Exotics Keeper Magazine August 2021

We look at how our relationship with tortoises is a perfect example of the leaps and bounds that exotic pet care has taken.

ALIENS ON OUR DOORSTEP

Shining a light on the strange skin and big eyes of the world’s secret invaders.

REJOICE AS ZOOS RE-OPEN!

It’s been a difficult year, but with doors now open, we have spoken to some of the zoos who have rejoiced as lockdown is lifted.

KEEPING FISH AS PETS

We are putting the spotlight on pet fish. Large, single specimen animals, which are more pets than display pieces.

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MAGAZINE PUBLISHED BY Peregrine Livefoods Ltd

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Print ISSN: 2634-4680

Digital ISSN: 2634-4688

EDITORIAL:

Thomas Marriott

Max Pedley

Aimee Jones

DESIGN:

Scott Giarnese

Amy Stonesmith

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Welcome to the August edition of Exotics Keeper Magazine. For any eagle-eyed readers, the introduction is now coming from myself, Tom. I have been writing most features for many months now so expect more of the same great content you have come to expect from this magazine. Our expert team are continuing to bring the most interesting updates from the world of exotics and this month is no different.

Jim Foster of ARC Trust and Gabriel Cohen, PhD student at the University of Zurich explain the impact of invasive species at home and across the world. Eleanor Chubb, European lead at the TSA tells us how we should be caring for our tortoises. Guest writer, Max Pedley shares his thoughts on the best ‘pet’ fish from puffers to Oscars. We catch up with some of the smaller zoos who faced challenges throughout the pandemic, to see how re-opening went. We also address the biggest misconceptions in reptile husbandry in our new ‘top 10’ feature.

With summer in full swing, we have been out filming several exciting projects. Be sure to check out

our YouTube channel, social media and website for all the latest information plus plenty of resources to improve animal welfare across the board. As the country begins to fully open once again, please show support to your local zoos, stay safe and have fun.

Thank you,

Thomas Marriott

Every effort is made to ensure the material published in EK Magazine is reliable and accurate. However, the publisher can accept no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers, manufacturers or contributors. Readers are advised to check any claims themselves before acting on this advice. Copyright belongs to the publishers and no part of the magazine can be reproduced without written permission.

Front cover: Cane Toad (Bufo marinus)

Right: Hermann’s tortoise (Testudo hermanni)

02 06 16

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19 24 32

EXOTICS NEWS

The latest from the world of exotic pet keeping.

06

CHANGING TORT BEHAVIOURS

Giving Mediterranean tortoises the welfare they deserve.

16 SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

Focus on the wonderful world of exotic pets. This month it’s the Gaboon Viper (Bitis gabonica).

19

REJOICE AS UK ZOOS RE-OPEN!

Despite a plethora of challenges, UK zoos are now fully open and their invaluable education can start to flow again.

24

FISH ARE FRIENDS

We are putting the spotlight on pet fish. Large, single specimen animals, which are more pets than display pieces..

32 ALIENS ON OUR DOORSTEP

Shining a light on the strange skin and big eyes of the world’s secret invaders.

40

ANIMAL FACTS

Did you know...?

41 TOP 10

This month we look at outdated husbandry strategies.

EXOTICS NEWS

The latest from the world of exotic pet keeping

First Ape to Use New Gadget

As previously mentioned, a new non-invasive method has been developed to safely monitor the heart health of great apes in captivity. The “KardiaMobile” finger EKG has now been installed at Zoo Atlanta and “Satu”, a 17-yearold Bornean orangutan, is the first great ape to be trained for a voluntary electrocardiogram (EKG). At Zoo Atlanta many of the great apes are trained for various voluntary medical procedures, including echocardiograms, injections, blood pressure measurement, X-rays, and blood collection. In this way, the apes are participating in their own healthcare – while also enjoying a fun game that includes great treats.

“KardiaMobile” is also now available to purchase for mobile human heart monitoring.

Red Wolf Conservation

For the first time Akron Zoo has bred the critically endangered red wolf. Female red wolf “Juno” gave birth to eight pups sired by male ”Waya”. As first-time parents, Juno is an excellent mother, while Waya is extremely protective of his new family. Four of the pups were designated by the Red Wolf Recovery Plan, a program led by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, to be cross fostered to a den in their native habitat, where a native red wolf had recently given birth.

The pups, two males and two females, were transported to North Carolina on Saturday May 1st and USFWS officials successfully introduced the pups to the foster den that day. This is the first time

since 2014 that red wolf pups have been reintroduced into their native habitat. Red wolves are critically endangered, with fewer than 20 wolves estimated to be left in their native habitat. The release of the pups was part of a collaborative partnership for a historic release. Four adult red wolves collectively from the Endangered Wolf Center, Wolf Conservation Center and

Wolf Haven International were also released on April 30th. The four red wolf pups remaining at the Akron Zoo, three males and one female, are doing very well. The pups are currently living in a den box offshow, they may begin venturing out of the den box around the end of May, and visitors may begin to see the pups in the red wolf habitat in June.

©Zoo Atlanta`s Orangutan Care Team

Bamboo Sharks Bred By Artificial Insemination

Scientists have produced 97 white-spotted bamboo sharks (Chiloscyllium plagiosum) by using artificial insemination. The species from the Indo-Pacific Ocean is regarded as being “Near Threatened” by the IUCN. Its relatively small size, only reaching three feet (1 metre) in length made it easier to handle for reproductive procedures. In addition the species is widely held in aquariums enabling semen to be exchanged between collections.

The study was led by scientists from the South-East Zoo Alliance for Reproduction & Conservation, a non-profit facility based in Florida, in collaboration with the Aquarium of the Pacific in California, Ripley’s Aquarium of the Smokies in Tennessee, The Florida Aquarium, Adventure Aquarium in New Jersey, and the Field Museum in Chicago.

Artificial insemination of sharks could foster healthier populations in aquariums by encouraging genetic diversity, by removing the need to transport sharks between institutions for mating purposes, according to the researchers. Moving sharks from one place to another is a costly process that is also stressful for the animals.

Scientists collected semen from 19 male whitespotted bamboo sharks and used it to inseminate 20 females. The study took four years to complete, according to lead author Jennifer Wyffels, who conducted research for the study with the South-East Zoo Alliance for Reproduction & Conservation and is now a postdoctoral researcher at the University of Delaware. The fact that white-spotted bamboo sharks lay eggs was also key.

“It is much easier to monitor eggs for embryo

Rare Coelacanths Found by Shark Hunters

A group of South African shark hunters have unwittingly rediscovered a population of the Coelacanth fish in the West Indian Ocean off the coast of Madagascar. The fishermen were using “Jarifa gillnets” to target sharks, these deep-sea nets reach between 328 – 492ft below the surface, when they accidentally captured the rare fish.

The prehistoric coelacanth dates back 420 million years, and was thought to have been extinct until 1938, when the first living coelacanth in recent memory was discovered off the South African Coast. Now the fear is that the coelacanths are at risk of

development than it is to examine a pregnant female shark,” Wyffels said. “Two to three females were inseminated at a time, Wyffels explained, but they each had to be monitored for about six weeks prior to confirm they were laying eggs, and that those eggs weren’t being fertilized with sperm stored in the body from previous mating encounters -- an ability of many shark species”. “Females that store sperm are no longer dependent on repeated mating with males to fertilize their eggs throughout the laying season and can instead focus their energy and efforts on other activities such as feeding,” Wyffels said.

Each trial required nearly nine months to complete before a new one could start, according to Wyffels. In some cases, male and female sharks involved in the study were located in the same aquarium, but scientists also experimented with the viability of cold-stored semen shipped overnight between participating institutions -- from New Jersey to California, and from Florida to Tennessee.

Out of 31 species of Oceanic shark species 16 are classified as being critically endangered or endangered.

“exploitation,” in Madagascar. Several have already been captured from what appears to be a sizeable population, including possible sub-species of coelacanth.

