Range: Volume 5

By

RETURN TO HAWAI‘I We’re going back — and we’re doing it better

S W I T Z E R L A N D / J A PA N / P E R U / WA L E S / N E W Z E A L A N D

V OL U M E 5

THE SEA IS OUR SOURCE... AND OUR HOME Explora Journeys holds the seas and oceans that sustain our planet in the very highest regard.

We are committed to lessening our environmental impact in profound ways, and, importantly, to constantly evaluating and improving our efforts to do so.

That’s why we aim to lead in the areas of fuel, emissions and noise, through innovation and determination. And it’s in line with our parent company’s pledge to achieve net-zero greenhouse gas emissions in its cruise marine operation by 2050.

The Explora Journeys team looks forward to welcoming guests onboard EXPLORA I, now sailing!

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.

FEATURED JOURNEYS All journeys include access to sophisticated, varied experiences across 18 venues, including six restaurants, five lounges and in-suite dining, unlimited beverages, fine wines, premium spirits, a welcome bottle of champagne, access to the spa thermal, complimentary Wi Fi, on board gratuities and more.*

Spotlight Journeys

An Extended Journey of Romance and Ruins JULY 26 - AUGUST 9, 2024 7 NIGHTS | EXPLORA I LINDOS (RHODES), GREECE

FUSINA VENICE

ROVINJ

CROATIA ZADAR

ITALY

DUBROVNIK

ISTANBUL

GREECE TÜRKIYE PIRAEUS ATHENS

FISKARDO KEFALONIA

PATMOS BODRUM RHODES

PAROS KATAPOLA AMORGOS

ISTANBUL - OVERNIGHT • BODRUM • RHODES • KATAPOLA (AMORGOS) • PAROS • PIRAEUS (ATHENS) • PATMOS • FISKARDO (KEFALONIA) • DUBROVNIK • ZADAR • ROVINJ • FUSINA (VENICE)

Ocean Suites fares from USD 9,900 pp • Solo Ocean Suites fares from USD 17,300 pp

A Journey from Barcelona to Rome

A Journey from Athens to Barcelona

7 NIGHTS | EXPLORA II

10 NIGHTS | EXPLORA I

BARCELONA, SPAIN

EMBARKATION

CIVITAVECCHIA (ROME), ITALY

DISEMBARKATION

ATHENS (PIRAEUS), GREECE

EMBARKATION

DISEMBARKATION

SEPTEMBER 9, 2024

SEPTEMBER 16, 2024

OCTOBER 31, 2024

NOVEMBER 10, 2024

BARCELONA, SPAIN

PORTOFINO

MONACO

MONTE CARLO

ITALY

MONACO

FRANCE

MONTE CARLO

MARSEILLE

CALVI CORSICA

FRANCE

SPAIN

PORTO SANTO STEFANO ARGENTARIO CIVITAVECCHIA ROME

SPAIN BARCELONA

LIVORNO FLORENCE

ITALY CIVITAVECCHIA ROME

BARCELONA

GREECE PIRAEUS ATHENS

LA VALLETTA

MALTA

IBIZA

BALEARIC ISLANDS

Ocean Suites fares from USD 5,250 pp

HERAKLION CRETE

Ocean Suites fares from USD 6,400 pp

Fares are cruise only, per person; subject to availability and subject to change. Terms & Conditions apply. *Experience fee applicable to two venues

What’s Inside

9

From our Editorial Director

10

Contributors

In Brief

13 What’s new and notable in the world of travel.

Will Travel For

19 Pancakes three ways, from Indonesia to Austria.

Packing List

20 Sustainable travel essentials to bring on your next trip.

Range x Holland America Line

22 How chef Masaharu Morimoto is transforming seafood at sea.

Viewpoint

On the Cover A woman from Waimea, Hawai‘i, paddles a wa‘a (canoe) on the serene waters surrounding Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau — a National Historical Park and ancient ceremonial site.

Photo by Ricky-Thomas Serikawa

4

26 Restoring the world’s reefs at a coral farm in the Bahamas.

Interview

28 We catch up with photographer and activist Giles Duley.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

PHOTOS: MARCO BOTTIGELLI/GETTY IMAGES; HARRY LEE FOR CORAL VITA (GOING PLACES).

Going Places

PHOTOS: BEN SKLAR (FEATURES); JEREMY ALFORD/UNSPLASH (WHERE NEXT).

Features

Where Next

Hawai‘i Revisited

32 From its white-sand beaches to its misty volcanic mountains, the future of this one-of a-kind archipelago is up to all of us.

A Taste of the Sacred Valley

42 Photographer Ben Sklar captures a dining experience at great heights in Peru’s Andes Mountains.

Travel Like the Swiss

50 What does a destination committed to sustainability look like?

We train-hop through Switzerland to find out.

Unlocking Seaweed’s Secrets

58 Meet the community harnessing seaweed’s salty superpowers on Wales’ west coast.

A Perfect Day In

68 Escape to desert landscapes, immerse yourself in architectural marvels and savor scorpion lollipops in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Ask a Local

74 New Zealand expert Sarah Farag shares the country’s best wildlife-spotting destinations.

Port of Call

76 Everything you need to know to plan your pre- or post-cruise stay in Tokyo.

Outtake

82 One more moment in travel.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

5

EDITORIAL Editorial Director

Sydney Loney Executive Editor

Dominique Lamberton

RESEARCHERS Amanda Ghazale Aziz, Corinna Reeves

Contributing Editor

Andrew Elkin Editorial Assistant

Aimi Mayne ART Design Director

Stefanie Sosiak Photo Editor

Lori Morgan CONTRIBUTORS Oliver Berry, Danielle Groen, Jessica Huras, Lisa Kadane, Dave Lank, John Laurie, Claire McCracken, Ricky-Thomas Serikawa, Claire Sibonney, Ben Sklar, Caitlin Stall-Paquet

Publisher

Jeff Willner COPY EDITORS Christopher Korchin, Robert Ronald

Senior Editor

Brett Walther

2 QUEEN STREET EAST 2 0 TH F L O O R TORONTO, ON M5C 2G7

PROOFREADER Diane Carlson PRODUCTION Director of Marketing & Delivery

President

Michael Johnson SVP, Marketing

Shahla Lalani SVP, Operations

Kristina Boyce SVP, Partner Relations

Valerie Lenoir

Beth Butzlaff

Printer

VP, Destination & Specialty

Mi5

Ian Elliott VP, Business Development

SALES Senior Director, Partner Relations (Cruise)

Rachel Grogan

Shelly Ransom VP, Member Relations

Mark Stubbert

rachel.grogan@ensembletravel.com

Director, Partnership Marketing (Land)

Franca Iuele franca.iuele@ensembletravel.com

Director, Partnership Marketing (Hotel)

Danielle Clement danielle.clement@ensembletravel.com

What is Ensemble?

Ensemble is a leading travel organization comprised of top-tier travel agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada. As a valued client of one of our member agencies, you gain access to exclusive perks, amenities and experiences as well as expert advice and exceptional customer service from the foremost authorities in the travel industry. ensembletravel.com

Range (Volume 5). All rights reserved, Ensemble Travel® Group.

Sustainable Practices Range is printed and distributed with Mi5 Print and Digital, a sustainable business partner and Earth-friendly printing company. Range is printed on Inspira text and cover and is a 100-percent sustainable sourced product. All fiber is sourced under a zero-deforestation commitment, produced using materials from rapidly renewable tree plantations. Inspira is fully PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification, one of the world’s largest forest certification systems) chain of custody-certified.

No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise duplicated without the permission of the publisher. Range is published on behalf of Ensemble Travel® Group member agencies.

TICO: #50022140 | CST: 2141530-70 Registration numbers vary by agency.

Advertising and marketing inquiries can be sent to marketing@ensembletravel.com.

For editorial inquiries, please email editor@ensembletravel.ca.

6

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

Positano, Italy

The sense of warmth and camaraderie from dedicated staff.

The thrill of becoming awestruck as you arrive at a fabled destination for the first time.

The joy of celebrating life, with indulgent cuisine.

THE FINEST CUISINE AT SEA® C U R AT E D T R AV E L E X PE R I E N C E S .

S M A L L S H I P LUXU RY.

It’s the personal experiences that will last a lifetime.

CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TR AVEL ADVISOR TO BOOK TODAY

PHOTO: KATHERINE HOLLAND.

Find a Forest My first visit to a new city is like turning to the first page of a book I’ve heard a lot about but haven’t yet had a chance to read. I have no idea what’s about to happen, or what I might discover. It’s the best feeling.

Often, I arrive in a new city at night and try to make sense of it, through its silhouettes and shadows, during the taxi ride from airport to hotel. The next morning, I’ll lace up my sneakers and go for a run (okay, a light jog) through the unfamiliar streets. It’s my favorite way to explore — and I inevitably gravitate toward green.

There’s something about happening upon a fresh urban green space that makes you feel as though you’ve received an unexpected gift, a moment of reprieve from the hard surfaces of concrete and stone. Best of all are the trees.

Scientists say spending time with trees reduces your stress, improves your mood and lowers your blood pressure. Urban forests do all that and more. On the health front, a new study from researchers in Portland, Oregon, found increasing the number of trees in cities may even help people live longer. And, when it comes to climate change, urban forests absorb 45 million tons of carbon dioxide every year in the U.S. alone — enough to offset 10 million cars.

Lucky for us travelers, there are organizations dedicated to installing urban forests all over the world. One of them is SUGi, a Swiss-based social enterprise that has planted 184 forests in 40 cities, from Santiago to Glasgow (you can read about each forest, and plan your visit, with the interactive map on the project’s website).

The forests are built using the Miyawaki method, which involves planting biodiverse native species close together so they grow fast and can be maintenance-free after two to three years. Travelers can even participate in establishing these urban pocket forests, says ecologist Grey Coupland, one of SUGi’s “forest makers,” based in Perth, Australia. She recommends contacting forest-making NGOs to see if any activities, from planting to maintenance, coincide with your travel dates. “There is something very special about tending an urban forest, knowing your actions will help it thrive.”

One of Coupland’s favorite Miyawaki forests is in Hadano, Japan, at the Izumo Taisha Sagamibunshi shrine. The forest is only 16 years old, she says, but it looks like it has been there for hundreds of years. “The shrine is peaceful, surrounded by the forest, with the sound of flowing water and birds calling in the trees. It’s truly a spectacular place to visit.”

Coupland says it’s important not to overlook the green spaces that can be found in urban areas during your travels. (One of my own favorites is Mexico City’s glorious Chapultepec Park, home to 166 species of trees, including centuries-old ahuehuete trees planted by Aztecs.) “There’s an unexpected wonder in discovering natural settings in cities,” Coupland says. “You can just go sit and watch a forest, enjoying the beauty of the trees.”

So maybe, when you arrive in a new city, forget about the shops and the cafés and the galleries — and go find yourself a forest. 

Sydney Loney Editorial Director

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

Have you discovered a favorite urban forest in your travels?

Please share it with me at editor@ensembletravel.ca.

9

Ben Sklar

Claire Sibonney

Hometown Austin

Hometown and home base Toronto

P H OTO G R A P H E R

Home base New York The place I can return to again and again is Japan. It’s an amazing country with a tremendous amount of care and respect for its culture, and the food is outstanding. I’d like to go back as soon as possible.

When I’m not shooting for Range, I make art books of photography, write and put on exhibits of my work.

I collaborate with a variety of publications, but self-expression through photography is my motivation.

A Taste of the Sacred Valley — page 42

WRITER

Ricky-Thomas Serikawa P H OTO G R A P H E R

Hometown and home base Honolulu My favorite travel companions are my wife and son, for all the reasons you can think of. I can’t imagine anything more fulfilling and enjoyable — every single moment with them is memorable and golden.

When I’m not shooting for Range, I work on creative projects that help shine a light on my community’s culture, connection and humanity through visual storytelling. Over the past year, I’ve worked with environmental non-profits, local brands and publications, including Hana Hou!, Hawaiian Airlines’ inflight magazine.

Hawai‘i Revisited — page 32

10

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

One of my top travel memories is from my recent trip to Peru, where I rode the Belmond Hiram Bingham, a luxury 1920s-style train that slowly winds from Cusco to the tropical Urubamba River valley. It’s an unexpected voyage through space and time, made even lovelier by the Indigenous ceremony, live music and open bar — pisco sours all around.

When I’m not writing for Range, I’m wrangling two kids and a Texan rescue dog, and working on travel, health, science and lifestyle stories for publications that include National Geographic, WIRED and Teen Vogue.

A Taste of the Sacred Valley — page 42

PHOTOS: JOSH WOOL (BEN SKLAR); KAINANI SERIKAWA (RICKY-THOMAS SERIKAWA); CLAIRE SIBONNEY (CLAIRE SIBONNEY).

Contributors

It’s our mission to elevate each experience beyond ordinary.

We do that by creating degrees of difference, both big and small, during every voyage to Europe, Tahiti, the Caribbean, Costa Rica & Panama Canal, Latin America, and more. From our small ships and curated excursions to learn more about local life to the thoughtful details from our welcoming crew, Windstar puts more into every voyage.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

EP

HES

US, T

URKEY

CELEBRITY CRUISES SETS SAIL FOR SUSTAINABLE LUXURY IN THE GALAPAGOS In the heart of the awe-inspiring Galapagos Islands, Celebrity Cruises is more than a mere explorer; it is a committed steward of its preservation. Partnering with world-renowned scientists, passionate environmentalists, and acclaimed marine researchers, our goal is to offer experiences that are enlightening, authentic, and distinctive.

