegant, fresh, pleasant and very long finish 22,70
>Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Sciala '24 92
>Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Kramori '23 94
Saraja Telti (SS)
Among the various areas in which it operates, Saraja attaches great importance to Gallura. One of the most interesting Vermentino wines tasted this summer comes from here.
Kramori has an aromatic profile reminiscent of citrus fruits, peaches and a salty breeze. The palate is cohesive and intact, savoury, dense in flavour but capable of moving with agility. 15,90
>Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Pitraia '22 93
Tenute Gregu
Olbia (SS)
For about twenty years, the Gregu family has invested in one of the most beautiful estates in the Gallura region. Vermentino finds one of its natural habitats here. Pitraia ‘22 reveals itself to be elegantly balsamic, then shows off its aromatic herbs. The palate is a play between a lashing acidity and juicy salinity. 96
92
>Bolgheri Bianco Scenario '23
Tenuta Argentiera Donoratico (LI)
Pure Vermentino, fermented and aged partly in clayver and partly in barrels. The result is a wine that is all about aromatic herbs, then a hint of aniseed and a slight hint of iodine. The palate is enveloping and gritty, the warmth is perfectly managed, there is no lack of flavour and the finish is fresh, elegant and deep. 56
92
>Unnè Vermentino '21
Poggio Levante Cinigiano (GR)
Vines at over 400 metres above sea level, four years of ageing. Hints of hydrocarbons and flint mingle with broom, thyme and a touch of honey. Still very young, but with above-average complexity and structure, with a salty and smoky finish. A vertical tasting up to 2018 shows that it will remain at this level for at least another 3-4 years. 22
Surrau Arzachena (SS)
The vineyards are cultivated between 50 and 150 metres above sea level, on sandy and granitic soils that give the wines their distinctive characteristics. Especially Vermentino. Sciala is one of the most important labels for Vermentino di Gallura: the 2024 vintage has aromas of candied almonds, lemon pulp and yellow flowers. The palate is sweet with fruit but remains harmonious thanks to its high acidity. 21,50
>Vermentino di Sardegna Tuvaoes '23 92
Cherchi Usini (SS)
When Giovanni Maria Cherchi founded his company in the 1970s, he set himself the goal of showcasing the Usini area, with its calcareous-clayey soils. This includes through Tuvaoes, a Vermentino which, in the 2023 vintage, has aromas of sage, citrus zest and white peach, with an elegant and well-balanced profile that is fresh and full of flavour. 16
>Vermentino di Sardegna Su'Imari '24 92
Su'Entu
Sanluri (SU)
In Marmilla, the roots of the vines sink deep into poor soil, but the grapes manage to ripen beautifully in this stunning area where the rows of Su’Entu winery are located. This is where Su’Imari ‘24 is born: citrus fruits, salty sea breezes, yellow and white flowers frame a relaxed and fresh sip, with fruity pulp and a long, marine finish. 11,50
91
>Colli di Luni Vermentino Boboli '24
Giacomelli
Castelnuovo Magra (SP)
The winery was founded in Castelnuovo Magra in the early 1990s. At the helm is Roberto Petacchi, who over the years has transformed the family farm into a winery dedicated primarily to the production of Vermentino. One of its flagship labels is Boboli: floral and white peach on the nose, subtle and elegant, fresh, with pleasantly herbaceous notes. 20,50
91
>Colli di Luni Vermentino Vigne Basse '24
Terenzuola
Fosdinovo (MS)
The vineyards cultivated by Ivan Giuliani are spread across several areas: some are in the Cinque Terre, others in the Colli di Luni DOC, an appellation on the border between two regions, Liguria and Tuscany. This is where Vigne Basse ‘24 comes from: lively on the nose, with hints of citrus fruits and aromatic herbs, it is flavourful, lively and tasty on the palate. 15
91
>Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Thilibas '24
Cantina Pedres Olbia (SS)
The estate’s 80 hectares are located in Gallura, 300 metres above sea level. The emblem of the wide and varied range is Vermentino, the leading grape variety in the area. And of this label: Thilibas ‘24 has aromas of lemon peel and mint, a lovely iodine flavour and a pulpy fruitiness reminiscent of peach and melon. Quite delicious. 18,50
90
>Bolgheri Vermentino Zizzolo '24
Fornacelle
Castagneto Carducci (LI)
This Vermentino di Bolgheri is immediately appealing to the nose, with its delicacy and subtle but distinct aromas of summer fruit, wild herbs, flint and a hint of hazelnut. On the palate, it is agile, lively and salty, but not lacking in substance, with a linear finish, balanced between yellow fruit and iodine notes. 13
89
90
>Perlaia Vermentino '24
Bruni Orbetello (GR)
The Bruni family winery has become one of the most interesting producers in the Maremma wine scene, thanks in part to labels such as Perlaia, a Vermentino that, in its 2024 version, smells of lime blossom, citrus fruits and hints of exotic fruit. The palate is juicy and well balanced. It also ages well. 17,80
90
>Riviera Ligure di Ponente Vermentino '24
Laura Aschero Pontedassio (IM)
The Laura Aschero winery is now run by her granddaughter Bianca Rizzo, with support from her father Marco in the vineyard and her mother Carla in the cellar. Vermentino ‘24 is presented in a glass that smells of the sea with iodine and salty sensations, followed by aromatic herbs and hay. It is very fine, citrusy and pleasant. 21,80
>Kalendamaia Vermentino '24
Sant'Agnese Piombino (LI)
Located on the Piombino promontory, the winery focuses strongly on Vermentino. Kalendamaia is produced with different Tuscan and Corsican clones: the result is a white wine with aromas of juniper, grapefruit, white-fleshed fruits and lavender. On the palate, it is savoury, well-balanced, with a rich texture and a slightly almondy finish. 15
>Maremma Vermentino Il Marmato '24 88
Terre dell'Etruria
Magliano (GR)
The Terre dell’Etruria cooperative winery operates with a well-conceived approach, almost as if it were a private winery. It only produces wines from selected members who best interpret local varieties, including Vermentino. Marmato ‘24 has a fine, floral profile with hints of aromatic herbs. The palate is incisive and pleasantly lively. 14,50
88
>Nethun Vermentino '24
Muscari Tomajoli Tarquinia (VT)
Simple notes of herbs, citrus zest and slightly unripe summer fruit, followed by a hint of smokiness that adds depth. It is essential, carefree, balanced between pulp and freshness, with a finish that is impeccable in its simplicity. Versatile and perfect as an aperitif, but with a year or two in the bottle it could hold some surprises. 25,60
Castello di Querceto, over a century of Sangiovese amid vision and tradition
To understand the history and importance of the Castello di Querceto winery, a few dates suffice. 1911, for example: the company won its first wine award. The Tre Bicchieri award and Wine Spectator rankings were not even in the founders’ dreams, yet the goal of excellence was in their hearts. Another date is 1924: the first Italian consortium, that of Chianti Classico, was founded, and Castello di Querceto was among the 33 founding companies. From there came success, prestige, the conquest of international markets, and awards, all while staying true to tradition, native vines, and the promotion of Sangiovese. So much so that in 1897, when the estate was acquired by the François family, the then head of the family, Carlo François, planted the first Sangiovese vines in a very specific place, which we now call Cru. That Cru still exists today. It is called La Corte and produces a pure Sangiovese that has become a Gran Selezione with the additional geographical indication “Greve”. But among Castello di Querceto’s labels there is another Gran Selezione: Chianti Classico Il Picchio, the star of our tasting. The first vintage was 1988 and it was released as a Riserva (a wine that is still intact and vibrant, demonstrating the ageing potential of these wines) and made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes with a small touch (5%) of Colorino, which has always been present in the vineyard.
This commitment by the Tuscan winery has been vigorously pursued by the third generation of the François family, with Simone and Lia (children
The two Crus of Castello di Querceto, Il Picchio and La Corte, tell the story of a winery with ancient origins that the François family has made into one of the most prestigious in the Chianti Classico region
of Alessandro and Antonietta, who led a major restructuring of the estate in the 1970s) at the helm. The estate now has around 60 hectares of vineyards on a total area of 190 hectares. The castle is the family residence and, today as in the past, the grapes are vinified here and the wines are produced and aged in the cellars beneath the residence. The historic cellar still contains a few bottles from the early 20th century. The castle also offers hospitality with a few rooms available for a few days of relaxation surrounded by vineyards and woods, a stone’s throw from Greve in Chianti, one of the historic villages in the area. The estate also produces in the name of sustainability and practises sustainable agriculture, i.e. respectful of the health of the environment.
THE VERTICAL
Vertical tasting of 10 vintages of the great red Il Picchio, a historic Sangiovese cru created in 1988 as a Riserva, which later became a Gran Selezione and now bears the geographical designation Greve on its label.
CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE
UGA GREVE IL PICCHIO 2022
We tasted it in preview and the evaluation is still being processed by the board of Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia 2026, due out in October. It is a beautiful version, still in its youth, offering aromas of red fruit and spices and a slender palate with just the right amount of tannins. Nice clean and dry finish.
CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE
UGA GREVE IL PICCHIO 2021
94
A beautiful version that, four years after harvest, manages to express a very complex, rich and multifaceted nose, while the palate is harmonious and balanced. Aromas of plum and blueberry, with a touch of pepper that anticipates a fresh, long and savoury sip, where the acidity is masterful, while the tannins are soft and mature.
CHIANTI CLASSICO
GRAN SELEZIONE 2020
90The warm vintage, as is right and proper for authentic and sincere wines, is evident, and it is no coincidence that the nose offers notes of very ripe fruit, ranging from cherry to strawberry. The palate is nevertheless slender, enveloping the mouth, with no excessive sensation of alcohol, but only more pronounced and present tannins, which are nevertheless well balanced with acidity and sapidity.
CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 2015
91
Le t’ s go back 10 years and find a wine that is still intact, lively, fresh and agile, despite the fact that 2015 was also a hot vintage. The fruit is ripe, but there are no signs of over-ripeness or further evolution. The notes of currants are complemented by hints of dry leaves, resin and wet earth. The palate is fresh, the acidity is well balanced and the finish is characterised by savouriness.
CHIANTI CLASSICO RIS. 2010
94 In 2010, the wine was still a Riserva, and we will long remember that year as one of the freshest and most energetic vintages of recent decades. Although much time has passed since the harvest, the wine still offers many primary aromas, with red fruit and blood orange in evidence. The palate is slender, agile, very fresh and of rare elegance.
CHIANTI CLASSICO RIS. 2005
92
Le t’s go back twenty years to 2005, which gives us a dense, full-bodied wine with a very intense texture. Let’s start with the nose. Unlike other vintages, the fruit is more black than red, as evidenced by the ripe blackberry. There is also a touch of black pepper that anticipates a creamy, enveloping sip, where the tannins are sharp and give rhythm, but freshness and savouriness are not lacking here either.
CHIANTI CLASSICO RIS. 2000
95
It is undoubtedly one of the great surprises of the tasting. First of all, because the vintage was hot, but here the
true essence of the terroir and the vineyard in particular comes to the fore. Its richness and maturity are perfectly balanced by a disarming freshness, a flavour that makes it deep on the palate and soft, silky tannins. All this is accompanied by notes of incense and hints of menthol.
CHIANTI CLASSICO RIS. 1995
94
Le t’s go back thirty years to taste a beautiful wine, all about freshness, finesse, gracefulness and depth. You can still taste hints of small red fruits and sweet spices, complemented by notes of porcini mushrooms and noble resins. The palate is a great example of elegance.
CHIANTI CLASSICO RIS. 1990
95
Al essandro François, father of Simone and Lia, who was present at the tasting, describes the Riserva ‘90 as a wine of immense brightness. We agree, given its elegance. The primary, fruity and still present notes are accompanied by a floral touch, while the palate is graceful, intact, very fresh with perfectly balanced acidity and a flavourful and very clean finish.
CHIANTI CLASSICO RIS. 1988
97
Th ere is no doubt that tasting the first vintage produced and returning to the flavours of the late 1980s can be evocative, but here we are truly faced with one of the greatest wines tasted in these parts. The palate shows textbook verticality, the acidity is still lively and the tannins are also lively, offering a beautiful progression. Then there is the nose: no sign of excessive evolution, but only great co mplexity b etween mountain herbs, incense and undergrowth.
Castello di Querceto
Greve in Chianti (FI) via A. François, 2 +39 055 85921 − castellodiquerceto.it fcastello.di.querceto.greve $castellodiquerceto
The grape that senses the sea
Vermentino: a coastal grape variety with many expressions
It thrives on sandy soil and is resistant to heat and drought
by Raffaele Mosca -photos by Tablas Creek winery
Everyone claims it as their own, but its fortune lies in being essentially stateless and able to acclimatise well in any sunny area. It has an almost unrivalled ability to withstand salt, drought and heat, which is why it is traditionally linked to regions where the sea is a constant presence: for example, Liguria, where Pigato is also its relative, Gallura and Romangia in Sardinia, where some of the oldest plants are found. From time to time, it can also be found inland: in Piedmont, for example, it is known as Favorita.
The profile varies radically from area to area: it ranges from floral to exotic, from herbaceous to peppery, from “simple & uncomplicated” to significant concentrations that allow some versions – especially Sardinian ones – to stand up to even the most challenging dishes. Yet it always maintains a salty rather than acidic freshness: this, combined with generous fruit, makes the wine delicious, easy to drink and perfect for the summer. Provided, however, that it is worked well: its semi-aromatic nature and its presence in hot areas mean that poor harvesting or the use of the wrong yeasts will result in wines that are weak, unbalanced or simply banal.
In short, Vermentino is gaining ground in many
parts of Italy: in Tuscany, it has begun to erode the dominance of red grapes in the plots closest to the coast, where the presence of clay is modest and the sand makes tannin ripening more complicated, especially in years when rainfall is scarce. And if until a few harvests ago it was more or less impossible to find a “Tuscan style”, today there’s an increase in greater uniformity, especially among the simpler wines, which combine a Mediterranean character with fruit that is riper than in Liguria, but without the residual sugar of some Sardinian versions. «It’s all about finding a balance between the Corsican clones, which have taken root very well here and give more aroma, and the Italian ones, which give more freshness,» explains Stefano Billi, owner of Fornacelle in Bolgheri. His is one of the most solid products in the affordable wine range, but there are also those who go further. From Belguardo di Mazzei to Cobalto di Val delle Rose, premium versions from iconic producers in the region – particularly in Maremma, where it seems to have found a home – are on the rise. There are also outsiders doing great things: a prime example is Unnè di Poggio Levante, the result of a project focused on vineyards 400 metres above sea level in the Montecucco area, closer to Montalcino
than to the coast. A few bottles from the Rhine with screw caps which, after a few years of rest, explode in a balsamic and hydrocarbon riot, evoking the intertwining of the Libeccio wind and the mountain currents of Amiata.
But Vermentino’s popularity extends beyond Tuscany: in Tarquinia, on the northern coast of Lazio, Marco Muscari Tomajoli produces a very focused version that sells out within a few months of going on sale. Not far from the beaches of Fregene, the sandy loam soils around the Castello di Torre in Pietra give rise to Arenaro, another expression that impressed us in the tastings for Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia 2026 guide. Much further south, in Sicily, there are those who have planted several hectares: it is already present in the Settesoli line, the largest cooperative in the region, and in that of Valle dell’Acate, a historic company in the Ragusa area. «I started planting it when I uprooted the Chardonnay: it produces contemporary wines that express the Mediterranean territory well», explains owner Gaetana Jacono.
And outside Italy? Well, Corsica stands out with its Vermentinu, genetically slightly different from both the Sardinian variety and the peninsular clones. On the French Mediterranean coast, on
the other hand, its presence under the name Rolle – the Italian name is prohibited by European legislation – is significant, but most of the time it ends up being blended with other varieties. Then there are those New World wine-growing areas that have some climatic similarities with the Italian coast: for example, the well-ventilated areas of Australia, where there are traces of it. The area covered does not exceed 125 hectares in the whole country, according to the few sources available, but the local press associates its success in certain niches with “mojito and margarita vibes”, as if to suggest a mentholated and botanical aromatic profile that appeals to younger drinkers with its references to the flavours of mixology. Vermentino also covers approximately 100 hectares in California. Among the first wineries to plant it was Tablas Creek, a benchmark in Paso Robles, on the central coast, for everything that is not Cabernet, Chardonnay or Zinfandel, starting with Mediterranean grape varieties such as Syrah and Grenache, which, before the launch of the flagship red Esprit de Tablas (originally Esprit de Beaucastel), were not widely known in the United States. Chardonnay or Zinfandel, starting with Mediterranean grape varieties such as Syrah
Miglior Cantina Bio emergente 2024
Eleonora Bianchi
Corsica, la “variante” di un vitigno mediterraneo
Corsica boasts around 5,700 hectares of vineyards, mainly located in coastal areas, but also inland, where vines are grown at altitudes of over 600 metres.
Vermentino certainly occupies a prominent place in production, thanks to a vineyard area of 1,400 hectares. This important white grape variety, found throughout the Mediterranean, is often called Malvoisie de Corse here, but it has nothing to do with our Malvasia varieties. Furthermore, thanks to a system of appellations derived from French policy, the variety is often not indicated in the name of the wine, which instead emphasises the different Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée. The main one is the Patrimonio appellation, where Vermentino is the only white grape variety and can be considered the most prestigious area for the variety, characterised by clay-limestone soils. This is followed by the AOC Calvi in the north-west, characterised by granite soils, and Sartène in the south-west, known for its granite and sandy soils. However, Vermentino is also grown in the AOC Figari, Porto Vecchio and Cap Corse, testifying to the widespread distribution of this “maritime” grape variety.
and Grenache, which, before the launch of the flagship red Esprit de Tablas (originally Esprit de Beaucastel, to reflect the partnership with the Rhône winery of the same name), were in their infancy in the United States.
«It is the easiest grape variety to grow and one of the easiest to vinify. Its vigour and productivity are remarkable, as is its ability to resist viruses endemic to our vineyards», explains owner Jason Haas (pictured above). For now, there are about 12,000 bottles, sold directly at the winery or to wine club members and sealed with screw caps to enhance freshness and varietal aromas. But he sees much greater potential: «I recently told some colleagues that three-quarters of the Sauvignon Blanc in California should be replaced with Vermentino because you don’t have to protect it from the heat in this region. You can simply plant it on a sunny slope and let it take its course».
In short, Vermentino is the grape variety most capable of speaking the Esperanto of viticulture by the sea and under the sun. «I believe it has a bright future», Haas concludes. And brightness is the right word to sum up the wines we will be telling you about in the following pages!
>Patrimonio Grande Expression Blanc 2022 94
Corsica, the “variant” of a Mediterranean grape variety
Domaine Gentile Saint-Florent
This is the domaine’s most representative white wine, grown at an altitude of over 500 metres. Two years after harvest, it shows no signs of decline; it is intact and lively on the nose, with notes of yellow fruit, wild herbs, sweet spices and candied lemon. The palate is thick and enveloping, never soft or flat: acidity and sapidity drive the sip towards a very flavourful finish.