©Christophe Archambault

Fossilized Turtle Species New To Science

A team of researchers from Universität Freiburg, the Denver Museum of Nature & Science, Université d’Antananarivo and Stony Brook University have discovered a new species of Pelomedusoid turtle in Madagascar. In their paper published in the journal Royal Society Open Science, the group describes the features of the turtle and why they believe it represents the convergent evolution of specialized suction feeders among pleurodire.

The ancient turtle`s fossilized skeleton was found in a geological formation in a part of Madagascar generally rich in fossilized birds, mammals, crocodiles and even dinosaurs. Study of the turtle, which the team has named Sahonachelys mailakavava, showed it to be from the Late Cretaceous period and that it was a Pelomedusoid (freshwater turtle) and that it was less than a half-meter long. They note that the turtle find is particularly important because it has both a shell and a skull—most others from its era have one or the other. Having a complete skeleton, they note, makes it easier to place the turtle on the family tree. They have found it to be a predecessor of podocnemidid turtles, in modern times they live in South America and Madagascar. They also suggest that the find confirms that fauna in Madagascar was already unique by the Late Cretaceous period. The researchers suggest the ancient turtle most likely fed on small prey such as fish fry, insect larvae or tadpoles. Its name comes from a mix of Malagasy and Greek and means “quick-mouthed frog turtle.”

ON THE WEB

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THIS MONTH IT’S PICTURE THIS

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The researchers describe the turtle as flat-headed with a big tongue and a gracile lower jaw, which likely gave its head a frog-like appearance. They believe it was most likely a suction feeder. Most aquatic predators, they note, nab their prey by darting and grabbing—suction feeders, in contrast, hold their head steady and use the suction that develops when they open their mouths to pull their victim into their bodies. Like most turtles, S. mailakavava was toothless, which suggests it used suction to pull its prey all the way down its throat. They note the rest of the structure of its head was very well suited to creating suction, including a mouth that formed a circle.

Collated and written by Paul Irven.

A reconstruction ©Andrey Atuchin

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CHANGING TORT BEHAVIOURS

Giving Mediterranean tortoises the welfare they deserve.

Hermann’s tortoise (Testudo hermanni)

Tortoises have been kept in the UK for centuries. In fact, the earliest documented record goes all the way back to 1625 when William Laud, Bishop of London kept a Spurthighed tortoise (Testudo gracea) at Lambeth Palace. Fast forward almost four centuries and our fascination with these charismatic reptiles is just as prominent as ever.

As exotics keeping continues to develop into a professional hobby with animal welfare standards at the forefront, our relationship with tortoises is a perfect example of the leaps and bounds that exotic pet care has taken.

Eleanor Chubb is the European Lead for the European Turtle Alliance, Founder, Coordinator and Lecturer of Tortoise Welfare UK and Norfolk Tortoise Club. Eleanor explained: “We should look at the wild to care for tortoises in the best way we can. Tortoise keeping has become so much more exciting because

of improved information and products to help animals to not only make them more interesting to keep, but also to help them thrive in captivity.”

“We now know tortoises shouldn’t last just a few years. If you get it right, you should have a beautifully smooth tortoise who’s active and lives for a lifetime. The most important thing is to keep up with research. Things do change and nothing is black and white. With a variety of correct and incorrect answers to confuse us, it’s about having a good broad overview.”

Spur-thighed tortoise (Testudo gracea)

Coming out of your shell

Eleanor is keen to encourage keepers read, join clubs, groups and social networks to keep up to date with the latest breakthroughs in tortoise welfare. As each keepers’ circumstances are different, there is a vast spectrum of successful tortoise keeping standards. In summer, outdoor enclosures are always considered the best but available space, south-facing gardens, varying budgets and number of tortoises will always mean there are multiple ways to do things. There are online resources that can offer constructive and supportive advice. Pinterest enclosure can offer some great visual resources, whilst sites like ‘the tortoise table’ offer a free online directory of edible feeds. Modern keeping has never been easier.

Eleanor continued: “We now know that tortoises massively benefit from outdoor and indoor enclosures. There are lots of resources online so really there’s no excuse to not provide both. There is always a way to create an indoor and outdoor enclosure to your budget without it costing the earth. Plus, why waste money on extra lamp time when the sun is a free and effective way to offer vital vitamin d3? Just make sure you avoid using netting as tortoises don’t understand they can’t walk through and can get trapped and never underestimate how good they are at climbing and wandering off within a moment of distraction”

Outdoor enclosures can vary in size and the different materials that are used to create them. From paving slabs used vertically

to state-of-the-art panel fencing, there are a whole myriad of ways to create an outdoor enclosure for a tortoise. Of course, the very best outdoor enclosures will also be attached to a shed or greenhouse that allows a warm area for the tortoise to bask as and when it needs to.

Eleanor continued: “One breakthrough that’s come to life in recent years is the benefit of providing a basking lamp. Not a spot lamp, not a radiator and not a heat mat. Tortoises should have a lamp that will warm them to their core, and this is essential to help them digest properly, to absorb vitamins and to ovulate properly. If you have one tortoise a flood all-in-one lamp can work well, but if you have a group, separate UV strip

Horsfield’s tortoise (Agrionemys horsfieldii)

Changing Tort Behaviours KEEPING MEDITERRANEAN TORTOISES`

HERE ARE THE DO’S

DO feed your tortoise a natural diet comprising mostly weeds and flowers.

DO provide calcium carbonate to tortoises, plus, ideally, Nutrobal vitamin supplement, especially for babies, breeding females and the elderly.

DO give your tortoise access to a dry light shelter during cold or wet weather and allow access to outdoors, natural sunlight or UVB combo heat lamps

DO allow females access to nesting mounds and keep aggressive males and female separate to avoid stress to animals.

DO create an interesting indoor and outdoor environment with lots of space for a tortoise to exercise and explore. (Review and extend setup as tortoise grows).

DO make sure your tortoise enclosures are secure and photo ID your tortoise.

DO give your tortoise access to bathing and drinking water (1520 minutes) bath in warm water and should be able to put its head under the water to drink.

DO make sure a tortoise visits a vet at least once per year for a general health check and worming (Please ask for recommended vets.)

DO check your tortoise thoroughly for signs of damage injury or disease once a week and weigh your tortoise in grams at least once a month. Keep a record of date and weight.

DO hibernate all healthy Mediterranean tortoises for a short time and check regularly. 12-14 weeks for adults/6 - 8 weeks babies/very elderly.(note: shorter for some species). Sick or underweight tortoises should be kept awake throughout winter. (If unsure always consult a vet when you go for a prehibernation check-up)

and basking lamp is the way to go. T5’s have a great UVB output over a larger area which is essential for D3.”

Even the most novice of keepers understands we should be keeping reptiles warm. While tortoises should be provided with a source of heat that warms their core rather than their environment, this can lead beginner keepers to have some animosity about putting their animals outside. In the UK, our temperatures can be much lower than the Mediterranean and West Asia where the popular Hermanns and Horsfield tortoises come from. After putting a tortoise outside they can appear lethargic and this can be a scary prospect for a devoted pet owner.

Eleanor explains: “Tortoises, like a

plant, can sometimes need time to adjust in a change of environment. If a tortoise has been used to warmer temperatures indoors then it can sometimes help to wait until a lamp or warm bath has helped raise the animals core temperature before offering a few hours in a secure outdoor enclosure. Although nighttime temperatures can be a normal house temperature, tortoises benefit from a basking area of 30°C and this should be from a white lamp, not a ceramic or a red light. Repeat the process of outdoor introduction daily and you should find that the tortoise’s ability to stay active outdoors improves as time goes on. The same principle can be applied to switching a tortoise to a more varied diet with regular vitamin supplementation”

Greenhouse with nesting area

Walking on eggshells

Keeping tortoises requires a good understanding of how and why issues can occur. As with all exotic animals, if there is a health defect arising from an otherwise quarantined and healthy animal, there is a high chance of a husbandry issue. Whether this is a result of diet balance, enclosure elements or another tortoise, understanding the natural conditions an animal would be exposed to is a great way to counteract any potential issues.