SCALESIA REFORESTATION PROJECT

THE GALAPAGOS FUND

Since 2014, we’ve been fervently dedicated to preserving the Galapagos environment. In collaboration with the Galapagos National Park, over 70,000 endemic seedlings have been planted by our guests, supporting the Scalesia reforestation effort.

Celebrity Cruises is the exclusive partner undertaking this effort and provides the necessary resources to maintain over 55 acres, ensuring the longevity of these efforts. Witness the magic unfold as restored areas now host sightings of endangered bird species, including the vibrant vermillion flycatchers.

In 2006, we, together with the Galapagos Conservancy, established the Galapagos Celebrity Fund. Over $1.5 million contributed by Celebrity guests has fueled projects benefiting both marine and terrestrial flora and fauna. This fund has supported over 60 community initiatives that link the security of the local economy with the protection of archipelago. From supporting an art gallery for special needs children empowering women’s entrepreneurship, every dollar has left a lasting impact on the region.

CELEBRITY FLORA AN ECO-LUXURY PIONEER IN THE GALAPAGOS Celebrity Flora, the first ship of its size designed specifically for the Galapagos Islands, embodies our commitment to sustainability. Her advanced propulsion system and hull design contribute to a 15% reduction in fuel consumption and air emissions; Each suite features a water filtration system, eliminating single-use plastics; Reverse osmosis processes seawater for the ship’s water needs.

Through its advanced design, careful use of materials and reduction of waste, this ship is one of the most environmentally friendly in the world today.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

©2024 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships’ registry: Malta and Ecuador.

TEXT: AIMI MAYNE. PHOTO: ZACH ZIMET/ISTOCK PHOTO.

GOING PLACES

ON TREND

Tour on Two Wheels Cycling rather than driving just once a day can reduce your transportation-related carbon emissions by up to 67 percent — and new bike routes make it easy to pedal your way through stunning destinations. In south Scotland, the 250-mile Kirkpatrick C2C links the west-coast town of Stranraer to Eyemouth on the east coast, passing by breathtaking coastlines, glistening lochs, the medieval ruins of Dryburgh Abbey and Scotland’s textile hub, Hawick. And in Sweden, a newly opened 125-mile trail along the Göta Canal makes for a leisurely ride on a car-free towpath, with plenty of opportunities to fika — the Swedish custom of enjoying coffee and a sweet pastry with friends.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

13

—

IN BRIEF

BEFORE YOU BOOK

Track Your Impact Thanks to Intrepid Travel’s new carbon labels, you can make a mindful decision when booking your next trip. The company has added emissions information to more than 500 itineraries, including its top 100 trips, disclosing the footprint of each tour. The eight-day Galapagos Island Hopping adventure generates the equivalent of 37 kg of CO2 per person per day, for example, while 22-day South East Asia Uncovered produces 52.12 kg per day. And, as a carbon-neutral business, Intrepid offsets all emissions on behalf of travelers — it’s just one of the ways the climateconscious company is taking action to reach net-zero emissions before 2050.

MUST-HAVE

A Perfect Use for Plastic What’s behind this spinner’s eye-catching icy blue color?

Water-cooler jugs! Sustainable luggage brand Paravel has rolled out the world’s first wheeled suitcase set made from 100-percent recycled polycarbonate shells, which retain their water-cooler hue due to the purity of the material. The limited-edition Aviator100 Set Plus comes with two suitcases — the Grand for your checked belongings and the Carry-On Plus for the cabin — both outfitted with even more recycled features, from zippers to telescopic handles made from aircraft-grade aluminum.

Aviator100 Set Plus, US$1,125, tourparavel.com

14

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON (BEFORE YOU BOOK); AIMI MAYNE (MUST-HAVE). PHOTOS: RIAHJAYE FOR INTREPID TRAVEL (BEFORE YOU BOOK); COURTESY OF PARAVEL (MUST-HAVE).

GOING PLACES

GOING PLACES

—

IN BRIEF

CRUISE NEWS

TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON (CRUISE NEWS; DREAM DESTINATIONS); AIMI MAYNE (BAR HOPPING). PHOTOS: MARCO BOTTIGELLI/GETTY IMAGES (CRUISE NEWS); COURTESY OF PAVILION BOOKS (DREAM DESTINATIONS); VERONICA DI PIETRANTONIO FOR VIAJANTE87 (BAR HOPPING).

Ports Less Traveled Thirty stops. Fifty-nine days. Three continents. Oceania Cruises’ new itinerary, A Tale of Five Seas, begins in Barcelona and sails along both coasts of Africa before heading to Asia for its terminus in Singapore. Along the way, discover off-the-beaten-path ports, including the lush, laid-back city of São Tomé, Ghanian twin cities Sekondi-Takoradi, and Walvis Bay, Namibia, with its sprawling coastal dunes.

DREAM DESTINATIONS

Journey by Brushstroke British visual artist SJ Axelby is known for her whimsical watercolor paintings of interiors, but her new book trades homes for travel hot spots. Featuring 60 international destinations handpicked and painted by Axelby, this coffee-table tome is a guide to must-see places, including GoldenEye, Ian Fleming’s Jamaican estate where he wrote all his James Bond books, fantastical London dining room Sketch, and Populart, a longtime Seville antiques shop known for its azulejos (tiles).

Painted Travels: Portraits of Remarkable Places, US$40 harpercollins.com

BAR HOPPING

Grab a Stool at These Sustainable Bars Viajante87, London This Notting Hill bar’s innovative mixology lab uses leftovers from sister restaurant Los Mochis to create zero-waste cocktails, including the vodka-based Mango Zapoteca that’s infused with mango skins.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

FURA, Singapore At their pioneering gastrobar, Christina Rasmussen and Sasha Wijidessa use ingredients made from invasive species, like jellyfish, featured in a gin martini with fish leaf, spirulina, kombu oil and dry vermouth.

RE, Sydney One of the world’s most sustainable bars was built from waste and its mixologists find ways to serve it, too.

Try the Spring Negroni that stars whey wine made using discards from the ricottamaking process.

15

GOING PLACES

—

IN BRIEF

IN THE AIR

New Fuel for Flights

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

AI Reduces Hotel Food Waste Hospitality group Accor is tapping artificial intelligence technology to measure — and cut down on — food waste at its properties. (On average, nearly 20 tons of food waste is produced per hotel every year, making up about 43 percent of a hotel’s total waste.) By partnering with AI start-ups to scan surplus food, and using Gaïa, the group’s online reporting tool, to measure waste, Accor intends to beat its target for a 50-percent reduction in food waste across its 5,500 properties by 2030.

LOCAL LINGO

Flâner (v.) If you’re ambling through a city without a destination in mind, you are enjoying a pastime the French have a dedicated word for: flâner. To flâner may mean to stroll aimlessly, but the walk is not without purpose, as it’s all about taking in your surroundings and contemplating your place within them. On your next trip to Paris, simply pick one of the city’s 20 arrondissements and start roaming.

16

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

TEXT: AIMI MAYNE (IN THE AIR; NEW & NOTEWORTHY); DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON (LOCAL LINGO). PHOTOS: COURTESY OF EMIRATES (IN THE AIR); COURTESY OF ACCOR/MERCURE MELBOURNE DONCASTER (NEW & NOTEWORTHY); SEAN DE BURCA/GETTY IMAGES (LOCAL LINGO).

Emirates is reaching greener altitudes: The airline recently became the first to test Sustainable Aviation Fuel (SAF), a waste-derived alternative that reduces up to 80 percent of CO2 emissions compared to traditional jet fuel. After a successful test flight in 2023, the carrier plans to use three million gallons of blended SAF over the next two years for departures from Amsterdam and Singapore.

Now we’re

Following The Sun Exclusively adult, award-winning cruises from Virgin.

Explore and indulge in all that our stunning lady ships and epic itineraries have to offer. Virgin Voyages’ Always Luxury Included means 20+ unique eateries, essential drinks, WiFi, gratuities, and unlimited group fitness classes always come with the cost of the voyage. It’s no surprise that we’ve been awarded Cruise Critic’s Best Overall Cruise Line, Best Cabins, Best Dining, and Best Service (to name just a few!)

Marseille

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.

Best Overall Cruise Line

Best Dining

Best Cabins

Best Service

Best ValueFor-Money

2023. Travel + Leisure® is a registered trademark of Travel + Leisure Holdco, LLC, a subsidiary of Wyndham Destinations, Inc. Travel + Leisure® World’s Best Awards is used under license.

Travel + Leisure® is published by TI Inc. Affluent Media Group, a Dotdash Meredith company, which is not affiliated with Wyndham Destinations, Inc. or its subsidiaries.

©

#1 Oceans

#1 Expeditions

#1 Rivers

Onwards.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

GOING PLACES

—

WILL TRAVEL FOR

Pancakes A versatile canvas for sweet or savory flavors, pancakes are beloved all over at breakfast (or anytime). Here are three versions to try on your travels.

B y J e s s i c a H u ra s

AUSTRIA

PHOTOS: IKA RAHMA/ADOBE STOCK (SERABI); WIRESTOCK/GETTY IMAGES (KAISERSCHMARREN); TRAVEL MAN/ADOBE STOCK (BANANA ROTI).

Kaiserschmarren This chopped pancake’s name means “Emperor’s mess,” hinting at its origins as a favorite dessert of 19th-century emperor Franz Joseph. Shredding the flapjack with a pair of forks as it fries gives Kaiserschmarren its irresistible caramelized edges, perfect for dipping into applesauce. Where to try it: Long-time Vienna restaurant Heindl’s Schmarren & Palatschinkenkuchl uses Austrian-sourced ingredients (like freerange eggs and Viennese sugar) in its traditional Kaiserschmarren.

THAILAND

Banana roti INDONESIA

Serabi Indonesian street vendors make these small, delicately sweet pancakes as an anytime snack. The dish is traditionally prepared with a rice-flour and coconut batter that’s fried in clay cookware over a charcoal fire. With its earthy vanilla flavor, pandan (a plant with aromatic leaves used widely in Southeast Asian cuisines) is a popular addition and lends the pancakes a bright green hue, while kinca, a syrup made from coconut milk and palm sugar, is a go-to topping.

Where to try it: No-frills spot Serabi Notosuman Ny. Lidia in the city of Surakarta serves up delightful serabi with crispy edges and slightly undercooked centers.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

A ubiquitous treat served from street stalls across Thailand, banana roti is reminiscent of a sweet, filled crepe.

Ultra-thin batter is fried and folded over banana slices on a griddle, then the package is drizzled with condensed milk or chocolate sauce (or better yet, both) and cut into squares for on-the-go snacking. Where to try it: Nibble on roti as you stroll the Chiang Mai Sunday Night Market, one of the country’s most celebrated night bazaars.

19

GOING PLACES

—

PACKING LIST

Eco-friendly Essentials

Reusable Rounds

Recycled Wrap

Zero-waste Shampoo

This set of 15 makeup rounds made from organic cotton should see you through a trip, but you can also pop them in their mesh bag and toss them in the wash anytime you’re running low.

With this large, luxurious scarf, woven in Italy from recycled cashmere, you’ll be chic and warm from plane to piazza.

Make the swap to solid shampoo and you’ll get up to 75 washes out of one of these all-natural citrus-scented bars, and prevent three plastic bottles from entering the waste stream.

Dry/Curly Hair Shampoo Bar US$20, hellogoodjuju.com

Reusable Cotton Rounds US$28, freoncollective.ca

20

Recycled Cashmere Scarf US$198, cuyana.com

Eco Suds

Feel-good Kicks

Tough Tote

Packaged in a recycled — and recyclable — aluminum tube (in a carryon-friendly size), this concentrated shower cream produces 62 percent less waste than traditional water-filled body wash bottled in plastic.

The Body Wash Concentrate US$28, helloeverist.com

With a focus on ecological and social impact, Vega purchases the organic raw materials for its sneakers (available in styles for men, women and kids) directly from fair-trade producers in Peru and Brazil.

URCA CWL White Nautico US$180, vega-store.com

More than 90 percent of this roomy bag from Swiss brand Freitag is made from recycled materials, including truck tarps, car seatbelts and postconsumer PET bottles.

F203 BOB, US$280 freitag.ch

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON.

Fill your suitcase with these smart, easy-on-the-Earth travel finds.

GOING PLACES

—

PACKING LIST

Sustainable Umbrella Forecast calling for rain? Duck under this sturdy, suitcase-friendly brolly with a sustainably sourced birchwood handle and canopy made of recycled plastic bottles.

Peanut Butter Checkers Umbrella, US$42 originalduckhead.com

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

21

RANGE × HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

Fresh From the Sea

Come aboard Holland America Line to see how celebrity chef Masaharu Morimoto is charting new waters in responsible fine dining.

By Caitlin Stall-Paquet

22

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

RANGE × HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

T

hough the Iron Chef became the Fresh Fish Ambassador for Holland America Line in 2023, Masaharu Morimoto’s career started on a baseball diamond and had nothing to do with the sea — or with seafood. Growing up in Hiroshima, Morimoto was a promising catcher until an injury put an end to his dream of making it to the big leagues. “When I injured my shoulder early on in my career, I turned to sushi,” he says. “It has always evoked very special food memories for me.”

