Exotics Keeper Magazine March 2024

NEWS • FROG BACKPACK • KEEPER BASICS • FILE-EARED FROG • EXPLORING CORYDORAS www.exoticskeeper.com • march 2024 • £3.99

KEEPING AND BREEDING CRESTED CHAMELEONS Jurgen Van Overbeke discusses breeding this unique species.

GET TO KNOW-A YOUR BOA

We caught up with keen hobbyist Ben Bailey to discuss captive care and breeding of the Amazon tree boa (Corallus hortulana).

KEEPING SHELL-THY

Dr Michaela Betts helps us identify common clinical signs and differential causes for disease in aquatic turtles.

A STEPPE AHEAD

One of the most ideal candidates for both the beginner and experienced keeper alike the often overlooked Dione’s, or Steppes, rat snake.

CONTACT US EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES

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About us MAGAZINE PUBLISHED BY Peregrine Livefoods Ltd Rolls Farm Barns Hastingwood Road Essex CM5 0EN Print ISSN: 2634-4711 Digital ISSN: 2634-4689

EDITORIAL: Thomas Marriott DESIGN: Scott Giarnese Amy Mather .........................

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Every effort is made to ensure the material published in EK Magazine is reliable and accurate. However, the publisher can accept no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers, manufacturers or contributors.

Readers are advised to check any claims themselves before acting on this advice. Copyright belongs to the publishers and no part of the magazine can be reproduced without written permission.

Front cover: Crested chameleon (Trioceros cristatus) reptiles4all/Shutterstock.com Right: Amazon tree boa (Corallus hortulana) Eric Isselee/Shutterstock.com

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ll being well, we should be in New Caledonia as you read this. We have released some information about this expedition in the last few weeks, but now we’re ready to talk about it!

The crested gecko is one of the most popular pet reptiles in the UK, US & Europe. They attract the attention of first-time keepers and expert breeders alike and yet, few people know how they live in the wild. As a species that was thought extinct for over 60 years, most information on their natural behaviours and habitat is restricted to academia and a handful of books that are several decades old. We hope to change that by visiting their natural habitat, finding animals and publishing our observations on social media, to a new generation of keepers. We hope to answer your questions, conduct live Q&A and ultimately open up the conversation around crested gecko husbandry beyond the terrarium. If you are a crestie keeper or just an inquisitive reptile enthusiast, now is your chance to ask us anything in the comments section on FB and IG. As always, our content this month aims to celebrate herpetoculture and explore lesser-known species.

Who better to help us do that than snake specialist, Francis Cosquieri?

He will be producing several articles deep-diving into various

lesser-known snake species over the coming issues. I’d also like to thank Ben Bailey for his article on Amazon tree boas and chameleon specialist, Jurgen Van Overbeke for sharing his experience with crested chameleons. Finally, Dr Michaela Betts is back with another fascinating piece from the veterinary world; this time looking at Chelonia issues. We hope you enjoy this issue!

Thank you, Thomas Marriott Editor

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EXOTICS NEWS

The latest from the world of exotic pet keeping.

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GET TO KNOW-A YOUR BOA

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Captive care and breeding of the Amazon tree boa.

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FLASHBACK FEATURE: EXPLORING CORYDORAS

The care and keeping of Corydoradinae.

Captive Care

KEEPING AND BREEDING CRESTED CHAMELEONS

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KEEPING SHELL-THY

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SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

Focus on the wonderful world of exotic pets. This month it’s the File-eared frog (Polypedates otilophus).

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DIONE’S RAT SNAKE The Natural History and

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J urgen Van Overbeke discusses breeding this unique species.

Clinical Signs of Aquatic Chelonia.

KEEPER BASICS:

Acquiring Animals Responsibly.

FASCINATING FACT Did you know...?

Exotics News

EXOTICS NEWS The latest from the world of exotic animals

The statement lists deleterious gene animals as the following, asking its members not to breed, purchase or sell any morphs:

landscapes, and a new study has examined how they transport plant seeds to other locations where they are able to grow.

• Spider Royal Python (Python regius)

Their role in seed dispersal may vastly outsize its diminutive form, offering a possible means of plant survival during drought periods in the incredibly dry Karoo region. This would have a major impact on the entire landscape.

• Jaguar Carpet Python (Morelia spilota ssp) • Super Motley Boa (Boa imperator)

Sanne Romijn Fotografie/ Shutterstock.com

• Enigma Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius)

REPTA announces Deleterious Genes Policy

The Reptile and Exotic Pet Trade Association (REPTA) has released its new Deleterious Genes Policy, setting out its position on the breeding of individual animals with unusual features to create ‘morphs’.

REPTA gives negative consequences of the proliferation of certain morphs as the reason for its newly defined stance, stating that reproducing certain genes can result in poor quality of life for the animals bred.

• Lemonfrost Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius) • Silk Back Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps) REPTA adds that the list will be continuously reviewed and updated as necessary.

As a result, REPTA has stated that its position is that a number of genes “should no longer be produced or available through reptile specialist pet centres.”

The Karoo dwarf tortoise is one of the world’s smallest of its kind, measuring a maximum of 11 centimetres in length.

They remain largely hidden during the day in rock crevices and are well camouflaged to the habitat, making them difficult for researchers to spot.

When it does emerge, the highly endangered species displays atypical behaviour, spending time walking around in the open. Considering how vulnerable its tiny size makes it to predation, this activity is unusual.

In a statement, REPTA acknowledged that while many morphs are produced with no perceivable negative consequences, there are a number of genes that have proven to be ‘problematic’.

The negative outcomes reportedly perceived in the morphs named by REPTA include head wobbles, inability of individuals to right themselves once unbalanced, kinking, cancerous tumours and truncated lifespans.

By studying the tortoises’ droppings, researchers aim to determine their preferred diet, information that would play a vital role in understanding the dispersal of at least four species of plant in the region.

Tiny tortoise may be a super seed spreader

Researchers are studying the potential role of the Karoo dwarf tortoise (Chersobius boulengeri) in dispersing the seeds of plants in its South African habitat.

The tiny reptiles inhabit semidesert

Ravens and crows are their main predators, with the number of the birds populating the tortoises’ habitat increasing in recent years due to human activity nearby. This threat, combined with the incredibly slow rate of growth of the reptiles which sees them take up to a decade to reach maturity, has presented significant challenges to the survival of the species.

These threats make the ongoing research around their diet and contribution to their surroundings vital to their survival.

What do you call a lizard that tells jokes?

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Exotics News

The research addresses an ongoing mystery regarding the species’ ability to hoard toxins as a defensive measure, without being harmed themselves.

Alkaloid compounds are consumed in high volumes by poison dart frogs, and instead of being broken down, are accumulated in their skin. Scientists now know that they are able to do this due to the presence of a particular protein.

The research team used a similar alkaloid compound as a “molecular fishing hook” to attract the key protein in blood taken from a Diablito poison frog (Oophaga sylvatica). The compound was engineered to glow under a fluorescent light to allow the researchers to see the proteins as they bound to the compound, allowing them to be identified.

Steve Bower/Shutterstock.com

Findings of the study may even assist scientists in creating treatments for humans poisoned by similar toxins. The study suggests that the similarities between the proteins found in the frog samples and those found in humans could allow scientists to attempt to create human proteins that absorb toxins, creating a new treatment for poisonings.

Cannibal tree frog species poses new threat in Georgia Cuban tree frogs have been spotted in the US state of Georgia, potentially reaching havoc on existing wildlife.

The species’ size poses a threat to the ecological balance of the area, allowing it to predate on insects, reptiles and other, smaller frogs. Female Cuban tree frogs are larger than the males, growing up to almost 14cm in length, making them a considerable adversary for most species.

Senior author of the paper, Lauren O’Connell, who is also Assistant Professor in the Department of Biology at Stanford University, said: “Beyond potential medical relevance, we have achieved a molecular understanding of a fundamental part of poison frog biology, which will be important for future work on the biodiversity and evolution of chemical defences in nature.”

The newcomers dwarf the next largest native tree frog in Georgia, the barking tree frog, measuring triple its size.

Small snakes, lizards and the smaller native squirrel tree frog are also potential prey of the Cuban tree frog, giving experts cause for concern about its potential effect on these species and the wider ecosystem.

As they have been observed breeding along the Georgia coast and have been spotted on the border with Florida, the Georgia Department of Natural Resources Wildlife Resources Division (DNR) are taking steps to ensure the species doesn’t decimate smaller existing species.

According to Daniel Sollenberger, senior wildlife biologist at the DNR, steps similar to those taken to eradicate mosquitos are also effective in combatting the invasive amphibians.

©Huang et al

“Remove any standing water from around your property like a pool. If you find individual frogs in your yard, you can capture and euthanize them,” said Sollenberger.

Protein that allows poison dart frogs to retain toxins identified Researchers have finally identified the protein that allows poison dart frogs to safely accumulate and store toxins, in a breakthrough study.

A stand-up chameleon!

MARCH 2024

New iguana species discovered in China and Vietnam

A new species of iguana named Wang’s garden lizard (Calotes wangi), has been identified in southern China and northern Vietnam.

Following surveys undertaken from 2009 to 2022, the reptile, measuring less than 9cm, was described, with its distinctive orange tongue setting it apart from similar species.

Prefer to get a quote than a joke?

Visit britishpetinsurance.co.uk

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Exotics News

Found in subtropical evergreen forests and tropical monsoon forests, Wang’s garden lizard uses its habitat as its defence, remaining active on the edge of the forest and using bushes and trees to hide when threatened.

Visibly protruding from their lower jaw, the fangs of Limnonectes phyllofolia, found in streams in Southeast Asia are used to fight with one another over territory and mates, and are a defining feature of the newly identified species.

The team were able to observe its behaviour over an extended period of time, noting that it is active from April to October, and from at least March to November in the tropics, relying on a diet of insects, spiders and other arthropods.

Around the size of a 10 pence coin, the frogs are far smaller than its similarly-fanged counterparts and were discovered by a team of US and Indonesian researchers.

After spotting eggs laid several feet above ground, rather than in water like most amphibian species, the team soon spotted the small brown frogs.

The outlook for the newly identified reptile is relatively positive, with researchers finding no evidence that the species is threatened, yet some regions of its habitat are fragmented. Other threats to the species exist from humans, with the lizards being consumed as food and used for medicinal purposes.

