Exotics Keeper Magazine March 2023

WHITE’S TREE FROGS: A VET’S PERSPECTIVE

An introduction to husbandry and commonly occurring health problems.

INTO THE WIDE BLUE YONDER

From straightforward stick insects to lovable jumping spiders, invertebrates can be some of the most fascinating of all exotic pets.

ARMADILLO GIRDLED LIZARD

Keeping and breeding the Armadillo girdled lizard (Ouroborus cataphractus) in captivity, with BION Terrarium Centre.

Chris Applin recently visited the remote island of Batanta to understand how blue tree monitors live in the wild.

A GATEWAY BUG

thomas@exoticskeeper.com

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Print ISSN: 2634-4699

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EDITORIAL: Thomas Marriott

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This month, EK has taken a major stride towards reaching global audiences with the launch of the EK Members Club. We felt we were doing a disservice to exotics keepers across the globe by limiting our audience to UK residents. Although we have had support from several host websites, the new EK Members Club will allow readers across the world to access the entire EK library online with a one-off payment. We have also chosen to discontinue many back issues and print a much smaller number of magazines each month to try and be a little eco-friendlier in our production process and instead, offer printed subscription holders’ access to the Member’s Club for free! Currently, we’re still in the process of working out the best way to offer this bonus feature, but I would encourage anyone with a printed subscription to keep an eye on their inbox over the coming weeks.

This month’s magazine covers some extremely interesting topics and again, exemplifies the sort of features we feel are important to exotics keepers. We have expert advice on white’s tree frogs from exotics veterinarian, Dr Michaela

Betts. I also caught up with Chris Applin after his trip to Batanta to understand a little more about the collection of blue tree monitors in the wild. Numerous herpetoculturists have shared their observations keeping and breeding armadillo girdled lizards and we also break down some of the easiest-to-keep inverts in the hobby.

Enjoy the magazine and thank you for supporting EK,

Thomas Marriott Features Editor

Every effort is made to ensure the material published in EK Magazine is reliable and accurate. However, the publisher can accept no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers, manufacturers or contributors. Readers are advised to check any claims themselves before acting on this advice. Copyright belongs to the publishers and no part of the magazine can be reproduced without written permission.

Front cover: White’s tree frog (Litoria caerulea)

Right: Armadillo girdled lizard (Ouroborus cataphractus)

‘Best Aquarium Fish Food’

As voted by readers of Practical Fishkeeping magazine

Aquarium Fish Foods with Insect Meal

Uses cultured insect meal to recreate the natural insect based diet that most fish eat in the wild.

Easily digested and processed by the fish resulting in less waste.

Environmentally friendly and sustainable.

22 32 41

32WHITE’S TREE FROGS: A VET’S PERSPECTIVE An introduction to husbandry and commonly occurring health problems.

41 KEEPER BASICS: Spring Pond Maintenance.

45 FASCINATING FACTS Did you know...?

46 TIPS AND TRICKS

Tortoises in spring - Advice from Eleanor Tirtasana-Chubb.

EXOTICS NEWS

The latest from the world of exotic animals

Baby-Boom at Chester Zoo

A trio of collared trogons have hatched, and a male Western chimpanzee was born to female “Zee Zee”, sired by male “Dylan”. The infant has been named “Jeff” after the late rock guitarist Jeff Beck, and following a tradition of naming chimp infants after musicians. It is the fourth chimp birth in four years at the zoo. A Goodfellow`s tree kangaroo has also been born, to female “Kitawa” – it is the first joey born in the zoo to this species.

started to decline and an investigation showed an inoperable tumour, so on veterinary welfare grounds he was euthanased. He had an incredible life, living to the grand age of at least 64 years. He started zoo-life in 1961 when he first arrived at Paignton Zoo as a youngster. There he bred and the family unit were later sent to Guernsey Zoo in 1982. Here they remained until 1991 when the zoo closed and the gibbon family of “Ben”, “Gill” and their son “James” all came to Hamerton along with 80 other animals from Guernsey Zoo. He was a well-loved character at Hamerton. Keepers are now closely monitoring his daughter “Ash”, who he shared an enclosure with.

World Famous Bird Park Closes

Probably the Oldest Gibbon in Captivity

At Hamerton Zoo in Cambridgeshire probably the oldest gibbon in captivity sadly passed away. “Ben” the lar gibbon had lived at Hamerton Zoo for 31 years, but recently his health had

First American Zoo to Breed Taipans

Omaha's Henry Doorly Zoo and Aquarium has successfully hatched two inland taipans (Oxyuranus microlepidotus) – said to be the most venomous snake in the world. This is especially exciting as it is the first time this species has been bred in any AZA (The Association of Zoos and Aquariums) institution. Of the more than 1,300 organizations listed, fewer than 20 zoos globally hold this species.

After 52 years the world famous Jurong Bird Park, in Singapore closed on the 3rd January. During its final five days of operation over 30,000 visitors came to see the park for the last time. Owned and operated by the Mandai Wildlife Group – who also run Singapore Zoo & Night Safari, the Bird Park had one of the largest bird collections in the world, and certainly in Asia, with 12,000 birds of 500 species. The Mandai Wildlife Group has been constructing a new bird park to be called the Mandai Bird Paradise, and this will open in the second quarter of 2023. Most of the birds will move to this new bird park situated along Mandai Lake Road and adjacent to other areas owned by the Mandai Wildlife Group. However the bird collection and park layout will be smaller than it was at Jurong.

IHS and FBH Announce 2023 Dates

The International Herpetological Society and the Federation of British Herpetologists has recently announced details on the 2023 breeders meetings. Moving from Doncaster to a more

©Chester Zoo

©Matt Tietgen, lead reptile keeperDesert Dome/ Mahoney Kingdoms of the Night

©Hamerton Zoo

central location of Milton Keynes, the events will be held at the Marshall Arena on the 18th of June and 3rd September. Currently, bookings are open for breeders and businesses to secure a table at the event. Patrons are required to pay on the door (£2.50 for members and £7.50 for non-members). The IHS and FBH have declared a string of venue improvements including free parking and a better overall layout.

Record Cane Toad Found

A very large cane toad was found by wildlife officers in a north Australian rainforest. The huge specimen was six times bigger than the average cane toad and weighed 2.7kg, which could be a world record. Cane toads were first introduced to Australia in 1935 – and are now one of the country's most damaging invasive pests, estimated to number in the hundreds of millions.

When wildlife ranger Kylee Gray first spotted the massive amphibian while out on patrol in Queensland, she couldn't believe her eyes. Her team quickly captured the toadbelieved to be a female - and returned to base to weigh her. The current Guinness World Record for the largest toad - 2.65kg - was set by a pet toad in Sweden named “Prinsen” in 1991.

Ms Gray said “this giant specimen likely bulked out on a diet of insects, reptiles and small mammals”. "A cane toad that size will eat anything it can fit into its mouth," she said.

These toads have no natural predators in Australia and they have badly affected the native wildlife populations. The species can live up to 15 years in the wild. Sadly the toad was euthanased, in line with standard practice in Australia for these pests, but her body will be donated to the Queensland Museum.

22nd European Congress of Herpetology to be hosted in the UK

The University of Wolverhampton will be hosting the European Congress of Herpetology this year, from the

4th until the 8th September. The event has not been held in the UK since 1989 and represents a major opportunity for herpetology enthusiasts to hear from leading experts across the continent. Currently, an event has been created on Facebook, but more details will emerge on social media and on the SEH website over the coming months.

New Chinese Cave Fish

A new species of microphthalmic hypogean blind cave fish (Sinocyclocheilus longicornus) was discovered in the Pearl River basin in Hongguo Town, Panzhou City, Guizhou Province, south-west China. It has a bizarre horn-like structure on the back of its head which has an unexplained function. Based on the presence of this long horn-like structure Sinocyclocheilus longicornus has been assigned to the Sinocyclocheilus angularis species group, but is distinguished from its congeners by a combination of morphological characters: the main one being the presence of a single, relatively long horn-like structure on the back of the head, absent pigmentation, reduced eyes, several fin differences and lateral line pores and welldeveloped gill-rakers.

Herpetoculture Conference to be held this month

The Annual Advancing Herpetological Husbandry & British Herpetological Society Conference is due to be held on the 18th and 19th of March this year. The conference, which is organised by leading experts in herpetoculture will feature guest speakers from the UK, Germany and the USA. The event will be hosted by Drayton Manor and weekend ticket holders will receive a guided tour of the widely-celebrated reptile house. More information can be found at www.thebhs.org

©Queensland Department of Environment and Science

Growing prospects for exotics insurance in the UK

Global Pet Insurer, Petcover Group has recently acquired the ExoticDirect brand.

ExoticDirect, which is part of Brooks Braithwaite (Sussex) Limited is amongst the few insurance companies that offer policies for exotic pets.

Having access to a reliable insurance policy is thought to have a positive impact on overall animal welfare standards. Currently, a lot of research is going into the correlation between the availability of exotic vets and the general welfare standards of exotic pets to help better inform government strategies on welfare standards.

It is thought that a wider range of exotics-focused policies will highlight the demand for additional support from vets groups. The subject has recently caused controversy following reports that suggest the British Veterinary Association are in favour of adopting a “positive list” model in the UK.

Petcover Group CEO, Andy Pearce said, “It is an exciting time for Petcover as we expand our offering in the UK Pet Insurance sector. Acquiring Brooks Braithwaite (Sussex) Limited means that we are able to offer the pet lovers of the UK an even bigger selection of insurance products to ensure that their well-loved pets are protected, whether they are at home, with a dog walker, getting a haircut or are on holiday with a boarder.”