Eleanor continued: “One common problem is concerns about egg retention and spaying. Just because a tortoise is pregnant doesn’t necessarily mean it’s sick. Ensuring good access to vitamins and natural high fibre diet can help tortoises naturally lay eggs. Like chickens, this can still occur without the presence of a male. Just by providing deep substrate in a sunny area will give them the option to lay.”

“The one common mistake you can make with indoor enclosures is not providing enough substrate. The best substrates are the ones that are mixed. Dedicated products make this easier, but people can also mix their own. It also provides enrichment as it offers a great media for a tortoise to burrow in and sleep. This is particularly important for young growing tortoises who need good humidity to help them grow smooth and preventing breathing and eye issues. Sand can be labelled to use with caution as it can cause eye irritation especially with

horsfields, but if this is monitored and environment is not allowed to become to dry and dusty this is a not a high-risk situation. People often report issues of compaction, believing it is due to their substrate. This can be avoided with good husbandry by providing very regular calcium supplementation and access to D3 lighting and powder supplement. For peace of mind, keepers can also feed their tortoises on solid plate or food dish. Tortoises can sometimes try to eat substrate and stones if they are deficient in vitamins and trace elements. Offering cuttlefish bone and chalk lump will also help prevent this potential issue. You want a good 3 -4 inches of substrate which can be difficult to provide in a vivarium.”

“You also need a drastic temperature difference between the hot end and the cool end, which can be difficult to achieve in smaller vivs. However, the real game changer is using greenhouse enclosures, especially when a tortoise is reaching adulthood and requiring more space than a viv or table can provide. Setting it up in a sunny location, ensuring it’s secure and the tortoise is away from dogs or ponds etc, that’s perfect for them. Many keepers get their head around the indoor enclosure but get so scared by the outdoor enclosure that they just don’t do it and that’s really missing the best opportunities for the tortoise. It can actually be really exciting to create a well planted enclosure with lots of aggregate, enrichment, climbing opportunities etc. If you bring them in at night and do it slowly it is easier than you think.”

A pair of eastern Hermann’s tortoises (Testudo hermanni)

Changing Tort Behaviours

No good, dry again

Whether indoors or outdoors, providing some level of humidity is key to keeping a healthy tortoise. Without that humidity, an issue known as ‘pyramiding’ can occur. This causes the shell to grow bumpy and can lead to serious health defects.

Eleanor explains: “Hydration is SO important. In indoor enclosures, it’s so common to see tortoises with bladder stones, impacted gut, dry skin and bumpy shells and a big factor in this problem is tortoises are being kept too dry. Make sure you mix spaghnum moss and actually pour pints of water into the substrate. Spraying usually isn’t enough! If your substrate is dusty or a bit clayey, buy a coco brick to actually make it a little crumblier and help it retain the moisture. Tortoises can’t cough as they have solid chests, so it’s really important we don’t keep them in dry enclosures.”

People also often bathe their tortoise. In the wild, tortoises would get the majority of their water from their diet but sometimes encounter puddles to drink from. As they come from arid environments, this prompts them to pass the water they are retaining immediately. “Bathing a tortoise is something you can do which costs nothing but helps keep them healthy. This flushes things out and helps their kidneys keep healthy” explained Eleanor. “You should aim to soak a healthy tortoise once or twice a week for 20 minutes. Frequency should be increased during periods of stress or illness as a general guide. Tip: Be prepared for a tortoise to sometimes drink for several minutes without lifting it’s head to take breath. This is normal and shouldn’t be a reason to end bath time early. The tortoise should be deep enough for the tortoise to submerge its head. It’s too deep if the tortoise is bobbing like a cork!”

Changing Tort Behaviours

The good stuff

Vitamin and calcium supplements have been commonplace in the reptile keeping industry since the early days. Although these have developed over the years to encompass other elements, natural ingredients and in some cases become more palatable, they are often entirely necessary for the conventional means of reptile care in the UK.

Eleanor continued: “You can’t overdose calcium but you can overdose vitamin D3. But people are so worried about overdosing their tortoise that they often under supplement or don’t bother at all. In extreme cases tortoises can lose the use of their back legs because they haven’t absorbed enough D3 for healthy bones. In the UK, even with the best natural diet, you will not be able to give them enough vitamins, calcium, trace elements and D3 without using a supplement. Nutrobal is my favourite but they don’t

like the taste of it so you will need to hide it. Applying it to a small piece of cucumber as a treat is the lesser of the evils that they actually really enjoy the taste of. Tortoises are like children. They are really fussy, but with patience they always come round eventually.”

“There are lots of junk foods out there too. Cucumber, rocket, baby gem lettuce, they’re all just basically water so they should be avoided unless they’re used as a means to give vitamins. However things like fruit and vegetables should be avoided full stop. Even though they love it, it can bind to the urea and create awful bladder stones. Because tortoises are so dependent on their natural environment, they don’t like change. So, if you need to provide a healthy diet, don’t give up. Always try to chop up dried flowers and healthier foods and mix it in with the more palatable salads. This can take a whole summer! But I guarantee if you persevere, they will come around.”

Hermann’s tortoise (Testudo hermanni)

Changing Tort Behaviours

Providing a healthy diet

One of the great things about keeping Mediterranean tortoises is the opportunity to learn and grow natural forage. Although it is likely to prove a daunting task at first, perseverance to learn seasonal plants has huge benefits for both the tortoise and keeper. Not only are plants packed with natural vitamins and minerals, but they also offer fibre and vital enrichment to a tortoise. House, garden and wild flower plants are now available from a variety of suppliers. Mixed with a flower and leaves plant topper, grass pellets with supplement should be the target for all keepers. Pellets are a great way to add fibre and fortified vitamins, but where possible mix with fresh browse to encourage variety which is absolutely essential to keeping a tortoise healthy.

As we slowly move away from the pristine, sterile environments we used to think were so important to reptiles in the 90s, it can be very difficult to have faith in collecting wild plant matter. Feeding wild foods can be off putting for many keepers, but Eleanor suggests that generally, people worry too much when it comes to sourcing a wild diet.

“The general rule is if it’s highly dangerous to a child then of course your tortoise won’t do well and should be removed from reach” explained Eleanor.

“Also, if it comes from a bulb or has waxy leaves it is probably toxic too, but people need to stop worrying so much about whether plants are toxic. The majority are absolutely fine. The main things are to avoid kale, beans, fruits and veg because they can create horrible bladder stones, deformities, and organ failure. They manage to hide being ill so well that it’s difficult to pick up on their illness until it’s too late. So, be mindful to avoid a ‘well it seems to be doing fine’ approach.”

In the wild, tortoises are very much in tune with the seasons. They will wake from hibernation in Spring before feeding on the earliest shoots of the year. These smaller shoots are chocked full of protein and fats which help the tortoise regain its energy early in the year. If the tortoise were to feed on these high-protein plants all year it would be extremely unhealthy, but as the seasons change so do the plants and the tortoise will naturally revert to a healthier diet.

Eleanor continued: “Even our weeds can be a bit rich so counteract this with dry flowers and grass based pellets. Try to avoid young shoots as they will carry too much protein but also avoid picking flowers that have gone dry, woody or strawy. Not only will the tortoise not like this, but there can be a build up of toxins in these. Pick healthy adult plants.”