The research team have recommended that the local government takes early steps to protect the species and its habitat to avoid any significant threat to its survival developing in the coming years.

Jeff Frederick, postdoctoral researcher at the Chicago Field Museum, who was also lead author of the study, said: “Normally when we're looking for frogs, we're scanning the margins of stream banks or wading through streams to spot them directly in the water. After repeatedly monitoring the nests though, the team started to find attending frogs sitting on leaves hugging their little nests."

In another display of unusual behaviour, the frogs guarding the clutches of eggs were male, which is an uncommon practice in amphibians.

The team surmised that, after evolving to lay their eggs outside the water, the species no longer needed to fight to compete for territory to lay and therefore no longer needed such large fangs.

©Sean Reilly

Newly found fanged frogs are world’s smallest, according to new study

A newly described species of frog in Southeast Asia is remarkable, not only for its diminutive size that makes it the smallest yet discovered, but also for its unusual set of ‘fangs’.

Jeff Frederick added: “It's fascinating that on every subsequent expedition to Sulawesi, we're still discovering new and diverse reproductive modes. Our findings also underscore the importance of conserving these very special tropical habitats. Most of the animals that live in places like Sulawesi are quite unique, and habitat destruction is an ever-looming conservation issue for preserving the hyperdiversity of species we find there. Learning about animals like these frogs that are found nowhere else on Earth helps make the case for protecting these valuable ecosystems."

Written by Isabelle Thom

ON THE WEB

Websites | Social media | Published research

Each month we highlight a favourite website or social media page THIS MONTH IT’S: BLUE RIVER DIETS Our Editor, Thomas will be teaming up with Blue River Diets this month to bring you in-situ research on the geckos of New Caledonia. Don’t miss a thing by following the brand on social media. www.facebook.com/blueriverdiets

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GET TO KNOW-A

YOUR BOA

Captive care and breeding of the Amazon tree boa.

tanya.asfir/Shutterstock.com

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Get to Know-a Your Boa

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The Amazon or ‘garden’ tree boa (Corallus hortulana) is a widespread species of arboreal constrictor found throughout tropical South America. Growing to around 6ft in length, these slender boas are adept at climbing narrow branches and occupy a range of habitats from tropical primary forests to human-altered gardens and the outskirts of agricultural areas. Like their cousins, the emerald tree boas (C. caninus & C. batesii) young Amazon tree boas are brightly coloured and striking to behold. Unlike their green compatriots, the Amazon tree boa does not go through a major ontogenetic change as it ages, producing perhaps one of the most variable snake species on Earth. One person who has had the joy of witnessing this development first-hand is Ben Bailey, who has bred Amazon tree boas for several years. We caught up with Ben to discuss his fascination with the species…

About the Author: Ben Bailey is a reptile and amphibian breeder with a particular interest in tropical species. He uses his platform, Rural Reptiles, to share his keeping strategies for Dendrobates tinctorius, Phyllobates teribilis and Corallus hortulana and creates naturalistic and bioactive enclosures for his collection.

Amazon tree boas in the hobby

“One of the main draws to ‘Amazons’ for me was the pure variability of them,” said Ben. “There are many different phases and so much variation in their colouration. From the blacks, browns, silvers and greys of the ‘Halloween’ or ‘Garden’ phases to the reds, yellows and oranges of the ‘Colour’ phases, these animals are extremely diverse. They also all have varying amounts of patterning or even no pattern at all.”

Whilst different populations may see higher densities of a certain ‘morph’, the colours and patterns of Amazon

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tree boas are not strictly dictated by localities. They are, therefore, “polychromatic’. However, there are some locations where particularly stunning animals are abundant, such as the bright red individuals found in southern Suriname, or the almost uniform yellow morphs of southeastern Ecuador. Whilst many hobbyists will dub their animals with a fancy title such as “Red Hot” or “Tiger”, in reality, these are not true morphs and establishing a dedicated breeding project to produce animals of a certain appearance is unlikely to prove successful. Instead, most breeders are simply fascinated by the natural history of the species.

MARCH 2024

Get to Know-a Your Boa

A “Halloween” phase Amazon tree boa is characterized by its orange and black patterning.

Dr Morley Read/Shutterstock.com Ben continued: “The Amazon tree boa was the first species of snake I ever bred. I'm glad they were, as it’s pushed me to appreciate them even more and hopefully I can share with others how amazing this species is and get more people to see the good side of them rather than the reputation they are often tarred with.”

Despite exhibiting many of the favourable traits found in emerald tree boas, as well as being more variable in colouration and more manageable in size, Amazon tree boas are not as frequently kept as one may think. Having previously been imported from the Guiana Shield, these sleight-bodied snakes gained a reputation for being fragile and aggressive.

However, now they are more frequently captive-bred, it appears their reputation may be somewhat unwarranted.

Ben continued: “People say adult Amazon tree boas MARCH 2024

have a ‘bitey’ or aggressive temperament. I find quite the opposite and I know other people who keep a few amazons will generally agree. From the get-go when I got my pair they were very docile and will happily, to this day, let me reach into the enclosure and pick them up or work around them in the enclosure (water changes or cleaning etc.) without batting an eye.”

“Each animal will be different and have different personalities. I do have one Amazon that I got in the last year that precedes its reputation but with time and work, I have no doubt it'll calm down and become more like my main pair. However, the neonate Amazons are defensive as soon as they are born, although this is much the same for all neonate/hatchling snakes as they have so many predators when they are smaller. This defensive nature only aids in getting them on to food, which is always handy!"

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A close-up of a yellow phase Amazon tree boa (C. hortulana) reptiles4all/Shutterstock.com

Husbandry

Amazon tree boas are most frequently found in vegetation and trees around 5 – 15m above the ground, particularly close to streams. They are very three-dimensional in their wild behaviours, adopting a primarily ‘ambush’ hunting technique, although they will sometimes actively scavenge for food. This means they will occasionally visit the forest floor and unlike other members of the genus, will utilise low-lying dense vegetation as shelter during the day.

Interestingly, Ribeiro-Junior et al even recorded a Brazilian specimen basking in the sun at 2 pm and there have been multiple reports of feeding behaviours in the morning. It is, therefore, extremely important that the keeper creates a versatile environment for their Amazon tree boa.

“I keep my adults housed separately in 2 X 2 X 3ft PVC enclosures,” said Ben. “PVC enclosures allow for the snakes’ higher humidity requirements, so I can spray them without worry of damaging them. Inside the enclosure, I use branches of varying widths and sizes that are taken from fallen ash trees off our family farm. These are zigzagged from the bottom to the top of the enclosure utilizing as much area as possible and crossing over at many points. These are the preferred basking/resting areas for the snakes. Unlike emerald tree boas or green tree pythons, Amazon’s prefer multiple branches beneath them, even if they only use one to perch on.”

Ben creates a “naturalistic” aesthetic for his enclosures, by creating hides from cork rounds and using a soil/coconut chip substrate interspersed with real plants. He uses heat panels to create a downward heat gradient from 30℃ at the top, to 23℃ at the bottom. These are tweaked

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slightly during the breeding season. Humidity is always maintained above 60%. The enclosures are heavily sprayed 3 times a week to provide spikes of +80% humidity.

“I am currently using a 7% UVB T5 bulb which lights up the enclosure fairly well and is used by the animals as they will frequently choose to bask under the UV,” said Ben. “The lights are set at the very front of the enclosures so that they don’t always have to be directly under the light, but they can easily get to a branch to utilize it if they wish. At its closest, the UVB is about 25cm from the branch aiming for a UVI of around 0.80 at its maximum.”

Currently, Corallus hortulana is listed as “Least Concern” by the IUCN, due to its enormous range (an expected 207,837km2!), its abundance on a local scale and the fact that it occurs in many protected areas. However, the species is listed under CITES Appendix 2, meaning there are restrictions on its trade. With fewer and fewer imports arriving from South America, the continuation of Amazon tree boas in captive collections requires more captive breeding projects to become established.

The breeding process

Boas are typically viviparous, meaning they give birth to live young. Across the Amazon tree boas' widespread range, different populations will breed at slightly different times of the year. Mating generally coincides with the very end of the wet season, so that the young are born at the start of the following wet season (around 6 months later).

However, breeders working with this species in captivity must plan much further ahead.

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A yellow phase Amazon tree boa (C. hortulana) Pedro Bernardo/Shutterstock.com Ben continued: “As the breeding season approaches, which for me is any time around the end of January, I start to put into action my breeding plans. Of course, you want to make sure you have a pair of animals, that they are of good condition and the right age (generally anything over 3 years old, although I would opt for 4 years old for females, personally).”

feeding and spraying heavier than normal, and the pair is separated on and off for feeding. The male will often go off feed at this point for the remainder of the breeding cycle.”

“Around this time, I will stop feeding and drop temps from the usual 29-30°C highs to 26-27°C highs for around 4-6 weeks. This is not a huge difference in temps and still enough heat to digest any meals within them. The light cycle remains the same (12 hrs on/ 12 hrs off) although I have windows in the reptile room, so this does create a difference of light level in the room itself overall.”

“The locks continue throughout April and into the beginning of May. At this point, I start to see a preovulation swell which is soon followed by an ovulation.

Both times I’ve bred this species now, the ovulation and succession of events after the ovulation have all occurred within a similar timeframe as the previous year. Ovulation is a very noticeable swelling of the lower 3rd of the body and is easily visible. This is followed by a POS (postovulation shed) exactly 17 days later. I always find the female to go off food around this time, so this is another helpful marker of success.”

“After 4-6 weeks (mid-February) I will return the heat to normal and begin feeding slightly more frequently than usual (around once a week) along with more frequent spraying of the enclosure.”

“Alert keepers should notice that this shed is a POS, even if they don’t observe the ovulation. It is this date that I find most important to follow from. The female will not shed again until after giving birth.”

“From the beginning of March, I will begin to pair up the male and female by moving the male into the female's enclosure. For the first couple of weeks, there isn’t normally much happening, but as we get into the beginning of April the locks start to occur and more interest is shown between the pair. At this time, I’m still

“Once the female has had her POS, the male is removed, and his job is done. From this point, I raise the temperature to highs of 32-33°C as it’s now when the female will begin to hog the heat. She does this to incubate her eggs within her body, like most boas. After the POS, I continue feeding but with smaller meals than normal.”