Morimoto began studying the culinary art of sushi-making and opened his first restaurant in his hometown when he was 24. After moving to the United States, he was recruited for the original Nobu restaurant in New York, where he would ultimately serve as executive chef. By 2005, he’d become a familiar face on television as one of the stars of the Food Network’s Iron Chef America. A slew of 19 international restaurants followed and his name is now also proudly displayed on a premium sake line, among other products — from single-malt whiskey to dishware and instant ramen.

In his latest endeavor, the celebrated chef is taking his talents into the maritime realm. He says teaming up with Holland America Line’s Global Fresh Fish Program, a first-of-its-kind initiative that makes responsible-sourcing a top priority, was a perfect

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

ABOVE Masaharu Morimoto shares his passion for sushi with Holland America Line’s chefs.

OPPOSITE PAGE Through the Global Fresh Fish Program, chefs have access to 80 species of responsibly sourced fish and seafood.

23

RANGE × HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

fit. “We both share a passion for fresh, regionally inspired food,” Morimoto says.

To feature the best — and freshest — seafood our oceans have to offer, the Holland America Line culinary team has built a network through which it sources 80 species of fish and seafood from 60 ports worldwide. “We communicated to our fishmongers and suppliers that our priority is to receive fresh and responsibly sourced seafood,” says Michael Stendebach, the vice-president of the Food, Beverage and Rooms division.

The new initiative helmed by Morimoto is a leveling-up of Holland America Line’s 2022 Responsible Fisheries Management certification, which the cruise line earned by serving only fresh, certified sustainable and traceable wild Alaska seafood on sailings to the northern state. It’s all about supply transparency, Stendebach says. “The Chain of Custody program assures guests that their seafood is legally harvested, obtained from responsibly managed, certified sustainable fisheries, and can be traced back to its origin.”

In addition to being environmentally responsible, Morimoto says sourcing fresh local fish at each port of call has allowed him to be more creative, exploring regional specialties and pairing them with his own food traditions. “I believe in pushing culinary boundaries and introducing guests to new and exciting flavors,” he says. “These ingredients allow

24

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT Holland America Line Main Dining Room menus will feature a number of Morimoto’s signature dishes, available for a supplemental charge; in 2022, the cruise line earned certification from Responsible Fisheries Management for serving 100-percent sustainable seafood on Alaska sailings.

On the Menu: Three Highlights from the Global Fresh Fish Program POLISH E D RICE While you may think fish is the main star of sushi, rice is a crucial building block that provides balance. Chef Morimoto’s sushi rice is polished by hand onboard and seasoned with Japanese rice vinegar.

SAKE JUNMAI MORIMOTO

SAVOR MY C ATCH On Holland America Line’s Alaska cruises, the Savor My Catch experience gives guests the chance to line-catch their own fish and have it prepared by onboard chefs.

RANGE × HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

Brewed in partnership with the historic Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery founded in 1625, this beverage combines tradition with delicately fragrant aromas that pair perfectly with sushi and sashimi. The drink’s top-shelf quality is partially due to the fact it’s made from rare Yamadanishiki and Kinmonnishiki rice.

me to create unique dishes that showcase the flavors of the ocean while highlighting the beauty and simplicity of Japanese cuisine.” Some of the innovations he’s cooked up onboard include yuzu black cod with yogurt-miso pickled vegetables and kimchi eggplant, and halibut with Asian vegetables, dried shrimp and scallop XO sauce.

But there are things you won’t find on Morimoto’s menus, says executive chef Ming Wong, and that includes any species that have been overfished, such as king crab. Wong says she has learned a lot working alongside Morimoto, especially when it comes to cleaning, storing and curing fresh fish. “I’ve also learned that sushi has no rules.” When pressed, Wong says her top pick from the menu is the crispy fried whole market-fresh fish with sweet-spicy chili sauce and pickled veggies. “It’s a wow dish!”

Morimoto, Wong and the entire Holland America Line culinary team are always on the lookout for new flavors to experiment with, whether it’s from the Port to Plate experience showcasing local ingredients or the new Global Fresh Fish Program’s responsibly sourced seafood. “By encouraging guests to discover and appreciate these ingredients, we open their palates to a world of possibilities and expand their culinary horizons,” Morimoto says. 

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

25

—

VIEWPOINT

PHOTO: HARRY LEE FOR CORAL VITA.

GOING PLACES

26

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

GOING PLACES

—

VIEWPOINT

Reef Rescue How witnessing state-of-the-art reef restoration in the Bahamas turned writer Lisa Kadane’s family into keen coral champions.

P

eering over the side of a shallow saltwater tank, my teenage son inspects tiny prongs of elkhorn coral growing on small round plugs. There must be hundreds of them, lined up in tidy underwater rows like veggies in a bed of soil. Nearby, a coral technician takes thin slices from a larger coral, then uses a marine epoxy to attach them to new plugs next to their wee elkhorn cousins.

When these baby corals are big enough, they’ll be planted out in nearby reefs.

On a recent trip to Grand Bahama Island, my family had a chance to see innovative coral farming in action at Coral Vita, the Bahamas’ first coral farm. Since our kids were small, we’ve visited tropical destinations to snorkel, marveling at walls of healthy elkhorn and finger coral in Belize, and clumps of brain coral teeming with fish in St. Lucia.

But we’ve also floated over deserts of bleached or damaged corals elsewhere in the Caribbean, where an estimated 60 to 80 percent of corals are dead.

From the educational displays at Coral Vita, we learn that, worldwide, 50 percent of coral reefs have died since the 1970s, and more than 90 percent are expected to perish by 2050, mainly due to warming oceans and water acidification that can cause mass

Three Ways to Help Coral Reefs

bleaching of corals. Hurricanes, unfettered coastal development, overfishing and human carelessness (such as swimmers standing on reefs) also harm corals.

While it’s heartbreaking to read about the plight of these biodiverse ecosystems that support a quarter of all marine life, it’s heartening to see firsthand what’s being done to help them on this 2.5-acre farm in Freeport, which grows 17 native coral species. Since 2021, Coral Vita has watched the fish population at its Rainbow Reef restoration site nearly double, including parrotfish that are important for reef health. In the long term, reef restoration supports coastal communities that rely on reefs for fisheries and tourism, as well as to act as natural wave and storm buffers.

Our tour guide, operations manager Veronica Cuccurullo, explains how Coral Vita’s land-based farming technique grows coral up to 50 times faster than it would grow in the ocean. The coral cutting and pasting we witness is called microfragmenting — placing those tiny pieces, or “frags,” of like corals in close proximity triggers them to grow quickly, like scar tissue forming over a wound.

The coral is also climate change-resilient because Coral Vita uses hardier native species found in Grand Bahama’s reefs and canals,

BE M INDFUL Choose tour operators committed to sustainability for your snorkeling and diving trips, watch where you step and stand, and use a reef-safe mineral sunscreen.

which have evolved to live in warmer waters than the ocean. Growing these tougher corals in tanks on land allows the team to adjust the water quality and temperature to reflect projections for future ocean conditions as the corals grow, which further fortifies them for life in the wild. “These ‘assisted evolution’ techniques can lead to higher survivorship of corals once they’ve been planted back out in the reefs,” says Cuccurullo.

We don’t get to see coral outplanting in action, but a tank display shows us what to look for in a healthy reef: vibrant, colorful corals, a high diversity and density of reef fish, and crystal-clear water.

After our visit, my daughter and I head out to snorkel off Fortuna Beach. Fringed by swaying palms, the white, powder-soft sand stretches for more than half a mile, abutting calm, shallow water that entices swimmers and snorkelers with endless shades of blue. After kicking out from shore, we quickly spot rainbow wrasse and yellow tangs swimming near healthy brain and finger coral, much larger than the babies we saw at Coral Vita. We drift above the happy scene, feeling protective of — and rooting for — this small, healthy ecosystem that’s thriving against the odds. 

ADOP T A CORAL With Coral Vita’s adoption program, you choose the size of coral to sponsor and the farm keeps you updated at each stage of the growth and outplanting process.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

DIVE IN Go on a guided snorkeling or freediving adventure with the Reef Rescue Network to explore coral restoration sites throughout the Caribbean.

27

—

INTERVIEW

PHOTO: YZZA SLAOUI.

GOING PLACES

28

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

GOING PLACES

—

INTERVIEW

Giles Duley The U.K.-based photographer and activist shares what it’s like to document war, why his own injuries only fueled his passion, and how he breaks down barriers — with Italian food.

By Danielle Groen

O

n a cold February morning in 2011, while embedded in Afghanistan with American troops, photographer Giles Duley stepped on an IED that would take both his legs and left arm. Over the next year in hospital, and through 37 operations, Duley fixated on what he knew he most needed: to get back to work.

“I hadn’t lost my passion,” he says. “I hadn’t lost my purpose.”

Eighteen months after his accident, Duley returned to a Kabul ER, documenting civilians caught in the conflict. He’s since worked in places like Gaza, South Sudan and Iraq, and says what he’s lost in mobility, he’s gained in empathy: “I focus on what I can control, and that’s my connection with the people I’m photographing.” He’s the first United Nations Global Advocate for persons with disabilities in conflict and peace-building situations, and, in 2017, he started Legacy of War Foundation, which works alongside groups affected by conflict worldwide to help them rebuild their lives. “In the same way I wanted to document the impact of war as a photographer,” he says, “I wanted to set up projects that had a legacy.”

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

29

—

INTERVIEW

Range What does the word “legacy” mean to you?

Giles Duley In school, we learn about wars based on when they started, when they finished, and through the eyes of the people, usually men, fighting. But if you look at modern conflicts, about 90 percent of the casualties are civilians, which tends to mean women and children. And for people who are injured in conflict, whether psychologically or physically, wars don’t end when peace deals are signed. So legacy, for me, is looking at the period after everyone forgets.

R How does that guide your foundation’s philosophy?

GD You hear a lot of charities say, we empower women, children, communities around the world. After I was injured, nobody empowered me to walk again — but they gave me the training, skills and equipment to do it. So, what we do is break down the barriers that stop people from empowering themselves. A good example is Land for Women in Rwanda. That project began as a cooperative of 25 women who were survivors of the genocide and sexual violence, renting land to get basically no money for the potatoes they grew. Now, I’m a white bloke from South London. I couldn’t empower these women — these women are the strongest I’ve ever met. But we could break down their barriers to education and land ownership.

R What happens when those barriers are removed?

GD Within the Imboni Cooperative’s first year, the Rwandan government found that malnutrition had disappeared. Children were in school full-time because they weren’t working on the farm. For the first time in their lives, women were saving money; they had health insurance. And the women chose to give away 25 percent of their produce to people in need in their communities. We didn’t

30

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

ABOVE Giles Duley’s photographs: Josephine, a South Sudanese refugee, plays with her siblings in Uganda’s Bidi Bidi refugee camp in 2018 (left); Donatha Murerehe, from the Imboni Cooperative in Rwanda, in 2023 (right).

OPENING PAGE Giles Duley in Donbas, Ukraine, in 2020.

PHOTOS: GILES DULEY (THIS PAGE); JIM MARSDEN (OPPOSITE PAGE).

GOING PLACES

GOING PLACES

—

INTERVIEW

Travel Bites Earliest travel memory

“Going to Chicago when I was about 11 as an unaccompanied minor to see my sister. I wore this big sign around my neck with my name on it and thought I was really grown-up.”

Most treasured souvenir

“I have a little Father Christmas that an Iraqi refugee knitted. She didn’t know what Christmas was, but she’d seen a picture and wanted to make something for me.”

Favorite way to travel “Trains. I adore trains.”

Favorite train trip

“Scotland’s east coast. You pass the sea and the mountains and it’s absolutely beautiful.”

tell them they had to save, or that their kids had to be back in school. We gave them the platform to do the things they’d always wanted to do.

R You’ve said you’ll only photograph a community if you’ve eaten with them first. How come?

GD In our normal lives, everything revolves around food. You meet someone you’re attracted to, you ask them out for dinner. You have a wedding, a funeral — the focus is on food. That’s how we build relationships in everyday life. So why not in my work? It’s a sign of respect, when I meet someone and say, look, can I come back tomorrow and we’ll cook together? It surprises people, but it also opens up a different relationship. Food is the greatest storyteller.

R And what do you cook with them?

GD I like to come in and say, I’m going to show you something you’ve never had. The last time I was in Lebanon with Syrian refugees, I was like, right, I’ll cook an Italian dish, you cook your Syrian dish, and we’ll see whose is better. You see families going, oh my God, that’s weird and different. But it’s all tongue-in-cheek.

R What does Legacy of War Foundation have planned for this year?

GD In Ukraine, we’re training people with disabilities to become physiotherapists and prosthetists, because that’s a double whammy — we build capacity within the country, and jobs for people who have war injuries. Land for Women is expanding with two more farms in Rwanda, and we’re hoping to take it to Cambodia and other countries. We’ve worked hard and set an example of how we want to do things, and this is a year of growth. 

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

Overnight-flight essential

“It’s not very rock ’n’ roll, but my pink-colored eye mask, because it was the only one I could find infused with lavender.”

Place you can go back to again and again

“Lebanon. The people, the food, the energy.”

Place not enough people have seen “Rwanda.”