Horsfield’s tortoise (Agrionemys horsfieldii)

A new horizon

It is no secret that the way we used to keep tortoises in the UK was often terrible. At just 50p, they were treated as commodities, left to fend entirely for themselves in our gardens rarely growing to adulthood. Now, with the help of organisations equipped with in-situ research, open discussion and veterinarian know-how we

Changing Tort Behaviours

KEEPING MEDITERRANEAN TORTOISES

HERE ARE THE DON’TS

can share a wealth of knowledge almost instantly. Therefore, our much-loved tortoises are finally receiving the care and respect that they deserve. Eleanor concluded “there’s loads of great communities out there. Norfolk Tortoise Club is a very supportive community. It’s about sharing that message and getting the best information out there.”

DON’T over feed your tortoise. One meal a day or access to natural grazing is enough.

DON’T feed your tortoise with cat or dog food. High protein diets are lethal to tortoises.

DON’T feed only tomatoes cucumber and lettuce, sugary fruits or vegetables, especially from cabbage or bean family IT’S JUNK FOOD!

DON’T leave your tortoise in a damp cold environment.

DON’T keep your tortoise permanently indoors. Allow access to outdoors during periods of warm weather to benefit from natural UV sunshine in secure garden.

DON’T leave your tortoise and pet dog unattended.

DON’T allow your tortoise free access to a garden pond

DON’T let your tortoise get too cold or hot in hibernation, 4c to 8c is perfect. Regularly check temp and condition. (See hibernation care sheet)

Mediterranean tortoises

When we refer to ‘Mediterranean tortoises’ we are generally referring to three species, of which there are multiple subspecies and variation between locales. These species are the Hermanns tortoise (Testudo hermanii), the Horsfield/Greek tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii) and the spur-thighed tortoise (Testudo graeca). These species inhabit arid regions of South and Eastern Europe, into Russia and Asia and are the most prolific in hobby.

Other species that would fall under the umbrella of Mediterranean tortoises include the marginated tortoise (Testudo marginata) and the critically endangered Egyptian tortoise (Testudo kleinmanni). It is important to note that while the care of these species have multiple crossovers, there is not a ‘one size fits all’ guide for tortoise care. Equally, tortoises from outside of the Mediterranean that are popular in the hobby such as the red footed tortoise (Chelonoidis carbonaria) from the South American tropics and the leopard tortoise (Stigmochelys pardalis) from East African savannahs, will naturally require very different care.

DON’T use hay or straw as a bedding material.

DON’T oil, polish or drill your tortoises shell

For further information, including free care sheets, please visit www.tortoiseclub.org

An outdoor tortoise enclosure

SPECIES SPOTLIGHT

The wonderful world of exotic pets

Gaboon Viper (Bitis gabonica)

Gaboon vipers are the largest of the vipers, with some individuals reaching beyond 2 meters in length. Their 5cm fangs and angular head shape gives them a menacing appearance, though they are some of the more popular venomous snakes kept within the hobby.

Gaboon vipers are viviparous, meaning they give birth to live young. After a 7 month gestation period, females can birth up to 30 offspring at once. This typically happens during the rainy season which runs from September to December in their native range of sub-Saharan Africa.

In typical terrestrial viper fashion, the Gaboon viper is a solitary and nocturnal animal that will spend the majority of its time stationary in ambush. Its incredible camouflage contributes to the many deaths that this species has caused as people often disturb the snake before they even know it’s there.

As with all venomous animals, keepers should seriously consider whether keeping an animal with the potential to kill its owner is the right decision. DWA licenses are required meaning a secure facility and enclosure are necessary to keep this animal. However, as these snakes have been kept in private collections since the 1970s and they have an extremely placid temperament 99% of the time, they are a popular venomous species.

For the average keeper, the horrific combination of hemotoxins and cytotoxins in this snakes venom, capable of limb loss and fatalities, is enough to put them off. Yet, those that want to keep this species outside of the African continent should also keep 10-20 vials of South African Polyvalent Antivenin in a refrigerated place in the home for the 1% of times that Gaboon vipers can get grumpy.

REJOICE AS UK ZOOS RE-OPEN!

Despite a plethora of challenges, UK zoos are now fully open and their invaluable education can start to flow again.

Zoos play a pivotal roll in conservation. By inspiring young people to love exotic animals and giving them access to zoological education otherwise omitted in our national curriculum, zoos are the catalyst for creating generations of zoologists, conservationists, scientists, and keepers alike. Aside from their dedicated global conservation efforts and scientific research, having an open door has immense ripples in the way we view wildlife. Therefore, the closure of many zoos in the UK over the last 12 months has been challenging to say the least. Upkeeping animal welfare without consistent income has been a main priority for many zoos, but with doors now open, we have spoken to just some of the zoos who have rejoiced as lockdown is lifted.

A picture of recovery

Tropiquaria Zoo in West Somerset was closed for a total of 267 days throughout the three lockdowns. Only one government grant provided relief for the zoo causing great tension. However, they are now open once again.

Chris Moiser at Tropiquaria Zoo said: “We knew from the start that it was going to be long (and might not be over now). So, our strategy was loving our staff and our visitors and trust in fate, but to communicate all the time. We went public with our fears, set up donation sites for cash and food, and later building materials, realising people would be cleaning out their garages. Ultimately, we received over £3,000 worth of materials which we could use. I did a daily blog on Facebook; the rule was always something positive, always a pic of our animals, always a piece of music suggested and a list of what people could donate that would be of most use over the next few days. We took every media opportunity we could - hence we appeared on “Mary Berry saves Christmas” a wonderful experience that brought the staff even closer together.”

Now we approach the end of lockdown, Chris explained: “Re-opening went well, we re-opened

on 17th May. For first half term our visitor numbers were great despite the local holiday camps operating at less than normal capacity due to staff shortages. We have done a lot through our volunteers whilst closed. We now have 2 new displays at the front of the building, guinea pigs and ferrets. Not too adventurous, but research during lockdown showed that some of the biggest zoos in the world had these two species listed as favourites even when they were competing with giant pandas etc. The cages were built from recycled play equipment.”

A similar air of optimism and community support happened at Ark Wildlife Park in Lincolnshire. Like many others, this zoo created a wish list to upkeep the zoo. Jamie Mintram at Ark Wildlife Park said: “We were blown away with the public support we received, as with many zoos we set up a crowdfunder page and the response was amazing as well as the Buy a bag scheme where people could purchase food for the animals. We had items from our Amazon wish list delivered daily from our supporters with everything from enrichment items for the animals to wheelbarrows and tools to help make our work easier, this support certainly kept us going both financially but also boosted our moral

on the most difficult days knowing people were thinking about us.”

“We were finally able to re-open on May 17th, having to wait until then due to large areas of the site being indoors, re-opeing even with limiting the daily number of tickets for social distancing reasons has gone extremely well and the site is now

fully open, with our work alongside various welfare organisations now starting to get into full swing again. We have a number of exciting new projects in the pipework for this year working with primates and some unusual wildcats, we’re hoping to put 2020 and the first half of 2021 behind us as I’m sure most people are and now concentrate on the exciting developments in the future.”

For some zoos that rely on visitors from across the country, rallying support from the local community could have proven much more difficult. However, this was not the case down in Shaldon.

Zac Showell at Shaldon Wildlife Trust said: “As a zoo based in a seaside tourist-driven area, being shut during main holiday periods was a real worry. Another worry was how we’d deal with covid-19 as such as small team, fortunately we didn’t have to explore that, but it made for some sleepless nights. The reopening has gone brilliantly, we have been thoroughly supported by locals and tourists alike.”

“As one of the smallest collections in the UK, it made it easier for us to fit the very rigid constraints the Government placed on the zoo-specific funding, and we felt a higher benefit from the small businesses grants than others because of our size. Engaging with the media absolutely helped, getting a shout out from a social media influencer and a short spot on our local news meant we fundraised nearly £8000 in a week and received huge donations of food for our animals.”

“During lockdown we managed to build a new lemur enclosure! We also undertook a very large project of rebuilding our raised pathways during the latest lockdown to make them easier to access. And whats next? Well, there’s going to be a very interesting South-east Asian carnivore hopefully joining our collection this summer.”