>Corse Sartène Blanc 2023 92
Castellu di Baricci
Sartene
The Vermentino from this small artisan winery offers textbook complexity: a multifaceted nose of spices and wild herbs, fruit (medlar stands out) and a beautiful hint of helichrysum. The palate is solid, with savouriness defining the sip, accompanied by an enveloping sensation given by perfectly integrated alcohol. The finish is fresh and very clean.
>Corse Calvi Blanc 2024 95
Clos Culombu
Lumio
This is a wine with a strong territorial imprint. The nose is varietal and showcases the main characteristics of the grape variety, starting with a touch of exotic fruit, accompanied by slightly tart but charming hints of daisy and chamomile flowers. The palate is fresh and very drinkable, with smoothness guaranteed by the acidity, while the finish is all about savouriness.
>Patrimonio Cru des Agriate Blanc 2024 94
Domaine Giacometti
Santo Pietro di Tenda
This Cru, a wine of great flavour and depth, comes from 5 hectares in the Patrimonio appellation. Despite its young age, it offers complex aromas of white flowers, lemon leaf and a slight hint of spice. The palate is smooth and flavourful, so much so that it seems tannic. Then there is the freshness: masterful acidity that comes from the calcareous soils of the area.
>Bonifacio Blanc Tarra di Sognu 2024 93
Clos Canarelli
Figari
This is one of the most impressive wineries in the south of the island. The wine shows great ageing potential, but is also immediately enjoyable. The aromas range from white fruit to hints of citrus and aromatic herbs. It is savoury on the palate, with a hint of fruit sweetness, but the taste is guaranteed to offer a beautiful mix of acidity and savouriness.
>Patrimonio Menhir Blanc 2022 92
Domaine Montemagni Patrimonio
Patrimonio is one of the most important appellations for Vermentino. Three years after harvest, this great wine still offers primary notes and incredible youthfulness: it has great substance, supported by a beautiful, well-integrated acidity. There is no lack of flavour, especially in the finish, where the aromas return, starting with lemon zest.
>Sartène Cuvée Saparale Blanc 2024 90
Domaine Saparale
Sartène
This Vermentino is fresh and fragrant, characterised by notes of white flowers, as well as hints of peach, pear and exotic fruit. It is certainly pleasant on the palate, enveloping it, with the alcohol providing warmth but well integrated and harmonised by a beautiful savouriness that comes through especially in the finish.
>Ajaccio Blanc Tradition 2023 89
Clos Capitoro Cauro
Blanc Tradition is made exclusively from Vermentino grapes grown within the Ajaccio AOC, on granite soils that give the wine its distinctive character. A beautiful sensation of candied lemon and aromatic herbs marks the nose, anticipating a subtle, graceful and persistent palate. The acidity gives freshness and the sip goes deep.
Biodiversity, virtuous practices and experimental projects: Librandi, guardians of the territory
Not just a label, but substance, method and daily choice. This is how sustainability is expressed at the Librandi winery, a historic Calabrian company which, with the publication of its 2024–2025 Sustainability Report, renews its vocation to be not only a producer of fine wine, but also the guardian of a complex and living ecosystem. ‘Our goal is to look to the future through tangible data, concrete actions and the depth of an agricultural vision that starts from the land and can only look to the world,’ emphasise the Librandis.
The new report, drawn up in accordance with the latest ESG parameters, testifies to an ever-deepening commitment to environmental protection, the enhancement of people and dialogue with the local area. A transparent narrative, based on clear objectives, measurable results and a well-defined direction. This virtuous path has also been recognised by the renewal of the Equalitas certifica-
tion, one of the most rigorous certifications in the field of wine sustainability. Added to this is systematic work on calculating the carbon footprint and water footprint, indispensable tools for embarking on a genuine path of emissions compensation. But Librandi’s sustainability is a matter that literally starts from the roots. It is in the vineyards that the company’s identity finds its most authentic expression. Here, for some years now, the Biopass project has been underway, developed with Sata studio agronomico, with the aim of measuring, safeguarding and increasing biodiversity in viticulture. This ambitious and scientifically advanced project involves in-depth analysis of the soil structure, its chemical and physical composition, and above all the microfauna that inhabits it: the greater the presence of fragile microorganisms in the soil, the healthier the soil itself will be. The results speak for themselves: the wine-growing environment
managed by Librandi has excellent biodiversity and balance indices, confirming the natural vocation of the territory and the effectiveness of the practices adopted.
Librandi has long made biodiversity conservation one of its priorities. Back in the 1990s, the company undertook pioneering work to recover native Calabrian grape varieties, starting with Gaglioppo, thanks to scientific collaborations with national research institutions. This commitment gave rise to the Giardino Varietale (Varietal Garden), which today preserves over two hundred native varieties from the region: a precious genetic heritage, at the centre of agronomic studies and specialised publications, but also a concrete gesture of protection of Calabrian agricultural heritage. This project has given rise to experimental vineyards, each with a specific scientific objective, and eight different academic publications have been produced.
The philosophy behind this activity is also reflected in the agronomic management of the vineyards, all of which are run according to the principles of integrated pest management and regenerative viticulture, with practices such as the systematic use of green manure and minimal tillage to protect the soil structure. This approach also includes a virtuous collaboration with the F.lli Caffo Distillery and the Fattoria della Piana farm. The pomace obtained
from winemaking is sent to the distillery, which transforms it into a high-quality grappa linked to the territory. The distillation residues are then used in the Fattoria della Piana biogas plant to produce electricity. The resulting digestate, rich in organic matter, is finally returned to the Librandi vineyards as a natural fertiliser, thus closing a completely sustainable cycle.
Librandi’s commitment also has a strong cultural and social value. With the “Scuole in Vigna” (Schools in the Vineyard) project, the company opens its doors to young people to convey the values of sustainable agriculture. Cycle paths and footpaths guide guests through the Viale della Biodiversità (Biodiversity Avenue), where they can observe the main plant species of Calabria, contributing to an immersive, educational and awareness-raising experience.
Librandi demonstrates that sustainability is not a goal to be achieved, but a continuous journey of listening, innovation and awareness. It is a company that is not afraid to make difficult choices, because it knows that every action taken today will have an impact on tomorrow. In a world seeking new agricultural models, Librandi is a solid example of how wine can be a means for territorial regeneration, a bridge between tradition and the future.
the development of a neglected area that has become a global model
by Vittorio Ferla
Salvo Foti was born in Catania in 1962. Deeply rooted in the culture of Mount Etna, he has worked in vineyards and palmentos since he was a child. In 1981, he began his career as oenologist in the wine industry. A passionate scholar, he is also the author of several books on wine. A collaborator with well-known Sicilian companies in the Ragusa and Trapani areas, he has invested heavily in Etna viticulture, participating in the creation of wineries that are now leaders in this unique territory. A winemaker and an intellectual, he is an active guardian of the local wine culture. But some argue, with good reason, that he was the first to “invent” Etna wine as we know it today. You were a pioneer of Etna wine.
Andrea, Salvo and Simone Foti. Today, the new generations are at the helm of I Vigneri
You could say you “invented” it. How did it all begin?
Between the late 1980s and early 1990s, there was little interest in Sicily in native grape varieties and traditional viticulture in general. The few Sicilian wines that were bottled and considered more highly had the suffix “Chardonnay of...”, “Cabernet Sauvignon of...”.
And what about Etna wines?
Few of us believed in them. Etna viticulture was considered of little interest and marginal. Even those who worked in it, like me, were held in low esteem. Etna wines were snubbed also because the tastes of the time were very different from the characteristics of the wines produced on the volcano today. The Sicilian oenology that mattered was different and on the opposite side of the island, and everyone agreed on this at the time: oenologists, producers,
>Humanity
“Wines are not natural, they are human. I want to seek out the humanity behind a wine, the grape varieties and the people who produce it.”
journalists, critics, guides and many consumers. No important producer or renowned oenologist at the time would have dreamed of planting vineyards and making wines on an active volcano!
In short, at the beginning, Etna was not even perceived as a wine-producing area. Its wines did not leave the restricted area of local consumption.
Etna wine in those years was sold in bulk, locally, almost exclusively to local consumers. Many winegrowers sold their grapes. Very few companies with vineyards and cellars on the volcano bottled wine on a regular basis, among them the Villagrande and Murgo wineries.
Many believe that the “renaissance” of Etna wines began in the early 2000s...
In truth, the renaissance of Etna wines began
in the early 1990s thanks to my work and that of Giuseppe Benanti, followed by other Etna producers: therefore, until 2000, there were no “outsiders” on Etna. It all started with Giuseppe Benanti’s desire to become a producer in 1988 and my research, first historical and then technical-scientific, in collaboration with Professor Rocco Di Stefano, Director of the Experimental Institute of Oenology in Asti, a great scientist and luminary in the field of oenological chemistry.
A fundamental contribution to the birth of the Etna phenomenon...
The scientific research carried out at that time can be considered unprecedented in terms of knowledge of viticulture on the volcano and the study of native Etna grape varieties: Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Carricante, Grenache-Alicante, Minnella Bianca and Vesparola. The study provided the fundamental knowledge and innovation for the new Etna wine production carried out by me for the Benanti winery (then called Tenuta di Castiglione). Before this research, there was almost nothing known about the polyphenolic and aromatic components of the native Etna grape varieties.
Besides Benanti, who else took their first steps on Etna?
The first Etna DOC wines (Pietramarina and Rovittello) produced and marketed by Benanti date back to the 1991 harvest. A few years later came the wines of Alice Bonaccorsi, Valcerasa (1996), followed shortly afterwards by Ciro Biondi (1998), I Vigneri and Il Cantante by Mick Hucknall, leader of Simply Red, the British band that emerged in the first half of the 1980s.