The acquisition is also expected to benefit exotics businesses across the UK. Brooks Braithwaite (Sussex) Limited was founded over 30 years ago and over that time has offered Liability Insurance for animal-related businesses, including Animal Clubs, Centres, Shows, Displays and many others. The additional choice of policies may make it much easier for business development within the exotics and zoological sectors.

New Bat Species Discovered

Amanda Grunwald, a PhD student at Portland State University, and her collaborators have described a new bat speciesm - Pseudoromicia mbamminkom, or the “Mbam Minkom Serotine.” Amanda and colleagues have been researching bat biodiversity patterns in the mountains of central Cameroon. This bat was found during a preliminary survey of Mt. Mbam Mountain and is named after the mountain. Further research is needed to uncover the bat’s geographical range which may be isolated to Mt. Mbam Minkom’s forests or it may have a wider distribution.

Collated and written by Paul Irven.

ON THE WEB

Websites | Social media | Published research

THIS MONTH IT’S: BRITISH PET INSURANCE

It’s always worth exploring your options with pet insurance and the British Pet Insurance website makes retrieving a quote, quick and easy, whether that be for your cat, dog, horse, exotic pet or pet business.

www.britishpetinsurance.co.uk

Each month we highlight a favourite website or social media page

Heat Mats, Lamps and Cables

ARMADILLO GIRDLED LIZARD

Keeping and breeding the armadillo girdled lizard in captivity.

By Ivan Neizhko and Oleksii Murushchak at BION Terrarium Centre.

Armadillo girdled lizard (Ouroborus cataphractus)

The Armadillo girdled lizard (Ouroborus cataphractus) is a medium-sized lizard that is found along the west coast of South Africa, from Little Namaqualand, Northern Cape Province (Orange river basin) to the Piketberg Mountains in the south, and up to Matjiesfontein in the western Karoo river basin.

Its common name relates to a specific defensive position that the lizard uses for self-defence. If threatened or under attack, it bites its tail making a “ring” of its own body. In such a position, the lizard can defend itself with its spikes more effectively and escape down a slope by rolling. In this manner, the lizard resembles the mythical Ouroboros (snake from Scandinavian mythology) and the mammalian armadillo. These visual similarities give this species its taxonomic and English common names. This defensive posture protects the lizard’s soft belly, which is its most vulnerable area.

This species, until 2011, was known as Cordylus cataphractus. It is endemic to deserted areas of South Africa (Succulent Karoo biome in the Northern and the Western Cape provinces of South Africa), where it can usually be found among rock crevices, stone outcrops, mountain slopes, stony cracks and hills. There they can easily hide between the elements of micro landscape and sparse shrub vegetation.

O. cataphractus are diurnal reptiles that live in social groups. Sometimes, groups consisting of several males and females can have up to 60 individuals. However, a more typical number is three-six individuals (one male, his harem and juveniles). Intragroup communication signals include head bobbing, tongue flicking and tail wagging. It has been shown that groups are not necessarily composed exclusively of family units and inter-group movement is high. In fact, some females, males and juveniles can move from group to group. This movement occurs both during, and outside of, the mating season. Males are territorial. In groups with multiple males, space is partitioned among them. Although there is some aggression between males within a group, it is much lower than the aggression shown towards an outside male. Females and juveniles do not have established territories. Males defend areas that include more than one female. Females move between different territories, mating with multiple males”

The size of adult individuals can range from 7.53 to 10.50cm

Armadillo Girdled Lizard

(3.0-4.1in) in snout-vent length (SVL). Total length can reach up to 20.15cm (8.05in). The colouration of the body is rather homogenous being light brown (sometimes yellowish) to dark brown. Ventral part of the body is yellow with a blackish pattern, especially under the chin. Rows of spiny scales cover the neck, body, tail, and limbs. Such scalation in combination with behavioural peculiarities prevents many potential predators from seizing or swallowing these lizards. Males are slightly larger than females, with broader heads and more prominent femoral pores. If pressed gently, hemipenes of males will appear at the tail base, but only a skilful and experienced keeper or a vet should do this. An X-ray examination is another option to determine sex. The head and tail are flattened, allowing it to squeeze into rock crevices. Jaws are very strong and the tongue is darkly pigmented. Limbs are of moderate length and digits are unreduced. O. cataphractus can drop its tail when in danger (autotomy) and can grow it back, but very slowly.

However, in captivity if scared, they may bite their own tails in a defensive pose. The spikes of the tail can damage the lizard’s throat and inner area of the mouth causing subsequent health problems – mainly stomatitis.

These lizards are omnivorous. Although, if available, the species will feed on a variety of arthropods, the southern harvester termite (Microhodotermes viator) is the species’ main food source.

O. cataphractus is listed on the IUCN Red List with an “LC” label – “Least Concern”. Previously this species had “VU” (Vulnerable) status due to smuggling, but after the import had been restricted and O. cataphractus was included in CITES (II) – the population recovered and its IUCN status was changed accordingly. O. cataphractus is listed as "vulnerable" in the Red Data Book of South Africa and is protected by law.

Armadillo Girdled Lizard

Enclosures at BION Terrarium Centre Breeding Facility

Keeping and breeding requirements

We have kept and bred Armadillo girdled lizards since 2000. Since 2015, we have kept our animals in wellharmonised pairs or groups. These groups are quite complicated to form and can take time. A group could include a pair (1.1), a trio (1.2) or several males and females (1.3; 2.3). During the formation of the group, be careful, as regardless of gender, the group may not accept one or more of the individuals. In fact, recessive individuals are not let out of the shelter by the dominant

terrariums of 90x50x50 cm (35.43x19.68x19.68 in) per group (1:3) or (1:2) If more shelters are offered and the size of the terrarium allows - the group can be enlarged. A large number of shelters (shards, flat stones of the “torn stone” type, from which shelters are formed like a pyramid) is strongly recommended. The shelters should be formed tightly to prevent falling elements that can injure or even kill the animals. Armadillo lizards have a habit of hiding in cracks, so the shelter should be moderately cramped. Rocks are required for basking places. A water dish with fresh, regularly changed water should always be present inside the terrarium. We use a well-packed clay layer of 2-3 cm (0.78-1.18 in) as a substrate.

We provide a 12-hour lighting period during breeding season 7:00 am to 9:00 pm (14 hours from March to December), UV lamp (ZooMed 10.0) or fluorescent lamp. We also place a 40W incandescent lamp above the basking area. If possible, we use an LED daylight lamp for more intense lighting. Daytime temperature is maintained at +26 - +28°C (78.8-82.4 °F), and at - +22 - +24°C (71.675.2 °F) at night, and the basking point is at about +35 - +38°C (95.0-100.4 °F). These lizards do not like too much heat so the basking spot should be situated in one corner of the terrarium. The opposite side should provide a cooler, ambient temperature, providing the necessary temperature gradient, where the animals can choose the most comfortable conditions. Basking usually takes place in the first part of the day, while the rest of the daytime they spend under the shelters. Humidity is maintained at 50-60% with two sessions of light spraying in the morning and evening.

A group of armadillo girdled lizards ©Rob Nixon

Diet

The main rule with this species is that the diet should be as varied as possible. O. cataphractus is the only species of the genus that also feeds on plants. Live food items include house cricket (Acheta domesticus), banana cricket (Gryllus locorojo), bimaculatus cricket (Gryllus bimaculatus), Turkestan cockroaches (Shelfordella tartara) and, occasionally, freshly shed morio worms (Zophobas morio) and wax moth larvae, but moderately as these are very fatty foods.

Salad mix includes dandelions, nettle, hemp, coltsfoot, wormwood, alfalfa, knotweed, clover, as well as flowers of acacia, roses, blackberry, hibiscus, mallow, linden, aspen, and echinacea (spring-autumn period). Dried food remnants must be removed as the animals will not eat them. Additional plant matter offered in the active season consists of lettuce, Chinese cabbage, dill, parsley, sprouted mung beans, basil, carrots (finely grated), arugula, celery (root and leaves), spinach, cilantro, broccoli and cauliflower, young bean leaves, etc. All ingredients should be finely chopped. During winter dormancy (2.5 months), the lizards don’t receive food at all). Insects are given once every three days at the rate of 5-7 pieces per individual. Salad is offered every other day. Food is offered daily to the babies.

All insects should be gut-loaded before feeding to the lizards. All food items (insects and salad are dusted with vitamin-mineral supplementation (Ca with or without D3 depending on the presence of UV lighting). Sometimes we add bee pollen to the salad.

Breeding

Proper winter dormancy is essential for successful breeding. We hibernate O. cataphractus in the same groups as they live during the breeding season. We never separate the animals (except in situations of clear aggression). Winter dormancy lasts for 2-2.5 months from the middle of December to the end of February. The process is carried out in plastic containers 50x30x15cm (19.68x11.81x5.90in) with lateral and apical ventilation holes. The set-up for hibernation includes a water dish with fresh regularly changeable water, paper as a substrate, and shelters according to the number of animals, but not less than two (Fig. 4). During this time, the animals do not receive food. Two weeks before hibernation, we make a smooth decrease in daylight hours (heating as well) up to four hours a day in the terrariums with breeding groups and stop feeding the animals. This will help them to empty their intestines. During winter dormancy, we provide an ambient temperature of +16 - +18°C (60.8-64.4°F). Some breeders provide information about successful hibernation at +12°C (53.6 °F) which coincides with the climatic data of the area where lizards live in the wild. However, even during winter O. cataphractus should have a place/time to warm up. Some breeders turn on the lighting and heating for 3-4 hours per day if the animals are kept in the same terrarium as during the breeding season. In our approach, animals are transferred to plastic boxes, where any lighting is absent. We solved this problem using a heating cable. This cable is connected to a timer and goes under the row of wintering boxes along the same side. Every day the cable is switched on for 3-4 hours, so the animals can warm up on the part of the box heated

Rob Nixon’s pair of O. cataphractus in copulation ©Rob Nixon

by the cable. Animals are checked regularly and the air is changed as we open the lid. The process of waking the animals up from wintering is directly opposite to the winter preparation process. After the end of hibernation, plentiful spraying (sprinkling) of water in the mornings is very important. It is necessary to continue sprinkling after wintering for three months, until the mating period.