H OW YO U C A N H E L P Ensemble has launched a campaign to fund a new farming cooperative for Legacy of War Foundation’s Land for Women project in Rwanda. To help, visit tinyurl.com/rangelowf.

31

Hawai‘i B y S y d n e y L o n e y — P h o t o s by R i c k y -T h o m a s S e r i k a w a

A story about resilience, responsibility — and how we might reframe our return to the oceans, mountains and forests of this remarkable archipelago.

Revisited

HAWAI’I

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

33

HAWAI’I

I

f you encounter a sea turtle in the sparkling waters of Hawai‘i, stay a respectful 10 feet away. Refrain from swimming above or beneath it. And should the turtle begin rubbing its eyes with its fins, that’s a sign that it has grown weary of your (understandable) fascination with it. It’s time to snorkel on.

This is just a smattering of the ocean know-how I glean from my guide Oliver Hodous, standing in the dappled shade of a Kiawe tree on Maluaka Beach before setting off on a kayaking tour along the south Maui coastline. The first 45 minutes of every three-hour Hawaiian Paddle Sports tour is devoted to education. We start with a primer on local reef fish (including parrotfish, which help maintain the island’s brilliant white-sand beaches by excreting the coral they eat) and review key ocean-conservation tips (a sunscreen labeled “reef safe” isn’t reef safe if it contains anything other than the minerals zinc oxide or titanium dioxide).

I also develop a cursory understanding of — and deeper appreciation for — Hawaiian culture and the poetry of its language. It is composed of only 13 letters plus the ‘okina, a punctuation mark resembling a reversed apostrophe that’s treated like a consonant.

Many Hawaiian words convey more than one thing. “‘Aloha’ is more than ‘hello,’” Oliver says. “It is the essence of being, and it means ‘the breath of life.’

It’s a greeting of mutual compassion, like saying, ‘I breathe, you breathe, we are one person.’”

I think about this as we push our kayaks out into the ocean, and I realize that the lesson on the beach has enriched my experience on the water. When I lean back to admire the view of the small volcanic island of Kaho‘olawe under a cloudless sky, I recall what Oliver shared about its past as a bombing range for the U.S. Navy. Today, its surface is riddled with craters, unexploded missiles and contaminated soil — though

34

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT An outrigger-canoe hale (house); kayakers launch from Makena Landing; Tim Lara, founder of Hawaiian Paddle Sports, on Kahului Bay. “If we can teach people to love the marine environment, then hopefully they will want to protect it.”

OPENING SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT Surfers wait for the right wave on Honolua Bay; Iokepa Nae‘ole (Kepa) gazes out to sea from the shores of Kahului, where he was born. Kepa wears a traditional maile lei, which is presented to others as a symbol of honor and respect.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

HAWAI’I

Where to Stay FAIRMONT KEA LANI, MAUI Fairmont Kea Lani guests are greeted in a luxurious open-air lobby with melodic waterfalls surrounded by lush gardens. In addition to its three pools and white-sand beach, the hotel features a new immersive Hawaiian cultural center and offers daily opportunities for guests to connect with the Hawaiian way of life, from sampling island family recipes at Kō, its award-winning restaurant, to learning to paddle an outrigger canoe.

efforts are being made to protect Kaho‘olawe’s many sacred archeological sites and to rewild it with native plants. Later, when I pull on snorkel gear and slip out of my kayak to cool off, I’m able to identify many of the colorful fish flitting through the coral. Deep down, I spot a green sea turtle, her shell like an intricate mosaic tile on the ocean floor. I admire her from a distance.

(And I know the turtle is a “she” because she has a very short tail — another tidbit from my beach briefing.)

“Those 45 minutes that you spent on the beach with Oliver were a very important 45 minutes,” Tim Lara, owner of Hawaiian Paddle Sports, later tells me. He founded the Maui-based eco-tour company in 2010.

“One time when I was guiding, I had guests who didn’t know there was a Hawaiian people, or a Hawaiian language — and they’d been to Hawai‘i 10 times.”

Tim wants to fix that. In addition to ocean safety and marine-naturalist certification, all his guides receive cultural training. Their job, he says, is about more than taking people out on the ocean and showing them a whale or sea turtle.

Occasionally, someone complains. Why did they have to stand on the beach learning when they could have been in the water, snorkeling? “I never apologize for what we do,” Tim says. “When I moved to Maui, I was taught the concept of kuleana, which essentially means that for every privilege we have in life, we have a responsibility connected to it. One thing we say on our tours is that if we have the privilege of playing in the ocean, we have the responsibility of caring for the ocean.”

Like so many places around the world, Hawai‘i has endured its share of hardships in recent years. The August 2023 wildfire that levelled Maui’s historic town of Lahaina was the most devastating natural disaster in modern Hawaiian history. And although it is dependent on tourism, the state’s popularity has also become a problem (tourists outnumber locals seven to one). The steady influx of visitors threatens the integrity of beaches, reefs and hiking trails. In the

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

35

HAWAI’I

LEFT TO RIGHT “We try to teach visitors about how Hawaiians look at our environment, that we’re a part of it. And that we all have a role to play,” says Kepa; Kaihalulu (also known as Red Sand Beach) is famous for its ruddy hue and rugged coastline.

aftermath of the wildfires, visitors are being invited to return, but by an industry that is encouraging a more regenerative tourism model — one that gives more than it takes. The hope, Tim says, is that visitors will embrace the concept of mālama (to care for) when they come, and help protect and preserve Hawai‘i.

For Tim, using his tours to teach visitors about ocean conservation comes easily. He spent much of his childhood in the water around the Florida Keys, where his father was a diver and an environmentalist (Tim joined him in protests against offshore drilling when he was a kid). But teaching visitors about a culture and language not his own is another thing entirely, and he wanted to make sure he got it right. That’s where Iokepa Nae‘ole (known as Kepa) comes in.

The two met about 20 years ago, at the Hawaiian Canoe Club, where Kepa taught Tim how to paddle an outrigger. Before long, Kepa became Hawaiian Paddle Sports’ cultural advisor, and every year he trains the tour company’s guides. “I tell them, ‘You’ve got a humongous responsibility on your shoulders,’” he says. “With every guest who comes through, you need to do what you can to get the message of kuleana to them so they can take it home and spread it there.”

When Kepa used to take visitors out onto the ocean, he did the same thing he now teaches Tim’s guides to do, sharing Hawaiian legends and language and trying to help them feel a connection to both the culture and the environment. “We just have to chip away at it, one visitor at a time,” he says. “When they got out of my canoe, I wanted them to go home and realize that the products they consume, the cars they drive, the lifestyle that they choose affects us, because it is our sea that is suffering from microplastics and global warming and rising sea levels. We want people to realize that it’s not just us, we can’t fight it here alone.”

(Tim has had notes from travelers inspired to launch river cleanups at home after their tours.)

Another of Kepa’s missions is to dispel the many misconceptions visitors have about Hawai‘i, particularly the common belief that it’s a playground.

“This is not Disneyland,” he says. Recently, a group of tourists spotted a baby humpback whale that had

36

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

HAWAI’I

Where to Eat UMEKES FISH MARKET BAR & GRILL, HAWAI‘I Local photographer Ricky-Thomas Serikawa recommends a poke bowl with poi (mashed taro root) on the side at Umekes in Kailua-Kona.

“I love going to Umekes because their fish is straight out of Kona waters.”

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

37

HAWAI’I

38

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

HAWAI’I

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Jane and Paul Field fight wild ginger in Volcanoes National Park (“The hardest part is getting Jane out of the forest,” Paul says); the park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; a native Manono plant spotted along the trail.

become separated from its mother near Waikīkī. One woman jumped into the water and tried to climb on the distressed calf ’s back. (Ocean safety teams eventually arrived to guide the calf back out into the ocean.) “For me, there’s a simple way to differentiate between a tourist and a visitor,” Kepa says. “A tourist will try to ride a lost baby whale or a sea turtle, or drive by a burned-out town to take pictures of it. A visitor will come and ask how they can help.”

Many are doing exactly that. Hawai‘i is the perfect embodiment of transformative travel — you’re bound to be affected by your visit. “There is an intangible benefit to being here,” Kepa says. “I think that’s what drives people to share their stories when they go home.

It’s that feeling that they have, that aloha, that they find for this place.” But inevitably, your visit also leaves its mark. Every newcomer to these pristine islands has changed them in some way — only now, some visitors are helping to ensure those changes are positive ones.

To date, 23,613 people have signed the Pono Pledge, a sustainable-tourism commitment created in 2019 that’s based on the word pono, which means righteous, respectful, responsible. But visitors can do more than sign the pledge. They can participate in a beach cleanup in Maui before heading out onto the ocean (an activity that’s often part of a Hawaiian Paddle Sports tour) or contribute to reforestation efforts during a hike or help clear invasive species while walking in Volcanoes National Park. That was the option I chose when I left Maui to explore the Island of Hawai‘i.

In Volcanoes National Park, I meet Jane and Paul Field outside the Kīlauea Visitor Center, loppers in hand. Once a week, for the past 11 years, the retired couple have taken volunteers — usually a mix of both local regulars and visitors to the island — out into the forest to hack away at the long stalks of Himalayan yellow ginger that are crowding out native plants on the forest floor beneath the towering Ohia trees.

“I jokingly tell people that my wife and I fell in love with this park before we fell in love with each other,” Paul says. When they first started hiking in the forest, the pair admired the ginger, which was planted in the park decades ago simply because it was pretty. Then,

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

39

HAWAI’I

What to Do ON THE ISLAND OF HAWAI’I Pay a visit to Laulima Nature Center in Hilo, a community hub that hosts free conservation events; roast your own sustainable coffee beans at Kona Joe’s on the Kona Coast; or take a tour of Kona Sea Salt farm, which supports the Papahānaumokuākea Marine Debris Project to remove fishing nets and plastics from reefs and shorelines.

they learned the truth — and decided to do something about it. First, on their own, and then, since they clearly weren’t going to give up, the Center’s Interpretation Division helped them set up a volunteer program.

“Ginger is a water and nutrient hog,” Paul explains as we shoulder through the stalks, shearing them off a foot from the ground so the couple can return and dust the cuts with herbicide to prevent the plants from growing back. “The forest floor should be covered with little ferns.”

The work is meditative, nothing but the sound of rhythmic lopping and the occasional trill of the ‘Oma‘o thrush as we uncover the forest that should be. The ginger stalks give way with a satisfying crunch, like snapping spears of asparagus. “This forest doesn’t exist anywhere else in the world,” Jane says. “If we lose it, it’s not just a loss for us, it’s a loss for everybody on the planet.” I will only spend a few hours in this peaceful, restorative rainforest, but I feel an urgency to help preserve it. Piles of mangled ginger amass at my feet and I push deeper into the dense wall of green. I think of kuleana, and I’m reluctant to stop hacking when Paul tells us it’s time to go — just let me tackle this last patch!

There are about 15,000 acres of ginger in the park, and Jane and Paul have probably cleared about 50 acres of it, returning to push the encroaching ginger back every other year from those same acres. “We know we’ll never get rid of it,” Paul says. “But when we return to an area we’ve done, we see how the forest is responding and growing. We see new plants, and seedlings that are now taller and stronger. It’s very rewarding.”

Every year, Paul and Jane encounter visitors who, like them, have fallen in love with the park and return to spend a few hours battling ginger in the forest during their vacations on the island. Here, as on the beaches of Maui, the concept of kuleana, of privilege and responsibility, might be the one thing that can protect and preserve Hawai‘i for both its residents and its visitors.

“We love sharing our park with other people,” Jane says. “I can’t imagine a better day than one spent in this native forest — and, if you’re going to be here, you might as well be doing something useful.” 

40

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

HAWAI’I

LEFT TO RIGHT Mālama da ‘āina means to care for the land as you would your family; the 80-foot Waiānuenue falls are also known as Rainbow Falls for their colorful mist; when the swell is good, you can ride a wave for a quarter-mile to Kahana Bay on the island of O’ahu.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

41

A Taste of the Sacred Valley P h o t o s by B e n S k l a r — W o r d s by C l a i r e S i b o n n e y

High in Peru’s Andes is a remote restaurant where the revival of traditional practices is driven by preservation — and innovation — at the hands of Michelin-starred chefs.

M

oray isn’t a place you just happen to pass by. At 11,706 feet above sea level, this isolated site in the Andes took photographer Ben Sklar roughly 30 miles northwest of Cusco, on a journey through landscapes fringed by snowcapped mountains and dotted with Quechua villages. He was drawn here, to the heart of the Sacred Valley, by the centuries-old Moray ruins — circular terraces once used for farming — and

by Mil, a culinary experience that bridges the gap between that relic of Incan ingenuity and the modern day.

Behind Mil are culinary visionaries Virgilio Martínez and Pía León, creators of Lima’s Central, which earned top spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2023, and scientist Malena Martínez (Virgilio’s sister), director of Mater Iniciativa, the restaurant group’s research arm. For this team, exposing diners to the ecosystems around Mil is just as important as the eight-course tasting menu they serve. “We want people to immerse themselves in the world of the Andes, which means delving into an understanding of their surroundings, and a culture entirely linked to the environment,” says Malena.

OPPOSITE PAGE Mil’s Corn dish, featuring piscoronto, chullpi and white corn, along with queso fresco.