Today’s producers owe them a lot... Benanti and I, in addition to the production aspect, have been promoters of important communication and dissemination of Etna viticulture since the early 1990s, which stimulated the curiosity and interest of technicians, journalists and salespeople. All the
producers, technicians and professionals in various fields who arrived later found a reference point in the Benanti winery and its wines. Many expressed great curiosity about the wines of Europe’s highest volcano.
Another turning point came when Etna was rediscovered by a group of “foreigners”...
Just ten years after the beginning of the “Etna wine renaissance”, in the early 2000s, three producers arrived: Andrea Franchetti, Frank Cornelissen and Marc De Grazia. They gave an enormous boost not only to production but above all to promotion and sales, making the Etna area one of the best known and most highly regarded in the world of wine.
How has the world of Sicilian wine changed since you started?
Salvo Foti tastes one of the wines from the I Vigneri winery he runs in Milo with his sons
Rather than change, I would talk about the awareness that we Sicilian producers have acquired over the last thirty years. For a long time, Sicily was a “reservoir” of wine from which many regions in northern Italy and some foreign countries sourced their supplies to increase their production. It was a low-priced wine, sold in bulk, anonymous, with a high alcohol content. Very alcoholic and not very pleasant: this was the common perception of Sicilian wine until a few years ago. Obviously, there have always been producers of quality wines in Sicily,
I Vigneri, tasting time
I Vigneri is a collective endeavour established by Salvo Foti and now continued by his sons Simone and Andrea. We will tell you about it through four labels.
>Etna Bianco Superiore VignadiMilo 2021
Pure Carricante from the Caselle district. It ferments and ages in large barrels of around 2,000 litres: it has aromas of cedar, aniseed and wild fennel. It starts slowly, like someone who has time. Then it opens up with sharp salinity and smoky hints, ending with a clean, precise finish. Nordic character.
but they were few compared to the enormous quantity of wine sold in bulk.
And then what happened?
Everything began to change a few decades ago with the drastic decline in wine consumption and the emergence of a new, more cultured and knowledgeable consumer. They demanded ever higher quality, wine of certain origin, especially linked to the territory in which it is produced. This led to a decrease in the production of anonymous, blended wines and an increase in the number of Sicilian wineries bottling quality wines, thus giving them recognition and added value.
>Etna Bianco
Superiore Palmento Caselle 2020
Again Milo, ungrafted vines and 500-litre barrels. This is a wine that makes its presence felt: full-bodied, spicy, almost exuberant. Yet it surprises with its vertical freshness and a very deep, savoury, rhythmic palate. This is a Carricante you would not expect.
>Etna Rosso Vinupetra 2022
Here we are in the north, in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia, in the Porcaria district, on the Calderara plot: 0.38 hectares of old alberello-trained vines, Nerello Mascalese and traces of Grenache and Nerello Cappuccio. The 2022 vintage has dark and fascinating tones: root, peat, juniper. The palate is dense, tannic and compact. The finish fades into coffee and graphite.
What does Mount Etna mean to you and to the people of Catania?
Mount Etna has always been a point of reference for us. It couldn’t be otherwise. It is a majestic presence, both physical and psychological, from which, in the past, elderly farmers would look up at the white summit of the volcano and draw premonitions, omens and weather forecasts. As a child, I couldn’t imagine my land without Etna, and I naively asked: how do others manage without “a Muntagna”?
How important has “a Muntagna” been in the success of these wines?
>Etna Rosso Vinupetra Viti Centenarie 2019
Extreme selection. The ultra-centenary vines of the same vineyard give life – in very few vintages – to a magnetic red wine. The 2019 has an irresistible balsamic grace: liquorice, wild herbs, a refined vegetal note. In the mouth it is velvety, complex, hypnotic. Only eight hundred bottles, but in each there is Etna to the nth degree.
– L.R.
Etna is an active volcano, constantly erupting, and is always in the media spotlight: every eruption and activity indirectly becomes a form of advertising for this land. This is another reason why Etna is geographically identifiable to the general public and, consequently, so are Etna wines.
What is the status of Etna wine today?
It is only since the 2000s that Etna wines have become known worldwide. A new way of producing wine – no longer in bulk but bottled – has led to an increase in the number of Etna bottling wineries from around
ten to more than 250 over the last twenty years. Many producers, both Etna-based and non-Etna-based, Italian and foreign, with different production styles, have found a home on Etna. Some have oenological experience, others do not; some are very technical, others improvise.
How do you assess the progress of this area? What problems does it pose?
The wine renaissance and international attention have quickly made Etna a global wine phenomenon, a trend that is still ongoing. This can become a problem when those who invest in Etna do not produce “Etna wines” but only wines “made” on Etna. Today, Etna is home to producers of so-called natural wines, luxury wines, artisanal wines, trendy wines, technological wines and industrial wines. The environmental, viticultural, anthropological, economic and social impact is already significant and will
become even more so in the future.
The acceleration in production, which is still ongoing, is transforming the volcano in the areas under vine, in its territorial morphology and viticultural authenticity.
Does all this worry you?
The fear is that the exponential and sudden growth that Etna’s wine industry is experiencing will give rise to uncontrolled and unplanned improvisation: it is in this context that speculators find opportunities. Under these conditions, it is really difficult to imagine what the future will look like.
How can the authenticity of this movement be protected?
The continuity of this important revival of the Etna wine sector can only be achieved by promoting a programme of revaluation of the territory with the aim of preserving and increasing those socio-agricultural activities aimed at conserving the
The Vigneri vineyards in Milo, with the lava flow from the Etna eruption three years ago in the background
natural environment and its resources. Environmental sustainability cannot be ignored if we want to ensure the long-term continuity of all human activities and, above all, if we want to “hand back” to future generations a territory that is intact in terms of its environmental and human values.
You were the first to promote the native grape varieties of the volcano. Was it a winning bet?
I am proud to have brought international attention back to these ancient and unique grape varieties, which otherwise would have been relegated to the past and considered only museum “relics”. Obviously, there is still much to be done in the selection, study, un-
derstanding and improvement of our native grape varieties.
Looking ahead, which is better: Nerello Mascalese or Carricante?
Both Nerello Mascalese and Carricante are grape varieties that find their maximum territorial expression in specific districts of Etna and not indiscriminately throughout the volcano. The unique location of Etna, its altitude, exposure and extreme soil variability (volcanic activity) create different microclimates that are more or less suitable for the cultivation of native Etna grape varieties and others, even within the same slope of the volcano. This also means that it is possible to identify places on Etna that are suitable for the production of particular and new wines.
Is the future of Etna sparkling wines, particularly those made from Carricante, promising?
I believe that Carricante, grown in the highest areas of the volcano, is very suitable for the production of Etna sparkling wines, where the
grapes of this native vine, and also other varieties, can ripen fully while maintaining an adequate acid-sugar balance, which is excellent for a sparkling wine base, without having to drastically bring forward the grape harvest, even in summer, as is done in certain areas, in order to obtain a base wine suitable for sparkling wine production.
What is the future of Sicilian and Etna native grape varieties?
Native grape varieties, both Sicilian and Etna, must increasingly be considered in Sicilian wine production as a valuable tool for the characterisation of wines. However, they need to be well integrated into their territory and cultivated with appropriate vine training systems without resorting to forced production. The native Etna grape varieties are so closely linked to their place of origin, and I would say to the Etna winegrower, that they are inexpressive outside of it.
The importance of the human factor...
The expertise of the Etna winegrower is significant, as over time he has created unique vine cultivation methods that are suited to the particular location. The Etna vineyard with chestnut stakes for each vine, of extraordinary scenic beauty and still visible on Etna, is a production system that meets the requirements of grape quality and quantity, eco-sustainability, vine longevity, low environmental impact and harmony..
Is there room for other native varieties in the future
There are other grape varieties on Etna that can be considered “native” as they have been cultivated for a very long time and are little considered, both legislatively and technically: for example, Grenache, cultivated at altitudes of 1,000 metres and above on the north-western slope of the volcano. Then there are Grecanico, Minnella Bianca and Minnella Nera, and other so-called “relic” grape varieties, which are now the subject of university research. For these grape varieties too, it is
important to have the territory as the ultimate goal. The vine variety is not an end in itself, but part of its terroir and the appropriate winemaking technique: the vine variety alone, as the main objective, can become a fad that is destined to fade away and have no future. We must have territorial objectives before anything else: vine varieties and know-how can be transferred anywhere. The territory and the vineyard cannot.
What is the most promising aspect today? What is still to be discovered on Etna?
It depends on the wine you want to produce and the expression you want to seek. At this precise moment, Etna needs more than novelty; it needs in-depth study, scientific research, greater understanding and, above all, long-term planning. On Etna, it is possible to vary latitude and altitude, so everyone can find their place. Time is of the essence.
Do not stop at appearances or novelty. Producers must be asked to demonstrate their oenological and qualitative value over time.
And instead?
Today, however, we tend to give more credit to novelty, to the latest trends, to marketing. When a good wine satisfies us with its typical qualities and cultural characteristics, then the only thing that gives it added value and elevates it to something excellent is time! Its highest value depends on how long it has been produced, how long the same vines have been producing it and how long the same winemaker or wine-producing civilisation has been producing it..
How would you define your approach to winemaking? Do you feel close to natural wine?
For me, the “naturalness” of a wine is the commitment to intervene as
The rows of vines in the Milo district where Palmento Caselle wine is produced. On the left is the Foti winery little as possible with external energy and products in the transformation of grapes into wine. Producing wine is a human, not a natural, act. For this reason, we have always preferred to define our wines as “Human Wines” rather than “natural wines” or any other label. For us, “Human Wine” is the continuation of the agricultural and viticultural practices of our ancestors, the use of the ancient agricultural system of alberello and palmento, and the sharing and harmony of work with our collaborators and our family. The goal of “Human Wines” is to produce with respect for people and the environment.