O. cataphractus become sexually mature at three years of age. However, they gain adult size at the age of two. According to our observations in captivity, and the reports of some colleagues and sources, the male can mate shortly before wintering (during the preparation period) and soon after hibernation (Fig. 5). In the first case, females might spend winter dormancy being gravid and give birth to the babies in May-April. In the second case, we found the babies are born mainly in September-October. This can prove that the changes in lighting period and temperatures are the key factors to trigger mating behaviour. Gestation lasts about five months.

A female gives birth only once in a season (they are ovoviviparous). The litter typically consists of one baby. In rare cases, there can be two babies at once, but, in those cases, they are weaker and smaller. Sometimes females take a break from breeding for one season. For the first

few days, we usually keep babies with their parents. Then there are two options to choose from:

1) The babies can remain in the group which, according to many breeders, has a positive effect on reproduction. As these animals live in groups, an increase in the group is always a good incentive. However, there are disadvantages to this approach, because if the group wants to expel the baby for any reason, it will be difficult to notice as the animals are secretive which can lead to fights and injuries.

2) New groups of three to four babies can be formed, then reorganised as the babies grow and their sex is determined. Sex is determined after reaching adult size (at the age of about 2 years), and, as stated above, by pressing on the base of the cloaca and eversion of the hemipenis in males.

The average weight of newborn babies is 7-8g. Their total length is about 8-9cm (3.14-3.54in). In 2020, we got one baby from our breeding groups. However, in 2021, when we switched from wintering only based on decreasing photoperiod to wintering based on both temperature and lighting decrease, we got four babies and one born dead in late spring.

O. cataphractus twins produced by Rob Nixon in 2018 ©Rob Nixon

KEEPER NOTES ON THE ARMADILLO GIRDLED LIZARD

Note from Shane Albrecht private breeder who keeps and breeds this species successfully for many years.

“I keep my O. cataphractus in a 1.1 group with the last year’s baby staying with them for the first year. This enclosure is 5x2x2 ft (152x61x61cm) with natural sandstone rocks stacked throughout the enclosure. I use a 4ft (120 cm) 14% UVB bulb, an additional 12-watt 5,000k LED on the cool end of the enclosure and two 40W halogens on a dimmer for the basking area that reaches about 105.0 F (40,5 °C). I feed only insects consisting of crickets, Turkistan roaches, green banana roaches and dubia roaches. I feed every other day with dusting twice a week with calcium/vitamin/mineral dust. I use an astronomical timer that adjusts the lights to match the natural day length at my house in Texas, USA.”

Note from Lydie Devost-Verger private breeder, Owner at “Didiegecko Aft France”.

“I maintain my O. cataphractus by trio only. I provide lots of hiding places with stones. At the hot spot I have + 40°C (104.0°F) in the summer. I spray them twice a week. In winter I turn off the heating and leave only the ProT5 UVB with a temperature around +20+22°C (68.0-71.6°F) during the day. To prepare for winter dormancy, I feed them until November 15, and then from November 16 to December 1, no food is offered. On December 2, I cut heating and lighting until January 15, after which the process is reversed to wake them up."

Note from Luc Jacobs private breeder, Belgium.

“I started with this species in December 2013 when I received a (so-called captive-bred pair) in trade for some Rhacodactylus leachianus They were and are still housed in a 120x60x60cm cage in a room with much daylight. For extra lighting, UVB and heat, two separate heating spots

were created using two 35w HID bulbs. I have used several brands and they all did their job. They are regularly replaced after reading their output with a Solarmeter 6.5.

The animals started eating without problem - they are fed with crickets, locusts, waxworms, super worms and roaches, all gut-loaded and dusted with minerals. The pair got along very well.

Lighting was on for 14 hours from March till November. In November, lights were left on for six hours and ambient temperatures dropped to +10+15°C (50.0-59.0°F). I keep feeding once every 14 days during the cooldown period."

Note from Rob Nixon –private breeder, Arizona, USA.

“I have been keeping O. cataphractus since 2013, with successful reproduction every year since 2014. I keep them mostly in 1.1 pairs, but I also have one 1.2 trio. I keep the babies with the adults for up to two years. On one occasion a 2-year-old male living with his parents displayed bite marks on the tail and

flanks indicating aggression from one or both adults. I think it may be better for faster growth to keep the babies in pairs or groups together and feed them several times a week. Under my current conditions, 4-yearold animals are just reaching adult size. I think this can be achieved in two-three years, but it may not be natural for them to reach maturity this quickly. Keeping the babies with the adults does not, in my experience, reduce the likelihood of successful reproduction in the subsequent years. Typically, females give birth to a single neonate - however, one female in my care produced twins three consecutive years in a row."

Author(s): Ivan Neizhko 1, Oleksii Marushchak 2, Shane Albrecht 3, Francois Busson 4, Lydie DevostVerger 5, Luc Jacobs 6, Rob Nixon 7 1 – Senior Keeper, BION Terrarium Center, Ukraine; 2 – Head, Research and Development Department, BION Terrarium Center, Kyiv, Ukraine; 3 – Private breeder, USA; 4 – Private breeder, France; 5 - private breeder, owner at “Didiegecko Aft France”, France; 6 – private breeder, Belgium; 7 – private breeder, USA.

Armadillo Girdled Lizard

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

The wonderful world of exotic animals

Budgett’s Frog (Lepidobatrachus laevis)

There are three species of Budgett’s frogs, all of which have been available in the hobby at some point. L. laevis is the most readily available while L. asper has been scarce for a good number of years. Visually, identifying the three species is quite straightforward and it is easy to work out which species is which.

Budgett’s frogs fall into the same family as the Pacman frogs and occupy a similar habitat. These species come from the Chaco which spreads across Northern Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. The Chaco grasslands are seasonally flooded for much of the year, before drying out completely for the remainder of the year. During this dry season, the frogs will burrow down into the earth and return with the rains.

As the wet season arrives and these frogs resurface, they become explosive breeders. They will produce huge amounts of spawn which develop into voracious tadpoles. These tadpoles will eat and grow as fast as possible in a race to metamorphose. This extends beyond the development

cycle as they predate each other and eat everything they can before the arrival of the next dry season.

Once we understand the natural history of the Budgett’s frog, all the clues are there for successful captive keeping. Keepers should provide an adaptive environment between 20°C (night) and 28°C (day) with a shallow water section and some terrestrial space. This would work particularly well in a naturally planted paludarium, where the frog can part-submerge in the shallow water, but peer above the floating plants ready to ambush its prey. Unless breeding, we should avoid drying the enclosure out completely. Taking away the extremes of an animal’s wild conditions is advised. Just because the animal can endure the extreme does not mean they enjoy it.

Prey items should be comprised mostly of typical feeder insects. Crickets and locusts are ideal as they will cling to cork bark in the aquatic section, as opposed to mealworms which are susceptible to drowning. A defrosted pinkie mouse can also be fed every couple of weeks providing care is taken with the tweezers to avoid damage to the frog’s mouth. Pinkie mice are also very rich in fat and high in protein so should be reserved as a treat.

FISH SCIENCE

With Dr David Pool

How much should I feed my fish?

This is a difficult question to give an exact answer to as the amount to feed will depend on how many fish you have, how big they are, what the water temperature is, when they were last fed etc.

However, the golden rule of feeding them 2 – 3 times a day on as much as they will eat within 5 minutes is a good one to follow. This will certainly change throughout the season. In cold weather the quantity the fish will eat in 5 minutes may be as little as 2 or 3 food sticks, whereas at a pleasant summer temperature of 20°C the same fish may eat several handfuls of food.

The amount you feed to your fish may not seem very much, but remember that food sticks or flakes are only 8% water, whereas the natural food your fish will eat (algae, insects, shrimps etc) is over 80% water. So, the dried foods are 10 times more concentrated.

When feeding your fish, you don’t want them to lose interest and there still be food on the water surface. Any uneaten food can decompose and pollute the water. As a result, it is best to err on the side of underfeeding.

the 5-minute rule and make sure everything is eagerly consumed – they will eat less at each meal.

Dr David Pool is the author of 3 books on aquarium and pond keeping as well as over 250 articles on fishkeeping. He has appeared on national radio and television across the world to promote fishkeeping and given talks on the subject throughout the world.

Once your fish have settled in your pond, they will quickly learn to rise to the surface every time you go near. Don’t be tempted to feed them just because they do this, they don’t need any more food! If you wish to, you can replace the 2 – 3 feeds with more frequent feeding, but still follow

A GATEWAY BUG

The best invertebrates for beginners.

Regal jumping spider (Phidippus regius)

Invertebrate keeping is one of the fastest-growing areas of exotic pet keeping. Not only do thousands of people in the UK keep bugs, but a lot of those people keep thousands of bugs. Invertebrates are generally easier to keep than most reptiles and amphibians, demand less energy and require less space. Furthermore, there is a huge selection of frequently imported or captive-bred inverts available to hobbyists, meaning that there is a bug for everyone. Invertebrates offer an excellent introduction to exotics keeping. From straightforward stick insects to lovable jumping spiders, invertebrates can be some of the most fascinating of all exotic pets.