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A selection of Ben’s captive-bred neonate Amazon tree boas ©Ben Bailey “It can take anywhere from 110-160 days after the shed (with an average around 120-130) before she gives birth. In my case, it’s been exactly 126 days each time. Throughout this time, the female will begin to get larger and larger and her scales will very noticeably separate along with her colours getting very dark for the duration of the gestation.”

Rearing neonates

“I find the female stops feeding around a month before giving birth and finally after 4 months of waiting you will get the last sign that she is close. Around 24-72 hours before giving birth she will have a very waxy-looking poo and after not feeding for a while this will be the first poo in weeks so you will know it’s nearly time. After the waxy poo, I will remove the water bowl at night just so there are no hazards if they are born at night.”

In captivity, it is important to house neonates in individual enclosures as quickly as possible. For this, Ben uses 3L Braplast Tubs to prevent any potential escapes or damage.

"My top tip is no matter how small a hole or gap is in the viv either remove the item or close off the gap!” explains Ben. “I used to keep heat cages over the heat panels to stop the adults from getting too close, one morning, one of the neonates had already managed to climb through the tiny holes in this and couldn’t get out. By the time I came into the room, it had perished."

“One day you will be greeted with a smell that you will only know if you’ve had a boa give birth. You walk up to the enclosure and see lots of little angry multicoloured neonate amazons hanging from all the branches and it’s just a sight to behold, there is nothing like it. Such excitement and relief after a long 4-month wait.”

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Litters can range in size from two to 29 neonates. In the wild, the young snakes will quickly disperse as mothers have been reported to eat their young. Luckily, these young snakes are miniature replicas of the adults in all but colour/pattern and will soon become self-sufficient.

Once Ben has moved the newly born boas into their enclosures, he provides them with a small cup of water and paper towels as substrate. Whilst this may not be the most aesthetically pleasing method, it does allow easy MARCH 2024

DID

YOU KNOW Title

The specific epithet "hortulana" comes from the Latin word for ‘Garden’.

The “Garden” phase Amazon tree boa has more drab colouration, but may have striking patterns and ventral colours.

Patrick K. Campbell/Shutterstock.com observation of the animals and their stools, so the keeper can asses their health at a glance.

“Once separated, I add plastic deer fencing (most plastic garden-type fencing works) that is placed from one edge to the other creating a big curve and allowing different heights.

The fencing works brilliantly as the neonate Amazons can sit on many different support points while still being perched. It’s easy to clean if needed and you can take out the piece of fencing with the snake on without disturbing them too much.”

The neonates are kept at the same environmental parameters as the adults.

However, Ben chooses to air on the cooler side if necessary, never exceeding 30℃ within the tubs. “Neonates will shed around 2 weeks after being born and from this point, I will start to offer food. I use defrosted pinkies and I haven't had MARCH 2024

any trouble yet."

“So far, I’ve only had small litters from my Amazons” added Ben. “The first had four healthy young; two were a light orange, one was ‘Garden’ phase and one was a deep red colour. My second litter contained six healthy neonates all of various shades of orange, except one ‘Garden’ phase. Both parents I would say, are orange colour phase with heavy pattern almost 50% orange colour and 50% grey pattern over the top and it seems all the neos will follow suit over time apart from the two garden phases.”

“It seems they have produced more of their own phenotype so far, but I still get the ‘Garden’ phase in smaller quantities.

From my experience with the first litter, the neonates will gain pattern as they age and colours will get more extreme.

They change considerably in their own way over time, this is one of the main reasons why I love this species so much!”

Originally described as Boa hortulana by Linnaeus in 1758, the Amazon tree boa has undergone dozens of taxanomic name changes and was called Corallus hortulanus for 10 years, before the current name was decided in 2019.

The Amazon tree boa occupies a range that spans nine different countries.

In the wild, Amazon tree boas can be easily spotted amongst the forest canopy due to their vibrant eye-shine under torch light.

Despite its vast range, the Amazon tree boa only occupies lowland forest, less than 400m in elevation.

The Amazon tree boa is one of the most variable species of snakes of Earth. Countless locality forms exist and only a fraction of these are recognised, with many more to be discovered.

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Species Spotlight

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT The wonderful world of exotic animals

File-eared frog (Polypedates otilophus) The file-eared frog is a species of arboreal amphibian that is endemic to Borneo. It is a reasonably large tree frog, reaching over 10cm in length. Unsurprisingly, the name “file-eared frog” comes from the species’ sharp ridges behind the frog’s eyes.

This species occurs in Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei in secondary habitats and has therefore been classified as Least Concern by the IUCN. It is also typically found in lowland habitats less than 1,000m in elevation, concentrated around breeding pools.

Although originally imported in large numbers from Indonesia, successful breeding of these “foam-nesting” frogs has resulted in a good amount of year-round

availability of captive-bred animals. Successful husbandry can be achieved by meeting some basic requirements including a temperature in the low 20’s (not exceeding 28℃), humidity above 65%, low-level (Ferguson Zone 1) UV, and a shallow pool of dechlorinated or reverseosmosis water. Using real flora to create a densely planted enclosure will also encourage natural behaviours and help maintain high humidity.

It is almost impossible to sex young file-eared frogs.

Luckily, these animals are fast-growing and reach adult size in just over a year. At this time, the females will be much larger than their male counterparts. Females also typically have broader heads and weigh almost 50% more than males.

aulia ananta/Shutterstock.com

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Title

NutriRep™ is a complete calcium, vitamin & mineral balancing supplement with D3.

It can be dusted onto all food sources including insects, meats & vegetables.

No other supplement is required.

MARCH 20242023 SEPTEMBER

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EXPLORING

CORYDORAS The care and keeping of Corydoradinae.

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Exploring Corydoras

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orydoradinae are an extremely popular family of tropical freshwater fishes from South America. They are reasonably small catfishes that can be recognised even to novice aquarists by their bottom-feeding, schooling behaviours. There is a whole spectrum of species available in captivity, with the bronze Cory (C. aeneus) and peppered Cory (C. paleatus) being the most consistently popular.

Corydoradinae in the UK

Ian Fuller is a hobbyist breeder and one of the leading experts on Corydoradinae in the UK. As well as publishing several books on the identification of each species, he also funds in-situ research through the Corydorasworld platform. “I first kept Corydoras pygmaeus in 1973” explains Ian. “They are an active social species and like all Corydoradinae they are full of character and once kept leave a lasting impression.” Ian has bred 176 different

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species of Corydoras and still breeds nine species alongside other tropical fishes at Eco Tropicals Ltd in the West Midlands. Ian continued: “Corydoradinae is the family name, in which there are currently four genera.

Corydoras, Aspidoras, Scleromystax and Brochis. There are more than 400 different species.” Although Corys have been bred in captivity for decades and some species are frequently stocked by even the largest pet shops, few truly understand the immense diversity of these fishes.

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CORYDORADINAE LINEAGES Title

Lineage 1 – Corydoras that we term as saddle snouted species like C. acutus and C. fulleri.

Lineage 2 – Aspidoras. These are small, torpedoshaped species that inhabit fast-moving streams in Central Brazil. The most abundant within the hobby is probably A. raimundi. They are mostly similarly patterned and can easily be mixed and will easily cross-breed. These are generally not so common in the hobby.

Lineage 3 – Scleromystax. This group of species inhabit the coastal rivers of southeastern and eastern Brazil. The most common and quite popular species in this group is S. barbatus.

Lineage 4 – These are the pygmy Corys which include C. hastatus and C. pygmaeus. The latter is fairly common in the hobby and both species grow to no more than 32 mm in body length. C. hastatus is a little unique in that it prefers to swim in the upper areas of the aquarium. Their natural habitat contains “floating meadows” and the Corys inhabit the areas just below this floating vegetation.

Lineage 5 – This is a group commonly known as the elegans group and there are several that are available in the hobby. C. elegans and C. napoensis are probably the most common. There is generally a noticeable difference in colour and pattern between the sexes.

Lineage 6 – This lineage contains C. paleatus which has been in the hobby for 70 plus years and is frequently available. It was one of the first Cory species to be commercially bred in Asian fish farms.

Commonly known as the ‘Peppered Cory’ it comes from Uruguay and Argentina where it was first discovered by Charles Darwin. It will tolerate cooler temperatures as low as 17º C. Lineage 7 – The most prominent species in this lineage is C. aeneus which is commonly called the bronze Cory. This species was described in the island of Trinidad. It has been in the hobby for as long as C. paleatus and is likely the most widely distributed of all Corydoradinae, with variants coming from just about every major river system in South America. The only South American country not containing Corys is Chile. The green and gold laser Corys also belong to this group.

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Lineage 8 – Lineage 8 contains 4 subclades, the first L8 sc1 is the described genus Brochis containing B. splendens, a deep bodied species having the common name of ‘emerald’ Cory. It is a common and popular species in the hobby. This group is comprised of some of the largest members of Corydoradinae which can reach up to 150 mm in body length.

• Lineage 8 subclade 2 contains just 5 species, all are rare in the hobby and all are considered endangered due to habitat destruction. C. garbei belongs in this clade.

• Lineage

8 sub clade 3 contains just 8 species.

The most common in the hobby is probably C. sodalis, others include C. geryi and C. pantanalensis. Like Brochis, these are chunky, deep-bodied fish with striking mosaic-type body patterns.

• Lineage

8 subclade 4 is the largest of the subclades containing around 100 species.

These are described as ‘straight snouted’ and many are considered mimics of similar looking short, rounded species from lineage 9. C. arcuatus commonly known as the skunk Cory belongs to this group. This group are the most challenging of all to breed.

Lineage 9 – This is the largest of the lineages containing more than 150 species, the most common species in this group are probably C. panda, C sterbai, C. adolfoi and C. trilineatus. Members of this group are considered the easiest to breed, with many that will breed following a normal water change.

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Title

Keeping Corydoras

Corydoras are a relatively simple group of fish to keep.

They are reasonably hardy, and most species will integrate effortlessly into a community tank. However, this is not always the case and new hobbyists should do their research before adding any Cory species to their community tank. Keeping species of the same lineage together does carry the risk of interbreeding, although if species are kept in groups of at least six specimens,

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containing both sexes, the chances are greatly reduced.