How would you define your philosophy? What inspires you?
Ours is a traditional viticulture that incorporates various elements of technical innovation and is inspired by science, knowledge, wisdom and time. My winemaking style has always taken into account three fundamental and essential elements: the territory considered in its entirety, including its soil and climate; the native grape varieties that have always been linked to their territory and cultivated using the ancient art of the Etna alberello; and the skilled winegrower who knows his territory well.
What does wine mean to you today?
Wine is my passion and my work. It is a wonderful opportunity in life to build something that can be passed on and continued by future generations, our children. The vines we plant today, if cared for over time, will outlive us. Our wines are the true, sincere expression of our territory and its civilisation, I would say humanity. Our wines are not an expression of trends or winemaking techniques. You may like them or not, but they are certainly unique and strongly typical of the territory.
Which wines shaped your palate?
Which wines have influenced your taste and oenology?
First and foremost, the wines of the Langhe, the easiest territory to reach. Then, in addition to the wines of Burgundy and Champagne, of course, I found great interest and inspiration in German whites, especially Riesling, and Chenin from the Loire. More recently, the whites of the Jura.
What would you like to taste today? What are your favourite wines?
Beyond my personal taste, which is obviously subjective, I like to taste wines that fully and genuinely represent the territory, the grape varieties and the people who produce them. I prefer to taste a wine together with
producer, the direct creator of the wine, without technical or commercial intermediaries. I want to find the humanity behind a wine.
The world of wine is undergoing profound changes: how are you experiencing them? How are you dealing with the current changes? What stage are we at?
Difficult questions! I can only say that the only certainty we have in this world is change, both inside and outside ourselves. For several decades now, this change has been accelerating, disrupting all our human activities. In our daily work as winegrowers, we try to maintain the values of naturalness, territoriality and eco-sustainability that have always inspired us, aware that every year everything becomes more difficult. But we do not want to abandon our vision and our way of making wine, even if everything is more uncertain and complicated..
A century-old vine with large bunches of red grapes embracing its support along the row
How have tastes changed? And how do you think the world of wine will evolve?
I don’t have enough expertise or knowledge about the commercial side of wine to answer that question adequately. However, I believe that, at least in Western civilisation, wine will increasingly become a cultural component. A hedonistic fact, a symbolic and human ritual.
And what about dealcoholised wines?
“Dealcoholised wines”? All I can say is that they have little to do with our wine culture.
the
The return of Susumaniello, the future in the heart of Salento
In the heart of Salento, among centuries-old olive groves and the salty breeze of two seas, Cantele is today one of the most authentic and recognisable names in the Apulian wine scene.
The company was born from a story of “reverse” migration, when Giovanni Battista Cantele, from the north, chose the south for love, transforming that luminous land into his life’s vocation. Today, with the third generation at the helm – Gianni, Paolo, Umberto and Luisa – Cantele continues to pursue a vision of viticulture that combines rigorous production, agricultural sensitivity and a cultural vision of wine.
The connection with the territory is deep: 50 hectares of owned land and another 100 hectares under cultivation, mostly located around Guagnano, in the province of Lecce. Here, among calcarenitic soils and favourable exposure to the Tramontana and Scirocco winds, native grapes ripen that powerfully express the true soul of Salento: Negroamaro, Primitivo, Verdeca and, of course, Susumaniello.
The latter, forgotten for decades, is now the protagonist of a silent but powerful renaissance. An ancient and shy grape variety, which Cantele
The Cantele family's winning bet, between identity and respect for the land
has decided to enhance with its own style, based on respect, study and dedication. Its grapes, once appreciated for their generous production, are now cultivated with limited yields, to enhance their aromatic concentration and distinctive character.
The result is a surprising red: dense, brilliant, almost purplish. The nose expresses energy, with notes of wild berries, black cherry, black pepper and a slight vegetal freshness that balances its richness. In the mouth, it is young but not unripe, juicy, with well-integrated tannins. It has a liveliness that makes it perfect for both modern cuisine and timeless conversation.
For Cantele, Susumaniello is neither a fad nor an experiment, but a promise. A bottle that tells the story of the future of the South with ancient words and roots firmly planted in memory.
A wine that does not imitate, but stands out. Learn more here: www.cantele.it/prodotti/susumaniello
The grape harvest in Sicily is ahead of schedule. It began at the end of July with Chardonnay, Viognier and Pinot Grigio, the latter two varieties being by no means secondary in Sicilian vineyards, so much so that over 1,100 hectares are certified for the former and over 3,100 for the latter.
Considering that, to our knowledge, there is no pure Pinot Grigio wine produced on the island, it is likely that it is mainly sold outside the region. A machine has been set in motion,
therefore, which between now and October will involve the whole island, from Pantelleria, at an African latitude like Ragusa, to Etna and its vineyards that climb to an altitude of 1,000 metres. Gone are the days, not so long ago in truth, when the island produced close to 10 million hectolitres, with a percentage of bottled wine between DOC and IGT reaching more or less 30%: now, thanks to the pursuit of quality, which certainly involves lower yields per hectare, with vineyard
areas more or less unchanged from the past (110,000 hectares), production in 2024 was just over 4 million hectolitres, most of which was bottled as DOC and IGT. Another positive note is the rapid increase in organic vineyards: with 30,000 hectares, Sicily ranks first in Italy, which is no small feat considering that climate change is much more noticeable on the island than in other regions of Italy. Extreme climatic conditions –above-average daytime temperatures in spring and significant night-time temperature variations – favour the spread of diseases such as downy mildew, which decimated the island’s production in 2023, prompting the Sicilian Regional Government to allocate €25 million to deal with the damage. The situation is repeating itself this year, although it is still too early to assess the damage. However, in addition to the climate, there is a worse scourge: market instability due to the threat of US tariffs has blocked exports to the States since President Trump’s first announcement. Fortunately, the suspension until July has at least allowed all shipments that were still on hold pending agreements between producers and importers to go ahead. This is worth around €100 million for Sicily, which is no small amount.
In any case, it seems that the 2025 harvest, despite starting early, is proceeding well despite a capricious spring and a very hot early summer, which was well balanced by a milder July. It is too early to be certain, but the conditions are certainly in place to bring healthy grapes with a good balance of sugar and acidity to the cellar.
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>Etna Bianco C.da San Lorenzo ‘24
Sicily The 8 Surprises
Tenuta Camporè Randazzo (CT)
It was 2016 when Maria Pia and Cristina Madaudo took over the Camporè estate, restoring the 18th-century villa and its 8 hectares of vineyards to their former glory. San Lorenzo ‘24 opens on the nose with classic mineral, iodine and smoky notes complemented by medicinal herbs, citrus fruits and exotic fruits. It is savoury and lively on the palate, with good depth and a long finish.
91
>Porticello Bianco ‘24
Tenuta di Castellaro Lipari (ME)
The Lentsch family estate covers 22 hectares of bush-trained vineyards with a wine resort and bistro set in enchanting surroundings. The blend of Carricante and Moscato has aromas of jasmine and wisteria, rock salt, yellow fruit and fresh herbs. Juicy but well balanced by acidity on the palate, taut and with a lovely citrus finish.
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>Sicilia Grillo Riserva Zahara ‘23
Casa Grazia Gela (CL)
Grillo has enjoyed a renaissance over the last decade, becoming the second most widely grown white grape variety in Sicily. This dynamic wine has a broad and elegant bouquet with floral notes of orange blossom, citrus, santolina and exotic fruit. Full-bodied and juicy on the palate, with good acidity and a long, pleasantly savoury finish.
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>Etna Rosso Croceferro ‘23
Generazione Alessandro Linguaglossa (CT)
Fourth-generation winemakers, the Alessandro cousins have created their own winery on the north-eastern slope of Mount Etna. The wine opens with the classic “volcanic timbre” between ferrous and haematological, to which are added notes of peach, dark flowers, Mediterranean maquis, spices and salt. Austere on the palate, savoury with dense, fine tannins and a long, spicy finish.
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>Sicilia Grillo Il Piccolo Bianco ‘24
Vinding - Montecarrubo Melilli (SR)
Peter Vinding-Diers, also known as the winemaker of two worlds, moved with his wife Susie to Melilli some time ago, where he has vineyards and a winery. Clear and pleasant on the nose, his Grillo ‘24 has notes of aromatic herbs, wisteria, yellow-fleshed fruit and capers. Energetic and long on the palate, it is well balanced between fruit, freshness and savouriness.
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>Etna Bianco Veni ‘22
Tenuta Ferrata
Rovitello (CT)
The Virlinzi family’s 22 hectares of vineyards are located on the northern slope of Mount Etna at an altitude of about 650 metres between the districts of Moscamento, Fossa San Marco and Caristia. Made exclusively from Carricante grapes, it opens on the nose with notes of yellow fruit, orange blossom, cedar, mint and wet stone. Savoury and fresh on the palate, with lively acidity and great aromatic persistence.
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>Sicilia Frappato Disiato ‘24
Tenuta Navarra Butera (CL)
Founded in 2019, the Navarra family estate covers 175 hectares in one of the island’s most suitable terroirs. The Disiato ‘24 Frappato is exceptionally pleasant, with aromas of fresh red fruit, dark flowers, bay leaves and spices. On the palate, it is fresh, slender, rich in ripe, well-defined tannins, with a long finish and pleasant sapidity.