Stick insects

Giant prickly stick insect

(Extatosoma tiaratum)

Giant prickly stick insects tick all the boxes when it comes to looking for a pet invertebrate. Wonderfully weird, easy to care for and capable of becoming huge, these animals will forever be popular among keepers. Coming from Australia and New Guinea, these Phasmids are some of the most impressive insects in the world. Like many stick insects, this species expresses drastic sexual dimorphism with the females being much larger and bulkier than the males.

A perfect beginner invert, the giant prickly stick insect will feed on blackberry, raspberry, oak, rose and eucalyptus. These can be harvested from outside, with blackberry bramble available all year round. Room temperatures

of 21°C+ are perfect and a large mesh enclosure with a constant source of water (usually provided in a shallow bowl) will provide a good home for this species.

Stick insects can breed prolifically and therefore, make the perfect introduction to breeding animals - especially for young people. Some keepers will even breed stick insects to provide a more natural live food diet for some animals such as chameleons and monitor lizards.

Black velvet stick insect

(Peruphasma schultei)

The black velvet stick insect is an interesting contender for the most popular invertebrate species in the UK as it was only discovered in 2005. It originates from a tiny native range of about five hectares in Peru. As stick insects can

produce eggs every single day, it hasn’t taken long for this species to establish itself in the pet trade.

As a stunningly unique species of stick insect with very easy-care requirements, this species is on the rise in popularity. Perhaps the only thing holding the black velvet stick insect from reaching the same popularity as others on this list is the pungent fluid they produce as a defence mechanism. This fluid, whilst mostly harmless, can cause skin irritations meaning this is not ideal for young children or classroom pets.

Sunny stick insect

(Sungaya inexpectata)

Sungaya is a monotypic genus of stick insects containing the species S. inexpectata, commonly known as the

‘sunny stick insect’. The first specimen of this species was discovered in the Philippines in 1995 and has since established itself in the exotics-keeping hobby due to its parthenogenic abilities.

Like other stick insects featured in the list, this species is very easy to care for. A mesh enclosure with a diet of hawthorn, bramble and ivy and a small water bowl is ideal. The sunny stick insect is a more manageable size compared to its giant spiny cousin. Both males and females will grow to around 8cm, although females are considerably girthier. Although both sexes are variable in colouration and patterns, this species is often characterised by a long dorsal stripe.

This species can reproduce parthenogenically, meaning that even just keeping one female can lead to lots of eggs and baby stick insects in the future.

Giant prickly stick insect (Extatosoma tiaratum) Sunny stick insect (Sungaya inexpectata)

Black velvet stick insect (Peruphasma schultei)

Myriapods African train millipede

(Archispirostreptus gigas)

Another extremely easy-to-care-for species, the African train millipede is an impressive myriapod that is widely available and inexpensive. Currently, they are being imported in large numbers, so the hobby could seriously benefit from keepers taking time to breed these popular millipedes in captivity.

A terrarium or Really Useful Box that is at least twice the length of the animal is a suitable enclosure. A heat mat placed on one side of the enclosure should help maintain a temperature gradient between 23°C and 29°C with a stable humidity of 70-80%. The substrate should be light and soil-based with plenty of leaf litter. African train millipedes make great introductory myriapods as they will actively feed on most fruit and veg and while decaying wood may be beneficial, it is not a necessity with this species. Keepers should provide a calcium supplement or cuttlefish bone, as well as oak and bramble leaves to help with exoskeleton development.

Archispirostreptus gigas is perhaps the most popular of the millipedes, but this species does produce some defensive liquids that can sometimes cause an allergic reaction. While most people will be perfectly safe, hobbyists should adopt a hands-off approach with these animals just in case.

Yellow banded millipede

(Anadenobolus monilicornis)

The yellow-banded millipede is a strikingly coloured species of the Rhinocricidae family. They can be found

can add a splash of colour as an interesting alternative to isopods in a bioactive enclosure. They will typically feed on decaying plant matter at a faster rate than isopods but are considered poisonous so should only be housed with tankmates that are unlikely to eat them.

The yellow-banded millipede requires temperatures between 22°C and 24°C with high humidity (around 80%). It is also important to ensure they receive a good amount of calcium, either by dusting the vegetables with a calcium powder or through the provision of cuttlefish bone.

Yellow-banded millipedes are communal and in the wild, can gather in large numbers.

Ghana speckled millipede

(Telodeinopus

The Ghana speckled millipede is an unusual Myriapod in that it is arboreal. For the keeper who is looking to set up a micro arboreal terrarium but wants a species that is very simple to look after, the Ghana speckled millipede is an ideal candidate. Although they are mostly nocturnal, their impressive size (up to 19cm) and tendency to utilise all available space in the terrarium makes them one of the best pet millipedes. Because they are quite active, they do require slightly more space than other millipede species, but this is certainly a worthwhile investment as these bugs can live up to five years. Glass terrariums are preferred but plastic tubs can also be fit for purpose providing that the lid is secure and it has appropriate ventilation. Like the African train millipede that occupies a similar habitat, these inverts prefer it on the warmer side at around 26°C.

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African train millipede (Archispirostreptus gigas)

Yellow banded millipede (Anadenobolus monilicornis)

Others

Madagascan hissing cockroach (Gromphadorina portentosa)

Madagascan hissing cockroaches have been available in the hobby for decades and with good reason. This is one of the few species of cockroaches that cannot fly, making them ideal pets. They can live up to five years in captivity and grow up to 8cm in length. Males can be distinguished from females by their thicker antennae. The females have reasonably complex relationships with their children, staying in close physical contact with them for long periods.

Provided these invertebrates are given an enclosure that’s dark and warm (+24°C) and provided with plenty of decaying wood or cork bark, they should thrive. Feeding is straightforward - provide a staple of dry dog food supplemented with small chunks of fruit and veg (very moist fruits should be fed sparingly). Water can be provided in a shallow dish with a sponge, or in a container with a cotton wick to drink from. Once this environment is established, the colony should breed readily.

Madagascan hissing cockroaches are also considered viviparous. The mother will carry the egg sack until it hatches, meaning she will produce live young. These young cockroaches are extremely delicate before they develop their hardened exoskeleton. At this stage, they should not be handled, but excess juveniles are frequently used as feeder insects in many establishments.

Orchid mantis & African mantis (Hymenopus coronatus) & (Sphodromantis

lineola)

Unique, stunningly beautiful and readily available, the orchid mantis is one of the best pet invertebrates on the planet. Although slightly more complex to care for, the orchid mantis has remained firmly on the list of mostpopular invertebrates for some time.

Orchid mantises are variable in colour and change colouration throughout their life cycle. This, along with their incredible hunting techniques, mesmerising movements and savage breeding reputation, makes the orchid mantis a great observational animal to keep.

Coming from the tropics of Malaysia, orchid mantises should be kept warm (around 28°C) and will need to be provided with some form of heat. They are reasonably hardy and some breeders choose to keep males below 18°C to slow their development as they naturally grow much quicker. For normal development, this temperature is only suitable for night-time drops. Orchid mantises also require high humidity between 65-80%.

If the orchid mantis is considered a beauty, the African mantis is certainly the beast. Females can reach up to 8cm in length and this species is renowned for hunting prey across its entire enclosure. It’s extremely active and predatory and makes for an ideal observation animal.

Coming from sub-Saharan Africa, the African mantis requires slightly cooler temperatures than the orchid mantis (around 25°C) and much lower humidity (50-60%). As a larger species, housing them in a glass terrarium will be rewarding for both the animal and the keeper.

Regal jumping spider (Phidippus regius)

Jumping spiders are relatively new to the hobby of invert keeping but have exploded in popularity in recent years. The regal jumping spider is by far the most popular species and encapsulates all the positive attributes of this immense group of arachnids. As diurnal, active hunters, the regal jumping spider is a joy to watch and as one of the larger species in the hobby (reaching up to 2cm in length). Within a manageable set-up, they provide great entertainment.

Although they are reasonably easy to care for, they are a newly emerging species in the hobby and keepers are still making mistakes. An appropriately sized enclosure, kept in a brightly lit environment is key to being successful with this species. Food items must be smaller than the spider’s abdomen and water can be provided in a shallow dish. Temperatures should be kept above 23°C, although humidity can fluctuate. A light misting every other day should maintain a healthy humidity.

There are numerous ways to create an appropriate enclosure for regal jumping spiders. For example, a plastic tub will comfortably house a jumping spider, but a plastic ‘arboreal keeper’ or other dedicated enclosure makes things more practical. Even a nano glass terrarium can make for a beautiful display enclosure.

Regal jumping spiders are extremely charismatic invertebrates and perhaps the "cutest" of the spiders. They exhibit interesting hunting behaviours and make excellent pets. They should be fed suitably sized prey, kept reasonably warm and require a good amount of lightsimilar to many popular reptiles. However, jumping spiders live for around one year, meaning they are far less of a commitment than introductory pet reptiles.

Regal jumping spider (Phidippus regius)

INTO THE WIDE BLUE YONDER

Searching for blue tree monitors in the wild.