This rule would not apply to the genus Aspidoras which are almost all prone to interbreeding.

Providing that the aquarist can maintain good water quality and uses a slow acclimation process, Corys are generally unproblematic. Most Corydoras species will live quite happily in a relatively small aquarium, a single pair of dwarf Corydoras could live in a 45 cm x 25 cm x 45 cm MARCH 2024

Exploring Corydoras

(12' x 8" x 8") tank, but keepers should aim for much larger tanks to give the fish some company. Ideally, this would be around six of the same species and a few tetras or Barbs. If this is the case, a tank of 60 cm x 30 cm x 30 cm (24" x 12" x 12") would be a good size to start with. Most species of Corydoras (apart from those in lineages 1 and 3) should be kept in groups of at least six fish or more and larger varieties of Cordydoras may require more space.

“The biggest mistake many people make is using a course substrate” explains Ian. “Corys are mostly filter feeders.

They take mouthfuls of substrate, filter out any edible particles and eject the unwanted substrate through the base of the gill cover. The only real necessity for all Corys is a fine smooth grained sand substrate. Some argue gravel is ok, but Corys cannot sift it and food particles can and will drift down between the gravel pieces and out of reach, where it will rot and very quickly turn to water conditions bad, increasing nitrate and nitrite. The latter of which can cause serious respiratory problems and a condition I called ‘Red Blotch’ condition, which can kill a Cory very quickly.”

Corys must be kept in clean, well-filtered water however, the parameters are less important providing they do not reach any extremes. For example, most cory species will thrive at temperatures between 22°C and 27°C. This makes them one of the more forgiving species in captivity and an excellent choice for a beginner aquarium. With such varied temperatures throughout the year in the UK, this hardiness will be welcomed by most novice keepers. As such a large family of fishes, grouping all Corydoradinae can lead to sub-par husbandry so all keepers should research the wild conditions that their species encounters to ensure that MARCH 2024

they are perfecting their care and keeping.

Some keepers choose to add botanicals and tannin to their fish tanks to simulate conditions, but Ian explains: “Most Corydoradinae species inhabit open sandy based water courses with very little vegetation, some will have leaf litter, broken branches, exposes roots or even overhanging seasonal vegetation. The decoration is more for the aquarist than a requirement for Corys. The other thing that people seem to believe is that they are intolerant to salt - this is not true. If used as a treatment against fungal infections and other minor ailments, salt is ok. But, if it is added to the main aquaria as a tonic, the levels will build up and effectively alter the water chemistry which will eventually affect their health.”

Feeding

Keepers should aim to provide a varied diet for their Corydoras. As bottom feeders, sinking food must be used to ensure that the fish have a chance at feeding after the surface-feeding tank mates have had their fill. In this case, a dedicated Corydoras tablet food is important to provide full nutrients. Ian continued: “Corydoradinae catfishes naturally feed on small crustaceans, worms, insect larvae etc. So, feeding commercial foods based on insect meal, shrimp and or earthworm would be the best choice. It is also a great idea to mix some live foods in there as well.

Daphnia, tubifex, blood worm (although some species have an allergic reaction to this), white worm, grindal worm, black worm and finely chopped earthworm are all good choices. Daphnia is by far my favourite Cory food but not always readily available.”

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Title

Corydoras trilineatus

Cory species

There are dozens of species of Corys frequently available to hobbyists from a captive-bred supply. The most popular bronze and pepper Corys can be seen in pet shops across the country, but Corydoras sterbai, C. panda and C. adolfoi are all becoming more popular in captivity. There are some disparities in the care requirements of some Corys species, although the basic concepts are very similar. All species require a fine smooth grained sand substrate and will deal with reasonably wide environmental parameters. The aquarium layout can be as varied as the hobbyist’s imagination and providing the keeper takes time to consider the most appropriate tank mates, there are few major differences. Ian continued: “Lineage 1 Corydoras tend to be territorial, and males will define and

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protect their territory and can be quite aggressive even to the point of killing rival males. These are best kept in pairs rather than groups like most of the other lineages. Larger groups can be kept in larger aquaria where there is room to decorate and create distinctive areas with clear space between. Lineage 2 the Aspidoras tend to like fast-moving water, so adding a wave maker or small power head would be a benefit, also adding some large pebbles to deflect the direction of the water flow will provide places for the females to deposit their eggs, but these are also known avid egg eaters, so a watchful eye is needed if the intention is to breed them. Lineage 3 Scleromystax also like faster-moving water, but their water should be soft and of low conductivity. pH 5. To pH 6 is ideal with a conductivity below 100 ppm.”

Breeding Corydoras

Corydoras are reasonably easy to breed in captivity and even novice keepers who maintain a small mixedsex shoal will likely encounter some breeding. Some species, such as those belonging to ‘Lineage 8’, which are characterised by long snouts and contain various sub-clades of Brochis spp. and Corydoras spp. from the Guiana Shield have more complex needs. Because these species encounter a ‘dry season’ they can take up to 6 months to complete a cycle.

Species from lineage 9 are much easier to breed and will often be triggered by a simple water change. Many aquarists attribute this to changes in the water temperature, with higher rainfall lowering temperatures being a major trigger for Amazonian fish. However, it is not that simple. Ian continued: “The MARCH 2024

Title

idea that cooler water changes are the trigger to induce Corys to spawn is not a wise one to follow. It does work for many of the species where their natural water conditions vary annually due to mountain rain and snow melt water runoff, but many regions have seasonal rains which have very little temperature difference, but because of evaporation the chemistry of the water changes and this more likely the major factor along with the surge of new food in the form of insect larvae and other micro-organisms.”

Many thousands of Corys are bred each year in Asia for commercial trade.

This has bolstered various species’ availability in the UK, Europe and the US. However, there are also unnatural varieties which have been produced through forced-hormone techniques MARCH 2024

which exhibit unusually long fins or particularly short-bodied species.

Internationally, ‘dyed’ fish are also very sought after. The process, which is banned in the UK sees fish injected with fluorescent dyes to become more strikingly coloured. Ian believes that the unnaturally forced breeding for mutant varieties should also be banned, however, this is a controversial subject amongst aquarists.

Corydoras conservation

Ian continued: “The biggest danger to these fishes is the destruction of their habitat, be it through gold mining, logging, forest clearing for intensive farming and population expansion.

On my site, Corydorasworld, I set up a breeders register and tried to encourage members to join the project and form a breeding register ultimately to be able to keep as many species as possible breeding and in the hobby, to relieve the pressure and need for wild-caught fish.”

Like much of South America’s fauna, Corydoras are threatened by many environmental factors. Although most species recognised by the IUCN are still considered ‘Least Concern’ the vast majority have had little to no official conservation assessments and thus could be facing unimaginable perils.

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Title

KEEPING AND BREEDING

CRESTED CHAMELEONS

By Jurgen Van Overbeke 24

MARCH 2024

Title

Male crested chameleon (T. cristatus) reptiles4all/Shutterstock.com

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Keeping and Breeding Crested Chameleons

T

he crested chameleon (Trioceros cristatus) is a visually striking lizard from Central Africa. They are considered “Least Concern” by the IUCN and inhabit a large distribution across Nigeria, Cameroon, Congo and Gabon. Unlike many of the more popular chameleon species found in captive collections, the crested chameleon inhabits dense rainforest canopies with high humidity. Their specialist requirements make them reasonably scarce in captivity. The following article discusses the work of Jurgen Van Overbeke, a Belgian chameleon specialist and his process in breeding this unique species…

About the Author: Jurgen Van Overbeke is a chameleon enthusiast who has kept and bred over 35 different species of chameleon.

He specialises in working with the more unique diversity found on the African continent. For more information on the propagation of rare and unusual species, visit the Responsible Herpetoculture Foundation who kindly donated this article.

Introduction

I have successfully kept and bred various chameleon species for over 30 years now. Over that time, T. cristatus has been one of my favourite Trioceros species and certainly one of the most spectacular in appearance.

Their basic colours are the same for both sexes, which include rich browns, olive, green and grey to black with some scattered individual blue scales situated on the head crests. Body colouration is typically uniform, sometimes with irregular, vague, reticulated patterns. The interstitial skin of the throat is bright red.

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Although colouration between the sexes is similar, crested chameleons exhibit sexual dimorphism where the dorsal sailfin, casque and tail will be less developed in females in comparison to the males. Males also have a fanlike and slightly undulating sail-fin up to 3cm high along the back. Additionally, male T. cristatus will have well-defined hemipenal bulges (broad tail base) which provide the most reliable method to determine gender. Female T. cristatus are slightly larger than the males, reaching lengths of up to 28,5 cm (11.22 in), while the males reach only 26,0 cm (10.23 in). The head of both sexes is flat to MARCH 2024

Keeping and Breeding Crested Chameleons

Female crested chameleon (T. cristatus) reptiles4all/Shutterstock.com concave and projects into a high, sharp casque. Tails are shorter than the head and body length (Necas, 2004).

Husbandry

I have worked with this species for over 15 years now and bred them over multiple generations. Acquiring my founder animals was not easy, as this species has always been rarely imported and offered to herpetoculturists.

Consequently, captive-bred specimens are even harder to find. Now, I frequently breed the species to support captive populations across Europe.

Crested chameleons are a lowland species, so cooling down at night is not necessary as it is with other species inhabiting higher elevations of mountainous regions. I

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My animals are individually housed in large screen vertical enclosures 60x60x120cm (23.62x23.62x47.24in) high, very densely planted, primarily with weeping figs (Ficus benjamina).

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keep them at room temperature (+23°C (73.4 F) during the day and + 20°C (68.0 F) at night). In addition, I provide an additional basking spot via a 30W lamp and a 5.0 UV tl bulb from Zoomed. Crested chameleons like to hide in the plants, so the more plants that can be added to the terrarium, the better the environment will be for the animals.

Water is very important for this species as they come from the moist rainforests where water is abundant, and

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humidity is very high. I spray my terrariums in the morning and late afternoon, and I installed a dripper (water drip system) in the terrarium to give them access to running water which they can drink from. Additionally, a fogger creates a dense mist for several hours during the night so they can hydrate very well while resting. T. cristatus are not difficult eaters and most prey items are readily taken.