89
>Sicilia Grillo Nassa ‘24
Ramaddini
Marzamemi (SR)
The winery owned by Francesco Ristuccia and Carlo Scollo is located in the heart of the village, in what was once an old warehouse used to store wines for export. Their Grillo is very good, with a pleasant hint of red salt, herbaceous notes, nettle, fresh almond and orange blossom. Its savoury, full-bodied and persistent taste is also enjoyable in its crystalline freshness.
49
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Sicily The 8 Confirmed
>Noto Nero d’Avola Santa Cecilia ‘22
Planeta Menfi (AG)
Among the many wines produced by this iconic winery, a Nero d’Avola is a must. Dense and refined on the nose with hints of black fruits, peony, eucalyptus, Mediterranean scrub and salted capers, the wine is smoothly fruity on the palate and well endowed with both acidity and tannins, making it a very pleasant wine to drink with excellent ageing potential.
>Etna Bianco Sup. Praino Frontemare ‘23 93
Maugeri Milo (CT)
This wine comes from a spectacular vineyard overlooking the sea and captivates from the very first sip: yellow flowers and Mediterranean scrub, lemon and persimmon, medlar and saltiness.
Elegant on the palate with vibrant acidity that marries well with the fruit and citrus notes, which linger on the long, savoury finish, reminiscent of pink grapefruit.
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>Etna Rosso A Rina ‘23
Girolamo Russo Passopisciano (CT)
With Giuseppe Russo, we never know where the talented musician ends and the winemaker of rare skill begins. Even the most “simple” of his wines has personality and identity to spare. Blackberries, blood orange and peach are among the rich and complex aromas. Elegant, savoury, acidic and lively on the palate with a long, smoky finish.
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>Passito di Pantelleria Ben Rye ‘22
Donnafugata Marsala (TP)
Giacomo Rallo began investing in Pantelleria in 1989. Ben Rye is now one of the best-known and best-selling meditation wines in the world. Refined and complex on the nose with hints of tropical fruits, propolis, candied citrus fruits, sweet spices, honey, baked figs and aromatic herbs. Enveloping and velvety, it leaves the palate fresh and satisfied, with a very long finish.
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>FL Frappato ‘22
Arianna Occhipinti Vittoria (RG)
Arianna Occhipinti is not only a talented winemaker, but also a standard-bearer for those who love local wines. From a small bushtrained vineyard, Frappato FL ferments and ages in concrete. The nose offers refined floral notes, pomegranate, cherries, ripe raspberries and Mediterranean herbs. The palate is graceful and intense, fresh, dynamic and slightly savoury.
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>Etna Bianco Contrada Cottanera ‘21
Cottanera
Castiglione di Sicilia (CT)
Contrada Cottanera is what the French call a ‘Monopole’. The wine comes from a 50-yearold vineyard planted with bush vines and is aged for two years in concrete and another two in the bottle. It amazes with its freshness, both on the nose, with citrus, cedar and lime, peach and jujube, and on the palate, with a volcanic minerality reminiscent of a pebbly seashore.
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>Etna Bianco Muganazzi ‘23
Graci Passopisciaro (CT)
The vineyard is located at an altitude of approximately 700 metres. This white Etna wine has a broad and captivating bouquet, with hints of green citrus fruits, passion fruit and apricot, a smoky note that emphasises the terroir and a delicate touch of white pepper. The palate is savoury and crystal clear, with remarkable aromatic persistence and a satisfying finish.
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>Cerasuolo di Vittoria ‘22
COS
Vittoria (RG)
With 45 years of experience, the winery of Giambattista Cilia and Giusto Occhipinti is one of the benchmarks in this area. Ample and generous on the nose, the wine opens with notes of red fruits, wild flowers, aromatic herbs, but also spices and iodine notes. Fragrant on the palate, ample and well-balanced, with a beautifully intense finish.
Tenuta Luisa: the story of a family and its passion
The Luisas are a family of winegrowers who have been cultivating vines for almost a century in the Isonzo DOC area, which is ideal for producing both white and red wines. The estate is now run by two brothers, Michele and Davide Luisa, who passionately carry on the family tradition, working in harmony and combining the knowledge they have acquired over the years with a taste for experimentation. We are in the far north-east of Italy, in a fascinating border area consisting of a plateau that slopes gently from the hills of Collio and Carso towards the Adriatic Sea. This area is characterised by a Mediterranean microclimate, distinguished not only by the cool, dry winds that descend from the east, allowing for a good temperature range and greater solar radiation, conditions that allow for a slower and more gradual ripening of the grapes, but also by a mainly calcareous soil type, with the presence of red gravel and a layer rich in iron
and aluminium. An ideal habitat, a family united around its wine, a story that speaks of love for their work and for an extraordinary land. A family-run business, capable of preserving, generation after generation, a taste for craftsmanship and respect for the land. The estate covers an area of 110 hectares, where native regional grape varieties are grown, such as Ribolla Gialla, Tocai Friulano, Malvasia, Verduzzo and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, as well as some of the most famous international varieties, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon, Traminer, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc. These wines are intense and elegant at the same time, with balanced acidity and a complex and articulated bouquet, speaking a fresh and refined language. They are the purest and most authentic expression of the Luisa Estate’s production philosophy and the grape variety from which they originate, immediately recognisable on the nose and palate.
Mariano del Friuli (GO) via Campo Sportivo, 13 +39 048169680 tenutaluisa.it
Tenuta Luisa
How Prosecco DOC Brings a Spark of Italy to Special Moments
What makes a moment truly special? Sometimes it’s something as simple as popping open a bottle and watching the bubbles rise gently in your glass. In that instant, everything shifts: a last-minute dinner becomes a celebration, a sunny afternoon turns into a lasting memory. That’s the magic of Prosecco DOC - a true ambassador of the Italian art of living well. Fresh, fruity and incredibly versatile, Prosecco DOC is now a protagonist on tables and in glasses all over the world. An Italian wine that has successfully captured international markets with its unmistakable style and its natural vocation for conviviality. Symbol of Italian winemaking excellence and ideal companion for global gastronomic experiences, every glass shows the pleasure of meeting and the reflection of a cultural landscape made of beauty, know-how and Italian tradition. Prosecco DOC doesn’t need a special occasion to shine - it turns everyday experiences into something memorable. Its crisp, vibrant character
makes it the perfect pairing for life’s spontaneous pleasures. Prosecco tells all this already at the aperitif time, with the Italian Spritz, which has become an international icon: a harmonious blend of freshness, vibrancy, and character, capable of appealing to every palate. Following the iconic Italian style with Select, Campari or Aperol, or trying the Mexican twist: a touch of agave syrup, a splash of White Italian Vermouth, a dash of Cointreau and top up with Prosecco DOC Brut, garnished with a sprig of Mexican oregano and lemon zest. Best enjoyed alongside tacos and guacamole, it’s the perfect blend of Venetian tradition and Mexico’s vibrant energy.
But Prosecco DOC does not stop at the aperitif. Thanks to its lightness, balanced acidity, and elegant aromatic profile, it pairs well with cuisines from around the world, enhancing their flavors without ever overpowering them and Mexican cuisine is no exception.
PROSECCO DOC & MEXICAN FOOD: A SPARKLING MATCH!
Prosecco, with its range of styles, is endlessly versatile - and Mexican cuisine, with its intense, zesty flavors, is the perfect playground for it. Prosecco DOC’s lively bubbles, crisp acidity, and moderate alcohol make it an ideal partner for salty, spicy, lime-kissed, and fried delights.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT STYLE
• Brut – Dry and crisp, ideal for high-acid dishes like lime- or tomatillo-based salsas, and perfect with savory or fried foods.
• Extra Dry – Slightly off-dry and the most popular style, it complements medium-spice tacos, softening chile heat with a whisper of sweetness.
• Dry – Noticeably off-dry, a match for sweetersavory dishes, mild spices, and even desserts.
QUICK PAIRING TIPS
• Heat rises? Sweetness helps. Move from Brut to Extra Dry (or Dry) as chile intensity increases.
• Tangy, citrus-forward dishes? Go drier. Brut’s crispness pairs beautifully with limey and tomatillo flavors.
• Fried or fatty foods? Bubble it up. Brut’s cleansing fizz works wonders, though all styles are welcome.
• Sweet dishes? Mirror the sweetness. Extra Dry or Dry highlights the dish’s fruity notes.
And here we go with some suggestion based on our experience. Prosecco DOC brings sparkle and balance to a wide range of Mexican dishes, starting with fresh and raw seafood. A citrusy ceviche or shrimp aguachile pairs beautifully with a Brut, while Baja-style fried fish tacos with creamy salsa are enhanced by either Brut or Extra Dry, and a sweet-and-spicy shrimp cocktail finds perfect harmony with Extra Dry or Brut Rosé. Beyond seafood, its bright acidity and delicate bubbles adapt effortlessly to a variety of Mexican dishes - from tacos and antojitos like al pastor, carnitas, birria, or tinga, to hearty mains such as cochinita pibil and pollo en pipián verde. Even vegetable preparations , tangy salads, flavorful cheeses , and sweet treats like pan de elote or fruit with chile-lime gain a refreshing lift, proving that Prosecco DOC brings a lively, elegant touch to every corner of the Mexican table - whether raw, savory, or sweet.