Seasonal and travelling zoos

With many collections also encompassing outdoor play areas, seasonality is an important factor. Whilst there may be positive stories of community support, the lockdown restrictions stretching over almost two summers is bound to have had an effect.

Dawn Gilbert at Comb Martin Wildlife and Dinosaur Park said: “As a seasonal business we close throughout the winter which we have to fund with money taken during the season. When the government announced closure in March we had no funds left to fall back on. My only criticism is that it took too long to

get help and when the government finally helped in May the grant did not cover the previous months we had been closed.”

“At the moment we are finishing projects we had started already but had to stop because of Lockdown. This includes our new primate enclosures. Our main focus is catching up on all essential maintenance so support from our visitors is much appreciated.”

Other exotic animal education facilities have also felt the pinch. Unable to reach their usual planned events, The Reptile House had to adapt to a new way of working. However, with things opening again they’re on track to return bigger than ever. Mitch Walker at The Reptile House said: “After the first lockdown we were able to open outside but could not offer any animal experiences as this is all we do. We offered private tours for a

donation which worked well but did not cover the running costs.”

“We were grateful for the government grants which helped with some of the running costs, but we also sold one of our work vans, have a large bounce back loan and used all our personal savings to keep going.”

“Now we are open - and being small and only open for experiences means there are never any large crowds.  We offer a keeper to everyone who comes who will guide them through their experience whether it be handling and learning about many of our reptiles.”

WHAT COMES NEXT?

Supporting Zoos

With donations from different industries helping to support zoos where they can, some niches were more difficult to fill. Peregrine Livefoods donated over £200,000 of feeder insects to over 100 zoos to support them throughout the pandemic. This provided a vital lifeline to countless reptiles, amphibians, and small mammals.

If the COVID-19 pandemic has taught us anything, it is that we should never take things for granted. From the small things like hugging family members, to the bigger obstacles we have all faced, we know that nothing is certain.

However, with zoos now open once again, it is a perfect time to support your local zoological institutions. We have spoken to just a handful of the amazing organisations working extremely hard to educate and inspire a generation to love exotic animals. Now, as zoos move forward in their endeavours, we can only encourage all readers to go out there and show as much support as possible!

FISH ARE FRIENDS

We are putting the spotlight on pet fish. Large, single specimen animals, which are more pets than display pieces.

By Max Pedley

Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens)

In recent years, a trend of “disposable” fish appears to have crept up on us. Advertisements on buying and selling groups stating, “up for swaps”, “free to good home” etc are rising. Frankly, my opinion on the matter is that fish are too cheap. It is just too easy to go out, stock a tank, enjoy it for a week or two before deciding you would like a complete change, barely making a dent on your wallet or morality in the process. So, for those people wanting to break from this vicious cycle of “fishtrading”, what are your options, exactly?

Well, there are actually a lot of large, single specimen animals that might not always command more work but return more on a personal level. These are the fish that are more ‘pet’ than display animal and can make for some really rewarding fish keeping.

Cichlids

Looking back through the ages of fishkeeping, Cichlids have always been traditional “pet-fish”. Early entrants to the hobby included the huge, personable opportunists, the Oscars (Astronotus sp.) as well as the punchy Mbuna of Lake Malawi. Central Americans were not in short supply either, with the prolific Convict Cichlids becoming a household name. These fish are all still popular to this day and with good reason.

Cichlids are amongst the greatest parents of the fish world. Virtually all species care for their eggs and young in some capacity, often in a bi-parental manner. Some species are mouthbrooders, holding both eggs

and fry tightly within the mouth, protecting them from the dangers of the outside world. Others are just downright fierce, fending off anything coming too close to comfort and let me tell you from experience, hands sometimes fall into that category!

But cichlids also carry this elevated level of aquatic intellect into other walks of life too. Feeding, for instance, is diverse. Different species develop different mechanisms, with filter-feeders, sand sifters and even grazers being on the list. I believe that this incredible degree of diversity amongst the group has contributed to the success of cichlids in aquaria.

Oscars (Cichlid)

Oscars are misunderstood. Most would have them down as out and out predatory bully boys. This is not the truth. In the wild it has been recorded that Oscars are incredibly inquisitive species which spend most of their time near the surface searching for invertebrates. They will methodically move and

Oscar Factfile

Astronotus ocellatus

Origin: Widespread across South America

Size: 25-35 cm

Tank: 600 litres +

pick at leaves, branches and rocks, hoping for their next meal. In fact, the same records state that the Oscars never even make an attempt on smaller fish. Could their aggressive, erratic behaviour in captivity be the result of a lack of enrichment? Possibly so.

We recommend a tank of no smaller than 600litres for a single animal. Bump it up to 750 if you want to keep two. Remember,

these are clever fish which need space! Filtration should be strong to compensate for their insatiable appetite and bioload. The pH should be no higher than 7.5 and as with all fish, Ammonia and Nitrite should be 0ppm and Nitrate below 30ppm. Temperature can vary between 24-29c. In terms of feeding, move away from the norm. A diet of gut loaded insects will work well, making sure to mix it up the variety regularly. A formulated cichlid pellet

should be incorporated too, to cover any of the nutrients live food might be missing.

Decorate the tank well with large pieces of wood, tunnels, tubes and rocks. Be careful not to include items which the Oscars can pick up and move though, as it is not unheard of for large cichlids to move substrate and enrichment with such force that panes of glass have been split and shattered!

* Bioload – The amount of Nitrogenous waste produced by a fish.

Red Bellied Piranha (Pygocentrus nattereri)

As members of the Tetra family (Characins), Piranhas are highly gregarious, opportunistic feeders, just as happy to survive on a diet of fins and scales as they are feeding on the flesh of fish and other animals. Large growing (Up to 30cm) and very active, Piranhas require a giant tank to thrive. Aim for over 1000l if you really want to succeed. Unfortunately, the low cost of young fish appeals to many who unfortunately make the mistake of keeping this species. Discus Tetras (Brachycalcinus and Poptella spp.) and Silver Dollars (Metynis spp.) make excellent alternatives if it’s the appearance that attracts you. On the other hand, if the behaviour of Piranha whets your appetite, then the more manageably sized Bucktooth Tetra (Exodon paradoxus) might work.

Pufferfish

Of late, a trend towards freshwater pufferfish has been noted. Attributed to social media and beyond, these fish have received their fair share of blissfully ignorant abuse and poor husbandry. All too often, pufferfish, which are by and large quite specialist in both water quality requirements and feeding needs, are crammed into busy, cosmopolitan community tanks and forced to survive, but never thrive. Tiny Pea Puffers (Carinotetraodon travancoricus and imitator) are what you might consider entry level species, whilst the large Tetraodon spp. such as the Mbu and Fahaka puffers are far more demanding in terms of space needed and care afforded.

Fahaka Puffer

For me, the Fahaka Puffer is the ultimate “pet” pufferfish for the aspiring freshwater keeper.

Known scientifically as Tetraodon lineatus, which translates as roughly “Four-Teeth with lines” (This is in reference to the beak which is composed of four fused teeth, and the lined patterns on the body), the Fahaka puffer can on occasion reach a total length of up to 18 inches! An out and out predator, fish close in size will be targeted and often killed by this biting machine. Interestingly, fast, small fish which are perceived neither as a threat nor a meal will go unnoticed by large Puffers.

The species is intelligent, with many keepers stating that their fish even recognise those who are most likely to provide food. Food itself should come in the form of hard bodied shellfish and crustaceans, as well as fish and pelleted food. As with all species, variety is key, and terrestrial invertebrates such as earthworms and roaches can be used too.