I offer mostly crickets, locusts, cockroaches and silkworms.

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Sub-adult crested chameleon (T. cristatus) reptiles4all/Shutterstock.com All insects are gut-loaded with bee pollen, along with several fruits and vegetables. I always prefer to use organic products for these purposes. Insects are also dusted with vitamins and minerals. I mostly use a Calcium/Magnesium supplementation; once a week and Repashy with Vitamin A once a month. During the summer, when temperatures are ideal, I try to house them outdoors for several hours a day so they can benefit from the natural sunlight that they seem to enjoy.

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Breeding

These chameleons can be introduced for breeding at around 12-15 months of age. Males start showing a spectacular courtship display with lots of head movements (bobbing) and exhibit incredible colouration. Gestation time lasts from 2 to 3 months and clutch sizes vary from 8 to 30 eggs, depending on the age of the female.

I use moist vermiculite as my chosen incubation

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Keeping and Breeding Crested Chameleons

medium. The eggs are kept at room temperature from around +20 - +22°C (68.0-71.6 F) during the day to around +20 °C (68.0 F) at night. This broadly mirrors the husbandry requirements of the parents. At these temperatures, babies will hatch after about 7-10 months of incubation.

I made some very interesting discoveries at different incubation temperatures that I tried out on this species.

Incubating at warmer temperatures +23°C (73.4 F) resulted in a greater percentage of females and they hatched at 7 months. Lower incubation temperatures at +19 - +20°C (66.2-68.0 F) resulted in a high percentage of males and they hatched after 10+ months of incubation. Therefore, this species appears to have temperature-dependent gender determination, like turtles, crocodiles, Eublepharis sp., and other reptiles.

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Once babies hatched, they can be kept in small groups in densely planted terrariums at the same temperatures as the parents. After about 3 months, it is possible to distinguish the genders; males tend to have higher crests at the tail base and will start showing more orange colouring, and the females will keep a more bright green colouration.

Conclusion

I am pleased to say I bred this species very successfully over several generations and several years. It is one of the nicest and most brightly coloured of all chameleon species, and they are a real joy to work with. I hope more breeders will work with them so we can ensure this species will not disappear from the hobby like many species that were lost once exports were closed.

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KEEPING

SHELL-THY Clinical Signs of Aquatic Chelonia.

By Dr Michaela Betts

Young Common snapping turtle (Chelydra serpentina) Valt Ahyppo/Shutterstock.com

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MARCH 2024

Title

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Keeping Shell-thy

A

quatic turtles are relatively popular as pets in the UK. For many years, the Trachemys genus was most popular but today there is a wide variety of captive species available from the tiny Reeve’s turtle (Mauremys reevesii) to the larger common snapping turtle (Chelydra serpentina). Within the UK it is illegal to release non-native species and, since the introduction of the Invasive Alien Species legislation, it is an offence to breed, trade, or move Trachemys scripta subspecies, with keepers only being allowed to maintain owned animals for the rest of their natural lifespan. To keep these animals for their natural lifespan, it is important to be aware of not only their proper husbandry but to be familiar with common clinical signs and differential causes for disease processes.

Water Quality

Water hygiene is a very important factor of aquatic and semi-aquatic Chelonia husbandry, with some species being more sensitive to water quality issues than others.

Poor water quality can contribute to skin and shell infections amongst over issues. As a minimum, the water quality should be tested on a weekly-fortnightly basis to assess the ammonia, nitrate, and nitrate levels of the water as well as the pH. The author prefers liquid water testing kits over paper. A hygrometer and salinity testing are also recommended. Numerous aquarist buffer systems are available to help maintain appropriate pH for the species.

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Appropriate depth of water varies but should be at least the width of the largest turtle’s shell at its widest point so that if overturned, the turtle will be able to right itself and avoid drowning.

The quality of water can rapidly deteriorate from contamination with excrement and food remnants.

An appropriate water filtration device for the size of the enclosure should be used to help remove faecal material and organic debris, often alongside water changes. How often water changes are needed depends on water volume, stocking density, temperature, MARCH 2024

Keeping Shell-thy

About the author: Michaela graduated from the Royal Veterinary College in 2018 with a degree in Veterinary Medicine. She initially worked with small animal, exotic, and wildlife species before spending 2 years at Suffolk Exotic Vets as a first opinion and referral exotic animal clinician.

She currently works as a research assistant in pathobiology and population sciences at the Royal Veterinary College and as a small animal and exotic species veterinary surgeon. Alongside this, Michaela is an educational speaker for Just Exotics, providing further education in exotic animals to other veterinary professionals, and is a member of the British Veterinary Zoological Society and Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians. She is currently completing her RCVS Certificate of Advanced Practitioner in Zoological Medicine.

Bubbles in mouth ©Benjamin Kennedy feeding frequency, and filtration systems in place.

External canister filters or rapid sand filters tend to be recommended depending on the set-up. Care should be taken when cleaning the filters, such as cleaning them in the tank water gently, as the process should not be removing the “good bacteria” responsible for biological filtration. Clean water should have little to no odour, and unless overly excited and expressing musk glands, turtles should also not have a malodour to them. Dechlorination of the water to remove chlorine and chloramines should be carried out if biological filtration is used or fish are present within the set-up.

Water temperature should also be measured, monitored, and kept within the optimum temperature zone for the species. Commonly a water heater is MARCH 2024

needed to maintain a suitable temperature throughout the enclosure design. If this is submersible, barriers should be erected to prevent potential contact burns.

Inappropriately high water temperatures promote fungal, bacterial, and parasite growth, and may also affect the stimulus to bask, resulting in deterioration of the shell. Inappropriately low water temperatures will reduce appetite and cause immunosuppression as it has an adverse effect on metabolism.

Temperature & Basking

A temperature range should be provided that is appropriate for the species, with a hot to cold gradient.

The hot and cool ends should be monitored with a thermometer. A primary heat source should help

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Terrific Tarantulas and How to Keep Them

Example of pre moult alopecia in Brachypelma hamorii tarantula ©Benjamin Kennedy

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MARCH 2024

Keeping Shell-thy

Red-eared slider (Trachemys scripta elegans) Jirapa339/Shutterstock.com to provide ambient heat at the lowest appropriate temperature, whilst a secondary heat source should provide the focal basking area with the higher end of the range during the “day”. Incandescent bulbs should be avoided as primary heat sources to prevent constant light exposure during the “night” period.

A dry basking area should be provided with a “hot spot” of both heat and ultraviolet light, typically with a reflector directed towards the basking area. Care should be taken to ensure there is a wide enough means for the turtle(s) to access the basking site, and that access is not too steep or too smooth. Generally, evaporation from the water will help to maintain adequate humidity levels, but the basking site needs to have a relatively lower humidity. A hygrometer in the basking area will help to assess this. The lower humidity is to ensure, alongside good ventilation and heat, that the shell can dry out completely whilst basking to reduce the risk of bacterial or fungal growth.

Diet

Most aquatic freshwater turtles are omnivorous, with juveniles and gravid females tending to be more MARCH 2024

carnivorous. The exact balance will vary over the individual’s life, and different species will have different dietary requirements, but the diet should contain a mixture of both plant and animal matter. It is important to rotate between food types offered to ensure a wide variety of food items are eaten. Fresh food should be provided daily to juveniles and every 2-3 days for adults, and ideally, no more than can be consumed in 30 minutes. Some recommended feeding in a separate tank to improve water hygiene but this must be weighed against handling stress. Good quality soaked pellets should make up part, but not all, of the diet. Invertebrates can be fed as an occasional treat as can raw, fresh whole small fish. These should not be frozen and thawed as the freezing process can destroy important vitamins, though freezing for more than three days can reduce parasite burden.

Supplementation is required when the diet is deficient in essential vitamins and minerals. This should be a vitamin and mineral powder with a high calcium content and low phosphorus content. This can be added to the food and mixed with a small amount of water before feeding or dusted on food items that are immediately consumed.

Over-feeding should be avoided to prevent obesity.

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Keeping Shell-thy

Chinese pond turtle (Mauremys reevesii) Luciano de la Rosa/Shutterstock.com

Common Clinical Signs Anorexia Defined as a lack of appetite or intake of food, anorexia is not a disease but rather a non-specific result of an underlying pathological or physiological condition. Whilst it may be considered normal during certain times of the year, it is important to differentiate between physiological anorexia and reduced food intake due to an underlying disease process or inappropriate husbandry.

Shell Issues Algae growth may occur as green algae colonises the shell of aquatic chelonia. If the husbandry conditions are appropriate, this is generally of little clinical concern and can be periodically scrubbed off with a soft-bristle brush to keep the levels under control. However, excessive algal growth may reflect poor water quality and, if the shell is compromised, penetrate the shell surface. Water quality should be tested and husbandry practices reviewed to ensure appropriate.

Inappropriate size and type of food offered, offering food at inappropriate times, suboptimal temperatures and humidity, inadequate exposure to ultraviolet lighting, poor water quality, lack of hiding areas, high stocking density, and a sudden change in diet are all potential husbandry issues that may contribute to anorexia. Any disease process or cause of stress to the animal could potentially present as anorexia so further investigations should be tailored towards identifying the cause and any negative consequences it has caused to the turtle as chronic anorexia can lead to fatty liver disease and nutritional and metabolic imbalances. Prompt investigation, diagnosis, and treatment of true anorexia and initiation of appropriate nutritional support can help to prevent the development of these negative consequences.

White regions on the shell may be indicative of bacterial and/or fungal shell infection, healed shell lesions, mineral deposits, or exposed healed bone that is missing the overlying scutes. The “dry” form of septicaemia cutaneous ulcerative disease (SCUD) will often present as dry white patches on the carapace and plastron alongside signs of anorexia and lethargy. It has been suggested this Is partly due to a combination of desiccation of the scutes from basking and rehydration from immersion causing contraction and expansion of superficial unshed scutes, meaning that turtles continuously immersed or basking may be more prone to this issue. It is worth noting that parts of shed skin often remain attached to the limbs or body of aquatic turtles and may have a white appearance to them, and should not be confused with SCUD. Turtles

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MARCH 2024

Some Issues Are More Than Skin Deep

100% NATURAL PEST CONTROL TAURRUS® is a living organism (predatory mite) that is a natural enemy of the snake mite (Ophionyssus natricis).