Consorzio di Tutela della Denominazione di Origine Controllata
Prosecco
Treviso Via Calmaggiore,23 +39 0422 1572383
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Recipes
from up-and-coming chefs
CHIARA PANNOZZO
photo by Jacopo Salvi
Born in Latina Age 31 Resident in Verona
LATEST ALBUM DOWNLOADED
Mentre Los Angeles brucia (vinile) by Fabri Fibra
LATEST BOOK READ
Tradizione in evoluzione by Leonardo By Carlo
MOST LOVED INGREDIENT
tutto ciò che è edibile e che si può cucinare
LEAST LOVED INGREDIENT
Aglio in polvere, bruciato. Soprattutto se persiste per giorni
THE DISH OF A LIFETIME
Mussels, almond cream, Sichuan pepper oil at Livingstone in Marseille
THE MAESTRO YOU WORSHIP
Eugenio Roncoroni
MOST ESTEEMED PEER COLLEAGUE
Fabrizio Pagliaroni by Buccia Trattoria
NAME OF THE RESTAURANT
>Bue Nero
CONTACTS
Verona piazzetta Navona 8 045 800 8994 buenero.it
RESTAURANT OWNERS
Ilenia and Riccardo Dalfini
SEATS
60/70
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE
chef at Mastrilli restaurant in Terracina
MY IDEA OF CUISINE
Eclectic, colourful, ingredients that blend with different cultures, delicious, satisfying and creative. My motto: “I cook everything that is techno in punk solutions”..
BELOVED RESTAURANT ABROAD
Livingstone in Marseille
THE WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS
Domaine NowackChampagne Les Terres Bleues
HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF…
If I hadn’t had to work at the age of 14 and become passionate about this job, I would have become a criminologist.
DISHES
Pumpkin hummus, green harissa, carrot mousse, caramelised pumpkin seeds
Brisket of heart, tamarind, mirepoix, polenta foam and puffed polenta Pumpkin ravioli
Maritozzo
SOUS CHEF
Melisa Sabljakovic
AGE 26
KITCHEN BRIGADE
Sara Primerano
FRONT OF THE HOUSE
Riccardo Dalfini (Head of Dining Room)
Karol Picone
Martina Tommasi
SOMMELIER
Riccardo Dalfini
INGREDIENTS FOR 6
Pumpkin hummus:
230 g roast pumpkin
70 ml olive oil (not extra virgin)
2 g cumin
5 g salt
40 m lemon juice
1 garlic clove, green core removed
40 g white sesame paste
2 g sweet paprika
2 g turmeric
Green Harissa:
2 tablespoons of ground cumin seeds
40 g fresh coriander
35 g parsley
2 spring onions
6 jalapeños, seeds removed
1 garlic clove, green core removed ½ tsp salt
230 ml olive oil
60 g lemon juice
Carrot mousse:
230 g carrots cooked in salt, and pureed
130 g milk
190 g heavy cream
70 g orange juice
55 g sesame oil
Caramelised pumpkin seeds:
150 g pumpkin seeds toasted in the oven
100 g caster sugar
30 g water
>Pumpkin hummus, green harissa, carrot mousse, caramelised pumpkin seedst
Hummus: Blend everything together, pass through a fine mesh sieve, then place in a piping bag.
Harissa: Pass everything through a medium mincer and store in a container, adding olive oil to cover the sauce to prevent it from oxidising.
Carrot mousse: blend all ingredients in a Thermomix (or similar food processor) at 70°C on speed 3 for 5 minutes; blend again on speed 10 for 1 minute, pass through a fine mesh sieve and place in a siphon, adding 2 nitrogen loads.
Pumpkin seeds: pour water and sugar into a small saucepan, stir until the syrup boils. Add the seeds and keep on the heat until everything is caramelised.
Plate: place the hummus at the base and alternate with harissa and carrot mousse. Finally, add the crunchy part of the dish, i.e. the caramelised pumpkin seeds.
INGREDIENTS FOR 6
1 heart
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp dried coriander
1 tbsp black pepper
1 Tbsp of dried fennel pollen
Celery, carrot and onion for mirepoix
Brown stock
Polenta mousse:
540 ml chicken stock
180 g instant polenta
50 g butter
35 g Grana Padano cheese
1 pinch nutmeg
Salt and white pepper
Polenta wafers:
500 ml water
7 g fine salt
130 g polenta
>Brisket of heart, tamarind, mirepoix, polenta mousse and puffed polenta
Brisket of heart: clean the heart and leave it to marinate overnight in the classic brisket spice and herb rub. The heart must first be cleaned, cut in half, coated in the rub, roasted after marinating overnight and left to smoke for 4 hours with dried herbs. Ideally, it should be sealed, then lightly roasted and left for 4 hours on the embers, so that it is smoked to pink on the inside. It should then be thinly sliced and placed on a plate. Prepare a classic mirepoix with celery, carrots and red onion; brown it, adding the tamaro spice mix (typical of Vicenza, made with nutmeg, coriander, fennel, star anise, aniseed and cinnamon) and moistening it all with a brown stock made with beef bones and reduced to a demi-glace.
Polenta mousse: cook exactly as you would polenta; blend everything in a Thermomix; sieve and place in a siphon with 2 nitrogen charges, keeping it at 60°C in the Roner (it is important that it is at this temperature).
Polenta wafers: cook the polenta, spread it on a Silpat mat, dry it overnight (12 hours) at 55°C (it is important that the polenta is well dried) and then fry it in oil at smoking point (before frying, it should be divided into chips, breaking it into pieces of at least 3 or 4 cm). Salt lightly.
Plate: place the heart at the base, then the mirepoix with the stock. Next, add the mousse with the siphon (kept at 55°C) and the polenta wafers on the side. The idea is to eat the heart alternating with the chips and a little polenta.
travel
Project Carnia
The mountains beyond overtourism: Sutrio welcomes its first widespread hotel. A place of identity, authenticity and anarchy
by Emiliano Gucci
As often happens, the territory embodies the character of its people and vice versa, especially if, over time, it has been possible to protect its identity without giving in to fads or hit-and-run tourism, to those who want everything to be more modern, faster and more appealing, only to complain when the result tends towards standardisation. Carnia is one of those unique places that make our country extraordinary. with its fascinating alternation of valleys and rugged mountains, linking the Friuli plain to the Alps and making it a borderland, even for the soul, where the Via Iulia Augusta was the only route from Aquileia to Carinthia and the peaks of the Zoncolan redraw the contours of an equally iconic sky. Secluded
A room at the Albergo Diffuso Borgo Soandri in Sutrio
In the opening, the view of the valley
villages, Celtic roots and traditions, language and culture handed down in families and communities, between affection for the bell tower and the desire to network, to open up to a contemporary world that preserves its own history.
The genesis of widespread hotels
It was in this context that the now widespread alberghi diffusi (scattered hotels) were born, entire villages that become places of welcome, hospitality and home, where «you are not tourists or even guests, but rather villagers», as Silvio Ortis, president of the Albergo Diffuso Borgo Soandri, explains. In this case, we are in Sutrio, on the right bank of the But river, with 1,200 inhabitants and a history of woodworking, alpine architecture with influences from the Venetian Republic for unique buildings that are difficult to abandon. «The idea came from the poet Leonardo
It was the vision and intuition of a poet, Leonardo Zanier, that gave impetus to the creation of the first scattered hotels in Carnia, which had been destroyed by an earthquake 50 years ago: in Sutrio, but also in Paluzza, Comeglians, Ovaro, Sauris...
Zanier, who, after the terrible earthquake of 1976, saw his Maranzanis –like the entire area – struggling to get back on its feet». Structures were destroyed or damaged, rendered unusable, until the poet’s intuition became a spark, a project: thanks to European funds and a process coordinated with the Region and Municipalities, the buildings began to be renovated for tourist use, «giving rise to a model in which their management, from maintenance to rentals, is left entirely to the cooperative for at least ten years».The model works: houses (as well as barns, rural buildings and 18th-century buildings) are coming back to life,
The value of biodiversity
Just look down carefully to appreciate the value of the land we are walking on: in a single square metre, there is an incredible variety of wild herbs and flowers, medicinal plants, the immediate synthesis of the pure concept of biodiversity, which, according to the figures, certifies over 2,500 species present in Friuli. It is even easier to navigate the harvesting possibilities if you have a guide like Ursula Puntel, who, together with her family, has built her small farm in Cleulis, a hamlet of Paluzza «with about 3,250 inhabitants, still many children playing outdoors». The season in which we meet her is favourable for «nettles and lanceolate plantain, campion, speedwell and buttercups». In her workshop, we appreciate the fruits of her studies in herbal techniques in Urbino: herbal teas and preparations are made from naturally dried wild plants, as well as delicious cheeses, which enhance the milk of the two cows on the farm, which have also become part of the family.
and villages (including Sutrio, Paluzza, Comeglians, Ovaro and Sauris) are becoming the setting for a new way of travelling and living, «offering a taste of the mountains but with hotel-style services»: a central office and night-time availability, breakfast delivered to your accommodation in a magnificent basket filled with local products. For Sutrio, there are now 35 apartments with 150 beds «on the rise», 16,000 visitors a year «doubled in the last five years with tourism becoming less seasonal, the result of business synergy» despite the «anarchic spirit» that is equally typical of the Carnic people.
The Visit Zoncolan network was created with the same aim in mind, bringing together those involved in this development, hotels, restaurants, bars, companies and businesses linked to the agri-food sector, «young people who have decided to stay or return to Carnia to give their projects a future» and offer experiences, excursions, walks and refreshments that take you back to the roots of this land.
Beer between Sutrio and Sydney
The Bon Dai craft brewery, a vivid example of this ferment, is celebrating its fifth anniversary. It is located near the centre of Sutrio, in a renovated disused furniture factory. Arianna and Luca’s idea was born in Australia, as was the name,
with Bondi being a neighbourhood in Sydney and Bon Dai meaning «okay, then» in the Friulian dialect. «We became passionate about beer during barbecues with friends, but we knew nothing about it», they say. «We were doing completely different jobs, and our first home brews were a nightmare». Luca, however, is a tenacious, meticulous guy, and through study and experimentation, he soon achieved good results that allowed him to take the big leap, with his first real “brew” on Valentine’s Day five years ago: «Shortly afterwards, the pandemic brought everything to a halt, but it also allowed us to calibrate our steps». The opening of the (very pleasant) taproom was delayed, but production expanded, with absolute care taken over both the product and the graphics,
The Bon Dai brewery owned by Luca Dalla Torre and his wife
Arianna Matiz (photo by Giulia Binutti)
The La Trute farm owned by Giuliano Vidotti and Selene Filaferro (photo by Denis Blarasin)
with names referring to beloved films (from Point Black to Back to the Future) emblazoned on colourful cans «that better preserve our beers». The range includes pilsners, lagers, IPAs and kellers, from Ben Fumade with smoky notes to Peç with fir needles, for a decidedly mountainous taste.