PERU

At Mil’s research center, Mater Iniciativa (pictured above), Malena leads projects that blend ancestral knowledge with techniques to revolutionize food sustainability and community development, including reviving ancient preservation methods. The Mater team is also finding new uses for cacao, the key ingredient in chocolate.

Typically, only the seeds, which make up about 15 percent of the cacao fruit, are used, but the team is devising ways to use the membrane, mucilage, seed skins and whole pod. And, launching this spring, Mater’s Anccoto project will focus on education and nutrition for children in the nearby town of Maras. Mil works closely with neighboring communities, applying the Andean concept of ayni, which is about reciprocity — the harvest is distributed in equal parts to supply both Mil and those who work the land. “We’re moving beyond short-term aid to sustainable development,” says Malena.

44

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Foraged herbs hang to dry at Mater Iniciativa; the Moray ruins are believed to have been an experimental farm system used by the Incas more than 500 years ago; different leaves and petals, such as fragrant Sambucus peruviana blossoms, are used in Mil’s dishes; the architecture of Mil blends seamlessly with its surroundings.

PERU

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

45

PERU

Like its sister restaurant, Central, Mil focuses on ingredients unique to Peru and the Andes, but takes the concept to higher altitudes. Everything on the tasting menu is sourced from the mountains at a minimum elevation of 9,800 feet. Even a typical sea-level ingredient like salt is harvested from the Salt Mines of Maras, created in pre-Columbian times and still used by the Maras and Pichingoto communities.

46

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

ABOVE The road to Mil and the Moray ruins, 11,706 feet above sea level in the Sacred Valley region of the Andes.

PERU

Myriad hues, intricate patterns and plumper, starchier kernels set Andean maize apart from the corn varieties commonly found in North America and Europe. Near Mil, corn is cultivated in traditional Quechua fields known as chakras. For the families who farm it, corn is more than sustenance; it represents the deep-rooted connection between pre-Columbian civilizations and the Andean peoples of today.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

ABOVE More than 55 varieties of corn are grown in Peru.

47

PERU

48

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

PERU

Guests are invited to explore beyond the dining table through the Mil Immersion experience, which involves touring the farmlands around the restaurant, foraging for botanicals with a local expert and visiting Mater’s labs before settling in for the tasting menu. Each course represents one of the ecosystems surrounding Mil, and ingredients include several varieties of corn, potatoes and other tubers.

There are more than 4,000 types of potatoes grown in Peru but, until recently, most people in the country cooked with only two varieties. This prompted Malena and her team to showcase the country’s extraordinary diversity of ancient tubers. When Ben was photographing Mil, he sampled several, including some in a dish called Central Andes (pictured above), which featured an array of native potatoes, stems and chaco (an edible clay) accentuated with wild chincho herbs. He is still wowed by the presentation. “The striking blend of purple, green and gold creates a visually perfect trifecta, stimulating in every aspect,” Ben says. “Realizing that you’re consuming a piece of history elevates the entire dining experience.” 

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT An artisan in the village of Chinchero weaves with naturally dyed yarn; a farmer harvests plants from a high-altitude lake near Urquillos; the Incan Temple of Wiracocha at the Raqchi archeological site stands 46 feet tall; foraged plants dry at Mater.

49

PHOTO: KARI MEDIG

Travel Like

SWITZERLAND

The Swiss

By Dominique Lamberton

Fresh Alpine air, efficient trains and charming car-free villages await in Switzerland — a country on a mission to be the most sustainable travel destination on the planet.

51

SWITZERLAND

O

f all the marvels she points out on a morning walking tour of Lucerne — historic churches, medieval squares, ancient fortifications — Doris Mumenthaler probably isn’t expecting the orderly pile of bright-blue garbage bags to be the thing that gets our attention.

In the central Swiss city at the foot of the Alps, Doris, a Lucerne Tourism guide, has led our group from the train station toward the Old Town on the banks of the Reuss River. She’s steered us across the pedestrian Chapel Bridge, erected in the 14th century and adorned with fresh blooms each spring. She’s shown us what remains of the first window in the city, a Gothic-style relic that dates to 1050. And she’s given us each a cup to fill from Fritschibrunnen, one of the more than 200 public fountains in Lucerne flowing with crisp drinking water from nearby Mount Pilatus.

But the sight that prompts the most oohs and aahs is a tidy collection of trash bags lined up in front of a painted facade in the picturesque square of Hirschenplatz. For our group of North Americans, the scene is worth a moment of appreciation as Doris explains how Lucerne’s citizens observe the “polluter pays” principle, buying and filling the standardized bags, before neatly placing them within their designated streetside spot for pickup.

Its efficient waste-management framework (half the trash produced in the country is incinerated and turned into energy, while the other half is recycled) is just one way Switzerland is a leader in sustainability.

Another is its extensive transit infrastructure: Every day, more than 11,000 trains travel on a nearly 2,000mile network of tracks, carrying passengers to every corner of the landlocked country. And then, of course, there’s the nature: Home to lush valleys, soaring Alps and around 1,500 lakes, one-seventh of Switzerland’s surface area is covered in protected natural areas. But it’s not enough for it to be one of the most sustainable countries in the world — Switzerland wants to be the world’s most sustainable travel destination, too.

52

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

SWITZERLAND

LEFT Lucerne’s famed Chapel Bridge is considered the oldest covered bridge in Europe, but the octagonal Water Tower predates it, constructed at the end of the 13th century. Today, it’s home to a migratory colony of Alpine swifts, who return to Lucerne every spring.

OPENING SPREAD Skiers take in the view of the Matterhorn from the Blue Lounge at Blauherd station in Zermatt.

PHOTO: JOVANA ASKRABIC/UNSPLASH.

Three years ago, Switzerland Tourism launched Swisstainable, a strategy for creating a more sustainable tourism industry. At a time when governments are introducing policies to reach climate neutrality by 2050, and travelers care more about the environment and their impact than ever before (a recent report from Euromonitor International revealed that nearly 80 percent of travelers will pay at least 10 percent more for sustainable travel despite rising costs of living), it’s natural to look to tourism to make a difference. “We work with the whole industry so our guests can enjoy the mountains, landscapes and lakes with minimal impact on the environment,” says Viviane Grobet, Switzerland Tourism’s head of business development and partnerships, who oversees Swisstainable.

Visitors can look for the “Swisstainable” seal on everything from hotels and restaurants to attractions and even entire destinations that have committed to a set of sustainable measures, such as acquiring a recognized certification, like B Corp or EarthCheck. There are more than 2,500 businesses in the program, and by the end of 2024, the goal is to reach 4,000. Swisstainable also makes recommendations for visitors to help guide them toward a more responsible — and rewarding — experience, including appreciating nature up close, tasting regional products such as cheese, wine and chocolate, and simply staying longer to reduce their ecological footprint.

“We want travelers to stay as long as possible and to delve deeper,” says Grobet. To that end, the Swiss Travel Pass gives international travelers unlimited rides on trains, buses and boats throughout the country (plus some mountain excursions and admission to more than 500 museums). The Pass is available for three, four, six, eight or 15 days — I secure one for eight days so I can properly explore central Switzerland, through the cantons of Lucerne, Bern, Valais and Zurich. Traveling exclusively on trains (plus a few cable cars and a steamboat), I’m on a mission to experience the country the Swisstainable way.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

53

SWITZERLAND

THE FARM WITHIN THE CITY IN LUCERNE On Doris’ recommendation, I climb the streets beyond Lucerne’s Old Town to the Musegg Wall, one of the longest fortifications in Switzerland. Walking the path behind the imposing rampart, I spot a pig grazing — and then a chicken moseys by. Right in the middle of the city, Kulturhof Hinter Musegg is a sixacre working farm on land that has been cultivated since the Middle Ages.

The city of Lucerne has owned the property since 1945, and locals Pia and Walter Fassbind have been its stewards since 2000. Today, the non-profit foundation Stiftung Kultur- und Lebensraum Musegg oversees the operation, which includes the organic farm (home to four mini-pigs, four goats, two alpacas, four Highland cows and numerous chickens), restaurant, farm shop, and educational programming geared around sustainability. One of the workshops, which you can also do as a self-guided walk around the property, is centered on the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals.

Last year, the restaurant was awarded three Bio Cuisine stars — a Swiss designation that recognizes restaurants that serve 90 percent (or more) certified organic products. The farm grows herbs and fruit on site, the restaurant and shop source all other ingredients as close to the farm as possible, and the team strives to minimize waste: “Whatever we can’t sell in the farm store, we use in the kitchen,” says Janine Balmer, who’s in charge of events and communications. “If we have carrots, for example, we can make a cake or pickle them, and then we either put those products back in the store or serve them in the restaurant.”

I taste the carrots in a bright side salad that accompanies a piece of melt-in-your-mouth veggie quiche topped with crispy cheese in the restaurant’s courtyard, where you can see right into the tidy stables of the resident pigs and goats. Later, I go in search of the Highland cows, who are grazing on the other side of the property, and notice a quote painted on the side of a trailer-turned-classroom, in the shadow of one of the Musegg Wall’s towers: “When we are dreaming alone it’s only a dream. When we are dreaming with others, it’s the beginning of reality.”

54

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

SWITZERLAND

LEFT Approximately 400,000 cows (plus sheep, goats and alpacas) descend from their mountain pastures at summer’s end in festive homecomings celebrated throughout Switzerland’s Alpine villages.

PHOTO: KEINE ANGABEN FOR SWITZERLAND TOURISM.

THE CHEESE GROTTO IN GSTAAD The journey from Lucerne to Gstaad, a glitzy Alpine resort town that’s known as much for celebrities as for the slopes they come to ski, is textbook Switzerland. Spacious, spotless panoramic trains — the Luzern-Interlaken Express and the GoldenPass Express — wind me through rolling countryside stamped with charming villages, classic chalets and lakes so blue they pop right out of the landscape.

Despite its glamor, Gstaad is rooted in agriculture (there are as many cows as people in the region) and is renowned for its cheese, which is produced using traditional Alpine methods. Every spring, the area’s prized Simmental cattle are brought up to the mountains to graze for the summer, their cow bells resounding through the valleys, before being crowned in floral headpieces and paraded down to the villages for celebrations that take place in early September.

To experience — and taste — the region’s signature Alpine cheese, Hobelkäse, a.k.a. “the gold of the Alps,” I head to Molkerei Gstaad’s cheese grotto.

The cooperative made up of 66 dairy farms has been in operation since 1931. In a former water reservoir located in the same rolling hills where the cattle graze, I follow Molkerei Gstaad’s managing director, René Ryser, down a series of steep wooden steps.

Inside the underground chamber, choral music sounds and candlelight illuminates more than 3,000 gigantic wheels of cheese, stacked up to eight shelves high. (It’s immediately clear why the grotto is often referred to as a “cathedral of cheese.”) On a table in the center, a selection is ready for tasting, including the distinctive Hobelkäse, aged for two years in this very spot before being hand-sliced and rolled into delicate cylinders. It’s sharp, fruity and flavorful — and a taste of history.

“Cheese production in this area was first documented in 1548,” says Ryser. “Today, 100 farmers produce this cheese, and they still use the same recipe.” The milk is heated in a cauldron over a wood fire, the way it always has been, so you’ll sometimes even find little spots of ash in the final product, says Ryser. “It’s a mark of quality.”

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

55

SWITZERLAND

THE ALPINE ACCESS IN CAR-FREE ZERMATT After arriving in Zermatt on the Matterhorn Gotthard Railway, an electric taxi is waiting outside the train station to shuttle me to my hotel. Nestled under the towering Matterhorn, Zermatt is famous for this majestic, pyramidal peak (it’s the most photographed mountain on Earth) and for its car-free status. Since the 1960s, the village has been a pedestrian paradise, where the only wheels are on trains, bicycles, horsedrawn carriages, and electric taxis and buses.

It makes sense, given the connectivity and accessibility of the area’s mountain trains and cable cars, like those operated by Matterhorn Zermatt Bergbahnen. Its Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cable car journey whisks adventurers up the Klein Matterhorn peak to hike, ski or simply enjoy the view from the highest mountain station in Europe (12,740 feet above sea level). You can carry on to Italy, too: The new Matterhorn Alpine Crossing connects Zermatt with Breuil-Cervinia, a nine-station trip that takes about 90 minutes one-way.

I ride to the Testa Grigia/Plateau Rosa station on the Swiss-Italian border with Claudia Wyss, international sales manager for Matterhorn Zermatt Bergbahnen, and her Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, Lilly.

Born and raised in Zermatt, Wyss has used the area’s cableways her whole life. A typical summer day for her might involve riding to Schwarzsee station for a trail run with Lilly, while winter days are spent skitouring — with Lilly catching a lift on her shoulders.

Soaring over the snowy peaks as an epic instrumental soundtrack fills our spacious cabin takes my breath away. It feels like I’m on one of those flight-simulation rides; I need to remind myself that I am, in fact, suspended hundreds of feet over the Alps, the tip of the Matterhorn popping in and out of view behind a veil of clouds. I understand why this place, where nature is not only at your doorstep but in your face, means so much to Wyss.

“In Zermatt, we love nature and we want to protect it,” she says. “I think it’s important that people come and see what we have here — the water, the fresh air — and that they fall in love with it and do everything they can to protect it, too.”

56

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

SWITZERLAND

LEFT The Luzern-Interlaken Express passes five aquamarine mountain lakes on its 60-mile route, and converts to cogwheel technology to take on the steep ascent to Brünig Pass.