The blue tree monitor (Varanus macraei) is a reptile doused in mystery. Only officially described in 2001, the “blue lizard of Batanta” has historical ties with the people of Raja Ampat and now, international interest in the herpteculture hobby has strengthened those ties even further. Since its discovery, the blue tree monitor has been subject to extensive export in line with quotas set by the Indonesian government. Data and research on the sustainability of this harvest are limited, but as V. macraei has one of the smallest distributions of all Varanids (measuring just over 455km2) conservationists are concerned. While the UK and Europe are on the cusp of telling a successful tale of captive breeding efforts resulting in reduced demand for wild-caught monitors, the rest of the world is yet to catch up. Experienced Varanid breeder, Chris Applin recently visited the remote island of Batanta to understand how these animals live in the wild and the complicated politics around their collection.

The Raja Ampat Islands

The islands of Raja Ampat off the coast of West Papua are home to a dizzying array of species. Situated in the heart of Wallacea, these islands have seen incredible speciation over millions of years. Raja Ampat is particularly famous for its birds of paradise (Paradisaeidae), of which each island has a very distinct and beautifully coloured species with unique mating behaviours. Like the birds of paradise, the tree monitors (Hapturosaurus) of the region also exhibit unique colours, behaviours and species. Each island in Raja Ampat is home to a different member of the "prasinus complex", a term coined to differentiate the many species previously thought to be synonymous with the green tree monitor (Varanus prasinus). The blue tree monitor is found on Batanta, the yellow tree monitor (V. reisengeri) is found on Misool, the golden-spotted tree monitor (V. boehmi) is found on Waigeo and the green tree monitor (V. prasinus)

is found on Salawati and mainland New Guinea.

Because Raja Ampat has gained a reputation for its bird life and excellent diving, the town of Sorong acts as a gateway for tourists. It is the largest city in the Indonesian province of West Papua. It also acts as a harbour port for Indonesia’s oil and gas trade and hosts a domestic airport connecting Papua to the rest of the archipelago. Sorong is also famous for several localities/forms of species that are well-established in the pet trade such as the “Sorong” green tree python (Morelia viridis) and “Sorong bar neck” scrub python (Simalia amithistina). Part of this is due to the easy harvesting and export of local fauna from the region surrounding the city. Once exporters in Sorong heard about the “blue lizards” of Batanta, their attention soon turned towards Varanus macraei

The international trade of macraei

Blue tree monitors have been soughtafter in private collections since their discovery. Their alluring colouration and remarkable cognitive ability make them very appealing pets. After a few specimens were successfully exported to the US in the early 00s, a snowball effect began to form.

Chris explains: “The story of the macraei is that people on Batanta showed my friend, Nurdin, a blue monitor they had caught whilst he was

helping a film crew look for Crocodile monitors in the late 90s. This was the first time anybody from outside Batanta had seen Varanus macraei. He told of this monitor to a German friend of his, Manfred Resinger, who later led an expedition to collect the first macraei. Shortly after, a collector in Sorong heard about this and so they sent some hunters from the Aru Islands who had already been collecting the black tree monitors to the town of Amdui in Batanta. These hunters began training the local people how to catch the macraei and make money. Now, there are about 30 guys in Amdui

that rely on the collection of blue tree monitors for

their income.”

The species was officially described later in 2001. The name macraei is in honour of herpetologist, Duncan Macrae who founded the Bali Reptile Park and is thought to be the first person to export the species to the USA.

International laws such as CITES regulations are implemented to protect endangered species. Varanus macraei is listed as an Appendix 2 species under CITES regulations. This means that their trade is restricted to certain export

Varanus macraei in the wild ©Chris Applin

quotas and paperwork. In recent years, these quotas only permit the sale of captive-bred individuals.

The collectors sell the lizards to exporters in Sorong at around £30 per lizard. They are then shipped from Sorong to Jakarta.

“The farms in Jakarta should be captive breeding them for export,” adds Chris. “However, it has been suggested that some of the farms might be laundering lizards through as captive-bred. This has been shown with green tree pythons in a paper by Jessica A. Lyons and Daniel J.D. Natusch (Wildlife laundering through breeding farms: Illegal harvest, population declines and a means of regulating the trade of green pythons (Morelia viridis) from Indonesia). The idea is that they should be getting some wild-caught breeding stock together and breeding them in the farms and producing F2 stock for export and only collecting wild-caught animals occasionally to repopulate their breeding stock”.

A recent paper (Mating behavior and breeding of the blue tree monitor, varanus macraei in an in-country facility in indonesia: a preliminary note by Beny Rahmanto et al) has shown that one of the leading farms in Jakarta has documented the captive breeding of Varanus macraei Hopefully, their knowledge can be passed on to others to help propagate the species in Indonesia.

Europe only permits the import of juvenile tree monitors under a specific size to help ensure that the animals have been truly captive bred.

Chris continues: “Before the macraei harvesting they were pearl farming and then some logging in the early 2000s. If you speak to the older generations in Amdui, they do care about the lizards. They don’t want to have to tell their grandkids about the blue lizard they used to have. Plus, this is their main source of income. I told them that if CITES say tomorrow that they are Appendix 1, there will be no legal trade anyway.”

Cutting the legal trade of animals can sometimes result in increased poaching and smuggling. The animals often increase in value, creating higher stakes for hunters and buyers. As the entire chain is moved “underground”, it may also encourage other crimes in the region.

On the ground in Batanta

Chris visited Batanta with a local guide named Nurdin Ohorella, who had previously led a range of expeditions and helped to lobby against the illegal logging that was happening in Raja Ampat in the early 2000s. Nurdin was present when the first reports of macraei were passed onto the collectors in Sorong and now feels dutybound to show tourists the lizards

as a more sustainable alternative to the wild collection.

“The flight time was around two days. I went from London to Dubai, Dubai to Jakarta and Jakarta to Sorong. Here, I met Nurdin and we caught a ferry to Waigeo, where we chartered a longboat. Less than an hour later we were on our way to Batanta.”

Chris keeps and breeds a variety of tree monitor species and is thought to be the first person in the UK to successfully breed Varanus reisengeri, the yellow tree monitor. Having previously visited Australia several times to find and photograph Varanids, the trip to Batanta is the first step towards Chris’ goal of publishing a book on the prasinus complex and photographing every species in the wild. “My thoughts before I went there was that the locals should stop collecting them altogether” explains Chris. “We’ve had so many exported into private collections that the trade doesn’t need any more! They’re breeding really well in Europe and there’s just not the need. But, after visiting, I’m kind of in the middle. They’re very poor so you can’t stop them from doing it and the alternative is logging or over-collecting from specific locations. I hoped to educate the locals on the sustainable collection and the long-term goal would be getting them to start breeding them in situ.”

A camp that the hunters work from ©Chris Applin

Existing literature reports on local extinctions of blue tree monitors, which paints a very worrying picture for the species. Herpetological hearsay also produced a rumour that macraei were already extinct, partly because the original species description came from a captive specimen and exports dramatically reduced in recent years due to covid. Both claims are now proven to be false.

Chris continues: “Back in 2000, they were catching the blue tree monitors in the village of Amdui. Since then, they have taken down some of the forest and replaced it with bananas and coconut trees to sustain themselves. This is where it’s conflicted when we talk about local extinctions. Indeed, the monitors can’t be found in Amdui anymore, but 10 minutes away we did manage to find two in the space of an hour.”

Chris and Nurdin joined a team of two hunters and found one or two blue tree monitors each day. He slept

in the camps that the local people would typically use when harvesting the monitor lizards, establishing small huts in locations that have a fruitful population of lizards. “Because the centre of Batanta is extremely steep and mountainous, the locals will only collect from around the coast where it’s easy to access,” adds Chris. The terrain of Batanta may award some form of protection from overexploitation. On “good days” a group of five hunters can collect up to 10 individuals per excursion. The hunters are given an order from Sorong to collect X amount of macraei, reisingeri or boehmi and they will then visit the corresponding island, adopting the same hunting strategies to catch all lizards - a bamboo pole with a noose on the end known locally as a Gancho and scale the trees barefooted.

“They rarely visit Misool because it is so far away,” Chris says. “Misool is perhaps a five-hour ferry, so they don’t collect nearly as many yellow tree monitors as they do for the other species.”

Habitat of blue tree monitor ©Chris Applin

Sustainability of wild collecting

If international laws were abided by, only a few blue tree monitors would need to be collected from the wild. Hobbyists now know how to breed the species with great success and even though they are far too expensive for most keepers, dedicated Varanid enthusiasts (who are also most likely to contribute to breeding efforts) can frequently source them. Unfortunately, harvesting has now become the only method of income for many families in Amdui. A ban could not only drop them further below the poverty line but potentially cause a scenario where people must exploit other natural resources to feed their families. Chris is working closely with Nurdin and some tour companies to promote the concept of eco-tourism.

“Raja Ampat is already geared up for eco-tourism because of the endemic species of birds of paradise,” Chris explains. “The infrastructure is there and there’s even a pretty good ferry system between the islands. I was discussing with the local people in Amdui about the idea of setting up a homestay and allowing people to visit the island to see the monitor lizards more frequently. It’s just a pipedream now, but they seemed keen to set something up. When I visited, I would pay the hunters daily no matter if we found anything or not, plus a tip for each lizard that we found. I would give each hunter the equivalent of the price of a lizard to photograph the monitors and release them afterwards. If a few groups of people did that a few times a year, it wouldn’t be long before the people in Batanta think it’s better to leave the lizards alone and have a better chance of spotting them with tourists.”