Trout and cows in the village
In the hamlet of Noiaris, we come across La Trute fish farm, «born from an idea of my father, first a farmer and then an entrepreneur», recalls Giuliano Vidotti, who is assisted in running the business by Selene Filaferro and his two children. The springs that emerge from the clayey soils of the mountain create an ideal environment for breeding white trout, salmon trout and char. «We have a flow of fresh, calcareous, well-oxygenated water», which, in the fascinating system of tanks and jumps, guarantees firm flesh and a delicate taste, «from fish raised with quality food, without forcing», for sizes that reach 4 kilos in four to five years of age. They are sold by weight or gutted, filleted, hot or cold smoked, and even processed into convenient burgers with 90% trout meat.
Let’s take a few steps to meet young Davide Flora (born in 1996) and his farm, the barn that revitalises another vacant shed by raising a herd of mixed-breed goats and more than thirty «pezzata rossa friuliana» breed of cows, which in winter are moved to the 1,500-metre-high Lavareit mountain pasture in the municipality of Paluzza. «We had small farms in different locations, which were too difficult to manage», so it was decided to bring everything together in a new, ambitious project «where the moral and financial support of the family is fundamental», as his
Piwi and resistant viticulture
While in Sutrio we admire the first vineyards and await the results of the harvest, Roberto Baldovin is a pioneer in Carnia. In Forni di Sotto, in the Tagliamento Valley, he runs the winery named after him, Cantina 837, together with his partners Claudio Coradazzi and Andrea Marcato. The focus is entirely on the resistant Piwi varieties, «the only ones that can ripen well in our area, where the altitude (close to 1,000 metres) and climate are not conducive to viticulture». These varieties «allow for limited treatments and respect for the environment», enhancing the peculiarities of the siltyclay soils and those conferred by the night-time temperature variations. Above all, there is a Solaris clone that we find in Vicus, full-bodied but elegant on the palate with almond notes, and then in Mezàn, where it is supported by Sauvignon Kretos. While other colleagues are investing in the surrounding area, here the aim is to make the 8 hectares of land productive, «even with recent plantings of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, again of resistant varieties».
grandfather Albano recalls. When they go up to the high pastures, they produce their own cheese, while for the rest of the year, the milk is delivered to the Alto But dairy, a crucial hub for the agri-food economy of the area.
Community dairy
It takes its name from the river that flows alongside it, and the idea came from a desire to optimise the work «that was previously carried out in individual dairies, village by village», as production manager Patrizia explains: «The farmers took turns assisting the cheesemaker in
the production of cheese», Caseificio Alto But is strengthening its cooperation «so as not to let the farms die out when everyone was fleeing to the factories». A mechanised, modernised hub «to uphold the tradition of quality», guaranteed by excellent raw materials: «milk from lucky cows that graze freely, eating fresh grass for most of the year». Today, there are 54 suppliers providing an average of 100 quintals of milk per month, 13 employees between production and sales outlets, where other local delicacies are also available. Here they produce butter, yoghurt, ricotta and the traditional Latteria semi-cooked cheese, «straw-coloured, with a partridge eye, sweet and delicate in flavour», while Pastorut is a blue cheese made from pasteurised cow’s milk, balancing sweet and spicy flavours. Among the
Carnic products, we would also like to mention the very tasty Frant, made from a mixture of semi-cooked cheeses of various ages, with the addition of salt, pepper, milk and cream, for further ageing of about 40 days.
Bread, pindula and varhackara e varhackara
In the village, bread and typical baked goods can be found at Stefania Puppis’ Bon Pan bakery and pastry shop, which also sells Pite, a Carnic apple pie, and Krofin, sweets from the municipality of Paularo. Meat can be purchased at Flavio Piazza’s Bottega della Carne or at Matteo Nodale’s La Vecje Becjarie, which follows
The maturing room at the Alto But dairy, which has 54 suppliers (photo by Denis Blarasin)
Traditional cjarsòn, ravioli filled with ricotta cheese, spices, herbs and nuts (photo by Denis Blarasin)
in its father’s footsteps by processing Friulian pork and producing pancetta and guanciale, cotechino, sausages and salami «using the finest cuts, including the leg, no spices, just salt, pepper and smoked with beech wood», as for Pindula, a tasty dried meat fillet.
A few kilometres away is the Salumi e Sapori butcher’s shop in Timau, overlooked by the “clays” of the mountains that separate us from Austria. It is here that Massimo Mentil, protagonist of another life change that brought him back from Milan to his native Carnia, produces Varhackara, a «cream of traditional cured
meats, refined and matured over time», which has earned him Slow Food presidium status. It is lard that blends «scraps of salami, guanciale, pancetta and speck, all chopped and mixed without additives», to create a «savoury Nutella» to be enjoyed on a slice of warm bread or as a condiment. Also worth mentioning is Schultar, a pork shoulder produced for Holy Week with three to four months of curing and delicate smoking.
Cjarsòn tradition
A symbolic dish of Carnia, cjarsòns are a type of agnolotti that combines pantry staples with the freshest produce, from potatoes to pears to spinach. Its origins can be traced back to the cramârs, travelling salesmen who sold goods purchased
in Venice across the Alps, such as spices carried in crassigne, wooden chests carried like backpacks. «Once back home, cjarsòns were prepared by sprinkling the bottom of the drawers with flour, hence the endless variations handed down in tradition, ranging from the sweetest to the saltiest flavours». In the courses taught by Chiara Selenati, a food blogger (and more) also known for a publication on French pastries (but whose heart remains in Carnia), you can learn how to make them at home using the Sutrio recipe, with (among many other ingredients) «fresh ricotta, raisins and bitter cocoa, aromatic herbs and dry biscuits», finished with the classic topping of «smoked ricotta, melted butter and a touch of cinnamon».
ADDRESSES
Info and food shops
Pro Loco Sutrio 0433778921
prolocoSutrio com
Albergo Diffuso Borgo Soandri
Sutrio (uD) 0433778921
albergoDiFFuSo org
Visit Zoncolan
Sutrio (uD) 0433778921
viSitzoncolan com
Caseificio Alto But Sutrio (uD) via artigianato, 1 0433 778045
caSeiFicioaltobut it
Macelleria La Vecje Becjarie
Sutrio (uD) via roma, 50 0433778013
Birrificio Artigianale Bondai
Sutrio (uD) via val calDa, 1 347 236 7680
birriFiciobonDai it
La Trute
Sutrio (uD) via peSchiera 0433.778061
flatrute
Bottega della Carne
Sutrio (uD) via martiri, 2 0433 778800
Panificio Pasticceria Bon Pan
Sutrio (uD) via roma 30 0433 778850
Davide Flora holds a goat in his arms in his farm’s stable. (photo by Denis Blarasin)
Azienda Agricola Davide Flora
Sutrio (uD) via XXv aprile 339 489 7244
Salumi & Sapori di Timau timau (uD) via maria plozner mentil, 42 0433 779008
fSalumiSaporiDitimauSnc
Chiara Selenati corSi Di cucina carnica blogthatSamore it
Azienda Agricola Biologica
Ursula Puntel loc cleuliS - paluzza (uD) 339 4150101
$azienDa urSula puntel
Cantina 837
Forni Di Sotto (uD) piazza treDolo, 143b 338 399 5159 - 334 123 9761 cantina837.it
The tables
Osteria Da Alvise
Sutrio (uD) via i maggio, 5 0433 778692
oSteriaDaalviSe it
Agriturismo Naunal loc naunal - Sutrio (uD) 335 774 5403 agrituriSmonaunal it
Enoteca Il Marangon
Sutrio (uD) v le europa unita, 2 3468727062 fenotecailmarangon
La Colonia –Braceria e Cucina a KM 0 Sutrio (uD) via enzo moro, 9 0433 320360
foSteriaacquaeFarinaimponzo
Mister Zoncolan Sutrio (uD) v le val calDa, 13 0433 778147
fmr.zoncolan
Albergo Ristorante da Otto timau (uD) via maria plozner mentil, 15 0433 779002 friStoranteDaotto
The most typical tables
The cjarsòns of Timau (with figs and carob) can be enjoyed at Otto, where the new management of Silvia and Sara ensures continuity in tradition with an eye to the contemporary. Returning to Sutrio, the «alle erbe di nonna Maria» (Grandma Maria’s herbs) offered by Alvise, run by the young Giacomo della Pietra, who promotes seasonal products, mushrooms and game (and the excellent frico is worth mentioning), are excellent. At the Marangon wine bar, they serve platters and burgers with homemade bread rolls and tasty trout, as at Mister Zoncolan, where they also make pizza. La Colonia – Braceria e Cucina a Km0 is the realm of Manuel Benedetti, who offers certified meats and gluten-free dishes, while on the edge of the woods, the Naunal farmhouse serves its own products, from cold cuts to orzotto and the ever-present (and ever-changing) cjarsòns.
Traditional cured meats and varhackara made from lard. Above, Matteo Nodale from La Vecje Becjarie processing Friulian pork (photo by Denis Blarasin)