Three MustRide Trains GOLDENPASS EXPRESS This revolutionary panoramic train connects Interlaken and Montreux, no change required, thanks to variable-gauge bogies that allow the train to switch tracks. Book seats in the Prestige section to enjoy wine, charcuterie and caviar from suppliers along the route.

PHOTO: SIMON KIM FOR ZENTRALBAHN.

RIGI Included in the Swiss Travel Pass, this railway network carries you up Mount Rigi via cogwheel train or cable car. You’ll find 75 miles of hiking trails in the summer and magnificent views of Lakes Lucerne, Zug and Lauerz all year long.

GORNERGRAT RAILWAY For picture-perfect Matterhorn views, take this eco-friendly train (it was the world’s first fully electrified cog railway) from Zermatt to the summit of Gornergrat, 10,170 feet above sea level.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

THE VEGETARIAN EMPIRE IN ZURICH “This burger is one of the best in the city,” says Milan Dragoljevic as he points to a patty on the counter at Hiltl Vegimetzg. “It’s made of pea protein with wheat, mushrooms, beetroot and tomato.”

After days of fondue and raclette in the Alps, I’ve arrived in Zurich, where Hiltl’s vegetarian empire is a refreshing change of taste. In the veggie butcher shop, I sample smoked “salmon” prepared with carrots and tartare made from eggplant before heading next door to the main restaurant and mothership, Haus Hiltl.

Hiltl is recognized by Guinness World Records as the oldest continuously operating vegetarian restaurant in the world. In 1898, after receiving a rheumatism diagnosis, Ambrosius Hiltl was advised to limit meat consumption. He took over Vegetarierheim, the only vegetarian restaurant in Zurich at the time, after falling in love with not only the food, but the cook — and the Hiltl brand was born. Since then, the family-run operation has grown to nine locations and a partnership with Swiss International Air Lines.

The dishes on both Hiltl’s à la carte menus and buffet change seasonally, and more than 80 percent of ingredients are sourced from suppliers located within 30 miles of Zurich. Then, there are the non-food items: “Our goal is to be as sustainable as possible, from the menu covers to the bags for takeaway,” says Sandra Schirmeier, head of product and quality.

At lunchtime, two-story Haus Hiltl is buzzing with diners, most of whom flock to the pay-by-weight buffet to peruse the more than 100 dishes on offer. Families return to their tables with plates piled high — parents with colorful salads and curries, kids with broccoli and meatless chicken fingers. “Sustainability is a big part of everyone’s life in Switzerland,” Schirmeier says.

My final journey — and my 12th train ride in eight days — is a speedy 15-minute transfer from Zurich’s main station to the airport, which delivers me directly into the passenger terminal. As I soak in the final views from my train window, the city passing by in a blur, I realize that here in Switzerland, sustainability isn’t a dream — it’s reality. It always has been. 

57

Unlocking Seaweed’s Secrets B y O l i v e r B e r r y — P h o t o s by J o h n L a u r i e

How seaweed farmers on Wales’ west coast are regenerating both the ocean and the economy with the local supercrop.

WALES

“W ABOVE Câr-y-Môr headquarters is located on an old farm in St Davids, Pembrokeshire.

OPPOSITE PAGE Harvested seaweed dries in Câr-y-Môr’s sunlit polytunnel.

elcome to the wonderful world of seaweed,” says Jo Haines as she tramps across an autumnal field on the outskirts of St Davids, in the far west of Wales. She stops outside a polytunnel — a plastic, greenhouse-like structure — and slides open the door. “It’s not very glamorous,” she says. “But this is what being a seaweed farmer is all about.” Inside, lines of rope are festooned with a forest of drying seaweeds: flat, frilly, ribbon-like or rubbery, with colors ranging from vermilions and crimsons to ochres and maroons. The tunnel is a living, and pungent, seaweed pantry.

“There are hundreds of seaweeds around Britain, many of which are edible,” Jo says. “In here, we have sugar kelp, sea lettuce, dulse and sea spaghetti. Most we’ll use ourselves or send to restaurants; our seaweed is served by some of the U.K.’s top Michelin-starred chefs.” She hands me some sugar kelp to taste. It’s salty

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

and mineral-forward, like spinach laced with a sea tang.

It’s good in salads, Jo says, or for making sushi or pasta, and it’s also a superb accompaniment for seafood.

But the work Jo and her team do at Câr-y-Môr — Wales’ first community-owned regenerative ocean farm — is about more than exploring seaweed’s culinary uses. Operating on a ramshackle farm alongside the craggy, gorse-cloaked cliffs of Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, Câr-y-Môr is one of a new generation of businesses seeking to harness seaweed’s sustainable potential.

Set up in 2020 by Jo’s dad, Owen Haines, an exoyster and mussel farmer, Câr-y-Môr was inspired by pioneering projects such as GreenWave, the U.S.based foundation that is training a swell of regenerative ocean farmers. It’s a concept that’s well-suited to West Wales, an area with a long fishing history whose coastal communities have been decimated by the

59

WALES

60

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

WALES

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT Câr-y-Môr co-founder Jo Haines; a variety of seaweeds dry naturally in Câr-y-Môr’s polytunnel, allowing them to retain peak flavor and nutrients.

OPPOSITE PAGE Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, seen here from St Davids, is Britain’s only coastal national park, spanning 260 miles of shoreline.

double whammy of falling fish stocks and degraded marine ecosystems. Seaweed has been harvested here for centuries. Now, the Câr-y-Môr team, and other seaweed enthusiasts on Wales’ west coast, believe it can play an important role in regenerating the ocean environment, combating climate change and kickstarting the local economy.

There are many reasons to be excited about seaweed. For starters, it’s a superfood packed with polyphenols, carotenoids, omega-3 fatty acids, polysaccharides, amino acids and a cocktail of vitamins and minerals. Some nutritionists believe regular seaweed consumption may help explain why Asian nations, such as Japan and Korea, have lower rates of cancer and cardiovascular disease.

Seaweed can also be transformed into a surprising range of products. In addition to salad sprinkles, beer and bathstuffs, Câr-y-Môr is experimenting with

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

making bioplastics, biofuels and, most notably, fertilizers. Gardeners have long known about seaweed’s growth-boosting benefits, and Câr-y-Môr hopes its innovative biostimulant will provide an environmentally friendly alternative to the industrially produced, chemical-heavy fertilizers responsible for so much of the world’s water pollution.

Thirty miles down the coast, Jonathan Williams is also championing seaweed’s superpowers. The chef, entrepreneur and seaweed fanatic is the proprietor of the Pembrokeshire Beach Food Company, which offers everything from seaweed-based condiments and spice rubs to spirits and tea. He tends his own seaweed garden in the waters of Milford Haven, and is the founder of National Laverbread Day, an annual celebration of Wales’ most famous seaweed-based dish: laverbread (bara lawr in Welsh), the gooey paste that’s an essential part of a traditional Welsh breakfast.

61

WALES

62

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

WALES

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

63

WALES

64

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

WALES

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT Jonathan Williams clutches a handful of seaweed, freshly foraged off the coast of Freshwater West beach; a fisherman rows his tender into Porthgain harbor.

OPPOSITE PAGE Sailors head towards the Old Point House in Angle for a seaside bite.

PREVIOUS SPREAD Wide, sandy, two-milelong Freshwater West in Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is a destination for surfers and beachcombers.

Jonathan also runs Cafe Môr, a solar-powered mobile kitchen inside a repurposed fishing boat.

Cafe Môr recently moved to the Old Point House, a historic seaside pub near Angle that Jonathan has run since 2021. Seaweed is, unsurprisingly, the star of Cafe Môr’s menu, from the beef burger laced with laverbread and served with seaweed chili sauce to Jonathan’s bestseller, a breakfast roll featuring fried egg, bacon, Welsh cheddar cheese, laverbread patty and a dusting of a salt and seaweed blend called Mermaid Confetti.

“Seaweed is the most amazing stuff,” Jonathan says as he hauls a rope up from one of the buoys in his garden. The rope is entangled with different seaweeds, along with a menagerie of mussels, oysters and crustaceans. Seaweed provides a vital marine habitat, he says, but it’s also a natural ocean filter and form of carbon capture. “I honestly believe seaweed can change the world, if we give it a chance.”

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

Despite his enthusiasm, ocean farming, for now, remains a niche pursuit in the U.K., and Jo and Jonathan acknowledge it will take time to spread the word about its potential. Câr-y-Môr currently has three live sites: Together they span more than seven acres, but the goal is to farm at least 25, pending permission from the environmental regulator, Natural Resources Wales, and other organizations. It’s hard to imagine there will be many objections: Non-polluting and requiring little visible infrastructure, Câr-y-Môr’s seaweed farming operation is about as green as agriculture gets.

“One of the loveliest things about becoming seaweed farmers has been the community,” Jo says.

“We’ve been so inspired by the support we’ve received from other ocean farms around the world, from the Netherlands to Japan to California. Ultimately, we’re all working towards the same goal: unlocking seaweed’s secrets.” 

65

KEEPING THINGS GREEN ON THE OCEAN BLUE When you get onboard the boldest ships at sea, you don’t just see the world — you help protect it too. Royal Caribbean ® is committed to sustainability and every cruise does its part. We sail a fleet of 27 ships and counting designed to keep waste out of landfills. The new Icon SM and Utopia of the Seas SM are our first ships to be fueled by cleaner liquified natural gas. On shore, we’ve worked with many ports to provide eco-friendly tours. Together with our partners at the World Wildlife Fund keep, we protect the four-legged friends that roam our destinations. And for over 30 years, our Save the Waves program has worked to keep our world’s oceans clean and safe for the marine life that call it home.

That’s just a few of the many things that we’re doing to keep our shores and seas thriving. And when you sail with us, you do your part by helping us do ours. Come Seek the Royal Caribbean.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details or to book.

BEST CRUISE LINE AND IN THE CARIBBEAN OVERALL 21 YEARS RUNNING Travel Weekly Readers’ Choice Awards

©2024 Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd. Ships’ registry: The Bahamas. 23012480 • 01/05/2024

PHOTO: SUSANN SCHUSTER/UNSPLASH.

WHERE NEXT

Asakusa, Tokyo Tokyo’s oldest temple, Sensō-ji, is the heart of Asakusa, a historic district filled with traditional craft shops, lively street-food vendors and classic izakayas. In the summer months, the banks of the Sumida River are a hive of activity, home to the explosive Sumidagawa Fireworks Festival, while springtime offers moments for hanami (flower viewing) during cherry-blossom season. On page 76, discover more must-sees, -eats and -dos in the Japanese capital, whether you’re exploring pre- or post-cruise or planning a longer stay.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

67

WHERE NEXT

—

A P E R F E C T DAY I N

Scottsdale ARIZONA

The desert has long been a magnet for artists, dreamers and nature lovers. In sunny Scottsdale, this spirit is thriving, from the trails that crisscross the Sonoran landscape to the chefs redefining desert dining.

By D ave L ank

68

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

PHOTO: JEREMY ALFORD/UNSPLASH.

W

ith its world-class fairways, high-end shopping malls, spas offering every type of treatment you can imagine (and some you can’t: prickly-pear cactus massages and CBD gemstone facials), it’s easy to see why Scottsdale is a popular destination all year round. Golfers come for the more than 200 scenic courses; celebrities come for a lavish desert hideaway. But beyond the links and luxury, there’s another beat to Scottsdale, thrumming just beneath its sun-kissed surface. You’ll find it in the tucked-away mid-century-modern marvels, on the trails where hiking boots trump golf shoes, and in a culinary scene that’s as surprising as a desert bloom.

WHERE NEXT

—

A P E R F E C T DAY I N

01

PHOTOS: JENNA MCKONE FOR EXPERIENCE SCOTTSDALE (01); HASH KITCHEN (02); MIHAI LAZĂR/UNSPLASH (03).

Morning In the Arizona desert, where afternoons can reach temperatures of 105°F, mornings aren’t just the best time for a hike, they’re the only time. So I start my day at McDowell Sonoran Preserve, a sprawling, protected landscape 36 times the size of Central Park with a 225-mile network of trails.

I rendezvous with Denny, a guide from REI Co-op Adventure Center Arizona, at the preserve’s main entrance, about a halfhour drive from downtown Scottsdale.

As we set off on the 4.4-mile Gateway Loop Trail, the air is cool and perfumed with the sweet, soapy scent of the creosote bush. Denny, a retired snowbird who traded snow for the desert sun more than 20 years ago, peppers our journey with survival tips: “If you ever need to remove cholla cactus needles from your skin, use a hair comb.” The further we venture into the two-hour hike, the more the desert feels like a backdrop from a Sergio Leone spaghetti western (Scottsdale is, after all, dubbed the “West’s Most Western Town”).

We spot the hardy cactus flower, tall saguaros with prickly arms that jut out like inflatable tube men at car dealerships, and a mule deer, which scampers across the rocky trail just yards from us.

As the loop comes to its end, my rumbling stomach reminds me that adventure works up more than just a sweat. To refuel, I head to Hash Kitchen, one of Scottsdale’s buzziest brunch joints, which offers breakfast with a beat courtesy of a live DJ. But its star feature is the build-your-own Bloody Mary bar — the largest in Arizona. Diners craft Mason-jar masterpieces from a buffet of more than 50 fixings, including tempura shrimp, Italian meatballs, pickled cactus and oysters, before digging into dishes like fried-to-order cannoli donuts and Billionaire’s Bacon flecked with gold (an edible nod to the city’s glitzier side).