TAURRUS® mite predators are very small, measuring less than 1mm as adults. They are able to live for several weeks and reproduce in the areas where they find their prey. Despite its small size, the TAURRUS® predator acts aggressively and is able to attack and kill preys 3 to 4 times larger than itself.

Once released, the microscopic predators will actively seek and consume parasites. Once eliminated, the predators disappear naturally. The mode of action requires several days. After introduction of TAURRUS®, pest populations should be monitored: at first it will stabilize, and then gradually decline. In heavy infestations, several releases may be needed to eradicate all parasites.

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Keeping Shell-thy

Chinese softshell turtle (Pelodiscus sinensis) Tarumaphoto/Shutterstock.com should be promptly presented for veterinary assessment and treatment if infection is suspected as deeper infection of the bone and organs can occur if allowed to develop.

SCUD can occur in freshwater turtles of any age.

Contributing factors are poor water quality, overcrowding, lack of ultraviolet lighting, temperature extremes, trauma and abrasive enclosure paraphernalia, lack of a dry basking area, and immunosuppression. These factors ultimately lead to an overwhelming bacterial infection which can lead to sepsis, organ failure, and death. The disease is associated with a variety of opportunistic bacteria that are part of the normal environmental biome and reptilian gastrointestinal tract and most commonly cause infection secondary to trauma that has broken the integrity of the skin or shell. The disease can cause pitting of the shell and forms circular lesions between the dermis and the scutes, causing them to ulcerate and in some cases to slough off, and may cause the loosening and sloughing of claws. The lesions typically start at the seams of the scute and spread inward, and may have a roughened or flaky appearance in the initial stages.

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Diagnosis is typically made based on the history and clinical signs. The prognosis depends on the severity and chronicity of the condition and treatment may take several months before healing is observed, with scar formation associated if bone infection is present.

Swelling Swelling of the skin or the space beneath it can be a nonspecific sign seen in Chelonia.

Generalised swelling beneath the skin may be seen if there is fluid build-up of the individual. This is generally associated with more serious underlying issues such as kidney, liver, or heart disease, low protein levels in the blood, or obstruction of the blood or lymphatic vessels.

Bloodwork is usually indicated to rule out some of these underlying conditions. This should not be confused with obesity, where overweight individuals may deposit excessive fat in the axial and pre-femoral areas.

Swellings associated with joints may be seen with cases of articular or periarticular gout (a build-up of uric acid MARCH 2024

Keeping Shell-thy

Red Eared Terrapin (Trachemys scripta elegans) Sergii Votit/Shutterstock.com crystals in or around the joints), infection of the bone, joint, or soft tissue, parasites, metabolic bone disease, penetrating foreign body, or with trauma, including fractures and subluxations. Diagnostic testing and imaging are necessary for a definitive diagnosis of the underlying cause, and some of these causes require long-term management and support or may carry a poorer to guarded prognosis if they have progressed.

Ear Swelling Swelling over one or both ears is a presenting complaint in chelonians. Unlike mammals, the turtle ear is a simple structure that lacks an open external ear canal and is instead covered by a large scale known as the ‘tympanic scute’. The middle ear is a large tympanic cavity bordered by the eardrum, which is in direct contact with this overlying skin. The most common underlying cause of ear swelling in captive aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles seems to be abscessation. These can cause severe internal and external deformities if left to grow. Whilst the abscesses can be sterile, the majority are associated with bacteria and form a thick, caseous plug of purulent material within the middle ear. However, other possible causes for ear swelling are parasites underneath the skin, sebaceous MARCH 2024

cysts, haematomas (a solid swelling of clotted blood), and mycobacterial skin infections.

The cause of ear abscessation is not completely understood, but studies have suggested vitamin A deficiency may predispose turtles to develop the condition. It is suggested this is due to the impact on the immune system and the key role vitamin A plays in the normal maintenance of healthy skin. Secondary infection is typically associated with ingestion of contaminated water or an overgrowth of opportunistic bacterial in the mouth that then ascend the Eustachian tube that connects the middle ear to the throat. Appropriate temperature, water quality, and dietary supplementation are crucial in reducing the risk of developing this condition.

Successful treatment of ear abscesses requires surgical removal of the purulent material and appropriate antimicrobial therapy. Most turtles with ear abscesses surgically removed respond well to treatment and heal completely. However, the issue can recur if underlying vitamin deficiencies are not addressed, if there is an additional infection of the bone present, and if the infective material is not completely removed at the time of surgery.

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Keeping Shell-thy

Swollen eyes ©Benjamin Kennedy Swollen Eyes & Ocular Discharge Ocular conditions are often indicators of a systemic infectious processes rather than a primary eye issue.

Discharge from the eyes and swelling around the eyelids can be seen in association with upper respiratory tract disease, ocular irritants or trauma, viral or bacterial diseases, and low levels of vitamin A. Sea turtles lack lacrimal ducts and so produce a clear ocular discharge normally.

Hypovitaminosis A is a very common underlying aetiology of swollen eyes in turtles, and it results in a build-up of epithelial cells associated with the eyelids. Unfortunately, it is usually a result of long-term inappropriate diet and supplementation. The swelling can range from mild swelling of the eyelids to severe swelling with conjunctivitis to the extent that the individual is blinded.

Secondary infection is commonly seen with this condition that requires antibiotic therapy. Successful treatment involves correcting the diet and multivitamin/multimineral supplementation, and ensuring that the rest of the environment is appropriate in terms of temperatures, basking area, lighting provision, and water quality. In some cases, particularly those where the turtle is non-visual due to the swelling, hospitalisation may be necessary to commence appropriate supportive care and medication and to treat the eyes as necessary.

Herpesvirus can affect all ages and species of Chelonia, and there are at least four different strains reported. In aquatic turtles, it has been reported in various emydid species. Whilst it can present as ocular discharge signs, in aquatic species, it more often presents as weakness, nasal discharge, lethargy, stomatitis, hepatitis (liver inflammation), and sudden death. Viral detection is performed with polymerase chain reaction (PCR) detection of viral DNA. Appropriate quarantine measures should be in place to help avoid introducing the virus to a collection, and the mixing of different species of turtle should be avoided.

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Erythema Pink or red discolouration of the skin or beneath the shell is often an indicator of an infectious process such as a bacterial skin infection or, in some cases, serious septicaemia (blood poisoning by bacteria), or sometimes with hypovitaminosis A. Though it may seem relatively benign, the underlying cause can be a very serious clinical problem and, in most cases, warrants further investigation to identify and treat the underlying problem. Keepers should be familiar with the colouration of their turtles to identify if erythema is developing. Many juvenile freshwater species naturally have a reddish colouration to their plastron that fades as they age, and this should not be mistaken for erythema.

Abnormal Submersion Some health issues may present as abnormal floating at the water surface (front-to-back or uneven from side-toside) or an inability to submerge. Whilst the latter is more commonly displayed in sea turtles, these symptoms can be a sign of pneumonia as the pneumonic lung becomes heavier, gas accumulation within the gastrointestinal tract or coelomic cavity, or from any sort of unilateral mass within the individual such as a tumour, abscess, or foreign body. Diagnostic imaging should be pursued with a reptile-savvy vet to identify potential underlying factors, and next steps based on the findings.

In Conclusion

Whilst they can be rewarding to keep, aquatic turtles require a lot of work to be properly maintained. An understanding of appropriate temperature, lighting, water quality, basking area, and dietary supplementation is crucial in reducing the risk of developing health issues, as well as the many species-specific differences between them. As with other reptile species, signs of illness can be vague or non-specific compared to more commonly pet mammals, and keepers should be aware of clinical signs to look out for and the potential underlying causes.

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DIONE’S Title

RAT SNAKE: The Natural History and Captive Care

By Francis Cosquieri

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Dione’s Rat Snake

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croll down any reptile page or group on social media, and one of the most common questions you will see asked is “which is the best snake for a beginner?” And inevitably you will see the usual suspects listed – corn snakes, king snakes, royal pythons and so on.

Of course, all these are fantastic pet snakes, however in my opinion one of the most ideal candidates for both the beginner and the more experienced keeper that is often overlooked in these discussions is the Dione’s or Steppes rat snake (Elaphe dione).

About the Author: Francis Cosquieri is a key figurehead in British herpetoculture. An avid “herper” and longstanding keeper and breeder of reptiles, his fascination for unusual Colubrids has been eternalised in articles, lectures and forum posts. Francis combines his field observations with pioneering husbandry practices to contribute helpful information to both new and experienced keepers alike.

Introduction

At first glance this may seem to be just a typical “dull brown snake” and may escape the attention of many keepers eager for more brightly coloured or impressively sized animals. However, in my opinion, this species may be the perfect pet snake for the following reasons: It is as hardy as snakes come and tolerant of a wide range of conditions. It is small and generally calm and docile, so can be handled easily and safely, and can do well in nicely planted terraria without trampling the plants for those that like naturalistic enclosures It has a ravenous appetite.

It comes in a wide range of naturally occurring locality variants and the species also has many morphs associated with it for those that enjoy breeding projects. It is mostly

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diurnal which, combined with their natural boldness, means they are usually in view. They will breed very readily and the hatchlings come out of the egg as ravenous as their parents and chunky enough to eat pink mice. In other words, this species is a standout candidate for a first snake, and also offers much to the more experienced keeper – they are simply a truly pleasant species to keep. I purchased my first Dione’s rat snake around 25 years ago, and that specimen died earlier this year. Between then and now I have collected five different localities of this species (North China, Beijing, Xi’an, Georgia and South Korea) and bred many generations of them, and they easily rank as one of the most enjoyable species of snakes I have kept.

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Dione’s Rat Snake

reptiles4all/Shutterstock.com

The Natural History and Captive Care of Dione’s Rat Snake The species is especially meaningful to me as it is one I have encountered several times in the field, in several localities in China (south-west Beijing, Miyun, Huairou and Jinan). As I regularly visit China, where it is the most common snake around Beijing, it is a species I can observe more and more frequently in diverse and interesting landscapes; it is safe to say I have fallen in love not just with the snake itself but its habitat as well.