Fahaka Puffer Factfile

Tetraodon lineatus

Origin: Western and Central Africa

Size: Up to 45cm

Tank: 450 litres +

Fighting Fish

Probably the smallest of the pet fish, Siamese Fighting fish pose a very realistic option. Small, manageable sizes with lashings of personality bode well. Put bluntly, many Betta are kept incorrectly in captivity. It is of utmost importance that water quality should be maintained to a high standard. Unfortunately, the innate, naturally forgiving physiology of fighting fish means that they can indeed survive in less than adequate conditions, but perhaps this is not thriving. A tank of at least 30l should be aimed for with gentle filtration, a water temperature between 24-30 degrees Celsius and of course, a very tight-fitting lid. As with most surface-dwelling species, these guys can and will jump, when given even half a chance.

Fighting fish might well lack in stature, but they more than make up for it in character. In fact, some keepers train Fighters to swim or even jump through hoops, with the promise of bloodworm as the reward for successful tricks. Don’t expect them to make ideal

Siamese Fighting Fish Factfile

Betta splendens

Origin: Thailand. Feral in other areas of South East Asia

Size: Up to 8cm

Tank: 30 litres +

community tank candidates. Naturally territorial, male and even female domestic Betta splendens have a penchant for protecting their own patch with a great deal of agression. If you have your heart set on tankmates, larger shrimp species, small species of Plecs such as Bristlenose (Ancistrus spp.) and smaller benthic species such as Kuhli Loach (Pangio semicincta et al.) will work best, providing your tank is big enough.

Snakeheads

Perhaps one of my favourite choices for the keeper of fish with attitude are the Snakeheads. Incredibly poorly misunderstood fish, the genus Channa is a paradox as far as fish go. Snakeheads ignore and actively disregard the rules set down by most fish and their caretakers. They breath air and have no interest in immaculate water conditions. As a matter of fact, water changes would stress some members of the genus out more than dirty water would!

Snakeheads are so called due to the obvious affinity to snakes. Ambush predators too, they are more than happy to hunt other fish, invertebrates, small birds and even mammals. The Giant Snakehead (Channa micropeltes) can grow up to 150cm and weigh nearly 20Kg! This is an animal which is under almost all circumstances, not suitable for captivity and should be left in store tanks when seen on sale. On the other hand, a range of Dwarf species sometimes find their way into the UK trade, including the stunning Rainbow Snakehead (Channa bleheri) of Assam, India.

Rainbow Snakehead

The Rainbow Snakehead tops out at about 16cm and due to its generally sedate lifestyle, a large aquarium is not necessary. Something around 100litres can be considered a minimum, provided the aquarium is wide, as opposed to tall. As pet fish, this can be maintained singularly. The tank

should be gently filtered via an air powered sponge filter for best results. In most homes, heating is not necessary for this species. The diet should be comprised of a mix of live, gut loaded insects as well as a proprietary carnivore pellet. Feeding should be carried out a couple of times a week to avoid obesity. Over the winter months, a period of cooling should be carried out whereby the fish enter a state of semi-hibernation. At this time, feeding should be greatly reduced and perhaps even halted all together. Deprived of this cool spell, Rainbow Snakeheads seldom live past a few years of age, before succumbing to organ failure as a result of accelerated metabolism and obesity.

The tank should be well covered to avoid “carpet surfing” but can be well decorated with live plants and plenty of hiding spaces as well as other aquarium décor. These fish may even appreciate a layer of leaf litter under which they can hide.

Rainbow Snakehead Factfile

Channa bleheri

Origin: India

Size: Up to 17cm

Tank: 100 litres +

Changing attitudes

Hopefully, with more education around the most rewarding pet fish in the hobby, people can make better choices of species which suit them. While there is always a place for display tanks and many keepers are extremely successful

with very complex tanks, this is not for everyone. In the same way that some reptiles are better suited to different keepers, fish have very independent husbandry requirements, personalities, pros and cons that set them aside from their morphological appeal.

Arowana (Scleropages and Osteoglossum spp.)

All species of Arowana are large fish. The most common in the UK is the Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bichirrosum) of South America. Regularly reaching lengths of up to 3ft (90cm), a tank with massive base dimension is a necessity. Something like 8ft x 4ft might suffice, if you are aiming for a minimum. Furthermore, Arowana are typically a fish with a close relation to the surface and the immediate area above the waterline Like Fighting Fish, these are air breathers, but also source much of their nutrition from out of the water. Terrestrial invertebrates which may rest on low hanging branches are fair games, as well as anything else foolish enough to come close to the water. This poses problems for the keeper though, as the fish are prone to jumping from the aquarium and in rare cases, injury from impacting the lid of a wellcovered aquarium.

Of course, if you have the resources and space to house one of the 5 species of Arowana, they can make excellent pets with lots of character.

Fish Are Friends

ALIENS ON OUR DOORSTEP

Shining a light on the strange skin and big eyes of the world’s secret invaders

Cane toad (Rhinella marina)

Invasive species pose a serious threat to the fragile ecosystems of our planet. From escaped pets to government-backed schemes, what may at first appear to be a minor mistake can have grave consequences in the future. There are two amphibian species that go head to head for the title of most impactful on our worlds ecosystems, the American bullfrog (Aquarana catesbeiana) and the cane toad (Rhinella marina).

The story of the cane toad

One of the most famous cases of non-native species that continue to cause devastation to this day, is the cane toad (Rhinella marina). The species was introduced to several countries in the 1930s to control numbers of cane beetles which were eating farmers crops. With almost no understanding of genetics at that time, the choice to introduce these amphibians to new countries soon turned into a major problem.

Gabriel Cohen is a PhD student at the University of Zurich, who dedicated much of his MSc research at Sao Paulo University around invasive species. He explained: “Both bullfrog and cane toad introductions happened in Brazil and Australia at the same time, in 1935. The cane toad was introduced to cane plantations because they wanted a species from the amazon to control the cane beetle populations. The thinking was ‘it comes from a humid area, it’ll survive on the plantations, but they will die if they enter the desert, so the desert will be used as a natural fence.’ What they didn’t know was, based on the tree of life on the Rhinella genus, is that this lineage of toads actually originates from very dry regions in South America. They later colonised the Amazon.”

“They discovered that they have genes that allowed them to survive in very dry places, but these were just inactivated. When they were brought to Australia, these genes were selected back into the population. Now they have colonised much of Eastern and North Australia.”

In regions where the cane toad has spread, significant declines in reptiles and mammals have been reported. The northern quoll (Dasyurus hallacutus), yellow-spotted monitor (Varanus panoptes) and King brown snake (Pseudechis australis) populations have suffered drastically because of predating on the poisonous toads. Saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) populations have risen drastically with fewer monitor lizards to eat the eggs and various skink populations have dipped due to competition with the toads for prey items.

Bullfrogs and cane toads

Although cane toads are often the most ‘talked about’ invasive amphibian, there is a species which has already caused destruction in over 50 countries worldwide. The American bullfrog is considered the most widespread invasive amphibian on the planet and populations have even established themselves here, in the UK. Gabriel’s most recent paper aimed to genetically track the populations of American bullfrogs, to original populations in the USA. By tracking these paths of introduction, Gabriel hopes to identify which international trade routes are having the greatest impact and hopefully advise future imports and exports.

Gabriel told Exotics Keeper Magazine: “The bullfrog was sent to more than 50 countries because people wanted to breed them most commonly for the food market. It was sent to these places because they have

A mass of cane toads (Rhinella marina)

economical value and that’s how they become so ‘invasive’. The cane toad on the other hand, has much more adaptive power which allowed it to colonise new areas. When it comes to ‘most invasive’, it depends how you define invasive species.”

Due to their enormous size, most frog meat we eat across the world has come from American bullfrogs. Whether these are in the form of frog legs in Europe or soups in South Asia, people are estimated to consumer over three billion bullfrogs each year.

“We are still eating bullfrogs” Explained Gabriel. “Some countries are still producing a lot, such as Brazil. Taiwan province is also one of the biggest producers of bullfrogs. In these areas they’re always being accidentally released. I’ve been to many breeders in Brazil and when frogs do escape, they don’t really care about it. We call these ‘feral populations’ and you see them in the places close to where they have escaped. In most cases, they don’t really colonise new areas, they stay close to the insects and small rodents where humans live.”