This model has worked in various places across the world. Some endemic Dendrobatids in Colombia and Northern Peru are protected by tourists as locals are incentivised to preserve the habitat and even use artificial breeding pools to support the reproduction of frogs. Costa Rica

incentivised land owners to grow rainforests by investing heavily in tourism infrastructure and providing government grants. While it might be a long time before Indonesia adopts a model like that, information can be passed on to locals about the value of their natural resources. “They were absolutely shocked that anyone was even breeding the monitors outside of Indonesia,” Chris says. “They only see the smaller picture, just up until they hand over the lizards in Sorong. When they heard that people dedicate their lives to studying and breeding them, they were shocked. Some of them even suggested that they breed them on the island in situ! They are protective of the monitors and they certainly don’t want to see them disappear, but they are also extremely poor and can only just live off the land. The money from the monitor lizards helps them with anything else that they need.”

Although blue tree monitors are the most encountered Varanids on Batanta, there are several other species local to the area that is frequently seen in the pet trade. Peach-throat monitors (V. jobiensis), mangrove monitors (V. indicus), blue-tailed monitors (V. doreanus) and the occasional crocodile monitor (V. salvadorii) are also collected from the island. Without scientific research assessing the impact of exports, some of these animals may be more threatened than others and sadly, harvesting animals from remote locations may be to the detriment of the ecosystem or the individual species occupying it. Some species are also targeted more than others.

Chris adds: “I also spotted an emerald tree skink (Lamprolepis smaragdina). The collectors didn’t know much about them, which surprised me. They had never collected them and never really looked for them even though they are quite popular in the pet trade and make a good captive. They’re also absolutely petrified of snakes out there. They have green tree pythons (Morelia viridis) all

Chris, with hunters Edward and Petrus ©Chris Applin

over that range and they’re just not interested in collecting them. We found a Candoia boa (Candoia carinata), and no-one would touch it. The hunters just went white with fear. They have small-eyed snakes (Micropechis ikaheca) over there that are super venomous, so I think they treat every snake like it’s ikaheca. Which is probably sensible.”

Macraei behaviours in the wild

Chris has been keeping Varanids for 20 years and tree monitors for 15. Over that time, he has successfully bred V. prasinus, V. beccarii and is thought to be the first person in the UK to successfully breed V. reisengeri. His trip to Batanta will therefore be used to inform his husbandry practices for other tree monitors while also sharing important information with fellow keepers and breeders. He found that the lizards were most active between the hours of 8am and 3pm. They emerge in the morning from their taller roosting trees and descend to the smaller

trees to bask and hunt for insects. “If there has been a rainstorm in the afternoon and it suddenly gets sunny again, the monitors will stay out later,” explains Chris. “They are most active after rain, especially if it rains the night before or in the early morning. I think this probably forces them to come out and seek the sun to bask. By contrast, salvadorii are only active when it’s been extremely sunny all day. If it’s rained, they rarely find them.”

“The locals in Batanta believe the tree monitors only eat locusts and katydids. No frogs or rodents or chicks or anything. They’ve had them regurgitate and it’s always just been insects. There are loads of land crabs all over Batanta so I can’t see that if a lizard could get hold of a crab, they wouldn’t eat it, but the hunters say it’s only ever insects that they hunt in the canopies. The lizards leave their resting places on larger trees to hunt on smaller trees that have lots of sunlight where the insects are gathering and they just pick them off up there.”

Varanus macraei in-situ ©Chris Applin

He also took some UVI readings whilst there. The trip was in November, just outside of the rainy season and therefore it is problematic to use one week’s worth of data to guide best husbandry practices. However, the information that he did gather only reinforced existing literature on the topic.

Chris continues: “They’re getting as low as zero under the canopy but up to six where they’re hunting. Average readings were between two and three which is pretty much what keepers are providing them anyway. I was keeping my tree monitors a lot drier than they would be in the wild. Since visiting Batanta and experiencing +85% humidity every day, I’ve turned all the misting systems back on. It rained every single day we were there and we were there in the dry season. The average ambient temperature during the day was 28°C, dropping to 25°C at night. The highest daytime temperature was 32°C.”

“I’ve had my tree monitors breeding for four years now so I’m a little apprehensive to change things too much. However, I am now trying to implement live plants although this is proving difficult with monitor lizards due to their larger size. I wasn’t using leaf litter before but while trekking through the forest in Batanta, I noticed there are lots and lots of layers of leaf litter. Adding this has provided some great enrichment for my monitors who love hunting for insects hiding within.”

Ethics of harvesting wild animals

Removing animals from the wild to be placed into captivity can warrant highly emotional responses. Across the world, perspectives on wild-caught animals in the pet trade differ just as much as they do between societal groups and this can create polarised opinions on the matter. There is evidence to suggest that collecting wild animals gradually depletes populations, but there is also evidence to suggest that sustainable commerce protects wild populations over time. Some believe that removing an animal from the wild is inherently wrong while others believe that the successful reproduction of that animal

in captivity will secure future generations of the species. Different opinions help encourage interesting debates and neither perspective should be considered entirely true nor false as conservation is a very complicated field. Indeed, many (if not most) herpetologists fighting to protect wild reptiles and amphibians maintain or have maintained animals in captivity before.

One thing that is certain is that humans are changing the face of the planet forever. According to Our World in Data, Indonesia loses over 500,000ha of rainforest each year. It is the second most deforested country in the world, trumped only by the enormous landmass of Brazil. In just one year, Indonesia could, theoretically, lose the entire distribution area of the blue tree monitor 11X over. While the ideal scenario is to simply “protect” wild places, this is often unmanageable and simply does not satisfy the capitalist agenda that most people on planet Earth live by. Instead, sustainability within commerce is necessary to incentivise the protection of wild spaces.

While eco-tourism is beginning to protect some areas of Indonesia, herpetology tours are typically in less demand than birding or scuba-diving excursions. This means that tourists visiting remote locations often have the opportunity to work with extremely knowledgeable herpetologists and local guides. Chris concludes: “Nurdin is the most instrumental guy over there. The trip would not have gone smoothly without him and he doesn’t seem to be mentioned enough. He guided the trip that led to the description of Varanus colei and was probably the first person to see macraei outside of the villages in Batanta. Of course, our hunters Edward and Petrus and boat captains Alwi and Alfajri were also instrumental in such a successful trip. I am keen to encourage more people to visit Batanta. The people of Raja Ampat and Batanta in particular are extremely friendly and welcoming and people can learn a great deal about the incredible animals that live there.”

Readers can find out more about Chris' future trips and UK breeding projects by visiting www.rarereptile.co.uk or following him on instagram @rarereptiles.

Are your tadpoles bloated – maybe with pink or yellow discolouration around the abdomen?

the Tadpole Doctor

Disease in your captive tadpoles?

Have you seen any disease, noticed unusual symptoms, or had unexpected deaths in your tadpoles?

Are your tadpoles bloated – maybe with pink or yellow discolouration around the abdomen?

Have you observed any change in their behaviour, such as: sudden and erratic movements, swimming in circles, loss of equilibrium, sluggishness, floating at the surface or death?

Have you observed any change in their behaviour, such as: sudden and erratic movements, swimming in circles, loss of equilibrium, sluggishness, floating at the surface or death?

Researchers at the University of Oxford need your help. They are trying to track the spread of a newly identified disease of tadpoles. If you suspect that your tadpoles are showing signs of the disease symptoms mentioned above, please make contact at http://tadpole-doctor.co.uk.

Researchers at the University of Oxford need your help. They are trying to track the spread of a newly identified disease of tadpoles.

If you suspect that your tadpoles are showing signs of the disease symptoms mentioned above, please make contact at http://tadpole-doctor.co.uk

http://tadpole-doctor.co.uk

WHITE’S TREE FROGS: A VET’S PERSPECTIVE

An introduction to husbandry and commonly occurring health problems.

By Dr Michaela Betts

Captive frog and toad species are increasingly popular in the pet trade, while also being important from an ecological perspective. Of the estimated 100,000 pet frogs and toads in the UK in 2018, the White’s tree frog (Litoria caerulea) was one of the most-commonly kept species. Dr Michaela Betts, an exotic animal veterinarian working in Suffolk, has seen this reflected in clinical practice with the White’s tree frog being the most common frog species presented.

Litoria caerulea

The White’s tree frog, also known as the “dumpy tree frog” is an Australasian tree frog indigenous to Indonesia and Australia. They are a nocturnal, arboreal species with a wide variation in colouration, from rusty brown, to green, to blue-tinged. They are medium-large with adults typically measuring between 50-110mm in length.

Housing

In the wild, White’s tree frogs thrive in a variety of habitats but are more commonly found in humid coastal regions and require an environment with appropriate heat, humidity, and ultraviolet (UV) lighting. They do well in set-ups constructed from non-abrasive materials that do

not leach chemicals, like glass vivariums, with one to three frogs being able to thrive in a 45x45x60 enclosure.

This species should have a daytime temperature gradient of 24-29°C with a 35°C basking spot, reducing to 18-21°C overnight. This can be achieved with a thermostatically controlled heat mat on the side of the vivarium, a small basking bulb, ceramic heat emitter or a combination of these. However, any ceramic heat emitter needs to be kept far enough away from the highest basking spot to prevent thermal burns or inadequate humidity. Temperatures should be measured at both the hot and cool ends of the set-up using a minimum/maximum thermometer to ensure there are no unknown fluctuations throughout the day and night. It is recommended to have

White’s Tree Frogs: A Vet’s Perspective

a slightly lower humidity and daylight temperature during the winter months.

Humidity should be maintained between 60-70%, with daily misting and constant access to a sizeable but shallow water dish. A hygrometer is essential to ensure relative humidity is always maintained. Water should be changed daily. It is recommended to either use spring water, or chlorinated water that has been aerated in an open container for 24-48 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate.