02

Post-brunch, I’m ready to immerse myself in the sanctuary of architectural giant Frank Lloyd Wright. Taliesin West, nestled in the foothills of the McDowell Mountains, is Wright’s desert tour de force. It served as his winter home and living laboratory for bringing his philosophy of “organic architecture” (connecting buildings with nature) to life.

Rising boldly from the rugged landscape, the low-slung buildings constructed by Wright and his apprentices in the 1930s cut a striking visual. A guided tour of Taliesin West, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the closest thing you’ll get to a walk-through of Wright’s mind: From the drafting tables in his private office to the Japanese-influenced origami chairs and pioneering open-concept spaces, every corner reflects Wright’s ahead-ofhis-time thinking.

03

01 The Garden Room at Taliesin West, which was recently restored to Frank Lloyd Wright’s 1950s design.

02 The Bloody Mary is your canvas at Hash Kitchen, where celery sticks and lemon wedges are just the beginning.

03 McDowell Sonoran Preserve is the largest urban preserve in the U.S.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

69

WHERE NEXT

—

A P E R F E C T DAY I N

05

Just a tumbleweed’s roll from downtown Scottsdale, Postino Highland is a wine bar housed in a mid-century architectural treasure — a former Valley National Bank branch designed by Frank Henry, a protégé of Wright’s. The menu highlight is a mix-and-match board of loaded bruschetta (make sure the Mexican street-corn variety is on yours), which yields a light yet satisfying hot-weather lunch, especially when paired with a bottle from the wine list that features small, sustainable producers.

After lunch, delve into a corner of the desert that underwent a trippy makeover starting in the late 1950s: Cosanti is the former residence and studio of Paolo Soleri, the

04 Cosanti Originals’ bronze and ceramic wind bells and sculptures are on display in Paolo Soleri’s striking apse.

05 Postino Highland’s signature bruschetta boards are perfect for sharing — or not.

04

late Italian-American architect, designer, philosopher and utopian-city planner.

The sprawling complex of otherworldly buildings, located a 15-minute drive north of downtown Scottsdale, looks like it was imagined during a desert fever dream — terraced land morphs into rounded clay and concrete structures that feel natural rather than constructed. Every corner of Cosanti seems a defiant challenge to conventional architecture and ways of building. It’s no wonder that George Lucas is rumored to have taken inspiration from this surreal setting for Star Wars.

Today, the site continues to pulsate with originality as the headquarters and foundry of Cosanti Originals, Soleri’s distinctive handcrafted bronze and ceramic sculptures and wind bells, which sound as you walk the paths of the gallery grounds.

(And if you visit on a weekday morning, you can witness the pouring process, as artisans tip molten bronze heated to 2,200°F from a crucible into carved molds.)

70

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

PHOTOS: JESSICA JAMESON PHOTO FOR THE COSANTI FOUNDATION (04); RYAN CORDWELL FOR EXPERIENCE SCOTTSDALE (05).

Afternoon

SAILING TOWARD A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE Our global sustainability program, Sail & Sustain, is centered around our commitment to drive a positive impact on society and the environment while delivering on our vision to be the vacation of choice for everyone around the world. The future of our

business is closely intertwined with the health of our planet and the communities we visit. As we continue our environmental,

social and governance journey, we look forward to working closely with our key partners to collectively chart a path toward a more sustainable future.

REDUCING OUR ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

SAILING SAFELY

addressing climate

safety compliance

business practices that

priority to protect

We are committed to

change through mindful protect and preserve the environment.

Maintaining a

EMPOWERING PEOPLE

public health and

continue to embrace

stringent 24/7/365

culture is our top

our guests, crew and

communities we visit.

We value and

a diverse, safe and

It is our responsibility

OPERATING WITH INTEGRITY AND ACCOUNTABILITY

give back to the

governance system provides

and privilege to

inclusive culture

communities around

empowers our team

where we live, work,

that supports and members.

LEARN MORE ABOUT NCL’S SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES HERE: ©2023 NCL CORPORATION LTD. SHIPS’ REGISTRY: BAHAMAS AND USA. 554417 12/23

STRENGTHENING OUR COMMUNITIES

the world

visit and serve.

Our strong corporate

high standards of transparency and accountability for ethical and responsible

business practices.

WHERE NEXT

—

A P E R F E C T DAY I N

07

06 FnB chef and owner Charleen Badman’s flavorful seasonal dishes have earned her the nickname, “the veggie whisperer.”

07 The past and present meet in Old Town Scottsdale, where you’ll find coffee shops, restaurants, public art installations and historic sites dating back to the late 1880s.

Evening When the desert sun starts to dip and the air shifts from searing to soothing, make your way to Old Town Scottsdale, a lively hub where high-end art galleries rub up against bustling, open-air bars and souvenir shops peddling every take on the humble cactus.

In one, I snag two scorpions encased in lollipops for my kids, a nod to their parting advice: “Watch out for scorpions!”

Tucked into a nondescript courtyard, FnB is considered the heartbeat of Scottsdale’s flourishing culinary scene. In a refurbished mid-century space, chef Charleen Badman, a James Beard Award winner, showcases the rhythm of Arizona’s growing cycles with a veggie-forward menu.

72

Badman works with local farmers to push the boundaries of what the desert can produce. The results show up in dishes like grilled spicy broccolini with Meyer-lemon aioli, Gilfeather rutabaga with ginger crème fraîche and a persimmon salad that will linger in my mind for months.

After dinner, I stroll the softly lit streets of Old Town, reflecting on all the ways Scottsdale is more than simply a cold-weather escape: It’s a place where the past and the present, the natural and the man-made, the glitzy and the soulful coexist in a beautiful, delicate balance. And the more than 330 days of sunshine per year? Well, that certainly doesn’t hurt. 

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

W H E R E T O S TAY FAIRMONT SCOTTSDALE PRINCESS

Situated on 65 acres of Sonoran Desert, the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess is home to five restaurants (including La Hacienda for innovative Mexican and more than 200 varieties of tequila) and six sparkling pools (one even has a white-sand beach).

For a secluded “resort within a resort” experience, book one of the Privado Villas, complete with lushly landscaped grounds and an exclusive lounge area and pool.

PHOTOS: JILL RICHARDS FOR FNB (06); JEREMY ALFORD/UNSPLASH (07); FAIRMONT SCOTTSDALE PRINCESS (WHERE TO STAY).

06

C R U I S I N G E L E VAT E D On an Avalon cruise, we believe the greatest luxury is freedom – the freedom to wake up to a world of possibilities, the freedom to personally design your days of discovery, and the freedom to pursue your passions at your desired pace. Avalon goes beyond the one-size-fits-all itineraries and traditional sightseeing of other cruise lines to offer engaging new ways to see the Old World.

THE AVALON DIFFERENCE: Open-Air Balconies

Personalized Experiences

Our innovative Open-Air Balconies blur the line between outside and in with wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling windows that are 11-feet wide, open 7-feet without sacrificing room space.

Choose from Classic, Active, or Discovery excursions that invite you to further personalize your experience to suit your interests and passions.

More Unique Port Cities

Dining Flexibility

Discover hidden gems with more time in each destination where we lead cruisers down the paths less traveled to the sights most revered.

Craft cocktails and regional wines; inspired menus and artisanal dishes — all with flexible venues and seating times.

Effortless Elegance

100% On Board with Sustainability

Experience relaxed luxury where top-tier service and the expertise of our Cruise Directors & local guides combine with a laid-back, yet sophisticated, ambiance on-board.

Taking sustainability to greater depths, we conserve energy, save water and limit waste production across operations, dining and housekeeping on each and every ship.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

WHERE NEXT

—

ASK A LOCAL

New Zealand, Naturally Our local expert reveals the best places to spot wildlife and how a Māori concept has laid the groundwork for responsible travel.

01

03

What surprises people most when they visit New Zealand?

New Zealand is the entire world in one California-sized bite of land. Geographically, we have every natural formation, from glaciers to beaches and, every three or four hours of travel time, the scenery changes as dramatically as if you’re in another country. It’s worth giving yourself a good two weeks to explore.

How did the country get the kiwi off the endangered species list?

Our native birds, including the kiwi, had no natural predators, so they didn’t need to fly, but many became endangered when settlers arrived and introduced other species, such as rats, ferrets and weasels. Thanks to conservation efforts like predator-free programs, kiwi are now thriving in many regions. We take clients on a behind-the-scenes tour of a kiwi hatchery in Rotorua, on the North Island, and you can often spot them in the wild at night.

02

04

What role do visitors play in preserving the Land of the Long White Cloud?

We adhere strongly to the Māori concept of Tiaki, which, in essence, means to care, conserve and protect. This care — for people, place and culture — is endorsed by Tourism New Zealand as the Tiaki Promise, a set of principles for responsible travel we ask all visitors to respect.

Where are some other hot spots for wildlife sightings?

The east coast of the South Island is rich in marine life, including seals and dusky dolphins, and sperm whales reside year-round at Kaikōura. Head farther south to Akaroa Harbour for the world’s rarest (and smallest) dolphin, the incredibly cute Hector’s dolphin.

Sarah Farag OWNER & DIRECTOR OF SOUTHERN CROSSINGS

Southern Crossings is a leader in tailored luxury travel itineraries Down Under. Just how tailored? Since joining in 1997, Farag says they’ve “never repeated an itinerary.” She now heads up the company’s New Zealand and Australia teams, curating custom travel experiences for clients.

74

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

ABOVE For a unique perspective on the South Island’s fur seals, book a guided seal-swimming experience. Underwater, these ungainly mammals can be surprisingly graceful.

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF SOUTHERN CROSSINGS (SARAH FARAG); ANDRÉ LERGIER/UNSPLASH (SEALS IN KAIKŌURA).

By Aimi Mayne

Looking after the world we love At Cunard,® we’re taking action to reduce our impact on the environment by investing in our communities and people to deliver positive change. Our sustainability agenda is built around key elements of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. One area we’re focusing on is partnering with our destinations to create more sustainable tourism. We have the privilege to experience many cultures and environments and we embrace the responsibility to respect and help maintain their cultural, historical, and natural resources.

Queen Elizabeth® in Hubbard Glacier

Treat yourself, on us with up to $800 Onboard Credit per stateroom on these voyages and more.

Alaska on board Queen Elizabeth® 10 nights w Roundtrip Vancouver June 21, 2024 w Q420 Balcony Fares from $1,879* Photo courtesy of Alaska Native Voices

These voyages include an Ensemble exclusive shore experience, a welcome aboard cocktail party, and the knowledge of an experienced Ensemble Host.

*Taxes, Fees, and Port Expenses of $255 per person are additional and subject to change.

10 nights w Roundtrip Vancouver August 10, 2024 w Q425 Balcony Fares from $1,799* *Taxes, Fees, and Port Expenses of $275 per person are additional and subject to change.

*Fares are based on category Balcony DC on a space-available basis at time of booking. Fares for other dates may vary. Fares are per person, non-air, cruise-only, based on double occupancy, and apply to the first two guests in a stateroom. These fares do not apply to singles or third/fourth-berth guests. This offer is capacity controlled and may not be combinable with any other public, group, or past guest discount, including onboard credits. Offer is not transferable and is available to residents of the 50 United States, Canada, Puerto Rico, Mexico, and the District of Columbia who are 21 years of age or older and receive this offer. Fares quoted in U.S. dollars. Please refer to your Travel Advisor for terms, conditions, and definitions that apply to all bookings. Offer may combine with other offers such as group Onboard Credit, limited-time offers, and Military benefits. © 2024 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype and Queen Elizabeth are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

Please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for more details.

WHERE NEXT

—

PORT OF CALL

FAST FACTS

Tokyo

Currency Yen

Language Japanese

Pack your appetite before stepping ashore — there are more Michelin-starred restaurants in the Japanese capital than anywhere else on Earth.

By Brett Walther

Tipping Tips are generally not expected (and may even be considered rude).

Temperature Average daily highs range from 48°F/9°C (January) to 86°F/30°C (August).

N HISTORY TOKYO

1603

The small fishing village of Edo becomes the seat of Japan’s ruling Tokugawa shogunate, and rapidly expands.

1868

T

he late American chef Anthony Bourdain once claimed that if he were forced to eat in just one city for the rest of his life, it would be Tokyo. The dining options are endless in this buzzing megalopolis, where your next mind-blowing bowl of ramen is as likely to be found on a Michelin-rated chef ’s tasting menu as in a hole-in-the-wall izakaya. That’s how things go in this city defined by contrasts: Gleaming skyscrapers tower over ancient temples, and litter-free streets belie the millions who call it home.

Although the traditions of sumo and kabuki continue to captivate, they’re complemented by the marvel of modern-day life in Tokyo, from the mesmerizing dance of pedestrians at Shibuya Crossing to the bold street style on display in Harajuku.

76

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

The Meiji Restoration sees the return of imperial rule.

The emperor’s court shifts from Kyoto to Edo, which is renamed Tokyo (eastern capital).

1964

With a population exceeding 10 million, Tokyo launches the Shinkansen (bullet train) and showcases its postwar renewal as host city for the Summer Olympic Games.