Many more people are aware of cane toads and their invasive capabilities as being a more considerable threat to wildlife than the bullfrog. However, this is largely due to their toxicity. In Australia, cane toads pose a serious threat to domestic pets so the general public are well-informed on the ecological damage that the species can cause. Although bullfrogs might not possess the same toxins that cane toads have, they do carry something much more dangerous.

Gabriel continued: “Bullfrogs are carriers of Bd or the Chytrid fungus as well as ranavirus. They usually don’t suffer from it, but they do carry it. We can liken this to superbacteria as a result of using too many antibiotics. Bullfrogs

can bring more and more mixed strains of these diseases into the environment which native species can’t cope with.”

“The bullfrog is also ambitious with their feeding. They have been reported to eat swallows whilst they’re flying! They eat small mammals and even small turtles. They cannibalise on other bullfrogs too. Someone at my lab published a paper1 in 2012 after he had this hypothesis that because the bullfrog calls are so high-pitched, they were actually interfering with other species. So, they went to a place in Brazil where there was a population of native frogs with no bullfrogs and a second place where there were bullfrogs. They recorded the calls, then took the recordings to the new location and played it back. Eventually they concluded that the native frogs were actually changing the pitch of their calls, so they didn’t have to compete with the bullfrog calls. It can happen, with time, that this population becomes unable to recognize the original frequency of its species and that can influence speciation. This could eventually create an entirely new species if they cannot recognise the original population’s calls.”

While there are lists of potential damage that could be caused due to new bullfrog populations appearing across the globe, the ‘invasiveness’ of this species is almost entirely driven by human consumption and commercialisation. Whether the frogs have appeared as stowaways in groceries, bred deliberately for food, or sold commercially as tadpoles, human activity is clearly to blame.

Speaking on his upcoming scientific paper, Gabriel told Exotics Keeper Magazine: “The biggest focus in the research is to understand the paths of introduction. We wanted to know how many populations they are

and how they are related to other countries. For example, one of the findings was that the population in Cuba are the same population found in China and most of Asia. Whereas they are very far removed from the populations found in Central and South America, even though geographically, they’re close.”

“One of the main reasons it’s important to know the genetic structure of these populations is so we understand the paths of the transactions we are making now. If one country decides it’s time to control an invasive population, they can identify where they are coming from. Also, even though it has never been tried with bullfrogs, if you know the genetic structure of populations you can help target eradication schemes. This is something that has been very successful with other species. If you know that one cluster has a lot of diversity, but another has very little diversity then you don’t want those clusters to cross ways. Diversity means they are more adaptable. Therefore, if you want to focus on eradicating a population you should focus on the ones that are less variable, so you have a higher chance of getting rid of them.”

Although there are lots of researchers working tirelessly across the globe to help control invasive amphibians, it does seem like an uphill battle. Amphibians are generally prolific breeders. Whilst attempts to remove spawn from waterways may be an effective eradication method in some cases, it is very clear to see how an already adaptable animal with hundreds of offspring could quickly repopulate an area. Hopefully, with greater scientific knowledge and understanding of the grave threat that chytrid poses, restoring our natural ecosystems will soon take precedence over our eating habits and commercial interests.

1. https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/ full/10.1098/rsbl.2012.0412

Aliens On Our Doorstep

Invasive species in the UK

Here, in the UK we also have many invasive species that have managed to form populations within our native ecosystems. We have a handful of populations of American bullfrog as well as various other carriers of the Chytrid fungus which could spell ecological disaster for our own native wildlife. Unfortunately, without a tale of grave significance tied to the escaped pets that now call the UK home, much of the damage caused by these species is generally unrealised.

Jim Foster, Conservation Director at the Amphibian and Reptile Conservation Trust (ARC) told Exotics Keeper Magazine, “it’s probably fair to say the issue with non-native species generally isn’t well understood. There are certain exceptions to that, such as the grey squirrels and red squirrels but looking at other taxa, it is less well-understood that non-native species can have a negative impact on native wildlife. However, one thing we’ve noticed is when you do explain what the issues are, people do pick it up and they do really care.”

“Where we have seen an improvement in the media treatment in the last few years is the reporting of disease. For example, chytridiomycosis and ranavirus have been covered by the media and I

think people know that ranavirus is a threat that’s facing frogs in Britain.”

Of course, the ecological impact of invasive species varies on a case-by-case basis. Whilst Jim suggests that media coverage of non-natives have increased, this does not mean that public understanding will naturally grow alongside it. For many residents in the UK, identifying between a smooth newt ( newt (Ichythosaura alpestris (Rana temporaria ridibundus

Equally, there are instances where a species that has gone extinct in the UK can be reintroduced. ARC’s recent work with the pool frog ( proving to be extremely successful. After this species went extinct in the UK, identifying whether this was a native species created another difficult task.

Jim continued:

species’ is sometimes quite difficult. generally is that if presence has been confirmed since the last ice age, it is counted as native. Some people argue we should go back further to the Pleistocene era but that seems to be quite a marginal view at the moment.”

Pool frog (Pelophylax lessonae)

reptiles and amphibians; our concern is mainly over potential impacts of keeping and trade, but with care this can be managed effectively. Animals can escape and of course there’s an argument there to ensure vivarias are secure to prevent escape but also to prevent incursions. If you’re a zoo or an established collection you probably have much more resources to ensure you have secure vivaria. We have regular reports that exotics have escaped and for many of those that are kept indoors, they won’t last very long if they get out. Now, that’s obviously a welfare concern but the potential to establish a population might be limited.”

For ARC, the major concern is to prevent the spread of disease. Whilst reptile and amphibian enthusiasts might be the first ones out of their seat to jump on board with conservation efforts and actively seek out wild herptiles, they are also more likely to be exposed to diseases harboured in captive collections.

Jim continued: “What native species need generally is more habitat, better habitat and the threats to their populations removed, rather than breeding up and releasing more animals. Breeding up and releasing animals is useful in some circumstances. For example, we have a captive breeding project for sand lizards. However, it’s a carefully managed programme, we only do a few releases each year and we work closely with the landowners to make sure the conditions are correct.”

Does the UK’s cooler temperatures protect our reptiles and amphibians?

MSc Gabriel Jorgewich Cohen: “There are two ways of thinking about the spread of Bd. For example, one thought process is that the cooler temperatures in Europe are slowing the spread of Bd. Another is that the higher biodiversity in tropical areas is meaning it’s affected more species but is actually spreading at a similar rate.”

“One thing that pet owners can do, is just spreading the word. Amphibian and reptile owners are very enthusiastic and just explaining how fantastic it is to see common frogs or common toads in their breeding ponds is great. Encouraging people to go out and look at these wonderful wildlife spectacles is a brilliant way to support. If people specifically want to get involved in the conservation of native species, we offer opportunities for people to get directly involved through our projects. People can also help with monitoring efforts, that’s REALLY useful and it’s something easy for people to get involved with. If people want to go a step further, they can help protect areas that might be under threat by writing to planning authorities. Sadly, that’s still a major issue for many of our species which are threatened by development.”

Woodland creation with biodiverse UK native trees

Our role

There is a whole myriad of ways in which animals can arrive in places that are unsuitable for them. Whether it is a deliberate introduction to tackle an existing problem such as the cane toads, or sheer negligence within a commercial trade like the bullfrogs, understanding the value and potential risks involved with moving live animals is crucial to preventing further damage. As exotics keepers, we play a key role in education, inspiration, and conservation in herpetoculture. Whether it’s a first-time reptile owner showing their friends and family a beloved leopard gecko or a lecturer from one of the worlds top zoos,

we all have a part to play in the spreading of positive and beneficial information. Ensuring that we keep our animals responsibly and teach others to do the same, is crucial to inspiring another generation of conservationists to help the global efforts to save the worlds ecosystems.