Dione’s rat snake is one of the most widely distributed snake species in the world; it occurs from Eastern Europe (Ukraine east of the Sea of Azov) in a fairly even band across the Middle East and Asia, through Georgia, Afghanistan, Azerbaijan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Kyrgyzstan and Russia, Mongolia, China and South Korea. There is an isolated subpopulation in the Mazandaran and Seman Provinces of Iran. In China it occurs at least as far south as Sichuan and Jiangsu and seems to occur further south in the east of that country MARCH 2024

than in the west; here the range overlaps with the similarlooking Twin-spotted rat snake (Elaphe bimaculata).

This snake inhabits a wide range of habitats across its range, from open steppes and flat lands in Eastern Europe to semi-desert in Mongolia and the Ordos plateau, light woodland and sparsely forested plains, marshland, scree and talus slopes, hedgerows, gardens, graveyards, parks and farmland. I have personally found several specimens of this species in a busy city park in Beijing, on wild sections of the Great Wall above Gubeikou, and rough land near the outskirts of Jinan.

In Europe, it inhabits lowlands up to 500m above sea level but further east it can be found at much higher elevations; it is found up to 1600m in the Altai and Caucasus Mountain ranges and is common around Ordos at about 1350m above sea level. It is said to have been recorded as high as 3580m above sea level. Throughout most of its range, but especially in the east, this is a common snake and is often the most abundant terrestrial species of snake.

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A black morph previously considered the subspecies E. dione nigrita reptiles4all/Shutterstock.com

Diet

Dione’s rat snakes are generalist feeders. Although their primary diet is comprised largely of rodents, they will also feed on lizards, frogs and the eggs of waterfowl. Prey is pinned down or even constricted before consumption and this species is quite powerful for its size. They are capable of taking surprisingly large prey; hatchlings come out of the egg fully capable of eating pink mice, and I have personally found wild juveniles less than a year old (around 30-40cm long) that each had hugely distended bellies on three different occasions; one of these regurgitated an adult rodent of some sort (probably a vole) when captured.

Juveniles seem well able to “punch above their weight” when it comes to prey. Like many rat snakes, this snake will vibrate its tail rapidly as a defensive response, creating a rustling sound in the surrounding vegetation (or a thumping against its terrarium walls!). They are usually calm and mild-mannered though. This snake inhabits relatively cool regions and has adapted to this by retaining eggs longer than usual, basking when they can to ensure they reach the correct temperatures. Once laid, the eggs have a very quick incubation period for the eggs; in particular, western animals and those from high altitudes lay eggs that take 2-4 weeks to hatch. Eggs from Chinese animals usually take a little longer, but still a relatively quick 6-7 weeks.

Appearance

This is a fairly small snake; western populations reach up to about 100cm; eastern animals can grow up to 160cm although this is rare. Generally, adult males average around 60-70cm, with females being larger. In 25 years of keeping this species, the largest animal I have ever seen measures 135cm, which is a Chinese specimen currently in my care.

Males have longer tails than females of the same age; this

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can be used to distinguish sexes between neonates with a fair degree of reliability if they are compared side by side.

The colouration of this species is so variable that one could look at specimens from different localities and be entirely forgiven for thinking they are looking at completely different types of snake. As such, it is difficult to accurately describe what the species looks like.

In general, there is a streak from the back of the eye to the corner of the mouth, and some manner of marking on the top of the head, usually a U- or W-shape. There are often two or four lines running down the back, although these may be very faint or almost absent altogether.

There are usually blotches running either singly or as a pair, which may be fused to look like cross-bands. The flanks also can have a row of blotches. Unlike some other related rat snakes, the pattern is uniform and does not vary much down the length of the body. The underside is usually fairly uniform with dark freckling towards the edges of the ventrals and can be white, buff, grey, pinkish, reddish brown or yellow. The dorsal colouration can be grey, brown, olive, russet, orange, almost black, reddish, brick red, ochre or yellow; whilst there are no subspecies assigned, localities can vary immensely in colour.

Enclosure design

Given it inhabits such a wide range of habitats across such a large range, it is probably rather obvious that Dione’s rat snake presents no special problems when it comes to housing and is rather adaptable and therefore tolerant of a broad range of conditions.

They are small snakes, so an average-sized adult male can be kept in a terrarium measuring 60x45x45cm as a minimum, although larger would be better as they are quite an active species. I prefer 90x45x45cm or even 120x45x45cm for adults. The very largest animals (over 120cm in length) would be even better served by an MARCH 2024

Dione’s Rat Snake

Elaphe dione is easily confused with E. bimaculata. They can be distinguished by the 'V' shape on the latter species’ head and a 'W' on the former’s Valt Ahyppo/Shutterstock.com enclosure of dimensions measuring 120x60x60cm, but I have only one specimen in my care this large and few reach 100cm.

They make great little display snakes. One of the benefits of this species is that it is hardy and adaptable and so the keeper’s choice of substrate and furnishings is not critical. They can be kept easily on standard substrates such as bark chippings, aspen or aubiose. I prefer a more naturalistic look so I use a substrate of soil mixed with sand and varying amounts of coco coir and grit, in a roughly 60:40 ratio so that the substrate will retain a hole if you poke a finger into it. This ensures the snakes can burrow.

On top of this, a layer of leaf litter or desiccated pine needles is provided, which will provide further enrichment for the snake and the opportunity to partially conceal itself.

I always ensure the substrate depth is at least 4” for smaller specimens, and up to 6-8” for larger adults. The snakes will invariably dig a lattice of underground burrows with several entrances, into which they will disappear if feeling disturbed, only to reappear elsewhere in the terrarium a moment later.

The snakes will appreciate some rocks and branches; they like to nestle partially exposed in alcoves between rocks and will use this sort of hiding place as a basking spot if the basking light is focussed on the rocks, and will also utilise branches to climb on frequently. A hide box filled with moist loam and sphagnum will provide an area of humidity.

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Heating and lighting

As a temperate species, this snake prefers fairly cool temperatures. I use a thermal gradient from about 21°C on the cool side to around 26°C on the warm end. A basking surface temperature of up to 30°C on an exposed rock is ideal, but this must not be allowed to overheat the rest of the enclosure, as the snakes do not like excessive warmth.

At night the electrical equipment is turned off completely and the enclosure temperature is allowed to drop to room temperature of 18-20°C. This is not a species well-suited to the tropical reptile room.

The snakes are diurnal and like to bask; as an inhabitant of Fergusson Zone 2, I give them a UV gradient across the enclosure from 0 to about UVI 2.5 or 3. The snakes expose themselves to the UV very willingly and are often found basking beneath it. This species is not aggressive and can be kept communally without issue, however, I would make two points here; firstly, only specimens that are the same size should be cohabited as this species will occasionally eat smaller snakes in the wild. Similarly-sized specimens display no aggression toward one another, although they must be separated for feeding as they tend to have a strong feeding response and may fight over food if one finishes before the other. Secondly, males should not be kept together with females. This is because males can bother the female, unduly trying to mate with her and will chase her all over the terrarium constantly even if she is not receptive to mating.

If these two precautions are born in mind, multiple animals can be kept in the same enclosure, although of course this

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Dan_Koleska/Shutterstock.com assumes that the enclosure size is increased proportionately for each animal and that extra hiding places are provided for the snakes to make use of should they not wish to be in contact with one another.

Brumation

A very important aspect of care for this species is brumation. This is a snake that often inhabits very inhospitable climates that experience drastic drops in temperature in the winter. As an example, in Ordos the yearly average temperature is 6.8°C, with summer highs around 24°C but winter lows below -12°C. Therefore, a long period of brumation is required for the best fertility for breeding. Without it, I have experienced rather mixed breeding success. With it, the snakes come out in spring like locomotives and fertility is notably improved.

The method I use is based on that presented in a wonderful article by Kim Caldwell in an old copy of Reptilian magazine (Issue 4 volume 7 from May 1997). This feature had a major impact on the way I keep my snakes. I use the following method for cycling my Dione's rat snakes which involves not only manipulating temperatures but manipulating lighting as well…

During the spring and summer, the lights are on for 14-16 hours a day. At the beginning of October, I reduce the photoperiod by an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening each week so that by the beginning of November the lights are on for about 8 hours a day. At the same time, the heating is gradually reduced as well. In many of my setups, the lights actually provide the heating, and so reducing them (with no additional heating at night) means this is automatically happening.

The snakes mustn't be fed towards the end of this period to avoid the risk of the food not digesting properly in the

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cooler temperatures; the last meals are offered at around the middle of October, and at least two weeks are left between this and the snakes being put under for brumation.

In mid-November, after several additional weeks at room temperature, the snakes are taken from their enclosures and put into individual tubs with sphagnum and a small water bowl and placed into a fridge set to the required temps (about 8-10℃). After three or four months of brumation (depending on the locality in question; Eastern European and Russian specimens are brumated for longer than Chinese ones), the snakes are returned to their enclosures and the process is reversed, gradually increasing photoperiod and temperatures over several weeks.

During this time the snakes should be fed a very small meal e.g., a single fuzzy mouse and allowed to defecate before another tentative feeding, and then their normal feeding can begin again.

Feeding

As Dione’s rat snakes have a wide spectrum of prey in the wild, I try to vary food for them as much as possible.

Fortunately, the snakes are never fussy and will usually eat whatever is presented. I use frozen/ thawed rats and mice of all sizes up to the size of a small weaner rat for my largest specimen, quail chicks, multimammate mice and the occasional hamster or gerbil. The adults will enjoy quail eggs as an occasional treat. Generally, I prefer to feed several small prey items at once rather than one large one; however, I do vary this and occasionally offer larger prey items that the snakes can take their time over. These are curious snakes that readily approach the keeper if they think there is prey and will even come out of the terrarium to try and steal any mice that are defrosting for other snakes. I have even had them dip into bowls of warm water to fish out defrosting mice (although I do not use warm water now to defrost rodents.

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Breeding

Breeding this species of rat snake is unproblematic following a period of brumation, and I have bred and raised many generations of this snake from several different localities. As with most of my snakes, I wait until a female’s third or fourth year before attempting to mate her, this is to ensure she has grown as much as she can before reaching sexual maturity. I once made the mistake of putting two young, yearling animals together that I thought were both female; one turned out to be a misidentified male which mated the female, who subsequently laid a clutch of eggs. That particular female never grew as large as her siblings as a result of expending so much energy producing eggs and was an abject lesson in why snakes should not be mated too early.