Ultraviolet lighting is important to provide a regular photoperiod and enable efficient vitamin D3 production. A low percentage UV light for a 10-12 hour photoperiod is advised. Keepers with a means of measuring UV index

should be aiming for a range of 0.7-1.6 for this species. Additionally, UV bulbs need to be replaced roughly every 6-12 months as the UV-B emitted reduces over time.

Opaque refugia must be included in the enclosure to provide hiding spots and visual security. White’s tree frogs benefit from a perching spot at least the diameter of their body such as a clay pot or tree limb.

Housing challenges

Maintaining a high enough humidity alongside good provision of UV-B can be difficult. Equally, ensuring that substrate remains damp but does not become waterlogged can be a challenge.

If the substrate becomes sodden, a build-up of ammonia often develops which can lead to health issues that require veterinary attention. Keepers can use a false bottom made of expanded clay balls or koi fitter crate with a layer of fly screen to separate the water layer and the substrate. A mixed substrate that utilises soil, bark chips, coir and moss is often preferred, with a final layer of leaf litter on top such as oak or beech.

Diet

White’s tree frogs are insectivores and, for optimal nutrition, should be fed a variety of appropriately sized gut-loaded invertebrates - primarily insects. Commonly fed insects are locusts, crickets, dubia roaches and the occasional waxworm treat. As an arboreal species, insects that attach to vegetation or furnishings at the level of the frog are preferable. Food items should be dusted with a calcium and multivitamin supplement, usually once weekly for adults and twice weekly for juveniles. Similarly, juveniles should be fed daily while adults can be fed two to three times a week. It is best to feed during peak activity levels, in the evening, to ensure that food is eaten whilst the supplement coating is still on.

Nutritional disease

Obesity is common with this species. It is often associated with a cloudy appearance to the eyes as the excessive dietary fat results in a lipid keratopathy, along with an enlarged appearance to the coelom due to fat deposition. In White’s tree frogs specifically, obese individuals may also deposit fat in the crests over their eyes which can further impede vision if they become large enough. As with other species, increasing activity levels and reducing their food is the recommended course of action. Unfortunately, there is currently no specific treatment for the ocular changes, so it’s advised to limit calorific intake to prevent progression of the lesions. Analgesia may be added if the condition seems to be causing discomfort.

Metabolic bone disease is another common condition, often due to nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism. This typically affects juvenile frogs and is associated with inadequate UV-B provision, inadequate oral calcium supplementation, low dietary calcium/phosphorus ratio, inappropriate heating or a combination of these factors. Inappropriately high phosphorus or fluoride levels in the water has also been associated with the condition. Review of the diet, water source, UV-B lighting and heating should

therefore be carried out if a diagnosis is suspected or confirmed by x-ray imaging. Severe cases often require analgesia, as well as additional calcium supplementation and repeat x-rays at regular intervals to assess for improving bone density. Obvious clinical signs include skeletal deformities or fractures. Although less-specific symptoms are general weakness, accumulation of gas in the gastrointestinal tract and a bloated appearance, cloacal prolapse, and death.

Handling

Clean, powder-free gloves, moistened with dechlorinated water should be used for handling any anuran, but handling should be kept to a minimum. Direct contact with human skin should be avoided due to the semipermeable nature of amphibian skin. Because of the comparatively

more tolerant nature of this species, White’s tree frogs are likely to be handled more often in the home environment than other anurans. Unfortunately, this brings with it the risk of contaminants such as chemicals or bacteria plus stress – which can cause immunosuppression and may lead to the development of secondary disease processes.

Quarantine

Appropriate quarantine measures for any newly acquired amphibian are vital for preventing the introduction of disease into a collection. Whilst captive-bred in large numbers, wildcaught White’s tree frogs can still be found in the pet trade. The amphibian pet trade itself has been implicated in the spread of infectious diseases, most notably Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis and ranaviruses.

Therefore, adequate research of the source of your frog and the implementation of appropriate quarantine procedures are of particular importance.

One size does not fit all. The length of a quarantine period and choices around infectious disease screening of your new tree frog will vary depending on the source and history of the individual or group. Ideally, a quarantine set-up should be kept in a dedicated area away from other amphibians with footwear and protective clothing for that location only. Dedicated tools and equipment, handwashing and new gloves should be kept for quarantine populations. Plus tools and equipment used between different quarantine enclosures should be thoroughly disinfected. Paper towel substrate can suffice for this species and allows observation of faeces and ease of

cleaning in quarantine. However, care must be taken to maintain adequate humidity.

High-risk animals are those from an unknown source or with poor biosecurity measures, as well as animals with an unknown health history or that appear unwell. Sharing a single room or water system with unwell amphibians or being with species from different geographical locations or sources can also put animals at high risk. Conversely, lower risk animals are those from a source with good biosecurity practices, who have a complete health history and have been kept in a single species facility or are from a population at a mixed species facility which had been isolated long-term before acquisition.

Regardless of risk level, it is recommended to test any new frog for Batrachochytrium due to the significance of the disease and its implications for both the collection and the individual frog. While it is recommended to test for this at least once in low-risk animals, higher risk animals should ideally be tested two or three times over their quarantine period. Faecal examination at the start and end of a quarantine period is also recommended to ensure appropriate identification and treatment of any parasites.

The recommended quarantine length varies depending on the risk. A minimum of 30 days should be adhered to, though 60-90 days is more appropriate for high-risk animals, and 90 days should be the minimum if wild-caught. However, if there are unexplained deaths, a significant pathogen is identified, new animals enter their quarantine area, or there are health problems or treatments in a quarantined population, then the period should be extended.

Fungal disease

The most significant fungal pathogen of anurans is the causative agent of chytridiomycosis, Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis. Chytrid fungi are ubiquitous in moist and aquatic environments and chytridiomycosis is transmitted by direct contact with infected individuals, contaminated water or through human or mechanical vectors. Larval anurans are typically subclinically infected, with the infection occurring in the mouthparts. However, in postmetamorphic anurans, infection occurs in the keratinising stratified squamous epithelium of the skin and has a very high mortality rate. Clinical signs include lethargy, oedematous swelling, abnormal posture and loss of the ability to right itself, abnormal behaviour such as a loss of flight or fight response when handled, dehydration, dysecdysis and hyperaemia of the skin. The infection disrupts the affected skin’s ability to transport electrolytes across it, so sadly these individuals pass away from electrolyte depletion. This change to the skin can also lead to secondary bacterial infections and so should always be considered as a potential underlying cause of ‘red-leg’.

Diagnosis can either be made by histopathology at postmortem or by polymerase chain reaction (PCR) testing from skin swab samples of the inner thighs, underside of hindlimb digits and webbing, plus drink patch in live frogs.

Various treatments have been reported for chytridiomycosis and there is no single protocol suitable for all species and life stages. Medical bathing for 11 consecutive days seems to be the favoured treatment method for this species at present.

As the organism can persist for a long time in moist environments, affected animals should be kept in a clean, sparse, disinfected and easily cleaned enclosure. The permanent enclosure should be deep cleaned and disinfected prior to the return of successfully treated individuals. Strict biosecurity measures also need to be followed during this period to reduce the risk of spreading the infection. The effectiveness of any treatment should be monitored with posttreatment repeat PCR testing, with the current recommendation being three PCR tests over a 14-day posttreatment period.

Bacterial disease

Many bacteria make up the normal flora of the skin but can become pathogenic if there is trauma or immunosuppression from inappropriate husbandry, viral infection or fungal infection. Common potentially pathogenic bacteria include Aeromonas, Pseudomonas, Escherichia coli, Mycobacterium spp., and Chlamydophila

The classic appearance of a frog suffering from a bacterial dermatosepticaemia is ventral erythema and petechial haemorrhage which gives the colloquial ‘red-leg’ syndrome its name, often alongside ulceration, erosion, sloughing and necrosis of the skin. However, there are many other clinical signs associated with bacterial infections that are more non-specific, like anorexia, lethargy, abnormal gait, and coelomic effusion. White’s tree frogs can also develop a cloudy appearance to their eyes due to corneal oedema secondary to bacterial infection.

Investigations should include skin swabs for culture and sensitivity and impression smear, skin scrapes for cytology and wet mount and possibly swab samples for PCR testing if Mycobacterium is suspected. Mycobacterium is of significance due to its zoonotic potential. Treatment involves parenteral antibiotics, ideally based on culture and sensitivity testing. Depending on underlying causes, treatment of primary infections, correction of water quality or husbandry may also be indicated.

Parasitic disease

A wide variety of parasites have been documented in captive anurans and can be investigated through faecal sampling. Fresh faeces can usually be collected from moist paper towel in a clean container and by target-feeding the individual.

Many metazoan and ciliate protozoa are commensals in anurans, and bacteriology is often of little clinical significance even if there is a pure growth of a single isolate. Therefore, the decision to enact treatment is dependent on the type of organism identified, the parasite load, and on associated clinical signs such as ill thrift, anorexia, diarrhoea or prolapse. In all positive cases, isolation of the affected individual and measures to reduce the risk of re-infection from contaminated material should be pursued.

Potentially pathogenic protozoa include Entamoeba ranarum, Microsporidium spp., Chloromyxum spp., Myxidium immersum, Eimeria, Isospora, and Myxobolus hylae. Whilst some of these primarily affect the

gastrointestinal tract, others can have impacts on other organs or the striated muscles.