We at Exotics Keeper Magazine have joined ARC Trust for a visit to the precious heathlands of the New Forest to inform pet owners how they can go that one step further in reptile conservation on our doorstep. We encourage all readers to keep an eye out on our social media channels for a very special video coming soon!

Bullfrogs in the UK

Jim Foster, Conservation Director at ARC: ““Since the year 2000, there have been three confirmed breeding populations of North American Bullfrogs in England. All of those have been subject to eradication efforts, which is encouraging that the authorities have acted to try to remove those populations and broadly, with some success. Particularly our concern in Britain is disease transmission and the first time Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis (Bd), one of the funguses that causes Chytrid was found in Britain was in a population of North American Bullfrogs on the Kent/Sussex border. Now, we can’t prove for sure that the bullfrogs introduced the pathogens there. It could be that the pathogen was already present in the wild but we do know in other parts of the world that they are a harbinger for Bd.”

“It’s import to Europe now has been banned through legislation. Back in the 90s and early 00s it was still traded and 5-6inch long tadpoles could be bought at garden centres and a year or two later these bullfrogs would emerge. They would mostly die but on rare occasions they could establish populations.”

North american bull frog (Lithobates catesbeianus)

ANIMAL FACTS

Did you know...? Common Hoopoe (Upupa epops)

The H oopoes are migratory birds that can be found across most of Europe, Asia and Africa with around 100 individuals also visiting the south coast of the UK periodically in Spring and Autumn. Their stunning plumage makes them quite the visual spectacle and as such, many people claim they have spotted an exotic bird or escaped pet.

Despite being found across a vast distribution, taxonomists and ornithologists believed there was only one species of hoopoe, Upupa epops for many years. Still today, there are debates whether there are two or three species of this bird. Upupa marginata, the Madagascan hoopoe and Upupa africana, the African hoopoe are currently recognised as separate species to their European/Asian counterpart.

Hoopoes have also been played a central role in many ancient cultures. They were depicted by the ancient Egyptians as a sign that a child belonged to the parent. The hoopoe was also mentioned in the Bible and the Quran and is the national bird of Israel.

Hoopoes are monogamous for the breeding season and fiercely territorial. Their sharp bills are often used in a stabbing motion, with males often blinded in territorial disputes. Nesting females also adapt their uropygial gland to produce a foul-smelling odour similar to rotting flesh in a bid to protect her eggs and hatchlings.

TOP 10

Outdated Husbandry Strategies

This section is for prospective keepers, or those just entering the hobby. Over the decades that reptiles have been kept as household pets, husbandry practices have evolved to be better and more beneficial for our animals. These changes come from scientific research on the natural behaviours of amphibians and reptiles, striving to improve their health, longevity, and welfare.

Here are 10 mistakes, outdated strategies and myths that need to be avoided when you begin to care for your new pet.

1. Not using UVB/excluding nocturnal species

For a long time, many species were not provided UVB lighting, especially those seen as nonbaskers – such as leopard geckos, royal pythons and crested geckos. These animals did get by when the other aspects of their husbandry was alright, especially including the supplementation of vitamin D3 in powdered multivitamins. However, we now know that all reptiles and amphibians benefit from UVB, and many that aren’t diurnal practise “cryptic basking”, exposing a small patch of their body while they hide away to get their beneficial UVB exposure. It has also been recorded that exposure to the correct UVB improves activity by properly cueing circadian rhythm, full spectrum vision, seasonality and more. So don’t skip the UVB, nothing beats the real thing!

2. ‘Belly heat’

Another common one for species like leopard geckos, the belief was that to properly digest, reptiles needed to be heated from below, i.e directly onto the digestive organs. This isn’t the best way to do things, we now know. This is because heat mats that heat from below only provide infra-red C; the lowest energy wavelength.

What this means is it is very inefficient heating the animal, and only at the outer skin layers. Heat in nature comes from above – the sun – and provides IR A, B and C. Infra-red A properly penetrates the deeper tissues, allowing more thorough warming, activating physiological processes efficiently.

3. Enclosure sizes

The minimum recommended sizes for reptile enclosures have gotten bigger, and for good reason. You should provide a generous amount of space for your animal, even for something like a leopard gecko, to keep them active and engaged, as well as importantly, create a proper thermogradient from one end to the other. A small enclosure won’t be able to have a proper range of temperatures from a hot to a cool end. Your animal will use all the space you give them, even if you don’t see this activity at night.

4. Reptiles need baths

Humidity and shedding requirements between reptile species is nuanced and contextual. An unnecessary practise is taking a species such as a leopard gecko or bearded dragon and giving it prescribed ‘baths’ – these can be stressful or cause respiratory infection if the temperatures aren’t right. Species like leopard geckos will utilise an allocated humid hide. Other species naturally experience humidity spikes at certain times of day. Snakes, on the other hand, can benefit from soaking, but this can be accomplished on their own terms by providing them a water source big enough to submerge themselves.

Have patience when it comes to your reptile shedding. Leftover bits will often pull free on their own, and ‘flaky’ shedders like chameleons and beardies just take longer than the all-in-one process of snakes and geckos. Intervene if the shed is stuck for a long time and looks uncomfortable. With the right environmental conditions, there shouldn’t be severe shedding issues.

5. Temperature drops are bad

Reptiles don’t need to be hot 24/7! In nature, the temperature drops at night. Sometimes quite drastically! It is of course important to research the natural environment temperatures tolerated by your species. Turning the heating off at night helps them perceive day and night cycles, and modulates digestion. Seasonal temperature fluctuations are also the cue for many species that indicate breeding periods.

Thermostats with day/night setting options can be used to switch between parameters for safe minimum and maximum temperatures for daytime and night time, ensuring the temperatures will always be safe and appropriate for your species.

6. Reptiles need company

A big misconception is that reptiles feel lonely and need company, and this often leads to bad situations. Of course, reptiles need to encounter each other to breed, but for the vast majority of species this is short lived in a wild setting. Keeping reptiles together can lead to fighting, competition for food and warm spots, and stress overall – not to mention unnecessary breeding. It can even end in the death of one of the animals involved.

Cohabiting can be done, but you have to take into account drastically increasing enclosure dimensions and your plans of action for any offspring produced, or having to separate the animals if they don’t get along. Don’t dive into this until you’re experienced.

7. Loose substrates are dangerous

One of the oldest and most persistent myths, but one that is slowly being driven out during the growth in popularity of the naturalistic, bioactive enclosures. It is certainly possible to cause impaction with an unsuitable substrate

and/or incorrect environmental conditions, but choosing an appropriate and safe loose substrate is perfectly fine for reptiles. It’s even beneficial by allowing them to dig and forage.

8. Not varying the diet

Reptiles and amphibians benefit from varied diets. They should also be gut-loaded (fed a nutritious diet). In the case of snakes, make sure you pick a good quality supplier. Snakes also enjoy variety (different mammals and birds available from most livefood retailers). Livefood such as cockroaches, locusts, crickets, mealworms and waxworms all have different nutrient content which need to be taken into account when forming the staple diet of your animal. When it comes to herbivores, omnivores and frugivores, they also benefit from variety (and limiting the treats!)

9. Not keeping records

Keeping records of your animals’ habits is extremely beneficial, especially if a health problem crops up. Tracking things such as food eaten, weight, defecation, shedding or any strange behaviour will be invaluable to present to a vet. It’s also a green flag when you are buying a reptile and the seller can provide you all the health details running up to your purchase.

10.

Rushing in too fast!

Never take an animal on without the proper research! It can take weeks to plan your enclosure and gather the right components to make the perfect habitat, and this should ideally be up and running well in advance of bringing your animal home, so that they can settle in hassle-free. Some sellers may even vet you on your knowledge and preparedness. It’s also a good idea to identify and get the details of your nearest exotic vet. It’s not uncommon for people to be clueless on where to go to when their animal becomes ill.