Females come out of brumation ravenous and will devour as much food as you can give them. Alternately, males tend to come out of brumation in full breeding mode and may refuse a couple of feeds and be seen to be very active, roaming their enclosure ceaselessly in search of a mate.

Once they are introduced to the female, they will copulate several times, each mating taking quite some time (from several hours to almost a day). After mating, the females will continue to eat and then stop right before their pre-lay shed, at which point the eggs will be visible and can be felt within her. After around 8-10 weeks, the females will lay between 3-24 (usually 4-8) large eggs that are 40-60mm in length. I have noted that the eggs of Chinese specimens appear more elongated than the rather round eggs of Western animals. Double clutching is quite common in this species and the female may lay a second clutch at the end of summer. The eggs appear surprisingly large compared to the snake and will swell over time. The female will be ravenous after laying and should devour prey with a renewed vigour. It is important to ensure she is very wellfed at this time.

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I incubate the eggs in homemade incubators at about 26-28°C. The babies hatch out at around 20-25cm after as little as two weeks (longer for Chinese specimens) and are stockier than corn snakes of the equivalent size. Males can usually be distinguished from females with some reliability by comparing tail length; animals with longer tails are likely to be male.

The babies are easy to raise; I start them off in 3L tubs with kitchen roll as a substrate, and after several successful feeds and sheds, I transfer them to smaller versions of the adult vivaria to grow up in. These can be smaller Exo Terra glass terraria or rectangular aquaria of dimensions 30x20x20cm; if the latter are lined up side by side, a single 60x30cm mesh aquarium lid can be placed above them.

Having the young snakes in glass aquaria enables greater ability to manipulate temperature gradients and provide UV from above the mesh; plus, it is also far more interesting for me to observe the young snakes in naturalistic enclosures than sterile ones.

Once the babies outgrow these intermediate enclosures, I put them into their adult enclosures. In general, the neonates are very easy to rear and will almost always take pink mice after their first shed. It is rare to have a baby refuse food for long. There are reports of baby Dione’s rat snakes eating cockroaches and other insects but this is not something I have seen myself.

Conclusion

Dione’s rat snake makes a fantastic vivarium subject that offers an ideal starter species for the first-time keeper, and an interesting and attractive snake for the more experienced herpetoculturist with a lot to offer any keeper.

I cannot recommend this species enough

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KEEPER BASICS:

ACQUIRING ANIMALS RESPONSIBLY hedgehog94/Shutterstock.com MARCH 2024

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Acquiring Animals Responsibly

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ll keepers are need to research the husbandry practices required to maintain their chosen species. However, few people reflect on the holistic processes that go into selecting and acquiring an animal. The following feature looks at ways a new keeper can ensure they are being as responsible as possible when acquiring a new animal.

Choosing the right species

Choosing the right species requires personal judgement.

Experience level and available resources are not the only factors to consider when choosing an exotic pet. One must also factor in the animals’ lifespan, the keepers’ lifestyle changes, holiday commitments and boarding options, daily operating costs and much more. Whilst personal judgement may be the deciding factor, the keeper should consider spending some time mixing with likeminded reptile keepers to discuss options well ahead of time.

Our survey recorded over 900 species of reptiles and amphibians being kept in the UK, so choosing the perfect one should require a significant amount of time.

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Sourcing the animal

For most keepers, acquiring captive-bred animals is the “responsible” thing to do. Whilst it can be argued that legally-acquired wild-caught specimens are beneficial to genetic diversity in captive populations and some wild-caught animals will go on to produce populations of animals well-suited to captivity, unless the hobbyist has a very plausible argument to acquire a wild-caught animal, captive-bred specimens are more appropriate.

There are several questions the prospective keeper must ask themselves when approaching a breeder or shop to acquire an animal. Firstly, is that person curious of the MARCH 2024

Acquiring Animals Responsibly

BearFotos/Shutterstock.com keeper? A breeder or seller that is not eager to learn more about the new keeper, may be a poor choice for the keeper to source their animal from. Someone does not have to be a novice to be a “new” reptile keeper. Someone that has kept snakes for 50+ years should still be considered a “new” keeper if they are to acquire their first chameleon, for example. In this case, maintaining a strong relationship between the breeder and the keeper will undoubtedly offer value to the keeper in the form of ongoing support and advice and peace of mind for the breeder knowing the animals they produced are well looked after. It is important not to take offence at shopkeepers or breeders for asking 101 questions about a keepers’ living situation as they try to ascertain whether they are the right person for the animal.

That is a sign of a good, responsible seller.

Social media is an excellent tool to learn of a business or a person’s reputation. Whilst it is important to support your local pet shop, it is not the responsibility of a customer to turn a blind eye to a business’ poor reputation if that reputation is well founded. There are many other businesses or private breeders that will provide exceptional care and customer support for such a huge commitment as acquiring a living animal.

Health condition

Shops typically only house animals for a short period before they find their forever home. They are required

by AAL licensing to provide the animals’ basic needs but young animals are often housed communally to save space. Juvenile reptiles are typically more tolerant of communal housing. Naturally, some individuals will be MARCH 2024

more robust than others and competition for food may mean some animals develop or put on weight quicker than others. This does not necessarily equate to poor health or that the animal should be avoided when selecting from a group of animals.

Equally, importing animals from abroad (even captivebred ones) can result in low-level dehydration and the shop must acclimate the species before it is ready for a new keeper. In both cases, a perfectly healthy animal may appear less vigorous than its counterparts. However, it is extremely important to assess the health of an animal before it is acquired which, in some cases, can be difficult.

Some animals, of all species are born with defects. If the breeder honestly advertises that the animal is afflicted with a health defect that is manageable, it might still be responsible to acquire this animal. If, however, a pattern occurs that suggests the defects are caused by bad breeding practices, the seller should be avoided. This applies to the breeding of problematic morphs and/or inbreeding.

If the animal shows any of the following health defects, consider halting the acquisition process until further research has been done: Crooked bones (bent toes, splayed feet, curved spines, etc), poor motor function skills (difficulty climbing or swimming), irregular behaviour (lethargy, staring in a single direction), bloat, unidentified patches of discolouration (this could indicate fungal disease in amphibians). Alternatively, speak to a veterinarian or ask the breeder whether they would be happy to have the animal checked over by a vet.

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Acquiring Animals Responsibly

Rehoming centres

There are numerous small-scale rehoming centres across the UK and many shops will also offer a rescue and rehoming service. The largest and most well-known rehoming centre is the National Centre for Reptile Welfare, based in Kent. The RSPCA also runs a reptile rehoming facility in Brighton. These facilities are typically run by experts, who will understand not only where the animal has come from, but also its temperament and specific needs. Whilst a rescue centre may not be able to offer the same level of species-specific information as a breeder that has worked with that lineage for decades, they will be able to offer ongoing support in other ways.

Rehoming centres are somewhat incentivised to move their animals on because space and resources are limited.

However, they should give the prospective keeper a very honest description of the animal, as the rescue centre may have to deal with the repercussions of an unsuitable pet being acquired by an unprepared keeper. Breeders, though typically very honest and approachable, do not have that same duty of care. This means that if the keeper is honest with the staff at the rescue centre during the assessment, they are likely to receive an animal well-suited to them. The NCRW alone saw 188 species pass through its doors in 2022, with increasing numbers year in and year-out. These statistics highlight the need for keepers of all experience levels to engage with rescue centres and consider them as a valid option for acquiring animals.

Prices

Beware of unusually priced animals. Whilst there will be some fluctuation between the prices offered by small-scale and large-scale breeders, prices should be somewhat consistent (with the exception of certain morphs). If a particularly rare, difficult-to-breed and highly prized

specimen is being sold at a low price, a responsible keeper should question the origins of that animal further.

There may be a perfectly justifiable reason for the lower price but ignoring that reason to progress with acquiring an animal could be irresponsible.

Most rehoming centres will ask for a fee or a donation to rehome an animal. If the centre operates solely as a rescue and rehoming centre, the keeper should be willing to support the organisation with a suitably sized donation.

However, the keeper may be more sceptical of prices set for re-homed animals in a shop setting. By maintaining a good relationship with the local reptile shop/rehoming centre and waiting for the perfect animal to become available, the keeper can feel reassured that they have done everything possible to acquire that animal responsibly.

Before bringing the reptile home

One excellent tip for new keepers, which is often practised by experienced keepers, is to run the enclosure for days if not weeks, before adding the animal. When creating a bioactive enclosure, this is a necessary step to test the drainage layer capacity, allow the clean-up crew to disperse and give the plants a chance to establish deep roots. However, extensive testing of any enclosure will benefit its inhabitants in the long run. This is necessary to establish robust environmental parameters before the animal is added to the enclosure. A 48-hour period mimicking the typical day/night cycle that will be used once the animal arrives will provide important data on the climatic variables. This should be recorded with two min/ max thermometers and hygrometers before an animal is acquired. However, extending this to 72 hours or longer will give the keeper more insight into potential hazards or areas of improvement before the animal makes it more difficult to make adjustments.

Are You Ready? Quiz The following questions are designed to help prospective keepers critically assess their chosen species for captivity. Aside from more general questions such as “have you researched this species?” and “what sized enclosure do they need?” the following questions are designed to take captive management understanding to a greater level.

1. If you had to find the animal in the wild, where exactly would you find it?

2. In the wild, what else lives or grows alongside this species?

3. What is the largest specimen that has ever been recorded of that species?

4. What is the expected captive lifespan of the species?

5. Can you list the names of three people who have bred this species in captivity?

6. What Ferguson Zone is the animal categorised in?

7. How long can your animal thrive for without direct human intervention and do you plan to be away from your animals for longer than this time at any point?

8. Does this species present a challenge to rehoming centres?

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Fascinating Fact

FASCINATING FACT Frog backpack

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he Suriname toad (Pipa pipa) attaches its eggs to its back once they are laid. Over time, skin grows over the eggs, securing them to the back of the female toad. The young develop over the course of a few

months and emerge as fully metamorphosed froglets. This adaptation allows the toad to occupy temporal pools deep within the Amazon rainforest and provides security for the developing young.

Sabana Suriname toad (Pipa parva) carrying eggs Dan Olsen/Shutterstock.com

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Flexible cover, optional frills!

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