Nematodes, cestodes and trematodes can also be found in anurans, with the latter typically existing in larval stages. With these, the clinical signs are usually minimal. However, larvae can sometimes encyst within the dermis, causing large focal pathology that will require surgical intervention by a veterinarian to remove the worm(s). A notable nematode of this species is the lungworm Rhabdias, which can cause respiratory symptoms. The larvae or embryonated ova of this parasite can be found on faecal examination and sometimes by microscopy of an oral smear.

What next?

Research into appropriate husbandry and the identification and treatment of disease processes in amphibians is still a growing area. Even among exotic veterinarians, amphibians will typically only make up a small percentage of animals presented. Although there is still much to learn, there is a growing understanding of how to appropriately house and treat these species at home and in clinical practice. Appropriate quarantine and husbandry with prompt identification, isolation, and treatment of diseased individuals are key factors in maintaining a healthy collection.

About the author: Michaela Betts is an exotic animal veterinarian who graduated from the Royal Veterinary College in 2018. Alongside her clinical work, Michaela is an educational speaker for Just Exotics, providing further education to veterinary professionals on exotic animal species, and is involved with the British Veterinary Zoological Society and Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians. She is currently completing her RCVS Certificate of Advanced Practitioner in Zoological Medicine.

KEEPER BASICS: SPRING POND MAINTENANCE

By Dr Dave Pool

Once set up, there is relatively little maintenance required to maintain a pond’s condition and the health of the fish and plants within it. The maintenance tasks that are needed are largely dependent on the season of the year and in particular the water temperature. This will vary depending on where you live. However, the activities of the fish and plants give a useful guide to when feeding should begin, filters are turned down, heaters turned on and much more.

Feeding

During the spring, the days will begin to lengthen and the water temperature in your pond will start to rise. At water temperatures above 8C, fish will become noticeably more active and will begin searching for food. Initially, just feed them once a day on a few floating food sticks or flakes. Don’t be tempted to feed too much too quickly. The first warm days are usually followed by cold conditions.

In late spring, they will be feeding ravenously to build up their strength after the rigours of winter and to develop reproductive tissues. At this time, they can be fed 1 – 2 times a day, but only on as much food as they will consume in about 5 minutes.

Water circulation and filtration

The pump and filter should be restarted 1 – 2 weeks before you start regularly feeding your fish. Gradually increase the amount of food that you give to ensure that the filter bacteria can increase sufficiently to cope with the resultant increases in waste.

As temperatures increase, the pump can be positioned in the deepest part of the pond. Pumps that have been running throughout the winter can be turned up and lowered to the pond bottom.

Waterfalls and fountains can be switched on in mid to late spring when water temperatures are consistently above 8C.

Disease

When the fish awaken from their ‘semi-hibernation’ they will be very weak and susceptible to infection by parasites. Watch out for signs of fungus, gasping, scratching against underwater objects or a grey slimy coating to the skin. You may also notice one or more fish being very lethargic, keeping away from the other fish or remaining still on the bottom or near the water surface (sometimes close to the filter or waterfall inflow).

Treating the pond with a general external parasite remedy is advisable, although the worst affected individuals should be removed to a separate treatment container. Some pond keepers add a preventative treatment to their ponds in April to kill any parasites before they adversely affect their fish.

Algae problems

Algae growth, either in the form of blanket weed or green water, can be a problem in the spring before the plants become established. Algae can respond very quickly to warmer and brighter conditions in spring and will start to multiply rapidly. Later in the spring, the water plants will grow more rapidly and outcompete the algae for nutrients and start to shade the water, resulting in the algae growth reducing and the water clearing.

Control can be achieved by using an appropriate algae treatment to reduce the number of algae in the pond. Then, encourage fast-growing plant growth by removing nutrient-rich sediment to prevent it from coming back. UV units are also a great way to keep the pond water clear and should be switched on in early spring.

Keeper Basics: Spring Pond Maintenance

New plants

The spring is an ideal time to introduce new plants into your pond. The safest and most convenient way to plant your pond is by using the plastic baskets available from most stores. These come in a range of convenient sizes and permit the easy re-arrangement of the plants at a later date. The baskets are best filled with good quality nutrient poor soil or a special pond planting media. Large gravel should be added to the top of the basket to prevent the fish disturbing the soil and clouding the water.

Introducing fish

The spring is a good time to add new fish to your pond. Always select healthy, active individuals that show no sign of disease. Avoid those with fins that are folded against their bodies, with obvious parasites and individuals that are sulking on the bottom of the container or gasping at the water's surface. You shouldn’t purchase any fish from containers in which other unhealthy or dead fish are present as they may also be diseased.

Don’t buy too many fish at one time. It is better to gradually increase your fish population over several weeks to allow the filter to build up its bacteria load and be able to break down the extra fish waste that will be produced.

When you get the fish home, float the bag containing the fish in the pond for 10 – 15 minutes to ensure the water temperature in the bag and pond are the same. Then, gently release the fish into the pond

Spring clean your pond

Although the water will still be on the cold side, it is often best to do any cleaning in early spring, before the frogspawn has hatched, as this prevents you from accidentally removing lots of tadpoles from the pond.

Carefully look through any debris that you remove for signs of life. Dragonfly and damselfly nymphs, newts, snails and any other pond life can be accidentally discarded when cleaning. If you are adding tap water to the pond, use a conditioner to remove any chlorine, which could otherwise harm pond life.

Tree blossom

If you have fruit trees in the vicinity of the pond, the blossom may be a problem in spring. Remove any blossom that falls into the pond before it sinks. If there are many fruit trees you may need to put a net over your pond for two weeks while the problem is at its worst.

FASCINATING FACT

Fish Facts: Part One

The world’s smallest fish is the tiny cyprinid fish Paedocypris progenetica from forest swamps in Indonesia. Mature females measure only 7.9mm. The fish has a translucent body and the head is unprotected by any bony skeleton.

Fish have an inbuilt sonar system which allows them to navigate in dark or in cloudy waters. The fish can pick up pressure waves using cells in the lateral line that runs along the side of the body from the head to the tail. This allows them to locate prey that is moving. While swimming the fish also produce pressure

waves which bounce off underwater objects and are picked up by the lateral line – giving the fish a sonar picture of its surroundings.

The scales of a fish can tell you a lot about its history. The scales are formed in rings, which are closer together if the fish is growing slowly, and wider apart if the fish is growing quickly. For example, if the fish is in a seasonal environment such as a lake or river in the UK, several rings will be close together during the winter and, by counting the bands of closely spaced rings, you can tell the age of the fish.

TIPS AND TRICKS

Tortoises in spring - Advice from Eleanor Tirtasana-Chubb

Feeding variety

Pushing varied meals and offering fewer favourite choices is vital when weeds and flowers are scarce. Shops should be recommending the slow introduction of dried flowers and high-fibre pellets with safe, fresh feeds. Romaine, baby gem, lambs’ lettuce and rocket are the better lettuce options. Tip – green salad mix can work well for someone with a small collection to feed. Always avoid mixes including, spinach, cabbage and beetroot leaves as they are high in oxalates and will prevent the absorption of calcium and increase the risk of bladder stones.

Seed mixes

Keepers should begin sowing seeds for edible browse. The soil can be sowed with calcium powder or granules to help plants grow calcium rich. Forage should be grown in raised beds away from enclosures and cut and fed throughout the year.

Offering Reptoboost

Vetark’s widely celebrated Reptoboost can be used as a pick-me-up tonic to add to bath waters post hibernation. Reptoboost can help a tortoise resume normal behaviour post-hibernation. But, it is important to avoid prolonged use to prevent sugar overload.

Vitamin supplement

Increased use of a quality multivitamin including D3 is an absolute. Many keepers still use supplements too infrequently. Keepers should use smaller pots as the vitamins can degrade and lose potency quite quickly once opened. Reluctant supplement eaters can be fed vitamins sandwiched into a watery treat such as cucumber slices. Tortoises will take vitamins and healthy plant options if gradually mixed with regular feed items.

Outdoors or under a lamp

Combine the use of a basking lamp in bad weather with full days of natural sunshine from June to September. At the start of the year, time outdoors may be limited to just a few hours, but it will pave the way for a more acclimatised tortoise in summer.

Saving funds

Keepers should invest in a secure outdoor space for sunny days. It is the best way to meet the tortoise’s UVB needs and it will save on the electricity bill! For artificial lighting, try T5 UVB strips and white basking lamps. This offers better overall lighting for an enclosure and the low

Eleanor Tirtasana: has been involved with tortoise husbandry and healthcare for over 20 years. She offers consultation services to many practices as well as lectures internationally. Eleanor is the founder of Tortoise Welfare UK and actively runs Chelonian education, as well as lecturing and consulting internationally.

wattage when compared to a combi-lamp is something to consider with rising electricity prices.

Seasonal changes in lighting

Whatever the method of heating and lighting, sudden changes in temperature and day length should be avoided. Changes should be approached gradually, when possible, to prevent stress. An elderly tortoise who has never had a basking lamp may initially benefit from as little as 4 to 8 hours of basking time in spring.

Night temperatures

In the wild, the commonly-kept species of Mediterranean tortoises would likely experience nighttime temperatures below a comfortable “room temperature.” Keepers can be encouraged to economise by conditioning a tortoise gradually to have no supplementary heating overnight. This is obviously only appropriate if the ambient house temperature is not dropping below 15°C. If the temperature does drop below this point, Lower and the tortoise may accidentally slip into hibernation behaviour.

Bath time

A 10-to-20-minute soak in lukewarm water is a free way to help counteract the dehydration risks of artificial lighting. This also helps keep the liver and kidneys healthy. The warmth of the water will benefit the tortoise’s activity.

and

The perfect pair.

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