CRUISE SHIP ILLUSTRATION: CLAIRE M c CRACKEN. PHOTO: FIKRI RASYID/UNSPLASH.

J

A AP

WHERE NEXT

—

PORT OF CALL

E V E RY M O N DAY

PHOTOS: LAURIE NOBLE/GETTY IMAGES (CAN’T MISS); CAITO/ADOBE STOCK (THE SOUVENIR); SASAZAWA/ADOBE STOCK (EAT THIS – SHOYU RAMEN); THE REAL TOKYO LIFE/GETTY IMAGES (EAT THIS – PERSIMMONS); CATINSYRUP/ADOBE STOCK (EAT THIS – TENDON); LINH LE/UNSPLASH (EVERY MONDAY); KAREN Z/UNSPLASH (IF YOU’RE UP FOR A DAY TRIP).

Ikebana Lessons

E AT T H I S

Shoyu Ramen

CAN’T MISS

Tsukiji Outer Market John Lennon and Yoko Ono used to come here for coffee (and you can still grab a cup at their beloved Yonemoto Coffee Head Shop), but the big draw at this bustling open-air market remains fresh seafood. On Exo Travel’s Tsukiji Outer Market Walk, you’ll navigate the 400 shops that comprise this foodie’s paradise and hone your sushi skills with instruction from a local chef. Keep an eye out for the Shinto shrine where market vendors pray for continued success — and calm seas.

When ramen debuted in a Tokyo restaurant back in 1910, it was shoyu-style: thin wheat noodles in a soy-based broth, further flavored with soy sauce. It remains the most common type of ramen in a city so enthusiastic about the dish, it’s got its own museum.

Head to the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum for a fascinating glimpse of the role ramen plays in Japanese culture and take in a makeyour-own-ramen workshop.

As one of the leading schools in ikebana — the Japanese art of flower arranging — the Sogetsu Foundation hosts weekly introductory sessions in English. Budding florists get hands-on experience building their own arrangements while uncovering the sixth-century roots of this highly meditative practice.

Persimmons When ripe, the sweet varieties of Japan’s national fruit can be eaten just like an apple. Avoid the ones with the pointed bottoms — they’re more astringent and are usually dried before serving.

IF YOU’RE UP F O R A DAY T R I P

Head to Hakone A 90-minute train ride southwest of the city rewards the adventurous traveler with some of Japan’s most breathtaking scenery.

In Hakone, you can scale the steaming slopes of the volcanic Owakudani valley on a cable car and munch on a black-shelled egg that’s been boiled in the sulfuric hot springs. Cruise Lake Ashi for the best views of the red torii gate of Hakone Shrine and the snowcapped peak of Mount Fuji.

Tendon THE SOUVENIR

Tenugui As practical as they are pretty, these traditional hand-dyed cotton towels can serve as placemats, handkerchiefs or reusable gift wrap, furoshiki-style.

Looking for a quick, satisfying meal on-the-go? You can’t go wrong with tendon — a term derived from tempura (deepfried seafood and veggies) and donburi (bowl). Served over steaming white rice, this is street food with a serious pedigree dating back to the city’s Edo period.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

77

WHERE NEXT

—

PORT OF CALL

High-tech Attractions These awe-inspiring innovations are straight out of a sci-fi flick.

LOCAL LINGO

DAWN Avatar Robot Cafe Forget AI: The robotic servers at this fully accessible eatery are remote-controlled by people — many with disabilities — who are unable to work outside the home.

teamLab Planets Tokyo Interactive art exhibits blur the line between fantasy and reality, taking visitors on a journey through ponds filled with digital koi and a garden of orchids suspended in midair.

Miraikan One of the highlights of Japan’s premier science museum is Geo-Cosmos, a 3D representation of Earth based on live satellite imagery, rendering the weather in eye-popping 10-millionpixel resolution.

Betsubara No room for dessert?

Call upon your second stomach, or betsubara, to make room for sweet treats like kakigori (shaved ice) and sandos (fruit sandwiches).

MARK YOUR CALENDAR

Sumidagawa Fireworks Festival

DRINK LIKE A LOCAL

Japanese Whisky Sake might play a larger cultural role, but it’s Japanese whiskies that are really having a moment.

Although you can take it neat or on the rocks, it’s popularly ordered as a highball (mixed with carbonated water).

78

If you’re visiting Tokyo in the summer, the odds of seeing world-class fireworks are in your favor.

On the last Saturday of July, all eyes are on the night skies of the historic Asakusa district, which burst into color with the Sumidagawa Fireworks Festival. An annual tradition since 1733, the breathtaking pyrotechnic program can last as long as 90 minutes.

IF YOU’RE PRESSED FOR TIME

Visit Ueno Park This sprawling greenspace packs more attractions per square mile than just about anywhere else in the city. Here you’ll find four museums, including the Tokyo National Museum and Metropolitan Art Museum, a number of historic temples and shrines, and Japan’s oldest zoo.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

PHOTOS: FREDERIC REGLAIN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (DAWN AVATAR ROBOT CAFE); MAHDIS MOUSAVI/UNSPLASH (TEAMLAB PLANETS TOKYO); FLYD/UNSPLASH (MIRAIKAN); ERIC’S LIBRARY/ADOBE STOCK (DRINK LIKE A LOCAL); I AM HAPPY TAKING PHOTOGRAPHS/GETTY IMAGES (MARK YOUR CALENDAR); KARIN/ADOBE STOCK (LOCAL LINGO); NAOKITA/ADOBE STOCK (IF YOU’RE PRESSED FOR TIME).

IF YOU WANT YOUR MIND BLOWN

DISCOVER SMALL SHIP CRUISING

Portovenere, Italy

Book now to receive an Ensemble exclusive offer an additional $200 onboard credit* on select sailings!

TO BOOK, CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR TODAY!

*For Full Ensemble Amenity exclusive offer terms and conditions, please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor.*Early Booking Bonus (Offer): For select sailings departing April 2, 2025 – November 10, 2025, Offer applies to new bookings created before August 21, 2024 (“Offer Period”). Offer provides 20% off cruise fares of all stateroom categories. Offer also provides a complimentary Experience More Essentials Package (inclusive of $300 USD Shore Excursion Onboard Credit [OBC], Unlimited WiFi for one device, and a Premium Beverage Package for Two) per stateroom, for guests booked in Veranda and Suite stateroom categories. The Shore Excursion OBC portion of the Experience More Essentials Package will be applied to the booking as an individual component, with the option to spend pre-cruise. The balance of any pre-cruise spend of Shore Excursion OBC, will be reconciled once onboard. Experience More Essentials Packages have no cash value, are not redeemable for cash, and are not transferable. Limit one Offer per stateroom. All other charges, including, but not limited to, cruise taxes, fees, and port expenses, are additional and apply to all guests. Offer is combinable with Back to Back Benefits, onboard booking savings and Azamara Circle Quarterly Savings, National Account Hosted and Amenity Programs, and one other OBC or value add. Unless stated otherwise, offer is not combinable with any other offer or promotion, including, but not limited to, Last Minute Voyages, Closed User Rates, Employee Rates, Interline Rates, Travel Agent Rates, and Net Rates. Offer is not applicable to 3rd and 4th guests in a stateroom. Offer is not applicable to incentive or contracted groups. After the Offer Period, the offer will be removed from the booking if the guest cancels and reinstates the booking, applies a fare change, or changes the ship or sail date of the booking, even if sailing date is within the sailing period highlighted above; certain other changes to the booking may also result in removal of the offer. Offer is subject to availability and change without notice and may be withdrawn at any time. Single occupancy guests paying 200% cruise fare are eligible for the full amount of the offer; single occupancy guests paying less than 200% cruise fare are eligible for a prorated amount of the offer. This offer is applicable to U.S., Canada, and select global markets only. Refer to Azamara.com/bookearly and the Cruise Ticket Contract for additional terms and conditions. ©2024 Azamara. Ships registered in Malta.

WHERE NEXT

—

PORT OF CALL

W H E R E TO S TAY

IN SEASON

Sakura Celebrations From late March to early April, thousands of cherry trees burst into bloom across the city.

The delicate pink cherry blossoms (sakura) draw admirers in droves, from organized viewing parties called hanami to full-scale festivals celebrating this rite of spring.

If the thought of spending a night in a capsule hotel makes you break into a cold sweat, consider the Peninsula, which boasts some of Tokyo’s most spacious guest rooms. Prime location aside — it’s next door to the Imperial Palace — an impressive on-site spa and 24th-floor restaurant with 360-degree views of the city’s skyline make it an attraction in itself.

NIGHTLIFE

Take a Walk Down Memory Lane As the sun sets, the unassuming back alleys of Tokyo — known as yokocho — come alive with tiny bars and eateries that make for an unforgettable night out. Although these alleys can be found throughout the city, Shinjuku’s Omoide Yokocho, or “Memory Lane,” is the most famous; a narrow strip of ramshackle bars and restaurants that exudes old-world charm.

DID YOU KNOW?

Bellustar Tokyo

There’s a Delivery Service for Luggage

Occupying the uppermost floors of a Shinjuku skyscraper, the Bellustar’s 97 suites provide an oasis of calm in a district known for its nightlife. New in 2023, the luxe property retains its opening-day luster, and makes an ideal base for exploring the nearby Samurai Museum, and Shinjuku Gyoen, home to the quintessential traditional Japanese garden.

If you’re switching hotels during your stay, or simply don’t want to lug your bags from the airport, make use of Japan’s popular takuhaibin delivery service. The moderate fee could be worth the convenience, especially if you plan on taking trains, where stowage is at a premium.

80

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

PHOTOS: YU KATO/UNSPLASH (IN SEASON); YTEMHA34/ADOBE STOCK (DID YOU KNOW?); KENN REYNON/UNSPLASH (NIGHTLIFE); THE PENINSULA TOKYO (WHERE TO STAY); JONAS BJERRE POULSEN/BELLUSTAR TOKYO (WHERE TO STAY).

The Peninsula Tokyo

A SPECIAL OFFER TO COME ENJOY ENTERTAINMENT

LIKE YOU’VE NEVER SEEN Mesmerizing. Magical. Made for you.

Sun Princess® and Star Princess® are next generation ships with next generation entertainment.

Step into The Dome, featuring high-flying Cirque Éloize performances that showcase acrobatics, aerial hoops and more. Then mix in a bit of magic with Spellbound by Magic Castle.

We partnered with the famed Hollywood icon to bring you a one-of-a-kind world with mindbending magic, surprise-filled themed rooms and theatrical cocktails served with sleight of hand. So come feel the love — and a new world of entertainment.

Get up to $85 in onboard spending money^

9 days 3 ports

7 days 3 ports

European Explorer

Sun Princess® | 9/14/24 Barcelona to London (Southampton)

Fares from* $

1,099 USD

*Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses of up to $80 USD are additional.

EXCLUSIVE OFFER: Enjoy up to $60 USD onboard spending money per stateroom

Mediterranean with Greece and Italy

Sun Princess® | 7/27/24 Athens to Barcelona

Fares from* $

1,099

USD

*Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses of up to $95 USD are additional.

EXCLUSIVE OFFER: Enjoy up to $50 USD onboard spending money per stateroom

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS. Fares are per guest and apply to minimum lead-in inside categories on a space-available basis at time of booking. Fares are non-air, cruise-only, based on double occupancy and apply to the first two guests in a stateroom. Fares and other values quoted in U.S. currency, unless otherwise indicated. ^Certain restrictions apply, please refer to your travel advisor for full terms, conditions and definitions that apply to Onboard Spending Money. ©2024, Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. Princess,® MedallionClass,® and the Princess logo are trademarks of Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. or its affiliates. All rights reserved. Ships of Bermudan and Britishregistry.

O U T TA K E

En route to the Sacred Valley, Pulitzer Prize-nominated photographer Ben Sklar trained his camera on a group of musicians performing in the ancient Incan capital of Cusco.

“I remember the bright high-altitude sun making contrasting colors and shadows in the morning,” he says. “And I was so happy music was part of the experience.”

PHOTO: BEN SKLAR. TEXT: SYDNEY LONEY.

Cusco, Peru

82

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

Silver Nova A NEW WAY TO SEE THE WORLD

At Silversea, we understand the ocean ecosystem is our home. It’s also how we reach our stunning destinations. However, it’s as fragile as it is vast. With our brand-new Silver Nova, we’re introducing a new way of looking at sailing, at the environment, at the ocean itself. Thanks to her state-of-the-art technologies, including a hydrodynamically optimized hull and propulsion system, Silver Nova is one of the most sustainable cruise ships ever built: a true reflection of our deep commitment to the oceans, the environment, and the communities we find at each of our splendid destinations.

DISCOVER ALASKA THE NOVA WAY Come join us this summer when our remarkable Silver Nova navigates the untamed wilderness of America’s northernmost state during her inaugural season in the region. Be awed by calving glaciers, basking otters, breaching whales, and fascinating indigenous cultures, and take comfort in knowing that you are aboard one of the most environmentally friendly ships ever built. Welcome to the Nova way of traveling.

Sitka, Alaska

Learn more about Silver Nova Place your camera in front of the QR Code and follow the link.

For some smartphones a QR Reader would be needed.

CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR DETAILS ON 2024-2025 ITINERARIES.

Travel Better Thank you for traveling with us in the latest issue of Range by Ensemble. Start planning your next journey — beyond these pages — with your trusted Ensemble travel advisor.